Frank's 818R build

Whew, last few weeks have been pretty busy! Lots of little work whenever I can get the time. I started to work on de-powering the steering last night:

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5552/...c73a9b0b_c.jpg
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5548/...c36c4445_c.jpg


Went pretty quick so far. I'm just going to weld the threaded ends once I get to that point, I think. And I will be removing that slop (to the best of my ability), I suppose having someone TIG it would be the best way. I don't have any welder of my own at this time.

More steering work! I tried drilling into that valve-body-thing...whew, that stuff is hard! Grabbed an angle grinder and knicked a piece of it off, then got a friend at work to tig it up for me. It certainly doesn't move now!

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2915/...6c9b3e50_c.jpg
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3858/...bf95187a_c.jpg
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3878/...b2e7e3f6_c.jpg

Any reason why you decided to keep the triple-cork-layer valve piece? I found out the shaft was staying in place very solid without it so I ditched it. But I also have seen that there are many little differences in the racks depending on the year-model we got, so maybe for you it was better to keep it?

Ok I found the answer after you posted on De-Powering the rack thread. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Frank818

Any reason why you decided to keep the triple-cork-layer valve piece? I found out the shaft was staying in place very solid without it so I ditched it. But I also have seen that there are many little differences in the racks depending on the year-model we got, so maybe for you it was better to keep it?

Ok I found the answer after you posted on De-Powering the rack thread. :)

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Frank,

Yup, I posted it there. I think it'll help support the shaft inside of the steel housing. I'm not sure about that, of course. But, it was easy enough to keep. How does yours fit?

Woohoo! Joe Scott and I confirmed my pick up date. How did you guys last the final 2 weeks?!? I'm already so excited/anxious!

I had stomach issues in the last week to 2 weeks. Which lasted until I crossed the Canadian border on my way back. Then I shouted at the Canadian border and Transport Canada cuz I succeeded through my first huge step and I was so happy. loll Good thing none of them heard me, it wasn't pretty. lolll

I test fitted the shaft with and without that valve and didn't see any difference. The thing is, it was just by hand, not on the car and driving it, so I don't know if under load (steering load that is, not engine) it will be ok. Others have trashed that valve too so that's why I decided to do it as well. On the long rod though, some have remove everything but the end cap. Mine looked a little different than most of the pix I've seen here, still I tried to remove all but there was a bigger piece I had to keep on one end of the rod, otherwise the rod was moving up and down and that was bad.

Back to the shaft, mine is maintained solidly in place by the bottom bearing and the very bottom tip of the shaft, the portion that goes in the hole inside the rack itself and maintained a little by the upper rubber (but that's just a rubber). I hope I am not wrong, I still have the valve, so if I have problems, a couple of days work to remove the rack and put back the valve would be ok, though not very funny.

I don't think the valve is harming anything anyway and it's not like you are adding 100kg to the car for so little benefits, so I say you did good.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Frank818

I had stomach issues in the last week to 2 weeks. Which lasted until I crossed the Canadian border on my way back. Then I shouted at the Canadian border and Transport Canada cuz I succeeded through my first huge step and I was so happy. loll Good thing none of them heard me, it wasn't pretty. lolll
haha! They would have been so confused. That's great

I test fitted the shaft with and without that valve and didn't see any difference. The thing is, it was just by hand, not on the car and driving it, so I don't know if under load (steering load that is, not engine) it will be ok. Others have trashed that valve too so that's why I decided to do it as well. On the long rod though, some have remove everything but the end cap. Mine looked a little different than most of the pix I've seen here, still I tried to remove all but there was a bigger piece I had to keep on one end of the rod, otherwise the rod was moving up and down and that was bad.
I did the same and didn't notice a difference. But, like you said, it's just a little weight and I'm not too worried about it. It will probably be fine either way.
Which rod are you talking about? The one with splines for the steering joint before the column?

Back to the shaft, mine is maintained solidly in place by the bottom bearing and the very bottom tip of the shaft, the portion that goes in the hole inside the rack itself and maintained a little by the upper rubber (but that's just a rubber). I hope I am not wrong, I still have the valve, so if I have problems, a couple of days work to remove the rack and put back the valve would be ok, though not very funny.
It wouldn't be all too much work. What year is your rack from? I think ours looked very similar, unlike all those "newer rack" guys (mine is from an 02)

I don't think the valve is harming anything anyway and it's not like you are adding 100kg to the car for so little benefits, so I say you did good.

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Replies in red!

Yes, the rod with splines, that beautiful smooth mirror-finish rod.

