Rick's Mark V Roadster Build

[cv2065]

Have not posted in a while as my car has been with Mike at Spotlight Customs for a while. He is making progress and I Should get the go-kart back next week to finalize some things before the body goes back on. He is making progress. Very exciting.

Where's the pics from Mike? :)

[rickster991]

Where's the pics from Mike? :)

I think I figured it out. The administrator mentioned they have to be less than 2 MB. Not sure if this is a new restriction. iPhone photos are typically larger than that. I had to use the computer to resize them.

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[cv2065]

I think I figured it out. The administrator mentioned they have to be less than 2 MB. Not sure if this is a new restriction. iPhone photos are typically larger than that. I had to use the computer to resize them.

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Looking good! If you store your photos on Photobucket, you can post them any size you want. Also keeps the album together. Costs $10 a month, but worth it during the build to me.

[rickster991]

I got the go-kart back so I can finish some final items on the list before giving it back for assembly after the body is painted. It's good to have it back. I missed it!

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Step 1 was to relocate the heat exchange and wiper motor mount so that I can access the windshield bolts more easily. It was next to impossible for me to get my hand in there the way I had it. I also decided to add some rivet nuts to the wiper motor mount so I can remove it without needing to remove the panel if I need to.

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The next task was to move the water temperature sensor. I originally placed it using the opening near the thermostat. The problem with this location was that I was not getting an accurate reading until the thermostat opened. This location can bee seen in the picture of the new installed sensor. So I bought an in-line hose adapter to move it to the main heater hose line. Here is the link: https://a.co/d/04DJS4CF The supplied sensor would not fit. After speaking to SpeedHut they confirmed I could cut the sensor as long as it was below the demarcation ring.

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After reading some posts about wiring the Neutral Safety switch, I learned that it is necessary to use a relay instead of using the TKO circuit directly. So I rewired it using a relay. While I was there I decided to install the clutch safety switch as well. These are wired in parallel so that I can start the motor with either. I then attached the relay in a place I could easily get to it if needed. I tested the wiring before connecting the starter solenoid wire and it worked correctly. So I then wired the starter and it worked in both scenarios!

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And then finally I attached a Cobra emblem to the steering wheel. I like the look. I may add a black ring around it later.

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[rickster991]

I have this strange issue with gauges. The back light is always on. Even when the key is off. I checked all the wiring and it is correct. I sent this video to Speedhut and they agreed. They are sending me a new dimmer. Hopefully it solves my issue.


https://youtube.com/shorts/jYZdPmACpl4?feature=share

[rickster991]

UPDATE: SpeedHut sent me a new Zero Dimmer and it fixed the issue I was having. Must have been a faulty unit.

Fired up the engine and the temp sensor in the new location works perfectly. It started registering at 125 degrees, and matched the sniper readings.

[rickster991]

I installed a Heidts valve to reduce the power steering help. I started the car to test for leaks and it’s all good. I chose to install a pressure gauge to make it easier to adjust. It did not register anything??? Anyone install one before? Did I place it on the correct port? It is installed with the wording facing forward, so you are seeing the back of the valve in the picture. The gauge is on the “Pressure In” port.

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[rickster991]

UPDATE: Heidts valve helped. Steering feels much better. I turned it 6 turns counterclockwise. After speaking with Heidts the gauge goes on the high-pressure out port. AND it only shows pressure when you turn the wheel not in static mode.

[rickster991]

The last thing I needed to get done before returning the go-kart to the painter was to route the AC vents. Wow there is absolutely no room, but I was able to get it done. The first issue to solve was where to put the vents. Because of leg room I could not place them on the dash. I had to recess them back to give clearance. For the driver side I created a bracket and secured it to the dash support. The passenger side is simply directly attached to the evaporator.

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The next step was to figure out how to make my defroster function only when needed. I found some parts on Amazon to do the trick. First was a motorized damper control. I needed it quick, so my only option was a 3” 24V version. So this required a 24V relay, some 3”->2.5” adapters, and a 12V->24V step-up transformer.

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https://a.co/d/0d19pkVi
https://a.co/d/0f0NoAne
https://a.co/d/03kBPanf
https://a.co/d/0iNg4fpc

I was able to wire it to a round LED switch that fit in the AC control panel. I connected the “normally closed”, 87a, wire to the off position and the accessory wire, 87, to the on position of the motor. The “common connect”, 30, was connected to the 24V source and the “positive trigger”, 86, was connected to the switch which was also connected to the 24V source.

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https://a.co/d/01TSqpRO

It worked! It’s funny how I’m still amazed when my contraptions actually work. My only concern is will there be enough room for the actual defrost vents. I’ll find out when I get it back to the painter. Fingers crossed!


https://youtube.com/shorts/h0P3klHAzOc?si=HLnu_lkW5iDwwSiT

[Mike.Bray]

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As we say down here it looks like you've got 6 gallons in a 5 gallon bucket! Good luck with all that.

[rickster991]

As we say down here it looks like you've got 6 gallons in a 5 gallon bucket! Good luck with all that.

Yep!