Tim's Type 65 Build - Cockpit Wiring Finished?

[Namrups]

Thanks Scott. I am definitely going to do the door cubbies whether I do a glove box or not. I am also considering reinforcing the dash in that area and adding an "Oh $h.." handle instead. Decisions, decisions. I have read your build thread many time and appreciate the weigh in.

The "Oh $h.." handle is a great idea I wish I had thought of. I am always concerned my passenger is going to grab the e-brake handle.

Scott

[PNWTim]

Finished my switch mounting and very happy with how it turned out. I used JB Weld to secure the countersunk screws and standoffs and it's rock solid.

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Standoffs are aluminum and fit great.
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Also mounted my battery

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[PNWTim]

Set the lines for the both the AC and the heat. Used my crimper I bought a couple years ago for my last build. Works excellent and measured about 1/16" line shortening on both ends. The short lines were tough as everyone else knows. Heater lines were crimped with Gater Powergrip clamps. It's a little tricky to shrink these when they're packed together in close quarters but I got them set after a few minutes of heat gun use.

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I also made cover panels for both sides of the upper frame rails.

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And mounted my reservoirs and trim provided by Snakebite Motorworks. It fit really well and is a nice addition of bling to the engine compartment. I don't have a lot of shiny stuff so this is perfect.

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Slowly working my way towards a full dive into wiring. I think I have a pretty good idea but a lot of the dash work is custom so we'll see.

[JimStone]

Making good progress Tim

Those engine bay cover panels and reservoir grommets sure look slick. Has me re-thinking not using them. Snakebite has made them kind of the "must-have" option now...

I like the use of the Gates Powergrips on the heater hoses. Those things rock

[Papa]

Looking great, Tim. Those AC hoses are not something I'm looking forward to.

Nice job on the engine bay rail covers. I got mine from Brent and I think they add a lot to the finished look of the car.

Dave

[PNWTim]

Making good progress Tim

Those engine bay cover panels and reservoir grommets sure look slick. Has me re-thinking not using them. Snakebite has made them kind of the "must-have" option now...

I like the use of the Gates Powergrips on the heater hoses. Those things rock

The trim cover is a really nice piece for sure. I used Gates clamps pretty extensively on my Camaro build and just like the look and finish of them.

[PNWTim]

Looking great, Tim. Those AC hoses are not something I'm looking forward to.

Nice job on the engine bay rail covers. I got mine from Brent and I think they add a lot to the finished look of the car.

Dave

Thanks Dave. I think the AC hoses would be a lot easier if they included the 30 or 45 degree fittings for the lower hose. I believe Wedel456 used those and they take a lot of the "tightness" out of the picture.

I too had a set of covers from Brent but unfortunately, my front end is welded up just a bit differently and we couldn't get them to fit. We actually went through two sets before determining the angles of my radiator support and/or bracing are just slightly different from his pattern car. I agree with you though, it's a nice finishing touch, especially with the trim cover for the reservoirs.

[PNWTim]

I trimmed these two panels to match the framework and hopefully provide clearance for the hood. I don't really understand why these aren't already trimmed by F5 but either way, they are now.

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I also mounted my cutoff switch. Full disclosure - as you can see, I miscalculated my original hole and backing plate. I wanted it tucked up well but where I started didn't take into account the large body of the switch as well as the fact the panel is pivoted closer to the frame member due to the bend on the vertical mounting surface. So I had to drill out my rivets, make a new plate, fill the holes and redrill for the switch.

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And last but not least, I installed the transmission tunnel covers I purchased from Snakebite Motorworks. For all the odd angles they fit quite well. I did trim the DS to clear my fuel and brake lines and had to grind a sharp corner of one frame tube. I also chose to clearance the peak rather than grind the weld in the "V". I just thought it would be a little easier and I can install a small strap on the backside to fill the gap.

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Oh, and diggin' the lift...

[PNWTim]

I have decided to take a U-Turn and major departure from what I was initially planning for my engine side electronics. I have spent the last couple of days dieting the PDB and O2 harness. I made a bracket to fit and mount the ECM to the PS frame rails on top. I also laid out the other harnesses and began advanced planning. And I concluded I don't like any of it. I know it's a good solution but the orientation of the connector on the PDB is not conducive to that mounting location, it's really long and made me really start thinking about options.

Coincidentally, I was reading through Snowman's build thread (again) to verify some information about my wheel and tire setup. While I was in there, I saw where he mounted his ECM (behind the dash) and thought "that might be the ticket". Since I don't have a glove box, and I can work the AC hoses around the body of the computer, I did some measuring. This is what I think I am going to go with:

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This is going to entail drastically shortening the PDB harness, rearranging and possibly lengthening the engine harness but I really like this as a solution.

On another note, I think my car was built on Superbowl Monday. So far I have determined my front chassis is welded just a bit off, my rear chassis seems a bit off (can't get my fuel tank to sit flat to the frame members) and my dash was bent to an incorrect angle. In the picture above, you can see the gap between the firewall and the dash is a good 2". Pulling it down to meet the firewall actually distorts the flat face of the dash to the point I may need to find someone with a 6' brake willing to put this in there and bend it another 7 or 8 degrees. But that's a problem for another day.

[Papa]

It sounds like the guy that laid up the body on my MK4 may have moved to the frame welding crew. Jeff Kleiner told my that my MK4 body was one of the worst he'd ever seen. In the end, nobody will ever see the issues on the finished car.

[burchfieldb]

My dash was the same as yours. I believe it is bent that way to meet up with the body. Otherwise you will have a big gap between it and the windshield. If I am following correctly.

[PNWTim]

My dash was the same as yours. I believe it is bent that way to meet up with the body. Otherwise you will have a big gap between it and the windshield. If I am following correctly.

I think this is a little different. I have looked closely at a lot of build photos and mine seems different. If the face of the dash is clamped square to the 3/4" cross tube, it kicks the forward dash up in the air as shown in the photo. There is no way this is correct or you'd be blowing hot engine air into the cockpit. If I (or the body) push the dash down to meet the firewall it bows out the vertical portion of the dash. I can make it work but I am pretty certain this is not correct. It puts a lot of strain on the dash that probably shouldn't be there.

It's almost like the correct bend should be close to 90 degrees and mine is about 80.

[burchfieldb]

Mine was like this with the top portion of the dash angled up and the front of the fire wall angle out towards the engine. It will require a lot of sealing. Mine was bent at 96 degrees. If at 90 I think there would be a gap between the top of my dash and the body straight into the engine bay.
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[PNWTim]

Mine was like this with the top portion of the dash angled up and the front of the fire wall angle out towards the engine. It will require a lot of sealing. Mine was bent at 96 degrees. If at 90 I think there would be a gap between the top of my dash and the body straight into the engine bay.
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I am going to measure the actual angle today. I don't really think there is much I can do about it. I am sure it will be tight against the body when I put it back on.

[Papa]

Tim & Brent - I'm surprised at the fit you guys are seeing. This is what mine looks like:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219536&d=1759092580

Dave

[8secDuster]

I agree with Brent. Like that on purpose.
Mine was similar. Yours however appears to have gotten the quick, ballpark, kinda looks right, couple of seconds on the brake.
My dash is on a 9 degrees upward angle. I thought is was a little weird so I actually reached out to Paul to have him confirm. His was 8.5

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You can just kinda see the blue squeeze clamp in the back ground holding the dash to the firewall flat.

[PNWTim]

Tim & Brent - I'm surprised at the fit you guys are seeing. This is what mine looks like:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219536&d=1759092580

Dave

Pretty certain that is what it's supposed to look like. Do you have the dash clamped at the cross bar so the face is vertical? If so, then it's revenge of the Superbowl Monday for me.

[PNWTim]

I agree with Brent. Like that on purpose.
Mine was similar. Yours however appears to have gotten the quick, ballpark, kinda looks right, couple of seconds on the brake.
My dash is on a 9 degrees upward angle. I thought is was a little weird so I actually reached out to Paul to have him confirm. His was 8.5

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You can just kinda see the blue squeeze clamp in the back ground holding the dash to the firewall flat.

Thanks Mike. I am going to try and find a kind soul with a large brake that would give this a quick tweak just so I don't have to force the thing to fit.

[Papa]

Pretty certain that is what it's supposed to look like. Do you have the dash clamped at the cross bar so the face is vertical? If so, then it's revenge of the Superbowl Monday for me.

It's not clamped in that picture. I'll get one for you tomorrow and will measure the angle, too.

[Papa]

I just clamped the dash square to the vertical edge of the square bar it mounts to and the top of the dash still sits on the firewall. The angle of the top of the dash is exactly 10 degrees.

[Papa]

Here are a couple of pics:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220856&d=1761834667

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220855&d=1761834667

[PNWTim]

Thanks Dave, I appreciate you taking the time to do this. The picture earlier in my build thread is with mine clamped so it's square to the 3/4" cross tube and the face is vertical, essentially just like you did. When it's positioned like this, there is about a 2 1/2" gap between my dash and the firewall. I'm leaning strongly to finding someone that will put the additional 5 degrees or so of bend in mine so it sits naturally.

[burchfieldb]

Thanks Dave, I appreciate you taking the time to do this. The picture earlier in my build thread is with mine clamped so it's square to the 3/4" cross tube and the face is vertical, essentially just like you did. When it's positioned like this, there is about a 2 1/2" gap between my dash and the firewall. I'm leaning strongly to finding someone that will put the additional 5 degrees or so of bend in mine so it sits naturally.

If it is that far off you could probably get FF5 to semd uou a replacement.

[MSumners]

Looking great! Just getting back through some threads.

[PNWTim]

Looking great! Just getting back through some threads.

Thanks. I am curious where you are on your build? Last I saw, you were trying to charge your AC system but that was 5 months ago so I am guessing you have made a bit of progress since then?

[Lugnut Mark]

Hey Tim … sorry that I’m late to the party but my dash angle unclamped is 11 degrees and clamped was right at 10 degrees (see attached photos) sorry I don’t have a brake that long the one at work is 48”221018221019221020

[PNWTim]

Thanks Mark, no worries. I have already sent a note to F5 asking for a replacement but in the meantime I am going to try a home brew brake on my 8' work table. I can clamp it down with some bar stock and then make a handle to try and tweak it the 4 or 5 degrees it needs to be. We'll see.

[MSumners]

Finished my switch mounting and very happy with how it turned out. I used JB Weld to secure the countersunk screws and standoffs and it's rock solid.

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Standoffs are aluminum and fit great.
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Also mounted my battery

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FYI, I started off with that same battery and it wasn’t enough to kick over the coyote. I had to go bigger.

[PNWTim]

FYI, I started off with that same battery and it wasn’t enough to kick over the coyote. I had to go bigger.

That's odd. I was under the impression many builders had used it with the Coyote. I guess I will have to see. Thanks for the heads up.

[edwardb]

FYI, I started off with that same battery and it wasn’t enough to kick over the coyote. I had to go bigger.


That's odd. I was under the impression many builders had used it with the Coyote. I guess I will have to see. Thanks for the heads up.

I've used that exact battery on my last three builds. Two Coyotes and an LS3. Including my current Coupe which started and ran great during probably my last cruise of the day yesterday. The white on the ground this morning suggests that's the case. I'd suggest checking the battery condition -- if you haven't -- with an AGM specific analyzer/charger. I used a CTEK Multi US 7002. There are others. As long as they test good, spin the Coyote just fine.

[PNWTim]

I feel like I am at the stage of my build where it seems nothing is moving forward but I am spending a significant amount of time in the shop. I suppose small items are just as critical as large, they just don't feel quite as impactful. I have continued on my path to install the computer in the dash area. I fabricated some spacers to raise the mounting points of the ECM so it doesn't interfere with the upper footbox sheetmetal:

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I then cut a hole in my firewall for the computer and mounted it by through-bolting it through the cross frame member on one side and tapping the other with a 1/4-28 thread. I had to tap the inboard bolt as I inadvertently placed this hole over a frame junction and weld. It feels very secure even though it is cantilevered out quite a bit.

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For those of you (if any) wondering how much space is left between the ECM and the dash, this is for you. I will probably fabricate a support bracket that will be integrated with the dash face panel to support the rear of the ECM even though it doesn't need it. Mostly for piece of mind in the event of fatigue of the mounting ears and potential failure down the road.

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I also welded in my drive shaft hoop simply because it was easier than bolting. If it ever get's in the way I suppose I can cut it out but I think it's good to go:

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I repurposed the PDB bracket supplied by Factory Five. I will be using both triangular spaces up front in the engine bay. The PS will be for remote battery posts and the DS for my recovery tank. I actually sent back my Moroso tank to Summit this week so I can obtain a smaller version that will fit in this space. I believe Moroso, Canton and Joe's Racing all have options.

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[TwinFins]

I repurposed the PDB bracket supplied by Factory Five. I will be using both triangular spaces up front in the engine bay. The PS will be for remote battery posts and the DS for my recovery tank. I actually sent back my Moroso tank to Summit this week so I can obtain a smaller version that will fit in this space. I believe Moroso, Canton and Joe's Racing all have options.


Please let us know what tank you end up with, Im not thrilled with the Moroso tank either, but I am days away from needing to install it for first start!

[edwardb]

I too am interested in what tank you end up with. Space is really tight with my Mk5 build and the Moroso tank. But I'm curious -- do any of the tank options you're considering plumb the same as the Mustang specific Moroso? And others like Mishimoto, UPR, etc.

[Papa]

Has anyone considered this expansion tank?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-63761?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiAoNbIBhB5EiwAZFbYGNWJdo9fIXrpB0SC_8Rr 28U0RDhaxTlk3qtDuuCAg7LBQFG0uY9pTRoCQ3UQAvD_BwE

It looks a bit more compact while still having all the same connections.

[PNWTim]

I too am interested in what tank you end up with. Space is really tight with my Mk5 build and the Moroso tank. But I'm curious -- do any of the tank options you're considering plumb the same as the Mustang specific Moroso? And others like Mishimoto, UPR, etc.

It's a great question Paul and one I am wrestling with right now. I purchased a Mishimoto tank from Summit and realized it is simply an overlow recovery tank, not an expansion tank. I called Mishimoto this morning and they confirmed that although those two terms are used somewhat interchangeably, they really are not. I am looking at these three and going to contact each manufacturer to ensure I understand the details:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctr-80-200

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/joe-45010

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fld-acccet125pol

My understanding regarding what the Coyote needs is a closed-loop, pressurized coolant recovery system. As long as there are three inlets/outlets, the tank should meet these requirements? Based on the diagram below (posted a few years ago by expert builder edwardb), the line to the radiator is one way and the other two are simply in and out. Now, if there are internal baffles or chambering I am not aware of, that poses an entirely new can of worms.

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Based on this conversation from Mishimoto, the plastic factory tank does have baffles but it's primarily to prevent sloshing and introducing air during hard cornering (think autocross).

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/it%E2%80%99s-what%E2%80%99s-inside-that-counts-2015-mustang-expansion-tank-r-d-at-mishimoto.21251/

So with all that said, if I am way off base or missing a key element in my understanding, please let me know.

[TTimmy]

That's odd. I was under the impression many builders had used it with the Coyote. I guess I will have to see. Thanks for the heads up.

Here is my experience. I used this on my Coyote without issue for just over two years without issue. I just started having problems and Enersys finally agreed to replace the battery under warranty. While Amazon shows the item as having a three year warranty, it seems EnerSys reduced it to two years in 2022.

I am not sure if I got a bad one or if the few times it discharged caused an issue. Either way, the folks at EnerSys stood behind the product after I pushed a bit.

Given you already own the battery and have it installed I would stay the course if I were you.

[PNWTim]

Today I also fit my wiper motor. Nothing earthshaking, just trying to get all the holes poked in my firewall so I can remove, insulate and permanently install.

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[wedel456]

Today I also fit my wiper motor. Nothing earthshaking, just trying to get all the holes poked in my firewall so I can remove, insulate and permanently install.


Have you thought through your firewall extension panels as it relates to the position of your wiper motor? I think you are going to have some interference with your placement.

[F500guy]

Looking good, as a side note, maybe some time in December I can swing by and look at the coupe. I would like to see one up close. Should have visited earlier when I could bring the cobra!

[PNWTim]

Have you thought through your firewall extension panels as it relates to the position of your wiper motor? I think you are going to have some interference with your placement.
So, the short answer is no. I sat there and stared at that spot wondering if there was going to be any interference from anything and decided it was going to be OK. I had totally forgotten about those panels which I believe are at the powder coaters at the moment. I appreciate the heads up though. I have room to move it so no real harm done.

