Thanks! Now I have to fill that hole I made!
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Thanks! Now I have to fill that hole I made!
Today I continued to knock off TODO items. First I installed the trunk struts. I’m not sure if I’m supposed to have two? But I received two with the kit. I used one on the hood and the other in the trunk.
Attachment 220244
I then proceeded to attach the roll bar. It was quite the challenge. First step was to dry fit it. Early on I was able to get it on the mounts, but I could no longer do it. So I used a jack to spread the hoop. I took my time and did it over several passes. Eventually it fit.
Attachment 220245 Attachment 220246 Attachment 220247
Next I installed the bolt-less roll bar kit from 520 SpeedWorks.
https://520speedworks.com/shop/ols/p...ar-kit-15-inch
It went pretty smoothly, but it took some grinding to get the parts to fit. My recommendation is to dry fit it and make sure it’s aligned before trying to install it in the car. The pieces need to be perfectly centered on each tube for it to work when it’s in the car. Hopefully it all lines up again once the body is on!
Attachment 220248 Attachment 220249Attachment 220250
You should have two 20” struts for the hood and two 16” for the trunk .Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
Jeff
Today I tried to change the boots on the ball joints. One already failed. I bought a ball joint removal tool. I was able to remove the uppers, but the lowers were not budging. Is there a different tool I need for these?
Attachment 220415 Attachment 220416 Attachment 220417
Update: I used a bigger hammer and it popped free. I had to jack up the hub to give the fork clearance to work. All boots replaced with Energy Suspension : https://a.co/d/eztbItO
Attachment 220424 Attachment 220425 Attachment 220433 Attachment 220434 Attachment 220435
I am behind where you are on my MK V build but I thought I would post here as a possible help to other builders with Sasquatch feet. I moved the throttle pedal up about 2" and moved it as far to the right as possible. Otherwise when I went for the brake in a hurry I might also be on the gas. Powerbraking can be fun but not in that instance. I had to bend the upper are of the pedal assembly so it would not hit the steering column.
Attachment 220465
Nice. I assume you tried with that inside panel on? It comes in a little bit. I had to bend mine out a little bit to give myself a little room.
Can't tell from your photo but when I build and set up pedals I always place the throttle pedal so that when it and the brake are relaxed it's about 2" forward of the brake pedal. I've had more that a few come in to me in which the builder has set them up so that the brake and throttle are in the same plane and that situation is absolutely dangerous!Quote:
Originally Posted by Aleinsteingenius
Jeff
I am thinking the same way. I plan to adjust the brake so it is proud of the gas pedal but even so I want as much room as I can get for my size 15 feet. I may have to be careful to wear my most narrow shoes.
Today I installed the radio. Hopefully I can hear it at cruising speeds. It was pretty straightforward. I wired a 50 amp circuit in line with my alternator circuit. It was the easiest spot to tap in. I wired the ground in the trunk. The dimensions are in the pictures. I need to finish wrapping it in fabric, but it sounds good. Tomorrow I’m taking it to an AC guy to have it checked/charged.
Attachment 220519 Attachment 220520
Here is a video of the installation.
https://youtube.com/shorts/rh9otDB1s...j8xiN53swiYnWN
So lots of progress the last few days…. I took the car to the shop to have the AC charged/checked. There were no leaks so it looks like I have a bad compressor or bad gauges. Had to run a bunch of errands and everywhere I stopped people took pictures and ask questions. I really enjoyed it.
Attachment 220744
I finished the stereo install and installed the seat heaters. I’m not sure how effective they’ll be without removing a bunch of foam from the seats. I’ll see how it goes and if I have to remove foam, I will in the future.
Attachment 220748 Attachment 220749
I installed Rivet nuts to make the windshield install easier. I plan on doing that tomorrow. We’ll see how it goes. It looks like the windshield wiper motor will be in the way, so I’ll have to remove that.
Attachment 220750 Attachment 220751
I then created brackets to reinforce the dash. I put one by the steering wheel and one in the middle of the dash. The grab handle is reinforcing the passenger side. I used the brackets to install a hide away hinge for the sniper handheld. It’s pretty slick as I can pull it down when I need it but hide it when it’s not in use to keep the analog look of the dash. I picked it up from Etsy. https://www.etsy.com/listing/1467467488/ref=share_ios_native_control
Attachment 220752 Attachment 220753 Attachment 220754 Attachment 220755
Here is a video of it in action: https://youtube.com/shorts/5yNPVlOoL...XTSJH32I7Xe9Cd
Finally after lots of trimming of the trunk aluminum and some fiberglass around the dash I got the body on.
