Rick's Mark V Roadster Build

[Reddrig]

Yes,those are the latest revision to the hood hing parts. When assembled they should look like this (after you chuck the wave washers into the trash can ;))

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217562&d=1755105163

Jeff

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Jeff,

This was a frustrating piece to get together, you build this car and then you feel stupid putting a hinge together. First off the directions really don’t show the correct placement of the two arms that attach to the base. Then the kit includes the wave washers and regular washer same amount. I used the regular washers and chucked the wave washers. Does this look correct? Anyway thanks for the pointers.

[rickster991]

My engine arrived and it is showing a healthy 436 HP and 438 lb-ft! It will be going in tomorrow.

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I want to install all the sensors while it's outside. I'll be using this https://a.co/d/01mXbcC I assume this is a good spot for the water temperature?

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I bought this from Amazon for the oil pressure and temperature sensors, https://a.co/d/76Zztp6 But I noticed these fittings in the block. Can they be used instead?

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Very exciting day. I got to update my signature! :)

[rickster991]

Engine install was a fail! I’m stuck at this point. I’m not sure if I need a different engine hoist, but the arm is not long enough to get the engine in place. I am about 6 inches short from reaching the mounts. The cross members for the front clip are blocking the hoist from getting the engine in place.

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Another suggestion I would have for people using the brake booster is wait until after installing the engine to install it. At least for me it created issues.

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I don’t know if I can get a longer arm? Or I may just have to cut and the cross members and weld them back together after. They don’t seem structural? Just need to hold radiator and body? Thoughts?

[edwardb]

What size engine hoist is that? Most agree the reach of the 2 ton model is necessary. What I have and have installed engines into multiple builds and has adequate reach. Including the long nose of the Gen 3 Coupe. I haven't tried on my Mk5 yet. It is possible to put the engine in from the side. Some do that with the body on. No reason it wouldn't work with the body off. For goodness sake, don't cut and re-weld chassis tubes. For a bunch of reasons.

[rickster991]

The arm is 45” to the jack. I can try from the side. That might work. Fingers crossed.

[rickster991]

I owe you a beer!!! That worked like a champ!! It’s in. Thank you!

[Reddrig]

Need some pictures to admire!

[rickster991]

Coming soon!

[BUDFIVE]

Rick, great-you were due a break after the front try-you even offered the Garage Gods a bag of Organic Bed Soil (your pic 1)! It wasn’t funny until you were successful, I promise. Keep on movin’ forward.

[Reddrig]

Rick, do you mind covering your motor install. I’m guessing I’ll run into the same issue with my install on not enough arm to get the motor in from the front. I’m assuming you just came in from the side and turned the motor manually on the chains and guided it it? Just want to cross my t’s before I drop it in. Thanks in advance.

[rponfick]

I am glad I will be using a chain hoist from the ceiling. Move the car, not the motor.
I have used the engine hoists in the past and always had fun with something.

Glad you prevailed.

Ralph.

[rickster991]

OK here goes...

I watched several videos and read as mush as I could and proceeded to install my freshly delivered BluePrint 347. Seeing my large investment dangling in the air waiting to come crashing down and taking out other parts with it was nerve-racking. To say I was nervous is an understatement. The first step was to get the engine on the hoist. Here is a picture of my hoist, as it will become the antagonist in this epic. It is sold under different names, but here is a link Target (https://www.target.com/p/2-ton-heavy-duty-folding-engine-hoist-shop-crane-with-6-casters-engine-lift-lever-4000lb-capacity-for-automotive-workshop-use-red/-/A-1005108525?TCID=OGS&AFID=google&CPNG=Home%2BImprovement+-+Target+Plus&adgroup=85-9&srsltid=AfmBOoov3oMesFIXyIbYeuXbmR5JxWt8xjJmvUTHtR-Mf07KsLCNwlbPEa0)

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My first attempt was at the 1 ton setting. The specs for the 347 + TKX listed at ~750 lbs so that's why I chose it. A few of the videos I watched mentioned using the 500 lb setting for ease of installation, but they were able to manage at 1 ton. Most of the videos I watched were for Mark IVs. Because of the layout of my garage my plan was to roll the car to the engine and then use my lift to raise the back of the car if needed.

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After trying different tactics it was clear the arm was not going to be long enough. I thought that was going to be the case, but I wanted to try the safest route first. So I dropped the engine on jack stands and reconfigured the hoist. Here is where the bag or organic top soil comes into the picture @BUDFIVE. I was afraid it would tip over and needed some ballast. It weighed 50 lbs and would mould itself to the hoist. Perfect! I could have used just regular soil, but nothing but the best for this build! :)

Here is a picture of the resting place in case you need to readjust and are looking for a configuration that worked.

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AS you know from my previous posts this was a fail as well. The engine would not clear the brake booster until I lifted the back of the car to create a steep angle. I don't think anyone without a lift could do this. I was hoping that if I could get the engine in that I could get it on the mounts. I was able to get it past the brake booster but I could not get anywhere near the mounts. At this point I posted the posts above and asked the experts for help. Here are some pictures of the arm at full extension, 45" measured from chain to jack pivot, and the cross members hitting the hoist. The bag of soil worked flawlessly!

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The third try worked thanks to @edwardb!!! It seems so obvious once you see it. But I would have never thought to try from the side. I put jack stands on the frame directly between the wheels so as to not block the hoist and then removed the wheel to get maximum clearance. At first I thought it was not going to work or I would need to remove the brake caliper. But once I moved the hoist towards the firewall, the leg cleared the front cross member. So I repositioned the jack stands to it and then there was plenty of clearance as I moved the hoist closer to the firewall. It was really crazy how little you need to turn the release valve for the engine to plummet! I suggest practicing this where no damage can happen. It did take me several tries to get the engine to drop into the bolt slot and the pin slots. I kept getting one or the other to fall in place. What finally worked for me was getting one in place and then tightening down the bolt so it was loose enough to move, but tight enough to not allow the pin to leave its channel.

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So finally it's in and looks great. I was going to paint over the LizardSkin in body color, but it dried a flat black that I really like. So I am going to leave it.

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I did make a video. I keep family and friends up to date with videos, so that is the intended audience. I posted it to my youtube channel if you are interested.


https://youtu.be/Sr4jSUPL7cM

[rickster991]

I ran out of room for pictures on the last post so a few more comments on the install. The bolts supplied with the mounts are too long for the engine mounts. I was able to use the bolts used to ship the engine instead. Don't throw those out!

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I removed the shifter prior to the install as others have suggested. I need to flip it anyway.

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The transmission mount interferes with the end of the transmission. It will not rest on it. It probably need to be trimmed about a 1/8". I am waiting to install the driveshaft to see if I can just use spaces instead of trimming. But it is about 1.5" from resting. Experts, should I trim the mount?

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In case you are wondering I test fit the headers and they will go right in with no issues. You just need to remove the spark plug wires.

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And finally, some asked about battery removal once the engine is in. The battery I chose will come out and clear the front assembly and may come out the bottom of the frame, but I doubt it. Getting it out will be major surgery with at least removal of the headers. Buy a battery that will last and keep it on a tender!!!!

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[2nd2none]

Engine install was a fail! I’m stuck at this point. I’m not sure if I need a different engine hoist, but the arm is not long enough to get the engine in place. I am about 6 inches short from reaching the mounts. The cross members for the front clip are blocking the hoist from getting the engine in place.

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Another suggestion I would have for people using the brake booster is wait until after installing the engine to install it. At least for me it created issues.

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I don’t know if I can get a longer arm? Or I may just have to cut and the cross members and weld them back together after. They don’t seem structural? Just need to hold radiator and body? Thoughts?

Would the brake booster still be an issue if had a longer reaching hoist?

[Reddrig]

Would the brake booster still be an issue if had a longer reaching hoist?

FFR has a video on the website of the same engine (427) being installed, it appears they have a longer boom and drop it in over the booster. FYI

[rickster991]

Would the brake booster still be an issue if had a longer reaching hoist?

No. When I installed from the side there was no issue.

[Mike.Bray]

When I pulled my engine from the completed car the HF 2T hoist did not have enough reach so I ran down to the local Metal Supermarket and picked up a piece of heavy wall RHS to make an extension. This worked fine except the hoist was very very light on the back end so like you I added some ballast. I also found moving the car is a lot easier than moving the hoist with the engine & trans hanging on it.

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[rponfick]

Rick, you sure are a handsome fellow. Nice engine install video.
Now that you have completed the engine install, humor me with a small question. I installed my fuse box today and used the same location and spacer your used. The panel fits nicely. Did your brake/clutch wires reach over to the pedal switches? It is a minor issue to splice in some extensions, but mine are about 6" short.
Just curious. Keep up the great posts.
Ralph

[rickster991]

Rick, you sure are a handsome fellow. Nice engine install video.
Now that you have completed the engine install, humor me with a small question. I installed my fuse box today and used the same location and spacer your used. The panel fits nicely. Did your brake/clutch wires reach over to the pedal switches? It is a minor issue to splice in some extensions, but mine are about 6" short.
Just curious. Keep up the great posts.
Ralph

Thanks! No I did not have to extend them. Here is a picture of my setup.

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[rickster991]

Today I installed the driveshaft and headers. The headers went in without issue. After reading issues about bolts coming loose, I bought Stage 8 locking fasteners. Since they are stainless, should I use anti-seize? I have not tightened them as I’m waiting for a thin-wall socket to arrive.

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The driveshaft was an exercise in patience. The manual suggests trying from the passenger side which does not work because the e-brake bracket is in the way. I was able to get it above the diff from the driver side. With lots of wiggling and using a transmission jack to raise and lower as needed, it went in. I was not able to torque the bolts as you need a ball-end socket. This is also on order. It looks like the pinion angle is fine, so I decided to grind the bracket so the transmission would lay flat on the brace.

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I then began the engine wiring. I wired the gauges and connected the starter wires. I ended up having to extend the trigger wire.

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Do I use this wire for the high-beam switch, and ground it separately?

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[Mike.Bray]

Since they are stainless, should I use anti-seize?

Absolutely use anti-seize. Especially going into aluminum.

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[rickster991]

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I know funny and that’s funny!

[rponfick]

Thanks! No I did not have to extend them. Here is a picture of my setup.

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Rick, thanks. I think I made the mistake of running my main harness out of the fuse box over the steering bracket. Moving it to below the bracket seems to fit but will have to be careful to isolate from the steering shaft.
Ralph

[rponfick]

Thanks! No I did not have to extend them. Here is a picture of my setup.

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Rick, thanks. I think I made the mistake of running my main harness out of the fuse box over the steering bracket. Moving it to below the bracket seems to fit but will have to be careful to isolate from the steering shaft.
Also, back of your dash is neat. What is the common connector you used to combine the red/black/white gauge wires?
Ralph

[rickster991]

Today was wiring day. I was able to install the grounding straps for the battery and block. I verified connectivity with a voltmeter and all is well. I chose an available port on the intake manifold for the water temp and used the port next to oil filter for the oil pressure sensor. I added an oil temperature sensor by using this adapter I got on Amazon. https://a.co/d/hMz0WqL// it installed easily and there is plenty of room.

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With this complete I capped off all unused wires, connected all the dash components, crossed my fingers and connected the battery. I’m happy to report no mystery smoke and everything worked! Headlights, turn signals, brake/running lights, license plate and the horns! I am ecstatic. Another big milestone.

The next step was to wire up the Sniper. You need connect power and 3 wires for the basic setup. Fuel Pump +12v(Blue), switched ignition 12v(pink), and coil -(yellow). The yellow is straight forward. After research I determined most folks are splicing the pink to the RF EFI/Coil(orange), and the blue to the RF Fuel Pump(tan). I was hoping to avoid splicing so I studied the diagram and fuse box to see if I could find an alternative. There is an alternate switched source available, RF Electric Choke. It is 10A instead of 15A, but the pink wire is tiny so that should not be an issue. Thoughts? I could not find an alternative for the blue wire. I did not want the EFI controlling the fuel pump, because that would bypass the Inertia Switch. Since it is connecting on the output side, I assume this is an input signal so it knows the pump is on??? Here is a diagram I put together from my research.

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Finally installed relays and dressed the wires. I need to hook up the fan control. I think I just need to connect the black/yellow wire to the fan line. Tomorrow is plumbing day and then final checks before first start.

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[rickster991]

Rick, thanks. I think I made the mistake of running my main harness out of the fuse box over the steering bracket. Moving it to below the bracket seems to fit but will have to be careful to isolate from the steering shaft.
Also, back of your dash is neat. What is the common connector you used to combine the red/black/white gauge wires?
Ralph

Those were in my gauge box. They make it really easy.

[edwardb]

The next step was to wire up the Sniper. You need connect power and 3 wires for the basic setup. Fuel Pump +12v(Blue), switched ignition 12v(pink), and coil -(yellow). The yellow is straight forward. After research I determined most folks are splicing the pink to the RF EFI/Coil(orange), and the blue to the RF Fuel Pump(tan). I was hoping to avoid splicing so I studied the diagram and fuse box to see if I could find an alternative. There is an alternate switched source available, RF Electric Choke. It is 10A instead of 15A, but the pink wire is tiny so that should not be an issue. Thoughts? I could not find an alternative for the blue wire. I did not want the EFI controlling the fuel pump, because that would bypass the Inertia Switch. Since it is connecting on the output side, I assume this is an input signal so it knows the pump is on??? Here is a diagram I put together from my research.

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Using the Ron Francis +12V choke wire for a sense wire to your EFI computer is fine. I've done the same with Coyote builds. You can have the RF inertia switch still in the circuit. I'm assuming you're using the RF +12V fuel pump wire back to the pump. If you break into the fuel pump relay in the RF fuse panel, you can use the +12V from your Sniper system to energize the relay and the actual power for the pump comes from the RF panel. The FF Coyote installation instructions show how to break into the RF wiring for this to work and I think this would work with your system. Screenshot attached. Not sure I understand what you're doing with the RF Coil/EFI wire. But then I haven't installed a Sniper.

