The cobra is home! Everyone is asking what the car's name is... LOL, I have no clue! Give me some ideas!
Also, I took the car to our local Cars & Coffee - got a LOT of eyeballs on it!
https://i.imgur.com/ax08IuV.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/a9yDQLt.jpeg
Printable View
The cobra is home! Everyone is asking what the car's name is... LOL, I have no clue! Give me some ideas!
Also, I took the car to our local Cars & Coffee - got a LOT of eyeballs on it!
https://i.imgur.com/ax08IuV.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/a9yDQLt.jpeg
adjusted the ride height in the rear, the front is perfect at 4" and the rear was also 4" - we raised the rear to 4.5" because over bumps the 315s out back would rub the body a bit
Attachment 201353
took the car for alignment - to a place I've never used, but was recommended
unfortunately they didn't feel they could adjust the camber properly without disassembling the front upper arms and placing shims to bring the camber up
For a car using power steering car use the following specifications:
Caster: 7
Camber: -0.5°
Total Toe: 1/16”
2015 IRS only
Camber: -0.5°to -0.75°
Total Toe: 1/8” Toe in
Attachment 201354 Attachment 201355
they wanted $800 to do this... needless to say I paid them $35 for a diagnostic fee and drove home... will hit up another local spot that i KNOW has worked on FFRs before
They clearly don’t know what they’re doing.
Jeff
Owning two of the eyeballs that were on your car that day I will confirm the collective oversized thumbs up there was on it! Nice job!!
Pretty sure Eddie at Tire Pros will do it. They did my 33 and it's a PIA. And they only charged me like $180 I think for 4 wheel.
Some small adders today - did the rear view mirror, side mirrors and the wind wings
https://i.ibb.co/j4RjXC2/IMG-3452.jpg
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/blob...a-b0cbb4ccb4ea
also installed the Breeze radiator cowl cover, this was a tricky 1 man job
Thankfully I pre drilled everything prior to the body going on, I really like how this part buttons up the front of the engine bay and will keep the air flowing through the radiator and not up and over the engine
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/blob...f-66d1a6cfd958
https://i.ibb.co/6wrw4Kp/IMG-3453.jpg https://i.ibb.co/C2VZc8s/IMG-3455.jpg
also added the side badges
https://i.ibb.co/2cbqThL/IMG-3457.jpg
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/blob...f-63a6126ee624
simple stuff since it's 112 outside, garage is barely keeping up around 86-89 with the A/C running...
visors and rear view mirror - with square nuts this time :)
a LOT of sanding/grinding to get the 8-32 nuts to fit into the windshield channel (for the mirror) - but much easier than trying to hold a hex nut with a screwdriver (because they spin)
https://i.ibb.co/c6cBNQQ/IMG-3480-1.jpg https://i.ibb.co/W5cmHmy/IMG-3479.jpg https://i.ibb.co/5T53xDV/IMG-3478.jpg https://i.ibb.co/sPFJTFN/IMG-3485-1.jpg https://i.ibb.co/Gnxf06M/IMG-3484-1.jpg https://i.ibb.co/b5hmJLn/IMG-3483-2.jpg
also hooked up the fuel filler hose and ground strap - now I can actually get some gas in the tank, will probably do 1/3rd of a tank to get it aligned this friday
also working on the license plate light wiring, and adding an LED light bar to the filler plate to light up the trunk a bit more when the interior lights are on (pics to come!)
also, the rear view camera/backup light setup with my license plate frame won't work in the current setup, either the camera on top blocks the license plate lights, or with the camera on the bottom, the trunk won't open
more planning needed !!
You're not going to like this but if you use 6-32 square nuts they slip right in. Got that from Mr. Kleiner.Quote:
Originally Posted by toadster
yes I used 6-32 on the visors, but couldn't get them to work on the rear view mirror... had to go with 8-32 :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike.Bray
got my new appointment to get aligned, the guys at BigO didn't disappoint! only $129 and 1.5 hours - dialed in!
Attachment 201876
Those are good numbers Todd. Set your tires to 22-23psi and the car ought to drive great!
Jeff
Thanks Jeff! I've been wondering about the tire pressure... I believe they're at 35psi right now, but tracks EXTREMELY well compared to previously!Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner
If I check the Yokohama site it says this:
The optimum 'working' tyre temperature of the Yokohama Advan A052 is around 40 degrees Celsius, with a temperature spread of 10-15 degrees across the tyre tread area.
Yokohama recommend the following technical set up: Optimum hot pressure dry use 2.0 - 2.2 bar or 29-32lbs. Minimum cold air pressure is 1.4 bar or 20lbs
Trust me, the car isn't heavy enough to create full tread contact when they are run that high. With that much pressure the tire will be overinflated for the load and only running on the center of the tread.
