EdwardB’s Mk5 30th Anniversary Build. Another Wiring Update

[edwardb]

Time to start another build! This will be my sixth FF build. After my last build, the ’35 Hot Rod Truck, I got slightly off track and built a Sling TSi airplane. A lifelong bucket list item that was challenging but also rewarding. My plans for how it would be completed after taking it as far as I could in my garage workshop changed. So, it’s for sale now in its current state. All the main pieces are assembled. It's ready for paint, final assembly, rigging, and flight testing. I have several solid leads and hopefully it will be sold soon. I’ll expect the new owner to keep me updated including airworthy status. For grins, this is the panel of the build. Full Garmin advanced IFR, autopilot, etc. As an added bonus, this is the main harness as it was being fabricated. For all those that think the Ron Francis harness is complicated. And yes, everything worked with no smoke. Pretty impressive:

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Ok, back down to mother earth. I enjoy staying busy and the planning and build process for me is maybe the most enjoyable. So started looking for another project and here comes the Mk5 Roadster. We love our Gen3 Coupe, which isn’t going anywhere, but the open top Roadster is also great fun. If the redesigned Roadster is anything like the Gen3 Coupe it will be a winner. When the 30th Anniversary versions were announced I knew that’s what I wanted to do. I placed my order the first day they were available. I did a 20th Anniversary Roadster ten years ago (higher math…) so seems especially fitting. My completion date is June 14, so this thread is starting before actually received. Stewart Transport will do the delivery, so will be here when they make it to Michigan hopefully in a few weeks. I don’t have every detail of my build plan, but here’s where I’m at now. More to be decided when it's here.

Kit: I won’t detail everything about the 30th since it’s well documented elsewhere. Basically an Mk5 with special powder coated chassis and anodized panels, IRS, Wilwood brakes, special seats, wheels, badging, and a whole list of options. I like all the choices that were made. I chose 18” wheels and over-riders vs. quick jacks. I’ll probably add a rear bumper but haven’t ordered it yet.

I didn’t order the A/C-Heater. Still on the bubble whether A/C makes sense in a Roadster. Maybe if I had plans for a top. The new one is nice. But we have the Coupe with a top so don’t plan to go there. I wouldn’t mind a heater only. I’m going to see what options I can find to fit into the new chassis. Heated seats to keep my better half happy for sure.

I ordered a blank dash. Not a fan of the plastic dash. The C-F one is OK but I prefer something custom. Details TBD but will have a glovebox and leather wrapped. Also will likely leather wrap the center console.

Specialty Power Windows wipers like I’ve done on the last two builds. Also likely will add washers. Technically required in Michigan although most are able to talk their way out of them. I’ve installed them on the last couple builds and every once in a while they are useful.

I’ll put together an electrical plan once the kit is received. Couple of differences with this build from what I’ve done with the FF supplied turn signal and square rear lights and trailer converter. Likely will use an Ididit headlight controller as in the past. Nice piece. LED’s throughout including the headlights. I’ll probably modify the daylights out of the Ron Francis harness like usual. Don’t mind it and something I know how to do. Mostly.

I put a keyless start (Digital Guard Dawg) in the Coupe and it’s kind of cool. But not planning for this build. Adds a bit of complexity and isn’t cheap.

I am planning to add cruise control. Had it on the truck and it was nice. I take meds that affect my feet so not having to keep my foot on the pedals on long cruises is helpful. Dakota Digital has a new version that’s totally electronic for DBW setups. Planning to try it.

I really like the Torsen IRS diff in the Coupe. I feel like it provides better straight ahead stability. The 3.55 ratio works best with my planned setup. So, I’ve been watching for a 3.55 Torsen diff in salvage. But they don’t come up often, nice ones aren’t cheap, and I just can’t get comfortable with putting a used part in this thing. Even though many do and it’s really OK. I went ahead and put a new 3.55 Trac-Lok IRS diff on my order from Factory Five and plan to do a swap with a Ford Performance Torsen carrier. Same one that’s in my Coupe.

Chassis: My plans so far.

Powder coat balance of panels and loose parts as appropriate. Lizard Skin for insulation and UPOL Raptor for underbody and splash panels. All things I've done before.

Power steering (big surprise…). KRC pump with the smallest ID-4 flow valve and FF PS rack.

Manual brakes. I’ve been happy with the manual Wilwoods in other builds. Still on the bubble about the added vacuum booster. We’ll see. Partly a real estate discussion based on other things in my build.

Steel brake lines w/o unions. I like them one piece end-to-end. I’ve done rigid SS on all but the last build. It’s hard to work with but gives a nice result. Previously I could buy it in straight pieces over the counter at Inline Tube which is local for me. They stopped doing counter sales and I don’t like straightening SS. I did steel on the truck build and it was OK. Flares easily with the Eastwood tool. I know guys like NiCop, but I still prefer the stiffer steel lines. Don’t hate me.

-6AN PTFE lined stainless steel flex fuel lines. Did this on the truck (vs. rigid) and other than the added cost, was happy with it. I’m going to put the regulator and return line in the back, also like I did with the truck, so only a single supply line to the front and one thing off the firewall. Aeromotive regulator, Trick Flow filter, and Holley 12-345 340 LPH fuel pump.

Engine and Transmission: I’m a huge Coyote fan (big secret…) so that part’s a given. Was thinking a Gen4 crate but really had a hankering for something different so thought about an Aluminator. As it turned out, another forum member was selling an Aluminator package which I ended up buying a few months ago. It’s an Aluminator 5.2 XS, same engine that Factory Five put in the Joey Logano/SnapOn Coupe a few years ago. This package was put together by Forte with all the necessary bits including the bell housing, flywheel, clutch, Moroso pan, alternator, starter, TKX 2.87 1st-gear/.68 OD transmission, control pack, etc. Still in the crate. A 3-day road trip down and back to Dallas and it’s in my garage waiting. The package included a KRC PS setup that wasn’t installed. Now it is. Had a Forte external hydraulic clutch which I swapped to a Tilton internal TOB. Very happy with that in my Coupe. Package also included Gas-N ceramic coated SS headers. Holding my breath that they will match up with the newer version Factory Five side pipes. All-in-all, a package that should be awesome for this build for a good price. The Cobra Jet intake looks cool. Overall appearance with the hood open may even impress those that don’t like how a Coyote looks. The 580 rated HP is insane for my relatively mild street cruising. But that’s what the RH pedal is for.

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Color: Undecided although red always seems to make the scene. I’ve wanted to do a build with ghost stripes. We’ll see. Anxious to see the new body and will consider options on who paints it.

That’s probably enough for now. I’ll post pictures when the kit is delivered and of course updates all during the build. Here we go again!

[lewma]

Congrats Paul! Looking forward to your build thread (again) :)

[GoDadGo]

I'm Sure It Will Be Spectacular!

[TrackDay17]

Looking forward to to seeing your build since I'm planning a MK5 and a Gen4 Coyote from Forte myself.
That engine is going to be a tire shredding beast !
I've been wondering if the Cobra Jet intake will fit the Gen4 because I definitely like the looks of it better.

[Higgybulin]

Well, well, well!! Subscribed!
Higgy

[cv2065]

Perfect timing for those new builders with an MKV kit. Paul is lighting the way again!!

[PNWTim]

Well, this will be pretty fun. That engine is a beast! Looking forward to following along - your build threads are always a wealth of information and great ideas.

[JayOH]

Awesome Paul! Looking forward to reading along and hope to follow your well lit path later this year!

[Papa]

Paul,

Congrats on the MK5! I'll be watching for your thoughts on the Aluminator 5.2 XS as that was where my head was going for my Coupe build.

Dave

[Mike.Bray]

If you want stainless steel brake line tubing in straight lengths Earl's sells it. You can order through Summit. Like your Coyotes I love my stainless hard lines:)

[rthomas98]

Can't wait to see the build, I will be following for sure.

[Blitzboy54]

I reference one or more of Paul’s build threads at every stage of both builds. Genuinely excited to watch this one come together.

That engine is quite a thing.

[Justin]

Sounds like solid plan! Stainless line straightener... I bought one from Nitrous Outlet (https://nitrousoutlet.com/products/flo-supply-3-16-to-1-2-tubing-straightener?srsltid=AfmBOorQ16sGUy-W5LX2qrNq4MIFAbl7Sbq8g70jDv6c0btvgCVQl_73) and it is fantastic. I ran ⅜" SS lines for the fuel. I bought two 16' rolls from the Stop Shop. It did take 2 people but that was because I didn't cut the 16' pieces. I will add that the Stop Shop SS needs to be annealed. I just used MAP gas and heated the end to be flared to a nice bright orange and let it air cool. Then flared it 37* with no issues. I do have a nice vice mounted flare tool though. I was also able to straighten 3/16" tube and after annealing the ends get the 45* double flare without splitting.

[JimStone]

If you want stainless steel brake line tubing in straight lengths Earl's sells it. You can order through Summit. Like your Coyotes I love my stainless hard lines:)

In-line Tube also does still sell the 6 foot lengths online. I know it says they have to put a shipping bend it it, but I got 3/16 and 3/8 from them for my Coupe build last year all perfectly straight in a cardboard tube.


Congrats on the build and I look forward to the updates!

[Nigel Allen]

G'day Paul,

That sure is going to be an exciting build and I look forward to following along.

[Straversi]

Congratulations on the new project. Going to be a fun one for sure.
-Steve

[Sharris2]

I've followed all your builds, love your detailed information. Qestion I have why the Specialty Power Windows wipers instead of the FFR ones? Thanks

[Lidodrip]

Sounds awesome, congratulations!

James

[Jeff Kleiner]

This comes as no surprise! You’re going to like the 5 Paul and I look forward to following along :)

Jeff

[edwardb]

I've followed all your builds, love your detailed information. Question I have why the Specialty Power Windows wipers instead of the FFR ones? Thanks

Specialty Power Windows wipers = cheaper, more robust, work better, fully adjustable. Full disclosure, I've seen where Factory Five is saying something about improving the wipers over the previous version. If that's the case, could change the discussion. But I've used the SPW ones on a couple builds, and several more on here have as well, with positive reviews.

[nuhale]

Congrats Paul, looking forward to catching up at LCS.

Looking forward to following your build sir. Looks like you have a solid plan. Love the 5.2 for this. Going to be a beast. Rip that TKX off and go with a T56 man!


Bryan

[edwardb]

Congrats Paul, looking forward to catching up at LCS.

Looking forward to following your build sir. Looks like you have a solid plan. Love the 5.2 for this. Going to be a beast. Rip that TKX off and go with a T56 man!


Bryan

Hi Bryan. Thanks. Yeah, if I were starting from scratch I'd seriously consider the T-56. Like it a lot in our Coupe. But since the TKX was part of the package I bought (for a good price...) I'm going to stick with it. Not just the price of the more expensive trans but would also have to change the bell housing. Going to leave it alone. I'm sure it will be fine.

[PNWTim]

I will be curious to see what the Control Pack looks like. Have you ordered it yet or did it come with the package. I am assuming it's similar to the Coyote.

[edwardb]

I will be curious to see what the Control Pack looks like. Have you ordered it yet or did it come with the package. I am assuming it's similar to the Coyote.

Yes it came with my purchased package. It's a standard Gen 2 Coyote control pack. With a Continental PCM, my former employer, vs. the Bosch one they started using with Gen 3. Big disclaimer in the instructions though that a custom tune is required. What's new about that? Every Coyote I've done required a custom tune.

[rickster991]

Subscribed!

[RR20AC]

Should be great like all the rest! Panel in your plane looks good. Been flying a bunch, getting ready for some flying in the Idaho backcountry. Here is a pic from Tieton State Airport. Have fun with the build. Jim

https://gopro.com/v/ezavBy2bXQ9Ek

[edwardb]

Should be great like all the rest! Panel in your plane looks good. Been flying a bunch, getting ready for some flying in the Idaho backcountry. Here is a pic from Tieton State Airport. Have fun with the build. Jim

Hey Jim. The pictures and video look great. Congratulations on your build. I'm hoping whoever buys my plane lets me see it done, flying, and maybe in person. It's been a fun project but I'm ready to move to something I can finish and enjoy. Completion date for my kit was yesterday. Will be contacting FF and Stewart tomorrow to get an idea when it will be in my garage.

[edwardb]

Received 'the call" from Stewart. Completion date was 6/14, last Saturday. Will be loaded on 6/23 and delivered 6/25 - 6/27. Next week... The fun is about to start.

We leave in the morning for LCS. Hope to see some of you there and also will see the Mk5 in person for the first time.

[460.465USMC]

I was wondering if you were going to build another F5 after your plane project. Looking forward to following along again. Now that the MK5 is out, it will need a build manual. Your build thread is kicking off just in time to write it.

P.S. Have you decided what you'll use for ignition instead of the DGD?

[edwardb]

I was wondering if you were going to build another F5 after your plane project. Looking forward to following along again. Now that the MK5 is out, it will need a build manual. Your build thread is kicking off just in time to write it.

P.S. Have you decided what you'll use for ignition instead of the DGD?

Saw the Mk5 for the first time at LCS yesterday. Looks excellent. Next time will be with mine next week. Looking forward to it of course. For the ignition, planning just a simple key switch. May add a pushbutton for grins, but TBD.

[edwardb]

Always a good day to have the Factory Five truck show up at your house. Mark from Stewart, after driving back and forth to the London Cobra Show, made my place on his first stop from Wareham going west. Was hot and humid but we got it done. Still working on selling my airplane build, so we packed boxes around obstacles in my garage shop. Most will go to the basement for inventory and then stay there until the parts are needed. Relatively short backorder list. Wheels and the coated panels were the notable ones. I'll complete the inventory in the next few days around a busy family weekend. Looking forward to getting started. BTW, I'm number 14 of 30. Didn't know that until just now. Didn't spend a lot of time, but the new body looks good.

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[edwardb]

Rest of the pics packed into the garage.

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[BUDFIVE]

Paul, it must be fun to start another. That truck means something special to our group-I remember it at the end of the ranch road like yesterday. I bet the inventory is easier, not so intimidating. I look forward to watching your build.

[Papa]

It's great to see that truck pull up! I'm expecting the same this weekend.

[460.465USMC]

Congrats, Paul! Echoing others in the fun of delivery day. I've spent so much time in your build threads, seeing the MK5 on your lift on Day One is kind of like Deja Vu.

[Drthomasd]

Joining the fun. My 30th anniversary MK5 is to be delivered to St Louie tomorrow the 28th!

[Reddrig]

Have fun, lots of nice pieces with the kit. Just received my seats (BO). They are very nice! Waiting for my wheels though, hopefully soon because I’m ready for them in my build.

[edwardb]

Today I completed the inventory. Took my time looking at all the parts, looking up what I didn't immediately recognize, etc. Same as I often suggest to other builders. Worth the extra time. I left all the parts in their original boxes and added the "backfill parts" where they go. I'll do the same with the POL parts. I'm fortunate to have room in my basement to lay out all the boxes and access as I build. I now have a few hours of work left to flatten out all the cushioning, a few extra boxes, etc. What big problems we have. :rolleyes: I have only eight (8) POL items. Mostly minor. Wheels and the special anodized black aluminum parts for the 30th are the main ones. As for missing or discrepancies, only three (3). Every single part FFR showed as shipped was there. So great job and maybe their new systems with the bar coding, etc. is helping. What i found was the inner sleeves for the PS bushings were missing (others have reported that too), I received two of the same steering arms versus a left and right, and nothing anywhere about the sway bar kits that were supposed to be part of this package. I'm confident everything will be addressed. Lots of things for me to do now.

Couple of comments. I've done multiple builds over the past 15 years or so, and it's very obvious FFR keeps making significant improvements. Examined the body closely and it looks excellent. The new frame is what I expected, e.g. much like my Gen 3 Coupe, but well executed with nice welds, pretty clean, etc. Lots of parts improvements, like LED headlights and tail lights, integrated turn signal, improved switches, the forged control arms are amazing, a soft car cover (really?), etc. Speedhut made some nice changes with their gauges, including LED lighting with a dimmer included, the newer 3-wire oil pressure sensor, etc. The special 30th Anniversary parts are nice of course, e.g. seats, door cards, etc. This is the first time I've received their "fastener packs" versus loose hardware. In this case, one for the overall Mk5 and another for the IRS. The parts are all bagged and tagged, so that's good. I would appreciate a list of what's there so I can check (which I've asked for) but otherwise an OK change IMO.

On the negative side, I do miss not receiving the hood pins and mounts (:p) received on previous kits. I guess they finally ran out. Now the same thing needs to happen with that obsolete transmission speed sensor they keep providing. On a more serious note, maybe some improvement for not providing duplicate parts. With a Coyote build (clearly known in the order plus the Coyote install kit) I don't need a throttle cable and some of the fuel line components. I also only need one shifter vs. two. Probably a few other examples. This kind of thing complicates the order process even more, so I get it. But hurts a little to set aside parts you paid for that you know won't be used.

Back to work!

[PNWTim]

Today I completed the inventory. Took my time looking at all the parts, looking up what I didn't immediately recognize, etc. Same as I often suggest to other builders. Worth the extra time. I left all the parts in their original boxes and added the "backfill parts" where they go. I'll do the same with the POL parts. I'm fortunate to have room in my basement to lay out all the boxes or access as I build. I now have a few hours of work left to flatten out all the cushioning, a few extra boxes, etc. What big problems we have. :rolleyes: I have only eight (8) POL items. Mostly minor. Wheels and the special anodized black aluminum parts for the 30th are the main ones. As for missing or discrepancies, only three (3). Every single part FFR showed as shipped was there. So great job and maybe their new systems with the bar coding, etc. is helping. What i found was the inner sleeves for the PS bushings were missing (others have reported that too), I received two of the same steering arms versus a left and right, and nothing anywhere about the sway bar kits that were supposed to be part of this package. I'm confident everything will be addressed. Lots of things for me to do now.

Couple of comments. I've done multiple builds over the past 15 years or so, and it's very obvious FFR keeps making significant improvements. Examined the body closely and it looks excellent. The new frame is what I expected, e.g. much like my Gen 3 Coupe, but well executed with nice welds, pretty clean, etc. Lots of parts improvements, like LED headlights and tail lights, integrated turn signal, improved switches, the forged control arms are amazing, a soft car cover (really?), etc. Speedhut made some nice changes with their gauges, including LED lighting with a dimmer included, the newer 3-wire oil pressure sensor, etc. The special 30th Anniversary parts are nice of course, e.g. seats, door cards, etc. This is the first time I've received their "fastener packs" versus loose hardware. In this case, one each for the overall Mk5 and another for the IRS. The parts are all bagged and tagged, so that's good. I would appreciate a list of what's there so I can check (which I've asked for) but otherwise an OK change IMO.

On the negative side, I do miss not receiving the hood pins and mounts (:p) received on previous kits. I guess they finally ran out. Now the same thing needs to happen with that obsolete transmission speed sensor they keep providing. On a more serious note, maybe some improvement for not providing duplicate parts. With a Coyote build (clearly known in the order plus the Coyote install kit) I don't need a throttle cable and some of the fuel line components. I also only need one shifter vs. two. Probably a few other examples. This kind of thing complicates the order process even more, so I get it. But hurts a little to set aside parts you paid for that you know won't be used.

Back to work!

Glad to here everything is mostly complete. Your last paragraph hit a note with me. I have one of the larger square boxes set aside that I have slowly been adding brand new, not to be used, redundant or unnecessary parts.

I really struggle with pitching brand new items even though I know they are not wanted by others and can't be used by me. It would seem, when you order the Coyote, that it should trigger a "delete list" to remove all hardware which is deemed not applicable. I can only assume it is more trouble than it's worth? Not sure, but congratulations on your delivery and I look forward to following along.

[Sharris2]

Thanks, what wiper arms and blades did you use on the coupe? Will they be the same on the mark 5?

[edwardb]

Thanks, what wiper arms and blades did you use on the coupe? Will they be the same on the mark 5?

The Coupe has (2) ANCO Adjustable Wiper Arms 44-01 and (2) ANCO 52-Series Clear-Flex Wiper Blades 5215 (15"). Much too long for the Roadster windshield. I've used the Specialty Power Windows WWK2 system on a couple builds but not a Roadster yet. Others have and I'm not worried it won't fit or be suitable. According to my past build records I'll need 10" blades. Haven't sourced them yet.

[edwardb]

I heard back from FFR about my backorders and discrepancies. A box of parts is promised for next week (July 4 holiday got in the way) and many of my items should be cleared. One of my “discrepancies” wasn’t. The rack bushings were in another box (duh). Right now the longest lead items are wheels (at least 3-6 weeks), the black anodized panels (problem at the plater TBD), and assembled louvers (TBD). In general, nothing is going to hold me up with the rest of the parts hopefully here soon. Would be nice to have the panels, but plenty I can do before they arrive.

So finally to jump into assembly. It’s been hot here (like everywhere) including the garage shop. So I’ve spent the majority of my time in the basement working on various subassemblies. With the IRS option, started with the Ford Performance knuckles/hubs and diff. Ford ships the knuckles and hubs unassembled, which is nice. First up was removing the metric studs from the hubs and replacing with the 1/2-20 studs so they match the front hubs. My go-to method to remove them is my precision piece of black pipe in a large bench vise. With a little persuasion they push right out. I’m not a fan of hammering on the hubs like in the manual. To install the new ones, I use the method now shown in the manual. A stack of greased washers, a hardened nut, and an impact wrench. They pull right in with my trusty Milwaukee M12 impact wrench. One hint. Sand or file a small flat spot on the flange of the new studs and orient that toward the center when you install them. Otherwise they contact the seal on the hub. Maybe not a problem but best to stay away. Note the Ford studs all have a small flat on them. A lot on the forum about builders who dread changing the studs. It’s really not that bad…

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215899&d=1751754726

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215900&d=1751754726

Next up, I cut the pieces off the spindles. Shown in the manual, but I don’t cut them quite as close as they show. It’s not necessary. Close and it uncovers a hole in the end. Not an issue, just don’t care for it. I cut them on my bandsaw and then clean up on the disk sander. Then drilled the 5/8” holes. This can be a “grabby” experience. I find that if I use a step drill up to the 5/8” size from both sides, it takes off quite a bit of material and makes using the regular 5/8” bit to finish a little easier. I filed and sanded the rough edges of the mold lines just to clean them up. Also added a cover over the wheel sensor holes. Probably not necessary, but they are a direct path down to the bearings. Finally, sprayed Duplicolor DE1636 clear spray on the knuckles and POR15 on the hubs. I’ve used that spray on multiple builds and seems to hold up well. Looks a little better IMO and easier to clean up during those winter detailing sessions. The POR15 I’ve also used on multiple builds. Looks good and keeps the steel parts from turning rust orange.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215902&d=1751754751

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Next up the IRS diff. I used my shop crane to lift it out of the box. Overkill but that 100+ pounds just isn’t nice to my back. A little bit of lube with the famous friction modifier had spilled out of the temporary side plugs and onto the packing material. Smelling up my garage. Needed to deal with that. My first IRS diff 10 years ago was a new take-out, but still already orange with rust. I don’t know when Ford started putting the black finish on these, but it’s nice. Guessing the Mustang crowd wasn’t a fan of the big orange lump under their cars. I cleaned up and sprayed all over with Duplicolor DE1636. For the same reasons. I’ll get it off the crane, drill the 5/8” holes, and it will be ready to install into the chassis. Side note: I’ve decided against installing a Torsen locker for now. They’re expensive and really don’t want to tear into a brand new diff. It’s something I could change in the future but I suspect I won’t. As much as I like the Torsen in the Coupe, I’ll see how this one drives in comparison. I installed the driveshaft adapter. One minor issue. The provided socket head cap screws don’t fit into the countersinks in the adapter. Basically it’s just the knurling on the screws that creates interference. I put each in my drill press and spun with a file against the head of each. Then they go in. Seem to recall this from the last build as well. Drove in the supplied vent nipple with a little red Loctite. FFR supplies a short piece of hose to route the vent line.

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[edwardb]

Next I dug out all the forged aluminum arms. Nothing to do to them other than to match up all the required mounting hardware. I like how all the Roadster and IRS hardware is bagged and tagged with the part numbers and descriptions. One hint to FFR: The IRS instructions start out great referencing the part numbers. But then it stops. Only the descriptions. Not a big issue with me because I’ve done these before. But for new builders, it would be a huge help to consistently provide the actual part numbers for hardware in the build manual. I decided to install the LCA’s in both the front and rear of the chassis. After cleaning the powder coat out of the holes, the mounting bolts went in relatively easily. A little spreading with the nuts and washers on a threaded rod for several, but not bad. The forged arms fit perfectly. What a great improvement those are. Congratulations FFR for ongoing improvements. While I was at it, also installed the UCA’s in the front. Didn’t do any more for the IRS until the diff is installed. I’m using the red dot method of marking as I finish torquing the bolts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215903&d=1751754793

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Small detail, but you may notice I have a large washer on each side of the rear leg of the front LCA. The manual shows one to account for the different width of donor LCA's. But the gaps were wide enough that a one on each side fit better. I didn't want to crank down on either tabs or the forged aluminum arms to close that much of a gap. Maybe not an issue, but another washer was better IMO. Hey FFR. Is anyone really building these any more with donor LCA's? Especially now with these trick forged aluminum arms? How about adjusting those tabs for your LCA's and be done with it? Like every other location.

For the front hubs, I removed the ABS sensor ring as I have in the past. Not needed since I'm not doing ABS and looks cleaner without. I’ve mentioned this before, but they’re simple to remove. Cut about 2/3 of the way through with a Dremel cut-off wheel between two of the teeth. Then stick a screwdriver in the cut slot. A sharp hammer strike on the screwdriver and the ring breaks and falls off. I put POR15 on the front hubs as well. Note that I don’t have the spindles on yet. One of my discrepancies is I received two of the same side steering arms. Not sure which I received, but I sent pictures to FFR and they’re going to send me the one I’m missing. The other issue is I really tried to use and install the Mevotech upper ball joints. I wire brushed the threads until all the black (paint or PC?) was gone but they still don’t thread in more than a couple turns. Maybe if I really forced them they would go. But that’s not my style and can’t help but think they would be nearly impossible to remove if ever necessary. I’m going to spring for the Howe Racing 22320S ball joints again. Along with Energy Suspension boots. Doubt it makes any difference in how the car drives. Hurts but they’re quality parts. Go right in like ball joints are supposed to.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215909&d=1751754997

I assembled the Koni dual adjustable shocks that came with the Anniversary package. This is the third build I’ve done with them. Nice parts. The overrider assembly is completely straightforward. Exactly per the manual. As far as adjustments are concerned, based on what I’ve done before, first placed both compression and rebound at the minimum softest value on all four. Then added two clicks (of 12 available) to rebound. Recommended on the forum as likely providing a better more controlled ride than the minimum setting. I have my Coupe set this way and I’m happy with it. Not that how I drive it or my expertise as a driver would suggest otherwise.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215908&d=1751754974

Finally, broke into the Wilwood boxes. This is the third time I’ve used this exact setup. A couple of minor part number changes but everything is physically the same. I put the hats and rotors together per the instructions with red Loctite and the prescribed inch-pound torque. Interestingly, I noticed that Wilwood now includes a large caution paper in the box to make sure you’re setting them with inch-pound and not ft-lb. Recall a couple forum members made this mistake. I guess we’re not alone. I installed safety wires as well. Probably not required, but it’s kind of a rite of passage for using these brakes, right? Since I only do this every couple of years, takes a few to get the hang of it again. Only had to cut off a few fails. Not perfect but serviceable.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215898&d=1751754574

Final comment. I started working on the e-brake handle today. That assembly doesn’t get a lot of love from some forum members. I’ve used it on two builds and actually I’m OK with it. Some builds add E-Stops or even the Wilwood electric e-brakes right on the rotors. Nice, but neither are cheap options and actually I don’t mind the manual handle. Especially up on the tunnel like it is in my Coupe and now the Mk5 Roadster. What I noticed is that FFR has modified their e-brake handle with some added parts and it’s much more robust. There’s still a couple changes that I recommend but it’s not a bad part IMO. I’ll show the finished handle and talk more about it my next update once it’s assembled.

I need to get busy and take the body off my chassis. I think I’m going to hang it over my work area. I’m out of space plus my ceiling is high enough that it’s out of the way and easily lowered if I want to do some added fittings during the build. I’m going to take a bunch of measurements of the under hood clearances before removing though. The old guidance for the Mk4 doesn’t apply any more.

That’s it and more than enough for now.

