EdwardB’s Mk5 30th Anniversary Build. Another Wiring Update

[i.e.427]

I kind of like the Gorilla tape Paul...........:p

Nice solution for the expansion tank. For the upper hose, I had to send a Gen 2 Coyote to the dyno and needed an adapter for their hose to fit. I cut the F5R upper Ford hose off of the plastic adapter that comes attached to it. This may be a more economical solution for others going forward. As you know, that piece can be re-clocked to change direction.

Frank

[edwardb]

I kind of like the Gorilla tape Paul...........:p

Nice solution for the expansion tank. For the upper hose, I had to send a Gen 2 Coyote to the dyno and needed an adapter for their hose to fit. I cut the F5R upper Ford hose off of the plastic adapter that comes attached to it. This may be a more economical solution for others going forward. As you know, that piece can be re-clocked to change direction.

Frank

Hi Frank. Thanks for your response. Yes, I'm aware the Ford adapter can be clocked. Been there done that. In this case, I actually did cut the Ford hose and try to make it work with the standard connector. I didn't go into depth in my post since it was already long enough. :p Bottom line the straight out adapter from PBH exactly gave me the routing I wanted given everything else I had going on in that area. But as we often say, there's no one right way for any of this and we all make choices for our build. I would use the PBH piece again if necessary. It's a high quality billet piece that fits precisely. But agreed it's not cheap. But then neither is this build.

[Ejzajac]

"Expansion Tank: I’ve talked repeatedly about wanting to use the Ford standard coolant system layout as I’ve done on other Coyote builds. The Moroso tank (and other similar brands) might have fit but very tight. I was about to give up and revert to a standard overflow tank situation. Earlier in this build thread, another forum member mentioned a tank from VMP that is more compact. I’ll confirm the exact side-to-side location once the upper radiator hose is installed. But somewhere as pictured. I checked just to be sure and I’m an inch or more below the hood. Things are coming together."

Paul,
The VMP expansion tank for the Mustang looks like a real solution.
Do you thinks this Mustang tank is a better option over their upcoming F-150 Coyote option for our Mk5's?
Perhaps the hose connections match better with the Mustang replacement. Without a brake booster, the central location for the expansion tank is quite logical.
Thanks for all the cooling info on hoses/pipes.

Ed Z

[edwardb]

Paul,
The VMP expansion tank for the Mustang looks like a real solution.
Do you thinks this Mustang tank is a better option over their upcoming F-150 Coyote option for our Mk5's?
Perhaps the hose connections match better with the Mustang replacement. Without a brake booster, the central location for the expansion tank is quite logical.
Thanks for all the cooling info on hoses/pipes.

Ed Z

I don't know anything about the F-150 version of the VMP tank other than what's pictured on their website. For my layout, the Mustang one is a perfect fit. Probably that longer F-150 one wouldn't fit. For those installing the power brake vacuum booster, I suspect neither is an option. At that point, likely necessary to revert to the kit standard overflow tank setup. The tank FF provides can be located in a number of places. On my truck build, had it on the firewall.

[Ejzajac]

I don't know anything about the F-150 version of the VMP tank other than what's pictured on their website. For my layout, the Mustang one is a perfect fit. Probably that longer F-150 one wouldn't fit. For those installing the power brake vacuum booster, I suspect neither is an option. At that point, likely necessary to revert to the kit standard overflow tank setup. The tank FF provides can be located in a number of places. On my truck build, had it on the firewall.

I know you are not quite there yet, but will you have a separate coolant fluid "Fill Port" for the radiator OR can you use the VMP expansion tank fill alone?

Ed Z

[edwardb]

I know you are not quite there yet, but will you have a separate coolant fluid "Fill Port" for the radiator OR can you use the VMP expansion tank fill alone?

Ed Z

This style system is filled through the cap on the expansion tank. That's also where you monitor coolant level. There's no T-filler on the top radiator hose. Just a direct connection from the engine to the radiator. Would be that way with this brand tank or any other. A stock Mustang is the same way.

[Ejzajac]

Thank you again.

[edwardb]

Short update. Finished the upper radiator hose. Bought a 1-1/2” diameter piece of polished aluminum tubing and thought it was a straight shot from the engine to the upper radiator connection. Not so fast! Ran into one of the frame diagonals. So, I had to put together a small “S” curve at the engine to get around it. Would have been nice to be only one piece. But I didn’t feel like rooting around for a suitable hose piece. I had enough radiator hose pieces around to make it using two pieces with a connector and Gates PowerGrip clamps. I'll put the rest of the clamps on during final assembly. Happy with how it turned out.

I had previously bent up some steel pieces I had on hand to mount the VMP expansion tank. With the hose in place, now I can finalize the location. I’m going to take the radiator out to have easier access for some other work (battery tray, power wiring, PS hoses, etc.) so I’ll rivet the tank mounting brackets tp the fan shroud then. The bottom of the tank rests on a frame cross member. Should be solid. Been working on getting the seats mounted. Next update.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223187&d=1766443452

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223188&d=1766443452

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223186&d=1766443431

[edwardb]

If there’s any part of these builds that's least like assembling a piece of Ikea furniture (like some seem to expect…) could be mounting the seats. So many variables and so many possible methods. The Mk5 build manual isn’t too much help. It shows mounting the seats on the floor, which for me at 5’9” and the lower floor doesn’t work. I'd get a good view of the instruments but not too much over the hood. Raising the standard seats that came with my kit is a must. Plus, the anniversary kit came with a slider for the driver’s seat. Also a must if you want to take advantage of the extra space for all drivers.

The Mk5 floor is 2-1/2 inches lower than previous models. I mocked up the seats with 2-1/2 inch blocks and that felt about right. The slider adds 1 inch. So decided to use 1-1/2 inch square x 12 inch channels on the driver’s seat with the slider and 2-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 12 inch channels on the passenger side. Looked at aluminum channels on McMaster, my usual go-to, and was over $100 plus shipping. Looked at MetalsDepot and the same size aluminum pieces were a bit cheaper but not much. Looked at steel and about half the price. Decided to go that way. There were several thicknesses available. I chose .180 inches. Seemed about right at the time and should be plenty strong. Remember, I’ve never done this before. When UPS put the box on my porch 1-1/2 weeks later, I was more than a little surprised at the 14 pound weight. With just a little more work I could have figured that out in advance. Looking at the pieces, it was obvious what I chose was massive overkill. Today's understatement. 1/8 inch thickness was available and would have saved a couple pounds. Didn’t see anything thinner in the dimensions I needed. I considered a do-over and springing for aluminum. But decided to live with the extra weight. Maybe push away from the Thanksgiving and Christmas dinner table a couple times and make up for it. :rolleyes:

The Mk5 has generous seat pans in the frame. I made patterns of the seat pans out of RAM board (fantastic for making patterns) and taped in place on the cockpit floor. Used this to determine the location of the risers and where they attached to the metal frames of the seats. The slider that came with the kit locks on one side. I know that some prefer sliders that lock on both sides (like the Corbeau ones in my Coupe) but I used what I had and it will be fine. The FF instructions were very little help. Showed the older style 4 inch tube frame and anchor locations that didn’t match up with the Mk5 frame. But the slider installation wasn’t that hard. Just watch that locking mechanism while working. It pinches like a son-of-a-gun if you have your thumb in the wrong place. Ask me how I know. Still hurts... I did make one change. I put the handle release on the LH outside rather than in the center as shown. I was concerned the center handle would interfere with the 5-point anti-submarine belt. More about that later.

To attach the seats to the seat pan, I used the same method as in the Coupe. Which works great. I used 3/8-16 weld nuts (https://www.mcmaster.com/90955A123/) riveted inside the seat risers with 3/16 inch countersunk rivets. Then bolted through the seat pan from the bottom. Easy to install and clean on the bottom. The weld nuts have a little wiggle for self-aligning. But still need to make the holes in the seat pan as accurate as possible. I used the same pattern to carefully mark the locations and drill through the floor. I mounted the passenger seat basically as far back as it goes. The driver side is mounted also as far back is goes with the with the slider extended. There’s around 6 inches of total travel. A couple notches forward is about right for me. Lots of versatility for short and tall drivers. Nice.

With everything basically done, the excess weight of those risers was still bothering me. I decided they could go on a diet and still be ridiculously strong. So I took chunks out of each as pictured. My Milwaukee portable band saw in a SWAG base is a fantastic tool. Use it all the time and perfect for this. Cut out about four pounds. Sprayed them with rattle can black and called it done. Mounted in the car, the seats are rock solid. No surprise.

One final observation and (I guess) looking for advice. With the seats up on risers, the 5-point anti-submarine belts are much too short. Bolted to the floor they would barely reach over the front of the seats. Not to mention how you would locate the belt for the drivers seat with the slider. I’ve always installed them but not sure what to do in this case. I could leave them off and for my nearly 100% street driving maybe not the worst. But not my first choice.

With that, finally some pictures.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223189&d=1766443483

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223190&d=1766443483

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[Ejzajac]

Paul,
Should be super solid. I'm sure you evaluated Breeze with his more angled seat mount. With the lowered Mk5 floor pan, probably an additional riser is needed.
What are your thoughts? I've been seriously looking at the portable metal bandsaw. There are several cuts including the rear IRS where it would be very helpful!

Ed Z

[edwardb]

Paul,
Should be super solid. I'm sure you evaluated Breeze with his more angled seat mount. With the lowered Mk5 floor pan, probably an additional riser is needed.
What are your thoughts? I've been seriously looking at the portable metal bandsaw. There are several cuts including the rear IRS where it would be very helpful!

Ed Z

Yes, I'm familiar with the Breeze mounts. On previous Roadster builds with the standard low back seats, I've mounted them flat on the floor and they were comfortable for me. I've mocked up having them at an angle and it didn't add anything. But it's very subjective. Some like it and some, like me, don't see any advantage. I do see that Breeze is now selling a 70815 1-1/4″ Seat Riser Block Kit that pairs with his seat mounting kit for the Mk5. That might be a good solution for those building a Mk5 and want the angled mounts. What I came up with for my build, as detailed in the post, kept the seats flat, raised the amount that was comfortable for me, included the slider which I think is important given how much space there is, and mounted through the bottom which I really like after having done that before. So other than the extra ballast of the steel pieces I used, after considering a number of different approaches, was the best solution for me. But like I've said many times, what I post may/may not be for everyone.

The portable metal cutting bandsaw, with the table, is one of the most used tools in my shop. I have a pretty old regular Craftsman bandsaw that I have a metal cutting blade in and it cuts thin aluminum (like the .040 used for most of these builds) perfectly. Use that all the time too. But for ferrous and heavier materials, the portable bandsaw works for me. I could imagine some reading my post would say why not a plasma cutter. Would have been a little easier in this case. But not something i'll likely ever pursue.

[dr-sicel]

Brake lines attached to the MC’s. Front on the left, rear on the right.

A few more details on the aluminum panels, then will be moving them to the powder coater. Then will start digging into electrical. Heard from FF that the anniversary wheels have arrived. So hopefully will see them soon. After that, only one remaining POL item.

Where are you putting the MCs?
I have a MkV 30th anniversary and putting in a Gen 4 Coyote. The brackets on the brake MCs are wide so I can’t fit both on the first angle to the on the inside of the driver’s foot box. I don’t see yours in any of the pics.

[edwardb]

Where are you putting the MCs?
I have a MkV 30th anniversary and putting in a Gen 4 Coyote. The brackets on the brake MCs are wide so I can’t fit both on the first angle to the on the inside of the driver’s foot box. I don’t see yours in any of the pics.

No, I haven't mounted it yet. I'm taking the body back off sometime this weekend and then I'll mount it. I've discussed it several times in this build thread. This is what I posted on another thread:

I'm working on this exact topic right now on my Mk5 build. I have the Aluminator (Coyote) installed and recently dropped the body on temporarily. Things are so tight I didn't trust not having it there to make sure things fit. I used the Tilton reservoir on the Coupe build and after looking at several options, decided to use it again on the Mk5 build. Here's where I'm at right now.

My initial plan was to locate it where I have it on the Coupe. Inside the frame rail in front of the LH footbox. No room with the Aluminator to have it on the outside of the rail. While completely open on the Coupe (obviously) it is underneath the body here. Not terrible and I think I can work with it. My concern though is whether it's high enough. In this picture it's about 2" under the body lip. I don't want to go any higher. Once the body is back off, I can check more easily in relation to the MC's. I helped a local builder a while back where the reservoirs were too low and wouldn't feed to the MC's. Don't want that. Note in the picture I have a tape mark where the hood strut ends (easily cleared) and the actual distance from the rail to the body.

221814

I'm considering an alternate location if the above doesn't work out. On the diagonal tube on the outside of the footbox. It fits with OK clearance to the Aluminator and height isn't a problem. Access to the caps is slightly better with only one under the body. The hose routing to the MC's would be different and maybe not as direct. I checked for possible interference with the wiper box on that side and should be OK. I'm leaning toward the other solution. But I think this could work too.

221815

[Pete&Scott]

Is this thin metal piece that comes in the turn signal parts bag to be used? I see it in the picture on page 222 of the manual, but no further reference. It only fits the top part of the steering shaft but the boss will need to go down further than what this piece goes. This piece looks like it should fit up against the turn signal component.

223442

[QUOTE=edwardb;587747]Pretty light update this week. I installed the steering column along with the various U-joints. Not much to say. The instructions are detailed and clear. Part of what I installed can stay. A little will have to come out. When I receive the anodized aluminum panels (on the way!!) I’ll need to remove the flange bearing on the front of the footbox to install the panel and then put it back. I’m also waiting to see if the long shaft between the steering rack and footbox will get in the way when installing the engine. Previous Mk’s it was, but this one looks a little more tucked in. We’ll see. One piece of advice, check the button screws on the U-joints that retain the cross shafts. About half of mine were barely finger tight. I suspect the cross shafts are pressed in and won’t fall out without the screw. But don’t wish to take the chance. I removed all of them and put back in with blue Loctite and made sure they were properly tightened.

Now for the fun part of this update. The self-cancelling turn signal switch. I’m happy to see Factory Five is now making this part of the kit. Also happy to see it uses the Hot Rod connector on the RF harness which simplifies things. Including no longer needing the trailer converter. The very common Delco Remy switch has been successfully used on millions of GM vehicles. I did find installing it was a little challenging. Cut to the chase – I’ve got it working OK even though I almost gave up a couple of times. I posted in another build thread what I did for the installation so will mostly just copy that here. It's a bit "fiddly" but would be easier the next time because I have an idea what works and what doesn't. These are the takeaways for me. Maybe this will help others. Some (most?) probably obvious but FWIW.


The overall goal here is to get the turn signal switch exactly centered around the steering shaft. Keep that in mind the whole time.
If you haven’t already, clean up the steering shaft and 1” DD tube so that the steering shaft goes in without excessive force. Sometime it’s a matter of removing burrs or whatever. Sometimes necessary to lightly sand the steering shaft with Emory cloth until they go together but can still be easily moved/adjusted/etc. If you force it in (some do…) you’ll regret it later.
File the mating surfaces of the turn signal switch mounting bracket so it's flat against the chassis bracket and the turn signal switch. Mine had some bumps from where it was bent and every little bit affects how it aligns.
Install the middle 1” pillow block to the chassis along with the 1" DD tube that goes through it and the pillow block by the turn signal switch. That angle is part of centering the steering shaft through the switch.
A stack of washers is needed between the chassis bracket holding the turn signal switch and the pillow block underneath. How many, how thick, etc. will be determined by assembling and taking it apart multiple times (I lost track) to achieve the proper alignment. Tighten the bolts all the way to see what the actual alignment is. The supplied bolts were too short in my case.
I got the alignment close with the washer stack. But at least in my case wasn't 100% exact. I was able to fine tune it by loosening the three #10 screws holding the turn signal switch to the bracket and shifting it just enough. There's a bit of wiggle room there.
The angle on my mounting bracket was just slightly off. With the cams centered on the top spring they weren't exactly centered on the bottom one. In the bench vise and a couple blows with a small sledge and it was perfect.
Slide the cam piece on to check even alignment all around each time. My cam piece has quite a bit of weld on it (pictured) which I sanded off. But it turns out as long as the cams are clear, it will work OK.
Follow the instructions regarding setting the depth of the cam exactly. Properly set, the cams just brush both springs as the steering shaft is turning while the switch is off (centered) and should self-cancel each direction as you rotate the steering shaft. Note the GM switch has the "lane change" function as well. So you don't have to pull the stalk into self-cancel mode for lane changing. Nice.
I didn't have trouble getting the screw in that holds the stalk. Agree it's tight but nothing spun or whatever.
Last point, it would be possible to raise the height of the steering wheel with a different combination of washers/spacers potentially on both sides. I did what's shown in the manual. But variations are possible.

Pictures show what mine looks like now. Note the cam isn't in the right location in the first picture. That was taken right after I had everything together but no adjusted. Open questions: The hazard button on the side will end up behind the dash which is less than ideal. Not even sure it’s reachable or would pass some inspections. I’ve played with the wiring and with some more work expect to be able to break into the harness and install a dash switch. The turn signal stalk would need to be removed to install the dash. Which makes the retaining screw a little hard to reach. We’ll see on that one. I’m looking at a couple enhancements as well. I’m planning cruise control and will add the control to the end of the stalk. Also thinking about 3D printing a filler between the steering wheel hub and the dash. Since the polished aluminum piece that used to be part of this assembly is no longer being used. Busy week ahead and my wife has surgery next week (a new knee, long overdue...) so things may slow down a bit. But with the rest of my panels on the way, a bunch of drilling and Clecos are in my future.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217216&d=1754342620

[edwardb]

Is this thin metal piece that comes in the turn signal parts bag to be used? I see it in the picture on page 222 of the manual, but no further reference. It only fits the top part of the steering shaft but the boss will need to go down further than what this piece goes. This piece looks like it should fit up against the turn signal component.

That piece is a template to make the cutout for the turn signal stalk in the dash. It doesn't stay on the build.

[Pete&Scott]

Thanks. Another spot for FFR to give a bit more description in the build manual!!!:) P.S. Your build thread has been super helpful. FFR should work with you to use your pictures to update the build manual.

[edwardb]

It’s been a little while since an update. Busy holiday season so build time has been a little limited. Lots more winter weather than the last few years here in Michigan. Snow, ice, wind, you name it. That takes time too. Happy to own a decent snow blower. Although nothing like our fellow Michiganders up north. Warmed up enough that we didn’t have a white Christmas. But we’re back in the white stuff again to start the new year. Thankful for the warm garage shop when I have time to get out there.

My buddy and I took the body back off and it’s on the buck probably until time to go back on for actual fitting. It was really helpful to have it on during this stage of the build. Something I’d recommend for other builders if you have the space and time. With the body off, removed the radiator assembly and installed the mounting brackets for the expansion tank and the PS cooler onto the Breeze shroud. I’ve used the Derale 13310 cooler on all my builds with PS. Probably not necessary with how I drive the car. But it’s a cheap insurance and easy to install during the build. Mounted on the corner of the shroud it's not exactly in airflow. But still gives a measure of heat exchange and directly in line with the lines from the rack to the pump. The cooler is plumbed into the return line.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223472&d=1767277683

With the radiator temporarily out of the way, mounted the Artec Industries OY9251 battery mount and Odyssey PC925T battery. Not the battery mount that came with the kit (obviously) but this is a nice combination. Exactly the same as what I have in the Coupe. I don't have the newer frame setup allowing the battery to drop out the bottom. Which is basically mandatory if you have the power brake booster. Which I don't. Still, battery changes will be slightly challenging. Just like the Coupe, it will be necessary to take off the cold air intake and lift the battery out from the top. I’ve had to do it once on the Coupe and while a bit of a pain, not a big deal. Hopefully there are years between when that’s necessary. Two of the mounting holes in the Artec mount line up with the frame. New holes are required for the other two.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223471&d=1767277683

With that, mounted the radiator back onto the frame for hopefully the last time. Connected the upper and lower radiator hoses using Gates PowerGrip heat shrink clamps. Love those things. The manual shows using two mounting bolts through the radiator flanges at the top and bottom. The bottom is fine and straightforward. For the top, however, with the prescribed cushion material on the radiator top mount bracket, the radiator flange is right at the bend of the bracket and no way to drill for bolts. I briefly considered not using any top bolts because the radiator is tightly captured at that point and likely won’t move. But my conservative nature said it needs something. So I decided on one bolt in the center drilled through the top mount bracket and then a fender washer overlapping onto the radiator flange. Would have been OK. Except I just didn’t like the look of it. Too “kit car-ish” for me. (Can I say that?) Spent a little time in the shop and fabricated a bracket or clip (whatever) out of .090” aluminum that with a little rattle can black looks more like it belongs and locks down the radiator.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223474&d=1767277701

The brackets I made for the VMP expansion tank lined up well and seemed pretty OK. The lower center support rested on a chassis rail. But I decided a more positive attachment there would be best. So added a 1/4" nutsert and a bolt with 1/8” Neoprene washers. Very happy with how it’s mounted now. I still have a couple hoses to install for the expansion tank. But nearly done.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223473&d=1767277683

No more damage to do there, so moved to the Tilton 72-576 3-chamber brake and clutch reservoir. Many have asked where I was going to mount this since the Aluminator (aka Coyote) limits the location. With the body on, I decided to mount it on the inside of the side rail and established a height that would provide flow to the MC’s and also be reasonably accessible. As it turns out, the exact location as my Coupe. But it's wide open. For the Roadster, the body does overhang the caps somewhat. But there’s a couple inches of clearance above so the caps can be removed/replaced and the fluid checked. Fill will require a funnel or something similar. Not terrible. The reservoir has two 1/4" through-holes for mounting. So I put two 1/4" nutserts in the frame. Note the frame rail isn’t exactly level. So it’s necessary to measure the angles and offset them as appropriate so the reservoir is level. These two nutsert locations aren’t the easiest to access and install. Took my tightest 90 degree drills and the McMaster installation tool I use (https://www.mcmaster.com/96349A305/) to fit. The mounting bolts aren’t easy to install either. I used socket head bolts with washers and they’re OK but hopefully rarely if ever accessed. One hint about the nutserts. Another lesson from my airplane build where there were hundreds (literally) of nutserts. In addition to drilling the proper size holes and setting correctly, it was recommended to add red Loctite or JB Weld to the nutserts before pushing into place and setting. This provides added insurance to prevent them from spinning. Which is the worst case failure mode and in this case would have been nearly impossible to recover from. So I liberally coated these two 1/4" nutserts with JB Weld during assembly. Speaking of my airplane build, check N920PB on Flightaware.com. It’s got 9 flights to date. Very cool. Haven’t talked to the owner since it’s been airworthy. But hopefully will get an update soon. Ok, back to the build, picture of the brake reservoir mounted. The outlets on the reservoir are the same size as the inlet on my Tilton clutch MC. But larger than the inlets on the Wilwood MC’s. I’m going to use bulkhead fittings to pass the hoses into the footbox. I’ve ordered them with the proper diameters to match everything up. Should be here this weekend and will get the hoses installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223469&d=1767277683

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223470&d=1767277683

Finally, mounted the horns in the location and orientation shown in the build manual. I had previously moved the horn wires back several inches as described in the manual. Mounting and hookup very straightforward. Touched the harness leads to the battery and the horns honked. I think my wife was mildly impressed that the new car is coming alive. But wiring is just getting started.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223468&d=1767277605

Next up, work on the dash, gauges, wiring, etc.

[gaj17]

Hi, newbie to forum (Noted you are also a Michigander). I have a MK5 roadster which has been one issue after another (ordered it the day they released it). Do you have any experience with the steering column mounted turn signal and the vinyl dash? The turn signal is hidden behind the vinyl requiring the dash to be cut up for the paddle to come through. The hazard switch is totally hidden.

