Simplifying the EJ

[longislandwrx]

Looking at the EJ motor can be intimidating so I wanted to start a thread about what can go in the trash to make the motor easier to work on, and what can be done clean it up quite a bit.

These are just a few of the things I will be doing personally, and is by no means complete and or necessary. I'll just touch on everything briefly and we can discuss any of them in other threads if necessary.



Emissions Equipment

The motor has several fuel emissions componants mounted to the engine. Connected to the turbo inlet/intake manifold/hose that runs to the back of the car is the Evap diaphragm and valving. Its job is to burn fumes that would otherwise escape from the fuel tank. It is used with a charcoal canister at the rear of the vehicle. since the 818 utilizes a different fuel tank and most likely a vented gas cap this entire system is unnecessary and can be removed.

1576715768

remove this, cap off the nipple on the turbo inlet and use a cap to close the tube on the intake manifold (also a easy place to hook up a boost gauge) You will have to turn off evap codes with your tuning software

TGVs! the tumbler valves on the car are bulky restrictive and heavy. People argue that they help with cold starts but really their main purpose is cold start emissions. Removing them saves a ton of weight, and the accompanying motors/wiring/vent tube really cleans up the top of the motor. Its also good for about 8-15hp depending on who you talk to. This is an easy and pretty much free mod anyone can do at home with a drill and a tap, a few bolts and some grinding equipment. It is well documented.

ditch this

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for this

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Air Pump

The 06 and up have an air pump that feeds air to the heads to improve emissions. the system is hideous and heavy at about 10lbs. The who assembly and wiring can be removed. You'll have to remove some codes with your tuning software and purchase some block-off plates $30-$80. But the difference is huge.


Engine Venting

There is a mess of hoses that accomplishes the venting of both heads, and the crankcase. These hoses travel around the engine bay in a series of rubber hose and hard pipes. The problem this presents is that it forces your engine to suck up and try and burn a ton of oil. leading to messy intercoolers, and lower octane ratings. the system also includes a pcv functionality sensor, which is typically bypassed (by closing the circuit in the harness and removing the sensor, and plugging the extra nipples). You can go a step farther and remove the wiring altogether from the harness. Don't remove the PCV itself, just the monitor, it limits the vacuum flow that the crankcase receives. Removing it altogether may cause problems. If doing this mod though its a great time to clean your PCV with solvent so make sure it moves freely.

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As far as what to do with the venting, a good quality catch can or air oil separator should be utilized to capture the oil from the intake system, and in the case of the aos, return it to the crankcase.

a few plastic elbows tees and careful hose routing can really clean up the venting system

not the cleanest aos install, but you can see what is happening here

15772

AC and PS removal

Removing ac and power steering will make a big difference in the front of the motor as to how much room you have, and you'll also be able to remove the wiring from both (not sure if all power steering pumps have a pressure switch. The factory bracket for the alternator and ac is massive, luckily you can use a alternator bracket for the 2.5RS with no factory AC which is a fraction of the size. Subaru P/N: 11711AA051, they are like $25 or less from the dealer . The item is shown in my post cool parts thread as well.

Throttle Body

See my blog post on this one, the factory throttle body has a coolant passage to keep the throttle and IAC from icing up.. many people just remove the hoses from both ends and connect them with a nipple. Pretty sure you can remove these hoses altogether but I will verify. You can go the extra mile and remove the nipples from the TB and even machine the passages all together if you want to really trim it down. Cooler air is always better so running it through a hot throttle body makes little sense.

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Fuel system

the fuel system on the wrx is pretty visually complex when you look at it, it's also run in series meaning certain cylinders run the risk of getting less fuel. Aftermarket fuel rails, while not a necessity until about 400 whp really clean up the look of the fuel system and let you ditch the spider under the manifold. They also eliminate having lean cylinders. Ditching the green brackets of death, designed to protect the injectors in a front end crash, make the injectors a lot easier to get to.

trash these before you lose your fingers

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replace this:

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with something like this:

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I may be missing a few but that's a start.

[Mechie3]

Only your last pic shows up. The others all say invalid attachment. Good idea for a thread though.

[flytosail]

As a novice car guy, thank for posting this. Only suggestion is place it in your blog so that it does not get lost in the fourm.

[Rasmus]

Nice write up Longislandwrx. Get those photos fixed. :D

[Mechie3]

Photos show up on my phone.

[longislandwrx]

Yup Fixed.

[rjh2pd]

Thanks!! there was a post on nasioc about the coolant lines to the throttle body and it shows a decent drop in intake temperature by removing the coolant lines.

[Turboguy]

Great tips, man! All pics are showing up here on my Chrome-equipped machine.

[Rasmus]

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/SubaruParts/IMG_4922_zps58f81e54.jpg
Green Brackets of Death and hardware weight from a 2004 WRX. Whopping 2.130 kg. Yes, I tared out the old sign on which the GBoD sit.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/SubaruParts/IMG_4652.jpg
Unused cruise control throttle cable cam, the coolant passages and brass fitting on the throttle body. Started at 1063 grams.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/SubaruParts/IMG_4664.jpg
Ended up at 930 grams. A savings of 133 grams (0.29 lb).

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/SubaruParts/IMG_4667.jpg
The intake manifold wiring harness. 1059 grams.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/SubaruParts/IMG_4704.jpg
Deleted all TGV, EVAP wires, and PCV detection wires from the harness. I still run the PCV. Reduced to 815 grams. I found an additional 10 grams after the photo. Coppers heavy. I never suspected I'd remove 244 grams from the harness. Additional photo 01 (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/SubaruParts/IMG_4682.jpg), photo 02 (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/SubaruParts/IMG_4683.jpg), and photo 03 (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/SubaruParts/IMG_4684.jpg).

