GUNS' 818SR Build Thread [Archive]

GUNS

12-29-2012, 08:53 PM

Hey guys,

I've been apart of this community ever since the 818 was announced and I'm proud to say that as of today I have officially begun my 818 build. I bought my 2002 WRX the summer after the 818 was announced with the intent to daily drive/track it until it was time to turn it into an 818. Well that time has come and today I cancelled my insurance and began tearing it apart.

I am happy to say that I am as excited about the 818 as I was when I first heard about it. I have about 10 years of HPDE experience in a variety of cars and sort of found myself in a conundrum. I tried to make the DD/track car thing work, but that proved to be too difficult to me. I found it hard to balance the track/street performance aspect. To solve the problem, I looked towards a track focused platform. The problem with this is I found that any platform that was desirable for me was far too expensive for a track toy. I found myself wondering why no one could offer a performance based/track oriented car that was still street able for under $30k. Then along came the 818 and filled that gap perfectly, so to speak.

My goals are to build an 818SR. I will start with an 818S and build it to suit the track more than the street. The R seems to be a little too extreme for me right now as I still want a somewhat street able car. I'm planning on keeping the engine stock for now with a good tune to get comfortable with the car. Eventually I'd like to end up with about 300 whp.

So on to the build. To start, I am by no means an experienced mechanic. I have done basic tasks like exhaust, suspension, brakes, wheel bearings, and minor electrical. This is going to be a learning experience for sure and that's part of the fun. So for anyone that is not sure if they have the skills to build one of these, follow my thread because I am the poster child for this. I'm going to start with the tear down of the WRX and continue on into the 818 build. I'm starting the tear down about 6 months prior to approx kit delivery date to give myself ample time to remove and refurbish the parts. I'd rather have everything sitting in my garage waiting to go then be rushed to get the parts ready.

I'm going to remove the engine/trans first so Day 1 began with the removal of necessary items to allow for engine removal. I removed the IC, Radiator (coolant shower was awesome), reservoirs, electrical connections, and hoses. I made sure to label everything! I know that 6-9 months from I'll be looking at a hose and wonder "where the hell does that thing go?"

I have a pretty busy schedule, so I'll be working on the car/updating this thread when I have time. I'm sure I'll be asking a lot of questions throughout, so thanks in advance. I look forward to the adventure!

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/2012-12-29_11-23-33_845.jpg

818 Related Stuff On Page 3!

FFR-ADV

12-29-2012, 09:40 PM

HI Guns,

I am drving my 2004 WRX wagon (purchased in early September for the 818) right now and plan to start to tear down once the donor list is final as I do not wish to spend time salvaging parts I won't use or destroying/losing a part that I will need.

I look forward to seeing your work progress. I would love to have a four post lift but my garage bays are under my house. Where did you get your lift? How do you like it so far? Would you change anything having installed and used this lift?

Happy New Year!

GUNS

12-29-2012, 10:23 PM

FFR-ADV,

That's a very good point and something I've put a lot of consideration in. With that being said, I'm not going to part out anything until I know exactly what will be needed. Needless to say I'm going to have a very cluttered garage for a while.

As far as the lift, you can get it here: http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-Kwik-Bay-7-000-LB-Mid-Rise-Lift . It is by far one of the best purchases I have ever made. As you can tell, my garage does not support a four post lift, or even a Max Jax. The great thing about this lift is that it allows full access to the underside of the car, unlike most scissor lifts. Installing the lift is very simple. The only things you'll need is a 30 amp outlet and compressed air to release the locks. When I was DD'ing the WRX, I would just park over it everyday. It's also somewhat mobile in case you need to move it around. The other benefit vs a post lift is that It doesn't not impede use of the other bay whatsoever, which keeps the wife happy.

wallace18

12-30-2012, 08:25 AM

Good luck with your teardown. I started many months ago. I am still doing some little things. Working on the donor thread may be some use to you. Feel free to ask questions, some of us may help you avoid problems we ran into.

FFR-ADV

12-30-2012, 08:41 AM

Hi Guns,

Thank you for the detailed reply. That looks like a great solution!

Hi wallace18,

What was your approach to choosing which parts to save and storing them so you could find it when you needed it. The picture in your avatar suggests you had a very organized approach.

Thank you both for sharing what you have and are learning in the teardown!

Happy New Year!

wallace18

12-30-2012, 10:19 AM

I used the (what you need list) from the FFR website. I store them in a enclosed trailer I have outside my barn. By keeping parts that will be used together it makes the storage easier IMO. I am lucky to have ample space to work and store. Although I have lots of car experience this will be my first Kit car. I am researching as much as I can from the other FFR forums and utube videos as well. Also I learn from our other 818 Bro's in their posts as well.

Mechie3

12-30-2012, 10:54 AM

I put all bolts into a ziploc bag and labeled where it came from. My wife brings home these 2.5'x1.5'x6" plastic trays from the hospital. I put components into those based upon their use. One for suspension bits, one for random brackets, one for pedals and cylinders, others for random items and put them all on shelves. Items definitely not needed were sold or scrapped.

flynntuna

12-30-2012, 06:12 PM

And pictures lots of pictures,

Flamshackle

12-31-2012, 02:33 AM

And pictures lots of pictures,

Amen!

Turboguy

12-31-2012, 10:42 AM

Isn't it a bit early for one of these?

timmy318

12-31-2012, 11:26 AM

Isn't it a bit early for one of these?

Never is imho! This would have the car from teardown to build up all in one thread!

Mechie3

12-31-2012, 12:19 PM

Isn't it a bit early for one of these?

I'm with Timmy on this. I don't have one here, but on the two subaru forums I'm on I have an ongoing build thread. Here, I just post random pics in the "working on the donor thread".

Highway Star

12-31-2012, 02:17 PM

It would be great if you also kept a running total on man hours as you went. This will give me a good idea on the amount of lead time for the donor. I'd like to be sure to start soon enough be to done before my delivery but dont' want a lot of parts laying around forever either.

GUNS

12-31-2012, 04:08 PM

I realize that a "build thread" seems early, but I wanted to keep my teardown and build all in one location. Plus, we're really not that far out from builds. I recommend a sub forum for build threads.

Just an update. So far after 13 hours I am ready to pull the engine and transmission. Understand that 13 hours is probably excessive, but this is my first time doing engine/trans pull and I'm taking my time (part of the reason I started the teardown so early). I'm going to attempt to lull the engine and trans still connected. If that doesn't work I'll just separate them and pull separately.

I went ahead and removed the brakes/axles just to make it a little easier to get the tranny. If you are going to remove your axles at this point, keep in mind that these things have a tendency to seize to the hubs. I replaced my wheel bearing about a year ago and removing the axles form the hubs were a giant PITA.

I'm doing a good job of labeling and using zip lock bags for everything, but not so good at tacking pictures. I pan on taking a lot more pictures during the actual 818 build portion. I made a spreadsheet to keep track of all costs/time associated with the build. It's nothing fancy, but I can upload it if anyone is interested in using it.

BTW, having this lift is making everything soooooooo much easier. If you are on the fence about getting one, I highly recommend it! Happy New Year!

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/2012-12-31_15-40-26_12.jpg

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/2012-12-31_15-40-46_736.jpg

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/2012-12-31_15-41-45_807.jpg

Mechie3

12-31-2012, 04:40 PM

I spent an estimated 16 hours fully tearing mine down. That said, I had 6 years of wrench time on the car previously and knew where to go and what to do. Ditto on the hubs. Pita.

wallace18

12-31-2012, 04:58 PM

You can drop the engine , trans , rack and front subframe all in one piece. Look at working on the donor thread to see my pull picture.

GUNS

12-31-2012, 05:32 PM

You can drop the engine , trans , rack and front subframe all in one piece. Look at working on the donor thread to see my pull picture.

Thanks for the advice, I'll take a look at it tomorrow.

metalmaker12

01-01-2013, 10:38 AM

Looking good GUNS, it does not matter how long it takes to tear it down as long as you get it done clean and organized. You got time til the kit arrives. As Wallace mentioned, a good piece of advice is to take the engine,tranny and subframe down in one shot. In your case you have a nice little lift. Get a pallet (with wheels if you do not have a pallet jack) and have the engine, tranny and all mounting bolts off, along with all hoses, wire linkage, driveshaft etc. Make it totally free. I would also remove the radiator, condenser and any other bolt on stuff to give you a lot of room. once it is free and resting on pallet, raise the car slowly and make sure it is lifting away from the unit.Take your time and use your head to make it easier. Be safe and good luck. Being organized will totally help you down the road, I would save slot of stuff since the what you need list is subject to change. I got ride of my donor because my neighbors were getting jerky, so I hopefully grabbed all that I could. A funny thing, that is not mentioned on the what you need list is the harness and ecu, off coarse we need this, but I would think they should list these important items .

GUNS

01-02-2013, 07:30 PM

After watching an amazing Outback bowl (Go Cocks!) I had my brother and buddy help pull the engine. We decided to just pull it out the top since just about everything to do so was already disconnected. It went pretty smooth, the AC condenser got a little banged up on the way out, but no big deal. The only real lesson learned with pulling the engine and tranny out the top is make sure you either plug the tranny or drain it. I have a lake of transmission fluid on my garage floor right now. Once I get the mess cleaned up I'll continue on the rest of the tear down. Thanks for all of the great advice so far. I'm already having a blast, although I do miss driving the WRX.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/IMG957229.jpg

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/IMG954965.jpg

metalmaker12

01-02-2013, 08:43 PM

lol, yea this is something I should have mentioned, figured you would have drained it first. Yea the wrx's are wicked fun to drive, miss driving it

rjh2pd

01-03-2013, 01:14 AM

A good tip to keep the ac condenser protected is to place a piece of plywood between the engine and the condenser right before you pull the engine

wallace18

01-03-2013, 06:26 AM

Looks like a nice engine and trans. Should work well with your 818.

Mechie3

01-03-2013, 08:56 AM

Spray paint can caps fit really well on the end of the transmission to plug it. You'll have to plug the axle ports too though.

GUNS

01-03-2013, 10:08 AM

Spray paint can caps fit really well on the end of the transmission to plug it. You'll have to plug the axle ports too though.

That's a good call. I tried a surgical glove, which obviously did not work.

07FIREBLADE

01-04-2013, 04:02 PM

GUNS,

Where did you get the lift and how much did it cost?

GUNS

01-04-2013, 04:14 PM

GUNS,

Where did you get the lift and how much did it cost?

