Tim's Type 65 Build - Cockpit Wiring Finished?

[PNWTim]

Well, I suppose it's official. I ordered my kit today with a completion date of 11/27. I was originally going to wait until mid-year next year in the hopes of acquiring a 30th Anniversary version (no that's not announced, just my wishful thinking) but when Dave announced the over-inventory end of year discount + free powder coating to the first 20 orders + guaranteed price increase Jan 1, I decided to pull the trigger. I guess they weren't kidding when they were talking about inventory capacity since my kit will be ready to go 2 months from now. I had also intended to pick my kit up but considering the time of year and no Santa's Sleigh to whisk me there and back I have decided to leave shipment and delivery to the pros.

In the tradition of most of the build threads here is a quick rundown of what I am planning, subject to multiple changes, budget overruns, duplicate parts and the usual project adjustments.

- Type 65 Complete Kit
- Gen 4 Coyote (unless I'm mistaken both single ,Gen4X and dual TB, Gen4 versions are available)
- Up in the air on Control Pack or Terminator X
- T-56
- IRS with Torsen 3.73 center section
- QA1 shocks on all four corners
- EPAS electric steering
- Air Conditioning
- 19" Forged wheels of some kind
- Wilwood brakes front and rear
- Aftermarket seats TBD
- Possible electronic dash or not. On the fence on this one.

I guess these are the basics and subject to some change. There are so many great build threads in this community, both coupe and roadster with a lot of cross pollination available from both. I will of course lean heavily on Paul's build taking many of his proven changes as automatics (Howe Racing, Moog, etc.). I am in no hurry to complete since my kit is essentially arriving 9 months earlier than I was planning and I love the planning, shopping, fitting, building and tinkering as much as the driving.

Anyhow, I have some garage prep to do as well as other to do's prior to kit arrival so will check back in as updates occur.

[edwardb]

Congratulations on your Coupe order. You're in for a build adventure and a great result. Nice looking build plan. Lots of it looks familiar. :o Are you planning A/C? My only recommendation would be to think hard about that EPAS plan. You don't have to look hard in the forum to find I'm a huge power steering fan. So I'm all over that. But having had EPAS in the 35 truck build and KRC hydraulic power steering in the Coupe and 20th Anniversary Roadster, I can only suggest the KRC setup is superior. But quite a lot. It's a bolt-on for the Coyote and no chassis mods required like where/how to fit EPAS in the Coupe.

[PNWTim]

Congratulations on your Coupe order. You're in for a build adventure and a great result. Nice looking build plan. Lots of it looks familiar. :o Are you planning A/C? My only recommendation would be to think hard about that EPAS plan. You don't have to look hard in the forum to find I'm a huge power steering fan. So I'm all over that. But having had EPAS in the 35 truck build and KRC hydraulic power steering in the Coupe and 20th Anniversary Roadster, I can only suggest the KRC setup is superior. But quite a lot. It's a bolt-on for the Coyote and no chassis mods required like where/how to fit EPAS in the Coupe.

Thanks Paul, appreciate the feedback. I did order the A/C setup, just forgot to list it. Will correct that when finished typing this. The primary reason I am leaning towards electric steering is to address steering resistance and the adjustability thereof. I didn't recall you installed it in your truck build but will review. This is the type of information this forum is excellent for and since I have a lot of flexibility to adjust I will take a deeper dive on that subject. Your personal experience with multiple builds is invaluable to us new guys.

[edwardb]

Thanks Paul, appreciate the feedback. I did order the A/C setup, just forgot to list it. Will correct that when finished typing this. The primary reason I am leaning towards electric steering is to address steering resistance and the adjustability thereof. I didn't recall you installed it in your truck build but will review. This is the type of information this forum is excellent for and since I have a lot of flexibility to adjust I will take a deeper dive on that subject. Your personal experience with multiple builds is invaluable to us new guys.

The KRC pump has changeable flow valves. So you can dial it in the way you like. I have the lowest flow size in mine and for me it's perfect. Listed in the spreadsheet I sent. For a Coyote, it's really a nice setup.

[JimStone]

Congratulations on starting your journey!

I picked up my Coupe kit end of May and it's been a blast so far.

Am looking forward to following along with your build thread

[PNWTim]

The KRC pump has changeable flow valves. So you can dial it in the way you like. I have the lowest flow size in mine and for me it's perfect. Listed in the spreadsheet I sent. For a Coyote, it's really a nice setup.

Well, that's good to know. I am going to do a deep dive into this over the next week or so as you bring up really valid points. I believe I have the opportunity to add/subtract to my order over the next couple of weeks.

[PNWTim]

Congratulations on starting your journey!

I picked up my Coupe kit end of May and it's been a blast so far.

Am looking forward to following along with your build thread

Thanks! I really enjoy the documentation of progress with photos and notes so looking forward to morning coffee reading for the group.

[edwardb]

Well, that's good to know. I am going to do a deep dive into this over the next week or so as you bring up really valid points. I believe I have the opportunity to add/subtract to my order over the next couple of weeks.

Not to beat a dead horse too much... but here's some hints on this topic. (1) The KRC/Coyote setup (what Factory Five sells for a Coyote) is a commercially available kit. Summit, etc. Don't want to take business away from Factory Five. But sometimes it makes sense to shop around. (2) The power steering rack Factory Five sells has been a little spotty for quality. But the advantage is that it does have the needed extenders built in. They will replace it if not OK (numerous examples here on the forum) but not necessarily fun to take in/out. Some use Fox body Mustang racks from their local parts stores. Remans, but widely available and come with a warranty. I have a Unisteer from Breeze in mine. Which is a rock solid piece. But the Unisteer (MAVAL Industries) rack is no longer available from Breeze. He recommends, but does not sell, BBB Industries N1010106. New (vs. reman), good quality. Available at Rock Auto. My buddy installed one in his Challenge Roadster. Anything you don't buy from Factory Five will need their one inch rack extenders. Note Rock Auto also sells a reman BBB Industries part for less. But personally I'd opt for new if you go that way.

Factory Five lets you make changes to your order right up to where it's about to go into production and final payment is due. Typically a few weeks before your promise date. So you have time. Lots of choices and options along the way. Welcome to the madness.

[lewma]

Congrats on your order! You'll love the car when it's done :)

[PNWTim]

Not to beat a dead horse too much... but here's some hints on this topic. (1) The KRC/Coyote setup (what Factory Five sells for a Coyote) is a commercially available kit. Summit, etc. Don't want to take business away from Factory Five. But sometimes it makes sense to shop around. (2) The power steering rack Factory Five sells has been a little spotty for quality. But the advantage is that it does have the needed extenders built in. They will replace it if not OK (numerous examples here on the forum) but not necessarily fun to take in/out. Some use Fox body Mustang racks from their local parts stores. Remans, but widely available and come with a warranty. I have a Unisteer from Breeze in mine. Which is a rock solid piece. But the Unisteer (MAVAL Industries) rack is no longer available from Breeze. He recommends, but does not sell, BBB Industries N1010106. New (vs. reman), good quality. Available at Rock Auto. My buddy installed one in his Challenge Roadster. Anything you don't buy from Factory Five will need their one inch rack extenders. Note Rock Auto also sells a reman BBB Industries part for less. But personally I'd opt for new if you go that way.

Factory Five lets you make changes to your order right up to where it's about to go into production and final payment is due. Typically a few weeks before your promise date. So you have time. Lots of choices and options along the way. Welcome to the madness.

That horse just jumped up and is still kicking! I had posted a few questions on the forum a couple days before I ordered my kit and one of them was specifically about power steering. Without calling, I am not clear on what comes with the Factory Five power steering kit so I chose to forego it for the time being (also with E steer in my head). Something that is tried and true appeals to me as I prefer not to be the beta tester although I may fall in that category already with the Gen 4 Coyote. I was under the impression the KRC pump was purely aftermarket, not part of what is provided? Personally, I would prefer supporting and purchasing from Factory Five as long as it makes sense. For clarity, when you say "rack extenders" are those to extend the steering shafts or to extend the mounting pads?

[PNWTim]

Congrats on your order! You'll love the car when it's done :)

Thanks! Really looking forward to the journey.

[Rsnake]

Welcome to the Type 65 Family. It's an amazing group of people.

[PNWTim]

Thanks!

[edwardb]

That horse just jumped up and is still kicking! I had posted a few questions on the forum a couple days before I ordered my kit and one of them was specifically about power steering. Without calling, I am not clear on what comes with the Factory Five power steering kit so I chose to forego it for the time being (also with E steer in my head). Something that is tried and true appeals to me as I prefer not to be the beta tester although I may fall in that category already with the Gen 4 Coyote. I was under the impression the KRC pump was purely aftermarket, not part of what is provided? Personally, I would prefer supporting and purchasing from Factory Five as long as it makes sense. For clarity, when you say "rack extenders" are those to extend the steering shafts or to extend the mounting pads?

If you order the power steering from Factory Five for a Coyote, their part number 16473, it includes the PS rack, the KRC 66302125 Coyote setup, and (I think...) the hoses to connect everything. In the past they were selling rubber hoses with crimped on fittings. Many changed those to braided stainless/high pressure PTFE hoses. Maybe they are too now. But I don't know. For both of my Coyote/PS builds, I bought the KRC setup myself, the Breeze Unisteer rack (described previously), and hoses from Breeze. By all means, buy from Factory Five if that's your choice. No worries here. I would just confirm what's included. For power steering for something other than a Coyote, on the Coupe order sheet it lists their part number 16799 and says it doesn't include the pump or mounting bracket. Explains the much lower price.

The rack extenders go on the inner tie rods of the PS rack. Under the rubber boots. The purpose is to get the pivot points for the rack lined up with the control arms on the front suspension. Improves front end geometry and reduces of bump steer. Others with way more knowledge than me can explain it better. But they just need to be there.

[PNWTim]

So, while I'm in my "waiting to arrive" period, I'm going to spend the next couple of months acquiring parts and tools I am certain to use. I have a fairly well equipped shop/garage but there are a few things I have jotted down as a list and looking for others to add or subtract based on personal experience. Because who doesn't need new tools?

#10 and #30 135 degree drill bits
Pneumatic or electric or manual rivet tool (or all three)
Power Probe III
Rivet spacing tool
Clecos (do I only need 1/8" size or are there others I should have)
30" brake
Ball joint socket - need to know the size of the Howe ball joints

That's about it for now, pretty short list. Open to all comments, recommendations and feedback.

[460.465USMC]

Congrats on your order, and welcome aboard! You're in for a lot of fun (and maybe a few moments of frustration here and there :p). Great choices and options for your build IMHO. I received my Coyote Gen 4X a few weeks ago, and will be going with the Ford ECU pack again. It was a very solid setup on my Coyote Gen 3, and reasonably straight forward to install.

Lots of opinions on what tools you might "need", but I can confirm having some 3/16" clecos on-hand will be helpful. The Power Probe III was recommended to me. I don't regret buying one. Was so helpful in testing my wiring...limits the unintended smoke releases. I used a manual rivet puller on my Cobra build, and will again on my Coupe build. Only issue was on 3/16" stainless rivets--those were a bear! I also bought a 30" brake, but didn't end up using it as much on my Roadster build as I thought I would. Maybe that will change on my Coupe build.

P.S. by your handle I assume you're in the Pacific Northwest? If you don't mind me asking, whereabouts?

[JimStone]

Not mandatory, but if you plan on customizing anything, here are some more "advanced" tools I seem to use almost daily:


Wen 12 inch drill press - love it
https://www.amazon.com/WEN-4214T-Variable-Speed-Drill/dp/B09253MVXN/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?adgrpid=55032357974&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.hqYdhOfNVoxdZB7w4Rfnb0EuWQE0bIcN5 jOcHPWE2EPm_0mloIje6f_F6XooVVaLwCtDaC9Fv3Hfj-r8h-p1AtRKHGyi9m8KxSLp2ide8J-uTZnmbcaBu9YA6fOYT3uabzOc-RCukQ9JuXHvGkzWiPg-1NhFC5hBsF6RD78QhsHfFnxuKFDnoNrB2eC8GaHHL5Vr31iA_b Q4rY7QAu2jAw.nuJ627Cgyu65bYFfkatBHP7abVLn2kpjNNTS0 iDkxpY&dib_tag=se&hvadid=580807857118&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9017361&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=5888220153854660945&hvtargid=kwd-375871724350&hydadcr=20347_13324766&keywords=wen+drill+press+12+inch&qid=1727490665&sr=8-1


Bauer bench belt/disc sander
https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-x-36-in-belt-and-6-in-disc-sander-58339.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12126402660&campaignid=12126402660&utm_content=128234890720&adsetid=128234890720&product=58339&store=3516&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwr9m3BhDHARIsANut04bnVpPqZilqq2fz9Koh 8VJWcXknhCURdMwvPP-erUWkl0UvkA19c80aAgySEALw_wcB

Harbor Freight 9 inch band saw (although I'd actually buy a bigger one if I did it again) - with replacement higher tooth count blade
https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/power-saws/band-saws-scroll-saws/13-hp-9-in-benchtop-band-saw-60500.html






Forget the pneumatic riveter, just get the Milwaukee M12 electric

[PNWTim]

Congrats on your order, and welcome aboard! You're in for a lot of fun (and maybe a few moments of frustration here and there :p). Great choices and options for your build IMHO. I received my Coyote Gen 4X a few weeks ago, and will be going with the Ford ECU pack again. It was a very solid setup on my Coyote Gen 3, and reasonably straight forward to install.

Lots of opinions on what tools you might "need", but I can confirm having some 3/16" clecos on-hand will be helpful. The Power Probe III was recommended to me. I don't regret buying one. Was so helpful in testing my wiring...limits the unintended smoke releases. I used a manual rivet puller on my Cobra build, and will again on my Coupe build. Only issue was on 3/16" stainless rivets--those were a bear! I also bought a 30" brake, but didn't end up using it as much on my Roadster build as I thought I would. Maybe that will change on my Coupe build.

P.S. by your handle I assume you're in the Pacific Northwest? If you don't mind me asking, whereabouts?

Letting the magic smoke out is never a good thing. I would be interested in which rivet puller you used/are using. I also have a manual rivnut puller which I am planning but may get a larger one. I love my rivnuts! I tried to update my profile today with location, Avatar and signature but apparently I need 20 posts prior to that happening. I am in Damascus, just on the east side of Portland on the way to the mountain. I get up to Spokane every now and then so maybe can connect one of these days. I have read your roadster build thread which is great and looking forward to following along with your coupe thread as well.