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/SubaruParts/IMG_4620.jpg
The hardware from just one side of the Tumble Generator Valve system weighs in at 311 grams. So for the both that comes to 622 grams (1.37 lb) if you just delete the TGV hardware.

[Rasmus]

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/SubaruParts/IMG_3650.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/SubaruParts/IMG_3651.jpg
EVAP system. Including everything but the hard line that runs over the top of the fuel tank. 4.080 kg!

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/SubaruParts/IMG_3646.jpg
Yes that 4.080 includes the hard line that runs from the engine to the rear.

Altogether this would remove 7.209 kg from the car.

[longislandwrx]

Thanks Rasmus for more awesome pics and specs. I had no idea the gbod were that heavy almost 5 lbs!. I also updated the original post if I was not clear... don't remove the PCV itself, just the monitor. it limits the vacuum flow that the crankcase receives. Removing it may cause problems.

[John Phillips]

This is a wonderful thread, thanks for the massive dose of info we WILL USE. I'm on for delivery next year, and haven't started full-immersion into Subie lore yet. This helps a LOT. Keep it coming, guys, and thanks again. John Phillips

[Mechie3]

Another thing to do is make a new bracket for the alternator. The current driver side bracket shares features with the AC mounting, the passenger side shares features with the PS mounting. You can either minimize the stock brackets, or make new ones, and reduce the clutter.

In stock configuration, the wiring harness runs over the top of the turbo inlet hose. This can be trimmed down and then routed under the inlet to hide it.

[RM1SepEx]

very nice! Just added some dieting and a TGV delete to my action item list... :) Thanks!!!!

[Rasmus]

I had no idea the gbod were that heavy almost 5 lbs! Weird, right? It's disproportionate how weight removal/simplifying goes. I probably spent 4 hours removing that 133 grams from the throttle body, and 20 minutes for the 2.130 kg GBoD.

[Mechie3]

I don't think in Kg and grams. :confused: lol

[Flamshackle]

No one here will worry about it but don't forget that for older motors the idle speed control also ran hot water lines to it. Deleting the water lines and adding thermo spacers makes a good difference in inlet temps.

[Nuul]

You can't do the Columbian math in your head I see. 2.2Kg = 1 pound.

[slopoke]

I could be wrong but .... IIRC 1 kilo = 2.2 pounds ... its been a long time

[rjh2pd]

You can't do the Columbian math in your head I see. 2.2Kg = 1 pound.

lol its 1 kg = 2.2 lbs :p

[Nuul]

I could be wrong but .... IIRC 1 kilo = 2.2 pounds ... its been a long time

No, you're right I wrote it down wrong. Thinking one thing and typing another.

[longislandwrx]

You can't do the Columbian math in your head I see. 2.2Kg = 1 pound.


who cant?

[Mechie3]

Me. :D

[FFR-ADV]

Great Thread! Thanks guys!

[freds]

How about the air pump valves. Be careful...as there is an atmospheric pressure sensor integrated into one of the valves on 07's and some 06's, so removing it will cause an error in the way the car reads atmospheric pressure and as a result it will cause an error in the way it reads manifold relative pressure as well, throwing things off across the board.

I have an 06 donor and it definitely has the integrated pressure sensor, although the NASIOC threads all state "only" 07's + have it (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1209260&page=3&highlight=pump)

[Mechie3]

What is the production date on your 06? I removed everything on my 06 back in the day.

[longislandwrx]

Thanks freds... added the air pump to the original post... My donor is an 05 so I forgot to drop some air pump love on the 06+ers. It wouldn't let me add pictures, Max of 10 per post so here is


PART 2.


Air Pump

The 06 and up have an air pump that feeds air to the heads to improve emissions. the system is hideous and heavy at about 10lbs. The whole assembly and associated wiring can be removed. You'll have to remove some codes with your tuning software and purchase some block-off plates $30-$80. But the difference is huge.

ditch this:

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for these

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Coolant reservoir

The EJ has a coolant fill at the top of the motor since the turbo is higher than the radiator. However, being right on top of the motor it looks sloppy. On the 02-04s it's more prevalent than the 05+ but it still gets in the way on all models.
This is easily relocated to the firewall or other discrete location (as long as its higher than the turbo) If you replace your turbo with a non water cooled variant, you can remove this fill altogether (although this doesn't apply to most aftermarket turbos.) We'll have to see how the coolant routes on the 818 before finalizing the coolant routing. My thought is they will use this reservoir mounted high as a fill/burp for the coolant system.

relocated:

15796


EGT Probe

Many WRXs came with a catted up-pipe. removing this cat is a great upgrade making both power and decreasing spool time. In order to keep tabs of this cat, Subaru installed an EGT probe in the uppipe to make sure the cat doesn't overheat. This probe is useless one the cat is removed but just removing it will cause you to throw a code. two options, use your tuning software to delete the codes or remove the probe from its wiring harness, and insert a 2.2 K Ohm resistor, available at any radio shack. There are only two pins in the plug, so just insert one end of the resistor into each lead of the plug. Wrap up the end with electrical tape to make sure your resistor doesn't fall out. You can also pull the wiring all the way back to the harness and save even more weight.

here's the dead weight
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Shame on me for not putting placeholder posts in.

[freds]

What is the production date on your 06? I removed everything on my 06 back in the day.

I don't know, I only have the VIN to go on and that confirms it is an 06 WRX and not the door plate. The production sequence # is "5092xx" if that helps anyone to find a closer mnfg. date.

[freds]

I don't know, I only have the VIN to go on and that confirms it is an 06 WRX, and not the door plate. The production sequence # is "5092xx" if that helps anyone to find a closer mnfg. date.