EDIT: I just looked at the build manual and you are absolutely correct. Looks like I need to move it about 2" inboard (hard to tell from the photos) to clear the sheet metal. At least it will cover two of the four holes...:mad:

[PNWTim]

Looking good, as a side note, maybe some time in December I can swing by and look at the coupe. I would like to see one up close. Should have visited earlier when I could bring the cobra!

Sure, any time is fine although I am getting rotator cuff surgery on December 12th so probably between now and then would be better. Let me know and I will PM my address.

[460.465USMC]

I feel like I am at the stage of my build where it seems nothing is moving forward but I am spending a significant amount of time in the shop. I suppose small items are just as critical as large, they just don't feel quite as impactful. I have continued on my path to install the computer in the dash area. I fabricated some spacers to raise the mounting points of the ECM so it doesn't interfere with the upper footbox sheetmetal:

I then cut a hole in my firewall for the computer and mounted it by through-bolting it through the cross frame member on one side and tapping the other with a 1/4-28 thread. I had to tap the inboard bolt as I inadvertently placed this hole over a frame junction and weld. It feels very secure even though it is cantilevered out quite a bit.

Boy, can I relate to that. It's the tradeoff I suppose for going off script.

That's a clever spot for your PCM. I don't think I've seen that location used before. Definitely tucks it out of the way, minimizing visibility.

[PNWTim]

Boy, can I relate to that. It's the tradeoff I suppose for going off script.

That's a clever spot for your PCM. I don't think I've seen that location used before. Definitely tucks it out of the way, minimizing visibility.

I can't take credit for any cleverness here. Snowman put his in a similar spot but dead center. I offset mine because I had already mounted my PDB and didn't want to move it. I will have to move/lengthen a bit of the engine harness and I am going to shorten the PDB harness by about 3' or 4' so it's a little more involved. But ultimately I think I'll be happy with it.

"Off Script". I love it. I think I threw my script in the recycling bin 6 months ago and am now operating off of cocktail napkins and a white board. Try as I might, I set out to 100% complete a task and find I am missing or needing ________ fill in the blank. So then it's on to another thing. I am not sure how others do it but I seem to have about 6 to 8 items in motion at all times while waiting on Summit, Amazon or additional head scratching.

[PNWTim]

I have decided to try the Fluidyne expansion tank. It has three inlet/outlets which I believe will work for the Coyote setup. The outlet at the bottom will be the return to the heater fitting at the front of the engine, the other large outlet will be the incoming line from coolant return. I need to determine connections i.e. do I use Ford connectors on the engine side and AN on the tank side or something else?

Here are a few pictures of the tank and where I plan to mount it. I was a bit surprised by it's high polish finish as I guess I missed that in the description.

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I will need to fashion a bracket to drop the tank about 2" but that should be pretty straight forward. Although I know the return line/overflow from the radiator is in the neck of the tank it does discharge directly into it so I am thinking this is OK. If anyone thinks this setup won't work please let me know.

[edwardb]

I will need to fashion a bracket to drop the tank about 2" but that should be pretty straight forward. Although I know the return line/overflow from the radiator is in the neck of the tank it does discharge directly into it so I am thinking this is OK. If anyone thinks this setup won't work please let me know.

So this is interesting to me because I'm also playing the space game with my Mk5 build. The usual Moroso and similar tanks might fit. But I'm also looking at alternatives. One possibility I'm looking at is the Mishimoto MMRT-MUS-24. For 2024+ Mustangs and is more square and deeper. But I digress and will be interested in how this tank works for you. For grins, I looked inside the Moroso tank in my Coupe. Even though it has coolant, I was able to confirm (1) there are no internal baffles, and (2) the two small connections at the top don't go anywhere. They stop after going through the sides. I thought maybe one or both routed to the bottom into fluid or whatever. Not the case. Since that tank has worked fine on the Coupe and my previous Roadster (plus many other builders) I'm thinking any tank with similar plumbing would also work. Like the one you are looking at. My only thought (concern...) about that tank is (1) Less capacity. An issue? (2) The Ford cap is rated for 21 PSI. That's relatively high for a standard cap like the one in the picture you posted. I don't know if it matters. Good luck.

[MSumners]

I know there have been some posts on this in the past but I never really understood. Is there a downside to using the standard reservoir FF includes with the coyote?

[PNWTim]

So this is interesting to me because I'm also playing the space game with my Mk5 build. The usual Moroso and similar tanks might fit. But I'm also looking at alternatives. One possibility I'm looking at is the Mishimoto MMRT-MUS-24. For 2024+ Mustangs and is more square and deeper. But I digress and will be interested in how this tank works for you. For grins, I looked inside the Moroso tank in my Coupe. Even though it has coolant, I was able to confirm (1) there are no internal baffles, and (2) the two small connections at the top don't go anywhere. They stop after going through the sides. I thought maybe one or both routed to the bottom into fluid or whatever. Not the case. Since that tank has worked fine on the Coupe and my previous Roadster (plus many other builders) I'm thinking any tank with similar plumbing would also work. Like the one you are looking at. My only thought (concern...) about that tank is (1) Less capacity. An issue? (2) The Ford cap is rated for 21 PSI. That's relatively high for a standard cap like the one in the picture you posted. I don't know if it matters. Good luck.

Thanks Paul. At this point, I am going to move forward and at least try it. The capacity is a concern of mine but I can't find any information that clarifies what the impact of a smaller tank is other than a reduction in overall system capacity. Just for fun, I looked up the capacity of a 2020 Mustang tank and it's just over a gallon so that didn't really shed any light. There are many tanks similar in size and shape to the Mishimoto you called out, I just can't use them if I am committed to the space I want to use. I overlooked the PSI rating of the tank cap so that's something I'll need to consider. I know the tank itself is pressure tested to 35 psi so it shouldn't be an issue changing out the cap if needed. Fingers crossed.

[PNWTim]

I know there have been some posts on this in the past but I never really understood. Is there a downside to using the standard reservoir FF includes with the coyote?

From a functionality standpoint, no. I simply wanted to use the Boig cool tubes and like the idea of the cap and reservoir being a discreet unit. So we introduce all this complexity for the sake of how it looks...:rolleyes:

[edwardb]

I know there have been some posts on this in the past but I never really understood. Is there a downside to using the standard reservoir FF includes with the coyote?


From a functionality standpoint, no. I simply wanted to use the Boig cool tubes and like the idea of the cap and reservoir being a discreet unit. So we introduce all this complexity for the sake of how it looks...:rolleyes:

There is a little more to it. First off it's how the engineers at Ford designed it to work. Blocking off multiple connections on the Coyote may be OK. Many have done it. But not my personal choice. Probably the biggest advantage is it's "self-burping" meaning no air will be trapped in the cooling system. This can be a problem to clear and bad if you don't know. Again, not insurmountable at all. But with the OE system, it takes care of it. Just keep filling the expansion tank until the level is stable (e.g. all the air has been evacuated) and you're done. Granted, only an issue for the original fill and then later when the coolant is changed. But nice to not have to worry about it. Final point, although minor, is it's a closed system. Under normal use, it doesn't dump coolant. A traditional overflow tank can.

[PNWTim]

Took the time today to put the ancillary items on the engine prior to installation. I had a bit of an issue with the KRC kit missing hardware and an incorrect spacer but I worked through it. I can honestly say the AC belt comes in a solid 2nd place behind the pumpkin installation as a giant PITA. Followed the directions and got it on but it was a bear. Here are a couple of pictures:

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I also prepped the oil and water sending units for installation. I had to order an M14 allen socket to remove the plug in the block so I wans't able to install them.

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[Nigel Allen]

FYI - Coyote with standard 1.2kW reduction starter draws ~100 amps cranking (I have confirmed this previously for another forum member). As Paul says, that battery should do it easily.



Cheers,

Nige

[460.465USMC]

Took the time today to put the ancillary items on the engine prior to installation. I had a bit of an issue with the KRC kit missing hardware and an incorrect spacer but I worked through it. I can honestly say the AC belt comes in a solid 2nd place behind the pumpkin installation as a giant PITA. Followed the directions and got it on but it was a bear.

Looking good, Tim. Coming together nicely. Can't wait to see it nestled in your engine bay.

Ditto on the spacer - too long. Ditto X2 on that AC belt. Let's hope we never have to replace it down the road, from inside the engine bay. No bueno.

[PNWTim]

Installed the stud kit from Moroso and got the pan buttoned up. As I noted in another thread, the Moroso oil pickup bolted right in. Used paper towels to seal off the openings in case I decided to fumble a 10mm nut down into the innards.

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Pan installed and both motor mounts bolted up

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The jumble of sending units are installed. I don't know what others have found, but the orientation shown is the only way I could get the oil pressure Frankenstein sending unit to fit and be possibly serviceable. Any other way it hits the alternator or is really, really close to the headers.

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And here it is, ready for install.

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[Lugnut Mark]

Very nice Tim… nice to see the gen4x finding its way home …. Mine is still a long way out from getting there 222053

[PNWTim]

Thanks Mark. Your picture reminded me that I purchased Summit's lifting plate which I need to bolt up. I'm curious, did you leave the throttle body on the manifold and simply disconnect the electronics and fuel rails to remove it as a unit? Seems like the easiest way to do it.

[460.465USMC]

Glad to hear no nuts were sacrificed into the Coyote's inner abyss! Phew.

Thanks for the picture on the sending unit orientation. I haven't done mine yet. Looks like there are some changes compared to the Gen 3.

[JTG]

Installed the stud kit from Moroso and got the pan buttoned up. As I noted in another thread, the Moroso oil pickup bolted right in. Used paper towels to seal off the openings in case I decided to fumble a 10mm nut down into the innards.



Newbie question. It seems much easier to swap the oil pan with the engine flipped over.
I vaguely recall someone suggesting not to do this, but is that the risk of dropping hardware inside the engine, or is there another reason?

Thanks,
Jon

[PNWTim]

Newbie question. It seems much easier to swap the oil pan with the engine flipped over.
I vaguely recall someone suggesting not to do this, but is that the risk of dropping hardware inside the engine, or is there another reason?

Thanks,
Jon

No reason that I am aware. Most engines and engine stands are designed to rotate 360 degrees. There would be no way to assemble the bottom end on one otherwise. You can change the pan and other items without turning it over but I found it much easier to do so with it inverted. You just need to make sure you drain the oil (into a clean container so you can reuse it) and cap the PCV before you turn it upside down.

Definitely necessary to take some precautions with hardware as a screw or bolt into the bowels of the engine will definitely ruin your day.

[PNWTim]

Glad to hear no nuts were sacrificed into the Coyote's inner abyss! Phew.

Thanks for the picture on the sending unit orientation. I haven't done mine yet. Looks like there are some changes compared to the Gen 3.

I will be curious to see if your interpretation is the same as mine. I tried several configurations and this was the best I could come up with.

[edwardb]

Thanks Mark. Your picture reminded me that I purchased Summit's lifting plate which I need to bolt up. I'm curious, did you leave the throttle body on the manifold and simply disconnect the electronics and fuel rails to remove it as a unit? Seems like the easiest way to do it.

Not Mark. But I used an MMR manifold lifting plate when installing the Aluminator in my build. I assume yours will be the same. Once you remove the 10 manifold bolts, just unplug and remove whatever connectors are still attached (i.e. injectors, throttle body, etc.) plus any hoses. Nothing else to take apart. The manifold lifts off intact including the throttle body, fuel rails, etc. My documentation shows the 10 bolts go back in at 100 inch pound + 35 degrees, which is what I did.

[JTG]

No reason that I am aware. Most engines and engine stands are designed to rotate 360 degrees. There would be no way to assemble the bottom end on one otherwise. You can change the pan and other items without turning it over but I found it much easier to do so with it inverted. You just need to make sure you drain the oil (into a clean container so you can reuse it) and cap the PCV before you turn it upside down.

Definitely nessecary to take some precautions with hardware as a screw or bolt into the bowels of the engine will definitely ruin your day.

Thanks! That was my understanding as well, but it's nice to have confirmation.

[PNWTim]

Not Mark. But I used an MMR manifold lifting plate when installing the Aluminator in my build. I assume yours will be the same. Once you remove the 10 manifold bolts, just unplug and remove whatever connectors are still attached (i.e. injectors, throttle body, etc.) plus any hoses. Nothing else to take apart. The manifold lifts off intact including the throttle body, fuel rails, etc. My documentation shows the 10 bolts go back in at 100 inch pound + 35 degrees, which is what I did.

Awesome, thanks Paul. I was hoping this was the case. Mine has a vertical fin with three holes. I believe yours has the lifting eye, which is a nice feature. I think one of the greatest benefits is how high you can lift the engine. I have had a bit of a snafu with my wheels and think I am going to install my engine and transmission with my car wheelless on the lift. I can get it pretty low and now I can raise the chunk of drive line fairly high so going to give it a go this coming weekend.

[PNWTim]

This update is a bit of a hodgepodge (as usual). I have been making progress in lots of little areas that move the pile forward, but aren’t particularly newsworthy. I have mapped out the changes in the main Coyote harness as well as the RF harness. I will be shortening most of the legs of the PDB harness by about 30”. This will be a pretty sizable undertaking but I’m going to manage it one wire at a time.

I decided a while back to replace most of the terminated harness connections with Deutsch/Amphenol connectors. I am using both the DT and DTP versions. Planning on using them on all four corners for the lighting circuits, the dash bundle and any locations that can benefit from a smaller, tighter connection. This isn’t really meant to be an RF bash (more of a PSA) but since making this decision I have found multiple connectors loosely or incorrectly crimped in the supplied harness. Some of which are on the higher amperage wire. I would encourage everyone to give their harness terminations a wire-by-wire “tug” test while installing, as one of my headlight wires came apart during normal handling.

One of the first items I used the connectors on was the heater control valve, pictured below. I liked the idea of being able to unbolt the heater hoses at front of the footbox, remove the screws holding the top of the foot box, disconnect the electrical fitting and have full access to the AC unit. You can see in the first picture how I routed the wire bundle to the underside. Maybe overkill, but it works for me.
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222412

I have also been buttoning up the last of my aluminum install. Closed out the footboxes which I left open as long as I could. I also permanently mounted the lower trans tunnel covers from Brent @ Snakebite as well as the forward side covers. I also purchased the undrilled main tunnel cover as well as the sloped forward piece from him as well. I am still debating how I am going to manage the top of the trans tunnel. I want both panels removable, but I'm not sure what fastening technique I am going to use.

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I also mounted my overflow/expansion bottle. I am pretty happy with this location but had a bit of a scare. I was originally going to mount it a bit lower but realized belatedly the 90 degree barb coming out of the bottom would conflict with the steering rack. Easy enough to raise an inch and gain more clearance so I am going to claim a win with this one.

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Ultimately, I was hoping to install my engine this weekend, but I’m not sure that will work out. I am going to be taking an extended break starting next Friday after I have my rotator cuff repair. With only one wing available for several weeks, I think my progress will grind to a slow crawl. This Saturday will be one year since my kit delivery and I thought the engine install would be a nice milestone. We’ll see.

[Papa]

Tim,

Your work is looking really clean. For the trans tunnel cover, I used this on my MK4:

https://a.co/d/ccJdZ7q

It works really good and I'll be using it again on my Coupe.

Dave

[PNWTim]

Tim,

Your work is looking really clean. For the trans tunnel cover, I used this on my MK4:

https://a.co/d/ccJdZ7q

It works really good and I'll be using it again on my Coupe.

Dave

Thanks Dave, I appreciate it. I have looked at that exact material. Good to know you have had success with it.

EDIT: I'm curious if the adhesive is adequate for fastening or did you use low profile rivets or something of that nature?

[Papa]

Thanks Dave, I appreciate it. I have looked at that exact material. Good to know you have had success with it.

EDIT: I'm curious if the adhesive is adequate for fastening or did you use low profile rivets or something of that nature?

I just used the adhesive. I've pulled the tunnel cover once since originally installed and it was a not easy like typical Velcro to separate the cover from the frame. I'll use small pieces next time. I'd run it the entire length of the cover on the MK4.

[TwinFins]

I coincidentally recently installed the same tank in the same location. I've run thru a few heat cycles with the Gen4x and all seems to be ok, it gets up to temp and then fluctuates slightly up and down as the thermostat opens/closes and the fan goes on and off. With this said I don't think it is really functioning as intended for the coyote. The 1/4' barb fitting at the top of the tank is on the non-pressurized side of the cap and is meant to be a drain for overflow coolant, not a return from the engine as the coyote cooling diagram shows. I'm pretty committed as I already cut my cover panel from Snakebite to fit the tank so I'm having an additional 1/4" bung welded in to the pressurized side of the tank.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222452&d=1764891269

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222450&d=1764891269


If you are using the tank with the Factory Five style coolant system it should be fine, but if you are trying to mimic the cooling system for the Coyote like a Mustang would use then it might not work out. My plan, worst case if the additional bung doesn't do the trick for some reason, is to go to the Factory Five style system and this will be strictly an overflow tank.