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-Kwik-Bay-7-000-LB-Mid-Rise-Lift

GUNS

01-06-2013, 05:04 PM

Made some progress over the weekend, but I'm not where I want to be right now. I've had a few troublesome bolts that have eaten up some time. Does anyone have a good technique for separating the engine and transmission? I've tried chiseling with a putty knife, screw driver, chisel with no luck. I tried using some heat, but maybe not enough. So, any ideas?

apexanimal

01-06-2013, 06:01 PM

Jump on it

metalmaker12

01-06-2013, 08:03 PM

You have to remove the clutch fork pin, so you can pull the fork out. It's seems like it is stuck on the throw out bearing.
Btw PB blast is amazing for locked up bolts. If you can lock the engine down to a pallet or something and place a large breaker bar above the rear output shaft and give it a pry up than down, side to side etc, that should do it if you have all the bolts and pin out. I second jumping on it if all else fails lol. These images may help, if not I will make you a video

1433814339

GUNS

01-06-2013, 08:25 PM

Clutch fork pin is removed and clutch fork is disengaged. I'll try those techniques you suggested. I'm also going to try and jack up the tranny while the engine is on the hoist to try and take the pressure off the studs. We'll see what happens!

metalmaker12

01-06-2013, 08:31 PM

It is just teasing you, Remove the clutch slave and rubber booth and spray some pb blast towards the tranny spline, let it sit for like ten . You will get it. When I get a problem, I step away for about 5 -10, think about it, and hit it again, nine out of ten I get it.

Mechie3

01-06-2013, 10:27 PM

There are two dowel pins that tend to rust and expand and get stuck. I've had to use a hammer and a chisel before to separate the motor and trans.

RM1SepEx

01-07-2013, 08:34 AM

mne was a ***** to sererate too... PB Blast all mating areas, hold it down as an assembly, pull twist and jump up and down, side to side... the dowel pins were most of the issue... It will come apart. It took two of us and my friend Mark is pretty big, applying the torque. I couldn't do it w/o extra hands

metalmaker12

01-07-2013, 05:08 PM

yea the pins need pb blast, a little heat, and love as well, You may need extra hands, or maybe I am just stronger than Rm1sepex lol. So we all want a video of this tranny removal on a live webcast. It should be fun to watch.

Bob_n_Cincy

01-07-2013, 07:44 PM

14348
I have fail at this before by leaving the starter bolt in. I figured they just bolted the starter to the bell housing. I was wrong for the first time in my life. (that day)

GUNS

01-07-2013, 08:59 PM

Great tips from everyone. Everything is disconnected, it's just going to need some extra lovin. I'll be sure to post the results once I get it apart (I'll work on the video).

GUNS

01-09-2013, 09:36 PM

Great Success!

I was finally able to get the engine and transmission separated and I did it all by my lonesome. Sorry, no live telecast video, but I did take some pics.

I started by lifting the engine slightly and then jacking up the end of the transmission. the theory behind this was to help relieve tension in the guide pins and studs:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/2013-01-09_18-54-39_54.jpg

I then took the thinnest putty knife I could find to start chiseling away at any gap I could find. I found this knife at Lowes and it is very thin at the tip, but gradually gets thicker (so to speak) which worked great for creating bigger gaps.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/2013-01-09_18-54-32_54.jpg

Once I had a gap going, I chiseled in a flat head screw driver to create a bigger gap and hold what progress I had made. I then took a second flat head to create an even gap around the entire bell housing to give myself enough room for a pry bar.

Hard to see, but there are 2 screw drivers, a top and bottom left:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/2013-01-09_19-00-16_386.jpg

Once the gap was big enough I just worked it with a pry bar until it finally came apart.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/2013-01-09_19-03-41_503.jpg

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/2013-01-09_20-34-32_993.jpg

Very happy to have this out of the way. it even went easier than I was expecting, especially after my first attempt. Once I was able to create a gap, it actually came apart pretty easily.

wallace18

01-10-2013, 06:43 AM

Good Job!

Do yourself a favor and take pictures of the vacuum lines, wiring routes for future referance.

longislandwrx

01-10-2013, 07:06 AM

Does EVERY WRX valve cover leak at that same spot? Probably the 10th I've seen.

Nice work so far, keep up the good work.

Mechie3

01-10-2013, 09:06 AM

Does EVERY WRX valve cover leak at that same spot? Probably the 10th I've seen.

Not every, but a lot. These cars are 02's, so they're 10 years old. The uppipe gets rather hot and is very close to the passenger head which hastens the drying out of the rubber seal. There's also a half moon seal on the back. I put 09 WRX heads on my 06 motor and they don't have the half moons (one less thing to leak).

metalmaker12

01-10-2013, 04:14 PM

About time lol, what took you so long. It is all about leverage when getting most trannies apart. Good pics, keep up your teardown thread.

rjh2pd

01-10-2013, 06:16 PM

Does EVERY WRX valve cover leak at that same spot? Probably the 10th I've seen.

Not sure about the wrx, but my 03 legacy did. The good thing is they are very easy to change and will be even easier once the engine is out of the car. both gaskets (and spark plug gaskets) for my legacy cost about $15-$20 so they arent expensive either. So not really a big deal

GUNS

01-21-2013, 03:54 PM

Haven't had a ton of time to work on the car, but I made some good progress this weekend.

I dropped the rear end as a whole and disassembled it off the car. This made it a little bit easier, but I still had some problem bolts.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/2013-01-14_09-48-54_923.jpg

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/2013-01-20_11-27-55_847.jpg

After that I started to tackle the interior. I got the majority of it out, but still have a lot to do.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/2013-01-21_11-26-00_653.jpg

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/2013-01-21_11-26-11_288.jpg

So far I have put in a total of 35 hours and 12 days. I don't know how some of you get the whole thing done in 15 hours! I feel like I'm going at a decent pace. Again, I am doing this alone and have never done anything remotely close to this before. I won't be able to work on it for a few weeks, but I feel like I'm at a good stopping point for now. I am starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel with the donor tear down.

RM1SepEx

01-21-2013, 05:04 PM

It took me and a couple friends a total of about 40 man hours to pull it apart, virtually every nut, bolt and bracket was removed
Since then I have another 40 hours reconditioning, powder coating etc so that right now all I need is the transaxle to come back from the LSD install. Wheel fitment, steering wheel and the will I be happy with the stock WRX seats are all that is left...

So you are not that far off what it took us to do it. The 15 hr folks have extensive WRX knowledge...

Mechie3

01-21-2013, 06:37 PM

So far I have put in a total of 35 hours and 12 days. I don't know how some of you get the whole thing done in 15 hours! I feel like I'm going at a decent pace. Again, I am doing this alone and have never done anything remotely close to this before. I won't be able to work on it for a few weeks, but I feel like I'm at a good stopping point for now. I am starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel with the donor tear down.

For me, it was my DD and autocross car for 6 years. I had a lot of aftermarket parts on that were easier to get off, and I knew exactly where to look for what bolts and what method was best to remove it. 6 years of practice paid off. lol.

rjh2pd

01-21-2013, 07:36 PM

I love your idea for labeling the wires with the key fob things. it seems like those would be a ton easier and cleaner than tape.

GUNS

01-21-2013, 07:43 PM

I love your idea for labeling the wires with the key fob things. it seems like those would be a ton easier and cleaner than tape.

Thanks! http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008OTKM5W/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00

GUNS

02-18-2013, 09:55 AM

Been a while since I've updated this thread. I've been pretty busy, but I've been steadily making progress. I found someone that is interested in all my body panels and frame which is going to be a huge win. He's not planning on picking it up until may, so I'm trying to get too excited because I've seen too many deals fall through. The only issue is I haven't figured out how to get the chassis off the lift and on to a trailer when he comes to pick it up. Anyone got any ideas?

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130217_163429_zpsf2a052dc.jpg

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130217_163413_zps26b39972.jpg

Here's the log I'm keeping to show the breakdown of the work:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/818logpicture_zps27c8623a.png

Jacob McCrea

02-18-2013, 11:42 AM

"The only issue is I haven't figured out how to get the chassis off the lift and on to a trailer when he comes to pick it up. Anyone got any ideas?"

I had a similar issue when moving my frame onto and off of a trailer for powder coating. I had the frame on tall jack stands and was able to back the trailer under the rear of the frame, then use a wheeled floor jack (on the trailer) to lift up that end. With another set of wheels on the front, I was able to roll it the rest of the way onto the trailer. As for getting the front of the frame "on wheels," I bolted a piece of steel angle to an engine stand and bolted that to the frame. It was hokey but it worked. It was (or should have been) a 3-person job- someone on at least one side to prevent it from rolling over, another person on the trailer, and another person at the other end of the car to push the engine stand.

It looks like you could just lower the lift to the height of the trailer, back the trailer up to the lift, put 4 furniture dollies under the chassis and roll the thing forward onto the trailer, assuming there are no gaps to snag the dolly wheels. Perhaps a floor jack on the trailer and 2 furniture dollies under the back of the chassis would also work.

Steve91T

02-18-2013, 12:32 PM

8 guys and a case of beer should work...Can't weigh that much.

RM1SepEx

02-18-2013, 05:40 PM

i wheeled mine around by setting it on a couple of car dolleys with a 2 by across the top of the dolley. I bet with some creative jack work you could lower it onto a dolley on the front and work it forward with a jack until it's on two dolley. The flat bed just winched it up and we removed the dolleys. only $100 or so of steel in it if you pull EVERYTHING.

GUNS

02-24-2013, 08:02 PM

Thanks for the advice, I think a bunch of friends, some furniture dollies, and beer is the way to go.

I won't be able to work on the car for about a month, but I was able to at least get some work done over the weekend. I removed the front cabin wIring harness. I've tried to tag and label everything, but I already found a few connectors that left me asking "What the hell does that go to?" Oh well, such is life.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130224_192121_zps6e493dde.jpg

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130224_193232_zps95d88e3e.jpg

I have to give a shout out to my extremely patient wife. Her only stipulation with this project was that she has a garage spot every night and so far I have kept up my end of the bargain. With that said, she's still not too pleased that our guest bedroom and office look like this:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130218_164312_zpsbdd63c05.jpg

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130218_164254_zps7c3586fd.jpg

I'm starting to run out of room, but so far so good.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130224_193742_zpsf7ee8fc6.jpg

Mechie3

02-24-2013, 08:52 PM

Hahaha! I showed my wife the pics and she gaveme her unamused face. Lol. Thankfully we have a basement to hide stuff.

oki-ra

02-26-2013, 12:38 AM

Hey but look at it this way you could make a really sweet car bed for your guests

longislandwrx

02-26-2013, 06:52 AM

Yo Guns... tell me about that flush mount tire rack. I have a typical wall mount one and it sticks too far into the room. Where did you get that bad boy?