Here are pics of the LH valve and connector on my 06, also I chose to tap the "air holes" and bolt-with-washer seal the holes. The Cosworth plates do look nice though Longisland.

The RH (which is already removed) "valve has the standard two pin connector.

I haven't decided where to mount or remount the valve yet. Or whether to cut the top with the connector and sensor off the valve and locate it somewhere convenient.

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[Mechie3]

Cut the top. :D

[freds]

Now that I'm "into it" I realize the massive value of this thread for anyone previously unfamiliar with WRXs. (like me!)

Thanks again.

fred

[THE ITALIAN]

Good informative Thread here, BUT this all depends on your state emission regulations & if you are building an S or R for track, does it not ?

Don't get me wrong here , Carbon Global warming & carbon emissions are Phony gov stuff(especially where I am from), but rules are rules, and if some guy pulls all this off w/o looking up regulations he's in trouble

[C.Plavan]

Great Thread! Thank you!

[shinn497]

The question then is, for people who live in states with restrictive emissions laws, how much of this would be legal?

[slopoke]

Threads like this ... ( THANK YOU LIWRX!! ) should receive "Sticky" status. Great stuff!!

[walt555]

I noticed some of those grams saved on the throttle body are from porting!

[C.Plavan]

How about some acronym explanations for us EJ Turbo Noobs.

ie BOV (Blow Off Valve) etc.

There are a lot of acronyms being throw around in threads, I feel like I'm trying to guess stuff on Wheel of Fortune.

[itsymbal]

remove this, cap off the nipple on the turbo inlet and use a cap to close the tube on the intake manifold (also a easy place to hook up a boost gauge) You will have to turn off evap codes with your tuning software



Is there a tuning software that you found works well?
Also - cap to close the tube on intake manifold - do you put a small hose clamp on the hose and pinch it shut or is there an actual cap you can get someplace?

Thanks

[Mechie3]

Cobb Tuning makes the Access Port and Race Tuner software. Expensive (relatively) but works well. There is also open source and romraider that requires a tactrix cable (~$100) and a laptop.

They make vacuum port caps. It's a vinyl closed end cap. Stick it on and zip tie it in place.

[longislandwrx]

Slight Correction...

access tuner race is FREE for personal use if you own an Accessport (expensive). just fill out the form.

http://www.cobbtuning.com/accesstuner-race-request-s/70716.htm

[tmoretta]

Where is the PCV monitor? I have yet to find it on my '02 WRX motor. Also, I am thinking I can remove one or more of the rubber lines that go back to the fuel tank or canister. The tank only requires one pressurized line forward, and a return, right?

[tmoretta]

I just cut off all the unnecessary aluminum from the altern. bracket. Looks much neater and saves some weight.

[itsymbal]

Good to know - found the link http://www.romraider.com/
Also found the vacuum port caps - lots of them on ebay.

[longislandwrx]

Where is the PCV monitor? I have yet to find it on my '02 WRX motor. Also, I am thinking I can remove one or more of the rubber lines that go back to the fuel tank or canister. The tank only requires one pressurized line forward, and a return, right?

no PCV monitor on the 02 The lines to the charcoal canister can all be removed as well as the solenoid but you will need to suppress codes if you don't want a CEL.

[tmoretta]

Thanks for all the info. I do have some questions/concerns: according to the assembly manual - the 818 uses a supplied vent on top of the fuel tank that FFR wants attached to the charcoal can. Can this vent simply be attached to the vacuum port (third down from engine fuel lines) allowing the canister to be eliminated? Isn't the right side engine "green" bracket needed to mount the black plastic coolant fill tank?

[wallace18]

Thanks for all the info. I do have some questions/concerns: according to the assembly manual - the 818 uses a supplied vent on top of the fuel tank that FFR wants attached to the charcoal can. Can this vent simply be attached to the vacuum port (third down from engine fuel lines) allowing the canister to be eliminated? Isn't the right side engine "green" bracket needed to mount the black plastic coolant fill tank?

Do not hook the tank vent to a vauum source unless it is controlled by the ECU through a carbon canister. You will collapse the tank. It is really up to the builder where to mount the coolant tank. You don't need the lower bracket look at the other build threads.

[Mechie3]

I mounted my tank on my WRX on the shock tower using just the two through holes. Lasted 2 years without any issues.

[StatGSR]

Thanks for all the info. I do have some questions/concerns: according to the assembly manual - the 818 uses a supplied vent on top of the fuel tank that FFR wants attached to the charcoal can. Can this vent simply be attached to the vacuum port (third down from engine fuel lines) allowing the canister to be eliminated?

As wallace said above, do not hook that to engine vacuum. the charcoal can exists to capture the vapors that are created in the gas tank and deliver them to the engine (using a solenoid) to be burnt because it is cleaner to burn the vapor than it is to just let it escape. prior to this gas tanks were just vented to atmosphere.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/evaporative-emission-control-system.htm

[tmoretta]

What is the little gizmo just behind the evaporator diaphragm and bolted to the manifold? It has a two wire electr. connector and two vac. hoses.

[Mechie3]

Its all part of the same evap system. I pulled mine all off and plugged the manifold. You'll need to disable the codes in the ecu.

[tmoretta]

It couldn't be the knock sensor right?

[JeromeS13]

It couldn't be the knock sensor right?

The knock sensor is bolted to the block, on top of the #4 cylinder.

[tmoretta]

Thanks so much for your quick and astute reply.

[indiana818]

thanks for all of the great info. i have a question, can i do away with the pipe feeding the heater on top of the engine going down to the intake on the bottom of the motor i dont see a use for this am i wrong?

[Mechie3]

Are you talking about the aluminum and steel lines underneath the intake manifold? Loop these together. Plugging these lines causes the head to overheat.