Gary

[edwardb]

Hi, newbie to forum (Noted you are also a Michigander). I have a MK5 roadster which has been one issue after another (ordered it the day they released it). Do you have any experience with the steering column mounted turn signal and the vinyl dash? The turn signal is hidden behind the vinyl requiring the dash to be cut up for the paddle to come through. The hazard switch is totally hidden.

Gary

Looks like you joined the forum some months ago but this is your first post. Welcome! Where in Michigan are you located?

Regarding the new to the Mk5 turn signal setup... I talked about it earlier in this post https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51545-EdwardB%92s-Mk5-30th-Anniversary-Build-Radiator-Expansion-Tank-Brake-Reservoir-Horn&p=587747&viewfull=1#post587747. So won't repeat most of that. I'm just getting back to it now. Started mocking up my dash yesterday. So i can't give you complete answers based on experience. The kit does include a template for where to cut the dash for the stalk to come through. That's maybe OK. But I've heard from other builders it's not easy to install the screw holding in place once the dash is on. I'm planning a little something different as i alluded to in the earlier post. We'll see how that goes. As for the hazard switch, literally just yesterday found out where it would be behind the edge of the dash. IMO not terrible. May go with it or may break out the wires to a switch on the dash. Not sure yet. Wish I could give you better answers but too soon for my build.

As for your comment about one issue after the other... Can't comment about that other than to say it's early in the Mk5 run. If the Mk4 is any indication, there will be continuous improvements. I built an early Mk4 and then a later one. Lots of improvements. There have already been several changes and improvements to the Mk5. But I will also add these are custom builds with a huge variation of parts that can be used and choices each builders make. So there are going to things to figure out. I'll leave it at that. If you have specific problems or questions, I'd encourage you to post about them in your own threads after searching in case others have posted about it. Also work with Factory Five support as appropriate.

[PNWTim]

Paul - you're progress is steaming right along. I have a question regarding your nutsert installation for the Tilton reservoirs. You refer to your shortest 90 degree bits to drill the holes but the 1/4" nutsert requires a fairly large hole (25/64ths or thereabouts). I have the Milwaukee M12 right angle drill bit and some stubby drill bits but I can't begin to think they would fit in that space. I am always on the lookout for tools that make those close quarter operations a little simpler.

[edwardb]

Paul - you're progress is steaming right along. I have a question regarding your nutsert installation for the Tilton reservoirs. You refer to your shortest 90 degree bits to drill the holes but the 1/4" nutsert requires a fairly large hole (25/64ths or thereabouts). I have the Milwaukee M12 right angle drill bit and some stubby drill bits but I can't begin to think they would fit in that space. I am always on the lookout for tools that make those close quarter operations a little simpler.

Hi Tim. I have a couple Milwaukee M12 right angle drills as well, and you're right, they won't fit in there. For this, I used my Chicago Pneumatic right angle drill that's relatively compact with stubby bits to get things started. When push comes to shove, I've been known to sacrifice a drill bit by cutting it off and only the bare minimum exposed out of the chuck. Probably I'm not the only one that does that. Once I had decent sized holes, I switched to this Milwaukee right angle drill attachment with a step bit. One of the sizes was just right for the nutserts I used. I've had this tool for awhile and looks like the model they're selling now (49-22-8510) is a bit different and not quite as compact. But still maybe would fit. Lots of similar tools out there from DeWALT, etc. Just need step bits that also have the 1/4-inch hex shank which many of them do. Then need a tool like the McMaster one that I linked to before to set the nutserts. Obviously the type with the big arms won't work. :rolleyes: Frank (i.e.427) posted a video on YouTube mounting nutserts in this exact location. He had a homemade nutsert tool that fit into the available space. Of course the simple solution, which I considered, was to drill through-holes from the other side and mount with regular bolts/nuts. Considered it, but like this cleaner approach.

223545

223546

[PNWTim]

Hi Tim. I have a couple Milwaukee M12 right angle drills as well, and you're right, they won't fit in there. For this, I used my Chicago Pneumatic right angle drill that's relatively compact with stubby bits to get things started. When push comes to shove, I've been known to sacrifice a drill bit by cutting it off and only the bare minimum exposed out of the chuck. Probably I'm not the only one that does that. Once I had decent sized holes, I switched to this Milwaukee right angle drill attachment with a step bit. One of the sizes was just right for the nutserts I used. I've had this tool for awhile and looks like the model they're selling now (49-22-8510) is a bit different and not quite as compact. But still maybe would fit. Lots of similar tools out there from DeWALT, etc. Just need step bits that also have the 1/4-inch hex shank which many of them do. Then need a tool like the McMaster one that I linked to before to set the nutserts. Obviously the type with the big arms won't work. :rolleyes: Frank (i.e.427) posted a video on YouTube mounting nutserts in this exact location. He had a homemade nutsert tool that fit into the available space. Of course the simple solution, which I considered, was to drill through-holes from the other side and mount with regular bolts/nuts. Considered it, but like this cleaner approach.

223545

223546

Thanks Paul. I kind of figured it was a combination of something similar. The step bit is a great idea. I don't have one of the smaller diameter ones but use my larger one all the time on panels and the like. I prefer it to a hole saw every time. I have seen those right angle attachments but could never decide if they were robust enough to be useful but I guess you answered that question. I will check out Frank's video as well.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Regarding the new to the Mk5 turn signal setup... I've heard from other builders it's not easy to install the screw holding in place once the dash is on. I'm planning a little something different as i alluded to in the earlier post. We'll see how that goes. As for the hazard switch, literally just yesterday found out where it would be behind the edge of the dash. IMO not terrible. May go with it or may break out the wires to a switch on the dash. Not sure yet. Wish I could give you better answers but too soon for my build.


I'll be interested in seeing how Paul deals with the turn signal stalk mounting. Agreed, once the dash is in place it's kind of blind and difficult to start and turn the screw so on mine I tapped the switch and installed an 8-32 stud with a dab of JB Weld. Now I can easily feed the stalk through the dash and onto the stud then reach up from below, install the nut and tighten it using a wrench.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223574&d=1767464361

As for the hazard switch; as Paul said it's not exactly convenient but isn't terrible. I put a longer screw on mine to make it a bit easier to grab behind the dash. Personally not much of a concern...on my old car I activated the hazards exactly one time over the course of 16 years when I stopped to help another owner who broke down during a group cruise.

Jeff

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[dr-sicel]

Next up, work on the dash, gauges, wiring, etc.

looking forward to seeing this - one my struggles is having confidence in placing something somewhere not knowing what might interfere with it at a later stage. I mocked up the rear harness which seems ok - looking forward to seeing how you lay everything out - fuse box (which I see you mounted), where each harness leaves the foot box area and/or behind the dash. I am having a hard time conceptualizing the room between the dash and firewall and where things come and go (one of the hazards of being a first-timer). I see how they run once outside that. Looking forward to seeing your usual detail pics of dash wiring and such!

[edwardb]

looking forward to seeing this - one my struggles is having confidence in placing something somewhere not knowing what might interfere with it at a later stage. I mocked up the rear harness which seems ok - looking forward to seeing how you lay everything out - fuse box (which I see you mounted), where each harness leaves the foot box area and/or behind the dash. I am having a hard time conceptualizing the room between the dash and firewall and where things come and go (one of the hazards of being a first-timer). I see how they run once outside that. Looking forward to seeing your usual detail pics of dash wiring and such!

Hang in there. I'll be diving into that area in earnest now that I have most everything else around it done. There's no one way. But I'll share mine. It will be similar to what I've done in the past. No surprise there.

[edwardb]

The bulkhead connectors arrived today and I have the hoses from the reservoir to the MC’s hooked up. Tight quarters to work in but got it done. I had the blue “Made in Germany” cloth covered hoses left over from a previous build. They came from Wilwood in MC kits and I hadn't use them. But glad I had them because they're more flexible without kinking than what came from Wilwood in this kit. So made the relatively sharp bends from the reservoir to the footbox front without extra long loops. Used what came in the current Wilwood and Tilton kits for the inside.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223584&d=1767495492

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223583&d=1767495492

In the same area, forget to mention in a previous update that I installed the LH header. These are ceramic coated GAS-N’s that came with the engine setup I bought. A few of the LH bolts are tougher to access than the RH, which I haven’t installed yet, but nothing compared to a Mk4 Roadster. Similar to the Coupe. No surprise. One gotcha though. The LH header won’t go in unless you remove the alternator. Not a big deal but kind of clumsy to get in and out, deal with the belt and tensioner, etc. Not pictured, but under the header I have the Speedhut water temp and oil pressure sensors installed. The Aluminator instructions say the engine must be primed with an engine pre-lube tank through the oil pressure port. The LS3 in my truck build also said that was required so I sprung for the tank setup and will take care of it when the time comes. This Aluminator calls for 5W-50 full synthetic. Not real common or cheap I’m finding out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223588&d=1767496044

Spent most of yesterday working on the dash attachment and mocking up my dash layout. On previous Roadster builds and the Coupe I spent a lot of time and effort on hidden dash attachments. I think this time around I’m going to lighten up a little and use screws through the top of the dash like most builders. I've never had to remove previous dashes. But I’m not convinced it would have been too easy. Or get them back on for that matter. For this build, I made five brackets out of 1 x 1/8 inch mild steel and mocking up where they would go. My first attempts out of aluminum broke easily. The bend is more than 90 degrees. Most know this, but if you put the dash screws directly into the dash hoop, they will likely get covered by the body. Plus the angle isn't exactly right. The brackets are attached to the underside of the dash hoop and lower the attachment point at the proper angle. I’m not sure I need five but just in case. Still more work to do to finalize, attach, etc. With the dash clamped in place, installed the seats and steering wheel and placed carboard cutouts for gauges and the glovebox. Which I will make again. I’m using the same layout as my previous Roadsters which I really liked. Sitting in the driver seat gives an idea for sight lines and not covering up with the steering wheel any more than necessary. This is very preliminary. Still not sure about switches and other controls. Also still not sure if I’m going to use the area below the dash edge down to the front transmission tunnel. The manual talks about dash supports between the lower edge of the dash and the 2x2 dash tube. Nothing like that in my kit. But they’re easy to make and likely I will do something custom anyway. Just getting started with all this.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223589&d=1767496185

On the way out tonight, snapped this picture of my build to date. A lot going on and lots of progress. Basically, six months in. Not as fast as some although seems faster than my previous builds. But not a race.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223582&d=1767495492

[Erik W. Treves]

Paul - I have to run 5-50 in all my builds - I found that O'Reilly's has a deal that if you buy 6qts of their castrol edge 5w50 you get about 50% each quart.... so I usually buy 12 and that allows me to by only 6 the next time.

just a thought - I know oil brands and owner preferences are funny sometimes - but I have been using it for a while now.

[edwardb]

Paul - I have to run 5-50 in all my builds - I found that O'Reilly's has a deal that if you buy 6qts of their castrol edge 5w50 you get about 50% each quart.... so I usually buy 12 and that allows me to by only 6 the next time.

just a thought - I know oil brands and owner preferences are funny sometimes - but I have been using it for a while now.

Thanks Erik. I'll check it out. Appreciate you following my build!

[dr-sicel]

One gotcha though. The LH header won’t go in unless you remove the alternator. Not a big deal but kind of clumsy to get in and out, deal with the belt and tensioner, etc. Not pictured, but under the header I have the Speedhut water temp and oil pressure sensors installed. \

in retrospect, would placing the header in the bay (w/some protector over it) prior to installing the engine have been preferable to R&I the alternator?

[edwardb]

in retrospect, would placing the header in the bay (w/some protector over it) prior to installing the engine have been preferable to R&I the alternator?

You could. But wouldn't be my choice. The Coyote is already a tight fit and takes some effort to get it properly positioned, dropped into place, etc. Trying to maneuver around the header in addition wouldn't be great IMO. My recommendation, and what I would do in the future if I ever do it again, would be to remove the alternator before installing the engine. Or not install in the first place if you're putting everything together. It's not part of the Coyote crate out of the box from Ford. Then add once the engine is in and the LH header installed. But having said that, don't want to overstate the difficulty of removing and replacing. It's very doable. Mainly I was just cautioning people that efforts to install the LH header with the alternator in place won't work. Just can't be oriented in the right way to go in around the footbox.

[MakoGT350]

One final observation and (I guess) looking for advice. With the seats up on risers, the 5-point anti-submarine belts are much too short. Bolted to the floor they would barely reach over the front of the seats. Not to mention how you would locate the belt for the drivers seat with the slider. I’ve always installed them but not sure what to do in this case. I could leave them off and for my nearly 100% street driving maybe not the worst. But not my first choice.

I was thinking about this question and I suspect I will run into the same scenario as I build my seats up a similar height. Did you consider bolting the anti-submarine belt to the frame on the bottom of the seat? I suspect that would be fine for the majority of the time.

[edwardb]

I was thinking about this question and I suspect I will run into the same scenario as I build my seats up a similar height. Did you consider bolting the anti-submarine belt to the frame on the bottom of the seat? I suspect that would be fine for the majority of the time.

Thanks for your comment. That's actually what I'm thinking about doing. Has to be a better choice than not using them. Haven't ruled out switching to Schroth ASM harnesses. Have them in my Coupe. But not a cheap option.

[Ramjet]

Paul,

Your build is moving along fast for 6 months! I have enjoyed following along with your progress and picking up pointers before I get to whatever step I’m on. I’ve basically followed the build manual, then immediately look back at your posts to see what you did, lol. This has been very helpful for me.

I’m planning on using the plastic bulkhead connectors that came with my FFR reservoirs, unless there is a know issue with those I’m not aware of yet? Would it be better to get the same ones you used, part #?

Thanks as always and happy new year,
Eric

[edwardb]

Paul,

Your build is moving along fast for 6 months! I have enjoyed following along with your progress and picking up pointers before I get to whatever step I’m on. I’ve basically followed the build manual, then immediately look back at your posts to see what you did, lol. This has been very helpful for me.

I’m planning on using the plastic bulkhead connectors that came with my FFR reservoirs, unless there is a know issue with those I’m not aware of yet? Would it be better to get the same ones you used, part #?

Thanks as always and happy new year,
Eric

Glad you find my ramblings helpful. I will add one more time that there's nothing absolute about a lot of this. It's my take on the build but not the only way. As evidenced by other build threads. Which I follow closely too.

Regarding your question, I have no issue with the bulkhead fittings FF provides in the kit. If they fit your build, use them. This is an example of how changes cause other changes. Sometimes not expected. I prefer separate front and back brake reservoirs plus I prefer a hydraulic clutch. That means three reservoirs. I like the reservoir FF provides, but there isn't room for three of them without running into the hood gas strut. I used the Tilton triple reservoir on my Coupe and like it. I looked at other options but ultimately came back to the Tilton shown here. I chose the one with the 5/16" hose barbs. Again, same as I used on my Coupe. I also decided to try a Tilton MC so put that on my clutch. The result of all of this was a mix of hose sizes. I could have used reducers to match everything up. But decided to use bulkhead fittings with the appropriate sizes on each side and not have separate reducers. They were available on Amazon. This is actually the first time I've used bulkhead fittings. Previous builds I passed the hoses through the footbox wall with grommets. Changed on this build for the reasons described. How's that for a long-winded answer?

P.S. If I ever do this again (who knows, right?) I would seriously consider the AN-4 version of the Tilton reservoir if I used it again. It would perhaps make the whole fitting matchup a bit simpler.

[edwardb]

Several areas of progress to report. Mounted the SiROCO #843H heater described earlier in the top of the RH footbox. The heater has four mounting bosses and came with the proper screws. I fabricated four tabs mounted to the underside of the chassis with two 3/16-inch rivets each. Makes for a neat installation and well up out of the way. I think most know this, but this is the same location where the optional FF heat/A-C unit is installed if you opt for that. This heater uses somewhat small 1-3/4-inch ducts. Those should route behind the dash OK. Two to the footwells and two to the defrosters. Maybe it's just my imagination, but the Mk5 seems to have more room behind the dash than the previous Mk's. Almost like the firewall forward mod is standard? I haven’t finalized the location of the Old Air Products 50-1555 heater value (pictured) but somewhere inside the footbox. This heater is rated at 20,000 BTU's and 175 CFM. Should be enough for the relatively small cockpit plus the heated seats shown previously.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223722&d=1767923824

Did some more work on the dash. Mounted the five tabs to the underside of the dash hoop with two 3/16-inch rivets each. Then drilled through the tabs and dash with 1/8-inch holes for now with Clecos. Still not 100% sure what the final attachment will be. Could be screws. Haven’t ruled out 3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener material. I have some left over from a previous build. That product is rock solid and I'm sure would have no issue holding the dash. My bigger concern would be getting it back apart if ever necessary. I’m aware of the recommendation to put the center mount in line with the stripe on the body. Obviously I don’t know exactly where that will fall at this point. Plus there are obstacles on the Mk5 in the center. We’ll see if I even need the center mount. It’s very solid with just four.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223723&d=1767923986

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223724&d=1767924031

Then made left and right dash supports. A narrow one for LH side and wider for the RH side. I’ve got them only clamped in place for now in case there are needed changes later. I’ll mount them with 10-32 nutserts on the dash lip and tap 10-32 screws into the 2-inch tube. Each will get a down light on the courtesy light circuit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223725&d=1767924089

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223726&d=1767924089

Last to report for now is the installation of the master disconnect. The kit came with a nice heavy duty switch that has four posts to also switch the alternator. It also came with a mounting bracket out of 1/8-inch aluminum. Not sure where it was supposed to be mounted since I can’t find it referenced in the build manual. But a moot point because I already planned to mount it in the upper area of the RH footbox. Same place as I have the switch in my Coupe and fits the power wiring layout that I’ve used on the last few builds. I cut a doubler out of the supplied mounting bracket.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223727&d=1767924186

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223728&d=1767924186

I bench bled the front and rear Wilwood MC's. All normal so far. I wanted to make sure the brake fluid moved OK from the reservoir to the MC's. Plus get fluid into the Wilwood MC's in case they do something weird like leak. I know that's never happened before. Not a definitive test until I bleed and get them under pressure. But a start. I need to get the hose from the clutch MC to the HRB. On my shopping list. Once that's installed I'll bleed everything at the same time.

I spent some time looking at options for the Coyote control pack components. Confirmed the PDB will go on the firewall centered behind the engine and the PCM on top of the frame rails in front of the RH footbox. This works the best for the harness off the engine without taking anything apart. I think I’m going to be able to hide the main harness from the PDB to the PCM. But we’ll see. Also, no surprise, I'll need to take the harness apart to get decent routing for the fan, starter, alternator, MAF sensor, etc. I’ve also been working on the turn signal switch and hope to have something to show in the next update.

[edwardb]

As most know, FF added a cancelling turn signal setup to the Mk5. I discussed it earlier in this build thread here: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51545-EdwardB%92s-Mk5-30th-Anniversary-Build-Heater-Dash-Master-Disconnect&p=587747&viewfull=1#post587747. So won't repeat all that. Once installed and working per the build manual, I looked for ways to address two aspects.

(1) I’m installing a Dakota Digital VCM-105 cruise control with a HND-1 handle in this build. The kit provided stalk, in addition to being challenging to install with the dash in place as some report, isn't conducive to installing the stalk mounted cruise control handle. Side note, Jeff Kleiner showed in another thread that he added a threaded stud in the switch and installs the kit supplied stalk by reaching around and securing with a nut. Nice idea.

(2) Less than ideal location of the hazard button under the lower edge of the dash. It’s integral to the turn signal switch and eliminates the hazard switch wiring that has tripped up some builds in the past. I have considered breaking out the wiring to a separate switch. But now that I have the dash mocked up, I’ve decided it's not terrible and I’m going go with it as is for now. The rest of this post will be about aspect #1 above.

I ran across a Facebook post where a builder designed a mod for the turn signal that I found very interesting. What I’ve done borrows several key ideas from this approach. I want to make sure to give credit where credit is due. There’s discussion about whether this might be offered for sale. But there haven’t been any updates for some time. Rather than linking to Facebook, here’s a screenshot of the post:

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The genius aspects of this mod IMO is the stalk and switch action are leveraged off the steering column. Much more robust I think than hanging the kit provided stalk directly off the switch with the 2-inch forward offset. It also provides a way for me to mount the stalk at the steering column with the cruise control handle, although I did it differently than shown and much simpler. My fabrication skills aren't quite up the level of what's shown in the Facebook post.

First part was the center hub. I fabricated this from 1-inch thick 6061 bar stock left over from the transmission spacer shown earlier. Times like this I wish I had a lathe. That would have made quick order of this piece. There were multiple steps which I won't list. But mainly I made it by spinning it against my disk sander and then polishing since it would be visible next to the steering wheel hub.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223775&d=1768097260

Next made the actuating arm out of 1/8-inch 6061 and attached to the hub with 6-32 flathead screws. Also drilled and tapped 5/16-18 threads into the hub and used red Loctite to lock a piece of a 5/16-18 long set screw into the hub. It’s located in the proper position and angle for the Dakota Digital HND-1 handle. I had to knock the threads off just slightly (only where they’re exposed) to fit the ID of the handle. Later I added two flat spots for the set screws from the handle. I included the kit provided stalk in the pictures for comparison.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223780&d=1768097287

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223779&d=1768097287

Finally, made a piece of steel stock to extend the actuator on the turn signal switch. The pivot is a 10-32 socket head screw with a spacer. I had to replace the kit supplied screw with a countersunk screw to avoid interference.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223778&d=1768097260

Finally put it together.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223777&d=1768097260

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223776&d=1768097260

I still have some work to do fine tune. Even though the switch is now more positively and directly actuated, it’s still relatively stiff. I don’t think that’s going to change. Maybe better than before although not a huge difference to be honest. But it works as expected and accomplishes my goals. The dash is about 3/8-inch behind the stalk/cruise control handle at the hub. Then angles out. I'll planning to make a trim ring for around the column. For appearance and also to fill the dash opening that doesn't exactly match what I have now.

[rickshank]

Nice work, Paul! The patience of turning down round stock without a lathe is commendable. As the son of a machinist, buy a lathe :) There are plenty on Facebook, just limited by your space, desires, and wallet. I'm waiting for the right vertical mill to come up.

[edwardb]

Nice work, Paul! The patience of turning down round stock without a lathe is commendable. As the son of a machinist, buy a lathe :) There are plenty on Facebook, just limited by your space, desires, and wallet. I'm waiting for the right vertical mill to come up.

Thanks. I cut the hub almost to the round lines using a bandsaw. So getting it fully round and finished wasn't that bad. But I agree a lathe would have been much quicker. Used to have a wood lathe back in my woodworking days. I would love a metal cutting lathe (and a vertical mill for that matter) just not sure how often I'd use them.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Well executed Paul! Appears that the wheel ends up farther rearward, but that position is a matter of personal preference.

Jeff

[edwardb]

Well executed Paul! Appears that the wheel ends up farther rearward, but that position is a matter of personal preference.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff. I'll have other pictures posted at some point showing the wheel in relation to the dash. It feels fine when I sit in the seat. But you're right. All are personal preference and lots of flexibility especially with the Mk5.

[PNWTim]

Pretty nice solution. I'm in the same camp as you with the mill and lathe but I think you only need to use them once on something to have that Aha! moment of "why didn't I do this 20 years ago". That was the experience I had with my mini split.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Thanks Jeff. I'll have other pictures posted at some point showing the wheel in relation to the dash. It's about as close to the dash as I would want and feels fine when I sit in the seat. But you're right. All are personal preference and lots of flexibility especially with the Mk5.

Agreed, unless the builder changes the Mk5's higher and less vertical wheel position it's going to feel different from the earlier roadsters even without it being moved rearward by an inch or so. This looks to move the wheel about the same amount as the Russ Thompson and Frank/I.E.427 switches.

Again, well done.

