The early gen 3 cars like mine did not have the angled piece for the rad aluminum, it was one piece. I wonder if the change was made to get some air flow in the engine compartment for cooling?
David W
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The early gen 3 cars like mine did not have the angled piece for the rad aluminum, it was one piece. I wonder if the change was made to get some air flow in the engine compartment for cooling?
David W
I’ve bought houses with less thought than I’ve now put into my gauge setup decisions.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1704502074
Tool of the week.
Absolutely couldn’t hammer the pre-installed bushings out of the steering rack and was able to press them out in about 10 seconds with this. Also worked great to pull the steering hub (RT setup) off the roadster.
Otherwise getting the RT assembly and quick release put together, briefly disassembled the system for powder coat.
Getting re-acquainted with the wiring system and trying to plan out as much as possible before install.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1704502074
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1704502074
Ahhh! Wiring Harness, thats my next project! Your powder coated RT turn signal came out really clean, nice job!
Totally missed this in inventory. Looks like I just chopped up 2 right hand spindles. Ahhh. Totally my bad. Have to order a left. Unless I’m missing something but these are both right hand?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1705163754
Yep.
Contacted factory five to order a left spindle and they are sending one out. I expected to pay but they said they would just send one out. As always excellent service that’ll keep customers coming back.
In other news. Anyone have use for a pre-cut right handed irs spindle?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1707076997
First early cruise of the year!
Hi Mike. Not sure how I missed the start of your Coupe build. Just got caught up. Congrats! I will be following along. I enjoyed your Roadster build. Looking forward to your next update.
P.S. I'll join the chorus of admiration on an incredible looking shop you have. Well done! No doubt you'll enjoy the Bendpak lift as well. I've had my Bendpak four-post lift for about eight years. It's a game changer.
Just noticed this about the shift relocation kit. Does that put the shifter further to the rear? From some images of other builds it seems the shifter is rather close to the dash with the coyote /t56.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stangarang
It locates about 4.5inches on center from the dash. I went with a 6" straight shift handle.Quote:
Originally Posted by MSumners
Michael (sorry for not seeing this sooner)
Fabulous! :cool: Midnight blue metallic?Quote:
Originally Posted by MSumners
Lexus indigo ink!Quote:
Originally Posted by rhk118
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1707625476
Ready for test fitting. Planning to put the coyote -t56 in tomorrow to check the trans tunnel crossbars for interference. That way I can modify whatever is needed before powder coat.
The amount of wiring to plan out is becoming a rather big pile and the coyote control pack wiring certainly made it a bit taller. On the flip side I think I have everything I need to dig into wiring planning.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1707695219
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1707695219
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1707695219
Successfully got the engine/trans installed today! Good practice before the frame has powder.
Once I realized there the hoist wouldn’t reach going straight in from the front everything was quite painless doing the side-loader maneuver. Definitely going to be cutting the trans-tunnel cross brace out. There is interference with the shifter and has to be gone to lift the trans tail high enough.
Can’t you unbolt the shifter and rotate it 180 degrees on the T56 to avoid the interference?
On my initial fitting with the seat I feel like the shifter position may be too far forward there for my liking but am certainly going to check again.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cincy123
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cincy123
Mine is the exact combination as yours (Coyote, T56, IRS) and personally I think the shifter is in the perfect position after shifting 180 degrees. Falls right under my hand while sitting in the seat. I don't think it would be as comfortable at the rear location. The shifter plate ends up close to the underside of the cross piece. But my pinion angle is fine. I'd be a little hesitant to cut the cross piece on the Coupe chassis. Unlike the Roadster, those are larger and thicker pieces and appear to be more structural. Sure would need to be replaced with something just as substantial if cut/removed.Quote:
Originally Posted by MSumners
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
Agree with the sentiment here, put your seat back in and check position. That is going to be way too far back unless you have t-Rex arms.
Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
Thanks Paul I appreciate the check -in here and the advice! I’ll check seat position again I must have it too far back! Great if I can just rotate the shifter and avoid re-welding the cross braces.
Ha! Thanks as well for the recs, I’ll recheck position I’m sure I must have my estimated seating position too far back.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kbl7td
Thanks for the reality check. My hopes of joining the NBA are over and moved my seat forward. Now my legs reach the foot box. Easiest switcheroo ever rotating the shifter plate. Didn’t realize it was going to be that easy.
Got the engine -trans pulled back out and the frame is heading to powder coat on Thursday with the panels which have all (most) been fit, drilled, (repeat).., scuffed, cleaned. It’ll be a game -time decision on exact color based on the in/stock options. Basic black will be a backup.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1707868677
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1707868677
Note to self: when you rent a car hauler trailer make sure it has loading ramps so you don’t have to muscle a frame up and in the doors. ( a friend told me that )
.. oh hello ibuprofen
Hey. I took delivery of my coupe in early December. Really enjoying the process. I’ve been trying to find a RT turn signal. Where did you get yours?
