GUNS' 818SR Build Thread

[GUNS]

Scargo, thanks for the advice. I'll look into making up some sort of heat shield or something for that line. The line is also a little close to the exhaust as it runs along the bottom of the rear firewall.

Here's how I did my clutch line. Like others, I did not go below the intake manifold. I followed the driver side rear line and continued toward the trans. I used the stock mounting bracket and installed a Riv-Nut on the frame.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140419_174047_zpswfsdnmgr.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140419_174047_zpswfsdnmgr.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140419_174103_zpspsm9ezeo.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140419_174103_zpspsm9ezeo.jpg.html)

[GUNS]

Got some more work done today. I used the "longislandwrx" method of mounting the shifter. I had to trim the sides of the housing a bit to make the hole align with the trans tunnel, but other than that it worked like a champ!

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140422_185237_zpsfve4mdx6.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140422_185237_zpsfve4mdx6.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140422_185253_zpsoenxbdzt.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140422_185253_zpsoenxbdzt.jpg.html)

And with the tunnel cover loosely mounted:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140423_184305_zpswtj5nrla.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140423_184305_zpswtj5nrla.jpg.html)


I was able to get the shifter cable to hook up, but I'm not happy with how they are routed coming out of the fire wall. Anybody have suggestions on how to route them? Mine rub on the bottom of the steering u-joint.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140423_184328_zpsdtjc31e5.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140423_184328_zpsdtjc31e5.jpg.html)

Thanks!

[GUNS]

Can't believe it's been a month since I posted an update. I've been busy with work and trips and just haven't been able to put as much time into the build as I would like.

I hooked up all of the fuel lines and vacuum lines and started on the wiring harness. I also did Wayne's de-gas mod as well:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140522_103113_zpsvys2fiiz.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140522_103113_zpsvys2fiiz.jpg.html)

I tried to bleed my clutch today and ran into a slight issue....I think. Without fluid, the clutch pedal snaps to the floor and you have to pull it back up manually. I bled most of the air out and now when you depress the clutch, it goes about half way and it feels like a lot of resistance. I'm afraid it may be a release bearing issue, but everything seemed to go fine on the install so I'm a little baffled. Any inputs?

[metalmaker12]

You still have air in the line I bet. Make sure it is very full, Have a friend pump it and hold to get any air out ,or Vacum bleed it and see if need be.

[STiPWRD]

If it is indeed the clutch release bearing, it may be due to aluminum that has worn away around the surface that the bearing slides on (this is a common problem on high mileage transmissions). The bearing slides on metal that is a part of the transmission housing and sticks out around the input shaft. When it wears away, it can cause the release bearing to bind or tilt - this can lead to an inconsistent feel in the clutch pedal. I actually have this problem with my trans and for the longest time I couldn't figure out why I kept breaking pressure plates and having to replace them. I'll be buying this repair kit:

http://www.42autosports.com/Transmission-Snout-Repair-Sleeve-TSK2-by-Tranquil-Transmissions_p_631.html

I'm not sure how many miles are on your trans but lets hope its just air in your system.

[GUNS]

Metalmaker,

There is definitely still air in the system, but what I'm trying to describe doesn't sound like an air problem. There is enough pressure for the slave cylinder to push on the clutch fork, but it gets to a certain point and stops. With that being said, how much should I be able to move the fork by hand?

Trans has 125k miles on it and worked great before I took my donor apart.

Thanks for the help guys, hoping it's an easy fix.

[Mechie3]

For my shifter cables I used some of the P clamps to route the. Anything that can vibrate will and will eventually wear holes in other things or itself.

[GUNS]

Welp, I put the clutch bleeding on hold for a bit and spent the long weekend working on the wiring harness. This has definitely been the most daunting part of the build for me. I have very limited experience with electrical work. The obvious choice would be to go with one of the harness solutions provided by vendors here, but as good as the quality looks, I just can't justify the $2k plus price tag.

So with that being said, I decided to try and tackle this myself. I was able to delete the ABS, airbags, and door card wiring. In total it was about 11 lbs:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140526_190640_zpsiiuvr2iu.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140526_190640_zpsiiuvr2iu.jpg.html)

Anything beyond this looked to me to be too complicated and time consuming to be worth the extra bulk and weight savings IMO. I decided to attempt to install the harness, mostly complete and accept that I will have extra bulk and connectors not connected to anything. So far it looks like a mess, but I'm pretty sure I have identified 99% of the connectors and have connected the ones needing connecting.

I started out by just sort of draping the harness over the frame to figure out of things would be routed:
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140523_161826_zpszogfseev.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140523_161826_zpszogfseev.jpg.html)

I then started routing the harnesses as required (with the exception of the section that goes to the Rad/headlights).

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140526_164021_zps9jy5mzga.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140526_164021_zps9jy5mzga.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140526_164016_zpsaatslp0g.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140526_164016_zpsaatslp0g.jpg.html)


I ran the positive battery cable and extended the yellow starter wire that plugs into the connector on the starter. The manual talks about extending two more red starter wires the I guess originate from the fuse box and end up connecting to where the batter cable does. Can anyone elaborate on this? These wires weren't run like this on the WRX correct? The wiring diagram only shows the battery cable and yellow starter wire (as depicted below) What's the need for it now?

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140526_164042_zpsdslgbmua.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140526_164042_zpsdslgbmua.jpg.html)


Also, where's everyone running their negative cable from the battery? Just attaching to the frame up front somewhere?

Once I'm confident everything is working properly, I'm going to bundle it all up and tuck it away to make it a bit neater

Thanks for the help guys, I'm feeling a bit more confident with this, but still not comfortable.

[metalmaker12]

Looks good man, your doing fine man

[AZPete]

Guns, just do it bit by bit, terminal by terminal, and you'll be fine. I'm electrically challenged and scared of wiring but I tackled the OE harnesses. Last week I finally just hooked up my battery and there was no smoke! Everything works and it's a great feeling! You'll be fine if you take your time and use Mechie3's pics and the wiring diagram.

[tmoretta]

What model Corbeau seats are those? Are they mounted super low?

[jontexas]

Metalmaker,

There is definitely still air in the system, but what I'm trying to describe doesn't sound like an air problem. There is enough pressure for the slave cylinder to push on the clutch fork, but it gets to a certain point and stops. With that being said, how much should I be able to move the fork by hand?

Trans has 125k miles on it and worked great before I took my donor apart.

Thanks for the help guys, hoping it's an easy fix.

I totally couldn't move the clutch fork by hand to actually actuate the clutch. Hooking the engine and tranny back and trying to get the fork and all installed right isn't something I'm especially looking forward to.

[GUNS]

Thanks again for the support. I'm fairly confident I could fiure out the complete harness diet, especially with the help of this forum. Wayne's main selling point for his harness solution is "what's your time worth?" My answer to that is about 20lbs of extra weight and bulk. So I'm perfectly fine with leaving my harness mainly intact....assuming everything works. In addition to my other electrical questions a few posts above, does anyone know what to do with this ground strap? It was included with the fuel electrical components.
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140529_102237_zpsmja4hqxx.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140529_102237_zpsmja4hqxx.jpg.html)

The clutch fork install seemed to go fine when I installed it. If I push it towards the front of the car by hand, it has a "springy" feeling to it as if it is working properly. I'll mess with it later, it may just be a pedal adjustment or something.