I found the same steering interference you did and solved it the same way. I should probably rotate my hose clamp to buy a couple more millimeters

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222453&d=1764891576

[TTimmy]

Tim, Everything is coming along nicely! Sorry to hear your shoulder will be slowing your progress. I had surgery during my build and spent my recovery time working on wiring harness mods and other small tasks. Good luck!

Here’s another option for securing the trans tunnel cover. It’s designed to hold the windshields onto golf carts. I used a couple of ~4-5” lengths that I riveted to the cover. I was worried the Velcro would pull off one surface or the other… probably would not have been an issue. Over 6000 miles on the car and I have never had to take the cover off yet.

https://a.co/d/eofnbuk

[burchfieldb]

Looking really nice! Talk with your PT or OT after surgery. After I had a couple of surgeries they allowed me to work on building my engine as part of my exercises. They told me not to do both or I would over do it and that the exercises were designed to get you up and doing things.

[PNWTim]

Thanks for the feedback on the tank. I contacted Fluidyne and they assured me this would work as an expansion/degas tank. I was planning on running that barb on the neck to the radiator which as I understand it, is functioning as a return line to vent or prevent excess air in the system. If pressure builds above the PSI of the cap it will return the coolant to the radiator. I don't know that it matters if it is on the pressurized side of the tank or not since it can't go anywhere but the radiator and there is a check valve in the line.

I readily admit, I have a somewhat limited understanding of how this operates but I have seen builds where they eliminate the degas tank altogether and simply use an overflow tank. It is not recommended to eliminate the steam lines so my plan was to have the primary inlet be on the bottom of the and the primary return on the side of the tank.

Either way, like you, I am committed and we'll see what happens. I can always change it down the road if it turns out it's not functional or causing cooling issues.

[PNWTim]

Tim, Everything is coming along nicely! Sorry to hear your shoulder will be slowing your progress. I had surgery during my build and spent my recovery time working on wiring harness mods and other small tasks. Good luck!

Here’s another option for securing the trans tunnel cover. It’s designed to hold the windshields onto golf carts. I used a couple of ~4-5” lengths that I riveted to the cover. I was worried the Velcro would pull off one surface or the other… probably would not have been an issue. Over 6000 miles on the car and I have never had to take the cover off yet.

https://a.co/d/eofnbuk

Thanks! Funny you should say that. My plan is to shorten my harness during my rehab. I think it's going to be quite a bit of work and a good project for the 6 weeks while in the sling.

I am pretty familiar with that channel as I have spent a bit of time on the tracks in my day. Great idea.

[PNWTim]

Thanks Brent, slowly but surely. Great tip on the PT idea, we'll see what they say.

[PNWTim]

Today I permanently mounted my firewall and some of the ancillary items mounted to it. I think most of this is pretty standard stuff. As I mentioned before, I did decide to mount my PCM in a different location than most. I have drilled but not mounted my wiper assembly after moving it inboard an inch and half. I also lined the inboard side with my double layer of killmat and Thermozite.

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[JimStone]

I'm really digging the white engine bay panels with the other black items accenting. Looks super clean

Best of luck with the surgery

[PNWTim]

I'm really digging the white engine bay panels with the other black items accenting. Looks super clean

Best of luck with the surgery

Thanks Jim. I always had this "Gentleman's Racecar" idea in the back of my head and the white engine bay was part of it. Hopefully I don't regret the amount of cleaning necessary to keep it looking good.

[PNWTim]

I don't know if this is really post-worthy but it was a little stressful so I'm doing it. For some reason, I don't feel concerned about chopping up the harness, but removing the manifold to put my lifting plate on was nerve-racking. Today marked my one-year anniversary, so I thought I would push the pile a little further forward by getting ready to install the driveline. For what it's worth, I also purchased the lifting bars, but in my opinion, they are not worth fussing with. They hold the engine in an undesirable angle and frankly make the entire process harder than it needs to be. You can see they are still installed but they will be coming off tomorrow. A couple of pics:

Plate installed.
222549

Parts on the bench.

222550

[TTimmy]

With everything apart you might as well just throw a supercharger on top. I mean, you’re halfway there!

[burchfieldb]

With everything apart you might as well just throw a supercharger on top. I mean, you’re halfway there!

I second that plan!

[PNWTim]

You guys are bad. I know there is an unwritten rule that one of the primary purposes of the forum is to help other initiates spend their money but come on!

But just in case I did find this little gem:

https://lmr.com/item/M6066M8800/ford-performance-mustang-supercharger-kit-2024-5-0?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22274459221&gbraid=0AAAAAD62FUzUKdpO21aYjzzLnGGAIwv7a&gclid=Cj0KCQiAi9rJBhCYARIsALyPDtsidtmeuMymMSjXIKIE IaFp_03F_UMxuomutSqppt0dAAW5sakHC9kaAsMyEALw_wcB

[burchfieldb]

You guys are bad. I know there is an unwritten rule that one of the primary purposes of the forum is to help other initiates spend their money but come on!

But just in case I did find this little gem:

https://lmr.com/item/M6066M8800/ford-performance-mustang-supercharger-kit-2024-5-0?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22274459221&gbraid=0AAAAAD62FUzUKdpO21aYjzzLnGGAIwv7a&gclid=Cj0KCQiAi9rJBhCYARIsALyPDtsidtmeuMymMSjXIKIE IaFp_03F_UMxuomutSqppt0dAAW5sakHC9kaAsMyEALw_wcB

Looks like a great idea! Just in time for Christmas.

[Lugnut Mark]

Hey Tim … I see where you have your control pack wire harness going thru the firewall but what about the chassis harness? Have you drilled for it to go thru the firewall in a different location ? The reason I ask is because it’s supposed to go to the starter I believe ……..I may be wrong haven’t read that far along in the instructions yet but I am curious

[PNWTim]

Hey Tim … I see where you have your control pack wire harness going thru the firewall but what about the chassis harness? Have you drilled for it to go thru the firewall in a different location ? The reason I ask is because it’s supposed to go to the starter I believe ……..I may be wrong haven’t read that far along in the instructions yet but I am curious

Hi Mark - I'm not sure I am understanding your question correctly. The only items that need to go to the starter will run down through the top of the tunnel and along the frame rail (which I haven't done yet). That's primarily the starter trigger and the actual #4 cable. Those terminate at the cutoff switch in the cockpit. There is also a starter wire on the PDB harness which I need to dig into and determine it's purpose. I believe it needs to go to the starter as well but it is already on the engine side of the firewall. The only other wires that will need to enter the cockpit that I am aware are the leads for my Speedhut gauges from the sending unit. I will probably run those through a cable gland next to the PDB. Hopefully I answered your question.

[edwardb]

There is also a starter wire on the PDB harness which I need to dig into and determine it's purpose. I believe it needs to go to the starter as well but it is already on the engine side of the firewall.

That wire goes to the small terminal on the starter and replaces the RF blue start wire. That's assuming you want the Coyote setup to control the starter. Which most including me do.

[PNWTim]

That wire goes to the small terminal on the starter and replaces the RF blue start wire. That's assuming you want the Coyote setup to control the starter. Which most including me do.

Thanks Paul. I was kind of thinking that was the case. And yes, I am planning on having the PCM control the start function. I find some of the directions in the F5 Coyote Installation and the RF instructions to be a bit confusing. I sometimes need to have it all in front of me at the same time so I can break it down into "modules", so to speak, and back into answers through a process of elimination. I am assuming the starter cable that came with my Ford Racing starter is one of those. The #4 cable came wrapped in convolute and Ford tape with another orange wire with it. I am guessing this is an unneeded trigger wire as well (perhaps for a Mustang or F-150 application)? I can't figure out what else it can be in our application.

[PNWTim]

I thought I would make a quick post on my one year delivery anniversary. First and foremost, this is as great an adventure as I guessed it would be. It's fun, creative, exciting, frustrating and gratifying - sometimes all in the same day. Here are a few quick observations I have made that may or may not help other first time builders or those thinking about it in the near future:

1. The kit is quite thorough, moreso than I thought or assumed. Although I have a relatively large box of parts, bits and pieces I am not going to use, that is by choice, not necessity. I am pretty certain other than the big parts (engine and tranny) one can definitely build a complete car from what is provided.
2. Unless you have built a F5 kit previously, don't disassemble all the boxes and assume you'll remember where everything is. I can guarantee, you won't. Having the parts in their correct boxes and being able to hunt them down via the inventory is very useful. Maybe more to me than others but if you don't build in the exact order of the manual you will need to be able to cross reference as you go.
3. I am retired and kind of assumed I would be farther along than I am after a year. But my build didn't really start until February of this year and things slowed down a lot in the summer. I am not in a hurry but I would encourage others to not be too impatient - enjoy the ride. I am actually glad I have another full winter to finalize before paint.
4. Think 10 steps ahead, or more if you can.
5. And last but not least, make it your own. There is no real "correct" way to build these cars. I would encourage new builders to read as many build threads as you can. And not just threads about your vehicle but all of them. Doesn't matter if it's a pickup, hot rod, GT40, Coupe, Roadster, Goblin or Superlite. You can gain creative ideas from all these threads and apply them to your build. Not to mention, most of them are just a good read.

That's it for now. Not going to be much to post through December while I begin my recovery but it's been a great year. I wish everyone Happy Holidays, Merry Christmas and peace in the New Year.

[JimStone]

Happy 1 year Anniversary and Merry Christmas to you too Tim!

[edwardb]

Thanks Paul. I was kind of thinking that was the case. And yes, I am planning on having the PCM control the start function. I find some of the directions in the F5 Coyote Installation and the RF instructions to be a bit confusing. I sometimes need to have it all in front of me at the same time so I can break it down into "modules", so to speak, and back into answers through a process of elimination. I am assuming the starter cable that came with my Ford Racing starter is one of those. The #4 cable came wrapped in convolute and Ford tape with another orange wire with it. I am guessing this is an unneeded trigger wire as well (perhaps for a Mustang or F-150 application)? I can't figure out what else it can be in our application.

I find the Ford Performance instructions by far the most useful. Study that first and compare everything else to that. I don't recall receiving the cable you describe with starters I've received. But you're right. Not needed.

[460.465USMC]

Great first year post, Tim. I agree with your observations, but I don't have the retired thing figured out yet...someday. :) The forum is invaluable in helping me think ahead. That's a challenge area for me on these builds, and I'd have even more WHOOPS! and redos without the forum wisdom.

Best wishes on your procedure, and a speedy recovery. Merry Christmas!

[PNWTim]

Well, it's been a bit of an unpleasant journey but I have finally received my wheels and tires. I can't do much with them at the moment but I am very happy with how they turned out. My son helped me unpack them (he unpacked them) and then I took a couple of quick pictures after he hung one on the front:

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Rears
223783

[Just 1 More]

Sorry if I missed it but, WHat are the wheel and tire specs Tim?

[PNWTim]

Hi Frank. Specs for the wheels and tires are:

Front - 18 X 10 with +14 offset. Continental Extreme Contact Force 295/30/18.
Rear - 18 X 12 with -25 offset. Continental Extreme Contact Force 315/30/18.

[460.465USMC]

Really like your wheel choice, Tim! The white and chrome really pop. Well done!

[PNWTim]

Thanks Chris. I know it's not for everyone but I looked long and hard to find what I wanted. I'm very happy with how they turned out. I pretty much stuffed about as much rubber as I could into those wheel wells and I'm looking forward to see what they look like with the body on. I think they are going to be a great accent.

[PNWTim]

Well, it's been 5 weeks to the day of my shoulder surgery. I am really antsy to get back in the shop but am very limited to what I can do. I went ahead and mounted my hub and quick release after removing the horn wiring. I made the decision to switch to a Momo wheel some time ago which will bolt right up to this setup. Since I am not using a turn signal unit with stalk the NRG hub adapter was the way to go.

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I also decided to dig into my PDB harness to begin the shortening and rearrangement of it. Just started to see how it was with my arm and not bad. I think this will be a good project to move the pile forward but not get myself in trouble with over use. My plan is peel off all of the tape, wrap and convolute so I can then route everything the way I want it to go. I will rewrap it with Techflex, heat shrink and tape as appropriate. This is about an hour's worth of work with essentially one hand. It doesn't look like much but it's a start:

224015

[JimStone]

Some progress is still progress, so keep it up! Plenty of things to do, even with one hand. Or even no hands. I spend most of my time planning out things in my head, researching, and lately asking ChatGPT a zillion questions

[PNWTim]

Dug into the wiring more today. Removed most of the wrap and convolute and determined how the routing is going to go for the main leg and the engine leg. I have also decided to flip my PCM over so the wire bundles exit downwards rather than upwards. This is requiring a new mounting setup so need to work through that. All in all, I feel pretty good about what it's going to take to button this up. Just a quick photo showing the gist of what I'm doing.

224090

[Papa]

Looking very well thought out, Tim. I hope to get my engine order placed by the end of February. I'm not excited about trying to figure out all the placement and routing of the electronics. Almost makes me want to skip the control pack and just use a Holley Terminator, but deep down I know the OE stuff is much better.

[PNWTim]

Looking very well thought out, Tim. I hope to get my engine order placed by the end of February. I'm not excited about trying to figure out all the placement and routing of the electronics. Almost makes me want to skip the control pack and just use a Holley Terminator, but deep down I know the OE stuff is much better.

Thanks Dave. I am a firm believer that OEM is normally the way to go. I used it with my last build and like this one, it takes a little adjustment to get it the way I want but that's OK. It is a little nerve wracking because I don't pretend to know these systems inside and out. I simply take one wire at a time and then move on to the next. Hopefully this will alleviate the dreaded "non-start".

[460.465USMC]

Dug into the wiring more today. Removed most of the wrap and convolute and determined how the routing is going to go for the main leg and the engine leg. I have also decided to flip my PCM over so the wire bundles exit downwards rather than upwards. This is requiring a new mounting setup so need to work through that. All in all, I feel pretty good about what it's going to take to button this up. Just a quick photo showing the gist of what I'm doing.

Good progress, Tim. Especially with one arm tied behind your back! It's a tedious task, not to mention the harness shortening you're doing. But I agree, it's worth it to unwrap and reroute for better cable management, and a cleaner install. I'm glad it's only required once during the build.

[PNWTim]

I finally made a bit of meaningful progress over the last week or so. I cut out almost 3' of the main PDB harness (that's the big loop of wire you see to left in the first picture) and have it buttoned up. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out but it was a bit of chore. Thirty eight wires required shortening and splicing. There was a very large gang ground in the middle of the harness I had to work out as well.

Also, you can see the engine extension harness coiled up around the fuse block. This harness feeds the MAF, Alternator and two other sensors on the DS and will need about three feet removed. I am going to wait until I install the engine so I can make them as accurate as possible. A couple of photos to share:

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I have also embarked on a side project. I have a very definite idea of what I want for the interior and in my area it's pretty difficult to find an custom automotive upholstery guy that is not booked out 24 months so I am going to embark on a self-taught program. I am looking to re-cover my seats, make custom door cards and stitch up custom carpet. I shopped for a used machine for about a month and settled on this Consew 226r-2. It will do everything I need it to do and then some so wish me luck.

225147

[edwardb]

Congrats on your modifications to the Coyote harness. You probably saw on my Mk5 build I placed the components so that portion of the harness will remain unchanged on mine. On the firewall side I'm still undecided. I can probably make if fit but it won't be pretty. You've inspired me to maybe dig into it. I think fewer wires than on the PDB -> PCM leg that you did. I've already committed to tear into the RF harness. Why not make it a clean sweep? Good luck with that sewing machine. It's cool how these builds inspire us to learn new skills.

[PNWTim]

Congrats on your modifications to the Coyote harness. You probably saw on my Mk5 build I placed the components so that portion of the harness will remain unchanged on mine. On the firewall side I'm still undecided. I can probably make if fit but it won't be pretty. You've inspired me to maybe dig into it. I think fewer wires than on the PDB -> PCM leg that you did. I've already committed to tear into the RF harness. Why not make it a clean sweep? Good luck with that sewing machine. It's cool how these builds inspire us to learn new skills.

Thanks Paul and yes, I have been following your build, as always. I enjoy wiring but this particular kind is a bit tedious and with such a short run it was difficult to stagger the splices as much as I wanted to keep it from lumping up and looking like a snake that swallowed an egg. I have pretty heavily modifed the RF harness as well, so two for two on my end.

