:) I was gone for a few weeks in Europe - but plan on being in the garage this week!
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It's really unfortunate when work gets in the way of your project car...
Received these coil over adjusters from Brad today.
Attachment 190849
Really nicely made. Looking forward to being able to adjust my ride height without pulling the coil overs out.
Thanks heaps mate!
Had my appointment with the smog referee today. They were really cool but the car being electric stumped them a little with how to enter it in the system. So after some messing with it, the car is now categorized as a 1960 Tesla with a 4.3 liter rotary engine. The 1960 triggers it to be smog exempt, Tesla is the motor mfg, 4.3l comes from entering 265 KW which the system interpreted as 265 c.i. and converted to 4.3l, and rotary - because well, why not rotary? haha. Whatever, it got what I needed done. I'll go back to DMV tomorrow if I get time and I should get the plates then I hope. It's been an interesting process but not as bad as I was expecting at least.
Just a curious question, do they not have a category for assembled vehicles including Tesla's? Are modern era Tesla's Smog exempt?
They do for production EV’s but this is a different process. CA allows 500 “specially constructed” cars a year to be exempt from emissions testing. It’s based on the engine mfg not car mfg for the smog referee which makes sense. Mine is the first electric one they’ve dealt with under that process so they just made due with what they had to work with in the system. I’m sure eventually they’ll add more options to list.
Finished up the registration process at DMV today and got my plates. Title should be sent by mail in a month or so. Nice to be done with all that!
Now your free to roam and let some smoke out of the wheel wells! Have fun.
Sounds really arbitrary. At any rate, congratulations on your build, I have been watching it since your first post. I find it extremely exciting and truly admire you for your craftsmanship and engineering. Look forward to see you using it on the road and having fun with it. This was always my dream build, I just don't have the talent. Would love to see data on performance, range, reliability and so forth. I sincerely think this is the way of the future.
IMHO, "Arbitrary" is the CA bureaucracy's guiding principle. It's how they exert their power over the plebs while avoiding any responsibility for their actions. That's one reason why builders have widely different registration experiences depending on which DMV office they attempt to use. Some builders even go far away from their local DMV office because they have heard that the manager at another site a) is familiar with SB100 and b) is not a d***. (puts soapbox away...)
So Brad, when are you planning on staging your road trip to down here to show off your ride?
That leads to the next question: what system do you use to charge the car when you are away from home?
Glad to see that you are on the road and legal. I hope you continue to post occasionally so we can all see the inevitable tweaks and upgrades. A few driving vids would also be a good thing.
Keith HR #894
Definitely true about shopping for the right DMV. There are some around here known for being very familiar with the SB100 process, but that also couples sometimes with stories (nothing firsthand though so take it for what it is..) about being charged taxes again for parts you already paid state sales tax on - based on full declared value of the car. Also about some requiring the builder to put a taxable value on their own labor at minimum wage. Folsom DMV here was great actually - not super familiar with the process but I was fine with that. I paid the actual taxes due which for me was just on the FFR kit, but I would have had a real big problem with being taxed on my own labor. It didn't come up though thankfully. Again, I'm not certain that's a true thing but given b.s. things CA does ALL the time it wouldn't surprise me in the least.
Keith - no plans to head down there with the car for now. It's not really conducive to long trips since I can't do DC fast charging but maybe someday. I have a 220 charging station at home but I'm limited to a 30A circuit. Full charge on the car should be about 6-7 hours so not a big deal for what the typical usage will be for it. If I do need a backup option at some point they have 110V portable chargers. If I know a place has a 220 plug I can take my main one too - it's easily portable.
Thank you for the comments - glad you've enjoyed following it! I'll post more for sure as the car evolves. I have a list of things to tweak already and I'll keep updating this.
So far the one top-off charge I've done with a previous full charge baseline showed 3 miles per KWh. That was with a mix of easy driving and a few throttle mashes. That would come out to about a 120 mile range. I need to do a few checks at 100% normal driving (if I can.. ha) to work out what the max range might be. I'll see about doing a driving video too maybe.
Congratulations Brad, That was definitely an interesting process. I'm glad to see it all came into play for you. My project is still at the weld shop, hope to have it back the first part of the week.
I want to do something that breaks up the front battery box appearance. Too flat and boring on the top I think. Although I did get some mileage out of telling a couple people it's a "crate" motor. The battery pack top surfaces actually look kind of cool so I'm going to mock this up and see what it looks like. If I like it I'll cut the holes in the top panel and 3D print the four bezels that will go down to the top of the packs. I think it'll give it some nice depth from just the flat surface.