Seats are FX1 Pros. They are pretty low, but not on the floor. If I remove the bottom cushion, the top of my helmet is pretty much level with the roll bar. Not too happy about that, but not sure what else to do. I don't think mounting them directly to the floor will buy me much.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20131212_165651_zpsfq7czwl3.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20131212_165651_zpsfq7czwl3.jpg.html)

[07FIREBLADE]

You could gain whatever the thickness of your seat bracket mount by putting the flat stock on top of the seat bracket when mounting the seats that way you don't gain height. What did you use 1/4 steel or 3/8 aluminum? That's what I did for my seat mounts.

[longislandwrx]

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20131212_165651_zpsfq7czwl3.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20131212_165651_zpsfq7czwl3.jpg.html)

Looks like you can cut off the integrated mounts and drop it down another inch or so using the side mounts


Ground strap connects fuel cap to frame.

[Rasmus]

Ground strap connects fuel cap to frame.
That's why I don't rub balloons on my head when fueling up. Zap! (Mythbusters be damned)

[GUNS]

Thanks again for all of the help so far. I've been busy with work and other projects, but hopefully this week I can track down all of the grounds and get some life into this thing.

As far as the seats, I never thought about cutting off the integrated mounts...I might have to try that. Also, to answer the question above, I used 1/4 in steel for the mounts.

[GUNS]

Power!

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140602_174400_zpsxczkscky.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140602_174400_zpsxczkscky.jpg.html)


Next step is to cleanup up a few items to get ready for the first start! After that I'll bundle up the harness and get ready for the first drive.

In prep for the first start, I have a few questions. From what I can tell, the heater core outlets need to be looped, correct? Fortunately, I labeled these when I dissembled. Can you guys verify that what I did is correct? Follow the hose with the blue tape:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140602_182853_zpsbvnz9jrf.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140602_182853_zpsbvnz9jrf.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140602_182907_zpskipkyo38.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140602_182907_zpskipkyo38.jpg.html)

Also, anyone know what this goes to?

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140602_182916_zpsylrs1yoo.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140602_182916_zpsylrs1yoo.jpg.html)

While looking at the above pic, those supplied fuel line quick disconnects don't seem too secure...is this normal?

Thanks guys!

[AZPete]

I believe that open tube in your last photo is the vacuum line to the brake booster - plug it.

I agree that the white plastic fuel line connectors look cheap and flimsy but they work and don't leak. I've started my engine (Woohoo!) and run it quite a bit with no leaks, gas or otherwise.

[GUNS]

I believe that open tube in your last photo is the vacuum line to the brake booster - plug it.

I agree that the white plastic fuel line connectors look cheap and flimsy but they work and don't leak. I've started my engine (Woohoo!) and run it quite a bit with no leaks, gas or otherwise.

Awesome, thanks for the response!

[Scargo]

LOL... You have the "Green Brackets of Death!" Ditch those.

RE, me saying I blocked off my heater lines: I used a 1/4" pipe tap and plugged my air pump exhaust outlets on the heads when I deleted all that mess related to emissions control.
I did not mean to say I blocked the (water) heater connections in the block. I still run those to the heater in the STi and will have to do the U or similar in my 818. Sorry for my confusion.

[wleehendrick]

I believe I used a 1/4" pipe tap and plugged my heater connections in the block. Nothing fancy/no expensive plates.

I've read blocking the heater core connections can cause overheating; it's recommended to loop them. The kit comes with a U-hose for this.

[GUNS]

I've read blocking the heater core connections can cause overheating; it's recommended to loop them. The kit comes with a U-hose for this.

No U Hose included in my kit. I have a 02 donor if that makes a difference. The pics above shows the hose I used to "loop." Mine looks different than others I've seen on here.

[Scargo]

See my post above. This post can be removed...

[07FIREBLADE]

I also have a 02, I used a coolant crossover off of a 06 so I could loop the lines with the U shaped hose provide with my kit.

[C.Plavan]

LOL... You have the "Green Brackets of Death!" Ditch those.

LOL! Those were the first things I saw and I made "Oooooooohhhhh" sound at the computer screen when I saw them. :)

[Rasmus]

I weighed those too and posted it on Nabisco:


Sorting through the shed I found an old sin I never weighed properly:

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/SubaruParts/IMG_4922_zps58f81e54.jpg
Green Brackets of Death and hardware weight from a 2004 WRX. Whopping 2.130 kg*.

*Yes, I tared out the old sign on which the GBoD sit.

[GUNS]

It's alive!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p0Yh6Lhufz8

My Niece came down to act as my crew chief

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140618_163923_zpsgyqoetu4.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140618_163923_zpsgyqoetu4.jpg.html)

The first start went pretty well! I do have a small leak in one of the corrugated hoses coming off the lower radiator and I had a fuel leak at one of the injectors. Just replaced with a new O ring and fired it right up!

[Frank818]

Looks like the video is private. Must be a very sexy or porn-like video. lolll

[GUNS]

Fixed, thanks.

[Frank818]

Seemed to have started/cranked pretty fast. Is that the sound it will have once all will be done? Oh, no sorry, I see your turbo outlet it opened. Keep up the good work, soon on the road! :)

[AZPete]

CONGRATS! Starting the engine is a big milestone that proves you did hundreds of things right - mechanical and electrical. Your Crew Chief is proud of you.

[GUNS]

Been a while since I've been able to work on it. I thought I fixed my throw out bearing issue, but apparently I didn't. Can anyone help me with this? When I move the clutch fork towards the rear of the car, the throw out bearing engages with the flywheel. When the clutch is pushed in, it's almost as if the bearing is dislodged as you can see in the video. I can re-seat it, but it happens every time. I'm really hoping this is an easy fix, but I'm not sure what else to do at the moment without having to remove the trans and look around.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JqtPoXD4nUo

[metalmaker12]

Looks like the bearing is not seating properly and the clutch is not putting pressure on arm. Push arm all the way up with a breaker bar and turn over, it might lock in. Let me know what happens.

[GUNS]

Welp, I took a few steps back. Turns out I somehow damaged the lock ring on the pressure plate that the throw out bearing locks into. The only way to fix it is to pull the trans and replace the pressure plate. The good news out of this is that when I pulled the trans I noticed I had a leak from my passenger side axle seal, so I went ahead and fixed that. Also, removing the trans with the engine in the car isn't too bad. hopefully putting it back together won't be too hard as well. Overall it shouldn't set me back too far, still kind of frustrating though.

On a side note, where is everyone mounting their coolant overflow tank? The manual says to mount in in the engine bay, but I see a lot of people mounting it up front on the driver's side of the radiator. I have mine in the back right now. Thanks.

[C.Plavan]

On a side note, where is everyone mounting their coolant overflow tank? The manual says to mount in in the engine bay, but I see a lot of people mounting it up front on the driver's side of the radiator. I have mine in the back right now. Thanks.

I have one on each end. Back and front. The stock overflow on the radiator, and I bought a unit from Summit with a sight glass for the rear degas tank. No issues with my limited running.

[RM1SepEx]

I have tanks at both ends as well... Not sure where my second tank came from, it was in my garage pile o parts

[GUNS]

Hey guys, thanks for the quick replies. Are two tanks required or just desired? I believe the one that comes of the radiator was capped on my donor.

[wallace18]

Hey guys, thanks for the quick replies. Are two tanks required or just desired? I believe the one that comes of the radiator was capped on my donor.
I did 2 so I did not have to run a line from the tank above the engine back to the front of the car. I got a spare at the u-pick it junk yard for 3 bucks.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I see a problem with 2 tanks. What if: Each time you get the engine hot it dump water in tank #1. Then it cools and suck fluid back in out of tank #2. Repeat a couple of time and you pushing out water on the track out of tank #1 vent and sucking air back in out of empty tank#2.