[PNWTim]

Good progress as usual Paul. Glad to see the documentation. I haven't really understood the lack of part number references either. With the digital manual it seems like it would be a no brainer and for a first time kit builder like myself, it is a constant challenge to ensure I am selecting the correct hardware (after I find it).

When I assembled my e-brake handle I used some nylon washers to remove the last bit of slop and make it actuate a little more smoothly. I was reminded by another member the benefit of the e-brake - last ditch braking in the event of a hydraulic failure. I was going down the path of the Wilwood electronic and switched gears and am happy I did so. I also kind of like the retro-ness of the tunnel mounted handle.

[Ejzajac]

Another great Paul build documentary. Waiting for my delivery and grateful for your insights.
1. What size pipe nipple is used to extract the metric studs? Would an appropriate size deep socket work?
2. The manual shows cutting the knuckle approximately 1/8" from the top hole. How much further away did you begin the cut? Do you extend it to the lower angle as shown in the manual?
Thanks again. How exciting.
Ed Z

[edwardb]

Another great Paul build documentary. Waiting for my delivery and grateful for your insights.
1. What size pipe nipple is used to extract the metric studs? Would an appropriate size deep socket work?
2. The manual shows cutting the knuckle approximately 1/8" from the top hole. How much further away did you begin the cut? Do you extend it to the lower angle as shown in the manual?
Thanks again. How exciting.
Ed Z

Thanks. Good luck with your build. It's an adventure for sure. For your questions:

1. The piece of black pipe is a 1" (1.315 OD) x 3" nipple from one of the big box stores. It's placed against the back side of the hub (e.g. the side with the stud flanges) and long enough to extend past the part of the hub that attaches to the knuckle. Then into the vise with the end of the wheel stud against one jaw and the end of the pipe against the other jaw. With everything squared up and some robust squeezing, the studs come out. I have a pretty big vise and actually lightly tap the handle with a dead blow hammer to get it started. But that's me. I'm not Charles Atlas. Probably wouldn't work with a small vise. The cut-out is necessary to clear knuckle side of the hub and get the end of the pipe flat on the hub. A socket isn't going to work unless it's long enough and you make the same cutout. A $3 black pipe nipple is a better choice if you go this route. A properly fixtured shop press is probably a better and more elegant solution. I don't have one and keep looking for an excuse to buy one. Haven't yet...

2. The dimension and angle for the cut to the knuckle isn't real critical. Given the amount of clearance, I just haven't seen the need to cut as much off as they show. I took this picture during an earlier IRS build. As you can see, lots of clearance even with leaving it a bit longer as I have.

215949

[Caddy Dad]

Looking forward to following your build. That aluminator engine is HUGE!

[Race Ratz]

215967
Edward, I saw your car at the Factory Five 2017 open house. You build great cars. I bought the 4th red one to the right from you from that show. Looking forward to following your 30th anniversary build. Ron Everitt build.

[edwardb]

215967
Edward, I saw your car at the Factory Five 2017 open house. You build great cars. I bought the 4th red one to the right from you from that show. Looking forward to following your 30th anniversary build. Ron Everitt build.

That was my 20th Anniversary build. Time flies! Long discussion with my wife today about whether the 30th Anniversary build (this one) will be red. She wants me to do something different. We'll see.

[edwardb]

Looking forward to following your build. That aluminator engine is HUGE!

Actually, it's the same size as a Coyote other than the slightly taller Cobra Jet intake. But then again, Coyote's are huge.

[edwardb]

Since Tim mentioned the E-brake handle and I finished it today, I’ll go ahead and post about it. Normally, assembling this would be pretty routine. But I’ve found that FFR has made some significant changes to the handle assembly. Some complained about it in the past. It’s a lot better now. Plus, when I assemble these I make a couple minor changes which I’ll share.

The last handle I built is in my Coupe from 5+ years ago. Did a couple before that and they all seemed the same. They’ve all worked OK for me. But when I unpacked the handle parts in the Mk5 kit, I found some were added. Went back and looked at the drawings in the build manuals. The Coupe drawing is marked Rev B. The Mk5 build manual drawing is Rev C. Mainly what I see is they’ve added parts to make the handle more robust instead of wobbly and kind of weak feeling. This is a picture of the parts provided, which I painted with Steel-It 1012D Polyurethane Satin Black Paint. My new favorite for steel parts I don’t want to leave bare and don't get powder coated. For whatever reason the lighting makes the black shades look different. They're not. See the final assembly pictures. The circled items are new with Rev C. These are part of the assembly stack and add major rigidity to the handle.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215968&d=1751847620

Also seen in this picture are the bronze bushings that I prefer over the supplied plastic bushings. These are the same ones that FFR uses elsewhere in the hood, doors, etc. They need to be cut down a little but not hard to do. Total of three. Two in the large fixed gear piece. IMO these work smoother and should last longer.

The other mod that I make is I don’t care for the spring pin on the ratchet tooth. I use a 10-32 socket head screw and add a washer on each side to better stabilize the ratchet tooth. Also visible in this picture on the LH side is the doubler that’s one of the new parts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215969&d=1751847620

Here are the pictures of the completed assembly. The circled piece in the first pic is the other new piece with the spacers underneath. Significantly changes how solid the handle is.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215970&d=1751847620

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215955&d=1751841387

The 90 degree brackets included with the handle kit aren't used. The handle bolts onto tabs installed in the tunnel top of the Mk5 chassis. Just like the Gen 3 Coupe. Shout out to Factory Five for improving this assembly. Don’t know when it exactly happened. May be old news for some. But new to me.

[Race Ratz]

That was my 20th Anniversary build. Time flies! Long discussion with my wife today about whether the 30th Anniversary build (this one) will be red. She wants me to do something different. We'll see.

Ron Everitt built a MKV no roll bars. With AC/Heat. It’s was in Factory Five’s showroom at the 30th Open House. Nice car. Going there today. I live close by. 215990

[edwardb]

So my buddy Greg came over today to help me lift the body off. Relatively straightforward. Still working to sell the airplane and clear some space. Temporarily I plan to put the body in my Serpent Express trailer. Should be fine there, but not my first choice. I'm going to build a body buck but haven't yet. In the meantime, braced it with a piece between the cockpit front and back, 24" vertical 2x4's under the body in the location of the windshield post cutouts (per the build manual), and a 2x4 horizontally under the bottom front. It's laying flat with no obvious stress anywhere. OK for now. This exposed the chassis.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216144&d=1752116381

As we're looking at it we also looked at the rear diff that I had ready to go. I told him I would need some help sometime to put that in too. Then I suggested why not now? 30 minutes or so later it was in. Helps to have done this a few times. Put a layer of towels on the chassis and pushed the nose up into the opening. Then forward enough to get close and work on getting the bolt locations lined up. It was tighter between the mounting bosses than I think from the past. But it has been a couple years. Maybe FFR tightened up the tolerances on the Mk5? The rear bolts were first and started those into the threaded bosses in the rear cover. Then worked to get the front ones lined up. Took some pushing to get close and then my drift pins (aka sanded down bolts) that I've used every time helped to get them aligned. First front bolt went in easily. Second a little harder because the sleeve wanted to push out. But we got it and I have them torqued down now. Looks good in there. I know every builder of the IRS breathes a big sigh of relief when this thing is in.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216141&d=1752116252

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216142&d=1752116252

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216143&d=1752116252

Placed some Summit and Breeze orders today. Some here tomorrow. Some Friday. Also got a FedEx shipping notice from Factory Five. 56# in three boxes. Nice. Should make a dent in my POL and MIK list. Supposed to be here Friday.

[Homer]

The other issue is I really tried to use and install the Mevotech upper ball joints. I wire brushed the threads until all the black (paint or PC?) was gone but they still don’t thread in more than a couple turns. Maybe if I really forced them they would go. But that’s not my style and can’t help but think they would be nearly impossible to remove if ever necessary. I’m going to spring for the Howe Racing 22320S ball joints again. Along with Energy Suspension boots. Doubt it makes any difference in how the car drives. Hurts but they’re quality parts. Go right in like ball joints are supposed to.


I had the same problem with the Type 65 and also went with the Howe ball joints as per your suggestion. For the MkV, the Mevotech ball joints threaded in easily making me think that maybe the hit or miss problem with the UCAs and ball joints were fixed. But, I guess not!

[edwardb]

Lots of progress this week. This is the time when it seems like the build is going fast. Like building a house. The frame goes up quickly and you think it’s not going to take too long. Then by outward appearance it slows down with all the detail work. And I'm not a fast builder. Anyway, I received three nice boxes from Factory Five this week. I’m down to only three backorder items: Black anodized aluminum panels, wheels, and the side louvers. Panels are promised soon. The others longer but that’s OK.

Before I show this week’s progress, I want to make this disclaimer: Throughout my build you will see me sometime use parts other than those in the kit. Except for a couple (I’m looking at you fuel filler neck to tank seal and for me anyway Mevotech ball joints…) those are personal choices based on several builds, experience, bias, etc. Not because there’s anything wrong with the Factory Five kit parts. I’ve said in multiple posts that if a complete kit is built bone stock with the parts provided using the build manual, you’ll end up with a perfectly safe and well driving car. The fact is these are a blank canvas for some of us to make changes. Whether a good reason to or not. I enjoy that aspect. But takes nothing away from the kit itself.

With that, here’s what I got done. While waiting for my boxes to arrive, I assembled the Wilwood pedal box and installed it. First evidence of more room in the footbox. Will get a closer look when the panels are installed. Also nice to see an almost proper mount for the Coyote accelerator pedal (DBW). See how that works with everything else around it. Not too much to say. Standard installation per the manual including the Coyote clutch safety switch. These comments: I installed the brake light bracket and switch on the brake pedal. But not one on the clutch pedal. The manual shows a second one but not needed with a Coyote build and the Ford Performance switch and the brackets provided in the FF Coyote completion kit. I had to buy a third MC for my hydraulic clutch. I already have a Tilton hydraulic release bearing in my engine. With all the kerfuffle about Wilwood vs. Tilton MC’s, I went ahead and bought/installed a Tilton MC to give one a try. Same price so why not. Looks a little beefier but installed OK. We’ll see. Note I left the brace piece unfinished. I have a no steel parts left unfinished policy and I know a lot of guys powder coat that piece. Except it’s stainless steel. Plus, completely covered. I’ve noticed a number of FF fabricated parts are stainless now. Nice. Finally, something to watch for. The inside most MC can interfere with the frame rail. I bent the mounting tabs on that side down slightly plus made sure the MC was at the bottom of the mounting studs (there’s a little wiggle room) and mine just barely clears.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216332&d=1752444804

Received my Howe Racing ball joints (refer to disclaimer above). They threaded right in with Blue Loctite 243 and I added a witness mark to verify they don’t turn or loosen. Used DYKEM Cross-Check Torque Seal, a product I learned about during my airplane build. Used on nearly every fastener there. Assembled the spindles and torqued the top and bottom ball joints. The bottom one is easy. The top one has limited access. Many say they can’t get a torque wrench in there. True. But add a crowfoot and it’s also easy. Just make sure the crowfoot is at 90 degrees to the wrench and the torque value is unchanged. I’m using a different PS rack than the kit one (again, disclaimer…) and I’m waiting on the rack extenders so it’s not installed yet. I’ll describe more once it’s in. Stopped on the front suspension for now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216326&d=1752444730

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216327&d=1752444730

Moved to the IRS and it’s basically done except for finishing the Wilwood brake installation and installing the sway bar. All the hard stuff is done. Not much to say here either. Everything was just like the build manual. I do have to say pulling all those 100 ft/lb torque values seems harder than it used to be. Hmmm. I absolutely love the new forged aluminum control arms. Unlike previous installations, took very little massaging to get everything in place. With one exception and this is something to watch for. Generally, you want the big mounting bolts to go in with minimal interference. If you’re having to twist, bend, push, whatever to get the bolts through (or worse yet beating on them with a hammer), stop. It’s not difficult to put the joint in a slight bind. I thought I was all done after a long hot afternoon of work yesterday and noticed on the front joint of the UCA, the control arm was rotating around the furthest forward poly bushing rather than the poly bushing being stationery and rotating around the steel sleeve. The poly bushing was bound against the chassis mount at a slight angle. Starting fresh this morning, removed the bolt and could see it didn’t quite align with the front mount hole. Little bit of work with a burr in a die grinder and the bolt was free to go in. Torqued the joint down and problem solved. Poly bushing now rotating as it should. I checked the other side (again, front mount on the UCA) and it was also tight. Did the same rework and now also moves freely. Note all of this was done after grease had been put into the joints. So lack of grease wasn’t the problem. The CV axles went in with just a little persuasion. The axle nuts are as tight as my 12V impact gun will get them. I’ll do the full torque when wheels/tires are mounted and it’s on the ground. Once everything was together, was able to get the 95 ft/lbs on the hub to knuckle bolts. Couldn’t easily hold them with the assembly loose. Not much else to say. Super happy with how everything turned out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216328&d=1752444770

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216329&d=1752444770

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216331&d=1752444770

Finally, several builders have commented or questioned about the piece that gets cut off the knuckles. The instructions show a location to cut. Probably OK but I’ve left them a little longer so it doesn’t get into the holes that go through that area plus leaves a little more material. Which probably doesn’t matter. This picture from above shows how much clearance there is.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216330&d=1752444770

Filled the recycle bin with cardboard earlier tonight. I guess that means progress is being made.

[Redstang69]

Coming along nicely, always fun to watch the fast progress of this part of a build.
Any reason why FF hasn't made an adjustment to the CA mounts to account for the powder coat? I started reading on here in 21 and I think every build has this same issue.
Same with the ball joints, I'd almost think FF would stock the two common ones and try them and ship the ones that that in with the kit.
Great detail in your thread.

[edwardb]

Coming along nicely, always fun to watch the fast progress of this part of a build.
Any reason why FF hasn't made an adjustment to the CA mounts to account for the powder coat? I started reading on here in 21 and I think every build has this same issue,

CA = Control Arms? My sense after several builds is adjusting the control arm mounts isn't about powder coat. It's more about metal moving when it's welded. The process at FF is the frames are initially built in a fixture where everything is precision located and tack welded. Then removed from the fixture and fully welded on a rotisserie. The actual locations aren't going to change but the metal could move enough to need spreading or whatever for assembly. It's really not a big deal. I found, as I mentioned, the new forged arms are very accurate and I had to do less adjustment on the frame than before.


Same with the ball joints, I'd almost think FF would stock the two common ones and try them and ship the ones that that in with the kit.
Great detail in your thread.

Thanks. The ball joints remain a bit of a mystery. I tried the various tricks that others have posted to get the supplied ball joints to go in. I guess I've just have bad luck. But I also refuse to manhandle them as much as I've seen others do. I agree this is something that could be better. Those front upper control arms are from an outside company (SPC Performance) and IMO are quality parts. I don't think the issue is there. I've had zero issues with the higher quality Howe Racing ball joints. But they're 2-3 times the cost, or more, so don't expect them to be supplied in the kit.

[PNWTim]

It's interesting that your upper pedal box is stainless and appears to have slotted screw holes. Mine, along with many others, is steel and didn't fit. I ended up cutting, bending and welding it to fit properly. Looks like you are the beneficiary of the continual improvement program.

It's interesting to note I couldn't use the Mevotech ball joints either and I tried everything. I didn't buy the Howe Racing replacements but rather an off the shelf Moog part which was quite inexpensive and threaded right in. It's a bit of a mystery to me why they don't just ditch those and replace with what I used as they were maybe $10 more than the supplied part. Go figure.

[edwardb]

It's interesting to note I couldn't use the Mevotech ball joints either and I tried everything. I didn't buy the Howe Racing replacements but rather an off the shelf Moog part which was quite inexpensive and threaded right in. It's a bit of a mystery to me why they don't just ditch those and replace with what I used as they were maybe $10 more than the supplied part. Go figure.

I tried the Moog parts a couple builds ago. One went in fine. The other hung up similar to the Mevotechs. Returned them. Like I said, I've just had bad luck with this several times. Based on a forum recommendation I tried the Howe Racing parts and haven't ever had an issue with them. I really tried to avoid using them this time because of the cost and I'm not sure they make any real difference with the final suspension. But wasn't to be.

[Blitzboy54]

Any need to trim the upper A arm sleave? Is that different on the MKV or just your process to wait?

[edwardb]

Any need to trim the upper A arm sleave? Is that different on the MKV or just your process to wait?

My process is to wait. It wasn't necessary on my Gen 3 Coupe with the similar chassis. Was able to achieve the PS caster setting with no trimming. Time will tell.

[wareaglescott]

I’m late to the party Paul but congrats on starting another build. Something just feels right about logging into the forum and reading updates on a EdwardB build! About 10 years since I first logged onto this forum and realized what a great community of people are here and particularly people like you to help so many others.
I look forward to following along and seeing you produce another masterpiece!

[edwardb]

I’m late to the party Paul but congrats on starting another build. Something just feels right about logging into the forum and reading updates on a EdwardB build! About 10 years since I first logged onto this forum and realized what a great community of people are here and particularly people like you to help so many others. I look forward to following along and seeing you produce another masterpiece!

Thanks Scott. Appreciate your comments. I still have your picture on my bulletin board of you kneeling in front of your Roadster build. The one FF ran in several publications. Has it really been 10 years ago?

[wareaglescott]

Thanks Scott. Appreciate your comments. I still have your picture on my bulletin board of you kneeling in front of your Roadster build. The one FF ran in several publications. Has it really been 10 years ago?

Actually 9 this summer since my kit delivered. Ive aged at least 10 since then though so I am counting it! haha

[edwardb]

I’ve been jumping around a bit. Not rocket science or original, but my approach is to first install or at least mockup as many of the “fixed” items as possible. This includes things like the front and rear suspension, fuel tank, radiator, pedal box, hood hinges, e-brake, battery, and ultimately the engine and trans. With these in place, things such as fuel lines, brake lines, and the electrical harness can be mapped out since they’re more flexible. Add to that underhood pieces like brake and clutch reservoirs, overflow tanks, wiper motor, heat-A/C components (if used), and my case with a Coyote based engine the power distribution box (PDB), PCM, and additional wire harness. Even though I’ve built other Roadsters, the Mk5 is different in many ways so I’ve been focusing on this aspect to start. At some point, I’ll tear into the panels but for now leaving them off. Mocking up takes time, but at least for me ends up with a neat and thought-out build. What I enjoy. Note this basically does follow the build sequence in the manual.

Finished up the rear suspension with the Wilwood brakes and sway bar. Very straightforward. For those new to the IRS setup and adding a sway bar, make sure you have the added sway bar brackets on hand during the IRS assembly. The bolts for the LCA and toe arm also capture this bracket. If you go back and add it later (or forget), you’ll get to take things apart. The sway bar pics include the fuel tank that I’ll describe next.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216533&d=1752961199

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216534&d=1752961199

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216535&d=1752961258

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216536&d=1752961258

The fuel tank mounting is similar to the Roadster and also the Gen 3 Coupe. The usual plastic pads on the front, then along the frame rail in the back, and the same fuel tank straps. Speaking of straps, when is FF going to supply straps that have the proper size opening for the rear tie downs on the back of the chassis? The 3/8” bolts don’t nearly fit. Not something you want to drill out to possibly weaken. I use a scrap 3/8” bolt with a taper sanded on the end and drive it through from both sides of the straps to expand the openings. It works but seems it shouldn’t be necessary. Before hanging the tank, I installed the kit supplied sender. After confirming it read the proper ohms, in limits at 15.3 - 160.5 ohms through the float range. I installed a Holley Sniper EFI 12-345+ 340 LPH pump. Came with the engine I purchased and seemed like a good choice. Different from the now very expensive Pro-M Racing High Flow Fuel Pump Hanger and Walbro pump combination I’ve used before. I replaced the kit supplied fuel tank filler seal with the Ford OEM F4ZZ-9072-DA part from Breeze. Highly recommended. I’ve also used Breeze’s big bore vent check valve kit on all my builds. Not positive it’s necessary but did it again. Not in the manual, but I put some 1/8” neoprene cushion material along the back of the frame where the tank contacts. Did the same on my Coupe. The manual shows putting in the filler neck at this point. My choice is to leave it off until later. Don’t like it flopping around back there and possibly damaging the seal. I’ll add some tape over it for now. Just a personal choice. With that, the tank went in and after the usual slight struggle with the bolt lengths on the front mounts, it’s in. Out of curiosity, I set in the trunk floor and trunk box. FF didn’t waste any space there! It’s tight all around. Something to watch for.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216537&d=1752961284

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216539&d=1752961284

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216538&d=1752961284

[edwardb]

I’ve added a shroud for the cooling fan on all my builds so doing the same here. Received the part from Breeze. Mounted per his usual excellent instructions including trimming a little off the bottom as he noted. I installed 1/4 x 20 nutserts for the fan mount so I don’t have to chase washers and nuts inside. Mocked up the installation and everything fits but also pretty tight. The radiator mounting has a crossover piece on the top similar to the Gen 3 Coupe and rests on a frame rail on the bottom. Very solid and a significant improvement.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216540&d=1752961284

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216541&d=1752961284

I noticed that the hood hinges were close to the radiator mounts so dug out the hood hinges and mocked them up. One hint: I appreciate they’re laser cut and bent from stainless. But take some time to clean them up. Sand off the little nibs on the edges of most of the pieces. They’re sharp. Also take the time to file the surfaces flat. The metal bends up slightly on the corners of the pieces where they’re bent and even across some of the holes. This could affect the fit when assembled. Plus just looks better. I also had to clean up and slightly enlarge the holes for the bronze bushings. Toss the wavy washers. I also dug plain nuts out of my junk drawer for the mockup. I generally save lock nuts for final assembly. Allows hand assembly at this point plus while not mandatory, I try to treat lock nuts as one-time use. Another personal choice and subject to some discussion. But they don't get better with repeated use. With all that, appears the hood hinges will clear the radiator and all good. Also note in the pic the upper hose connection snakes through the frame nicely.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216542&d=1752961311

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216543&d=1752961311

For my last mockup, I wanted to see how the newly routed steering column would go through the pedal box. Also wanted to confirm the Coyote DBW mount and clearance of the connector to the steering column. Both can be a challenge with the Gen 3 Coupe. Happy to report it looks good. Nice work FF! If necessary, the mounting holes on the DBW mount could be slotted a little and move the pedal down another 1/4" or so and still be flush on the mount. Might do that just to be sure I don't get any contact on the steering shaft from the harness. Took the time also to sand and polish the upper steering shaft so that it slid into the lower shaft with only slight resistance. The seller of my engine had also purchased the AC pedals from Forte. Don’t know if I’ll use them because they can’t be adjusted side-to-side like the Wilwood pedals. But they look kind of cool. We’ll see. I also still need to shorten the Coyote DBW accelerator arm. I’m going to copy what I did on the Coupe.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216545&d=1752961311

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216544&d=1752961311

Still sorting out what I’m going to do with the steering rack. So the front suspension isn’t done yet. But overall progress, for me anyway, is moving at a decent pace. In unrelated big news, at least for me, my Sling TSi airplane project is sold and the buyer picked it up this weekend. Kind of mixed feelings as I get way too emotionally invested in my projects. As the build progressed, it was pretty clear I would sell it when done. But couldn't quite get it over the finish line unless I waited until sometime next year for the build center that was going to paint and do the final assembly. Neither of which could be done here at home. The new owner has built and painted two Vans RV's. So the perfect buyer to finish it. Only a couple hours away and has promised to keep me up-to-date with his progress. Most know that although a lifelong aviation enthusiast, and I’ve had a couple lessons, I’m not a licensed pilot. This was all about the build and was a lifelong dream. Although a lot of work I really enjoyed it. On a side note, enjoying the newfound space in my garage shop.

[Ejzajac]

Always enjoy the details of your builds. I believe ie 427 now makes pedal modifications to allow lateral shifts of the Forte pedal. For an extra $60.00, it may help you out.
Ed Z

[edwardb]

Always enjoy the details of your builds. I believe ie 427 now makes pedal modifications to allow lateral shifts of the Forte pedal. For an extra $60.00, it may help you out.
Ed Z

Thanks for following and for the input. If I need to move the pedals I'll just go back to the Wilwoods. I put the Forte ones on there to see what they look like. I'll use them if the spacing works. Otherwise not.

[edwardb]

Seems like I’m on a one-week schedule for updates. Still kind of jumping around but made some progress. I showed assembling the e-brake handle in a previous update. Decided to go ahead and mount the handle and run the cables. The routing turns out to be the same as on my Coupe build. All relatively straightforward but two things to point out. Easy one first. The kit includes adapters to hook the cables to the Wilwood e-brake calipers. Work fine except it’s necessary to trim about 1/8” off the crimped end of the cables. Otherwise, they don’t fit into the adapters. Shouldn’t be a problem because they’re fully crimped and seem quite robust.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216832&d=1753565025

I did find however that the cables were slightly short. They wouldn’t reach the rod end adjuster at the handle even with it screwed out all the way. Which wouldn't work anyway. I remembered this happened before with Wilwood brakes. Dug through my build manuals and found this page from my 20th anniversary build:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216830&d=1753565025

No mention of this in the Mk5 manual and no sign of the spacer brackets in the kit. But for whatever reason I had a set of them in my unused box from the past. Talk about luck. Added them and all is good. The e-brake calipers lock up solidly with the handle pulled as shown in this pic. Note to Factory Five: If the Wilwood adapters were longer (there's room) neither of these mods would be necessary. Seems an easy fix.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216831&d=1753565025

Another task was to modify the Coyote Drive-By-Wire (DBW) accelerator pedal. In stock form it’s about 1-1/2 inches too long. Factory Five has shown several options in their various Coyote installation instructions. But for my Coupe, I liberally borrowed a method from Shark92651 in his build thread. Decided to do the same thing again. His is in these two links:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27777-Shark92651-s-MK4-Coyote-Build-9327-Graduated!!&p=330500&viewfull=1#post330500

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27777-Shark92651-s-MK4-Coyote-Build-9327-Graduated!!&p=330764&viewfull=1#post330764

IMO, the genius to this version is the 3/16” aluminum backer added to the pedal pad. This provides a solid attachment to the shortened arm. I followed this approach on the Coupe and now this build. Fabricated the 3/16” aluminum piece to fit and hit with rattle can black. But I did change the actual attachment to the arm. If more of the plastic arm is left, there’s enough to attach with 10-32 screws into tapped holes in the 3/16" aluminum. I could tap another hole and add a bolt through the original mounting screw. But it seems very solid and for now don't think it's necessary. Here are pics of how it sits in the footbox. Note this is bolted to the FF provided chassis attachment. Nice. I'll tweak the pedal spacing if necessary once the footbox aluminum is installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216838&d=1753565172

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216839&d=1753565172

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216840&d=1753565172

[edwardb]

Mainly this week I finished the front suspension and brakes. I decided to use a different PS rack (reference disclaimer paragraph in post #55) so wanted to add rack extensions as typically done with stock width Fox body Mustang racks. Breeze was out of stock on his 1-inch extensions. Factory Five has them as well at 1-1/2” each. But this is a bit of a mystery to me. The new Fox body style rack I'm using is exactly 2 inches narrower than the PS rack that came with the kit. I'm assuming this is typical. So, the Breeze ones would duplicate that. The FF ones would be one inch wider which some told me was still OK. But I’ve found things start getting a little dicey stretching the stock boots that much. I was about ready to give up on the different rack idea and return it to Summit. But on a whim, I did a wanted post and was able to obtain still new in the package Breeze extenders from another forum member. Thanks Jeff (jab351w). With the extenders in place, installed the PSC RA33500 PS rack. Used Moog ES2150RL tie rod ends which I prefer and Energy Suspension ball joint boots here plus I previously installed them on the upper ball joints. Uneventful, although that support safety bracket on the RH side is another bit of mystery to me. With that, added the coilovers, front Wilwood brakes, and front sway bar. All pretty normal stuff. BTW, before someone points out the missing cotter pins in the tie rod ends, I do that on purpose. The first alignment sometimes require a number of turns on the tie rod ends. I just pop it out and spin the end directly. Find it a bit easier. Then it will get torqued and pinned.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216825&d=1753564962

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216826&d=1753564962

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216827&d=1753564962

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https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216833&d=1753565052

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216834&d=1753565052

So, two takeways that perhaps will be useful to other builders.

1. Remove the stock zerk fitting on the rear pivot joint of the front LCA and replace with a 90-degree zerk pointing down. Every Mk5 builder should do this. There is a frame obstruction directly in line with the stock zerk fitting and you won’t get a grease gun on it. Easy to access from the bottom with a 90-degree fitting instead. Optionally replace the front one as well then both are accessed from the bottom. But not necessary. Straight-in access through the frame is possible on the front fitting. Ideally, do this before installing the LCA. Not easy to change once installed. Ask me how I know. I had both metric and SAE zerks on hand. The SAE ones fit. I installed them with my favorite red Loctite.