I really enjoy learning new things (much to my wife's dismay) and upholstery is something I have had in the back of my mind for a while. I'm looking forward to the challenge but it's a little nerve wracking to deconstruct my Sparco seats in order to make patterns but what's the old saying - no guts no glory?

[JimStone]

Congrats on the sewing machine. Looks like a sturdy device. Glad I'm not the only one crazy enough to tackle the upholstery, although I'm not touching my Braum seats

The Sailrite YouTube videos are great for learning. Short and to the point.

I've only done a little bit of upholstery but I find it very enjoyable

Cheers!

[PNWTim]

Congrats on the sewing machine. Looks like a sturdy device. Glad I'm not the only one crazy enough to tackle the upholstery, although I'm not touching my Braum seats

The Sailrite YouTube videos are great for learning. Short and to the point.

I've only done a little bit of upholstery but I find it very enjoyable

Cheers!

Thanks Jim. I have watched several of those Sailrite videos, they are very informative. This project is mostly evolving due to necessity (self-created I might add) because I want something to be a certain way and I can't get someone else to do it. I'm looking forward to digging in and learning as much as I can. Of course, I couldn't leave well enough alone so I replace the large and loud clutch motor with a servo motor, found a new thread stand and cleaned up the top. Luckily my son is here for muscle as the head unit weighs about 80 lbs.

[TTimmy]

You're a brave sole taking on that harness. I was lazy and just found everything home that made the harness look nice. Maybe I tweaked a couple things - but nothing like your project!

Welding and sewing are two things that I have always wanted to become proficient with. It's frustrating being unable to attach pieces of metal or pieces of fabric. Maybe you will serve as the inspiration!

Keep up the great work on the build!

[PNWTim]

You're a brave sole taking on that harness. I was lazy and just found everything home that made the harness look nice. Maybe I tweaked a couple things - but nothing like your project!

Welding and sewing are two things that I have always wanted to become proficient with. It's frustrating being unable to attach pieces of metal or pieces of fabric. Maybe you will serve as the inspiration!

Keep up the great work on the build!

Thanks Tim. Brave or foolish, only time will tell!

It's funny you bring up welding. I finally broke down and bought a MIG welder a couple of years ago. Like you, I was frustrated with being able to do quite a few things with the exception of joining metal to metal. I am by no means even an amateur but my son and I did weld my drive shaft hoop for the coupe and I cut and re-welded the pedal bracket which did not fit when I received my kit. That was relatively gratifying.

[JTG]

Thanks Jim. I have watched several of those Sailrite videos, they are very informative. This project is mostly evolving due to necessity (self-created I might add) because I want something to be a certain way and I can't get someone else to do it. I'm looking forward to digging in and learning as much as I can. Of course, I couldn't leave well enough alone so I replace the large and loud clutch motor with a servo motor, found a new thread stand and cleaned up the top. Luckily my son is here for muscle as the head unit weighs about 80 lbs.

Between Jim tackling this with his Sailrite machine, and now you going at it too my wife and I are extremely tempted to try the same. She has a background in working with soft goods, so if we were able to get a machine I think this would all be quite possible. However like Jim, not sure I'm brave enough to tear apart new seats but I look forward to your results!

[burchfieldb]

Between Jim tackling this with his Sailrite machine, and now you going at it too my wife and I are extremely tempted to try the same. She has a background in working with soft goods, so if we were able to get a machine I think this would all be quite possible. However like Jim, not sure I'm brave enough to tear apart new seats but I look forward to your results!

If you need another nuge, I also purchased a machine to do my upholstery. You can find some nice used ones online for sale. If you are doing leather, look into the leather skiving machines. I was able to pick one up at a reasonable price from a place going out of buisness.

And if you need something else to buy, take a look at the laser welder, cutter, and cleaner. These allow you to weld steel, stainless, aluminum, and more. They are not super heavy duty but can cover a lot of things.

https://youtu.be/_JgLokBW5eI?si=nlIUHdVuOiCVBsw6

[PNWTim]

That thing is pretty sweet. First time I watched an actual review. It's kind of cool it will do steel, stainless and aluminum. I watched one of Tim Welds videos and his review was pretty comprehensive. One thing he didn't mention was price and at $3500, it's not inexpensive but I am guessing this price point will drop considerably over the next few years.

[460.465USMC]

Very nice work, Tim, on your Coyote harness improvements. I played around with mine quite a bit, but nothing like what you undertook. A daunting task, no doubt. Really looks good though.

Here's a virtual high-five on your upholstery undertaking! I'm excited to see what you come up with. No doubt it will be turn out great. Top of my list is learning how to weld. The local community college offers a DIY grade class. May sign up some day (after the Coupe is built).

[JTG]

If you need another nuge, I also purchased a machine to do my upholstery. You can find some nice used ones online for sale. If you are doing leather, look into the leather skiving machines. I was able to pick one up at a reasonable price from a place going out of buisness.

And if you need something else to buy, take a look at the laser welder, cutter, and cleaner. These allow you to weld steel, stainless, aluminum, and more. They are not super heavy duty but can cover a lot of things.

https://youtu.be/_JgLokBW5eI?si=nlIUHdVuOiCVBsw6

This might be last nudge I need to pulling the trigger on an industrial sewing machine :rolleyes: My wife is all-in on the idea, so now it's a matter of either finding a good used machine or finding the budget for a new Sailrite. We're currently building a bouldering / climbing cave in our basement, and next up is making the crash pads which would also benefit from an industrial sewing machine. We're not having a hard time justifying this purchase!

As it has been mentioned before, we all do a fantastic job of spending each others money!! No complaints on my part, I love having more tools at my disposal.

As for that laser, welder, cutter, and cleaner?... Exceptionally cool, but harder to justify since we already have a TIG welder, and I have access to a CNC laser at work.

[Papa]

This might be last nudge I need to pulling the trigger on an industrial sewing machine :rolleyes: My wife is all-in on the idea, so now it's a matter of either finding a good used machine or finding the budget for a new Sailrite. We're currently building a bouldering / climbing cave in our basement, and next up is making the crash pads which would also benefit from an industrial sewing machine. We're not having a hard time justifying this purchase!

As it has been mentioned before, we all do a fantastic job of spending each others money!! No complaints on my part, I love having more tools at my disposal.

As for that laser, welder, cutter, and cleaner?... Exceptionally cool, but harder to justify since we already have a TIG welder, and I have access to a CNC laser at work.

I have the opportunity to buy this machine for $250, but I don't know if I want it or not. It's big and heavy and from what I'm finding on-line, can be difficult to find parts or have it worked on.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225277&d=1770476074

[burchfieldb]

This might be last nudge I need to pulling the trigger on an industrial sewing machine :rolleyes: My wife is all-in on the idea, so now it's a matter of either finding a good used machine or finding the budget for a new Sailrite. We're currently building a bouldering / climbing cave in our basement, and next up is making the crash pads which would also benefit from an industrial sewing machine. We're not having a hard time justifying this purchase!

As it has been mentioned before, we all do a fantastic job of spending each others money!! No complaints on my part, I love having more tools at my disposal.

As for that laser, welder, cutter, and cleaner?... Exceptionally cool, but harder to justify since we already have a TIG welder, and I have access to a CNC laser at work.

Yeah, that would make it hard to justify. I have access to mig and tig at the office but it makes it hard to work on things at home. I have the same reasoning for a CNC mill.

[burchfieldb]

I have the opportunity to buy this machine for $250, but I don't know if I want it or not. It's big and heavy and from what I'm finding on-line, can be difficult to find parts or have it worked on.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225277&d=1770476074

The big amd heavy is pretty standard for industrial sewing machines. We have a bunch at the office and it is hard to find service for them as well. Does it have a servo motor?

[Papa]

The big amd heavy is pretty standard for industrial sewing machines. We have a bunch at the office and it is hard to find service for them as well. Does it have a servo motor?

I'm not sure what the motor is ... likely whatever it originally came with.

[PNWTim]

So, here's my two cents after shopping hard and educating myself over the last two months or so. There are a handful of industrial machines that are sort of "go tos" for a lot of people. The Juki 1541, Pfaff 1545 and the Consew 206r or 226r. I ended up with the 226. I swapped out the clutch motor for a servo motor and installed a new thread stand. The Consew you pictured is probably 75 years old and built like a battleship but it probably is limited on parts. All these machines have triple feed walking feet and reverse.

Since I am a hobbyist I wanted something that would work without too much fuss, I could repair or have repaired fairly easily and do what I need it to do which is sew multiple layers of leather and cloth. This requires a walking foot machine. The servo motor helps a rookie manage needle speed as well. If you want to dive deeper, PM me and we can go down the rabbit hole. I am planning on doing a separate thread on my upholstery adventure so stay tuned.

[PNWTim]

Pretty much buttoned this up today. Nothing earth shaking to report and pretty much followed the general procedure as outlined in several builds. I did install posts on my battery which allow another connection through a threaded hole in the top. I will run two cables down from my upper posts to these so charging, etc. will be easier given the location. Otherwise, pretty standard stuff. This is a bit of a milestone for me since I can now close up the DS footbox and drop the drive train in. I have tried really hard to complete everything I could think of in and around the engine compartment with the engine out of the way.

Firewall engine side power wiring completed with the exception of the alternator and sensor harness. It looks a bit like black and red spaghetti but I'm pretty happy with the layout. I think most of it will be hidden by the cowl when the body is on. As I noted previously, I'm going to wait until the engine is in to shorten this leg and put the finishing touches like heat shrink and tape.

225325

Ran the starter power and trigger wire along with the PDB ground wire in their own loom and tucked under the main battery cable. You can just see the starter leads poking out behind the engine mount bracket.

225328

[Papa]

Pretty much buttoned this up today. Nothing earth shaking to report and pretty much followed the general procedure as outlined in several builds. I did install posts on my battery which allow another connection through a threaded hole in the top. I will run two cables down from my upper posts to these so charging, etc. will be easier given the location. Otherwise, pretty standard stuff. This is a bit of a milestone for me since I can now close up the DS footbox and drop the drive train in. I have tried really hard to complete everything I could think of in and around the engine compartment with the engine out of the way.

Firewall engine side power wiring completed with the exception of the alternator and sensor harness. It looks a bit like black and red spaghetti but I'm pretty happy with the layout. I think most of it will be hidden by the cowl when the body is on. As I noted previously, I'm going to wait until the engine is in to shorten this leg and put the finishing touches like heat shrink and tape.

225325

Ran the starter power and trigger wire along with the PDB ground wire in their own loom and tucked under the main battery cable. You can just see the starter leads poking out behind the engine mount bracket.

225328

Looking really good, Tim. I'm hoping to order my engine package soon, but I'm not looking forward to the wiring and routing puzzle for the Coyote.

Dave

[PNWTim]

Thanks Dave. Puzzle is definitely the right word. There are lots of ways to do it, some of them much simpler. Whatever path one chooses, there is just a lot wire to deal with that isn't really meant to be in our Type 65 space. I'm sure it fits great in a Mustang though...:p. You can always just order the PDB kit and pick up the Coyote later if you were so inclined.

[Papa]

I'm going with the Factory Five AT package, so it will come as a complete package. I'm not sure what their lead time 8s right now.

[Lugnut Mark]

Hey Tim just a couple of quick tips before you drop your engine … leave your alternator off until after your engine is in (for clearance purposes) and before you install your alternator install your drivers side header otherwise you’ll have very limited space to install later see photos 225336225337225338
I’m doing my install a little differently than yours I opted to install engine first then place wiring in so I wouldn’t have any clearance issues225339225340225341

[Sharris2]

I'm going g the same route; I'd be interested I what there timeliness are as well?
Scott

[PNWTim]

Hey Tim just a couple of quick tips before you drop your engine … leave your alternator off until after your engine is in (for clearance purposes) and before you install your alternator install your drivers side header otherwise you’ll have very limited space to install later see photos 225336225337225338
I’m doing my install a little differently than yours I opted to install engine first then place wiring in so I wouldn’t have any clearance issues225339225340225341

Thanks for the tip Mark. I read this note in your thread previously. I always thought it was possible to fully dress the engine prior to installation but it sounds like the juice maker is in the way now. Not difficult to add back in after though.

[Papa]

Tim,

Looking more closely at your battery cable picture, what is bracket in the front-passenger frame area near where the radiator top hose will go? I don't recall seeing anything like that in my parts, but I may have missed it.

225328

Dave

[PNWTim]

Tim,

Looking more closely at your battery cable picture, what is bracket in the front-passenger frame area near where the radiator top hose will go? I don't recall seeing anything like that in my parts, but I may have missed it.

225328

Dave

That is my super duper custom remote battery terminal bracket. That bracket comes with the kit and is meant to be used to mount the PDB fuse block. I knew I wasn't going to use it and I also knew I wanted remote access to my battery for a trickle charge, jump if needed, etc. Since I put my overflow tank in the DS triangular space my need for symmetry was met by modifying this bracket for the PS space. It worked out pretty well and obviously, the two empty holes are for the studs. I cut the corners off to match the angles of the tubes and drilled through the one tube to bolt it up.

I was originally going to use something like this as it is more discreet:

https://www.rosenberger.com/product/magcode/

but I decided it was a little too fiddly, wasn't sure where I could mount it and then realized I could repurpose something I had. Here is a picture from earlier in my thread where I was test fitting it:

225368

[Papa]

That is my super duper custom remote battery terminal bracket. That bracket comes with the kit and is meant to be used to mount the PDB fuse block. I knew I wasn't going to use it and I also knew I wanted remote access to my battery for a trickle charge, jump if needed, etc. Since I put my overflow tank in the DS triangular space my need for symmetry was met by modifying this bracket for the PS space. It worked out pretty well and obviously, the two empty holes are for the studs. I cut the corners off to match the angles of the tubes and drilled through the one tube to bolt it up.

I was originally going to use something like this as it is more discreet:

https://www.rosenberger.com/product/magcode/

but I decided it was a little too fiddly, wasn't sure where I could mount it and then realized I could repurpose something I had. Here is a picture from earlier in my thread where I was test fitting it:

225368

Thanks, Tim. I was a bit worried I'd missed something that would require modifying the panels I got from Brent. I like the idea of having remote battery terminals. I added a charging plug on my Cobra and will likely do the same on the Coupe, but haven't given it any real thought yet.

Dave

[Power Surge]

Love the details on your build Tim. Everything looks awesome!

[PNWTim]

Now that I have buttoned up the engine side of things I am going all in on the cockpit side of the firewall wiring. As I dig deeper and start laying things out I keep bumping into items spread across the three installation manuals - F5 Chassis Wiring Harness, Ford Control Pack Installation and the F5 Coyote Installation Manual.

I have several questions about integrating the RF harness with the Coyote harness. Some are related to what appear to be redundant circuits, and some are just those I can’t seem to wrap my head around. I am hoping some of you who have gone through this process can shed a little light. I am pretty comfortable with wiring but the directions provided are throwing me a curve ball. So here goes:



Fan circuit. F5 instructions state to connect the RF blue fan wire to the Coyote PDB orange wire if I plan to use the engine fan control. I am assuming they mean the engine computer fan control. With that said, why use the RF wire at all? The PDB box has a power wire for the fan (orange), an associated relay to power the fan, and to me, connecting that blue wire seems totally extraneous and unnecessary. I am also using a PWM fan controller, so I don’t need the fan thermostat wire either.
Ignition wiring. Specifically, the blue trigger wire. I am going with the “Setup A” wiring schematic from the PDB instructions. I am using an ignition key switch with a separate push-button start. Is it still necessary to connect the blue trigger wire from the RF harness? Again, seems redundant since its only function is to tell the starter solenoid to engage. Maybe I am missing something.
RF harness power. I am pulling power off the ignition side of my cutoff switch to a bus bar. My intention is to then connect the necessary RF hot wires, which would normally go to the starter solenoid. There are three called out – Battery Feed, Alternator Feed and Ignition Switch to Solenoid. When I trace these back it looks like the Battery Feed powers the RF fuse panel, the Alternator feed should be coming from the alternator and the Ignition Switch feed powers the Bat + side of the ignition switch. Does this sound correct?
Alternator Feed – my Coyote harness has a plug for the alternator built into the PDB harness. The Ford instructions indicate simply connecting C102A, and that’s it. Page 92 of the F5 Coyote installation calls out installing the “Chassis Harness Alternator Red Wire” to the alternator post. Aside from the stubby one in the main harness I mentioned in question 3 above, there is no engine-side heavy-gauge alternator wire in the RF harness that will come close to reaching the alternator. Do I simply connect a 6 or 8 gauge wire to the HAAT side of my cutoff switch and run it out to the alternator? Seems simple enough but that’s what worries me. What am I missing?