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[rickster991]

Update: I’ve been doing some more reading on the dark blue wire. It seems it is an output and not an input. I don’t think I should use it??

“Safety Features: The Sniper system has built-in safety features like priming the pump for a few seconds on key-on and then only activating it when an RPM signal is detected, and this functionality should be preserved.”

With RF it’s wired to key on. Not sure when you have key on and no RPM? Weak battery?

[rickster991]

Using the Ron Francis +12V choke wire for a sense wire to your EFI computer is fine. I've done the same with Coyote builds. You can have the RF inertia switch still in the circuit. I'm assuming you're using the RF +12V fuel pump wire back to the pump. If you break into the fuel pump relay in the RF fuse panel, you can use the +12V from your Sniper system to energize the relay and the actual power for the pump comes from the RF panel. The FF Coyote installation instructions show how to break into the RF wiring for this to work and I think this would work with your system. Screenshot attached. Not sure I understand what you're doing with the RF Coil/EFI wire. But then I haven't installed a Sniper.

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Ah that makes sense. Replace the switched power to the relay with the “safer switched power” of the EFI. Thanks again @edwardb! I definitely need to change my blue wire.

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The RF coil wire is going straight to the coil.

[rponfick]

Today was wiring day. I was able to install the grounding straps for the battery and block. I verified connectivity with a voltmeter and all is well. I chose an available port on the intake manifold for the water temp and used the port next to oil filter for the oil pressure sensor. I added an oil temperature sensor by using this adapter I got on Amazon. https://a.co/d/hMz0WqL// it installed easily and there is plenty of room.

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With this complete I capped off all unused wires, connected all the dash components, crossed my fingers and connected the battery. I’m happy to report no mystery smoke and everything worked! Headlights, turn signals, brake/running lights, license plate and the horns! I am ecstatic. Another big milestone.

The next step was to wire up the Sniper. You need connect power and 3 wires for the basic setup. Fuel Pump +12v(Blue), switched ignition 12v(pink), and coil -(yellow). The yellow is straight forward. After research I determined most folks are splicing the pink to the RF EFI/Coil(orange), and the blue to the RF Fuel Pump(tan). I was hoping to avoid splicing so I studied the diagram and fuse box to see if I could find an alternative. There is an alternate switched source available, RF Electric Choke. It is 10A instead of 15A, but the pink wire is tiny so that should not be an issue. Thoughts? I could not find an alternative for the blue wire. I did not want the EFI controlling the fuel pump, because that would bypass the Inertia Switch. Since it is connecting on the output side, I assume this is an input signal so it knows the pump is on??? Here is a diagram I put together from my research.

217705

Finally installed relays and dressed the wires. I need to hook up the fan control. I think I just need to connect the black/yellow wire to the fan line. Tomorrow is plumbing day and then final checks before first start.

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Rick, I am not certain from your first photo of your water temp sensor location. It would appear to me that port looks like a vacuum source into the intake manifold runner. I have always used the port on the front of the engine near the thermostat housing. But, I could be mistaken, as is often the case.
Ralph

[rickster991]

You are right. I need to move . I was asking FFR today about teeing a line for the brake booster and they said not to do that and instead use that port for vacuum. I asked where do I get water temp? The one they told me to use is being taken by the Sniper. They said that there is a port on the radiator. There is not. There is another port on the front of the manifold that is not on a riser. Is that one ok?

[rponfick]

I think you have a Blueprint 347" like I do, and their 4-barrel intake manifold. Mine has two temp ports in the front of the engine: one in the manifold itself, and one in the thermostat housing itself. I think either would be acceptable.
Ralph

[rickster991]

Today was a productive day as I knock items off the list for first fire. To close off the above thread, I had a great discussion with Dan at FFR. He agreed that the second diagram is acceptable. His only issue is that the circuit would be running two relays. He said that is not typical, but the only issue would be diagnosing problems in the future would be more difficult, as you won’t just be able to swap a relay to know it’s bad. I am not worried about this, so I am moving forward with this solution, after the first start up.

The first task of the day was to get the fuel lines connected. I struggled with the instructions because the FFR instructions did not match the Sniper 2 ones. I spoke with FFR and they said that the instructions they have with their kit are for an older version and that I should go with the Sniper 2 manual. That is fuel directly to Sniper and then the regulator only gets the return line. He said to make sure to adjust the pressure with Sniper disabled. The Sniper manual mentions the same thing. Done! After a long search through the BP connectors I found the plug for the extra port is included.:)

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Next was to install the radiator. I chose to add the Breeze shroud to be safe as well as the upper radiator hose. I have read about issues with the plastic one failing. It went in easy and the radiator install was was simple except there is very little room to drill holes for the screws on the upper mount. Wish that flange was about a 1/2” wider, but I got it done. The drill catches the edge of the bracket and causes the radiator to jump. I clamped it right next to the hole to finish the job. The bottom bracket is fine. Used rivet nuts to secure it. Tomorrow just need to add the rest of the stainless hose.

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Next was the power steering. There are no instructions and FFR said it’s left as an exercise to the builder. You get a bunch of connectors in a bag and two very long ss hoses. After some research I was able to get it plumbed. The pump has a high pressure outlet. I tried several connectors until I tried the shiny one and it worked. It is ?? male-male 6AN. The low pressure outlet is just a 3/8 hose connector. On the rack the dull connector with a white o-ring fit the high pressure outlet(red) and I had to buy a 1/4 NPT to 3/8 hose connector for the low pressure side. Next was trying to connect it all. The hose was no issue, but both SS lines were too long with the wrong connectors. So I ended up making my own with two 90s. Done!

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[rickster991]

Next I proceeded to swap out the water temp for a vacuum line. I used 3/8 100 psi fuel line to connect the brake booster.

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Finally I relocated the water temp. Tomorrow I should be doing my first start. Very exciting!

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[rickshank]

What's the "home crimping" solution you're using for the fuel/vacuum line? Looks good, and looking forward to the startup video!

[edwardb]

Next was the power steering. There are no instructions and FFR said it’s left as an exercise to the builder. You get a bunch of connectors in a bag and two very long ss hoses. After some research I was able to get it plumbed. The pump has a high pressure outlet. I tried several connectors until I tried the shiny one and it worked. It is ?? male-male 6AN. The low pressure outlet is just a 3/8 hose connector. On the rack the dull connector with a white o-ring fit the high pressure outlet(red) and I had to buy a 1/4 NPT to 3/8 hose connector for the low pressure side.

The PS connections on a Fox body Mustang rack are 9/16″ and 5/8″ O-Ring style. Best results will be with both being that type. Not NPT. Looks like that's what you have in the high pressure side. For the other side, that's not the right type of connector but maybe it will work since it's low pressure. Keep an eye on it when the system is up to pressure. Typically our builds are -6AN on both sides and the correct O-Ring connectors should have been included in your kit and also are widely available, e.g. Breeze and others. On a side note, don't overtighten the O-Ring connectors. Just "firm." Easy to crush/deform the O-Ring.

[rickster991]

What's the "home crimping" solution you're using for the fuel/vacuum line? Looks good, and looking forward to the startup video!

Hopefully today! Here they are. https://a.co/d/4etATF6 had them from some Porsche repairs I had to do.

[rickster991]

Is this for the heater? For startup I can just connect these two together as a bypass? Thanks.

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I guess I can leave this for the start. I can’t run it like this !?!??

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[rickster991]

Today started really promising and I thought I would be able to make some noise. But what started out as promising ended in wasted effort and frustration.

I needed to finish three things; cooling system, Fuel Pump wiring, & Exhaust. First was to connect the radiator hoses. I measured and went off to the auto part store to look at hoses. I got some candidates and headed home. Problem for me is a trip to the store is 1 hour round trip + shopping time. So I avoid it if I can. The top radiator hoses fit fine. I’m adding a picture if it in case anyone wants to use it. Unfortunately the bottom hose fit but was backwards. Meaning the larger opening was on the radiator side. Live and learn. So I tried my hand at making one using the kit supplied components. I think it came out well. We’ll see if it works! I used the tips from a post by JeffK and added screws to avoid blowout and silicone to the adapters. Fingers crossed it holds up.

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I tried to mount the overflow tank. Bit of advice. If you want to mount it on the inside rail, do it before engine install. There is little room to drill and no room for my rivet nut tool. I chose to zip tie until I can buy some long 1/4 bolts to use instead of rivet nuts. I then tried to install a heater hose bypass. I needed some parts so I moved on to the next task.

I removed the rivets in the fuse panel, was going to replace those with rivet nuts anyway. Cut the orange switched power input wire to the fuel pump relay and replaced it with the sniper blue wire.

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I then started on the exhaust. I added anti-seize to the bolts and tightened them. There is no room for a socket on half the bolts. I ended up grinding this wrench to make it thin enough to reach all the bolts. They are as tight as I could make them with this small wrench. https://a.co/d/is4xmqz After tightening I added the Stage 8 components.

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I decided to skip the side pipes and start on the heater bypass. This where the frustration set in…

[rickster991]

I called BP for support on what to do with the heater line. Their answer was for me to call CVF Racing, supplier of the front drive, to get an answer/solution. According to BP, the engine is dyno’d and then the assembly is added after. Do they do not test it?!??? That can’t be right. CVF was pretty condescending since I could not provide a part # or name of what “I purchased”. Even though I kept telling them it was part of a BP package.. Eventually they agreed to an email of the engine and issue.

I decided that I needed to just make an adapter. So off to the store for components. Suffice is to say several hours later and several failed attempts I gave up and simply added a crimped bypass hose to get me past this hurdle. This won’t work as the ultimate solution so I’ll be dealing with support teams tomorrow. I never did get to installing the side pipes.

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Here is an explanation of my issue. Anyone else with AC & PS run into this and find a solution?

The heater outlet on the water pump is pointing directly at the alternator.

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I thought I could build an adapter to go around it. But after much trial and error, I discovered there is just not enough room to build it where you leave enough space to secure the fittings AND be small enough to make the bends needed.

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There would be plenty of room if I could move the alternator over. I think that may be the ultimate solution. Getting a longer serpentine belt. Do they sell pre-bent heater hoses like they do with radiators? So frustrating! You spend a ton of cash so you get something that is supposed to be plug-and-play. You expect these kind of issues when you buy seperate components yourself..

[rickster991]

I answered my own question. This may work. https://a.co/d/2pHqFmK

[rickshank]

Rick, sorry you're going through this. In the past when I've needed to solve hose problems, I'm taken the measurements/drawing and a tape measure to the local auto parts store. Usually trying to find the "most experienced" member of the team to let me look at the hose assortment.

Following closely as I'm picking my kit + 347 up next week. No clue if it's the same front drive, as it's Blueprint through Forte Parts.

[rickster991]

It’s a new day! It takes a lot for me to get upset. The main cause was my interaction with CVF Racing support. I was hoping for “you have our part xxx, you need yyy”. The more I think about it, I have no relationship with them and they have no incentive to help me. I should not be dealing with them. Going to speak with BP and see if they can speak with them and find a solution.

Thanks, @rickshank I ordered the part above. I’ll let you know if it fits or if I get answer from BP.

[gbranham]

I'd say a longer turnbuckle or heim joints, combined with a longer serpentine belt would give you the room you need for a 90 degree elbow hose.

Greg

[Mike.Bray]

I called BP for support on what to do with the heater line. Their answer was for me to call CVF Racing, supplier of the front drive, to get an answer/solution. According to BP, the engine is dyno’d and then the assembly is added after. Do they do not test it?!??? That can’t be right. CVF was pretty condescending since I could not provide a part # or name of what “I purchased”. Even though I kept telling them it was part of a BP package.. Eventually they agreed to an email of the engine and issue.

I've had a few interactions with Blueprint but have never purchased anything from them. Recently I inquired with them about building me a 427 SBC short block for my 68 Camaro. They said they can't do something like that, basically if it's not in their catalog they're not interested. BP are a huge company and pump many, many engines out the door every day so nothing custom or special. I'm not being negative towards BP, that's just their business model.

I inquired with Prestige Motorsports and found these guys to be great. Much smaller company and will pretty much build to order whatever I want. And at a very fair price, a little less than I can buy all of the parts for. Forte is the same way and a super nice guy.

FWIW

[Reddrig]

I've had a few interactions with Blueprint but have never purchased anything from them. Recently I inquired with them about building me a 427 SBC short block for my 68 Camaro. They said they can't do something like that, basically if it's not in their catalog they're not interested. BP are a huge company and pump many, many engines out the door every day so nothing custom or special. I'm not being negative towards BP, that's just their business model.

I inquired with Prestige Motorsports and found these guys to be great. Much smaller company and will pretty much build to order whatever I want. And at a very fair price, a little less than I can buy all of the parts for. Forte is the same way and a super nice guy.

FWIW

I’ve had a far different experience with Blueprint. Once I spoke to James who is the FFR contact person, he took my order and was nothing but easy, professional and a pleasure to deal with. He answers emails and the phone when I call. I would not hesitate to do business with Blueprint, this is my second engine from them. To each his own decision.

[Mike.Bray]

I’ve had a far different experience with Blueprint. Once I spoke to James who is the FFR contact person, he took my order and was nothing but easy, professional and a pleasure to deal with. He answers emails and the phone when I call. I would not hesitate to do business with Blueprint, this is my second engine from them. To each his own decision.

I'm not surprised as you were ordering a standard item from them. For something custom like I was looking for it's not their business model. Just like Summit. That was my point, nothing against the company or how they do business. And FWIW, they were fast to respond to my inquiry and friendly in how they said no.