2. When installing both the front and rear sway bars, initially it seems they won’t line up and the rod ends are at crazy angles making it hard to insert the bolts. That’s because at this stage the suspension is hanging. Lift the suspension up to approximate ride height and the assembly is much easier. Likely the coilovers are in place at this point, so I just back the adjustment collars off so you’re not trying to lift against the springs. There was a thread a few days ago where a Mk5 builder experienced interference between the rod ends and the front LCA’s. Mine came out close but no interference.

That’s it for this week. I’ve been jumping around working on other subassemblies and familiarizing myself with Mk5 differences. Probably more of the same this week. Also I'm going to build a body buck. Mainly stalling waiting for my anodized panels so I can dive into drilling and Clecos. I now own 500 – 600 Clecos because of my airplane build so I’m planning to win the sweepstakes for using the most on one of these builds.

[rponfick]

edwardb, I want to express our heartfelt thanks to you for bringing up the zerk fitting on the rear front lower control arm (that is with tongue in cheek). I spent most of the day on my creeper trying to get the zerks out on my completed front assembly. I have not succeeded yet. I must have put them in with severe torque or something like that. I now plan to unbolt the ball joint and lower the arm assembly to see if I can get better access to get them out.

You are correct that all Mk5 folks should be aware of this issue early on.

Thanks, I think. Or maybe I would have been better off noticing this years from now.

Ralph

[Tango]

Put me in the camp of those inexperienced enough to not realize those hidden zerk fittings should be addressed at the time of assembly….but also stubborn enough to find a solution. A 90deg adapter for the grease gun allows easy access to those hard to reach fittings. (Yes I wish I had changed them out, but for others like me who did not, there is a not so difficult solution). 217024

[edwardb]

edwardb, I want to express our heartfelt thanks to you for bringing up the zerk fitting on the rear front lower control arm (that is with tongue in cheek). I spent most of the day on my creeper trying to get the zerks out on my completed front assembly. I have not succeeded yet. I must have put them in with severe torque or something like that. I now plan to unbolt the ball joint and lower the arm assembly to see if I can get better access to get them out.

You are correct that all Mk5 folks should be aware of this issue early on.

Thanks, I think. Or maybe I would have been better off noticing this years from now.

Ralph

Sarcasm noted. :rolleyes: Greasing the chassis is part of my annual maintenance and I've seen others say the same thing. So "years" might be a little excessive. A little off topic, but especially the front UCA's. Those need to be watched closely. I struggled a little to get that bottom zerk out after assembly as well. One wasn't bad. The other fought back. I finally got it by clamping onto it firmly with a pair of vice grips. A tool of last resort but sometimes all that's left.


Put me in the camp of those inexperienced enough to not realize those hidden zerk fittings should be addressed at the time of assembly….but also stubborn enough to find a solution. A 90deg adapter for the grease gun allows easy access to those hard to reach fittings. (Yes I wish I had changed them out, but for others like me who did not, there is a not so difficult solution).

I wondered after I posted it if there might be some type of adapter that would reach. Thanks for pointing it out. My own inexperience shows. Still recommend changing this one though. Every other zerk on the chassis can be reached with a straight-on coupler. I'm a fan of the LockNLube Grease Gun Coupler that locks onto the fittings.

[edwardb]

Pretty light update this week. I installed the steering column along with the various U-joints. Not much to say. The instructions are detailed and clear. Part of what I installed can stay. A little will have to come out. When I receive the anodized aluminum panels (on the way!!) I’ll need to remove the flange bearing on the front of the footbox to install the panel and then put it back. I’m also waiting to see if the long shaft between the steering rack and footbox will get in the way when installing the engine. Previous Mk’s it was, but this one looks a little more tucked in. We’ll see. One piece of advice, check the button screws on the U-joints that retain the cross shafts. About half of mine were barely finger tight. I suspect the cross shafts are pressed in and won’t fall out without the screw. But don’t wish to take the chance. I removed all of them and put back in with blue Loctite and made sure they were properly tightened.

Now for the fun part of this update. The self-cancelling turn signal switch. I’m happy to see Factory Five is now making this part of the kit. Also happy to see it uses the Hot Rod connector on the RF harness which simplifies things. Including no longer needing the trailer converter. The very common Delco Remy switch has been successfully used on millions of GM vehicles. I did find installing it was a little challenging. Cut to the chase – I’ve got it working OK even though I almost gave up a couple of times. I posted in another build thread what I did for the installation so will mostly just copy that here. It's a bit "fiddly" but would be easier the next time because I have an idea what works and what doesn't. These are the takeaways for me. Maybe this will help others. Some (most?) probably obvious but FWIW.


The overall goal here is to get the turn signal switch exactly centered around the steering shaft. Keep that in mind the whole time.
If you haven’t already, clean up the steering shaft and 1” DD tube so that the steering shaft goes in without excessive force. Sometime it’s a matter of removing burrs or whatever. Sometimes necessary to lightly sand the steering shaft with Emory cloth until they go together but can still be easily moved/adjusted/etc. If you force it in (some do…) you’ll regret it later.
File the mating surfaces of the turn signal switch mounting bracket so it's flat against the chassis bracket and the turn signal switch. Mine had some bumps from where it was bent and every little bit affects how it aligns.
Install the middle 1” pillow block to the chassis along with the 1" DD tube that goes through it and the pillow block by the turn signal switch. That angle is part of centering the steering shaft through the switch.
A stack of washers is needed between the chassis bracket holding the turn signal switch and the pillow block underneath. How many, how thick, etc. will be determined by assembling and taking it apart multiple times (I lost track) to achieve the proper alignment. Tighten the bolts all the way to see what the actual alignment is. The supplied bolts were too short in my case.
I got the alignment close with the washer stack. But at least in my case wasn't 100% exact. I was able to fine tune it by loosening the three #10 screws holding the turn signal switch to the bracket and shifting it just enough. There's a bit of wiggle room there.
The angle on my mounting bracket was just slightly off. With the cams centered on the top spring they weren't exactly centered on the bottom one. In the bench vise and a couple blows with a small sledge and it was perfect.
Slide the cam piece on to check even alignment all around each time. My cam piece has quite a bit of weld on it (pictured) which I sanded off. But it turns out as long as the cams are clear, it will work OK.
Follow the instructions regarding setting the depth of the cam exactly. Properly set, the cams just brush both springs as the steering shaft is turning while the switch is off (centered) and should self-cancel each direction as you rotate the steering shaft. Note the GM switch has the "lane change" function as well. So you don't have to pull the stalk into self-cancel mode for lane changing. Nice.
I didn't have trouble getting the screw in that holds the stalk. Agree it's tight but nothing spun or whatever.
Last point, it would be possible to raise the height of the steering wheel with a different combination of washers/spacers potentially on both sides. I did what's shown in the manual. But variations are possible.

Pictures show what mine looks like now. Note the cam isn't in the right location in the first picture. That was taken right after I had everything together but no adjusted. Open questions: The hazard button on the side will end up behind the dash which is less than ideal. Not even sure it’s reachable or would pass some inspections. I’ve played with the wiring and with some more work expect to be able to break into the harness and install a dash switch. The turn signal stalk would need to be removed to install the dash. Which makes the retaining screw a little hard to reach. We’ll see on that one. I’m looking at a couple enhancements as well. I’m planning cruise control and will add the control to the end of the stalk. Also thinking about 3D printing a filler between the steering wheel hub and the dash. Since the polished aluminum piece that used to be part of this assembly is no longer being used. Busy week ahead and my wife has surgery next week (a new knee, long overdue...) so things may slow down a bit. But with the rest of my panels on the way, a bunch of drilling and Clecos are in my future.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217216&d=1754342620

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217219&d=1754342620

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https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217218&d=1754342620

[rponfick]

edwardb, thanks for the excellent switch essay. FFR is sending me another switch assembly for the one I stripped the screw in. Hopefully the second time is a charm. And I hope the third time when you have to re-install after the dash is on goes well.
On the cam weld, you just need to grind flat with the outside diameter, and not on the cam lump surface?
Thanks, Ralph

[edwardb]

On the cam weld, you just need to grind flat with the outside diameter, and not on the cam lump surface?
Thanks, Ralph

You're welcome. The cam I pictured with the lumps sanded off as shown works fine. To be honest, I suspect it would have worked as received (the first picture). The cams do all the work. So as long as they're clear, it's OK.

Paul B. (EdwardB)

[Tango]

I have one of the early MKV’s and when I was assembling mine (hood hinge), it did not match the manual…not exactly. Yours appears to match better to what is pictured in the manual. My top and bottom plate slots were/are parallel, not perpendicular (as in the diagram), and the holes in the upper plate were not big enough for the shoulder bolt so I installed them in reverse. I am wondering if the lack of side to side mobility will be an issue down the road. Any thoughts on that from those with more experience?217288217289

[edwardb]

I have one of the early MKV’s and when I was assembling mine (hood hinge), it did not match the manual…not exactly. Yours appears to match better to what is pictured in the manual. My top and bottom plate slots were/are parallel, not perpendicular (as in the diagram), and the holes in the upper plate were not big enough for the shoulder bolt so I installed them in reverse. I am wondering if the lack of side to side mobility will be an issue down the road. Any thoughts on that from those with more experience?

That seems less than ideal because it's not going to have side-to-side adjustment as you said. I can't predict whether that will be an issue when it's time to install and align your hood. I've never paid too much attention to where the hood hinges ended up during alignment. Just adjusted as necessary. Sorry I can't give a better answer but no way for me to know. Couple tips though. Not particularly unusual for the carriage bolts to not fit in the slots. FF cuts these perfect slots in the parts but if you look at the squares on the carriage bolts they're often not so precise. I often have to put them in a vise and file to fit. Usually doesn't take much. Just square them up. The other tip is I'd recommend putting those bolts in from the top with the nuts on the bottom. Mine isn't that way because I was just mocking up and didn't pay much attention. The trick way to align your hood hinges is to set the hood on the body with the hinges loose. Then reach in from underneath and tighten the adjustment bolts. Hard to do with the nuts on the top.

[Erik W. Treves]

Paul - the hazard switch is reachable after the dash goes in- having said that - mine failed right after the body went on - granted I probably had a 100 cycles on it... in any event I ordered another one from factory five - and it looked like it might fail in the same way - if I can find the picture of the place of concern (to me) - I will grab one tonight.... I ended up bypassing that switch all together and with 2 diodes I place a nice push button switch on the dash.... Changing the turn signal assembly after the dash is in doesn't look like fun!

[Tango]

Thank you for your insight on the hood hinge. I sent an email with pictures to FFR today and they promptly responded that it was their mistake, the pieces must have been cut wrong and they are sending out replacements. Just following up here in the event that it helps other MK5 builds in the same situation.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I have one of the early MKV’s and when I was assembling mine (hood hinge), it did not match the manual…not exactly. Yours appears to match better to what is pictured in the manual. My top and bottom plate slots were/are parallel, not perpendicular (as in the diagram), and the holes in the upper plate were not big enough for the shoulder bolt so I installed them in reverse. I am wondering if the lack of side to side mobility will be an issue down the road. Any thoughts on that from those with more experience?217288217289

All 3 of us Beta builders received incorrect hinge parts which didn’t match the manual diagrams/photos (the manual was still a work in progress at the time). I reported it and while mounting the body and hood found a way to actually make them work but in the end FFR supplied the new parts…although I think Erik’s car may still have the “wrong but functional” parts on his!

Jeff

[dr-sicel]

I assembled the Koni dual adjustable shocks that came with the Anniversary package. This is the third build I’ve done with them. Nice parts. The overrider assembly is completely straightforward. Exactly per the manual. As far as adjustments are concerned, based on what I’ve done before, first placed both compression and rebound at the minimum softest value on all four. Then added two clicks (of 12 available) to rebound. Recommended on the forum as likely providing a better more controlled ride than the minimum setting. I have my Coupe set this way and I’m happy with it. Not that how I drive it or my expertise as a driver would suggest otherwise.

Finally, broke into the Wilwood boxes. This is the third time I’ve used this exact setup. A couple of minor part number changes but everything is physically the same. I put the hats and rotors together per the instructions with red Loctite and the prescribed inch-pound torque. Interestingly, I noticed that Wilwood now includes a large caution paper in the box to make sure you’re setting them with inch-pound and not ft-lb. Recall a couple forum members made this mistake. I guess we’re not alone. I installed safety wires as well. Probably not required, but it’s kind of a rite of passage for using these brakes, right? Since I only do this every couple of years, takes a few to get the hang of it again. Only had to cut off a few fails. Not perfect but serviceable.

Great write up.

Two questions:
1. Where did you get the safety wires (they were not included in my anniversary kit)?
2. How did you tighten the springs? Is this a standard shock wrench or one specific to Koni?

[edwardb]

Great write up.

Two questions:
1. Where did you get the safety wires (they were not included in my anniversary kit)?
2. How did you tighten the springs? Is this a standard shock wrench or one specific to Koni?

1. Standard .032 SS safety wire, sometimes called lock wire. Used extensively in aviation plus elsewhere like this. Not included in the kit or from Wilwood. Typically comes in a one pound spool that will last most of us a lifetime. Not expensive. You will also need twisting pliers, like these https://www.harborfreight.com/9-in-safety-wire-twisting-pliers-57315.html. Lots of videos in YouTube showing how to install. Takes practice is about all I can say.

2. Yes, there are spanner wrenches to adjust the coilovers. I have a Joes Racing 33500 Short Coil-over Spanner Wrench (Amazon) that fits perfectly. But really not needed. For now, during the initial assembly, snug the adjuster rings up against the springs just enough to hold them in place. Later, when setting ride height, they will get adjusted as needed. But on our builds, they will need to be loosened and the easiest way is to jack the car up and turn by hand. It's not necessary to adjust them while under load. So a wrench isn't technically required.

[edwardb]

Somewhat slow week with things going on plus it’s been hot in the garage shop. Like many locations right now. But a few things to report. Most importantly, my anodized panels arrived from Factory Five. Part of the 30th Anniversary package as most know. They did the “visible” ones from the engine compartment and wheel wells. A generous group and I’m not complaining. But I’ll probably have most of the remaining bare panels powder coated in something that closely resembles the matte black anodized panels. For my builds, I’ve always considered any panel that isn’t completely buried on both sides to be visible. Not for everyone and another personal choice item. I'm down to two POL items. Wheels and side louvers.

The anodized panels were all individually wrapped and arrived in good condition. I like the appearance and it contrasts nicely with the bronze color powder coat on the chassis. While anodizing is technically much harder than powder coat, it is thin and will scratch if you’re not careful. So appropriate care is required. For rivet hole marking and drilling, I lay down a strip of blue tape and mark on that.

First up in the manual is the driver’s side footbox front. Right away I’m stumped by how that’s going to fit into the chassis. Passenger side footbox is the same. Clearly bending is required but the right sequence is important too. All while not damaging either the powder coat on the chassis or the anodized panels. It was late, I was tired, so I gave up and posted a thread on the forum. I received several responses and got both sides in the following day. Not going to repeat the saga. Here’s the link: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51955-Mk5-Footbox-Front-Aluminum-Installation-Help!

With that, drilled and Cleco’d both front panels. Both top and bottom of the front panels have angled frame tubes that limit how close you can drill and pull the rivets. Take that into consideration as you plan where you’re placing rivets. Then moved on to the inside panels on both sides. Not a ton of progress to report but I have several panels ready to drill and Cleco. I’ve also checked the fit of the footbox outer panels. In general, the fit of the panels is good. Although fair warning, the factory shipping hole locations on the passenger side outer footbox panel don't put the panel where it needs to be. This has been talked about in multiple threads -- use the factory shipping hole locations only as a starting point. Adjust for the best fit and don't be surprised if they don't line up. I’ve also had to trim just a little in a couple places for weld beads. Nothing new and no big deal. I drilled and Cleco’d the firewall and small extension pieces on each end. Maybe I missed it in the fine print somewhere, but I can’t find instructions in the build manual for the firewall installation. Obvious where it goes but an oversight I think. There's also no real mention of the footbox tops. At a minimum, the driver's side needs to be removable. I'm planning to drill and tap 10-32 threads in the frame and use button head screws to hold the panel. May do the same on the passenger side. Depends on my final configuration and whether there's something under there I need access to. I'm not planning A/C. But thinking about a heater if I can find something that fits into that space. Enough words. What things look like right now:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217449&d=1754859458

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217453&d=1754859479

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Two other small points. There was a forum thread this week about shifter placement in the Mk5 and whether it would be necessary to cut cross pieces in the transmission tunnel as some of done in the past with other models. I posted this picture and it seems Factory Five has felt our pain and configured the cross members to have room for a wide variation of shifter locations without cutting anything. Another nice improvement.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217451&d=1754859458

Finally, this is the obligatory picture of finishing the plain leather door straps. It’s a nice touch for the interior to have these finished versus the unfinished natural leather. Some use vinegar and iron, creating a solution called vinegarroon, and after several days of soaking will react with the leather to produce a black color. Google it if you aren’t familiar. For my builds, I’ve skipped the chemistry experiment and use standard leather dye materials. I’ve had these same bottles since the start of my builds. On Amazon and not expensive:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217448&d=1754859458

That’s it. Next week is the Woodward Dream Cruise here in SE Michigan. Basically a weeklong cruise-in with next Saturday, Aug 16, the official event. Attracts over 1 million people and estimated over 40,000 classic and custom cars. Turns into kind of a major traffic jam but still interesting for most of us. The Great Lakes Cobra Club has an event in the Comerica Bank parking lot in Birmingham. 50+ cars, catered lunch, and a good time. Visitors are welcome to look at the cars, have dialogue, etc. But it is a members only event. You need to park elsewhere and walk. The lot is closed except for participants just like nearly every location along Woodward.

Tomorrow morning my wife is getting a long overdue knee replacement. Taking care of her will be the obvious priority over the Dream Cruise and my time in the shop. Fully expect rehab to be tough but quality of life for her improved on the other side. Arthritis is not nice. Remember Sharon in your thoughts and prayers.

[Jeff Kleiner]

...There's also no real mention of the footbox tops. At a minimum, the driver's side needs to be removable. I'm planning to drill and tap 10-32 threads in the frame and use button head screws to hold the panel. May do the same on the passenger side. Depends on my final configuration on whether there's something under there I need access to...

Paul, I suggest you make the footbox tops removable which will make access much easier when it comes time to install the windshield. There isn't much room for getting tools to the fasteners...I did our usual tapping of the windshield posts and changed to socket head bolts rather than hex simply because it was easier to get an allen socket in there vs a hex.

Best of luck to Sharon for a quick and full recovery.

Jeff

[Higgybulin]

Sharon must be a tough cookie, putting up with you and your builds! Wishing a speedy recovery to her. If I make it over this weekend, I will try to track you down!
Higgy

[rponfick]

Jeff and Paul, do you think the drivers side footbox top panel can be made removable in one piece, or would you have to cut a center portion of it out to get to attachment method? Without the body on it is hard for me to estimate clearance, but it may be possible to use one piece. You Beta builders must have faced this question.
Suggestions welcome.

Thanks, Ralph

[EveryNut]

Paul-

I appreciate following your builds. I too am building a 30th anniversary roadster. On the theme of panels...

I am not sure if you and others are aware of sendcutsend.com. I have used them and have been really impressed. Essentially, you upload a design file for a part (CNC machined from solid, sheet metal, ...) and they fabricate it and ship it direct. I designed a few new panels in AutoCAD Fusion 360. I had them cut, bend, drill and also finish in black anodize. They delivered within a week and look perfect. I will upload a few pics and happy to provide the .step files for anyone interested. You would basically just go to their website, upload the file, and select your material and desired finishes. One of the parts shown is the panel in the front of the transmission tunnel and the other is a panel that would mask to the front of the driver foot-box. I am going to be fabricating many more parts and happy to share designs. Happy to also design any parts the team here would like fab'd as well.

217480217481

[edwardb]

Jeff and Paul, do you think the drivers side footbox top panel can be made removable in one piece, or would you have to cut a center portion of it out to get to attachment method? Without the body on it is hard for me to estimate clearance, but it may be possible to use one piece. You Beta builders must have faced this question.
Suggestions welcome.

Thanks, Ralph

Good question and I don't know. I will trial fit the body before I make a decision about how to attach the footbox tops and if they need to be split. I hope not. Since mine are pre-finished, might be difficult to do cleanly. I will definitely take Jeff's advice and have both sides removeable.


Paul-

I appreciate following your builds. I too am building a 30th anniversary roadster. On the theme of panels...

I am not sure if you and others are aware of sendcutsend.com. I have used them and have been really impressed. Essentially, you upload a design file for a part (CNC machined from solid, sheet metal, ...) and they fabricate it and ship it direct. I designed a few new panels in AutoCAD Fusion 360. I had them cut, bend, drill and also finish in black anodize. They delivered within a week and look perfect. I will upload a few pics and happy to provide the .step files for anyone interested. You would basically just go to their website, upload the file, and select your material and desired finishes. One of the parts shown is the panel in the front of the transmission tunnel and the other is a panel that would mask to the front of the driver foot-box. I am going to be fabricating many more parts and happy to share designs. Happy to also design any parts the team here would like fab'd as well.

217480217481

Thanks for your post. First one? Very interesting. I've thought about the center panel since I did the same thing on my Gen3 Coupe build. I don't have a problem fabbing myself, although duplicating the anodize finish like the FF panels I wasn't sure about. I know about sendcutsent.com but haven't used them before. Definitely an option. Not clear to me where the second piece you mention goes or is for.

[EveryNut]

217519

The other panel goes here.

[edwardb]

217519

The other panel goes here.

OK, that's interesting. I can see where that might be desirable from an appearance standpoint. The Gen 3 Coupe has the exact layout and since I've built and now driven it extensively I'm not sure how practical it is though. In that area I mounted the RF fuse panel, the ODB2 port (if doing a Coyote or another engine that requires one) and the inertia switch. I plan to do a similar layout on the Mk5 build. They could go elsewhere although space will limit options. Or maybe remove the cover each time to access. But with the overhang on the dash and once the car is on the ground, the opening isn't as obvious as maybe it seems.

[dr-sicel]

Pretty light update this week. I installed the steering column along with the various U-joints. Not much to say. The instructions are detailed and clear. Part of what I installed can stay. A little will have to come out. When I receive the anodized aluminum panels (on the way!!) I’ll need to remove the flange bearing on the front of the footbox to install the panel and then put it back. I’m also waiting to see if the long shaft between the steering rack and footbox will get in the way when installing the engine. Previous Mk’s it was, but this one looks a little more tucked in. We’ll see. One piece of advice, check the button screws on the U-joints that retain the cross shafts. About half of mine were barely finger tight. I suspect the cross shafts are pressed in and won’t fall out without the screw. But don’t wish to take the chance. I removed all of them and put back in with blue Loctite and made sure they were properly tightened.

Regarding the steering column, in addition to shortening the shorter shaft (originally 14 5/8”) down to 12.5”, did you need to cut the long shaft? I can make mine fit, but then it extends into the U-joint - I can’t tell yet if that would cause interference with the U-joint function, but it has potential. Looks like if I cut about 1/2” it would be “right”. is this typically required?

[edwardb]

Regarding the steering column, in addition to shortening the shorter shaft (originally 14 5/8”) down to 12.5”, did you need to cut the long shaft? I can make mine fit, but then it extends into the U-joint - I can’t tell yet if that would cause interference with the U-joint function, but it has potential. Looks like if I cut about 1/2” it would be “right”. is this typically required?

I had to trim mine slightly as well. I suspect there's some variation in the length of the input shaft on various steering racks and also the location of the groove the set screw fits into. Best to have all the shafts flush on the inside of the joints to eliminate any potential interference. So trim accordingly. Plus added length beyond flush serves no purpose.

[cdurbin328]

Paul-

I appreciate following your builds. I too am building a 30th anniversary roadster. On the theme of panels...

I am not sure if you and others are aware of sendcutsend.com. I have used them and have been really impressed. Essentially, you upload a design file for a part (CNC machined from solid, sheet metal, ...) and they fabricate it and ship it direct. I designed a few new panels in AutoCAD Fusion 360. I had them cut, bend, drill and also finish in black anodize. They delivered within a week and look perfect. I will upload a few pics and happy to provide the .step files for anyone interested. You would basically just go to their website, upload the file, and select your material and desired finishes. One of the parts shown is the panel in the front of the transmission tunnel and the other is a panel that would mask to the front of the driver foot-box. I am going to be fabricating many more parts and happy to share designs. Happy to also design any parts the team here would like fab'd as well.

217480217481


I've used them several times. Nice work and it's fast as well as pretty affordable

[edwardb]

Short update. Very little time available while helping my wife through her knee replacement surgery and rehab and it's going to be like that for a while yet. There were some challenges but she’s making progress. I’ve been able to sneak out to the garage shop an hour or two here and there and have most of the footbox panels drilled, Cleco’d, and now ready for sealant and rivets. These are some of the anodized panels part of the 30th anniversary package. As such, are not drilled and riveted so that has to done with them already finished. Extra care is needed while handling, marking the rivet locations, drilling, etc. This reinforces the advice this forum routinely gives to new builders, e.g. easiest to do this before finishing the panels if that’s part of your build plan. I used blue masking tape to mark the locations, clamped in place, and then drilled the holes one at a time replacing with a Cleco as I went. Fit was good for these panels although a couple places required a bit of additional clearance for welds. I think I mentioned that previously and has been the case for all my builds. Easy to do with a Dremel style tool and a cutoff wheel.

View as it looks right now. Yes, a Cleco in every hole. Kind of what I’ve done in the past but now a no-brainer since I have literally hundreds of Clecos from my airplane build.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217905&d=1755915596

Speaking of my airplane build, one of the takeaways from that build was the emphasis on deburring all rivet holes. Not as critical maybe on our builds but no reason not to so that rivets and panels set flush. In the past, I’ve typically used a large sharp drill bit and spun in the hole to clear any burrs. Which works well. I found that the tool pictured below is common in airplane building and I like it better. Couple spins in the hole and burrs cleared. Now in use for this build. Sharing FWIW. NOGA-NG3400 available on Amazon and elsewhere. Every build requires tools to be added to our collection, right?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217906&d=1755916107

[gbranham]

Looking good, Paul! I wish your wife a speedy recovery!

Greg

[JZ_TX]

Paul-

I appreciate following your builds. I too am building a 30th anniversary roadster. On the theme of panels...

I am not sure if you and others are aware of sendcutsend.com. I have used them and have been really impressed. Essentially, you upload a design file for a part (CNC machined from solid, sheet metal, ...) and they fabricate it and ship it direct. I designed a few new panels in AutoCAD Fusion 360. I had them cut, bend, drill and also finish in black anodize. They delivered within a week and look perfect. I will upload a few pics and happy to provide the .step files for anyone interested. You would basically just go to their website, upload the file, and select your material and desired finishes. One of the parts shown is the panel in the front of the transmission tunnel and the other is a panel that would mask to the front of the driver foot-box. I am going to be fabricating many more parts and happy to share designs. Happy to also design any parts the team here would like fab'd as well.

217480217481

These are great! Would you mind sharing the files so that I can order a few?

[JZ_TX]

Quick question on your flange bearing mounted on the front of your driver footbox. I have read many posts and I can’t seem to find a consensus. Some people say that you need to mount the entire bearing on one side of the footbox, either inside or outside, so that the bearing can be properly “captured.” I mounted mine as the manual shows, and as you have yours, with one half on the inside, and the other on the outside, essentially sandwiching the front footbox panel between the two halves. Thee appears to be significant play in the bearing, which doesn’t seem right, but maybe that’s normal?

218013218014218013218014

[edwardb]

Quick question on your flange bearing mounted on the front of your driver footbox. I have read many posts and I can’t seem to find a consensus. Some people say that you need to mount the entire bearing on one side of the footbox, either inside or outside, so that the bearing can be properly “captured.” I mounted mine as the manual shows, and as you have yours, with one half on the inside, and the other on the outside, essentially sandwiching the front footbox panel between the two halves. Thee appears to be significant play in the bearing, which doesn’t seem right, but maybe that’s normal?

Mine is mounted with both halves on the outside. The manual says "Both halves of the bearing mount go on the front of the footbox." That's the only way the inner bearing is properly captured. There's discussion on the forum about mounting the entire bearing on either the inside or outside for the best fit. But that was previous MK's where the U-joint was part of the steering shaft. The MK5 is more adjustable.

