Daytime running lights Vs clearance lights

After reading through several threads, I am a bit confused as to the distinction between Daytime running lights and clearance lights. I have an 05 donor, and I cannot find a wiring schematic for any Daytime running lights, but they are referenced in the clearance lights section. Do the Daytime running lights have an independent switch or relay that is not a part of the clearance light system?

BTW, my "clearance" lights work front and back, along with the park lights (separate switch and the hazards and signal lights. I'm just not certain if this means that the Daytime running lights also work.

Regards,

Dave

DRL function is where your headlights run at half brightness at all times. To confirm its working turn the key to ignition and check if your headlights are on at half brightness. IMHO the DRLs look dumb and should be deleted by removing the DRL resistor at the B5 connector.

Also, your parking brake needs to be off in order for the DRL's to work.

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Originally Posted by TouchStone

DRL function is where your headlights run at half brightness at all times. To confirm its working turn the key to ignition and check if your headlights are on at half brightness. IMHO the DRLs look dumb and should be deleted by removing the DRL resistor at the B5 connector.

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Given the 818's low profile and therefore low visibility to other drivers, you may want to keep the DRL even if they aren't required. Anything that helps the bozos see you is a good thing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TouchStone

DRL function is where your headlights run at half brightness at all times. To confirm its working turn the key to ignition and check if your headlights are on at half brightness. IMHO the DRLs look dumb and should be deleted by removing the DRL resistor at the B5 connector.

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Now this makes a lot more sense to me. Thanks.

Unfortunately, I cannot seem to get power to the low beam or high beam bulbs at all. All other lights work, and the relays seem to be fine also. I'm quite stumped on this issue. Any ideas?

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Originally Posted by Triathletedave

Now this makes a lot more sense to me. Thanks.

Unfortunately, I cannot seem to get power to the low beam or high beam bulbs at all. All other lights work, and the relays seem to be fine also. I'm quite stumped on this issue. Any ideas?

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Dave
Lets see if you have 12 volt on the red/blue wire out of the main fuse box.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...7&d=1440712510

Sorry, turn the key to the ON position. This gives 12V to the IG (ignition) wires.


Debug work:
1: Verify all connections. Including steering wheel column light switch, ground connections and relays
2: Check for 12V between the frame (Gnd) and headlight wires. (Since the bulbs are off all wires should read 12V)
3: Check bulbs
4: Check fuses
5: Check Relays

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Originally Posted by dirty kurty

Given the 818's low profile and therefore low visibility to other drivers, you may want to keep the DRL even if they aren't required. Anything that helps the bozos see you is a good thing.

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No offence, but if your worried about visibility then turn your headlights on since its brighter than the DRL. This way you can control the goofiness:p. Also its proven that DRLs, like having a 3rd brake light, is ineffective at preventing crashes.

http://www-nrd.nhtsa.dot.gov/Pubs/811029.pdf

Ok, I tested the fuse in position 8 while the ignition and switch was on. I got a 12 volt reading, but still nothing at the bulbs ��

I'm going to try to bench test each relay, but not sure f that is the source of the problem. Is it possible that the lights will not work if there is an issue with the E-brake switch?

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Originally Posted by Triathletedave

Ok, I tested the fuse in position 8 while the ignition and switch was on. I got a 12 volt reading, but still nothing at the bulbs ��

I'm going to try to bench test each relay, but not sure f that is the source of the problem. Is it possible that the lights will not work if there is an issue with the E-brake switch?

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The lights don't care about the E-brake. It sounds like you are missing a ground.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Triathletedave

Ok, I tested the fuse in position 8 while the ignition and switch was on. I got a 12 volt reading, but still nothing at the bulbs ��

I'm going to try to bench test each relay, but not sure f that is the source of the problem. Is it possible that the lights will not work if there is an issue with the E-brake switch?

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Dave,
since you have power of fuse #8 in the main fuse box.
Start following the red/blue wire from the main fuse. It goes straight to the head lights.
Check along the way to see where you lose power.
I high lighted it on the schem. I sent.
Bob

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Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy

Dave,
since you have power of fuse #8 in the main fuse box.
Start following the red/blue wire from the main fuse. It goes straight to the head lights.
Check along the way to see where you lose power.
I high lighted it on the schem. I sent.
Bob

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Bob:
I tested the relays and headlight circuits again. I seem to have power coming into the headlight relay, and the relay works in a bench test, but the relay does NOT seem to work when installed in the main fuse box. How can that be? I also cannot read 12 volts coming into each headlight fuse now (confirming that the relay does not work?). Is there any reason why the relays would both work in a bench test, but not in the fuse box?

BTW, I am using a brand new battery in the car, and most other electrical systems are working.

Dave

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Triathletedave

Bob:
I tested the relays and headlight circuits again. I seem to have power coming into the headlight relay, and the relay works in a bench test, but the relay does NOT seem to work when installed in the main fuse box. How can that be? I also cannot read 12 volts coming into each headlight fuse now (confirming that the relay does not work?). Is there any reason why the relays would both work in a bench test, but not in the fuse box?

BTW, I am using a brand new battery in the car, and most other electrical systems are working.

Dave

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Dave
check the 10 amp fuse# 13 in the tan fuse box. It supplies ignition power to the head light relay.
Bob

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Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy

Dave
check the 10 amp fuse# 13 in the tan fuse box. It supplies ignition power to the head light relay.
Bob

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Sure enough! The 10 amp fuse in position #13 was blown. I replaced it twice, but the new fuse blows as soon as any power is applied. I must have a short, but where should I start looking?

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Originally Posted by Triathletedave

Sure enough! The 10 amp fuse in position #13 was blown. I replaced it twice, but the new fuse blows as soon as any power is applied. I must have a short, but where should I start looking?

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Dave
You need to check what is shorting out that fuse and start disconnecting until the fuse doesn't blow.
It is a red with white stripe.
It goes to the:
head light relays in the main fuse box.
Power to the cluster
Power to the high beam relay
power to the tail light relay
Power to the daytime running light module.

Hope this helps.
Bob

Headlight issue has been resolved. I found a ground wire on the rear lights and accessories section (GB5) that was not attached properly. As soon as I grounded it, I have both low beams and high beams working.

Lesson learned here is to attach every ground wire on the harness, whether you think you need it or not! I almost deleted the accessory wires and ground wire.

Now I need to sort out the tach and fuel gauge. Both were working, but stopped working just recently. I hope the solution to these are a bit easier to identify!

Thanks for the help everyone! I certainly could not do any of this without your help and input!

Regards,

Dave