[rickster991]

I’ve had a far different experience with Blueprint. Once I spoke to James who is the FFR contact person, he took my order and was nothing but easy, professional and a pleasure to deal with. He answers emails and the phone when I call. I would not hesitate to do business with Blueprint, this is my second engine from them. To each his own decision.

My experience prior to this had been amazing. I also worked with James for my order. I just got off the phone and spoke to James. He asked me to send him an email with all the details and he’ll have his tech guy figure it out with CVF. Fingers crossed. I am on the final checklist to fire this afternoon! Do you guys have your checklist handy? Just to make sure. Thanks!

[Reddrig]

My experience prior to this had been amazing. I also worked with James for my order. I just got off the phone and spoke to James. He asked me to send him an email with all the details and he’ll have his tech guy figure it out with CVF. Fingers crossed. I am on the final checklist to fire this afternoon! Do you guys have your checklist handy? Just to make sure. Thanks!

Rick, here is a pic of my 427, I have a ton of clearance. Not sure if this helps.

[rickster991]

You have AC/PS?

[rickster991]

Update on the above. BP and CVF believe I got the wrong belt/heim joint. They are still discussing…

[rickster991]

Today I finished final assembly before starting to fire the engine. I filled the transmission with ATF. I got this pump at the auto part store. It worked really well. BTW when I asked for a square socket to remove the filler plug, I got the strangest look from the clerk. He said you mean the one where you use a 3/8 ratchet? I did not know that! :)

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Here is the only spot I found to mount the overflow tank. It does not fit where the instructions state. I believe it would, but the Breeze shroud is taking that space.

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The last step was to install the side pipes. It went pretty smoothly. It looks like the hangers are more robust. They went together smoothly. I searched the manual for the instructions and could not find anything. Turns out they were not in the version I printed. They are in version M. The mounts are supposed to attach to a panel on the frame. Mine did not align, but it could be that my angle on the collector is bad. I’m going to wait to drill the holes until I can adjust with the body on. Is there a trick to tightening those bolts? You can’t get a socket on there and you need serious torque to tighten them.

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So ready to fire.

Step 1: Directly run fuel pump and adjust Fuel pressure to 55-65 PSI. There is a lock nut on the top off the regulator. Loosen it and you use an Allen wrench to raise/lower pressure. I set it to 60 PSI.

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Step 2. Remove the spark plugs and turn the engine over to prime the oil system. Remember to jumper the clutch safety switch…. Nothing happened. It was a horrible feeling. All I got was a grinding sound that sounds like a woodpecker. I need to call BP tomorrow. Man I hope it’s a simple fix. Any ideas? Here is a video of the sound.


https://youtube.com/shorts/7EU02cJYbJA?si=u-R-hZBo2dxH0KF5

[danmas]

Couple of things: on the socket wrench to remove the filler plug. Yeah. Been there. I asked myself the question in my head about six times until I figured I would try a socket wrench. You don’t know if you don’t know but now you know, you know? It’s part of the journey.

Overflow… yep. Same issue. I ended up going with an aftermarket tank and crafting a bracket. Mine is centered near the center line of my fan. Check my build thread if you want details.


Regarding the first start. Feel your pain.
I’m no expert but it sounds to me like the starter is turning over but not engaging the flywheel…. Did you install the starter and is it the right nose length to engage your motor? Does it come out if you energize it?

[rickster991]

Couple of things: on the socket wrench to remove the filler plug. Yeah. Been there. I asked myself the question in my head about six times until I figured I would try a socket wrench. You don’t know if you don’t know but now you know, you know? It’s part of the journey.

Overflow… yep. Same issue. I ended up going with an aftermarket tank and crafting a bracket. Mine is centered near the center line of my fan. Check my build thread if you want details.


Regarding the first start. Feel your pain.
I’m no expert but it sounds to me like the starter is turning over but not engaging the flywheel…. Did you install the starter and is it the right nose length to engage your motor? Does it come out if you energize it?

Thanks, I’ll check it out. It came assembled from BP.

[gbranham]

I thought BP engines came pre-primed. Maybe not.

Greg

[rickster991]

They are dyno’d, but step 1 in their instructions is to prime it.

[rickster991]

I’m no expert but it sounds to me like the starter is turning over but not engaging the flywheel…. Did you install the starter and is it the right nose length to engage your motor? Does it come out if you energize it?

I’m not either, but I agree. That’s what it sounds like. Hard to believe it’s seized. Need to watch some shimming videos…

[Reddrig]

Sounds like your battery was low on juice to me. But what do I know. ��

[gbranham]

Sounds like your battery was low on juice to me. But what do I know. ��

Agreed.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Low battery or bad solenoid. Starter is not turning.

Jeff

[Blitzboy54]

Measure your battery with a multi meter. I'll bet you have 10v or less. Or just charge it and move on if that's not an option.

As far as your side pipes you have the ball flange at the collector, I would think you could walk your pipes back toward the car with those? Looks like it needs to come up and then back toward the chassis.

[danmas]

That seems much more likely given that it’s a bp installed starter… simple fix if so….

[rickster991]

I was able to turn the motor pretty easily. Phew! Battery is showing 13v. I used my expedition battery with cables to double check. Same result. I’m waiting for a “master tech” to call. I was going to pull the starter and check the gears but was told to wait for a call. While I was waiting I installed the throttle cable and made engine noises…

[rickster991]

Measure your battery with a multi meter. I'll bet you have 10v or less. Or just charge it and move on if that's not an option.

As far as your side pipes you have the ball flange at the collector, I would think you could walk your pipes back toward the car with those? Looks like it needs to come up and then back toward the chassis.

Thanks, they are on loosely for 1st start. I’ll adjust once the body is on.

[rickster991]

For those who were betting on electrical issues you were correct. The tech watched the video and said it was the starter not engaging. I explained the setup and what I had done/tested. He did not like the daisy-chain style of grounding the battery to the block. I suggested running a jumper cable directly to the starter mounting bolt and he agreed it’s a good place to start. I did it, but decided to disconnect it and try one more time to make sure the issue was happening before applying a fix to test. (My engineering background showing) And… it worked?!?!? Relief!!! He said that the issue is a bad ground and would probably come back. So I bought a long battery cable and connected the battery negative directly to the starter bolt and then a strap from there to the frame. Hopefully this is behind me.

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I then installed the throttle cable. I clamped the accelerator pedal to the front wall to simulate full throttle and used that to set the throw. I used this bracket. https://a.co/d/8PRfbd1

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I did have to redo the power steering lines. I had them backwards. Since the red cap was on the high-pressure side of the pump, I thought it corresponded to the red cap on the rack. Nick at FFR pointed out I had them backwards! Once I did that all the fittings needed WERE provided with the kit. I ended up using the provided SS line because there was no room to go direct with the cable I made. I had to pass through the wheel well and secured the cable to make sure there was no rubbing with the tire.

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I topped off the radiator with 1 gallon of AF and one gallon of distilled water. How do I make sure the engine has coolant? Spin the motor for a bit until the level stops going down? Thanks for all the help!!

[danmas]

I’m super happy for you. I have like 7 grounds. Might add a few more. Regarding cooling I wouldn’t over think that. Slop some coolant in your system. Crank it out. You won’t run it for long on your first start and coolant is a tomorrow problem.

[rickshank]

Rick - great news! So your battery is grounded now both to frame and to the starter bolt?

How did you select the linkage bracket?

Great progress, looking forward to that 347 firing up!

-Rick

[cv2065]

Nice work. A few strategically placed grounds and you're good to go. You don't need to go crazy with them. Too many ground straps can be counterproductive if improperly placed.

[Jeff Kleiner]

...How do I make sure the engine has coolant? ...

Open the petcock at the top of the radiator and remove the temperature sender that's in the thermostat housing. Fill until coolant comes out of the radiator petcock then close it and continue filling until it comes out of the port that had the sender. Reinstall the sender and fill until coolant is at the top of the "T" filler. Start it up and top it off as it goes down while warming up when the thermostat opens. Cap it and let the recovery tank do it's job.

Jeff

[rickster991]

Thanks all!

[rickster991]

Rick - great news! So your battery is grounded now both to frame and to the starter bolt?

How did you select the linkage bracket?

Great progress, looking forward to that 347 firing up!

-Rick

I saw it in a video of a builder.

[rickster991]

Quick question for the experts… I need to monitor oil pressure while I’m turning the engine over. But the gauges are not on switched power. Can I temporarily run a power wire to the oil pressure gauge? Or even easier to all the gauges?

[rickster991]

Quick question for the experts… I need to monitor oil pressure while I’m turning the engine over. But the gauges are not on switched power. Can I temporarily run a power wire to the oil pressure gauge? Or even easier to all the gauges?

The power is only for lights, so no help. I spoke with FFR and they said it should read right away and to shut it off if there’s no pressure.

[Jeff Kleiner]

The power is only for lights, so no help. I spoke with FFR and they said it should read right away and to shut it off if there’s no pressure.

You won’t see anything while cranking because the gauges are not powered. As soon as it starts and you turn the ignition from “crank” to “run” it will show pressure. If you don’t like that answer you can go to the hardware store and get a cheap mechanical gauge to put on it.

Jeff

[Mike.Bray]

As Jeff said, I used a mechanical gauge when priming my engine.

[gbranham]

You won’t see anything while cranking because the gauges are not powered. As soon as it starts and you turn the ignition from “crank” to “run” it will show pressure. If you don’t like that answer you can go to the hardware store and get a cheap mechanical gauge to put on it.

Jeff

Or pull the valve covers and prime until oil seeps out of all the rockers.

[gbranham]

And remember to turn the oil pump shaft COUNTER CLOCKWISE.

[rickster991]

I followed Jeff’s advice and got a mechanical gauge at Harbor freight. I have plenty of open ports on the sandwich adapter I bought. It worked well. PITTSBURGH Engine Oil Pressure Test Kit - Item 62621 / 98949 (https://hftools.com/app62621)

BP told me that 10-60 psi is good. I got 50. I topped of the coolant. Crossed my fingers and put it to ACC. The fuel pump came on for a few seconds and I heard the EFI do its thing. I cranked it AND… it ran for about 2 seconds. It sounded like it was starving for a fuel. I tried it again with no luck. I noticed I had no fuel pressure. The fuel pump was no longer coming on. So I started diagnosing. First I returned it to switched power like I did when I set the fuel regulator. No luck. I checked the fuse/relay. Looks good. So I checked the voltage at the pump connector. It read 13v.

At this point I gave up for the day. It’s weird that the pump failed right on startup? Strange coincidence. I guess the next step is to hardwire the pump directly to the battery to see if it comes on. I do have another inline pump that I can try. Will the pickup work or will it not work if the in-tank pump does not run?

[rickster991]

Does anyone know the part # of the FFR in tank pump? Maybe I can just buy a replacement and see what happens.

[rickster991]

I couldn’t sleep… I have an external fuel pump so I decided to hook it up hoping the pickup would work. Hooked it up to switched 12v, turn the key. I heard the pump whirring and I had 60 PSI of fuel pressure. Turn the key and brought the thunder!!!! Man it sounds like a beast! I only ran it for a minute as the neighbors probably didn’t appreciate it. I am so happy. Huge milestone! Thanks for all the help to get here. Couldn’t have done it without you guys!!!


https://youtube.com/shorts/CyfezpXMGls?si=sxFqGGe58Lql26JO

[gbranham]

Congrats, buddy! That's a great feeling, huh?

[rickster991]

Congrats, buddy! That's a great feeling, huh?

Absolutely! And I got my first snake bite! :)

[danmas]

Awesome! I’m happy for you,,,,

[2nd2none]

Congratulations!! Gotta be a great feeling. Hopefully I'll be there about this time next year

[rickster991]

An issue and a question. I hard-wired the Sniper and it worked perfectly. Should I just stick to the external pump and give up on the in tank? If I do is this a good place to mount it? The instructions say it should be below the tank. This is the closest rail that is below the tank.

217910

With the good comes the… I ran it a bit more this morning and there is an oil leak. I tried to find where it’s coming from with no luck. Any ideas? I guess I’ll be callling BP in Monday.

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[Jeff Kleiner]

Question: Is the inertia switch still in your fuel pump circuit? If so try resetting it.

Jeff

[rickster991]

First thing I checked.. there is voltage at the connector. Next thing I’m going to do is wire the new pump to the harness to see if it’s another ground issue.

[cv2065]

An issue and a question. I hard-wired the Sniper and it worked perfectly. Should I just stick to the external pump and give up on the in tank? If I do is this a good place to mount it? The instructions say it should be below the tank. This is the closest rail that is below the tank.

217910

With the good comes the… I ran it a bit more this morning and there is an oil leak. I tried to find where it’s coming from with no luck. Any ideas? I guess I’ll be callling BP in Monday.

217911 217912

You'd have to give some better pics to diagnose an oil leak. Even then, it's difficult from pics. BP will want them as well.

[rickster991]

You'd have to give some better pics to diagnose an oil leak. Even then, it's difficult from pics. BP will want them as well.

I found it. The valve cover is leaking. Dripping on alternator harness and in to starter.

[Reddrig]

An issue and a question. I hard-wired the Sniper and it worked perfectly. Should I just stick to the external pump and give up on the in tank? If I do is this a good place to mount it? The instructions say it should be below the tank. This is the closest rail that is below the tank.

217910

With the good comes the… I ran it a bit more this morning and there is an oil leak. I tried to find where it’s coming from with no luck. Any ideas? I guess I’ll be callling BP in Monday.

217911 217912

I would go through your engine and check all of your fittings and every bolt again for correct torque specs, especially since the motor has had a few heat cycles from blueprint to your time. I wouldn’t necessarily give up on your in tank pump because you had an issue, it could be as a very easy issue to correct in the short term which might provide better advantages in the long term (Dealers choice). I plan on going through all my fasteners, connections and bolts before I do my first start up. I like Blueprints products, but I would still go over the motor from head to toe.

