Making progress on my build...

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Originally Posted by dallas_

Looking good. Thanks for the update, I enjoy following your progress.

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Thanks John!

All done but no adjustments made yet...
The bulky steel hinge mounts are gone, now just simple studs off the main chassis tubes. With the FFR setup, my hatch would bind up at the corners of the body if I opened it more than maybe 50 degrees. Have about 85 degrees of arc now, limited by the hinge endpoint. Very solid and fluid. Much happier with this setup! No more sloppiness or play in closed position.

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190901/hxxbz5mc.jpg

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190901/v7nns4qt.jpg

https://thumbs.gfycat.com/MeanSlight...restricted.gif

I'm going to try something...

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190902/njmmjv7s.jpg

I had hoped to do something like this originally, but the FFR hatch hinge and bracket were in the way...

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190902/hwnlroa7.jpg

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190902/om2syhkd.jpg

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190902/g7fl358v.jpg

Nice job on the brake booster, also enjoying reading through your build thread.

No issues on the Bel Ray. It costs me more than I sell it for by the time shipping etc. is calculated in. Your source is the cheapest I have seen. I will likely pick some up from them also. :)

Dave-

You are a freaking magician!! I really admire what you are doing, and how you are getting it done!

Your vision and execution are extraordinary, and I can't wait to see this thing done; but I am sure enjoying the build process, and the ride you are taking us on!!

Keep up the great work!!

Regards,

Steve

Dave

What year 350z roadster trunk hinge did you use to make your hinge? Looks good and really increases the hatch opening area.

Thanks Jkviper, Steve!

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Originally Posted by jamesfr58

Dave

What year 350z roadster trunk hinge did you use to make your hinge? Looks good and really increases the hatch opening area.

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Any of the US spec 350z roadsters/convertible, I think 2004-2008. NOT the coupe/hatchback. It's not plug and play, but really pretty easy to do with some simple welding.

I think I’ll steal that hinge idea.

update: I just bought a pair from eBay $18 shipped.

Loving this.

Thanks Dave I have the hatch on now but still not happy with fit so will keep working on it and may change the hinges as the ones you made seem to work great.

Damn, you have all the answers for this monster!

At times I wish I knew all of these solutions before starting my build. It makes me want to redo my car over and over.

Your hatch contour is pretty much perfect with the roof line.
Did you modify anything, or was it matched "out of the box"?

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Originally Posted by Procision-Auto

Damn, you have all the answers for this monster!

At times I wish I knew all of these solutions before starting my build. It makes me want to redo my car over and over.

Your hatch contour is pretty much perfect with the roof line.
Did you modify anything, or was it matched "out of the box"?

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It didn't match perfectly out of the box. I think you are referring to this picture (I still have not made any adjustments after welding it in, may need to adjust slightly). The 350z hinges really control the position of the hatch leading edge. There is an adjustment screw built into the hinge as well that allows fine-tuning of the closed position. Before I installed the hinge, the driver's side leading edge of the hatch sat about 1/3" higher than it is in this picture. I placed a weight on that corner of the hatch to hold it symmetric to the passenger side of the hatch while I welded the mounting studs for the hinge to the GTM frame (hinge was already bolted to the hatch). Now it knows where to live in the closed position. The FFR hinges didn't have that control of position, too sloppy.

https://s17.directupload.net/images/190831/ljpm8nbw.jpg

With all the cv and axle work does anyone know a source for the c clips? They have been hard to find.

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Originally Posted by HardRocker

With all the cv and axle work does anyone know a source for the c clips? They have been hard to find.

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Yeah, I had the same experience.....here is a thread I started on that:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...LE+SPRING+CLIP

I ended up finding some in a box on the shelf here, so never did try to order any or find them to purchase....

Thanks Shane. That 22727024 part number did the trick.

OK... Few updates. Life has been busy!
Homemade front fuse/relay box ready for harness wrap.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191105/pjr56pi3.jpg

Confirming that the A/C condensor will fit behind the passenger side intake.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191105/fl5ujt4y.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191105/igbvmhl6.jpg

Glassed in the 1/4 windows to match the Honda B-pillars.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191105/q9ksx7v2.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191105/vnq56rxi.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191105/eie9tbxk.jpg

Attachment 117159

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Built up my airbox, almost done. Will make a scoop for the intake (probably 3D printed).

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191105/vum98jvn.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191105/a9piwb56.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191105/lenoqits.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191105/qjkwfqv4.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191105/ocyvexp6.jpg

Kind of a pain building the box to fit the body at the air intake and work around the chassis tube!