[PNWTim]

Not mandatory, but if you plan on customizing anything, here are some more "advanced" tools I seem to use almost daily:


Wen 12 inch drill press - love it
https://www.amazon.com/WEN-4214T-Variable-Speed-Drill/dp/B09253MVXN/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?adgrpid=55032357974&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.hqYdhOfNVoxdZB7w4Rfnb0EuWQE0bIcN5 jOcHPWE2EPm_0mloIje6f_F6XooVVaLwCtDaC9Fv3Hfj-r8h-p1AtRKHGyi9m8KxSLp2ide8J-uTZnmbcaBu9YA6fOYT3uabzOc-RCukQ9JuXHvGkzWiPg-1NhFC5hBsF6RD78QhsHfFnxuKFDnoNrB2eC8GaHHL5Vr31iA_b Q4rY7QAu2jAw.nuJ627Cgyu65bYFfkatBHP7abVLn2kpjNNTS0 iDkxpY&dib_tag=se&hvadid=580807857118&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9017361&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=5888220153854660945&hvtargid=kwd-375871724350&hydadcr=20347_13324766&keywords=wen+drill+press+12+inch&qid=1727490665&sr=8-1


Bauer bench belt/disc sander
https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-x-36-in-belt-and-6-in-disc-sander-58339.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12126402660&campaignid=12126402660&utm_content=128234890720&adsetid=128234890720&product=58339&store=3516&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwr9m3BhDHARIsANut04bnVpPqZilqq2fz9Koh 8VJWcXknhCURdMwvPP-erUWkl0UvkA19c80aAgySEALw_wcB

Harbor Freight 9 inch band saw (although I'd actually buy a bigger one if I did it again) - with replacement higher tooth count blade
https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/power-saws/band-saws-scroll-saws/13-hp-9-in-benchtop-band-saw-60500.html






Forget the pneumatic riveter, just get the Milwaukee M12 electric

Great call outs! I fortunately have a complete woodshop so I have those you listed with the exception of the Milwaukee riveter, which I will take a look at. Following your build closely as well. FWIW, I recently finished building a 69 Camaro which has an LS3 so it was a hard choice between the GM and Ford options but ultimately I decided to go with the mainstream on this one as it will be all new to me which I like.

[JimStone]

Great call outs! I fortunately have a complete woodshop so I have those you listed with the exception of the Milwaukee riveter, which I will take a look at. Following your build closely as well. FWIW, I recently finished building a 69 Camaro which has an LS3 so it was a hard choice between the GM and Ford options but ultimately I decided to go with the mainstream on this one as it will be all new to me which I like.

Nice! You're living my dream in reverse. I've been thinking of doing a classic Camaro after the Coupe. My wife even suggested that, which shocked me because I thought I scared her off with the whole car building hobby

[PNWTim]

Nice! You're living my dream in reverse. I've been thinking of doing a classic Camaro after the Coupe. My wife even suggested that, which shocked me because I thought I scared her off with the whole car building hobby

Better be careful, it's kind of addicting. Just ask Paul aka EdwardB...

[PNWTim]

I was originally planning on a major road trip next summer to pick my car up, tour the factory, meet everyone and just have a good time. As much as I still would like to do so, my hopes are dwindling after doing some logistical penciling last night. I am currently on the schedule with Todd at Stewart for either a Santa Claus delivery or a Happy New Year delivery. In a fit of "I'm just going to go get it" I sat down to figure out what it would take if I left Black Friday (my completion date is tentatively 11/27). Well, not looking good. First, no co-driver - wife and kids are all working. Second, 6300 mile round trip through what is probably going to be an inclement time of year. Just crossing the Rockies in early December can be a little dicey. And thirdly, almost $1500 to rent an enclosed car hauler.

So with all that in mind, probably sticking with the "hey look, there's a 53' semi parked out front" plan. I am distinctly envious of those who are within a days drive or so, quite the luxury. Like another forum member said recently, I too have never seen a Daytona in the flesh and blood so to speak. Soon enough I suppose.

[edwardb]

Better be careful, it's kind of addicting. Just ask Paul aka EdwardB...

Hey! I'm not the only one around here with multiple builds. :rolleyes: But I agree, it is addicting and I admit to having a problem. Isn't that the first step? Approaching my 10th year of retirement (hard to believe) and even though I retired early and was building while still working, I'm especially enjoying having more time now. I'm much happier (and easier to live with...) if I stay busy.


I was originally planning on a major road trip next summer to pick my car up, tour the factory, meet everyone and just have a good time. As much as I still would like to do so, my hopes are dwindling after doing some logistical penciling last night. I am currently on the schedule with Todd at Stewart for either a Santa Claus delivery or a Happy New Year delivery. In a fit of "I'm just going to go get it" I sat down to figure out what it would take if I left Black Friday (my completion date is tentatively 11/27). Well, not looking good. First, no co-driver - wife and kids are all working. Second, 6300 mile round trip through what is probably going to be an inclement time of year. Just crossing the Rockies in early December can be a little dicey. And thirdly, almost $1500 to rent an enclosed car hauler.

So with all that in mind, probably sticking with the "hey look, there's a 53' semi parked out front" plan. I am distinctly envious of those who are within a days drive or so, quite the luxury. Like another forum member said recently, I too have never seen a Daytona in the flesh and blood so to speak. Soon enough I suppose.

I've done both -- self pickup and Stewart. I'm in SE Michigan, so either a very long one day drive or a much easier two day drive to the factory. Plus I have a trailer. But even then, between gas, hotel and food doing overnights, plus there are a bunch of tolls that really add up with a trailer, it's about a wash for cost. Driving from the Pacific NW would be a long haul. Have driven distances like that multiple times, but in this case I agree let Stewart do it. But still get to the factory sometime. It's worth it.

[F500guy]

Hi Tim, I live out in the west side burbs of Portland, not a coupe build but a roadster just about ready to put the body on. Feel free to message me if you want to check out the build, it would give you some idea of what you get from F5 and the process. I do have a engine hoist that Is available to borrow when the time comes.

Lance

[460.465USMC]

Letting the magic smoke out is never a good thing. I would be interested in which rivet puller you used/are using. I also have a manual rivnut puller which I am planning but may get a larger one. I love my rivnuts! I tried to update my profile today with location, Avatar and signature but apparently I need 20 posts prior to that happening. I am in Damascus, just on the east side of Portland on the way to the mountain. I get up to Spokane every now and then so maybe can connect one of these days. I have read your roadster build thread which is great and looking forward to following along with your coupe thread as well.

I have the Marson HP-2 manual rivet puller (price is up $10 since I bought it two years ago!): https://www.summitracing.com/parts/afs-39000. I don't have experience with other pullers, but this one works great for me.

I love me some rivnuts as well. Was introduced to them here on the forum. I have the Astro 13" rivnut puller, and bought it as a kit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/APT-1450. Not so great in tight places, so I switch over a wrench-driven tool, like this one from McMaster: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/3781/96349A407.

Happy to connect with you when you're up in Spokane next time. I moved to Deer Park last year, which is about 20 minutes north of Spokane. Don't hesitate to reach out. We don't get too many F5 builders in my neck of the woods, so would be great to meet you.

[PNWTim]

Hey! I'm not the only one around here with multiple builds. :rolleyes: But I agree, it is addicting and I admit to having a problem. Isn't that the first step? Approaching my 10th year of retirement (hard to believe) and even though I retired early and was building while still working, I'm especially enjoying having more time now. I'm much happier (and easier to live with...) if I stay busy.



I've done both -- self pickup and Stewart. I'm in SE Michigan, so either a very long one day drive or a much easier two day drive to the factory. Plus I have a trailer. But even then, between gas, hotel and food doing overnights, plus there are a bunch of tolls that really add up with a trailer, it's about a wash for cost. Driving from the Pacific NW would be a long haul. Have driven distances like that multiple times, but in this case I agree let Stewart do it. But still get to the factory sometime. It's worth it.

I know you are not the only offender by any stretch but pretty certain you lead the pack. Like you, I prefer to be busy, love tinkering and have been looking for another car to build since I finished my Camaro. I have been filling my time restoring a Triumph TR5T and some other yard projects but really looking forward to taking a deep dive on this project.

After doing the math, it's actually quite a bit more cost effective for Stewart to deliver than it is for me to make that cross country trek - in fact, it's not even close. I am assuming my truck pulling an enclosed trailer would get 10 - 12 MPG so just the 400 - 500 gallons of fuel ruled that out. Needless to say, content to wait for the big truck.

[PNWTim]

Hi Tim, I live out in the west side burbs of Portland, not a coupe build but a roadster just about ready to put the body on. Feel free to message me if you want to check out the build, it would give you some idea of what you get from F5 and the process. I do have a engine hoist that Is available to borrow when the time comes.

Lance

I would love to come see your build, almost any time is convenient for me. Appreciate the offer of the hoist but I have one so good to go there. I will coordinate with you via PM here in the next couple of weeks.

[PNWTim]

I have the Marson HP-2 manual rivet puller (price is up $10 since I bought it two years ago!): https://www.summitracing.com/parts/afs-39000. I don't have experience with other pullers, but this one works great for me.

I love me some rivnuts as well. Was introduced to them here on the forum. I have the Astro 13" rivnut puller, and bought it as a kit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/APT-1450. Not so great in tight places, so I switch over a wrench-driven tool, like this one from McMaster: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/3781/96349A407.

Happy to connect with you when you're up in Spokane next time. I moved to Deer Park last year, which is about 20 minutes north of Spokane. Don't hesitate to reach out. We don't get too many F5 builders in my neck of the woods, so would be great to meet you.

Thanks Chris, I will check those out. I know the larger ones can be a bit bulky but the leverage trade off is worth it if you can fit them in there.

[edwardb]

Not sure what your experience level is. Here is some feedback. Hope nothing is insulting... I started with a manual rivet puller and quickly went to pneumatic. Combination of volume and difficult for my office hardened grip to pull the larger rivets. Especially since I have the bad habit of thinking some required higher strength steel or SS rivets. Did a build or two with the pneumatic and worked OK. But got tired of dragging the hose around, so sprung for the Milwaukee M12 2550-20 battery powered riveter. Best move I've ever made. I have most of (it seems...) Milwaukee's M12 tools so it was an easy add. Have used it for several car builds, hanging the ceiling in my basement, and now my airplane build. I can't imagine how many thousand rivets it's had through it, but it's been flawless. Highly recommended. If you're really bored (and like watching paint dry) this is me using the Milwaukee on my airplane build: https://youtu.be/RAgTjyHAorI

For pulling nutserts, I've used three different tools. Each has pluses and minuses. For many I've used the very simple wrench driven tools from McMaster. Like this one for #10's. I use a lot of 10-32's. https://www.mcmaster.com/96349A203/. I have a couple other sizes and they do a good job. I have an Astro 1442, the one with the long handles, and it works good. Does take some space plus you do have to be a little careful. With the long handles it's possible to overdo it. For my airplane build, which has hundreds (literally) of nutserts, an Astro ADN14 drill-driven was highly recommended. I find it a little cumbersome to use with a drill. Plus I found it a little difficult to gauge just how much torque to use. I use it quite a bit with a 1/4" ratchet on the input instead of a drill (don't laugh) and get very predictable results. Has been my most common go-to lately.

One other comment FWIW. I saw in another thread a discussion about metric vs. SAE studs for the IRS. Comments were the metric studs are larger (they are slightly) and to ream out the SN95 front hubs and use metric there. Replacing the previous Ford standard 1/2-20 studs. Obviously, do what you want. But keep in mind these builds are 1000 lbs or more lighter than the Mustang where the IRS center section and knuckles/hubs come from. There have been zero reports of any issues with the SAE studs on the IRS option from FF. Including builds that are dedicated track cars. Many builds seem to make a lot out of swapping the studs in the IRS hubs. I found they knock out pretty easily. I pull them in with a stack of lubricated washers, a sacrificial hardened nut (don't use the lug nuts), and a pneumatic impact wrench. Probably the easiest and best approach is with a hydraulic press. I've threatened to buy one more than once but have resisted. If you don't have one, your local machine shop can do it and the cost is apparently quite low. I had occasion to need more when doing my Coupe (cut the kit ones too short while installing spacers. Dumb) and found Dorman 610-290's were exactly the right size and worked perfectly. That size is not only used on Mustangs, but also full size vans, F-150's, etc. I don't think there's a problem with strength. Whatever you do, make all four corners the same. I've seen several suggest just leaving things as is, e.g. SAE in the front and metric in the back. Really not a good idea as many have suggested.

End of random thoughts. Again, good luck with your build.

[PNWTim]

Thanks Paul. I have virtually zero experience pulling rivets so all advice on that front is welcome. The Milwaukie is not so expensive as to be a prohibitive one use tool so I will definitely consider it. I am a Makita guy but their option in that particular arena is a no go.

I used many, many nutserts on my previous Camaro build so quite familiar with these and really like their utility. I have always pulled them by hand but I like the idea of the smaller, wrench powered tool. The powered options I have never tried but I know what you mean about needing to know how much torque is being applied. There were some larger nutserts that I finished pulling with a nut and bolt arrange and a ratchet. Curious if you can use the clutch on your drill to regulate?

As far as the wheel studs go I think you bring up very valid points. I am investigating simply because I suffer from the "bigger, faster, stronger" car building illness. For me, reaming out the front hubs feels like no more or less work than driving out the rears and reinstalling new studs. Kind of six of one, half dozen of another. Since the kit comes with the requisite components I will probably leave well enough alone.

[edwardb]

I used many, many nutserts on my previous Camaro build so quite familiar with these and really like their utility. I have always pulled them by hand but I like the idea of the smaller, wrench powered tool. The powered options I have never tried but I know what you mean about needing to know how much torque is being applied. There were some larger nutserts that I finished pulling with a nut and bolt arrange and a ratchet. Curious if you can use the clutch on your drill to regulate?

Yes, use of the drill clutch for the Astro ADN14 drill-driven is definitely what's recommended. I tried it multiple times and just wasn't comfortable with it. Maybe I didn't give it a long enough try. But I also found holding the tool plus the drill awkward. So gave up. Many use that tool successfully, so don't let my experience be your only data point. My total use was on my airplane build where I was super careful about them being exactly right. For obvious reasons.

[PNWTim]

While waiting for my kit to arrive I have been kicking around all kinds of ideas and one I keep circling back to is the wheel and tire combo and fitment (filling) of the wheel opening. I had originally decided to go to a 19" wheel which is still an option (albeit expensive) but I am also trying to determine if there is an older school look that will work. Specifically, I took this snip of a car that has a wheel opening filled with wheel and tire. I am guessing these are 15" rims with the associated rubber to work. My question is, are there tire sizes still available that will work with a standard Halibrand type wheel in 17" or are those now unicorns? Sort of looking to retain the large sidewall look with a slightly larger wheel. Ultimate goal is to fill the wheel well with as much rubber as I can squeeze in there. I hope this makes sense.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207190&d=1733519200

[PNWTim]

Christmas came 17 days early this year. A couple of photos to commemorate the event:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207289&d=1733685945

Eric was great!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207290&d=1733685961

And all settled in
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207292&d=1733685988

[PNWTim]

Started inventory, I think I got through the first 5 or 6 boxes. My POL is really short, I think 4 or 5 odds and ends.

[Smiley]

Congratulations Tim, is that all of the boxes that came with the kit? I was just going to post and ask how much space I need to store them. That picture gives me a great reference point. Merry Christmas.

[PNWTim]

Congratulations Tim, is that all of the boxes that came with the kit? I was just going to post and ask how much space I need to store them. That picture gives me a great reference point. Merry Christmas.

That's all the boxes for my particular build. There are no seats, wheels or brakes which would add significant volume to that pile. And Merry Christmas to you as well!

[JimStone]

Congratulations! Let the fun begin!

[TXeverydayDad]

Congratulations! An exciting day!

[PNWTim]

Thanks guys. Yes, it was pretty exciting, still surprised when I go in the garage and it's sitting there. Really looking forward to getting started.

[Namrups]

Welcome to the family!!

