Nice progress Mark! Be sure to keep a running list of everything that still has to be torqued down tight. After I while it gets hard to remember what is done and what is not. You are wise to mark torqued bolts with the red marker paint. That really helps. Great job on the photos too!
Here are my photos of this differential vent plug. It doesn't seat all the way down to the flange. I'm not sure if I should just leave it like that and use loctite or tap it in further with a hammer. It doesn't seem very sturdy and I'm concerned that hammering it will damage it, on the other hand it looks like if I leave it as is it will simply fall out.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...1&d=1508131699
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...2&d=1508131719
My front coil springs arrived so I installed them including the zip tie on the hats. I'm not sure how that helps and when I should remove the zips ties. Had to grind down one of the spacers a bit. My table grinder has turned into a very useful purchase. I also completed the front sway bar attachment.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...6&d=1508133383
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...5&d=1508133371
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...4&d=1508133358
I haven't torqued any of it. I am a little confused about the lubrication of the sway bar. It is not obvious to me where to lube other than under the bushings. In the instructions it says to grease the ID on link eyes:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...7&d=1508133404
Looking good. Nice progress!
My differential vent seated further in than that. I used a rubber mallet to persuade it into position. It did not damage the piece at all.
You mention not being sure when to remove the zip ties. You just leave them on there permanently.
For your other question, lube the rubber bushings where the sway bar attaches to the chassis. Don't worry about the Heim joints with that lube. What you have is different than what is shown in those instructions.
I purchased the Russ Thompson trunk box and throttle pedal. I would like to do a modification similar to 2bking's. I sent him a PM and he has been great about giving me instruction. However, mine is going to be far from his. I'm kind of making it up as I go. Here are the photos so far...
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...0&d=1509071830
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...1&d=1509071870
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...2&d=1509071911
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...3&d=1509071951
This photo shows a battery box I purchased on Amazon for $34. I will modify it and have my battery on its side somehow...
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...4&d=1509071994
Glad to see you decided to do the "battery on it side" mod and your progress looks good. Obviously you frame and available space is different for the 2015 IRS but I think when you get it finished and by leading the way doing it, others will do it also. You will thank yourself every time you have to mess with the battery. Keep the pictures coming.
That threaded hole is for a temperature sensor, used for the differential cooler kit (see page 28, step 56, of the instructions for the kit). I had thoughts of adding the cooler, but decided it would just be for the sake of doing it - rather than adding something that was needed. So, I'm saving that mad money for other upgrades.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Eaton
Thanks King, your input means a lot to meQuote:
Originally Posted by 2bking
Oh right! Thanks Mach'er. I think I'll pass on the differential cooler kit as well
Now that I know my rear spindles fit properly I decided to remove the hubs and knock out those Mustang studs and put in the Cobra studs. Actually, truth be told I overlooked that step when I first installed the spindles but thats ok because it goes with my new build modus operandi of "do it wrong the first time but keep going back and redoing it!"
I thought about not removing the hubs and just banging away at those studs. I mean, it couldn't be any more traumatic to the rear end than say sliding sideways into a curb at 40mph?? Also, this gives me a chance to really observe the relationship of the CV axle to the spindle and more importantly what a ABS sensor is looking at (another discussion).
My 11yo joined me in the shop but he quickly tired of my antics and decided crushing rocks in the bench vise was much more fun.
I struggled a bit at first because I had previously torqued the bolts with red locktite and with the CV axle in place there wasn't room for a 1/2" socket, I had to use my 3/8" socket with less leverage. After wrestling around with it for a while I realized that I own a 3/8" right angle pneumatic driver! Awesome!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...5&d=1509324312
Like everybody talks about in the threads knocking out the old studs with a hammer is pretty easy but putting in the new ones is challenging. I had thought this through quit a bit so instead of trying to bang in the new studs I went straight to my high impact wrench(700 ft/lbs or torque) as seen the the photos and pulled them in using the lug nut and washers shown. I don't remember what I paid for that high impact wrench but I absolutely love it, it is so useful. It pulled each stud in in about 15 seconds each.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...6&d=1509324344
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...7&d=1509324465
The thing that gets me is that in the manual it talks about torquing the wheel studs to 98 ft/lb, however, I'm not sure that matters after I just finished using 700 ft/lbs to pull them in... I was concerned that I might fracture the studs pulling them in that way so I was careful to stop as soon as they seated. No problems.