Attachment 220756
I adjusted mine so when it fully depressed it is even with the accelerator. Thats how my M3 is and it’s perfect for heel-toe shifting.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aleinsteingenius
I like the idea of the rivnuts for the windshield! Will add that to my build.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
Interesting, that'll work too...it's opposite of what I did (and what I do for Mk4s) which is to drill & tap the windshield post and keep the oversized chassis holes to allow some adjustment wiggle room. I also switched to socket head screws and used an allen hex socket, extension and ratchet which allowed more room for the tool.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1761589256
As they say; more than one way to skin the cat ;)
Jeff
Attachment 220765
I am a wide 12, and there's no hope of driving with normal shoes. I also know that if I bought narrow driving shoes, I'd never go put them on to have a spur of the moment drive. So my solution? I simply take off my right shoe and tuck it under the driver's seat while driving, and put it back on before I get out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aleinsteingenius
That works!Quote:
Originally Posted by gbranham
Cross posting from another thread on MV batteries….
I uploaded a video of my battery placement for those that are wondering about access. I don’t see a way of getting it out without a bunch of work. Looks like the newer frames do not have those cross bars so you can remove it from below. BTW all that coolant splash you see was the result of a loose hose clamp after my heater hose re-route. Tighten those clamps!!! :)
https://youtube.com/shorts/aWu9vFMqh...vun70zLhOldBWP
Wow as always for everything you post thanks Rick. Im about to do resevoirs and have been putting it off, you have helped a lot. Do you have any pictures from the other side of engine bay or above at an angle to see how far down the frame you went with the attachments. Looks like they may be center or at the very top, hard to tell and i want to recreate what you did. No bracket right? just straight on to the chassis.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
This is how I did reservoirs. The bracket i made is attached with Rivnuts so I can swing it out of the way for engine install. Too soon to tell if this plan is going to work.Attachment 221899Attachment 221900
Straight to the chassis. I’ll be starting the final push on Monday when I get back. I can take closer pictures and post. If I recall that bar is not very tall. You can see from Al’s, not his real name :), that the bar is tilting down. So if you want the brackets in the bar and level start low from the firewall to the nose.Quote:
Originally Posted by UKSNAKE
You may be able to see from this pic that my bracket is pretty level with the car sitting on it's wheels.
Attachment 221956
Right. The bar is not level. So when I went to attach the second bracket in line and parallel to the first I couldn’t because I did not notice or account for the slope. Your picture shows how out of level the bar is. So if you want to attach without a separate bracket and all at the same level you need to account for the slope.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aleinsteingenius
Correct. The reservoirs themselves are not even in that pic because I didn't bother to adjust them for height yet.
Can you tell me more about the OATA on Lee Road? I am in St Augustine and want to get my plan together for when that step comes.
It’s a long story. It worked initially but a week later the State said TL-48 was invalid for FFR and that I have to do TL-41. I am still in the process of getting through it. Unfortunately they have my MCO and I have to go through a process to get it back before I can proceed. It has been a nightmare. Once I finally get it fixed I’ll post an update. It has worked for some people, and it worked for me for as week…
Here is a closer picture of the slant in the bar and the brackets going diagonally.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
Attachment 222121
So I’m back at it. Trying to get the final position of the body. I removed the headers as they were not allowing the body to sit right. I may need to enlarge the cutout on the passenger side. My latest issue is with the door hinges. When tightened they hit the body so they will not open. I had to add washers between them and the frame to clear the body. Is this normal? The body is on with the quickjacks and the body clears the rear bulk head by an 1/8 of an inch. The only way to move it more forward would be to possibly cut the spacers on the rear quickjacks. Should I just use washers?
