De-powering the steering rack, plus more to come on rebuilding wrx parts

[metalmaker12]

I have an 02 and 06 rack that I am depowering. This means to remove the inner seals to free up the traped power steering fluid, which gets u back to the steering ratio that the rack was designed to produce. If you don't do this your steering input is going to be more difficult in quick transitions and your ratio will seem higher. Miata race guys do this often and it will benefit us 818 guys. Open for questions,

In process of bead blasting, and powercoating spindles, brakes , control arms, sti wheels and various brackets etc to install the new bushings and seals. I have a set of brembos off a sti, but I am really think their overkill so I am rebuilding a set of wrx 4 pot brakes.
16284

For you that do not know what depowering is, heres a slide show
http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/depower.php?x=1

[Rasmus]

For you that do not know what depowering is, heres a slide show
Seems straight forward.

Modern Subarus come with Electronic Power Steering instead of Hydrolic, another route to consider.

[skullandbones]

That will really help me. I don't like tearing into something like this without some clear instructions. It surprised me to see the bearing you had to remove. I was thinking o-rings. Also, the "torquing 3 times" at the end when adjusting the pinion was not quite clear to me but I guess you just do it. Anyway that will be very helpful and keep them coming. Thank you! WEK.

[Xusia]

Weren't those instructions specific to a Miata rack? I would imagine details like torque specifications could be different for a Subaru.

[crash]

Why would you want to de-power the steering rack?

If it's an issue of different vehicle weight or line runs, you might want to try this setup...

http://www.myraceshop.com/Power_Steering_Controller.html

[Nuul]

*wave*

Hey Crash, I didn't know you ventured outside the GTM forums. Planning on adding an 818 to keep the GTM company?

[metalmaker12]

*wave*

Hey Crash, I didn't know you ventured outside the GTM forums. Planning on adding an 818 to keep the GTM company?

Lol anyway yes this is the 818 forum.
This site has almost everything you need for torque specs, I got a PDF file to but his is on the web and you can access it easily.
And yes the electric power steering is a good route, a new one will have to have custom mounts, but no biggy. I was even thinking of a Honda fit rack cause it has a 12:7 ratio stock.
But all in all I am staying with what I got and making it work well

http://ken-gilbert.com/impreza-manuals

[StatGSR]

Why would you want to de-power the steering rack?


cause power steering is for Sallys.... :D

also, there additional work and cost associated with running new PS lines to and from the back of the car to the front of the car with the engine in the MR position.

im not sure about the subaru world, but in the honda world we usually just loop the high and low pressure sides and splice a breather between them, this was standard practice for power steering deletion, even by professional race teams. compared to the miata way, you would still want to leave PS fluid in the rack to keep it lubricated.

[crash]

*wave*

Hey Crash, I didn't know you ventured outside the GTM forums. Planning on adding an 818 to keep the GTM company?

No. One project at a time.

Just thought it might be helpful to those that didn't realize they could have their cake and eat it too as far as power steering was concerned. :)

[RM1SepEx]

cause power steering is for Sallys.... :D

also, there additional work and cost associated with running new PS lines to and from the back of the car to the front of the car with the engine in the MR position.

im not sure about the subaru world, but in the honda world we usually just loop the high and low pressure sides and splice a breather between them, this was standard practice for power steering deletion, even by professional race teams. compared to the miata way, you would still want to leave PS fluid in the rack to keep it lubricated.

Doing it properly as originally described leaves a much lighter feel as un-necessary friction causing components are removed. I run with Miatas done both ways... It's very evident to the driver.

[Racebrewer]

Doing it properly as originally described leaves a much lighter feel as un-necessary friction causing components are removed. I run with Miatas done both ways... It's very evident to the driver.

Are there any concerns about the lifespan of the rack without the power steering fluid being there to provide lubrication?

Thanks,
John

[metalmaker12]

Are there any concerns about the lifespan of the rack without the power steering fluid being there to provide lubrication?

Thanks,
John


It's more about feel and response, driver feedback. if you properly pack the inside with good assembly lube your rack will last forever. I have some autocross buddies that have ran their racks this way for at least ten years. One has a race spec Elise with no ps and it is got awesome response and 400 who lol, yea it would be nice to take him!!!

[RM1SepEx]

What metalmaker12 said, you don't depower it and run it dry, you lube it up and it has seals, just like a regular manual rack. With a Miata the de-powered rack has a slightly faster ratio too!

[Mechie3]

Is there a specific how to for Subarus, or just the Miata guide. I'm sure I can figure it out, but sometimes (often times) it's faster if someone has done it before and I can just copy it.

[RM1SepEx]

I couldn't find one.

I couldn't find a way to remove the end seal so mine isn't totally depowered yet. The Miata uses a circlip... There doesn't seem to be too much friction... I may leave a small amt of oil and loop the hoses on the rack. I did make a sweet little spanner to remove the pinion gear. Pins are 5/32 roll pins on 1 1/2 center. I drilled a large hole between them and cut away the edges with a band saw. I used some scrap 1/2 aluminum stock for the "handle"

[jdek]

Are there any concerns about the lifespan of the rack without the power steering fluid being there to provide lubrication?

Thanks,
John


Nope:
Power steering fluid doesn't lubricate the rack and pinion. Here's a link to a fluid diagram how most power racks are set up. http://static.ddmcdn.com/gif/steering-power-rack.jpg
The rack and pinion are lubricated with grease in power racks too. HTH

[RM1SepEx]

It appears that you just press the rack's seal out...

http://ken-gilbert.com/wrx/04impreza/imp04_chas_11-2.pdf

I'll update tomorrow...

[RM1SepEx]

Nice Diagram jdek,

very clear depiction! you can see that you reduce friction by removing the seal on the piston mounted to the rack in this diagram. If you choose not to you can see why you simply loop the two fluid connections. Use little to no fluid, it isn't needed, you can't just block them off, you need to relieve the pressure generated by movement of the rack

I've spent 3-4 hrs searching Subaru forums for depowering the rack, I can't find any threads where they fully depower the Subaru rack, they all just loop the to rack fittings and block off the pinion fittings. I'd use very little fluid to minimize resistance... A small amt of fluid is needed, it does lubricate the piston's seal, just not the rack itself

[longislandwrx]

good info, shouldnt be hard to source the proper aeroquip npt fittings to make it look professional.

[Mechie3]

I just plan to put a weld bead on the inside of the existing fittings. Much cheaper. :)

I printed out the manual and started to work. I got as far as "don't clamp it in the vice without this fixture" before I stopped. Got 1/2 of a fixture made up during lunch, but now it's time to do some real work.

[longislandwrx]

does ken-gilbert have the LHD pages? i'm sure its just a mirror, but just askin'

[Mechie3]

IIRC, his manual is based on the 2004 USDM STI. They do have sections for routing of the hoses for the LHD setup, so maybe there isn't a LHD page? I have the full FSM manual for my 06 but it's at home, not at work. I can check it later.

[Mechie3]

Got it all apart. After you remove the 36mm nut (supposed to be replaced after use since that dimple rips it apart, I'm going to try and clean up mine) and pop out the pinion it presses apart. I used a 1"OD plastic tube to press on the rack from the valve side. It was a really light press. Hammering once or twice didn't work, it does require a press. I had made a block that my rack bolted too (next to the valve) so I could support it by that in the press.

After I pressed out the seal (be ready, the rack falls out!) it was easy enough to see the piston and cut it off.

Here is the piston:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-10-25_11-55-56_0.jpg

Cutting it off. It has a lip that is roll formed onto the shaft, so cutting it is the only way to remove it.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-10-25_11-58-57_176.jpg

Here is what I cut off. There's the steel piston, a rubber backup o-ring, and then the surface seal:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-10-25_12-56-00_304.jpg

Thoroughly degreased everything, bagged and tapped sensitive components, wire wheeled problem spots, and hit it with some rustoleum.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-10-25_12-59-24_248.jpg

[apexanimal]

^good stuff...

any pics of the reinstall?

[Mechie3]

Nope, because I left it how it was. Lunch break was over and I wanted to let the paint dry. Also left my good grease at home.

[Mechie3]

The fixture I used. Those without the built in mounting tabs will need to make a top clamp piece.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-10-26_12-15-55_933.jpg

All parts laid out for reassembly:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-10-26_12-04-02_8.jpg

Back together:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-10-26_13-06-39_522.jpg

[Mechie3]

Interesting....


I did some searching and found a few things:

Subaru steering rack in a locost7: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=9971

RX7 guys depowering the rack and welding the spool/quill/pinion together.
http://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/how-de-power-your-steering-rack-942543/

Project Miatabusa also welded the spool/quill/pinion together:
http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_articles/id/1709/pageid/2463/project-miatabusa-part-5--de-powering-the-steering-rack.aspx

Maybe I should take mine apart and weld it. Too bad I only have a stick welder. Good excuse to buy a tig perhaps? lol.

[Racebrewer]

Thanks Mechie !

Nice write-up and photos. What is your "good grease"?

John

[Mechie3]

Just Valvoline synthetic automotive grease. The only stuff we have at the shop isn't automotive grease. it's mean more for bearings in relatively clean environments at low heat. We make automated medical and clinical research products at work. Doing car stuff (or any personal project) just happens to be allowed anytime you're not working. :D

[longislandwrx]

Did you end up welding the quill?

also what did you mean by "(supposed to be replaced after use since that dimple rips it apart)"

I am getting ready to do this, thanks!

[narkosys]

also, there additional work and cost associated with running new PS lines to and from the back of the car to the front of the car with the engine in the MR position.

are there any other advantages/disadvantages other than the cost of re-routing/lengthening the lines?

P

[GUNS]

Didn't want to start a new thread and thought this thread might be a good fit....Does anyone have any info on a quicker steering column? Here's a link to a company that sells them for the WRX: http://www.landefabrication.com/columninfo.html. They are a bit expensive, but this tied together with a manual rack would be awesome in an 818. Thoughts?

[JeromeS13]

http://www.q-rack.com/QRackPricing.html

http://www.howeracing.com/p-7433-stealth-hd-steering-quickener.aspx

[bromikl]

http://www.howeracing.com/p-7433-stealth-hd-steering-quickener.aspx

What a clever idea! Does anyone have any experience with this? How would you account for the difference in the length of the steering wheel drive?

[JeromeS13]

What a clever idea! Does anyone have any experience with this? How would you account for the difference in the length of the steering wheel drive?

You would likely have to cut the steering column and shorten it. From my understanding, the L&E is a modified column using the Howe quickener.

[Xusia]

Is it not possible to just change the pinion gear inside the rack? Increasing the number of teeth on the pinion gear should accomplish the same thing.