[F500guy]

Nice, happy building!

[PNWTim]

Thought I would post an update since my kit arrived yesterday. I have done some fine tuning to my build sheet and getting closer to what I think is a better overall picture:

2025 Gen 4X Coyote Crate Engine and Controls Pack
Gas’n headers and side pipes (probably ceramic coated white)
QuickTime bell housing
Ford Racing billet steel flywheel
Ford Racing / Centerforce dual friction clutch
Tilton 6000 hydraulic throw-out bearing
Tremec Magnum T-56 6-speed transmission (2.66, 1.78, 1.30, 1.00, .80, .63)
3.73 Torsen 2015+ IRS center section (LKQ to the rescue)
QA1 double adjustable coil overs with 600/350# springs (I have the Koni’s as well)
19” wheels – I have been looking at Forgestar, Forgeline, Schott, CCW and Forgiato
Tires – looking at Michelin Pilot 4s, Firestone Firehawk and Toyo
Heater, defroster, and A/C (FF supplied)
Breeze fan shroud
Hydraulic power steering (Thanks Paul)
Manual brakes with kit supplied Wilwood pedal box – Baer or Wilwood, still up in the air on this one
NiCop fuel and brake lines, Pro-M 3/8-inch fuel pump hangar, Trick Flow filter
Full aluminum panel powder coat and key area insulation, possibly Lizard Skin
Moroso expansion tank
Boig Cool Tubes if I can get them (seems like I can)
Specialty Power Windows WWK-2 Universal wiper kit
Bespoke-esque interior (think Singer with touches of E Type)
Nisonger instruments
Heated seats (seats themselves TBD)
i.e.427 Turn Signal
All LED lighting, courtesy lights, backup light
Integrated phone charging and magnetic holder
Drop trunk mod with a hinged cover
Door Poppers from Autoloc
Arcadian/Gulf/Viking blue with white stripes and associated meatballs, markings, the works.

Really going for the “refined comfort race car” if that’s a thing. We’ll see. When I built my previous car, I changed my mind on major details more than once which I am trying to avoid here as it’s time consuming, costly and a general PITA. I have been thinking about this car for quite some time so I think I am well acquainted with what I am shooting for as well as what is out there combined with my skill set. There is an urge to add a lot of bells and whistles but I am trying to walk the line between too little and too much.

For what it’s worth, I have come to the conclusion there is benefit to the waiting period (although moderately agonizing) simply because you can do a deep dive into the smallest of details and consider all options without feeling pressured to move the pile forward. My wait time is pretty short compared to others but I tried to make good use of it.

I have also spent the last couple of weeks trying to organize my garage and make a little space but that’s still a work in progress. More to come.

[lewma]

Congrats!

[460.465USMC]

Wahoo! Early Christmas, indeed! I think you're going to have a blast with this project. Eric also delivered my Coupe. Very helpful guy!

P.S. fantastic color on the Camaro! One of my favorites.

[PNWTim]

Wahoo! Early Christmas, indeed! I think you're going to have a blast with this project. Eric also delivered my Coupe. Very helpful guy!

P.S. fantastic color on the Camaro! One of my favorites.

Yeah, it was pretty exciting to say the least. I think I had an adrenaline hangover in the afternoon :cool:.

Hugger orange is tough to beat for a classic color!

[Dmac800]

Started inventory, I think I got through the first 5 or 6 boxes. My POL is really short, I think 4 or 5 odds and ends.

Was your radiator on your POL? That is the only item that I still don't have.

[PNWTim]

Was your radiator on your POL? That is the only item that I still don't have.

I am only missing 4 or 5 items not shipped and yes, the radiator was one of them. Considering my car came a month and half after yours tells me they must have zippo of those units.

[Dmac800]

Thanks for the update. I was just trying to figure out if I needed to call about it. I will wait some more. I am not in a hurry. I am still working on the front suspension.

[PNWTim]

So I finished my inventory today which I thought was actually pretty fun. Didn't find anything missing other than my headliner. I didn't go so far as to test electrical items but everything is there with the exception of a fairly large misunderstanding/oversight on my part. I didn't order the 3.55 pumpkin from FFR since I wanted to install a 3.73 Torsen and they don't offer it. Well, unbeknownst to me, if you don't order the diff you don't get the spindles or hubs which in retrospect seems kind of silly since I purchased the IRS kit. So now I need to source those from the aftermarket but need to figure out exactly what I need.

If anyone knows the specifics of the knuckles and hubs I would appreciate it. Thanks in advance.

[460.465USMC]

Hi Tim. Here's a couple pictures of the part numbers for the IRS hub and knuckle. This is from my Roadster build, circa 2020. But, I got the same parts for my current Coupe build, so this should get you there.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207403&d=1733887636


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207404&d=1733887636

[PNWTim]

Hi Tim. Here's a couple pictures of the part numbers for the IRS hub and knuckle. This is from my Roadster build, circa 2020. But, I got the same parts for my current Coupe build, so this should get you there.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207403&d=1733887636


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207404&d=1733887636

Awesome Chris, thank you so much!

[edwardb]

So I finished my inventory today which I thought was actually pretty fun. Didn't find anything missing other than my headliner. I didn't go so far as to test electrical items but everything is there with the exception of a fairly large misunderstanding/oversight on my part. I didn't order the 3.55 pumpkin from FFR since I wanted to install a 3.73 Torsen and they don't offer it. Well, unbeknownst to me, if you don't order the diff you don't get the spindles or hubs which in retrospect seems kind of silly since I purchased the IRS kit. So now I need to source those from the aftermarket but need to figure out exactly what I need.

If anyone knows the specifics of the knuckles and hubs I would appreciate it. Thanks in advance.

Too bad about the misunderstanding. In the kit description "Optional 2015 IRS Parts Needed" IRS knuckles/hubs are listed, and the optional part number 16668 on the order form lists Center Section, Spindles, and Hubs. Lots of details to sort through, so probably won't be your first surprise. :p The information you received is correct. Ford Performance sells the parts as M-5970-M. Since they have the main bearings for the rear axles, I'd recommend getting new. Shop around. There are some discounted prices out there.

[MSumners]

I don’t recall exactly if this is the “knuckle”, thought it is.
Extra , new , passenger side.
Yours for shipping if you need it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207409&d=1733890049

[PNWTim]

I don’t recall exactly if this is the “knuckle”, thought it is.
Extra , new , passenger side.
Yours for shipping if you need it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207409&d=1733890049

I really appreciate the offer. Yes, that is the knuckle but based on some quick research I did after Chris sent me the part numbers I think they only sell them in pairs.

[PNWTim]

Too bad about the misunderstanding. In the kit description "Optional 2015 IRS Parts Needed" IRS knuckles/hubs are listed, and the optional part number 16668 on the order form lists Center Section, Spindles, and Hubs. Lots of details to sort through, so probably won't be your first surprise. :p The information you received is correct. Ford Performance sells the parts as M-5970-M. Since they have the main bearings for the rear axles, I'd recommend getting new. Shop around. There are some discounted prices out there.

Thanks Paul. Truth be told, I found the ordering process somewhat ambiguous. The descriptions are a little generic and without your previous experience it's kind of hard to tell what you're getting or not. When I did my inventory over the last two days I was surprised I was shipped an accelerator pedal and throttle linkage even though I ordered the Coyote kit. You are absolutely correct in that the description says Center Section, Spindles and Hubs but I think at that point I was lost in the weeds.

It would be nice if the ordering process was a little more interactive in the sense that if you select the IRS it warns you to order the pumpkin and etc. I had somewhat the same issue with the power steering. If you hadn't told me I wouldn't have known the KRC stuff came with it. Live and learn I guess.

[JimStone]

Yeah, this forum is a mandatory secondary instruction manual. I can't image trying to do this without the forum.

[PNWTim]

So, I recently gave up on the idea of the 3.73 Torsen used center section. I have been shopping for 3 months and haven't found one with less than 25,000 miles. I know that isn't much in the big picture but made the command decision to go with a new 3.55 limited slip (I know, I give up some of that lower end zip but start with all new). I needed to order knuckles anyways so put together an order and received it yesterday. Unfortunately, the boneheads that shipped it took the Ford Racing box and laid it on it's side in the over pack box and most if not all of the gear oil and friction modifier leaked out and made a significant mess.

So my question is, after I clean up all the stink, I am thinking I will top off with maybe 1.5 ozs FM and the remainder gear oil, bring it to within 9 mm of the plug and call it good. I am thinking it is going to take at least a pint and half if not two based on the amount that was released. Does anyone see anything wrong with this?

[F500guy]

Hi Tim, I may have the part bottle of gear oil if you get the Ford part. Let me check before you buy, free to a good home!

[PNWTim]

Hi Tim, I may have the part bottle of gear oil if you get the Ford part. Let me check before you buy, free to a good home!

I really appreciate the offer. I am negotiating with the company I purchased from and they may just change the entire unit out so I guess we'll see. Not sure how they can afford the double shipping but who knows? Should have an idea by Monday.

[Just 1 More]

How's the build coming along?

[PNWTim]

How's the build coming along?

Haven't really done anything but get more organized and figure out my plan. My son is coming home for the holiday so probably going to make a little progress this next week. Planning on taking the body off, storing it away and removing all the aluminum. I will probably start painting and assembling the suspension and steering shortly thereafter.

[PNWTim]

Well, not a lot going on with the holidays, family home and what not but what the title says is essentially what I have been doing. I wasn't really planning on diving into the build full time until late January/February as I am trying to collect most of my items, organize my shop and attempt to finish a build on a '74 Triumph motorcycle. I have been researching, purchasing odds and ends and primarily trying to be prepared to jump into the deep end beginning with the new year. I have received my replacement center section that is not covered in gear oil as well as my knuckles so we can take those off the punch list.

I have spent a lot of time reading this fine piece of literature. Between the forum and the manual it pretty much covers it all. I wish they would offer a version with no donor parts section as it's 140 pages but I guess we can't have everything:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208200&d=1735504903

I did manage to remove the body for storage and built a cart for the frame so I can move it around or get it out of my way as need:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208186&d=1735493767

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208188&d=1735493767

Also, on another note, looks like I am receiving my radiator tomorrow so that crosses off all but two items on my POL and I had one item (headliner) on my MIK which has already been sent. Pretty solid customer service and support if you ask me. I do have one question for the team though. The two items I mention above are here:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208211&d=1735517037

I would've thought these would be created along with the kit but maybe not? I haven't called FF yet to ask but I thought it was odd. That's it for now, carry on!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/album.php?albumid=2550&attachmentid=208193

[JimStone]

They send out the certificate of origin and nameplate in the mail later so you don't accidentally throw it away when unboxing your kit

[PNWTim]

They send out the certificate of origin and nameplate in the mail later so you don't accidentally throw it away when unboxing your kit

That makes a lot of sense. I must have missed that info in the early stages. I will keep an eye out - do you know how long after receiving the car I should expect them?

[JimStone]

I think I got mine two weeks later, I could be misremembering though

[edwardb]

My experience with the Certificate of Origin is that it's sent once the kit and all backorders are complete. Seems it's their way of closing out the order. It's been a couple years (last one was the 35 Truck) so maybe they've changed something. But that's what they did with mine. Either way, it's typically NOT sent at the same time as the kit and will show on your backorder list (POL) until it's sent.

[PNWTim]

My experience with the Certificate of Origin is that it's sent once the kit and all backorders are complete. Seems it's their way of closing out the order. It's been a couple years (last one was the 35 Truck) so maybe they've changed something. But that's what they did with mine. Either way, it's typically NOT sent at the same time as the kit and will show on your backorder list (POL) until it's sent.

And that makes sense as well. I have a FedEx shipment scheduled for delivery tomorrow and at 22 lbs I am assuming it's my Radiator (which is the last item on my POL) or an enormous box of chocolate. With the previous shipment of my one MIK piece that should close it all out so I will keep my eyes peeled.

[Windsor]

One other comment FWIW. I saw in another thread a discussion about metric vs. SAE studs for the IRS. Comments were the metric studs are larger (they are slightly) and to ream out the SN95 front hubs and use metric there. Replacing the previous Ford standard 1/2-20 studs. Obviously, do what you want. But keep in mind these builds are 1000 lbs or more lighter than the Mustang where the IRS center section and knuckles/hubs come from. There have been zero reports of any issues with the SAE studs on the IRS option from FF. Including builds that are dedicated track cars. Many builds seem to make a lot out of swapping the studs in the IRS hubs. I found they knock out pretty easily. I pull them in with a stack of lubricated washers, a sacrificial hardened nut (don't use the lug nuts), and a pneumatic impact wrench. Probably the easiest and best approach is with a hydraulic press. I've threatened to buy one more than once but have resisted. If you don't have one, your local machine shop can do it and the cost is apparently quite low. ...while installing spacers.

I have a question on this.

If you're installing spacers, why go to the effort of pressing out the metric studs? Just use SAE studs (to match the front spindles) in the spacers.

I must be missing something here.

[460.465USMC]

I have spent a lot of time reading this fine piece of literature. Between the forum and the manual it pretty much covers it all. I wish they would offer a version with no donor parts section as it's 140 pages but I guess we can't have everything:


Hey Tim. I'm sure you've already considered this, but the electronic version of the build manual makes it easier to skip past those 140 pages. Not to mention the utility of being able to do a word search. Plus, when they update the manual, you can request the latest version for no charge. I bought mine for $10. Well worth it, IMHO.

[PNWTim]

Hey Tim. I'm sure you've already considered this, but the electronic version of the build manual makes it easier to skip past those 140 pages. Not to mention the utility of being able to do a word search. Plus, when they update the manual, you can request the latest version for no charge. I bought mine for $10. Well worth it, IMHO.

Great call out Chris. I was sent two digital manuals when I first ordered my car - one was revision 4Q and the final one was 4Z. I have used it extensively but I am kind of "paper in the hand" sort (especially in the shop) so I bookmark past that section and go my merry way.

Interestingly enough, they don't call out what the revisions are and I couldn't find them so they must be somewhat subtle? Or I don't have enough familiarity to spot them easily.

[PNWTim]

I have a question on this.

If you're installing spacers, why go to the effort of pressing out the metric studs? Just use SAE studs (to match the front spindles) in the spacers.

I must be missing something here.

I am probably not the best person to answer this but if I had to guess it was simply for uniformity/consistency. And this dialogue is actually referring to another builder of an R Type and I am not sure he was using spacers but it's a good question.

[460.465USMC]

Great call out Chris. I was sent two digital manuals when I first ordered my car - one was revision 4Q and the final one was 4Z. I have used it extensively but I am kind of "paper in the hand" sort (especially in the shop) so I bookmark past that section and go my merry way.

Interestingly enough, they don't call out what the revisions are and I couldn't find them so they must be somewhat subtle? Or I don't have enough familiarity to spot them easily.

Sounds like I need to contact F5 for the latest revision, as mine is 4W. It's marked at the top of the second page.

[PNWTim]

Sounds like I need to contact F5 for the latest revision, as mine is 4W. It's marked at the top of the second page.

madison@factoryfive.com sent me the latest revision

[PNWTim]

This is going to sound a bit silly but is my coupe # the last three digits as listed on the certificate of origin? Mine I believe is #620. Can anyone confirm if this is correct?

