Jesse builds another Cobra #11,061 - First body work shots [Archive] - Page 2

Blitzboy54

01-25-2025, 07:32 AM

I see you installed the 'hoop' over the passenger side mount for the steering rack, as provided by FFR as a precaution for weld failure. I did, as well. I didn't like how the PS hard line sits just above it, worried that it may vibrate and wear against that hoop. As an extra precaution, I put a short length of split fuel injection hose on that hard line, secured with a couple of zip ties. Just a thought.
209513

That tube just passes air back and forth to the grease boots, however what you did is not a bad idea. There is some contact between the power steering hoses and it. The car will vibrate and I can't get a hose clamp in there. I may copy what you did.

Looks good Jesse. Looks like you are faring better than I. The pump I've got from Roush is from Turn One steering and they didn't give me an integrated reservoir. Not a fan of the remote cannister so may change the pump as it's not as simple as just adding an integrated reservoir. Glad you found the right driveshaft!

The FFR instructions still show a remote reservoir. I like the integrated arrangement better as well. There is only so much room to hang stuff. Should be plenty of pump options for an SBF. Good luck, looking forward to your next update.

Blitzboy54

01-26-2025, 06:13 PM

More Coyote Wiring

As mentioned in another update the alternator wire from the RF harness did not reach the alternator if routed below the engine mount as recommended by the build manual. After giving it some thought I decided the best way to make that run longer was to use a single stud bus bar attached to the frame with machine screws. I used a 3ft length of 8 awg wire and shortened the RF wire and soldered a lug on it. I then wrapped it all in a silicone cover.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209612&d=1737923292

While I was down there I made connections to the water temp and oil pressure senders as well as completing the run to the alternator.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209613&d=1737923292

I connected the oil temp sender on the opposite side of the oil pan. I routed it around the front of the pan under the longer screws and used nuts and washers to keep it tucked in there.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209611&d=1737923292

Expansion Tank

I purchased a Mishimoto expansion tank clone. It is the same dimensions and I added the correct cap for the application. I dug up a number of threads on this tank and found that height was the main issue. First off I needed to create a mount. I have these. I used them to create mounting points for the side exhaust on my last roadster.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209645&d=1737951278

I had to modify them slightly by trimming down the edges. I used M8 rivnuts on the frame to anchor them. I also used 12mm spacers to lower the tank. The nice thing about this arrangement is I can add more spacers if I need to to lower it further if need be. I think it will clear as is.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209615&d=1737923368

The other piece of good news is this is so stout I don't need to mount the bottom stud. It has plenty of clearance. I put the boot in place and there is more than enough room. I also temp mounted part of the hood hinge for clearance and reference. I may powder coat the brackets for the tank. We will see.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209616&d=1737923368

Lastly I pulled the cap inlet and installed a plug. I couldn't find one at the hardware store the right size so I used one that was a slightly different size and tapped the hole. Fits nice.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209619&d=1737923431

Blitzboy54

01-26-2025, 11:40 PM

Vacuum and Fuel

I found some cool orange Silicone tubing. I am using different colors within the engine. Vacuum will be orange. I have some 5/8 silicone tubing on order for the PCV.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209617&d=1737923431

I completed the fuel circuit as well

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209621&d=1737928127

I picked up an electric bypass valve from Restomod Air. Has a rheostat that I can operate from the cockpit. Comes with easy to follow instructions. I decided to color code the hoses. Red for supply and blue for return. No real reason other than I like the way it looks.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209646&d=1737951278

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209647&d=1737951278

I also picked up the flat bed toe hook. Looks pretty sharp and seems like it will do what it's designed to do. Hopefully I never need it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209648&d=1737951368

Blitzboy54

01-29-2025, 01:23 PM

I learned something about vacuum bleeders and brakes vs the clutch. I reported not liking the vacuum bleeder on the brakes because it pulls air in past the fitting. You can't tell when the air is all gone. So I had another person help me do it the old fashioned way. On the clutch however I was never able to fully get the air out of the slave cylinder. I tried a number of tricks and I just couldn't get it. I would imagine a pressure bleeder would work for both but just for the sake of informing folks I found the vacuum bleeder worked great for this application. I was unable to remove the "rebound" because of the air behind the cylinder. The vacuum bleeder pulled it right out. The piston rebound was immediately tight while the vacuum bleeder was operating. The clutch now moves mm to mm with the pedal.

