CV2065 MKIV Roadster Build Thread #2 - Visors - Heat Shields - Saggy Pipe

And now for a little polish. Gets better with every video. I have now rented my truck and enclosed trailer and will be on my way on Friday March 20th to pick it up. YES!!

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The only thing I have to figure out is if Mike can get the 3" Roush air cleaner to fit under the hood by massaging the cutout. I have the Victor Jr. intake which is giving it a little challenge on the height side. I didn't have to deal with that on the last build as the traditional long Cobra filter fit with the hood down as I had a low profile intake. Had I thought about it earlier I probably would have tried another option and went with a larger hood scoop from Shell Valley Cobra to accommodate for the air cleaner. If this doesn't work then I suppose I can get a drop base air cleaner plate for the Roush air cleaner and/or drop from a 3" filter to a 2.5" or 2.25" depending on what they make for the 15" oval. Or grind down the one that I have. March Performance also has some low options but they are very pricey. I have no desire to change out the engine mounts and the round air cleaners just aren't very sexy.

Either way, we'll get it handled.

Watching those videos made me smile. I can image your grin won't leave your face. Congrats!

Well, the body is back on! Mike and team have been busy getting the hood and trunk lid completed. I even had him do the inside of the hood this time around for that little 'extra'. ;) Rollbar, pipes, quick jacks and windshield are also reinstalled. Pipes will need to be ceramic coated asap upon return! Only the doors and hood left. Although I still have to contend with the coolant leak and air cleaner clearance, we're on our way. Couldn't be happier!

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9 more days until pickup!

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Originally Posted by cv2065

...Had I thought about it earlier I probably would have tried another option and went with a larger hood scoop from Shell Valley Cobra to accommodate for the air cleaner...

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Chad, FYI and for others playing at home, the SV scoop wouldn't have gained you anything. Although it is about 2" taller and has a wider flange it has the same width at it's inside base as the FFR scoop. That's why I use them when I do the shaker style scoops.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1747684843

The car is coming together nicely!

Jeff

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Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner

Chad, FYI and for others playing at home, the SV scoop wouldn't have gained you anything. Although it is about 2" taller and has a wider flange it has the same width at it's inside base as the FFR scoop. That's why I use them when I do the shaker style scoops.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1747684843

The car is coming together nicely!

Jeff

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Thanks Jeff! That shaker style is pretty cool. Good to know on the scoop. I’ll look at a few different options to remedy the clearance. Mike measured it out and said I need about 1.5” so maybe I can do something with the air cleaner base as well as a shorter element. Or I could just hit the easy button with the 14” rounder. I’ve just never been a fan on this car.

I really love the colors you chose and the side stripes (not sure what the correct term is for them). I plan on doing the same scheme but with a shade of blue instead of red. Finding that perfect shade is very difficult as you have documented.

That is one sexy ride. I like how you didn't over think it. Just went with the most bad *** options you could think of.

A few more pictures of the progress. Hood is finally done and is sporting the black chrome button heads. Trunk lid is on and as well as the doors and latches. Need to get a side shot in there! We're almost at the end of the painting adventure!


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This is not my air cleaner but from another car. It's a 12" x 8" cleaner with a 3" total height element. Just touches the top of the hood, so I'll get something similar and trim the base down just a bit to completely clear the hood when latched down. I'll still get my Roush air cleaner powder coated as planned and maybe use it during shows when I happen to have the hood up.

Look at those clouds! ;) That's what I call a mirror finish!

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Very sharp looking colors you have put together there. Nice job.

I knew my color scheme would wear off on you..

But of course you have the more sinister blackout going on...

So only a few more days until you get it back???


Attachment 226633

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Originally Posted by BadAsp427

I knew my color scheme would wear off on you..

But of course you have the more sinister blackout going on...

So only a few more days until you get it back???


Attachment 226633

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Sorry Carl. This one is a little brighter and darker in metallic. But I will always have a soft spot for Carmine Red! Heading up this weekend to bring it all home!

Yo bro!! What did you use for the button heads on the hood? Nice touch and I see they don't go all the way through, I likey!!
Higgy

It looks awesome. I can see the reflection of the clouds in the stripes!