Thanks in advance.

[edwardb]

I'll take a shot at it:

1. Assuming you want the Coyote to control the cooling fan, which most do, agreed the cooling fan power wire and thermo wires in the RF harness are not used. The fan wire in the control pack can go directly to the cooling fan. The PWM controller would go in that wire. Side note -- your choice, but I haven't found another controller necessary. Had one in my 20th Anniversary Roadster, but haven't used one since. Builder's choice, right?

2. I'm a little lost in your description, but simply the Coyote system needs +12V on the Starter Motor Request (SMR) wire to signal the PCM to spin the starter. I connect this wire to the RF blue start wire off the ignition switch and remove the rest of the blue wires in the RF harness including the ones used for a clutch safety switch. However you make that happen with your pushbutton start is up to you. Just get +12V on the SMR wire when you want it to start.

3. What you describe is correct. I do essentially the same thing. There is an long alternator leg in the harness that is intended to go to the post on the alternator. I've used that in the past. For my Mk5 build, FWIW, I removed the alternator wire completely from the RF harness. The one in the starter solenoid group and the longer leg intended to go to the alternator. I'm going to run a single line from the master disconnect to the alternator. Many upsize that cable and that's what I'm going to do as well. I think the RF harness is 8 gauge. A little light maybe for the Coyote alternator. I'm going with 6 gauge, Same as I have on my Coupe. Some go to 4 gauge.

4. I think answered in #3 since they were related.

Hope that helps. I doing all these exact hookups on my Mk5 right now.

[PNWTim]

I'll take a shot at it:

1. Assuming you want the Coyote to control the cooling fan, which most do, agreed the cooling fan power wire and thermo wires in the RF harness are not used. The fan wire in the control pack can go directly to the cooling fan. The PWM controller would go in that wire. Side note -- your choice, but I haven't found another controller necessary. Had one in my 20th Anniversary Roadster, but haven't used one since. Builder's choice, right?

2. I'm a little lost in your description, but simply the Coyote system needs +12V on the Starter Motor Request (SMR) wire to signal the PCM to spin the starter. I connect this wire to the RF blue start wire off the ignition switch and remove the rest of the blue wires in the RF harness including the ones used for a clutch safety switch. However you make that happen with your pushbutton start is up to you. Just get +12V on the SMR wire when you want it to start.

3. What you describe is correct. I do essentially the same thing. There is an long alternator leg in the harness that is intended to go to the post on the alternator. I've used that in the past. For my Mk5 build, FWIW, I removed the alternator wire completely from the RF harness. The one in the starter solenoid group and the longer leg intended to go to the alternator. I'm going to run a single line from the master disconnect to the alternator. Many upsize that cable and that's what I'm going to do as well. I think the RF harness is 8 gauge. A little light maybe for the Coyote alternator. I'm going with 6 gauge, Same as I have on my Coupe. Some go to 4 gauge.

4. I think answered in #3 since they were related.

Hope that helps. I doing all these exact hookups on my Mk5 right now.

Thanks Paul, I was hoping you would respond. This helps alot and at least I wasn't staring at the sun too long.

I know the ignition question was a little confusing. Where I was going is this - there is the blue SMR wire out of the PDB harness that ultimately ends up in what I call the "green wire bundle" that's used to power the fuel pump and ignition. That's where I was going. If I use that blue SMR wire, isn't the RF wire redundant? This is the diagram from the Ford Manual:

225471

Based on this I am thinking I don't need the RF trigger wire? Thanks again.

[edwardb]

As long as you're getting +12V on the ignition trigger wire to wake up the system and the SMR wire to spin the starter it will work. However it's wired. I've always used the blue start wire that's part of the RF harness coming off the ignition switch. it's an easy splice to the Coyote SMR wire. Same as using the RF EFI wire for the ignition trigger wire. But wiring the Coyote wires directly to switches as in the diagram certainly does the same thing.

[PNWTim]

OK, thanks. I started to second guess things because that's what I do. Having parallel capabilities in both harnesses threw me a curve ball until you clarified. It makes sense knowing the RF harness is one size fits most. There is actually quite a bit of "off book" integration or de-integration that can occur if one chooses.

[PNWTim]

With some clarification from forum members I am all in on the cockpit side of wiring. I have stripped off all the convolute and dieted out much of the wiring. This includes some redundant fan wiring, redundant power wiring, all of the sending unit wiring and some other odds and ends. Once the convolute is removed and the wiring cleaned up it's much easier to work with. I also replaced the front harness connectors with Deutsch fittings and tidied up the routing of the last leg of the PDB harness.

Just diving into it:

225592

And several hours later. This photo also shows how I will use the upper console to mount associated electronics. I currently have two circuit breakers, Bat+ buss bar, Bat- busbar and the CC module. I am also going to mount a 12v to 5v DC voltage converter to operate a Magsafe charger so it can be hardwired to the 12v electrical system rather than plugging into a USB-C somewhere.

Other than that I don't believe I need any additional relays (although I bought 4 or 5 of them) since all my lights are LED. My Retrobright headlights draw a total of 5.56 A on high beam. I am sure the rear lights are less and the driving lights somewhere in between. Between the PDB and RF fuse boxes I have relays for the fuel pump, the fan, the horn and the computer. This is a relatively simple build without a lot of heavy electronics so I think I am good to go unless I add something like power windows.

225593

I also fabricated a harness for my alternator feed and to house the oil pressure and water temperature cables for my SpeedHut gauges.

225594

And used some split loom and heat shrink to protect the throttle pedal wiring harness for the cruise control module. This essentially plugs into the throttle bracket and then the Coyote harness plugs into it. The cable then feeds to the center section where the CC module resides.

225595

[Papa]

Tim,

I keep telling myself that I should just leave the harnesses alone, but considering how much of what's going to be left unused, I keep digging deeper and deeper. I'm definitely sold on the Deutsch solid contact system.

Dave

[edwardb]

Looks very familiar. :p Nice work. Going through those exact steps with my Mk5 build right now. I like what you did with the cruise control cable. I think I'll copy that. Agreed the RF harness is a lot easier to work with once you take it apart and customize. I haven't tried Deutsch connectors yet. For the front and rear harnesses, I'm not going to have any connectors. Cutting them out and going to splice them to the main harness. I don't envision a need to take them apart once installed (and working :rolleyes:) and saves valuable space. Will have some updates on my build thread soon that look similar.

[PNWTim]

Tim,

I keep telling myself that I should just leave the harnesses alone, but considering how much of what's going to be left unused, I keep digging deeper and deeper. I'm definitely sold on the Deutsch solid contact system.

Dave

If you're comfortable with wiring I would definitely open up the RF harness. There is a lot there that you don't need and it also allows you to route most of it any way you want, rather than the way it comes and making do. Yeah, the Deutsch connectors are so easy and straightforward. I used the barrel crimper for the first time yesterday and it is sweet.

[PNWTim]

Looks very familiar. :p Nice work. Going through those exact steps with my Mk5 build right now. I like what you did with the cruise control cable. I think I'll copy that. Agreed the RF harness is a lot easier to work with once you take it apart and customize. I haven't tried Deutsch connectors yet. For the front and rear harnesses, I'm not going to have any connectors. Cutting them out and going to splice them to the main harness. I don't envision a need to take them apart once installed (and working :rolleyes:) and saves valuable space. Will have some updates on my build thread soon that look similar.

Thanks Paul, you provided a great template! It's funny, I almost eliminated those connectors to the front. The wires were cut and I looked at them and thought to myself, "I should just splice these together and call it good". But I couldn't leave well enough alone and had a shiny new tool to try out so there we go. I can still go direct with my rear harness so will probably do so.

Look forward to seeing your updates.

[Lugnut Mark]

Tim have you connected the green wire to the fuse box orange wire relay yet? …. This is for your fuel pump I’m guessing that we clip it close to the jumper bus on the fuse box and then connect it to the relay side to power the fuel pump is that correct then the light blue wire(smr) to light blue and then light green to orange efi wire right? ….. I’m sort of knee deep into the wiring as well !

[PNWTim]

Tim have you connected the green wire to the fuse box orange wire relay yet? …. This is for your fuel pump I’m guessing that we clip it close to the jumper bus on the fuse box and then connect it to the relay side to power the fuel pump is that correct then the light blue wire(smr) to light blue and then light green to orange efi wire right? ….. I’m sort of knee deep into the wiring as well !

Yes, that is correct. I am doing it just a little bit different by going straight to my key switch and push button start with the leads from the Coyote but the way you describe it is correct. I am going to use the green wire to the clipped orange jumper for the fuel pump but going to use the Coyote's light blue and light green wires direct to my switches rather than tie them into the RF harness.

[Lugnut Mark]

I really like how nice and neat your harness looks compared to mine …… I think I will take your advice and open up the whole thing and eliminate wires not being used and reroute everything …….as well as cut to length rather than make due with the way it is …. I just don’t like how twisted up everything looks right now ! Btw wait until you get into the transmission harness the O2 sensor wires are way to long for the passenger side then too short for the drivers side it makes no sense

[PNWTim]

I really like how nice and neat your harness looks compared to mine …… I think I will take your advice and open up the whole thing and eliminate wires not being used and reroute everything …….as well as cut to length rather than make due with the way it is …. I just don’t like how twisted up everything looks right now ! Btw wait until you get into the transmission harness the O2 sensor wires are way to long for the passenger side then too short for the drivers side it makes no sense

In all fairness, all I did was follow what Paul (edwardb) did on his coupe build 8 years ago. I think you will be happier with it if you do so. It's not nearly as unmanageable as it feels with the convolute on. I am very familiar with the transmission harness as I modified it about 2 months ago. I am guessing it fits a Mustang swap fairly well in that configuration but at least it's pretty easy to modify.

[PNWTim]

Still chipping away and making sense of everything I need to tie together. I have it pretty much worked out and will go into some of those details in a later post. For the last day or so I have simply made sure I knew where everything was going to go and discovered a couple of issues which I corrected. A word to the wise for all those diving into their wiring - make sure you understand where your dash ends land on the 1 1/2" cross tube. I had after the fact conflicts on both sides and luckily I was messing around with my dash and realized I needed to move the main harness inboard and use a riser on the heat and A/C wiring. Also, that A/C harness is a weird one. It basically doubles back on itself with the control leads poking out about 1/2 way down. I was half tempted to take it apart and see if there is a better way to manage it but decided to leave as is. I also originally wanted to run it above the evaporator between the housing and the cross bar but there just wasn't enough room so I chose to sneak it up at the corner. The wiper wiring runs through the firewall here and continues to the center of the dash with the other harness. Here's a couple of pictures:

225771

225772

I also took the opportunity to punch a couple of fittings through the lower firewall and ran my alternator wire and sending unit wiring for the water temp and oil pressure. I also mounted my windshield washer bottle and ran it's wiring into the cockpit as well. If you look closely you can also see a purple wire I ran with the pump wiring to connect to a coil pack signal wire for my tach. I am going to pull the signal off of cylinder 8.

225773

225774

I am waiting on a couple of bits and pieces so I can wrap up my cockpit wiring. Somehow I managed to purchase 30 and 40 amp circuit breakers instead of 10 and 20 amp. I also inadvertently purchased 5 wire relays instead of 4 wire so I ordered a couple of those as well. I know I can use the 5 wire, just didn't want to clutter up the clutter with another unnecessary wire.

[JTG]

Maybe I've just missed it on other builds, but I don't recall seeing windshield washer fluid in other FFR cars.
Is this something you need to pass inspection or just an addition you wanted?

[PNWTim]

Maybe I've just missed it on other builds, but I don't recall seeing windshield washer fluid in other FFR cars.
Is this something you need to pass inspection or just an addition you wanted?

Oregon has no physical vehicle inspection other than a VIN check depending on the situation, so no, not needed. I did this because while I will rarely drive in the rain (if ever) I will have wipers and I like the idea of being able to clean dust and bugs off my windshield. I originally got the idea from edwardb's build. In Michigan it's required so he installed them. I figure for $50 and a little bit of time and effort it's worth it.

Some guys I believe are using the overflow to accomplish the same thing. A little for elegant than the plastic bottle but you do have to figure out the pump bit.

[8secDuster]

Oregon has no physical vehicle inspection other than a VIN check depending on the situation, so no, not needed. I did this because while I will rarely drive in the rain (if ever) I will have wipers and I like the idea of being able to clean dust and bugs off my windshield. I originally got the idea from edwardb's build. In Michigan it's required so he installed them. I figure for $50 and a little bit of time and effort it's worth it.

Some guys I believe are using the overflow to accomplish the same thing. A little for elegant than the plastic bottle but you do have to figure out the pump bit.

Yep... required in the Great Lakes State.
I used a small fabricated aluminum tank with a universal pump motor https://www.amazon.com/SI-A0050-Windscreen-Washer-Keenso-Universal/dp/B07GN3ZT89/ref=sr_1_3_pp?crid=15SP2IAHEBZNE&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.hKAolN4XjR4aZBEuZ5qCtGMF4MHnxcU1D YCUSyfZ4E2RYgEZEd1ss6Ph6BkTthtI2Kjpj1fL4ScWN-pVKjyMbaFxVK9LDBSla4vYOxJp2iStOkzHffshK_3NhfhiqdGD BKpe0_csfY8zhQ89Zu4Sul3kHoNHdI5iRKcfeBaI46yz_aKRo8 WxMyOnEdvWSIgal3tyOF_fWYnqwacrksSqOcrJVVmpFjOY8yT8 tkTXhIw.P4dp__W_lJdOw50f1SqVWqpj6sXJ9NZ0xs4KwJ9khW c&dib_tag=se&keywords=windshield+washer+pump&qid=1771511476&sprefix=windshield+was%2Caps%2C357&sr=8-3 and a momentary toggle on my switch panel.

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[PNWTim]

Yep... required in the Great Lakes State.
I used a small fabricated aluminum tank with a universal pump motor https://www.amazon.com/SI-A0050-Windscreen-Washer-Keenso-Universal/dp/B07GN3ZT89/ref=sr_1_3_pp?crid=15SP2IAHEBZNE&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.hKAolN4XjR4aZBEuZ5qCtGMF4MHnxcU1D YCUSyfZ4E2RYgEZEd1ss6Ph6BkTthtI2Kjpj1fL4ScWN-pVKjyMbaFxVK9LDBSla4vYOxJp2iStOkzHffshK_3NhfhiqdGD BKpe0_csfY8zhQ89Zu4Sul3kHoNHdI5iRKcfeBaI46yz_aKRo8 WxMyOnEdvWSIgal3tyOF_fWYnqwacrksSqOcrJVVmpFjOY8yT8 tkTXhIw.P4dp__W_lJdOw50f1SqVWqpj6sXJ9NZ0xs4KwJ9khW c&dib_tag=se&keywords=windshield+washer+pump&qid=1771511476&sprefix=windshield+was%2Caps%2C357&sr=8-3 and a momentary toggle on my switch panel.

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I am curious if you have actually tested out the squirters? I have heard some are a bit erratic.

[8secDuster]

I am curious if you have actually tested out the squirters? I have heard some are a bit erratic.

I have not. Just installed them and need smaller vacuum hose to complete.
It's at the bottom of the To Do list, but curious now

[PNWTim]

This is a small update but I was excited it worked and wanted to share. I am not a fan of cords and plug-ins and all the other clutter it seems like our lives are full of these days. Several months ago I started investigating hard wiring a MagSafe charger into a 12v automotive system. Most of the search returns have a sentence in them along the lines of "plug in the USB-C cable and...". I finally determined these chargers typically operate on 5v so there is no direct connection available. Enter the DC to DC converter. This little unit takes up to 20v and steps it down to 5v. To test and determine if any of the magic smoke was going to escape, I cobbled it together with my power station and low and behold, the little lightening bolt showed up on my phone and there was no melting, sparking or other unpleasantness.

My plan is to drill a hole just a few thousandths larger than the disc and bond it in place with something (probably silicone adhesive or the like) on the underside and upholster over the top side. I may also trap it in place with a bracket and rubber backing which would allow me to remove it easily if necessary. I will probably mount it on the angled center section I purchased from Snakebite. This will solve three issues: 1. No cord; 2. No phone sliding around and ending up under my seat or feet, take your pick; And 3. A charged phone with visual access. More to come on this particular project.