I have a 03 rack from an auto NA 2.5TS. 02 and 03 are supposed to be identical as far as I have read, but if I recall some 02 pix I have seen here, mine wasn't 100% identical on the rod stuff. But for the small shaft with valve, it looks exactly the same.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Frank818

Yes, the rod with splines, that beautiful smooth mirror-finish rod.

I have a 03 rack from an auto NA 2.5TS. 02 and 03 are supposed to be identical as far as I have read, but if I recall some 02 pix I have seen here, mine wasn't 100% identical on the rod stuff. But for the small shaft with valve, it looks exactly the same.

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LOL mirror-finish. Not in NY!

Ah, gotcha. similar to mine for sure.



My big issue now is replacing the tie-rod boot. How the hell do you get that thing off without cutting it?? Mine is so unbelievably rusted.

Carnage! Liberated my steering rack of that power steering piston/seal/thing. Also cleaned it up a bit. Definitely a lot of little stuff to button up (and a trans to rebuild....oh man) in the next two weeks.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3914/...1dc73893_c.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Pearldrummer7

How the hell do you get that thing off without cutting it?? Mine is so unbelievably rusted.

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The boot is rusted? Do you have a pic of that?
Normally you cut the rings that tie it in place and it slides off the tie-rod. I can't recall I got mines of cuz I changed the boots and tie-rods. So I didn't mind much of breaking them apart.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Pearldrummer7

Carnage! Liberated my steering rack of that power steering piston/seal/thing. Also cleaned it up a bit. Definitely a lot of little stuff to button up (and a trans to rebuild....oh man) in the next two weeks.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3914/...1dc73893_c.jpg

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Yeah that looks pretty much like mine. Keep that c clip on the rod, you need it to prevent the piston from going to far away. You do have a piston that was lying just besides that big ring you cut off?

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Originally Posted by Frank818

The boot is rusted? Do you have a pic of that?
Normally you cut the rings that tie it in place and it slides off the tie-rod. I can't recall I got mines of cuz I changed the boots and tie-rods. So I didn't mind much of breaking them apart.

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The tie-rod is rusted at the threads. Boot is torn in half so I'll need a new one. I'll add a pic tonight. What tie rods did you go to?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Frank818

Yeah that looks pretty much like mine. Keep that c clip on the rod, you need it to prevent the piston from going to far away. You do have a piston that was lying just besides that big ring you cut off?

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I'm not removing the c-clip from the rod. I am glad you're a few weeks ahead of me to work out these problems, Frank. I have a piston with a beveled section and a little black gasket on it. It slid around on the shaft pretty freely. I keep that, right?



Edit:
I reassembled part of the rack. Kept the little piston and the c-clip. It stops nicely at the end of the rack threads, and I think it's going to work nicely now. Here's the pic of the tie-rod that I can't get loose. I can't think of another way to get a new boot on there without breaking this thread loose:

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3847/...e71967e8_z.jpg

I got the CTR tie-rods, powder coated black already (not the tie-rod end though). Just OEM-like replacement.

Yes that piston moves freely on one end, hits the end cap and C-clip. Without it, the rack rod will wobble on that end and that's very bad. I put a lot of grease to make it slide better and more freely, but most of the grease is pushed on the sides cuz the piston fits like a piston ring in a cylinder, it's very tight.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Frank818

I got the CTR tie-rods, powder coated black already (not the tie-rod end though). Just OEM-like replacement.

Yes that piston moves freely on one end, hits the end cap and C-clip. Without it, the rack rod will wobble on that end and that's very bad. I put a lot of grease to make it slide better and more freely, but most of the grease is pushed on the sides cuz the piston fits like a piston ring in a cylinder, it's very tight.

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Ah, maybe I'll just get some replacement ones then. Might be worth it at this point.


Yup. I noticed that. With the piston in and end caps it moves pretty nicely and stops when it should. I just loaded it up with regular old automotive grease. Is that what you did too? I hope it has enough lube!

Edit: Ah, hell. They're only ~$35 a pop for replacements. I think that's what I'll do then. Thanks for the advice, Frank! A lifesaver per usual

I use sort of automotive grease, yeah, lithium based that work on motorcycles, cars, etc. Anything mechanical like rods, bearings, gears...

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...erproof-grease

$35 is about the price, I can't recall if that is with or without the tie-rod end (with ball joint), I think it's without... If I remember, it cost me about $CAD200, but I replaced everything, the boots (20 each or so), tie-rods, tie-rod ends, ball joints, crush washers.

GOT IT!