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191105/f8kjjb5j.jpg

Upgraded the 3D printer, I kept needing to print things that were too big for the build area on the old printer.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191105/byakuch6.jpg


Attachment 117165

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Just about finished up the airbox. Not trying to win any beauty pageants since the outside will be covered with heat shielding.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191106/z4hpndex.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191106/6g3lbral.jpg

Air filter is accessible, the red portion of the airbox will be held in place by screws/rivnuts.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191106/rhndjzxp.jpg

Quick update.
Finishing up the wiring.
Yamaha R1 projectors, but they are switched side-to-side so they had to be cracked open and new beam cutoffs made.
https://s19.directupload.net/images/191130/lomxsmi3.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191130/xhw87hrk.jpg

Done, here's a Pic taken just below the cutoff and just above it.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191130/jthni4u3.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191130/kdqfucvk.jpg

Finishing up the spoiler...

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191130/xzl33tuo.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191130/gnnnm56f.jpg

Even back in '94 Honda was using variable resistors to control lighting, wipers, etc. So I'm having to tear switches apart and jump the internals to dumb them down a little.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191130/2ft5hin5.jpg

I wired up the turn signals to a standard flasher relay and FYI for you guys planning on running LED lights on the corners, the LEDs don't draw enough current to make the flasher relay even work. Ordered some flasher relays designed for the low draw of LEDs:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011BTMDQM..._1.O4DbN6JQ5QG

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Originally Posted by beeman

I wired up the turn signals to a standard flasher relay and FYI for you guys planning on running LED lights on the corners, the LEDs don't draw enough current to make the flasher relay even work. Ordered some flasher relays designed for the low draw of LEDs:

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All you need to do is put a resistor across the LED leads to increase the draw when in use. The LED specific flashers are the official way to do it, but the resistors are the cheap and easy way to do it.

Beeman,

here is a link to the load resistors that I used, for the led turn signal lights that were supplied by FFR.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...g-fix/190/831/

Steve

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Originally Posted by beeman

I had to move the foot box forward and create a new firewall. I utilized 1/8" steel plate for the firewall. I incorporated modified Toyota pedals, converted from OEM hanging style to floor mounted. Utilizing C5 Corvette brake booster/master cylinder, Toyota 5/8" clutch master cylinder, Corvette fly by wire gas pedal converted to floor mounted. Driver footbox extended with sheetmetal into tunnel area, cooling lines will run outside the car similar to the 818.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/160214/55slxyxx.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/160213/83p8sjq2.jpg

Clutch pedal converted to floor mount

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/160320/4bb65vza.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/160320/nwsldhmk.jpg

Corvette booster with shortened piston rod, fashioned a 1/2" aluminum spacer.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/160111/uwlws6jb.jpg

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/160320/takqxyoa.jpg

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Dave,

What are your thoughts on adjusting brake bias? You and I have a similar setup to our mid engine kits and I am not sure if I will need to add a proportioning valve to either the front or the rear brakes or both to dial it in. Curious what you are thinking.

Thanks,

Joel

Thanks Mike and Steve.

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Dave,

What are your thoughts on adjusting brake bias? You and I have a similar setup to our mid engine kits and I am not sure if I will need to add a proportioning valve to either the front or the rear brakes or both to dial it in. Curious what you are thinking.

Thanks,

Joel

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Joel, are you running ABS? I'm running the OEM C5 ABS/EBCM so I'm not so concerned about front or rear lock-up, but there still may be some imbalance under track conditions. I looked through some of the C5 forums and usually guys are changing calipers to get more braking from the rear. Some of the C5 Track guys have ripped out the ABS and went with a Tilton/Wilwood setup. I don't think a variable proportioning valve is a great option in my situation as it would probably screw with the EBCM. I'm wanting the best option for street + track. Track only, I would probably ditch the ABS and booster entirely.

No ABS, no track and the stock Gen V Camaro dual Master Cylinder(1” bore) with Gen 5 Camaro SS calipers. The stock Tilton master cylinders are 3/4” front and 7/8” rear so if my math is correct this setup sends 16% more pressure to the rear calipers. So my thinking is to maybe put the proportion valve on the front brakes and that way I could create similar balance.

I have’t put much thought beyond that, but thought I’d ask since we are following similar paths.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jkviper

No ABS, no track and the stock Gen V Camaro dual Master Cylinder(1” bore) with Gen 5 Camaro SS calipers. The stock Tilton master cylinders are 3/4” front and 7/8” rear so if my math is correct this setup sends 16% more pressure to the rear calipers. So my thinking is to maybe put the proportion valve on the front brakes and that way I could create similar balance.

I have’t put much thought beyond that, but thought I’d ask since we are following similar paths.

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With the larger MC on the rear brakes, that should make less pressure than the fronts......more fluid flow, less pressure. You would have to go to smaller MC size to increase pressure.....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC

With the larger MC on the rear brakes, that should make less pressure than the fronts......more fluid flow, less pressure. You would have to go to smaller MC size to increase pressure.....

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Thanks so much Shane for adding your input. i’m Glad I have it backward, now it makes more sense with what I would need to do to get good brake balance. Dave, didn’t mean to hijack your thread and appreciate your feedback as well.