Now, ABS sensors. I am really interested in ABS. Clueless how to do it, but reading up on it. What I do know is that the sensors need to sense a spline type of ring. My front hubs have the ring but I'm not sure how it works in the rear. Here are photos.
This is the PS, I don't see anything.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...9&d=1509324522
This is DS, I see something for the sensor.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...8&d=1509324494
Whatever. I am going to start a separate thread about ABS to try to get more input from forum members.
I'll defer to the experts, but when I was installing my FFMetal battery box, the install directions stressed not putting the box in front of the two tank mounting bars. This is to ensure that the tank can move forward in a rear end collision. With the modifications you are making, your tank won't be able to move if you get hit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Eaton
The 2015+ IRS uses wheel bearings with a magnetic ABS pulse generator. A more modern take on the traditional tone rings used by various OEM's. Discussed in this post on the other forum: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/4823601-post18.html. Others have reported the output of the sensor can be used with traditional ABS controllers. But I've not tried to install ABS on any of my builds, so I can't offer any guidance. But thought I would at least give you and idea how it works and save more looking. :oQuote:
Originally Posted by Mark Eaton
Thanks for the input and the link, Paul. So I wouldn't have to worry about rear tone rings because I have fancy magnetic pulse generating wheel bearings. That's great!
Mark
Thanks for the advice Papa. I'll definitely look into this. I'm pretty sure I will have the battery in similar position as the FFMetal box except on its side. I will post more photos as I go which should make it more clear.Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa
I did this mod and was concerned about something kin to collision structure and safety but couldn't find any data. If FFR did any rear end collision testing, they haven't let the results be known. Without any testing, it's all speculation about different types of failure because of the variables such as the amount of gas in the tank, bumper heights, impact direction, rear axle configuration, and speed. While this is a subject that can spark a lot of discussion, I don't think it is dangerous modification. If I were a vendor building after market parts and could be held liable for consequences from using said parts, I would be cautioning the builders on installing my parts in ways other than what I intended such as, "not putting the box in front of the two tank mounting bars".Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa
In the interest of making sure what we modify doesn't cause a safety concern, calling attention to the possible down side of the mod is good and should be appreciated. I certainly take no offense to your comment.
Mark,Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Eaton
I hope you didn't take offence to my comment. It was the added square tubing from the rear to the tank hanger bars that I was trying to point out. After looking at it again, it does look like things should still be able to move forward in a collision. I've been following your build and look forward to seeing your finished product.
Dave
Dave,
No worries and no offense taken! Of course, I appreciate any heads up on what might make the vehicle at risk. I also appreciate King's input. Its hard to know without specific rear end collision testing what the right answer is. However , keeping things simple I feel like the more welded steel frame behind me is safer regardless of the location of the battery or the fuel tank.
Mark
So I got the battery box installed and the trunk modified. I haven't altered the panels yet. I secured the box with 5/16" Rivnuts on its forward side and a single 10-32 rivnut on the DS, also I welded a support underneath it and threaded some bolts into that. So it is not welded in place and can be removed if needed. I am happy with the location. I feel comfortable that I haven't compromised the integrity of the chassis. Here are some photos.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...9&d=1509681238
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...8&d=1509681238
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...7&d=1509681238
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...6&d=1509681238
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...5&d=1509681238
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...4&d=1509681238
I will say that putting in those 5/16" rivnuts was a real pain in the neck. My Rivnut tool wouldn't do it. I looked at youtube and came up with an easy method using a bolt and two nuts and washers. I searched for Rivnut instal tools and there are some pneumatic ones which are several hundred dollars. It looks like even to top notch hand Rivnut tools are around $120. Not ready to pull the trigger on that yet.