Jeff

[MakoGT350]

Did some more work on the dash. Mounted the five tabs to the underside of the dash hoop with two 3/16-inch rivets each. Then drilled through the tabs and dash with 1/8-inch holes for now with Clecos. Still not 100% sure what the final attachment will be. Could be screws. Haven’t ruled out 3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener material. I have some left over from a previous build. That product is rock solid and I'm sure would have no issue holding the dash. My bigger concern would be getting it back apart if ever necessary. I’m aware of the recommendation to put the center mount in line with the stripe on the body. Obviously I don’t know exactly where that will fall at this point. Plus there are obstacles on the Mk5 in the center. We’ll see if I even need the center mount. It’s very solid with just four.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223723&d=1767923986


Then made left and right dash supports. A narrow one for LH side and wider for the RH side. I’ve got them only clamped in place for now in case there are needed changes later. I’ll mount them with 10-32 nutserts on the dash lip and tap 10-32 screws into the 2-inch tube. Each will get a down light on the courtesy light circuit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223725&d=1767924089

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223726&d=1767924089




As always - really appreciate the level of detail that you share, thanks!

Couple of questions - from someone using the plastic/vinyl dash with the glove box...
Are the five tabs included in your kit? are they for that style dash?
I see you said you made the supports for the bottom the dash - seems like a good idea and I can think of no reason why it would not work with my dash, can you?

Finally, I like the install of the cut off switch, I found the vague nature of the instructions on this frustrating, but ultimately put it on top of the p/s footboy with the switch inside the "cabin"

[MakoGT350]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223776&d=1768097260



WOW! Really nice execution of the concept! Seriously, that is a nice solution!

[edwardb]

As always - really appreciate the level of detail that you share, thanks!

Couple of questions - from someone using the plastic/vinyl dash with the glove box...
Are the five tabs included in your kit? are they for that style dash?
I see you said you made the supports for the bottom the dash - seems like a good idea and I can think of no reason why it would not work with my dash, can you?

Finally, I like the install of the cut off switch, I found the vague nature of the instructions on this frustrating, but ultimately put it on top of the p/s footboy with the switch inside the "cabin"

Thanks. I struggle with the amount of detail to provide. I could do more (trust me) but suspect it would be too much. Try to provide enough without going too far overboard. For your questions -- no, those angles for the dash aren't included in the kit. I have the plain metal dash. I don't have any experience with the plastic/vinyl dash so I can't provide any advice for the brackets or the bottom supports. Sorry. They're not complicated parts so shouldn't too hard to come up with something that fits your situation.

[Ramjet]

Paul,

Thank you for your build posts! For me, please feel free to provide all the details you like, especially when it comes to your wiring plan. I have some mechanical skills, but when it comes to electrical I am completely lost. I suspect you will have a very well planned out wiring diagram for this build as you have done for others. I would love a copy if you wouldn’t mind sharing, as I am doing a similar build with some of the same parts.

Thanks again for the advice on the DS header, I will be putting in the Aluminator soon, just waiting on my lift plate to arrive, I realized that the stock side lift mount is too wide for our frames. I’m still not excited about taking off the CJ intake on a brand new engine, but I think it has to be done, and I think you mentioned it wasn’t that bad.

As far as the FFR reservoirs, for those that follow your build, I was able to get all 3 inside the triangle space in front of the DS footbox, it fits*, but barely. You have to overlap the reservoir brackets and the rear most bracket will overhang the top footbox cover. I’m still able to remove the top cover by lifting the rear of the cover and sliding back from under the bracket, but I haven’t confirmed with the body on yet. The front most reservoir is just under 3-1/2” above the top frame tube, hopefully there is enough height there, but I also want to make sure gravity will feed the MCs. I found some pre-anodized aluminum on Amazon that matches the FFR black panels pretty close and bent at a 90 degrees with a slight angle to level the reservoirs. I will permanently mount from underneath the top tube once the engine is installed.

Eric224077224078224079224080

[Ejzajac]

Wonderful to see that the FFR reservoirs can squeeze in that space with a Coyote base engine! I was contemplating having to use the Tilton triples. I suspect access with the body on will have some challenges, but nothing a mirror and filling tube can't conquer. These builds seem to always have a compromise.
Ed Z

[edwardb]

Paul,

Thank you for your build posts! For me, please feel free to provide all the details you like, especially when it comes to your wiring plan. I have some mechanical skills, but when it comes to electrical I am completely lost. I suspect you will have a very well planned out wiring diagram for this build as you have done for others. I would love a copy if you wouldn’t mind sharing, as I am doing a similar build with some of the same parts.

Thanks again for the advice on the DS header, I will be putting in the Aluminator soon, just waiting on my lift plate to arrive, I realized that the stock side lift mount is too wide for our frames. I’m still not excited about taking off the CJ intake on a brand new engine, but I think it has to be done, and I think you mentioned it wasn’t that bad.

As far as the FFR reservoirs, for those that follow your build, I was able to get all 3 inside the triangle space in front of the DS footbox, it fits*, but barely. You have to overlap the reservoir brackets and the rear most bracket will overhang the top footbox cover. I’m still able to remove the top cover by lifting the rear of the cover and sliding back from under the bracket, but I haven’t confirmed with the body on yet. The front most reservoir is just under 3-1/2” above the top frame tube, hopefully there is enough height there, but I also want to make sure gravity will feed the MCs. I found some pre-anodized aluminum on Amazon that matches the FFR black panels pretty close and bent at a 90 degrees with a slight angle to level the reservoirs. I will permanently mount from underneath the top tube once the engine is installed.

Eric

You're welcome. Enjoying the build and also enjoy sharing and getting feedback. I won't have an actual wiring diagram. But what I have done with all my builds is put together a spreadsheet with all the circuits, their connections, etc. With separate sheets for each major part, like the RF harness, Coyote, power, etc. I have the spreadsheet for this build done to the point I will start wiring. May have some changes along the way. You're welcome to a copy if you think it would be helpful. I can't share it on the forum, but if you PM your email address I can send it as an attachment. For the CJ intake, it comes off real easy. Back on is easy as well. The only caution is in the Aluminator instructions it gives the torque instructions for the mounting bolts. Seemed important to follow those. :p


Wonderful to see that the FFR reservoirs can squeeze in that space with a Coyote base engine! I was contemplating having to use the Tilton triples. I suspect access with the body on will have some challenges, but nothing a mirror and filling tube can't conquer. These builds seem to always have a compromise.
Ed Z

I like the Tilton piece, but these builds are about personal choices. With the reservoirs mounted on the tube as I did and shown in this most recent post, the edges of the caps will be just about even with the body opening. I doubt you'll need a mirror. But a funnel or something similar most likely.

[edwardb]

Making progress in several areas. Although not much installed on the chassis yet, I’ve got my Coyote control pack layout basically decided. To start, I mounted the PCM on top of the chassis in front of the RH footbox cover. Used 1/8-inch aluminum strips with 1/4-inch nutserts and some neoprene cushions. The strips are held with 1/4-inch bolts tapped into the chassis. This location is well positioned for the harness from the engine and the harness from the PDB based on how I’m planning to route it. The PCM and the harnesses will be mostly under the body.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224460&d=1768865025

The expansion tank requires three hose connections. I still need to install the 3/4-inch hose from the bottom of the tank to the “T” on the engine. Standard heater hose and easy when I get some. The other two are now complete. One connection goes to the top LH corner of the radiator. I removed the valve that came with the radiator and replaced it with a Gardner-Westcott J9033 3/8-inch hose barb to pipe fitting. The hose is a Ford FR3Z-8075-G overflow hose cut to length. This is the one that has an internal check valve at the tank. It’s stupid expensive for what it is. Around $70 was the best I could find. There’s some question about whether the check valve is needed. But it’s part of the Ford engineered setup so I’m staying with it. The purpose, as cited on the forum some years ago, is to allow air to escape from the top of the radiator but prevent reverse flow from the expansion tank when more pressure is in the tank than the radiator.

The next connection goes to the water neck on top of the engine. Ford has a hose for this too. But I tried to order one before and it wasn’t available. It’s nothing particularly special and likely it wouldn’t be the right length so made may own before and did again. But two gotchas. First, the barb on the tank is 3/8-inch. The barb on the water neck is 5/16-inch. Before I used two sizes of hose and a reducer. Second, the barb on the water neck points straight up. Super trivial, but not the best look with a hose routed off it and exposed with the Aluminator. On the regular Coyote, it’s hidden under the engine cover. So I went down a rabbit hole. We do crazy things, right? I removed the water neck and pulled out the stock barb. It’s just pressed in and twists out when clamped in a vise. Then tapped the hole with a 1/8-27 NPT tap. The hole in the water neck is slightly undersize for this, but the aluminum clears out OK once started. This makes a whole bunch of chips. No way would I try it without removing the water neck. Then installed a 1/8 NPT x 3/8-inch barb 90-degree fitting and put the water neck on the engine. It uses an O-ring and with a new engine and no coolant pretty easy. Back out of the rabbit hole. Result? Clean look and the same size hose end-to-end.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224462&d=1768865056

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224463&d=1768865056

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224461&d=1768865056

Ordered power steering hoses and fittings from Breeze and received promptly as usual. I’ve used these exact parts on multiple builds and they’re perfect. Not much to say. Made up the hoses including routing the return line through the cooler mounted on the radiator shroud. I checked the proper connections at the rack multiple times. Not something you want to get backwards. Lower small connection is high pressure and goes to the pump outlet. Upper larger connection is the low pressure return line. Once all installed, filled with KRC PS fluid, removed the belt, and spun the pump with my impact driver. It’s the only tool I have with enough grunt plus the right socket for the nut on the pulley is a direct connection. The pump primed in a few seconds. Topped off the fluid again and kept turning the pump while my wife turned the steering wheel back and forth. All seems to be working normally and no leaks so far. Calling it good for now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224466&d=1768865074

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224464&d=1768865056

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224465&d=1768865056

Routed a 24-inch -4AN line between the Tilton clutch MC and the line out of the bell housing for the Tilton HRB. Used a pressure cap on the reservoir to bleed. After the major bubbles stopped I had a hard clutch pedal. The clutch is disengaging. With the trans in gear I can’t turn the rear wheel. With the clutch in I can. So that’s good. Still getting a small stream of bubbles so I’m not positive it’s completely air free yet although it feels right and is working. I’ll probably try a two-person bleed when I can get some help just to be sure. I haven’t bled the brakes yet. They’re next.

Final note. This past Saturday our club, the Great Lakes Cobra Club, had an open house and garage session at our place. Don't drive our cars during the Michigan winters (especially snowy this year) so why not? This is the third time as I recall we’ve had a similar winter session. Great turnout and lots of interest in the Mk5.

224469

[edwardb]

Today I completed bleeding the brakes. No teasers – hard pedal, they work, no leaks so far. Lots of forum bandwidth about bleeding brakes and clutches with some having issues. Maybe I’ve been lucky, but I haven’t found it that difficult and usually get everything working in a couple hours. Including time spent cleaning up wayward brake fluid. Try to keep it neat but not easy. Man, I hate that stuff. Most of what I’m sharing here isn’t new. But lots of new builders it seems so FWIW this is what works for me.

My process, which I’ve used on all but one build, is pressure bleeding. The one exception was the truck build. It had a Wilwood dual master cylinder with integral reservoirs. Not conducive to the process I've used on everything else. Back when we could get CNC reservoirs, I bought a CNC pressure cap. With the Tilton reservoir I’ve used on a couple builds now including this one, I bought a spare cap (they’re available separately) and put a Schrader valve on it and it works the same as the previous CNC cap.

The concept is simple. First, bench bleed the MC’s. Not actually on the bench. I think most know the process. I’ve heard some skip this step when pressure bleeding. But I’ve done it each time and it’s not hard. In addition to getting air out of the MC, confirms it's working and fluid is flowing properly from the reservoir. Found a problem for me once and also once with a friend I was helping. Then, using the pressure cap, put 6-8 PSI in the appropriate reservoir, go around to each bleeder, attach a hose, open the valve into a jar, and let it run until no bubbles. Some are scared about putting pressure into the reservoir. Agreed too much might be an issue. I’m able to turn the regulator down on my compressor to get the desired pressure. I use my digital tire inflator so I can see exactly how much pressure is in the reservoir. Watch the fluid level in the reservoir as you go. Don’t let it go empty or you’ll be starting all over. It’s also necessary to keep charging the air pressure. Don’t push the brake pedal down at any time during the process.

I think most know the sequence. Bleed farthest to closest. RH rear, LH rear, RH front, LH front. If your calipers have top and bottom bleeders (like Wilwood) always use the top ones. The optional Wilwood IRS brakes, like on this build, have bleeders on both the inside and outside calipers. Bleed the inside first then the outside. I’ve seen some describe issues with the double MC Wilwood pedal box and recommendations to bleed each side, e.g. front and rear, at the same time. I haven’t found that necessary. Maybe it is with other methods.

That’s about it. I do the complete sequence twice. First time, typically lots of bubbles and usually necessary to add more fluid and pressure while doing each bleeder. But run until no bubbles. Then I go back around and repeat the process. Typically will get a few remaining bubbles or a small stream but quickly runs clear. With that, a hard pedal this time (again) and all seems good. I held the pedal down for a couple minutes. It didn’t move and no signs of any leaks so far at the Wilwood MC's, brake lines or fittings, calipers, etc. I’ll keep watching it just to be sure. One of the reasons i do it at this stage of the build is everything is relatively open and easier to access if something needs to be tweaked.

One final comment about the high-end equipment I have for this process. The pressure cap I already mentioned. I have a small Ball jar with some plastic tubing and the appropriately sized wrench. I don't usually have that much fluid in the jar during the process. This just happened to be at the end was I was done. I’ve used Valvoline DOT 3/4 synthetic in all my builds. Fancy new artwork on the bottle since the last time I bought it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224656&d=1769227649

I’ve also started work on wiring and first up is power wiring. I’m almost exactly duplicating what I’ve done on my last couple builds. So, nothing new here. Not much to show yet, but here’s a little. I use the marine power cables sold by the foot at West Marine. A little pricey but very flexible and high quality. For the main power off the battery, I use 2 gauge cable and Fusion terminals. These are pre-filled with solder and flux. With the terminal in a vise, heat with a torch and push in the stripped end of the cable. Lots of YouTube videos. I’ve found them to be rock solid. The Taylor 20670 covers give a clean look and are a tight fit on the 2 gauge cable. I have the battery ground attached to the frame with a 3/8-16 bolt into a tapped hole. The powder coat is removed to bare steel under the entire terminal lug. The power cable goes to the master disconnect on the RH footbox wall pictured previously. Temporarily held with tie-wraps for now. Eventually it will get wrapped and held with cushion clamps like the ground cable. Note after I took this picture, I lifted off the power cable. No reason to have it attached and the battery is alive as I may have found out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224657&d=1769227738

One final comment about making up cables. I shared this a couple builds ago but will again because it works so well. I bought this YQK-70 hydraulic crimper on Amazon several years ago. It’s still available and less than $40. Crazy. There are other similar ones. I’m able to get very nice crimps on all the large cables used for power. There are a couple examples showing in this picture. These will get triple wall adhesive shrink sleeve over the crimps and onto the cable. Typically around 1-inch pieces.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224658&d=1769227738

Much more work to do. But it’s a start. Next up I’m going to tear into the Coyote control pack harness and starting finalizing and routing everything. After that the RF harness.

[PNWTim]

You know, not all of us can have cool, high end tools like you but we still get by! :p I am curious if you have any idea if the Tilton cap would fit on the F5 billet reservoirs? I have been trying to find a cap to convert, but not had any luck. I bought the same crimping tool 6 years ago and it works like a champ. I have used it with 10-gauge wire and up.

[Ejzajac]

Paul,
I'm relying on your build expertise as I move forward. Your power steering connection modifications look really clean and tidy!
I see some builders use a Fuse Block Terminal on the positive battery pole or an AMG style fuse on the positive circuit.
Perhaps you are using a high amp fuse system closer to the master disconnect?
What are your thoughts?

Ed Z

[edwardb]

You know, not all of us can have cool, high end tools like you but we still get by! :p I am curious if you have any idea if the Tilton cap would fit on the F5 billet reservoirs? I have been trying to find a cap to convert, but not had any luck. I bought the same crimping tool 6 years ago and it works like a champ. I have used it with 10-gauge wire and up.

LOL. I like my tools. Ask my wife. But sometimes simple gets the job done. I have the kit supplied reservoir that came with my Mk5 kit. Tried the Tilton cap on it tonight. The cap is the same diameter. But the thread pitch is different. The FF reservoir is a finer thread. The cap goes on about 3/4 turn and that's it. Maybe sealing at that point but not sure and less than ideal.

[edwardb]

Paul,
I'm relying on your build expertise as I move forward. Your power steering connection modifications look really clean and tidy!
I see some builders use a Fuse Block Terminal on the positive battery pole or an AMG style fuse on the positive circuit.
Perhaps you are using a high amp fuse system closer to the master disconnect?
What are your thoughts?

Ed Z

Thanks. I'm not in the camp that puts a fuse on the main battery power. I don't have any data but suspect not many do. For me it's (1) a safety issue as I don't want the car to become immobilized at possibly a bad time, and (2) all the circuits downstream from the main power are protected either by fuses or circuit breakers. With the exception of the starter itself which is a direct connection. For that, see point 1.

[Ejzajac]

Thanks again for your valued opinion.
Just put an order in for YQK-70 Crimper. Even better, a special price on Amazon!

Ed Z

[PNWTim]

LOL. I like my tools. Ask my wife. But sometimes simple gets the job done. I have the kit supplied reservoir that came with my Mk5 kit. Tried the Tilton cap on it tonight. The cap is the same diameter. But the thread pitch is different. The FF reservoir is a finer thread. The cap goes on about 3/4 turn and that's it. Maybe sealing at that point but not sure and less than ideal.

Thanks for testing. It's a bit of wild goose chase trying to find a cap that fits and F5 won't sell just a cap. I like pressure bleeding as it's easy to control and can be done with one individual which is nice. I have been testing every juice, milk, antifreeze and other caps trying to find a winner but so far it's a no go. I am guessing it is a metric thread and pitch but I don't really have any way of confirming it (at least that I can think of).

[Papa]

LOL. I like my tools. Ask my wife. But sometimes simple gets the job done. I have the kit supplied reservoir that came with my Mk5 kit. Tried the Tilton cap on it tonight. The cap is the same diameter. But the thread pitch is different. The FF reservoir is a finer thread. The cap goes on about 3/4 turn and that's it. Maybe sealing at that point but not sure and less than ideal.

Paul,

This cap from Motive is a perfect fit for the FFR reservoirs:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224775&d=1769474859

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224774&d=1769474859

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q6UHQK?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_3

[edwardb]

As I’ve said previously, I applaud that Factory Five has added a conventional turn signal switch to the Mk5 versus the dash mounted toggle switch that many of us replaced. In addition to the obvious upgrade to have an actual self-cancelling turn signal, it results in simpler wiring using the Hot Rod connection to the RF harness and eliminates the trailer converter. However, also as I said previously, I wasn’t super excited about the stalk they provided for actuation plus I wanted a better way to integrate the cruise control I’m installing. I described a significant modification to the kit supplied turn signal in post #286. With the actuation mod, I was successful with the cruise control addition. The action was better but still very stiff.

Over the past days, I’ve been in contact with Mike Everson who fabricated a similar mod as the one I did. Liberally copied from a Facebook past as I mentioned before. He too found the action still quite stiff. We started a discussion about a better AC Delco switch as the one provided appears to be a knock-off. After some research, I’m nearly certain that there aren’t actual AC Delco manufactured switches available any longer except on a few sites, like EBay, that are selling NOS switches at relatively high prices. As we all know, knock-off parts have a wide quality range. We both found and ordered a D6262D switch on Amazon. Looks like it would fit. It comes in an AC Delco box. The words in the listing suggest it’s approved by AC Delco but not specifically an original part. I suspect it’s also a knock-off. But since AC Delco is putting it’s name on it, maybe higher quality and would work better?

Mike received his first a said it appeared to be better quality without as much flex when it switched but hadn’t installed it yet as of the last time we communicated. I received mine today and installed it. Agree with Mike the moving parts are tighter with less flex. Physically it appears the same and fits on the FF mount exactly the same as the kit part. The wires are all the same colors so I assume wired the same. It does have two additional wires that appear to be for the horn button on the switch. Interesting maybe.

Now that’s installed and I’ve exercised it a bit, I’d say it’s “better.” Still a bit stiff but an improvement. Honestly I was hoping for more, but I’ll take it. I’d give this mod a C+ or maybe a B- if I'm in a generous mood. If you want a bit of an improvement or the kit supplied piece needs to be replaced, definitely go with this one. I suspect, but can't confirm, if you use the kit supplied stalk without the mod like I did, it would switch better than the kit supplied switch because it has much less flex between the moving parts.

I’ve messed with that turn signal enough. Finalizing a trim ring and I’m done with it. Back to routing the Ford Performance control pack harness.

224778

Update February 2026 for those following along: The connector on the replacement GM switch requires some trimming on each end to fit into the RF harness connector. Not a major issue and easy to do but be aware. The wires are in the proper locations so no changes once the two connectors fit together. I added a tie wrap around both just to make sure they stayed together.

[rickster991]

I’ve been looking for a trim ring as well. What will you be using?

[Pete&Scott]

Papa. Thanks for the cap post. I too was looking for one of those. I also like your three reservoir mounting setup. Did you make that, and if not, where did you purchase?



Paul,

This cap from Motive is a perfect fit for the FFR reservoirs:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224775&d=1769474859

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224774&d=1769474859

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q6UHQK?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_3

[Papa]

Papa. Thanks for the cap post. I too was looking for one of those. I also like your three reservoir mounting setup. Did you make that, and if not, where did you purchase?

Check out Snakebite Motorworks (https://snakebitemotorworks.com/).

[edwardb]

I’ve been looking for a trim ring as well. What will you be using?

Ok, back to my build thread. Today I completed fabricating the trim ring. Made from 0.063" aluminum and polished. Now I really am done with the turn signal setup.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224804&d=1769562262

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224805&d=1769562262

One more diversion. I've mentioned my airplane build several times and I promise this is the last time. I just updated the thread I started a couple years ago in the "other build" section with the final status and finished pictures. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?45961-My-Journey-to-the-Next-Project-Sling-TSi-Build&p=601502&viewfull=1#post601502

[edwardb]

An often used expression is “How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time.” Well, that thought process applies to wiring these builds. “How do you wire a Factory Five build? One wiring branch at a time.” Otherwise, it’s easy to get overwhelmed. At least for me. My overall approach for wiring, and applies to the entire build, is start with the parts that are fixed or not easily changed. Then work through the steps, in progression, that are more flexible. I’ve already installed the front and rear Ron Fancis harness legs as previously shown. The ends are dangling in the cockpit area ready for connection to the main harness.

Now I’m working on the Coyote harness. The engine I’m installing is an Aluminator 52XS as already repeatedly shown. It's a hand built version of a Coyote and uses a Coyote control pack. So, for purposes of my updates I’ll call this a Coyote harness. Note that any EFI setup will have similar components with a lot of the same considerations. But this will obviously be specific to the Coyote. First up is deciding where to put the Power Distribution Box (PDB) and Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Those are going to determine much of the harness routing.

I’ve already shown the location I chose for the PCM. On top of the chassis rails in front of the RH footbox cover. This provides a direct connection to the large harness off the RH front corner of the engine. Ford puts the PCM for the Mustang in this general location so explains why the engine harness is configured that way. This location, as I’ll show, also provides a good option for the control pack harness leg back to the PDB. Some mount the PCM elsewhere, e.g. at or in the firewall, behind the dash, etc. This requires re-routing the harnesses on top of the engine which include injectors, sensors, throttle body harness, cam phaser harness, etc. It's apparently not difficult but I’ve chosen to stay away from that. Also moving the PCM can result in extra control pack harness length. Can be dealt with but I’d rather not.