GUNS

02-27-2013, 09:08 AM

Yo Guns... tell me about that flush mount tire rack. I have a typical wall mount one and it sticks too far into the room. Where did you get that bad boy?

Just went to Lowes and bought a couple of K-Rails: http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=103683-23170-8100401BL&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3374252&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

They have a bunch of different attachments for them and I used a couple of extendable metal rails for my mount. I used 2 rails per wheel. I wouldn't put a ton of weight on this setup, but it seems to hold the weight of the wheels fine.

veloce2

03-01-2013, 01:18 AM

longislandwrx

03-01-2013, 06:49 AM

I have to give a shout out to my extremely patient wife. Her only stipulation with this project was that she has a garage spot every night and so far I have kept up my end of the bargain. With that said, she's still not too pleased that our guest bedroom and office look like this:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130218_164254_zps7c3586fd.jpg

I know what you mean.... my wife would be PISSED if I just left the router on the floor like that. Wireless would be terrible!

also lol @ through all that dismantling... the snorkus abides.

GUNS

03-30-2013, 03:45 PM

Made a lot of progress today. The car is mostly dismantled and all I really have left to do is remove any remaining bolts/brackets and clean up the chassis a bit before I sell it. Once the chassis is gone I will begin cleaning/restoring parts, which I am not looking forward to. I have a little over 60 hours in at this point. Luckily, there wasn't a whole lot that gave me much trouble. I took my time with it and really learned a lot. I can't wait to get some of these parts out of my garage to get ready for the new ones. I'm still waiting on a complete list, before I sell too much. I really don't want to sell something I think I don't need, just to find out I needed it after all.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130330_150443_zps13f128a1.jpg

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130330_152127_zpsce92fbf0.jpg

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130330_153927_zpsc40b298e.jpg

metalmaker12

03-30-2013, 03:52 PM

Nice, if you got any questions on parts, refurbishing etc, I will be here

GUNS

03-30-2013, 05:32 PM

Nice, if you got any questions on parts, refurbishing etc, I will be here

I may take you up on that, thanks!

longislandwrx

04-01-2013, 06:07 AM

nice work.

GUNS

06-04-2013, 06:57 PM

Been a while since I've updated this. Haven't done a whole lot of work on the car, mainly been busy selling stuff and doing other things with my life. So far I've sold a little over $1k in parts and have about 70 hours total into it. I just took the chassis off the lift and will hopefully be selling it this weekend. I can't wait to have an 818 sitting on that lift instead of the WRX!

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130604_191634_zps2490e17b.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130604_191634_zps2490e17b.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130604_191559_zpsa50e1b76.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130604_191559_zpsa50e1b76.jpg.html)

GUNS

06-29-2013, 05:30 PM

Shell is gone!!! I'm happy to see someone buy it instead of me having to scrap it. It's going to be used as a rally car which I think is pretty cool. Now I just need to sell some remaining unneeded parts, prep the parts I need, and clean up the garage. My 818 should be getting here in a few weeks and I can't wait!

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130629_085943_zpsff5ed5db.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130629_085943_zpsff5ed5db.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130629_101439_zps0170c540.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130629_101439_zps0170c540.jpg.html)

metros

06-29-2013, 07:31 PM

Nice workspace you've got there. Brand of scissor lift? Is that thing a PITA to drive over when you're using that side of the garage and not working on the car?

GUNS

06-30-2013, 07:28 PM

Nice workspace you've got there. Brand of scissor lift? Is that thing a PITA to drive over when you're using that side of the garage and not working on the car?

It's an Atlas Kwik Bay 7000 and I have been extremely happy with it. Perfect for a low clearance garage. I parked over it daily with the WRX before I tore it down and it wasn't too big of a deal. I'm pretty sure the 818 will have some clearance issues so I will have to make some ramps or use some 2x4s or something to get over it. I may just have my wife park on that side when I'm not using it.

GUNS

07-07-2013, 05:01 PM

818 should be showing up in about a week, so I'm working on refurbishing some parts. I don't have a blast cabinet or anything fancy so I'm just using some elbow grease and rustoleum. Below are some pictures of the front control arm refurbish. I didn't do a perfect job, but I'm pretty happy with the results, especially for an already ugly piece of steel that's going to get dirty again anyway. Next I'm working on the hubs and brakes.

This first picture is the control arms before as well as the cleanup of the bushings:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/A-armrestore_zps5f4a703e.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/A-armrestore_zps5f4a703e.jpg.html)

Next picture is the finished result:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130707_155828_zps32363c1f.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130707_155828_zps32363c1f.jpg.html)

Oh and my first aftermarket item came in:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130707_094842_zps7534baa6.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130707_094842_zps7534baa6.jpg.html)

Mechie3

07-07-2013, 05:39 PM

Too soon junior.

Let's see if anyone gets the reference. Lol.

nikbrewer

07-07-2013, 06:23 PM

Too soon junior.

Let's see if anyone gets the reference. Lol.

Maybe you are referring to how I drive my white MK3 VW Jetta?

07FIREBLADE

07-07-2013, 06:39 PM

Too soon junior.

Let's see if anyone gets the reference. Lol.

Facepalm. This was on the other night. Still love these movies.... lol

Bob_n_Cincy

07-07-2013, 06:45 PM

Too soon junior.

Let's see if anyone gets the reference. Lol.

From Fast and Furious when Jesse pushed his nitrous button to soon. Johnny Tran goes on to win. (it was on last night.

07FIREBLADE

07-07-2013, 07:14 PM

Lol I kno what movie it was from. It was on also on the 4th. Was grilling n knocking back some cold ones while I was working on my donor.

doofoo

07-07-2013, 09:12 PM

DO you have a link to that specific momo steering wheel? I like the look of it!

longislandwrx

07-08-2013, 06:36 AM

Arms came out great, Who says you need the aluminum ones. Krylon touch FTW.

looking forward to seeing the knuckles.

GUNS

07-08-2013, 07:58 AM

Thanks for the comments. The wheel is a MOMO Mod .30 w/ buttons: http://www.momousa.com/racing/steering-wheels/mod-30buttons.html

Mechie3

07-08-2013, 08:12 AM

What are you going to use the buttons for?

GUNS

07-08-2013, 08:28 AM

What are you going to use the buttons for?

Horn...if I can get it to work properly.

RelfF2

07-08-2013, 09:25 AM

wheel looks sweet. That's another thing I to think about more. I want a D ring for leg room, but I also don't want it to be too small for low speed (read: parking) steering effort. hmmm

wleehendrick

07-08-2013, 11:10 AM

What are you going to use the buttons for?

19545 :confused:

GUNS

07-08-2013, 06:19 PM

Ha, no NAAAAWWWZZZZZZ for me. Relf, I don't think it will be too small. Actually, I think it's the perfect size for this car. I debated if I wanted a D wheel or not, especially since I am a shuffle steerer (is that a word?). I think it's actually going to be great as it adds some additional leverage. I'll review it once I get to drive the thing!

On another note, I got 1 of the front hubs done:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/hubs_zpsdaf89043.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/hubs_zpsdaf89043.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130708_190341_zps4f3ac21c.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130708_190341_zps4f3ac21c.jpg.html)

metalmaker12

07-08-2013, 07:45 PM

Looking good bro, bet you can't wait to build it

longislandwrx

07-09-2013, 06:16 AM

how did you get that hub so clean? is it new?

GUNS

07-09-2013, 06:58 AM

how did you get that hub so clean? is it new?

Nope, I used some Oil Eater and a Dremel with a wire brush piece on low speed. After that I used some mothers aluminum polish. It's not perfect, but way better than it was.

GUNS

07-18-2013, 07:04 PM

Let the games begin! I had to rush to get this thing in the garage and then had a long day at work. Won't be able to start looking it over/opening boxes until tomorrow night. Looks great so far, but there are what appears to be some shipping related blemishes.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130718_091938_zps12fd552e.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130718_091938_zps12fd552e.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130718_193150_zps3c57daf8.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130718_193150_zps3c57daf8.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130718_193138_zps12ac8af2.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130718_193138_zps12ac8af2.jpg.html)

metalmaker12

07-18-2013, 08:00 PM

Happy for you guns, I was supposed to get mine sat, but they moved it up to weds

doofoo

07-18-2013, 08:30 PM

Whew.. That's pretty! Can't wait for mine. Hope it comes sooner than November.

rjh2pd

07-18-2013, 08:31 PM

congrats! sorry about the blemishes, any pictures of them?

GUNS

07-18-2013, 08:38 PM

congrats! sorry about the blemishes, any pictures of them?

Thanks! I'll wait until I speak with FFR and the transport company about it. They are relatively minor, but still a little frustrating.

Steve91T

07-18-2013, 09:14 PM

Looks awesome. Can't wait to help you. Better make sure the fridge is stocked.

fateo66

07-18-2013, 09:23 PM

Thanks! I'll wait until I speak with FFR and the transport company about it. They are relatively minor, but still a little frustrating.

keep us posted because at $1800 for the shipping to my house there better not be any blemishes!

Mechie3

07-18-2013, 10:03 PM

Happy for you guns, I was supposed to get mine sat, but they moved it up to weds

Wonder if mine is delayed too. When I called yesterday it was being packed.

07FIREBLADE

07-18-2013, 11:37 PM

Same here... at 1900 its gonna be spotless or there gonna be buffing it out....

longislandwrx

07-19-2013, 06:34 AM

Looks good, fits nice on that quick lift. wife will be happy all the parts are coming back out of the bedrooms.

nikbrewer

07-19-2013, 08:44 AM

Are you not planning on painting it? I had the intention of blocking my down, add som fill primer, block again and paint.

The body looks amazing, but in the few fiberglass parts i have dealt eith , they all required a little work to get them perfect.

C.Plavan

07-19-2013, 09:11 AM

keep us posted because at $1800 for the shipping to my house there better not be any blemishes!

+1................ No Excuse

PhyrraM

07-19-2013, 09:47 AM

Sorry, I don't really mean anything by saying this (more of an amusing observation), but I have to admit I chuckled to myself a bit when I read one thread that folks say "Backorders are OK" and another that says "No shipping damage!".

Looking forward to seeing the build. Is the windshield simply taped in place or is it already bonded?

ehansen007

07-19-2013, 10:24 AM

wleehendrick

07-19-2013, 10:58 AM

I don't want to say the blemishes are 'understandable', but probably not unexpected for one of (the first?) 818 deliveries by Stewart. Their history/expectation is that bodies will be prepped/painted.