[Namrups]

Your right. Mine is 393.

[PNWTim]

As part of my seat and cruise control investigation I have been keeping my eye out for used seats to test fit. I also don't mind if they are used as I am going to reupholster anyways. Was lucky enough to find a guy parting out a C5 Corvette (these are pretty popular with that crowd). Pretty good condition and about half the price of new. Also came with sliders and lumbar support.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208861&d=1736472806

I figure I may practice a little cutting and welding on the supports to see what I can come up with. They need the seatbelt anchor cut off as well.

[PNWTim]

So I have come full circle on the center section. Not to go into too much detail but I went through two separate orders of a new 3.55 differential and ended up returning them both. In frustration before ordering a third I did a quick search and what do you know? 3.73 Torsen out of a 2024 GT with 14K miles. For those of you that have been following along, you know that I had abandoned the search in early December because I couldn't find one with less than 40K miles. It was $20 less than the 3.55 so I bit the bullet and ordered it. It showed up yesterday so I am pretty happy.

It's interesting to note, I didn't know these cars have differential coolers. There is one additional tapped boss on the back plate for the return hose(the fitting in the middle). I have confirmed that dimensionally this is the same unit as the 3.55 version, it just has some performance adds depending on what model it was installed in. I am hoping they haven't changed or modified the pinion yoke but I guess I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. I will try and compare it to some photos on the forum to try and verify. Needs some clean up and paint but otherwise it is in decent shape.

209449

209452

[Kbl7td]

The yoke will be diff from manual VS auto.

[edwardb]

The yoke will be diff from manual VS auto.

In the past, FF had the required adapter for either. Shouldn't be an issue. The diff looks good. Super happy with the Torsen diff in my Coupe. Good to hear you found one. Coolers were used on some performance packages. Shouldn't be required for normal street use. Hasn't been an issue on mine. I've seen a couple of track builds where they were installed.

[Kbl7td]

They do, yellow zinc vs regular. The holes wont be drastically different until you try to put in a few bolts.

You’ll likely be happier with the 3.73 as the coyote isn’t exactly a torque monster, should give you some more oomph down low.

[PNWTim]

The yoke will be diff from manual VS auto.

The dismantler description stated it came out of a manual transmission car so it should be "standard" to us.

[PNWTim]

Good news is the supplied adapter with my kit fits:

209503

I am going to go ahead and replace the half shaft seals as well. One appears to have been leaking but hard to tell since wrecking yards tend to get carried away with their pressure washing. I wouldn't think these would be leaking in a 2024 with 14K miles but I guess you never know. Either way, inexpensive "upgrade" and easy to do while on the bench.

[PNWTim]

I know this is probably a long shot but thought I would throw it out there. My used seats came with brackets for a C6. After comparing them to Corbeau's website it looks like they us a generic frame and then customize the locations of the risers to suit a given vehicle. I think I can make them work but here's my ask:

Can anyone provide feedback on how high the frame should be off the floor? These have rake to the rear and are about 2.5 inches high in the front and maybe 1 inch in the rear. I can cut and weld as needed, relocate the risers and make sure they bolt through the floor in the appropriate locations. The sliders are bolted tight to the seats and only add about 3/4" of overall height. Any feedback would be appreciated.

209643

[burchfieldb]

The back bottom of my Sparcos seats almost touch the floor. There is a balance between seeing over the dash and where your head lands relative to the side roll bar. I was trying to keep my head from hitting the side bar when sitting in them. I also had to cut some of the body, by the door, to get them to sit back far enough.

[PNWTim]

The back bottom of my Sparcos seats almost touch the floor. There is a balance between seeing over the dash and where your head lands relative to the side roll bar. I was trying to keep my head from hitting the side bar when sitting in them. I also had to cut some of the body, by the door, to get them to sit back far enough.

Thanks for the response. I have reviewed Paul B's. build thread extensively and I think his seats are the same way. Essentially sitting flat on the floor and using the built in reclination of the seat instead of anything built into the mounting brackets. I think I may just cut the risers off the brackets and work backwards until I find the sweet spot. I am not sure where the seat will land in relation to the harness mounts either.

[PNWTim]

This is a bit of a hodge podge update. I am finally in the home stretch of my Triumph TR5T build. I committed to finishing this before becoming all consumed with the Coupe. Need to install the exhaust and plumb the fuel lines but probably ready for first start this week. A picture for proof and posterity:

209740

Now on to the Coupe! I actually installed my very first piece today with the steering rack. Pretty straightforward but a couple of comments. I am going to powdercoat the retainer bracket (along with many other pieces) but before I do so I am going to hollow out a half moon to clear the steering rack tube so it's not sawing on the sharp edge of the bracket for the next how ever many years:

209741

I also am curious if anyone is aware if there is a separate inventory sheet for this item:

209743

I am asking because after searching twice, I was unable to locate 1/2" grade 8 washers and nuts for the steering rack bolts. Most of the other sub-boxes with multiple components had additional inventories but I couldn't find one for the hardware pack. So, off to Ace this morning and picked up the washers and nuts and loosely installed them. I also installed the zerks on the Moog tie rod ends a la edwardB but opted to not install the Energy Suspension boots since the Moog boots were quite well fastened on (maybe crimped with an internal wire?) and they were logoed so I stuck with them. For anyone interested, the zerks are 7 mm.

209744

And so there is actually proof I did something:
209745

Carry On!

[edwardb]

Away you go! FYI, the Energy Suspension polyurethane boots will greatly outlast the rubber boots. Plus they're a lot stronger. Those are the reasons to switch them out. Your choice though.

[PNWTim]

Away you go! FYI, the Energy Suspension polyurethane boots will greatly outlast the rubber boots. Plus they're a lot stronger. Those are the reasons to switch them out. Your choice though.

I had every intention of doing so but the rubber boots are really anchored on there. I couldn't decide how aggressive to go with a screwdriver, etc. to remove them. I have the poly boots, just didn't install. I will take another look.

[burchfieldb]

Tim, these are the lists that I got from Dave at FFR.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209746&d=1738098304
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209749&d=1738098760
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209748&d=1738098304

As for the tube on the steering rack, I was able to flex it enough to provide clearance without having to cut the bracket.

[PNWTim]

Tim, these are the lists that I got from Dave at FFR.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209746&d=1738098304
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209749&d=1738098760
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209748&d=1738098304

As for the tube on the steering rack, I was able to flex it enough to provide clearance without having to cut the bracket.

Good info, thanks. I don't think they actually include the 1/2" nuts and washers in grade 8. Although I doubt it matters, I am not a fan of mixing and matching grade 5 and 8 together. I was going to ask FF to send me the missing pieces but it looks like they supplied them, they are grade 5 (although the manual specifically states they are grade 8). Anyhow, no big deal and I appreciate the list for reference.

[burchfieldb]

Forgot about this one, in case someone wants the bolt grades for the IRS fasteners. I agree, I do not like mixing the grades either. I ended up buying flange nuts, like they show in the manual. I was not a fan of the large fender washers and nylon lock nuts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209752&d=1738104223

[PNWTim]

Engaged in a 2 hour wrestling match today. Got it installed and have to say, nobody on this forum was exaggerating the difficulty of the process. So, so, tight but we got it done. I started the process by reaming out the front mounting ears. This reamer make it a piece of cake. I do think there is some possibility of making the holes off center if your not careful.

209813

Got it squeezed in and frankly was really confused over what hardware to use. I think I used the correct bolts but if I didn't I guess I can buy replacements. I do have one question though - the metal inserts for the front extend out of the poly bushings by about an 1/8th of an inch. I don't understand why this is so? They could easily be the correct length and still function correctly so if anyone knows the reason for this or if I did something wrong please let me know.

209814

Close up of the bushing in question. Both sides are identical:

209815

[edwardb]

That gap is apparently normal. Many others have reported it and received feedback from FFR that it's OK. As you found out from installing the center section, it's a tight fit. Once bolted in place and all bolts to torque values, it's not going anywhere. My two IRS builders are from several years ago and didn't have that. But either FFR or Ford changed a bit since then. Not to worry.

[Jphoenix]

Mine is the same. The real disappointing news is if you have the rear sway bar - I just learned I must remove those lower IRS bolts again to install the sway bar mounts. Should be easier second time around - I hope.

I wish FFR would have made a note in the build manual regarding this. Also, the only instructions for installing the sway bars are on the Instructions page of the FFR parts page, and only for the Roadster, so you have to use those instructions for the Coupe sway bars.

[460.465USMC]

Close up of the bushing in question. Both sides are identical:

209815

Both of my IRS builds have been like you showed. Like others noted above, I think you're good.

I couldn't agree more, it's a fight to get it up in there, especially if you're working solo (like yours truly). Congrats! One of your first milestones in the build completed!

[PNWTim]

Mine is the same. The real disappointing news is if you have the rear sway bar - I just learned I must remove those lower IRS bolts again to install the sway bar mounts. Should be easier second time around - I hope.

I wish FFR would have made a note in the build manual regarding this. Also, the only instructions for installing the sway bars are on the Instructions page of the FFR parts page, and only for the Roadster, so you have to use those instructions for the Coupe sway bars.

Jim, thanks for the heads up. I actually opted for only a front sway bar based on feedback from a couple of coupe owners. I can honestly say, if I had to pull those lower bolts out to install it I would probably reconsider regardless. But you are correct, there should be a footnote or something in the manual that says "in the event you are.....".

[PNWTim]

Both of my IRS builds have been like you showed. Like others noted above, I think you're good.

I couldn't agree more, it's a fight to get it up in there, especially if you're working solo (like yours truly). Congrats! One of your first milestones in the build completed!

It certainly felt like a milestone! I was lucky and had my son to help me so that was a blessing.

It's definitely one of those "a little bit up, a little bit forward, now a little bit down, now a little...".

[PNWTim]

That gap is apparently normal. Many others have reported it and received feedback from FFR that it's OK. As you found out from installing the center section, it's a tight fit. Once bolted in place and all bolts to torque values, it's not going anywhere. My two IRS builders are from several years ago and didn't have that. But either FFR or Ford changed a bit since then. Not to worry.

Thanks Paul. It's definitely not going anywhere, for sure. I just don't understand why the insert isn't simply flush. Such a basic thing and they are cutting those bushings so why would it be intentionally cut long? I am not an engineer but details like that baffle me.

[Kbl7td]

Because you don’t want the bolt/washer on the rubber. It’s designed to be tight on the bushing. The bushing to rubber then is what gives it a tiny bit of flex.

[burchfieldb]

Mine is the same way also. If you ever have to do it again on your own, an engine hoist and some ratchet straps work well. I also used some ratchet straps between the back of the frame and the mounts to pull the rear mounts back some.

[Jphoenix]

Jim, thanks for the heads up. I actually opted for only a front sway bar based on feedback from a couple of coupe owners. I can honestly say, if I had to pull those lower bolts out to install it I would probably reconsider regardless. But you are correct, there should be a footnote or something in the manual that says "in the event you are.....".

My mistake, the sway bar mount actually goes through the lower control arm - the photo in the instructions is not very clear - but it becomes clear once under the car. Thank heaven I don't have to remove those IRS mount bolts!!

[PNWTim]

This post is a two parter - first is a question re: seating of the ball joint. I am using the Mevotech FF supplied ball joints and curious if this is as far as they thread in? They aren't threaded all the way to the top so I am assuming this is the case but if someone could please verify I would appreciate. Not sure if you can tell from the picture but the gap is about 3/32. The last 1/8" of the ball joint (towards the top) is unthreaded, smooth metal making it seem unlikely it would thread any further.

209910

Threaded in all the way - I think
209911

And now to question(s) two. I know many on the forums opt to purchase the Howe Racing ball joints due to a real or perceived issue with threading in the Mevotech units. I like to try and use the supplied parts when it makes sense and in this case I thought it did. I was able to thread in the first one pretty much all the way by hand. No problem, piece of cake. But now on to the second one. 1 to 1 1/2 threads and full stop. No passing go, no collecting anything but barked knuckles. I chucked a wire brush in my Dremel and stripped all the powdercoat/paint from both the control arm and ball joint. Earned maybe an additional half turn. So, my questions are these: is this just ball joint roulette or is there a methodology to getting these things put together? I don't really want to spend $200 on the Howe units but I am also not going to fight these for several hours. If anyone has any insight, learnings or wisdom they can impart, I would greatly appreciate it.

[burchfieldb]

This post is a two parter - first is a question re: seating of the ball joint. I am using the Mevotech FF supplied ball joints and curious if this is as far as they thread in? They aren't threaded all the way to the top so I am assuming this is the case but if someone could please verify I would appreciate. Not sure if you can tell from the picture but the gap is about 3/32. The last 1/8" of the ball joint (towards the top) is unthreaded, smooth metal making it seem unlikely it would thread any further.

209910

Threaded in all the way - I think
209911

And now to question(s) two. I know many on the forums opt to purchase the Howe Racing ball joints due to a real or perceived issue with threading in the Mevotech units. I like to try and use the supplied parts when it makes sense and in this case I thought it did. I was able to thread in the first one pretty much all the way by hand. No problem, piece of cake. But now on to the second one. 1 to 1 1/2 threads and full stop. No passing go, no collecting anything but barked knuckles. I chucked a wire brush in my Dremel and stripped all the powdercoat/paint from both the control arm and ball joint. Earned maybe an additional half turn. So, my questions are these: is this just ball joint roulette or is there a methodology to getting these things put together? I don't really want to spend $200 on the Howe units but I am also not going to fight these for several hours. If anyone has any insight, learnings or wisdom they can impart, I would greatly appreciate it.

Mine seats all the way.

209928

I had to put the ball joint in the vice and use the arm to install and seat it, per FFR.

[PNWTim]

Mine seats all the way.

209928

I had to put the ball joint in the vice and use the arm to install and seat it, per FFR.

Thanks. I just went back out to the shop and tried the freezer and heat. I got it halfway in but stopped dead. Guess I will keep trying. Might try swapping them side to side just to see if there is any difference.

[burchfieldb]

I would reach out to FFR if you can't get it resolved. I am not sure of the root cause, maybe the threaded part gets distorted during welding? Do you have a machine shop close by?

[PNWTim]

I would reach out to FFR if you can't get it resolved. I am not sure of the root cause, maybe the threaded part gets distorted during welding? Do you have a machine shop close by?

I am not sure what the issue is but it seems to be fairly arbitrary and random based on the threads I have read. One threaded nearly the entire way by hand, the other went one turn. If I had to guess, both are probably machined to pretty close tolerances with a plus or minus. If you end up with a male and female pair erring on the opposite ends of the ranges they won't go together. I had to walk away yesterday before I launched one over the fence but I am going to try swapping and see if I can split the difference.

Unfortunately, no machine shop close by. I will probably purchase Moog replacements for $40 if I can't get them to go today.

[burchfieldb]

I am not sure what the issue is but it seems to be fairly arbitrary and random based on the threads I have read. One threaded nearly the entire way by hand, the other went one turn. If I had to guess, both are probably machined to pretty close tolerances with a plus or minus. If you end up with a male and female pair erring on the opposite ends of the ranges they won't go together. I had to walk away yesterday before I launched one over the fence but I am going to try swapping and see if I can split the difference.

Unfortunately, no machine shop close by. I will probably purchase Moog replacements for $40 if I can't get them to go today.