[RM1SepEx]

you can't just change the number of teeth on the pinion, the gears need to mesh properly. Both the rack and pinion would need to be changed

[Xusia]

You can make larger gears with the same mesh - that's no problem at all. My guess is that if it's not possible, it's probably because there is no adjustability in the pinion shaft (column) to allow for the increased pinion gear diameter.

[RM1SepEx]

more teeth with same profile = larger dia. no adjustability in the aluminum case. rack meshes with pinion. to make it work in the same case the tooth profile needs to be different in both pieces.

or:

now if you want to add a tooth to the pinion and remachine the rack so the teeth are cut farther into the rack because the pinion is bigger... it could be done

Until we drive the car...

[bromikl]

Do you suppose FFR has already designed the steering to be more responsive? Shortening the length of the control arms would have the same effect as a tighter steering rack.

[GUNS]

^ potentially. I'm almost wondering if a quicker steering response may result in a twitchy behavior at high speed. I think with a de-powered rack and the light weight it will all ready be responsive...a quickener may be overkill.

[Xusia]

I think we are talking about 2 different things. Depowering allows for more direct feedback from the tires to the driver through the steering wheel. Less vehicle weight means less effort needed to turn to the wheel, which only really matters without power steering anyway. But neither of these affect the number of steering wheel turns lock-to-lock, so they are not "quickening" the steering (which increases the amount of wheel turn relative to the amount of steering wheel turn). It should be noted that quickening the steering is reducing the leverage of the steering wheel on the tires, and therefore results in increased steering effort. This is important - relative to your comment above - because the slightly higher steering effort helps combat twitchiness. It can also help reduce over-corrections in steering.

I hope this helps. :)

[RM1SepEx]

I'm sure that they are using the stock depowered rack and un modified steering arms on the front uprights. It should be fine... I just deleted the PS on Aki, my winter beater Miata today... The Miata power rack is actually slightly quicker than the manual rack. Steering effort is fine except when at a dead stop. As soon as you roll a tiny bit it is fine. An 818 will be lighter on the front tires than a NA Miata (2200 lbs, 50/50 weight dist) I've autocrossed this setup previously and it works great. Looping lines depowering has 5 - 10% more effort than full disassembly and removal of the piston and seal. (on a Miata) The 818 steering response will be dependant on many factors that are not shared with a boosted econobox WRX... so don't worry about it.

[RM1SepEx]

I finally got around to pressing in the front wheel hub and pressing out the rack to finish de-powering it. My donor parts are completely ready and reconditioned....

EXCEPT:

What did you end up using to fill the plugs where the lines were on the steering rack? I don't want to butcher the old lines and crimp them off. I could buy some new fittings and weld them closed. Anyone know of a source for correct metric plugs?

[metalmaker12]

I am done and waiting for kit also, I am getting some other extra stuff soon. I will not need those strikers, I am dismantling a 818 donor this weekend, so I will have em, thank you though.

I would just tack or glue on a copper pipe cap on the the line ports and paint them to match. Thats what I am doing.

[Mechie3]

I'm using the factory fittings with the lines cut out and the ends welded up.

[Erik W. Treves]

pretty sure you want to leave the holes open. ... this is how we depowered the cobra kits for years... I just removed the fittings and lines and let the rack drain...done...did the first cobra that way and the locost miata rack that way. ..ran the cobra for 9 years through the snow and rain with no ill effects.

[RM1SepEx]

Metalmaker... helping disassemble another donor for another kit?

Thanks for the inputs, No reason not to close them up. No pressure or flow from the two on the rack, the center seal is now gone, the piston doesn't displace fluid

The upper control ones need to be closed up to keep crap out of the system, again no pressure... I'll cap em off somehow, just looking for alternatives!

I've left my aluminum LCAs and the front rear aluminum bushing housings clean but not polished... Perhaps I should powder coat them... My rear adjustable lateral inks are powder coated red... I'm not real strong on estetics... :-) thoughts?

[Mechie3]

RM1 is correct, we cut out the center seal, so there's no pressure. Best to seal it up and keep dirt out.

I'm leaving my aluminum as is. Clean, not polished, or otherwise coated.

[metalmaker12]

Yea I am helping a fellow forum 818 guy out for a tear down for his kit. Maybe I will document it since I did not my own.

There may not be any ill effects of something entering the rack, but I just did it for peace of mind. The upper rack ones I tig welded shut, blasted and clear coated to protect and keep stuff out, and I will cap the bottom ones.

If the rears are red and you like the way they look than why not make them all red. I like the polished look myself, but I like the stock aluminum look far better, so they are staying the way they came. Just my taste on that though.

[RM1SepEx]

The rears lateral links came in red, no choice, not sure what I like. The trailing arms are re-done in Eastwood chassis black, as are the uprights/bearing carriers, front and back

I've left the engine case and transaxle in bare aluminum... I'm building a driver not a show car but somewhere you need to find a balance... the engine brackets, oil pan, water tubes, etc... are semi gloss black PC, the valve covers, wrinkle PC, the various re-used painted parts are done in Eastwood semi gloss chassis black... The calipers are red ceramic, the caliper brackets, semi gloss black

I want a PC frame... I assume that the std Factory 5 PC Chassis in semi gloss black...

As a color blind, engineer, all practical, almost no esthetic creativity I'm not sure where to go with it. Red gel coated exterior, perhaps some vinyl accent graphics? Seats in two tone leather?

I need some of VMans creativity!!

[longislandwrx]

I finally got around to pressing in the front wheel hub and pressing out the rack to finish de-powering it. My donor parts are completely ready and reconditioned....

EXCEPT:

What did you end up using to fill the plugs where the lines were on the steering rack? I don't want to butcher the old lines and crimp them off. I could buy some new fittings and weld them closed. Anyone know of a source for correct metric plugs?

you have several options..
welding the plugs solid, and grinding smooth.
if you don't have access to a welder you can also take the existing hose and create a loop. just bend/cut/remove the flare/ put the other fitting on the hose and re flare. like this
16269

you can use a std npt plug if you have some, just get a close size and add a little epoxy.

a short metric bolt with the right threading would work too... I haven't taken mine apart yet so I haven't put the thread gauge on it yet.

[Mechie3]

I want a PC frame... I assume that the std Factory 5 PC Chassis in semi gloss black...


Don't know what colors they have, but the PC frame is an option on the 818. Standard is not PC.

[RM1SepEx]

understood, I plan on purchasing the optional PC and assume that it is semi gloss black...

[metalmaker12]

RM1, pick a theme you like and just go with it, if it all has a nice flow, it will look cool. I would personally not do two tone seats, but if you like that, its cool, thats what it is about. when I build a car for me, i try to keep it looking stock as I can on the outside, with some nice wheels, but make it go like the wind and it is basically a race car under its sheet metal. If I had to coin it "the race sleeper look" lol. Heres examples, next time I go to wicked Innovations i will take some pics of the race car their building to give you more of an idea. 16280162811628216283

[Samiam1017]

Isn't an Acura type r rack electric? I wonder if they are almost the same size?

[metalmaker12]

Yeah if it is, or a 2009 up honda fit electric power rack which has a even faster ratio of 12.7, this has been mentioned, but is still a good idea

[Racebrewer]

Acura Integra Type R is not electric. Pretty standard hydraulic assist which often gets de-powered. Long thread in the Type R forum on Honda-Tech which might help.

John

[metalmaker12]

As racebrewer pointed out there is no evidence of a electric rack in any year integra. That still does not rule out an electric rack from a 2009 an up honda fit, or other hondas and brands that have a similiar setup.

[wallace18]

I wonder if the Eltra-Steer from the 33 kit could be adapted to the 818, if one thought they had to have P/S. In a car this light I just don't see the need for it. JMO.

[longislandwrx]

My rx7 had manual steering and was never an issue... even with wide sticky tires. Imho power/electric steering just seems like so much work/weight to solve a problem that doesn't exist.

[RM1SepEx]

My rx7 had manual steering and was never an issue... even with wide sticky tires. Imho power/electric steering just seems like so much work/weight to solve a problem that doesn't exist.

agreed... if my 16 year old drives a 91 Miata with a depowered rack (looped with internal piston intact) I can't see issue with the lighter 818. She likes it better for general driving and notes that as soon as you have any movement it is fine... I drove a Fiero for years, manual rack only avail. autocrossed her too, no problems.

Any alternative rack needs to have the same length or it will be very difficult to avoid bump steer issues...

[JeromeS13]

One could always keep the Subaru rack and use an electric pump from an MR2...

[Xusia]

For the ignorant among us, why an electric rack vs. the power rack that Subaru provides?

I plan on de-powering the rack for my kit, so this question is just to help me understand the desire for an electric rack vs. the stock power steering.

[StatGSR]

^ i assume people just want to avoid the long hose runs that will be required with the engine in the back and the steering rack in the front. besides that, i see no reason why the stock PS couldn't be retained if you really wanted PS.

[metalmaker12]

Either a depowered rack, standard ps rack or electric rack, whatever works for each person. But as the thread goes depowering is the way I am going along with almost everyone else.

[FFR-ADV]

Have any of you used a steering quickener? Advantages/Disadvantages?

http://www.landefabrication.com/steering.html

A DIY option:

http://www.landefabrication.com/steering.html

http://www.howeracing.com/c-446-steering-quickener.aspx

Cheers!

[wallace18]

The electra-steer used in the 33 kit is an inline P/S unit with its own controller. You could use any rack or box with it. It was just a thought I had. I was not sure if everyone knew it was an inline deal. JM2C. I am going to use a depowered rack in mine.

[metalmaker12]

That is a good option for sure Wallace, how's the 33, it is looking great man

[wallace18]

It is coming along great. Check out my latests posts for it

[freds]

16576


I am de-powering my 06 WRX rack, and have it all apart. No problems, having read this thread, and others, numerous times plus the Subaru manual, before starting. (Thanks all).
I am now looking at my valve/pinion assembly, and have been trying to figure out how it works and what two parts need to be welded together to make the link between steering column and rack rigid (ie without the relative movement that adjusts the flow/pressure to one or the other sides of the rack piston).

I came across the attached which says that when there is no pressure from the pump, the two component are "locked" together automatically.....no dissassembly or welding needed if that is the case!!!!

Anyone have any better or more complete information to share?



16577

[RM1SepEx]

what happens is the two parts rotate slightly vs each other when you turn the wheel, it opens the port that allows the pressurized fluid to flow to the racks piston "helping" you move the rack. it isn't very much but it does add a slight "sloppiness" in the wheels rotation when you turn the wheel. I didn't weld mine yet... I'm not sure how much it will decrease steering accuracy. I do notice it in my daughters depowered rack Miata... It may be an 1/8 inch of the steering wheel rim rotation or so

[freds]

what happens is the two parts rotate slightly vs each other when you turn the wheel, it opens the port that allows the pressurized fluid to flow to the racks piston "helping" you move the rack. it isn't very much but it does add a slight "sloppiness" in the wheels rotation when you turn the wheel. I didn't weld mine yet... I'm not sure how much it will decrease steering accuracy. I do notice it in my daughters depowered rack Miata... It may be an 1/8 inch of the steering wheel rim rotation or so


Thanks...I got that already!