Mark-
Here's what I picked up for inserting rivnuts, and I have been very happy with it:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
There are other similar ones as well. However, this one has worked well for me, and perhaps brings it in a price point that is a bit easier.
Keep up the good work. I like your trunk mod, and I think your battery box will be good. I also appreciated the guys that pointed out their concerns! I think it only adds value when folks share concerns when they think our safety is at risk.
I look forward to watching the rest of your progress; it's looking great!
Regards,
Steve
These things work awesome for rivnuts
https://www.mcmaster.com/#rivet-tools/=1a3k19k
What a fantastic experience for your boys. Have any of you considered having a fuel cell built for the space? They aren’t that expensive in the scheme of this build. There is very little metal behind the rear axle and the rods that hold the quick jacks look like spears aimed at the gas tank. If there is a thread on this already please redirect me.
Fuel cell, you mean a battery which turns the wheels via electric motors? Something an electric powered hybrid car like a Prius would have? It seems to me that somebody did something like that... Not sure where you would see it. Maybe try YouTube. I'm not even remotely interested.
This past week my Forte Dart 347 Stroker showed up! I couldn't be happier.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...6&d=1509939103
She's fuel injected with the Holley 550-510K Sniper system, Tremec TKO 600 trans with Quick Time bell housing, Hydraulic clutch.
Dyno tested 377 HP at 6250 RPM and 389 ft/lb torque at 4200 RPM!
So, I spent 6 hours(including a trip to hardware store) making this...
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...7&d=1509939152
Look familiar? It is my Edwardb style engine stand. Had to modify it to this...
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...8&d=1509939222
I thought about getting one of those $60 steel stands from china off the internet but this was much more appealing to me. I bought a 2x12" Oregon Douglas Fir board from Home Depot for $14.50 and used Lag screw and bolts I had in my extras drawer to make it. Its rock solid.
I finally finished and realized this...
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...9&d=1509939267
Yep, the hoist won't slide under. I said a few choice words under my breath, my 11yo said "Dad, Lets just tilt it ourselves". I was blank for a while, kicking myself for not putting the crate on blocks. Then I thought of Archimedes and a light bulb went off. Levers!!!!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...0&d=1509939343
It worked but took me over an hour...
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...1&d=1509939381
If any new time builders are looking at this heed my advice and have them put your crate on blocks so that you can easily slide your hoist underneath to remove the engine.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...2&d=1509939412
Here she is on the new stand
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...4&d=1509939505
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...3&d=1509939466
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...5&d=1509942300
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...6&d=1509942332
Looks a bit teetery but feels very solid. However, I must admit I am thinking about picking up some 2" angle iron and making a steel stand because I think I can make something easier to maneuver around. Plus I really enjoy welding... Of course, I'll post photos when I do that.
Mark,Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Eaton
He's referring to a bladdered tank, AKA fuel cell:
https://fuelsafe.com/sm122a-aff/
Jeff
Cannot tell from the pics for sure, the bolts you are lifting from, exhaust stud holes, be sure the pull the chain link up close to the head. You do not want to lift with the bolt at length. I hope that makes some kind of sense and you may be doing it right. I just do not want to hear about a broken head nightmare.
Beautiful engine!
Thanks for the input Railroad,
I have bolts in the header bolt holes, they are 3/8" 8.8 bolts. Looked it up on YouTube. I screwed the bolts in all the way but they may be a little long. I certainly don't want a broken head nightmare!
Mark
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner
Thanks Jeff,
I totally missed that. So, its like a $2700 gas tank which is safer than the standard gas tank?