Before:
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5153/...20c95dd2_c.jpg

After electrolysis:
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3837/...cf59eaab_c.jpg


Frank: 1, Rust: ~400
I'll take any win I can get over rust at this point.
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2924/...95a2ded2_c.jpg


Also found an unused pegboard in our basement. Awesome!
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2925/...cf99f4b7_c.jpg

That rust removal certainly did work as hell! lolll You could save yourself some bucks by simply cleaning up the rods and painting/coating them. Don't forgot to remove the grease and put on some new.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Frank818

That rust removal certainly did work as hell! lolll You could save yourself some bucks by simply cleaning up the rods and painting/coating them. Don't forgot to remove the grease and put on some new.

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Some new what? haha

Here it is at FFR! Can't wait to grab it this Saturday!
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2931/...28c1c955_c.jpg


And here's what I worked on this weekend, along with another 5MT (man I'm getting good at splitting them apart), steering, and some random parts preparation.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5505/...ebec7fd2_c.jpg

I'm the one under the car, actually doing work. Just kidding. We did a lot on both bugeyes this weekend, and everyone was a big help. Good way to distract myself to help time pass till Saturday....it's like waiting for Christmas as a little kid!

Have a nice trip!

[QUOTE=Pearldrummer7;159889]Here it is at FFR! Can't wait to grab it this Saturday!
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2931/...28c1c955_c.jpg


Ha! I was down at FFR this week working on a new video (I'm the guy who made FFR's current promo DVD), and we filmed with your chassis a little bit. It looks great. You must be jumping out of your skin with excitement. I know I will be when I pick up mine!

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Originally Posted by projectrally

and we filmed with your chassis a little bit.

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Well there you go Frank, you're now even most famous than you were! :)

[QUOTE=projectrally;160354]

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Pearldrummer7

Here it is at FFR! Can't wait to grab it this Saturday!
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2931/...28c1c955_c.jpg


Ha! I was down at FFR this week working on a new video (I'm the guy who made FFR's current promo DVD), and we filmed with your chassis a little bit. It looks great. You must be jumping out of your skin with excitement. I know I will be when I pick up mine!

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Frank818

Well there you go Frank, you're now even most famous than you were! :)

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*blushes* I'm so flattered! That's awesome! Can't wait to see what you end up making for a video.

I am VERY excited still. The haul was long. Took 4.5 hours from my parents' house to Wareham, then ~7 to my new house from Wareham. Lots of stops to check on and fix up the kit. But WOW, what a facility. It's been said before, but that place is absolutely breathtaking. Factory Five is an incredible facility; nearly clean enough to eat off of the floor. Met Dave, the president, who is an awesome guy. FFR even gave us free shirts (just ask when you pick your kits up!) Toured the place, then loaded up!

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5501/...84b6fe4e_c.jpg
The diesel barely noticed the car's weight on the back. Did 75+ mph most of the way home.


Got it back, did some fiberglass organization, had a bunch of people over to see the kit, and promptly passed out on my couch- like the great host I am.


Yesterday, did the front firewall and hung up my inventory sheets in an attempt to start taking inventory. Man, there's a lot to do. More pics to come! I've been taking time-lapse photos with the GoPro. This week's goal- front suspension and inventory.

Congrats, my kit should be ready for pick up in 4 weeks.
Get yourself some EvapoRust works great, just finished my front and rear uprights, after a overnight soak and pressure wash they looked new.

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Originally Posted by Mitch Wright

Congrats, my kit should be ready for pick up in 4 weeks.
Get yourself some EvapoRust works great, just finished my front and rear uprights, after a overnight soak and pressure wash they looked new.

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I actually have parts in the electrolysis bucket de rusting right now. Seems to be working for me so far. Thanks!! Get ready, pick up is a big day! Are you far?

Are you building this R with or without a full windshield?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by projectrally

Are you building this R with or without a full windshield?

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I will run the street windshield on the street and the R windscreen on tracks. At least, that's the plan.

So, no power at home. Doing work by day light and flashlights.

Anyone ever have an issue with pedal fitment? Mine are a good 3/16's off. The pedals either line up with column on top or the supplied OEM pedal brace. Never both. Clutch pedal hits firewall too. Something is way out of whack.

You mean the pedals are off so you don't feel comfortable when your feet are on them?

If I recall, my clutch can hit the firewall, but I doubt it needs to go that far to allow shifting (then I can put a stopper or something), so for now I am not worried.

I am in Bowling Green KY, still debating weather I will make the trip to pick it up or have it delivered, I need to decide pretty quick.. We are in getting ready to open a new Motorsports Park (NCM Motorsports Park) in September so time is at a premium. I have the car ordered for over a year so I am excited and ready.
My R will be track only.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mitch Wright

I am in Bowling Green KY, still debating weather I will make the trip to pick it up or have it delivered, I need to decide pretty quick.. We are in getting ready to open a new Motorsports Park (NCM Motorsports Park) in September so time is at a premium. I have the car ordered for over a year so I am excited and ready.
My R will be track only.