However if you read the second attachment to my post, it specifically says that if there is no pressure from the pump....read on "When oil pressure is not produced due to oil pump breakdown, drive belt damage, or other
cause, torque is directly transmitted from the valve rotor through the spline to the pinion"

As I read that it means there is "direct drive" with no pump pressure .

That is what I am tying to check.

In any case do you have any pictures of a disassembled valve showing the torsion bar and the splines...and what is suggested to be welded in the Subaru part?

I have been unable to find any specific Subaru info on the 06 WRX type.

Thanks for your response anyway, please add more if you have any details.

[Mechie3]

Yes it is direct drive, no it is not locked.

Under normal operation: Torsion bar twists, valve opens, pressure flows to rack, spline never bottoms out as you can't put enough torque on the torsion bar due to the pressure assist.

PS failure operation: Torsion bar twists, valve opens, no flow to rack, torsion bar continues to twist until the splines bottom out.

You still have to rotate to the point that the splines touch. To weld it, you need to remove the bearing. I couldn't do it on my 06. I bought a junk 02 rack to take apart and mess with but I've been too busy getting my Fmod ready for autocross (and racing it last weekend) and machining parts for another fmod for nationals.

[freds]

Yes it is direct drive, no it is not locked.

Under normal operation: Torsion bar twists, valve opens, pressure flows to rack, spline never bottoms out as you can't put enough torque on the torsion bar due to the pressure assist.

PS failure operation: Torsion bar twists, valve opens, no flow to rack, torsion bar continues to twist until the splines bottom out.



You still have to rotate to the point that the splines touch. To weld it, you need to remove the bearing. I couldn't do it on my 06. I bought a junk 02 rack to take apart and mess with but I've been too busy getting my Fmod ready for autocross (and racing it last weekend) and machining parts for another fmod for nationals.

Thanks,
That makes sense. If and when you do get back to your 06 unit I hope you will post pictures of it dissassembled. Meantime I'm putting mine back as it is. As someone else said in this thread "It is easy enough to get back to, if the slight rotation is significant enough"

[metalmaker12]

I will try to get you a pic of what I did on my 02 rack, but on the 06 you have that bearing and valve setup so i am guessing that has to go and than you weld the landing next to the swivel gear to the main shaft of the pinion. I have not depowered a 06, so let me ask around to my tuner friends, but I am pretty sure it is what I said.

[twizzler]

In depowering the rack are you planning on removing the PS pump as well? I haven's found any suitable information on the belt size to use that covers only the crank and alternator

[RM1SepEx]

Check the working on the donor thread, I posted the belt info there and on another thread just last week. I got mine from Summit racing, around $20 delivered.

Any year rack has to have some slight rotation displacement to allow pressurized oil flow and can benefit from welding. I'm not planning on bothering to weld the shafts together on mine. (06 rack)

[metalmaker12]

Yes, many of us have removed the ps and ac pumps. I used a goodyear gatorback 4050272 5pk690 belt, or you can check out what RM1SepEx grabbed on the working on the donor thread

[freds]

I finally understand!...........It just takes time!!!!!

One of the photos from "Project Miatabusa also welded the spool/quill/pinion together:
http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_artic...ring-rack.aspx (thanks Mechie)" shows the splines and the clearance between them clearly.

16608

I don't have a TIG welder and I don't want to hit it with my MIG, so before i go searching for a skilled "outsider", i was trying to think of an alternative.

One thought is:
Cleaning and degreasing well then injecting epoxy steel between the splines. The load on the epoxy will only be compressive...if it were to crumble you are no worse off than "stock". And the crumbs have no where dangerous to go, the oil seal is above the lower bearing. This would eliminate any question of weld heat damage to the metallurgy of the components.

What pitfalls do any of you guys see?

thanks

fred

[Mechie3]

I would try a hard urethane instead. It would be able to absorb some of the load without cracking as easily. I don't think either is a very durable solution though.

[FFR-ADV]

Looking at this diagram, I am wondering if it is possible to drill and pin the outer shaft to the pinnion gear? Is the pinion too hard to drill (file test)?

16634

Is the spline fitted tightly enough that the outer shaft axis is aligned to the pinion shaft (self fixtured)?

http://otcmaterial.com/rack-rack-city-depowering-the-miatas-steering-rack/

16635

If welding is the best answer, what welding process will give the best result for our application?

[FFR-ADV]

Here is another interesting link which shows the importance of locking this shaft freeplay:

http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_articles/id/1709/pageid/2463/project-miatabusa-part-5--de-powering-the-steering-rack.aspx


http://vimeo.com/15245486

If someone offers a steering rack depowering welding service to the 818 community, it will be gratefully received!

Cheers!

[freds]

Looking at this diagram, I am wondering if it is possible to drill and pin the outer shaft to the pinnion gear? Is the pinion too hard to drill (file test)?

16634

Is the spline fitted tightly enough that the outer shaft axis is aligned to the pinion shaft (self fixtured)?

http://otcmaterial.com/rack-rack-city-depowering-the-miatas-steering-rack/

16635

If welding is the best answer, what welding process will give the best result for our application?




The 06 I am working with has a valve that is considerably different to the diagram in your post. I have been unable to find a diagram of it, or been able to take it apart. It seems the only way to take an 06 apart is to drive out the pin up near the top of the shaft that connects to the steering column. (similar to the pin far left in the diagram you show). I have tried to drive mine out, but it hasn't budged (and I really tried!)

I don't think Subaru intended this to come apart...."no serviceable parts inside"...ha....ha.

Also the part that is most like the "sleeve" in the diagram is really hard (like a bearing race)...no drilling in there.

If I get any further with my attempts, I will post details.....I hope someone else will get one apart and show us the way!

It seems with this one welding, if I ever get there, will be the easy part.

[longislandwrx]

And Dave Coleman is once again the best man I ever liked.

[longislandwrx]

Cleaning and degreasing well then injecting epoxy steel between the splines. The load on the epoxy will only be compressive...if it were to crumble you are no worse off than "stock". And the crumbs have no where dangerous to go, the oil seal is above the lower bearing. This would eliminate any question of weld heat damage to the metallurgy of the components.


fred



Freds... A metal epoxy kit is going to be $8+ Taking this over to a welding shop and saying hey can you put 3 beads on this quick will probably cost you $20 cash. You are almost done, just do it right and don't worry about it again.

[freds]

Freds... A metal epoxy kit is going to be $8+ Taking this over to a welding shop and saying hey can you put 3 beads on this quick will probably cost you $20 cash. You are almost done, just do it right and don't worry about it again.


I agree completely!

My problem is getting it apart so that I can get to the two bits that need to be welded. The 06 is nothing like as simple to get apart as any of the units I have now seen photographs of on various sites and in various posts.

Perhaps I'm being dumb not getting it apart yet (I have been known to be stupid before!!!!!! of course not often ha ha)

I can however inject epoxy into the innards of the unit and lock them up completely. And the loading is totally restrained compressive also there is nowhere for any material to "get away" even assuming some of it might crumble....and on top of that if the epoxy magically all disappeared.....you're still left with the normal "twist" of the torsion bar.

That is my thinking on the subject.

I'm in no hurry, so still hoping for someone to jump in and post a "how to take apart an 06 valve"

I'll probably try again (and again)!


thanks

fred

[apexanimal]

^post up your question on nasioc and wait for the more knowledgeable people to chime in...

[metalmaker12]

fred, If you send my your pinion I will weld it for free and send it back, if you have questions on how to get it apart pm me

But yours is a 2006 so it may not be as needed to weld up the pinion neck.

[FFR-ADV]

Does anyone know if there is enough room in the tie rod adjustment to use a 2004 WRX Wagon Steering Rack with aluminum lower control arms for a WRX sedan?

16646

Thanks everyone for helping out!

[RM1SepEx]

Show us some detail when you do Freds Metalmaker12... I may need to do mine eventually! At least I have 2 of the pinion assemblies to work with...

FFR-ADV we determined that the difference was only 10 mm per side didn't we? If so there should be no problem...

[metalmaker12]

Ok if I do I will document it well, at some point I will come accross another one

[FFR-ADV]

we determined that the difference was only 10 mm per side didn't we? If so there should be no problem...

Thanks RM1SepEx, That is what I thought. Thank you for confirming.

Thanks metalmaker12, Are you planning to do this to your 818SR? Thank you for starting this tread!

[longislandwrx]

Sorry to hijack, but I got excited.

16646

I am surprised this picture has still been FFRs only mention of the wilwood kit.

I am assuming it will be the 12" kit that retails for about $1000... I'm hoping FFRs "partnering" with wilwood means better pricing... These have been on group buys for around $800 so that would be awesome.




there was a good thread about them on wrxforums.

http://www.wrxforums.com/forums/83-3g-wrx-brakes/19339-wilwood-brake-kits-group-interest-20.html

I quote

A huge bonus to this brake kit is the amount of unsprung weight reduction!!!! We calculated a total reduction of 28 lbs off the front hubs!!! 12 lbs of that being rotational mass!
OE TOKICO FRONT CALIPER (w/ Pads) - 13.5 lbs/ea (27 lbs total)
OE FRONT ROTOR - 16.5 lbs/ea (33 lbs total)
TOTAL WEIGHT OF STOCK FRONT BRAKES - 60 lbs!

WILWOOD 4-PISTON FRONT CALIPER (w/ Pads + Mounting Bracket) - 5.5 lbs/ea (11 lbs total)
WILWOOD D+S FRONT ROTOR (w/ Aluminum Hat + Bolts) - 10.5 lbs/ea (21 lbs total)
TOTAL WEIGHT OF WILWOOD 4-PISTON FRONT BRAKE KIT W/ D+S ROTORS - 32 lbs!

[RM1SepEx]

16653
Ok if I do I will document it well, at some point I will come accross another one

want me to send you one to play with?

[metalmaker12]

yea if you want to, i will document it and tear it down etc

[RM1SepEx]

The pinion shaft is on its way...

[metalmaker12]

Cool, I will let you know when it gets here and I will document it, this was a great idea, thanks

[bnr32jason]

Does anyone know roughly what a competent shop would charge to swap the internals from one steering rack to another (JDM Spec-C to US WRX?)

I know I've read that it's a difficult job, so I know it's beyond my capabilities.

[Mechie3]

What is hard apart it? Custom machining? If it's just a 1:1 swap, taking apart the rack wasn't that difficult.