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Originally Posted by Higgybulin

Yo bro!! What did you use for the button heads on the hood? Nice touch and I see they don't go all the way through, I likey!!
Higgy

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Hey Higgy. The button heads are 10-32 x 3/4" black chrome. A little on the pricey side but look cool. Painter cut them to size as needed, drilled and screwed them into the hood. I thought that they went all the way through on the last build. He said they didn't and I don't have any pics to show otherwise, but cosmetically, definitely better this way I think.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Higgybulin

Yo bro!! What did you use for the button heads on the hood? Nice touch and I see they don't go all the way through, I likey!!
Higgy

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by cv2065

Hey Higgy. The button heads are 10-32 x 3/4" black chrome. A little on the pricey side but look cool. Painter cut them to size as needed, drilled and screwed them into the hood. I thought that they went all the way through on the last build. He said they didn't and I don't have any pics to show otherwise, but cosmetically, definitely better this way I think.

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I've done this. They are placed above the underside rib that goes around the hood's perimeter. I just drill and tap the fiberglass for 1/2" long 8-32 button heads. Easy-peasy :)

Jeff

Final walk around and it gets picked up tomorrow. YES!!!

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Road trip is done! I rented a Chevy Silverado 2500 from Enterprise and a 20' enclosed trailer from Neighbors Trailer. Great website to rent any kind of trailer from either a business or an individual. I think they are nationwide. Much better and cost effective when compared to U-Haul. Highly recommended.

Drove about 600 miles each way to pick up the car from Mike at Spotlight Customs. Mike was kind enough to put me and a friend up in his guest house overnight so I didn't have to make the trip in one day like last time, which was a bit insane and extremely exhausting. Mike had 4 other FFRs in his shop, 2 MKIVs and 2 MKVs. First time I had a chance to peek in a completed MKV.

Couple of car pics in Mike's shop.

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The car came out better than I expected. The pictures do not do the metallic stripes laid up against the black justice. Simply incredible. I asked for the dark variant of the Ford Magnetic Metallic and it came out perfectly. The Ferrari red just keeps keep more red out in the sunlight. There is no orange!

So, now kind of the fun stuff.

• Lights - I've got to get the front and rear lights installed. For some reason, although my turn signal lights are working, they are getting a faint glow when the car is on but turn signals not actuated. I'll look again once I get them hooked up as I think I may be getting a ground short somewhere.
• Splash Guards - Fitted and Installed
• Rear Quick Jacks and trim plates
• Rear View Mirror, Wing Wings and Visors
• Side Pipes Ceramic Coated Black
• Black Chrome lock nuts for the Hood Scoop (forgot to get those)
• Install Louvers (Waiting until pipes are back on)
• Trim Air Cleaner Base - Even with a 2" element, the air cleaner just kisses the hood when it's closed. I think if I take off 1/4' off the base, then it might fit perfectly. Just have to check the clearance to the choke.

And of course, clean, clean and more cleaning. Lots of dust from the shop on virtually everything but will enjoy going over every inch again. I'll wait 45 days and I'll have the car wrapped in PPF. Well, I may do just the front half like last time as the place I go to leaves very few seams, but we'll see depending on price.

I did locate the source of my coolant leak, and it was a simple thing. The silicone hoses loosened up quite a bit when the temp went below 40 degrees. It was 34 when I dropped the car off. Tightened them back up and no issues so far. I may look to go back to rubber sometime down the road. Although they look good, not really worth the hassle.

Hoping to be ready by April so that I can get some mileage in before the summer heat hits.

Damn son!!! Looks great, bet your happy to have it back home! Now get to work!
Higgy

It looks great! Congratulations! I am a long way behind you.

Congrats. Looks amazing!

Looks Great Chad....

Wow! Love the colors together they look great. I am a long way off, was going to do deep blue with ghost stripes, now you've got me thinking...

Very nice! Did you happen to see if he started mine?!?!? :)

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Originally Posted by rickster991

Very nice! Did you happen to see if he started mine?!?!? :)

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He had an MKIV that he was doing the body work on when I left. I think yours was parked around the lift area but hadn't got to it yet. I think you might be next? He works on a couple at a time I think.

I re-installed the headlights, tail lights and turn signals. All went as planned as you never know. Sometimes you take this stuff apart and put it all back together and something goes awry. Mike did put my quick jack bolts in backwards, so need to spin those around before the light install as its easier to access. Product of that was scratched quick jacks that I'll need to get powder coated again.

The only caveat is that the headlight trim rings are a little looser than I remember on the last build. Not that they will fall off or anything, as there is a set screw, but I might get some interference in there later down the road like a piece of thick tape, etc. Probably just those little clips that everyone likes so much. Looks great though. Love these smoked LEDs.