I would think some vinyl protective wrap (http://www.transportwrap.com/) might be a good idea (with additional attention to paid in shipping).

I plan on putting a little time into the gelcoat (polish, etc...) but a scratch that requires filler or touch-up would upset me, as we are expecting 'no-paint' body panels.

Thanks for sorting this out for the rest of us! ;)

VD2021

07-19-2013, 05:16 PM

Please let us know when you talked to Colin at Stewart. He needs to know that customers may not be painting these which means that he needs to treat it like a real car when loading and transporting. No scuffs, scratches, etc are tolerated. Especially at the prices we're paying. Thanks!

I agree. This is a new standard for FFR and we're going to have to push our delivery excitement to the side and inspect them as if it was a completed auto.

GUNS

07-19-2013, 05:29 PM

Hey guys, I spoke with Stewart today and they have been very professional. My 818 was the first one that they shipped and of course there will be some lessons learned. These lessons will be applied to the rest of you so that you don't have any issues. They sound committed to ensuring they nail down this process as it is different from the other kits. They are working with FFR to come up with a solution. If you are having your car shipped via Stewart I wouldn't worry about it. I'm sure they will figure out a better process ASAP.

Mechie3

07-19-2013, 07:49 PM

Mine may ship as early as tomorrow so we'll see how they do in round 2.

metalmaker12

07-19-2013, 08:17 PM

I hope there sending yours out soon

GUNS

07-21-2013, 08:41 PM

Looks good, fits nice on that quick lift. wife will be happy all the parts are coming back out of the bedrooms.

You spoke too soon. I pretty much swapped out blue parts for white parts :)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130720_151804_zps9142a4db.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130720_151804_zps9142a4db.jpg.html)

I at least cleared up the guest bedroom and consolidated everything into the "office." However, all of the boxes are taking up her side of the garage and she is not happy. Have I mentioned I have an extremely patient wife?

Got the inventory completed and everything looks to be high quality. I'm impressed with everything that comes with this kit for the price. I can't wait to get started, but the only item on backorder that I need is the manual! Luckily Wayne Presley has been nice enough to give me an initial vector so I can get started.

BTW, I love this lift:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130720_151045_zps3f1143f2.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130720_151045_zps3f1143f2.jpg.html)

ehansen007

07-22-2013, 10:40 AM

AMW1011

07-22-2013, 12:53 PM

Hey Guns, what lift is that exactly? Looks better than the one I've been eyeing.

Xusia

07-22-2013, 02:15 PM

Post #26 in this thread:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?8691-GUNS-818SR-Build-Thread&p=85656&viewfull=1#post85656

GUNS

07-28-2013, 06:52 PM

Hey guys, I finally got some time to work on the 818 a bit. So far I pre fit the front firewall and cabin aluminum and drilled all the holes. I'm going to remove them and have them powder coated later this week.

For those of you that have never done anything like this (like me), here are some tips that I think are useful:

-Cleco pins are great for holding the panels in place before you permanently attached them. I bought about 50 pins and the tool on amazon.
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130727_120331_zpsd0ce4f4a.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130727_120331_zpsd0ce4f4a.jpg.html)

-To measure the holes, I used a combo of a ruler and this little measuring device I made. I drilled most of my holes at 2" spacing, but in some areas I did 2.5".
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130727_122652_zps3fa645a0.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130727_122652_zps3fa645a0.jpg.html)

-I mainly used a standard electric drill with a 1/8 bit, but The right angle dremel attachment works wonders for the hard to reach areas (there are a lot!).
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130727_115606_zpscb2410b3.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130727_115606_zpscb2410b3.jpg.html)

That's about it. It's a bit tedious, but not too bad. I wasn't happy with all of FFR's pre-drilled holes, so I will have a couple of random holes in the aluminum, but it shouldn't be a big deal.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130727_131114_zps6ecb2772.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130727_131114_zps6ecb2772.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130728_161113_zpsaf0d6cec.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130728_161113_zpsaf0d6cec.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130728_184736_zps1bbbd63e.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130728_184736_zps1bbbd63e.jpg.html)

There will be a ton of metal shavings when you are done, so have a shop vac handy to clean up the mess
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130728_184743_zps226fa587.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130728_184743_zps226fa587.jpg.html)

NicksPapaw

07-28-2013, 08:44 PM

Lookin good Guns. X2 on the Cleco tool. I don't think you can build a Factory Five without one. And once you have it, you will find a million uses for them.

timmy318

07-28-2013, 09:11 PM

X3! Love the Cleco's (or whatever the plural is). They make the build a whole lot easier/quicker! Their are a lot of holes to drill and I need to get that right angle attachment! Some of those holes are impossible to get to without breaking a bit!

GUNS

07-29-2013, 05:42 AM

longislandwrx

07-29-2013, 06:30 AM

Nice work. I've got a 25 pack of 1/8 drill bits ready to go.

blueoval_bowtie_guy

07-29-2013, 07:57 AM

cmcintyre

07-29-2013, 08:59 AM

carbon fiber

07-29-2013, 09:01 AM

someone say cleco?20150

JAubin

07-29-2013, 09:06 AM

Speaking of drill bits, does anyone have a good source for the #11 and #30 bits recommended in the build books for the other FFR cars?
I order weekly from Mcmaster Carr for work, they offer decent discounts when you're buying in bulk. http://www.mcmaster.com/

wallace18

07-29-2013, 10:23 AM

Mike everson of replicaparts is a ffr vendor. He can sell you the drills and clecos.

Xusia

07-29-2013, 12:28 PM

When I built my Cobra, I took the elastic off an old pair of jockey shorts. Laid it out on the workbench and without stretching it I used a black sharpie and put lines on it about 1" apart. Very easy to stretch it so you get evenly spaced rivits. Drill and cleco each end then stretch the elastic between them. When you get the right spacing, the clecos will not only hold the aluminum to the steel tubing but will also keep the elastic stretched.

I found it to be very easy and gives a great look. You won't end up with 2 rivets near an end spaced closer than the others.

I like that idea. What a great solution!

One question that comes to mind is how important the particular spacing is. For example, when building a house the stud spacing is important because many things are built specifically around that standard spacing. This doesn't seem like the spacing would matter that much, but I've never done it before, so what do I know!

blueoval_bowtie_guy

07-29-2013, 02:25 PM

I like that idea. What a great solution!

One question that comes to mind is how important the particular spacing is. For example, when building a house the stud spacing is important because many things are built specifically around that standard spacing. This doesn't seem like the spacing would matter that much, but I've never done it before, so what do I know!

There really isn't anything about the spacing that is important. You want them close enough so you don't have big gaps between the rivets where the silicone sealant will cause a slight warp in the panel.

I did thousands of rivets on helicopters in the Marine Corps. There, the rivets were structural and spacing was important. Here with these it isn't. It is more for appearance than anything. Having them all in a nice straight line and with even spacing really makes it look a lot more professional.

Mechie3

07-29-2013, 03:06 PM

Rather than tear up my undies causing them to potentially get in a bunch I'll probably buy some elastic banding at the store. I do like that idea though!

68GT500MAN

07-29-2013, 05:04 PM

Around here the Home Depot and Lowe's carry number drills.

Xusia

07-29-2013, 05:40 PM

There really isn't anything about the spacing that is important. You want them close enough so you don't have big gaps between the rivets where the silicone sealant will cause a slight warp in the panel.

I did thousands of rivets on helicopters in the Marine Corps. There, the rivets were structural and spacing was important. Here with these it isn't. It is more for appearance than anything. Having them all in a nice straight line and with even spacing really makes it look a lot more professional.

Awesome, thanks!

Rather than tear up my undies causing them to potentially get in a bunch...

Good one! :)

mindinclouds

07-29-2013, 06:16 PM

Speaking of drill bits, does anyone have a good source for the #11 and #30 bits recommended in the build books for the other FFR cars? My local roadster guys said it made the whole riveting process easier as they are few thou bigger than 1/8 (.191 vs .187) and 3/16. I see this one - http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/11/HSS-WIRE-GAUGE-DRILL-BIT/ , but no experience with them.

My regular day job is in a different kit industry (Aircraft). It is difficult to put an 1/8 rivet in an 1/8" hole... +1 regarding using #30 for 1/8" rivets (standard practice on aircraft). For 5/32 rivets we use a #20 and 3/16" we use a #12.

One of the major suppliers that is very popular is AVERY TOOLS (http://www.averytools.com/)

Super people. Even though they carry a lot of tools that an FFR kit builder would likely never need, I am sure they would be happy to help you with the basics.

Note... not affiliated with them in any way, but I have done business with them many times and always satisfied.

BullDogMosport

07-30-2013, 11:30 AM

20173

Built 3 Airplanes and will build an 818R - after I sell my Porsche 911 race car and wait up to one year for a kit...

BullDogMosport

07-30-2013, 11:31 AM

Oh sorry.. picture is a Rivet Spacer for drilling ALL the holes nice and straight... Most AirCraft supply places have them

GUNS

07-30-2013, 11:47 AM

20173

Built 3 Airplanes and will build an 818R - after I sell my Porsche 911 race car and wait up to one year for a kit...

Just bought one on amazon, thanks!

AZPete

07-30-2013, 12:53 PM

Mechie3, we assumed you owned more than one pair of undies so you'd better buy some elastic. :)

Mechie3

07-30-2013, 01:26 PM

Mechie3, we assumed you owned more than one pair of undies so you'd better buy some elastic. :)

Apparently I've been doing it wrong. :confused:

:p

GUNS

08-05-2013, 12:55 PM

Decided to do a test fit of the suspension while waiting for the firewall panels to come back from powder coating. Is anyone else having trouble lining up their lower A arms? I know RM1SepEx is having a similar issue. Look at the following pictures to see the rear bushing not lining up with the frame. I can't even get the bushing to mount below the chassis bracket as depicted in the manual.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130805_134206_zpsdf632a5e.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130805_134206_zpsdf632a5e.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130805_134217_zpsb174fd6c.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130805_134217_zpsb174fd6c.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130805_134224_zpsd5ac90be.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130805_134224_zpsd5ac90be.jpg.html)

C.Plavan

08-05-2013, 01:03 PM

Did you flip the sides? I remember you have to swap rear bushing sides.

Mechie3

08-05-2013, 01:03 PM

I have aluminum arms. I'll try and drill them tonight and test fit them. Just have to remember where I put them....