[dr-sicel]

Quick question on your flange bearing mounted on the front of your driver footbox. I have read many posts and I can’t seem to find a consensus. Some people say that you need to mount the entire bearing on one side of the footbox, either inside or outside, so that the bearing can be properly “captured.” I mounted mine as the manual shows, and as you have yours, with one half on the inside, and the other on the outside, essentially sandwiching the front footbox panel between the two halves. Thee appears to be significant play in the bearing, which doesn’t seem right, but maybe that’s normal?


Intuitively, I wanted to sandwich them… though If I read the manual correctly - they both go on the outside. I’m right at that point, so if that’s not correct, please chime in!
218019

[edwardb]

To confirm again, both on the outside. Close-up pic from mine just now:

218020

[RJD]

Get your wife one of these. She'll love it. It's so much better than an ice pack.

218022

[edwardb]

Managed to get in a few more hours and a little progress. On previous Roadsters, the famous “F panels” are literally the first aluminum panels to fit and rivet. For the Mk5, they don't make an appearance in the build manual until page 538 as part of installing the front splash guards. Plus no longer resemble the letter "F". I guess we'll get used to that. I wanted them on earlier so I can fine tune locations of wiring, brake lines, etc. and didn’t see any downside to installing them now. So with that my first actual bonded and riveted aluminum panels. They are two pieces on each side vs. previously only one because of how the frame is configured.

Two small gotchas. The upper panel on the RH side had one of the bends the wrong direction. It’s just a few degrees on one edge to confirm with the angle of the chassis tube. I put some tape on each side and was able to bend the other direction using my box brake. None the worse for wear. The other thing is the flex lines for the front brakes need to come through the upper panels. At least for the Wilwood brakes on this build. The pictures in the build manual show relief cuts but no mention of them. I took the opportunity to mount the tabs for the flex line connections in both front and rear and install the lines. Due to the similarities, I used the same locations as on my Gen 3 Coupe.

Front “F panels” and flex lines:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218184&d=1756417833

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218185&d=1756417833

Rear flex lines:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218186&d=1756417881

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218187&d=1756417881

[edwardb]

Today I finished both footboxes. I’m leaving both outside panels loose for now. Easier to work inside (obviously) including insulation, carpet, etc. Also leaving the tops loose for now but will finalize after checking with the body on. I’m going to make them removeable but don’t know about access to mounting screws. I’ve started placing the rest of the aluminum panels and deciding where to place rivets, etc. The manual has a specific sequence, which is fine, but you still need to know what’s around each panel in order to locate properly plus get all the rivets in the right locations. I’ll get all those drilled and Cleco’d. Then off for powder coat. Going to do the balance as I mentioned previously. While at powder coat, I'm going to work on brake and fuel lines. Making progress!

Pictures are below, but a couple comments about the footbox space. I’ve included a couple pictures that show the space available with the Mk5. Nice improvement from my Mk4. Note the space available extends beyond the frame rails on the outside. Doesn’t matter so much on the passenger side, but on the driver’s side the diagonal makes a nice place to rest your foot. Similar to a dead pedal. For interest, I included a picture of the footbox in my Gen 3 Coupe. Dimensionally, they are nearly the same. No surprise since the frames are similar. The lighting on the picture makes where I rest my foot look more pronounced that it does in natural light. But you get the idea. That’s after five seasons and almost 10K miles. So, I guess some wear is to be expected.

One other comment about the Mk5. In the past, various builders have indicated concern about the .040” aluminum footbox bottoms. Some have even added additional material. I never found it to be a problem. But the Mk5 now has welded steel sheets in the footbox bottoms. That should be good enough. Another nice upgrade.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218429&d=1757014813

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218428&d=1757014791

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218430&d=1757014845

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218432&d=1757014845

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218431&d=1757014845

Our Gen3 Coupe footbox for comparison.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218433&d=1757014869

[UKSNAKE]

Looks amazing. My sleeves are showing at the very front of the front connections (like they came through a bit) but about 3/16. Still shows the right torque, but not sure how to get them in. Question for everyone, does it matter and if so how do you get them back in?

Thank you.

[edwardb]

Looks amazing. My sleeves are showing at the very front of the front connections (like they came through a bit) but about 3/16. Still shows the right torque, but not sure how to get them in. Question for everyone, does it matter and if so how do you get them back in?

Thank you.

Thank you. The build is going well and I'm real happy with how it's turning out. Enjoying the Mk5 a lot. Can you be a little more specific about what you're asking? Sounds like maybe the IRS chassis mounts (many ask about that) but only a guess.

[Ramjet]

My build did the exact same thing and in fact if you watch the Factory Five mk5 anniversary build video: https://youtu.be/u3WrSf_RcL0?feature=shared at around 1:00 in you can see theirs is the same. I stacked a couple of 7/8” ID grade 8 washers to take up the gap.218554

[UKSNAKE]

Yes sorry the chassis mounts for the diff at the front. Was worried that it may affect integrity. They are in pretty bloomin tight though for sure.

[UKSNAKE]

Thats brilliant, thanks for sharing. Im not sure I want to disassemble the whole thing unless its likely to be dangerous. To get the washers on I need to get the nut off and its very snug to the chassis

[edwardb]

Yes sorry the chassis mounts for the diff at the front. Was worried that it may affect integrity. They are in pretty bloomin tight though for sure.


Thats brilliant, thanks for sharing. Im not sure I want to disassemble the whole thing unless its likely to be dangerous. To get the washers on I need to get the nut off and its very snug to the chassis

This has been discussed in multiple threads. Factory Five has stated it's not an issue. That diff isn't going anywhere. Washers during assembly is OK I guess but I wouldn't recommend taking it apart at this point. I didn't do anything special with mine. I've done three IRS builds and all have been the same way. Thousands of miles with zero issues.

[Aleinsteingenius]

Thanks for the great build thread. I am following along as I build my Mk V. I hope you wife is recovering well. It takes a while but you can fully recover. I have had two ankle rebuilds, two knee replacements, one hip replacement all at the Hospital for Special Surgery in NYC. I figure the 6th on should be free...like breakfast sandwhiches. They should give you a punch card.

[edwardb]

Thanks for the great build thread. I am following along as I build my Mk V. I hope you wife is recovering well. It takes a while but you can fully recover. I have had two ankle rebuilds, two knee replacements, one hip replacement all at the Hospital for Special Surgery in NYC. I figure the 6th on should be free...like breakfast sandwiches. They should give you a punch card.

You're welcome and good luck with your build. Time has been limited for the last month or so for obvious reasons. Sharon is making good progress. Every day and week is better. I read your list of "repairs" to her and she said "no thanks." She had a hip some years ago and now this knee. Short of major issues, I doubt she's going to be trying much else.

[Aleinsteingenius]

They should put warning labels on footballs saying "This is what is going to happen to you when you get old" lol

[Jeff Kleiner]

... I have had two knee replacements...

Ugh, a couple of weeks ago my Ortho Doc told me that's what I'm up for :( Did you do one and one or both together? I'm weighing out the recovery time options.

Hope Sharon is doing well Paul.

Jeff

[Aleinsteingenius]

I wanted to get them both together but the doctor refused. He said "Who the hell is going to carry YOU around!" So I had them done one in Nov and one in Jan. The PT afterwards is the key to getting full mobilty back.

[Aleinsteingenius]

Sorry to hijack the thread Paul. Maybe should change the title to "More Kneeboxes"

[michael everson]

Paul, on the Mark 5 I just finished, I moved the bearing mid-way under the dash up as far as I could. Drilled new holes about 1/2 inch up. Then mounted the turn signal bracket under the bearing mount and made spacers to move it down about 3/8 of an inch. This drastically changed the angle of the steering wheel. In fact, it's now the same as the Mark 4 Something to consider.
Mike

[Jeff Kleiner]

I did exactly the same as Mike because I don’t like the high wheel with the “school bus” angle. By doing so the center of the steering shaft is now 5.5” down from the cowl and the angle is 17 degrees from vertical rather than 25. It matches the Mk4. Takes a little extra fussing with the turn switch because the angle of the shaft through the bearing changes but it results in much better ergonomics, at least for me.

With that done and the seat height and angle established I’ve given some thought to moving the pedal box down 1/2” or so since doing so will not conflict with the steering shaft. This would get the pedals the same height above the floor as the Mk4/Mk3. They feel a little compared to what I’m used to…if someone had not ever driven an earlier roadster they probably wouldn’t feel a desire to make these changes.

Jeff

[rickster991]

Paul, on the Mark 5 I just finished, I moved the bearing mid-way under the dash up as far as I could. Drilled new holes about 1/2 inch up. Then mounted the turn signal bracket under the bearing mount and made spacers to move it down about 3/8 of an inch. This drastically changed the angle of the steering wheel. In fact, it's now the same as the Mark 4 Something to consider.
Mike

Do you have any pictures?

[edwardb]

Thanks Mike and Jeff. Appreciate that you're following my build thread and making recommendations. So here's the thing on the steering wheel. I reviewed your suggestions and made some measurements on my build. Several comments/observations. Beyond the fact that I have all that buttoned up and not necessarily anxious to re-do. Although I agree wouldn't be terribly difficult. The biggest concern I have, and perhaps could be resolved but would involve more work, is that lowering the steering wheel location will drop that middle shaft and interfere with the connector for the Coyote DBW. Took some effort on the Coupe to move and orient things to allow the connector to go in. I was happy to see the Mk5 had a built-in mount for the Coyote DBW and allowed just enough clearance for the connector. Maybe the builds you're doing don't have that possible interference? I measured the height and angle of the steering wheel in my Coupe, which I've driven for five seasons now and am very used to. While the Mk5 as I have it now is a bit different, I'm concluding for now it's not enough to change. But I do appreciate the suggestions.

On a related note, it's kind of ironic that for years the forum has been full of suggestions to modify these builds to allow more room for plus sized people. Now the tables seemed to have turned to where Factory Five made changes to address (with good success!) and now us "average" size folks are looking at mods to fit us better. I haven't finalized anything yet, but I've mocked up the seats in mine and I'll have to block them up 3-4 inches to be at an acceptable height.

[Jeff Kleiner]

...The biggest concern I have, and perhaps could be resolved but would involve more work, is that lowering the steering wheel location will drop that middle shaft and interfere with the connector for the Coyote DBW...

Ahhh, I see. I'm not doing a Coyote so...

Jeff

[Pizzman76]

On a related note, it's kind of ironic that for years the forum has been full of suggestions to modify these builds to allow more room for plus sized people. Now the tables seemed to have turned to where Factory Five made changes to address (with good success!) and now us "average" size folks are looking at mods to fit us better. I haven't finalized anything yet, but I've mocked up the seats in mine and I'll have to block them up 3-4 inches to be at an acceptable height.


I haven't had the opportunity to sit in a Mk1-4, but as soon as I was ready to start laying out the dash in my MK5, I noticed the seated position for me needed to raise up a few inches at the minimum to insure my vision past the cowl section felt natural for my 5'9" body. I'm strongly considering a 2-3" rise with a 5-7deg angle on a seat base to help obtain a more ergonomic seat posture.

[edwardb]

Today I finished fitting, drilling, and Clecoing the cockpit aluminum panels. With the footboxes already done, all that’s left is a few pieces in the trunk. I forgot how many holes there are to locate and drill. Time continues to be somewhat limited due to my wife’s ongoing recovery. Her new knee is doing well and I’m (mostly) willingly taking care of all the household chores. Probably for at least a few more weeks.

For all the cockpit panels, I followed the sequence described in the build manual and I’d recommend others do the same. The only exception I’d suggest is the upper trunk floor. It fits best under the lower rear wall. From my previous builds, I’ve always found it necessary to sometimes tweak bends a little and occasionally clearance for weld beads to get the best fits. Either by trimming the aluminum or grinding the beads. Whatever makes the most sense for each instance. I would say there was more of both on this Mk5 kit. Not excessive but don’t be surprised. Take the time to get the pieces to fit exactly. It’s worth it. As more Mk5’s are produced, I expect some of this will be refined. BTW, mentioned before, but this HF tool is ideal for adjusting many of the bends: https://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-jaw-straight-sheet-metal-seamer-98728.html.

I started with a used #30 drill bit (for the 1/8” rivets) and finally switched to a new one about halfway through the cockpit panels. I expect I’ll be able to finish everything else with it. A lot of guys talk about going through multiple bits. Really shouldn’t be necessary if you start with quality bits and avoid welds. Nearly every one I’ve broken in the past was because I wasn’t being careful enough and drilled into a weld. I have a Drill Doctor but haven't had great success with sharpening bits. They just don't cut like factory new ones. Probably something I'm doing wrong...

I used the spacing tool from FF and their recommendations almost entirely: 2” for panel-to-panel, and 3” for panel to frame. I haven’t found other methods (fan spacing tools, stretchable elastic, etc.) to be necessary. Can easily result in more rivets than needed. My opinion I realize. I see other builders, especially first timers, talk about wanting to make sure panels don’t rattle so add rivets or reduce the spacing. The recommended number of rivets combined with sealant makes a very robust connection. I’ve never had a panel rattle. I do like them straight and centered though. Most are buried, but I don't care. Doesn't take any longer to do a nice job. Also, as many have suggested, pay attention to where you locate them. Make sure you have access for the drill and whatever you're using to pull the rivets.

Now for a complaint. Notice the transmission tunnel cover is not in any of the pictures. That’s because I’m not using the kit supplied cover and will make my own. Reasons? (1) I will cut the opening for the shifter to match my setup rather than trying to cleanly install the supplied fill panel. I’ve been suggesting this for some time now. If we can drill out for instruments and I think we can drill out for a shifter. (2) I will make it without the tab on the front and add a tab to the front cover. Otherwise the front cover, which is typically hard mounted, traps the transmission cover. Exactly what I did on my Coupe build BTW. There are lots of opinions about whether a removable transmission tunnel cover is necessary. But doing something other than hard mounting and covering with carpet is very common. I’ll probably wrap mine with leather so by definition it will be removeable. In the past, one of the forum vendors made a replacement cover that matched what I’m describing. Maybe still available. With all the other good changes to the Mk5, this would be another IMO. Note I edited this paragraph. I did have third point about making the new cover oversize so that a wrap (e.g. leather) would fit around it. That's been an issue for me in the past. After more mocking up today, looks like the stock cover is now slightly oversized. So never mind on that one.

One other comment I'll add and this is just a statement and not a criticism. Not a single one of the shipping zip screws that held panels on my kit during shipping resulted in the panels being accurately located. That's been my experience from the past so I'm neither surprised or disappointed. But for new builders, don't take those holes/locations as gospel. They often are not. Starting points maybe. But don't be surprised or concerned if the panel alignment (including those around the panel you're working on) work best outside of those hole locations.

Not much else to say. On with pictures. Don’t hate me because I have a lot of Clecos. Leftovers from my airplane build. Kind of nice actually.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218932&d=1757990588

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218935&d=1757990611

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218934&d=1757990588

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218933&d=1757990588

One of the rear cockpit wall pieces goes on the outside. Inside the rear wheel well. It’s not obvious from the build manual. But quite obvious when you try to fit the part. Results in a little more room on the inside for the seats.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218930&d=1757990588

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218931&d=1757990588

This is where the upper trunk floor fits better under the rear wall piece. The way the wall piece is bent, there’s plenty of room and just a better overall fit. Unrelated note, I’m probably going to add a rear cubby. But haven’t decided on details. I can cut the opening and add whatever is necessary later.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218936&d=1757990611

Just a little more work in the trunk and I’ll strip everything off and get the bare pieces to the powder coater. Then work on brake and fuel lines and later the wiring harness. I have all the parts on hand and pretty sure how I’m going to route everything. Front to back will be through the tunnel upper corners. No choice with the flat chassis. Same as the Coupe. Oh good, we can debate the wisdom of doing that (again).

[edwardb]

Bonus pics sharing FWIW. For grins I stood on a ladder and took these pictures of the build as it sits today. Mostly to document where I'm at just over seven weeks since delivery.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218938&d=1757994424

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218939&d=1757994424

Closer view of the now standard trunk box included with the Mk5. Note the trunk sides are just lightly clamped in place. I'm saving their final location and riveting until later.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218937&d=1757994424

[PNWTim]

Looking good Paul. It's a great piece of advice about the Tek screw holes. I spent a bit of time fitting my engine compartment panels and I don't believe I used a single screw location.

[rickshank]

Paul - thanks for that.

Where did you need the sheetmetal pliers? Did you straighten and then rebend, or just tweak a bit for tighter/closer fit?

For the original screw holes - I think I'm understanding that you moved the panel to where you wanted, then used the original screw hole to locate a new rivet hole. Space the rivets in line with this hole for alignment/OCD?

[edwardb]

Paul - thanks for that.

Where did you need the sheetmetal pliers? Did you straighten and then rebend, or just tweak a bit for tighter/closer fit?

Nope. Don't try to straighten and rebend the panels. 99.9% you'll be unsuccessful. The aluminum typically work hardens when bent. It's not going to fully straighten and could even crack. All the bends are in the right places. Sorry if I overstated what I experienced. They just weren't always at the right angles. The pliers are just used to tweak the angles to match wherever it's supposed to fit. Sometimes it's minor. The worst was probably the floor panels. All the perimeter bends were basically 90 degrees when they should have been 75-80. As I said, this has always been part of fitting up the panels. One of the reasons why we generally recommend to fit and drill the panels before finishing, e.g. powder coat. Just seemed a little more pronounced this time. Still not a big deal though.


For the original screw holes - I think I'm understanding that you moved the panel to where you wanted, then used the original screw hole to locate a new rivet hole. Space the rivets in line with this hole for alignment/OCD?

Not a matter of moving where I wanted. Moving to where they're supposed to be. More often than not I ignored the shipping screw holes. I'm as OCD as the next guy. But the locations are random and in most cases not aligned with centered and evenly spaced rivets. Most will get buried and never seen again.

[Aleinsteingenius]

Wow. I thought I had a lot of Cleecos.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Closer view of the now standard trunk box included with the Mk5.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218937&d=1757994424

Coming along nicely Paul! A comment for you and others regarding the trunk box. I think the manual has you install it like shown in your photo (I didn't have a manual when I built mine!) but you might want to consider the alternate sequence that I used. Front panel fastened horizontally to the tube first then the 3 sided box dropped in and riveted to the tubes and the front panel bottom flange with the trunk floor installed last. This way all of the rivet heads are inside the box and all of the flanges are covered allowing for a smooth flush finish for insulation and/or carpet. Here's a pic from when I was mocking it up.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218953&d=1758045508

Cheers,
Jeff

218953

[rponfick]

Wow, Paul, 3-4" seat rise. I have some extra 4x4s laying around. I will be in the same position as you at about 5'9" and shrinking.
Ralph

[UKSNAKE]

relief thank you.

[edwardb]

Coming along nicely Paul! A comment for you and others regarding the trunk box. I think the manual has you install it like shown in your photo (I didn't have a manual when I built mine!) but you might want to consider the alternate sequence that I used. Front panel fastened horizontally to the tube first then the 3 sided box dropped in and riveted to the tubes and the front panel bottom flange with the trunk floor installed last. This way all of the rivet heads are inside the box and all of the flanges are covered allowing for a smooth flush finish for insulation and/or carpet. Here's a pic from when I was mocking it up.

Cheers,
Jeff

Thanks for the suggestion. I'm mocking all that up right now. I'll check it out.

[michael everson]

Paul. Moving the new bearing up actually improved the clearance on the coyote pedal
Mike

[edwardb]

Paul. Moving the new bearing up actually improved the clearance on the coyote pedal
Mike

Thanks Mike (and Jeff). OK, I got that one backwards. You're right, moving the mid-bearing up would increase the clearance to the Coyote connector. So looked at it again. I'm not sure what variations exist from build to build (either by Factory Five or us builders) but I have very little clearance between the mid-shaft and the pedal box. Moving the bearing up isn't an option IMO. Visible in the picture I just took. I could see where moving the pillow block down would move the wheel down and adjust the angle. But that's it for mine. I'll check this out further when I have the seats located and steering wheel in place. But I'm inclined to leave it alone. We'll see.

218981

For grins, this is the clearance I currently have for the Coyote DBW connector. Factory Five clearly made an effort to snake the steering column through multiple obstacles while also increasing available driver's space.

218982

[edwardb]

Today I finished locating, drilling and Clecoing the trunk aluminum. Not too much to say. I did try mounting the trunk box under the floor as Jeff K. suggested. But decided I liked the fit better mounting on top as the manual shows. But appreciate the recommendation. The manual shows only using sealant on the rear corners of the trunk box (e.g. no rivets) which I don’t quite understand. Super easy to drop a couple rivets in there. Have to be pulled from the inside once the box is dropped in. Just like the front ones. All the rivets on the trunk box should be pulled from the inside so the tails are on the outside. The only other thing to watch for is making sure the trunk box isn’t contacting the tank. They end up very close. The trunk sides and back I’ll finalize later.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219036&d=1758209977

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219039&d=1758209977

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219037&d=1758209977

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219038&d=1758209977

Next up, all the cockpit and trunk aluminum back off, to the powder coater, and start fuel and brake lines.

[rponfick]

Paul, regarding your comment about mounting that rear cockpit panel on the outside in the wheel well, no wonder I had so much trouble mounting it on the inside. Oh, well.
Ralph

[Ramjet]

Good evening Paul,

Your build is looking really great!! I decided to use the same Holley Sniper EFI 12-345+ fuel pump as you. (I wasn’t sure if the provided pump would be big enough for the 5.2 Aluminator? And I didn’t like the modifications that are needed to make it work) Which AN 90 connectors did you use on your fuel pump to attach the fuel lines? Are you planing to run the provided fuel lines and regulator in the kit with this pump? I also picked up a Holley 12-880 Adjustable Billet By-Pass Regulator, -6 AN since it was recommended to pair with the Holley fuel pump. (Maybe not necessary?)

Eric

[edwardb]

Good evening Paul,

Your build is looking really great!! I decided to use the same Holley Sniper EFI 12-345+ fuel pump as you. (I wasn’t sure if the provided pump would be big enough for the 5.2 Aluminator? And I didn’t like the modifications that are needed to make it work) Which AN 90 connectors did you use on your fuel pump to attach the fuel lines? Are you planing to run the provided fuel lines and regulator in the kit with this pump? I also picked up a Holley 12-880 Adjustable Billet By-Pass Regulator, -6 AN since it was recommended to pair with the Holley fuel pump. (Maybe not necessary?)

Eric

Thanks. I didn't buy the FF EFI kit. I'm sourcing all my own parts as I've done on previous builds. Agree their pump and lines are on the small side for the 5.2 Aluminator. I used Earls AT949006ERL 90 degree swivel 6AN O-ring outlet and return port fittings on the Holley pump. As I recall, those were the ones recommended in the Holley instructions. They fit perfectly. I'm using an Aeromotive Universal 13129 Bypass Regulator. I've used this regulator on previous builds. My fuel lines are all Aeroquip TFE Racing Hose 6AN flexible braided SS, with Aeroquip fittings. I've got some of it complete. My next update will be for fuel and brake lines once I get things further along. Here's a picture of the fittings at the pump. Just noticed this close-up picture with my iPhone makes things looked curved and crooked. They're not...

219220

[Aleinsteingenius]

I think I am going to follow your lead on the fuel system. It is hard to argue with somebody who says "as I have done on my previous builds".

[Ramjet]

Thanks again Paul for the advice.
I can’t wait to see what you came up with for your fuel system. I’m definitely following this one closely.

[Erik W. Treves]

Today I finished locating, drilling and Clecoing the trunk aluminum. Not too much to say. I did try mounting the trunk box under the floor as Jeff K. suggested. But decided I liked the fit better mounting on top as the manual shows. But appreciate the recommendation. The manual shows only using sealant on the rear corners of the trunk box (e.g. no rivets) which I don’t quite understand. Super easy to drop a couple rivets in there. Have to be pulled from the inside once the box is dropped in. Just like the front ones. All the rivets on the trunk box should be pulled from the inside so the tails are on the outside. The only other thing to watch for is making sure the trunk box isn’t contacting the tank. They end up very close. The trunk sides and back I’ll finalize later.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219036&d=1758209977

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219039&d=1758209977

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219037&d=1758209977

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219038&d=1758209977

Next up, all the cockpit and trunk aluminum back off, to the powder coater, and start fuel and brake lines.

Paul

I am sure you have it covered already - but I am noticing that the access in the rear panel of the truck is absent like the Betas - I thought they were planning to add a panel /cut out in there to aid with the rear hatch rod to close and lock the trunk... I ended up just drilling it with the body on and then tapping the frame.... just didn't want you to get to the body part and realize you couldn't put the nut on the supplied bolt

[Erik W. Treves]

The other thing I am seeing - if you look at Jeff's Beta aluminum - we cut the pump access hole a bit wider as it was mis-cut on the betas..... make sure you can still pull the pump out with the aluminum installed - I couldn't.

[Jeff Kleiner]

The other thing I am seeing - if you look at Jeff's Beta aluminum - we cut the pump access hole a bit wider as it was mis-cut on the betas..... make sure you can still pull the pump out with the aluminum installed - I couldn't.

Yes, as Erik said I cut mine to the trapezoid shown in my photo because we found that the traditional rounded rectangle was not going to be friendly if the pump ever had to be accessed. Thought FFR was going to follow suit but apparently not...

Jeff

[edwardb]

Paul

I am sure you have it covered already - but I am noticing that the access in the rear panel of the truck is absent like the Betas - I thought they were planning to add a panel /cut out in there to aid with the rear hatch rod to close and lock the trunk... I ended up just drilling it with the body on and then tapping the frame.... just didn't want you to get to the body part and realize you couldn't put the nut on the supplied bolt


The other thing I am seeing - if you look at Jeff's Beta aluminum - we cut the pump access hole a bit wider as it was mis-cut on the betas..... make sure you can still pull the pump out with the aluminum installed - I couldn't.


Yes, as Erik said I cut mine to the trapezoid shown in my photo because we found that the traditional rounded rectangle was not going to be friendly if the pump ever had to be accessed. Thought FFR was going to follow suit but apparently not...

Jeff

Haven't gotten to the trunk lock mechanism and lock rod yet. Pretty far away. But thanks for the heads up. That was challenging on the previous versions as well. Took skinny fingers to get behind there for the nut. Tapping the frame is a good idea.

All my previous builds I've riveted and carpeted over the sender and pump covers. Figured with a lift it's not that hard to drop the tank if needed. Probably cheating fate to say it hasn't happened yet and wouldn't be nice if something happened away from home. I am going to install the access covers this time and figure out a way to have carpet but still accessible. Maybe Velcro in those areas. My plane build was that way and it worked pretty well. As for access to the pump, the Holley pump I'm using is pretty slim and compact. Much more so than the traditional hangar style. I think it will came through that hole where it's located.

219310

[Jeff Kleiner]

Haven't gotten to the trunk lock mechanism and lock rod yet. Pretty far away. But thanks for the heads up. That was challenging on the previous versions as well. Took skinny fingers to get behind there for the nut. Tapping the frame is a good idea.



I did the Mk5 same way I do all of the others which is to install a 10-24 rivnut for the latch rod. Just like with the earlier roadsters it's kind of a two step deal---you must have the body on to locate where to put the hole but then have to have the body off---or at least the tail raised---to get the rivnut tool in position. Whole lot easier that fiddling around blind on the backside with that nut though!

Jeff

[edwardb]

Finished installing the brake lines and mostly finished with the fuel lines. Before descriptions and pictures, you’ll see I didn’t use any kit supplied parts. A reminder about my disclaimer back in post #55: Almost without exception these are personal choices based on build experience, preferences, bias, etc. Not because there’s necessarily anything wrong with the Factory Five kit parts.

Brake Lines: I’m not a fan of the pieced together brake lines provided. Plus learning to do flares is not that hard with the right tools (I can build a car, right?). So, I’ve always fabricated my own brake lines using full length pieces. For several builds, I used SS brake lines. A little challenging to work with. Even with properly annealed tubing and the quality Eastwood Professional flaring tool, it’s easy to get cracks in the flares. Mainly in the second step where the fold-over is made. I found a gentle pull on the Eastwood tool mainly eliminates it. But it still happens. Also, in the past I was able to get 10' straight lengths from InLine Tube, a local supplier for me. But they stopped doing counter sales and will only ship in coils. Coiled SS tubing can certainly be straightened but takes some effort. For the truck build, I decided to try steel lines. Specifically Classic Tube C3 from Summit. Comes in a 25 foot coil and straightens relatively easily. I bought a $28 3/16" tubing straightener on Amazon that gets it close. The Eastwood flaring tool makes perfect flares in this material every time. Described as having “Galfan galvanizing and a topcoat of aluminum-rich epoxy” so shouldn’t rust or corrode. With a little steel wool looks (almost…) as shiny as SS.