The front tank cap should be a sealed type.
Bob

[waruaki]

One tank on mine mounted at the rear, flawless so far. My radiator is capped off except for the primary hoses to and from the water pump of coarse.
31556

[Goldwing]

I see a problem with 2 tanks. What if: Each time you get the engine hot it dump water in tank #1. Then it cools and suck fluid back in out of tank #2. Repeat a couple of time and you pushing out water on the track out of tank #1 vent and sucking air back in out of empty tank#2.

The front tank cap should be a sealed type.
Bob

Good point Bob!
My radiator came with a slightly higher pressure cap, but I think your thought of a sealed cap in front might be the way to go. I felt water coming out was controlled with the different caps, but going back in? A crap shoot, it seems. I guess the solution is a sealed cap at one end or plumbing both overflow lines to one bottle. Good thoughts.

[C.Plavan]

I see a problem with 2 tanks. What if: Each time you get the engine hot it dump water in tank #1. Then it cools and suck fluid back in out of tank #2. Repeat a couple of time and you pushing out water on the track out of tank #1 vent and sucking air back in out of empty tank#2.

The front tank cap should be a sealed type.
Bob

I have warmed up my motor a bunch of times wondering that. Both front and rear tanks have stabilized and have not moved after a bunch of cycles.

[GUNS]

Good discussion. I think I'm going to run the one tank in the rear for now and see how it works out.

[metalmaker12]

I see a problem with 2 tanks. What if: Each time you get the engine hot it dump water in tank #1. Then it cools and suck fluid back in out of tank #2. Repeat a couple of time and you pushing out water on the track out of tank #1 vent and sucking air back in out of empty tank#2.

The front tank cap should be a sealed type.


Bob


You might be on to something, nick and I have discussed this also

[K3LAG]

You might be on to something, nick and I have discussed this also

Wayne mentioned the same likelihood to me as well.

Larry

[GUNS]

I was able to get my trans all back together and all in all it went relatively uneventful and now the clutch works as it should. I'm not too sure about the shifter though, it almost feels as if it's binding a bit and getting it into 5th/reverse is very difficult. Anybody have any tips on shifter adjustment?

Also, I attempted burping the cooling system. I tried following Wayne's methods of holding up the Radiator while filling and then also tapped into the return line to the degas tank. This is my first time ever doing a coolant burp, so I'm not sure if I'm doing it correctly or not.

At idle, the water temps sit right around 190 ish. If I rev it up a bit (2-3k, just for a few seconds) and let it idle again, the water temps begin to climb past 225. I usually shut it off at this point. Of note I only have 1 Radiator fan working at the moment. Also, the return side (passenger side) coolant lines get very hot and the driver side is still cool. I'm assuming there's still air in the system, but not sure what else to do. T

Thanks guys.

[AZPete]

If you haven't done so already, run the engine until it is warm, shut it off and let it cool completely. Next, top up the coolant reservoir. Repeat this over and over - run, cool, top-up - until warm water is circulating fully and the temp gauge stays steady without overheating. You may have to repeat this ten times or so.

[C.Plavan]

If you haven't done so already, run the engine until it is warm, shut it off and let it cool completely. Next, top up the coolant reservoir. Repeat this over and over - run, cool, top-up - until warm water is circulating fully and the temp gauge stays steady without overheating. You may have to repeat this ten times or so.

+1

I did the same thing and it worked. 3 or 4 times for me.

[GUNS]

Thanks guys. I've done it a few times, but maybe not enough. It does seem to be getting a bit better. Also, do you leave the cap off the coolant reservoir?

[AZPete]

Cap on when running. Once cooled down remove the cap to add more coolant, cap back on, run . . . repeat.

When I was doing this my wife said, "Geez, I know you are proud that the engine runs but do you have to start it every time you walk past it?" Yup. :o

[GUNS]

Yup after further review, I DON'T recommend doing the cap off...makes a mess! Oh well, I'm getting there. Thanks again for all the help guys, not sure what I'd do without this community.

[Frank818]

When I was doing this my wife said, "Geez, I know you are proud that the engine runs but do you have to start it every time you walk past it?" Yup. :o

Good one Pete, good one. :)

[Frank818]

Yup after further review, I DON'T recommend doing the cap off...makes a mess! Oh well, I'm getting there. Thanks again for all the help guys, not sure what I'd do without this community.

The system is pressurized when it's warm. So if you remove the cap... psssssschhhhhtttttttttttt lolll You laugh hey, but one day I shut down the engine, forgot I did (how??), went to the coolant reservoir to add some in, removed the cap and even before I could totally remove it, it made a big pscht and a mess around. I got sprayed with hot coolant and some of the engine bay as well. That thing is like slime, it's hard to remove and sticks. Glycol, that is.

[GUNS]

The system is pressurized when it's warm. So if you remove the cap... psssssschhhhhtttttttttttt lolll You laugh hey, but one day I shut down the engine, forgot I did (how??), went to the coolant reservoir to add some in, removed the cap and even before I could totally remove it, it made a big pscht and a mess around. I got sprayed with hot coolant and some of the engine bay as well. That thing is like slime, it's hard to remove and sticks. Glycol, that is.

Ha, yea I read somewhere that leaving the cap off helps with burping...not the case. As the coolant gets hot it starts to boil and makes a mess!

[Frank818]

As the coolant gets hot it starts to boil and makes a mess!

Right on. That's what I've always seen, though. Not that I tried on purpose!

[metalmaker12]

Don't feel bad FFR let john Jorge drive off in the blue R and the cap was not on all the way. This is after the red one blew up.

[Frank818]

Don't feel bad FFR let john Jorge drive off in the blue R and the cap was not on all the way. This is after the red one blew up.

Talk about a bad day, hey.

[GUNS]

After a few heat cycles everything seems to be working great. Water temp stays right around 190 ish at idle.

Car fires right up and seems to be running great. I do have a code relating to fuel level sensor, so I must have wired it up wrong. Other than that, I just need to figure out my shift linkage, button up some wiring, torque the suspension and get ready to drive this thing!

[GUNS]

It Moves!!! Don't mind the part in the middle where I had to stop to pick up my flip flop...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQT7muXxzGc

[wleehendrick]

:cool: Congrats! That driveway is going to be hell when you get your body on. :(

[wleehendrick]

:cool: Congrats! That driveway is going to be hell when you get your body on. :(


P.S. like the Beemer; my wife has a Le Mans Blue 135i

[Frank818]

That guy with the basketball didn't seem to care at all. :(

[GUNS]

:cool: Congrats! That driveway is going to be hell when you get your body on. :(

Yea no kidding. I was surprised it didn't scrape in go-kart form. I may end up buying one of these: http://www.amazon.com/BRIDJIT-Expandable-Curb-Driveway-Coverage/dp/B0042HOE5O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407542083&sr=8-1&keywords=driveway+curb+ramps

I'm loving my 335i. I bough it off of a friend who had to move and sold it at a great price. Definitely more entertaining to drive than my truck everyday.

[metalmaker12]

It Moves!!! Don't mind the part in the middle where I had to stop to pick up my flip flop...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQT7muXxzGc

You won't get up that lip with the body on, I would make a ramp for that or buy the setup you posted. Everything shifting well, you have 3.5quarts of fluid in tranny? Looks like fun!! My motors going to machine shop and getting its rehab

[Harley818]

Hey Guns, nice build. not sure if I missed it but what are you using for header, exhaust routing and muffler? Sounds good. equal length or unequal?
Thanks

[GUNS]

Harley, not sure what I'm going to use as a final solution, but this is how the stock engine sounds without an exhaust. I basically just bolted up the little elbow that FFR provides to the turbo and left it like that.