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[jemorgan3]

This is a small update but I was excited it worked and wanted to share. I am not a fan of cords and plug-ins and all the other clutter it seems like our lives are full of these days. Several months ago I started investigating hard wiring a MagSafe charger into a 12v automotive system. Most of the search returns have a sentence in them along the lines of "plug in the USB-C cable and...". I finally determined these chargers typically operate on 5v so there is no direct connection available. Enter the DC to DC converter. This little unit takes up to 20v and steps it down to 5v. To test and determine if any of the magic smoke was going to escape, I cobbled it together with my power station and low and behold, the little lightening bolt showed up on my phone and there was no melting, sparking or other unpleasantness.

My plan is to drill a hole just a few thousandths larger than the disc and bond it in place with something (probably silicone adhesive or the like) on the underside and upholster over the top side. I may also trap it in place with a bracket and rubber backing which would allow me to remove it easily if necessary. I will probably mount it on the angled center section I purchased from Snakebite. This will solve three issues: 1. No cord; 2. No phone sliding around and ending up under my seat or feet, take your pick; And 3. A charged phone with visual access. More to come on this particular project.

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Ive been a fan of QuadLock phone cases for years, they make cases and mounts for nearly every application and feature magnetic charging. I have a turnlock case on my phone that is compatible with the quadlock charging/locking mount on the handle bars of the ducati, a mountain bike and the magentic charging base in the expedition. Having a cable free, secure place to put my phone is key!!
Looking forward to seeing how you mount that up!

[PNWTim]

It's been awhile since my last post. I was a little distracted installing another mini-split for my woodshop (which is where I want to sew my upholstery) so that took a bit. I have mostly finished up my wiring with only some final routing to do. I dropped off my last three pieces of aluminum to the powder coater and once returned I will be able to wrap up all the dash wiring. As a final dieting move, I took the cat o' nine tails, also known as the dash harness and gave it the full keto treatment. I essentially broke the harness apart, depinned every wire I wasn't going to use and put it somewhat back together. i think I removed half of the wiring. Here's a before and after:

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I think it's important to note - if you are using Speedhut gauges, there are a significant number of wires in this harness which are not used. Daisy chained grounds, lighting circuits, sending units, etc. I didn't want to leave them in there so this is what you're left with.

I also finished my almost final mounting of my wiper motor sans grease and cable. Can't do the latter portions without the body on. I sort of did what others have done but rather than use or make a separate mounting bracket I used what was already there. I purchased some vibration dampeners (because that's what you do, right?) but instead of attaching them to a separate bracket, I attached them directly to the housing with coupling nuts. I guess I should mention I purchased double post dampeners, so one post through the firewall and one through the wiper housing. I then fastened coupling nuts and attached the motor and front of the housing with small screws into the coupling nuts. Frankly, it worked out pretty slick.

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Since I am going "full on" toggle switch with my dash I also had to do a little research on the world wide web to figure out how to incorporate this 1964 Jaguar wiper switch with the wiring from the Specialty Power Windows wiper unit. This was an interesting challenge and started with me trying to test the motor just with my power supply. Apparently, you can't just hook up power and ground to get the motor to park position. I finally called them because my suspicion was the park wire needed to be invited to the party. This is correct. For those of you that haven't gone down this rabbit hole yet, just know, to set your motor to park before you put the indexed wheel on, you must be smarter than me or use the switch. With that figured out, I reviewed some old Jag schematics and what do you know, wiper motor technology hasn't changed a hell of a lot in the last 60 years. Figured out the correct terminals to use and was in business. Oddly enough though, the switch was essentially upside down. I may have accidentally placed the new handle on incorrectly or the switch was wonky but either way, I heated the handle up a bit, popped it off the switch shaft, reversed it and we're off to the races.

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[460.465USMC]

That's a slick mounting setup, Tim. Nice work! I mounted my motor, but now rethinking it a bit. It would probably wiser of me to make it removable (from the front) in case maintenance is needed. Do you think rivet nuts (AKA nut serts) would work? I'm thinking of adding ~1/4" thick slices of hose as vibration dampeners between the rivet nuts and the motor housing. Thoughts?

[PNWTim]

That's a slick mounting setup, Tim. Nice work! I mounted my motor, but now rethinking it a bit. It would probably wiser of me to make it removable (from the front) in case maintenance is needed. Do you think rivet nuts (AKA nut serts) would work? I'm thinking of adding ~1/4" thick slices of hose as vibration dampeners between the rivet nuts and the motor housing. Thoughts?

Thanks Chris. Thinking about your question my response is "I'm not sure". I say that because I don't know how much the motor torques against the housing when it's actually running with the tubes, drive wire and wipers connected. I think the challenge is you have to use relatively small rivet nuts in .040 aluminum. And the motor is heavy enough on my install that it bows the firewall forward a bit. I do think given it's location the nuts on the inside of the firewall could be accessible. You'd have to push the AC hoses out of the way but I think it could be done.

While I was fiddling around with this I was thinking to myself, what are the odds of ever having to remove the wiper motor and the response was "virtually zero". I know it's good practice to make items serviceable but in this instance I'm not sure how critical it is. With that said, the motor is very quiet and smooth so I'm not sure any vibration damping is even necessary. Probably not the clearest response but I think Paul is probably the only one on the forum that has used his wipers and can provide feedback.

[PNWTim]

In preparation for the engine and transmission installation, I needed to set my car down (first time on her shoes) and raised both the front and back ends using cribbing I had put together for a previous project. I have the back end 4 or 5 inches higher than the front, which is only high enough to allow the legs of my hoist to slide under.

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I then proceeded to install the bellhousing backer plate. I also remembered to stick the sensor ring on prior which I had removed about 3 months ago. Reading @Blitzboy's trials with this I made sure to keep it handy as it is something I would forget.

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Then popped on the clutch and pressure plate. I had a moment of panic when I realized I had 3 bolts left over but realized after a quick search that was normal. There are both 6 and 9 bolt pressure plates out there and the bolt kit is one box does all. I also had to put a few wraps of tape on the nose of my clutch installation tool as the I.D. of the bearing was slightly larger than my tool. It fit the clutch disc perfectly, just not the thrust bearing. Pretty sure I have the disc well centered (I will know for sure tomorrow).

I did have one question though. In past installation posts I have seen guys torquing these pressure plates to something like 46 ft lbs then 60 degrees. My information says 12 - 24 ft lbs and that's it. Is this a change from Gen 3 to Gen 4? If you download the Coyote torque spec from Summit Racing it has the higher number but I think it might be old data. Going to call Ford Racing tomorrow and double check but their installation sheet calls out the lower number as well.

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And then final installation of the QT bellhousing. Sharp eyed viewers will note there are some bolts missing from the perimeter which hold the scattershield to the blocking plate. There are at least two bolts which for any number of reasons can't be used on the Coyote. I simply chose to leave them off as they probably have little to no bearing on my application. One of them has a large boss in the way so no chance of installing it whether I wanted to or not.
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Tomorrow is transmission bolt up and engine installation. I put off installing the engine as long as I possibly could to allow for movement in the engine compartment and haven't regretted it but it's time. There are about 18 things on the white board I can't move forward on because the drive train is not installed. Next posts should show the powerplant in its new home.

[Papa]

Nice work, Tim. I can't wait to have my engine and transmission in the shop.

[edwardb]

You're making great progress. Huge milestone to get the engine installed. I see you have an SFI Quicktime bell housing. Must be the RM-8080. Same as my Coupe. Pretty sure this is the only option for a Coyote/T56 combination. I suspect you know this already, but it's going to hang below the frame. The attached picture is from my build. Trimmed it off which negated those bottom three mounting bolts. Perhaps affects its SFI rating but not an issue for me. Makes a similar configuration as the non-SFI versions for other combinations. Perhaps these are the bolts you say you didn't install? I don't recall having an issue with any of the remaining bolts on mine.

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[TXeverydayDad]

Exciting progress! I had no issues with any of the holes on the bell housing and the backing plate. It’s a little unclear from your post but some bolts don’t go into the Coyote but into the blocking plate and with a washer/nut on the back.

For torque specs, I normally check the expected torque for the bolt size, grade and pitch when I have conflicting information. Physics is physics. However, 60 ft lbs + 60 degrees sounds too high.

[PNWTim]

You're making great progress. Huge milestone to get the engine installed. I see you have an SFI Quicktime bell housing. Must be the RM-8080. Same as my Coupe. Pretty sure this is the only option for a Coyote/T56 combination. I suspect you know this already, but it's going to hang below the frame. The attached picture is from my build. Trimmed it off which negated those bottom three mounting bolts. Perhaps affects its SFI rating but not an issue for me. Makes a similar configuration as the non-SFI versions for other combinations. Perhaps these are the bolts you say you didn't install? I don't recall having an issue with any of the remaining bolts on mine.

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Hi Paul - thanks for the encouragement. Yep, same combo as you used in your coupe. I had previously trimmed the bellhousing quite some time ago actually so good to go there. I think that shaved off three of those bolts at the bottom. The other three are at approximately 11 and 1 and 3 o'clock when facing the bellhousing. Looking closely at your install picture, I don't think you installed them either:

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[PNWTim]

Exciting progress! I had no issues with any of the holes on the bell housing and the backing plate. It’s a little unclear from your post but some bolts don’t go into the Coyote but into the blocking plate and with a washer/nut on the back.

For torque specs, I normally check the expected torque for the bolt size, grade and pitch when I have conflicting information. Physics is physics. However, 60 ft lbs + 60 degrees sounds too high.

It is exciting! Particularly because I have somewhat hit a wall with moving so many things forward without the engine installed. I used my premier photoshop skills to show the bolts I did not install. They are specifically the backing plate to bellhousing attachment bolts. The 11 o'clock bolt was so fiddly and space restricted I made the command decision to skip it. The 1 o'clock and 3 o'clock bolts were blocked by aluminum casting bosses on the backside so those were non-starters. Since the SFI rating was toast the moment I trimmed an inch and a half off the bottom of the unit I'm not really concerned.

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[460.465USMC]

Wahoo! Congrats, Tim! Big milestone coming soon.

[edwardb]

Hi Paul - thanks for the encouragement. Yep, same combo as you used in your coupe. I had previously trimmed the bellhousing quite some time ago actually so good to go there. I think that shaved off three of those bolts at the bottom. The other three are at approximately 11 and 1 and 3 o'clock when facing the bellhousing. Looking closely at your install picture, I don't think you installed them either.

Figured you'd be all over that. But mentioned it anyway considering how much that hangs down. You're right. Looked at my pictures and I don't have bolts in those three spots either. Not sure the reason. But according to my notes assembled the bell to the engine on 11/21/2018. So I have a good excuse not to remember. :rolleyes:

[PNWTim]

Well, after a bit of investigative work I did determine the torque specs I had originally were incorrect. I found the Ford Racing tech sheet for my pressure plate and the bolt kit. These require 46 ft. lbs. with an additional 60 twist. This is done in a two step process. So, off with the bellhousing and starter, torqued the bolts appropriately and reinstalled and torqued the bellhousing and starter.

For those wondering (if anyone is) how I perform the 60 degree final tightening is like so. I use a 1/2" drive ratchet (It's longer than my 3/8" and helps me visualize) and a 12 point socket. I position the handle at either 3 or 9 o'clock i.e. parallel with the floor and then guesstimate where 2/3 of the way to 6 o'clock or noon is i.e. 5 or 11 and turn till the handle is somewhere in that vicinity. I am sure it is not terribly precise but I am probably coming in between 58 and 62 degrees with a decent amount of consistency. I have never looked but I am sure there are meters or something you can use to obtain a more precise process. I have a magnetic angle finder I could probably stick on the shaft of the ratchet and fine tune it a couple of degrees but haven't done so yet.

I now need to remove the item on top of the engine that is in the way of installation as well as pop off the alternator. Once those are off, I think I am ready to shoe horn it in there. For what it's worth, the T-56 is a beast compared to the TKO in my Camaro. I am guessing it's all of 25% larger in almost all dimensions. I'm looking forward to rowing through all 6 gears.

[flight_83]

I'd say you're good enough eyeballing the 60°. Most people out there replacing clutches in their cars aren't even picking up a torque wrench which is scary.

[PNWTim]

Amazing how quickly things can change. Went out to the shop after having a bite for lunch. I was planning on installing the transmission. And I found this:

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As near as I can tell, tracing the wet trail from the ground up, it looks (and feels) like its leaking out the top of the valve body. Just a guess but I am assuming the internals failed after having the car's weight on it for a week or so. Probably bad from the factory if I had to guess.

[Jeff Kleiner]

...For those wondering (if anyone is) how I perform the 60 degree final tightening is like so. I use a 1/2" drive ratchet (It's longer than my 3/8" and helps me visualize) and a 12 point socket. I position the handle at either 3 or 9 o'clock i.e. parallel with the floor and then guesstimate where 2/3 of the way to 6 o'clock or noon is i.e. 5 or 11 and turn till the handle is somewhere in that vicinity. I am sure it is not terribly precise but I am probably coming in between 58 and 62 degrees with a decent amount of consistency. I have never looked but I am sure there are meters or something you can use to obtain a more precise process...

Tim,
60 degrees is easy; it's just one flat on a hex head bolt. After you reach the specified torque just make a reference mark on the flex plate, flywheel or whatever that matches up to one of the points on the hex:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227273&d=1774477912

Then turn the bolt until the next hex point reaches your reference mark:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227274&d=1774477933

That's your 60 degrees!

If you contact FFR they'll help you get a warranty replacement from Koni.

Cheers,
Jeff

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[PNWTim]

That's a great tip Jeff, really easy which I like!

Yeah, I sent a note with pictures to them when I first found it. I'm sure they will make it right.

[burchfieldb]

Amazing how quickly things can change. Went out to the shop after having a bite for lunch. I was planning on installing the transmission. And I found this:

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As near as I can tell, tracing the wet trail from the ground up, it looks (and feels) like its leaking out the top of the valve body. Just a guess but I am assuming the internals failed after having the car's weight on it for a week or so. Probably bad from the factory if I had to guess.

That is a bummer! One of my front hubs decided to start leaking grease on my floor after install, not sure what was up with that. I can probably blame it on Covid since I got my car during that time.

[PNWTim]

That is a bummer! One of my front hubs decided to start leaking grease on my floor after install, not sure what was up with that. I can probably blame it on Covid since I got my car during that time.

They are sending me a new shock but still a little annoying. I guess as soon as it had some weight on it the seal gave way. I think it leaked almost 1/2 cup of oil.

[burchfieldb]

They are sending me a new shock but still a little annoying. I guess as soon as it had some weight on it the seal gave way. I think it leaked almost 1/2 cup of oil.

That is good to know since mine still has not had weight on it, I could be in the same boat as you. So far it has been the front hub and the master cylinders.

[PNWTim]

Reached a milestone today – the Coyote is home. I can’t begin to state what a great asset this forum is for all the little details one needs to pay attention to in order to shoehorn one these into fairly size-limited engine bay. Just a few details of the install:

Used my 20-year-old crane on the one-ton setting, which is the second from the longest. I thought about pushing it out to the ½ ton setting but figured it wasn’t necessary. This was almost a major oops. I can’t say enough good things about the lifting plate I purchased from Summit Racing. I rotated the hook on my lift so it was perpendicular to the installation direction. This allowed the engine to pivot very easily from the middle hole. I decided I wanted more tilt angle rather than less, as I thought it’s easier to jack up the tail shaft than it is to push down on it since I did this alone.

I followed many forum member recommendations, which I think ultimately made this 90-minute installation go smoother than it could have. I think I mentioned previously that I had uninstalled the device on top of the PS valve cover. I also removed the alternator. Both of these were recommendations from @edwardb and were necessary. I did make the mistake of not installing my Energy Suspension transmission mount, mostly because I was confused by the bolt selection that came with the mount. There are two shorter grade 8 bolts, 4 flat washers and 2 lock washers. I originally assumed these were for mounting the urethane mount to the transmission but this is incorrect. These bolts go through the chassis transmission mount into the Energy Suspension mount. I could not find the correct bolts to bolt the mount to the transmission itself so I decided this was a problem for later.
Other than this minor issue the drive train slipped right in. A little forward, a little down. Rinse and repeat. I did use a dead blow hammer to ensure my wheels on my crane were straight which made bumping it forward very easy. It’s still early in the install but the only point of interference I have noticed is this harness bracket on the front of the Coyote DS head. It definitely interferes with the drive shaft. I will probably pop it off the bolt and relocate by an inch or two. Other than this, not much else to report. I miraculously did remember to take the time to snap some progress pics. Probably more than anyone wants to look at but here they are:

Transmission installed on engine
This was a bit of a bear and a wrestling match. I broke most of the gospel rules by pulling it closed with 1/2 turns of all the bolts at the end. My son and I got it in with all but 1/2" to go but it simply refused to nestle in that last little bit. Didn't feel like it was particularly binding, just really tight. Easily pulled closed and I am pretty certain it is good to go. You can also see in this picture my Bowler reverse lockout module and wiring. This is a pretty slick little unit and is blue tooth capable for setup from your phone.