Attachment 191090
The top of the battery packs look like this...
Attachment 191091
I'm having issues with the front fenders just barely hitting the tires on hard bumps like manhole covers at higher speeds. The brackets that came with the fenders were kind of crap - soft steel, badly pitted, and no adjustment. I redesigned them to have some slotted adjustability and also made from stainless steel. They should show up in a day or so. I'll be able to dial in the distance between the tire as well as the clocking angles to get them matching better left to right.
Attachment 191092
What about adding some sort of electronic graphic? Something like this ...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1697131476
crate motor! LOL....
not sure how much hood clearance you have but you could 3D print something along the lines of an engine cover, or get an OEM one....
Steve
I half thought about a Coyote top cover but then it's just trying to make it look like something it's not. I'm limited to 10"x13" with the 3D printer too. I could technically bond several parts together with a lot of finishing work but then I go back to not having anything in mind to add to the top that would look nice. I tried some ideas in CAD a few months ago and nothing clicked for me. I'm not artistic enough for that I think. I'll see how the reveal looks as far as just adding depth and go from there. I ordered a cheap mock up panel from SendCutSend to try out.
How about a large Tesla emblem?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1697139719
With all the design effort that you have put in, I think it is only fair that you should include a reference to yourself like initials or something incorporated into the top cover.
Maybe make the top cover out of polished stainless steel? I.e. plain and practical component, just a bit pretty.
Similar to Ford on the Mach-e, make a simple cover with 33HR-e on it
Jim
Or maybe just a large battery schematic symbol with +, -, and XXX VDC embossed?
BTW, I have a pair of Coyote dress-up valve covers that I bought with my crate motor, but they don't fit as advertised and I can't use them. They are your for the cost of the postage, if that is of any help to you.
Keith HR #894
Thanks everyone for the suggestions! I'll play around with the options. I have a big vinyl cutter at work to make temporary stickers too which will help.
I got the new fender brackets and put them on just now. WAY better. The adjustability makes it easy to space and clock the fenders the same on each side, and the small normal flex of the fenders is less too with the stainless steel. I added about 3/8" more space from the tire so I think that should stop the occasional touching I was having. I might pass the change suggestion back to McQueen for any future kits they sell.
I also don't have to remove the lower control arm ball joint nut anymore to remove the bracket since I can slide it up higher to clear the castle nut. Extra bonus...
Attachment 191118 Attachment 191117
I redesigned them myself and had them made by SendCutSend. It was about $165. It's easy to order another set if you're interested. I'd have to check if they can be delivered to a different address than mine.
I sent an email to McQueen suggesting they consider changing theirs but not sure what they will say.
Brad,
I loved driving next to you a few weeks back. You at any shows this weekend?
Yeah, except when we got on it mine got a bit sketchy before I had the caster adjusted right and the pallet of bricks that was the front coilovers. Ha - not sure if you saw me waver a bit in the lane. Oh well - it's better now.
I'll be at CNC tomorrow morning I think.
Congratulations on embarking on your Tesla-powered 33 Hot Rod project! It sounds like an exciting and ambitious build. Using a Tesla Model 3 Performance rear drive unit with 355Hp and instant torque is a fantastic choice for this electrified endeavor. Your plan to adapt the Model 3 IRS to your chassis is both innovative and challenging, but your determination is inspiring.
The LG Chem Super Cell battery packs from EV West seem like a solid choice, and wiring them for 400V and a 130-mile range should work well for your project. Your choice of the EV Controls T-2C motor controller shows careful consideration. As for the BMS and charger, it's wise to take your time to decide on the right components for your setup.
Best of luck with your build, and please keep us updated on your progress. It's a unique project, and we can't wait to see how it turns out!
I have a few partial charge cycles on it now and the math is still showing a 120-140 mile range - which is exactly what I was hoping for. I'm still having trouble getting the state of charge reporting but I noticed today monitoring charging with the BMS connected to a PC that the shunt resistor current value is off by a factor of 10 - which explains why SoC is off. I have an email out to the BMS mfg. about it. Hopefully an easy fix.
Looks like the car is going to the big Sacramento Auto Show this weekend! I got invited to display it in the classic car building. Should be fun. I'll sign up for a few shifts working there Friday and Sunday to help out as well.
https://www.sacautoshow.com/special-...-car-show-off/
Dropped the car off at the show today. It starts tomorrow.
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Looks great. Nice company too.