For the PDB, my choice for Coyote builds is on the firewall. The Factory Five instructions show mounting it on top of the RH footbox and even give you a bracket for that. I don’t like that location especially for recent builds with HVAC components because that top cover needs to be removable. For the Coupe, the cover can be split which might help a little. But for the Mk5, the cover needs to stay intact. Plus there’s the matter of cable length (again) with it over there. For both the PCM and the PDB, another reason for my locations is to maximize accessibility. Buried in or behind the dash doesn’t help. Especially the PDB which has replaceable fuses and relays.

OK, now that I’ve offended about half the Coyote builders out there (we all build it our way, right?) let’s talk about the wiring harness itself. My Aluminator 52XS uses a Gen 2 (15-17) M-6017-504V control pack. Although my engine just came out of the crate, it’s a few years old. I was curious if that was still the case. This exact engine is still available and per the Ford Performance website, still uses the same Gen 2 control pack. I’ll describe a few changes I made to the control pack harness. But may not apply to later Gen 3 and Gen 4 harnesses that most are using now. The Gen 1 and Gen 2 engines have the connections for the O2 sensors on the engine. So no O2 connections on the control pack harness lake later versions. That's just one of the differences I noticed. For the main branch between the PCM and the PDB, I removed all the convolute and pulled the fan and start wires back to the PDB where they connect more efficiently. I also removed the EPAS wire, loose CAN bus wires, and the supercharger cooler wire. With all this out of the branch, I re-wrapped the smaller diameter with Taylor Flexbraid and American Autowire harness tape. I suspect I may make a couple changes on the cockpit side of the harness. But I’ll save that until working there. Side note, since this is a Gen 2 control pack, back to the PCM manufactured by Continental. The company I retired from. They used to be made in Sequin, Texas. Don't know if they still are. Later generation PCM's are from Bosch. Apparently more complex with the addition of direct injection plus the marketplace is very competitive.

I looked at several options for routing the harness branch between the PCM and PDB. On my previous Coyote builds, I routed that portion along the firewall, top corner of the RH footbox, and then the outside of the frame rail. Kind of hides back there and the length works OK. However, for the Mk5, either the footbox is higher or the firewall is lower. Because with the harness there, it was getting tight for the Specialty Power Windows wiper motor assembly I'm using. Fit with ease on previous builds. Plus the Mk5 footbox top has a 90-degree bend that fits against the firewall which also would get in the way of the harness. I looked at options to put the harness inside and came up with a solution that I’m pleased with.

Here’s where I entered the top corner of the RH footbox. The outside wall is temporarily in place in this picture.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224918&d=1769892730

Then along the underside of the frame rail, turned to the dash rail, and through the transmission side tunnel piece. It may not be obvious in this picture, but the harness on the underside of the dash rail as shown is well above the sight line with the dash in place. Effectively hidden. This also shows how I threaded the harness through the panels. Drilled a hole for the grommet, cut out just enough to slide the cable into the hole, then split the grommet and pushed into place. What doesn’t get covered by overlapping pieces will get sealant as needed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224923&d=1769892769

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224924&d=1769892769

This is pretty much the entire PCM and cable attachment configuration. I cut the (ugly…) convolute off the harness leg from the engine and gave it the same Flexbraid and harness tape treatment. More flexible plus looks better. Note I’ve checked and everything clears the front splash guard and hood gas strut. Most of this will be inside the fender. Only the very end of the PCM extends past the hood outline. The smaller harness routed over the top is for the MAF sensor and alternator. I'll route that around the engine and to each respective location. The length provided is about right. One other comment while pictured and I'm thinking about it. I was told by an automotive engineer that those large block-type connecters used for the PCM are only rated for around 20 insert/remove cycles. I only put them in and lock in place when I think they're going to stay. Don't do it unnecessarily. On my airplane build (OK, there's that subject again) the engine controller had the same style connectors. The engine manufacturer recommended that each time the connectors were cycled to make an entry in the engine log book. Obviously monitoring the same thing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224920&d=1769892730

Next up I mounted the PDB in the firewall area using two 1/4x20 nutserts. The harness to the inside goes under the chassis rail. Nothing at this point through the actual firewall. Still need to mount the megafuse included with the control pack and bring the power out from the master disconnect on the RH transmission tunnel shown previously. I'm planning to add a center cover on the X-frame area. Same as I did on the Coupe.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224921&d=1769892730

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224922&d=1769892730

At this point, looks like I will have extra cable length on the inside of the cockpit. The simple ones I can shorten if necessary. Probably won't get too aggressive with the one large branch from the PDB. There's plenty of room to coil the extra length under the upper cover if necessary. Still trying to decide if I want to add lower transmission tunnel covers. Looks like Brent at Snakebite Motorworks has this figured out. So will get from him if I go that way. Next up I'm going to finalize the power, starter, and PDB wires from the battery. Then start laying in the RF harness. One branch at a time, right? :p

That's it for now. A lot of words and not a ton of actual work progress. But I thought it might be useful for some to describe the thought process behind what I did. Lots of way to do this.

[edwardb]

Today I finished the majority of the power wiring from the battery, through the engine compartment, and back to the cockpit. It would have been easier with the engine not blocking everything. But that was the risk I took installing the engine early. One the other hand, having the engine in place allowed me to be sure of how everything fit. Definitely a trade-off. Pictures are a little busy. Hopefully they are good enough to see what I did.

For the chassis and Coyote power, I basically copied exactly what I did on the two previous Coyote builds. Starts with the front mounted battery and targets the master disconnect in the RH footbox side. These are the runs and wire sizes I installed:


2 gauge red from the battery positive to the unswitched side of the master disconnect.
4 gauge red from the unswitched side of the master disconnect to the Coyote 250 amp megafuse and on to the PDB. Being on the unswitched side with the main positive battery cable keeps the Coyote system on all the time. This is per the Ford Performance instructions to save settings, DTC’s, etc. It’s very low current draw when off. I haven’t noticed it affecting battery storage life enough to be a concern. 4 gauge cable and the 250 amp fuse seems like massive overkill for the Coyote. But that's how Ford Performance says to set it up. And we always do what we're told.
4 gauge red from the switched side of the master disconnect back to the starter.
6 gauge red from the switched side of the master disconnect to a bus bar behind the dash to power the RF harness.
Two 4 gauge black for engine grounds to the chassis. RH side from under one of the starter bolts to the frame. LH side from an open threaded hole in the block to the frame. I received advice years ago that EFI engines are extremely sensitive to ground so doubling up on grounds provides insurance. Overkill? Probably. But can’t hurt. I prefer cable for the ground wires. But flat braid works too.

All of the above have size specific lugs from DelCity.net crimped in place with the hydraulic crimper shown earlier except for the soldered Fusion brand battery terminals. All crimped connecters have triple wall adhesive shrink sleeves. I wrapped the starter power and small start wire to the main 2 gauge positive power wire and attached to the main frame rails with padded clamps. I had previously installed the starter so was able to place the two connections to the starter in the right location.

Here are some pictures that show most of this, starting with the positive and ground 2 gauge cables at the battery. I showed this picture previously but put it here for continuity. The positive cable is now wrapped up to the tie wrap in this picture replaced with a padded clamp. The negative cable is attached to bare metal (powder coat removed) on the frame with a 3/8-16 bolt in a tapped hole.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224657&d=1769227738

Cable back to the starter where the two leads are attached.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225115&d=1770169094

Now on the back side of the starter (RH side looking forward) showing the RH ground to the frame and the main power leg starting up to the master disconnect.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225113&d=1770169094

Engine ground on the LH side. Also visible here are the two hydraulic lines out of the bell housing for the Tilton HRB. Bled and working.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225114&d=1770169094

Master disconnect with the cables attached per the above list. Note: This is a 4-post disconnect that came with the kit from Factory Five. Appears to be a robust piece. The extra pair of posts are to provide separate alternator switching. Some engines can keep running on alternator power alone with the ignition key switched off. Plus required by some sanctioning bodies. The computer controlled Coyote simply won't run unless there is +12V on the control pack Ignition Relay Trigger wire. This is one of the interface points to the RF harness. Typically the RF ignition switch controlled EFI wire is attached to it. Key off, no voltage on the EFI wire, the Coyote PCM shuts things down. So I'm not messing with separately switching the alternator.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225116&d=1770169094

Finally, mounted the megafuse and power wiring to the PDB.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225117&d=1770169094

Still have some wires to finish up in the engine compartment (sensors, gauge wires, etc.) but for the most part that's it for the Coyote wiring in front of the firewall. Still this to deal with in the cockpit. After a bit more organization, going to introduce the rest of the RF harness and keep chipping away. Also going to get started on the dash since there's more wiring to connect there.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225118&d=1770169113

On a separate note, with the starter and wiring in the area completed, installed the RH header. Sure is nice having access to all the bolts compared to the LH side! I also dropped in the O2 sensors. The LH side is fine. Matches up with the connection on the engine OK. The RH side, on the other hand, the O2 lead is about 12-inches too short to reach. On my 20th Anniversary Roadster, which was also a Gen2 control pack like this one, I extended the harness to reach the O2 sensor. I think this time I'm just going to buy an extension. They are widely available since switching from stock to long tube headers is a common Mustang mod which also requires extensions. Note if you get the urge to DIY extend wires for the O2 sensors, only extend the engine harness wires. They're standard hook-up wire. Don't mess with the O2 sensor pigtails. Not sure what it is, but typically not standard copper hook-up wire. Not easy to work with and nearly impossible to solder. Ask me how I know that. Also strongly discouraged by the manufacturers.

On yet another separate note, I bought a Power Probe a couple builds ago. Ended up not taking the time to learn how to use it and did most of my wiring since with a standard VOM. I decided to give it another try. I'm liking it. Anything to help this wiring process more efficient. Onward!

[Ejzajac]

Paul,
Your detailed explanations and quality pictures make the Coyote wiring process much less intimidating!
Thank you again.
Ed Z

[RobHartley]

I too thank you for your detailed posts with pictures. I study every post and picture in detail. Also some of your parts additions keep getting adding to my build - everytime I see something I am out googling it then deciding if I want/need to add it. Cheers!

[flight_83]

With the Tilton triple reservoir a regular bike tire pump also works well if you put a rubber diaphragm under the cap and poke the needle through the small hole in the caps. just wanted to throw that out there for anyone.

[Ramjet]

Paul,

Can’t wait to watch your first start, must be around the corner now!!

I also very much appreciate your detailed explanations and pictures of this entire build.

Quick question on your wiring, do you use all 4 posts on the master disconnect? And also, when you add your own wires to the looms for backup lights, trunk lights, heater unit, seats, etc, do you use a specific gauge and/or amp rating? Is there a brand of wire you recommend?

Thanks again,
Eric

[edwardb]

Paul,

Can’t wait to watch your first start, must be around the corner now!!

I also very much appreciate your detailed explanations and pictures of this entire build.

Quick question on your wiring, do you use all 4 posts on the master disconnect? And also, when you add your own wires to the looms for backup lights, trunk lights, heater unit, seats, etc, do you use a specific gauge and/or amp rating? Is there a brand of wire you recommend?

Thanks again,
Eric

Thanks. First start will be a while yet. I'm not one to rush with temporary wiring or whatever. I'll have everything buttoned up before then. Wiring completed, dash completed, etc. I have the Coyote wiring up to the cockpit as shown in my last update. But still more work there. I tore into the RF harness today. Will be making a number of changes to accommodate my build plan plus best fit. Also started the instrument panel today. First start will also include side pipes. I see guys doing open header first starts. Did that once for the last time. It's deafening and just plain violent. One of our sons was home at the time and commented I really must not like my neighbors. He had a point.

For your questions, I described the 4-post switch in my last update. Maybe check it again rather than repeat here? Gauge of added wires depends on the current. You listed a pretty wide variety. Lights, all LED in my build, 18 gauge is plenty. Heater and heated seats 16, maybe even 14 again depending on the current draw. I don't have a hook-up wire preference. Generally get what's available at the local auto parts store.

[edwardb]

With the Coyote control pack wiring in the area, today I dropped the Ron Francis harness into the chassis. Bolted in the reinforced fuse panel, then the fuse panel and then placed the various harness legs in their approximate locations. The goal was to plan how the two harnesses would be installed. I extensively modified the RF harness on my Coupe build. I wasn’t planning to do the same on this build. But after staring at a for a while, decided I just wasn’t going to be happy with it as is. So took all the convolute off and dove in. Already have removed and rerouted several wires. Lots more to do. Look away if you’re squeamish.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225156&d=1770262382

Amazing already how much better it’s going to fit. Before going any further, I’m going to finalize the dash and then custom fit the various harness legs to fit. Like the headlight switch, ignition switch, front and rear harnesses, etc. Just barely started getting serious about the dash tonight.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225157&d=1770262382

My goal will be something like what I did with the Coupe. This is the finished wiring in my Coupe. Main harness across the top of the firewall and everything routed directly. This isn’t for everyone and I’m not necessarily recommending it unless you’re 100% comfortable. The standard harness will work as is.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101283&d=1548528941

I have a couple of modules for this build to place but not as many as shown in the Coupe. Probably also will do some mods to the Coyote harness to optimize that fit as well.

[PNWTim]

Looks really good Paul, neat and tidy. I think due to the one size fits all category the RF harness falls into, modifying it is really beneficial. It's also amazing how much easier it is to work with once the convolute is off. Since every wire is labeled regularly, modifying it is relatively straightforward. Although I totally understand why some would choose not to.

On a side note, for some reason, I had it in my head you weren't going DGD on this build but maybe I am confusing this with another build?

[edwardb]

Looks really good Paul, neat and tidy. I think due to the one size fits all category the RF harness falls into, modifying it is really beneficial. It's also amazing how much easier it is to work with once the convolute is off. Since every wire is labeled regularly, modifying it is relatively straightforward. Although I totally understand why some would choose not to.

On a side note, for some reason, I had it in my head you weren't going DGD on this build but maybe I am confusing this with another build?

The picture at the bottom of the post is my Coupe. I put there as an example of what I'm going for with the Mk5 Roadster. I was afraid it would be confusing... Added another note to clarify.

[PNWTim]

Well, that stands to reason. The funny part is, when I looked at that picture I was like "man, that is almost identical to his coupe build" :p. Just shows how many times I have referenced your build thread.

[edwardb]

I like the competition (S/C) dash layout and have used a version of that for my Roadsters tweaked some to get the best sight lines through the steering wheel. I ordered the blank aluminum dash for my Mk5 kit, which I will leather wrap, and now have the holes cut for the Speedhut gauges that came with the 30th Anniversary kit. The tach and speedo used a 4” hole saw which is nearly perfect when the thickness of the leather is taken into account. The other gauges used a 2” hole saw but then had to be enlarged a bit. With the dash set back on the chassis, the sight lines confirmed again and all good. Also confirmed my plans for the headlight switch, ignition switch, horn button, etc. Thinking of putting the headlight low/high beam switch over on the LH side of the steering wheel. Not sure yet. I’m not adding indicators for the turn signals or high beam. The Speedhut speedo has them already. Did the same thing on the Coupe. I found they were a little on the dim side but still OK. Initial test of these new gauges shows they may be a bit brighter. We’ll see.

I’m also not putting the Coyote MIL on the dash. I have on my previous Coyote builds. But it has this annoying habit of slightly glowing even when things are OK. For this build, I’m going to leave the indicator Ford Performance mounted next to the ODB2 port. The port assembly will be mounted on the diagonal tube in front of the RF fuse panel as I’ve done before. From there, if the MIL lights it will be visible from the driver’s seat. Five seasons with the Coupe and it hasn’t ever lit. I've checked multiple times with a scanner just to be sure. Hope to continue that.

I’m thinking about adding a switch panel between the dash and the upper transmission cover for the heater, wipers, etc. Going to mock up something in cardboard and see if that’s really what I want. Otherwise, they will go on the dash. Still have a glovebox to make. Note for these pictures I don't have the steering wheel all the way on. Just enough to check things without having to get out the puller. It will be closer to the dash when finally assembled.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225225&d=1770396035

Lots of work remaining to sort out the wiring behind the dash. No work done yet other than throw it all back there.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225224&d=1770395977

[edwardb]

Another week since my last update. Lots of non-building stuff going on but have spent some time on the build. Especially the last couple of days. I’ve made decisions about several things plus made some progress.

Decided against doing a switch panel below the dash like the Coupe. So decided where the balance of switches and knobs will go on the dash and drilled accordingly. I have everything that will go on the dash on-hand and sorted. Only open item is the knobs for the wipers, heater temp, and heater fan don't match. Can't have that! For the Coupe I had some standard metal knobs laser etched with the appropriate symbols. Maybe will do something like that again. All three are standard 6mm/1/4-inch shaft size, so have options. I made a tray that will go on top of the upper transmission cover to mount various components and will show in the next update when it’s further along. I could have mounted things directly onto the upper transmission cover. But I also wanted to fill the area between the bottom of the dash and the tunnel cover. It just looked unfinished to me with that open. Added benefit is that it braces the dash nicely and everything would lift out more easily if I had to remove the dash. It turned out to be more work than I expected. We’ll see if it was worth it. Only thing left on the dash is to fabricate the glovebox.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225613&d=1771040714

As I planned to do, I made a new lower transmission cover. The pre-cut hole wasn’t close and I’m not a fan of installing a fill piece. Hard to hide under anything other than perhaps carpet, which I'm not doing. Further complicated because some of the hole required for the shifter was in front of the factory hole. Honestly, FF should just leave that hole out. We can cut holes for gauges but not a shifter? I also reversed the overlap between the upper and lower transmission covers so the lower cover can be removed without removing the upper cover. Involved adding a piece to the upper cover and not having one on the new cover. This is the new cover ready to be leather wrapped and finished. Not pictured, but the Vanson Leather shift and e-brake boots supplied with the 30th anniversary kits are super nice. Did a quick check on the fit and put them back in the box for final assembly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225612&d=1771040714

I mentioned decisions. Here are a few. I’m for sure doing leather on the dash and transmission covers. After some searching, ordered a half-hide from the Leather Hide Store. Arrived this week and looks good. Decent match to the leather seats and door cards. I ordered, received, and installed a BBK 12-inch O2 extension for the RH O2 sensor. Nice part. Mentioned in a previous update that the stock Ford connection didn’t reach. After a lot of staring and thinking, decided how I’m going to route the heater hoses into my heater. I ordered and received a Vintage Air manifold and four 90-degree connections. This will allow me to route hoses with the electric heater valve inside the footbox. It's all pretty tight and I didn't want to try to bend the actual heater hoses as much as would have been necessary. I’ll post pictures when completed. Related to that, bought some 1-3/4 inch heater/defrost hose material. That's the size of the outlets on the heater I installed. Not a real common size but I'll make it work. I'm planning to 3D print the defrost duct ends. I have a file I can modify to work. I hope. So far, I think I'm going to have room to route the hoses behind the dash. Installed a piece of 3/4-inch heater hose between the bottom connection on the VMP pressure tank and the Aluminator. Other than the heater hoses, everything related to engine cooling is good to go. For insulation on the aluminum panels, my go-to on previous builds has been Lizard Skin. I still want to do that on this build. But I absolutely positively won’t do it in my garage. On an early build at our last house (sorry new owner) that stuff went everywhere including speckling the walls on the other side of the garage. In spite of all the masking and tarps I did. Since then I do it on a giant tarp outside on my driveway. But that takes warm weather and this winter in Michigan has been anything but warm. I suspect we're a couple months at least to go. So for now, I’m going to put Damplifier Pro on the inside of the footboxes, the firewall, and anywhere else that wouldn’t be easy to mask with all the wiring and etc. installed. There are lots of choices (and price points…) for insulation materials. Damplifier Pro is not one of the cheaper ones. But I’ve used it before (a bunch in my Coupe) and I like it a lot.

I showed an alternate ACDelco switch for the turn signal in an earlier post. Not a game changer but seems a little more robust and works a bit better. Mechanically it’s a direct fit. But while working on wiring this week, I found the connector is slightly different than the Hot Rod connector on the RF harness. It’s necessary to do a little trimming on each end for it to go into the RF connector. I’m going to add a tie wrap around both just to make sure they stay together. The wires are correct so nothing to do there. It’s not a big deal but just wanted to point it out. I also put a similar note back on the post where the different switch is shown.

Because I tend to fabricate parts for my builds, I typically have to buy additional aluminum or whatever. I’ve used a couple mail order sources in the past. But with higher shipping prices in effect now, I’m finding sometimes the shipping cost for sheet aluminum is as much or more than the material. We have an Alro Metals Outlet store in the area and I’ve gone there in the past to root through their remnants and sometimes score some major savings. Did that again this week and found everything I needed for the two parts pictured above plus my glovebox. Also I’m making a fill panel for behind the engine on the cross braces. The remnant aluminum sheet is $4.00 a pound and I got way more than I needed for a great price. I told me wife I had enough to make similar parts for a couple more builds. All I got was side-eye. Hmmm.

Finally, totally off topic. Mind if I brag a bit and show some grandparent pride? This past weekend our oldest grandson Kyle graduated from the U.S. Navy's Nuclear Power School in South Carolina. Considered the most academically demanding school in the U.S. military. What a journey it’s been for Kyle over the last few years. Graduated university with a degree in mechanical engineering. Recruited by the Navy to be a nuclear engineer. Accepted after rigorous interviewing and testing. Graduated from Officer Candidate School in Newport, Rhode Island which we were privileged to attend. Now a year later another huge graduation and milestone. After a few more months of additional training he will finally report to base. It hasn't been easy (nobody said it would be!) but his hard work and dedication is inspiring. We couldn’t be prouder. He’s got some cross country driving to do over the next months and I’m going to go along and help for some of it. Looking forward to it. He’s a great kid and I enjoy spending time with him.

OK, now I'm done.

[PNWTim]

Looking good Paul. I have always thought that dash layout was good looking and sort of classic at the same time. I feel very fortunate that I have a Metalsupermarket pretty close by. They have everything a guy can want and will cut anything exactly to size for no charge.

That's quite a roadmap of success your grandson has been on. Sounds like he'll be running a nuke boat sooner rather than later. I would be tooting that horn as well!

[Blitzboy54]

Congratulations on your grandson’s achievement. My brother was a Navy Nuke. It’s definitely one of the most challenging career fields in the military. Absolutely no wiggle room for mistakes.

[Mike.Bray]

Congratulations to your grandson and a proud grandpa! Quite an accomplishment.

[edwardb]

I said in yesterday’s update I would provide more details about what I’m planning for wiring. So here goes. Again, much of this is drawing from my experience with the Gen 3 Coupe build. No surprise since the Mk5 Roadster has many similarities.

To refresh, here are the components of the electrical system from my build plan. Kit supplied Ron Francis harness, kit supplied ACDelco style turn signal and hazard, Gen 2 Coyote control pack harness (that’s what the Aluminator uses as I mentioned before), Speedhut 30th Anniversary gauges, Dakota Digital DBW cruise control, ididit headlight controller, Specialty Power Windows wiper system, washers, space heater with electronic bypass heater valve, master disconnect switch, and added circuits for DRL’s, backup lights, TKX neutral safety switch, heated seats, auxiliary and USB outlets, and a trunk light. Plus, I’m adding a glovebox.

I’ve complete mockups and I’m confident all will fit. Not without planning, trial and error, and modifications where necessary. This includes the 1-3/4" heater ducts required for each footbox and the defrosters. The Coupe doesn’t have cruise control. But it does have a DGD keyless module and a T-56 reverse module. Otherwise, it’s similar. It all fits although it does have slightly more room. The Mk5 Roadster has the large upper transmission cover just like the Coupe where I mounted many of the components. So I duplicated that approach. I fabricated a new piece to sit on top of the upper transmission cover, as I mentioned in the last update, that also fills the gap between the transmission cover and the lower edge of the dash. Looks more finished IMO plus provides support for the dash. Today I completed a rough layout of what I’m planning to put there. I put just enough in the dash to see what I had to work around. This picture is messy but hopefully gives the idea.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225649&d=1771107666

Across the top (just behind the dash) left to right is the auxiliary outlet, circuit breakers for the heater, USB outlet, cruise control, and auxiliary outlet, and the USB outlet. On the main shelf, again left to right, a bus bar for grounds, a bus bar for battery power, the ididit headlight module, the Dakota Digital cruise control module, and a bus bar for ignition controlled power. Not shown but will be added on the RH side are a relay required for the cruise control and another relay for a headlights on chime. Something I have on all my builds. Obviously all this needs to be tied down and wired. But I think this is how it’s going to go.