Mark
Sorry for the confusion. In Indiana, a fuel cell is a gas tank for race cars. Essentially a safer fuel tank. 20 gallon fuel cells are a couple hundred dollars but square and not conducive to our application. I have no idea how they can ask $2700 for that. My dad had one custom built for his boat that was stainless steel, T shaped, 30 gallons and cost less than $600. That is what I was thinking. I like your trunk drop modification. I am planning on doing the same.
Sbhunter, I appreciate your input, I am all about safety and this has been on my mind since Kleiner clarified it. I had never heard of these prior.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sbhunter
A fuel cell style gas tank is mandatory for certain racing sanctioning organizations. They have several purposes, including helping to reduce/prevent fuel spilling onto the track. This is a pretty good explanation with more details: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/do...ocID=TECH00128.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Eaton
Not going to debate that they're safer than the traditional Mustang tank that thousands have used for these builds. But for street driving and occasional track use where they're not required, probably overkill. Not commonly used on non-competition versions of these builds. Very expensive, higher maintenance and recurring costs, and will require mods to your rear chassis/trunk area including reducing trunk space. Also not compatible with the LeMans style external fuel cap.
I took a couple days off and my brother came to town to help with the build. We assembled the engine,tranny, headers in prep for initial install. I went ahead and put on the PS cat and side pipes because I couldn't help myself. Here is my brother with the assembly thus far...
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...5&d=1511161151
We hoisted the engine off my steel cradle and put on the engine mounts. The mounts are not flush at any of the four securing sites. I torqued them all to 100 ft/lb.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...8&d=1511161292
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...7&d=1511161250
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...6&d=1511161202
It looks like I need to go to work on the block with my angle grinder, or bend the mounts to fit better. I resisted the urge. Any thoughts?
I wasn't going to let the catywhompous engine mounts stop me from my initial engine install, so we forged ahead. I shot a time-lapse photo series not realizing I can't save individual photos from it. Therefore, I don't have all the key photos of it going in.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...1&d=1511162518
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...0&d=1511162486
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...9&d=1511162432
It didn't just "drop" on in there in a few minutes like during the build school. We must have wrestled with it for 2 or 3 hours. I'm not sure I learned anything except maybe to use large screwdrivers as levers to compress the bushings on the engine mounts to get them to fall down into their slots.
Looking good. I am enjoying watching the progress.
Have you test fit the pipes with the cats since the engine has been in the car? This is the first time I have seen someone use cats and am wondering how they fit.
Mark
Your build is moving forward at a good pace. Looks like you did fabricate the steel engine stand. Keep up with the updates. Im enjoying watching your build.
With time and money constraints, my build is going slower than expected. However, I am purchasing some minor parts that I wanted ( not needed)
Mark,
Not sure what you've got going on there but you can't leave the engine mounts that way. Whatever is amiss probably explains why you had so much difficulty getting it into place. Maybe some additional photos would help us see what is causing the issues with the poor fit.
Although it doesn't matter at this time just as an FYI you have the driver's side pipe on the passenger side in your mock up photo.
Keep us updated and good luck moving forward!
Jeff
Agree 100% with Jeff you can't leave the engine mounts that way. Assuming you have the right mounts (most likely) my guess is you have interference from the DART SHP block you mention in the first post. The DART blocks have an additional web around the engine mount bolts that aren't on a stock block. Take a closer look and you'll probably see what I'm talking about. Use a die grinder or whatever and notch the motor mount in that location. It doesn't take much and they should sit flat. Tweak the mounts, not the DART block. :eek:
Jeff,Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner
Thanks for the input. So glad I posted those photos. I will pull the engine out and notch the mounts as per Paul's rec. It will be nice to have the engine drop in easier!
Mark
Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
Paul,
Ditto what I said to Jeff, I really appreciate you guys following my thread and keeping me out of trouble. I'll post photos before I "notch" anything. I may send you a PM.
Mark