For the actual installation, I chose not to install the optional power brake setup. As mentioned before, I have the same non-powered Wilwood brakes in my Coupe and I’m satisfied with them. Plus, I’m pretty sure real estate is going to be tight up front with the cold air intake and expansion tank for the Aluminator. So, my brake line routing is relatively straightforward including through the top LH corner of the transmission tunnel. I was able to do the MC to rear tee and MC to front tee in single pieces. Nothing wrong with unions but I figure the fewer connections the less chance for leaks plus I find it a challenge. To hold in place, I used Adel style clamps with rivets and Allstar Performance line clamps in the front where they’re more visible. The pictures provide additional details.

Fuel Lines: My Coupe has 3/8” supply and return lines with rigid SS. 3/8" lines are pretty much mandatory for a Coyote and now Aluminator, plus recommended by the regulator and pump suppliers. For the reasons already mentioned, on the truck build I used mostly TFE lined flexible SS braided hose. That’s becoming a popular option. Did the same on this build. There are multiple and cheaper options, but I like Aeroquip products. Domestically made, very solid, and I’m used to how they go together. Aeroquip -6 AN TFE Racing Hose flexible braided SS and Aeroquip FBM1103 fittings. Also, same as the truck build, I installed an Aeromotive Universal 13129 regulator at the back by the tank. This makes a short return line and only a single supply line is required to the engine. The obvious downside is the regulator is not as accessible. My experience is that once the regulator is set, it rarely if ever needs to be readjusted. So, a little extra effort at first, but a non-issue after that. Generally considered good practice to remove the gauge once everything is set and stabilized. I give it a few hundred miles plus the custom tune, then remove. I’ve used the Trick Flow TFS-23006 10 micron fuel filter on multiple builds. A quality piece. I’m using a Holley Sniper EFI 12-345+ 340 LPH pump. Came with the engine I purchased and seems like a nice piece. So, with the pieces gathered, played around to find the best layout for everything and installed. It’s a little tight back there with the trunk box, but it all fits OK. The fuel line is routed through the top LH corner of the transmission tunnel next to the brake line. Also held in place with Adel style clamps. Note I only have Clecos on the clamps right now. I need the engine in place to get the exact location of the inlet on the engine and the final length of the hose with the last fitting. Pretty much need to install the fitting on the bench clamped in a vise so need the hose removeable for now. Will rivet the clamps when finalized and back in.

With that, lots of pictures. Fuel lines, filter, regulator, and brake lines at the back:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219511&d=1759074800

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219512&d=1759074800

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219514&d=1759074827

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219513&d=1759074800

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219509&d=1759074800

Lines through the transmission tunnel. Ignore the rear RF harness leg. Just starting to play around with how/where it will get routed. Pretty confident it won’t be wrapped around the differential flange as pictured.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219515&d=1759074827

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219510&d=1759074800

[edwardb]

Brake lines attached to the MC’s. Front on the left, rear on the right.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219516&d=1759074827

Front brake line under the frame rail.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219518&d=1759074827

Front brake line cross-over.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219517&d=1759074827

A few more details on the aluminum panels, then will be moving them to the powder coater. Then will start digging into electrical. Heard from FF that the anniversary wheels have arrived. So hopefully will see them soon. After that, only one remaining POL item.

[Ejzajac]

Great looking brake lines!
What are the pros and cons of running the brake/fuel lines in the transmission tunnel vs. in the pedal box.
Some builders seem to have a real preference for the pedal box.
Really like the concept of the regulator near the gas tank. What are opinions on the Aeromotive 13147 which is a combined regulator/filter system with -AN6 fittings.
May help with a now somewhat tighter space with the Mk5 drop trunk.
Thanks.
Ed

[edwardb]

Great looking brake lines!
What are the pros and cons of running the brake/fuel lines in the transmission tunnel vs. in the pedal box.
Some builders seem to have a real preference for the pedal box.

Thanks. I don’t quite understand what you’re describing. Pedal box is only the very front. The lines have to get to the back somehow. Do you mean inside the cockpit? I haven’t seen any builders doing it any differently than I did. Yes, lots of debate about running the lines inside the tunnel with the spinning driveshaft. But I don’t want to start the debate here (again). I did what I’ve done several times before and also what’s in the FF build manual. I put the lines as far away as possible from any moving parts and considering a driveshaft safety loop. It will be fine.


Really like the concept of the regulator near the gas tank. What are opinions on the Aeromotive 13147 which is a combined regulator/filter system with -AN6 fittings.
May help with a now somewhat tighter space with the Mk5 drop trunk.

I used parts that I’ve used multiple times and have had good experiences with. It’s a little tight and congested but worked out OK. I’m happy with it. I have high regard for parts from Aeromotive so it's probably a fine part. But I have no experience with their combined regulator/filter system so therefore no opinion.

[Ejzajac]

Thanks yet again.
Ed

[MakoGT350]

Pretty light update this week. I installed the steering column along with the various U-joints. Not much to say. The instructions are detailed and clear. Part of what I installed can stay. A little will have to come out. When I receive the anodized aluminum panels (on the way!!) I’ll need to remove the flange bearing on the front of the footbox to install the panel and then put it back. I’m also waiting to see if the long shaft between the steering rack and footbox will get in the way when installing the engine. Previous Mk’s it was, but this one looks a little more tucked in. We’ll see. One piece of advice, check the button screws on the U-joints that retain the cross shafts. About half of mine were barely finger tight. I suspect the cross shafts are pressed in and won’t fall out without the screw. But don’t wish to take the chance. I removed all of them and put back in with blue Loctite and made sure they were properly tightened.

Now for the fun part of this update. The self-cancelling turn signal switch. I’m happy to see Factory Five is now making this part of the kit. Also happy to see it uses the Hot Rod connector on the RF harness which simplifies things. Including no longer needing the trailer converter. The very common Delco Remy switch has been successfully used on millions of GM vehicles. I did find installing it was a little challenging. Cut to the chase – I’ve got it working OK even though I almost gave up a couple of times. I posted in another build thread what I did for the installation so will mostly just copy that here. It's a bit "fiddly" but would be easier the next time because I have an idea what works and what doesn't. These are the takeaways for me. Maybe this will help others. Some (most?) probably obvious but FWIW.


The overall goal here is to get the turn signal switch exactly centered around the steering shaft. Keep that in mind the whole time.
If you haven’t already, clean up the steering shaft and 1” DD tube so that the steering shaft goes in without excessive force. Sometime it’s a matter of removing burrs or whatever. Sometimes necessary to lightly sand the steering shaft with Emory cloth until they go together but can still be easily moved/adjusted/etc. If you force it in (some do…) you’ll regret it later.
File the mating surfaces of the turn signal switch mounting bracket so it's flat against the chassis bracket and the turn signal switch. Mine had some bumps from where it was bent and every little bit affects how it aligns.
Install the middle 1” pillow block to the chassis along with the 1" DD tube that goes through it and the pillow block by the turn signal switch. That angle is part of centering the steering shaft through the switch.
A stack of washers is needed between the chassis bracket holding the turn signal switch and the pillow block underneath. How many, how thick, etc. will be determined by assembling and taking it apart multiple times (I lost track) to achieve the proper alignment. Tighten the bolts all the way to see what the actual alignment is. The supplied bolts were too short in my case.
I got the alignment close with the washer stack. But at least in my case wasn't 100% exact. I was able to fine tune it by loosening the three #10 screws holding the turn signal switch to the bracket and shifting it just enough. There's a bit of wiggle room there.
The angle on my mounting bracket was just slightly off. With the cams centered on the top spring they weren't exactly centered on the bottom one. In the bench vise and a couple blows with a small sledge and it was perfect.
Slide the cam piece on to check even alignment all around each time. My cam piece has quite a bit of weld on it (pictured) which I sanded off. But it turns out as long as the cams are clear, it will work OK.
Follow the instructions regarding setting the depth of the cam exactly. Properly set, the cams just brush both springs as the steering shaft is turning while the switch is off (centered) and should self-cancel each direction as you rotate the steering shaft. Note the GM switch has the "lane change" function as well. So you don't have to pull the stalk into self-cancel mode for lane changing. Nice.
I didn't have trouble getting the screw in that holds the stalk. Agree it's tight but nothing spun or whatever.
Last point, it would be possible to raise the height of the steering wheel with a different combination of washers/spacers potentially on both sides. I did what's shown in the manual. But variations are possible.

Pictures show what mine looks like now. Note the cam isn't in the right location in the first picture. That was taken right after I had everything together but no adjusted. Open questions: The hazard button on the side will end up behind the dash which is less than ideal. Not even sure it’s reachable or would pass some inspections. I’ve played with the wiring and with some more work expect to be able to break into the harness and install a dash switch. The turn signal stalk would need to be removed to install the dash. Which makes the retaining screw a little hard to reach. We’ll see on that one. I’m looking at a couple enhancements as well. I’m planning cruise control and will add the control to the end of the stalk. Also thinking about 3D printing a filler between the steering wheel hub and the dash. Since the polished aluminum piece that used to be part of this assembly is no longer being used. Busy week ahead and my wife has surgery next week (a new knee, long overdue...) so things may slow down a bit. But with the rest of my panels on the way, a bunch of drilling and Clecos are in my future.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217216&d=1754342620

Looking for insight at this stage in the build to set the depth on the steering shaft that the steering wheel attaches to. Without a dash in place, I am unsure how to set the depth of the shaft and subsequently the depth of the cam for the turn signal switch.

[edwardb]

Looking for insight at this stage in the build to set the depth on the steering shaft that the steering wheel attaches to. Without a dash in place, I am unsure how to set the depth of the shaft and subsequently the depth of the cam for the turn signal switch.

Short answer -- you can't. Installing the turn signal cam now as the manual shows is OK to confirm it works. But until you have the dash and steering wheel installed, you won't know the final location for the shaft. Once you do, you can lock the cam down for good. Hopefully you've done whatever necessary for the shaft to slide without major effort.

[cv2065]

Nice work Paul. The trunk looks very spacious. I like how the access holes are more properly aligned with the fuel pump and sending unit. I also used a Tilton for the clutch MC. Guess we'll see how it compares to the Wilwoods. Brake lines look fantastic. Does the new frame tubing prevent one from running the brake lines outside the tunnel or just your preference?

[edwardb]

Does the new frame tubing prevent one from running the brake lines outside the tunnel or just your preference?

Yes, the bottom of the frame is flat same as the Coupe. So no way to mount anything underneath or would be the first thing to contact if that should happen. Brake lines, fuel lines, and electrical go through the transmission tunnel to get from front to back. I'm putting them in the top furthest corners. The only possible concern is the 11" long spinning driveshaft. Considering a safety hoop around it. Likely not needed for how I drive the car. But IMO good practice.

[Ramjet]

Paul,

Great work on the fuel and brake lines! Love how clean you got your lines run. I previously didn’t think about running the regulator in the rear. I like the idea of only running 1 fuel line to the front, but I think I will still run my regulator in the engine bay. I need to get creative on the brake booster, like you I think it’s going to get tight up front with the aluminator intake.

Did you also go with (stainless) steel brake line connectors? I like how you connected a tee directly at the front left soft line (less points of failure) and have a really clean look. Could you share the part you used for that connection as well, I’m trying to source that part?

Eric

[edwardb]

Paul,

Great work on the fuel and brake lines! Love how clean you got your lines run. I previously didn’t think about running the regulator in the rear. I like the idea of only running 1 fuel line to the front, but I think I will still run my regulator in the engine bay. I need to get creative on the brake booster, like you I think it’s going to get tight up front with the aluminator intake.

Did you also go with (stainless) steel brake line connectors? I like how you connected a tee directly at the front left soft line (less points of failure) and have a really clean look. Could you share the part you used for that connection as well, I’m trying to source that part?

Eric

Not trying to change your mind, but curious why you're still going to put the regulator in front and run two lines if you think it's a good idea. Other than the inconvenience of the initial adjustment, there's no downside. I've done both. Couple builds with the regulator in the front (my Coupe is that way) but now the second in the back. The truck was my first and zero downsides after it was first setup. Something I didn't mention as another positive is one less line going through the transmission tunnel.

Thanks regarding the brake lines. The flare tube nuts are steel Allstar Performance ALL50110. SS ones are much more expensive and not needed here. The use of the tee fitting directly to the flex line on the front brakes isn't an original idea with me. Factory Five has shown doing it that way on every build I've done. It's in the build manual. The tee is slightly different than a regular tee in that it has two female connections and one male. That way it can thread into the fitting for the flex line. These come in the kit. Sometimes they're brass. Sometimes steel colored like the one I used on this build. Note that the Mk5 manual also shows a similar setup for the rear brakes. I didn't use it there opting instead for the routing I pictured. They are widely available to purchase. Often called a "Trailer Brake Tee." Apparently they have some purpose for connecting trailer brakes.

[edwardb]

When the Gen 3 Coupe came out, lots of discussion about where to place the RF fuse panel. Wasn’t mentioned anywhere in the instructions that I know of. The FF prototype Coupe had the panel on the diagonal tube in the LH (driver) footbox. I looked at various options and decided to do the same. It worked fine for me. This thread was one of the discussions: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?50130-Coupe-fuse-panel-placement.

Based on the similarity of the Mk5 chassis to the Gen 3 Coupe, I’ve thought through this and decided to do the same with this build. One of the objections that some raise is that you will run into it with your knees. I can say after 5 seasons of driving our Gen 3 Coupe, I’ve never been close. It’s well up out of the way. I've measured, and the distance from the floor to the panel is the same as the Coupe. The RF harness is more or less configured for the panel to be in this location, even though I will probably be hacking it up as in the past. Agree it gets congested in that area, but other locations would take away space I have planned for other things.

Related is the mounting plate provided for the panel. Mounted on only one edge is likely OK. But I prefer a little more. On the Coupe build, I fabricated and riveted some side braces to the provided panel. They give stiffness to the panel and also provide another mounting location on the back of the chassis tube. I basically duplicated for this build. I drilled and tapped 10-32 threads in the frame. I used the fuse panel harness to determine the location. Basically as high as possible while still allowing access to drill and tap all the mounting holes. The pictures tell the story. Also reminds me of the work ahead on wiring and making that harness fit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219659&d=1759370464

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219656&d=1759370464

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219657&d=1759370464

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219658&d=1759370464

That’s it for parts that require powder coat. Off they go.

[Ramjet]

Not trying to change your mind, but curious why you're still going to put the regulator in front and run two lines if you think it's a good idea. Other than the inconvenience of the initial adjustment, there's no downside. I've done both. Couple builds with the regulator in the front (my Coupe is that way) but now the second in the back. The truck was my first and zero downsides after it was first setup. Something I didn't mention as another positive is one less line going through the transmission tunnel.

Thanks regarding the brake lines. The flare tube nuts are steel Allstar Performance ALL50110. SS ones are much more expensive and not needed here. The use of the tee fitting directly to the flex line on the front brakes isn't an original idea with me. Factory Five has shown doing it that way on every build I've done. It's in the build manual. The tee is slightly different than a regular tee in that it has two female connections and one male. That way it can thread into the fitting for the flex line. These come in the kit. Sometimes they're brass. Sometimes steel colored like the one I used on this build. Note that the Mk5 manual also shows a similar setup for the rear brakes. I didn't use it there opting instead for the routing I pictured. They are widely available to purchase. Often called a "Trailer Brake Tee." Apparently they have some purpose for connecting trailer brakes.

Thanks again Paul,

I’ve been staring at my frame contemplating how I want to run brake and fuel lines. And you have me convinced on running the fuel regulator in the rear like you have (especially with that working well in the past for you). With the 5.2 aluminator are you running a vacuum line to the regulator as well?

Eric

[edwardb]

Thanks again Paul,

I’ve been staring at my frame contemplating how I want to run brake and fuel lines. And you have me convinced on running the fuel regulator in the rear like you have (especially with that working well in the past for you). With the 5.2 aluminator are you running a vacuum line to the regulator as well?

Eric

I've had three Coyotes custom tuned by Lund. In all cases they didn't want a vacuum reference signal connected to the regulator. They said to leave the vacuum/boost reference connection on the regulator open to the atmosphere. They said the only time that's needed is for forced induction. For normally aspirated, they want it left open. I'm assuming the Aluminator will be the same since it's a version of a Coyote and also normally aspirated. So, no, I'm not running a vacuum line to the regulator. Also one less thing to plumb at the engine since the FF instructions show it. But I do recommend replacing the nipple connection on the regulator with an Aeromotive 15662 regulator breather. Not expensive and keeps debris out of the regulator.

219846

[Ejzajac]

One final regulator question.
I see your Aerometer 13129 is mounted with the "adjuster nut" facing horizontally. For an EFI regulator without a vacuum connection, could the system be positioned with the adjuster nut facing upward and not effect performance. Aerometer tech service was not very helpful with an answer. Hence, the question here for the pros at the forum! This configuration would allow positioning on the inside PS frame next to the tank. Thanks.
Ed

[edwardb]

One final regulator question.
I see your Aerometer 13129 is mounted with the "adjuster nut" facing horizontally. For an EFI regulator without a vacuum connection, could the system be positioned with the adjuster nut facing upward and not effect performance. Aerometer tech service was not very helpful with an answer. Hence, the question here for the pros at the forum! This configuration would allow positioning on the inside PS frame next to the tank. Thanks.
Ed

The Aeromotive regulator is a pressure device. At the 50-60 PSI pressures we're running with EFI, gravity isn't going to be in play. The diaphragm and spring inside the regulator wouldn't be affected by orientation. My rationale for how it's mounted here includes (1) where the mounting bracket is in relation to a suitable chassis mount location, (2) visibility of the gauge, (3) access to the adjustment nut, (4) smooth, straight through routing for the supply line. Although not a huge factor, excessive right angles, adapters, etc. do affect the pressure.

I reviewed the Aeromotive instructions for several of their regulators. They don't address orientation so hopefully that confirms what I'm doing. They do specifically say to mount the regulator as close to the engine as possible. So that the regulated flow has the quickest reaction to engine demands. That's a point I guess. But my rationale is with our somewhat small cars the distance from the back isn't huge and the pressures we're running have enough margin. I mounted this same regulator in my truck build in the exact orientation and similar location as shown here. It ran fine.

[edwardb]

Today my friend Greg and I dropped the Aluminator 5.2 XS into my chassis. My initial plan was as a mockup. Space is tight and I didn’t want to chance locating everything in the engine compartment without knowing exactly what space was available, the most efficient, as neat as possible, etc. Now that it’s in there, accessibility is reasonable for what I need to locate and add. So maybe it gets to stay. We’ll see.

For my other Coyote builds, I used some homemade lifting brackets at the factory lift locations on the LH side and back. They were OK. But for the Coupe, I sprung for the TD Motion lifting brackets. An improvement over my homemade ones. But still takes some fiddling to get things to balance and the back one especially can get in the way when stabbing the engine into place. Forum member nuhale offered to let me use his Coyote engine stand and manifold lift plate. I picked them up at LCS in June. I’ve had the engine on that stand since then. I wasn’t sure about the manifold lift plate because you have to remove the installed intake and I wasn’t excited about taking anything apart on the engine. But on further review, it couldn’t be much simpler. Only necessary to unplug the connectors on the injectors and the throttle bodies (two in this case). Then loosen the mounting screws and the intake lifts right off. The injectors, fuel rails, etc. all stay in place. So I went for it. The manifold lift plate provides a big beefy lifting point reminding me of the old days with a carb intake lifting plate. Nothing else is required. Just a direct connection to the shop crane.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219897&d=1759893489

Unfolded my 2-ton HF shop crane and confirmed when lifting from this point I could get the engine far enough in from the front. Note without the radiator. That wouldn’t work. I don’t have any in-process pictures (we were busy) but this really worked great. The engine naturally hangs with the transmission down. It’s relatively easy to push it down even further when initially going in. Also relatively easy to lift the transmission to level for the last steps. Using a floor jack helps. A few wiggles and the motor mount bolts and pins dropped in. Total time less than an hour. Followed the usual hints of leaving the motor mounts just slightly loose until the engine was in place and also lined the engine compartment with moving blankets. The Coyote is a tight fit (no surprise) and about a finger width of clearance on each side at the heads (I just happen to know that, you can guess why). Without the blankets it would easy to crash into that nice 30th Anniversary anodize finish and leave a mark. I didn’t have the starter, alternator, oil filter, steering column, and shifter installed. Might go in with some (all) of those items in place. But definitely eliminates some interference points while dropping in. All easy enough to add once in. One thing I noticed. Tremec is using a gasket on the TKX shifter plate instead of whatever that sealant/adhesive was on the the TKO and T56. You know the stuff you had to pry and sometimes get a little rough to break loose. Not much else to say. Pictures of the engine in place. Obviously I removed the lift plate and put the Cobra Jet intake back on. The engine looks good in there. I'm pretty excited about it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219898&d=1759893489

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219899&d=1759893489

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219901&d=1759893489

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219900&d=1759893489

Conclusions so far:


The Coyote (aka Aluminator) is tight. What else is new. But definitely not as tight as the Mk4. Similar to the Coupe which is no surprise. The transmission tunnel has tons of room for the TKX. I haven't tried yet, but the header bolts on both sides are relatively accessible.

My routing of the brake lines, fuel line, and rear harness fit into the upper corners of the transmission tunnel with plenty of room to spare.

I’ll be able to establish the location of the final fuel connection at the engine, take the fuel line out to install the last AN6 fitting, and then back in. Looks like I’ll be able to reach the 3/16” rivets for the Adel clamps holding the fuel line with the engine in place.

Started work on the transmission mount. Right now it’s just sitting on the mounting plate and a spacer is definitely required. Somewhere in the 3/4 to 1” range. Required for a reasonable pinion angle, get the back half of the oil pan at or above the frame, and also for the transmission to clear the 90-degree angle on the mounting plate. With no spacers it’s not possible to line up the bolts in any orientation. I’ll get that sorted out.

The Cobra Jet intake looks high. But these engines have gone into these cars before. Including the Joey Logano Coupe build. So I’m confident it will be OK. It’s only about 1” higher than the stock Gen 3 engine cover in my Coupe. Looks like more than that.

Plenty of room in the transmission tunnel for the shifter to be in either the front or back orientation. I'll see which is the most comfortable later. The way the frame is configured on the Mk5 it shouldn't be necessary to do any frame cutting in the future.


That’s it for now as I sort through details and start figuring out where everything should go. The list includes the Mustang style expansion tank, the cold air intake, the Coyote PCM, PDB and wiring harness, the wiper motor (and likely washer tank), and brake/clutch reservoirs. I’m planning to drop the body into place (that will be temporary) to confirm final height and locations.

On a separate note, my 18” Anniversary wheels arrived. Look nice. Minor complaint – the kit supplied rear wheel studs are slightly too long. Interfere about 1/16” with the lug nut cover. I’ll chop the ends off enough to clear. I haven’t checked the front yet. No big deal but a little bit of a nuisance. These are custom builds, right?

[rickshank]

Thanks for the stud length note. Mine will hit as well (non-anniversary, August delivery). I'm going to turn mine down on the lathe before I get too far.

Edit - assuming same wheels as my18” Halibrand minus the color, the fronts clear the knockoffs just fine.

Waiting for some 1/2-20 couplers to come from Amazon this evening and then I’ll cut down the rear studs tomorrow.

[MakoGT350]

Front brake line cross-over.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219517&d=1759074827

A few more details on the aluminum panels, then will be moving them to the powder coater. Then will start digging into electrical. Heard from FF that the anniversary wheels have arrived. So hopefully will see them soon. After that, only one remaining POL item.

Question - have you placed the battery tray yet? (maybe you are going with alternate location?) The manual is vague on the cross over line routing and the battery tray placement

[rponfick]

On the battery tray, I just looked at the latest version of the assembly manual and there have been some serious changes in this area. Not sure if they have taken out some frame cross bracing in the new frames, but that area looks really different in the new online manual. Battery tray shown is really batman. Maybe some changes to accommodate the power brake mounting space limitations.
Ralph

[edwardb]

Question - have you placed the battery tray yet? (maybe you are going with alternate location?) The manual is vague on the cross over line routing and the battery tray placement

I'm not using the kit supplied battery tray. I'm using an Artec Industries OY9251 battery mount with a Odyssey PC925T battery. Same combination I have in the Coupe and same battery many use. I can't show a picture because the battery mount is at the powder coater along with all the other parts I'm having coated. But it fits in front of that cross tube and away from the cross over brake line. There's enough room.


On the battery tray, I just looked at the latest version of the assembly manual and there have been some serious changes in this area. Not sure if they have taken out some frame cross bracing in the new frames, but that area looks really different in the new online manual. Battery tray shown is really batman. Maybe some changes to accommodate the power brake mounting space limitations.
Ralph

Wow, you're right. Also just looked at the most current manual Revision 1O, October 2025. Yes, the cross braces are removed and they have a brand new battery tray, hold-down, and mounting tabs on the frame. Looks like a significant improvement. Screen grab below. The tray and hold-down included with this build were the same as what came with my Coupe kit 7 years ago and I didn't like them back then either. With the diagonal cross braces removed, the new tray also sits lower. Would provide more space for the power brake booster. Not an issue on this build since I'm not installing one. Also looks like it comes out from the bottom to make a battery sway easier.

220037

[Jeff Kleiner]

On the battery tray, I just looked at the latest version of the assembly manual and there have been some serious changes in this area. Not sure if they have taken out some frame cross bracing in the new frames, but that area looks really different in the new online manual. Battery tray shown is really batman. Maybe some changes to accommodate the power brake mounting space limitations.
Ralph

Yep, on the Beta cars we found (and reported) that when using the booster you couldn't fit a standard battery in without some forward planning and/or complicated gymnastics. I was at FFR in the spring while the techs were building their 30th Anniversary car and I don't think the problem was driven home until they tried it themselves and found that it required taking the already plumbed booster loose and removing some of the front dress from the engine! And just like that a revision was made ;)

Jeff

[Mike.Bray]

on the Beta cars we found

You know what they say about pioneers, they end up with an *** full of arrows:rolleyes:

[dr-sicel]

Hi there - this is coming along nicely. I’m back at it now that I have most of my MIK parts.
Couple questions:
1. For the lower, corner, rear cockpit pieces, the the triangular ones, I noticed you put it on the outside of the floor bends - I believe the manual says to put those on the inside of the bends but outside the chassis beam. I’m curious as to the reasoning - I was thinking of doing the same as it would look nicer from the outside (not that one would be looking under the rear wheel all that often…)
2. I know lots powder coat - with the anniversary kit, all the “visible” aluminum is powder coated… what’s your thinking behind powder coating the rest?j
3. And… final question (for today, or at least this post)… I noticed you went with non-powered brakes. that is the set up I am looking to do, though I’m almost but not quite at the point of running the brake lines… I know there are many opinions and you have done it both ways, but I’m curious why you chose that for this build. I have no frame of reference being my first build.

[MakoGT350]

Yep, on the Beta cars we found (and reported) that when using the booster you couldn't fit a standard battery in without some forward planning and/or complicated gymnastics. I was at FFR in the spring while the techs were building their 30th Anniversary car and I don't think the problem was driven home until they tried it themselves and found that it required taking the already plumbed booster loose and removing some of the front dress from the engine! And just like that a revision was made ;)

Jeff

[brace for sarcasm....]
This is all very helpful to know...but with a MKV that has the cross braces and a booster...does this all mean I am sort of hosed?

[edwardb]

[brace for sarcasm....]
This is all very helpful to know...but with a MKV that has the cross braces and a booster...does this all mean I am sort of hosed?

Jeff's response specifically said standard battery. A smaller battery would likely fit. The Odyssey PC925T battery I'm using is only 5" high. They're not cheap but I've used them on several builds. There are likely other brands/sizes as well.

[edwardb]

Hi there - this is coming along nicely. I’m back at it now that I have most of my MIK parts.
Couple questions:
1. For the lower, corner, rear cockpit pieces, the the triangular ones, I noticed you put it on the outside of the floor bends - I believe the manual says to put those on the inside of the bends but outside the chassis beam. I’m curious as to the reasoning - I was thinking of doing the same as it would look nicer from the outside (not that one would be looking under the rear wheel all that often…)
2. I know lots powder coat - with the anniversary kit, all the “visible” aluminum is powder coated… what’s your thinking behind powder coating the rest?j
3. And… final question (for today, or at least this post)… I noticed you went with non-powered brakes. that is the set up I am looking to do, though I’m almost but not quite at the point of running the brake lines… I know there are many opinions and you have done it both ways, but I’m curious why you chose that for this build. I have no frame of reference being my first build.