Surprised my iphone scored such depth of field in these photos.

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Next was the air cleaner clearance. I removed the scoop and set aside until the paint is completely cured out. I'm going to wax and polish once cured and wanted to get to the full area.

I was hell bent on getting this Roush air cleaner working. I took out the 3" element and replaced with a 2". I also wanted a drop base air cleaner bottom but couldn't really find one in the 15" oval. What I didn't realize was that the Roush air cleaner is already a drop base by a good 1/4" when compared to the other cleaner assembly I had. Combining both, I ended up with 5/16" of clearance between the hood and top of the air cleaner. I think we are good! Edit: As Jeff Kleiner pointed out, when the engine moves, the 5/16" 'may' not be enough so suggested getting some tape under the hood to see if it does mar the surface. I'll get that done asap as the underside of the hood is painted and we don't want to mess up the artwork!

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Now that's worked out, I'll be getting the air cleaner powder coated red to match the car with black lettering. The same will go for the valve covers.

The side trim pieces were next. I had already had them powdercoated a while back and these are a pretty simple install. For some reason I can't find the C Channel molding that came with the kit so I need to order some. In case anyone else needs some, Kleiner gave me the McMaster Carr number of 24175K18. 10 feet ought to easily cover it.

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Really not a fan of fitting these. I had failed to bring them with me when I dropped the car off for paint, as the painter would have installed them, but that's life. So I started on these and although I know I've read a few times that you don't need to trim them, I needed to trim them.

I primed all of my panels with the Rustoleum Ultimate Prime, Turbo nozzle rattle can. Man this stuff sticks to anything and had a 10" fan spray tip. Took no time at all. I then top coated with the Rustoleum Pro Rubberized Undercoat. This stuff went on amazing, dried in 30 minutes, came out silky smooth and should cut down on the noise from road debris.

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The little table is a Black and Decker Work Mate. This is my second one and although they are kind of small, they are really handy in doing just about anything when you need to secure an object for drilling, cutting or painting. Very portable.

Starting with the rears, the passenger side went in perfectly after the 3/4" bulb seal. I tapped four 1/4-20 holes into the 2" and 3/4" tubes and secured. You don't need to remove any rivets that you might have in the tube for the rear trunk wall panels as the panel just conforms around them when you tighten the bolts. I saw someone ask about that before. I had already tapped for a ground to my Lemans cap and didn't want to change it so popped a hole and grommet into the panel and passed the wiring through. Came out nice.

Next up was the driver's side rear and this one I had to trim. It barely fit without bulb seal, so not sure exactly what was going on. Maybe the extra few passes of the undercoater in the wheel wells made a difference. I took off about 1/4" all the way around on the outboard side and it fit perfectly.

One thing to note is the direction of the bulb seal can impact whether the panel fits or doesn't, as it tends to flip flop to one side or the other.

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Regarding the fronts, no matter how much I fiddled with them, I could not get them to fit flush all the way around. They kept hanging up on the bottom. I saw on Paul's 20th Anniversary build thread (the gift that keeps on giving), he had the same issue and cut a piece off the bottom. I did the same as well as adding in 1" bulb seal instead of 3/4", which filled the gaps up on both sides nicely. The number on that is McMaster Carr #1120A191.

I have a small L bracket to attach the splash guard to but haven't installed them yet. I don't think I ever did on the last build and never had issues as the bulb seal seems to keep everything from moving, but we'll see as I'm not going to drill into the body unnecessarily. These are all secured by eight 10-32 screws to the F-panel, so it's not going anywhere.

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On to the license plate wiring. I drilled a 5/8” hole to the right of the hinge. This goes through the metal rib and gives a good anchoring spot for the grommet and ease of passthrough for the wiring. It is also a good location for clean wiring where I zip tied the wiring to the 3/4” tube and ran it up the hinge through the grommet with 1/4” tubing.

After fishing the wire through, I finished off with Permaseal connectors. I always stagger my butt connectors so they easily fit in the corrugated tubing without bulge.

I ordered a cover plate from Frank at ie427, bent to shape over my knee, powder coated and installed with #10 black screws.

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It will be nice when someone creates a sellable cover for this hinge. I'm a buyer!! I'm going to replace those fugly nyloc nuts with some black chrome acorns when I get a chance.