Your fuel system shouldn't be that hard to go through everything again to verify it is all good if you choose to stay with an intake pump.

[Mike.Bray]

Should I just stick to the external pump and give up on the in tank?

In tank is by far the better option. They run quieter and cooler.

[rponfick]

An inline Holley red electric fuel pump came with my BP engine, but I could not find an acceptable spot to mount it (close to tank and below tank), so went with the internal tank type from Breeze. The MK5 frame is not as easy to work with as the MK4.
My engine is not in yet, so not sure if everything is cool.
Good luck.
Ralph

[rickster991]

I ran the engine. I was watching the temp gauge and waiting for 180. It was at 125 forever and I happened to glance at the Holley and it said 210! I quickly turned it off. The overflow tank was steaming and bubbling. Not sure what was going on with my temp gauge. It turns out the fan output was not setup in the sniper! I thought BP would have done that. But I guess when I think about it, they have no idea what I’m doing with the fan. Lesson learned. I set it to come on at 185 and off at 182. I was then able to run it for extended period of time and it stayed between 180-188. I followed Jeff’s instructions above and I think it worked. We shall see when I run it in anger.

Next is to continue to diagnose the pump issue and the oil leak. I made sure all the bolts are tight on the valve cover. It leaking less, but still leaking. Making progress!

[rickster991]

This is pretty definitive. This worked. Plugged it back in to the tank. Nothing. I’ll talk to FFR on Monday about a replacement. Fingers crossed.

217913

[rickster991]

I wired the battery switch according to the @cv2065 diagram I attached below. The switch from FFR came with a jumper to connect A to B so you need just one battery cable. I deviated a bit. The starter is my distribution block, so I can use the RF harness wires. I guess technically it’s a safety switch as it cuts the battery and the alternator. But its location won’t be accessible in an emergency. Unless the emergency occurs with the hood open. @cv2065 I simply used the wire from the RF harness directly to the alternator without a fuse. I figure that it’s as good as it was before. I will add a fuse like you did for final install.

I’m thinking this one. https://a.co/d/idE5zK3

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[rickster991]

I was bored so I figured I’d go for a drive!


https://youtu.be/2Vju1jSMMOk

[rickster991]

Update: I spoke with FFR this morning. They are sending a new fuel pump. I havre to say I am super impressed with their customer service!

[rickster991]

Rick - great news! So your battery is grounded now both to frame and to the starter bolt?


-Rick

Sorry I missed this. Yes.

217975

[rickster991]

Today I finished the AC install. Crimping the lines was surprisingly simple. I’ll see how effective I was when I charge the system. I followed the instructions for routing the lines with a combination of the Type 65 and Vintage Air instructions. With this method, all of the necessary fittings are provided with the kit. After creating the line from the evaporator to the compressor it dawned on me that the fittings with the connectors for the charging equipment would not be accessible once the body was on. I think they are designed for the T65 that has the whole front end as a hood.

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Instead I opted to place those fittings on the compressor. I bought them at a local shop. I also had to buy a 45 degree 10 to replace the 90 degree evaporator fitting. I replaced the 90 degree on the condenser with a 45 degree that came with the kit. These are similar to the ones I found at the local shop.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vta-35512-vug
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vta-35513-vug
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vta-358230

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The condenser went on pretty easily. The only variation from the instructions was the need to attach the brackets with a through bolt to the frame instead of the radiator.

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For those that wired the compressor, there is just one wire. I assume that’s power and I don’t use the ground in the harness?

[rickster991]

I will have to move the overflow tank, as it’s contacting the ac lines. Man there is not a lot of room. Do I need to worry how close to the headers it is?

218018

[Mike.Bray]

Man there is not a lot of room.

I once installed AC in a 28 Model A sedan. These cars have loads of room compared to that!

[rickster991]

Today was more preparation to mount the body for an extended period of time. First step was to install the wiper motor. This was relatively simple. I followed the Type 65 instructions to mount it. I tried to make sure it would not interfere with the windshield install.

https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/WIPERS-coupe-rev-R.pdf

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The roadster instructions are for Mark IV so it calls for it to be on the firewall. The firewall is not tall enough. I will use them to mount the wipers. The wiring is the same in both.

https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/WIPERS-coupe-rev-R.pdf

I connected the compressor wire and then I proceeded to finish the battery switch. I put the rubber cover on it and installed a 150 amp breaker on the alternator line. I reused the alternator wire from the RF harness. It appears to be 6 gauge. I soldered the connector ends to make sure I had a secure connection.

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And finally I bought my next build!

218048

https://www.lego.com/en-us/product/shelby-cobra-427-sc-10357

[rickster991]

Today I got the body on without the bulb seal. I added extra heat barrier in any area near the headers.

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I then attached the body using grommets in the front. I have grommets for the rear, but did not install them yet.

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I then installed the header brackets. I think they are on right they look good! It’s tricky to get the mounts to line up with the plate they bolt in to. The driver side went on fine. The passenger side was trickier. But I was able to get them done.

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The hangers are at least an inch below the frame. These are going to hit on speed bumps.

[rickster991]

Lessons learned. The condenser should probably be mounted on the bottom instead of the top. It hits the body. I’ll probably try to just lower mine a bit so I don’t need to remake the AC lines.

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The call in the AC port lines was correct. There would be no way to get to them with the body on. I think there will be plenty of clearance for the reservoir. They are 5 inches below the hood.

218147

[rponfick]

Rick, how does your dash fit up against the upper body. Is there room to screw it in, or will you have to add extender brackets on the frame mounting hoop?
And there looks like plenty of room to have the whole upper footbox panel removable. No need to cut an access hole, just remove the whole panel?
Ralph

[rickster991]

Rick, how does your dash fit up against the upper body. Is there room to screw it in, or will you have to add extender brackets on the frame mounting hoop?
And there looks like plenty of room to have the whole upper footbox panel removable. No need to cut an access hole, just remove the whole panel?
Ralph

I’ll take a look tomorrow.

[rickster991]

So today I attached the hood, doors, trunk, and windshield. First was the hood. The hinges went together easily after filing the holes. I had some miniature files that did the job. The instructions call for installing the bolts with the hood closed. I could not get to the bolts so I was able to do it by propping the hood and doing it from the top. Once the hood is attached the adjustment bolts can be accessed from the wheel wells.

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The first thing I checked was the clearance to the reservoirs once the strut is attached. I’m happy to report that there was no issue with my placement. In fact I was able to raise them to the maximum height with no issue.

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I made a quick video showing the reservoirs and strut placement.


https://youtube.com/shorts/0qqXirY-hd0?si=DgAIc6QAD_YWASJ-

The doors and trunk went on without issue. I did just enough to hand it over to my body/paint guy. I then tried to install the windshield. The driver side is fine, but the AC evaporator is interfering with the bolt placement on the passenger side. I am going to have to move the box. I need to remove the body to add the bulb seal. So I’ll move it then. I took some pictures for the insurance quote. Here she is…

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[rickster991]

Question for the experts. Turns out the AC is not interfering with the bolt it interfering with getting a wrench to hold the nut. I tried to find a clip nut but they do not make them that large. They do sell nuts you can weld, but my rivet nut kit has 1/2”-13 rivet nuts. Seems like the perfect solution. Is it too good to be true?

218219

[rickster991]

Today was the last day I’ll be working on the car for a month. I measured the room available above the driver foot box. There is about 5”.

218231

I was hoping to charge the AC, but there is a leak on the low pressure side. Hopefully I didn’t damage my condenser. I found these plugs that should help me isolate where the issue is.

https://www.apairinc.com/shopping/productdetails.aspx?i=416748&c=4330
https://www.apairinc.com/shopping/productdetails.aspx?i=416751
https://www.apairinc.com/shopping/productDetails.aspx?i=416754&c=4330

I made a good call on the ports. I was able to get the fittings on without issue

218235

And finally I re-oriented my PS lines as I had a leak. I originally put the 90 on the rack and the straight connection on the pump. The 90 was stressing the connector and causing it to loosen. By swapping I was able to tighten without issue. I ran the car for several minutes, turned the wheel several times to bleed the system. No leaks. Fingers crossed.

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[rickster991]

This 3 week push totaled 122 hours. So combined with the 220 hours from the pre-engine work, I am up to 342 hours.

[rickster991]

I did have to relocate my drier as it was rubbing with the compressor lines.

218255

[rickster991]

Question for the experts. The headlight button is on-on button. The source is the blue sw wire and the toggles are the hi beam and low beam power wires. The red and black wires power the LED light on the button. I tested this by running 12v to the button and it lit up. This my understanding.

Would it be possible to run the low beam directly off the headlight switch(blue wire) and then use an on-off button to energize the high beam? Do the headlights support that, or will they let the magic smoke out? I saw that some folks have wired it with a foot toggle for the high beams so I assume this may work. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

[edwardb]

Question for the experts. The headlight button is on-on button. The source is the blue sw wire and the toggles are the hi beam and low beam power wires. The red and black wires power the LED light on the button. I tested this by running 12v to the button and it lit up. This my understanding.

Would it be possible to run the low beam directly off the headlight switch(blue wire) and then use an on-off button to energize the high beam? Do the headlights support that, or will they let the magic smoke out? I saw that some folks have wired it with a foot toggle for the high beams so I assume this may work. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Take a look at the RF schematic and get a clearer picture of how the headlights work. The headlight switch provides +12V battery power to the blue wire when the switch is pulled. At that point, low or high beam not determined. The dimmer switch (whatever kind you use) applies that +12V to either the low beams (red) or the high beams (brown). The indicator light you mentioned is on the high beams so that you know it's in that position.

The foot toggle you mention does the same switching, e.g. the blue wire to either the red or brown wires. I used one on my truck build.

[rickster991]

Right that’s what figured is happening. The “hi beam” switch I bought, that matches my horn button, is on/off. I was hoping to use it by connecting the blue wire straight to low beam. Meaning it will always be on when the light switch is on. And then “T” the blue wire to the on/off button to power the high beams when it is pressed. So when the “hi beam” button is pressed the head lights would be getting a high beam and low beam power at the same time. Will this fry the headlights?

I I have another on/on switch I got but it is not as nice as the ones from Billet Automotive Buttons I have.

[Nigel Allen]

Right that’s what figured is happening. The “hi beam” switch I bought, that matches my horn button, is on/off. I was hoping to use it by connecting the blue wire straight to low beam. Meaning it will always be on when the light switch is on. And then “T” the blue wire to the on/off button to power the high beams when it is pressed. So when the “hi beam” button is pressed the head lights would be getting a high beam and low beam power at the same time. Will this fry the headlights?

I I have another on/on switch I got but it is not as nice as the ones from Billet Automotive Buttons I have.

Use the on off switch to drive a five-pin changeover relay. The changeover relay will then give you high or low beam.

Cheers, Nigel

[rickster991]

Use the on off switch to drive a five-pin changeover relay. The changeover relay will then give you high or low beam.

Cheers, Nigel

The relay would be energized by a separate 12v source?

[edwardb]

Right that’s what figured is happening. The “hi beam” switch I bought, that matches my horn button, is on/off. I was hoping to use it by connecting the blue wire straight to low beam. Meaning it will always be on when the light switch is on. And then “T” the blue wire to the on/off button to power the high beams when it is pressed. So when the “hi beam” button is pressed the head lights would be getting a high beam and low beam power at the same time. Will this fry the headlights?


I don't think that's a good idea. With LED headlights, the current draw might be within limits with both on. For any others likely not. But typically headlights aren't designed to have both lit at the same time. Could overheat or whatever. Also blinding to other drivers. I've used the ididit 3100006040 40 amp High Beam/Low Beam Switching Relay in a couple builds and will again on my Mk5 build. Touching a wire to ground switches the headlight feed. Works great.

[Nigel Allen]

The relay would be energized by a separate 12v source?

You would use the headlight power to operate the relay. That way, when the headlight switch is turned off, the relay is de-energized and can't flatten the battery on the car.

Let me know if you need a drawing

[rickster991]

I think I get it. Here’s what I’m thinking. I’ll use the switch to control the ground. Does it look correct? Thanks!

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[rickster991]

While on break I covered the dash with CF vinyl wrap. I’ve used this on the roof of my race car and it’s still holding fast after several years of abuse. I plan to cover the console with it as well.

https://a.co/d/hdF9UOn

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[Nigel Allen]

I think I get it. Here’s what I’m thinking. I’ll use the switch to control the ground. Does it look correct? Thanks!

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Perfect. You nailed it.

Cheers,

Nige

[Mike.Bray]

While on break I covered the dash with CF vinyl wrap. I’ve used this on the roof of my race car and it’s still holding fast after several years of abuse. I plan to cover the console with it as well.

https://a.co/d/hdF9UOn

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I did that and love it. Used the exact same material from Amazon lol

[rickster991]

I just got an agreed value policy from Hagerty. I had to state I am the only driver because my wife does not have experience. I got $80k. Is this enough? Anyone else have experience with Hagerty. State Farm would not do agreed coverage since the frame is new. They would do normal depreciation coverage. Next is off to OATA to get a tag and title. Fingers crossed.

[Mike.Bray]

I had Hagerty on my Viper with no issues but when I talked to them about the Cobra they threw up too many obstacles like performance driving experience and me being the only driver. Went to Robbin at Midwest (a sponsor on this site) and everything was easy peasy. Now I've got my Cobra, my 68 Camaro, and my wife's Sunbeam all insured through him. Funny thing is, every time I add a car my rate gets cheaper.

[rickster991]

I’ll check them out next year. They do agreed value?