[bnr32jason]

It's beyond my ability for one. But I read either on this forum or another that taking it apart and reassembling it you must be very careful to have everything within tolerance. For something like that I'd rather have a professional do it, but if it's something an experienced friend of mine and I could do, great.

[Mechie3]

Taking it apart is more or less as easy as turning some big wrenches or sockets. Reassembling it is the same, more or less. It's not a motor with bearings supporting a crankshaft spinning at 7krpms. It's a slow turning shaft.

[freds]

I managed to destroy one valve trying to get inside!

It is a piece of work. Best I can figure (and believe) is:

The valve sleeve (with the seals and holes), pinion and stub shaft at the end of it. AND the upper bearing are all one unit.

The plane where the relative twisting of the torsion bar is visible is directly in line with the upper edge of the upper bearing.

The upper bearing cannot be removed from the complete assembly. They must assemble the balls/cage/outer race onto the valve-pinion body the same way all ball bearings are assembled.

I hope this helps avoid other from having to buy a replacement too, when they are "going for it"

16792

[Xusia]

So what is the solution? Is it possible to place the weld where your arrow says "relative Twisting occurs here"?

[metalmaker12]

I was hoping you did not break it, I am gettins a 06 pinion shaft sent to me so I can look it over and document it correctly for future builders, sorry if you had such trouble, but at least you know now.

[Silvertop]

Just for clarity -- and no criticism intended -- Is all this discussion about welding the pinion shaft just for the purpose of eliminating 1/8" of freeplay in the steering? If that is the case, what is the level of benefit in getting rid of it?

[freds]

So what is the solution? Is it possible to place the weld where your arrow says "relative Twisting occurs here"?

As far as I can tell, that is the only place for a weld.

I'm not going to do that as you will be welding to what is the inside race of the ball bearing assembly. I mean right on the bearing race! and that is not a smart thing to do on a critical (or any other) bearing.

I am probably going to flood the internals with epoxy.

That's my opinion. Xusia. Meantime others, especially metalmaker are "studying" the issue, and I really curious to hear what their take is.

fred

[freds]

Just for clarity -- and no criticism intended -- Is all this discussion about welding the pinion shaft just for the purpose of eliminating 1/8" of freeplay in the steering? If that is the case, what is the level of benefit in getting rid of it?

Briefly....Yes!

[RM1SepEx]

I didn't weld the pinion assembly on my daughter's 91 Miata when I de-powered it (simple hose loop job) you can "feel" the slight slop in the steering when on center... you sort of learn to drive vs the edge of the slop... you have to move the wheel a bit farther than expected when going from left to right as an example.

I just came back from a short 50 mile, top down drive in it
A Life is damn good
B You get accustomed to the way it drives rather quickly
C my wife doesn't like the extra effort but my daughter likes it
D effort is only too high when you try to turn the wheels when not moving, you learn to start rolling first and it becomes natural

[narkosys]

we are over 100 posts into this and no one has really answered WHY you want to depower the steering or WHAT the advantages are. If all it is is to get rid of some plumbing then, in my case, I may see if I can get Fast Freddie's system (http://www.fastfreddiesfabrications.com/shop/product.php?id_product=4) to work with the 818.

P

[Mechie3]

I managed to destroy one valve trying to get inside!

It is a piece of work. Best I can figure (and believe) is:

The valve sleeve (with the seals and holes), pinion and stub shaft at the end of it. AND the upper bearing are all one unit.

The plane where the relative twisting of the torsion bar is visible is directly in line with the upper edge of the upper bearing.

The upper bearing cannot be removed from the complete assembly. They must assemble the balls/cage/outer race onto the valve-pinion body the same way all ball bearings are assembled.

I hope this helps avoid other from having to buy a replacement too, when they are "going for it"

16792

That explains why when i measured the inner diameter of the bearing it didnt match any of the specs that the number printed on the outside race said it should match.

[RM1SepEx]

we are over 100 posts into this and no one has really answered WHY you want to depower the steering or WHAT the advantages are. If all it is is to get rid of some plumbing then, in my case, I may see if I can get Fast Freddie's system (http://www.fastfreddiesfabrications.com/shop/product.php?id_product=4) to work with the 818.

P

this isn't the first thread discussing the rack
you get more/better "feel" of the car/tire to the road interface w/o power steering... it is as simple as that

[metalmaker12]

we have discussed the benefits of no power steering very much, were just trying to get the 06 wrx rack in check, I will be getting the 06 wrx pinion shaft soon, and should be able to identify a slop potential if any. This is just the current agenda, if you have other technical info on how to de-power the rack and or it's benefits please join in. On this thread we are pro no power steering, but some may want it so that is a topic for another thread.

[Xusia]

we are over 100 posts into this and no one has really answered WHY you want to depower the steering or WHAT the advantages are. If all it is is to get rid of some plumbing then, in my case, I may see if I can get Fast Freddie's system (http://www.fastfreddiesfabrications.com/shop/product.php?id_product=4) to work with the 818.

P

That's probably because this thread isn't about the "why;" it's about the "how." There are threads with that discussion, but to sum up, some of the advantages are (as seen from the eyes of different folks; i.e. not everyone would agree with this list):

More feedback from tires (i.e. more "connected" feel)
Weight savings
Less parasitic loss on engine
Reduced likelihood of steering over-correction

[mekohler]

I am in the middle of prepping my 06 wrx. I am working on the steering rack and I cannot figure out what tool, or how to remove the recessed nut that goes over the pinion shaft. I am trying to get the rack apart to remove the piston. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

[Mechie3]

Spanner wrench or a drift (blunt nail punch) and a hammer. I used a drift to knock it loose then a spanner to get it off.

[RM1SepEx]

I am in the middle of prepping my 06 wrx. I am working on the steering rack and I cannot figure out what tool, or how to remove the recessed nut that goes over the pinion shaft. I am trying to get the rack apart to remove the piston. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

see post 15 on this thread, I made a spanner, dimensions are provided

See post 23, He removed the seal AND piston, you can just remove the rubber seal. There is no need to remove the piston with a Dremel etc... Removing the seal eliminates the friction to the rack assy walls and doesn't try to force fluid down the lines

The issue is how do you reduce the twist of the internal torsion bar? Somehow you need to reduce the distance between the two connection points, it's around 6-7 inches now... (just a guess, hard to tell) if you can weld or pin them together inbetween the current connection points you can reduce twist allowed. Metalmaker12 has my extra piece from my damaged 05 rack and is playing with it.

[bnr32jason]

You guys keep mentioning the 2006 model year steering rack, do you know if there are differences between the earlier model racks (02-05) that make a job like this easier or more difficult?

I'm just trying to pick the best/easiest rack to work with for the internals swap and depowering.

[metalmaker12]

the 2002-2004 wrx has differnet internals than the 05-07. I am going to try to compare the two soon.

[mekohler]

Thank you for the info, it is much appreciated.

[Xusia]

For those who - like me - don't understand the finer workings of power steering, I found a series of video (3 parts, all very short) that explain it well:

Part 1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y-UtO5DwoeE)

Part 2 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTiOhcRd5EI)

Part 3 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xeWmNpZ5sD0)

[freds]

For those who - like me - don't understand the finer workings of power steering, I found a series of video (3 parts, all very short) that explain it well:

Part 1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y-UtO5DwoeE)

Part 2 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTiOhcRd5EI)

Part 3 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xeWmNpZ5sD0)

Very clear.....Thanks for finding and posting Xusia

[metalmaker12]

Here is video 1 showing the 1/8 play in the 2005-2007 steering rack pinion, shaft. I finally got my computer and go-pro to work here. It was like 7am so don't make to much fun of me:p

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jSVpZBioG3Y&feature=youtu.be

[metalmaker12]

Here is the final outcome. I plug welded some other spots, but in my opinion this is the best option. It was not super clean, since I was in the middle a of a huge side welding job, so the weld is ok, but not my best work, and I had to really monitor the heat input. Prior to welding I dipped the shaft in acetone briefly to try to get some grease out. I also used some degreaser. It got like 90% out, and If I had more time I would have gotten it 100% clean.

Tools: Tig welder, 1/16 sharp tungsten, #6 cup for good gas coverage, 309, or 70s-3 steel wire, and run at about 65-80amps


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ImTJZ-071l8&feature=youtu.be

[RM1SepEx]

Thanks Chris! When I get it back I'll see what I can do to make up a crude fixture and compare forced deflection and rotation when installed in my rack both with the modified piece and with with the stock valve and pinion assembly.

[FFR-ADV]

Thank you for doing this Chris,

Great job!

Steve

[papajon1000]

really appreciate the video.

Thanks

[Xusia]

Totally, thanks!

[longislandwrx]

Send it back to RM1SepEx and see if it fits.! nice jorb.

[metalmaker12]

Thanks guys, it was no biggy, plus I got to learn how to upload my go-pro. I cannot wait to be uploading build videos, and better yet my own 0-60, 80,,,100, 120 and some track stuff down the line etc. I will be doing the 2002-2004 pinion shaft at some point also. I will be sending out the shaft for fitment within a week or two.
Any questions PM me

[Mechie3]

Thanks to a donation from Freds, here is an inside look at the 06 WRX spool valve and pinion assy. Prior to sending it to me he filled it with epoxy. I couldn't get it to move using vicegrips, but longevity is unknown. Seems like it can't hurt to try.

Starting to cut it open. You can see the differences in the two metals. The outside is case hardened, the inside is much softer.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130521_122406_458.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130521_122406_458.jpg.html)

View of the torsion rod. You can calculate angle of twist from TL/JG = Angle (T= torque, L= length, J=2nd polar moment of inertia, G= material strength).
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130521_133338_118.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130521_133338_118.jpg.html)

I cut the torsion rod in half to remove the two halves. The torsion bar is pressed into teh lower piece and pinned into the top piece.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130521_135516_529.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130521_135516_529.jpg.html)

There is an accessible pin. You can press this out (start with a short pin so it self supports to start, then use a long pin) and it will unlock the torsion bar. Because of all the epoxy in here, I coldn't get the cut torsion bar half out yet.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130521_135531_875.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130521_135531_875.jpg.html)

The splines. These are located at the bottom. Just under the splin is a thrust journal bearing.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130521_135546_181.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130521_135546_181.jpg.html)

Top half inserted flipped over to show relative positions. There is a small bearing on the inside as well.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130521_135655_322.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130521_135655_322.jpg.html)

The bearing race is indeed part of the spool/pinion body which is why I couldn't press it off and the inside dimenions of the bearing didn't match published ID's for that bearing size. The best way to go is to weld the top like metalmaker did if you're careful and don't warp the bearing race. Another option is to cross drill the assy and press/weld in a pin through the entire assy. A third option is to drill through the middle of the spool valve (remove the upper input shaft first) around the circumference and create spot welds. The last option would be to remove the input shaft, cut off the bearing race portion plus a little extra. Reinsert the input shaft and pin it in place, weld it together, then press a standard bearing over the top (if you can find it in the correct size).