Following your build with some interest as I've recently started on my own MK5 build. I'm particularly interested if you received a response back from BP on your heater hose issue mentioned in post #290 and #293. I have the same issue on my BP 347. Did the 90 degree heater hose from Amazon work out? When I received my engine from BP I was shocked to see that the AC unit I ordered was not installed. BP was very apologetic and they sent me the complete new front drive (the front drive without AC is different than with AC) unit with all components that included the absent AC compressor that I had to install. I did have to return the replaced components for which they provided the call tags. Not happy with their sloppy oversight, but they did compensate me for the inconvenience. Very much appreciate your work and highlighting some of the issues and solutions that await. Enjoy.
Sorry to hear, but I’m glad they made it right. Check out this post for the hose I used for the water pump. I had to cut it, but it snaked through the tight space that was available.Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa_Jack
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post593672
So I decided to remove the body mounts and see if I could get the body to fit better and have the hinges clear the body. Once I removed them the body came forward and the hinges cleared. I was then able to align the wheel openings with the frame. I secured the body to the frame using screws to make sure it did not move.
Attachment 222315 Attachment 222316
With this alignment the hinges cleared the body on both sides. This also provided better fit for the headers. I had to relocate my header mounts, which was aggravating, but they look much better now.
Attachment 222317 Attachment 222318
I was then able to attach the front mounts without issue. The rear bolt holes align, but the spacers do not fit. I used a scrap piece of wood I had laying around to measure what the spacers need to be. The gap is 3”. The spacers are 3 3/4”.
Attachment 222319
I spoke to FFR and they said I may have received the wrong spacers??? They are going to get back to me. Can someone measure theirs if you have them handy? I don’t think I have a choice, but to cut mine to size.
Awesome. I did miss that entry reading through your posts. Many thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
I am really struggling with the body. After all the adjustments and reinstalling the passenger headers, now the hood is way off and there is not enough adjustment space in the hinges to even get it close. I’m taking it to my painter tomorrow and he has done many FFR roadsters. Hopefully he can help.
Post up what he says about the hood!Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
Higgy
What sort of problems are you having with the hood Rick?
Jeff
It all started with door hinges not clearing the body. So I tried to move the body forward to clear the hinges. I was able to get it all looking good(side pipe, doors, trunk. When I went to re-install the rear mounts the spacers were off by 3/4”. The rear bolts lined up so I figured the body was aligned. When I went to re-adjust the hood, it was off by that 3/4” of an inch after full adjustment of the hinge. So that told me that the rear spacers were correct and something else was wrong. So I slept on it…
This morning I decided to remove the screws holding the body to the frame that I used to move it forward the 3/4”. I forced the spacers back in, all of them fit with a washer, but one. I tightened them, and installed the hood. It fit perfectly. The hinge on the passenger side cleared by 1/16”! The hinge on the driver side will clear if I screw the body down with a little force! I’m calling that a win! The side pipes on the driver side fit perfectly. The passenger side needed a significant amount of cutting on the opening that FFR cut. Probably an inch. But everything is fitting enough, I assume, for my painter. I’m going to see him today to get his opinion. Fingers crossed. After that will be the windshield. I hope that goes well. Thanks for offering help Jeff!
Sounds like you got it! FWIW, I throw those rear internal spacers into the trash on Mk2,3 and 4s. I didn't use them when I did the initial mockup on my Mk5 either (in the end I made hidden mounts for the rear as well as the front). A better indicator of body fore and aft positioning is the roll bar(s) and the near vertical chassis member at the rear of the door opening.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
Jeff
Can you explain your process? What should door opening look like? Thanks!
You want the flange at the rear of the door to be just ahead of the plate where the door striker bolts on. My Mk4 beta chassis is different with a bolt on plate rather than welded on like the production chassis but here's a look anyway:Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1764792995
This is a picture of a Mk4 but you are shooting for similar spacing:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1571711049
Hope that helps you to visualize it.
Jeff
Attachment 222377
Thanks, I’ll verify! I got the thumbs up from the painter. Looks like I’m slotted for mid January! 🤞🏼I test fit the windshield and it is not square. Looks like I’ll have to bend it like in this video.
https://youtu.be/Mb1eHZhwxDM
Here is a video of the body fit…
https://youtube.com/shorts/_jivFZ7gG...g6GpmKbmotvEtG
And another of the first drive and loading it up to take to the painter.
https://youtube.com/shorts/6BXUDqeIM...goVURUY4r-cDqf