[Scargo]

The question then is, for people who live in states with restrictive emissions laws, how much of this would be legal?
I am building an R so I could care less about the laws, but this subject has not been discussed at all! Surely there are some ramifications to removing some of the emissions devices in some states. I think that if a car is inspected when the engine is fully warmed up that removing TGVs, etc will not cause it to fail.
Who's been through the street legal process with a kit?

[wleehendrick]

Who's been through the street legal process with a kit?

Every state's different, so you need to see what's required. The registration thread has a link to info on every state.

I haven't been through it before, but I've done my research. In CA, 500 kit cars per year are allowed to be registered under SB100, which allows them to have emissions requirements set by the apparent model year of the replica body. So, a roadster gets 1965; a hot-rod, 1933 (free pass!). In the case of no resemblance (like the GTM or 818), model year 1960 is assigned. So, the only requirement I'll need to meet is a sealed crankcase and PCV. This is huge for me, since in CA for a typical smog inspection, not only do you have to pass a tailpipe sniff, but a visual inspection as well. Meaning any removed/modified component without a CARB exemption means a fail and you can't register :(. I'm removing the air-pump and evap system, but will keep the cat in place and add a small charcoal canister.

[stevec5ws6]

Wow, some incredibly awesome information here.

I am rebuilding My fiance's wrx motor, and TVG deletes etc are common on standard WRX's.. heck the Japanese motors don't come with them period.

The EVAP system removal is awesome I have a wrx that will either be becoming an 818 or a rally car, either way, so much needs simplified on that motor, very over complicated.

awesome thread thanks for taking the time to post this!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

To do TVG deletes on my 2.5L 2004 turbo engine. Can I just use the intake off my 2.5L 2006 NA engine?

[StatGSR]

To do TVG deletes on my 2.5L 2004 turbo engine. Can I just use the intake off my 2.5L 2006 NA engine?

No, while there is a possibility that it could physically work, that IM was not intended for that amount of air flow and it will most certainly move/relocate the location of the TB.

[Scargo]

Is this it?
24109
Mine is off an NA RS and can, with a little work, flow about as well as a Cosworth.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Is this it?
24109
Mine is off an NA RS and can, with a little work, flow about as well as a Cosworth.

this is the IM on my 06 NA wagon. The runners look pretty big to me.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24171&d=1381507390

[Mechie3]

People often use the 05 NA intake as one of the best flowing manifolds Subaru has made. It gives more low end and has a bigger plenum. People that use it generally switch to a FMIC since the TMIC doesn't line up IIRC. I don't remember if the fuel rail/injector seats are the same.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

People often use the 05 NA intake as one of the best flowing manifolds Subaru has made. It gives more low end and has a bigger plenum. People that use it generally switch to a FMIC since the TMIC doesn't line up IIRC. I don't remember if the fuel rail/injector seats are the same.
Hi Craig,
The NA intake looks like it would not fit a TMIC in the Impreza. I believe here is more room in this area of the 818.
Can I use the fuel injector of the NA engine, or are the turbo injectors bigger?
Bob

[Mechie3]

Use the turbo injectors. The NA injectors are smaller.

Check out this. Lots of good info and some pics.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2313431

Flow Data:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2229576



One thing I just noticed in the first thread. The fittings are all 1/8" BSPT not NPT! Probably explains my idles problems as I have 2 spots plugged with NPT plugs.

[longislandwrx]

good thing you have some left over epoxy from the steering rack. a nice tight fit. :)

[apexanimal]

I want to say as well, that the mods needed to make it fit a turbo engine were more than I was willing to do...

I'll try to find the nasioc thread that details what is needed...

[longislandwrx]

Zach is running an NA manifold, not this exact one though. Check his build thread.

He would probably know.

[apexanimal]

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=36451113&postcount=14

This is the most concise info I could find

[Harley818]

This is an awesome thread. Thanks for starting it longislandwrx and all you who contributed. Its great for someone new to Subaru.

I'm well on the way to deleting all the unnecessary items from my 02 donor, but have a question about the fuel system deletes.
What do we need to retain for the fuel system?
Obviously the fuel pump, fuel pump relay and controller, and lines to the tank, but what about the following:
fuel pressure sensor?
Pressure control solonoid valve?
Drain valve?
They are all on my electrical diagram and I'm dieting it now.
just want to know what I need to keep.

Also one last question about the water cooling lines. Mechie3 mentioned we should be careful when deleting the lines to the throttle body and other lines.... that is can cause the heads to overheat. What is the best routing to keep if we plug off the throttle body?

Thanks
Harley

[Mechie3]

Throttle body can be blocked off with no issue. Irs the large lines that go to the beater core that need to be looped together. None of the valves you mentioned are retained.

[Scargo]

In my post #75 (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12205-FFRSpec72-818R-Build-Seattle-WA&p=143685&viewfull=1#post143685)on (FFRSpec72 818R Build Seattle WA (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12205-FFRSpec72-818R-Build-Seattle-WA/page2)) I mentioned getting rid of the oil heater and those water lines.

[Rasmus]

David H. just moved this thread out of the "General" section to here "Engine and Transmission." Thanks, man.

[longislandwrx]

Does anyone have a good source for BSPT aluminum plugs?

I'm tired of re-tapping.

[FFRSpec72]

I just cut off all the unnecessary aluminum from the altern. bracket. Looks much neater and saves some weight.

Have a picture as it sure looks clunky with the PS and AC removed now, looking for a way to clean up that space

[longislandwrx]

the RS bracket I posted earlier works and is strong enough to use as a lift point.

[FFRSpec72]

the RS bracket I posted earlier works and is strong enough to use as a lift point.