1. I didn't look at the manual that closely to be honest. I did it that way because (1) every other build I've done was that way, and (2) those pieces all have the FF applied anodize. So putting the pieces on the outside of the bends eliminates the unfinished edges showing. (Even though on my build I will be finishing them.) Mainly I don't think it matters. I didn't have to do anything special to make the pieces fit that way.

2. For the record, the 30th anniversary finish by FF is actually anodize. Not powder coat. As for the rest, it's a matter of personal choice and your definition of "visible." For me, I don't want any bare aluminum showing anywhere, including the bottom of the chassis or elsewhere. That's my definition of visible but not everyone. All my builds I've finished everything and will on this build as well. I'll be powder coating all the remaining pieces except a few that are completely buried. Like the cockpit outside wall pieces.

3. I've talked about this elsewhere. I've done three builds with power brakes (vacuum and hydroboost) and they worked OK. Then two I've done with these big Wilwoods and no power assist. Including my current driver a Gen 3 Coupe. I'm more than happy with how they stop. So I'm avoiding the complication of adding power on this build with the same Wilwoods. Granted it's a heavier pedal without power and for some this is a deal breaker. I'm totally used to it and doesn't bother me at all. But the other factor for me is simply a matter of space. The Aluminator I have in this build requires a quite large cold air intake. That plus the Mustang style expansion tank I'll use as I've also done in the past. I'm nearly certain I would have a space issue adding the booster in that area. All adds up to no power for me. But again, it's absolutely a matter of personal preference. There's not one right answer.

[edwardb]

Installed the Aluminator last week as already described. My thought was only as a mockup. But now I’m 99% sure I can do what I need to do with it staying. So I’m committed to that. For now. Finished up several things as a result. Steering shaft needs to be out of the way to install the engine. But now I have it back in and complete. Fuel supply AN6 SS line is cut to length, fitting installed, and all the clamps riveted. The Aluminator comes with a special (and somewhat expensive) oil filter. The standard full-size oil filters don’t typically fit in these cars. So I’ve been using the much smaller ones like the Mobil 1 M1-113. But this Ford Performance CM-6731-FL820 is in between those two sizes and fits. I’ll probably follow the recommendations and use them in the future as well. For grins, I got out the ceramic coated Gas-N headers that came with my engine for a sanity check. The RH side goes into place and looks OK for now. Of course won’t know for sure until the body is on and real pipe fitting begins. As for the LH side, because I also installed the alternator, I can’t get the header in. So when the time comes, will deal with that. Seem to remember this same thing with the Coupe.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220062&d=1760308831

Spent some money and ordered the drive-by-wire cruise control from Dakota Digital. No word yet on when it will ship. No hurry for now. I’ve had heated seats in all my builds. Pretty much a requirement for my better half. I’ve always used CobraHeat seat heaters but apparently no longer available. I found I could buy the same Corbeau branded heaters that came installed in my Coupe seats. So ordered those and have on hand. Mentioned before that I’m not planning A/C. But I would like to install a space heater. After some research, found a unit at Southern Rods and Parts that fits perfectly at the top of the RH footbox. Same location as the FF A/C-heater unit. It has four outlets. I’ll put two to the floor and two to the defrosters. It’s small enough that the heater valve can fit inside behind it. I didn’t know when I ordered it, but it’s a SiROCO branded piece. Same brand as the FF A/C-heater unit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220068&d=1760308953

Now for the main subject. With the engine in, time to address the transmission mount. This has the same setup as the Gen 3 Coupe. A frame mounted plate that can be installed in several orientations. Note no more A-frame like Roadsters from the past. Every build I’ve done required an additional spacer to get the transmission up at the right angle. This is no exception. I’ve never understood why this isn’t addressed in any of the manuals. Oh well. For this combination (Aluminator/Coyote + TKX) with the flange on the mount to the back as shown in the manual, the slots for the transmission mount bolts aren’t close. So I turned it around. I recall FF has an extender bracket for Coyote installations since they're around 1" shorter than other engines. But one didn't come with my kit and I could make it work this way.

After some work, determined that I needed the plate on the bottom and a 1” spacer. This results in the oil pan fully above the frame. It was below at the back with any less. I still have a little bit of the Tremec aluminum bell housing below just at the center. May try to trim it a little bit. But no way I could raise everything enough to clear that. The result is a 1.4 degree pinion angle (engine 1.2 degrees down to the back, diff .2 degrees down to the front) which is well within limits. It lines up nicely as shown in the picture.

With that, fabricated a 1" spacer. Some use washers or bushings. But my untrained mechanical sense says a solid spacer is better to spread the load across the bottom of the transmission and not just on the tabs sticking out of the case. So cut up a piece of 6061 and made a spacer. Everything is together now and I’m happy with how it turned out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220074&d=1760311074

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220066&d=1760308871

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220067&d=1760308891

One comment for those who freak out about the fuel and brake lines and harness having to go through the transmission tunnel. From the above picture, note the rotating driveshaft is well to the back of the tunnel so the exposure is somewhat limited. Plus they all go up in that general area. Add a driveshaft loop, which I'm planning, and seems reasonable to me. That combined with there really aren't any better options.

Next up I’m going to mod the rear harness and get it installed. I need to add wires for backup lights, neutral switch (going to parallel that with the clutch switch), trunk light, and a different connector for the fuel pump since my Holley pump doesn’t use the stock Mustang connector. And that’s not a bad thing. All my tins and other parts are at the powder coater and promised for next week. Should be ready to start installing some of that permanently.

[rponfick]

[brace for sarcasm....]
This is all very helpful to know...but with a MKV that has the cross braces and a booster...does this all mean I am sort of hosed?

If I were building one of the early frame Mk5's, which I am, I would definitely forgo the power brake option. In 4 builds, I have never felt it was necessary. Now, power steering in an entirely different issue.
Ralph

[MakoGT350]

Thanks rponfick - I was on the fence about it, but decided to include it because my Wife also plans to drive this car quite a bit and I wanted the pedal feel to be familiar...we shall see.

I will look for something small(er) for the battery and see how it goes.

Given the new mods - I wonder how the structure of the frame changed and whether I could remove/modify the x bracket to make my own removal battery tray...

[Ejzajac]

"After some research, found a unit at Southern Rods and Parts that fits perfectly at the top of the RH footbox. Same location as the FF A/C-heater unit. It has four outlets. I’ll put two to the floor and two to the defrosters." "So cut up a piece of 6061 and made a spacer."

My wife is getting excited for delivery soon, now looking over my shoulder especially at your heater. Purchased seat heaters, but more heat/defroster option is always good for her! Hopefully, you'll have more details on the plumbing. Probably, will also need a TKX/Coyote spacer. Your simple fab is a perfect, simplistic and solid solution.

Ed Z

[Ramjet]

Installed the Aluminator last week as already described. My thought was only as a mockup. But now I’m 99% sure I can do what I need to do with it staying. So I’m committed to that. For now. Finished up several things as a result. Steering shaft needs to be out of the way to install the engine. But now I have it back in and complete. Fuel supply AN6 SS line is cut to length, fitting installed, and all the clamps riveted. The Aluminator comes with a special (and somewhat expensive) oil filter. The standard full-size oil filters don’t typically fit in these cars. So I’ve been using the much smaller ones like the Mobil 1 M1-113. But this Ford Performance CM-6731-FL820 is in between those two sizes and fits. I’ll probably follow the recommendations and use them in the future as well. For grins, I got out the ceramic coated Gas-N headers that came with my engine for a sanity check. The RH side goes into place and looks OK for now. Of course won’t know for sure until the body is on and real pipe fitting begins. As for the LH side, because I also installed the alternator, I can’t get the header in. So when the time comes, will deal with that. Seem to remember this same thing with the Coupe.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220062&d=1760308831

Spent some money and ordered the drive-by-wire cruise control from Dakota Digital. No word yet on when it will ship. No hurry for now. I’ve had heated seats in all my builds. Pretty much a requirement for my better half. I’ve always used CobraHeat seat heaters but apparently no longer available. I found I could buy the same Corbeau branded heaters that came installed in my Coupe seats. So ordered those and have on hand. Mentioned before that I’m not planning A/C. But I would like to install a space heater. After some research, found a unit at Southern Rods and Parts that fits perfectly at the top of the RH footbox. Same location as the FF A/C-heater unit. It has four outlets. I’ll put two to the floor and two to the defrosters. It’s small enough that the heater valve can fit inside behind it. I didn’t know when I ordered it, but it’s a SiROCO branded piece. Same brand as the FF A/C-heater unit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220068&d=1760308953

Now for the main subject. With the engine in, time to address the transmission mount. This has the same setup as the Gen 3 Coupe. A frame mounted plate that can be installed in several orientations. Note no more A-frame like Roadsters from the past. Every build I’ve done required an additional spacer to get the transmission up at the right angle. This is no exception. I’ve never understood why this isn’t addressed in any of the manuals. Oh well. For this combination (Aluminator/Coyote + TKX) with the flange on the mount to the back as shown in the manual, the slots for the transmission mount bolts aren’t close. So I turned it around. I recall FF has an extender bracket for Coyote installations since they're around 1" shorter than other engines. But one didn't come with my kit and I could make it work this way.

After some work, determined that I needed the plate on the bottom and a 1” spacer. This results in the oil pan fully above the frame. It was below at the back with any less. I still have a little bit of the Tremec aluminum bell housing below just at the center. May try to trim it a little bit. But no way I could raise everything enough to clear that. The result is a 1.4 degree pinion angle (engine 1.2 degrees down to the back, diff .2 degrees down to the front) which is well within limits. It lines up nicely as shown in the picture.

With that, fabricated a 1" spacer. Some use washers or bushings. But my untrained mechanical sense says a solid spacer is better to spread the load across the bottom of the transmission and not just on the tabs sticking out of the case. So cut up a piece of 6061 and made a spacer. Everything is together now and I’m happy with how it turned out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220074&d=1760311074

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220066&d=1760308871

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220067&d=1760308891

One comment for those who freak out about the fuel and brake lines and harness having to go through the transmission tunnel. From the above picture, note the rotating driveshaft is well to the back of the tunnel so the exposure is somewhat limited. Plus they all go up in that general area. Add a driveshaft loop, which I'm planning, and seems reasonable to me. That combined with there really aren't any better options.

Next up I’m going to mod the rear harness and get it installed. I need to add wires for backup lights, neutral switch (going to parallel that with the clutch switch), trunk light, and a different connector for the fuel pump since my Holley pump doesn’t use the stock Mustang connector. And that’s not a bad thing. All my tins and other parts are at the powder coater and promised for next week. Should be ready to start installing some of that permanently.

Paul,

Your build is looking great so far! With the Aluminator, did you use the 3 spacers that go into the Energy Suspension coyote engine mounts? I noticed my kit didn’t have them and was curious if they were needed with this engine or would get the Moroso oil pan above the frame at all? Looks like I will need the same transmission spacer setup. Thank you for leading the way for me!! You’re a huge help for this first timer!

Eric
220089

[edwardb]

... Given the new mods - I wonder how the structure of the frame changed and whether I could remove/modify the x bracket to make my own removal battery tray...

This mod is new to me and I don't know anything more about it than what's in the latest build manual. Appears to attach to tabs on the frame. The tray itself is likely relatively robust since it has to support the weight of a battery. So perhaps there's some structural aspect allowing the x pieces to be removed. I'm not a frame cutter. I consider every piece to be there for a reason. You'll need to talk to FF to see if you could do something to make this mod to your existing frame.

For this build I'm using the same battery and tray as in my Gen 3 Coupe sitting on the X frame. I've had to change the battery once, and takes a little work because it has to come out the top. Mainly just taking out the cold air intake. Since ideally a battery should last at least a few years, not a big deal IMO. Although dropping out the bottom is a nice change.

With that, back to the build thread.


Paul,

Your build is looking great so far! With the Aluminator, did you use the 3 spacers that go into the Energy Suspension coyote engine mounts? I noticed my kit didn’t have them and was curious if they were needed with this engine or would get the Moroso oil pan above the frame at all? Looks like I will need the same transmission spacer setup. Thank you for leading the way for me!! You’re a huge help for this first timer!

Eric


Thanks and you're welcome. Appreciate the feedback. Yes, I have the motor mount spacers installed. They come with the Coyote installation kit and are required for a Coyote build for several reasons.


"After some research, found a unit at Southern Rods and Parts that fits perfectly at the top of the RH footbox. Same location as the FF A/C-heater unit. It has four outlets. I’ll put two to the floor and two to the defrosters." "So cut up a piece of 6061 and made a spacer."

My wife is getting excited for delivery soon, now looking over my shoulder especially at your heater. Purchased seat heaters, but more heat/defroster option is always good for her! Hopefully, you'll have more details on the plumbing. Probably, will also need a TKX/Coyote spacer. Your simple fab is a perfect, simplistic and solid solution.

Ed Z

The routing of the coolant lines to the heater should be very straightforward. The challenge will be the routing of the duct lines behind the dash. I won't have any details on this until I start on the dash, gauges, harness, etc. Then will see what I can fit and where. Stay tuned.

[edwardb]

I finished reworking the RF rear harness and today have it installed in the chassis. Yesterday I picked up all my powder coated parts so now I’m ready to cover everything up. Isn’t that how it works? We found a color that’s a decent match to the anodized panels. Called Black Magic. I don't know the brand.

For the rear harness, I took all the convolute off and reconfigured the branches at the end to more closely match the layout of the Mk5 including getting around the trunk box. Also added wires for a trunk light, backup light, and neutral switch. Once this was done, put the convolute back on and replaced pieces as needed. Then I wrapped the large section with American Autowire R0067108 harness tape. Same as I’ve done on previous builds. This is stretchy 1.25” wire vinyl without adhesive. It sticks to itself when pulled tight. Keeps out moisture and adds a bit of protection. Plus just looks better. Note this is the same stuff Ford Performance wraps the Coyote control pack harness with. I’ll put it on the front harness too. I routed the rear harness on the right-hand side of the transmission tunnel. Had to take a diversion around the e-brake but there was enough room. Note how much length there is left over in the dash area. I’ll probably cut most of that off and hard wire to the main harness once I determine the overall layout eliminating the connectors. This saves space. But not for everyone so I’m not necessarily recommending. On the Coupe, I eliminated all but the instrument panel connectors.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220309&d=1760672358

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220311&d=1760672358

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220310&d=1760672358

I’ve mentioned before that cruise control is in my build plan. I installed an LS based drive by wire (DBW) setup in the truck build and it worked great. No magnets on the driveshaft, no servo motor pulling a throttle cable, etc. Fairly recently, Dakota Digital released a similar DBW version for Ford and Mopar. These systems electronically simulate pushing the already installed DBW accelerator pedal. I ordered the VCM-105 system last week and today it arrived. Includes a 32 page manual I still need to digest but looks good. One of the choices with these is what controls you want. I opted for their HND-1 that puts the controls on the end of the turn signal stalk which I prefer. Planning to cut off the kit supplied turn signal stalk and attach. Looks like that will work. Many put the controls down on the dash or even hide them. Their HND-2. This is what came in the box:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220312&d=1760672358

Down to just a few more days to work then we’re off on our annual sojourn to the west coast to visit family. This Saturday is our last club cruise. Might be the last time out for the season since it will be into November when we get back.

[Ramjet]

Hi Paul,

As always, looks great! I am interested in your trunk light, backup light and neutral switch setup, as I mostly likely will need a backup light for state inspection. If you could share any specific parts used that you know have worked? Also are you running any additional wires/relays for the fuel pump or just tapping into the RF harness in the rear. I wasn’t sure if the relay/fuse/wires were large enough? I thought I read 30amp, I could be wrong?
Enjoy your vacation! I’m sure it’s well deserved.

Eric

[edwardb]

Hi Paul,

As always, looks great! I am interested in your trunk light, backup light and neutral switch setup, as I mostly likely will need a backup light for state inspection. If you could share any specific parts used that you know have worked? Also are you running any additional wires/relays for the fuel pump or just tapping into the RF harness in the rear. I wasn’t sure if the relay/fuse/wires were large enough? I thought I read 30amp, I could be wrong?
Enjoy your vacation! I’m sure it’s well deserved.

Eric

Thanks. I'm getting the wires in place based on my build plan but some details are pending. Here's what I can say right now:

Backup light: There is a switch on the TKX that's normally open (NO) but closes (NC) when it's in reverse. I ran two wires. One from the dash to the switch. Another from the switch to the rear light area. I'll determine a +12V ignition controlled source and attach at the dash end. At the back, will go to the +12V terminal of the backup light. The other side to ground. I haven't picked out the fixture yet. It will be LED like everything else and low current draw. There are multiple examples on the forum. Research pending. Probably just one in the middle down low.

Trunk light: I just ran a single line from the dash to the same harness group as the license plate light feed. At the trunk hinge area, I'll split that wire out to power a trunk light. At the dash, I'll determine a +12V battery (always on) source and have a switch on the trunk hinge. I used a magnetic switch on my 20th Anniversary build. Worked great. May just use a plain pin switch. For lighting, probably a strip of LED's on the underside of the body. I want the trunk to be lit every time it's opened without having anything else on.

Neutral switch: There is a switch on the TKX that's normally open (NO) but closes (NC) when it's in neutral. I ran two wires wire from the dash. One to each side of the switch. I'm going to piggy back these onto the Coyote clutch switch. So the car can be started in the usual way -- with the clutch depressed (same as my Coupe) -- but also if the transmission is in neutral. Never done this before, but I think it would be handy to be able to reach in to start it without having to climb in and push the clutch pedal. Either would work, while still keeping things safe.

Fuel pump: Holley says the pump I'm using draws 16.9 amps at 60 PSI and 13.4 volts. Not 30 amps. The RF circuit is 15 amps. So I'm assuming the wiring is suitable for that at least. I haven't checked the actual gauge but by eye it's the same gauge as the wire coming out of the Holley pump. Actually I'll be wiring the Coyote (Aluminator) to power the fuel pump from the Ford Performance PDB, which is rated at 40 amps. I've used this same setup multiple times and so has almost every other Coyote builder.

Thanks for the well wishes for our trip. We have family in Idaho and Oregon. About 6 hours apart. Looking forward to it as always. Hoping for no airline delays. :eek:

[Homer]

Spent some money and ordered the drive-by-wire cruise control from Dakota Digital. No word yet on when it will ship. No hurry for now. I’ve had heated seats in all my builds. Pretty much a requirement for my better half. I’ve always used CobraHeat seat heaters but apparently no longer available. I found I could buy the same Corbeau branded heaters that came installed in my Coupe seats. So ordered those and have on hand. Mentioned before that I’m not planning A/C. But I would like to install a space heater. After some research, found a unit at Southern Rods and Parts that fits perfectly at the top of the RH footbox. Same location as the FF A/C-heater unit. It has four outlets. I’ll put two to the floor and two to the defrosters. It’s small enough that the heater valve can fit inside behind it. I didn’t know when I ordered it, but it’s a SiROCO branded piece. Same brand as the FF A/C-heater unit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220068&d=1760308953



Hi Paul, nice find on the heater unit and I like the 4 outputs. I did order the FFR A/C but it has been backordered for several months now and I'm thinking of canceling and just going with a heater/defrost unit. I initially thought of the A/C in case I get the hard top down the road but I'm sure I can live without it. Do you know if that heater unit allows the coolant to circulate without the heater turned on? Or will you have to install an H pipe to allow the flow to continue without turning it on?

I will be curious what you come up with for the expansion tank mount, I have some ideas but nothing concrete yet. When I had the body on, it looked like it would fit where the brake booster would be installed but sitting on top of the frame in that area. Your build is looking great!

[edwardb]

Hi Paul, nice find on the heater unit and I like the 4 outputs. I did order the FFR A/C but it has been backordered for several months now and I'm thinking of canceling and just going with a heater/defrost unit. I initially thought of the A/C in case I get the hard top down the road but I'm sure I can live without it. Do you know if that heater unit allows the coolant to circulate without the heater turned on? Or will you have to install an H pipe to allow the flow to continue without turning it on?

I will be curious what you come up with for the expansion tank mount, I have some ideas but nothing concrete yet. When I had the body on, it looked like it would fit where the brake booster would be installed but sitting on top of the frame in that area. Your build is looking great!

That heater unit doesn't have a coolant valve. An external valve is required. My current plan is this one: https://www.oldairproducts.com/product/heater-valve-kit-50-1555. Electronically controlled (versus a cable like some) and full bypass as required by a Coyote. This afternoon I was looking at the layout of the coolant expansion tank and the rather large cold air intake required by the Aluminator. Plus the routing of the upper radiator hose. Going to be interesting. There's about 2" less room front to back compared to my Coupe where I did manage to get everything to fit. With the hood hinges on today, I mocked up the hood height for a sanity check to confirm that the Cobra Jet intake would fit under the hood. Looks like it will but not by a lot. Won't be able to tell too much more or make any final decisions until dropping the body on. Which I will do after installing all the aluminum panels.

[edwardb]

Short update. Today I started on the aluminum panels just back from powder coat before stopping for Sunday football watching. Completed the trunk floor and cockpit back wall. I’ll get more done this week before we leave for a couple weeks. Nothing too earthshaking to report. I’m using the normal GE silicone from Home Depot. Black in this case. I try to keep things as neat as possible meaning not having it squeeze all over the place and then spending untold time trying to get it cleaned up. I use a Milwaukee M12 Caulk/Adhesive Gun. The right size hole in the tip of the sealant and slow (about 1.5) setting on the gun lays down a continuous bead that’s enough to cover but not squeeze out everywhere. I've seen several mentions of using Clorox wipes for clean-up. So gave them a try. Work OK. But the Goo Gone Spay Gel I’ve used in the past still works the best for me.

I have another example of my airplane build experience spilling into this build. The Sling TSI build used pulled rivets. By my count, somewhere in the 8,000 - 9,000 range. Sling provides very high-quality German GESIPA multi-range blind rivets in multiple sizes. I had quite a few left over, but especially a large bag of 3.2mm (1/8”) countersunk rivets. These rivets set consistently and create a perfect mushroom shape on the blind end. Although likely not necessary, have to believe they’re stronger. Just too nice to pass up. I used the kit provided black rivets for the anodized panels where the rivet heads are exposed. But for everywhere else, I’ve been using these. I use a 120 degree countersink tool (also from the airplane build) to make small countersinks before setting. I’m not being real particular about getting them perfectly flush. They’re still lower than a traditional dome head rivet and will get buried with insulation and carpet. Easy to pull with the Milwaukee M12 Rivet Tool.

Now that I have most of the parts I'm going to use and everything is mostly firmed up, I've started working on my electrical plan. I create a spreadsheet with all the required connections and details. Same as I've done in the past so not starting from scratch. Will use that as a roadmap once the wiring begins.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220418&d=1760930850

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220419&d=1760930850

[PMD24]

Hi Paul, What are you planning to use for a backup light? I'm looking for options for a single oval with chrome bezel, surface mount. Haven't been able to find anything I like yet. In NY it has to be DOT approved with the correct SAE application.

Thanks,

Pat

[edwardb]

Hi Paul, What are you planning to use for a backup light? I'm looking for options for a single oval with chrome bezel, surface mount. Haven't been able to find anything I like yet. In NY it has to be DOT approved with the correct SAE application.

Thanks,

Pat

I haven't picked one out yet. There are several threads with pictures on the forum. I used a Maxxima 14 LED M42206 on my truck build. Amazon for around $25. It's DOT approved but I'm thinking something a little more stealthy on this build. MI registration doesn't check lights for DOT. They actually don't even require a backup light but I prefer to have one.

[PMD24]

I haven't picked one out yet. There are several threads with pictures on the forum. I used a Maxxima 14 LED M42206 on my truck build. Amazon for around $25. It's DOT approved but I'm thinking something a little more stealthy on this build. MI registration doesn't check lights for DOT. They actually don't even require a backup light but I prefer to have one.

Thanks. I reviewed both forum threads and didn't find anything other than the very expensive Mini Cooper. I did find that Maxxima, and one other about the same size. Was hoping for something in the 4-5" range. I'll keep looking and if I find something viable, will post it to the forum.

Pat

[Ramjet]

I’ve been searching the forums as well. What are your thoughts on the license plate led reverse light setups? Not sure it’s DOT legal? Looks like the MK5 could fit a chrome frame without modifications. I was looking at something like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/upd-36541
220481

[edwardb]

I’ve been searching the forums as well. What are your thoughts on the license plate led reverse light setups? Not sure it’s DOT legal? Looks like the MK5 could fit a chrome frame without modifications. I was looking at something like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/upd-36541

Interesting. That would be another approach. Not for me but go for it you like it. Whether it's DOT legal or not wouldn't matter in Michigan. But I'm committed to the lower body location somewhere.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Hi Paul, What are you planning to use for a backup light? I'm looking for options for a single oval with chrome bezel, surface mount. Haven't been able to find anything I like yet. In NY it has to be DOT approved with the correct SAE application.

Thanks,

Pat

Stepping into Paul's thread again... Pat, I've used the Mini reverse lamp on 4 or 5 cars now, at least two of them were for New York owners.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220507&d=1747242218

No inspection issues about DOT or SAE compliance since it's an OEM piece. I guess it depends on your definition of "very expensive" but as I recall the lamp runs about $120 plus another $20 or thereabouts for the pigtail. If you go this route and plan to have stripes I recommend that you lay out the stripes before cutting out the body (I had one owner install it before bringing me the car and I had to fill the hole and relocate it because it was waaaaay off).

Good luck!

Jeff

220507

[Blitzboy54]

Hi Paul, What are you planning to use for a backup light? I'm looking for options for a single oval with chrome bezel, surface mount. Haven't been able to find anything I like yet. In NY it has to be DOT approved with the correct SAE application.

Thanks,

Pat

I have registered 2 roadsters in NY. I spent a grand total of $10 on each. Reach out if you have any questions.

[PMD24]

Stepping into Paul's thread again... Pat, I've used the Mini reverse lamp on 4 or 5 cars now, at least two of them were for New York owners.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220507&d=1747242218

No inspection issues about DOT or SAE compliance since it's an OEM piece. I guess it depends on your definition of "very expensive" but as I recall the lamp runs about $120 plus another $20 or thereabouts for the pigtail. If you go this route and plan to have stripes I recommend that you lay out the stripes before cutting out the body (I had one owner install it before bringing me the car and I had to fill the hole and relocate it because it was waaaaay off).

Good luck!

Jeff

220507

Thanks Jeff, that's the look I want and will probably end up with the mini. No stripe planned at this time but thank you for the warning. I'll be in touch if I change my mind on stripes.

Paul, apologies for hijacking your thread with my reverse light search.

Pat

[edwardb]

Paul, apologies for hijacking your thread with my reverse light search.

Pat

No worries. Good discussion and will be helpful when I get around to deciding what I'm going to do.

[edwardb]

Finished the cockpit floor panels, the trunk box, and the trunk back. All relatively straightforward. For the floors, I recommend only putting the sealant on the horizontal surfaces first. Then drop the floor into place and rivet the bottom. Then pull the vertical surface back at the transmission tunnel and add sealant and rivet as a second step. It takes some maneuvering to get the floors into place and in the process would be real easy to smear the sealant on the transmission tunnel and make for lots of unnecessary cleanup. In the picture you can see some decidedly non-stock water softener salt bags. I didn’t want to put rivets through the seat pan and have the tails sticking out underneath. So for that area, I applied 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive Sealant (amazing stuff, just takes at least several days to cure) and I’m using the 50# bags and scraps of wood the size of the pan while it cures. Once again, probably not necessary but what I chose to do.

For the trunk box, I assembled it away from the chassis. Sealant and rivets along the bottom. Sealant and only Clecos on the corners. I let it cure overnight, took out the corner Clecos, dropped into place, and then riveted the perimeter and corners. It’s a tight fit, so won’t go through the hole in the trunk floor with either Clecos or rivets on the corners. Then added the trunk back piece. This requires temporarily removing the RH tank bolt so it’s necessary to support the tank while installing. One minor glitch. The supplied fuel tank strap patch panel doesn’t fit the obviously different Mk5 configuration. The picture in the build manual isn’t of the Mk5. No big deal. I’ll make a piece that fits.