[rickshank]

Strange on Hagerty and performance driving. I've got my track car (SCCA Club Spec Mustang / S197) on a Hagerty agreed value policy, as it's a low mile instance I bought from Carsandbids. I also use Hagerty (who subs to RLI) for SCCA Time Trials / Track Night in America performance driving policies. These are separate per-day policies with a 10/15% deductible and agreed value.

[rickster991]

It’s official! I am tagged and titled in FL. I made the 3 hour drive to OATA on Lee Road after the positive experience by others on the forum. The only issue was they first put the year as 2025. When i mentioned I thought it had to be 1965 they said that no it was the year of the manufacture. I did not complain, I just wanted it done. But, the supervisor reviewed it and told them it was backwards and had to be 1965 as the year. They fixed it and 15 mins later I left with a title, tag and application for a personalized plate. All in all it took 1 hour and no headaches. No more illegal go-karting!

[rickster991]

I need a favor. I won’t be near the car until October but wanted to order some speaker boxes. Can someone tell me the height in the trunk behind the rear cockpit wall? And the length between the seat belt openings?

Thanks!

[Jeff Kleiner]

I have my body on and can check when I get back home after the weekend but meanwhile...exactly where do you want the height measured from? Obviously it's higher in the center. Would you like to have it at the sides? At the inside roll bar leg?

Jeff

[rickster991]

Thanks! I was hoping to install them between the seats on the trunk shelf. The boxes I’m looking at are 8.75” wide, 7.75” tall and 4.25” deep. If there is room a may install a SW box that is 17”x11”x10”. I think subs are not directional so I can place it anywhere?

[gbranham]

I wonder how many people actually use their stereos once they get their car on the road. The car is loud enough as it is, and I can't imagine any stereo built in an FFR has any sound quality to it. Heck, your ear is 18 inches from the sidepipe exit and rear tire! :)

Greg

[Nigel Allen]

Noise cancelling ear buds are the go. Especially when using sat nav.

[rickster991]

Finished my interim build while waiting to head back. It came out nice, but I may need to add a little horsepower.. 😃

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[UKSNAKE]

Really relieved to see this. I have been worrying about the gap, but if i torque much more something will break.

[UKSNAKE]

ok here goes...

I watched several videos and read as mush as i could and proceeded to install my freshly delivered blueprint 347. Seeing my large investment dangling in the air waiting to come crashing down and taking out other parts with it was nerve-racking. To say i was nervous is an understatement. The first step was to get the engine on the hoist. Here is a picture of my hoist, as it will become the antagonist in this epic. It is sold under different names, but here is a link target (https://www.target.com/p/2-ton-heavy-duty-folding-engine-hoist-shop-crane-with-6-casters-engine-lift-lever-4000lb-capacity-for-automotive-workshop-use-red/-/a-1005108525?tcid=ogs&afid=google&cpng=home%2bimprovement+-+target+plus&adgroup=85-9&srsltid=afmbooov3omesfixyibyeuxbmr5jxwt8xjjmvuthtr-mf07kslcnwlbpea0)

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my first attempt was at the 1 ton setting. The specs for the 347 + tkx listed at ~750 lbs so that's why i chose it. A few of the videos i watched mentioned using the 500 lb setting for ease of installation, but they were able to manage at 1 ton. Most of the videos i watched were for mark ivs. Because of the layout of my garage my plan was to roll the car to the engine and then use my lift to raise the back of the car if needed.

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after trying different tactics it was clear the arm was not going to be long enough. I thought that was going to be the case, but i wanted to try the safest route first. So i dropped the engine on jack stands and reconfigured the hoist. Here is where the bag or organic top soil comes into the picture @budfive. I was afraid it would tip over and needed some ballast. It weighed 50 lbs and would mould itself to the hoist. Perfect! I could have used just regular soil, but nothing but the best for this build! :)

here is a picture of the resting place in case you need to readjust and are looking for a configuration that worked.

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as you know from my previous posts this was a fail as well. The engine would not clear the brake booster until i lifted the back of the car to create a steep angle. I don't think anyone without a lift could do this. I was hoping that if i could get the engine in that i could get it on the mounts. I was able to get it past the brake booster but i could not get anywhere near the mounts. At this point i posted the posts above and asked the experts for help. Here are some pictures of the arm at full extension, 45" measured from chain to jack pivot, and the cross members hitting the hoist. The bag of soil worked flawlessly!

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the third try worked thanks to @edwardb!!! It seems so obvious once you see it. But i would have never thought to try from the side. I put jack stands on the frame directly between the wheels so as to not block the hoist and then removed the wheel to get maximum clearance. At first i thought it was not going to work or i would need to remove the brake caliper. But once i moved the hoist towards the firewall, the leg cleared the front cross member. So i repositioned the jack stands to it and then there was plenty of clearance as i moved the hoist closer to the firewall. It was really crazy how little you need to turn the release valve for the engine to plummet! I suggest practicing this where no damage can happen. It did take me several tries to get the engine to drop into the bolt slot and the pin slots. I kept getting one or the other to fall in place. What finally worked for me was getting one in place and then tightening down the bolt so it was loose enough to move, but tight enough to not allow the pin to leave its channel.

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so finally it's in and looks great. I was going to paint over the lizardskin in body color, but it dried a flat black that i really like. So i am going to leave it.

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i did make a video. I keep family and friends up to date with videos, so that is the intended audience. I posted it to my youtube channel if you are interested.


https://youtu.be/sr4jsupl7cm

i love that video !!!

[rickster991]

I’m back at it for the month of October. I’ve been working the last week so I’m going to break it up so it’s not one long post.

First some updates. I got the new fuel pump from FFR. I took the old one out and decided to check the electrical connections. Nothing was clearly wrong so I took it apart to install the new pump. First thing was to remove the connector and make sure it was not bad. It turns out the ground was open. When I took the heat-shrink-butt connector off, the wire disintegrated in my hand???? Maybe it’s not gas safe? So I decided to solder the connections instead. Fixed.

I wanted to make sure the diff was full even though it’s supposed to come pre-filled. It was a quart low! After discussion with FFR I drained the quart back out and mixed it with half the tube of LSD additive and put it back together in. Make sure to check yours!

[rickster991]

Next I worked on the drive assembly. I bought the neutral safety and reverse light pig tails from Summit and connected those. I chose not to use the clutch switch.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/IST-ELA-00200
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rfw-pg052

Next I worked on adjusting the pinion angle. After speaking with FFR they said it should be 0-1 degrees. Without adjusting it was at 4.5 degrees. The most difficult thing was finding a reference to zero out the level. I’m chose the frame crossmember where the diff is mounted. That was within .5 degree of the bottom of the frame.

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I was able to get it close by adding 3 washers. They add up to 1/3”. Because of the added height the bolts provided did not fit. I had to order longer ones. They are M12x1.75 threads. I bought this thread finder. I really like that you can use each piece individually. My previous one, they were all tied together on a chain.

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https://a.co/d/g8X3pCz

UPDATE: Turns out the set is inaccurate for some sizes! I bought the bolts and they did not fit. Turns out their 7/16”-14

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Lastly I installed the shaft safety loop. The one I purchased required extensive modification. The tricky part is that the transmission is not centered so it throws off the measurements. But I got it done.



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[edwardb]

I'm not sure how you're measuring pinion angle. It's the angle of the engine compared to the differential. Simplest way is to measure across the harmonic balancer. Then measure the differential. Easiest is with the driveshaft off then you can measure across the flange. The pinion angle is the difference between the two. Driveshaft isn't measured. Doesn't matter if the chassis is level or not. The difference between the two measurements will be the same. Lots has been posted about this elsewhere if you want to dig deeper.

[rickster991]

Thanks for that! My logic was the diff is stationary, IRS. So the only thing that can change is the transmission angle. So I used the diff angle as the reference to zero out my angle level. I then needed to find the angle of the transmission relative to that. Could not find a spot to measure that, so I figured the shaft itself going close to zero is what I needed so I measured that. Using the harmonic balancer makes sense. I’ll check that and see how far off I was.

[rickster991]

I finally got around to fixing my leaking valve cover. I decided to add some jewelry to the bay with some valve covers from Ansen and the Ford Racing air cleaner.

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So it turns out it was leaking because one of the bolts was cross threaded! 5 of the bolts came off easily, but the one in the top corner would not budge. I was afraid I was going to snap it. It did finally come out. You can see from the pictures comparing the two covers, that the cork never compressed and it was saturated with oil. I carefully re-tapped the threads along with a vacuum cleaner to make sure none of the filings went in the engine. Once that was done I torqued it to spec. I did call BP to let them know I was not happy… I hope that’s the last of it.

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Lastly I connected my heater hose. BP gave me the part number of the hose I needed to get. I got it from Rockauto. Part #ACDelco 1411OS. BP did not stock it, but they gave me an oil change kit as compensation.


https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1988,mustang,5.0l+302cid+v8,1133929,heat+&+air+conditioning,heater+hose,6892

It did not fit exactly but it cleared the tight space and I cut it to fit the hose coming from the heater valve.

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[rickster991]

Next on the list was installing the dash. I used some 90 degree brackets to lower the bolt attachment points so I can remove the dash if needed with the body on. I used rivet nuts on the brackets for ease of removal. I used stainless steel bolts which ties in with the black/silver look of the dash.

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I then installed a grab bar on the passenger side. I used a stainless steel bracket riveted to the frame, threaded rod, T nuts, and coupling nuts to secure it. I’m really happy with how secure it is. In the video below when I yanked on it the entire car shook which startled me. Here are the parts I used in case you want to duplicate it.

COC-LF Boat Grab Bar 304... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CZKYX9PP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)
Qlvily 4 Packs 304 Stainless... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D9K3XDC6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)
Hordion 12Pcs 5/16"-18 Carbon... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CFPT5NRX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share )
UPVONT Hex Coupling Nuts, Rod... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D2TZM8D3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share l)

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https://youtube.com/shorts/oWpybF3GWQA?si=1ztSBpdDS9XuCXvG

[rickster991]

Next was installing seat belts. I chose to go with seat belts because I feel they are safer and easier to use. When on the track you are not allowed to use a harness without a HANS device. Since I am not going to be wearing a helmet I can’t use a HANS device. I found some horizontal devices that are used in British cars that fit the bill.

https://www.angloclassiccarparts.com/horizontal-mount-3-point-inertia-black-seat-belt-wire-stalk-buckle-e-marked

I was able to find suitable frame mounting locations for it and it works well. I could not use the FFR tabs because I had to cut those to fit my wider Kirkey seat. The side clip is too long, so I have a shorter one on order. BTW if I had to do it all again I’d go with the 17” seat FFR suggests.

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[Jeff Kleiner]

Please tell me that ultimately you will run those lap belts through the openings in the seats.

Jeff

[rickster991]

I installed the Cobra Heat seat warmers. After speaking with them, he thought a 10 amp circuit would be fine for both warmers. The instructions mention that they need 10 amps each. We’ll see how it goes. I wired them up. The relays will go under the seats. I placed the grounds on the frame as close as possible and ran the positives through the transmission tunnel up to the upper cover. I created a harness along with some USB ports. I wired the heaters to the radio circuit and T’d the wiper circuit for the USB plugs. I then wrapped the cover and mounted the switches and ports.

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[rickster991]

Please tell me that ultimately you will run those lap belts through the openings in the seats.

Jeff

Yes! ��

[rickster991]

I'm not sure how you're measuring pinion angle. It's the angle of the engine compared to the differential. Simplest way is to measure across the harmonic balancer. Then measure the differential. Easiest is with the driveshaft off then you can measure across the flange. The pinion angle is the difference between the two. Driveshaft isn't measured. Doesn't matter if the chassis is level or not. The difference between the two measurements will be the same. Lots has been posted about this elsewhere if you want to dig deeper.

Edwardb for the win again. I was aligning the driveshaft instead of the engine / transmission. So I did as suggested and used the diff yoke as the reference. I then measured the angle at the transmission yoke. I raised the transmission until it was close to 0. I was able to get it to .15 degrees. I then measured at the harmonic balancer and it was the same. But the driveshaft angle is now 15.9 degrees. I called FFR and the said that with IRS the diff is parallel to the frame so no need to measure anywhere else. I tested and my frame was indeed 0 degrees relative to the diff yoke. They said not to worry about the driveshaft angle, that it was fine. So now I’m off to buy an even longer bolt as I had to raise the transmission 1.5”. Crisis averted thanks again!

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Update: I had to lower the transmission as the driveshaft was hitting the e-brake bracket. The angles were still within spec.

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[rickster991]

I tried to install the Wilwood Remote Bias Adjuster. I do not think it will work without serious modification. The mounting bracket for the pedal box will block the bar from swiveling. Has anyone installed one before?
Do you agree?

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[rickster991]

I am struggling with diagnosing my AC system. I bought a vacuum pump and gauges. I placed the gauges on the Hi/Lo ports and ran the pump. I shut off the pump. The pressure leaked. I bought different fittings to be able to isolate the issue. Before I started I decided to test the gauges. I ran the pump with the gauges disconnected and it still leaked. So I bought another set of gauges and returned the others. The new gauges had the same result. Is this a valid way to test the gauges? Could the pump be bad? Thanks for any help/advice.

[Mike.Bray]

I tried to install the Wilwood Remote Bias Adjuster. I do not think it will work without serious modification. The mounting bracket for the pedal box will block the bar from swiveling. Has anyone installed one before?
Do you agree?

220196


I used one of these and it worked well https://www.summitracing.com/parts/til-72-560

[danmas]

Same. Right angle adapter for the win.

[rickster991]

Thanks! Now I have to fill that hole I made!

[rickster991]

Today I continued to knock off TODO items. First I installed the trunk struts. I’m not sure if I’m supposed to have two? But I received two with the kit. I used one on the hood and the other in the trunk.