Lol, I know that feeling! Probably for the best if you can't get them to go in, it would likely may it easier to replace later on. I did use the recommend red loctite, maybe that added some lubrication to help it thread in and not bind.

[PNWTim]

Trying for a quick win after losing the battle with the ball joints. Made a "crib" to support the hub out of 1" black pipe while I drove out the studs. I had intended to press them out with my vise but that was a non-starter for me. Supported the hub on the back anvil of the vice and after a couple sharp raps they popped right out.

209988

Ran the new studs in using a couple of extra thick grade 8 washers, grease and two lugs nuts

209990

Not terribly exciting but progress is progress.

[Peter Ross]

This post is a two parter - first is a question re: seating of the ball joint. I am using the Mevotech FF supplied ball joints and curious if this is as far as they thread in? They aren't threaded all the way to the top so I am assuming this is the case but if someone could please verify I would appreciate. Not sure if you can tell from the picture but the gap is about 3/32. The last 1/8" of the ball joint (towards the top) is unthreaded, smooth metal making it seem unlikely it would thread any further.

209910

Threaded in all the way - I think
209911

And now to question(s) two. I know many on the forums opt to purchase the Howe Racing ball joints due to a real or perceived issue with threading in the Mevotech units. I like to try and use the supplied parts when it makes sense and in this case I thought it did. I was able to thread in the first one pretty much all the way by hand. No problem, piece of cake. But now on to the second one. 1 to 1 1/2 threads and full stop. No passing go, no collecting anything but barked knuckles. I chucked a wire brush in my Dremel and stripped all the powdercoat/paint from both the control arm and ball joint. Earned maybe an additional half turn. So, my questions are these: is this just ball joint roulette or is there a methodology to getting these things put together? I don't really want to spend $200 on the Howe units but I am also not going to fight these for several hours. If anyone has any insight, learnings or wisdom they can impart, I would greatly appreciate it.

Before I installed the driver side ball joint I set up a wire brush in a drill to completely remove powder coating from male and female threads. I put red loctite on the threads and started threading the ball joint. It did not just thread right in by hand. Loaded the control arm in the vise and tightened it with a BA wrench until it would not turn. It looked exactly like your unseated ball joint. I was as frustrated as you and went back to work on other shop projects. I needed the drill. I grabbed the drill and realized the new wire brush still looked new. The parts had not been wire brushed and I drove the coating power (coating flakes) into the female threads either galling the thread or creating a thickened red loctite bond. My wife would call that senior moment,"slippage" (:-)
I bought another control arm and ball joint from FFR fearing the part was toast. They're down the road and it was a good excuse to visit. Wire brushing the ball joint and control arm allowed the ball joints to twist in with minimal effort.
I purchased a tool a few years ago to remove rusted bolts, Solary induction heater. I put the "damaged" control arm in the vise and wrapped the supplied element around the ball joint and heated it until it started to smoke. That thing actually came out with a bit of effort. Both ball joint and control arm threads were toast.

[PNWTim]

Before I installed the driver side ball joint I set up a wire brush in a drill to completely remove powder coating from male and female threads. I put red loctite on the threads and started threading the ball joint. It did not just thread right in by hand. Loaded the control arm in the vise and tightened it with a BA wrench until it would not turn. It looked exactly like your unseated ball joint. I was as frustrated as you and went back to work on other shop projects. I needed the drill. I grabbed the drill and realized the new wire brush still looked new. The parts had not been wire brushed and I drove the coating power (coating flakes) into the female threads either galling the thread or creating a thickened red loctite bond. My wife would call that senior moment,"slippage" (:-)
I bought another control arm and ball joint from FFR fearing the part was toast. They're down the road and it was a good excuse to visit. Wire brushing the ball joint and control arm allowed the ball joints to twist in with minimal effort.
I purchased a tool a few years ago to remove rusted bolts, Solary induction heater. I put the "damaged" control arm in the vise and wrapped the supplied element around the ball joint and heated it until it started to smoke. That thing actually came out with a bit of effort. Both ball joint and control arm threads were toast.

Thanks Peter. I ordered replacement Moog ball joints today. There are certain things I am willing to futz with but with the track record these things have I just decided I was done with it. I did try switching them side to side this morning but it didn't make any difference. Kind of bummed because I paid for the darn things but I am a firm believer new parts should not go together with this kind of difficulty. I will be very curious to see if the replacements thread right in - I will know Wednesday and report back.

[460.465USMC]

That's a bummer, Tim. I've read about builders encountering this issue for a few years now. Somehow, they went in fairly well on both my builds. But, I did have to use some leverage. I hope your replacements thread right in without a battle.

[PNWTim]

That's a bummer, Tim. I've read about builders encountering this issue for a few years now. Somehow, they went in fairly well on both my builds. But, I did have to use some leverage. I hope your replacements thread right in without a battle.

I know, kind of annoying. I kind of felt like I gave it the old college try too, but no dice. I received the Moog replacements yesterday and they threaded right in so go figure. Like I said previously, seems there is a little "ball joint roulette" going on and I landed on green 00. I even used Erik Treves' technique of freezer on the ball joint and heat gun on the control arm but still didn't cooperate. In the rear view mirror now so moving on. Really enjoying the suspension work, it's like a big erector set (dating myself I know).

[Jphoenix]

Kind of bummed because I paid for the darn things but I am a firm believer new parts should not go together with this kind of difficulty.

This could be a good question for an Ask Dave Anything episode.

[Skuzzy]

Just chiming in to say I had the same problem with the FFR supplied ball joints but the Moog joints just dropped right in.

[PNWTim]

A couple of questions to the team:

What is the thought or consensus on removing the tone rings from the front hubs?

210289

Second question:

I can't seem to locate the spacers for the front shocks. The only spacers I have (or can find) are in this bag and it was packed the the IRS hardware. They are not 5/8" in length so I am assuming they are for the rear which I have not completed as yet. If someone could point me in the right direction on where to find them I would appreciate it.

210290

[burchfieldb]

A couple of questions to the team:

What is the thought or consensus on removing the tone rings from the front hubs?

210289

Second question:

I can't seem to locate the spacers for the front shocks. The only spacers I have (or can find) are in this bag and it was packed the the IRS hardware. They are not 5/8" in length so I am assuming they are for the rear which I have not completed as yet. If someone could point me in the right direction on where to find them I would appreciate it.

210290

I pulled the rings off of mine with a puller. I believe my spacers were in a similar small bag, but I put those on quite a while ago.

[edwardb]

Builder's choice on the tone rings. Unless you're playing with ABS they're just along for the ride. Being the anal type, I remove them. But to be honest, you can't see them once done and they don't hurt anything. The easy way to get them off in my experience is cut a slot between a couple of the teeth with a Dremel cut off wheel. Go pretty deep but (obviously...) not into the hub. Then take a screwdriver that's a tight fit in the slot. A smart rap with a hammer and they will break right off. They're very brittle.

[PNWTim]

Thanks guys, appreciate the feedback. I will go ahead and remove them since I'm not a fan of parts that are "extraneous". I have a feeling my IFS shock spacers are missing. If they are in another bag like the one I showed they are MIA. They weren't in the IFS hardware bag or the box the spindles were in so I guess I will reach out to FF and see what they say.

I think I am still in my 90 day window and those are not inventoried items (as far as I can tell) so hoping they just shoot them out to me.

[PNWTim]

So, I seem to be plagued with spacer gremlins. I eventually found my front shock spacers. I was having a brain cramp and mixing up IFS for IRS and lo and behold, there they were in the correct box. Which leads me to my next question. I went to install my spindles today and realized I need the countersunk spacer identified as item 15803. This goes on the lower ball joint to elevate the castle nut enough for the cotter to engage.

I have reviewed all my inventory pages including the sub-inventories for the fastener pack and the IRS (even though they are for the front). Nowhere can I find that item listed. If anyone remembers where they happened to find them I would be much obliged. One would think they would be in Box 26 which is where the lower control arms are located but no dice.

[Jphoenix]

I think my spacers were in one of the hardware packs, box 1?

[PNWTim]

I think my spacers were in one of the hardware packs, box 1?

Thanks Jim. I have searched Box 1 and no luck. It's also not listed on the inventory anywhere I can find. I am going to call FF in the morning and ask them where they are typically packed and see what they say.

[PNWTim]

So, I spoke with Dan this morning re: my missing spacers. He told me they are shipped in Box 26 with the lower control arms. I have the zerks, cotter pins, castle nuts and ball joint snap ring but no spacers. Bit of a mystery. Thankfully, he was kind enough to ship a pair out to me so I can button up the front end. He did indicate not to use any old spacer as these are cut from thick wall tubing then drilled with the appropriate taper for the ball joint shaft.

[PNWTim]

I have made a little progress over the last couple of weeks. Lots of research, shopping and fiddling around. I have some good things to report, some odd things to report and a not so great setback.

First the good. A few gratuitous pictures of the completed front and rear suspension:

211429

211424


Did some electronics testing. Went through the driving lights, brake and clutch switches and the fan:

211425


Unfortunately, when I tested the fan I had inconclusive results. I got a lot of hum and about 1 RPM so not sure what to think. I am working under the assumption my 12 volt power supply should be adequate to test it. Any ideas?

211422

I also test mounted the steering linkage. Everything fit well and I was able to put the bearing on the outside of the footwell. There is not a lot of space between the couplers but I am not sure that matters. I can remove the lower shaft if needed as it stands which I am thinking is a good thing.

211423

I also received my Metri-Pack depinning tool today so I fixed my RF harness. I will be sure to check all connections as I go. I'm a little surprised at the QA/QC here but seems to be an ongoing and random issue.

211426

211430

And then last but by no means least, I confirmed my seats are not going to fit. I was hoping since they were take-outs from an older C6 Corvette they were the previous version that Paul B. installed. Unfortunately, they are not. I know Scott (Namrups) managed to use these but I am not sure how. They conflict in more places than I care to indicate. Even tilted and shoved as far to the rear as possible it's a non-starter for me. I'm really bummed as they are quite comfortable but going to go another direction. Intratrim is the lead candidate at this juncture. Since they provide only upholstered seats I need to have a consultation with Robin to see if he can accommodate my design and materials.

[JimStone]

Sorry to hear about your seats not fitting. The Intratrim's sure do look nice though.

I'm not necessarily advocating for it, but I did just go ahead and get Flex-a-Lite 105390 radiator fan. Saw too many people on here have the stock fan give out. Then I put power to the kit fan and it really did sound like a jet turbine spinning up.

Thanks for reminding me, I need to go check my wiring harness for mismatched pins


Edit:
I saw your post the the stock fan is a Maradyne unit. Looked those up and they're not exactly "cheap". Who knows if the Flex-a-Lite will really be more reliable...

[edwardb]

Zooming in on your power supply, it's only rated at 5-7 amps. That's not a lot and very well might not be enough to start your fan. I have a similar one (same brand) but higher amperage. Mine typically buzzes and indicates over current. But maybe yours doesn't. A quick check of your fan on another source, like a car battery, could tell you if the fan is good or not. Agree the stock fans are on the noisy side and there are others that are quieter with sometimes more capacity. But I've used the kit supplied fans on all my builds with no issues. The fan is barely heard, if at all, when the car is running and driving. These cars are a bit noisy if you haven't heard that already. :p

[PNWTim]

Zooming in on your power supply, it's only rated at 5-7 amps. That's not a lot and very well might not be enough to start your fan. I have a similar one (same brand) but higher amperage. Mine typically buzzes and indicates over current. But maybe yours doesn't. A quick check of your fan on another source, like a car battery, could tell you if the fan is good or not. Agree the stock fans are on the noisy side and there are others that are quieter with sometimes more capacity. But I've used the kit supplied fans on all my builds with no issues. The fan is barely heard, if at all, when the car is running and driving. These cars are a bit noisy if you haven't heard that already. :p

Great call out Paul. It did cross my mind that without a relay there might not be enough oomph coming out of that unit as that's what it sounded like. At this time I am not inclined to change out the fan, just need to confirm it works. I am not sure about this but I also have a Power Probe which may suffice to test it. I'll probably research that a bit and see.

I had asked a standalone question on the forum before I ordered my kit re: PWM fan control with the Coyote. Sounds like it's fairly rare in this group but I intend to install one. Between the soft start, lower noise and variable speed it should eliminate fan noise concerns. But, like you said, fan noise is just a little more background music with these cars.

[Namrups]

I had to jury rig both the seat slider and the roadster seat base from Breeze to get the seats to fit. They do not go all the way back to the rear wall but I am only 5'-8" so it works for me. I do have about 3" - 4" of travel and they do rub the roll bar.

[PNWTim]

Sorry to hear about your seats not fitting. The Intratrim's sure do look nice though.

I'm not necessarily advocating for it, but I did just go ahead and get Flex-a-Lite 105390 radiator fan. Saw too many people on here have the stock fan give out. Then I put power to the kit fan and it really did sound like a jet turbine spinning up.

Thanks for reminding me, I need to go check my wiring harness for mismatched pins


Edit:
I saw your post the the stock fan is a Maradyne unit. Looked those up and they're not exactly "cheap". Who knows if the Flex-a-Lite will really be more reliable...

I was actually pretty surprised to find the error in my harness but glad I looked. I didn't check any of the other connections but planning to do so before it leaves the bench.

Like I replied to Paul, if I can confirm the fan is operable (which I am thinking it is) I plan on using it. Interestingly enough your question about the fan prompted me to do a little research and it looks like Maradyne is a North American subsidiary of DCM - Taz.

https://maradynehp.com/about-us/

I also am going to use a PWM controller to manage the jet engine throttle on the fan to make it a little more manageable. It's an easy add and I have really appreciated it in my other build.

[PNWTim]

I had to jury rig both the seat slider and the roadster seat base from Breeze to get the seats to fit. They do not go all the way back to the rear wall but I am only 5'-8" so it works for me. I do have about 3" - 4" of travel and they do rub the roll bar.

Thanks Scott. I knew you had gotten them to work and I'm glad they do. I would be really curious at the dimensional changes between ours and Paul's setup. Seems like they simply widened them a bit top and bottom and maybe slightly changed the recline angle.

[Namrups]

My seats are about 1" wider than Pauls and the slider is 3/4" higher than Pauls. Not a big difference but enough to cause issues.

[Infinitybox]

Good luck, nice build Tim. If I can be of any help or answer questions about our system let me know as it would be a great addition to your car.

www.infinitybox.com

Anthony

[lewma]

go ahead and get Flex-a-Lite 105390 radiator fan.

Definitely worth it.

[edwardb]

Great call out Paul. It did cross my mind that without a relay there might not be enough oomph coming out of that unit as that's what it sounded like. At this time I am not inclined to change out the fan, just need to confirm it works. I am not sure about this but I also have a Power Probe which may suffice to test it. I'll probably research that a bit and see.

I had asked a standalone question on the forum before I ordered my kit re: PWM fan control with the Coyote. Sounds like it's fairly rare in this group but I intend to install one. Between the soft start, lower noise and variable speed it should eliminate fan noise concerns. But, like you said, fan noise is just a little more background music with these cars.