[longislandwrx]

did you lose any gas going around those corners?

[GUNS]

did you lose any gas going around those corners?

Not that I noticed, but my Fuel Level sender isn't working. Must have wired it up wrong.

[GUNS]

Been working when I can to clean everything up before I start on the body. I took it on another drive...man is this thing going to be awesome when it's dialed in. Even without an alignment it handles awesome! Steering is so light and precise. The chassis responds immediately with little to no roll!! Stock turbo w/ a stage 2 tune feels very responsive. Very similar to my MKIV Supra I had; useable low end torque and tons of acceleration when boost builds. Granted, I'm limited to driving it in my neighborhood and I'm still breaking in a new clutch and flywheel, but so far so good.

I spent some time cleaning up the electrical harness. There is a lot of bulk, but I was able to make it all fit. I'll post pics when it's all done.

I also replaced the passenger side valve cover gasket and hopefully that fixes my oil leak.

In addition, I finally figured out my fuel level issue. As always, the manual does a poor job on what to splice where, hence my initial confusion. With that said here's a diagram for how to wire this up for an 02 donor.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/818fuellevelsplice_zpse60a2e03.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/818fuellevelsplice_zpse60a2e03.jpg.html)

[GUNS]

Santa came! Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 17x8 +35 front and 18x9 +35 rear. Planning on running 215/40/17 front 255/35/18 rear. Hopefully it fits!

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140821_111608_zpsp8f86ijq.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140821_111608_zpsp8f86ijq.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140821_111633_zps4of21jxv.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140821_111633_zps4of21jxv.jpg.html)

[thall818]

Nice wheels. I am planning the same wheel/tire size. Can't wait to see if they fit.

[GUNS]

Welp, I've been making some progress on the 818. I spent some time working on the interior. I hacked up the fiberglass center console and added some aluminum to help with the extreme passenger foot well area. Still not perfect, but I think it will be fine once carpeted. I also installed the dash and windshield frame.

Today I mounted the rear bumper and side panels and loosely hung some other panels. I'm happy to say that my panels look to be pretty decent and I'm thinking I can probably get away with a no paint finish, but after seeing Stickshift's plasti-dipped 818 I may re-consider. The other good news is that it looks like the rear wheels/tires fit perfect!

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140911_140750_zpsdi8qnhci.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140911_140750_zpsdi8qnhci.jpg.html)

So one thing I noticed is my driver side tire is about an inch closer to the front corner firewall than the passenger side and it rubs at full lock. I'm assuming this is due to the upper control arm modification that I followed the directions on. I'm still not sure what that mod was for and now it seems it has caused a conflict. Anyone else have a problem with this?

[metalmaker12]

Welp, I've been making some progress on the 818. I spent some time working on the interior. I hacked up the fiberglass center console and added some aluminum to help with the extreme passenger foot well area. Still not perfect, but I think it will be fine once carpeted. I also installed the dash and windshield frame.

Today I mounted the rear bumper and side panels and loosely hung some other panels. I'm happy to say that my panels look to be pretty decent and I'm thinking I can probably get away with a no paint finish, but after seeing Stickshift's plasti-dipped 818 I may re-consider. The other good news is that it looks like the rear wheels/tires fit perfect!

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140911_140750_zpsdi8qnhci.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140911_140750_zpsdi8qnhci.jpg.html)

So one thing I noticed is my driver side tire is about an inch closer to the front corner firewall than the passenger side and it rubs at full lock. I'm assuming this is due to the upper control arm modification that I followed the directions on. I'm still not sure what that mod was for and now it seems it has caused a conflict. Anyone else have a problem with this?

I have a fix for this, I couple spacers you put on the racks main shaft that the inner pass side tie rid bolts into. I can send them to you. I had the same issue, now it's perfect.
33451

Btw really like your wheels

[GUNS]

Thanks, PM sent!

[Frank818]

I have a fix for this, I couple spacers you put on the racks main shaft that the inner pass side tie rid bolts into. I can send them to you. I had the same issue, now it's perfect.
33451

You have to remove the rack or just the bellows?

[metalmaker12]

You have to remove the rack or just the bellows?

Just bellows and pass inner tie rod, they just make the rack unable to go further and even out the turns on both sides. This might be an early kit issue only, and you might not need em.

[Frank818]

Early kit issue, eh. Can only mean 2 things to me: either the frame would have been modified since, or rack mounts (if they can make a diff). Cuz the racks of course don't change from kit #10 to #200. :) I guess I'll find out.

GUNS, what kit number is yours, again?

[GUNS]

I have kit # 10 (I know, I'm way behind). While I'm aware the steering rack is offset in the early builds, I'm not convinced this is the problem. Would this bring the wheel closer to the center of the car? I would think not. I would think it would be more of a factor of the upper/lower control arms. I also don't have an alignment, so maybe it will make more sense then.

What was the problem that cutting the driver side upper control arm solved?

[Boog]

You could measure from the upper ball joint pivot to the front cockpit corner on each side. This should show you if the upper controls arms are the problem (by effectively adding a lot of caster one just one side).
If so, maybe ordering a new set of upper control arms with flat ball joint mounts is the way to go.

[metalmaker12]

Your upper control arms might be adjusted off as well and it will help draw the wheel out some when you adjust caster , but hitting on full lock is the rack being off center. So to answer everyone it's the rack that causes the rubbing issue when turning and a caster issue if it's (tire) closer/ further from frame or frontend. We need +4 caster correct ? It's early so I could be off with my memory.

[longislandwrx]

So one thing I noticed is my driver side tire is about an inch closer to the front corner firewall than the passenger side and it rubs at full lock. I'm assuming this is due to the upper control arm modification that I followed the directions on. I'm still not sure what that mod was for and now it seems it has caused a conflict.

Take a shot from above, and mark some measurements to static points from your mounts to the frame etc so others can compare. Also, take off you driver side UCA, and flip it over and put it on top of the passenger side and make sure its even (or just take good measurements) Make sure FFR didn't give you one straight ball joint mount and one angled.

[GUNS]

Been working on the body all weekend. Tedious, but making progress.

I finished up the rear for the most part. Like Mechie, my trunk lid did not come with the hinge brackets glassed in. FFR is sending me a new one and they're even going to make me a white one even though they are making red bodies now. Mechie's rear fender brace made lining up the engine cover and fenders much easier! Highly recommend buying one before you get to body fitting.

Overall I'm pretty happy with my gaps. Not perfect, but good enough for me and good enough for a track car.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140921_181448_zpswhmjehfa.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140921_181448_zpswhmjehfa.jpg.html)

I also got the doors mounted. I'm lucky that Wayne posted is How To right before I got to this. Had I followed the manual, the strikers would have been way off!

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140926_140152_zpsvxgnhrc8.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140926_140152_zpsvxgnhrc8.jpg.html)

Bolt the striker to the frame and line it up with the body (picture is post striker installed):

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140926_162452_zpsb7vxl9rr.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140926_162452_zpsb7vxl9rr.jpg.html)

Shine a light behind the bracket to see where the slots are, mark and drill:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140926_143857_zpsboejcfo3.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140926_143857_zpsboejcfo3.jpg.html)

For the front bumper, I had to trim the headlight buckets quite a bit to make them sit flush with the bumper. I also had to bend the crap out of the brackets that attach to the bottom of the bucket and front bumper (the bracket comes straight with the exception of the tabs):

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140929_140336_zpsi1dymwwa.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140929_140336_zpsi1dymwwa.jpg.html)

I had to notch out this part of the front bumper to get it to clear the frame. I actually took out a little bit more than what's pictured:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140929_114457_zpsijdxolbl.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140929_114457_zpsijdxolbl.jpg.html)

And here's where I leave it for now. Front end is all just clamped on for now. I need to spend some time lining everything up before drilling.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140929_174002_zpsduuljhaa.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140929_174002_zpsduuljhaa.jpg.html)

[Frank818]

Never realized you had the same tires as I do. They just kick behinds, I love em.