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I then proceeded to attach the roll bar. It was quite the challenge. First step was to dry fit it. Early on I was able to get it on the mounts, but I could no longer do it. So I used a jack to spread the hoop. I took my time and did it over several passes. Eventually it fit.

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Next I installed the bolt-less roll bar kit from 520 SpeedWorks.

https://520speedworks.com/shop/ols/products/bolt-less-roll-bar-kit-15-inch

It went pretty smoothly, but it took some grinding to get the parts to fit. My recommendation is to dry fit it and make sure it’s aligned before trying to install it in the car. The pieces need to be perfectly centered on each tube for it to work when it’s in the car. Hopefully it all lines up again once the body is on!

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[Jeff Kleiner]

…First I installed the trunk struts. I’m not sure if I’m supposed to have two? But I received two with the kit. I used one on the hood and the other in the trunk.



You should have two 20” struts for the hood and two 16” for the trunk .

Jeff

[rickster991]

Today I tried to change the boots on the ball joints. One already failed. I bought a ball joint removal tool. I was able to remove the uppers, but the lowers were not budging. Is there a different tool I need for these?

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[rickster991]

Update: I used a bigger hammer and it popped free. I had to jack up the hub to give the fork clearance to work. All boots replaced with Energy Suspension : https://a.co/d/eztbItO

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[Aleinsteingenius]

I am behind where you are on my MK V build but I thought I would post here as a possible help to other builders with Sasquatch feet. I moved the throttle pedal up about 2" and moved it as far to the right as possible. Otherwise when I went for the brake in a hurry I might also be on the gas. Powerbraking can be fun but not in that instance. I had to bend the upper are of the pedal assembly so it would not hit the steering column.

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[rickster991]

Nice. I assume you tried with that inside panel on? It comes in a little bit. I had to bend mine out a little bit to give myself a little room.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I am behind where you are on my MK V build but I thought I would post here as a possible help to other builders with Sasquatch feet. I moved the throttle pedal up about 2" and moved it as far to the right as possible. Otherwise when I went for the brake in a hurry I might also be on the gas. Powerbraking can be fun but not in that instance. I had to bend the upper are of the pedal assembly so it would not hit the steering column.

220465

Can't tell from your photo but when I build and set up pedals I always place the throttle pedal so that when it and the brake are relaxed it's about 2" forward of the brake pedal. I've had more that a few come in to me in which the builder has set them up so that the brake and throttle are in the same plane and that situation is absolutely dangerous!

Jeff

[Aleinsteingenius]

I am thinking the same way. I plan to adjust the brake so it is proud of the gas pedal but even so I want as much room as I can get for my size 15 feet. I may have to be careful to wear my most narrow shoes.

[rickster991]

Today I installed the radio. Hopefully I can hear it at cruising speeds. It was pretty straightforward. I wired a 50 amp circuit in line with my alternator circuit. It was the easiest spot to tap in. I wired the ground in the trunk. The dimensions are in the pictures. I need to finish wrapping it in fabric, but it sounds good. Tomorrow I’m taking it to an AC guy to have it checked/charged.

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Here is a video of the installation.


https://youtube.com/shorts/rh9otDB1shU?si=Lxj8xiN53swiYnWN

[rickster991]

So lots of progress the last few days…. I took the car to the shop to have the AC charged/checked. There were no leaks so it looks like I have a bad compressor or bad gauges. Had to run a bunch of errands and everywhere I stopped people took pictures and ask questions. I really enjoyed it.

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I finished the stereo install and installed the seat heaters. I’m not sure how effective they’ll be without removing a bunch of foam from the seats. I’ll see how it goes and if I have to remove foam, I will in the future.

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I installed Rivet nuts to make the windshield install easier. I plan on doing that tomorrow. We’ll see how it goes. It looks like the windshield wiper motor will be in the way, so I’ll have to remove that.

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I then created brackets to reinforce the dash. I put one by the steering wheel and one in the middle of the dash. The grab handle is reinforcing the passenger side. I used the brackets to install a hide away hinge for the sniper handheld. It’s pretty slick as I can pull it down when I need it but hide it when it’s not in use to keep the analog look of the dash. I picked it up from Etsy. https://www.etsy.com/listing/1467467488/ref=share_ios_native_control (https://www.etsy.com/listing/1467467488/?ref=share_ios_native_control)

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Here is a video of it in action:
https://youtube.com/shorts/5yNPVlOoLEE?
si=CvXTSJH32I7Xe9Cd

Finally after lots of trimming of the trunk aluminum and some fiberglass around the dash I got the body on.

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[rickster991]

I am thinking the same way. I plan to adjust the brake so it is proud of the gas pedal but even so I want as much room as I can get for my size 15 feet. I may have to be careful to wear my most narrow shoes.

I adjusted mine so when it fully depressed it is even with the accelerator. Thats how my M3 is and it’s perfect for heel-toe shifting.

[RobHartley]

I installed Rivet nuts to make the windshield install easier. I plan on doing that tomorrow. We’ll see how it goes. It looks like the windshield wiper motor will be in the way, so I’ll have to remove that.

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I like the idea of the rivnuts for the windshield! Will add that to my build.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I installed Rivet nuts to make the windshield install easier.

Interesting, that'll work too...it's opposite of what I did (and what I do for Mk4s) which is to drill & tap the windshield post and keep the oversized chassis holes to allow some adjustment wiggle room. I also switched to socket head screws and used an allen hex socket, extension and ratchet which allowed more room for the tool.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220765&d=1761589256

As they say; more than one way to skin the cat ;)

Jeff


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[gbranham]

I am thinking the same way. I plan to adjust the brake so it is proud of the gas pedal but even so I want as much room as I can get for my size 15 feet. I may have to be careful to wear my most narrow shoes.

I am a wide 12, and there's no hope of driving with normal shoes. I also know that if I bought narrow driving shoes, I'd never go put them on to have a spur of the moment drive. So my solution? I simply take off my right shoe and tuck it under the driver's seat while driving, and put it back on before I get out.

[rickster991]

I am a wide 12, and there's no hope of driving with normal shoes. I also know that if I bought narrow driving shoes, I'd never go put them on to have a spur of the moment drive. So my solution? I simply take off my right shoe and tuck it under the driver's seat while driving, and put it back on before I get out.

That works!

[rickster991]

Cross posting from another thread on MV batteries….

I uploaded a video of my battery placement for those that are wondering about access. I don’t see a way of getting it out without a bunch of work. Looks like the newer frames do not have those cross bars so you can remove it from below. BTW all that coolant splash you see was the result of a loose hose clamp after my heater hose re-route. Tighten those clamps!!! :)


https://youtube.com/shorts/aWu9vFMqhpc?si=Zqvun70zLhOldBWP

[UKSNAKE]

So today I attached the hood, doors, trunk, and windshield. First was the hood. The hinges went together easily after filing the holes. I had some miniature files that did the job. The instructions call for installing the bolts with the hood closed. I could not get to the bolts so I was able to do it by propping the hood and doing it from the top. Once the hood is attached the adjustment bolts can be accessed from the wheel wells.

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The first thing I checked was the clearance to the reservoirs once the strut is attached. I’m happy to report that there was no issue with my placement. In fact I was able to raise them to the maximum height with no issue.

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I made a quick video showing the reservoirs and strut placement.


https://youtube.com/shorts/0qqXirY-hd0?si=DgAIc6QAD_YWASJ-

The doors and trunk went on without issue. I did just enough to hand it over to my body/paint guy. I then tried to install the windshield. The driver side is fine, but the AC evaporator is interfering with the bolt placement on the passenger side. I am going to have to move the box. I need to remove the body to add the bulb seal. So I’ll move it then. I took some pictures for the insurance quote. Here she is…

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Wow as always for everything you post thanks Rick. Im about to do resevoirs and have been putting it off, you have helped a lot. Do you have any pictures from the other side of engine bay or above at an angle to see how far down the frame you went with the attachments. Looks like they may be center or at the very top, hard to tell and i want to recreate what you did. No bracket right? just straight on to the chassis.

[Aleinsteingenius]

This is how I did reservoirs. The bracket i made is attached with Rivnuts so I can swing it out of the way for engine install. Too soon to tell if this plan is going to work.221899221900

[rickster991]

Wow as always for everything you post thanks Rick. Im about to do resevoirs and have been putting it off, you have helped a lot. Do you have any pictures from the other side of engine bay or above at an angle to see how far down the frame you went with the attachments. Looks like they may be center or at the very top, hard to tell and i want to recreate what you did. No bracket right? just straight on to the chassis.

Straight to the chassis. I’ll be starting the final push on Monday when I get back. I can take closer pictures and post. If I recall that bar is not very tall. You can see from Al’s, not his real name :), that the bar is tilting down. So if you want the brackets in the bar and level start low from the firewall to the nose.

[Aleinsteingenius]

You may be able to see from this pic that my bracket is pretty level with the car sitting on it's wheels.

221956

[rickster991]

You may be able to see from this pic that my bracket is pretty level with the car sitting on it's wheels.

221956

Right. The bar is not level. So when I went to attach the second bracket in line and parallel to the first I couldn’t because I did not notice or account for the slope. Your picture shows how out of level the bar is. So if you want to attach without a separate bracket and all at the same level you need to account for the slope.

[Aleinsteingenius]

Correct. The reservoirs themselves are not even in that pic because I didn't bother to adjust them for height yet.

[MakoGT350]

Can you tell me more about the OATA on Lee Road? I am in St Augustine and want to get my plan together for when that step comes.

[rickster991]

It’s a long story. It worked initially but a week later the State said TL-48 was invalid for FFR and that I have to do TL-41. I am still in the process of getting through it. Unfortunately they have my MCO and I have to go through a process to get it back before I can proceed. It has been a nightmare. Once I finally get it fixed I’ll post an update. It has worked for some people, and it worked for me for as week…

[rickster991]

Straight to the chassis. I’ll be starting the final push on Monday when I get back. I can take closer pictures and post. If I recall that bar is not very tall. You can see from Al’s, not his real name :), that the bar is tilting down. So if you want the brackets in the bar and level start low from the firewall to the nose.

Here is a closer picture of the slant in the bar and the brackets going diagonally.

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[rickster991]

So I’m back at it. Trying to get the final position of the body. I removed the headers as they were not allowing the body to sit right. I may need to enlarge the cutout on the passenger side. My latest issue is with the door hinges. When tightened they hit the body so they will not open. I had to add washers between them and the frame to clear the body. Is this normal? The body is on with the quickjacks and the body clears the rear bulk head by an 1/8 of an inch. The only way to move it more forward would be to possibly cut the spacers on the rear quickjacks. Should I just use washers?

[Papa_Jack]

Following your build with some interest as I've recently started on my own MK5 build. I'm particularly interested if you received a response back from BP on your heater hose issue mentioned in post #290 and #293. I have the same issue on my BP 347. Did the 90 degree heater hose from Amazon work out? When I received my engine from BP I was shocked to see that the AC unit I ordered was not installed. BP was very apologetic and they sent me the complete new front drive (the front drive without AC is different than with AC) unit with all components that included the absent AC compressor that I had to install. I did have to return the replaced components for which they provided the call tags. Not happy with their sloppy oversight, but they did compensate me for the inconvenience. Very much appreciate your work and highlighting some of the issues and solutions that await. Enjoy.

[rickster991]

Following your build with some interest as I've recently started on my own MK5 build. I'm particularly interested if you received a response back from BP on your heater hose issue mentioned in post #290 and #293. I have the same issue on my BP 347. Did the 90 degree heater hose from Amazon work out? When I received my engine from BP I was shocked to see that the AC unit I ordered was not installed. BP was very apologetic and they sent me the complete new front drive (the front drive without AC is different than with AC) unit with all components that included the absent AC compressor that I had to install. I did have to return the replaced components for which they provided the call tags. Not happy with their sloppy oversight, but they did compensate me for the inconvenience. Very much appreciate your work and highlighting some of the issues and solutions that await. Enjoy.

Sorry to hear, but I’m glad they made it right. Check out this post for the hose I used for the water pump. I had to cut it, but it snaked through the tight space that was available.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51417-Rick-s-Mark-V-Roadster-Build&p=593672&viewfull=1#post593672

[rickster991]

So I decided to remove the body mounts and see if I could get the body to fit better and have the hinges clear the body. Once I removed them the body came forward and the hinges cleared. I was then able to align the wheel openings with the frame. I secured the body to the frame using screws to make sure it did not move.

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With this alignment the hinges cleared the body on both sides. This also provided better fit for the headers. I had to relocate my header mounts, which was aggravating, but they look much better now.

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I was then able to attach the front mounts without issue. The rear bolt holes align, but the spacers do not fit. I used a scrap piece of wood I had laying around to measure what the spacers need to be. The gap is 3”. The spacers are 3 3/4”.

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I spoke to FFR and they said I may have received the wrong spacers??? They are going to get back to me. Can someone measure theirs if you have them handy? I don’t think I have a choice, but to cut mine to size.

[Papa_Jack]

Sorry to hear, but I’m glad they made it right. Check out this post for the hose I used for the water pump. I had to cut it, but it snaked through the tight space that was available.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51417-Rick-s-Mark-V-Roadster-Build&p=593672&viewfull=1#post593672

Awesome. I did miss that entry reading through your posts. Many thanks.

[rickster991]

I am really struggling with the body. After all the adjustments and reinstalling the passenger headers, now the hood is way off and there is not enough adjustment space in the hinges to even get it close. I’m taking it to my painter tomorrow and he has done many FFR roadsters. Hopefully he can help.

[Higgybulin]

I am really struggling with the body. After all the adjustments and reinstalling the passenger headers, now the hood is way off and there is not enough adjustment space in the hinges to even get it close. I’m taking it to my painter tomorrow and he has done many FFR roadsters. Hopefully he can help.