[freds]

Thanks Mechie3...I'm a visual sort of person and am very pleased to see the guts

fred

[longislandwrx]

Looks like the penetration of the epoxy was pretty good. I'm impressed.

Not sure how much force you could apply to this with your hands. I think you'd have a broken wrist before this would fail due to a pothole/curb impact. Repeated vibrations might wear this out eventually but I actually think it might have survived for a while.

[RM1SepEx]

nice work! so the large spline shown in the last photo carries the load and "flops" from edge to edge when you go from left to right etc.. and the relatively little (dia?) torsion bar makes it smoothly transition vs the loose on center flop of the Miata design.

If you can drive out the pin and take it apart and fill that area with the spline with JB weld and reassemble
it should work well...

Metalmaker just sent mine back, I'll see what I can do to set up a test setup to compare stock vs welded

[Mechie3]

I'll have to go measure the torsion bar. It was around 3/16" or so. The epoxy did get rather good penetration. It took me a second to realize it stunk while machining because of the epoxy. To get it out, I had to use a pick and a hammer. Even then, I didn't get it all out, just enough to take it apart. JB weld might be better then epoxy. Not sure how brittle jb weld is when cured vs epoxy since I've only used it once to plug a hole.

[longislandwrx]

So can you press that pin out, separate the sections, glob it up with JB weld/Epoxy insert the shaft and repin? or do you need to mill to get access to that pin?

also is that needle? bearing plastic? could you crack that out, and really get in there with the welder?

[Mechie3]

The needle bearing is some sort of polymer/fiber piece. Looks like a phenolic.

The pin is very accessible, no welding necessary. The only hard part is getting a pin to press out the existing pin to stand up. I used a really short pin so that it could only tip so much. After I pressed it out .125", I got a long pin and finished pressing it out.

Fred just used a syringe to fill it with epoxy and it filled just about every available spot. I don't know if JB weld flows as well as what he used.

[metalmaker12]

Nice to have a machine shop you can use. I knew I should have tried harder with pushing out that pin:p, but I was set on welding. My way did work, but lets see what we can do to glue one back up and make it hold as long as weld. Nice work Mechie!!

[freds]

I believe JB Weld is epoxy with some powdered metal/steel filler. I bought and looked at it, but it will not flow into the innards of the assembly.

Also, I believe that since every cavity was totally filled with epoxy, even if it "crumbled"...the crumbs would have no where to go. I feel even if you could fill the voids completely with fine grained sand, it would be locked up. There is simply no place to squeeze it to....and what the hey they glue aircraft together with this sort of stuff.

I mentioned to Mechie3 that even if it vaporized and did magically disappear you end up with the "normal slop"...no crisis, and then one could do any of the other suggested ways of locking the unit up.

I have chosen the epoxy injection, which cannot/does not potentially harm the inner race of the bearing (which admittedly is not a normally loaded running bearing)...or potentially weakening the overall concentric sleeves.

I don't think any of the solutions is "bad"...take your pick.

[metalmaker12]

+1 .? I agree, weld, or glue were good

[freds]

+1 .? I agree, weld, or glue were good

Hi mm12, not to be a pain...just to clarify the way I think of it...
Using the epoxy is not really to glue the parts together, but to insert something in-compressible between, particularly, the splines....which eliminates the possibility of there being any "slop". The fact that it will also act as "glue" between all the parts is a bonus.

[metalmaker12]

no pain here, (I meant epoxy) were all 818 brothers learning together and trying to come up with ways to mod stuff. It is all constructive to me. Mechies dissection was a interesting look into the pinion. The epoxy will work well and I understand about it working as a substance that will wedge between the inners of the pinion shaft as well as stick to everything.

[DodgyTim]

I had intended to try the epoxy and measure and post the results seems I have been beaten off the mark...
A normal marine grade epoxy used for boat building has a compressive strength of about 12,300 psi and without much searching I've found other grades up to 15,800 psi.
The big question for me was getting the cavity fully filled, so it acts like a wedge instead of a glue. The sectioned photos are great, now i'm reasonably confident the epoxy solution will work
Thanks for the great work Mechie3

[bnr32jason]

I'm still trying to find a solid answer if the quick steering internals of the JDM Spec-C steering rack will swap into a USDM rack. I've read conflicting information on the internet (as usual).

[JAubin]

Thanks for the research into this Metal and Mechie, both parts that were investigated were 05+ right? Any idea if an '02 rack could use basically the same process?

[freds]

I had intended to try the epoxy and measure and post the results seems I have been beaten off the mark...
A normal marine grade epoxy used for boat building has a compressive strength of about 12,300 psi and without much searching I've found other grades up to 15,800 psi.
The big question for me was getting the cavity fully filled, so it acts like a wedge instead of a glue. The sectioned photos are great, now i'm reasonably confident the epoxy solution will work
Thanks for the great work Mechie3

To fill the voids fully a fairly low viscosity product is necessary.
Since the epoxy, when in-between the splines and filling all spaces, is physically restrained, I reasoned that 3,200 psi compressive strength was adequate. It cannot go anywhere even if its normal compressive stress were to be exceeded.

The one I used in the unit mechie opened, and on my own depowered unit is

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/epxy_5min/overview/Loctite-Epoxy-Instant-Mix-5-Minute.htm

It flows pretty well and cures quickly. I injected it into every orifice until it started to come out of other orifices then I kept moving it around as it cured so that none of it could run out before it set-up.

[Mechie3]

Thanks for the research into this Metal and Mechie, both parts that were investigated were 05+ right? Any idea if an '02 rack could use basically the same process?

These are different. They essentially unbolt IIRC. I have one at home I can look at, or I think metalmaker already did one.

[longislandwrx]

I injected it into every orifice until it started to come out of other orifices then I kept moving it around as it cured so that none of it could run out before it set-up.

looking at the pictures, I don't see what hole you used to get this epoxy into the assembly.

[freds]

17826

Every hole...I mean everyone you can see in this photo, and all those around the pinion that you cannot see, including the holes above (to the right in the pic.)of the bearing....Just don't dribble any into the bearing..ha-ha.
And I held it vertically to be sure the epoxy ran down into the splines..Then kept moving it around to let gravity do its job as it set.


looking at the pictures, I don't see what hole you used to get this epoxy into the assembly.

.

[RM1SepEx]

looking at the pictures, I don't see what hole you used to get this epoxy into the assembly.

he injected it into all of the oil holes that are used to assist the rack to move/turn the wheels... makes very good sense... and he is correct even if it does degrade, where can it go? worst case it finds a way out and you are back to a depowered rack with the slight torsional movement when the torsion bar alows the part to rotate..

I'd just like to see something a bit stronger... however viscosity is key if you inject through the holes.

I'd like someone to try driving out the pin, separate the parts, insert JB Weld into the spline area, put them back together and replace the pin...

Received the welded unit back today... not sure when I'll get to testing it for movement, I've got some honeydoos and a sick dad

[longislandwrx]

17826

Every hole...I mean everyone you can see in this photo.

Do you have pictures of your other glued one before you put it back together?

[freds]

Do you have pictures of your other glued one before you put it back together?

124 is a photo of the one mechie cut open which shows the epoxy in one particular hole quite clearly. Each and every hole on the one I put back in my assembly looked pretty much just like that.

I masked off the seals and the bearing openings carefully, and cleaned off the tiny amounts of drool that I intentionally caused by injecting in each hole until it started to come out of the other hole(s) Just like greasing a bearing.
...but holding it a little off vertical to make sure the epoxy would run into the splines..as earlier described.
I am quite sure, especially after seeing my guinea pig cut open by mechie, that every void is filled.

17831

[metalmaker12]

The epoxy seemed to work well and I do have an 02, but it is fully assembled, maybe I will take it apart.

[freds]

The epoxy seemed to work well and I do have an 02, but it is fully assembled, maybe I will take it apart.

Guys, I forgot to add...I flushed out the insides several times...immersing in gasoline (naughty naughty I know) and blowing it out and then again with Brakleen a few times, blowing out each time...letting the part dry out in the sun for a few hours and only then injecting the epoxy.

fred

[freds]

Deleted

[biknman]

Just my two cents I de-powered my WRX rack doing what the Flying Miata guys did and then added a EPAS Corsa C kit from Don at Rallywiz.com.


http://youtu.be/_5-CyEjIkHU
http://youtu.be/_5-CyEjIkHU

18062

18063

18064

18065

[metalmaker12]

I have heard of this unit, but first time I have seen one installed, cool, but how much

[biknman]

I have heard of this unit, but first time I have seen one installed, cool, but how much

The Euro is weak so it was a good deal 325.00Eu shipped which I be live was $415.00USD a month ago.. There are several options:
From Don@rallywiz.com
Sent: April 11, 2013
you have 2 choices either Corsa B or the Corsa C column. the corsa B is slightly shorter and lighter than the corsa C unit, but the corsa C unit is slightly more powerful than the B as it belongs to a slightly heavier model of car. All kits come with steering column, my unit pre-wired to it, 1 metre of earth wire and 3 metres of wire to go to the master switch/battery. 1 x fuse holder + 50a fuse and very simple instructions. Everything (Apart from the fuse to let you mount it where you like) is pre wired to the loom so you only have 3 wires to connect to get it working. >> Prices are as follows. >> Refurbished corsa C kit: 280 euro plus 65 euro shipping = 345 euro >> Used but fully tested corsa C kit: 260 euro plus 65 euro shipping = 325 euro >> >> Refurbished Corsa B kit: 280 euro plus 65 euro shipping = 345 euro >> Clean used (fully tested) corsa B kit: 270 euro plus 65 euro shipping = 335 euro >> Not so clean but used/tested Corsa B kit:350 Euro plus 65 euro Shipping = 315 Euro >> >> The last units, in case you are wondering why they are cheaper are a batch of units I got in from a breakers yard at a lower price as they are showing signs of rust in a few places, and the breakers cut the wires going from the load sensor to the ECU in error, they are now re-connected, heat-shrinked into place and have gone through rigirous testing so work perfectly fine, but may not look as clean as other units. I can send photos of the units the columns if you are interested. >> Hope this helps, >> Don.

[metalmaker12]

thanks, yeah it is helpful

[Hazelwwp]

Why de-power the steering rack?

The Motor Trend teaser article referenced in Dave's thread says the following ... "On Gingerman’s occasionally ragged track surface, the Factory Five tramlines and hunts out imperfections with an alacrity that is something alarming. Kickback through the steering wheel can be violent."