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This is probably one of the best upgrades one can get for this car is the one piece nose aluminum. I bought this some time ago and had it powdercoated. Fitted it and installed. I don't think Michael Everson sells these anymore due to size but if you were lucky enough to get one, they are worth the price of admission for a clean build! They are still on the replicaparts website, so maybe he has some left?

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My short list of odds and ends that need completed.

• Finish License Plate Wiring
• Wind Wings
• Visors
• Install Side Pipes when back from Cerakote
• Radiator Cowl Cover
• Rear and Front Quick Jacks
• Louvers
• Door Panels
• Fender Badging

And then we can graduate!

It's coming along man! Another beauty!
Higgy

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cv2065

... I ended up with 5/16" of clearance between the hood and top of the air cleaner. I think we are good!

...

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I'd be concerned that might not be enough when the engine moves when you're twisting it's tail...especially on the left side. To be safe until you can be sure I suggest that you lay a couple of layers of painters tape on the underside of the hood in the low clearance areas so that it can serve as a witness to show if it contacts and also so that it doesn't mar the paint if it does.

It looks really, really good Chad :cool:

Jeff

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner

I'd be concerned that might not be enough when the engine moves when you're twisting it's tail...especially on the left side. To be safe until you can be sure I suggest that you lay a couple of layers of painters tape on the underside of the hood in the low clearance areas so that it can serve as a witness to show if it contacts and also so that it doesn't mar the paint if it does.

It looks really, really good Chad :cool:

Jeff

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Thanks for that Jeff. I had thought of the engine moving but wasn't sure exactly how much I needed. I'll get that done before getting the air cleaner coated. Thanks!

As one dwindles down the final list of the build. You always run into the forgotten stuff and the list gets longer. One of which is the rear wheel well gap panels that go up against the rear of the cockpit. There is a sizable gap there that could collect quite a bit of debris and/or water and throw it into the cockpit and carpeted area behind the seat. FFR doesn’t provide these panels for the MKIV and need to be fabricated. Hopefully the gap has been addressed in the MKV.

I had an extra splash panel that was already powder coated. I created a cardboard template, fitted, cut the panel to size and riveted in with 3/4” bulb seal. Turned out nice. Looks like I might need to add a little more bedliner to the wheel wells in certain spots to cover some of the red overspray, or is that sanding dust? :p

Template and Completed Panels
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Installed
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Nice work! Build looks awesome.

Final install of the front quick jacks. I cut my tubes down to 4.75" and used a 6" bolt (uncut). Tubes have filler cylinders on the insides to soak up some of the space. Some of my tubes were not completely exact when I cut them so I used washers as needed on the inside of the body mount to level them out. Finished off with black chrome acorn nuts and washers. Looking good!

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Breeze makes a nice radiator cowl cover. I bought one of these for my last build but never installed as I had forgot to tap the screws along the top 3/4" tube during the build and seemed like too much of a hassle afterwards.

I remembered this time and tapped 10-32 screws across the top a while back and had it powder coated to match the rest of the engine bay. I then attached the 3/4" bulb seal and installed. With the hood on, you have to push it up through the nose to install. Not sure how much impact this has on cooling, but seems like it should channel air through the radiator as designed. I thought my radiator protective mesh that stands off the radiator by 1/4" might interfere, but it did not.

Top View with Screws:

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Inside the Nose View:

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Installed the brake and oil cooler screens that I bought from Martin over at Magic Marto. He and John (40 Watt Garage) make a nice stainless steel product. FFR doesn't make a matching oil cooler screen so nice to have all 3 in one package and finishes off the front end nicely. The size of the screen holes are just right and they are fitted to each opening. Of course, had them powdercoated black to match everything else. A couple of things for my install:

• Due to using the 'eyebrows' for the turn signals, the space was a little tight around the opening on one side. I had to trim the passenger side screen a little to accommodate and use pliers to widen out the driver's side a bit so that it fit flush.
• I used silicone to affix the screens as recommended. I applied the silicone first around the opening, then pushed the screen on, then applied more silicone as needed then secured with zip ties and paint sticks until fully cured. You can also use 3M HSRF and studs, but the silicone worked fine and I think you'd see the bolt holding the screen in place, which is not ideal.
• I installed with the wheels on and race ramps. The oil cooler area will need a smaller squeeze tube of silicone as you can't get the gun parallel with the bottom of the opening.

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They are a supporting vendor and you can get them at the below link. I also have the tow bar kit and skid plate. All high quality stuff!

https://www.roadstertowbar.com/produ...ler-screen-kit