Couple questions though: You did swap the end pieces right? Do you have aftermarket bushings? Lots of them are offset. IIRC, even on the factory WRX setup, removing and installing these sometimes requires you to pull really hard on the arm to line stuff up.

sneasle

08-05-2013, 02:04 PM

I order weekly from Mcmaster Carr for work, they offer decent discounts when you're buying in bulk. http://www.mcmaster.com/

I'll add a vote for McMasterCarr here. I've used them for years for supplies for school, work, and personal projects and they have always given me great customer service.

My orders always shipped out of Atlanta, usually have my stuff in less than 2 days (in Alabama), usually next day.

RM1SepEx

08-05-2013, 02:25 PM

they won't fit
I made 1/4 inch spacers under the low side and put the high side on the top. The manual says one thing yet shows another... PM me your emails and I'll send it to you by email.... everyone so far has done this, some w/o the spacers but I think that stresses the bushings too much... I got there Sunday AM and have been having internet issues... If you are using the shorter arms from a wagon etc... your problem is bigger.

Mine fit under on the right but the holes wouldn't line up... on the left, wouldn't go under AND tyhe 90 return under the upper bracket forces the arm forward so that you can't line up the forward lower pivot in the brackets.

Mechie3

08-05-2013, 02:33 PM

Sort of related: what hardware did you use to mount the top a arms RM1? The manual didn't specify.

metalmaker12

08-05-2013, 02:47 PM

[QUOTE=RM1SepEx;111439]they won't fit
I made 1/4 inch spacers under the low side and put the high side on the top. The manual says one thing yet shows another... PM me your emails and I'll send it to you by email.... everyone so far has done this, some w/o the spacers but I think that stresses the bushings too much... I got there Sunday AM and have been having internet issues... If you are using the shorter arms from a wagon etc... your problem is bigger.
Mine fit under on the right but the holes wouldn't line up... on the left, wouldn't go under AND tyhe 90 return under the upper bracket forces the arm forward so that you can't line up the forward lower pivot in the

I used a 1/4 inch pin pry bar and got it to line up just fine. I mean they are a little difficult, but no real issue. The manual, what's that lol, I barely looked at it yet. If you need advice pm me. Also you have to cut the remaining threads off on the left lower control arm on the aluminum arms to not hit the aluminum panels, btw that's not in the manual. And the left upper control arm needs to be cut down also

RM1SepEx

08-05-2013, 03:14 PM

I posted the same thing on my thread with photos, took the time to chop the photos so they would fit... :-)

Metalmaker, I tried to PM you sunday to discuss and your mailbox was full!

We came up with the same soln!

RM1SepEx

08-05-2013, 03:21 PM

Did you flip the sides? I remember you have to swap rear bushing sides.

that isn't flipped, you end up with the flat bushing side down and the one with the slight inflection on top... see my build thread for photos

GUNS

08-05-2013, 03:24 PM

Man I've tried these things every which way and they just won't line up. The have trouble lining up off the control arms as well, you have to sort of angle them to get them to work. I do have aftermarket bushings, but they are all the same size. I'm thinking I might have to offset my forward control arm bushings to move the entire assembly forward a bit.

Erik W. Treves

08-05-2013, 03:48 PM

which aftermarket bushing do you have? They have offset centers which makes it harder. I had to flip them and add washers as spacers to take the anti-lift out of them which gave me a 1* pitch up on the control arm..worked out fine in the end. Also if they have been in a car before the bushings all have some memory in them so you have to fight that as well.

longislandwrx

08-05-2013, 04:06 PM

Can you press the front bushing in another 1/4 inch? looks like that would line it right up. I will look at mine when I get home. (not installed yet)

GUNS

08-05-2013, 04:09 PM

They are brand new Turn In Concepts Bushings. They are not an anti lift kit, just new bushings. I tried this before with the stock bushings installed with the same results.

GUNS

08-05-2013, 04:21 PM

Can you press the front bushing in another 1/4 inch? looks like that would line it right up. I will look at mine when I get home. (not installed yet)

Maybe. Right now they are even. I'm not sure how that would effect the geometry if I offset that bushing. I'm guessing not much, but what do I know?

metalmaker12

08-05-2013, 05:37 PM

I will post mine, I got them in ok with aluminum arms.

RM1SepEx

08-05-2013, 05:41 PM

take the bushing off the arm, place it on the lower bracket and see if you can slide it under the top bracket, i'm willing to bet you a cold one it will not fit.

see page 71 of the build manual for the cad drawing for proper orientation of the bushing it is 2 5/8 tall.

On page 79 it states

The rear of the control arm bolts to the top of the bottom bracket and the bottom of the top bracket. The
inner set of holes is for the WRX sedan arms and the outer is for the 2.5RS and Wagon.

did you check out my thread and photos?

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?10649-RM1Sepex-Build-Thread/page2 post 60, how do your's compare?

As far as I can tell EVERYONE has bolted them on top! Clamp your bushing on the top of the bracket... I just filled the space with a 1/4 inch Aluminum spacer

If you use the short arms, you can't put them on the top w/o cutting the bracket and ruining your powder coat... AND you can't upgrade to the much prettier aluminum arms OR ever convert the car to track setup...

Bob_n_Cincy

08-05-2013, 06:52 PM

I don't know if this helps. It is a picture from SEMA 2012
Bob
20382

RM1SepEx

08-05-2013, 07:31 PM

Sort of related: what hardware did you use to mount the top a arms RM1? The manual didn't specify.

Page 79

1/2 - 20 1.75 flange head and locknuts, I'd give you the PN but that stuff is in the garage and I don't want to go back out... I need to stop playing for the night!

Bob most of ours don't fit under like that but yes that is what the manual says tho the bushing is flopped over in the cad drawing so the jiggle in the bushing is on the top

Dan

GUNS

08-05-2013, 07:56 PM

I don't know if this helps. It is a picture from SEMA 2012
Bob
20382

Mine do not fit like that. The holes will not line up.

GUNS

08-08-2013, 04:14 PM

Got this from FFR today in regards to the LCA bushing issues. I'm about to go into the garage and continue cutting as I have a lot of that "gusset" to trim.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/lcabush818_zpsecf870b5.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/lcabush818_zpsecf870b5.jpg.html)

GUNS

08-08-2013, 06:54 PM

Ok, got the driver side done!

Began by cutting and grinding the tab or "gusset" that hangs down and gets in the way:
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130807_192149_zps9f8a410f.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130807_192149_zps9f8a410f.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/SparksKit003_zps41498f5e.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/SparksKit003_zps41498f5e.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130808_183030_zps1afeaea8.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130808_183030_zps1afeaea8.jpg.html)

I then had to widen the bolt holes to allow the bushing to align correctly:
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130808_191326_zps20284931.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130808_191326_zps20284931.jpg.html)

I plan on touching up the bare metal with gloss paint. Don't mind the areas where the Dremel got away from me.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130808_192606_zps29fb0a93.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130808_192606_zps29fb0a93.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130808_192626_zps94a173c2.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130808_192626_zps94a173c2.jpg.html)

Now I just have to rinse and repeat the other side.

Nuul

08-09-2013, 07:18 AM

Very nice, that looks much better mounted that way.

Mechie3

08-09-2013, 08:13 AM

Before AND after pics? Awesome!

I plan to do this tonight. I don't have front springs yet anyways so I've been working on other areas in the meantime.

RM1SepEx

08-09-2013, 11:32 AM

Bob, please try my broom handle trick and see how well aligned you can get your arms, I'm interested to see how well it works with the steel arms.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?10649-RM1Sepex-Build-Thread/page4 post 124

metalmaker12

08-09-2013, 12:52 PM

Broomstick lol your too funny, it prob works though. Noticed you did not even try to ask me,, I will got get a flame thrower ready lol.

RM1SepEx

08-09-2013, 12:54 PM

I thought you had AL arms... I am interested in your measurements re this test

Did you try the fuel tank yet? I'm about to take mine out of the box...

GUNS

08-10-2013, 05:23 AM

Update to the damage done during shipping. FFR will be replacing my rear bumper. Stewart will be doing a swap out the next time they are near by. Both companies were great to deal with during this and it took very little effort on my part.

ehansen007

08-10-2013, 09:08 AM

That is great to hear! Good for you man. I can only imagine getting your kit after two years of waiting only to find out it's damage! . :) It happens though and it's great to hear they are backing it up. Doesn't surprise me either.

GUNS

08-12-2013, 05:32 PM

Front firewall sealed & riveted:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130812_150420_zpsa30ca480.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130812_150420_zpsa30ca480.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130812_150429_zps8efa5d77.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130812_150429_zps8efa5d77.jpg.html)

Mechie3

08-12-2013, 07:19 PM

Does your panel for the clutch cylinder sit flush? Mine is 1/2" off even with the sides all bottomed out.

RM1SepEx

08-12-2013, 07:47 PM

what do you mean "sit flush"? mine looks just like gun's only in black

metalmaker12

08-12-2013, 08:24 PM

Mechie mine was off as well, actually put my spacers, one on inside, one on outside

Btw guns, really like it bro!! Nice

GUNS

08-12-2013, 08:29 PM

Does your panel for the clutch cylinder sit flush? Mine is 1/2" off even with the sides all bottomed out.

No, but this is mostly caused by user error. I messed up the panel that the clutch MC bolts through and the one to the left of it as you are looking at it. I drilled these before I had the manual and thought that the clutch panel had to overlap the flange on the panel next to it. It's actually suppose just line up next to it. I noticed this after I drilled and figured it wasn't a big enough deal to justify drilling more holes. I test fit the clutch MC and it still fits fine and you won't notice it when it's all bolted together.

I actually thought mine was not able to be centered, but I was able to finagle the panels enough to get it to line up, but this was after I had drilled.

RM, by flush he means having the panels centered over the chassis holes.

JAubin

08-12-2013, 09:03 PM

Grey powdercoat looks really nice! I have been thinking I'd do something similar, and that tells me I'll like how it looks!

Mechie3

08-12-2013, 10:12 PM

My holes are centered, but there is a gap between the steel bracket welded to the chassis and the sheet metal. The sheet metal is bottomed out and can't move in any farther. The little overlap part towards the passenger side is lined up perfectly, so I think the panels are good. I used calipers and measured the gap. On the driver side it's about .25", on the passenger side it increases to about .375". It looks as though the steel bracket is welded on at an angle.

GUNS

08-30-2013, 05:42 PM

Mechie3

08-30-2013, 05:44 PM

You're correct that there isnt a nut associated with those bolts. I found an m14 (i think) nut in a box and used it. It might bite me later when i need another m14 for something else.