It also says ... "This isn’t a car for novice drivers."

It seems to me that the power steering may be safer for a young driver. Since I am building this car with/for my teenage son, I want to make it reasonably safe for him to drive. I plan to install the anti-lock brakes, keep the power steering that was on the donor, and perhaps add the Racelogic Traction Control System.

[metalmaker12]

Power steering will make it turn even faster, not sure that is safer. A na build with abs would be safer man

[longislandwrx]

Agreed, power steering may dampen the kickback slightly, but there's still a mechanical link. When you have sticky tires, firm bushings, stiff shocks/springs and a light car all that energy is going to be transferred to the wheel.

Also as Wayne said, the R&T test was before several suspension changes, so perhaps FFR was able to tune some of the harshness out.

[RM1SepEx]

Why de-power the steering rack?

The Motor Trend teaser article referenced in Dave's thread says the following ... "On Gingerman’s occasionally ragged track surface, the Factory Five tramlines and hunts out imperfections with an alacrity that is something alarming. Kickback through the steering wheel can be violent."

It also says ... "This isn’t a car for novice drivers."

It seems to me that the power steering may be safer for a young driver. Since I am building this car with/for my teenage son, I want to make it reasonably safe for him to drive. I plan to install the anti-lock brakes, keep the power steering that was on the donor, and perhaps add the Racelogic Traction Control System.


I actually might think you will find the opposite to be true. My daughter much prefers her Miata with the depowered rack. Power steering makes it too easy to steer and "darty" when driving at speed etc... the manual steering gives you much better feel and feedback with the road.

As far as traction control and ABS I would suggest that you and your son do some driver training... for a teen the StreetSurvival.org program could be a life saver.. The 818 power to weight mid engine, low polar moment of inertia all will make it a very capable machine but along with those traits comes the ability to go wrong very quickly.Develop skills to leave "novice" far behind!

Beyond that many organizations provide driver skills programs, my wife and I have been very pleased with BMW CCA programs. Practice will dramatically improve performance and confidence. We all have traction control built in... don't push the gas pedal down so far! LOL

My family practices skills every chance we get, so I'm going for raw performance, manual steering, no ABS, thin bottoms on shoes for better pedal feel.

[Hazelwwp]

I sent my son to the 3-day "Advanced Teenage Driving" course at Bondurant driving school in Phoenix over spring break in March. He had a blast but I am not aware of any road course near where we live so that he can practice what he learned. There is a course near Indianapolis about 4 hours away but it is private and I cannot afford a $15,000 per year membership.

After returning from Phoenix, I bought him a Porsche Boxter so he can get used to a mid-engine car but it doesn't have a lot of power.

[Silvertop]

I sent my son to the 3-day "Advanced Teenage Driving" course at Bondurant driving school in Phoenix over spring break in March. He had a blast but I am not aware of any road course near where we live so that he can practice what he learned. There is a course near Indianapolis about 4 hours away but it is private and I cannot afford a $15,000 per year membership.

After returning from Phoenix, I bought him a Porsche Boxter so he can get used to a mid-engine car but it doesn't have a lot of power.

You don't say exactly where you are from, but in the Midwest, Road America at Elkhart Lake Wisconsin and Blackhawk Farms near Rockford Illinois both have Track Day events.

[Mechie3]

There is a course near Indianapolis about 4 hours away but it is private and I cannot afford a $15,000 per year membership.


Putnam Park? You can go there with other clubs and don't need a membership to do so.

[timmy318]

You don't say exactly where you are from, but in the Midwest, Road America at Elkhart Lake Wisconsin and Blackhawk Farms near Rockford Illinois both have Track Day events.

Located in Owensboro, KY!

[RM1SepEx]

StreetSurvival.org

Date Venue Location
06/08/13 Maryland Driver Training Facility Sykesville, MD
06/09/13 Wright State Univ. – Nutter Center Dayton, OH
06/15/13 OLD VISTEON PLANT Connersville, IN
06/15/13 Saratoga Auto Museum Saratoga, NY
06/15/13 Sports Authority Field at Mile High Denver, CO
06/15/13 Qualcomm Stadium San Diego, CA
06/22/13 Keesler Air Force Base Biloxi,, MS
06/22/13 Sun Motor Cars BMW Mechanicsburg, PA
06/22/13 Tire Rack South Bend, IN
06/22/13 Milton Frank Stadium Huntsville, AL
06/23/13 Campgaw Ski Area Mahwah, NJ
07/13/13 Monroe Community College Rochester, NY
07/13/13 Tire Rack South Bend, IN
07/27/13 Dakota Co. Tech. College Rosemount, MN
07/28/13 Nassau County Veterans Memorial Col Uniondale,, NY
08/03/13 Shelton State Community College Tuscaloosa, AL
08/17/13 Milwaukee Area Technical College, O Oak Creek, WI
08/17/13 Gwinnett County Fairgrounds-Sugarlo Lawrenceville, GA
08/17/13 Tire Rack South Bend, IN
08/18/13 Milwaukee Area Technical College, O Oak Creek, WI
08/24/13 Faith Christian Assembly Melvindale, MI
08/24/13 Family Arena St. Charles, MO
09/07/13 Fresno Fairgrounds Fresno, CA
09/14/13 New Hampshire Motor Speedway (NHMS) Loudon, NH
09/21/13 Kansas Speedway Kansas City, KS
09/21/13 Toledo Express Airport Swanton, OH
09/22/13 Portland International Raceway Portland, OR
09/29/13 Family Arena St. Charles, MO
10/26/13 Richmond Raceway Complex Richmond, VA
11/16/13 Gwinnett County Fairgrounds-Sugarlo Lawrenceville, GA
11/23/13 Camarillo Airport Camarillo, CA

[GUNS]

Here' the pinion shaft from my 02, can anyone tell me where I need to weld this bad boy?

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20130704_195217_zpsb6b7c84b.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20130704_195217_zpsb6b7c84b.jpg.html)

[metalmaker12]

Undo the snap ring and remove the bearing, clean the shaft and weld along the shaft twist seem, if I get time I will take mine apart to show you. Do you have a tig setup?

[GUNS]

Undo the snap ring and remove the bearing, clean the shaft and weld along the shaft twist seem, if I get time I will take mine apart to show you. Do you have a tig setup?

Thanks for the quick reply. My buddy has a MIG and stick welder. I'm not an expert on welding, but I'm assuming those will work as well?

[Mechie3]

Stick would be a terrible idea, MIG might work. I'm not (anything close to) an expert welder, but TIG generally provides the most precise weld for a small area like that.

[metalmaker12]

You could maybe mig short arc it with a stitch method, but you kinda should just tig it. Ask around someone must have one, worst case you could send it to me and I would send it back

[GUNS]

Thanks for all of the help guys. I'm dropping my tranny off at my local shop to have my LSD installed and while I'm there I'm going to have them TIG weld the twist seam. My only question is which part is actually the twist seam? I took the snap ring out and pulled it apart the bit and circled what my best guess as to which part the twist seam is. Is this correct, or am I out to lunch?

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/Pinionshaft_zpsf6b19c08.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/Pinionshaft_zpsf6b19c08.jpg.html)

[metalmaker12]

Guns, you have to take the pinion shaft completely out, the seam is in the lower section, I been busy stripping other donors, I will try to go take it apart tonight and send you pics

[07FIREBLADE]

Post the pics up here for everyone to see plz.

[michael everson]

Why is it I cannot seem to get my rack apart? I have the pinion out and the large nut but cannot remove the rack. Its a 2002
Thanks Mike

[RM1SepEx]

you have to gently push it out with a press... I think it was earlier in this thread.... been a loooong time man!

[michael everson]

Never mind. Figured it out.
Mike

[AZPete]

Mike, can you let us know the answer, please?

[taco20]

Hey does anyone have a steering rack pinion for an 05 Sti rack? I broke the bearing trying to press it off. Should have read the hole post before trying to press it off. lol Anyway if anyone has a spare hit me up. Thanks

[Rasmus]

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130521_133338_118.jpg

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130521_135655_322.jpg

Just wanted to thank Mechie and Freds. The above two photos do wonders for knowing exactly what to do to lock this in with a MIG welder. Now I don't have to worry about overheating a bearing race. Thank you.

[Rasmus]

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0324.jpg
Here's how I (MIG) welded up the steering rack quill based on Mechie and Freds discovery. Six plug welds altogether. Before pulling the trigger I used a drill press to sink a millimeter or two into the inner shaft on each of my 6 holes. I wanted better penetration and didn't want to worry about a surface weld shearing off the inner shaft. That outer shaft, with the hydraulic rings, is a case/tool hardened steel. Unless you've got super expensive bits don't try to drill or widen the holes on the outer shaft. You'll just break your drill bits.

[metros]

Looking for some help fellas. I've got my steering rack almost completely apart, but I can figure out how to get the actual main shaft out of the steering rack body. What step am I missing?

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/20140307_160234_zps9uzej1py.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/20140307_160246_zpsfqbhj3cl.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/20140307_160256_zpsa8juiasv.jpg

[Xusia]

Turn the end cap in picture 2 until you see the end of the retaining clip in the slot seen in picture 1. Use something small to get under the leading edge of the retaining clip (I used a small regular screwdriver), and simultaneiously twist the end cap so that the leading edge of the retaining clip is forced out through the slot. Keep rotating the end cap until the retaining clip is all the way out.

[metros]

^^^Thanks - that helped a lot. Now that I've got the rod out I'm assuming all 3 of these pieces are the seal that I should be removing? Most pictures in this thread only show one piece.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/20140307_164830_zpsulgq3hvm.jpg

[Xusia]

Mine didn't look like that. What year & model is the rack from?

Assuming those parts are "stuck" in that position (i.e. not slid down from somewhere else), then yes, they need to be removed. I used a grinder with a cut-off disc. I didn't want to damage the rod, so I was very careful and stopped before I reached the rod. I repeated the process on the other side. This weakened it enough that I was able to break it the rest of the way off. I hope that makes sense. :)

Also, are you welding the quill (rotary valve)?

[metros]

That's why I was asking. I haven't seen any others have more than one seal. This is from a 2002 wrx. It does have a koyo sticker on it though. Maybe one of the previous owners replaced the rack at some point.

I'm not planning on welding my rack. For some reason mine doesn't have any movement at all. It actually feels like one solid piece.

[Xusia]

If it was powered, it's not a solid rod. It's a valve that sues a torsion rod, which is very stiff, so you'd have to put it in a vice in order to feel the play. All that said, NO ONE who has left it unwelded has indicated they actually felt that play with the rack installed in the car. You'll be fine leaving it alone. :)

[metros]

^^^Agreed.