I did have to put a spacer behind the pin that engages the clutch as it was not long enough. Based on this experience and having to modify the bracket you may want to go a different route if installing an external slave. MDL is just ok.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209342&d=1737237185

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209341&d=1737237185

I also filled the TKX with sycromesh. The instructions call for 2.75 quarts. I removed the mid shift plate. I put 2.75 in and if you use a flashlight you can see the level from up there. It was right at the upper plug. So it was nice not to have to remove the side plug.

Blitzboy54

01-30-2025, 11:47 AM

Radiator Installation

I am in the extreme minority of builders (at least that post here) in that I really like the radiator fan as is. I get why folks put the shroud in but for me there is something about the look of it out and exposed that I dig. I broke out the hardware that come with the fan and went to work. Also it leaves a little more room in that area and I dig that as well. I installed a 1/4 NPT to 3/8 barb elbow for the expansion tank on the left side.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209819&d=1738251301

I propped it up with a floor jack to center and marked it. I had to trim the frame a little on my last build to clear one of the radiator welds. This was not the case this time.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209820&d=1738251301

I did use the breeze lower mount again though. I have absolutely no interest in riveting my radiator to the body. This was always just a weird solution IMO. I think FFR agrees because it went away on the MK5

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209821&d=1738251330

I tightened everything down and pinned the radiator to the lower mount per the instructions.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209822&d=1738251371

Last thing is I hooked a power supply up to the fan to test it. Works like it should and sounds like a fan boat. lol

I joke but this doesn't bother me either. The car is so loud I honestly never really noticed when I was driving.

https://youtu.be/R1G3vwm_zkc?si=aimGQUscH2tlBraB

Mike.Bray

01-30-2025, 02:18 PM

The Factory Five supplied fan is definitely loud. I tested it on the bench in my garage and my neighbor came over asking if I was putting a jet engine in my car. Sad thing is it doesn't pull very much air for all that noise.

Blitzboy54

02-01-2025, 05:55 PM

Cooling system

I continued to to integrate the cooling system. First I wanted to connect the radiator fan but first needed to finish routing the wiring harness. Also if I am going to complete the harness I mind as well install and test the horn.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209921&d=1738449065

I then fixed the connector to the fan. The male and female ends of the connector that come with the kit are not compatible. You can mash it together with channel locks or shave the female side. I opted to use a weather pack connector.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209918&d=1738449010

I ran the blue wire around the passenger side of the 4" frame tube and connected it to the orange Coyote fan trigger wire.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209919&d=1738449010

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209920&d=1738449065

Blitzboy54

02-01-2025, 06:12 PM

Cooling system cont

Next was time to get to work on the actual cooling lines. The lower was easy enough. I used the lower hose (came with the control pack) and married that to the corrugated steel line. I again may be in the minority but I like the steel lines that come with the kit. The Ford lower hose comes with the needed bend and the rest went together without issue.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209922&d=1738449065

I put my battery in as it will be covered up by the cooling system. I wonder if I will be able to change it without draining the radiator? Will find out if 5 years I guess.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209917&d=1738449010

I found my upper radiator hose when put in the spot it is keyed to go into contacts the power steering pump belt. So I cut off the clamp and removed the fitting. Using 2 pieces of existing radiator line and a small piece of steel I managed to manufacture myself and upper hose that does not contact the power steering pump belt but it doesn't clear it by much.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209923&d=1738449119

Lastly I put in the Mishimoto hose kit for the expansion tank and installed the intake. For the sake of disclosure this is not the intake I plan to use in the final build but the one I am using for now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209924&d=1738449119

