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I bent the arms of the windshield and it went in fine. Quick question for the experts… After marking the holes, one of the sides is not parallel. Do I simply drill the holes in the center of the arm and parallel to the sides? Or do I drill where the marks are. The marks make it even on both sides, and where it wanted to lay. I figured in the center??? Or will that twist it and stress the windshield? Any advice, as always, is greatly appreciated!
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Yes, just transfer your marks over to the center. Life will be much easier for you if you drill and tap the windshield arms rather than drilling through and using nuts and bolts. On my Mk5 since space is tight and getting a tool (specifically a 3/4" swivel socket on a 1/2" bolt) in there I used 3/8" socket head bolts which can be more easily accessed with an allen socket with swivel. Just something you might want to consider. Oh, by the way, don't forget to shim as necessary to take up any space between the windshield arms and chassis!Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1761589256
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1764862334
Jeff
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Thanks!
So I made progress on the windshield, but I’m stuck. I couldn’t get it to line up, so I figured my bends were wrong, and it was twisted. So I installed the rails without the glass and tightened them so my measure was exact on both sides, 27.25”. I then installed the glass in one side and my angles were way off. So I bent them so they aligned. I got it so the top of the glass fit perfectly. When I went to install the lower bolts I am 1/4” off! Everything I read said to make sure to use spacers to not stress the glass! Are the spacers used so the rails are at an angle? What am I doing wrong? :( As usual any advice is appreciated!
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Should I bend the mounts a bit?
I wouldn't bend the mounts. It looks as though you have spacers in there but need them.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
Higgy
No, but you can put some twist into the side posta.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
Jeff
I’ll give that a shot. FFR says to simply attach glass and put spacers. I’ll keep everyone updated.
No spacers. The rivnuts add a 1/16” combined.Quote:
Originally Posted by Higgybulin
Hey Rick - what did you do with #3 in your post? The wires that come with the gauges or the wires in the harness? (assuming you are using the FFR Vintage 7 gauge GPS kit)Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
Wires that came with gauges.Quote:
Originally Posted by MakoGT350
Awesome - thanks!
BTW - really enjoying your build thread and getting a lot of value from all of your detail. You and I have a very similar build and you are a little ahead of me, it has been really helpful!
I installed my plate. Although it’s tied to an unofficial title that I have yet to resolve. I have to go through a 6-8 week process to get a copy of my COO back… Then I can start the next process…
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I was able to get the windshield installed. With the rivet-nuts I used, I decided to use longer bolts through the backside of them as “studs” and use nuts to attach. Worked like a charm. Still don’t understand how it fits with the glass pre-installed vs after. The upper mounts are tight and the lowers have a gap, so it’s in there at an angle and it did cause a small separation between the glass and the side rails.
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For those that are installing AC and wipers, make sure you can remove them, with the body on, so you can get your arm in there to install the windshield. Getting to the nuts and bolts on the driver side is a breeze. Passenger side is an exercise in contortion-ism!
When I get the go-kart back from the painter, I am going to modify both so I can remove/move them with the body on.
Drove it on the street for the first time. It definitely needs an alignment. It was sketchy above 40!
https://youtube.com/shorts/e8Jt_-YQG...a6XV1iE2wRnHEk
I put it in the lift to see if anything was loose or leaking. All good! But noticed my tire patch was a bit narrow! Forgot to lower the pressure. It was at 32, but it weighs 2440 lbs, so I set it to 24 psi. Hopefully that helps a bit. It has crazy power/acceleration!
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22-23 psi and get it aligned. If toe is off the car will be all over the place!!! :eek:
7-8 degrees positive caster
.5-.75 degree negative camber
3/32" total toe in (in, not out)
Jeff
Thanks!
Jeff, how about the rear camber? I have IRS.
Today I did a string alignment and got the rear dialed in. Was able to set toe and camber.i used a level from Amazon for the camber. In the front I set camber but not caster. I could not get toe set correctly. I’m pretty sure the tie rod ends need to be removed to do it. When I got one wheel set the other was way off. I’ll leave that to the pros. BUT it’s good enough to drive around the neighborhood. I was able to go 60 without feeling like I was going to die! I figured out some of the play in the steering was the shaft from the steering wheel going into the receiving shaft. I drilled and tapped a set screw to remove the play. Worked like a charm. I assume the rest will be gone once the caster/ toe is correct. As per the instructions, you are supposed to add a washer, but I never could figure out how to get it in there.
I also got my AC working! My son asked me to turn it off because it was freezing! I have not hooked up the vents so it was dumping on his lap.
Lastly I finished the carbon fiber wrap on the center console. I don’t like it. It’s too monotone. I got a rendering of it with wood. I like it and I’m going to give it a shot. That’s what good about vinyl wrap. It’s cheap to experiment and figure it out.
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Should I be worried about this rust? I noticed a lot of the black socket head bolts are rusting as well. Sand it and paint?
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Many, like myself, paint the differential and trans coupling while it's out of the car. That stuff will rust if you look at it the wrong way. Same with the IRS spindles. POR15 works great. I haven't seen an FFR driveshaft rust like that though during a build, especially up the slip yoke. Was it left outside or something?Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
No in my garage. It is really humid here. Same thing happened to some of my tools. :( I’ll look at POR15.
I used PB Blaster and a wire brush. Worked great. Need to clean it well and paint it…
Congrats on your build. I read in one of the threads about a driveshaft safety loop for the MK5. Can you share where you purchased this from??