You pix don't show ANY gap issues. In fact I can't see anything wrong from being almost showcase, what am I missing then? Front hood too much forward? Probably not installed yet.

[Triathletedave]

Got some more work done today. I used the "longislandwrx" method of mounting the shifter. I had to trim the sides of the housing a bit to make the hole align with the trans tunnel, but other than that it worked like a champ!

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140422_185237_zpsfve4mdx6.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140422_185237_zpsfve4mdx6.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140422_185253_zpsoenxbdzt.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140422_185253_zpsoenxbdzt.jpg.html)

And with the tunnel cover loosely mounted:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140423_184305_zpswtj5nrla.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140423_184305_zpswtj5nrla.jpg.html)


I was able to get the shifter cable to hook up, but I'm not happy with how they are routed coming out of the fire wall. Anybody have suggestions on how to route them? Mine rub on the bottom of the steering u-joint.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140423_184328_zpsdtjc31e5.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140423_184328_zpsdtjc31e5.jpg.html)

Thanks!

Guns:

When you mounted the shifter below the tunnel rails, how long are the spacers that you used to drop the shifter unit below the rails? Also, did you find that the shifter knob hits your knee in first and second gears? I'm 6'4", and I could not shift into first or second with my right foot over the gas pedal. I had to change the angle of the entire shifter to create enough clearance for my knee. I played around a bit, and ended up using two spacers 2-3/4" long on the left rail, and two 3-1/4" spacers on the right rail. That tilted the entire shifter away from the steering wheel and gave me the clearance I needed. I'm sure glad I spotted this mod on your (and Longisland's) build threads. Much tidier, and looks better too!

[GUNS]

I stole longisland's idea for the shifter and used 4 1/4x4 grade 8 bolts and 2" nylon spacers. I'm 5'11" and don't have a problem with the shifter hitting my knee. I'm also using the stock tank so I'm a little closer to the pedals as well.

Still working on the front. Not much to show, just doing a lot of trimming to get it all to line up. Right now the rear corners of my hood hit the bottom of the windshield surround. I know others have had this problem, are you guys trimming the hood to get it to fit? I'd rather not trim this part, but I'm thinking I wont have an option.

[GUNS]

I finally got the fenders, bumper, and hood fit. Overall it wasn't too bad, just tedious. I had to trim the back corners of the hood quite a bit to get them to clear the windshield surround. Also the portion of the fenders that goes over the headlights requires a bunch of trimming. I got them down to 3/8", I may take it down a bit more.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20141010_174728_zpsowmcafzn.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20141010_174728_zpsowmcafzn.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20141010_174828_zpsayodkp1v.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20141010_174828_zpsayodkp1v.jpg.html)

[Frank818]

I like the hood pins.

[GUNS]

I like the hood pins.

Thanks, but they're just the ones that come with the kit. Didn't want to point it out, but for some reason the bottom ones on the hood aren't symmetrical. The driver side ended up about an inch lower than the pass one. Not sure what happened because I measured the brackets before drilling. I've stared at it a bunch and came to the conclusion it's probably one of those things only I will notice. I may try and fix it later.

[metalmaker12]

I like the hood pins also

[harrymorrow1]

Hey Guns

Loved following your build thread and great to see you have reached this stage guess your build was one of the ones that helped me choose the 818, looking great.

Harry

[07FIREBLADE]

if possible could you post a close up of the hood,fender windshield surround. I'm struggling in this area. And tips at getting it all lined up good??

[GUNS]

Thanks Harry, I'm glad my build thread has helped others. The only reason I've documented my build was to hopefully help others.

Fireblade, here's a close up of the hood, fender, and windshield. You can see how much I had to grind off. I did about the same on the other side as well. It's amazing the difference it made in fitment by just taking off that much on either side. Hope this helps,

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20141010_230140_zpslwvzmu3a.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20141010_230140_zpslwvzmu3a.jpg.html)

[Mechie3]

You've got that nasty hole on the front top of the door like I do.

[GUNS]

Hey guys, just about done with body fitting/cutting. I'm still waiting on a replacement trunk lid from FFR, but I was able to cut out all of the vents and my door sills.

Here's a little guide for vent cutting In case anyone needs it.

-Trace the inside of the vent trim per the manual.
-Make a small cut using a dremel cutting tool (I would actually bias to the outside of the line instead of the inside like pictured)

-http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20141019_152932_zps679gztxv.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20141019_152932_zps679gztxv.jpg.html)

-Use an air saw to cut around your line, starting at the small cut you made w/ the dremel

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20141020_110205_zpsyfgnkhja.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20141020_110205_zpsyfgnkhja.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20141019_153948_zps1lmeovm9.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20141019_153948_zps1lmeovm9.jpg.html)

The cuts don't need to be perfect as the aluminum trim will cover most of it up. For the really ugly stuff, I use this Dremel attachment to clean things up a bit. The cone shape works well especially in tight spots/corners.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20141020_110251_zps4pqvmeti.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20141020_110251_zps4pqvmeti.jpg.html)

Here's the finished product. Note that the aluminum mesh and trim are not installed yet

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20141019_170014_zpsbuux17td.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20141019_170014_zpsbuux17td.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20141020_194811_zpsstqycfpf.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20141020_194811_zpsstqycfpf.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20141021_114622_zpsjknmwzru.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20141021_114622_zpsjknmwzru.jpg.html)

[GUNS]

I also had my first experience w/ plasti dip today! I was planning on buying the APR CF side view mirrors, but my budget is getting tight so I decided to just stick w/ the stockers. I plasti dipped 1 mirror so far as a test and I'm pretty happy with it. Not paint quality, but good enough and easy enough to get the job done. I also went ahead and dipped one of my door frames and hinges as well. I plan on doing the other mirror and door frame tomorrow.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20141021_094552_zpsur9mioqt.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20141021_094552_zpsur9mioqt.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20141021_175148_zpstqp7rmbj.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20141021_175148_zpstqp7rmbj.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20141021_130742_zpsdnwkyhiy.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20141021_130742_zpsdnwkyhiy.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20141021_164556_zpsypymre32.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20141021_164556_zpsypymre32.jpg.html)


I was able to also wire up my tail lights and brake lights. They work however, my taillights are always one when there is battery power. Anyone know why?

I just ordered Wayne's VCP AWIC and will be installing that when I remove the body again.

I'm still planning on having this thing on the road by Christmas, but I have a lot of work relate trips between now and then with a lot of little things still left to do. I'm getting closer though and I'm happy to see my car looking like a car finally!