Post up what he says about the hood!
Higgy

[Jeff Kleiner]

What sort of problems are you having with the hood Rick?

Jeff

[rickster991]

It all started with door hinges not clearing the body. So I tried to move the body forward to clear the hinges. I was able to get it all looking good(side pipe, doors, trunk. When I went to re-install the rear mounts the spacers were off by 3/4”. The rear bolts lined up so I figured the body was aligned. When I went to re-adjust the hood, it was off by that 3/4” of an inch after full adjustment of the hinge. So that told me that the rear spacers were correct and something else was wrong. So I slept on it…

This morning I decided to remove the screws holding the body to the frame that I used to move it forward the 3/4”. I forced the spacers back in, all of them fit with a washer, but one. I tightened them, and installed the hood. It fit perfectly. The hinge on the passenger side cleared by 1/16”! The hinge on the driver side will clear if I screw the body down with a little force! I’m calling that a win! The side pipes on the driver side fit perfectly. The passenger side needed a significant amount of cutting on the opening that FFR cut. Probably an inch. But everything is fitting enough, I assume, for my painter. I’m going to see him today to get his opinion. Fingers crossed. After that will be the windshield. I hope that goes well. Thanks for offering help Jeff!

[Jeff Kleiner]

It all started with door hinges not clearing the body. So I tried to move the body forward to clear the hinges. I was able to get it all looking good(side pipe, doors, trunk. When I went to re-install the rear mounts the spacers were off by 3/4”. The rear bolts lined up so I figured the body was aligned. When I went to re-adjust the hood, it was off by that 3/4” of an inch after full adjustment of the hinge. So that told me that the rear spacers were correct and something else was wrong. So I slept on it…

This morning I decided to remove the screws holding the body to the frame that I used to move it forward the 3/4”. I forced the spacers back in, all of them fit with a washer, but one. I tightened them, and installed the hood. It fit perfectly. The hinge on the passenger side cleared by 1/16”! The hinge on the driver side will clear if I screw the body down with a little force! I’m calling that a win! The side pipes on the driver side fit perfectly. The passenger side needed a significant amount of cutting on the opening that FFR cut. Probably an inch. But everything is fitting enough, I assume, for my painter. I’m going to see him today to get his opinion. Fingers crossed. After that will be the windshield. I hope that goes well. Thanks for offering help Jeff!

Sounds like you got it! FWIW, I throw those rear internal spacers into the trash on Mk2,3 and 4s. I didn't use them when I did the initial mockup on my Mk5 either (in the end I made hidden mounts for the rear as well as the front). A better indicator of body fore and aft positioning is the roll bar(s) and the near vertical chassis member at the rear of the door opening.

Jeff

[rickster991]

Can you explain your process? What should door opening look like? Thanks!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Can you explain your process? What should door opening look like? Thanks!

You want the flange at the rear of the door to be just ahead of the plate where the door striker bolts on. My Mk4 beta chassis is different with a bolt on plate rather than welded on like the production chassis but here's a look anyway:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222377&d=1764792995

This is a picture of a Mk4 but you are shooting for similar spacing:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220174&d=1571711049

Hope that helps you to visualize it.

Jeff

222377

[rickster991]

Thanks, I’ll verify! I got the thumbs up from the painter. Looks like I’m slotted for mid January! 🤞🏼I test fit the windshield and it is not square. Looks like I’ll have to bend it like in this video.


https://youtu.be/Mb1eHZhwxDM

[rickster991]

Here is a video of the body fit…


https://youtube.com/shorts/_jivFZ7gGMI?si=rDg6GpmKbmotvEtG

And another of the first drive and loading it up to take to the painter.


https://youtube.com/shorts/6BXUDqeIMUc?si=6kgoVURUY4r-cDqf

[rickster991]

I bent the arms of the windshield and it went in fine. Quick question for the experts… After marking the holes, one of the sides is not parallel. Do I simply drill the holes in the center of the arm and parallel to the sides? Or do I drill where the marks are. The marks make it even on both sides, and where it wanted to lay. I figured in the center??? Or will that twist it and stress the windshield? Any advice, as always, is greatly appreciated!

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[Jeff Kleiner]

I bent the arms of the windshield and it went in fine. Quick question for the experts… After marking the holes, one of the sides is not parallel. Do I simply drill the holes in the center of the arm and parallel to the sides? Or do I drill where the marks are. The marks make it even on both sides, and where it wanted to lay. I figured in the center??? Or will that twist it and stress the windshield? Any advice, as always, is greatly appreciated!



Yes, just transfer your marks over to the center. Life will be much easier for you if you drill and tap the windshield arms rather than drilling through and using nuts and bolts. On my Mk5 since space is tight and getting a tool (specifically a 3/4" swivel socket on a 1/2" bolt) in there I used 3/8" socket head bolts which can be more easily accessed with an allen socket with swivel. Just something you might want to consider. Oh, by the way, don't forget to shim as necessary to take up any space between the windshield arms and chassis!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222408&d=1761589256

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222409&d=1764862334

Jeff

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[rickster991]

Thanks!

[rickster991]

So I made progress on the windshield, but I’m stuck. I couldn’t get it to line up, so I figured my bends were wrong, and it was twisted. So I installed the rails without the glass and tightened them so my measure was exact on both sides, 27.25”. I then installed the glass in one side and my angles were way off. So I bent them so they aligned. I got it so the top of the glass fit perfectly. When I went to install the lower bolts I am 1/4” off! Everything I read said to make sure to use spacers to not stress the glass! Are the spacers used so the rails are at an angle? What am I doing wrong? :( As usual any advice is appreciated!

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[rickster991]

Should I bend the mounts a bit?

[Higgybulin]

Should I bend the mounts a bit?

I wouldn't bend the mounts. It looks as though you have spacers in there but need them.
Higgy

[Jeff Kleiner]

Should I bend the mounts a bit?

No, but you can put some twist into the side posta.

Jeff

[rickster991]

I’ll give that a shot. FFR says to simply attach glass and put spacers. I’ll keep everyone updated.

[rickster991]

I wouldn't bend the mounts. It looks as though you have spacers in there but need them.
Higgy

No spacers. The rivnuts add a 1/16” combined.

[MakoGT350]

Today I worked on wiring the dash. I finished all the connections according to the manual. Fingers crossed it all works.

216111

A few questions.

1. I couldn't find a corresponding ground wire for the light switch. I assume I can just tie it to the chassis or any any other available ground wire.
2. The dimmer for the gauges requires constant power. I hooked it to the battery terminal of the starter switch, Is that acceptable?
3. Do you use the wires provided with the Oil/water sensors or do you use the wires in the harness? I thought it would be easier to simply using the connectors/wires provided.

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I then proceed to mock up the AC evaporator. The only way I could get the lines to not run into the frame was to mount it at a slight angle. I used some angle brackets along with the provided brackets to get 4 points of contact. I was reading some posts and some people forego using the bulkhead connectors. It seems that It would be a pretty tight fit with them in there. I mocked it with just the grommets. I would just need to figure out a place to put the connectors with the valves. Can they both be connected at the compressor?

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Hey Rick - what did you do with #3 in your post? The wires that come with the gauges or the wires in the harness? (assuming you are using the FFR Vintage 7 gauge GPS kit)

[rickster991]

Hey Rick - what did you do with #3 in your post? The wires that come with the gauges or the wires in the harness? (assuming you are using the FFR Vintage 7 gauge GPS kit)

Wires that came with gauges.

[MakoGT350]

Awesome - thanks!

BTW - really enjoying your build thread and getting a lot of value from all of your detail. You and I have a very similar build and you are a little ahead of me, it has been really helpful!

[rickster991]

I installed my plate. Although it’s tied to an unofficial title that I have yet to resolve. I have to go through a 6-8 week process to get a copy of my COO back… Then I can start the next process…

222752

I was able to get the windshield installed. With the rivet-nuts I used, I decided to use longer bolts through the backside of them as “studs” and use nuts to attach. Worked like a charm. Still don’t understand how it fits with the glass pre-installed vs after. The upper mounts are tight and the lowers have a gap, so it’s in there at an angle and it did cause a small separation between the glass and the side rails.

222753 222754

For those that are installing AC and wipers, make sure you can remove them, with the body on, so you can get your arm in there to install the windshield. Getting to the nuts and bolts on the driver side is a breeze. Passenger side is an exercise in contortion-ism!

When I get the go-kart back from the painter, I am going to modify both so I can remove/move them with the body on.

[rickster991]

Drove it on the street for the first time. It definitely needs an alignment. It was sketchy above 40!


https://youtube.com/shorts/e8Jt_-YQG-k?si=nHa6XV1iE2wRnHEk

I put it in the lift to see if anything was loose or leaking. All good! But noticed my tire patch was a bit narrow! Forgot to lower the pressure. It was at 32, but it weighs 2440 lbs, so I set it to 24 psi. Hopefully that helps a bit. It has crazy power/acceleration!

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[Jeff Kleiner]

22-23 psi and get it aligned. If toe is off the car will be all over the place!!! :eek:

7-8 degrees positive caster
.5-.75 degree negative camber
3/32" total toe in (in, not out)

Jeff

[rickster991]

Thanks!

[rickster991]

Jeff, how about the rear camber? I have IRS.

[rickster991]

Today I did a string alignment and got the rear dialed in. Was able to set toe and camber.i used a level from Amazon for the camber. In the front I set camber but not caster. I could not get toe set correctly. I’m pretty sure the tie rod ends need to be removed to do it. When I got one wheel set the other was way off. I’ll leave that to the pros. BUT it’s good enough to drive around the neighborhood. I was able to go 60 without feeling like I was going to die! I figured out some of the play in the steering was the shaft from the steering wheel going into the receiving shaft. I drilled and tapped a set screw to remove the play. Worked like a charm. I assume the rest will be gone once the caster/ toe is correct. As per the instructions, you are supposed to add a washer, but I never could figure out how to get it in there.

I also got my AC working! My son asked me to turn it off because it was freezing! I have not hooked up the vents so it was dumping on his lap.

Lastly I finished the carbon fiber wrap on the center console. I don’t like it. It’s too monotone. I got a rendering of it with wood. I like it and I’m going to give it a shot. That’s what good about vinyl wrap. It’s cheap to experiment and figure it out.

222943 222944

[rickster991]

Should I be worried about this rust? I noticed a lot of the black socket head bolts are rusting as well. Sand it and paint?

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[cv2065]

Should I be worried about this rust? I noticed a lot of the black socket head bolts are rusting as well. Sand it and paint?

223014 223015

Many, like myself, paint the differential and trans coupling while it's out of the car. That stuff will rust if you look at it the wrong way. Same with the IRS spindles. POR15 works great. I haven't seen an FFR driveshaft rust like that though during a build, especially up the slip yoke. Was it left outside or something?

[rickster991]

No in my garage. It is really humid here. Same thing happened to some of my tools. :( I’ll look at POR15.

[rickster991]

I used PB Blaster and a wire brush. Worked great. Need to clean it well and paint it…

[Dantman]

Congrats on your build. I read in one of the threads about a driveshaft safety loop for the MK5. Can you share where you purchased this from??

[rickster991]

Thanks! I got it here, but it took serious massaging(ie grinding and a big hammer) to get it to fit. FYI

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Drive-Shaft-Safety-Loop,2188.html

[rickster991]

100 mile walk around. Brakes are dialed in. Steering is solid with a bit of play. Hopefully goes away with pro alignment. But overall drives amazing. Only been up to 65 mph, but that feels like 100! :)


https://youtube.com/shorts/55zZ4jpfPAE?si=Im1-d_plbKokodCb

[RobHartley]

Looking at post https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51417-Rick-s-Mark-V-Roadster-Build&p=589229&viewfull=1#post589229, I see you changed this out in post https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51417-Rick-s-Mark-V-Roadster-Build&p=593672&viewfull=1#post593672 to a ACDELCO 14110S, looks like you cut this into to 2 pieces with a connector to get the right orientation, is that the correct assumption or is it 2 separate types of hoses you used?

NVM I see you added more in post #429 - all Good

Thanks for this Rick, I am going to need this heater hose solution with my BP347


I answered my own question. This may work. https://a.co/d/2pHqFmK

[rickster991]

Yep the AC Delco hose worked. You can trim it to fit after it clears the alternator.

[rickster991]

I finished the interior. I really like the contrast. I ended up buying the panel from Snakebite Motorworks as I did not like the one that came with the kit. The multiple panels did not look right when covered with wrap. I did make the shifter hole as small as possible so that the shifter trim and e-brake trim rings would fit. The shifter ring is almost completely offset to the left. That was another reason for the blank panel. With the stock panel I could not get four screws on the e-brake trim.

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[rickshank]

Great job! I like the look.

[rickster991]

After some advice from the forum, I decided to re-route my heater hoses away from the EFI fuel lines. I’m not sure this is the final solution, but it will do for now.

223285

[rickster991]

Update: I have been driving it and have 400 miles on it. I had gone over speed bumps without an issue, but this morning it bottomed out on a speed bump I had gone over before??? It’s basically bent 90 degrees. I’ll see if I can salvage it when I’m back in NC with the lift.

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When I looked at it I noticed the rear was pretty low. It had changed from 4.5” to 3”! I re-set the coilovers back to 4.5” and used the set screws. The roads here are pretty bumpy so I guess they worked themselves loose. I’ll definitely keep an eye on that in the future. The fronts did not change very much, but I reset them.

I had an issue with the AC making a squealing noise, and after advice from the forum I tightened the belt little by little until it stopped. Easy fix! Can’t wait to see how it drives once it’s properly aligned and corner balanced!

[dr-sicel]

Thanks, this inspired me to add a post to help hold the fuse panel...


This is very helpful to see. I do wonder… I mean, eventually MCs leak. Odd to have your panel just under it.
I don’t really see anywhere else on the driver side it could be mounted. I could see space on the passenger side, but the bundles are (I suspect) the wrong length.