I assume it will work on a EJ207? as I used the existing bracket as a lift point to put the engine on the stand

[Rasmus]

Does anyone have a good source for BSPT aluminum plugs?

I've been looking for a source of M28x1.5 and M18x1.5 aluminum plugs to replace some of the steel water jacket and oil galley access plugs on the block. Found a M18x1.5 one out of Australia for $20AUS (~$18.50 USD) for just one. Probably be cheaper just to have them custom CNC'd.

[longislandwrx]

I've been looking for a source of M28x1.5 and M18x1.5 aluminum plugs to replace some of the steel water jacket and oil galley access plugs on the block. Found a M18x1.5 one out of Australia for $20AUS (~$18.50 USD) for just one. Probably be cheaper just to have them custom CNC'd.

yeah, seems like something that you think would be easy to find is scarce around these here parts.


I assume it will work on a EJ207? as I used the existing bracket as a lift point to put the engine on the stand

yes it should work.

[Pearldrummer7]

Like many have said before- great thread! Thanks for this information.

[dougkirkbride]

TGVs! the tumbler valves on the car are bulky restrictive and heavy. People argue that they help with cold starts but really their main purpose is cold start emissions. Removing them saves a ton of weight, and the accompanying motors/wiring/vent tube really cleans up the top of the motor. Its also good for about 8-15hp depending on who you talk to. This is an easy and pretty much free mod anyone can do at home with a drill and a tap, a few bolts and some grinding equipment. It is well documented.

initially i wasnt going to do this till later but my 06 wrx has the air pump and what a monster it is, not even sure where i would put it, so while engine is out and everything is easy to get to i mis well reomove it and purchase the delete plates. the only issue is my donar is strickly stock and i want to be able to turn the key and have it start when i get there someday. does anyone know if there would be an issue with this. i dont have an ability to tune out any codes (at least not yet) i am only going to run this car in warm weather so i dont car about cold starts. i guess i can always tune that out later but for know i want to just remove and still be able to start it when that day comes. has anyone done this?

also, if anyone knows a good website for the blockoff plates please post.

also, i read about grinding off bollts in order to remove, i dont quite understand which ones they are talking about.
any help is appreciated.
thanks,
doug

[Scargo]

This is a pretty good guide to modifying TGVs (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1741045), though there may be ten more... If you don't grind off the back of the screws they will likely break off when you attempt to unscrew them, or you can just start by drilling out the screw.
I used a hacksaw to rough cut the partition out of the throat. In addition, I used JB Weld to fill the holes after I cleaned the parts and roughed up the holes with a Dremel burr. I also took my TGVs to the bandsaw and cleaned up the sides.

You do not need block-off plates if you are comfortable tapping a hole or can get someone to do it for you. A slightly larger drill than the current hole size is all that is needed to prep those holes in the heads for a 1/4" pipe tap.
If you have concerns about drilling and tapping an assembled engine, or that resultant chips might hurt the turbine, let me explain my method. You will need tweezers, hemostats or the like. Now stuff a bit of rag down the hole deep enough that the drill bit will not catch it (about an inch). Now open up the hole with a 7/16" drill bit. Tap deep enough that the plug will be flush. I use female, hex drive plugs. I suggest a good quality tap. So many from chain hardware stores are crap. If you do not have a tap wrench you can usually make do with a socket. I like to use a drill so there is less wobble involved in the tapping process. Since this is a tapered tapped hole this is not a huge concern. Use a light grease and you will remove most of the chips when you back out the tap.
Now, clean out the hole with Q-tips, brush or low pressure air and pull out the rag.
Viola! No need for a plate, gasket and bolts.

[dougkirkbride]

thanks for the info and link scargo.

some things look different in this one, maybe its another year model or some other thing or who knows what i think are tgv's might be something else..
i am trying to get rid of this air pump:

29903

i figured these are the tgv's the other is right behind this one and neither one is bolted directly to the motor:
29904


the block-off plates i figured would cover the holes where this pipe would be removed:
29905

it appears that everything could be removed easily then i would just need to cap the holes, is this the tgv system?

[waruaki]

Nope. Read the link below and look at the picture provided. Its a TGV assembly from a 2004-06. You can look at my build for more pictures.

If you decide to do a delete on your TGV assembly the link to the guide that Scargo provided is a good one.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1663677

29911

[Scargo]

thanks for the info and link scargo.

some things look different in this one, maybe its another year model or some other thing or who knows what i think are tgv's might be something else..
i am trying to get rid of this air pump:...
it appears that everything could be removed easily then i would just need to cap the holes, is this the tgv system?
That is the air pump system. It is independent of the TGVs. TGV is as Waruaki has showed you. Note that if you are retaining the stock ECU, and not doing any retuning, that you need to retain the air pump sensor on the driver's side connection. You can pare it down and lose some of the bulk, but you need that sensor in the loop to not cause a fault/code.

[dougkirkbride]

ok wow..... i am out in left field. thanks for shedding some light.
i guess i should have started with air pump delete. any issues with removing the pump and 2 valves and installing the air pump delete block off valves such as these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/171342911257?lpid=82

scargo-- any way you can provide a little more definition on the drivers side sensor?

thanks.

[Scargo]

I know I'm pushy, but those plates are really too pretty for something that is virtually never seen. $55 for them VS $7 for SS plugs (http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/100452/10002/-1?parentProductId=752570)?
As to the sensor it is a barometric pressure sensor. It is covered in-depth if you Google it. (https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=sensor+%22air+pump%22+delete+removal&safe=off)
You can lose the sensor if you put about a 194K resistor in it's place, between red with yellow stripe wire and the ground wire (black with blue stripe or white). I did this and pared it down (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=29588444&postcount=275) and taped it off on the harness.