Cutting through those seals was actually pretty easy. A little work on the body of the steering rack and I'll be ready to re-assemble everything in like new condition. One thing I hadn't thought of is how is everyone else centering the rack? Line the center rod up so that equal distances are showing on each end?

[Xusia]

No need. The bracket on the driver's side of the steering rack lines up with the mount on the frame, so physically, it only goes on 1 way. Because previous racks weren't centered, I took great pains to make sure the outer tie rods were the same length and that the rack travel was centered. Then I measured it and it was perfectly centered. So I'm pretty sure they fixed the issue.

If you are talking about how to center the rod inside the rack, that's super easy. Just mount the rack (doesn't even have to be connected to the wheels), then mount the steering wheel (even if just temporarily; and don't boilt the U-joint!). If it's centered, you should have 1.5 turns in each direction before it locks. If it's not centered, you'll have more turns on 1 side and less on the other. In that case, disconnect the steering wheel, turn the pinion by hand as needed, re-connect the steering wheel, and test. Repeat as necessary.

No need to worry too much about the outer tie rods. Those will be adjusted when you get (or do your own) alignment. I set mine to as close to straight as I could - just to make it easier to roll around.

[Rasmus]

For some reason mine doesn't have any movement at all. It actually feels like one solid piece.

Mine didn't feel like it had any movement either. Then i wrapped the pinion in a shop towel and put it in the vise. With a pair of vise grips on the shaft I could get it to twist.

[metros]

Thanks for all the help xusia, that makes perfect sense now that I think about it.

I tried that yesterday rasmus, most I could move it was like a millimeter. Moved just enough to make a noise.

[Rasmus]

most I could move it was like a millimeter.

I couldn't move it much either but assuming that 1 mm was the full movement of the shaft from fully loaded counterclockwise (CCW) to fully loaded clockwise (CW) thats only on an input shaft that measures 18mm in diameter. But, when you multiply that slop out to a full size steering wheel like an OMP Corsica 330 (330 mm diameter) the slop from CCW to CW is ~ 18.3 mm. That's almost 3/4 of an inch of dead input when switching directions in an AutoX slalom. That's almost 3/4 of an inch of dead input when correcting/catching your car as it goes into oversteer.

Unless you meant 1mm of movement from rest to fully loaded going only one way. Then we're looking at ~ 36.6mm of of dead area, and 36.6mm of dead area is like watching the Duke Boys drive the General Lee straight while being filmed in the studio. Like lumberjacks, they sawed at it.

[DMC7492]

Hi Guys, I can vouch in on this one. I installed a steering quickner in a low rider chevy pick up truck. The lock to lock when aligned and on the street was 2 1/4 turns, When driving aggressively the ratio was good, but when trying to drive a period of time as in a cruise, the steering was twitchy. Also steering effort as greatly increased and caused fatigue on a longer drive.
a little bit of input made alot more output. Once the steering shaft is modified with all the ujoints and shortened, if undesirable everything gets replaced.
I liked it before the mod. lighter and more spirited driving.
It looked very similar to this one.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/brn-38050/overview/

[Frank818]

^^^Thanks - that helped a lot. Now that I've got the rod out I'm assuming all 3 of these pieces are the seal that I should be removing? Most pictures in this thread only show one piece.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/20140307_164830_zpsulgq3hvm.jpg

I have the exact same setup on my 2003 NA.
I have to cut the smaller one on the left side, but what do I do with the large one on the right side? It's totally free playing and slides on the rod. Do I need to put to it back when I re-assemble?

And then the cap on the end I removed to get the rod out, do I need to put it back so that the rod will not get out of the housing?

[RM1SepEx]

all that you need to do is take a utility knife and cut/remove the O-ring. That's the seal.

then you reuse the screw in end cap, it has a bushing in it.

[metros]

Frank - Mine, as pictured, were all stationary and wouldn't move at all. I removed all of them with a grinder. I found the easiest to make a cut 180* apart on either side of the shaft. Then use a chisel to finish the last amount of material remaining from the cut. After that the pieces basically fell off. The endcap gets re-used. When re-assembling be careful because there is nothing keeping the main shaft inside the steering rack any longer. That means if you tip it over to one end then the shaft will slide right out of the rack.

[Xusia]

Frank, if it were me, I'd cut that other piece off as well. I would be worried it would contact the tube body. I don't know that would be a problem, I just wouldn't want to find out. :)


When re-assembling be careful because there is nothing keeping the main shaft inside the steering rack any longer.

Except the pinion! (once you get it in)

[Frank818]

Ok I see. I got pix, that may help.

This is how my rod was (the big bearing-like is a moving part):

27624

This is the sliding part. I don't keep that?


27629

So how do I put back the end cap if the clip looks like this?

27731


And finally, what do I do with this small ring left from the piston I cut?

27630

[metros]

I didn't keep that part. I can't see the picture of the end cap you were referring to. Did you figure it out?

[Frank818]

I didn't keep that part. I can't see the picture of the end cap you were referring to. Did you figure it out?

I edited my last post, you're right the attachment didn't work.

I will be re-assembling for probably 2 weeks, so I have not checked yet how to re-install the end cap.

[metros]

The small ring left from where you cut I wouldn't worry about. It shouldn't see any large forces or stress. If it makes you happy you could fill the ring with epoxy and sand it smooth.

The end clip looks in need of replacement. When I removed mine I was able to keep it intact. Then hook the clip back in the endcap hole and twist the endcap to draw the clip back around.

[Frank818]

I'll remove that small ring, then. :)

That's what I sort of understood with the end cap. Maybe it's (clip) gonna twist again in. Otherwise I'll replace it or find another way to keep the end cap there.

BTW, what is the end cap's purpose now that only grease and no pressure is in the housing?

[metros]

I would think it would keep the center rod/rack/shaft centered and oriented to the pinion properly.

[Frank818]

I thought of that too. But then I saw the hole inside the housing around the middle section is smaller than the housing itself, which helps keeping the rod aligned. And once the... I don't know how to call that, but that small metal part with a concave side, once this is pressed and torqued on the rod, can it then really move or not be aligned? Theories only, I don't know.

Best is to find a way to keep that end cap in, I agree. Will do.

Tnx for clarifying!

Next step: making that quill a once piece-no-movement piece.

[metros]

That concave piece does work to keep everything aligned properly. The end cap in question is at the other end of the rack though, potential for movement with that distance. All still just my humble opinion though.

Good luck with getting that end cap re-attached.

[Frank818]

Yeah that's quite possible!

Tnx for the info.

[Frank818]

Ok so the play I have on the quill is not the same as metalmaker.


http://youtu.be/ecqe4Qb3Cc0

I cannot weld the bearing to the stem. I have to weld the 2 stems together.

27846

If I keep the valve or that thing with multiple rings on it and weld it to the stem, it won't be hard enough as only one small dent will keep everything in place.

27847


It's going to the TIG welder this week.

[Xusia]

Frank, yes, weld the 2 stems together. You can remove the rotary valve completely.

[Frank818]

Yes? I thought the bottom ring (metal similar to a bearing) of the valve was helping the stem stay in line, to align it.
I'll trash the valve then, the least number of parts I run on the car, the better. :)

[visaliaman]

Yes? I thought the bottom ring (metal similar to a bearing) of the valve was helping the stem stay in line, to align it.
I'll trash the valve then, the least number of parts I run on the car, the better. :)

Why not tap the PS fittings for Zerk fittings and use this access to periodically lube the pinion? Also why not leave seal in, loop left to right and fill both sides with ATF? This would in effect dampen steering feedback. If too much dampening use lighter oil or if more dampening is needed a valve could be installed in the loop line. No disassembly of rack required.

[Frank818]

I planed on filling the small tube (where the quill goes in, in my video) with thick bearing grease.

[Xusia]

If you want that piece of mind, I say do it. I just lubed mine with thick bearing grease, because IMO the rack isn't subjected to high heat or pressure. I think if you keep the dust out, and lube it decently the first time, you'll likely not need to touch it for years.

[Frank818]

My quill (or whatever you call that thing) once welded:

28423

[Frank818]

This is the sliding part. I don't keep that?


27629

Yes you do!!!!!!
If you don't, the rod will have a play on the end cap's side. And a big one for a steering rack. It may even be so dangerous on the road and in a curve that something could break and you crash. There should be no play on a steering rack. This metal stopper aligns the rod and keeps it in place so that it has no up/down play.

Use this clip just in case it may keep the metal stopper from sliding too far on one end.

27630

And use the end cap to prevent the stopper from coming out. Besides, the stopper helps fitting the end cap properly as it sits on it.

27731

[JeffS]

For those with a late model pinion with integral upper ball bearing (I have a 2006 WRX rack), you can disassemble this bearing before welding, and then re-assemble it afterwords to protect it from heat damage:

28750

First... Gently push the plastic ball cage out from behind with a small screwdriver...

28751

Next... While holding the shaft horizontally, wiggle the bearing a little until all the balls fall to the bottom of the race...

28753

With all of the balls at the bottom, lift up on the shaft and the bearing will fall apart...

28752

After welding, reassemble the bearing by loading all the balls into the bottom of the race, then insert the shaft and press it against the balls in the race while tilting the shaft to vertical. Then spread the balls evenly around the race and the bearing will no longer fall apart. Snap the plastic cage back into the bearing and you are done.

Good Luck... Jeff

[Pearldrummer7]

(2002 WRX donor steering)
Just in case anyone wants to retain the sets of valves...I cut into mine with an angle grinder and had a friend tig weld the upper shaft, lower shaft, and valve-body(might not be the right term....electrical guy here) together.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3878/14461065012_06b2e7e3f6_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o2SJP7)
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3858/14275788829_abbf95187a_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nKv9Ea)

Keeping the valves because I feel like they might help support the steering shaft. maybe is wasn't necessary.

[nuisance]

I have a 2002 wagon donor. I depowered the steering rack by turning down the piston, but still wanted to lock the slop out of the pinion shaft.

When I took it apart, I saw that there are flats on the input side of the shaft, and flats that the shaft fits into on the output side. I measured them and there is .030" slop, ie the output side is wider than the input side. So, the input can turn a little before the output turns, and that is when it unports the holes that send hydraulic pressure to the rack.

It was pretty easy to cut a couple of .015" shims to put between the flats on input and output to stop the slop. No welding necessary.

Here is a picture of the shims required. I cut them from an old feeler gage rather than ordering stock.

30535

Here is an end-on view of the shafts, the input is on the top, and you can see the flats, and how they fit into the output shaft.

30536

The next view shows how the shafts go together. I have one shim on top of the input shaft, and the other (hard to see) inside the end of the output shaft, so I can slide the two back together.

30537

Finally, the shaft is back together, and ready to reinsert into the rack.