One could argue the ididit module may not be necessary. The kit now supplies LED headlights and a decent latching high/low beam switch that can carry the lower current of the LED’s. But I prefer this approach because it provides electronic switching that can be used with most any headlights plus a flash-to-pass function. I personally hate people doing that to me. But sometimes I may need to use it. :rolleyes: My dash will have a momentary switch on the LH side dash behind the turn signal stalk for high/low beam switching. For the Dakota Digital cruise control module, I wanted to put it somewhere that was visible and accessible. It’s a highly configurable device with a display for codes, status lights, etc. But this was the best I could do. Fortunately, they also provide an app that communicates with the module via Bluetooth and the instructions say everything that can be done directly on the unit can be done through the app. Hopefully that’s true.

This is a picture of the front of the dash to show what I installed along the bottom edge.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225647&d=1771107666

Left to right, a pushbutton for the Speedhut “Zero Dimmer” module that sets day and night gauge brightness, a pushbutton for the speedo to reset the trip odometer and also cycles through the added Speedhut functions, the USB port (has a Type-A and two Type-C, all high speed), and a traditional auxiliary port. Useful for things like heated blankets or jackets plus whatever. But mainly I wire these directly to the battery circuit and plug in my battery minder and smart charger there when needed. I’ve done this on all my builds and it’s super handy. High current charging or jump starting would still need to go directly to the battery. But in practice hopefully not something that happens very often.

Finally, here’s a picture of the dash supports I made. This is the LH one. The one on the right is a little wider since it’s not limited by the steering column. I’ve got small 3-LED Maxxima downlights installed for footwell lighting via the courtesy light circuit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225648&d=1771107666

I said modifications early in this post and that includes the Ron Francis harness. I’ve talked about this before. It’s a universal harness and can be successfully installed as-is. Especially if wiring isn’t your thing. I don’t want to give the impression that what I’m doing here is required for a successful build. It may end up looking a little cluttered behind the dash. But it works and is perfectly OK. Reference the disclaimer statement I made way back in post #55. But in order to get everything in that I'm planning it’s necessary to make some changes. I started by removing all the convolute from the main harness and adjusting the routing to fit my configuration. Then I adjusted harness lengths as appropriate. With the changes I’ve made harness lengths get much shorter and that’s one of the biggest advantages. So far, I’ve tracked 12” off the headlight harness, 12” off the ignition switch harness, 18” off the rear harness, 12” off the main power leads (aka starter solenoid leads), alternator lead completely removed and I’ll directly route from the alternator to the master disconnect (changed from what I said previously), 12” at least off the radio/heater/wiper harness, and 12” at least off the coil/EFI/speed sensor harness. Plus, I’m saving space by eliminating the front and rear harness connectors. I’ll splice them directly to the main harness. Probably the same for the remaining connectors except the dash harness. I'll leave those connectors so the dash could be removed if ever necessary. I'll wrap or tie-wrap the harness back up once finalized. All this adds up to major space savings and makes the installation neater. YMMV. Proceed at your own risk.

At this point, I’m going to detour before going any further with the dash and finalize the Coyote control pack wiring. Currently all the behind the firewall wiring is coiled up under the upper transmission cover. I need to figure out the best way to route those last harness pieces to make sure everything fits together. It will likely involve some harness modifications as well. Then I'm going to fabricate my glovebox, leather wrap the dash, install the gauges, and get them all wired. Then everything should be ready to start fitting together for good. But I also need to take some time out to do my taxes. Never quite sure how that will turn out. Just need to get it over with.

[PNWTim]

Looks like a good plan. I have a couple of questions regarding the DD CC. I was going to use circuit breakers for my wipers and the AC/Heater. I was not planning on using one on the CC but I see you are going to, as well as a relay. So, I guess two questions - are you using the circuit breaker just to protect the module (which makes sense) and are you using the relay to prevent possible turn signal feedback as indicated in the installation manual?

I am going to use the VSS signal from the T-56 harness (which my speedo is also using) and I thought I might use the purple tach wire after tapping into one of the coil pack signal wires. It doesn't seem like the OBD is the way to go but curious if you have a different opinion. My understanding is the Coyote PCM can't/won't provide some of the data (like a speed signal or RPMs) but maybe your setup is different? Either way, I look forward to following along.

On a different note, I like your brace. I was planning something similar since I have a grab handle instead of a glove box and want to make sure the lower portion of the dash is secure.

[edwardb]

Looks like a good plan. I have a couple of questions regarding the DD CC. I was going to use circuit breakers for my wipers and the AC/Heater. I was not planning on using one on the CC but I see you are going to, as well as a relay. So, I guess two questions - are you using the circuit breaker just to protect the module (which makes sense) and are you using the relay to prevent possible turn signal feedback as indicated in the installation manual?

I am going to use the VSS signal from the T-56 harness (which my speedo is also using) and I thought I might use the purple tach wire after tapping into one of the coil pack signal wires. It doesn't seem like the OBD is the way to go but curious if you have a different opinion. My understanding is the Coyote PCM can't/won't provide some of the data (like a speed signal or RPMs) but maybe your setup is different? Either way, I look forward to following along.

On a different note, I like your brace. I was planning something similar since I have a grab handle instead of a glove box and want to make sure the lower portion of the dash is secure.

For the CC, both the circuit breaker and the relay are what I've gleaned from reading the manual. I'm out of circuits from the RF fuse panel, so I'm routing the CC module power through a 10 amp breaker powered by the ignition bus bar. The manual says a relay "may" be required along with the the brake pedal switch if you have LED brake lights. Which I do. So I'm going to preemptively install the relay and be done with it. Easier now than going back later if it turns out it's required. Judgement call. I'm also using the VSS input for the CC. But will be the only use since my Speedhut speedo uses GPS and doesn't need the VSS. With the crate motor performance pack, the CAN bus (accessible at the ODB port) has engine RPM but does not have vehicle speed. My plan is to use VSS for vehicle speed (the only option, has to be calibrated) and not use the CC's RPM function. So I'm not planning a connection to the ODB port. If I did, I would hard wire it. The CC I installed in my truck build did need a connection to the ODB port and it wasn't a big deal. I use my scanner quite a bit and didn't want to block the port connector.

Not sure what you're planning, but I installed the lower clutch switch on the Wilwood pedal box for the CC. (In addition to the usual Coyote switch up on the MC.) There's an input for that. So either brake or clutch pedal will cancel. Also, I'm putting a small LED indicator next to the speedo. The CC manual describes an indicator light so I'm going to wire it in. Not clear if it's just a power on indicator or that it's on when the CC is active. I hope it's the latter but we'll see.

[Papa]

Looks like a good plan. I have a couple of questions regarding the DD CC. I was going to use circuit breakers for my wipers and the AC/Heater. I was not planning on using one on the CC but I see you are going to, as well as a relay. So, I guess two questions - are you using the circuit breaker just to protect the module (which makes sense) and are you using the relay to prevent possible turn signal feedback as indicated in the installation manual?

I am going to use the VSS signal from the T-56 harness (which my speedo is also using) and I thought I might use the purple tach wire after tapping into one of the coil pack signal wires. It doesn't seem like the OBD is the way to go but curious if you have a different opinion. My understanding is the Coyote PCM can't/won't provide some of the data (like a speed signal or RPMs) but maybe your setup is different? Either way, I look forward to following along.

On a different note, I like your brace. I was planning something similar since I have a grab handle instead of a glove box and want to make sure the lower portion of the dash is secure.


For the CC, both the circuit breaker and the relay are what I've gleaned from reading the manual. I'm out of circuits from the RF fuse panel, so I'm routing the CC module power through a 10 amp breaker powered by the ignition bus bar. The manual says a relay "may" be required along with the the brake pedal switch if you have LED brake lights. Which I do. So I'm going to preemptively install the relay and be done with it. Easier now than going back later if it turns out it's required. Judgement call. I'm also using the VSS input for the CC. But will be the only use since my Speedhut speedo uses GPS and doesn't need the VSS. With the crate motor performance pack, the CAN bus (accessible at the ODB port) has engine RPM but does not have vehicle speed. My plan is to use VSS for vehicle speed (the only option, has to be calibrated) and not use the CC's RPM function. So I'm not planning a connection to the ODB port. If I did, I would hard wire it. The CC I installed in my truck build did need a connection to the ODB port and it wasn't a big deal. I use my scanner quite a bit and didn't want to block the port connector.

Not sure what you're planning, but I installed the lower clutch switch on the Wilwood pedal box for the CC. (In addition to the usual Coyote switch up on the MC.) There's an input for that. So either brake or clutch pedal will cancel. Also, I'm putting a small LED indicator next to the speedo. The CC manual describes an indicator light so I'm going to wire it in. Not clear if it's just a power on indicator or that it's on when the CC is active. I hope it's the latter but we'll see.

Dakota Digital's GPS-50-2 module could be an option to drive the cruise control as well as non-GPS speedometer. Also, based on what I'm reading in the VHX gauge manual, the cruise control indicator is triggered when active, not just a power indicator.

https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=837/mode=prod/prd837.htm

[UKSNAKE]

Hi Eric, I would like to recreate your design for the reservoirs. It looks just liek what I wanted to do do. Have you put the body on yet? Do you have the details of the aluminium you got from amazon please.

[edwardb]

Hi Eric, I would like to recreate your design for the reservoirs. It looks just liek what I wanted to do do. Have you put the body on yet? Do you have the details of the aluminium you got from amazon please.

????

[edwardb]

I’ve been jumping around a lot working on a number of details but mostly without enough progress to report. Two things made the cut for this update.

I mounted the Specialty Power Windows WWK2 wiper mechanism on the firewall. This is the third build where I’ve used this system. Fits easily in the Coupe. A little more work on the truck build going around the corner and mounting in the footwell. For this build, back on the firewall but it’s a tight fit. They provide a universal mounting bracket which in each case I've cut up for mounting brackets on each end. I use vibration damping mounts from McMaster (where else?). They’re pretty stiff but can’t hurt and make mounting relatively simple. I located the mechanism as far as I could to the right to fit between the footbox top cover and the bulb seal on the top of the firewall. The instructions say ideally there’s 4-inches of straight tube before bending to engage the wiper arm wheel boxes. This location provides just over 6-inches and based on estimated locations, should be a pretty straight shot.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225966&d=1771864301

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225967&d=1771864301

Initially, I wasn’t planning to install a firewall tunnel cover. But after staring at it long enough decided I wanted to install one after all. Note to others. Don’t do what I did. Decide up front about this. I managed to get the cover installed but it wasn’t fun or particularly easy with the engine and related in the way. I fabbed it to fit the opening and with cutouts and holes as required. Same as I did on the Coupe. Rather than taking this and a couple other late arriving parts out for powder coat I sprayed them rattle can satin black. My favorite paint for this is Steel-It 1012D polyurethane. I’ve mentioned this product before. The coverage is excellent, lays out with basically zero orange peel, and seems durable. Matches the anodized black on the anniversary panels and the balance of parts I had powder coated reasonably well. It’s not cheap. About $30 a can on Amazon. But because of how well it covers, a can goes a long way. I did two coats on the back and three on the front of the firewall tunnel cover following their recoat instructions. They recommend multiple coats for the best durability. I let it cure for a couple days and managed to get it installed this morning without any damage. I used 3/16-inch rivets most of which I had to pull by hand because of the limited space. Yeah, my Milwaukee puller has completely spoiled me. With the panel installed, did the final mount of the Coyote PDB and megafuse. Happy with how this turned out. Having that cover in place really does clean up the engine compartment. The red cable peeking out at the bottom of the pictures is the alternator cable. It's attached at the master disconnect but not routed or wrapped yet.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225968&d=1771864381

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225969&d=1771864381

That’s it for the engine side of the Coyote control pack. Now to dive into the cockpit side along with the RF harness. I completely stripped the control pack harness and that’s really going to help get everything in its place. Not sure I’ll need to shorten anything. Maybe the ODB2 port but I think that might be it. Mainly just helps to put the breakouts in the right places for a neater installation. I'll re-wrap as needed.

[edwardb]

Today I completed plumbing the heater. With the space taken by the Aluminator in the engine compartment, determined probably the only location to bring the coolant hoses into the footbox. Similar to the location used by the Factory Five heat/A-C system I have in the Coupe. Because of the sharp corners to turn, I opted to use a Vintage Air 2-way inline bulkhead and 90-degree fittings. It’s all 5/8” heater hose. Relatively straightforward but took some trial and error on the hose lengths to get the heater valve inside the footbox where I wanted it. Speaking of that, the Coyote must have a full bypass heater control valve. Meaning when the valve is closed and not allowing heated coolant to the heater core, it’s still flowing coolant between the water pump connection on the LH side and the manifold connection on the RH side. That’s why even if you don’t install a heater, it’s necessary to plumb a hose between those two connections. Factory Five provides the hose and a restrictor (only needed without a heater) in the Coyote installation kit for this purpose. I looked for an electronic valve similar to the one FF provides but couldn’t find it. But did find the Old Air Products 50-1555 shown here which is similar. It’s powered and heat adjusted with a knob on the dash. No cable.

I used Gates PowerGrip clamps for all the connections. Love those things. Once in place and hit with the heat gun, I’ve never had one leak. Never need re-tightening and look clean. The downsides, of course, are they are one-time use and aren’t real cheap. But shop around. The prices are all over the place. These were from R**K A**o and half the price of anywhere else. Just saying. Final hint, a swipe with lacquer thinner removes the marking for a really clean look where they’re visible.

The Cobra Jet intake doesn’t leave any places to hide for the heater hoses going to the connections on the LH and RH side. I’ll try to route and clean things up later when I add the rest of the wiring. But no cover to hide under. For the connections at the engine, I opted to replace the kit provided connectors with genuine Gates branded 28504 Quick-Lok Heater Hose Connectors. I had issues with the kit supplied imported knock-offs back on my 20th anniversary build. One of them was leaking and coolant found its way to the back of the engine and to the ground. Bit of panic as my first thought was a head gasket. But fortunately, just the connector. Some other forum members found the connectors marginal as well. This kit came with Dorman connectors. Normally their stuff is decent. But still imported and not genuine Gates. Not suggesting it’s mandatory to swap these out. This was my choice. But I am suggesting it’s something to watch for.

Enough talk. Pictures. This is the Old Air Products heater valve in the top of the RH footbox.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226126&d=1772053320

Vintage Air connections through the footbox side.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226127&d=1772053320

Connections to the heater.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226128&d=1772053320

Engine RH side also showing where the connections come out of the footbox. I’m going to add a 2-way hose clamp where the hoses separate. In transit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226125&d=1772053320

Engine LH side.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226124&d=1772053320

I keep stalling... Next up I really am going work on the glovebox and dash. It's time.

[rhk118]

Masterful work Paul, as usual, I really enjoy following your builds and have learned so much. Love the dash layout, and how the steering column came together. 2 random questions:

1. When you shorten the branches of your harnesses (say rear harness to main for example) - are you soldering and shrink-wrapping individual wires at these points, or are you using weatherpack/deutch connectors…etc? I imagine your answer will be “it depends” but appreciate your thoughts how you approach this.

2. What are your thoughts on the standard FF supplied clutch safety switch and mounting location, vs the Coyote install pack where the switch is mounted up top with the metal plate that depresses the safety switch…it looks to me as if the top mount location might be the better of the 2 locations. I’m not using a Coyote but will be using the clutch switch and don’t love the engagement of the safety switch in the “stock” lower location. Maybe its the switch (and maybe its the location haha)

Finally I learned about the lower profile rivets…haven’t put in my floors or interior yet, as always a big thanks!

[edwardb]

Masterful work Paul, as usual, I really enjoy following your builds and have learned so much. Love the dash layout, and how the steering column came together. 2 random questions:

1. When you shorten the branches of your harnesses (say rear harness to main for example) - are you soldering and shrink-wrapping individual wires at these points, or are you using weatherpack/deutch connectors…etc? I imagine your answer will be “it depends” but appreciate your thoughts how you approach this.

2. What are your thoughts on the standard FF supplied clutch safety switch and mounting location, vs the Coyote install pack where the switch is mounted up top with the metal plate that depresses the safety switch…it looks to me as if the top mount location might be the better of the 2 locations. I’m not using a Coyote but will be using the clutch switch and don’t love the engagement of the safety switch in the “stock” lower location. Maybe its the switch (and maybe its the location haha)

Finally I learned about the lower profile rivets…haven’t put in my floors or interior yet, as always a big thanks!

Thanks! Glad you're following and picking up something you can use. For your questions.

1. My plan is to delete all the harness connectors, including the rear harness to main you asked about, with the exception of the dash harness. I'll splice the wires directly. First time I've gotten this aggressive. Only eliminated the front harness connectors on the Coupe. But they take up valuable space. In the past, I've done splices with solder and adhesive lined shrink sleeve. I'm confident with my soldering. Been doing it for years and have a Weller solder station. But it's generally recognized properly done crimps have advantages. (Not going to start the debate here.) My airplane avionics guy convinced me of this but only if using high quality butt connectors and the proper crimper. I purchased a supply of Molex shrink sleeve butt connectors and a new crimper. I've only done one so far but seems excellent. I expect to have a lot more experience soon.

2. The clutch safety switch at the bottom of the clutch travel (e.g. the "Coyote" version) is a technically better solution because it won't allow the car to start unless the clutch is fully released. It's what I prefer. On the other hand, it's a fair question to ask whether someone would only push the clutch pedal enough to close the switch on the FF top version without pushing the pedal all the way to the floor and fully releasing the clutch. Seems unlikely and it's certainly better than nothing IMO. This build, with the Coyote control pack, will have the bottom switch (already installed) plus for grins I'm paralleling the neutral safety switch from the TKX. So either would allow the car to start. I can see an occasional advantage of being able to start the car without climbing in and pushing the clutch down while still keeping the safety factor intact. Plus I like to try new things.

[rhk118]

Thanks as always Paul...looks like Del City has a number of types of heat shrink butt connectors, including some that have a crimp-able butt connector and some solder, but pricey...might be worthwhile for some fiddly areas where the wire wants to pull apart before getting solder on there and the butt connector will hold everything in place.

Just for clarification...My second question regarding the safety switch - do you think the coyote control pack location for the clutch safety switch on top of the pedal is any more reliable/safer than the FFR location that is lower and contacts the mid-pedal arm? Is that switch a better switch than the FFR-supplied one? Reason I ask is I'm considering moving my clutch safety switch to the top mount location rather than the FFR location on the Wildwood box...it looks like a better setup to me, might not be. I want to make sure my clutch is disengaged completely before the car will start, that upper location looks more adjustable for when the switch engages.

[PNWTim]

Thanks as always Paul...looks like Del City has a number of types of heat shrink butt connectors, including some that have a crimp-able butt connector and some solder, but pricey...might be worthwhile for some fiddly areas where the wire wants to pull apart before getting solder on there and the butt connector will hold everything in place.

Just for clarification...My second question regarding the safety switch - do you think the coyote control pack location for the clutch safety switch on top of the pedal is any more reliable/safer than the FFR location that is lower and contacts the mid-pedal arm? Is that switch a better switch than the FFR-supplied one? Reason I ask is I'm considering moving my clutch safety switch to the top mount location rather than the FFR location on the Wildwood box...it looks like a better setup to me, might not be. I want to make sure my clutch is disengaged completely before the car will start, that upper location looks more adjustable for when the switch engages.

I am pretty certain Paul was pointing out the Coyote switch (mounted on top of the pedal box) requires complete disengagement of the clutch in order to start. The lower or F5 switch could theoretically allow you to fudge the travel just until it completes the circuit to allow a start. The Coyote unit is a little more robust (still plastic though) and has a built in socket receptacle which receives the leads from the Coyote control pack harness. I personally think the mounting of the Coyote switch is a little more elegant but I am sure either will function as required if set up correctly.

[PMD24]

Hi Paul... a couple of questions.
1) I'm also planning to use crimp connections in several areas using good quality connectors and Klien ratcheting crimpers. Can you pass along what crimper you purchased?
2) I wired my rear harness to use the neutral safety switch and have been considering passing on the clutch switch for all the reasons discussed here and in other posts. But if I could use a different clutch switch in a different location so it was actually "safe", I'd do that and wire them in parallel. Can you share some additional details on that or point me to where I can find additional details?

Thanks,

Pat

[BUDFIVE]

Pat, Paul,
Are you using the Neutral safety switch (NSS) as an ECU input in the Coyote electronics which then triggers the solenoid? I ask because I wanted to use the NSS in parallel with the Clutch Safety Switch (CSS) in the RF Harness which places the CSS between the ignition and the solenoid. So the RF harness sends all the solenoid current through the CSS, or my NSS if I placed it in parallel. I had been told (confirmed by Tremec) the TKX NSS is designed to be an ECU high impedemce input (low current) and there is a high fail rate in the field when connecting direct to the solenoid. Even though the solenoid “acts like a big relay” connecting the starter high current post to power., the solenoid input takes significantly more current than a relay input. Anyway I decided the NSS feature wasnt worth adding a relay to prevent too much current passing through the TKX NSS. I only have the CSS.

[edwardb]

Thanks as always Paul...looks like Del City has a number of types of heat shrink butt connectors, including some that have a crimp-able butt connector and some solder, but pricey...might be worthwhile for some fiddly areas where the wire wants to pull apart before getting solder on there and the butt connector will hold everything in place.

Just for clarification...My second question regarding the safety switch - do you think the coyote control pack location for the clutch safety switch on top of the pedal is any more reliable/safer than the FFR location that is lower and contacts the mid-pedal arm? Is that switch a better switch than the FFR-supplied one? Reason I ask is I'm considering moving my clutch safety switch to the top mount location rather than the FFR location on the Wildwood box...it looks like a better setup to me, might not be. I want to make sure my clutch is disengaged completely before the car will start, that upper location looks more adjustable for when the switch engages.


I am pretty certain Paul was pointing out the Coyote switch (mounted on top of the pedal box) requires complete disengagement of the clutch in order to start. The lower or F5 switch could theoretically allow you to fudge the travel just until it completes the circuit to allow a start. The Coyote unit is a little more robust (still plastic though) and has a built in socket receptacle which receives the leads from the Coyote control pack harness. I personally think the mounting of the Coyote switch is a little more elegant but I am sure either will function as required if set up correctly.


Hi Paul... a couple of questions.
1) I'm also planning to use crimp connections in several areas using good quality connectors and Klien ratcheting crimpers. Can you pass along what crimper you purchased?
2) I wired my rear harness to use the neutral safety switch and have been considering passing on the clutch switch for all the reasons discussed here and in other posts. But if I could use a different clutch switch in a different location so it was actually "safe", I'd do that and wire them in parallel. Can you share some additional details on that or point me to where I can find additional details?

Thanks,

Pat


Pat, Paul,
Are you using the Neutral safety switch (NSS) as an ECU input in the Coyote electronics which then triggers the solenoid? I ask because I wanted to use the NSS in parallel with the Clutch Safety Switch (CSS) in the RF Harness which places the CSS between the ignition and the solenoid. So the RF harness sends all the solenoid current through the CSS, or my NSS if I placed it in parallel. I had been told (confirmed by Tremec) the TKX NSS is designed to be an ECU high impedemce input (low current) and there is a high fail rate in the field when connecting direct to the solenoid. Even though the solenoid “acts like a big relay” connecting the starter high current post to power., the solenoid input takes significantly more current than a relay input. Anyway I decided the NSS feature wasnt worth adding a relay to prevent too much current passing through the TKX NSS. I only have the CSS.