[Harley818]

just re-read this thread again to make sure i got all the mods sorted out.
Its a great thread for us non-subie guys.
Looks like I'm good to go but this was wayyyy down in the threads. Thought I would bump it up a bit.
This one should be a sticky.

[Hindsight]

Regarding air pump delete, and any other items that may throw a code: My understanding from someone very reputable is that any fault code can be tuned out of the ECU via Access Port or the open-source equivalent. This will prevent a CEL.

[CanadianYank]

I booked marked this thread thanks for the information. I see the thread is over a year old I'm glad it made its way back up to the top...

Frank

[nkw8181]

I booked marked this thread thanks for the information. I see the thread is over a year old I'm glad it made its way back up to the top...

Frank

Me Too Me too!

Just got the air pump stuff off. Not fun since I didn't take much of anything else off but got it!!

[longislandwrx]

This was posted elsewhere iirc, If you don't need the bling and don't want to spent $70

Factory Tribeca block off plates will work, you'll need two and will need to enlarge one of the holes.

Part# 14754AA050

Retail $3.70


see thread:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2371781

or something in the middle:

http://www.kstech.biz/servlet/the-213/air-pump-delete-block/Detail

[Rasmus]

This was posted elsewhere iirc, If you don't need the bling and don't want to spent $70

Factory Tribeca block off plates will work, you'll need two and will need to enlarge one of the holes.

Part# 14754AA050

Retail $3.70
Brilliant! Need me two. Thanks LongIsland.

[FlatironsTuning]

We usually keep one or two of those plates on hand if anyone needs them. Here they are on our site:

http://www.flatironstuning.com/p-2455-egr-valve-plate.aspx

[Hindsight]

I lucked out and my donor came with the Cosworth blockoff plates. I hear that they are good for an extra 25WHP :rolleyes:

[Rasmus]

Only if you apply the sticker on your doors.

[Goldwing]

Nice find! I'll add that to my winter work shopping list!

[Turn In Concepts]

Regarding air pump delete, and any other items that may throw a code: My understanding from someone very reputable is that any fault code can be tuned out of the ECU via Access Port or the open-source equivalent. This will prevent a CEL.


IMPORTANT NOTE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If you do an air pump delete you MUST retain the sensor with the larger connector. It is not enough to just turn off codes. It contains a barometric pressure sensor that must be used for the ECU to properly adjust boost. Leaving it off is a common mistake with amateur shops (we have done 4 tunes in the last two weeks where other shops did not reuse this part and the part costs ~$250). You can cut the black sensor off the top of the metal cylinder and hide it out of the way though.

Tony

[Mechie3]

^^ That's only for 07, correct, not 06?

[Turn In Concepts]

07+ engines.

[Scargo]

This is it, stripped down. Heavy little sucker!
34655
Can I remove the heavy metal portion, too? I saw where one was bandsawed through the metal just in front of the plastic.
Another person dismembering one. (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=30246543&postcount=291) The post after suggests that you can just cut the plastic where it joins the metal.

[Turn In Concepts]

Yep. , All you need is the plastic bit at the top.

Tony

[Hobby Racer]

^^ That's only for 07, correct, not 06?

This appears to be on 06 models as well. My 06 WRX donor has the sensor in the LH (driver side) valve solenoid. The give away is the larger 6 pin connector on the solenoid valve. The RH side has only two pins.

[C.Plavan]

I don't remember seeing it on my 06 WRX
http://i.imgur.com/pZQD5Et.jpg

[matteo92065]

My 06 WRX motor has the sensor.

[Mechie3]

It has it, I don't believe that it uses it. I deleted the entire thing on my 06 in 2007 and never had issues.

[Rasmus]

Yep. , All you need is the plastic bit at the top.
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj219/johnsmm/DSC01653.jpg
Looks like this once you cut it off.

[Scargo]

I'm still nervous about this surgery. Once you cut the wanger off it can't be put back on...
Looks like you cut to within a quarter inch of the plastic and then slit the metal. I am reluctant to cut into the plastic because I thought I saw a diaphragm in one picture. It looked very close to the edge of the plastic.
Does the ECU need to read atmospheric pressure? Does it help if it still functions? And what are all the GD wires for in the metal chunk?

Follow up note: I pared mine down to just plastic as others have done. I discussed this with my tuner regarding my STi and it is needed for a reference for the ECU as to what the barometric pressure is. Perhaps for older ECU's this is not the case, but for '07+ STi's, it is needed. I think that it might refine idle or low-speed tuning adjustments, but my tuner wanted it on the car even though I was tuned with Speed Density and to 381 WHP.

[Rasmus]

http://i.imgur.com/cuDDDZZ.jpg
Here's what it looked like before.

http://i.imgur.com/i6pcQBA.jpg
Closer

http://i.imgur.com/q1o5or9.jpg
After I cut it off.

http://i.imgur.com/FoGZw39.jpg
Different Angle. I just kept my coping saw as close to the aluminum lip as possible and it came off clean. Sanded the rough plastic off and it looks fine. Not sure if it works though :D . Weighs 22 grams, btw.

Apparently, because I'm running a 2006 WRX ECU, I don't need this atmospheric pressure sensor. The 2006 ECU gets the data from something else. I don't know what that is. To be sure, I'm keeping all the parts and will be sure to log atmospheric pressure data when tuning driving up 1000 ft.

[nkw8181]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I believe this is the "purge control solenoid" and can be deleted along with purge valve??

[Scargo]

Correct, unless there might be an emissions standard you must meet for how fuel tank vapors are vented. If you will not be running a vapor canister then you can ditch it and all the related vacuum hoses and plug the tap in the manifold or use it for a vacuum gauge.

