Engine - Valve covers + studs vs bolts

Hey y'all,

While waiting for a few parts to continue my build, I wanted to tackle something purely cosmetic, valve covers. When I ordered my 347 from Blueprint I also ordered a pair of "Cobra Powered by Ford" valve covers. These wouldn't clear the rockers so I got some spacers as well from RPC. I kept hearing great things about the Fel-Pro PermaDry gaskets (even these valve covers from Blueprint are using them) so I called Fel-Pro and they recommended using two when going with a spacer and no RTV. I measure my sandwich of valve cover, gasket, spacer, gasket, and it comes out to 2'', add 1/4'' of threading into the block, and 1/8'' of washer and split lock, and I get 2.375'', but I can't find a 1/4''-20 x 2.375'' bolt and I don't want it to be too short or long and not seal properly. I really don't want to deal with oil seepage just for vanity.

Seems that a lot of folks just go the route of double-threaded steel or SS studs and cut to the length they need. Any first-hand experience here with a similar configuration? If so, any tips on how to properly secure the studs (notch the end to use a flat screwdriver, double nut method, just tighten by hand, blue Loctite, anti-seize, etc.)?

I had issues with a leaking valve cover (cork gasket w/bolts), ended up switching to the blue fel pro gaskets with studs and nylock nuts. Has not leaked a drop or loosened up and that was over 4k miles ago. I ended up double nutting the stud to tighten into the head. Seems to be working well, I feel like it is a much better set up than using bolts.

Try searching for set screws instead of studs.

I used studs from the beginning on my current motor, but instead of " STUDS", I used allen headed set screws with nylok nuts.

Since these bolts are not stressed, set screws are Ok, plus, they can be found in many sizes without the need to be cut down. I used thread sealant and bottomed them out into the head.

And I also used "The Right Stuff" RTV to seal the spacer to the head, so that there is only one cork gasket between the VC and the spacer......I also use weatherstrip adhesive to glue the cork gasket to the bottom of the VC.

No problems at all......You will really like studs instead of bolts.

I don't know if it's exactly the same but I went with ARP engine studs around my entire block (heads, intake, valve covers, oil pan) and I think they're great. Each stud has an allen key in the end for installation and removal so there's no "double-nutting" to install them. And all gaskets are held in place perfectly during install.

Totally worth it IMO.

I used studs also. Double nutted to install them into the head. Then I used a standard nut, a star washer under the nut, and a flat washer under that. I am always nervous about how tight to crank the stud into the VC fearing cracking it. So I don't like to use nylock nuts in the application. I guess I could loctite the studs but what I described above works just fine. Like Derald says, "..You will really like studs instead of bolts." W/ your sandwich it will be nice to drop gasket, spacer, gasket, VC on those studs and all are held in perfect alignment. here is a source for studs.
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/studs/
BTW you want more length. You mention 1/4" for threading into the head, I would thread them to the bottom of the hole.

The next size longer bolt, cut it to length

I used the Right Stuff to bond the spacer to the valve cover. Basically this creates a tall valve cover with no chance of a leak at that joint. Makes it easier to adjust the valve lash etc. My spark plug wire looms required new bolts as well the longer bolts for the rest of the holes. Local fastener supply was very helpful.

HTH

Norm

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Originally Posted by Fman

I had issues with a leaking valve cover (cork gasket w/bolts), ended up switching to the blue fel pro gaskets with studs and nylock nuts. Has not leaked a drop or loosened up and that was over 4k miles ago. I ended up double nutting the stud to tighten into the head. Seems to be working well, I feel like it is a much better set up than using bolts.

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Ha! I too had a valve cover leak with the cork gaskets our builder supplied. Went with the blue Fel Pro and perfect. I also like the fact that you can reuse them a time or two.

Looks like mcmaster has a few options for your requirements https://www.mcmaster.com/products/sc...ainless-steel/

Its pretty easy to cut a bolt down too, if you need to find something that home depot carries in stock

Guess I need to learn how to better use their searching tool! I spent some time at McMaster and Grainger and couldn't find them and I was trying to avoid getting longer bolts and cutting them, which could potentially be avoided with studs if the valve cover side didn't stick out too much. After all the comments I think studs are the way to go, plus aligning the sandwich is going to be easier.

Thank you everyone!

Yes MM gave me a strange result too. I searched for studs and it switched to threaded rod. But then I clicked on the first category, medium strength steel, and bingo. I am used to threaded rod in 3ft pieces so who knew that their threaded rod starts at 1 inch long and goes to 12ft? But also notice the tremendous variety of threaded rod and the good descriptions of the differences. Short story. 15 yrs ago I needed a 7/16 bolt about 8 inches long to hang an AC compressor bracket off the front of a 302 Ford engine. No one including MM had them so I looked at threaded rod. Ah, they have a high end steel rod 16" but it will be something like $30-35. Oh well I have to have it so ordered. 2 days later I get a call at work from a truck driver asking where he wants me to leave this long tube he brought to my house. What long tube and how long? It's about 17ft. Uh, front porch will be great. I can't wait to get home and see what this is. Turns out I read the MM description wrong. It was 16 FEET not inches. And it was in a cardboard 3" tube. I was incredulous. 16feet of 7/16 + a tube + shipping for $35? I still have a couple of 3ft pieces of that 7/16 rod.