I'm pretty proud of my redneck 8 channel wireless steering wheel button system!

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191206/cuw8j3rg.jpg

Lots of tedious soldering...

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191206/cvhz549d.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191207/aq8g37md.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191218/62nd6z8t.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191218/fhz884ob.jpg

Continuing to mock up the console... I wouldn't dare build a C5 based kit without a manly DIC!

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191218/zgf6gqlu.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191218/ktkgvpz7.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191218/5vaapfy7.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by beeman

Thanks Mike and Steve.


Joel, are you running ABS? I'm running the OEM C5 ABS/EBCM so I'm not so concerned about front or rear lock-up, but there still may be some imbalance under track conditions. I looked through some of the C5 forums and usually guys are changing calipers to get more braking from the rear. Some of the C5 Track guys have ripped out the ABS and went with a Tilton/Wilwood setup. I don't think a variable proportioning valve is a great option in my situation as it would probably screw with the EBCM. I'm wanting the best option for street + track. Track only, I would probably ditch the ABS and booster entirely.

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If you are considering tuning the GTM for the track
The proportioning setup from willwood is required.

I has stop tech custom build the calipers to match the weight bias and traction of the GTM. Even so the ability to adjust the bias really changes the turn in.

On the street it doesn’t matter at all. The GTM has so much extra braking capacity it’s silly.

On the track some form of bias adjustment is a must have.

The C5 although using the same components doesn’t drive anything like a GTM on the track. It’s apples and pineapples.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by beeman

I'm pretty proud of my redneck 8 channel wireless steering wheel button system!

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191206/cuw8j3rg.jpg

Lots of tedious soldering...

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191206/cvhz549d.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191207/aq8g37md.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191218/62nd6z8t.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/191218/fhz884ob.jpg

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Nice job man. Are you milling or printing those components?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kabacj

Nice job man. Are you milling or printing those components?

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3D printing. Prototypes in PLA, final components will be carbon fiber reinforced nylon. How's your track car? Any updates?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by beeman

3D printing. Prototypes in PLA, final components will be carbon fiber reinforced nylon. How's your track car? Any updates?

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Very cool. Yeah I’ve been busy updating my capabilities in the shop for the next phase of development. I need some robots to help me get the job done. Updates are coming soon. :)

The redneck setup looks pretty sharp to me!!! Nice work

I'm naming this mod "The GTM can be a Grand Tourer".

I was privileged to have the guy who built the exhaust for this out to my shop a few days ago.

https://falconf7.com/wp-content/uplo...P-1030x579.jpg

He's going to make sure the exhaust routing works for the modification. On my end, it begins by narrowing the gearbox subframe so that the luggage compartments are accessible.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200112/h36gauvl.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200112/bvmpz43w.jpg

Can any of you mathematicians tell me how much shop space I lost to the 15' trampoline?

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200112/agpx73vn.jpg

Apparently not enough space to hamper your build LOL. Maybe one day I’ll have a shop big enough to fit my build(s) and and trampoline :p

Time for the diffuser. Well, I've been studying this book

https://prodimage.images-bn.com/pima...1_s550x406.jpg

The Gen1 diffuser measures almost 30 degrees which certainly does not work. Unfortunately it's a single unit so the angle can only be changed by cutting it.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200116/jzomytjz.jpg

Edit : that's better. The underside (that you don't want the airflow to detach from) is very rough. I'll sand it down and clear coat it to make an air-friendly surface. If you install per manual, do not consider the diffuser as more than a cosmetic piece. Which is fine, of course, for street cars that don't exceed speed limits by too much.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200116/oqvvewtt.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200116/kkldu8yt.jpg

So here's what 10 degrees looks like at ride height (4.75" at rear of main chassis tube). My rear 'bumper" might be slightly higher or lower than FFR design due to my mods. 7 degrees of diffuser angle is what most say is safe for a functional diffuser without wind tunnel work and without assistive aero devices (ie a rear wing). 10 degrees should be safe with a spoiler or wing, maybe even 15 degrees with a wing. At 10 degrees, there is about 20mm of clearance to the ground at the edges of the diffuser so it would need trimmed for street use, probably even for track use. I'm thinking that the best option would be 2 diffuser angles, easily switched, with around 10 degrees for the track and a higher angle for the street where efficiency is not a concern for the most part.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200117/wfgmh7uo.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200117/9lmz6bjy.jpg

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200117/6265e3e8.jpg

Now it's starting to look like a functional diffuser. These guys are running the highest angles they can to maximize downforce, so you can see where they found the limit even with big wings...

http://www.slipstreamnetwork.com/wp-...E834B5_tmp.jpg

http://www.slipstreamnetwork.com/wp-...A388_tmp-1.jpg

http://www.slipstreamnetwork.com/wp-...fans12side.jpg

Again, here's me at 10 degrees.

https://s19.directupload.net/images/200117/i7yjpugz.jpg