Jeff
tidying up some items before the inspections... one item was a VERY touchy brake light - we thought this was resolved prior to the body going on, BUT it stayed...
crawling into the driver footbox is a contortionists dream! fortunately the seats aren't attached yet, so that simplified things a bit
the problem is that with the Whitby power brake pedal and the Wilwood pedal setup is that the mount point for the brake switch is about 1/8th of an inch too short with both hex nuts attached
this would cause the brake lights to stay on, and would actually 'flutter' when driving because the switch was right on that edge on open/closed when driving and the pedal riding on the switch
we need the switch to move closer to the brake pedal by about 1/8" of an inch that nut is just a bit too thick!
https://i.ibb.co/ysk3PNc/image.png
getting into the footbox took sheer will, and some stretched neck muscles for sure!
this is my son Ryan (who is 6'3") and barely can get in the footbox, I'm sure I filled in the space a bit more LOL
https://i.ibb.co/Syn9J1c/image.png
the goal was to use a crescent wrench to loosen the top nut while keeping the switch intact to allow us to remove the switch and the nut behind the switch and replace it with a simple washer, not sure if this will hold over time but need to get this fixed or it won't pass brake and light inspection
with a thin washer in place of the nut, and hopefully tightened down enough the brake pedal switch is now kept open at rest, and works as expected - need to go-kart a bit more to test it out
you can see the much thinner washer and it moved the switch ever closer to the pedal bar
https://i.ibb.co/6rDVLD0/image.png
doing more post-paint checklist items:
1. shortened the seatbelts a bit more, I tell that that's fun with the body on! it helps to have the speakers removed though to get a few hands in there! Now they're pretty snug, and I feel better to attach the seats and submarine belt.
2. figured out my turn signal/dash flashing issue - was a bad LED bulb, I put the incandescents in for now in the front - a replacement LED is on it's way and I'll test again
3. buttoned up my dash and re-installed the speedometer (which was removed to ease access behind the dash when we were chasing the weird electrical issue in #2)
4. fixed a bad ground in the rear of the car, essentially the ground to all the trunk lighting was dead, installed a new ground in the trunk and all good
5. installing an LED in the trunk cover (from DWC) to give more light from the top/inside of the trunk
https://i.ibb.co/mtXKrnQ/image.png
6. was fidgeting with the license plate lights, how we found the bad ground, and I snapped off the screw :(
https://i.ibb.co/JHp7vtT/image.png
7. #6 forced me into my backup camera install, got things drilled, now I just need to mount it
https://i.ibb.co/SVxbPtK/image.png
https://i.ibb.co/9p4ncq8/image.png
had more fun finishing up the rear view camera setup... not for the light of heart for sure
from my last post, since the screw post snapped on my license plate light, this is the time to get this mod done - was going to wait for after registration, but - without the light cover attached, I figured it would fail inspection
now - in order for the camera to fit into the light fixture, the grounding bar is in the way where the camera will sit - the nice part is that the ground bar is a bit higher than the actual camera spot I located, just a hair below the screw post
I used the 18.5mm hole saw and cut a raw hole
https://i.ibb.co/WvN3bpd/IMG-3765.jpg
notice that the bar still is connected, so there's ground continuity to both lights for the license plate
next up, I needed a little more width for the screws I was going to use , the ground bar isn't wide enough, so two 1/8" holes were drilled and I added a small aluminum bar to overhang the grounding bar a bit
https://i.ibb.co/rtRJ5G3/IMG-3774.jpg
using some small rivets, I was able to place the two the extension bar just between the ground and positive bars, without touching - there's plenty of clearance
https://i.ibb.co/m6Lb2mV/IMG-3776.jpg
top view of the result - the new #25 holes with #10-24 tap will be used next
https://i.ibb.co/zbk3Bm4/IMG-3777.jpg
next up, spacing out the exterior screws, I used #10-24 since I have a boatload of them :)
measured equal distances from center and use a 7/16 bit for the bolt holes
https://i.ibb.co/92pvJDX/IMG-3778.jpg
once the exterior holes were drilled, then I could use a #25 drill bit and then tap the holes for 10-24 screws
also note, I had to use the 18.5mm hole saw on the added aluminum bar as well
https://i.ibb.co/yPgtF3q/IMG-3780.jpg
hopefully you can see the tolerances between the lights, screws and positive/negative bars
https://i.ibb.co/0VpxF3H/IMG-3781.jpg
here's the camera I used - 1080P Backup Camera
we had to clock the camera a bit to get it aligned, pretty simple after all the installation
https://i.ibb.co/RHktCKc/IMG-3785.jpg
and the finished result :)
https://i.ibb.co/BN40Hwf/IMG-3786.jpg
Nice work Todd, how is your A/C working for you? Can you drive the car on a 90+ degree day and not turn into a baked potato?