Thanks!

[rickster991]

You are definitely limited to areas. If you are worried about leaking you can build a cover for it. I hope to do this once the body of off to paint. Update: I got to 500 miles and so far so good. I tried 0-60 times, although not past 4500 rpm and it was a respectable 4.6s. Man what a blast to drive!

Stereo update. I can hear it really well cruising at 70 on the highway, ~2000 rpm.

Registration update. Still have not gotten copy of MCO from FL! I have asked FFR for a new copy. I spoke to someone at the DMV and asked if they could use the one they had on file. Their answer was “we can’t register FFR in Florida”. I about had a heart attack and told them they have to be mistaken! They are asking a supervisor and getting back to me. Holy smokes this is so frustrating!!! Fingers crossed…

[Jeff Kleiner]

...Registration update. Still have not gotten copy of MCO from FL! I have asked FFR for a new copy. I spoke to someone at the DMV and asked if they could use the one they had on file. Their answer was “we can’t register FFR in Florida”. …

You most certainly can register a Factory Five in Florida. Reach out to Henry ("65 Cobra Dude") for info on how to do it legally (not some questionable out of state LLC method).

Jeff

[cv2065]

You are definitely limited to areas. If you are worried about leaking you can build a cover for it. I hope to do this once the body of off to paint. Update: I got to 500 miles and so far so good. I tried 0-60 times, although not past 4500 rpm and it was a respectable 4.6s. Man what a blast to drive!

Stereo update. I can hear it really well cruising at 70 on the highway, ~2000 rpm.

Registration update. Still have not gotten copy of MCO from FL! I have asked FFR for a new copy. I spoke to someone at the DMV and asked if they could use the one they had on file. Their answer was “we can’t register FFR in Florida”. I about had a heart attack and told them they have to be mistaken! They are asking a supervisor and getting back to me. Holy smokes this is so frustrating!!! Fingers crossed…

First mistake is going to the DMV. Absolute nightmare in FL. You'll want to take it to OATA if you are going to be in the Orlando or Melbourne areas any time soon. You'll be in and out inside of 30 minutes with appointment. Just bring your DL, COO, proof of insurance, receipts and your filled out TL-48. You'll walk out with a plate unless you want something custom. They are even open on weekends and their website is very appointment friendly.

[rickster991]

First mistake is going to the DMV. Absolute nightmare in FL. You'll want to take it to OATA if you are going to be in the Orlando or Melbourne areas any time soon. You'll be in and out inside of 30 minutes with appointment. Just bring your DL, COO, proof of insurance, receipts and your filled out TL-48. You'll walk out with a plate unless you want something custom. They are even open on weekends and their website is very appointment friendly.


I did that and got my tag, title, insurance and registration.(Went to OATA in Orlando) That's why I am ok driving it.. BUT, FL contacted me several days later and stated that the TL-48 process is not valid for FFR and asked me to return my title and start the TL-41 process. They have my MCO from the TL-48 process, I am trying to get it back/copy for the TL-41 process. That was in the beginning of October and I have been trying to fix it since. Quite the nightmare...

[cv2065]

I did that and got my tag, title, insurance and registration.(Went to OATA in Orlando) That's why I am ok driving it.. BUT, FL contacted me several days later and stated that the TL-48 process is not valid for FFR and asked me to return my title and start the TL-41 process. They have my MCO from the TL-48 process, I am trying to get it back/copy for the TL-41 process. That was in the beginning of October and I have been trying to fix it since. Quite the nightmare...

Oh that's right. I remember reading that when you updated. Hopefully you'll get your certificate back!!

[rponfick]

This is very helpful to see. I do wonder… I mean, eventually MCs leak. Odd to have your panel just under it.
I don’t really see anywhere else on the driver side it could be mounted. I could see space on the passenger side, but the bundles are (I suspect) the wrong length.

Thanks!
I just put a piece of visqueen over the fuse box area. It will divert any leakage around fuse box but not stop leaks. It also comes in handy if you have a water leak through the windshield post hole. Instructions now say to seal this area with silicone sealer.
Ralph

[Mike.Bray]

I mean, eventually MCs leak.

I was going to say this depends on which ones you have but decided not to:cool:

[rickster991]

Oh that's right. I remember reading that when you updated. Hopefully you'll get your certificate back!!

Ok I finally have my car registered. I filled out the TL-41 as a kit car. After lots of “discussion” at the DMV I could not do replica or kit car. According to the supervisor FFR is not registered with Florida as a Kit Manufacturer. My only option was ASPT. So they helped me fill out the paperwork, get a waiver for the airbags and we scheduled an inspection. The inspection was pretty basic, but I almost failed! My brake lights would not come on. It turns out that they only come on when the brake is all the way to the floor. I passed inspection and got my sealed package and headed to the tag office. After lots of “discussions” there , they put it through as ASPT. They wanted to do replica or kit and I begged them to leave it alone and they did. So I have an ASPT rebuilt title.

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I had asked FFR for help and they put me in touch with their expert in FL. He said that he has done many cars and always does ASPT. I asked the supervisor why my title was flagged and he mentioned they are auditing titles going back to 1980! So who knows… hopefully others that have gone through the TL-48 process won’t go through my nightmare.

[rickster991]

I saw this post from edwardb. So I am going to try and adjust the switch.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?35468-Brake-Light-Switch-for-Factory-Five-Cobra-Roadster&p=405159&viewfull=1#post405159

[65 Cobra Dude]

Glad to hear you got it through the FL red tape! Congratulations!

Henry

[rickster991]

Was able to adjust it. When I changed my position on the brake pedal I did not readjust it. Moved it out until light turned on and then a couple of twists back. Now it comes on when I barely touch the brake pedal. Phew that was an easy one. I will say make sure to adjust it while you have access. Quite the contortionist exercise to get to it!

[rickster991]

Glad to hear you got it through the FL red tape! Congratulations!

Henry
Thanks!

[cv2065]

Ok I finally have my car registered. I filled out the TL-41 as a kit car. After lots of “discussion” at the DMV I could not do replica or kit car. According to the supervisor FFR is not registered with Florida as a Kit Manufacturer. My only option was ASPT. So they helped me fill out the paperwork, get a waiver for the airbags and we scheduled an inspection. The inspection was pretty basic, but I almost failed! My brake lights would not come on. It turns out that they only come on when the brake is all the way to the floor. I passed inspection and got my sealed package and headed to the tag office. After lots of “discussions” there , they put it through as ASPT. They wanted to do replica or kit and I begged them to leave it alone and they did. So I have an ASPT rebuilt title.

223720 223721

I had asked FFR for help and they put me in touch with their expert in FL. He said that he has done many cars and always does ASPT. I asked the supervisor why my title was flagged and he mentioned they are auditing titles going back to 1980! So who knows… hopefully others that have gone through the TL-48 process won’t go through my nightmare.

Well, at least you got it all squared away. I'm not sure why FFR and Florida can't get this right in the state as they've been at it for a while. All Backdraft and Superformance cars are listed as 1965 Replica. Factory Five is on Sunbiz as a manufacturer, but somehow that doesn't translate to the actual DMV database.

[rickster991]

Yeah it’s weird, I was thinking about it and I wonder if what really happened was my VIN change. When I got home from OATA I noticed they got the VIN wrong. So I went to a local tag agency to fix it. I wonder if that triggered the audit. Either way I’m done with it.

[rickster991]

I’ve been posting on another thread about my brake booster experience. Here is the latest….

After driving for a bit, it doesn’t feel like I am getting much assistance from the booster. So I decided to install a vacuum gauge to see what’s going on. It looks like im getting 15 inHg at idle. From reading some posts it looks like you need 18 inHg for the booster. I am going to check with FFR on Monday.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1V2CCHhT7xo-znoXu3LwR0TH_XZn81JCA/view?usp=drivesdk

I hope that simply installing a canister will solve the issue. I like the look of this one, can use my gauge and it fits nicely next to my brake reservoirs.

https://a.co/d/aXRuvCQ

After talking to FFR, they could not give me the required vacuum specs for the booster, but said my engine should be fine. They did mention that I should be using vacuum line instead of the 130 psi fuel line I was using. So that was the first step. I noticed a little difference but nothing dramatic. So I decided to install the vacuum canister. It was straightforward. I had to use a different mount as the one supplied caused the canister to not fit. The first thing I noticed was a steady gauge needle and 20+ inHg.

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I then went for a drive. What a difference! It still felt solid but the brakes engaged much sooner and firmer. I was finally able to lock up the tires! I noticed my rears locked up before the fronts so I need to adjust the balance bar. Overall I recommend installing the canister. It’s worth the $60 investment.

[rickster991]

Final install…. I like the look!

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[rickster991]

I have over 800 miles on the car so I decided to check underneath to make there were no surprises. I found one! The rims are rubbing on the anti-sway bar. It happens on full extension so I think it’s happening at low speed when I’m in and out of the garage.

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I saw a thread that said to use these from Breeze.

https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/steering-rack-travel-limit-spacer/

Will these work with my power steering rack? Simple as remove dust boot and place them?

[dr-sicel]

I finished plumbing the evaporator by running the drainage lines. No surprises and it went smoothly. I decided to run the lines out the front of the footbox instead of the floor as the instructions call for. Installed a grommet through the sheet metal and then a tie down to the frame. I thought you might see the line if I ran it through the floor.

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Thank you for all this - it will help considerably once I get to the HVAC portion of my build. I’m pretty sure I’m in the bottom 10% for progress - don’t have a lot of time to dedicate to it, but it’s plugging along. Engine install is imminent (which is code for 1-4 weeks away, haha).

[rickster991]

Thank you for all this - it will help considerably once I get to the HVAC portion of my build. I’m pretty sure I’m in the bottom 10% for progress - don’t have a lot of time to dedicate to it, but it’s plugging along. Engine install is imminent (which is code for 1-4 weeks away, haha).

No worries. I had to move the location of the condenser from my initial installation. Make sure you check that out.

[rickster991]

I saw a thread that said to use these from Breeze.

https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/steering-rack-travel-limit-spacer/

Will these work with my power steering rack? Simple as remove dust boot and place them?

Update: I posted a thread on the main board and got feedback. From yes you can use these to simply cut some material off the sway bar. After investigating I noticed that the bar was no longer centered. I centered it and now there is no rubbing. Although the clearance is minimal. I am 90% sure I centered it. Someone suggested these to stop it from shifting. Seemed like a simple inexpensive fix so I went for it. I got the 7/8” after measuring the bar.

https://a.co/d/5QwP2me

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[rickster991]

I found a solution to my cup holder placement. The only spot available on the console was in the back on the driver side. This would interfere with shifting. So, inspired by my 911, I opted for a sliding tray design. I purchased these two and was able to use the mounting from one to hold the other.

https://a.co/d/0Mvq9sI
https://a.co/d/3Ql8Qs0

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It works really well and is attached to the dash and frame. The dash is at a slight angle so i had to leave a gap so it’s level. I plan to build a panel to cover the gap and hold the AC vent.

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https://youtube.com/shorts/V76NMnNZ_io?si=QytvAic_zNrolIFZ

[rickster991]

I decided to look into the steering play I have. I was hoping it would go away with the alignment but it didn’t. Driving on Florida’s straight roads it’s manageable, but once I drove it in NC it removes all confidence on winding roads. I thought the play was coming from all the steering column joints, but it’s not. It seems like the play is coming from the rack itself. I uploaded a video showing the play on the rack.


https://youtu.be/rKOR2XXIWW4

I read some posts about adjusting the preload on the rack to remove play. It looks like you loosen the lock nut on the rack and tighten the preload. I think this is the adjustment nut.

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Do you agree? If it is, there is no room to do it! And it seems like the lines are in the way. Anyone have experience with this? Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

[rickster991]

Update: After speaking with FFR support, they agreed that the play is in the rack and that I should watch videos on how to adjust it. They said the shafts should come from the manufacturer without play. I guess I got unlucky. It involves loosening the jam nut, tightening the inner bolt until it’s tight and then backing it out. The wheel should turn freely and the ultimate test is that during turns the wheel should return to straight without issue. The first step was to figure out how to tighten the inner bolt. Turns out it is a 17mm hex. I just happened to have a bolt/nut combo that fit perfectly.

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Loosening the outer nut required channel locks. It was quite the task to get it loose as there are lines in the way. All the videos I saw had the outer nut coming off easily from the inner. That was not the case. They are bound together pretty tightly. So I needed to loosen both enough so that I could hold the outer nut with the channel locks while tightening the inner nut so that I could increase the preload. Step one was to loosen it enough so that I could get the inner nut to bottom out. It was then multiple attempts to get it to increase the preload, not bind, and tighten down snugly. After a couple of hours and lots of swearing it’s done! I drove it in the field and most of the play is gone and it turned freely and returned to center. There is a little play left, but that is in the shaft knuckles. Next will be trying it on windy roads.

[rickster991]

Went for a test drive and it felt amazing! Minimal play and was able to make several u turns at low and high speed and it returned without issue. I think it’s fixed. I marked the bolts to make sure they don’t come loose.


https://youtube.com/shorts/aKXr1vvq7sc?si=APd-8rFfwbX35Tkk

[rickster991]

I dropped the car off with Mike at Spotlight Customs in GA for the paint and body work. Now the waiting begins. The hope is that it is ready for the rally with GA Cobra club in August.

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[rickster991]

I just got my title in the mail. Interesting Secondary Brand. I hope not!!!! :cool:

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[rickster991]

Have not posted in a while as my car has been with Mike at Spotlight Customs for a while. He is making progress and I Should get the go-kart back next week to finalize some things before the body goes back on. He is making progress. Very exciting.

[rickster991]

Can’t seem to upload photos…