[metalmaker12]

I also had my first experience w/ plasti dip today! I was planning on buying the APR CF side view mirrors, but my budget is getting tight so I decided to just stick w/ the stockers. I plasti dipped 1 mirror so far as a test and I'm pretty happy with it. Not paint quality, but good enough and easy enough to get the job done. I also went ahead and dipped one of my door frames and hinges as well. I plan on doing the other mirror and door frame tomorrow.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20141021_094552_zpsur9mioqt.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20141021_094552_zpsur9mioqt.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20141021_175148_zpstqp7rmbj.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20141021_175148_zpstqp7rmbj.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20141021_130742_zpsdnwkyhiy.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20141021_130742_zpsdnwkyhiy.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20141021_164556_zpsypymre32.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20141021_164556_zpsypymre32.jpg.html)


I was able to also wire up my tail lights and brake lights. They work however, my taillights are always one when there is battery power. Anyone know why?

I just ordered Wayne's VCP AWIC and will be installing that when I remove the body again.

I'm still planning on having this thing on the road by Christmas, but I have a lot of work relate trips between now and then with a lot of little things still left to do. I'm getting closer though and I'm happy to see my car looking like a car finally!

I am guessing you wired something wrong or forgot the ground to the rear lights. Pm pics if how you wired the rears. I would think you have the parking switch off and the hazard flasher plugged in.

[GUNS]

^ I'll try and take some pics tomorrow. I'm pretty sure the grounds are good. The Hazard switch is not connected currently and I have not wired up the flashers/reverse/turn signals. Not sure if that matters or not.

[STiPWRD]

Looking good, I was kinda surprised how high the shifter is even after you lowered it. I'm planning on doing the same.

[07FIREBLADE]

Did you check and see if the parking switch on the top of the column did get switched on accident.

[GUNS]

Did you check and see if the parking switch on the top of the column did get switched on accident.

Dude, you rock, that was it! It's the simple things some times.

STiWRD, I like where the shifter height is now that it is mounted in the tunnel. Yes it is a little high, but it's in a good position in relation to the wheel for aggressive driving, i.e. it doesn't take much arm travel to move your hand from the wheel to the shifter.

[longislandwrx]

Looking good, I was kinda surprised how high the shifter is even after you lowered it. I'm planning on doing the same.

Yeah I lowered mine 2.5" with a stage 2 short throw in addition to the undermount. With the steering wheel dropped down another inch with Rori's spacer, its a good fit.

If that's too low the tvm stage 1 is only a half inch shorter.

[STiPWRD]

Yeah I lowered mine 2.5" with a stage 2 short throw in addition to the undermount. With the steering wheel dropped down another inch with Rori's spacer, its a good fit.

If that's too low the tvm stage 1 is only a half inch shorter.

I'll definitely be following your lead, one thing that struck me about the red 818s at FFR was how close the shifter was to the steering wheel. I'm sure I could get used to it but it just felt kind of unnatural, so I'll be lowering. I'm running Rori's spacer as well.

I shifted through the gears in the red 818 too and it felt pretty smooth but I am curious to try the k-tuned shifter sometime - the feel is more important to me than the look so until I try it, I'm not completely sold on the look alone. With all the other parts I've been buying lately, I'm mostly likely going to end up with the stock shifter though.

[GUNS]

Today was a little depressing. Just when this thing was starting to look like a finished car, I yanked the body off. I feel like I'm going backwards.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20141105_125155_zpsimzfuicm.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20141105_125155_zpsimzfuicm.jpg.html)

I also had a slow leak from the trans cover. I removed it (lost about $80 worth of oil :/) and found this little guy just sitting in there:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20141105_145529_zpsjj4ytuw2.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20141105_145529_zpsjj4ytuw2.jpg.html)

Not sure how it got there unless I didn't remove everything I needed to when I did the conversion. Anyone know what it is? Can you confirm I no longer need it?

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20141105_145846_zpsxaiobiti.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20141105_145846_zpsxaiobiti.jpg.html)


Other than that, I was able to install the heat exchanger for my AWIC. I'm going to be pretty much out of town until mid December, so not sure how much progress I'll make. My goal of having it on the street by the end of December is not looking good.

Thanks!

[metalmaker12]

Looks like a bearing race bro, you put rack spacers in yet.

[GUNS]

Yea, but to what? Discarded pieces or retained pieces? it sure wasn't there when I buttoned it up.

Haven't installed the spacers yet. On my list of things to do with the body off.

[Jaime]

Yea, but to what?
It probably came from the transfer shaft that used to sit above the center differential. It has a big taper bearing and the race just sits in a machined pocket in the transmission.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Romove upper and lower bearings and races in the center diff housing
35458

While your at it.
The center diff slings oil into a hole that lubes the shift shaft. With no center diff, no lube to the shift shaft. I would put some grease on the shift shaft bearings.
Bob

[GUNS]

Thanks for the help!

[RM1SepEx]

Was there a burr on the face of the cover like mine causing the leak?

I captured and re-used my drained trans oil, strained through a fine mesh ss screen going back in...

[GUNS]

Was there a burr on the face of the cover like mine causing the leak?

I captured and re-used my drained trans oil, strained through a fine mesh ss screen going back in...

Maybe a little bit, but not too bad. I filed it down a bit and spent a little more time with the silicon. I used Honda Bond, which is recommended for the valve cover job. Hopefully it works better this time around!

[GUNS]

Been a while since I updated this. I've been gone quite a bit, but have been able to make some progress over the holidays.


I was able to get Wayne's AWIC installed and operational:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20141127_120217_zpshg7ofjjy.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20141127_120217_zpshg7ofjjy.jpg.html)


I was going to try and make the OEM center console work, but I just couldn't make it line up with the FFR center console that attaches to the dash. I think it can be done, I just didn't have the time/patience to mess with it any further:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20141101_183357_zps3fvrxprw.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20141101_183357_zps3fvrxprw.jpg.html)

So I decided to just go with the old FFR center console, which I modified so it doesn't jut out so far into the passenger foot well. I got everything mounted and ended carpeting everything. I had leftover carpet so I decided to carpet the center console as well. It turned out ok. Not show quality, but good enough for a track car:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20141222_144748_zpslgemrz89.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20141222_144748_zpslgemrz89.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20141231_163011_zpsqpdloiiz.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20141231_163011_zpsqpdloiiz.jpg.html)

Today I spent some time working on the racing harness mounting. For the mounts, I used some 90 deg brackets I got from Jegs. I also bolted the shoulder harness to the frame. I know wrapping is better, but I figured this would be a good compromise vs trying to figure out how to cut through 2 firewalls. I'm pretty happy with the results, just want to check with you guys to make sure it's correct and safe:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20150101_143812_zpsmxiukbyu.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20150101_143812_zpsmxiukbyu.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20150101_170425_zpsnwkxh6ih.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20150101_170425_zpsnwkxh6ih.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20150101_170415_zps1jlldllj.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20150101_170415_zps1jlldllj.jpg.html)

Thanks!

[Scargo]

In your initial post you said you wanted "a somewhat street able car." The five-point harness may be illegal because many, if not most, are not DOT certified. Look at the harness label and it will likely state "for off road use only" and/or "not DOT approved for passenger car use".
I know that if you don't have roll-over protection (which all 818's do have) you should not use a racing harness. You may need to find some approved belts for inspection purposes. There is also the issue that if you were to be in a serious crash, an untrained person might not know how to release a racing harness. I think there is a law/requirement that the release button be red.
I may not have all this right since this is a kit car and it seems kit cars are in a different category in some states. If you care, I think you should see what your state requires to pass inspection. Perhaps others, like Wayne Presley or FFR know the whole story.

[Mechie3]

I think the only harness that is DOT marked are the Schroth ASM 4 pt harnesses. There's also a requirement for push button release. Cam lock release are not legal for the street. That said, I'm running 6 pt cam lock release because Indiana has no inspections so we can get away with things others can't. :D

[metalmaker12]

Each state has different requirements on types of belts. For production cars the push button must be red, and the belts must pass certain crash testing requirements. In the kit car low production side things change a bit. For example in RI my inspector was happy with the harnesses and my car is emissions exempt. I do not need a cat or exhaust but guns state might be different so he should contact inspection and ask the right people.