GUNS

08-30-2013, 05:46 PM

Yea I went to Lowe's and couldn't find anything that works.

RM1SepEx

08-30-2013, 06:24 PM

go to an ACE hardware, they will have what you need.

Bob_n_Cincy

08-30-2013, 08:59 PM

Been slammed this month with work and weddings and stuff so I haven't had as much time as I'd like to work on the 818. I have the steering rack all depowered and back together ready to go and have the front suspension loosely fitted. Getting ready to bolt everything down and then move to the rear. One question, what size nut are you guys using for the LCA rear bushings? I have the original bolt, but I'm pretty sure that just screwed into the subframe.

Hey Guns
I order new hardened hardware for my 2 kits from BelMetric Automotive .

------------------------------------------------------
12 x WFHV16 - Hardened Flat Washer (WFHV16) = $6.12 top and bottom on bushing mounts
4 x BH16X1.5X40 - Hex bolt 10.9 (BH16X1.5X40) = $18.24 bushing mounts
12 x NNH16X1.5 - Class 10 Nylock (NNH16X1.5) = $15.36 bushing mounts and top strut bolt
12 x NNH14X1.5 - Class 10 Nylock (NNH14X1.5) = $16.32 Bottom strut bolt nut
4 x BH14X1.5X60 - Hex bolt 10.9 (BH14X1.5X60) = $18.96 Bottom strut bolt
4 x BH16X1.5X65 - Hex bolt 10.9 (BH16X1.5X65) = $19.52 top strut bolt
------------------------------------------------------
I didn't want any play in my bolt holes on the suspension. So I got bolts that fit tightly.
Where the top cam bolt is 16.5 mm on the spindle and 16mm on the FFR bracket. So I put a 16mm fine thread hardened bolt.
The hole in the FFR bracket is not big enough for the OEM cam bolt.
These all arrive Monday so I'll let you know how each fit.
Bob

longislandwrx

08-31-2013, 08:17 AM

go to an ACE hardware, they will have what you need.

+1 The Ace near me has more hardware than all of the other hardware stores combined.

GUNS

08-31-2013, 08:27 AM

Yea that's a good call. I have one right near my work so I'll see what I can find. I feel like I'm getting close to getting it to a rolling status, shouldn't be too much more to do to get it there.

RM1SepEx

08-31-2013, 10:05 AM

All the guys at my ACE know me... I'm there several times a week due to my multitude of projects and my house is approaching 30! They have a great selection of std and metric hardware... grade 5 through 8 for std and only high grade stuff for metric. If they don't have it I usually just go to McMaster.com and you have it the next day or two

GUNS

09-02-2013, 08:16 PM

Thanks for the nuggets up on ACE, they had exactly what I needed.

I've been swamped this month, but was able to get a lot of work done over the long weekend. So far with the exception of the LCA mounts, everything has been going pretty smoothly. I got hung up on one of my front axles that took a lot of time. One came right apart and the other was seized. I managed to get it separated, but it was a PITA. I also replaced all suspension bushing with TiC Race bushings.

So the front suspension is about 95% done. The rear is loosely bolted on mainly to test fitment. I got the pedal box and steering column mounted as well. One question, do you have to drill into the pedal box for the brake MC to mount to it?

Next step is to button up the suspension and rebuild the brakes. I wish I paid more attention to the parking brake assembly, but I'll figure it out.

Most importantly is I'm having a blast doing this so far and I'm excited that it's actually starting to look like a car!

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130901_195538_zps9f340eb0.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130901_195538_zps9f340eb0.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130902_105140_zps264a8b1f.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130902_105140_zps264a8b1f.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130902_165502_zpseecf42b0.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130902_165502_zpseecf42b0.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130902_165521_zpsa563cfb6.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130902_165521_zpsa563cfb6.jpg.html)

Oh, and don't worry about my brake caliper being on backwards, I was tired.

Bob_n_Cincy

09-02-2013, 08:46 PM

Hey Guns
Looking Great, I'm a work day behind you
Bob and Mike

Mechie3

09-02-2013, 09:40 PM

Yes, you drill stuff to mount the cylinder. Its in the manual.

JeromeS13

09-02-2013, 09:50 PM

Is that seat sitting on the floor, or is it mounted to sliders/brackets?

GUNS

09-03-2013, 05:29 AM

Mechie, thanks for the input. Wasn't sure what the manual was trying to say in regards to MC mounting.

Seat is just on the floor for now. Hopefully will have it mounted soon.

longislandwrx

09-03-2013, 09:11 AM

Guns that looks SHARP. loving the battleship grey and I still can't believe those hubs are used.

Keep up the good work.

Racebrewer

09-03-2013, 10:13 AM

Nice Corbeau seat.

Which model is it and does the tilt of the seat match up to the rear firewall?

Thanks,
John

GUNS

09-03-2013, 07:22 PM

Thanks for the comments.

The seats are the FX1 Pro's and are not bolted in yet. I haven't had a proper fit test with the firewall yet, but I should be getting to that soon.

GUNS

09-04-2013, 07:08 PM

Quick update. I received a care package from FFR today! There was a bunch of stuff in there, but more importantly was a printed manual! No more running inside to check my computer. The bad news is they updated the strut mount location for the steel LCA's. I drilled/bolted at 1.75" and they have changed it to 2". Welp, I notice that the lower part of the front knuckle barely rubs the lower strut at full lock in both directions. I'm not sure how big a deal this is. I can't really re-drill the holes and they barely rub. I may leave it as is and hope for the best. This may change once the car has a load on it as well, for better or worse. Thoughts?

Steve91T

09-04-2013, 09:10 PM

Is the strut mounts aluminum or steel? You could find someone to weld up the holes then re drill.

wallace18

09-05-2013, 04:55 AM

GUNS

11-19-2013, 06:42 PM

Been a while since I've updated this thread. I've been gone for about a month and haven't worked on the 818 for over a month. It was good to get back to it. I spent a good amount of time in the garage the last few days and pretty much completed the front/rear suspension, re-assembled the parking brake (what a PITA), mounted the brakes, mounted brake and clutch MC, and started TGV deletes. I'm thinking the TGV deletes may not be worth the time involved, we'll see.

Hoping to get the engine back together soon then work on getting the engine/trans into the car. The stock wheels are just place holders for now.

Don't mind my messy garage:
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20131119_140337_zps915e5819.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20131119_140337_zps915e5819.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20131119_140248_zps777511fc.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20131119_140248_zps777511fc.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20131119_140354_zpsaa857215.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20131119_140354_zpsaa857215.jpg.html)

Frank818

11-19-2013, 08:07 PM

Nice glider! :)

Rasmus

11-19-2013, 08:32 PM

BI'm thinking the TGV deletes may not be worth the time involved, we'll see.

It's worth it. You trade time for horsepower and torque. It's free.

Delete them and be happy. Plus you'll never have that itch in the back of you mind that you could have done a free mod when it was easy to do.

GUNS

11-29-2013, 05:45 PM

Hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving.

Back to working on the car. I got my new swaybar brackets in and was able to get the suspension all finished up...so I thought. I did a lock to lock test and it looks like the front driver side tire rubs on the firewall panel just prior to full lock. The bad thing is this is with stock wheels and tires! I'm hoping there's an easy fix to this. Anyone know how to move the entire wheel forward? Hopefully it can be fixed with an alignment, but I'm fearing it has something to do with the LCA mount issues. All the suspension pieces line up and fit, which confuses me as to why the tire rubs.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20131129_124555_zps0cbb85f2.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20131129_124555_zps0cbb85f2.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20131128_133059_zps616d9430.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20131128_133059_zps616d9430.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20131128_133051_zpsfcf29e28.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20131128_133051_zpsfcf29e28.jpg.html)

I also got my driver seat mounted today. How are people doing their "broomstick" tests? I know it's typically done from the roll bar to windshield frame. I can't imagine the windshield in this thing would support any weight.

This cockpit is very tight. I'm 5'11" and I barely fit in the stock location. I'd prefer to be back a few more inches, but I don't really want to drop $600 for a Boyd tank just to be a little more comfortable. I think I'll leave it as is and see how it works out.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20131129_144807_zps23d45dd2.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20131129_144807_zps23d45dd2.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20131129_144800_zps64cf7a76.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20131129_144800_zps64cf7a76.jpg.html)

Aloha818

11-30-2013, 01:02 AM

Glad to see you back spending time on your build and posting!

I have only eyeballed my front bits so far, but when I did a trial fit with my new wheels and tires they did not rub.

One thing you might check is that you have to flip one side of the front top wheel adjusters, can't remember which side. Both long adjusters go to the front.

Silvertop

11-30-2013, 01:55 AM

Hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving.

Back to working on the car. I got my new swaybar brackets in and was able to get the suspension all finished up...so I thought. I did a lock to lock test and it looks like the front driver side tire rubs on the firewall panel just prior to full lock. The bad thing is this is with stock wheels and tires! I'm hoping there's an easy fix to this. Anyone know how to move the entire wheel forward? Hopefully it can be fixed with an alignment, but I'm fearing it has something to do with the LCA mount issues. All the suspension pieces line up and fit, which confuses me as to why the tire rubs.

The good news is there is probably nothing wrong with your LCA mount. There has been discussion on other threads about this common problem. What has been revealed is that the 818 front end is designed for use with tires that have an approximate maximum diameter of 24 inches, or possibly slightly larger. A stock WRX wheel will usually have a 205/55-16 tire on it, which has a nominal diameter of 25 inches (usually 24.9). That's why it rubs. The tire is simply too tall. If you are planning on using the stock wheels, you will want to drop down to a 205/50 on the front, which will put you into the ballpark of a 24" diameter. Then put 225/50's on the rear, and you will be good to go.......

Obviously, if you want to use wider tires, you'll have to go to wider wheels. But whatever you do, when you select your wheel and tire sizes and tire profiles, keep that 24" front tire maximum diameter in mind.

GUNS

11-30-2013, 07:59 AM

The good news is there is probably nothing wrong with your LCA mount. There has been discussion on other threads about this common problem. What has been revealed is that the 818 front end is designed for use with tires that have an approximate maximum diameter of 24 inches, or possibly slightly larger. A stock WRX wheel will usually have a 205/55-16 tire on it, which has a nominal diameter of 25 inches (usually 24.9). That's why it rubs. The tire is simply too tall. If you are planning on using the stock wheels, you will want to drop down to a 205/50 on the front, which will put you into the ballpark of a 24" diameter. Then put 225/50's on the rear, and you will be good to go.......