A relay in the circuit wouldn't change anything on the fan test from that power supply. Neither would a Power Probe unless you attached it to a higher current device. I use a Power Probe too and like it it. I clip it to a car battery when I'm using it. That's still the power source I'd suggest to confirm your fan's operation. I put a PWM fan controller on my 20th Anniversary Roadster with the Gen 2 Coyote mainly because Ford Performance had the PCM calibrated to where the fan never shut off once the engine reached even normal operating temp. The controller fixed that. The Gen 3 in my Coupe works the way it should so nothing additional there. Plus it has A/C which adds a bit of complexity to the fan circuit because of the trinary switch.

[PNWTim]

I have made some progress over the last few days. I have been testing, trimming, drilling and mounting panels. I found most of them fit fairly well but if you are concerned about the edges being parallel with the frame bars, etc. it takes a bit of fitting to get just right.

211803
211804

Going to remove all the panels for prep to go to the powder coater and also free up some Clecos so I can do the radiator surround and fan/fan shroud. Once those are complete I will send the lot. I haven't quite figured out if there are other panels I should be including but these should encompass all the engine bay panels. I am going with a different color than the remainder of my panels so I'm trying to make sure I include them all in my first batch. I know there are some wings or outriggers that may be visible with the hood up so I will need to double check on those.

[PNWTim]

I also started on the fuel tank assembly and was a little confused by the fact both locking rings for the fuel pump hanger and sending unit came with a round style o-ring and a flat style (rectangular in cross section) ring. I am inclined to use the round ones but wonder why it comes with both? The picture below shows the round sectioned one in the groove and the square sectioned one next to it.

211805

[burchfieldb]

The manual says to use the orings for both. Not sure why it comes with both.

[PNWTim]

Thanks Brent. I saw that as well but it's a little odd they include the others. I would classify them more as a gasket than an O-ring.

[burchfieldb]

My guess is that the pump hanger and sender are generics. When I look up the OEM ones, they have orings.

[PNWTim]

We have been on vacation for a bit but managed to make some headway on the fuel system. I put the tank together, widened the holes on the straps since the 3/8" bolts wouldn't go through and prepped everything for the tank install. I opted for a fuel pump and hanger from Quantum Fuel Systems. I was leaning this direction after a conversation with Blitzboy54 (Jesse) and then had an issue with Pro M which somewhat sealed the deal. It really seems like a quality part and pretty happy with the price. Everything you see in the picture came with the unit. Tested it, received a satisfying hum and popped it in.

212409

I also went to my local dealer and picked up this little gem based on recommendations from, well, everyone:

212407

I also picked up the Breeze oversize vent setup and popped it in as well. Tested the fuel level sender and all is good to go. Just waiting to be lifted into position:

212408

I do have a question though. I did not see anything in the manual about adding any kind of rub strip/anti-squeak around the perimeter of the tank lip. Perhaps I missed it or this isn't a concern? Any feedback would be appreciated.

[edwardb]

I do have a question though. I did not see anything in the manual about adding any kind of rub strip/anti-squeak around the perimeter of the tank lip. Perhaps I missed it or this isn't a concern? Any feedback would be appreciated.

Mine only contacted the frame along the back edge. I did put an EPDM foam strip that edge. https://www.mcmaster.com/1566N211/. I have no idea whether it's really needed, but made me feel better. You're the only other builder that I've seen who also mentioned it.

[burchfieldb]

I put foam gasket material around mine as well where it touched off on the frame. I wanted to avoid having the tank wear the paint off the frame from vibration.

[8secDuster]

I did as well. Applied the adhesive side to the frame. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CLXMHPKR?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

[PNWTim]

OK, thanks guys. I am just not a big fan of metal on metal situations like this. Needed or not, I don't think it will hurt and it's cheap insurance.

[burchfieldb]

Looks like the frame rail or the mounts are off.

[PNWTim]

I have spent the last couple of weeks mounting all the engine bay aluminum and getting it to fit they way I want. I am planning on powder coating all of my engine bay panels white and the demarcation line between the black frames and the panels needs to be as good as I can get them. Trying to ensure the lines are parallel and just at the edge of the radius. This has required I trim several of the panels. Working off a tip I received from Brent B. AKA @burchfieldb I trimmed most of the panels with my track saw fitted with an aluminum cutting blade. This picture shows me trimming about an 1/8" off the top of the radiator panel:

212738

I also have filled the random tek screw holes with this material. My powder coater says it will survive the heat and the powder should stick to it so we'll see. I have only needed to fill 6 or 7 holes that were out of sync or position:

212740

[JimStone]

I'll be interested to see how the extreme heat JB weld works with powder coating. I assume it would have to be put on after sand blast prep? Otherwise, won't it get eroded away?

Although some coaters don't blast, they use chemicals to etch the material.

[PNWTim]

I am planning on using it before blasting. It shouldn't erode as it's almost like metal when dry. The powder should fill in any imperfections, but I am doing a test panel before pulling the trigger on them. They turn the air pressure down when doing sheet goods so they don't warp them, so that may help. We'll see.

[burchfieldb]

I am also curious to see how this turns out. I was planning on brazing aluminum into the holes, but this could be easier.

[PNWTim]

I am also curious to see how this turns out. I was planning on brazing aluminum into the holes, but this could be easier..

I considered that as well but it's not really one of my skill sets so I'm attempting an easier path. I had never heard of the stuff until a week ago. I should know in about 10 days if it's going to work.

[460.465USMC]

I have spent the last couple of weeks mounting all the engine bay aluminum and getting it to fit they way I want. I am planning on powder coating all of my engine bay panels white and the demarcation line between the black frames and the panels needs to be as good as I can get them. Trying to ensure the lines are parallel and just at the edge of the radius. This has required I trim several of the panels. Working off a tip I received from Brent B. AKA @burchfieldb I trimmed most of the panels with my track saw fitted with an aluminum cutting blade.

Thanks for the tip on the high temp JB Weld. Will be watching to see how it friendly it is to the powder coating process.

Nice solution for the long cuts on your aluminum panels. I've tried a number of things with the tools I have (jig saw, angle grinder), but they're more cave man than what you've got there, requiring not a little file work after the cut. Hmmmm....what excuse can I find to buy a track saw? :p

[PNWTim]

Thanks for the tip on the high temp JB Weld. Will be watching to see how it friendly it is to the powder coating process.

Nice solution for the long cuts on your aluminum panels. I've tried a number of things with the tools I have (jig saw, angle grinder), but they're more cave man than what you've got there, requiring not a little file work after the cut. Hmmmm....what excuse can I find to buy a track saw? :p

For what it's worth, I bought the saw when I was building our outdoor kitchen. I have a pretty complete, higher end woodshop and never really saw the need for a track saw. I knew I was going to need to make some precision cuts for some soffit material so justified buying one at the recommendation of a friend. It is now one of my favorite tools. I also suck at using a worm drive and didn't want to carry sheet goods to my tablesaw all the time. Brent B. was the one that told me about using it for the aluminum. $20 blade change out and off to the races.

I am dropping off two test panels tomorrow so we'll see how it holds up. It sure finished out nicely and is hard as a rock. I tried to force a couple out of the hole with my finger nail and it didn't budge so we'll see. I am assuming they will blast the panels at a relatively low angle to prevent warping so that portion of the process shouldn't be a problem. I was also pleasantly surprised to find out Prismatic has already developed Wimbledon White as a color so I don't have to worry about color matching unless it is too creamy.

[burchfieldb]

I also bought my track saw for wood working projects around the house, it is one of my favorite tools, and the dust collection with wood is really good. I would not hesitate to do it again. Plus you can get more sections of track to adjust for longer length materials.

[PNWTim]

Can anyone see any reason not to mount these like this? I will probably through bolt them and raise the 1st and 3rd to be even with the center after the cover is on. At this stage I am just trial fitting and testing so no harm no foul if there is an obvious reason not to do this.

214036

[Kbl7td]

Other than it being a pain to drill the holes. I did mine like that. But only 2, combined clutch and rears, front brakes on it’s on reservoir.

[PNWTim]

Other than it being a pain to drill the holes. I did mine like that. But only 2, combined clutch and rears, front brakes on it’s on reservoir.

Yeah, if I decide to go this way I will probably clamp them to the outside to mark those holes and then pray a little bit when I punch through the other side.

[burchfieldb]

I did mine that way. Drilled all the way through from the outside, welded the outside closed, ground smooth, then put rivnuts in the inside holes. If you want to use the same trim ring that I have I can give you the center spacing.

[PNWTim]

I did mine that way. Drilled all the way through from the outside, welded the outside closed, ground smooth, then put rivnuts in the inside holes. If you want to use the same trim ring that I have I can give you the center spacing.

Brent - that would be great. I was planning on using the ring whenever it's in production. This was more of a fiddling around to see what fits. On a side note, I really want my reservoirs to be inline/parallel with the top of the aluminum cover. I believe there should be no problem with these at a slight angle is there?

[burchfieldb]

You should be good as long as you keep the fluid level higher than the inlet of the master cylinder

[burchfieldb]

I was thinking about making a plate for the kit that mounts under the frame, that the FFR brakets mount to, to avoid trying to mount to the inside of the frame.

[PNWTim]

I was thinking about making a plate for the kit that mounts under the frame, that the FFR brackets mount to, to avoid trying to mount to the inside of the frame.

I know you had mentioned that and it would be a better solution than what I am currently envisioning.

[slarson]

I was thinking about making a plate for the kit that mounts under the frame, that the FFR brakets mount to, to avoid trying to mount to the inside of the frame.

That's what I did, brackets mount to a piece of angle that mounts to the bottom of the frame, I don't have a great picture though. The tops of the reservoirs sit about an inch above the top of the frame.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175076&d=1668797713

[PNWTim]

That's what I did, brackets mount to a piece of angle that mounts to the bottom of the frame, I don't have a great picture though. The tops of the reservoirs sit about an inch above the top of the frame.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175076&d=1668797713

Thanks - looks great.

[PNWTim]

I finally finished my spring lawn renovation project which took almost a month and aged me by about two decades but I am recovered and diving back into my build. I have been doing a lot of little bits and pieces like the post title says. Mainly test fitting, drilling holes, shopping and trying to think 15 steps ahead. I have dropped off a couple of my engine compartment panels for some test runs on the powder coat and whether or not the JB Weld high temp will work. I should be picking those up this coming Friday or Monday. All of my engine panels are trimmed and drilled so once I figure out my color and hole repair, I will drop them off for finishing.

I have also worked out my fuel arrangement. I opted to place my regulator by the fuel tank to eliminate a redundant return line up to the engine compartment and reduce clutter (there's a lot of it with the Coyote). I am using Earl's Vapor Guard fittings and hoses from the pump to the regulator and back and then 3/8" stainless through the tunnel to the intake. I cut the TrickFlow bracket to fit how I wanted it to fit, redrilled it, and mounted it with nutserts. I will also install my pressure gauge for first start and remove once I have the fuel delivery dialed in. The gauge installs where you can see the tape wrapped plug.

I also laid out the rear light and sender harness. It needs almost 2' removed to fit correctly so doing some loom surgery as I type this.

214137

In between doing this work I was doing some tariff avoidance moves and this arrived a couple of days ago:

214138

I also installed the drop trunk assembly from Snakebite Motorworks. This is really a quality piece and fit well. I used my track saw to cut the opening in the hatch floor panel.

214139

Once that was test fit, I reinstalled the floor panels and drilled everything for eventual final install.

214140

My latest activity is to sort out the various wiring harnesses. I unpacked the RF kit and hung it up to dry and also laid out the Ford Performance Power Block just to see what I was getting myself into. I am thinking some or most of this is going to get reworked once I have a better idea of who's on first and where everything wants to go, needs to go and should go.

214143

214144

And last but not least I test fit and sealed up the A/C evaporator as outlined in the 125 page instruction addendum. I used my interior trim caulking technique to seal the box up. I will aslo be sealing the three nutsert holes in the case to get it as leak proof as I can. Based on all the feedback of current owners and builders, anything we can do to improved the efficiency will be beneficial.

214142
214145

All in all, I'm pretty happy with my progress so far. I need to finish drilling the cockpit panels to wrap up my drilling, trimming, and cleco-ing. For the next couple of weeks, I plan on focusing on wiring layout and routing, as I should have all of my remaining hardware to determine where I want everything to go. I am not planning on completely rebuilding any of the main harnesses, but I am willing to unwrap, shorten, rewrap, etc. as needed. We'll see.

[burchfieldb]

Looking good! When does the engine arrive?

[PNWTim]

Looking good! When does the engine arrive?

Summit Racing says Monday the 26th.

[Smiley]

Looks amazing, good job.

[JimStone]

I've read those A/C instructions at least 3 times and somehow I missed that line about applying silicone.

So thanks for pointing that out

[Jphoenix]

"I finally finished my spring lawn renovation project which took almost a month and aged me by about two decades"

LOL- I know the feeling!! Build looking good Tim!

[PNWTim]

I've read those A/C instructions at least 3 times and somehow I missed that line about applying silicone.

So thanks for pointing that out

It's right in the beginning and I overlooked it as well the first time I reviewed them. That evaporator is so small any reduction in efficiency is going to tell. The nutserts in the sides go all the way through into the case and will do a good job of keeping the upper foot box cool if they aren't sealed up...:p

[lewma]

I've read those A/C instructions at least 3 times and somehow I missed that line about applying silicone.

So thanks for pointing that out

I missed that completely :(

[PNWTim]

This was a bit of chore but I got it in. It didn't really fit like the instructions show but I think close enough. I used 2 nutserts and tapped the frame for the third mounting point. I couldn't really position it any different than I ended up with and have the PS drain nipple clear the frame.

While I had every intention of mounting my heater valve on top of the panel (above the evaporator) I realized I could mount it underneath with two short hoses and the bibs of the other two exiting the sheet metal. I would forgo the bulkhead connector altogether and simply use form fitting grommets. Does anyone see any disadvantage to this? Other than it's a little crowded.

Excuse my fat hand blocking most of the second picture but that's about where I would put it so the short hoses would have a slight bend in them to allow the bibs to exit square to the sheet metal.

214197

214198

214199

[PNWTim]

I just realized I had forgotten the aluminum panel that goes on the inboard side of the PS footbox angles inward from the top frame rail. I believe that will conflict with the valve so this may be a non-starter. My evaporator may have ended up further to the driver's side than it should be but I couldn't see how else it would go and still be able to use the outboard drain nipple.

[slarson]

I just realized I had forgotten the aluminum panel that goes on the inboard side of the PS footbox angles inward from the top frame rail. I believe that will conflict with the valve so this may be a non-starter. My evaporator may have ended up further to the driver's side than it should be but I couldn't see how else it would go and still be able to use the outboard drain nipple.

It worked on mine. Excuse the wires, I haven't dressed anything in yet.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214225&d=1748026538

Your evaporator might me a little farther right than mine though.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214226&d=1748026538

[PNWTim]

It worked on mine. Excuse the wires, I haven't dressed anything in yet.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214225&d=1748026538

Your evaporator might me a little farther right than mine though.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214226&d=1748026538

Thanks for the pictures. I think our boxes are in very similar positions. I haven't had a chance to dig into it today but hopefully will have some time tomorrow.

[PNWTim]

I guess it's time to quit fiddling around and get to work:

214378

[Jphoenix]

Oh boy!!