[tmoretta]

Ct. requires original type (labeled) street belts. I have installed my Subie belts for inspection, will change to 6 point camlock later.

[wleehendrick]

I have the same harness and will be registering with it. Erik used the same in his electric 818 and it's tagged in CA... but as mentioned every state is different.

I'm also interested in the trade-off between bolting and wrapping at the frame tube for the shoulder mounts. Like Guns, I'd prefer not to cut the firewall to wrap and use the proper hardware I have for a bolt on attachment. Any opinioms?

[Frank818]

Really nice interior!
How did you finish underneath the dash, under the cluster?

[GUNS]

Thanks for the inputs guys. Luckily, there are no inspections in SC so I should be ok.

wleehendrick, I'm no expert, but everything else is bolted in, so my thought process is that the harnesses shouldn't really be any different.

Frank, not sure exactly what you're asking, but didn't really do anything under the cluster. As you can see, there are still some visible wires that I may try and hide a bit better.

[Frank818]

Frank, not sure exactly what you're asking, but didn't really do anything under the cluster. As you can see, there are still some visible wires that I may try and hide a bit better.

That was exactly my question, I thought you might already know what to do to hide them.

[wleehendrick]

wleehendrick, I'm no expert, but everything else is bolted in, so my thought process is that the harnesses shouldn't really be any different.

My thoughts exactly!

[Scargo]

I'll just use this opportunity to ask a related question: Isn't it weakening the frame significantly to drill upwards of half-inch diameter holes in it? I started this thread " (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?16630-Hazards-of-weakening-the-frame-by-drilling-holes&p=183424#post183424)Hazards of weakening the frame by drilling holes? (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?16630-Hazards-of-weakening-the-frame-by-drilling-holes&p=183424#post183424)" in the 818R Discussions area to discuss it and not muck up GUNS thread any more.

[GUNS]

I'll just use this opportunity to ask a related question: Isn't it weakening the frame significantly to drill upwards of half-inch diameter holes in it? I started this thread " (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?16630-Hazards-of-weakening-the-frame-by-drilling-holes&p=183424#post183424)Hazards of weakening the frame by drilling holes? (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?16630-Hazards-of-weakening-the-frame-by-drilling-holes&p=183424#post183424)" in the 818R Discussions area to discuss it and not muck up GUNS thread any more.

Scargo, that's a good question and one that I thought about when doing this, so I'm glad you brought it up. My assumption is that a few holes would be fine, but turning a piece of tubing into swiss cheese may be problematic.

[Canadian818]

I'm pretty sure you need to fit a spacer inside the tube so the bolt is supported and not "squeezing" the hollow tube. There's a name for it, but it eludes me.

[GUNS]

Man, it's been a while since I've updated this. I've been working a lot and just had my first kid, so I've been a bit busy.

With that being said, I have been able to get some work done on the 818. I installed the under battery and under seat aluminum a well as some of the front splash guards. I'm saving the nose aluminum and rear fender wells for when the body is back on to see how it's all suppose to fit. The under seat aluminum was a little difficult due to all of the bolt heads for the seat brackets and harness mounts. It turned out ok, but looks a little but like swiss cheese. Oh well, good enough. I coated these parts in 3M underbody spray, which is awesome but doesn't last very long.


http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20150316_131136_zpsbxm9ax4g.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20150316_131136_zpsbxm9ax4g.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20150330_135404_zps69s7lqmd.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20150330_135404_zps69s7lqmd.jpg.html)

The car now back off the lift and I started re-mounting the body, hopefully for the last time! I'm hoping that it all goes back on pretty easy since I already pre-fit it. We'll see!

[GUNS]

Been working on the car when I have time. I started getting the body back on and for the most part it's lining up like it did the first time I fit it, but it still requires some adjustment. Like my above post said, I was waiting to get the body back on before I did much more with the splash guards, which I think is a good call. Above is the most I'd do with the body off, the rest you need the body on to see how it all lines up. I got the front passenger side done today and it turned out pretty good. I have the old front tray aluminum that I'm not sure is going to work. I'll see if the splitter will be enough or not.

Here's how I recommend installing the front splash guards. With the bumper installed, loosely clamp the aluminum pieces where they fit the best:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20150524_130526_zpsrc6aaqoe.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20150524_130526_zpsrc6aaqoe.jpg.html)

Disconnect swaybar link and drill:
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20150524_134640_zpsa6dlkopo.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20150524_134640_zpsa6dlkopo.jpg.html)

I covered mine in a 3M rubberized underbody spray. This stuff is nice, but expensive and doesn't go very far.. Either way, here is the final result:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20150524_161319_zpsaa3qbrar.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20150524_161319_zpsaa3qbrar.jpg.html)

I'll add some bulb seal to finish it off.


Additionally I was able to install my rear deck lid. Once installed I discovered that the hood pins provided are too tall and don't provide the required "resistance" to keep it closed. I ordered these from Jegs that are a little bit shorter and should be perfect.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Allstar+Performance/049/ALL18507/10002/-1

The original:
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20150518_131959_zpseuwlpvn8.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20150518_131959_zpseuwlpvn8.jpg.html)

The ones from Jegs:
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20150518_131937_zpsqmkjgqbd.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20150518_131937_zpsqmkjgqbd.jpg.html)


So the other thing...the car started running like crap. I don't know what happened, but all of sudden I'm getting misfires on all cylinders. My gut instinct is that the gas from the first start went bad, because nothing has changed since then. It was about 4 gallons that I ran mostly dry and I have since put another 5 in with 2 bottles of injector cleaner to see if it clears. Nothing. I haven't pulled the plugs yet, but I'm wondering if it was bad gas if it potentially fouled the plugs? Any other things to look for?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Check your battery voltage when running. Should be a little above 14 volts.
Bob

[GUNS]

As usual, I've been working on the car when I can.

I got the rear splash guards mounted. The only questions I have is at the rear, there's a portion that flanges out and interferes w/ the tires. I feel like I should just trim this, but don't want to if it's meant for something else that I haven't gotten to yet.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20150905_135750_zpsd7nsy7mo.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20150905_135750_zpsd7nsy7mo.jpg.html)

Is this the correct way for the dash to meet the windshield frame or does the dash go above the frame?
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20150822_154905_zpsrc08d8tf.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20150822_154905_zpsrc08d8tf.jpg.html)

I'm digging this look, I might just leave it like this :)
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20150809_100835_zpsfi5vm6fv.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20150809_100835_zpsfi5vm6fv.jpg.html)

[K3LAG]

The dash goes above the frame. It kind of wedges in between the glass and frame.

Larry

[brian b 36]

you have the inner fenders on the wrong side the edge should go back and bolt to the bumper

[GUNS]

you have the inner fenders on the wrong side the edge should go back and bolt to the bumper

Do you have a picture of how it's suppose to go? I'm pretty sure they aren't on the wrong side, but I could be wrong.