I couldn’t help myself. I clamped the trunk side panels in place and it’s really starting to look like a complete chassis. I’m out of time to mount them permanently. We’re off for two weeks. They’ll be there when I get back. Only a handful of small pieces left to mount. Once those are done, I’m going to drop the body on the chassis and get serious about how everything is going lay out in the engine compartment, behind the dash, dash location, seat height, wiring routing, etc. Feel good about where I'm at after four months with everything else that's been going on.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220566&d=1761185087

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220567&d=1761185087

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220569&d=1761185087

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220570&d=1761185087

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220568&d=1761185087

[PNWTim]

Looks great Paul. You're making excellent progress. Enjoy Oregon - weather's great until Saturday and then a little wet after that.

[Ramjet]

You’re making amazing progress Paul and looks great!!!

Your panels look to good to cover with carpet! lol.
On your floor, are you securing the front slope edge of the aluminum pan in the foot box area at all? I know you don’t want exposed rivets from underneath, or is there adhesive sealant on the front edge too?

Eric

[Blitzboy54]

Looks great Paul. You're making excellent progress. Enjoy Oregon - weather's great until Saturday and then a little wet after that.

Until June

[edwardb]

You’re making amazing progress Paul and looks great!!!

Your panels look to good to cover with carpet! lol.

On your floor, are you securing the front slope edge of the aluminum pan in the foot box area at all? I know you don’t want exposed rivets from underneath, or is there adhesive sealant on the front edge too?

Eric

Thanks. You're right, some of the PC will get covered with insulation and carpet. Worth it though because everywhere it's not covered is finished and uniform. I've done every build that way.

You're right, I didn't mention about the front edge. I treated the same as the seat pans. I put a large bead of the same 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive Sealant at that location before dropping the floor in. I put rivets every couple inches into the frame rail a couple inches behind the slope and I knew from my trial fit that the angle was pushed hard against the floor. Should be solid.

[The Stig]

Good morning Paul,

I find myself looking forward to your posts. The level of detail and craftsmanship that you demonstrate in your build is absolutely next level and inspiring to me. The fact that you have built several cars, and still go through the process of documenting every step to give background to your thoughts about the build and decisions made to resolve issues, is pretty much what the forum has always been about. It's nice to see that there are still people like you, Eric Kleiner, Erik Treves, PAPA, and many others who are willing to make that extra effort to show the rest here that these cars can be built the way YOU want to build them and with excellent results.

I learned quite a bit about the build process when I built my GTM. The main thing being that "It takes a village".

Your posts will certainly be great reference for me when I pull the trigger on my own Mk-5.

Congrats on a great build, and I can't wait to see the completed project. I have no doubt that it will be spectacular.

Mike B

[edwardb]

Good morning Paul,

I find myself looking forward to your posts. The level of detail and craftsmanship that you demonstrate in your build is absolutely next level and inspiring to me. The fact that you have built several cars, and still go through the process of documenting every step to give background to your thoughts about the build and decisions made to resolve issues, is pretty much what the forum has always been about. It's nice to see that there are still people like you, Eric Kleiner, Erik Treves, PAPA, and many others who are willing to make that extra effort to show the rest here that these cars can be built the way YOU want to build them and with excellent results.

I learned quite a bit about the build process when I built my GTM. The main thing being that "It takes a village".

Your posts will certainly be great reference for me when I pull the trigger on my own Mk-5.

Congrats on a great build, and I can't wait to see the completed project. I have no doubt that it will be spectacular.

Mike B

Mike -- Thanks for your very generous comments. I really do enjoy doing these build threads and look forward to hearing back how they helped (or not...) other builders. I haven't forgotten the feelings I had when I brough my first build home in 2009 with minimal knowledge and zero experience and how much the Factory Five community helped. It's been fun learning as I've gone through the various builds and then sharing. I sometimes think I'm providing too much detail and boring the masses. But comments like this keep me going. The place that I bought my first build -- a partially complete Mk3 -- had a couple GTM's in process. Impressive. Congratulations on yours. Come on into the Mk5 pool. Thanks again.

[460.465USMC]

Times two on what Mike B said above. I couldn't have said it better myself. Not to mention the number of PMs I've sent to Paul over the years. All my questions answered patiently. Many of which have likely been asked many times before.

Enjoy your time away, sir!

[wheelindex]

Great write up on the MK5 install, I just started mine last month, but have been creeping along due to work. Your pics and references are spot on.

[toadster]

Hey Paul - loving the build, I really like your countersunk rivet trick! as previously commented, it's almost too nice to cover up with carpet!

Can't wait to see that engine fire up!
-Todd

[edwardb]

We’re back after great family visits in Idaho and Oregon. Travel misery on the way home with a mechanical delay, connecting flight moved to the next day, unplanned overnight in Chicago, etc. That’s leaving out the bad parts which I’d just as soon forget. I used to travel for my job. Don't miss it a bit. We’ve been home about a week and I’m finally getting some quality time back on the build. First snow over the weekend. Maybe the Coupe is done for the season, but we’ll see.

I’ve completed all the panels that I’m going to install for now. I’m leaving these off: Transmission tunnel U-joint cover, front corners, front top cover, tunnel top; left and right footbox sides and tops, door sills, splash guards, and radiator aluminum. Sounds like a long list. But some will be removeable (TBD) and some don’t go on until the body is in place. The main point for now is to leave the transmission tunnel and footboxes open for access during the build.

I installed all the panels using black GE silicone from HD and the FF recommended rivet spacing. FF provided black rivets for the black anodized panels where visible. For the balance I used Gesipa rivets mentioned previously. Pulled with my Milwaukee rivet gun. Love that thing. All relatively straightforward and anyone who builds these kits knows all too well.

Two things of possible interest. There’s often a discussion about which way to pull the rivets where there will be insulation and carpet added. Primarily the cockpit and trunk. Putting the rivet head on the inside gives the flattest surface. But then the sometimes ugly crushed end of the rivet is visible from the outside. Putting the rivet the other way looks better from the outside. But then leaves pretty large bumps on the inside. What I’ve done on the last few builds is put the rivet head on the inside and then use rivet backing plates on the outside. This accomplished two things. Although not technically necessary, they’re arguably a bit stronger. But IMO the appearance is better as the rivet crushes and forms a nice mushroom shape on the backing plate. Especially these Gesipa rivets. Since the panels in this case are black, I painted the backing plates black and then will go back and touch up the rivet ends. Way too OCD? Probably. Don’t judge me. :p

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221430&d=1762985012

Something else I did was add insulation to the under door aluminum on the outside. This frame design is exactly the same as the Gen 3 Coupe. When I first drove my Coupe, I could feel a slight vibration through the under door aluminum I assumed from the side pipes. Plus maybe some added sound. It wasn’t easy since the build was complete, but I stuffed some insulation in that area (between the body and the under door frame/aluminum) and it seemed to help. I’ve suggested to other builders to put insulation in there during their Coupe builds while it's open. Can’t hurt. Now with the Mk5 Roadster having the same design, decided to follow my own advice. The pipes aren’t as close with the Roadster, but it’s free open space so why not. I bought a piece of Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro for the Coupe and had enough left over to use here.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221424&d=1762984972

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221425&d=1762984972

Rest of the installation is pretty normal. One side comment. At first the trunk side panels didn't fit very well. Bulging, wavey, etc. But then figured out the bend was too much. The one just above the shocks. Reduced the angles about half and fit was decent. Something to watch for.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221426&d=1762984972

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221429&d=1762985012

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221431&d=1762985012

[edwardb]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221427&d=1762984972

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221428&d=1762984972

Different topic. Since I’m using the Holley pump, the usual Ford electrical connection doesn’t play. Today I installed a 2-Pin Metri-Pack weather proof connector. From Aptiv (formerly Delphi) with terminals that are much larger but crimp similar to the their Weatherpak connectors that we use in these builds. Rated for 46 amps. Should be more than enough. Very briefly put +12V on the pump pins on the rear harness connector that's now up in the dash area. Pump runs. No smoke.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221432&d=1762985060

Next up I’m going to rough in the front harness and then drop the body on. With that, figure out where to place various under hood parts, Coyote control pack, heater, dash layout, seats, etc.

[Aleinsteingenius]

I am also going with a Holley pump so I will use that same connector. Thanks!

[lewma]

Different topic. Since I’m using the Holley pump, the usual Ford electrical connection doesn’t play. Today I installed a 2-Pin Metri-Pack weather proof connector. From Aptiv (formerly Delphi) with terminals that crimp much like their Weatherpak connectors that we use in these builds. Except this is rated for 46 amps. Should be more than enough. Very briefly put +12V on the pump pins on the rear harness connector that's now up in the dash area. Pump runs. No smoke.



Paul

Keep an eye on that connector after the pump has been running for a while. I used muui connectors and they began to melt. Just make sure that the 46amp rating holds on your connector and crimps.

Do you know if the fuel pump wires in the harness are large enough to handle the current from the pump ?

[RobHartley]

My MK5 Canadian kit is nearing completion at FFR (I've import docs to Transport Canada), and every day I scan the forum soaking up information like a sponge, that said there is always an anticipation for another "Paul post", I learn something new everyday! Cheers Paul, awesome build!

[edwardb]

Paul

Keep an eye on that connector after the pump has been running for a while. I used muui connectors and they began to melt. Just make sure that the 46amp rating holds on your connector and crimps.

Do you know if the fuel pump wires in the harness are large enough to handle the current from the pump ?

Thanks for your post. I assume you mean MUYI? I see them all over Amazon. Inexpensive and some mixed reviews. Lots of similar brands on Amazon (and elsewhere) with almost too good to be true pricing. IMO might be fine for some applications. But for a car build, I stick with name brands I know and have experience with. No offense. That's just my preference. Although they do cost more, Aptiv parts are widely used and have an excellent reputation.

According to Holley, this pump draws 16.9 amps at 13.5 volts and 60 PSI, which supports up to 700 horsepower. Well with in the limits of the circuit, 14 gauge wire in both the pump and harness, and the connector. The crimps are solid. It will be fine.

[lewma]

According to Holley, this pump draws 16.9 amps at 13.5 volts and 60 PSI, which supports up to 700 horsepower. Well with in the limits of the circuit, 14 gauge wire in both the pump and harness, and the connector. The crimps are solid. It will be fine.

Sounds good. Just watch that 14awg wire with 17 amps constant. I have a Holley 12-132 with similar specs, 17amps continuous but a whole lot more on startup.

[RogerRoger88]

Perfect timing on the post about the connector you are using for the Holley pump. I was beginning to do research on the best way to connect. Now I know.

[edwardb]

Fun time driving the Coupe up to the Build School on Saturday. The interview with the FF team caught me a little off guard (not my thing) but I enjoyed seeing everyone and checking out the Mk5 build class. Plus free lunch and hat. Can't beat that! Filled up on the way home and that's really it for the season. Started to rain about 5 minutes after I pulled into the garage. Cold weather ahead is pretty consistent now.

Yesterday my build buddy Greg helped me drop the body onto the partially finished Mk5 chassis for the first time. Not too hard with two people. Four would be easier to spread the sides as it’s going down. No worries now but definitely once it’s painted. Spent the time since checking and planning for what needs to be added.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221748&d=1763504501

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221749&d=1763504501

My very first impression was how much the top of the footboxes are covered.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221747&d=1763504501

Not bad. Just different. The covers need to be removable. For the pedal box on the LH side and HVAC (if installed) on the RH side. Still reachable under the body overhang for fasteners. But the opening is relatively small past the body. I’m installing a heater only, so it’s somewhat small. But I’m going to make sure I fasten so it can drop out the bottom inside the cockpit. For those installing the FF heat-A/C this is especially important I think.

Another observation is that without the 3/4" tubes around the hood opening, like all previous versions, the body does have a little flex in that area. The Mk5 has new braces by the front hinges. I don’t have them installed yet. That will make a difference, but I don’t expect completely. I don’t think it’s a problem. Just different.

I checked the fit of the hood, trunk lid, and doors. All look decent. They will require some trimming. But not that much. Speaking of the hood, one of my big concerns was whether Cobra Jet intake on my Aluminator was going to fit under the hood. I have the front resting on the quick jacks, and a piece of bulb seal on the firewall. So the body and hood are close to finish height. The bad news? The hood rocks on the front of the intake. Probably about 1/4" interference. The good news? Right in the center of the hood scoop. I was planning a hood scoop with the standard hood cutout. So, I’ll be OK. For those that omit the hood scoop or the cutout, this setup wouldn’t work. Later Mustangs had a lower profile CJ intake. That was going to be my fallback plan. But I’m going to leave things as is.

Another one of my big goals for this initial fitment was to figure out if I could fit the Moroso expansion tank like I’ve done on my previous Coyote builds and use the standard Ford OE plumbing. Or a suitable tank alternative, e.g. a different brand, the 24-25 tank is slightly different, etc. I made a cardboard mockup of the Moroso tank. It’s a no-go. Same for the different size/shape 24-25 tank. The big issue is the cold air intake. They take up a lot of space and especially in this case with the wide Cobra Jet throttle body. Also the distance between the front of the engine and the frame cross member is 2-3” less than the Coupe where I was able to fit the Moroso tank. There’s always the option to use a smaller tank that’s not made for this and adapt. Like PNWTim is doing with his Coupe build. But, at this moment, I think I’m going to revert to a standard overflow tank setup and use the FF supplied tank. It fits. That’s not an easy decision, and I’ve been promoting and talking up the OE setup forever. But I don’t think I have a choice. What I’m thinking of doing though is using parts from Power by the Hour that seem to be better than just blocking off unused ports with rubber caps. The front facing connection on the LH heater port would be eliminated. A bleed screw would be placed in the thermostat housing and the usual T-filler in the upper radiator hose. This would make it similar to the setup I used on my Truck LS3 build. Which worked OK once I bled and filled the cooling system with a vacuum filler. More details to work out. But that’s the direction I’m headed.

Other points without so much verbiage. You can thank me later.


Confirmed the Tilton 3-chamber brake/clutch reservoir is the option I’m going to use and determined the location.
Confirmed the location of the battery tray. With it all the way back against the chassis cross member, I can lift the battery (Odyssey 925) out the top with the cold air intake removed. Same as the Coupe. Note that’s without the optional PB vacuum unit, which I’m not using.
Confirmed I’m going to mount the Coyote PCM on top of the frame just ahead of the RH footbox cover. All the cables reach there without drama and it’s mostly under the body.
I’ll mount the Coyote PDB (Power Distribution Box) centered behind the engine on the tube below the firewall. Lots of room. Partly because the Aluminator doesn’t have IMRC (Intake Manifold Runner Controls) and the related vacuum motors on the back of the intake.
All four splash guards (aka elephant ears) are going to require some tweaking. Not major but nothing new.
The build manual doesn’t say anything about bulb seal across the rear cockpit wall or the corners. A YouTube video of FF’s prototype clearly shows bulb seal all the way across. I put a scrap piece on the back wall and like previous Mk’s it's not a good fit. I will put bulb seal only on the corners as in the past.
I confirmed the location of the dash to the dash hoop. There’s about 1/4" of clearance between the dash hoop and the underside of the body. Should be easy enough.
I also noted there is the “slice” opening at the front of the rear wheel wells. Where the chassis is straight and the body is curved. It appears the sill piece may block this opening from the cockpit. But it’s still open. I will fab some fill pieces. Also like previous builds. Looks worse in the picture because the body isn’t pulled all the way in. But still there.
Work to do to get the seats at the right height and the driver side slider installed. In the picture above, the seat is sitting flat on the floor. Note how low it is.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221745&d=1763504501

One last detail. Before I dropped the body on, I decided how I’m going to route the front harness. Made a hole in the outside of the LH footbox and will start there. The harness has a pre-installed grommet. But it’s big enough to allow the connectors to pass through. I didn’t want to drill that big of a hole. Plus, I will likely remove the connectors and hard wire. I did this on the Coupe build for several of the harness branches. Saves space plus you can customize the length. So I de-pinned the connectors and passed through the smaller hole. In the process, found what I consider a poor crimp on the cooling fan wire. Basically the wire gauge is too big for the terminal. So the crimp is kind of in the middle of the conductors and hanging on for dear life. Probably wouldn’t have come loose, but not good. It will get resolved.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221753&d=1763507629

OK, that’s more than enough. In addition to ordering parts to make what I’ve listed here happen, I’m going to search for what I need to build the cold air intake. I’ve got some decisions to make on how it will be oriented plus find an adapter for the oval CJ intake that works.

[JayOH]

Two things of possible interest. There’s often a discussion about which way to pull the rivets where there will be insulation and carpet added. Primarily the cockpit and trunk. Putting the rivet head on the inside gives the flattest surface. But then the sometimes ugly crushed end of the rivet is visible from the outside. Putting the rivet the other way looks better from the outside. But then leaves pretty large bumps on the inside. What I’ve done on the last few builds is put the rivet head on the inside and then use rivet backing plates on the outside. This accomplished two things. Although not technically necessary, they’re arguably a bit stronger. But IMO the appearance is better as the rivet crushes and forms a nice mushroom shape on the backing plate. Especially these Gesipa rivets. Since the panels in this case are black, I painted the backing plates black and then will go back and touch up the rivet ends. Way too OCD? Probably. Don’t judge me. :p

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221430&d=1762985012

Wow Paul, your attention to detail is incredible and your level of OCD seems to match up well with mine. I find myself always spending a little bit more every time I read one of your build threads.

[Jeff Kleiner]

...The build manual doesn’t say anything about bulb seal across the rear cockpit wall or the corners. A YouTube video of FF’s prototype clearly shows bulb seal all the way across. I put a scrap piece on the back wall and like previous Mk’s it's not a good fit. I will put bulb seal only on the corners as in the past.

Looking great Paul!

FWIW, I tried it both ways and found that I had a better fit and more solid rear cowl with bulb seal spanning all the way across (contrary to what we're used to with the earlier roadsters).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221880&d=1763740236

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221879&d=1763740210

Jeff

221879
221880

[Ramjet]

Paul,

Have you seen the VMP Mustang S550 coolant degas tank? They made their kit smaller to work with the OE coyote engine setup.
I wonder if this would be a suitable replacement tank?

https://www.vmpperformance.com/VMP-Mustang-S550-engine-coolant-degas-bottle-kit

Eric
222052

[edwardb]

Paul,

Have you seen the VMP Mustang S550 coolant degas tank? They made their kit smaller to work with the OE coyote engine setup.
I wonder if this would be a suitable replacement tank?

https://www.vmpperformance.com/VMP-Mustang-S550-engine-coolant-degas-bottle-kit

Eric

No, I haven't seen that one. I'll check it out. Thanks for sending!!!

[Ramjet]

At 4” deep, 9” wide, my thought was this may fit in the front center with a custom bracket attached to the mounting location where the FFR brake booster tank would go between the angled frame tubes? Like you not sure how far the air intake will reach in front of the Aluminator?

[edwardb]

At 4” deep, 9” wide, my thought was this may fit in the front center with a custom bracket attached to the mounting location where the FFR brake booster tank would go between the angled frame tubes? Like you not sure how far the air intake will reach in front of the Aluminator?

I'm in the process of sorting out the air intake. Getting close. If it works like I hope, there will be room. Thanks again.

[brianschear]

I'm in the process of sorting out the air intake. Getting close. If it works like I hope, there will be room. Thanks again.

Has anyone found a solution for the 5.2 Aluminator intake? Looking at the Steeda elbow to connect to the intake that came with the coyote install kit.

[UKSNAKE]

Thanks. You're right, some of the PC will get covered with insulation and carpet. Worth it though because everywhere it's not covered is finished and uniform. I've done every build that way.

You're right, I didn't mention about the front edge. I treated the same as the seat pans. I put a large bead of the same 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive Sealant at that location before dropping the floor in. I put rivets every couple inches into the frame rail a couple inches behind the slope and I knew from my trial fit that the angle was pushed hard against the floor. Should be solid.

Is the no rivets in that area going down thru the floor a design/ cosmetic thing or is there a functional issue with it? Im about to instal those panels and assumed had to drill and rivet. Thanks

[edwardb]

Is the no rivets in that area going down thru the floor a design/ cosmetic thing or is there a functional issue with it? Im about to instal those panels and assumed had to drill and rivet. Thanks

Strictly a personal preference because I didn't want the rivet tails showing on the underside of the chassis. Especially the seat pans because they're at the lowest point underneath. With the adhesive I used plus once the seats and/or seat tracks are bolted in, the rivets don't add anything.

[edwardb]

Has anyone found a solution for the 5.2 Aluminator intake? Looking at the Steeda elbow to connect to the intake that came with the coyote install kit.

From you other posts, looks like you're building a Coupe? It has more room than this Roadster build so you will have a few more options. I've learned a 5" diameter silicone tube fits perfectly on the Cobra Jet intake on my 5.2 Aluminator. As long as it's flexible, conforms to the oval opening. I bought a silicone reducer, 90° bend - 5.0" to 4.0" - black from siliconeintakes.com. May be other sources but that's what I found. I think it's going to work. Fits the 4" MAF tube FF provided. I have an air filter on the way that I think will fit. Will post if/when I have a solution. On my Coupe build, it's a 3.5" system with pieces from Treadstone. They weren't part of the Coyote kit from FF at the time. It's a pretty standard setup with a 90° bend and medium air filter. Fits OK. You should be able to do something similar with yours in 4". I doubt any of the Mustang pieces (including Steeda) would fit. I've looked at many of them trying to sort this build out.

[UKSNAKE]

Thanks very much. I may have a few beginner mistakes to want to fix on the next one ! Still building up courage for bending brakelines at the moment

[UKSNAKE]

Fun time driving the Coupe up to the Build School on Saturday. The interview with the FF team caught me a little off guard (not my thing) but I enjoyed seeing everyone and checking out the Mk5 build class. Plus free lunch and hat. Can't beat that! Filled up on the way home and that's really it for the season. Started to rain about 5 minutes after I pulled into the garage. Cold weather ahead is pretty consistent now.

Yesterday my build buddy Greg helped me drop the body onto the partially finished Mk5 chassis for the first time. Not too hard with two people. Four would be easier to spread the sides as it’s going down. No worries now but definitely once it’s painted. Spent the time since checking and planning for what needs to be added.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221748&d=1763504501

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221749&d=1763504501

My very first impression was how much the top of the footboxes are covered.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221747&d=1763504501

Not bad. Just different. The covers need to be removable. For the pedal box on the LH side and HVAC (if installed) on the RH side. Still reachable under the body overhang for fasteners. But the opening is relatively small past the body. I’m installing a heater only, so it’s somewhat small. But I’m going to make sure I fasten so it can drop out the bottom inside the cockpit. For those installing the FF heat-A/C this is especially important I think.

Another observation is that without the 3/4" tubes around the hood opening, like all previous versions, the body does have a little flex in that area. The Mk5 has new braces by the front hinges. I don’t have them installed yet. That will make a difference, but I don’t expect completely. I don’t think it’s a problem. Just different.

I checked the fit of the hood, trunk lid, and doors. All look decent. They will require some trimming. But not that much. Speaking of the hood, one of my big concerns was whether Cobra Jet intake on my Aluminator was going to fit under the hood. I have the front resting on the quick jacks, and a piece of bulb seal on the firewall. So the body and hood are close to finish height. The bad news? The hood rocks on the front of the intake. Probably about 1/4" interference. The good news? Right in the center of the hood scoop. I was planning a hood scoop with the standard hood cutout. So, I’ll be OK. For those that omit the hood scoop or the cutout, this setup wouldn’t work. Later Mustangs had a lower profile CJ intake. That was going to be my fallback plan. But I’m going to leave things as is.

Another one of my big goals for this initial fitment was to figure out if I could fit the Moroso expansion tank like I’ve done on my previous Coyote builds and use the standard Ford OE plumbing. Or a suitable tank alternative, e.g. a different brand, the 24-25 tank is slightly different, etc. I made a cardboard mockup of the Moroso tank. It’s a no-go. Same for the different size/shape 24-25 tank. The big issue is the cold air intake. They take up a lot of space and especially in this case with the wide Cobra Jet throttle body. Also the distance between the front of the engine and the frame cross member is 2-3” less than the Coupe where I was able to fit the Moroso tank. There’s always the option to use a smaller tank that’s not made for this and adapt. Like PNWTim is doing with his Coupe build. But, at this moment, I think I’m going to revert to a standard overflow tank setup and use the FF supplied tank. It fits. That’s not an easy decision, and I’ve been promoting and talking up the OE setup forever. But I don’t think I have a choice. What I’m thinking of doing though is using parts from Power by the Hour that seem to be better than just blocking off unused ports with rubber caps. The front facing connection on the LH heater port would be eliminated. A bleed screw would be placed in the thermostat housing and the usual T-filler in the upper radiator hose. This would make it similar to the setup I used on my Truck LS3 build. Which worked OK once I bled and filled the cooling system with a vacuum filler. More details to work out. But that’s the direction I’m headed.

Other points without so much verbiage. You can thank me later.


Confirmed the Tilton 3-chamber brake/clutch reservoir is the option I’m going to use and determined the location.
Confirmed the location of the battery tray. With it all the way back against the chassis cross member, I can lift the battery (Odyssey 925) out the top with the cold air intake removed. Same as the Coupe. Note that’s without the optional PB vacuum unit, which I’m not using.
Confirmed I’m going to mount the Coyote PCM on top of the frame just ahead of the RH footbox cover. All the cables reach there without drama and it’s mostly under the body.
I’ll mount the Coyote PDB (Power Distribution Box) centered behind the engine on the tube below the firewall. Lots of room. Partly because the Aluminator doesn’t have IMRC (Intake Manifold Runner Controls) and the related vacuum motors on the back of the intake.
All four splash guards (aka elephant ears) are going to require some tweaking. Not major but nothing new.
The build manual doesn’t say anything about bulb seal across the rear cockpit wall or the corners. A YouTube video of FF’s prototype clearly shows bulb seal all the way across. I put a scrap piece on the back wall and like previous Mk’s it's not a good fit. I will put bulb seal only on the corners as in the past.
I confirmed the location of the dash to the dash hoop. There’s about 1/4" of clearance between the dash hoop and the underside of the body. Should be easy enough.
I also noted there is the “slice” opening at the front of the rear wheel wells. Where the chassis is straight and the body is curved. It appears the sill piece may block this opening from the cockpit. But it’s still open. I will fab some fill pieces. Also like previous builds. Looks worse in the picture because the body isn’t pulled all the way in. But still there.
Work to do to get the seats at the right height and the driver side slider installed. In the picture above, the seat is sitting flat on the floor. Note how low it is.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221745&d=1763504501

One last detail. Before I dropped the body on, I decided how I’m going to route the front harness. Made a hole in the outside of the LH footbox and will start there. The harness has a pre-installed grommet. But it’s big enough to allow the connectors to pass through. I didn’t want to drill that big of a hole. Plus, I will likely remove the connectors and hard wire. I did this on the Coupe build for several of the harness branches. Saves space plus you can customize the length. So I de-pinned the connectors and passed through the smaller hole. In the process, found what I consider a poor crimp on the cooling fan wire. Basically the wire gauge is too big for the terminal. So the crimp is kind of in the middle of the conductors and hanging on for dear life. Probably wouldn’t have come loose, but not good. It will get resolved.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221753&d=1763507629

OK, that’s more than enough. In addition to ordering parts to make what I’ve listed here happen, I’m going to search for what I need to build the cold air intake. I’ve got some decisions to make on how it will be oriented plus find an adapter for the oval CJ intake that works.

Did you position your Tilton reservoir yet?

[edwardb]

Did you position your Tilton reservoir yet?

No. I will mount it after I take the body back off. The body on only for mock-up purposes right now. I'm finalizing the front and back harnesses and lighting connections at this time. I few more things on my list and then it will come back off. At that point, easier to make a final decision about which of the two places I'm considering and also easier access to however I attach it. As for location, nothing to add beyond what I posted on this thread on the subject.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?52634-Brake-resevoirs-on-MKV&p=596629&viewfull=1#post596629

It will be one of those two places. Just to confirm, there isn't room to fit the reservoir(s) between the engine and the chassis rails as guys who are not using Coyotes are doing.

[rickshank]

One last detail. Before I dropped the body on, I decided how I’m going to route the front harness. Made a hole in the outside of the LH footbox and will start there. The harness has a pre-installed grommet. But it’s big enough to allow the connectors to pass through. I didn’t want to drill that big of a hole. Plus, I will likely remove the connectors and hard wire. I did this on the Coupe build for several of the harness branches. Saves space plus you can customize the length. So I de-pinned the connectors and passed through the smaller hole. In the process, found what I consider a poor crimp on the cooling fan wire. Basically the wire gauge is too big for the terminal. So the crimp is kind of in the middle of the conductors and hanging on for dear life. Probably wouldn’t have come loose, but not good. It will get resolved.