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The whole tamale awaiting installation

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Progress shots
Commentary on the stylish beach and bath towels is welcome!

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And Home

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Harness Interference Point
I hadn't heard of anyone else commenting on this but it's definitely an issue for my install. Not difficult to address but certainly not something I will leave as is.

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[JimStone]

Congratulations Tim! Big milestone

The Coyote sure does take up a lot more space than my LS, so good job fitting it in there

First start tomorrow? Jk

[PNWTim]

Congratulations Tim! Big milestone

The Coyote sure does take up a lot more space than my LS, so good job fitting it in there

First start tomorrow? Jk

Thanks Jim. Probably more than a day or two from first start. Yeah, the Coyote is a bit wide. It's interesting how Detroit engineers differ in their approaches. LS engines are essentially the same size in overall dimensions as the the original Chevy small blocks. But the Coyote took a hard left when compared to an original 289 and as near as I can tell added about a foot to the overall width.

[edwardb]

Thanks Jim. Probably more than a day or two from first start. Yeah, the Coyote is a bit wide. It's interesting how Detroit engineers differ in their approaches. LS engines are essentially the same size in overall dimensions as the the original Chevy small blocks. But the Coyote took a hard left when compared to an original 289 and as near as I can tell added about a foot to the overall width.

At the risk of stating the obvious, these two engines represent a different approach to making power. GM is making power with displacement. Ford chose to make the Coyote an air-breathing machine for power which meant 4 valves per piston, double overhead variable cams, etc. All that has to go somewhere. Ford further pushed that with turbos on nearly all their engines now. Neither is right or wrong IMO. Just different corporate philosophies.

Congrats on the installation Tim! It's a big step and feels good, right? That "device on top of the PS valve cover" is the high pressure pump for the direct injection. It's run off a cam on that side. The interference on the LH front corner is a know issue. I recall it's mentioned in the FF Coyote installation manual. Regardless, easy enough to fix. Remove the plastic piece and tie-wrap the cables to the threaded stud. Pulls is far enough away from the steering column. You probably figured that out by now.

[PNWTim]

At the risk of stating the obvious, these two engines represent a different approach to making power. GM is making power with displacement. Ford chose to make the Coyote an air-breathing machine for power which meant 4 valves per piston, double overhead variable cams, etc. All that has to go somewhere. Ford further pushed that with turbos on nearly all their engines now. Neither is right or wrong IMO. Just different corporate philosophies.

Congrats on the installation Tim! It's a big step and feels good, right? That "device on top of the PS valve cover" is the high pressure pump for the direct injection. It's run off a cam on that side. The interference on the LH front corner is a know issue. I recall it's mentioned in the FF Coyote installation manual. Regardless, easy enough to fix. Remove the plastic piece and tie-wrap the cables to the threaded stud. Pulls is far enough away from the steering column. You probably figured that out by now.

For sure Paul, I was simply comparing dimensions. Both suit their engineered purposes pretty darn well. I must have the harness thing in the manual. I've probably read it 6 or 8 times but those little things don't stick. But you're right, very easy fix compared to some other things.

[Papa]

Congratulations, Tim! I won't be at that point for a while, but I remember the feeling with my first build.

Dave

[PNWTim]

I spent the afternoon today bolting back on the injector pump, the intake manifold and connecting all the various wires which had been disconnected. I had decided to install the transmission mount and driveshaft but ran into situation which had me scratching my head. The manual calls out installing the chassis mount above the welded platforms on the frame. However, with the Energy Suspension transmission mount bolted up, the transmission will not go up enough to clear the plate. The shifter plate hits the frame member which limits any further upward travel.

Lying there looking at it, I figured OK, they haven't fixed this since Paul's build, and the plate needs to be bolted up from underneath, which will provide about 3/8" of drop. Unfortunately, the transmission plate doesn't fit within the welded area. I would need to grind the plate to squeeze it in there and there isn't much meat to start with. Unless I hear differently, I am going to get out my flap disc (on my freshly powder coated mount) and grind material until it will fit on the underside. The only other option would be a shorter Energy Suspension transmission mount. I'm all ears if anyone has a different thought on this.

[MSumners]

I spent the afternoon today bolting back on the injector pump, the intake manifold and connecting all the various wires which had been disconnected. I had decided to install the transmission mount and driveshaft but ran into situation which had me scratching my head. The manual calls out installing the chassis mount above the welded platforms on the frame. However, with the Energy Suspension transmission mount bolted up, the transmission will not go up enough to clear the plate. The shifter plate hits the frame member which limits any further upward travel.

Lying there looking at it, I figured OK, they haven't fixed this since Paul's build, and the plate needs to be bolted up from underneath, which will provide about 3/8" of drop. Unfortunately, the transmission plate doesn't fit within the welded area. I would need to grind the plate to squeeze it in there and there isn't much meat to start with. Unless I hear differently, I am going to get out my flap disc (on my freshly powder coated mount) and grind material until it will fit on the underside. The only other option would be a shorter Energy Suspension transmission mount. I'm all ears if anyone has a different thought on this.

I do recall doing the same, flipping the mount plate and trimming it to get an ideal fit.

[PNWTim]

I do recall doing the same, flipping the mount plate and trimming it to get an ideal fit.

Thanks for the confirmation. I looked to see if there are thinner ES mounts for the T56 but there are not.

[Namrups]

Big milestone Tim! One issue you might want to look at is the placement of your remote battery hookups. I believe your upper radiator hose snakes thru this same area. Not room for both.

Scott

[PNWTim]

Big milestone Tim! One issue you might want to look at is the placement of your remote battery hookups. I believe your upper radiator hose snakes thru this same area. Not room for both.

Scott

Thanks Scott and thanks for the heads up. I hadn't even thought about that. I bought the Boig's cool tubes so I guess I'll have to do a test fit. They don't hang below the angled tube so maybe there is still room? I can always move or delete them if needed.

[JimStone]

Thanks Scott and thanks for the heads up. I hadn't even thought about that. I bought the Boig's cool tubes so I guess I'll have to do a test fit. They don't hang below the angled tube so maybe there is still room? I can always move or delete them if needed.


I know I have a different engine, but I have the radiator hose and even a discharge tank in that space and it's fine. And if it doesn't hang below the frame rail, then I don't see a problem


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227689&d=1775148931

[Jphoenix]

Congrats! It's a great feeling when completing this kind of milestone - and I think this is part of why we build these cars, we just love building things - it's so nice to see it come together!!

[460.465USMC]

Congrats, sir! Appreciate the tips and reminders on the interference points, etc. Duly noted for what I hope will be 2-3 months until it's my turn. Well done!

[Blitzboy54]

Stuffed that turkey like a champ Even though you might have interference I am super jealous of your remote battery terminals. Really wish I had thought to do that too.

She looks great.

[PNWTim]

I know I have a different engine, but I have the radiator hose and even a discharge tank in that space and it's fine. And if it doesn't hang below the frame rail, then I don't see a problem


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227689&d=1775148931

I test fit the hose today and I am good to go. It basically rides right under that area and between the two posts.

[PNWTim]

Congrats! It's a great feeling when completing this kind of milestone - and I think this is part of why we build these cars, we just love building things - it's so nice to see it come together!!

It is very gratifying to make these moves. This is the ultimate Erector set!

[PNWTim]

Today I tackled the transmission mount. Like all good projects that seem simple this one turned into a serious chore. I ground down the areas of interference on my transmission crossmember and if fit perfectly. So it made sense to install the driveshaft while the transmission was free. Unfortunately, this led to me getting my aerobic and resistance training with my driveshaft. I lowered the transmission down as much as I could and could not get the driveshaft in.

One of the things about building a car like this is learning from others and trying to see 20 steps ahead. Even with that I didn't realize when the transmission is dropped it is forced to the DS. Because of this my driveshaft hoop which I had very carefully measured and welded in 4 months ago was now in the way. I could not get the driveshaft in with the vertical in the way. So, out came the cutoff wheel and out it went for now. Once clear of that obstacle I was able to slide the driveshaft in and confirmed my hoop does fit correctly but I will be bolting the cut off piece back in place so it is 100% removable without a cutoff wheel :p. Live and learn I guess.

[PNWTim]

I finally got these fabbed up. I decided long ago I wanted sliders. I wanted to mount my seats as far aft as possible and allow the sliders to adjust the seat forward to a comfortable driving position. I tried to figure out a way to mount the sliders directly to the existing pan and structure but that was a non-starter. I either couldn't catch a bolt in the pan, or I was bouncing off the side of a frame rail, or both. So I embarked on a bracket project that became a little more of a project than I thought but they turned out really well. I essentially welded up an "H" shaped bracket that I could bolt to my sliders. In order to do this I had to weld receiving nuts inside the slider half to receive bolts. I then used the smaller cross bars to allow for four bolts within the confines of the seat pan on the car. I used caged nuts for those and attached them with countersunk rivets. I had to JB Weld some 1/4" spacers between the bracket and the mounting bolts to account for the other four bolt heads which attach the bracket to the slider. You can just see the spacers peeking out from under the cross bars.

227888

And now with it mounted to the seat slider

227889

So essentially the seat will be sitting on the four bolt heads and the four round spacers. 3/8" bolts up through the floor seat pan hold the whole thing in place and it's rock solid.

[PNWTim]

So I have been focusing on getting the engine compartment finished up. This included installing the power steering lines and doing a little side to side purge. Unfortunately, I think I hit a bit of a wall. My power steering parts came with three fittings. One was a 90 degree black anodized fitting for the upper connection on the KRC pump. The other two fittings are -6 AN to 5/8" NPS or BPS, I'm not sure which. One of them will thread nicely into the top female port of the steering rack. However, the lower port appears to be 9/16" instead of 5/8"? I tried to fit my calipers in there but it's pretty tight. Visually, it might look slightly smaller, not sure. I revisited the Factory Five KRC instructions but they are still dated 2017 and not very accurate for today's equipment.

So, in a nutshell, I am not sure what to think. I believe one of the two fitting is incorrect and will call Factory Five in the morning so steering line install is on hold at the moment. These are the two identical fittings:

227895


This shows the fitting in the one hole it will fit in. The lower hole appears to be just slightly smaller.

227897


Thinking the lower port is 1/2", not 9/16".

227896

[burchfieldb]

So I have been focusing on getting the engine compartment finished up. This included installing the power steering lines and doing a little side to side purge. Unfortunately, I think I hit a bit of a wall. My power steering parts came with three fittings. One was a 90 degree black anodized fitting for the upper connection on the KRC pump. The other two fittings are -6 AN to 5/8" NPS or BPS, I'm not sure which. One of them will thread nicely into the top female port of the steering rack. However, the lower port appears to be 9/16" instead of 5/8"? I tried to fit my calipers in there but it's pretty tight. Visually, it might look slightly smaller, not sure. I revisited the Factory Five KRC instructions but they are still dated 2017 and not very accurate for today's equipment.

So, in a nutshell, I am not sure what to think. I believe one of the two fitting is incorrect and will call Factory Five in the morning so steering line install is on hold at the moment. These are the two identical fittings:

227895


This shows the fitting in the one hole it will fit in. The lower hole appears to be just slightly smaller.

227897


Thinking the lower port is 1/2", not 9/16".

227896

According to Google and Breeze's site they are this.

The 1993 Ford Mustang (Fox Body) power steering rack uses two different sized SAE O-ring ports for the hydraulic lines. The pressure port is 9/16"-18 and the return port is 5/8"-18.

[PNWTim]

According to Google and Breeze's site they are this.

The 1993 Ford Mustang (Fox Body) power steering rack uses two different sized SAE O-ring ports for the hydraulic lines. The pressure port is 9/16"-18 and the return port is 5/8"-18.

Thanks Brent, that explains it. For some reason F5 sent me 2 5/8" fittings. Giving them a call now.

[460.465USMC]

...So I embarked on a bracket project that became a little more of a project than I thought but they turned out really well. I essentially welded up an "H" shaped bracket that I could bolt to my sliders. In order to do this I had to weld receiving nuts inside the slider half to receive bolts. I then used the smaller cross bars to allow for four bolts within the confines of the seat pan on the car. I used caged nuts for those and attached them with countersunk rivets. I had to JB Weld some 1/4" spacers between the bracket and the mounting bolts to account for the other four bolt heads which attach the bracket to the slider. You can just see the spacers peeking out from under the cross bars.

227888

Really nice work on the seat bracket, sir. I've dabbled enough now to know these custom pieces take me way more thought and way more time to execute than I care to admit. There's more going on there that meets the uninitiated eye. Great work! Learning to weld?...one of these days. It's on my list.

[PNWTim]

Really nice work on the seat bracket, sir. I've dabbled enough now to know these custom pieces take me way more thought and way more time to execute than I care to admit. There's more going on there that meets the uninitiated eye. Great work! Learning to weld?...one of these days. It's on my list.

Thanks Chris. Yes, I am learning to weld. I bought a MIG welder three years ago with the intent of teaching myself to weld. I am a long way from being skilled but I am pretty good at throwing a lot of slag and burning holes through steel. Fortunately, my son has been handy and does the finer finesse work like welding the nuts inside​ the slider mechanisms.

[PNWTim]

Spent the last few days trying to finish up the engine compartment so I can finish the radiator tunnel sheet metal and install the radiator and AC condenser and Boig cool tubes. None of it is terribly exciting but I finished up the alternator and sending unit connections. I opted to run the line through the hollow of the engine mount bracket:

227954

Starter connections worked out well considering I kind of guessed where to terminate the two wires. I am also going to add a 1 gauge ground cable to the motor mount in this location and through bolt it to the engine mount stand:

227955

I also finished unwrapping, rerouting and extending the engine harness to reach my chosen ECM mount location. I extended both the engine ground wire and the #1 cylinder coil pack connector. Originally I was going to extend the throttle body harness (which was a somewhat intimidating as it has 5 little wires) but I found a group that sells an extension harness which was an easy decision. I have also chosen to route both my heater hoses together rather than one down and around the back. I can't see what this would be an issue but I need to test fit my cover and make sure this isn't creating an unforeseen problem.

227956

[460.465USMC]

Coming together, Tim. May not be exciting, but inching closer to First Start, which is EXCITING IMHO.

You mentioned an engine cover. Can you share the details?

[PNWTim]

Coming together, Tim. May not be exciting, but inching closer to First Start, which is EXCITING IMHO.

You mentioned an engine cover. Can you share the details?

I purchased this cover with the intention of doing something custom with it:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-9680-M50D

Unfortunately, it didn't really fit very well since it's made to go with the hard plastic, formed PCV and factory heater lines. My engine harness is also doubled back up over the PS head and conflicts a bit. All in all, I couldn't really see a way to make it work without committing to some major surgery. It fits really low and nice, hugging the top of the engine so everything needs to be pretty low profile. I am probably going to end up with the raw, undressed look at this point.

The cover uses four balls that fit into sockets on top of the intake manifold. I briefly contemplated extending those balls to raise the cover but then the fit between the intake runners looks odd. At this point I am back to square one.

[PNWTim]

Still working away. I feel like I am getting a lot completed but it doesn't look like much. One of the things I've updated is my punch list I have on a white board magnetically attached to our freezer. I am curious how many others use something like this? I use it a lot to jot down things I need to order or return, small details of something I am working on as well as a punch list of items to complete. This list is primarily to wrap up the front half of the car:

228195

As you can see from the list, I haven't made a tremendous dent in it but I have tackled a few things. I finished up the AC compressor wiring and tested out my wiring label maker. The wiring pigtail I bought had two green leads and my AC compressor had a black and a black with a white stripe. I needed to figure out which was the ground and which was the hot so I could connect to the black and white wires coming from the AC wiring harness. Google told me the wires on the compressor are black = ground, black with white stripe = power. I made sure I continued those on to the green pigtail and wired it up:

228196

I also decided this was as good a place as any to start labeling those wires that might need a little clarity down the road:

228197

I also tapped into the number four cyclinder coil pack wire to obtain my Speedhut tach feed. On a side note, I called Speedhut to see if there was a preferred cylinder to tap into and they said no. What was news to me is that you can also tap into an injector wire as well. Both apparently transmit the appropriate signal to operate their tachometer. Who knew?