30538

Since the shim stock is fairly hard, and the shims fill the entire space, I think this will last a long time. When I clamp the pinion gear in a vise, and turn the spine end, there is zero slop.

Good luck! John

[Frank818]

Nice post nuisance, there goes another way to get that play off of the steering rack. :)

[metalmaker12]

I am going to start a depowering the rack gig. I have done about 10-15 other car types and 5 818 conversions and now I figure I will offer the service.

The drop off fee: $200

Mailing in fee of: $240 ( you pay to mail it in, but I do work and mail it back to you, and mailing fee is included in price)

Includes: teardown and seal removal, cleaning, pinion and line end welding, blasting, painting of line ends re-assembly with
High temp greese, and new boot ties.

Any other parts that are needed ( bushings, boots, inner parts etc, will be added to the bill with no additional labor

PayPal or cash only

Pm if your interested.
32962329633296432965

[xxguitarist]

Quick question for you guys-
How does the inner portion of the tie-rod end come off?
The bit under the boot, attached to the actual main steering rack rod, not the portion that has the lock nut out towards the ball joint.

[billjr212]

Guitarist - I think you are talking about the portion that is held on by the lock washer. You basically just have to unbend the lock washer (it is crushed down on opposite sides around the inner tie rod and then use a big wrench to unscrew the inner tie rod. The steering rack should be otherwise intact when you do this in order to keep it from spinning.

You should order a new lock washer in order to reinstall. They cost less than $1, but you will have to order from Subaru based on what I could find. Part 34188A in this diagram. http://www.newenglandsubaruparts.com/a/Subaru_2004_Impreza205-5MT-4WDWRX-SEDAN/_54100_6028366/POWER-STEERING-GEAR-BOX-GEAR-B0X-02MY-04MY/G11-347-02.html

[xxguitarist]

Thanks Bill,
Yes, I was talking about removing 34906.

I'll have a look in that area- I was working from the other end, and put the pinion back in to lock it from rotating.

[billjr212]

The good news is you should only need to remove the driver's side inner tie rod. This will allow you to slip the actual rack out the passenger side after removing the pinion and the guide/sleeve (which is behind the giant nut on the front of the rack - i put this in a vice and turned the entire rack to get it loose since i didn't have a wrench big enough for it and I didn't want to tear it up with a pipe wrench)

[xxguitarist]

Yep, I see how that'd work now.

Already had the rest disassembled! Ah well, back together a little, then back apart.

[STiPWRD]

Interesting, I used subaru part number 34112AA000 to replace the lock washer, I wonder if those 34XXX part numbers are specific to that website?

[Boog]

34XXX is a lookup to the list section. You can see the full part number on the "add to cart" button.

[billjr212]

exactly - those are just used so the part numbers on the diagrams aren't completely crazy and cross referencing to the order list is easier. some of them are a bit of a "where's waldo" as it is. thank god for "Ctrl + F"

[Sgt.Gator]

Is there a "best fit" year and model of rack? I'm building without a donor so I can order any rack......I'm also considering having a true manual quick ratio rack made but I'll need the correct power rack dimensions to copy.
Thanks

Whoops just saw the Best Fit thread. But still interested if anyone has other thoughts....

[xxguitarist]

Got my seal cut off. Since my rack was Koyo like some others here, thought I'd post pictures.
The larger piece DOES move on mine.

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd8/xxguitarist/CB5A7807-A741-451F-914D-EB03FFEE05B9_zpsedqync6p.jpg

Seal cut off, other sliding piece left on. It bottoms out on the body just behind the part that uses a spanner wrench to remove.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd8/xxguitarist/C46D17EC-99B4-484F-BBC3-13865B7F1B9F_zpszz1zb7sa.jpg

Haven't welded this up yet.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd8/xxguitarist/4337478C-7E96-4F56-944F-2CAAA62AA7E7_zpsy0ivvh5a.jpg

[Hindsight]

Anyone know what size bolt/pitch I need to plug all the hydraulic lines with? I'd like to plug them instead of looping them (now that I removed the plunger), and I don't have a welder.

Unless my bolt bin is wrong, it looks like an M12 diameter but the pitch is finer than 1.25. There is also one that's even bigger than an M14... no clue what to put in that one. The rack is from an 06WRX.

Also, does anyone know the proper way to adjust the rack tension mechanism? The FSM doesn't seem to cover that. It's the bolt with a giant jam nut, and on the end of the bolt (inside the rack housing), there is a spring and then a little piece that presses up against the rack and loads it up.

[iblackwe]

I have a 2002 wagon donor. I depowered the steering rack by turning down the piston, but still wanted to lock the slop out of the pinion shaft.

When I took it apart, I saw that there are flats on the input side of the shaft, and flats that the shaft fits into on the output side. I measured them and there is .030" slop, ie the output side is wider than the input side. So, the input can turn a little before the output turns, and that is when it unports the holes that send hydraulic pressure to the rack.

It was pretty easy to cut a couple of .015" shims to put between the flats on input and output to stop the slop. No welding necessary.

Here is a picture of the shims required. I cut them from an old feeler gage rather than ordering stock.

30535

Here is an end-on view of the shafts, the input is on the top, and you can see the flats, and how they fit into the output shaft.

30536

The next view shows how the shafts go together. I have one shim on top of the input shaft, and the other (hard to see) inside the end of the output shaft, so I can slide the two back together.

30537

Finally, the shaft is back together, and ready to reinsert into the rack.

30538

Since the shim stock is fairly hard, and the shims fill the entire space, I think this will last a long time. When I clamp the pinion gear in a vise, and turn the spine end, there is zero slop.

Good luck! John

How did you separate the two shafts, did you have to press them out or is there a pin that needs to be removed first. Seeing as I don't have a tig welder this is definitely the best option.

Thanks,
Ian

[billjr212]

I am not road tested and proven yet, but I was able to weld mine up with just a plain ol' boring flux core wire feed welder. I was not able to reinstall the valve body (?) - the part with the 3 or 4 little orange seals, but that does not appear to be necessary. Steering feels smooth and solid in super official garage testing (vroom vroom noises optional).

[Hindsight]

FYI Metalmaker will weld your pinion for you. He did an awesome job on mine.

[nuisance]

They just pulled apart when I took the housing apart.

[iblackwe]

I am not road tested and proven yet, but I was able to weld mine up with just a plain ol' boring flux core wire feed welder. I was not able to reinstall the valve body (?) - the part with the 3 or 4 little orange seals, but that does not appear to be necessary. Steering feels smooth and solid in super official garage testing (vroom vroom noises optional).

Good call, I was doing the same trying to grind my welds down to fit the valve seal, in which I ended up getting to fit. I then reinstalled everything and it worked well (no shaft play). Thankfully I saw this because I realized the shaft rides on the two bearings (the one thats pressed on and the one thats at the top of the shaft near where the steering knuckle attaches) and not the valve seal at all. In fact without the valve see I also found this made the steering even smoother and I also was able to go back in and weld it up really well knowing the extra space I had to place these welds.

Thanks again!

[bbjones121]

Got my steering rack finished this weekend. Thanks for all the help on this thread!
I decided to keep it brushed steel with high temp clear coat. I welded all the ports, even the aluminum ones. I ground off some of the channels. If i had more time, I would have shaved off all the channels.

Now if I could just get that fancy steering rack bushing from Zero Decibel Motorsports soon ;)

39203
39204
39205
39206
39207
39208
39209
39210

[wleehendrick]

Now if I could just get that fancy steering rack bushing from Zero Decibel Motorsports soon ;)

I think Jeff (Hindsight) has a few left of the one batch he made. They're not hogged out like Craig's, but fit perfect.

[tgf05354]

Resurrecting this thread as I attempt to de-power my 06 steering rack. I too am having an issue getting off the recessed nut that goes over the pinion shaft. I tried a drift and hammer and it wouldn't budge, only gouged the nut a bit before I stopped making a mess of it. May try and make a spanner, but should it be that hard to get loose?

[Hindsight]

Should it be that hard to remove? Of course not!!! :cool: But sometimes they are.

Mine came off with a drift, but it was a clean 2007 with low miles.

DIY spanner is my suggestion for next step as well. I would take a cheap crescent wrench and drill a hole in each finger of it (hole facing upward if the wrench was laying on the table). Then hammer a short pin into the hole. Could use a #8 screw or whatever is small enough to fit into the notch on the nut. You can then use the crescent wrench adjuster to set the width you need.

[tgf05354]

OK, my homemade spanner worked and the pinion is out. Now I'm stuck on getting the rack out. I assume you need to remove the huge nut on the passenger side of the rack. Again, stuck like a #*#. Of course I don't have a wrench that big. Tried holding the nut in my vise and twisting the tube, but no luck yet. Any helpful hints?

[Hindsight]

Which nut are you talking about? The inner tie rod ends? It's been a long time since I did mine but if you are talking about the nut that sort of looks like it is part of the rack housing, you don't need to remove that. If I recall correctly, once you have the tie rod ends off, and the pinion removed, the inner rack should just slide out one of the two sides (it will only go out one way). There is an adjuster nut/bolt near the pinion that sets the rack tension and you may have to back that out as well, I forget.

[tgf05354]

That's what I thought. Both inner tie rod ends are off as well as the adjuster nut/bolt. The nut I am referring to is on the passenger side.

Here are pics of both ends. [ATTACH=CONFIG]57020
[ATTACH=CONFIG]57019

[tgf05354]

OK, found I had a socket big enough to remove the passenger side nut. Thought that would do it, but the rack still will not slide out. Do I need to press it out?

[Hindsight]

Oh ok yes I remember that one now. So interesting thing about that nut.... if it's at all like the one on mine, the nut is soft aluminum and there is a punched-in indentation on the steel rack tube that literally gouges out the large aluminum nut as you back it out. On mine, I think I re-used the nut and also filed down the little nub on the tube so it didn't do more damage on re-install, but I may have purchased a new nut from subaru.... I can't remember.

Looks like you have everything off that you need to. It only comes out one side - press from the valve side. I believe I had to use my hydraulic press. It didn't take much pressure but tapping with a hammer didn't work.

[tgf05354]

Thanks, tomorrow I will see about figuring out how to rig the rack in my press to get it out.

[Hindsight]

I suggest a 2x4 with a hole drilled through it big enough to allow the rack to slide through but not the housing. 2x4 should be plenty strong... doesnt take much pressure.

[tgf05354]

Success! all apart and the ring is cut off the rack. Now I just need to find someone to weld the pinion. My MIG welding skills are not good enough. Might try the epoxy method, but would prefer welding.

[Hindsight]

Metalmaker welded mine before I got a welder. He did a great job. Pm him. If you cant get ahold of him or find anyone local, I will do it for you. BTW, you want it TIG welded.