Thanks! I got it here, but it took serious massaging(ie grinding and a big hammer) to get it to fit. FYI
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...Loop,2188.html
100 mile walk around. Brakes are dialed in. Steering is solid with a bit of play. Hopefully goes away with pro alignment. But overall drives amazing. Only been up to 65 mph, but that feels like 100! :)
https://youtube.com/shorts/55zZ4jpfP...1-d_plbKokodCb
Looking at post https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post589229, I see you changed this out in post https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post593672 to a ACDELCO 14110S, looks like you cut this into to 2 pieces with a connector to get the right orientation, is that the correct assumption or is it 2 separate types of hoses you used?
NVM I see you added more in post #429 - all Good
Thanks for this Rick, I am going to need this heater hose solution with my BP347
Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
Yep the AC Delco hose worked. You can trim it to fit after it clears the alternator.
I finished the interior. I really like the contrast. I ended up buying the panel from Snakebite Motorworks as I did not like the one that came with the kit. The multiple panels did not look right when covered with wrap. I did make the shifter hole as small as possible so that the shifter trim and e-brake trim rings would fit. The shifter ring is almost completely offset to the left. That was another reason for the blank panel. With the stock panel I could not get four screws on the e-brake trim.
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Great job! I like the look.
After some advice from the forum, I decided to re-route my heater hoses away from the EFI fuel lines. I’m not sure this is the final solution, but it will do for now.
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Update: I have been driving it and have 400 miles on it. I had gone over speed bumps without an issue, but this morning it bottomed out on a speed bump I had gone over before??? It’s basically bent 90 degrees. I’ll see if I can salvage it when I’m back in NC with the lift.
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When I looked at it I noticed the rear was pretty low. It had changed from 4.5” to 3”! I re-set the coilovers back to 4.5” and used the set screws. The roads here are pretty bumpy so I guess they worked themselves loose. I’ll definitely keep an eye on that in the future. The fronts did not change very much, but I reset them.
I had an issue with the AC making a squealing noise, and after advice from the forum I tightened the belt little by little until it stopped. Easy fix! Can’t wait to see how it drives once it’s properly aligned and corner balanced!
Quote:
Originally Posted by RKRacing
This is very helpful to see. I do wonder… I mean, eventually MCs leak. Odd to have your panel just under it.
I don’t really see anywhere else on the driver side it could be mounted. I could see space on the passenger side, but the bundles are (I suspect) the wrong length.
Thanks!
You are definitely limited to areas. If you are worried about leaking you can build a cover for it. I hope to do this once the body of off to paint. Update: I got to 500 miles and so far so good. I tried 0-60 times, although not past 4500 rpm and it was a respectable 4.6s. Man what a blast to drive!
Stereo update. I can hear it really well cruising at 70 on the highway, ~2000 rpm.
Registration update. Still have not gotten copy of MCO from FL! I have asked FFR for a new copy. I spoke to someone at the DMV and asked if they could use the one they had on file. Their answer was “we can’t register FFR in Florida”. I about had a heart attack and told them they have to be mistaken! They are asking a supervisor and getting back to me. Holy smokes this is so frustrating!!! Fingers crossed…
You most certainly can register a Factory Five in Florida. Reach out to Henry ("65 Cobra Dude") for info on how to do it legally (not some questionable out of state LLC method).Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
Jeff
First mistake is going to the DMV. Absolute nightmare in FL. You'll want to take it to OATA if you are going to be in the Orlando or Melbourne areas any time soon. You'll be in and out inside of 30 minutes with appointment. Just bring your DL, COO, proof of insurance, receipts and your filled out TL-48. You'll walk out with a plate unless you want something custom. They are even open on weekends and their website is very appointment friendly.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
Quote:
Originally Posted by cv2065
I did that and got my tag, title, insurance and registration.(Went to OATA in Orlando) That's why I am ok driving it.. BUT, FL contacted me several days later and stated that the TL-48 process is not valid for FFR and asked me to return my title and start the TL-41 process. They have my MCO from the TL-48 process, I am trying to get it back/copy for the TL-41 process. That was in the beginning of October and I have been trying to fix it since. Quite the nightmare...
Oh that's right. I remember reading that when you updated. Hopefully you'll get your certificate back!!Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
I just put a piece of visqueen over the fuse box area. It will divert any leakage around fuse box but not stop leaks. It also comes in handy if you have a water leak through the windshield post hole. Instructions now say to seal this area with silicone sealer.Quote:
Originally Posted by dr-sicel
Ralph
I was going to say this depends on which ones you have but decided not to:cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by dr-sicel
Ok I finally have my car registered. I filled out the TL-41 as a kit car. After lots of “discussion” at the DMV I could not do replica or kit car. According to the supervisor FFR is not registered with Florida as a Kit Manufacturer. My only option was ASPT. So they helped me fill out the paperwork, get a waiver for the airbags and we scheduled an inspection. The inspection was pretty basic, but I almost failed! My brake lights would not come on. It turns out that they only come on when the brake is all the way to the floor. I passed inspection and got my sealed package and headed to the tag office. After lots of “discussions” there , they put it through as ASPT. They wanted to do replica or kit and I begged them to leave it alone and they did. So I have an ASPT rebuilt title.Quote:
Originally Posted by cv2065
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I had asked FFR for help and they put me in touch with their expert in FL. He said that he has done many cars and always does ASPT. I asked the supervisor why my title was flagged and he mentioned they are auditing titles going back to 1980! So who knows… hopefully others that have gone through the TL-48 process won’t go through my nightmare.