228198

All finished up. I did end up cutting the wire and using an inline crimp as it was cleaner than soldering and taping. Those with sharp eyes will note the Packard 56 wiring connector I used. All buttoned up and tucked away:

228199

I also finished my O2 sensor harness as I will probably install my headers tomorrow. I thought I would show the tools I use to do this just for fun. I ended up cutting and modifying this harness to length and using new loom and heat shrink to finish it off:

228200

[PNWTim]

I also installed my engine ground cable:

228201

[JimStone]

Looking good Tim

I keep a running "to-do" list on notepad widget in my phone. Let's me organize and plan while away from the shop.

I do keep a clipboard in the garage with a "you better not forget" list of important reminders in case my phone bites the dust or there's an EMP blast or something (kidding, sorta)



I like your wire sleeve label maker. I've been using a cheap thermal label maker, which works great until you accidentally zap your labels with a heat gun shrinking the shrink tubing on the adjacent wire.

[Skuzzy]

I have two whiteboards in my garage. One is the list of projects I need to do (33 items on that list, so far), and the other is the "to-do" list using the index number of the job on the other board as a reference.

[PNWTim]

Looking good Tim

I keep a running "to-do" list on notepad widget in my phone. Let's me organize and plan while away from the shop.

I do keep a clipboard in the garage with a "you better not forget" list of important reminders in case my phone bites the dust or there's an EMP blast or something (kidding, sorta)



I like your wire sleeve label maker. I've been using a cheap thermal label maker, which works great until you accidentally zap your labels with a heat gun shrinking the shrink tubing on the adjacent wire.

I have had my heat shrink labeler for a while but haven't really used it as I haven't actually "terminated" that many wires that aren't already labeled. It's going to come into it's own in the cockpit though.

My white board is definitely proof against an EMP but not a shoulder brushing against it so take your pick.

[TXeverydayDad]

Spent the last few days trying to finish up the engine compartment so I can finish the radiator tunnel sheet metal and install the radiator and AC condenser and Boig cool tubes. None of it is terribly exciting but I finished up the alternator and sending unit connections. I opted to run the line through the hollow of the engine mount bracket:

227954



Looking good Tim. A suggestion - put some tape/insulation over the exposed alternator 12V connection. With the aluminum wrapped sensor wires just around it, it’s easy to make accidental contact and throw serious sparks. Ask me how I know…

[PNWTim]

Looking good Tim. A suggestion - put some tape/insulation over the exposed alternator 12V connection. With the aluminum wrapped sensor wires just around it, it’s easy to make accidental contact and throw serious sparks. Ask me how I know…

Thanks and thanks for the suggestion. It's actually further away than it looks but I do have a boot end for that cable so need to deploy it sooner rather than later.

[PNWTim]

I have wrapped up the plumbing for the engine compartment. I decided to route both my heater hoses to the PS side around the front to keep them together and neatly routed. They are a bit higher than I would like but the doubled back engine harness didn't allow me to place them any lower. All the PCV and vacuum hose plumbing is complete as well using quick disconnects wherever possible. Where those weren't practical, I used a combination of Gates Powergrip and Oetiker clamps.

Also made up the hoses to my overflow tank and permanently mounted it in it's location. I ended up using an LS engine heater hose for my lower tank hose as the Coyote fitting was slightly larger than my tank fitting and it worked out perfectly. The LS hose is 3/4" on one end and 5/8" on the other. I still need to run the overflow hose with the check valve but will do so once my radiator is in.

I gave up waiting on F5 for my missing steering fitting and ordered one from Amazon. I ran my power steering lines and while I like the layout, I feel like there is a leak waiting to happen. My 9/16" and 5/8" fittings originally came with teflon/HDPE washers. I destroyed the first one snugging it down. The manual says these are Dorman 82540 which I purchased this morning. I tore one in half trying to get it onto the fitting and gave up on the other one. I ended up going with O-Rings instead. Although I snugged the fittings down pretty well you can move them by hand once the lines were attached. I know the O-ring does the sealing but they simply don't seem tight enough but I was hesitant to crank them down and chance distorting the o-ring. If I had my way, I'd go with copper crush washers but they are difficult to find in those sizes. I guess we will see one the Coyote fires up.

I also mounted up the intake and filter. I was unhappily reminded of the fact I threw away my $90 MAF sensor when I pitched the plastic parts which came with my control pack. I tried for a month or two to sell them on Ebay with no luck so they finally made their way to the recycling bin. To add insult to injury, I ordered a replacement from Rock Auto but when I received the new one it didn't fit the harness plug. I got a hold of Chris (forum member 460.465USMC ) and he confirmed I had the wrong one. Of course at this point I had thrown away the packaging which is the kiss of death for a refund. I went ahead and sent it back anyways hoping for a partial. For anyone that needs to know, the MAF sensors that are shipped with the control pack for the Gen 4X are the 2018 to 2023 Gen 3 MAF's, not the 2024-2025 MAFs like I assumed. Live and learn.

All in all, I enjoyed this portion of the work but now it's back to finishing up the cockpit wiring.

228323

[460.465USMC]

Hi Tim. I recently made the decision to go with Breeze braided hoses because I'm going to add a PS cooler. He sells a -6AN adapter kit that may be a good solution for you (adapts the different size PS rack ports to -6AN male). I chatted with him at length last week, and his sealing approach with this kit sounds more robust than what we get from F5 as you described above.

Adapter Fitting Kit, one each 9/16″ and 5/8″ O-Ring to 06AN, Zinc Plated Steel, For ’87 – ’93 Mustang Specification Power Steering Racks. Includes sealing washers to be added to the fittings if the inlet and outlet ports on your rack are not chamfered as is the case with some new racks supplied by Factory Five Racing and perhaps others.

From his instructions:

The fittings seal with an O-ring at the base of the threads that seats in and is captured by the chamfered lead in to the female threads of the ports in the rack. New racks supplied by Factory Five Racing lack that chamfer and in that case you will add the included sealing washers, known as Dowty Bonded Seals, to capture the O-ring on its outside diameter.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228353&d=1776639622

[PNWTim]

Hi Tim. I recently made the decision to go with Breeze braided hoses because I'm going to add a PS cooler. He sells a -6AN adapter kit that may be a good solution for you (adapts the different size PS rack ports to -6AN male). I chatted with him at length last week, and his sealing approach with this kit sounds more robust than what we get from F5 as you described above.

Adapter Fitting Kit, one each 9/16″ and 5/8″ O-Ring to 06AN, Zinc Plated Steel, For ’87 – ’93 Mustang Specification Power Steering Racks. Includes sealing washers to be added to the fittings if the inlet and outlet ports on your rack are not chamfered as is the case with some new racks supplied by Factory Five Racing and perhaps others.

From his instructions:

The fittings seal with an O-ring at the base of the threads that seats in and is captured by the chamfered lead in to the female threads of the ports in the rack. New racks supplied by Factory Five Racing lack that chamfer and in that case you will add the included sealing washers, known as Dowty Bonded Seals, to capture the O-ring on its outside diameter.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228353&d=1776639622

Well, great minds think alike. I looked at this kit and may just order it for insurance. I bought a PS cooler a year ago (the one Paul has used) and decided at the last moment I didn't really need it so I wasn't going to incorporate it mostly because I didn't want to pay for the extra hoses needed to connect it. I looked very closely at my rack and honestly couldn't tell if there was a chamfer or not, so I guess something I need to mull over. I just know the teflon seals are a non-starter (at least for me).

[460.465USMC]

I completely understand. I wasn't going to spend the money or effort on the cooler, but recently changed my mind for some reason. Agreed, the hoses and connectors are not cheap, but boy what a difference (Breeze parts) compared to the units from F5. I ran with the F5 supplied hoses on my Mk4, and no issues after slightly tightening the adapters at the rack after First Start.

[PNWTim]

Finished with the engine compartment so I am back to the wiring. Made some good progress the last couple of days. Firewall wiring is completed with the final addition of the 150 amp inline fuse for the alternator charge wire. I was originally going to put this in the cockpit but I could find a location that was realistically accessible. I finally realized it made the most sense to put it on the firewall. All this wiring looks like a lot a spaghetti mostly because there is a lot going on in a very limited area. I'm pretty happy with how it all turned out now that it's finished.

228485

With that wrapped up I got back in the driver's seat for the interior wiring. I think I am only a day or so away from wrapping this up but I need to actually finish my dash upholstery. Since my dash is one piece, I need to terminate a lot of switch wiring in the correct locations and to do this will require the dash mocked up in place. I have been practicing with my sewing machine but haven't developed the level of confidence I would like to stitch my Alcantara but I may have to roll regardless as this is a roadblock. I do have everything layed out and planned but to keep wiring to decent lengths it almost has to be done in place. Here is where it all stands right now. I also still have a couple of question marks in my mind on a couple of items:



I have been unsuccessful in finding a toggle switch which acts as a rotary switch for my temperature control. I thought I might be able to find one where the toggle lever would move a pivoting linear slide to duplicate the effect but if such a thing exists out there I can't find it. I don't really want to hide the temperature control so I may end up simply having a cold, warm and hot toggle. More to come on this.
I am still looking for specialized toggles to replace the Dakota Digital cruise control switches. They are severely lacking in style points. They do have some logic built into them so any replacement has to be able to do the same. Since most OEMs these days are steering wheel or stalk controls a drop in option has been difficult to obtain. I may end up using them with the idea of replacing down the road but not sure as yet.


228486

And for a little comic relief, this is the floor outside the passenger side of the car where I have been pitching all my offcuts and such. I thought it was indicative of how much work goes into these. I like to use zip ties as temporary, sacrificial clamps while I do things like this so that is a lot of what you see:

228487

[edwardb]

I'm a ways behind you on my Mk5 Roadster wiring. Still in the "mess" stage but getting better as I work through it. You're making good progress with yours. From practical experience with the FFR A/C-Heat system, I'd caution you on a "low-medium-high" temperature control. A/C is almost always at full cold. But heat can require subtle changes to be the most comfortable. (I'm speaking for the usual occupant in the passenger seat. :p) I'd recommend figuring out a way to have it adjustable rather than fixed points. I'm sure you've seen the pics of the switch panel in my Coupe. I have matching knobs and switches in a row. Looks decent and is very functional.

[PNWTim]

I'm a ways behind you on my Mk5 Roadster wiring. Still in the "mess" stage but getting better as I work through it. You're making good progress with yours. From practical experience with the FFR A/C-Heat system, I'd caution you on a "low-medium-high" temperature control. A/C is almost always at full cold. But heat can require subtle changes to be the most comfortable. (I'm speaking for the usual occupant in the passenger seat. :p) I'd recommend figuring out a way to have it adjustable rather than fixed points. I'm sure you've seen the pics of the switch panel in my Coupe. I have matching knobs and switches in a row. Looks decent and is very functional.

Thanks Paul. Probably wise advice based on practical experience. I was leaning the way you describe, just fighting it because I have this stubborn vision in my head that won't let go. It's getting down to the wire though so I am at the "fish or cut bait" stage".

[JTG]

And for a little comic relief, this is the floor outside the passenger side of the car where I have been pitching all my offcuts and such. I thought it was indicative of how much work goes into these. I like to use zip ties as temporary, sacrificial clamps while I do things like this so that is a lot of what you see:

228487

I love this picture, it feels like progress to me even though it's messy.

Something along the lines of "Never trust a neat cook". Because they're focusing on being neat, not on making the food delicious.

[Papa]

Finished with the engine compartment so I am back to the wiring. Made some good progress the last couple of days. Firewall wiring is completed with the final addition of the 150 amp inline fuse for the alternator charge wire. I was originally going to put this in the cockpit but I could find a location that was realistically accessible. I finally realized it made the most sense to put it on the firewall. All this wiring looks like a lot a spaghetti mostly because there is a lot going on in a very limited area. I'm pretty happy with how it all turned out now that it's finished.

228485

With that wrapped up I got back in the driver's seat for the interior wiring. I think I am only a day or so away from wrapping this up but I need to actually finish my dash upholstery. Since my dash is one piece, I need to terminate a lot of switch wiring in the correct locations and to do this will require the dash mocked up in place. I have been practicing with my sewing machine but haven't developed the level of confidence I would like to stitch my Alcantara but I may have to roll regardless as this is a roadblock. I do have everything layed out and planned but to keep wiring to decent lengths it almost has to be done in place. Here is where it all stands right now. I also still have a couple of question marks in my mind on a couple of items:



I have been unsuccessful in finding a toggle switch which acts as a rotary switch for my temperature control. I thought I might be able to find one where the toggle lever would move a pivoting linear slide to duplicate the effect but if such a thing exists out there I can't find it. I don't really want to hide the temperature control so I may end up simply having a cold, warm and hot toggle. More to come on this.
I am still looking for specialized toggles to replace the Dakota Digital cruise control switches. They are severely lacking in style points. They do have some logic built into them so any replacement has to be able to do the same. Since most OEMs these days are steering wheel or stalk controls a drop in option has been difficult to obtain. I may end up using them with the idea of replacing down the road but not sure as yet.


228486

And for a little comic relief, this is the floor outside the passenger side of the car where I have been pitching all my offcuts and such. I thought it was indicative of how much work goes into these. I like to use zip ties as temporary, sacrificial clamps while I do things like this so that is a lot of what you see:

228487

I don't see any blood or shredded bandages on the floor ... not working hard enough! :p

[PNWTim]

The blood drips and bandages are out the drivers side...

[burchfieldb]

Bandages? That's what electrical tape is for. ��

[PNWTim]

Bandages? That's what electrical tape is for. ��

"Bandages" is code for blue painters tape and superglue.

[Blitzboy54]

"Bandages" is code for blue painters tape and superglue.

I lost count how many times I am about to do something with a razor knife and think very clearly "I'm about to cut myself", do nothing different then cut myself.

[PNWTim]

I lost count how many times I am about to do something with a razor knife and think very clearly "I'm about to cut myself", do nothing different then cut myself.

It's my melon that keeps taking a beating. I am doing all this wiring from the driver's seat and every time I get in and out, and probably 16 times while I am sitting there I remind myself "now, don't hit your head on the roll bar" then promptly clock myself on the roll bar.

[P100DHG]

This looks amazing! Keep up the good work!

[burchfieldb]

It's my melon that keeps taking a beating. I am doing all this wiring from the driver's seat and every time I get in and out, and probably 16 times while I am sitting there I remind myself "now, don't hit your head on the roll bar" then promptly clock myself on the roll bar.

You need to throw a pool noodle on there ;)

[PNWTim]

You need to throw a pool noodle on there ;)

Shockingly, I have pipe insulation on all of them but they somehow seem to magically rotate of their own accord so the small bare space is perfectly oriented towards my head.

[PNWTim]

I know, I know, it doesn't look finished but it essentially it is. Because my dash is one piece I basically have to pre-wire everything so I can hang the dash and then install the switches from the back side. I also need to make sure all these wires are long enough but not too long so I don't end up with a rats nest and leave enough room for my A/C and defroster hoses. Some of the components are a little difficult to pick out amongst the electrical spaghetti but looking from left to right we have:



Turn signal indicator housing
Dim/Bright switch
Dash harness wires for gauge feed, fuel level, voltage gauge (using one of the clock feeds if I remember correctly)
Turn signal switch
Wiper switch
Ignition switch
Push button start switch
Loose wires from the Bowler reverse lockout switch and VSS feeds. There are two red/brown wires exiting this harness under the console which control the back up lights.
Cigar lighter
and hidden just behind the lighter is my wiper squirter momentary switch


I have not included the headlight switch as it's fairly large and I didn't want it in my way. You'll also note I don't have the fan and A/C switches nor the temperature rotary switch connected as I have still not decided how to handle these. The fan and A/C switch I was originally going to include in my bank of switches which leaves the temp controller as a bit of an orphan. I don't really like the idea of hiding it so I may be moving a couple of items around. Still mulling that over.

A couple of items not showing but essentially wired are the turn signal warning chime and the headlight warning chime. These are going to mount either on the ends of the upright portion of the center console or on a custom bracket and hidden under the dash. I have also wired up a high beam indicator and courtesy lights. The puddle or footwell lights are controlled by the module you can see left of center on my console (it has all the colored wires). It's a pretty neat little unit, is WiFi enabled and can be programmed to manage the lights in a lot of different ways.

I also have a Bat+ feed going to both doors for my door poppers and puddle lights (part of the courtesy light circuit) there as well. Branching off of that wiring will be my roundel racing lights on the doors (also known as 1964 MGB license plate lights). This is tied into the headlight switch and will power on when either the running lights or headlights are on.

I guess that's about it for now. I need to install my headers and do a couple of other things and then it should be time for first start. Hopefully in a week or two.

228662

[Papa]

Looking good, Tim. I'm close to the same point on my wiring inside the car. I'm considering a dome light of some sort tied to the courtesy circuit. I also have to wait and see what the FormaCar window wiring looks like before I can button mine up.