That backup camera is neat, it would be handy to have on all the time as the rearview mirrors I have don't give the best view. I doubt if I have the energy to add it to a finished car though.
to be honest, on a finished car it would be a bit of a chore with the wiring, neat idea for always on, but then I'd never see the radio screen :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike.Bray
it does rather well! keeps the footbox nice and cool, got sunburnt yesterday not realizing how much sun was on us! LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by Fman
A backup camera in the license plate light housing...who would have thought? Pretty cool! Things are coming together very nicely, Todd. Looking great!
did my first fillup last night, I even got .10c off per gallon, stupid CA gas prices
https://i.ibb.co/Vq1sKD9/image.png
and before you ask, this is the Boyds gas tank :)
https://i.ibb.co/hgMZtyv/image.png
a few more things to get the build a few more steps along...
installed an LED into the DWC filler panel, this adds a TON of light into the trunk - as you can imagine, stuffing your trunk full of stuff can block the trunk lights - this gives you a nice overhead light to see :)
https://i.ibb.co/C0hP8zm/IMG-3468.jpg https://i.ibb.co/XyzJy6S/IMG-3938.jpg
added my exhaust hangers, and used rivnuts like many have so I didn't have to bolt through the 2" square tubes
I'm using the Gas'N hardware and may change over time to a different exhaust hanger setup, but these Coyote 4-in-1 headers mount pretty well to the Gas'N side pipes
note: pics below are basic setup, not fully tightened down
https://i.ibb.co/WyCFg6Y/IMG-3940.jpg https://i.ibb.co/mHYGw4B/IMG-3941.jpg
lastly, also mounted my Drummer Mike Side Pipe Shields - these are REALLY nice quality!
I tweaked my install a little bit... added some high-temp gasket material to the exhaust wrap that sits inside the bands between the exhaust pipe and the shield - REALLY simplified installation by holding the gasket in place!
https://i.ibb.co/59gcXms/IMG-4003.jpg https://i.ibb.co/kH2z17t/IMG-3943.jpg
I also used some leftover zero-clearance shielding from Breeze Automotive to add another layer of insulation to really reduce temps
https://i.ibb.co/NTStzt9/IMG-3951.jpg https://i.ibb.co/dLkQdrx/IMG-3949.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/Pjzk5jf/IMG-4004.jpg
will do some temp comparisons soon to show the heat difference...
CHP inspection tomorrow!
pre-drilled my plate mount :)
https://i.ibb.co/bbQ71Lp/IMG-4007.jpg
getting closer to being fully registered!!
FWIW If your pipes start to sag you can toss out that rubber grommet and go with thicker exhaust straps which won't stretch out and will hold the pipes level. Those drummer mike shields look great, it's too bad he stopped making them... top notch quality!Quote:
Originally Posted by toadster
thanks Travis - I have those straps on my Amazon wishlist :) will see how they go - these 4-into-1 header flange mounts are pretty sturdy - the pipes seem dead on after 195 miles so far but now at least they're supported a bit more nowQuote:
Originally Posted by Fman
agree, the drummer mike shields are excellent quality - I got them just as prices doubled! ouch!
I wrapped one of these around the rubber grommet to give it some extra support without taking out all of the flex.
cool idea! I could probably even use a 4" metal bands and tighten down, may come loose over time though...Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike.Bray
also, here's a temperature pic of the exhaust - the Drummer Mike Shields with the zero-clearance makes a HUGE difference!!
the pics were taken about 3 minutes after the car was shut down - yes that's 53 degrees cooler with the shields and insulation!
https://i.ibb.co/x5VbkfD/IMG-4029.jpg https://i.ibb.co/X7fvVmW/IMG-4032.jpg
another postitive today, passed brake and light inspection ($225 eek!)
also got my VIN # from CHP, just need to wait for my SPCNS number to be assigned to visit the BAR Referee to finish my SB100 - then back to DMV to finalize plates!
Hi Todd,
I have similar shields on my side pipes (legally required here) although drummer Mikes are nicer :). They work well.
The temperature readings you are getting may be false as infra red sensors don't get along well with reflective surfaces.
Cheers,
Nige.