[RM1SepEx]

You put the piece that wraps the wheel on the wrong side. Just bend the triangle piece sticking out 180 degrees and attach it to the rear clip

45343

45344

[metalmaker12]

Looking good

[GUNS]

Finally got some time to get some work done on the car. I had the door panels upholstered locally and I'm pretty happy how they turned out. They were a bit of a PITA to fit since the vinyl and padding through some of my initial fitments off, but I was able to make it work:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/0316161302_zpscomu4vlr.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/0316161302_zpscomu4vlr.jpg.html)

I also took it for a drive for the first time with the body on. It didn't catch on fire and nothing fell off, so I'm calling it a success. With that said, it's still missing pretty bad and I think I need to bed in my brake beds better. Also, my front right tire is rubbing the splash guard. I think the engine missing issue is a simple ignition issue, but who knows.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/0320161458_zpsymhvggkh.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/0320161458_zpsymhvggkh.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/0320161511_zps6kktfsc0.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/0320161511_zps6kktfsc0.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/0320161513_HDR_zpsvijlqoft.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/0320161513_HDR_zpsvijlqoft.jpg.html)

Moving forward, I need to find someone to install the windshield (harder than I anticipated). Fix the drivability issues and get it registered! After that I need to get the exhaust fabricated and work on fine tuning the body work. Part of the body stuff includes installing the "carbon fiber" aero pieces. I'm one of the luck few who bought the 1st gen pieces. My god they are terrible! I'm hoping it will look better installed, but I almost don't want to put these on the car. Here's my splitter:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/f10435584_zps3u6zomst.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/f10435584_zps3u6zomst.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/f10410752_zps8zmj39hg.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/f10410752_zps8zmj39hg.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/f10420224_zpsbxowt9bz.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/f10420224_zpsbxowt9bz.jpg.html)

^ That last pic literally has a piece of plastic or something embedded in it. WTF?

[Mechie3]

Don't install it. Ask for new ones.

[GUNS]

Don't install it. Ask for new ones.

I tried that a while back, they said the reserve the right to make new/improved products. I may re-attack due to how awful they are. I had to do this with half of my aluminum parts.

[GUNS]

Don't install it. Ask for new ones.

I tried a while ago. Their response was that they reserve the right to make new/improved products. With that being said, I never sent them these pictures.

[metros]

I would include the pictures and several of them at that. Those are ridiculous for the money you paid.

Glad to see you back.

[Kurk818]

I shipped my back for a refund shortly after they arrived. I bought the side skirts and diffuser again when they had them listed in the clearance section for $100 per skirts and diffuser. They arrived worse than the ones i shipped back.

[GUNS]

I shipped my back for a refund shortly after they arrived. I bought the side skirts and diffuser again when they had them listed in the clearance section for $100 per skirts and diffuser. They arrived worse than the ones i shipped back.

Was that for the early fiber glass style or the new ones. I received the spoiler that uses their new method and it actually looks pretty nice.

[Kurk818]

It was for the first rendition. I heard they have outsources the new carbon fiber parts which do indeed appear to be much better in quality.

[Mechie3]

I got new side skirts (gen 2) when I sent pics of all the bubbles in it. I also got a new diffuser (gen 1) because mine had a 1/4" strip going across of a non woven section. I didn't focus on gen 2 is better so I want it but rather the gen 1 parts are defective even by gen 1 standards.

[Hindsight]

This reminds me of the infamous fly embedded into the fiberglass on a Ducati fuel tank.

[GUNS]

Thanks for the inputs guys. I sent an e-mail to FFR with the pics, so we'll see what they do.

On another note, I test fit the spoiler:

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/0321161710_HDR_zpsxt1msaen.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/0321161710_HDR_zpsxt1msaen.jpg.html)

What is everyone using to attach these? Are 3/16 Rivets strong enough?

[Aero STI]

My splitter, diffuser, and side skirts all looked that bad. When I pre-ordered my kit they claimed they were pure carbon fiber. I inquired about replacements and was told tough luck.

My spoiler is riveted on and has seen sustained 130-140 MPH. I plan to take mine off for paint. If I were mounting it permanently I would add some type of adhesive.

[longislandwrx]

Looking good Guns, get that garage cleaned up!

[GUNS]

Well I heard back from FFR and they basically told me to pound sand. Their response was to paint the underside to fix the transparency and to wet sand the bubbles away. I wouldn't be upset if the quality was decent, but these things are just awful and FFR should be ashamed that they took money from people for this product. I guess I'll try and make the best out of them.

Yea, I can't wait to get this thing to a point where I can focus some time on cleaning up the garage. I just have so much stuff that I'm not sure what to do with yet. I have a lot of aluminum that I'm not sure I need, but don't want to get rid of yet.

[Mechie3]

I'm guessing I shouldn't post pics of my garage then. Looks like a few cars blew up.

[nkw8181]

If you paint the bottom it does help.

[FFRSpec72]

Well I heard back from FFR and they basically told me to pound sand. Their response was to paint the underside to fix the transparency and to wet sand the bubbles away. I wouldn't be upset if the quality was decent, but these things are just awful and FFR should be ashamed that they took money from people for this product. I guess I'll try and make the best out of them.

Yea, I can't wait to get this thing to a point where I can focus some time on cleaning up the garage. I just have so much stuff that I'm not sure what to do with yet. I have a lot of aluminum that I'm not sure I need, but don't want to get rid of yet.

Mine are like yours, if I have issues with them (cracking, breaking, etc.) on the track, I will be calling FFR but since this is a track car and very little can be seen I'm not worried about the looks but I am worried about the strength

[GUNS]

I've been working pretty hard on the car lately, mainly on getting the aero pieces installed and also cleaning up the body. There was an open house at our base and part of it was a small car show. I figured that was a good motivator for me to get the car somewhat acceptable. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, but it's far from perfect. Definitely a "10 foot car." I did receive a lot of complements on it which was pretty cool. There was an Elise there, so it was good to see it next to such a similar car. I have to say, the 818 looked much more substantial. Not necessarily better looking, just more of a presence. Now I just need to get some tags, clean up a few small items and get it running better!

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/0423161559_HDR_zpsemz3lcql.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/0423161559_HDR_zpsemz3lcql.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/0513161902_HDR_zpsflnt0lgj.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/0513161902_HDR_zpsflnt0lgj.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/0514161632_HDR_zpsonhbz8ck.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/0514161632_HDR_zpsonhbz8ck.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/0514161637a_zpsuego6waq.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/0514161637a_zpsuego6waq.jpg.html)

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/0514161637_zps38eknhnv.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/0514161637_zps38eknhnv.jpg.html)

[Hindsight]

Looking really good! I bet the 818 got way more looks than the Elise.

[Frank818]

Pretty slick curves! Better than those jets!

Hey you a jet pilot?

[js3313]

Looks real good

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hey Guns,
Looking Good.
The second picture with your car in the driveway seems to have a very good gloss on the fiberglass.
Did you give it a good waxing.
Did you do much prep work?
Bob

[GUNS]

Pretty slick curves! Better than those jets!

Hey you a jet pilot?

Let's just say that my DD is much much faster than the 818....

[GUNS]

Hey Guns,
Looking Good.
The second picture with your car in the driveway seems to have a very good gloss on the fiberglass.
Did you give it a good waxing.
Did you do much prep work?
Bob

I actually haven't waxed yet. I had to touch up and wet sand a few problem areas, but for the most part I used a low speed buffer (1500rpm ish) and 3Ms Perfect it finished by 3M Finesse it. No real prep work, it's just tedious. I still need to go over some of the wet sanded areas with a finer grit and continue to buff then finish with a good wax. I'm determined to make this a paint free body and it's close.

[longislandwrx]

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/0513161902_HDR_zpsflnt0lgj.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/0513161902_HDR_zpsflnt0lgj.jpg.html)

I really like this shot... I still think I may glass in the lights a little more.. when I run out of other stuff to do.

54085