Interesting on harness location. Would that work with most engine configs? (347 here).

Waiting patiently for my chassis harness (picked car up in August) and tackling some other things. Also need to check on getting some decent automotive wire to have for additional circuits/changes. I think I need to grab some more Deutch connectors as well once I figure out what wire gauges/colors I need.

Still haven't got FF to sell me the new battery tray (supposedly waiting for engineering to create price/part number). Worst case, I'm going to either use send cut send or just make the "old" tray work with my custom brackets after I cut out the diagonals.

Car is looking great, Paul!

[edwardb]

Interesting on harness location. Would that work with most engine configs? (347 here).

Waiting patiently for my chassis harness (picked car up in August) and tackling some other things. Also need to check on getting some decent automotive wire to have for additional circuits/changes. I think I need to grab some more Deutch connectors as well once I figure out what wire gauges/colors I need.

Still haven't got FF to sell me the new battery tray (supposedly waiting for engineering to create price/part number). Worst case, I'm going to either use send cut send or just make the "old" tray work with my custom brackets after I cut out the diagonals.

Car is looking great, Paul!

Thanks. The routing I'm using for the front harness would be the same for your engine. I would expect maybe some variation of where to exit from the footbox. But the rest I suspect would be similar for all builds. More details in an upcoming post when I get it further along.

[edwardb]

Working on several different things right now. This will only be about what I’ve decided to do with the cold air intake. The Coyote install kit from FF included some nice parts: a 4” to 4” silicone 90° elbow, an aluminum 4” MAF adapter tube, and a 4” cone air filter. But the oval Cobra Jet throttle body on the Aluminator requires a 5” tube to connect. I bought a 5" to 4" silicone 90° reducer from siliconeintakes.com. My idea was to route the cold air intake above the diagonal frame tube as I’ve seen in some pictures and my picture below. Rather than under the diagonal frame tube and angling down into the area behind the radiator. My preference for three reasons: First, the CJ throttle body points down slightly, so a normal length 90° adapter runs the air cleaner into the accessory drives on the engine plus blocks radiator connections. Second, that puts the air cleaner directly into the area of the radiator and path of the cooling fan. Not helpful for intake air temps. Third, blocks space that could be used for a radiator expansion tank. Haven’t given up on that yet.

Initial mockups of routing the cold air intake on top looked promising except the kit supplied air filter was too long and mostly too big around. I bought a K&N RU-2510 medium size air filter, same one I used on the LS3 powered Truck build, and it appeared to be successful. Clears the hood hinge and the underside of the hood. I thought I was done except as I was staring admiring my work :rolleyes: late a few nights ago I realized I hadn’t taken the hood gas strut into account. So, mocked that up and had to shorten the intake about 3/4” to clear. So now everything is tight but it fits. The picture shows where I’m at minus clamps. I think this will work. I also need to shorten the MAF adapter tube. You can see it bulging inside the reducer. Don't want to cut anything until I'm positive this is it.

Plan B, should I change my mind for whatever reason, would be to route the cold air intake diagonally down behind the radiator as mentioned. Which I’m trying to avoid. I found a 5" to 4" silicone 90° reducer with 6” legs (much longer than what I have now) at HPS Performance. It’s pricey ($159), but I could adjust the lengths enough to change the orientation. Even use the larger air filter. But I’d prefer not to for the reasons already described.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222155&d=1764216042

With the body on, I have all the lights temporarily installed and finalizing the front and rear harnesses, Weather Pack connectors, etc. I’ll post an update when completed.

On a completely unrelated note, because I know a few of you have shown interest in my airplane build, I heard from the buyer and new owner today that it's registered and airworthy. Completed its first flight this week. How cool is that? N920PB is officially a flier. He said the DAR inspection went well and he made several positive comments about the build and provided documentation. Next up is the usual Phase 1 testing. Used to be a mandatory 40 hours. But it's been changed to a task-based approach and typically takes around 20 hours. I've asked for pictures and a video if there is one. We get emotionally invested in builds (at least I do) so I was especially exited to receive this news. And happy for him as he trusted me and dropped some major coin on the purchase.

With that, Happy Thanksgiving everyone!

[Erik W. Treves]

Paul - happy thanksgiving.

Make sure you leave room for the hood strut (if you are using them)

[edwardb]

Paul - happy thanksgiving.

Make sure you leave room for the hood strut (if you are using them)

Hey Erik! Thanks for following my build. Much appreciated since you've already completed a Mk5. I did mention the hood struts in my post. Had to adjust a little but OK now. Unless you're talking about something else and I don't know what that would be.

[PMD24]

Interesting on harness location. Would that work with most engine configs? (347 here).

Waiting patiently for my chassis harness (picked car up in August) and tackling some other things. Also need to check on getting some decent automotive wire to have for additional circuits/changes. I think I need to grab some more Deutch connectors as well once I figure out what wire gauges/colors I need.

Still haven't got FF to sell me the new battery tray (supposedly waiting for engineering to create price/part number). Worst case, I'm going to either use send cut send or just make the "old" tray work with my custom brackets after I cut out the diagonals.

Car is looking great, Paul!

Wire Barn is a great source for automotive wire. They have all types and you can order by the foot in any size and color, or choose bundles. Quick delivery too.

Pat

[UKSNAKE]

No. I will mount it after I take the body back off. The body on only for mock-up purposes right now. I'm finalizing the front and back harnesses and lighting connections at this time. I few more things on my list and then it will come back off. At that point, easier to make a final decision about which of the two places I'm considering and also easier access to however I attach it. As for location, nothing to add beyond what I posted on this thread on the subject.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?52634-Brake-resevoirs-on-MKV&p=596629&viewfull=1#post596629

It will be one of those two places. Just to confirm, there isn't room to fit the reservoir(s) between the engine and the chassis rails as guys who are not using Coyotes are doing.

Okay thankyou

[edwardb]

With the body on for mockup, it’s good time to finalize the front and rear Ron Francis harness installation. Including mounting the lights, establishing the lengths for all the connections, installing all the connectors, and making sure they work.

I previously described the mods I made to the rear harness in this post including where I mounted most of it: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51545-EdwardB%92s-Mk5-30th-Anniversary-Build-Cold-Air-Intake&p=593899&viewfull=1#post593899. Only thing left was the routing to the rear lights. So, put Weather Packs on the provided square LED rear lights and adjusted the holes in the body for the mounting bolts and to clear the Weather Pack 3-way connectors. Note the purple brake light wires are not used. My build plan includes backup lights. Not required in Michigan, but I put them in the Coupe, like them, so decided to install them again here. After looking at multiple light options, I went with HotSlot LED Backup Lights L63BW-5 from Watson’s Streetworks. Another forum member, Kool AC (a fellow Michigander), installed them in his beautiful build so I’m basically duplicating what he did. They are on the inside of the lower valance with just a slot for the lens. The lens is a piece of clear acrylic that you trim and polish so it’s flush with the body. Understated but very bright when lit. With that, here are some pictures. The raw inside of the body isn't pretty. Plus it's dark and hard to get decent pictures. But hopefully these are useful.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222255&d=1764543761

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222253&d=1764543761

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222254&d=1764543761

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222256&d=1764543761

[edwardb]

For the front harness, I also made several changes. Removed the thermo switch wire that was part of the fan power branch, added wires for DRL’s which will go to an ignition powered circuit and +12V any time the car is on (more about that later), added another ground wire on each side so the headlights and front running/turn signal lights could have their own connectors, and moved the horn wires several inches (mentioned in the build manual). Then put the convolute back on and wrapped with American Autowire R0067108 harness tape same as the rear harness. Then installed in the chassis. Through the hole in the LH footbox shown previously, along the outside chassis rail, along the rail under the radiator, and up to each front corner. Then installed connectors and mounted the headlights and running/turn signal lights. Again, after adjusting the pre-cut holes in the body as needed including so the connectors could pass through. For the running/turn signal lights, I replaced the incandescent bulbs with 1157 compatible LED bulbs from Amazon. That makes all the exterior lighting LED's. The interior should be the same.

So, for the headlights. The kit came with LED headlights, which was a bit of a surprise since they historically supply halogen headlights. Which most including me upgrade because a flashlight would probably be brighter. But I’m going outside the lines a little with this build. I’ve seen a few builds at London and elsewhere that installed modern lights with halo DRL’s. It’s a look I didn’t care for at first but it’s growing on me a little. This build has a number of non-traditional touches, so kind of fits. Plus, I like the idea of having the front lit all the time like most DD’s. I will often drive with my lights on during the day just to increase my visibility to others. I bought Xprite 7 Inch LED Headlights on Amazon. They are for Jeep, Hummer, etc. and are DOT approved. Lots of good reviews. My impression so far is they are good quality. They fit into the kit provided buckets using all the provided parts. Only thing necessary was to cut a bigger hole in the bucket so the connector would pass through. Found some grommets that fit in the new hole and sealed at the cable. So, with that, here’s what I have. The ball of wires in one of the pics is for the horns. They install on one of the radiator bracket bolts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222247&d=1764543737

This is an update from the previous photo I posted here. I found out later that my original location for part of the front cable on top of the chassis tube interfered with the front splash guard. I reoriented two of the padded clamps as shown here to fit the splash panel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224967&d=1769983879


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222249&d=1764543737

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222250&d=1764543737

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222252&d=1764543761

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222251&d=1764543737

Several additional items of note:


Not mentioned but seen in one of the pictures, I installed a Weather Pack 2-way connector for the cooling fan. I cut off the connector that came with the fan. These type of connectors are rated for up to 20 amps. The fan briefly pulls close to that at startup, but runs continuously on much less. I've used this same connector in this location on multiple builds without any issues.

I used padded clamps and 3/16” rivets to hole both the front and rear harnesses. Same as fuel lines and brake lines. When it comes time for final installation, I will add some cable tie mounts at each corner to tie things down more and tuck out of the way.

I chose to leave the 3-prong connectors on the new headlights and splice the mating connectors onto the RF harness. These aren't sealed. The wires on the outside of the connectors are the DRL power. I’ll add a piece of large shrink sleeve over these connections during final assembly.

I checked everything with a power supply and probing the proper pins on the other ends of the harnesses in the cockpit. All OK.


I still have a handful of things on my list before I take the body back off, but I’m done with this part of wiring for now. Onward!

[edwardb]

Just about finished with my to-do list while the body is temporarily in place. Yesterday worked on the seats. It’s best to finalize the locations with the body on. First up is height. According to Mark at Breeze the Mk5 cockpit floor is 2-1/2 inches lower than previous models. Noted in a seat riser kit he’s selling for the Mk5. That sounds about right. With 2-1/2” thick spacers under my seats, I’m happy with the height. I’ll make my own risers. TBD at this point. The passenger side I’ll fix at the furthest point back. The driver side will have seat tracks that add 7/8” of height, so the risers will be shorter. I’m planning to use weld nuts like I did on the Coupe. So, the seat attachment bolts will go in from the bottom. More details when the time comes.

The body can interfere with the seats at the top outside corners above the door latches. It’s generally recommended to determine the final location of the seats with the body in place. The Mk5 has one of the rear wall pieces mounted on the outside which creates kind of a pocket that allows the seats to go slightly further back. With the anniversary seats provided in place and pushed as far back as possible, they go into the pocket slightly and in that position there is no interference to the body. Also checked the doors and the new design latches. Also, no interference. So, I’m good to go with mounting the seats later. Easier with the body off. But just to confirm, this is with the anniversary seats provided. Your experience may vary with different seats.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222437&d=1764889795

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222438&d=1764889795

Another item on my list was to determine and document the dash location. Lots of forum questions about the proper location. You don’t want it too low or the top of the dash could be visible. Too high and you could affect the body fit. With the body in place, it’s easy to confirm the right location. I opted for a blank aluminum dash on this build. Same as I’ve done on previous Roadsters. I’m not a fan of the plastic dash. The C-F one is nice. But I want a leather covered dash with my own layout. So spent some time to curve the ends, trim a little to fit, and I’m ready to go. I have the location I’m going to use documented and will be easy to duplicate and attach to the frame with the body off. Nothing to see here. No pictures.

With the seat height and locations determined, I sat in the driver’s seat with the steering wheel in place. Found out, as others suggested earlier in this build thread, the standard Mk5 steering wheel location is high. Again, in the interest of accommodating bigger drivers. A theme for the Mk5. I could have lived with it and said previously I didn’t want to mess with it. But I reconsidered this decision and took things apart. The manual shows the turn signal column mount on top of the chassis mount. That’s how I had mine assembled. But it’s also possible to mount the turn signal column mount on the bottom of the chassis mount and space it down to lower the column and steering wheel. The manual has a very general statement about the final location will determine the height of the steering wheel. But without any details. I tried several configurations and ended up pretty conservative with the turn signal column mount on the bottom and two thick washer spacers. This moved it down about 3/8” from where I had it before and changed the height of the steering wheel, measured to the seat bottom, not quite an inch. Plus changed the angle slightly. Provides plenty of knee room for me to get in and out and is a comfortable location for driving, cruising, etc. It could be lower with longer spacers. But I’m happy with this location. While I want this build to be comfortable for me, I’m mindful not to get it too custom. I plan to keep it. But then I’ve said that five times before. While I was checking things out, confirmed I was OK with the pedal heights.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222440&d=1764889795

I also completed some minor tasks with the fuel system. I installed the fuel filler. Hint: Don’t do what I did and install the tank in the chassis without installing the filler. The little bracket that is installed at the inlet is bolted to the edge of the tank. Not accessible once the tank is installed. I had to loosen my tank straps to get the bolt in. Not a big deal but an unforced error. Drilled the body for the LeMans cap and have that ready to go.

I also made up my evap filter and have it ready to install. Following is old information and has been repeated multiple times. But I’ll add it here since there are many new builders. I’ve used charcoal filters on the gas tank vent line for each of my builds. This is to prevent gasoline odors in the garage. Some report no gasoline odors without a filter. Some report gasoline odors even with a filter. I only know I’ve used them on each of my builds and have never had any odors. For my first build, I used a Mustang charcoal filter with the purge valve disabled. They’re not particularly cheap and also not serviceable. Some years ago there were a bunch of forum posts about making your own using aquarium filter charcoal and various containers. Jeff Kleiner showed making a container from PVC pieces, which I patterned mine after. These are standard plumbing pieces from HD or Lowes and not expensive. The mounting bracket isn’t necessary, but I like how it mounts the filter with hose clamps and looks somewhat professional. The three PVC pieces are the main body of the filter. The one I use is a 2-inch coupler and then caps for each end with a 3/4-inch hole. One end gets the hose barb glued in for the vent hose. The other end is left open. Two circles of Scotch Brite go in each cap to keep the charcoal pieces inside. The charcoal is from the pet section at Walmart and enough for 4-5 fills at least. I glue on one end cap and leave the other end loose. It’s a tight fit plus under the hose clamp. Would be easy to remove the assembly from the mounting bracket and put in new charcoal if necessary. I’ve used this exact setup multiple times. No odor (yet). There are other container options that some have shown using similar interior components, including repurposing the FF provided brake fluid reservoir. I thought that was clever.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222454&d=1764892276

This is from a previous build and shows generally where I plan to mount this one. Later when the body is off and the area more accessible. At the risk of stating the obvious, this hose is attached to the vent on top of the gas tank. I've used the Breeze 70648 Big Bore Vent Check Valve Kit on all my builds. Same here.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222455&d=1764892276

Should have the body off in the next update.

[Ejzajac]

"So, for the headlights. The kit came with LED headlights, which was a bit of a surprise since they historically supply halogen headlights. Which most including me upgrade because a flashlight would probably be brighter. But I’m going outside the lines a little with this build. I’ve seen a few builds at London and elsewhere that installed modern lights with halo DRL’s. It’s a look I didn’t care for at first but it’s growing on me a little. This build has a number of non-traditional touches, so kind of fits. Plus, I like the idea of having the front lit all the time like most DD’s. I will often drive with my lights on during the day just to increase my visibility to others. I bought Xprite 7 Inch LED Headlights on Amazon. They are for Jeep, Hummer, etc. and are DOT approved. Lots of good reviews. My impression so far is they are good quality. They fit into the kit provided buckets using all the provided parts. Only thing necessary was to cut a bigger hole in the bucket so the connector would pass through. Found some grommets that fit in the new hole and sealed at the cable. So, with that, here’s what I have. The ball of wires in one of the pics is for the horns. They install on one of the radiator bracket bolts."

Paul,
Do you think the current FF LED headlights are significantly dimmer than the replacement lights you selected? FF does not provide any output data on their LED headlights.

Ed Z

[edwardb]

Paul, Do you think the current FF LED headlights are significantly dimmer than the replacement lights you selected? FF does not provide any output data on their LED headlights.

Ed Z

Agreed no data on the kit supplied LED's. But I have no reason to think they wouldn't be plenty bright and certainly an upgrade over the previous halogen lights. Not to mention the significantly lower current draw. My reason for using the headlights I selected was strictly for the modern "look" including the halo DRL's (Daytime Driving Lights). I don't know that they're any brighter than the kit provided LED's, which I would have used except for the reasons mentioned.

[Higgybulin]

So for the turn signal/steering column, was that two washers per side?
Higgy

[edwardb]

So for the turn signal/steering column, was that two washers per side?
Higgy

Yes. Same for both sides. More washers or spacers could be added to lower the steering wheel even more.

[Ramjet]

Paul,

Love the progress you’re making and looking great!

I also followed the advise of Mike and Jeff earlier on in your thread about lowering the turn signal and raising the middle shaft bearing. After sitting in the FFR MK5 in their showroom, at 5’9” I felt a little low in the car for the steering angle.

One thing I realized though was the steering shaft was at the very bottom of the oval opening with the pre vinyl plastic dash, so I opted for the CF dash and will make my own openings along with a competition gauge layout.

Eric222480222477222478222479222476

[Aleinsteingenius]

I also installed the tank before putting in the fuel filter tube, and now have to lower the tank to get it in. I must be getting somewhere if I am now making the same mistakes as the great EdwardB.

[Mike.Bray]

"So, for the headlights. The kit came with LED headlights, which was a bit of a surprise since they historically supply halogen headlights. Which most including me upgrade because a flashlight would probably be brighter. But I’m going outside the lines a little with this build. I’ve seen a few builds at London and elsewhere that installed modern lights with halo DRL’s. It’s a look I didn’t care for at first but it’s growing on me a little. This build has a number of non-traditional touches, so kind of fits. Plus, I like the idea of having the front lit all the time like most DD’s. I will often drive with my lights on during the day just to increase my visibility to others. I bought Xprite 7 Inch LED Headlights on Amazon. They are for Jeep, Hummer, etc. and are DOT approved. Lots of good reviews. My impression so far is they are good quality. They fit into the kit provided buckets using all the provided parts. Only thing necessary was to cut a bigger hole in the bucket so the connector would pass through. Found some grommets that fit in the new hole and sealed at the cable. So, with that, here’s what I have. The ball of wires in one of the pics is for the horns. They install on one of the radiator bracket bolts."

Paul,
Do you think the current FF LED headlights are significantly dimmer than the replacement lights you selected? FF does not provide any output data on their LED headlights.

Ed Z

I did LED headlights with halos and love them. I was able to eliminate the stock turn signal lights to make a smoother look on the front end.


https://youtu.be/6E9b8it0uE0

[edwardb]

I did LED headlights with halos and love them. I was able to eliminate the stock turn signal lights to make a smoother look on the front end.

Nice. The lights I purchased didn't have the capability to also work as turn signals. The truck build did and you're right, makes a clean setup.

[edwardb]

Paul,

Love the progress you’re making and looking great!

I also followed the advise of Mike and Jeff earlier on in your thread about lowering the turn signal and raising the middle shaft bearing. After sitting in the FFR MK5 in their showroom, at 5’9” I felt a little low in the car for the steering angle.

One thing I realized though was the steering shaft was at the very bottom of the oval opening with the pre vinyl plastic dash, so I opted for the CF dash and will make my own openings along with a competition gauge layout.

Thanks. Appreciate the positive feedback. I'm also 5'9" and agree (after some persuasion) that the stock setup was less than ideal for me too. I didn't find it necessary to cut additional metal for the middle shaft bearing. I loosened the bolts enough for it to move as I was playing with various heights for the steering column. Once I settled on the washers and spacers shown previously, it had moved to one end of the slots, but nothing more was necessary. I checked repeatedly as I was tightening everything up that nothing bound or dragged. Maybe you and others experienced something different. But other than the effort required to get the turn signal mechanism properly centered (again...) it was a pretty easy change. I'm using the plain aluminum dash as mentioned, so I'll adjust the hole if necessary. So far it's OK. I can make it bigger and fill if necessary before covering.

[shaneunger]

Hey Paul, quick question about how your ran the front brake lines from the MC out through the foot box. Looking at the photos, it looks like you have some sort of sleeve on the line where it passes through the panel, is that correct? I was thinking about using a rubber grommet to prevent the brake line from vibrating agains the panel, but I'm interested how you did it.

[edwardb]

Hey Paul, quick question about how your ran the front brake lines from the MC out through the foot box. Looking at the photos, it looks like you have some sort of sleeve on the line where it passes through the panel, is that correct? I was thinking about using a rubber grommet to prevent the brake line from vibrating agains the panel, but I'm interested how you did it.

The hole in the footbox panel is big enough for the tube nut to pass through. So, yes some type of grommet or cushioning material is desirable to protect the line as well as seal the opening. I used several wraps of this material. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LA2258?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1. Pretty amazing stuff. I also used it where the wiring harness and brake line go through the footbox side. This is another shout out to my airplane build. The company that did my wiring harness recommended it.

[edwardb]

I’ve changed my mind and decided to install the seats now while the body is on. As mentioned already, there doesn’t appear to be any interference with the 30th Anniversary seats. But why not go ahead and do them now while the body is still on? I’ve ordered material that I’ll use to make the seat risers. I’ll show that later. But since I’m doing heated seats, today went ahead and installed the heaters. I’ve used CobraHeat seat heaters previously. But doesn’t appear those are available any longer. At least when I tried to order them some weeks ago. Instead I purchased Corbeau #12501 Seat Heaters from Summit. Very similar. The Corbeau seats in my Coupe, which work very well, have factory installed heaters. I'm guessing these are the same or similar. I will emphasize again though the following is for the leather seats provided with the 30th Anniversary Roadster. They're made by the same company that makes the standard Roadster seats. But there could be differences so be warned.

Installation of seat heaters has been described before. So I’ll go through it quickly with some pictures. Basically it’s a matter of gaining access to the space between the seat covers and the cushion and installing the pads. One for the seat back and one for the seat bottom. Back in the day, the covering on these seats was wrapped to the frame and held in place with hog rings. Not particularly fun to remove or put back in place. The last couple pairs of seat I’ve done replaced the hog rings with plastic channels sewn to the seat covers that snap in place around wire pieces in the frame. Couldn’t be easier. Unclipping one channel releases the seat bottoms from the frames. Unclipping two others opens the seat backs far enough to install the seat back heating pads.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222579&d=1765163299

These heating pads had double back tape strips around the perimeters. The adhesive side goes against the foam cushion. With the backing removed, the seat back pads are placed and the plastic channels hooked back up. Easy.

The seat bottoms are a little more work. The seat covers are wrapped around and glued to the bottom of the cushions. Easy enough to peel the covers off to gain access to install the heating pads. But first, outline the position of the covers with a felt marker. This makes sure to get the covers back where they were before.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222580&d=1765163299

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222581&d=1765163299

Then peel the backing and stick the heating pads. I punched a hole in the foam and pulled the wire connector through the back corner.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222582&d=1765163299

Then back together re-gluing the covering in the original positions. I used DAP Weldwood Gel Contact Cement. Typically, my go-to anywhere contact cement is required. The gel version works best for me. In my area, available at Lowes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222583&d=1765163323

Then seat bottoms clipped back onto the frames and job done. I put +12V to each to confirm they’re working. The provided harness has the relay (I assume that’s what’s inside the little box), the usual hi-low switch, and plenty of wire length to tap into power. I’ll put the harness wires along the inside bottom corners of the cockpit. Underneath insulation and carpet and the switches somewhere on the dash or switch panel. TBD.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222584&d=1765163323

Total time just a few hours around Sunday football. When the 2-1/2" seat risers are installed, will be plenty of room to route the wires around under the seats.

[Ejzajac]

Paul,
Thanks for the tips on seat heaters.
Are you still planning a heater/defroster system?
With both in place you could driving well into the Michigan Fall season.

Ed Z

[edwardb]

Paul,
Thanks for the tips on seat heaters.
Are you still planning a heater/defroster system?
With both in place you could driving well into the Michigan Fall season.

Ed Z

Yes. Planning a heater/defroster. Have it and the coolant valve on hand. Will be in installed in the RH foobox when I have the body back off. Shown in an earlier post. We've had only seat heaters in our previous Roadsters, and they mostly kept us comfortable. But with heat in the Coupe, now I guess we're spoiled. It has heated seats too and they get used. Especially on the passenger side. :o

[edwardb]

This is an exciting update because I’ve finally found solutions for several important aspects of the Aluminator installation. Not every one is completely finished. But far enough along to share progress.

Cold Air Intake: Not a lot to add from the basic layout I showed previously. But it’s finished unless something changes. I installed the MAF sensor (comes with the Ford Performance control pack) and immediately found my MAF tube was backwards. The MAF tube is keyed so the sensor can only go in one way. But it doesn’t help if the tube itself is assembled into the CAI backwards. The PCM will shut the engine down almost immediately if it’s backwards as some have found out. The opening in the sensor must be pointed at the air cleaner, e.g. so it directly receives incoming airflow. I installed the connector for the PCV hose off the LH head. Used the one that came with the Coyote installation kit. Also installed a T-bolt hose clamp where the CAI attaches to the throttle body. I think it’s good to go.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222824&d=1765656517

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222825&d=1765656517

Lower Radiator Hose: I’ve used Boig Cool Tubes on most of my builds. The corrugated radiator hoses that come with the kit work and many use them. But also, like many, I don’t care for their appearance or their tendency to blow off at the worst possible time. There are ways to help prevent that, but still… I received a prototype of a cool tube for the Mk5 to Coyote installation. Nice piece but immediately there was a problem. Factory Five has two different radiators. The Afco branded one like they sent me which has a straight lower hose connection. Then another brand (no name, I think it’s imported) that has an angled lower hose connection. The cool tube prototype was made for the angled lower connection which didn’t play very will with my straight connection. I decided to make it work and with a combination of hose pieces was able to make an “S” bend and hook everything up. I used T-bolt clamps other than at the radiator. I didn’t have any more on hand. I’ll probably use one of the Gates shrink type connectors there when it’s finally installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222828&d=1765656517

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222827&d=1765656517

Upper Radiator Hose: This is still a work in progress but with an important breakthrough. The Ford hose that came with the Coyote installation kit with the proprietary quick disconnect at the engine had the wrong angles and curves to work like I wanted in this installation. For my 20th Anniversary build, I used an F-150 hose (KM5114. same as CL3Z-8260-A) which is straighter. But it still wasn’t close to working. (Thank you Amazon for your easy return process.) The main issue was the connector angles these hoses have where they attach to the engine. With a little research, found that PBH (Power By The Hour) sells an adapter that snaps onto the quick disconnect and then provides a straight out standard 1.5” hose connection. Received that today. Clearly a very high quality piece that fits perfectly. Not cheap but now I can install a nearly straight upper radiator hose over to the radiator. TBD at this point whether it will be a straight piece of regular hose, maybe silicone (?), or maybe I'll make something similar to the Boig pieces with a metal tube and hose connections. Would be easy enough to do.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222826&d=1765656517

Expansion Tank: I’ve talked repeatedly about wanting to use the Ford standard coolant system layout as I’ve done on other Coyote builds. The Moroso tank (and other similar brands) might have fit but very tight. I was about to give up and revert to a standard overflow tank situation. Earlier in this build thread, another forum member mentioned a tank from VMP that is more compact. Looked very promising so I ordered one. It cost me $50 to drag my feet and not decide during their Black Friday sale. Oh well. It too arrived today. Plastic, but clearly a nice quality piece. The size and configuration couldn’t be more perfect. I’ll need to make some brackets to replace the Gorilla tape but no big deal. The weight of the filled tank is directly on the frame cross member. I’ll confirm the exact side-to-side location once the upper radiator hose is installed. But somewhere as pictured. I checked just to be sure and I’m an inch or more below the hood. Things are coming together.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222829&d=1765656534