Thanks for your interest guys. Gone all day yesterday so just getting around to responding. I’ll do one post that hopefully addresses all.

I don’t know the current ratings for the clutch switch (6G9Z-11A152-A) that Ford Performance supplies with the Coyote control pack. But based on the appearance and the gauge of the wires in their harness that attaches to it, I’d guess it’s not a lot. Very important to understand that for a Coyote installation with their control pack, the current for the starter solenoid does not go through this switch. The switch translates the clutch pedal position to the PCM (Ford’s words) which I understand to be simple continuity. The actual electrical connection to the starter solenoid is a separate relatively large gauge wire N from the control pack harness. My plan is to parallel the Ford clutch switch to the TKX neutral safety switch so that when closed it accomplishes the same thing as the Ford clutch switch, e.g. signal the PCM that it’s OK to start the engine. As such, the TKX neutral safety switch shouldn’t require a relay and either closed switch would allow the car to start. I don’t think it will be the case, but if the paralleled TKX switch doesn’t work as planned, I’ll just leave that wiring out and be back to only the clutch switch which is what I’ve had on previous builds.

Note again the above is only for a Coyote installation. I don’t have experience with other installations other than the stock FF setup. The standard RF wiring (which I completely remove for a Coyote installation BTW) takes +12V off the start position of the ignition switch, routes it through the clutch safety switch, and then to the starter. I believe the switch that FF provides is up to the task but I don’t know details. I’ve only used it for the brake lights (same switch) where it has been fine. My understanding is that a starter solenoid requires 8 to 15 amps to operate during cranking with more briefly when first engaged. It’s clear from Tremec that the neutral safety switch inside the TKX cannot handle this current so that’s why a relay is required.

For the heat shrink butt connectors, I purchased a supply of Molex 19164-0056 (12-10 Ga), 19164-0044 (16-14 Ga), and 19164-0013 (22-18 Ga) from DelCity.net. I’ve only used one size so far and seem like excellent quality. As expected because there are cheaper alternatives. For a crimper, I’ve used a relatively cheap Baomain piece from Amazon for some years. It’s OK. But the provided jaws weren’t great for the Molex connectors. Based on a recommendation, I recently bought a Haisstronica 6 in 1 crimper (also Amazon...) and looks excellent. But I haven’t used it yet. The jaws for the heat shrink connectors look much better and they’re easier to change. You can sink a ton of money into professional name brand crimpers. Especially those dedicated to certain connectors, pins, etc. I’ve avoided those to date. I’ve had good experience with Klein products in the past, so I’m sure their crimper is OK. Assuming it’s the ratchet type. In the past, I would typically use uninsulated connectors and after crimping add a touch of solder and then my own shrink sleeve. I’m 100% confident in the quality and durability of those connections. Hoping to avoid soldering this time around though. But old habits die hard. We’ll see.

Side note, I’m very aware of the butt connectors that have a solder ring where the wires connect. The solder melts when heated along with the shrink sleeve. They’re popular and I know some guys on here successfully use them. Lots of discussion, reviews, testing videos, etc. which I really don’t want to continue here, other than I’m not planning on using them. Nothing overly negative. Just not my choice.

Hope that's everything. Quiet week on the home front this week so hope to get lots accomplished on the build.

[PMD24]

Thanks for the details Paul.

BUDFIVE, my application is a Blueprint 347. Pretty straightforward, using the neutral switch as the relay trigger to ground, with the relay fed from ignition start, and then to solenoid. For me personally, because of the mounting position of the FFR switch I don't view as a real safety, and therefore I'm headed in the direction of only the NSS. I also spoke directly with Tremec tech support and they confirmed that a relay is needed because the NSS is not designed for the solenoid load.

Pat

[edwardb]

I’ve been back and forth deciding how I’m going to do heat and sound insulation on this build. I already put Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro in the chassis outside the door sills that are near the side pipes. Shown in a previous post. Based on experience with the Coupe. My other builds to date have been completed inside the cockpit and trunk with LizardSkin 50100 ceramic and 50115 sound spray-on products. I’ve now decided I will do the same with this build except for the foot boxes. In the past, the timing worked so that I could complete the entire cockpit during warm weather. I only spray outside as mentioned previously. But that was before installing the pedal box, wiring, heat/A-C, etc. Not practical IMO to try to mask and spray around all that. For this build, I’ve spent the Michigan winter installing all those things. So I’ve completed installing stick-on products in the footboxes which can be completely masked off in the spring when I spray Lizard Skin on the balance.

I removed the Coyote DBW module (aka accelerator) and the heater. Then lined the inside sides and back of the footboxes with Second Skin Damplifier Pro Butyl Rubber Sound Deadener and covered the seams with Dynamat DynaTape. Then an additional layer of Dynamat 11101 Dynaliner on the inside fronts. These are the surfaces closest to the headers on the other side. Although mostly Lizard Skin, I used this combination of Damplifier Pro and Dynaliner on selected areas during the Coupe build. I’ve been very satisfied with the results. Not much else to say other than it’s a somewhat tedious process of making patterns from kraft paper, cutting the materials, then sticking into place. Needless to say, the adhesives are very aggressive. Probably the biggest challenge is getting them placed properly the first time. No second chances. What I planned to do is complete and the Coyote DBW and heater are back in place. Not pictured, but I also put a layer of Damplfier Pro on the inside of the firewall and permanently riveted it in place. The footbox tops and outside panels I'll spray with Lizard Skin while loose and before installing.

Side note: Lizard Skin sometimes doesn’t get a lot of love because of the time and effort required to adequately mask everything. I’ve spent a day or two in the past completing. The actual spray portion is quick. This is the most amount of stick-on insulation I’ve installed on any build. I’m convinced it’s not any quicker. Every product has pluses and minuses. But I’m calling time to install about even.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226377&d=1772639236


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226378&d=1772639236

[Ejzajac]

Paul,
There are obviously a large number of sound and heat reduction products available including both spray-on and stick! You appear to have significant experience with most of them. Lizard Skin is a favorite, but I consider it an "outdoor spray" product only and requires meticulous tape and protection. Interested in opinions on Damplifier Pro, using it conjunction with layered Dynamat Dynaliner on crucial heat zones and Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro vs. Damplifier Pro. I see you used Luxury Liner Pro on the chassis outside the door sills. What did you fill the voids within the chassis openings outside of the aluminum panels? Thanks.

Ed Z

[edwardb]

Paul,
There are obviously a large number of sound and heat reduction products available including both spray-on and stick! You appear to have significant experience with most of them. Lizard Skin is a favorite, but I consider it an "outdoor spray" product only and requires meticulous tape and protection. Interested in opinions on Damplifier Pro, using it conjunction with layered Dynamat Dynaliner on crucial heat zones and Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro vs. Damplifier Pro. I see you used Luxury Liner Pro on the chassis outside the door sills. What did you fill the voids within the chassis openings outside of the aluminum panels? Thanks.

Ed Z

I'm not the best person to ask about specific brands outside of what I listed here. Very little other experience. Multiple brands are described here on the forum. I'd suggest reviewing those. Many will say theirs is the best (isn't that what we all do?). There are also a ton of reviews and videos for other brands on the web. Fair warning. I've found numerous reviews are by the brand that happened to come out on top. Just saying. Costs vary widely. Dynamat is at the high end. Second Skin products aren't quite as expensive but still not cheap. Although for me the quality and value are there that's why I've used them. One thing to watch for though. Some of the cheaper brands are asphalt based. They're not as effective, don't last as long, and can emit a not-so-nice smell. Stick with butyl rubber based which most of the better products are. Lizard Skin is neither. It's latex based.

I agree the prep time for Lizard Skin is a factor. But as I stated -- and found out with experience -- if you take the time to make patterns and fit the stick-on products with some level of accuracy, I'm not sure the Lizard Skin effort is any less. Just different. I personally like how Lizard Skin seals everything up and the heat and sound barrier it provides I've found to be excellent. The price is comparable to the middle priced products. But everyone is different and needs to decide what is best for them.

Luxury Liner Pro is 3/8-inches thick. No issue when installed on the outside between frame rails as I did here and on my Coupe. But IMO would take up way too much space on the inside of the cockpit, your carpet would no longer fit, and I question whether it would really make that much of a difference. Plus it's more rigid so doesn't confirm to the surface like other products. Also isn't self-adhesive. You have to glue it down with contact cement or whatever. Apparently an excellent product and has its place. But I don't see it as an alternative to Damplifier Pro if that's what you're asking.

"What did you fill the voids within the chassis openings outside of the aluminum panels?" Are you referring to small gaps and openings sometimes in corners of panels? If so, depends on the size. If not too big, a bead of silicone or some type of body seam sealer does the job. For larger gaps, my usual go-to is a piece of self-adhesive aluminum tape on the top and then fill the backside with seam sealer. Once again, Lizard Skin is nice for this because it overlays whatever you're using to seal up the openings. Well fitting self-adhesive products would do the same thing.

Final overall comments. I think it's possible to overthink this entire subject. Use a decent product that fits your budget and selection criteria and do a quality installation. I don't have data, but with carpet on top I'm betting there isn't a big difference in final noise and temperature results. These cars are noisy no matter what. Also make sure to seal up every possible opening from the engine compartment. Hot air will make it through the smallest openings and negate a lot of your hard work. Trust me you will feel it.

[Ejzajac]

Than you again. My specific question was on the placement/position of the Luxury Liner Pro "outside" the door sills? Did you cut triangular pieces and and affix to the outside surface of the aluminum sill panel or fix to the outside tubes of the chassis. Some builders have added additional closed cell insulation into these triangular spaces of the chassis. I'm fearful my original question was not as specific as needed. Sorry.

[edwardb]

Than you again. My specific question was on the placement/position of the Luxury Liner Pro "outside" the door sills? Did you cut triangular pieces and and affix to the outside surface of the aluminum sill panel or fix to the outside tubes of the chassis. Some builders have added additional closed cell insulation into these triangular spaces of the chassis. I'm fearful my original question was not as specific as needed. Sorry.

I put the Luxury Liner Pro inside the frame rails against the aluminum panels. Discussed and shown in this earlier post: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51545-EdwardB%92s-Mk5-30th-Anniversary-Build-Footbox-and-Firewall-Insulation&p=595950&viewfull=1#post595950. There's room for additional layers if you wanted. Might be room on the outside of the tubes, but I recall the body gets pretty close to the tubes at the bottom. I'm not sure how much added difference either of these would make.

[edwardb]

Getting into the weeds here. But thought I would show the final wiring under the upper transmission panel before it’s covered up. Looks simple enough now but quite a bit of work to get it that way. As previously described, the kit provided master disconnect is the gathering point for power from the battery. From there, branches go to the starter, Coyote PDB, alternator, and a bus bar behind the firewall to power the RF harness plus others. Each of these are visible in this picture. Through the center from left to right is the Coyote control pack harness leg from the PCM and PDB. There were several grounds in that cable that I combined into one lug and bolted to the frame as shown. With the powder coat removed and solidly on bare metal of course. Measures zero ohms from this lug to the battery negative post so I have a solid ground. Important for everything but especially the Coyote control pack. The RH bus bar in the picture is the main battery feed. The LH bus bar will be ignition switched. Along the LH edge is the rear brake line, the fuel line, and the rear harness. The master disconnect came with a large blue plastic cover. I cut some slots in it and a large tie wrap holds it in place over the connections on the back of the switch. The switch is already somewhat protected where it’s located. But doesn’t hurt.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226454&d=1772856065.

I mounted a mega fuse on the engine side of the firewall for the cable to the alternator. More work remaining to route and dress the wires around the engine. But everything is there now. Next up to the basement shop to wrap and final wire the dash. With that in place, can final wire the rest on the chassis. For me, wiring is always a struggle between trying to make it neat and organized but accepting it's not going to be pretty.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226455&d=1772856065

[Ramjet]

Paul,

Fantastic work! I continue to really appreciate your build details. With your alternator connection to the master cutoff switch, did you just do a jumper from the A to B terminal to power the alternator side?

Thanks as always,
Eric

[edwardb]

Paul,

Fantastic work! I continue to really appreciate your build details. With your alternator connection to the master cutoff switch, did you just do a jumper from the A to B terminal to power the alternator side?

Thanks as always,
Eric

Thanks. At least one person following my build that isn't bored with the detail. :p FF did provide a jumper for the switch but I didn't use it. I mentioned how I wired the master disconnect previously. Buried in a thread with a bunch of other topics. Bottom line the computer controlled Coyote simply won't run unless there is +12V on the control pack Ignition Relay Trigger wire. This is one of the interface points to the RF harness. Typically the RF ignition switch controlled EFI wire is attached to it. Key off, no voltage on the EFI wire, the Coyote PCM shuts things down. No chance for the alternator to keep things running. So I'm not messing with separately switching the alternator. I suspect not everyone will agree with my decision but that's what I did. In hindsight, it would have been easy enough to add the jumper and put the alternator on the other side of the switch. But I had made my decision and all the cables custom lengths completed and wrapped. My other Coyote builds only had the 2-post master disconnects. Never has been a problem.

[edwardb]

In preparation for covering the dash with leather, I decided to start with some other pieces first. This is a strategy I often use when trying something new. Start small, learn from it, then go to the big stuff. I covered the inside back of the glovebox first. Then to the upper and lower transmission covers shown here. All good so far. I’m ready to do the dash after I finish the glovebox.

As mentioned previously, I’m using ES#3-a BLACK MAGIC (Half Hide) leather from the Leather Hide Store in NC. It reasonably matches the leather of the anniversary seats and door cards. The only other time I used leather was on the 20th anniversary roadster interior. I bought that from a place on eBay that had good reviews. It was OK. But this leather is better quality I think.

For adhesive I’m mainly using 3M Hi-Strength Spray Adhesive 90. I’ve not been a fan of these spray-on adhesives in the past. I didn’t like how overspray goes everywhere and didn’t find they stuck as well as my usual go-to brush-on DAP Weldwood Gel contact cement. But for my airplane build (there’s that subject and learning experience again…) the manufacturer and other builders recommended the 3M 90 specifically and I hadn’t tried that one before. Turns out I like it a lot. The spray pattern is relatively controllable without a lot of overspray. It goes down kind of in a laced pattern. One minute wait time on both surfaces and it’s ready. Grabs just like contact cement so the positioning needs to be very accurate. From what testing I’ve done the bond is excellent. For the transmission tunnel pieces, I still used the DAP gel contact cement to wrap the edges. Brushing it on is much more controllable and I trust it. I’m ready to do the dash using the same process.

Like many, I’m not a big fan of the heavy padded look. For the tops of the two transmission tunnel pieces, I used 1/8-inch closed cell sculpting foam which has just enough give IMO. For the dash, I’m going to use two layers of leather. I’ve got plenty. I’ve done this before with vinyl and liked how it turned out. I’ll do a small test panel just to be sure.

On my Coupe, I have French seams with contrasting stitching on the edges of the tunnel covers and dash. Sewn by a local auto interior shop. It’s a nice look and matches the similarly detailed Corbeau seats. For this build, neither the seats or door cards have French seams so decided against that. The kit provided seats have piping around the edges. That could be an option, but not a DIY process and I really rather prefer not to go to the time and expense of an outside shop. I’ve seen a few builds that duplicated the stitched diamond pattern on the center covers. Like the anniversary seats and door cards. Not a DIY process and while I like the look in moderation a little goes a long way IMO. Bottom line I kept things simple and just wrapped the edges. Looks a little plain right now, but I think once everything is done it will be fine. Side note, that raised joint between the upper and lower covers is a perfect place to rest a phone or pad while driving. The Coupe is the same way.

With that, here are pictures of the two transmission tunnel pieces covered and set in place on the chassis. The sun was shining brightly through the window on that side of the shop, so the color is somewhat wiped out. The color really is black. The last picture shows the now painted electric component tray I’ve shown previously sitting in place on the upper cover. I didn’t put the 1/8-inch foam under this area.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226766&d=1773513682

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226767&d=1773513682

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226765&d=1773513682

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226768&d=1773513682

My glovebox fabrication is making good progress. I’ll post more details and pictures when it’s further along. Meanwhile, a teaser (like it’s a big deal :rolleyes:).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226764&d=1773513682

[PNWTim]

Your wrap looks good. Is there 1 or 2mm of landau foam under it or straight to the aluminum (I can't tell from the pictures). I am curious if you opted for velcro to hold these two covers on or are you going a different direction>

[edwardb]

Your wrap looks good. Is there 1 or 2mm of landau foam under it or straight to the aluminum (I can't tell from the pictures). I am curious if you opted for velcro to hold these two covers on or are you going a different direction>

Thanks. I mentioned in my write-up that I used 1/8-inch closed cell sculpting foam on the top of the lower cover and partially on the upper cover. Just didn't give the brand name. This was from a piece I had left over from a previous build. Was just enough. The foam is to the aluminum and and the leather to the foam where it's applied. The balance of the leather is directly to the aluminum.

The upper cover will be riveted. i won't use any silicone so it could be removed a bit easier. But that wouldn't be a small job since it's up under the dash with a lot going on in there. The lower cover with the shifter and e-brake I was originally going to use screws though the sides like on my Coupe. It's low tech, works, and barely noticeable. But I may try 3m Dual Lock. I have some left over from another build. Notice a pattern here? I used it for door cards. It's almost too difficult to get it to separate. But still better than riveting and would eliminate the visible screws. I'll save the decision until the very end of the build. The cover is a tight fit now so no hurry.

[PNWTim]

Thanks. I mentioned in my write-up that I used 1/8-inch closed cell sculpting foam on the top of the lower cover and partially on the upper cover. Just didn't give the brand name. This was from a piece I had left over from a previous build. Was just enough. The foam is to the aluminum and and the leather to the foam where it's applied. The balance of the leather is directly to the aluminum.

The upper cover will be riveted. i won't use any silicone so it could be removed a bit easier. But that wouldn't be a small job since it's up under the dash with a lot going on in there. The lower cover with the shifter and e-brake I was originally going to use screws though the sides like on my Coupe. It's low tech, works, and barely noticeable. But I may try 3m Dual Lock. I have some left over from another build. Notice a pattern here? I used it for door cards. It's almost too difficult to get it to separate. But still better than riveting and would eliminate the visible screws. I'll save the decision until the very end of the build. The cover is a tight fit now so no hurry.

Thanks Paul. I normally read your posts fairly closely but missed the foam portion. I am covering my dash this weekend and had on option to order the alcantara with a 2mm foam backing applied, which I opted for. I am thinking there is good and bad to this. It's nice not to have to do a two stage process but wrapping is a bit of a problem with foam in the way so I may rethink my approach.

Like you, I am a bit on the fence about attaching my center console pieces. I also have some 3M velcro that is almost too strong but then I wonder how often, if ever, I would want to remove those center sections? Definitely a "down the road problem".

[Railroad]

It is all the builders choice and I find your builds very well planned.
I sorta question, whether you would want to be able to reach the disconnect switch, while you are buckled up in the drivers seat.
Probably more important if you drive your car competitively.
Nice work, as usual.

[CW_MI]

Just a quick question on the leather hide. When you ordered it, did you have it "skived", or is it full thickness ? I was looking at hides for my seats and some other things, and saw that option, and didn't know if the leather should be thinner for things like shift, E brake boots and door pockets.

[edwardb]

It is all the builders choice and I find your builds very well planned.
I sorta question, whether you would want to be able to reach the disconnect switch, while you are buckled up in the drivers seat.
Probably more important if you drive your car competitively.
Nice work, as usual.

Thanks for your post. I don't track my cars and not a concern whether I can reach the master disconnect while buckled in. I install the master disconnect primarily as a shut-off while doing maintenance, power down during winter storage times, and also an organized method for power hookup that I've used on multiple builds. I purposely have it under the dash in the passenger footbox because it's mostly out of the way and suits how I lay out the wiring. My Coupe is the same way. One could argue I could accomplish the same thing with a binding post and forgo the master disconnect, and in fact that's what some do. As you said, builder's choice.

[edwardb]

Just a quick question on the leather hide. When you ordered it, did you have it "skived", or is it full thickness ? I was looking at hides for my seats and some other things, and saw that option, and didn't know if the leather should be thinner for things like shift, E brake boots and door pockets.

I'm far from a leather expert. I've only used it twice for two car builds. (Well, that's doesn't include summer camp craft products way back in the day where we tooled various patterns and pictures onto thick leather pieces for wallets, belts, whatever. But talk about off topic...) There was no mention of "skived" either time I've purchased for my builds. I know what the term means but both times the material I received was ready to use and just as flexible as vinyl or whatever. It could easily be used for all the purposed you mentioned. This most recent material from https://leatherhidestore.com/ measures about .05-inches thick. The eBay material I bough previously was slightly thicker but mainly I think because the back side wasn't quite as smooth.

[PNWTim]

Skiving is done a lot for dash and console leathers where the thickness of the hide is reduced significantly to allow it to take up compound shapes, curves, etc.

[edwardb]

I like a glovebox on these builds because it’s useful. But also because I think the dash looks better with one installed. My first Mk3 build had one from the company that shall not be named. My second had one from Alex's Custom Roadster Interiors. A nice piece but no longer available. For the 20th Anniversary Roadster and my Coupe, I fabricated my own using a similar process. For this build, I had visions of using my Bambu 3D printer to make the interior. I’m a beginner at this. OK at printing so far but basically zero design skills. There are several tool options including perhaps scanning. But I haven’t taken the time to learn. There are a bunch of print design files on the web but nothing close for the glovebox. So I've reverted to my metal fabricated pieces.

Bottom line, not a lot new to see here. Finalized the shape and determined a 3-inch depth. Resulted in a decent size glove box and fit in the dash with everything else. Made wood forms. Cut and bent the 28-gauge galvanized steel for the wraparound sides from HVAC duct material from my local HD. This stuff bends without breaking and easily forms the tabs for the front and back. The front ring is 1/8-inch thick aluminum. The back is 1/16-inch aluminum. The door will be two layers of aluminum. A liberal amount of JB Weld used for the front and back to hold against the tabs. Although the front ones are captured against the dash. I like to leather line the interior. I applied the leather piece on the back before assembly. Much easier than trying to fit and apply into a finished box. I’ll wrap the sides later. I wanted to use the same 173167 Richelieu hinges I’ve used before. But none at Lowes where I’ve obtained them before and no one else had any either. Leave it to Amazon to have a knock-off version available. Received them yesterday and they look fine. For this build, I’m planning to put the door on the outside slightly overlapping the opening. I’ve seen this in multiple pictures on other brands. It’s a different look and slightly less critical than fitting a door flush into the opening.

There are more details and examples in my other build threads:

20th Anniversary Roadster: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=219268&viewfull=1#post219268

Gen 3 Coupe: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=323319&viewfull=1#post323319

Here’s where I’m at now. The notches fit around the dash hangers on the dash hoop. The perimeter mounting screws will be buried in the dash and filled dead flat before the leather covering is applied.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226849&d=1773620763

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226848&d=1773620763

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226847&d=1773620742

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226846&d=1773620742

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226845&d=1773620742

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226844&d=1773620742

I’ll post an update when further along which will likely be after the dash is complete and leather wrapped including the glove box doors. But I’m going to be away from the build for a little while. My wife had knee replacement surgery last August. It has not gone well. I’ll spare the details. After multiple opinions, the conclusion is a do-over. Different surgeon and a different hospital. The surgery is tomorrow morning. Needless to say this will take my full attention and priority.

[Railroad]

Praying and wishing the best for both of you.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Sorry to learn that Sharon has had difficulties with the knee Paul. All my best wishes for a good outcome this go around.