Or curved surfaces. We use contact thermocouples in these types of situations.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nigel Allen
little things while I wait for my SB100 paperwork to arrive... slow process, but at least nearly done!
added the rear fender shields and the whitby fillers for behind the seats
https://i.ibb.co/d7WGt2b/IMG-4162.jpg https://i.ibb.co/jTD62m0/IMG-4161.jpg https://i.ibb.co/pLNbwCc/IMG-4159.jpg Attachment 204430https://i.ibb.co/5RZW9zg/IMG-4158.jpg
it's crazy the size of the gap in the rear wheel well
Attachment 204432 Attachment 204433 Attachment 204431
not a pretty install, I had to flip both parts top/bottom to fit the body spacing - but it will seal up the wheel well, and honestly who sees this?
have a car show this saturday - no plates yet, but hopefully nobody will complain :)
another pic of the rear shield (passenger side) used Raptor bedliner coating - it's not super thick (at least the spray can version) but it will hopefully remove some of the resonance/tinny sound for rocks ;)
Attachment 204498 Attachment 204497 Attachment 204496
In case you're wondering, the blue hose is my fuel vapor canister (link to install)
IMHO, these are worth the $$$ will prevent any starring in your paint from a hard rock hit in you wheel well.
http://vraptorspeedworks.com/mk-4-wheel-well-liner-kit/
Thanks Travis - yes they're on my list, will have to customize them a bit due to the footbox blowers in front - I think you re-purposed your blowers right? any pics of your liner install?Quote:
Originally Posted by Fman
I agree with Travis on the recommendation for the wheel well liners. Besides giving a clean, finished look they will prevent rocks from being kicked up and hitting the underside of the body. Bed liner on the underside will protect, to a point, but IMO these provide far more protection. Here's a link to how I installed the rear liners. I didn't post an update to my build thread about the front liners, but they're basically the same process, other than coming up with some way to secure the front of the liners. One note worth mentioning, splash guard positioning is important, as it will determine how deep into the wheel well the liners sit. If the splash guard is close to the edge, the wheel well liners and their bulb seal will be very close to the fender lip. I wanted them a bit recessed and out of sight so I ended up doing a bunch of trimming to the splash guards to set them further back than the typical install to give plenty of room for the wheel well liners.
it's been a long 2 months waiting for my SB100 build number
I got #120 for 2024, assigned in September, but not mailed to me until 2 days ago - yes it took 2 months to get a piece of paper to allow me to move forward - crazy!
I talked with the BAR Referee yesterday, he called me early because all my paperwork was in order, and the photos were just what he needed. Yay for being thorough :)
I have my appointment on November 19th to have the visual inspection and pass my SMOG verification, then I can finally go back to DMV and get this car registered
I have almost 600 miles on the car now, going to replace the oil, trans fluid and differential fluid just to make sure things are good and check for any metal, etc.
I'll probably do an Oil analysis https://www.blackstone-labs.com/free-test-kits - the kits are shipped for free, just pay when you get the analysis done
for me it's a great way to see how things are wearing, etc. like a blood test by your labs for your annual checkup :cool:
Congratulations! This part of the process definitely tests your patience but well worth it in the end. BTW - if you want a personalized plate, expect to wait another 9 months :rolleyes:
well it's taken 10 months, but I now have a fully registered car in California! SB100 #120 for the year which is pretty low considering they offer up to 500 of them each calendar year!
https://i.ibb.co/svRz4sD/IMG-5020.jpg
pretty excited to get this part done and registered! about 640 miles on the car so far and it's been awesome!
Believe it or not, I've put about 1,300 miles on the car and realized that I hadn't put the door cards on! They were tucked away on a shelf in the garage, so I pulled them out and gave the leather a good treatment.
These match the FFR seats, transmission tunnel and radio box upholstery.
Attachment 219681
I was really adverse to drilling into my doors, so I opted for some really strong velcro. It's maybe overkill, but everything in this build has been like that.
I used VELCRO Brand Extreme Outdoor Double Sided Mounting Tape | Holds up to 15 Pounds on Brick or Other Rough Surfaces | UV and Weather Resistant | 14Ft Heavy Duty Roll
One thing's for sure, this stuff is sticky - which is the whole point! Two long strips, one across the top and one on the bottom, these panels should be set for quite a while.
The door cards came from Factory Five with the 25th Anniversary stitching, but the panels were in horrible shape from FFR.
Sadly, they didn't do anything about it, so when I had my transmission tunnel and stereo box wrapped, the guys at Fine Line Trim in Rancho Cordova, CA did a solid for me and rebuild the door cards for free!
You can see the panels with two long strips of velcro attached. I pressed pretty hard to ensure the tape adhered, and once it's attached, it's really on there!
Attachment 219682Attachment 219683
Time to say goodbye to those beautiful San Marino Blue painted doors, and add the new door cards. I think the new door cards look awesome!
Attachment 219684Attachment 219685
OK - this is a fun change, I submitted for a new California plate, even encouraged by my wife
somewhat surprised it made it through :rolleyes: IYKYK :cool:
Attachment 220868