[nkw8181]

Ok that sounds good. Anyone have some good docs on what all nipples can be plugged? The manual can be convoluted to figure out.

[Harley818]

bumping for the new guys who are new to subaru.
This was extremely helpful for me.

[Chef818]

Can someone who has simplified their EJ207 VER 7, chime in in what they did?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Can someone who has simplified their EJ207 VER 7, chime in in what they did?

I don't know if the engine matters what you delete.
On my 04 Ej255 out of forester XT.
Delete power steering
Delete air conditioning
Delete belt tensioner
Delete evap system
Delete TGV butterflies
When I added the dry sump system, I deleted the PVC system and the breather pipes.
brake booster vacuum port plugged.

Some delete the water heating to the throttle body. I did not.

Bob

[redfogo]

Can someone who has simplified their EJ207 VER 7, chime in in what they did?

Ej207 v7 owner here you can see everything I deleted in my wiring thread. Hope that helps. All evap,emissions, and a/c deleted. Not much else left to delete on the ej207.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?21030-DIY-ODBII-working-standalone-wiring-harness

[TouchStone]

My engine shop deleted the OEM oil heater/cooler.

[Harley818]

I deleted most of the items listed in this thread...
zerodeletes - TGV deletes
water heat to the throttle body
eliminated emission control stuff (no airpump on my 02)
little green tubes of death...
PS
AC
added two catch cans - one for each circuit
kept the stock fuel distribution, but probably will change in the future to equal length distribution lines.

[Clyde's Keeper]

This thread needs to be a sticky? It would be great if it didn't get lost in the shuffle.

[AZPete]

I'm bringing this valuable thread back up to the top. It should be a sticky for new 818 builders who don't eat & breath Subaru engines.

[Kiwi Dave]

I agree Pete - one of the most helpful 818 threads for sure! Sticky vote here too!

Since I am not signing up for engine rebuilding I have had my 2007 EJ255 engine upgraded by AndrewTech, arguably one of the finest Subaru shops. I haven't started a build thread yet, so let me pass on their sage advice that is not already very clear in this excellent thread (thanks LongIslandWRX!).

AndrewTech view an AOS or catch can setup as necessary for this engine. I went AOS as it requires less maintenance than catch cans, but they are equally effective.

The air pump system and TGVs need to go as they do very little in reality - easy Rasmus weight saving targets! As for the issue up there ^^^ and elsewhere of whether 06/07 air pump divers side pressure sensor needs to stay attached, AndrewTech said "no". I have an Accessport and, with all these deletes, you'll need one or another code delete solution in a state that uses the OBD2 for emissions testing (they do in MD).

AndrewTech said if I was driving the car in the winter in the DC area to keep the throttle body heat (AZPete can delete!). They also said to consider a lower opening temperature thermostat, but I will go OEM for now and swap out if needed since I am not planning on any serious racing and I've read that it can cause the engine never to get to optimum operating temp with street use. If you are building an R, that seems like a good mod to have.

I'll also be deleting the ugly header heat shields, wrapping them in titanium lava fiber, and seal with silicone spray. Better looking for sure. I'll also add the ZDM turbo heat shield.

Cheers

Dave

[wirenut]

Agree. Please make this a sticky.

[lsfourwheeler]

Definitely some great info on here, I hadn't seen this thread before. The only thing I think should be mentioned as something to consider avoiding is that deleting the Evap stuff can cause a gas fumes issue in the cabin. A few people on this forum have had experience with this, so it's probably a good idea for most to keep the fuel evap solenoid and the charcoal canister (or similar setup) on their cars.

Ditto for the coolant lines to the throttle body in some cases, but I doubt most 818 owners drive in below freezing temperatures.

[Brd.Prey]

Great info, thanks

[Sgt.Gator]

I use the former throttle body coolant hoses to feed coolant to my Tial MVR BOV. For street it's not needed but for road racing Tial strongly advises to use the coolant connections. The TB coolant hoses are perfect for that application. You just have to make the -4AN connections to the MVR.

[Mechie3]

I deleted the TB coolant hoses on my WRX when I drove it year round in Upstate NY. Never experienced any issues.

[20boxer]

ill bring this one back from the dead. I would always keep that EGT probe in the up pipe. Its a very useful piece of info, and the sensor isn't very big. EGT is the poor mans AFR. Just from a tuning standpoint, that is always a PID when I have my tuning software open.

[Scargo]

Would like to expand on the EGT thought. I have one*... on #4, four or so inches from the head. #4, which is supposed to run hotter (unless you've done Dom's cooling mod") and/or because some say it runs leaner (with stock fuel lines?).

I've read that this location is ideal as it's a closer reflection of the hottest temperature that could be dangerous, though assumptions or allowances could be made. That, and you "should" have one for every cylinder...
I typically run below 1,650°F there though I haven't started data logging it yet. However, in my last outing I think I saw 1,720 momentarily. I don't see that this has hurt me (yet). Might melt cheap headers but mine are modified Full Race (Schedule 40, 316 SS) and go into 321SS up pipes.
Thoughts?

* Omega, high-temperature 1/8" probe with sheathed high temp wire

[20boxer]

Would like to expand on the EGT thought. I have one*... on #4, four or so inches from the head. #4, which is supposed to run hotter (unless you've done Dom's cooling mod") and/or because some say it runs leaner (with stock fuel lines?).

I've read that this location is ideal as it's a closer reflection of the hottest temperature that could be dangerous, though assumptions or allowances could be made. That, and you "should" have one for every cylinder...
I typically run below 1,650°F there though I haven't started data logging it yet. However, in my last outing I think I saw 1,720 momentarily. I don't see that this has hurt me (yet). Might melt cheap headers but mine are modified Full Race (Schedule 40, 316 SS) and go into 321SS up pipes.
Thoughts?