Jeff

PS; I'm looking at 2 replacements this year---first one is scheduled for May 20th

[Sharris2]

Jeff, look into the oxford knee (partial replacement) if you don't need a full replacement. I had both done in 2022 sill able to play hockey and downhill ski.
Paul, hope all goes well.

Scott

[Blitzboy54]

Good luck to you and your wife. Wishing you guys all the best.

[edwardb]

Thanks for the comments, well wishes, and prayers. Surgery is over. Surgeon said it went very well. Sharon is in a regular room for at least one night and while a little sleepy doing great. Already an improvement over last time.

[TrackDay17]

That's good news, prayers that she recovers quickly with no complications this time around.

[RobHartley]

Glad to hear the surgery went well, and hope for a speedy recovery with no complications. Its always stressful when the love of your life is in pain. My thoughts are with you and your wife.

[edwardb]

We’re on day 6 of my wife’s knee replacement revision (aka do-over from six months ago) and day 4 at home. She’s going OK but clearly it's going to take some time. But we're convinced the hospital and surgeon we chose have made good decisions and given her the best possible care so far. Thanks for the posts and messages wishing her the best. We’ll get through this! Turns out she needs a lot of rest so I’ve had time to sneak down to the basement shop for some build progress. Just got the laundry and dinner done so a little free time to post an update. (I'd post a roll-eyes emoji but I'm out of images for this post...)

For part 2 of the glovebox, with the box built the next step was attachment to the dash. The idea is to bury 6-32 undercut flat head mounting screws in the dash, held in place with JB Weld, complete the leather wrap, and then bolt the glovebox in place hoping the screws stay in place long enough to tighten the nuts on the back side. I’ve done this a couple times before but with thicker material than this .040-inch dash piece. With countersinks in the face of the dash enough to bury the bolt heads, there wasn’t much material left to support the screws let alone expect the JB Weld to hold while tightening. So, I fabricated 15 small squares, also of .040-inch thick aluminum, with slight countersinks to clear the bevel of the screws that came through the dash and JB Welded those in place along with the screws. Then filled and sanded the front of the dash so that it was dead smooth and the screw heads completely buried. The nuts are used while bonding and left in place until removed and replaced one time when the glovebox is installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227099&d=1774217052

Jumping ahead to later in this update where I’ll show the completed dash, after the leather was installed on the face of the dash and wrapped around the glovebox opening (cutting around the 15 squares) carefully installed the glovebox and tightened the nuts. Everything held, no bolts spun, and I’m happy with how it turned out. Wondering why I used 15 bolts? Kind of overkill I guess. But I was concerned about how flexible the dash was especially with that large glovebox hole. I wanted the front of the dash to be straight for appearance along with the proper fit of the door. Speaking of the door, that will be part 3. The door, hinges, and latch will be fabricated based on the now finished dash opening. Also, will finish leather lining the interior.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227101&d=1774217052

With the glovebox ready to mount, decided to use what available time I had to wrap the leather on the dash. It went pretty quickly. As already mentioned, I put two layers of leather on the dash. First layer on the face and lower edge and trimmed flush all around. Second layer was wrapped around the perimeter, through the dash holes, etc. As already mentioned, I used 3M Hi-Strength Spray Adhesive 90 on the large flat surfaces and DAP gel contact cement to wrap the edges. Everything went pretty smoothly. The leather is easy enough to work with but one hint. It eats blades used for trimming. When the blade starts dragging even a little, stop and change it. I went through a bunch of single edge razer blades and quite a few #11 X-Acto blades. With the leather wrap complete, what else to do but fill the dash with the various gauges, switches, etc.? I’ve already shared the layout I’m using. Now it starts to get real.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227102&d=1774217052

The back side doesn’t look quite as nice. Plenty of work here to get things sorted out and wired. Most will be connected to the RF dash harness. I shot LizardSkin TopCoat on the glovebox, visible in these pics. Partly because I had some on hand. Also because it looks better. Even though not visible when the build is finished. When you’re overly nitpicky, that’s what you do…

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227104&d=1774217088

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227103&d=1774217088

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227105&d=1774217088

Finally, for grins loosely hung the nearly completed dash in the chassis. Inspiration to keep moving forward.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227100&d=1774217052

For those who are interested: Contents of the dash, left to right. Obviously missing is the turn signal stalk and cruise control switches installed along with the steering wheel.


Momentary pushbuttom for low and high beam and flash to pass (via the ididit headlight module)
Oil pressure gauge
Water temp gauge
Amber LED indicator for cooling fan running
Tach
Light switch. Left twist for footwell courtesy lights. Note the gauge dimmer is elsewhere.
Horn button
Ignition switch
Volt gauge
Green LED indicator for “cruise control active”
GPS speedometer. Turn signal and high beam LED indicators inside gauge.
Fuel gauge
Clock. Powered by the Coyote control pack HAAT B circuit. Not affected by the master disconnect. Clock set button inside glovebox.
Rotary switch for wipers. Push for washers.
Rotary heater temp control
Rotary heater fan control
Seat heater switches. Some mount them elsewhere. I like them on the dash. I'll run the wires from the seats along the inside lower corners of the cockpit under the insulation and carpet. Same as I've done before.
Along the bottom of the dash: Hazard pushbutton, pushbutton for gauge dimming, Watson’s Streetworks headlights on chime, USB port, pushbutton for speedo, aux port.

Shout out to my Mom. Today is her 93rd birthday. Still lives in her home in Oregon and doing fine. Finally sold her car and stopped driving. But otherwise fully functional. Lots of family close to help take care of her. We spoke to her last night. Today there was a nice gathering to help celebrate another year. Happy Birthday Mom!

[PNWTim]

As always, very meticulous work. I think you were wise to spread the load with the 15 fasteners. You would see even a little "waviness" in that .040 if they were too far apart. I really like the clean layout of the gauges and switches as well.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Beautiful dash Paul!

Jeff

[cv2065]

Love the dash layout Paul. Gauges are visually very balanced with the glove box.

[Papa]

Beautiful work as always, Paul.

[Ramjet]

Fantastic work on your dash Paul!!

I've been searching the websites for matching knobs for the heater and temp control. Where did you find yours?

Eric

[edwardb]

Fantastic work on your dash Paul!!

I've been searching the websites for matching knobs for the heater and temp control. Where did you find yours?

Eric

Thanks. Too funny. I was going to say something about those knobs but didn't. Those are the third set I've tried and I think I like them but the jury is still out. Those are actually volume/tone control knobs for guitars or whatever. From Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B36ZRWL3?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1. There are actually a whole bunch of different styles and sizes. Just make sure they are the 1/4-inch shaft size that fits our controls. These are unmarked for now and may leave them that way, but again haven't decided for sure. I have somewhat similar knobs in my Coupe and had the automotive icon images laser etched onto them. Figure I have time to decide.

[PNWTim]

Thanks. Too funny. I was going to say something about those knobs but didn't. Those are the third set I've tried and I think I like them but the jury is still out. Those are actually volume/tone control knobs for guitars or whatever. From Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B36ZRWL3?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1. There are actually a whole bunch of different styles and sizes. Just make sure they are the 1/4-inch shaft size that fits our controls. These are unmarked for now and may leave them that way, but again haven't decided for sure. I have somewhat similar knobs in my Coupe and had the automotive icon images laser etched onto them. Figure I have time to decide.

So, coincidentally, I recently replaced a couple of fan and light knobs on the barbecue hood we have outside. I wanted metal ones instead of the plastic it came with. After poking around a bit, I found a guy on ebay that sells a wide variety of knobs for classic audio gear - amps, receivers, etc. They are really nicely made and milled out of aluminum. Also come in multiple colors. Go figure.

[Blitzboy54]

Thanks. Too funny. I was going to say something about those knobs but didn't. Those are the third set I've tried and I think I like them but the jury is still out. Those are actually volume/tone control knobs for guitars or whatever. From Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B36ZRWL3?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1. There are actually a whole bunch of different styles and sizes. Just make sure they are the 1/4-inch shaft size that fits our controls. These are unmarked for now and may leave them that way, but again haven't decided for sure. I have somewhat similar knobs in my Coupe and had the automotive icon images laser etched onto them. Figure I have time to decide.

I did the exact same thing on my dash. I just bought 2 more for the truck. Inexpensive and lots of variety.

[wheelindex]

HI, On your upper and lower trans tunnel, how did you attach them. Did you rivnut them somewhere? I see you did a custom lower but did not see any attachment points.
thanks!

[edwardb]

HI, On your upper and lower trans tunnel, how did you attach them. Did you rivnut them somewhere? I see you did a custom lower but did not see any attachment points.
thanks!

They're not attached yet. Finalizing a few things first. But when I do: Upper tunnel cover will be riveted along the top edge into the frame piece it rests on. Standard kit setup. The bottom edge will also be riveted. Earlier in the build thread I mentioned I had reversed the overlap between the upper and lower covers. This so the lower cover could be removed without removing the upper one. (Something I recommend Factory Five should consider...) I added a piece along the edge of the upper cover to allow it to be riveted. Rivets aren't practical along the sides due to the angle of the underlying frame pieces. The new lower cover I made doesn't have the original overlap. Confusing? Probably. I'm planning to try 3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener strips for the lower cover. If that isn't acceptable, I'll just put screws through the side. I want it to be removeable. Have done that on all my builds even though to date haven't had to remove one. Probably shouldn't say that out loud...

[edwardb]

The Michigan assembled vehicle safety inspection lists windshield washers as required. I didn’t install them on my first couple builds and managed to talk my way out of them. But I’ve installed them on every build since. Naturally, the LEO doing the most recent inspections never checked for them. Just checked the box. Go figure. But in addition to being legally required, they have a purpose although minimal especially in a Roadster. For this build, I don’t have a lot of space so considered the Chase Bays reservoir and pump I used on the truck build. It’s a nice piece, but at $150 and still not sure if it would fit, didn’t go there. A few weeks ago, it dawned on me I had a perfectly good reservoir already on hand with the unused FF brake fluid reservoir. Just needed to add a pump. Coincidentally, later the same day I saw another build thread with the same idea. Maybe there are others doing the same thing. Not a lot of capacity in that reservoir, but plenty to pass the inspection and do the job if ever needed. I think I’ve exercised the washers three times in five seasons in the Coupe.

I looked for a pump on Amazon (where else?) and multiple sellers had the same small universal washer pump for under $10. Had decent reviews so picked one up. Found it to be cheap (no surprise), noisy, and even though it probably would have done the job, just didn’t want it to be part of the build. I ended up with a Trico 11-100 universal pump. Still not expensive and seems decent. Note Amazon also shows an ACDelco pump that appears to be exactly the same thing for about $10 more.

With the pump and reservoir on hand, next up was how to mount the pump. Toyed with some metal fabrication but nothing I liked. Then realized this would be a perfect place to use a 3D printed part. I have basically no design skills. Just haven’t taken the time to learn and not sure I will. But how hard could this be? A ring with a rectangle on one side to mount the pump. So played around with TinkerCAD and it wasn’t hard. An almost child-like design tool but even I could do this one. Printed the part in ABS with extra walls and fill for strength. Works perfectly. It's a very tight fit over the reservoir so doesn't require anything to keep it in place. Full disclosure, I tapped the 8-32 mounting holes after the print. Beyond my pay grade to design those into the print.

Here are the pieces ready for assembly:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227457&d=1774723482

Together. I tested into a bucket with the reservoir full and 12V from my Power Probe. Emptied the reservoir in just a few seconds. No surprise without the small orifice squirters. But it works. Note it was necessary to cut a hole in the rubber diaphragm in the cap of the reservoir for the fluid to flow freely.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227459&d=1774723482

Installed on the firewall. I tapped 1/4-20 holes for mounting.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227458&d=1774723482

I have a Dorman 47137 universal windshield washer nozzle kit that I’ll mount on the body when the time comes. The pump will be wired into the windshield wiper switch. The 2-speed wiper switch provided by Specialty Power Windows includes a push function for washers.

Time for the build is still pretty limited but Sharon is making great progress.

[PNWTim]

You snuck that right in there. So now we're 3D printing? I'm impressed!

[CW_MI]

I’ve been jumping around a lot working on a number of details but mostly without enough progress to report. Two things made the cut for this update.

I mounted the Specialty Power Windows WWK2 wiper mechanism on the firewall. This is the third build where I’ve used this system. Fits easily in the Coupe. A little more work on the truck build going around the corner and mounting in the footwell. For this build, back on the firewall but it’s a tight fit. They provide a universal mounting bracket which in each case I've cut up for mounting brackets on each end. I use vibration damping mounts from McMaster (where else?). They’re pretty stiff but can’t hurt and make mounting relatively simple. I located the mechanism as far as I could to the right to fit between the footbox top cover and the bulb seal on the top of the firewall. The instructions say ideally there’s 4-inches of straight tube before bending to engage the wiper arm wheel boxes. This location provides just over 6-inches and based on estimated locations, should be a pretty straight shot.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225966&d=1771864301

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225967&d=1771864301

.

I'm getting to this stage of my build. I to am finding it to be a very tight fit. This is my first build, and first installing a wiper system, so not sure what can an cannot be done. I see everyone mounting the wiper motor on the firewall, is there any reason that it can't be mounted on the top of the foot box ?

[edwardb]

I'm getting to this stage of my build. I to am finding it to be a very tight fit. This is my first build, and first installing a wiper system, so not sure what can an cannot be done. I see everyone mounting the wiper motor on the firewall, is there any reason that it can't be mounted on the top of the foot box ?

Yes, it's tight there. But it fits. Sure, you could mount it on the footbox. The drive cable is long and flexible enough that location isn't critical. In my truck build, I had it inside the cab almost to the floor by the RH door. Downside though is if you want the footbox top to be removeable, then the wiper motor assembly would need to be moved or at least unbolted. If you're installing heat or heat/A-C with the unit inside the footbox, then having the footbox top removeable is a must IMO.

[rickster991]

I mounted on the foot box and the issue I ran into was getting to the windshield bolts. So I took it off prior to body install, and then with the body on I could not get it back in. So I would say temporarily mount it and make sure you can get to the bolts. My $.02…

[CW_MI]

Yes, it's tight there. But it fits. Sure, you could mount it on the footbox. The drive cable is long and flexible enough that location isn't critical. In my truck build, I had it inside the cab almost to the floor by the RH door. Downside though is if you want the footbox top to be removeable, then the wiper motor assembly would need to be moved or at least unbolted. If you're installing heat or heat/A-C with the unit inside the footbox, then having the footbox top removeable is a must IMO.

Great, thanks for the reply. My build will not have heat or A/C. The only things going into the footbox is the Holley Terminator ECU and mini MSD, which will be fastened to brackets from the inside. So, no need to remove the top.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Interesting about the windshield washer requirement in Michigan. I've done 3 cars for Michigan owners which were already licensed when they came to me and none had them. I suspect that it depends on the inspector and how thorough/picky they are. Similarly, I've done some New York cars and only one had a reverse light which is required in the vehicle code. One of those owners said it was well known in the builder community where to go for inspection...as well as where not to go!

Jeff

[Mike.Bray]

Interesting about the windshield washer requirement in Michigan. I've done 3 cars for Michigan owners which were already licensed when they came to me and none had them. I suspect that it depends on the inspector and how thorough/picky they are. Similarly, I've done some New York cars and only one had a reverse light which is required in the vehicle code. One of those owners said it was well known in the builder community where to go for inspection...as well as where not to go!

Jeff

227534

[CW_MI]

Interesting about the windshield washer requirement in Michigan. I've done 3 cars for Michigan owners which were already licensed when they came to me and none had them. I suspect that it depends on the inspector and how thorough/picky they are. Similarly, I've done some New York cars and only one had a reverse light which is required in the vehicle code. One of those owners said it was well known in the builder community where to go for inspection...as well as where not to go!

Jeff

I know with SxS's here in MI, one could pass with having a squirt bottle full of water. Now that was with SxS's and some years ago. I don't know if they've gotten much more strict now. At this time, I'm not planning on installing a washer and reservoir.

[CW_MI]

227534

Yep...something like that. Lol

[Jeff Kleiner]

227534

Yep. Kinda' like when I was building apartments and condos...you could generate a lot of goodwill for the upcoming year by leaving a bottle high quality adult beverage (or bag of weed in the case of one guy) along with a Christmas card on the seat of the County Building Inspectors pickup trucks every December ;)

Jeff

[edwardb]

I know with SxS's here in MI, one could pass with having a squirt bottle full of water. Now that was with SxS's and some years ago. I don't know if they've gotten much more strict now. At this time, I'm not planning on installing a washer and reservoir.

In my county (Oakland) the inspections are done by the sheriff department. You call the county dispatcher, tell them what you want, and they dispatch an officer to your home. There's no opportunity to choose who it might be. Friendly to the process and build or not. I did the squirt bottle thing on my first build. The LEO gave me the side eye but still checked it off. On my second build, the LEO filled out the form, signed it, but left the washer box blank because (as he correctly pointed out) it didn't have them. We had a brief but friendly conversation that the SOS office wouldn't process my title request with the box blank. After a couple minutes, he took out his pen and checked the box. I guess he felt sorry for me. Who knows. I decided right then I wasn't going to take the chance in the future. But none of the inspections since then have given me credit for having them. On my truck build, the LEO literally didn't look at anything. He stood at my workbench, filled out the form, checked all the boxes, and signed it. The truck had everything so I wasn't worried. But zero real inspection.

I don't have a problem with this though because (1) I could get a LEO who is a stickler (has happened to some of my friends) and I'm not interested in going back and installing something after I think the build is done, (2) There is some value in having the washers (maybe), and (3) I have a history of flipping my builds so I try to equip them so that a missing feature wouldn't prevent a sale. Wipers, washers, backup lights, among other things, have been standard for my last several builds.

[edwardb]

As updates go, not a lot of progress. But it’s where I’m at today. I’ve spent available time mostly sorting out my wiring. My approach is a lot of planning, documented in spreadsheets so I can keep track of things, then execute. Especially important if you’re making changes and/or additions. So seems slow at first. But I think I have everything accounted for so ready to start cutting and connecting in earnest.

I’m not going to try to detail every aspect. But one thing of general interest. The newer version of the Speedhut Vintage gauges (at least new to me with the 30th Anniversary Roadster) have a number of differences from the past. I haven’t looked at the latest RF wiring manual but I’m betting not all of this is documented.

First, the gauges have connectors into the back for the sensor wires. That’s a departure from when there were only wire(s) coming out. In the past, there has been some debate about whether to use the RF dash harness wires for the gauge sensors. Or use the Speedhut provided cables. Seems to me this makes the decision for you to use the Speedhut cables with the connectors. So I’m going to bypass the RF dash harness for the oil pressure and water temp sensors. The same would be true for oil temp if installed. But I don’t have that gauge on this build. I’m going to cut off the end of the fuel gauge cable. Connector into the gauge and wire spliced to the fuel wire in the dash harness. Note all the Speedhut sensor cables have a ground wire which also is a departure. This is in addition to the already existing grounds on the power side. Since I’m going to use the Speedhut cables as mentioned, not an issue. But different than before.

Additionally, my Speedhut gauge package included a “ZERO DIMMER” module for the LED-lit gauges. This also is new (to me) and is a nice addition. The variable voltage dimmer on the headlight switch doesn’t work with LED’s. Some have added aftermarket PWM modules to provide LED dimming. Which is what I assume the Speedhut module is. It’s easy enough to wire. Goes in between the various gauge wires per the instructions. The only difference is it also needs an always on battery connection. It’s controlled by a pushbutton which I mounted under the edge of the dash.

Finally, the Speedhut gauges no longer have daisy chains to hook everything together but rather these spring blocks. My old-school sense isn’t sure, but I’ll probably use them.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227593&d=1774990454

This is a picture of the dash in my basement workshop now ready to get serious with hooking everything up.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227589&d=1774983685

This is the dash area on the chassis now that I have all the wires sorted, dieted, and in some cases re-purposed based on my wiring scheme. I have most of the connectors removed. When I'm done, there will only be the two for the dash harness. For this build I’m going to use a label maker with shrink sleeve markers where appropriate. Haven’t done that before.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227588&d=1774983685

For the next few days, as time allows, I’m going to be getting the Coupe ready for the driving season. My build buddy had a set of 17-inch tires and wheels that he’s not using. So put those on the Mk5 and now it’s a roller. Sort off. The alignment is way off so not easy to push around. But took it off the lift and swapped places with the Coupe. Now the Coupe is on the lift and I’ve started working on it. Initial review, other than still dirty from last year’s driving, shows everything in good shape. Still plenty of brake pad thickness showing, rotors are fine, nothing loose or damaged, grease showing around all the moving suspension parts. Although I’ll put a couple pumps in each. In addition to the usual oil and filter change, I think I’m going to refresh the brake fluid. Basically just bleed each corner enough to replace the old with new. The rest of the fluids I’m leaving alone. Based on age, I’m due for tires. Planning to probably address that too. The only minor problem I saw was a couple drips of PS fluid at the KRC pump. The level is fine so not much. I’ll dig into that a little more. Couple days of TLC and the Coupe should be good to go.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227587&d=1774983631

I’ve been posting pictures in my garage shop since we moved here almost 9 years ago. Note the cleaner white background in this last picture. We had the 25-year-old ultra-cool hunter green (back in the 80's) garage doors replaced. Wood-like material (OSB? Masonite?) that was literally disintegrating. The new doors are steel and I opted for the thickest model with the most insulation. One of several projects we have planned for our house this year since it’s at the magic 25-year mark.

[PNWTim]

You did exactly what I did with the Speedhut gauges. I put the water temp and oil pressure into a split sleeve along with the alternator charge wire and ran them back through the firewall. I also cut off the fuel sending unit wire as well. What I did not get are those cool little connectors. Almost like the new Wagos that are everywhere for home wiring.

[PMD24]

I'm just wrapping up my electrical "journey". LOTS of hours but definitely worth the time. I will likely end up with only two connectors left behind the dash. I've disconnected the dash a few times now and it comes apart in under 5 minutes. Most electrical connections are crimp, using quality terminals and proper crimping tools. I spoke with Speedhut about the sensor leads. Shortening is not a problem. Crimp or solder is fine. And no need to use the shielding ground in most applications. So far gauges seem to operate fine.

Regarding the spring style connectors, I tossed the ones supplied by Speedhut. Used UL listed ones. While UL listing wouldn't necessarily apply here, it does demonstrate that the product has been manufactured to a certain standard. Also, although I've used solder connections sparingly (personally believe crimp is better) I did tin individual wires or wire pairs for insertion in the spring connectors. I felt that gave the connector a better "bite" on the small ga wires.

Wish I had done the labeling you describe. What label maker did you use?

Even with all of the time I spent on the wiring behind the dash still tweaks my OCD. Hard to make it look good.


Pat

[edwardb]

I'm just wrapping up my electrical "journey". LOTS of hours but definitely worth the time. I will likely end up with only two connectors left behind the dash. I've disconnected the dash a few times now and it comes apart in under 5 minutes. Most electrical connections are crimp, using quality terminals and proper crimping tools. I spoke with Speedhut about the sensor leads. Shortening is not a problem. Crimp or solder is fine. And no need to use the shielding ground in most applications. So far gauges seem to operate fine.

Regarding the spring style connectors, I tossed the ones supplied by Speedhut. Used UL listed ones. While UL listing wouldn't necessarily apply here, it does demonstrate that the product has been manufactured to a certain standard. Also, although I've used solder connections sparingly (personally believe crimp is better) I did tin individual wires or wire pairs for insertion in the spring connectors. I felt that gave the connector a better "bite" on the small ga wires.

Wish I had done the labeling you describe. What label maker did you use?

Even with all of the time I spent on the wiring behind the dash still tweaks my OCD. Hard to make it look good.