I actually had ordered it about 1.5 years ago from Russ when I was planning the build and accumulating parts. I know someone else (I believe) is making them now, maybe someone else has the link?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy312
Mike, I apologize for the confusion on my part. When I mentioned the T-56 with Shift relocation kit. I bought my T-56 from American Powertrain, and while I was at it I bought one of their White Lightning shifters that rotated it from the original position. Not technicaly a relocation kit.
Michael
Hi Randy312. There is a vendor who announced on the forum he is continuing Russ' turn signal: www.mountain-metalworks.com, tj@mountain-metalworks.com. His handle on the forum is "mountain-metalworks".Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy312
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1710378194
Frame and panels/parts back from powder coat, turned out great and not a bad price at all. Very happy with it all. Excited to get rolling soon on actual assembly
Making some progress since getting the frame back, nothing groundbreaking. Able to get the IFS, IRS and wilwoods installed and starting on the fuel lines.
One thing I noticed compared to the roadster build was that the center section was a REALLY tight fit. like really tight, when I finally got it in place it was completely supported on its own just wedged between the mounts. Not sure how it would ever come out if it had to. Other than that only a couple minor delays looking for hardware. Seems the inventory list is a bit more difficult to negotiate now as there isn't detail to the pack listing for some of the hardware. I did have some nuts labeled 'mechanical locknuts' that are supposed to be used for the front upper A arm mounting but were not locknuts at all and the specified grade 8 1/2 20 bolts were too short. Somewhat to my surprise Ace had the exact grade 8 flanged bolt a 1/2 inch longer and the flanged grade 8 mech locknuts. Otherwise all quite a smooth install. Seems much less manipulation of the upper and lower A arm mounting brackets than I recall doing with the roadster, everything slid in to place quite well.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1710719694
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1710719694
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1710719694
Nothing too groundbreaking starting laying out the fuel system and making the flex and hard lines.
Picking up a new truck at the Ford dealer and got a look at the new gen 4 coyote. Might have to see if that cover would fit the gen 3
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1712408147
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1712408147
Is this regulator too low for othe gen 3 coyote, wondering if there may be interference?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1712494995
Looking at mine just now, yes I should clear. By an inch or so. It may/may not clear when you tip the engine in though. Something to watch for. Curious why you have it that low. FWIW, I have mine in the same spot, but the adjuster on the regulator is roughly the same height as the footbox top. Makes things easy to get to and the fuel line over to the engine is a relatively straight.Quote:
Originally Posted by MSumners
Thanks for looking , I’ll be raising it up. Just about to terminate the flex lines on that end and higher position will actually make that easier too!
Thanks again
Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
No work for a bit on the coupe as I've been finishing up a different project and thought I'd post a before and nearly completed after picture. When I was just old enough to be interested in cars this was actually one of my dream cars. Just always loved it. Recent H1 Alphas go for crazy money so decided to take a different approach. This one started as a military humvee, late in the humvee era a lot of the earlier versions underwent a revision with new drivetrains and some updates. Previously knew more about this whole process but can't recall all of it currently. This was one of the updated old versions. Was able to pick it up with minimal miles on the drivetrain. It's a 6.5 diesel non turbo. Started life as a 3 speed as delivered.
My updates included: New 4l80 4 speed transmission with park and overdrive, turned it from a 2 door to 4 door. It has full convertible doors, uppers with windows, black soft top. New shoes. Checked the usual things that go with a hummer especially the spindle nuts.
This was my first attempt at a "real" paint job. I created a makeshift paint booth in the barn and completely stripped everything down, sanded for approximately 128 years, then 2 coats of primer, 3 base coat and 2-3 clearcoat. Its no where near the Ken Pike quality of my roadster but from 20 feet looks good enough and scratches won't bother me, which was the goal. The interior and bed I did in raptor POL black and turned out great, that stuff really is awesome. Other things included new bucket seats and belts, new soft front and rear leveling springs, all new gauges ( which actually all worked on the first wiring!), all new seals and rubber everywhere, sound insulation, all new LED all around. Only things to finish are bolting in the seats / sliders and chasing down a taill-light I must have mis wired. Overall really happy with how everything turned out.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1718068106
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1718068106
Wow that looks awesome!
My grandparents lived across the street from the AM General plant in Mishawaka, IN where those were made. Spent a good chunk of my childhood at that house (free childcare) playing in the yard. I could see the new ones coming off the line and being test driven on the test track. H1's but endless Humvees. Always wanted one