* Omega, high-temperature 1/8" probe with sheathed high temp wire

One per cylinder is ideal, and the closer the better for sure. 1720 is hot, but not unheard of. I read in an old tuning book about not wrapping headers, or as the author suggested to leave 1-2" off the flange, to allow the heat to get off the pipe and heads. Having one in the up pipe certainly isn't the best place, but I bet not many people have EGT probes in their headers. I always liked the fact Subaru had one there

[longislandwrx]

Just going to bump this a little as i've started paring down my engine.


a few things i am doing that i didnt add to the original post was deleting the oil cooler/warmer which requires 3 subaru parts

21111AA250 the 2008+ WRX waterpump which has the 2 nipples instead of 3 or 21111AA065 which is more expensive but has a cast impeller
15018AA050 the oil filter union
11021AA121 the block plug to remove the one with the hose (use your handy transmission drain t70 to tighten)

this gets rid of the crusty pipe on the front of your block and probably about a half a pound.

130346



a short oil fill neck

zero DB motorsports/killer b/alluminati/torque solutions all make them and they make the top of the engine just a little cleaner

I prefer the ones that use a stock composite cap because man those caps can get hot!

130347


Single belt pulley

Tom over at kartboy makes a single belt pulley, which gives you about an extra inch of clearance in the front of the engine. hopefully i can get him to engrave something stupid on it.

130352

I'll post some more to my build thread as I start buttoning it all back up.

Jeff

[Pearldrummer7]

ooo, the single belt pulley is really nice, probably a good bit lighter, too. Is harmonic balance a concern with such a light pulley?

[longislandwrx]

ooo, the single belt pulley is really nice, probably a good bit lighter, too. Is harmonic balance a concern with such a light pulley?

it's actually heavier than the cobb and perrin standard 2 groove pulleys. I've run both for 175k combined miles and had no issues.

[Scargo]

Just going to bump this a little as i've started paring down my engine.


a few things i am doing that i didnt add to the original post was deleting the oil cooler/warmer which requires 3 subaru parts

21111AA250 the 2008+ WRX waterpump which has the 2 nipples instead of 3 or 21111AA065 which is more expensive but has a cast impeller


130346
....
Jeff
You want the 21111AA065 Water Pump for its closed vanes, cast or not! Less prone to cavitation and more efficient.

[grabera7]

While this doesn't necessarily simplify things, has anyone done the cylinder 4 cooling mod? I reached out to Dominic Acia and he said this is how it would be hooked up with the deleted heater core. This adds an additional coolant line for flow near cylinder 4. Any thoughts?

130411

[Scargo]

This would require some welding/fabrication, but you could place a weldment "T" by adding a leg at the beginning of the crossover pipe. Let a hose go on down to the end of the head to the reducing fitting than Dom makes. (The ID of his fitting is the key to this flowing properly!) At the leg of the T route it to the heater core tube from the water pump. If you shorten that steel tube then there will be no "U turn" of the hose and water flow. It will just make a "90" as it comes into the "T's base" you've welded on. I can mark up a photo if this is not clear.

[longislandwrx]

This would require some welding/fabrication, but you could place a weldment "T" by adding a leg at the beginning of the crossover pipe. Let a hose go on down to the end of the head to the reducing fitting than Dom makes. (The ID of his fitting is the key to this flowing properly!) At the leg of the T route it to the heater core tube from the water pump. If you shorten that steel tube then there will be no "U turn" of the hose and water flow. It will just make a "90" as it comes into the "T's base" you've welded on. I can mark up a photo if this is not clear.

exactly, one of these pipes unbolts from the crossover manifold near the back, so you could get that fitting brazed on and make it look like it was meant to be there.

but is the cyl 4 mod as important now that the engine is not in as much of a confined space?

[Scargo]

I had forgotten that some have that bolt-on end. Mine do not, perhaps because they are all '07-'08 STI?
The thing of interest on mine, which I show in the picture, is that I notched the manifold so that I could use the port in the main oil gallery for monitoring oil pressure or temperature. The blue silicone hose eliminates a crossover piece of metal tubing from the water pump and let me position the coolant expansion tank wherever I want.
130494
As to the necessity of the cooling mod, I absolutely feel like it is needed for a high performance engine. I've read all about it and I have had discussions with Dom about it, and many other things Subaru engine related. I think its value is proven. For someone who has worked on nuclear subs and built aircraft engine systems using Subaru engines, I have faith in what Dom says.

[longislandwrx]

the attachment didn't load properly.

[Sgt.Gator]

While this doesn't necessarily simplify things, has anyone done the cylinder 4 cooling mod? I reached out to Dominic Acia and he said this is how it would be hooked up with the deleted heater core. This adds an additional coolant line for flow near cylinder 4. Any thoughts?

130411

I have it on my STI and 818. I bought Dom's original product direct from him, but now I use the OEM Subaru fitting, JDM Subaru Twin Turbo Legacy Plug-Water Bypass, 21170AA020. They are hard to find so I bought 10 of them a year ago from a JDM parts place in Japan. US dealers can't get them. A little more in this thread:https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?36519-Transmission-Cooling-ideas-Air-Versus-Water

I think it's a good idea. So far I haven't heard of any problems from running them and I haven't had any issues yet. . IAG sells Dom's kits now and 3 other companies have replicated Dom's idea with their own products.

[longislandwrx]

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2882734&page=8#PhotoSwipe1593562434860


I was reading this thread but can you show how you implemented it?

[Sgt.Gator]

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2882734&page=8#PhotoSwipe1593562434860


I was reading this thread but can you show how you implemented it?

Here you go:

131922

131921