Obviously, if you want to use wider tires, you'll have to go to wider wheels. But whatever you do, when you select your wheel and tire sizes and tire profiles, keep that 24" front tire maximum diameter in mind.

Thanks for the response, I guess I wasn't expecting it to be such a tight fit, especially with stockers. I'm holding off on wheels/tires until I get this thing closer to being complete, hopefully that will resolve the issue.

Erik W. Treves

11-30-2013, 08:23 AM

You also need to get your alignment done...If you have a ton of caster in it, it will rub there...I modified both sides of the fire wall and splash guard and inner to fender liner to get my huge wheels to fit...granted now I rub on the inner frame, but right at lock, btI clear all the aluminum....having said all that...mine rubs at full droop about where yours does. Put it on the ground (at ride height)and see how it looks.

metalmaker12

11-30-2013, 04:06 PM

Things gets tight everywhere on this car, get used to it, 24" max dia up front

GUNS

12-09-2013, 02:38 PM

Anyone have any suggestions on throttle pedal placement? I got it where I want it, but it hits the rest of the pedal box which translates to very little throttle pedal movement:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20131209_143253_zps897387d4.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20131209_143253_zps897387d4.jpg.html)

metalmaker12

12-09-2013, 03:38 PM

The pedal def needs free movement, place it where it moves freely and it comfortable

RM1SepEx

12-09-2013, 05:31 PM

GUNS

12-09-2013, 05:54 PM

dump the bracket and mount the pedal right to the firewall

That's how Erik, the two cars Wayne has done and mine is... much better "feel" the FFR bracket is flexible junk.

BTW my throttle cable was also too short to use the bracket!

Thanks Dan, I'll take a look at that option tomorrow. Is the aluminum firewall sturdy enough? I'm assuming it is since you guys are all doing it that way.

GUNS

12-09-2013, 06:08 PM

Got some more work done today. As you read above, I attempted to fit the gas pedal. I'll have to finish that later.

I was able to make a template for my firewall separating the engine and fuel tank. Now I just need to source some aluminum and cut using the cardboard template:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20131209_124219_zpsdac1c080.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20131209_124219_zpsdac1c080.jpg.html)

I also built my rear axles. It was a little but of a PITA, but not terrible. It's a big mess, so just be prepared to clean up your tools/shop when you are done. Wayne's technique in the very first post of this thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?11115-818-assembly-tips-add-yours was money!! Thanks Wayne, you saved me a tone of time.

metalmaker12

12-09-2013, 06:08 PM

dump the bracket and mount the pedal right to the firewall

That's how Erik, the two cars Wayne has done and mine is... much better "feel" the FFR bracket is flexible junk.

BTW my throttle cable was also too short to use the bracket!

I did use the bracket, but modded it to be more stiff, my cable seems to be just enough to work correctly. Either way, the bracket is junk and you can do what I did or just toss it.

GUNS

12-09-2013, 06:20 PM

Metal,

Did you mount it per the manual?

GUNS

12-16-2013, 08:43 PM

Got the engine firewall mostly done. I ran out of RivNuts and need order some more to complete it. It's not perfect, but I think it turned out pretty good and should get the job done.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20131216_172500_zps65503fd4.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20131216_172500_zps65503fd4.jpg.html)

I also mounted the throttle pedal. I trimmed the supplied bracket and used it to mount the pedal to the firewall. I probably didn't need it, but thought I'd use it to add some support. We'll see how it works out. I still need to run the cable, ran out of time.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20131216_152606_zps37b0ecf7.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20131216_152606_zps37b0ecf7.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20131216_152950_zpsdf13d03a.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20131216_152950_zpsdf13d03a.jpg.html)

Frank818

12-16-2013, 08:53 PM

Guns (and roses), that's EZCool insulation on the FW?

GUNS

12-16-2013, 09:09 PM

Guns (and roses), that's EZCool insulation on the FW?

Ha, I like the play on my name. Yes it is. I have a bunch of it left over, so I will probably line the backside of the main firewall (behind seat), bottom of fuel tank, and if there is any left, the front side of the firewall pictured above.

Xusia

12-17-2013, 12:50 AM

Did you buy the 10' section or the 50' roll?

07FIREBLADE

12-17-2013, 01:26 AM

How much of the ez cool did you use sq ft?

GUNS

12-17-2013, 08:08 AM

Xusia,

I bought the 10ft roll and that should be plenty for what I plan on using it for. 50ft would be a ton of this stuff!

Fireblade,

I think each half used about a 23in x 23.5 in square and then I trimmed as required. Roughly 8 sq ft. total.

FFRSpec72

12-17-2013, 11:03 PM

I bought the 10ft roll and that should be plenty for what I plan on using it for. 50ft would be a ton of this stuff!

I used it in my challenge car and will say I won't use it again, does not hold up, so will go w/o this for my R build

GUNS

12-27-2013, 12:41 PM

How are you guys passing the throttle cable through the firewall? Manual says to drill a 1/4 in hole through the firewall and pass the cable through. Only problem is all of the hardware on the cable ends are >1/4 in. Maybe I'm dumb, but I can't figure it out other than drilling a much larger hole or disassembling the cable. Also, once the cable is through, how are you guys routing the cable? Thanks.

waruaki

12-27-2013, 01:15 PM

I don't recall the size of the top hole it just needs to be big enough to squeeze the crimped ball at the end of the cable through. The bottom ended up being a U letter drill .368 I believe the picture shows our cable placement. the cable lays in the tunnel then over the top of the tank and across the motor to the throttle body.

24739

GUNS

12-27-2013, 06:50 PM

Thanks waruaki, that helped immensely!

Here's what I did. I drilled a 1/2" hole (manual says 1/4") in the firewall and had to punch the ball and plastic crimp through the hole:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20131227_162226_zps4cb4fea5.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20131227_162226_zps4cb4fea5.jpg.html)

I then used a 3/8" E-Clip from lowes to act as a washer for the cable to attach to the firewall:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20131227_163751_zps1f0f250c.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20131227_163751_zps1f0f250c.jpg.html)

I then drilled another 1/2" hole to allow the cable to pass through the trans tunnel.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20131227_171444_zps28240859.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20131227_171444_zps28240859.jpg.html)

GUNS

12-28-2013, 06:36 PM

Well today is officially 1 year later from when I started tearing down my perfectly good WRX to prep for this project. Even though it's taking a while, I'm still having a blast and learning a lot as I go. So far I have 206 hours into this project, including the WRX teardown.

So here's what I got done today. I finally riveted the interior aluminum. I postponed this until I was comfortable that I wouldn't need to make any changes. I'm glad I did, because it wasn't until recently that I learned there is a coolant tube cover that someone else discovered. The manual does a good job of getting you started and then just moves on to something else. It is definitely incomplete.

Here's the passenger side. The driver side looks the same. I decided not to powder coat it since I plan to cover it in carpet. I did however give it a coat of Sharkhide to hopefully protect it from corrosion.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20131228_171944_zpsf3113ff2.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20131228_171944_zpsf3113ff2.jpg.html)

I also put the fuel tank together using a DW200 fuel pump. It was kind of a PITA to install, but I finally got it to fit just right. I test fit a layer of EZ cool on the bottom of the tank to aid in sound deadening and heat (another stolen idea).

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20131228_173631_zpsa2a6dc87.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20131228_173631_zpsa2a6dc87.jpg.html)

The manual says to rivet the lower firewall to the floor pan. I don't like this idea as it will essentially permanently install the fuel tank. I think I'm going to go with an nut & bolt setup instead in order to have the option to remove the fuel tank if I ever need to.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20131228_174700_zps4c9d2e3e.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20131228_174700_zps4c9d2e3e.jpg.html)

Depending on my work schedule, I'm hoping to install the engine/trans this coming week.

GUNS

12-31-2013, 04:59 PM

Erik W. Treves

12-31-2013, 05:08 PM

I had/have the same issue....I just went slow and it finally went in. I also put a socket on the crank and rotated that while I tried to line it up...it never did slide in like I am use to.

kkotecki

12-31-2013, 05:10 PM

ok guys, need a little help with mating the trans and engine back together. I've got everything lined up and all bolts threaded, but I'm getting a lot of resistance from the bolts as I get the trans & engine close. I fear that I've already done some damage to the threads and don't want to do anymore.

Any ideas?

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/20131231_165518_zpsbd339479.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/20131231_165518_zpsbd339479.jpg.html)

my guess is would be the trans output shaft that is splinded is not aligning with the splines on the clutch plate. it took some wiggling on mine to put it together. sometimes when you reassemble the clutch and pressure plate there is an alignment tool. I just eye balled center

GUNS

12-31-2013, 05:12 PM

Thanks for the response Eric, that makes me feel a little better. I just hate wrenching on bolts that are fighting back. I definitely cross threaded one of nuts that goes on one of the lower studs. The stud actually unthreaded from the bell housing.

Erik W. Treves

12-31-2013, 05:44 PM

Well you might need to back the tranny off and wiggle and try and poke it back in

Bob_n_Cincy

12-31-2013, 06:00 PM

Hey Guns,
There are two 10mm alignment pins that are use for the last 1/2" of travel. Are they damaged or corroded?
Bob

GUNS

12-31-2013, 06:39 PM

Nope, they are fine and are all lined up.

Erik W. Treves

12-31-2013, 07:35 PM

yeah know...I just noticed...you have the starter in ....I typically wait until the tranny is seated before I install the starter. This allows me to move the flywheel ever so slightly to get the clutch disk onto the input shaft of the tranny....

RM1SepEx

12-31-2013, 09:05 PM

Mine was a PITA too, it took a ton of wiggling. I'd remove the starter too and work really slowly clamping it together with the bolts.

Mechie3

12-31-2013, 11:01 PM

Two of the bolts are longer than the others. I use these to pull the top together without the starter. After it's done and together I remove those bolts, put the starter back in and then bolt it together.

metalmaker12

01-01-2014, 12:44 AM

GUNS

01-02-2014, 01:02 PM

Thanks for the advice guys. I got it very close to sealing by slowing tightening each bolt and just when i thought I had it, one of the bolts stripped. So I took removed all the bolts, released the fork and bearing and tried to back the trans off the engine...and now it's stuck. I have a good couple of inches of separation from the bell housing to the engine, but it won't budge. I can wiggle around a bit, but it seems like the output shaft is hung up. I tried using a pry bar, but it only goes so far before I get a lot of resistance. I'm really hoping I didn't cross thread the splines or anything. Any ideas?