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Hi Mitch,
I suggest you pick it up yourself.
Not only do you get to see the place. More importantly, you get to meet the people.
I have a trailer in Cincinnati you are welcome to barrow.

My son and I are signed up to do a track day with ten-tenths on 0ctober 10-12
http://www.1010thsmotorsports.com/ncm-reg_1.html


Attachment 31149

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Frank818

You mean the pedals are off so you don't feel comfortable when your feet are on them?

If I recall, my clutch can hit the firewall, but I doubt it needs to go that far to allow shifting (then I can put a stopper or something), so for now I am not worried.

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The pedal mount itself wasn't lining up. I had to do some...modifying. Pics of what I did tonight, nothing fancy.

Clutch does hit the firewall but just barely, but it shouldn't be an issue, like you said.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mitch Wright

I am in Bowling Green KY, still debating weather I will make the trip to pick it up or have it delivered, I need to decide pretty quick.. We are in getting ready to open a new Motorsports Park (NCM Motorsports Park) in September so time is at a premium. I have the car ordered for over a year so I am excited and ready.
My R will be track only.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy

Hi Mitch,
I suggest you pick it up yourself.
Not only do you get to see the place. More importantly, you get to meet the people.
I have a trailer in Cincinnati you are welcome to barrow.

My son and I are signed up to do a track day with ten-tenths on 0ctober 10-12
http://www.1010thsmotorsports.com/ncm-reg_1.html


Attachment 31149

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Mitch, my vote is also on pick up. It's an amazing experience. Frank will tell you the same thing; totally worth the drive. Just make sure to bring lots of ways to secure things if you use an open trailer and open truck bed. The fiberglass is super fragile and definitely can't hold up to much stress from wind.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy

I suggest you pick it up yourself.
Not only do you get to see the place. More importantly, you get to meet the people.

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This is worth money. Even if you end up paying the pick-up trip a little more than Stewart delivering to you, I very very highly recommend picking it up and seeing the place/people.

I also vote for the self pick-up. They're always happy to give a tour and show you their other cars. Everyone there is very approachable and friendly. It's an amazing facility filled with great people, and it'll make your building experience more enjoyable if it starts there.

Big update! a week or so into ownership, and here's where we are! (along with a tip and a question)

Floor is installed; when you're putting in any aluminum, remember- the stencil (dots of ink) go on the non-prime side. i.e. the side with worse quality control. Take that into consideration when you can see some of the aluminum paneling (such as the floor). I asked FFR and the little tab goes towards the front of the car to cover two holes they use to move the frame around during production. Also, I clamped the floor to the frame and traced the edges. Then I measured the distance to the rear of the car in a few easily-perpendicular places, removed the paneling and flipped it, then clamped it once it was re-measured. Made for easy work (though I'm sure many of you figured out this or better solutions already!) :

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2901/...474d5083_c.jpg

Pedals, steering column, and steering rack are all mounted up. Just waiting for a rack boot from Subaru to get here (shipping got delayed...supposed to be here before the weekend). Pic is clearly pre-steering install.

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2937/...a4049a22_c.jpg

Prepping the fuel pump(Walbro 255) on the FFR supplied bracketry.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3865/...4d6bae99_c.jpg




Here comes the question. Did anyone else have a tough time installing the fuel pump assembly into the tank? It felt like a very tight fit. I finally moved it around from the "correct" position in the manual to one about 90* clockwise(looking down) and it ended up fitting much nicer. Here's what it looks like through the fuel vapor hole in the tank (sorry for bad quality). Is this okay?? It's (fairly lightly) resting the bottom part of the little filter on the base of the fuel tank. The pump itself is not hitting.
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2910/...4ff63aa5_c.jpg

Frank
The plastic grid on the bottom of the filter sock is designed to lay flat on the bottom of the tank.
I don't know if this is possible with the ffr tank.
BobAttachment 31284

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy

Frank
The plastic grid on the bottom of the filter sock is designed to lay flat on the bottom of the tank.
I don't know if this is possible with the ffr tank.
BobAttachment 31284

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Oh cool. My Walbro pump has an aftermarket filter on it I believe (no plastic). It's close to laying flat; hopefully close enough! Thanks Bob!

Wow the floor is on already. Moving fast! Will you have issues fitting the seat mounts if the floor is fixed? I think some others sweat for a while just cuz the floor was limiting access.

About fuel, I may change my forecast setup and thought of a Walbro. You are replacing the in-tank OEM pump with the Walbro and that's it? Walbro will fit in-tank? Basically, it's a straight swap, no special brackets or mods required?