[JimStone]

Just about the coolest thing that comes in a cardboard box

[PNWTim]

Just about the coolest thing that comes in a cardboard box

I know right? Maybe a close tie with a shoe box full of $100's but I've never stumbled on one of those.

[460.465USMC]

Keep up the good progress, Tim. That way you'll have all the Gen 4 bugs worked out by the time I get to dropping in mine. :p

[PNWTim]

Keep up the good progress, Tim. That way you'll have all the Gen 4 bugs worked out by the time I get to dropping in mine. :p

I'm on it!

[lewma]

I'm on it!

If that's a T56, stick a band clamp, or wrap some safety wire around the shifter boot base to prevent it leaking transmission fluid. Seems like it's a common issue. I only discovered this after transmission fluid was pooling on my rear transmission mount.

Disregard if that is NOT a T56 ;)

mark

[PNWTim]

If that's a T56, stick a band clamp, or wrap some safety wire around the shifter boot base to prevent it leaking transmission fluid. Seems like it's a common issue. I only discovered this after transmission fluid was pooling on my rear transmission mount.

Disregard if that is NOT a T56 ;)

mark

Thanks Mark. It is a T-56. Apparently when you rotate the shifter to the forward position it sits directly above the reverse gear which slings oil almost directly up the boot. Here is a pretty interesting thread which dives into some detail:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/1975748-t56-magnum-shifter-leak.html

[burchfieldb]

It's like Christmas in May! Even more so when you drop it in.

[PNWTim]

Well, it looks like my elegant solution to the DBW conflict may not be as simple as I thought. I had to cut and reweld the triangular bracket for the pedal assembly as mine from FF did not line up. Some have used washers to nudge it out from the frame rail but mine wouldn't line up regardless. Finally welded it this morning and was excited to test fit. As you can surmise, test fit of bracket, excellent. Interference of throttle pedal ear with brake pedal, significant. Here are a couple of pictures:

214942

214943

What's odd about this entire situation is I only moved the acc pedal 1/2". I would think the brake pedal would still travel forward enough to hit the ear in the stock position. Maybe not. I have no practical experience with how the pedals hang, i.e. forward of plumb, plumb or rearwards of plumb and I also am not sure how much the brake pedal travels in its arc during braking.

I think the easy solution is to simply cut the ear off and call it good. It will still leave the steel reinforced center section in place but definitely weakens the overall structure. It also looks like there will be about a 1/32nd gap between the acc pedal and the brake arm which doesn't give me the warm and fuzzies either.

I can't really shift the hanger assembly as it doesn't want to move laterally. If I am missing something obvious, please let me know.

[burchfieldb]

It looks like they cut those ears off per the manual.214954

[PNWTim]

It looks like they cut those ears off per the manual.214954

If that's in there then I definitely missed it. Which is interesting because I read that pretty thoroughly. Thanks Brent.

Edit: I just looked at the installation instructions and although they show they picture you posted above (at the end of acc pedal modification/installation) I don't see where they say to cut that ear off. Either way, it's coming off.

[460.465USMC]

Edit: I just looked at the installation instructions and although they show they picture you posted above (at the end of acc pedal modification/installation) I don't see where they say to cut that ear off. Either way, it's coming off.

Times 2 on trimming that ear. I'm starting that next. Had to trim on my Roadster build. Here's a view of it, but with my own bracket. The supplied F5 accel pedal bracket wouldn't provide the clearances for the DBW connector at the top, etc.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145614&d=1617505480

[PNWTim]

Times 2 on trimming that ear. I'm starting that next. Had to trim on my Roadster build. Here's a view of it, but with my own bracket. The supplied F5 accel pedal bracket wouldn't provide the clearances for the DBW connector at the top, etc.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145614&d=1617505480

Thanks Chris. I think I can make the existing bracket work if I use my spacers. I want to maintain the steel sleeves if at all possible so I have something besides plastic to through bolt.

[PNWTim]

I have been working on 5 or 6 different items over the last couple of weeks. I will kind of break them into the different parts:

Wrapped up the accelerator pedal challenge with some help from the forum. Didn't notice the picture in the manual that shows the top left ear cut off which is the main offender of the brake pedal in the repositioned position. Good to go now. I swapped out my temporary 1/2" plastic spacers with aluminum and clamped it down for final install.

Also spent a couple of days fitting and drilling all the cockpit aluminum. Driver's side finished up:

215043


I also tried out my tubing straightener with the 3/8" stainless. It worked pretty well:
215044

And last but not least I ordered my gauges. I believe when I laid out my build plan I indicated I really wanted to give a nod to early Series 1 and 2 XKE's and their interiors. I wanted to use original Smiths Series 1 gauges but the challenges were somewhat overwhelming. Very expensive, speedometer was analog although I like the look but it would require a $500 converter and the available tachometers only revved to 6K. All not insurmountable but becoming more and more complicated and fiddly the deeper I dug into it.

And then Speedhut to the rescue. I reached out to Rachel with whom I have worked before and inquired about making custom gauges to mimic the original Smiths. Short answer is yes and after several back and forth with proofs, the gauges were approved and should arrive in the next 2 weeks. Here is one of the early proofs:

215042

Really looking forward to see these in hand.

[JimStone]

Those gauges are going to be really neat. Love the Daytona script. I wish I had thought of that.

What color bezel and back lighting are you going with?

I love Speedhut. Great products and their customer service is just so good.

[PNWTim]

Those gauges are going to be really neat. Love the Daytona script. I wish I had thought of that.

What color bezel and back lighting are you going with?

I love Speedhut. Great products and their customer service is just so good.

The bezels are their stealth black, back lighting is vintage white and the blade (needle) is white. I tried to emulate the original Smith gauges as much as they could accommodate. Rachel is super easy to work with and I like the uniform wiring and systematic approach they use with their gauges. I did deviate from most and went with a straight VSS speedometer rather than a GPS.

[burchfieldb]

Those look really nice!

[Smiley]

Looking good Tim

[PNWTim]

Just in case anyone was wondering, these are the majority of the under hood pieces for the Coupe. Just dropped these off to the powder coater today.

215226

[Blitzboy54]

When are you going to take that engine out of the box? Gen 4?


Gauges are sick

[PNWTim]

Engine is uncrated, installing casters on the support bracket tomorrow. It's a Gen4X.

Just got a notice today my gauges shipped and will be here Tuesday. I'm really looking forward to seeing them "live". I pretty much have everything to complete my car at this point so time to get to work.

[PNWTim]

I just thought I would close the loop on the accelerator pedal situation. I ground down the upper corner, trimmed the left ear back as much as I could and installed 1/2" metal spacers. I also bonded a third spacer in a triangular pattern to support the backside. Seems like much ado about nothing at this point but I think it's good to go.

In retrospect, I wouldn't cut the spacers off or the complete ear on the right side of the pedal. I believe the instructions are wrong (maybe predating the space frame) and shouldn't be followed but I will leave it to others to determine if this is correct. Here are a couple of pictures of the finished product:


215452

215453

215459

[460.465USMC]

Thanks for the update, Tim. I also had to shave some of the pedal housing to clear the steering shaft. I was able to get clearance for the DBW connector without spacers. I wonder if that's just a difference between your chassis and mine? It's extremely tight in there, so wouldn't take much chassis variation. I will say removing the pillow block spacers gives quite a bit more clearance away from the steering shaft for the DBW connector and pedal housing. Though there's a tradeoff in steering wheel height. I'll try to show when I update my thread later today or tomorrow.

[Blitzboy54]

Coupe or Roadster, Coyote makes for tight quarters.

[PNWTim]

While waiting for things to come back from the powder coater I have been doing some smaller items that seem to consume a lot of time. I finally got the pedal box formally installed. I had to cut and weld the triangular bracket as it didn't fit from FF. I am an amateur welder at best but it turned out OK. I also had to grind a small scallop in the side of the brake pedal to ensure clearance with the accelerator pedal. I also installed the fuse box support.

215811

I installed the horns using the brackets from Snakebite. Pretty clean installation. You need to make sure you mount them high enough to ensure the horns clear the sway bar.

215813

I received my gauges last week and am pretty happy with how they turned out. This is the second time I have ordered custom gauges from Speedhut and they don't disappoint. Couple of glamour shots of the tach and speedo.

215815
215816

And on an oddball note, I was doing some preassembly of the door frames to measure/test the door poppers I am planning on using. Interesting enough, one of my door latches was missing threads on the middle hole. I went ahead and tapped it so no great obstacle but a little odd none the less.

215817

Hoping to pick up my engine bay panels tomorrow which will really allow me to move some of these piles forward.

[burchfieldb]

Looking good Tim! I really like those gauges, what do the other ones look like?

[PNWTim]

Looking good Tim! I really like those gauges, what do the other ones look like?

These are terrible pictures but I think you get the idea:

215835

215836

[PNWTim]

I am hoping to obtain feedback from other coupe builders on this one. While positioning the dash I noticed if I center it between the roll bars, the end cap mounting pad wants to cover up the last couple of digits on the serial number engraved in the cross bar. If I clamp it where the picture shows, my dash has no gap on the PS rollbar and about 5/8" on the DS. I am also slightly off center of the steering shaft. Is this just something we live with? I can force the centering of the dash but then the end caps get flexed pretty hard and aren't really "square" to the face of the dash. Thanks in advance.

215838

[Papa]

Tim,

Can you trim that mounting tab and still have enough to drill and rivet it in place without covering the serial number?

Dave

[Papa]

Can you share which Quantum Fuel Systems part number you ordered? They have a Walbro pump kit with a 12-month warranty, and a similar kit with a lifetime pump warranty. I went to the Pro-M Racing site to order my go-to hanger until I saw what they want for it these days. No way I'm paying $400 for a pump hanger!!!

[JimStone]

They must have slapped that SN on a little too far to the right. I don't think I have that problem.


By the way, if you're making a custom dash, I'd recommend making sure the steering shaft angle is appropriate for your seats/seating position. I needed to shift the pillow block the left an inch to suit my sitting position.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210446&d=1739506698

[PNWTim]

Tim,

Can you trim that mounting tab and still have enough to drill and rivet it in place without covering the serial number?

Dave

Dave - that's a great idea. I think I can probably shave at least 1/4" and be able to shift the dash an equivalent amount.

[PNWTim]

Can you share which Quantum Fuel Systems part number you ordered? They have a Walbro pump kit with a 12-month warranty, and a similar kit with a lifetime pump warranty. I went to the Pro-M Racing site to order my go-to hanger until I saw what they want for it these days. No way I'm paying $400 for a pump hanger!!!

I purchased this one after a bit of research. A shout out to @BlitzBoy for turning me onto these guys. I actually have a Pro-M hanger through a weird turn of events and comparing the two they look identical. The unit I installed has a 340 LPH Flextech pump. It also has a lifetime warranty.

https://www.highflowfuel.com/fuel-pump-hanger-oem-replacement-hfp-an50-350ft-606-qfs/

[PNWTim]

They must have slapped that SN on a little too far to the right. I don't think I have that problem.


By the way, if you're making a custom dash, I'd recommend making sure the steering shaft angle is appropriate for your seats/seating position. I needed to shift the pillow block the left an inch to suit my sitting position.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210446&d=1739506698

I'm not really making a different shaped dash, just going a different direction with gauge placement, etcetera. Your comment about seat and wheel placement is well noted though. I think it might make me a bit crazy if the pilot, seat and wheel aren't all pointed in a similar direction.

[edwardb]

I am hoping to obtain feedback from other coupe builders on this one. While positioning the dash I noticed if I center it between the roll bars, the end cap mounting pad wants to cover up the last couple of digits on the serial number engraved in the cross bar. If I clamp it where the picture shows, my dash has no gap on the PS rollbar and about 5/8" on the DS. I am also slightly off center of the steering shaft. Is this just something we live with? I can force the centering of the dash but then the end caps get flexed pretty hard and aren't really "square" to the face of the dash. Thanks in advance.


Had to look at mine to remember what I did. Confirmed about half the numbers are covered. I installed the dash with screws vs. rivets. For that tab just a single screw tapped into the relatively thick frame rail. So if viewing the full number is necessary, I would just back out the screw so the whole number could be seen. In Michigan, we have a separate VIN tag installed elsewhere (probably like most states) and the VIN number is a completely different number than the chassis serial number. To date, the only time the serial number was technically required was if the officer doing my inspection wanted to compare my Certificate of Origin to the serial number on the chassis. I offered. He didn't. Cutting back the tab is another option. I wouldn't offset the entire dash just for that.

[PNWTim]

Had to look at mine to remember what I did. Confirmed about half the numbers are covered. I installed the dash with screws vs. rivets. For that tab just a single screw tapped into the relatively thick frame rail. So if viewing the full number is necessary, I would just back out the screw so the whole number could be seen. In Michigan, we have a separate VIN tag installed elsewhere (probably like most states) and the VIN number is a completely different number than the chassis serial number. To date, the only time the serial number was technically required was if the officer doing my inspection wanted to compare my Certificate of Origin to the serial number on the chassis. I offered. He didn't. Cutting back the tab is another option. I wouldn't offset the entire dash just for that.

Thanks Paul, that makes sense as well. I am pretty sure Oregon will issue a vin and tag (although not certain of that) and I too plan to make my dash removable without having to drill out rivets. I appreciate you taking a look.

[Namrups]

I am hoping to obtain feedback from other coupe builders on this one. While positioning the dash I noticed if I center it between the roll bars, the end cap mounting pad wants to cover up the last couple of digits on the serial number engraved in the cross bar. If I clamp it where the picture shows, my dash has no gap on the PS rollbar and about 5/8" on the DS. I am also slightly off center of the steering shaft. Is this just something we live with? I can force the centering of the dash but then the end caps get flexed pretty hard and aren't really "square" to the face of the dash. Thanks in advance.

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Mine was the same way. I just trimmed the dash to clear the serial number.

[PNWTim]

Thanks Scott, it's great to get confirmation.

[PNWTim]

I have been in a bit of holding pattern waiting for powder coating and other items. I did take care of a few things over the last week. I wanted to get rid of the engine pallet so it didn't take so much space in the shop. I bought some inexpensive, weight-rated casters and mounted them to the stand the engine came with. I didn't really want to mount the engine to my upright engine stand quite yet so I thought this was a good compromise:

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I also received a test shell seat from a great guy in Texas. These seats are used regularly in Singer Porsche builds. They have a separate head rest which I like. It's a pretty tight fit but if I have to cut off the harness tabs and move them I will. I am waiting on the mounts and sliders so I can do a real mock up but I am pretty pleased with how they fit so far.

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I also received my cruise control module from Dakota Digital today. It was backordered for almost two months after the release was announced, but Summit finally delivered it to me today. I now have all of my electronics and can move forward with planning and installation. Looking forward to moving the pile forward in this area.

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[JimStone]

Oh man, I forgot about the Dakota cruise control. I looked at that a few months ago then forgot.

I'll be interested in how you describe the install. I'm not sure I want to add more electronics. Seems I've got wires everywhere. But it would be nice to have

[PNWTim]

Today I did the final mockup of my dash layout. There are a few details I need to work out but this is more or less where everything will land. I have also started laying out the electronics modules but I only have a couple as I am going old school with ignition key and push button starter (no Digital Gaurd Dog, etc.) but I am going to have a module for the cruise control and the remote to actuate the door poppers along with a few relays and buss bars.