Pat

Thanks for your comments. Agree it's hard to make wiring look good. We're in the same boat there with OCD or whatever we want to call it. I've traditionally done a lot of soldering with my builds but trying to limit on this build since (arguably...) proper crimps are considered the better choice. I talked about this in an earlier post and have upgraded my crimper and the connectors I plan to use. Still not sure about those spring connectors. I will probably try them and if I'm not happy will just go old school crimp and shrink sleeve. Good tip about tinning the leads if used. I bought a LABELWORKS Epson LW-PX300VP label maker. There are many to choose from. This one wasn't very expensive. But the shrink tube tapes aren't cheap for any brand. This one was on the lower side. Everything is still in the box so no experience yet. I did a little work on the chassis side of the wiring yesterday and today my back is reminding me why I have a lift. Promised myself I won't work on the Mk5 until the Coupe maintenance is done and the Mk5 back on the lift.

[F500guy]

Just a quick reminder of my experience with the Zero Dimmer, it is nice and I put the little push button in easily accessible location with the clock and speedo button. DO NOT power your voltage sense meter or idiot light with the out put of the dimmer. The dimmer has about 1.2 volt drop between red wire input to red wire output. It will power stuff, but show a voltage drop from the input if measuring.

[edwardb]

Just a quick reminder of my experience with the Zero Dimmer, it is nice and I put the little push button in easily accessible location with the clock and speedo button. DO NOT power your voltage sense meter or idiot light with the out put of the dimmer. The dimmer has about 1.2 volt drop between red wire input to red wire output. It will power stuff, but show a voltage drop from the input if measuring.

Great input. Thanks. For grins, I will test mine to see if it does the same thing. Easy enough to work around.

Update: Today I conducted a functional test of the Speedhut Zero Dimmer module. First I attached the voltage gauge leads directly to a regulated power supply. The voltage measured 13.8 at the power supply source using my digital VOM and the gauge properly showed this voltage with the needle just below the 14 volt mark. Then I added the Zero Dimmer to the circuit. I attached the VEHICLE side red, black, and white leads to the power supply and the red, black, and white leads of the gauge to the GAUGES side. At that point, the gauge energized and lit but did not show the correct voltage. It was in the 10-11 volt range. The gauge programming button had no effect. Then I added the orange constant power battery source lead on the VEHICLE side of the Zero Dimmer to the power supply +12V source. At that point, the gauge showed the correct voltage and the gauge programming button correctly adjusted the dimming per the instructions. With the white wire of the Zero Dimmer VEHICLE side removed from the +12V source, simulating the headlight/dash circuit being off (e.g. daytime) the gauge programming button again correctly adjusted the dimming per the instructions.

Summary: The Zero Dimmer module appears to operate correctly supplying the full input voltage, the correct indication on the voltage gauge, and the day and night light brightness function, when wired per the instructions. Specifically including the constant power battery source. My wiring plan includes a connection for this wire to the main battery bus bar. Out of caution, since the RF harness has two brown gauge feed wires, I will use one as the +12V input to the Zero Dimmer module for all gauges except the voltage gauge. The other brown gauge feed I will wire directly to the voltage gauge. Bypassing the Zero Dimmer module and leaving no chance that it could affect the voltage reading. Simple change. I have two LED indicators on the dash. The cruise control LED I'll include in the same connection as the voltage gauge. The cruise control module switches the ground. The LED indicator for the cooling fan gets +12V from the fan circuit.

[rponfick]

Paul, it appears you leave your ignition switch to be hooked up last after you have everything else installed in the dash. The heavy wiring with it attached to the switch makes it a bear to work with. I have the FFR plastic, semi padded dash, and the nut threads barely catch on the switch body. Does your switch have the nub on top to orient it in the dash notch? Mine has no bumps on the switch when attaching through the dash. But, maybe your alum dash may have needed the holes cut in place for a custom fitment.
Ralph

[edwardb]

Paul, it appears you leave your ignition switch to be hooked up last after you have everything else installed in the dash. The heavy wiring with it attached to the switch makes it a bear to work with. I have the FFR plastic, semi padded dash, and the nut threads barely catch on the switch body. Does your switch have the nub on top to orient it in the dash notch? Mine has no bumps on the switch when attaching through the dash. But, maybe your alum dash may have needed the holes cut in place for a custom fitment.
Ralph

Yes, the ignition switch is one of several items that will be hooked up once the dash is in place. Basically, anything that doesn't go through the two RF dash connectors. My dash is aluminum as you said and the hole for the ignition switch is round. No flats or tabs required for the switch FF sent me. I have two coats of leather with the top coat pushed through the hole and trimmed on the back. I was able to get the nut on the front installed and carefully tightened with enough threads to firmly hold in place. I'm aware the leads to the ignition switch are stiff. But also way too long for the position of my switch. I'll be cutting the leads to fit and will install new terminals. Side note, the headlight leads are also way too long for my headlight position. Also will cut those down. Don't know how much of this applies to your setup. Hope it helps.

[edwardb]

Spent some time the last couple days working on the dash wiring. I have the gauges hooked up and working. Still more work to get the RF dash harnesses and the various switches wired in. But far enough along that I could apply power and see the gauges come alive. I like this latest version of the Speedhut Vintage gauges. Unlike the ones I’ve done before, all the wires now attach to the back of the gauges with connectors. A gauge could be removed without undoing all the wiring. Always a risk in the past.

I ended up using the Speedhut provided spring clamps. As I mentioned previously, this is their replacement for the daisy chains they used to provide. I played around with them on the bench before committing to them. I learned that the max number of wires per socket is two with the sizes used here. It’s necessary to double up since there are more than five wires of each color. I found 7/16-inch was a good strip length. Single wires held OK and survived a strong pull test. But with two wires, even tightly twisted together, it was possible to pull one of them out without a lot of effort. But tinned after twisting together was solid. So, I decided to use them and that’s what I did. I tinned the single wires as well. Used a light touch to not migrate solder further up the wire under the insulation.

I attached the spring clamps and Zero Dimmer with pieces of 3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener into available space in the center of the dash. It has a permanent adhesive that supposed to be rated for high temperature so should hold up. But the parts are still removable if necessary. I tried to leave enough slack at each gauge so that the connectors could be unplugged without too much drama. Still not very pretty but an improvement over the bird’s nest pictured back in posts #370 and #393. Routing of the gauge wires was relatively straightforward but one caution. The self-cancelling turn signal switch now included with the Mk5 takes up space behind the dash around the steering column. It's necessary to keep wires clear of that area. I applied power with my regulated power supply and no smoke. Everything is working including the dimming function. Calibrated the tach and fuel gauge successfully. The bundle of wires out the bottom of the dash goes to the dash harness legs. That’s next. Pictures below. I’ve repurposed a number of the wires so will mark them with my new wire marker.

This is unrelated to the dash but related to the wiring so thought I would mention. I’ve been finalizing my wiring plan for the rest of the circuits and it bothered me that I had this nice 30 amp circuit with a relay, aka the RF cooling fan circuit, that was unused. The Coyote control pack controls and powers the radiator cooling fan and I’m not installing A/C where both cooling fan circuits are used. In the past few builds for me, the RF cooling fan circuit was battery powered and the fan would stay running even if the ignition was off as long as the temp sensor was still closed. Some liked this because it provided continued cooling. Others, like me, were skeptical because it had every opportunity to run down the battery. Way back on my first couple builds that was not the case. Turn off the ignition and everything shut down. I decided to dig into the wiring and see if I could modify something to make the cooling fan circuit ignition controlled (again). What I found is I didn’t have to do anything. Looks like they changed it again. While the cooling fan power is coming from the battery side of the fuse panel, the power for the relay coil is tapped onto the ignition side of the fuse panel. So, ignition off, the relay can’t close, and the fan won’t run. Nice! I can use as is. All that’s needed is to permanently ground one of the green thermo switch wires which completes the ground circuit for the relay. Now I can use the 30 amp circuit for the ignition switched bus bar. Which is want I wanted. Probably this sounds confusing, but I tried…

Making progress on getting the Coupe ready for the driving season. All that's left is basic clean-up and tires. New tires are supposed to be here next week. After looking at a number of brands, ended up with BFGoodrich g-Force Rival S 1.5’s. An updated version of the tires I’m replacing. Choice was based on availability plus I was happy with these.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227843&d=1775427356

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227842&d=1775427356

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227841&d=1775427356

[Busaboyjd]

Following

Thank you in advance!

Jeff

[Sharris2]

Did those ring washers come with your headlight and ignition switch?

[edwardb]

Did those ring washers come with your headlight and ignition switch?

There's no washer on the ignition switch. Just the nut that came with the switch. I did add a washer under the headlight switch. The nut that comes with the switch works better with a washer. It's an SS washer that I polished enough to make it look like it belonged.

[edwardb]

I mostly completed the wiring on the back of the dash. Still need to make the connections to the ignition, headlight, heater, heated seats, and wiper switches. But all the interconnects with the gauges and various switches and indicators are done through to the dash harness connectors. As mentioned previously, I repurposed some of the wires (unused for their original RF purpose) and put wire markers on them with my new Epson shrink sleeve wire marker. Worked great. I tried to put the markers oriented so I could read them when assembled. But now not so much. That’s OK. If ever have to take anything apart the marking will be there. Plus, I have everything documented in my wiring spreadsheet. Note I put the clock set switch into the glovebox side. Reachable inside which I’ve done before.

Speaking of the clock, some have commented in the past about the poor accuracy of the Speedhut clock. I recall it was Jeff Kleiner who observed the clock jumped a minute or two every time the power was cycled, e.g. with a master disconnect. Switching often could certainly get it way off. I noticed this exact thing when I was power testing. The clock hands moved every time I reconnected power. I won’t have this issue with my final installation. I wired the clock to use the Coyote control pack HAAT B (Hot At All Times) wire. Since the control pack is always on (powered by the unswitched side of the master disconnect, as described before) only disconnecting the battery would affect the clock. Among other things.

After everything was routed and tied down, checked proper continuity on the switches and electrically tested the gauges, lights, dimming, etc. I did this before but this time through the pins in the connectors. Everything passed and it’s ready to install onto the chassis and plug into the main harness. Next up I’m going to finish the glovebox door and then the dash really will be done.

This was also an opportunity to extensively use my new haisstronica wire crimper and the Molex Perma-Seal butt connectors. Everything here is the red, 22-18 gauge size. Huge thumbs up for both. I did a pull test for each wire after crimping and before shrinking the sleeve with a heat gun. Solid every time. I had an issue with one (I only got the wire in about half-way before crimping. Oops) so had to replace it. I dissected the bad one and confirmed how well it was crimping the wire. I’ll be using this process wherever applicable from now on. So basically no soldering on everything here. Unlike the past. Only time the soldering iron was out was to tin the wires going into the spring connectors and the hi-lo beam switch. Plus one connection that was two wires connected to one that didn't work with the size butt connectors I have on hand. Regarding the ongoing theme of it being hard to make wiring pretty, still true. But everything is as neat and direct as I could make it. Pictures below.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227973&d=1775772784

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227974&d=1775772784

The Coupe is completely serviced and has its new tires installed. Ready to hit the road after it gets waxed. I was kicked out of the “no-waxer” club. :p Our first GLCC club event is next Saturday.

[AndrewIdaho]

Thanks Paul for the great detail on the dash wiring. I am a few weeks from starting mine and I have a couple of questions:

a. I notice that you are using the speedhut zero dimmer. What effect will that provide compared to the dimming feature provided with the headlight switch?
b. How are you intending to connect the water temp, oil pressure sensors as the cable provided with them seems excessively long.

My thanks again.
Andrew

[edwardb]

Thanks Paul for the great detail on the dash wiring. I am a few weeks from starting mine and I have a couple of questions:

a. I notice that you are using the speedhut zero dimmer. What effect will that provide compared to the dimming feature provided with the headlight switch?
b. How are you intending to connect the water temp, oil pressure sensors as the cable provided with them seems excessively long.

My thanks again.
Andrew

You're welcome. Good luck with yours. For your questions:

a. The dimming function on the headlight switch is variable voltage. These Speedhut gauges are all LED lighting. Turning the headlight dimmer will only work as an on-off switch when the voltage drops below what the LED's need to light. The Zero Dimmer provides actual dimming for the LED's which I suspect is Pulse Width Modulation (PWM). It also has a pretty cool feature with a memory function for day and night settings. So you can have the gauge lighting during the daytime without the lights on.

b. I'm going to home run the Speedhut provided cables from the sensors to the dash gauges directly. Bypassing the RF harness. Agreed they're likely too long. I'll shorten as necessary. No big deal. First time I've done it this way. Two reasons: For this latest version of the Speedhut gauges they have ground wires on the sensor connections. Not sure why it's necessary because the gauges are also grounded by the power connection. But going with it. The bigger reason though is several years ago Speedhut changed from a 2-wire resistive oil pressure sensor to a 3-wire voltage based sensor. The RF harness only includes one wire. Simplest is to just use the Speedhut cable.

Hope this answers your questions.

[AndrewIdaho]

Thanks Paul for the insight on the zero dimmer. I am still debating in my mind whether to home run the sensors or adding a connector to them (as I shorten them) to aid removal of the dash in the future. I will follow your build with great interest to see where you end up.

Best Regards, Andrew

[edwardb]

Today I put the final touches on the glovebox. That makes the dash complete less the interconnects from other sources mentioned in my last update. In my last glovebox update, I showed the completed box attached to the dash. This update is all about the door, hinges, and latch.

The door is similar to what I’ve fabricated before. Front (.050" thick) and back (.040" thick) pieces, each covered and wrapped so the inside is finished as well as the outside. The difference this time is the front is slightly larger and closes against the outside of the dash rather than fitting inside the hole in the dash.

This is the two door pieces and determining the hinge locations. In all cases, had to account for the added thickness of the leather applied later.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228202&d=1776222560

The 6-32 screws for the hinges are through the door front. Countersunk, JB Welded in place, and then buried with another dose of JB Weld. Sanded flat they completely disappeared under the leather. This is the same process I used to attach the box to the dash.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228203&d=1776222560

The front of the door has two layers of leather. Same as the dash. I used 3M Hi-Strength Spray Adhesive 90 and DAP Weldwood Gel Contact Cement for the edge wrap. Same products used on the pieces earlier. The latch is a piece I found on Amazon. It’s plastic and a little large. But seems like a decent piece. Works well and the pull is a good size. Didn’t use the VW latch I’ve used in the past. The two halves are held together with the hinge bolts at the bottom and the latch at the top. I ran a bead of silicone around the inside perimeter just for good measure. But probably not needed. Pictured here wrapped and complete.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228205&d=1776222560

Open and fully leather lined inside. Did the inside back during assembly of the box. Added the side wraparound just a little while ago to finish things off. The push button up in the top corner is the set button for the clock. Mentioned that before too.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228206&d=1776222560

Final view overall. Nothing left to do but mount it in the chassis. Happy with how it turned out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228204&d=1776222560

On a separate note, the Coupe is ready to go. Took it for a brief 15-20 mile cruise around a course I often use. All seems perfect. The new tires are great. Always like the feeling of new tires compared to the aged out tires they replaced. Coyote ran perfectly, the A/C blew cold. Life is good.

[rponfick]

Paul, great work as usual. I bet you can sit on that glovebox door and not exceed the strength of those hinges. Just kidding.
Ralph

[edwardb]

Paul, great work as usual. I bet you can sit on that glovebox door and not exceed the strength of those hinges. Just kidding.
Ralph

Thanks. Yeah, those are cabinet hinges so definitely overkill for the glovebox door. Their main positive is the geometry. They lift the door out of the opening and stop it with the door horizontal. I learned about them from Alex's Custom Roadster Interiors when he was supplying dash covering and gloveboxes back in the day. I've used these several times since. I looked for alternatives but nothing I found worked quite the same. Some brands and I think on originals a piano hinge is used. But I wanted something hidden and I was familiar with this setup.

[Papa]

Paul -- Now I have to redo my glove box! I wrapped the door in carbon fiber vinyl, but the inside doesn't have a nice finished look. Seeing your approach, I know what I have to do to fix it.

Thanks,
Dave

[PNWTim]

Always nice to wrap up a milestone, not to mention getting the Coupe out on the road. I sure wish the coupe had a finished "horseshoe" trim piece like the round one on the roadster for the steering shaft. Your dash looks great and I'm glad I don't have a glove box - I'd be in the same boat as Dave and probably starting over!

[CDXXVII]

Thanks. Yeah, those are cabinet hinges so definitely overkill for the glovebox door. Their main positive is the geometry. They lift the door out of the opening and stop it with the door horizontal. I learned about them from Alex's Custom Roadster Interiors when he was supplying dash covering and gloveboxes back in the day. I've used these several times since. I looked for alternatives but nothing I found worked quite the same. Some brands and I think on originals a piano hinge is used. But I wanted something hidden and I was familiar with this setup.

Edward, I love your work. Mine is similar in design except I used hinges I found on McMaster. I just missed being able to buy Alex's

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147811&d=1620917824

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218625&d=1552097702

[edwardb]

Edward, I love your work. Mine is similar in design except I used hinges I found on McMaster.

Thanks! I actually have those hinges also from McMaster. Probably purchased them based on reviewing your build. I've tried to use them on a couple builds, including this one, but the geometry just didn't work for me.

[jengum]

How much of a lip is there for the front piece that rests on the dash? It looks like roughly 1/2".

[edwardb]

How much of a lip is there for the front piece that rests on the dash? It looks like roughly 1/2".

I assume you mean the front glovebox door? It's only about 1/4-inch or less overlapping the opening. Just enough to cover the rounded lip of the opening. I didn't make the inner door a tight fit to the opening. That's probably where you're seeing the 1/2-inch or so. I didn't think there way any reason to make the inner door an exact fit and complicate the alignment process.

[PMD24]

I really like the look of the door sitting on the dash this way.

Pat

[jengum]

I assume you mean the front glovebox door? It's only about 1/4-inch or less overlapping the opening. Just enough to cover the rounded lip of the opening. I didn't make the inner door a tight fit to the opening. That's probably where you're seeing the 1/2-inch or so. I didn't think there way any reason to make the inner door an exact fit and complicate the alignment process.

Yes...that was my question. Thank you!

[edwardb]

Slim update today with no pictures. Couple weeks ago we swapped places in the garage with the Coupe and Mk5 so I could put the Coupe on the lift for annual maintenance. The front alignment on the Mk5 was so wonky we could hardly push it. Mainly toe-in that was in inches rather than fractions. I decided to do something about it. Not a final alignment, but get it close so it could be moved easier, could do my usual low speed go-kart, and hopefully be quick and easy to finish. I learned a couple things in the process that I thought I would share. I’ve done my own alignments for every build and have decent tools to make it happen.

First, the manual says 4-1/2 inches front and rear for ride height. Rear was in range but front was just over 3-1/2 inches. Note that’s with the coilovers installed with the adjusting collars just touching the springs. Enough that the springs don’t move. In order to get the front up to 4-1/2 inches I had to adjust the collars in 4+ turns. Usually it’s the other direction, e.g. they need to be loosened. This could be because of the silver double adjustable shocks that the manual says to mount in the upper holes in the chassis. But that’s just a guess. So fair warning to 30th anniversary builders or if you chose them as optional. Not sure they’re available though. I was glad I had a Joes Racing 33500 coilover spanner wrench to move the adjusters against the coils. I could have cobbled up something to move the collars. But they're not easy to turn against the springs. The purpose made spanner wrench is the better option.

Second, after the usual go-around several times, I have toe and camber close and caster in the 7-8 power steering range. This is without trimming the adjusters on the upper control arms. I had the same experience with the Coupe. I was able to get the power steering specs without trimming. FWIW since this comes up in discussions. Seems maybe the newer chassis designs (Gen3 Coupe and Mk5 Roadster) don’t require trimming as in the past? Your experience may vary, but this is what I’ve found.

I didn’t do anything with the rear suspension yet. It’s relatively easy with only camber and toe and the settings are pretty subtle. I’ll dial it in and finalize the front later when I have my own tires and rims installed. Right now I have loaner 17-inch wheels/tires from a buddy.

On a totally different front, I’m now making progress on chassis wiring at the dash. Today I eliminated the front and rear harness connectors. Those two locations are now directly wired with the Molex butt connectors described earlier. Cleans things up and saves valuable space. Also got the heater and heater valve wiring extended and into the dash area. Too soon for pictures though. Everything else is still kind of a mess. Next up is the Coyote control pack wiring. All the behind the dash harness legs are way too long. So will get them routed and shortened as necessary. Still plenty to do and I’m slow with wiring. This won’t be the last partial update.

[edwardb]

Been plugging away on the chassis wiring. Lots going on with Sharon’s knee rehab and now we have several major home improvement projects underway. That I'm paying for. Not DIY although still takes time. But I digress. I’ve got the driver footbox wiring done. Now working on the center portion. Not to get too far into the weeds, but in addition to taking apart and reconfiguring both the RF and Ford Control Pack harnesses, I’ve added wires, including everything needed for the cruise control (kind of a lot actually0, TKX neutral safety switch paralleled with the Coyote clutch switch, trunk light, DRL’s, backup lights, heated seats, and a couple of indicator LED’s. I’ve got the main battery power now connected to the battery bus bar. Using the RF fan circuit with the ground permanently connected to power my ignition bus bar (mentioned previously) works perfectly. I’ve been testing as I go and so far everything is working with +12V where it’s supposed to be and no smoke. Pictures of wiring doesn't look great, but here you go.

Driver’s side footbox. Visible here in addition to the rats nest on the back of the RF fuse panel is the elimination of the front harness connectors, RF and some of the Coyote grounds to the chassis, grounds for the turn signal relays at the bottom, and routing of the Coyote clutch safety switch wires.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228617&d=1777383133

Driver’s side dash area. The long wires still hanging down are the headlight switch, ignition switch, and wires for the cruise control and headlight module. All need to be shortened and terminated. Also visible here is the removal of the rear harness connectors. Tied all the wires together with the same Molex butt connectors as used elsewhere and discussed previously. The only RF connectors remaining are the two dash connectors. Also removed the Coyote pigtail connector and directly connected those several wires.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228615&d=1777383133

Closer view of the previous picture. Right now I’m not sure if I’m going to wrap the large bundle of wires across the back of the dash. Really not needed from a protection standpoint. Citing again advice from the avionics guys during my airplane build (sorry for the multiple references…) they advised against wrapping when not needed. Clearly needed for harnesses around the engine, under chassis, etc. But here adds complication to troubleshooting and repair if ever required. We’ll see.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228616&d=1777383133

Finally, this is where I located the ODB2 port. Which is alive BTW. I’m still finalizing the location for the inertia switch, hence the spring clamp. I think it’s going there. But I want to wait a little longer for everything else.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228618&d=1777383133

That’s it for now. Hope to get this wrapped up in the next couple weeks. First start can’t be too far away? I’ve been watching and poking around in the new version of the forum. Wasn’t sure if I should be updating here or there. Will continue here until I hear differently.

[Ray Mac]

edwardb,

I just found this build thread, great info!

I am building #30-30 Roadster. so far it is looking like yours, minus the awesome upgrades you are putting in. This is my first kit build, second car build, I previously owned a MK1 that was a 55th birthday gift from my wife 16 years ago. My first car build (early 90's) started out as a 1928 Ford Model A Phaeton (rusty tub) body minus everything! I sourced or built every single part to turn it into a Street Rod.

Like you I noticed the problem with the front LCA's after the front was assembled, it is coming back apart for a permanent fix as the replacement 90* zerk leaked under pressure. FFR Tech said it doesn't matter if I leave the straight zerk fitting in because The original load of grease should last FOREVER with the milage most people drive these! (Mind Blown!)
What I really don't understand is why the rear LCA's have the zerk fittings on the bottom completely accessible from down under and the fronts not so much.

Thank you so much for this build thread, it has been a wealth of knowledge. Also, I am very jealous of your two post!

Ray
30-30 Bullet

PS: The panel in your airplane looks a lot like the panel in my RV-12, Pair of G3X's, 650XI, Garmin AP, Excellent choices!