Bob_n_Cincy

01-02-2014, 01:47 PM

Guns
If you have a couple of inches between the engine and transmission, you can loosen the clutch cover bolts. The will allow the clutch disk to float and should let you pull off the transmission.
See if someone else replies here also to see if my suggestion makes sense.
Bob

GUNS

01-02-2014, 01:53 PM

Thanks Bob. I actually just did that. Got the trans off and looks like I did indeed cross-thread the splines, so now the clutch/pressure plate are stuck on the output shaft. I need to figure out how to get those off and assess how badly I damaged the output shaft. Suck.

Mechie3

01-02-2014, 01:53 PM

GUNS

01-02-2014, 01:56 PM

What style of clutch? If it's a pull clutch, the bearing might have already locked onto the pressure plate. you'll have to remove teh plug on the side of teh trans near the fork and release the fork from the bearing.

Yea, i had already released the bearing. Not sure if maybe it got stuck on the pressure plate, but from what I can see i don't think it did.

GUNS

01-21-2014, 06:48 PM

Welp, I learned some lessons the hard way, but I was lucky that there was minimal damage. Turns out the I did cross-thread the output shaft and clutch splines which essentially fused the clutch disk to the output shaft. The clutch had to get torched to be removed, but the splines on the output shaft were not damaged. So in the end I got away with just needing a new clutch disk...could have been much worse. So as advice to anyone else doing this, make sure you use a clutch alignment tool. I did not the first time around which lead to my "issue." Because of the miss-alignment, I also stripped the threads in the engine block. I had to install Heli-Coils in all holes.

With that being said, I finally got everything back together and got the engine & trans installed:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140121_133048_zps2yriktlk.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140121_133048_zps2yriktlk.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140121_133158_zps68pnfmrd.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140121_133158_zps68pnfmrd.jpg.html)

The install was pretty straight forward due to the advice of others.

I was also able to get the radiator installed and plumbed.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140121_175243_zpswk4u96x2.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140121_175243_zpswk4u96x2.jpg.html)

Even with using the sifter bushings as spacers for the bottom of the radiator, I still had clearance issues with the lower Rad hose and the steering rack boot. So I installed a simple hose clamp that hold the corrugated hose up just enough to clear (hard to tell in the pic, but there's about 1/4 in of clearance):

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140121_163118_zpsmg2yxrlw.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140121_163118_zpsmg2yxrlw.jpg.html)

I struggled with the hose adapters for a bit until I figured it out. The hose adapters come with sleeves. Remove the larger diameter one and discard. This is where the corrugated hose will go. Use plenty of dish soap to help get them on.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140120_134241_zpsohdmbbgf.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140120_134241_zpsohdmbbgf.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140120_134253_zpsbr7nijkh.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140120_134253_zpsbr7nijkh.jpg.html)

GUNS

01-21-2014, 06:48 PM

(continued)

I also recommend connected the inner sleeve to the steel tube while it's off the car. Install the inner sleeve first and then install the outer portion. I made the end of the tube flush with the inner sleeve to leave enough room for the corrugated tube.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140121_165058_zpswm2j5qzu.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140121_165058_zpswm2j5qzu.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140121_165318_zps5gkpsagz.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140121_165318_zps5gkpsagz.jpg.html)

Here it is all done:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140121_175312_zps4s41p36v.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140121_175312_zps4s41p36v.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140121_175322_zpscq8h3v8v.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140121_175322_zpscq8h3v8v.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140121_175733_zpszmwkvx8y.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140121_175733_zpszmwkvx8y.jpg.html)

FFRSpec72

01-21-2014, 06:59 PM

FFR's radiator hose setup is nasty on the Cobra and it is nasty here also, which they would learn

metalmaker12

01-21-2014, 07:23 PM

Not to tell you to move the drivers front flex line, but it should go on the inside of frame and the aluminum wheel wells. They are rather thin and can get damaged easy.

GUNS

01-21-2014, 07:28 PM

Not to tell you to move the drivers front flex line, but it should go on the inside of frame and the aluminum wheel wells. They are rather thin and can get damaged easy.

Thanks for the tip, I'll take a look at moving it. I wish the manual would have stated where to route them :/

metalmaker12

01-21-2014, 07:34 PM

look at my thread and others, pm me anytime man

GUNS

01-21-2014, 08:01 PM

Thanks Metal, I appreciate the help. I typically look through threads before starting a new section, but I sometimes miss things. It looks like it should be a relatively easy fix.

metalmaker12

01-21-2014, 09:23 PM

Yea it's no biggy, it is looking clean so keep up the good work!!

nkw8181

01-21-2014, 11:34 PM

Looks like I found another good build thread that I missed and now must follow. keep up the good work!!

GUNS

01-22-2014, 07:54 PM

Re-routed my coolant hoses based on Metalmaker's suggestion. Zip ties are temporary, I'll work some kind of bracket similar to the one above.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140122_194730_zps2mvlle3f.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140122_194730_zps2mvlle3f.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140122_194748_zpsoovtueuw.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140122_194748_zpsoovtueuw.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140122_194801_zpsk1pifrbp.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140122_194801_zpsk1pifrbp.jpg.html)

Mechie3

01-22-2014, 10:35 PM

I bought more of the orange silicone coated P clamps from mcmaster to hold my hoses.

FFRSpec72

01-22-2014, 10:51 PM

Re-routed my coolant hoses based on Metalmaker's suggestion. Zip ties are temporary, I'll work some kind of bracket similar to the one above.

I wish there was a better way to do the hoses, as the flex hose does not hold up, as after a year on the track with my challenge car I had to replace all the stock flex hose, lucky with the challenge car I could find real hoses that worked, but here with the run so long it will be impossible, someone just has to make something

Is that the stock WRX fan on the radiator ?

Erik W. Treves

01-22-2014, 11:07 PM

the hose on driver's side at the back it too far back, it will run into the wheel well aluminum if you install it. I cut about 6 inches off the end of the aluminum tube so the coupling is where you have the clamp.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=19882&d=1374361459

Mechie3

01-23-2014, 07:07 AM

I wish there was a better way to do the hoses, as the flex hose does not hold up, as after a year on the track with my challenge car I had to replace all the stock flex hose, lucky with the challenge car I could find real hoses that worked, but here with the run so long it will be impossible, someone just has to make something

Is that the stock WRX fan on the radiator ?

Mike everson made some bent hard lines that replace all flex hose. He has a thread in the general 818 section with details.

GUNS

01-23-2014, 07:45 AM

Erik, thanks for the point out. I noticed that too and was planning on trimming it down if needed.

FFRSpec72

01-23-2014, 10:41 AM

Mike everson made some bent hard lines that replace all flex hose. He has a thread in the general 818 section with details.

Look real nice, but expen$ive (more that I can afford) ! Time to go to my roll cage builder and have him bend some aluminum tubing, even better may be a long run of the Gates Green Stripe® Wire Inserted Coolant hose would be better than the FFR setup and you don't have to worry about all the connections and hose clamps and @ about $10 foot still cheaper.

longislandwrx

02-03-2014, 08:31 AM

What's the diameter of your cooling pipe that runs along the side?

I think mine is thicker hence me having a hard time with the thicker adapter. The thin ones seem like a better fit.

GUNS

04-19-2014, 03:18 PM

Hey guys, been a while since I've posted or even worked on the car. I just got back from a short deployment, so needless to say the 818 hasn't been worked on in the last 2 months.

Since I've been back I've been working on the brake/clutch lines. It could be cleaner in places, but overall I'm pretty happy with the result. Any opinions on if I mounted the rear lines too high? I miss-interpreted the manual and I wanted to keep the flex lines away from the axles/suspension pieces. It visually appears that it won't be a factor for the aluminum wheel well. Thoughts?

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140419_154055_zpso9bmqpcb.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140419_154055_zpso9bmqpcb.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140419_154102_zps7sae5hhj.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140419_154102_zps7sae5hhj.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140419_155611_zpszxkzyscc.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140419_155611_zpszxkzyscc.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140419_155622_zpsdsaqpbah.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140419_155622_zpsdsaqpbah.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140419_155635_zpsqr12zbd9.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140419_155635_zpsqr12zbd9.jpg.html)

Scargo

04-19-2014, 05:08 PM

I don't like seeing the brake line close to the exhaust. Perhaps the photo gives a false impression of the distance. I'd like to see you add some rubber tubing over the line where the line is near edges on the frame or move it away from those edges. Otherwise it looks pretty good. I still have trouble accepting the master cylinder tilt...

GUNS

04-19-2014, 05:55 PM

Yea I was a little worried about the proximity of the lines to the exhaust as well. At most, it's about 2 in way.

GUNS

04-19-2014, 05:56 PM

Yea I was a little worried about the proximity of the lines to the exhaust as well. It's not as bad as the pics make it out to be, but it's about 2 inches away.

Scargo

04-19-2014, 07:32 PM

My whole focus is a race car. This may be extreme for a street car.
With my STi I worry about power steering lines, oil lines and wiring that are near the exhaust. I've seen a friend's STi catch on fire when the oil lines near the headers couldn't take the heat of constant track use. My STi caught on fire when the up-pipe exhaust sprung a leak and overheated nearby plastic. Everthing was so hot. When I pulled into the pits to get gas it got hotter. So much so that it started burning.
Then there's always the fuel supply and heat, vibration and pressure that's exerted on it. I've found tiny little leaks in my AN fittings that were obvious from either being moist or having collected dust; probably just in time to prevent it from being a big problem. I just read in NASIOC that mounting your aftermarket fuel pressure regulator on the engine is a bad idea. Vibration of the steel ball on the seat will eat up the aluminum seat and cause irregular fuel pressure. I believe it. There's a lot to think about when building one of these.

Mechie3

04-19-2014, 09:08 PM

Looks like I'll be relocating my fpr perhaps. Though it seemed to be fine being on my motor the last 5 years.

Xusia

04-19-2014, 09:42 PM

fpr?

Mechie3

04-20-2014, 06:52 AM

Fuel pressure regulator.

Scargo

04-20-2014, 08:05 AM

Looks like I'll be relocating my fpr perhaps. Though it seemed to be fine being on my motor the last 5 years.
Perhaps your motor's perfectly balanced? :cool: Perhaps you located it in the engine's feng shui spot of serenity?
Ever ride in a DeHaviland Beaver? I used to be an aircraft instrument tech. I built new instruments for Aerosonic but I also did overhauls on other items. Light aircraft (and more so helicopters) are very hard on instrumentation and controllers. It was required that we use silicone fluid around most pivot points to dampen the effects of vibration and reduce wear. Sometimes more serious solutions were required. My FPR on the STi is on the firewall and I use a silicone filled pressure gauge so it won't self-destruct.