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[bishes]

I like where you put the four smaller gauges. I've been mocking up different options for my car and something similar has been at the top of my list.

[JimStone]

I like the gauge layout. Custom and cool looking.

What are you thinking of covering the dash with?

[PNWTim]

I am not quite sure yet other than it will be upholstered. I have been kicking around the idea of a full length brow that is a little more rounded and built up a bit which will require a professional's hand to finish. Not quite in my wheelhouse. I have been modeling my dash layout after a Series 1 XKE (very loosely). I have always liked that layout and I may go so far as to have a different material in the center. This is really the only area where I can apply a little creative license so I want to explore all my options.

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I am incorporating the same style of switches and will probably have a bit of a wiring nightmare ahead of me as I am going off the reservation and will have to figure out how to incorporate all the components. It's a lot easier when using LED lighting - the amperage requirements are quite a bit lower especially when incorporating relays. I really want to use the headlight paddle switch but it might be a bridge too far. For perspective, the Jag dash is 8" wider than the Coupe dash so there is a lot going on in a small space.

[Papa]

The gauge layout looks good, Tim. I'm hoping that by the time I get to that point on my build that FFR will have a carbon fiber dash available like the one in the CF 30th anniversary coupe they just debuted.

[burchfieldb]

Looking good! Don't sell yourself short on the creative license, lots of opportunities to make it your own.

[460.465USMC]

Today I did the final mockup of my dash layout. There are a few details I need to work out but this is more or less where everything will land. I have also started laying out the electronics modules but I only have a couple as I am going old school with ignition key and push button starter (no Digital Gaurd Dog, etc.) but I am going to have a module for the cruise control and the remote to actuate the door poppers along with a few relays and buss bars.

Sweet layout, Tim. You're making it your own. I like it.

P.S. Thanks for posting the cruise control update. Hadn't planned on it, but it's giving me something to think hard about. I use cruise all the time in my DDs, around town, etc. Not a cheap upgrade, but a very functional one for me.

[PNWTim]

Sweet layout, Tim. You're making it your own. I like it.

P.S. Thanks for posting the cruise control update. Hadn't planned on it, but it's giving me something to think hard about. I use cruise all the time in my DDs, around town, etc. Not a cheap upgrade, but a very functional one for me.

Thanks Chris. You are correct, it's not inexpensive but it's one of those things I would rather have it and not use it than the other way around. Like you, I use cruise all the time so there's no reason I can imagine I wouldn't use it in the Daytona.

Dakota stuff just tends to work and I am using their remote entry for my door poppers as well. Pretty easy to integrate.

[PNWTim]

In normal fashion, I have completed 10% of 90% of my tasks. I am really struggling with wanting to install panels but also not wanting them in my way. So I spent this afternoon applying Kill Mat and Noico (only because I have both and there truly is no difference). I lined all of the foot box panels and will apply 3/8" Thermozite over that as well as the carpet. I am going to use german square weave when the time comes. A requisite picture of my noise cancelling work:

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I also finished up my fuel line routing through the firewall. Stainless line is a bear to use and I don't think I would do it again. Given the short distance of the tunnel I would be much more inclined to do armored PTFE which is much, much easier to work with. Frankly you can run fuel line in this vehicle with very little exposure to random road debris so the need is somewhat mitigated from a safety standpoint.

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Diving into wiring full time over the next couple of weeks. Planning on stripping back most of the harness to diet unneeded items and install others that are. I don't really like plastic convolute so I'll probably be replacing a lot of it with expandable nylon on split loom depending on the situation.

[Lugnut Mark]

I really like your gauge layout .... can't wait till my kit arrives so I can copy your layout lol .... Thanks !

[PNWTim]

My wife and I spent a couple of weeks in Europe and had a great time. Visiting the picture below was a bucket list item for me. I lived in Germany for three years but never had an opportunity to really visit Bavaria so really special to finally make it there. Austria was as picturesque as we expected and all in all a fabulous destination. It was nice to get away and as always, good to be back:

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While I was out my brakes finally arrived. Over the last couple of days I installed both the front and rears. I opted for the Aerolite 6 kit from Gordon Levy for my build. I ran into the interference with the front caliper mounts that has been pretty well documented. I chose to modify both the caliper bracket and the spindle so I wasn't grinding too much from either. Used carbide burrs, a flat file and my sanding disc to shape the caliper bracket:

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Brakes installed and good to go:

Front left

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Left Rear

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I also took the time to fit, drill and prepare the battery mount tray. I used 1/4-20 inserts to mount. The tray is in the "soon to be powder coated" box. I am using the Odyssey ODS-AGM28L battery. I really wanted to use an Optima Yellow Top but it was simply too large for the space allowed.

217971217972

I have a few details to finish re: the brakes. I don't like the fact one of the Wilwood E-Brake cables is about 18" too long. My kit from F5 didn't come with the Wilwood E-Brake adapters or I would simply use one of the kit supplied cables that are the correct length. Just need to mull this over a bit and figure out what I want to do. I also realized I need to fabricate all four of the flex brake line junction mounts. I have some 1 1/4" aluminum 1/8" bar stock I think will work. I thought the kit came with brackets but if so I can't find them so fabrication it is.

And, of course, I need to bend, flare and mount my hard lines. I was waiting until I had my brakes in hand so I could truly see where the flex lines needed to go, etc. So time to bend, rebend, throw away, start over, bend, flare, crack the flare....looking forward to it.

[Papa]

My wife and I spent a couple of weeks in Europe and had a great time. Visiting the picture below was a bucket list item for me. I lived in Germany for three years but never had an opportunity to really visit Bavaria so really special to finally make it there. Austria was as picturesque as we expected and all in all a fabulous destination. It was nice to get away and as always, good to be back:

217964

I spent seven and a half years in Germany, six of that in Bavaria. I have many fond memories from my time there.

[460.465USMC]

Looks like an awesome trip, Tim! Happy you guys were able to enjoy it.

Regarding the brake junction mounts, I think I may have you covered. I'll make a note to check later on and give you a text. They're yours de gratis if you want them.

[PNWTim]

So, have been making good progress on my brake lines but have run into an odd situation. While trying to root around and find my inverted flare brackets I decided to make one. I wanted to have a template I could clamp up to ensure my hardline routing was terminating in the correct location, height, etc. In the process of doing this I started to realize my -3 an to inverted flare fittings were a hodgepodge. Now, these came out of Wilwood packaging with the flex lines, so I don't even know what to think. I was somewhat doubting what I was seeing but took the time today to determine what each of them actually is. A picture for reference:

218200

The two on the left are metric - 1.5 X 10 I believe. The second from the right is a 7/16 - 20 and the one on the far left is correct with a 3/8 - 24 inverted flare. I let Gordon Levy know the situation and ordered 3 replacements for the four oddballs but pretty weird.

[PNWTim]

Looks like an awesome trip, Tim! Happy you guys were able to enjoy it.

Regarding the brake junction mounts, I think I may have you covered. I'll make a note to check later on and give you a text. They're yours de gratis if you want them.

Very generous Chris, thank you. Let me know what you find out when you get a chance.

[flight_83]

Nice to see another Coupe being built in Oregon. Go Ducks ��

[PNWTim]

Well, I guess a little vacation accelerated my need for a lift. I originally built my shop with scissored trusses to have a 12' internal height. It took me about 10 years to pull the trigger but I finally did and have spent the last week or so picking it up (which was an adventure), unpacking, unloading, moving, and finally placing it upright tonight. Although my concrete floor was very well done I have a bit of unevenness to address. Neither post is plumb and one is about 1/2" lower than the other. So going to work out the shims, etc. to get it all squared and plumb and then off to the races. The angle of the photo makes them look worse than they are:

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[460.465USMC]

Oh, boy! You're going to love it. Congrats! I bought my four-post in 2016. I couldn't part with it, so moved it twice as we sold/bought houses.

[PNWTim]

Drilled my first anchor hole today, hit rebar 3 inches in and destroyed my bit. I have three new ones coming and hope to tame the beast tomorrow.

[Papa]

Drilled my first anchor hole today, hit rebar 3 inches in and destroyed my bit. I have three new ones coming and hope to tame the beast tomorrow.

Go to Home Depot and rent a rotary hammer drill. It will take you ten minutes to drill all your anchor holes. It'll also go right through rebar without any drama.

[PNWTim]

I actually have one, a pretty nice Milwaukee. And I was using a carbide four tooth Bosch rebar bit so not exactly sure what happened but I hit either rebar or a rock so hard it rounded over the carbide and smoked the bit. I ordered two standard bits and a special rebar bit from Bosch which will be here tomorrow. Fingers crossed.

[PNWTim]

I am back to work on the car after installing my lift. The brake lines were not something I was looking forward to as I seem to struggle a bit with the geometry and angle of the dangle. I have made patterns, used all kinds of measuring devices and many more feet of tubing than necessary, but I did get it finished. I hadn't used my flaring tool in a couple of years so I had to familiarize myself all over again.

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This is a really nice tool but if you're not careful, it will produce a flare that looks like this:

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You want them to look like this:

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Used the heavy Q rivets for the transition plates (big shout out to Chris) on both front and rear locations:

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I also opted to run my rear brake divider offset so I could run my rear feed line through the tunnel, next to the fuel line:

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A quick shot of the pedal box with routing of lines similar to others:

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Planning on installing the reservoirs and footboxes in the next couple of days.

[burchfieldb]

I feel your pain on this one. It took me a bit to get the brake lines done.

[460.465USMC]

The brake lines were not something I was looking forward to as I seem to struggle a bit with the geometry and angle of the dangle. I have made patterns, used all kinds of measuring devices and many more feet of tubing than necessary, but I did get it finished. I hadn't used my flaring tool in a couple of years so I had to familiarize myself all over again.

First of all, that's very funny. Second, boy, can I relate! My pea brain doesn't do well on bending the lines. In fact, I may have struggled even more the second time around. For me, it's probably one of the most challenging tasks of the entire build. Congrats on the SS lines. You'll be ready to fill and bleed soon. Looks fantastic!

[PNWTim]

Nothing too earthshaking but I have been making a little bit of progress. I permanently installed my fuel tank which allowed me to rivet in the drop trunk:

219990

I also riveted in the outside footbox panels on both sides:

219991219992

I also installed the fuse box and am in the process of unwrapping and rewrapping the main harness so I can steer some of it where it needs to go.

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I decided to go off the res a bit on my dash. I am epoxying a doubler on the backside to stiffen it up and make it a little easier to fill the unwanted holes provided by FF.

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I have also spent some time with wiring, which is probably where I am going next. I have a healthy dislike of plastic convolute so I am rewrapping most of the harnesses. I de-pinned the connectors for both the front and rear harnesses so I can run them through bulkhead pass throughs. I am replacing the convolute with a woven split wrap. I am also going to replace some of the connectors provided by Ron Francis with Deutsch connectors to reduce a little bulkiness. It's a lot of unnecessary work but something I enjoy doing.

[Blitzboy54]

The brake lines look really good.

I am always jealous of you lift guys. They are affordable enough to pull the trigger I just don't have the head space in the garage. Everything looks great, I may have to step up my game and build a coupe one of these days.

[PNWTim]

The brake lines look really good.

I am always jealous of you lift guys. They are affordable enough to pull the trigger I just don't have the head space in the garage. Everything looks great, I may have to step up my game and build a coupe one of these days.

I just installed it so still getting used to it, but so far so good. Thanks for the kind words.

A coupe would look good on you - I'm probably going to build a roadster next. Everybody needs a matching set.

[460.465USMC]

Panels look good, Tim. The white will be a nice under hood contrast.

I hear you on the thicker dash. I did that as well on my MK4, so will see if I follow suit on the Coupe when I get there.

Is that a dust collection system above? Niiiiiiiiiice!! Also, congrats on getting your lift in service. Doesn't take long to get spoiled and wonder how you survived without one. Keep up the good work.

[PNWTim]

Panels look good, Tim. The white will be a nice under hood contrast.

I hear you on the thicker dash. I did that as well on my MK4, so will see if I follow suit on the Coupe when I get there.

Is that a dust collection system above? Niiiiiiiiiice!! Also, congrats on getting your lift in service. Doesn't take long to get spoiled and wonder how you survived without one. Keep up the good work.

Thanks Chris. I am trying to capture a bit of the classic race car vibe. I am hoping the white isn't too difficult to keep clean.

That is part of my dust collection. When I build my shop I split it down the middle so each half is 25 X 36. One is for metal and one is for wood. Although I have been doing a lot of work on my car in the woodshop...

[burchfieldb]

Looking good Tim. I did the same with the wire loom on mine, the mesh split loom really cleans it up, and is a bit more flexible.

[Lugnut Mark]

The white looks crazy nice Tim … Amen to having a lift I’ll never go back to not having one …. When your 6’2” tall working on these cars that are to say the least on the low side is rough on this old guys back! 220080220081

[PNWTim]

I have been working on my dash for the last week or so and finally drilled some holes and did some layout. I am pretty happy with how it is turning out. I will be upholstering it so this is a very rough draft just to see if my layout works. I still have to drill the holes for the headlight switch (bezel shown top center) and the horn and signal switch. I need to temporarily mount the dash so I can determine these last two.

220127

I am still up in the air on the jockey box but I think I am going to do it. It will hold the registration, a pack of gum and maybe a pair of sunglasses...

[Namrups]

Just an FYI... I did not want a glove box but still wanted somewhere to keep stuff so I 3d printed inserts to fit into the door openings. Here is the link to my explaination in my thread. There are other suppliers that are offering metal inserts also. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?41418-The-race-is-on-Namrups-65-Daytona-Coupe-build&p=568220&viewfull=1#post568220

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215659&d=1751200699

Scott

Scott

[PNWTim]

Thanks Scott. I am definitely going to do the door cubbies whether I do a glove box or not. I am also considering reinforcing the dash in that area and adding an "Oh $h.." handle instead. Decisions, decisions. I have read your build thread many time and appreciate the weigh in.

[PNWTim]

Test fit the dash this morning to help me determine the signal and horn locations. I also hung my indicator strip below the switches and pretty happy with the layout.

220184
I still need to drill and mount the light switch, which is a bit of work. The original switch I am using requires standoffs to mount which adds a layer of complexity. I was not really aware of the screwball way Jaguar mounted this thing until I was pretty far down the road or I may of rethought the entire thing. These are the pieces of the light switch assembly:

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The switch body and ferrule actually mount independently of each other which is awesome (not). You can see the spring loaded retainer pin on the end of the shaft. In the photo below you can see the release hole the pin fits in to retain the handle:

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Normally, I would just cut the shaft on the switch to shorten it but I don't think I can replicate the retention method. I have considered tapping it for a set screw but not sure there is really enough meat to do this and it would require an extremely small hex or slotted screw. Something like a #4-40 might work but I think the handle is pot metal so probably iffy at best.

I also need to make a final decision on the glove box. After looking at the size of the box and balancing the work against the utility, I am really leaning towards bracing the dash and installing a grab handle. I would anticipate riveting a steel backer plate to the backside of aluminum. Bend a 90 degree ledge on the bottom edge of this plate ensuring it is level with the lower dash cross tube. I would run steel strap from the backer to the tube, probably 1" wide by an 1/8" thick and bolt or rivet it to the plate and the tube to give the handle a firm mount. Not sure on this though, more to come.