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209925&d=1738449119

Blitzboy54

02-02-2025, 04:40 PM

I made a few adjustments. First was the upper cooling hose. The way it's keyed it points down about 35 degrees. This creates interference or near or near interference with the power steering drive belt. I dug up a thread from 2021 and found several solutions to this. The one I liked the best is to create another key groove. So that's what I did.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209966&d=1738530649

This makes the fitting level. I like this fit better.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209967&d=1738530649

Next was I didn't like the way the upper return line was routed. I now have it above the intake elbow. It's a pre molded piece that isn't a perfect fit. I will run with it for now but could replace it with a generic hose later depending. I put in a catch can off the PCV. I have hoses for that system plumbed. This is just for first start and possibly dyno tune. I have some custom hoses coming.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209974&d=1738530920

Blitzboy54

02-02-2025, 04:55 PM

Headers

When I purchased a Ford remanufactured engine it cam with OEM header studs and nuts. One of the things I struggled a little with my last build was the header bolts coming lose after several heat cycles. I decided that the OEM studs would be best. This turned out to be true for the passenger side. The engine also comes with OEM header gaskets.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209969&d=1738530792

I purchased a set of O2 sensor extension cables. This is a necessity for the passenger side. But only the passenger side. So if anyone needs a Gen 2 O2 sensor cable extension let me know. I have a spare.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209971&d=1738530835

The passenger header slid right into place and was relatively easy to tighten down. So far so good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209970&d=1738530792

The drivers side was an entirely different kettle of fish. First, the studs have to come out. There isn't enough room to clear them and the footbox. Two of the eight you can't get the stud back in. I had to use regular bolts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209973&d=1738530887

Almost all of them on the driver side was a genuine struggle to tighten down. The passenger side took 30 minutes to install, the driver was an hour and a half. But they are both in, so all's well that ends well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209972&d=1738530835

Blitzboy54

02-11-2025, 12:49 PM

Prep for engine start

This all went pretty smoothly. First I used my 12v power supply to test my fuel system and set the regulator. I recommend doing this if you have a fuel injected system as not to overload the injectors. I backed the regulator all the way out. Then un plugged the fuel pump and put the power supply on the positive and negative leads easy peasy.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210376&d=1739295018

I then set the regulator to the required 55 psi. I did not have any leaks so yay! I let it run for 20 minutes. No issues

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210379&d=1739295120

I hung the side pipes. I was planning on doing turnbuckle supports for the corners but I don't have a ball joint at the collector because of the cats so maybe no need? My Jpipes drooped on the last one. I think that might be a solution looking for a problem. I can tell you this though. There will definitely be some wedges in my future. The good news is both pipes are parallel to the frame so only the tips will need to move in.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210377&d=1739295054

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210378&d=1739295054

I welded in mufflers from Chambord Exhaust. I will re attach the tips after the body on and set. I want them to point down a bit to reduce the road noise.

End of the good news for now

I moved on to first start but that was a bust. I am having problems with the control pack that I wont get into here but if your interested I have a thread here.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?50740-My-coyote-won-t-start-and-I-need-some-help-I-think-I-found-it-But

At the end of the day I am sure it will be resolved but it could be a few weeks until we get there. In the mean time now that I know the fuel system is good I am going to start working on the back aluminum. I planned for a cubby and other things so I can stay busy with that.

Blitzboy54

02-23-2025, 08:01 PM

Limping Along

As I continue to work through my first start woes I have decided dust myself off and finally get back to it. I purchased a drop trunk from our friend Frank and put the rest of the back aluminum in. This is significantly bigger than the Breeze option. I fully tested my fuel system for leaks so I feel comfortable putting aluminum in.

I rough cut the opening with a jigsaw and metal blade.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210755&d=1740357749

I like to seal up the edges with aluminum tape. Since the design of this trunk goes all the way to the back wall it ends up with one piece lapped over the other. In order to make it even when I get the carpet in i put some heat mat in.

All in all a pretty big space

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210753&d=1740357679

Also got a little present from the Fedex man! New skins are here so I can get my wheels mounted. I think I will leave Scott's temp wheels on the car until I get it to the dyno (trying to stay positive). They sit pretty high and it will be easier to get it on and off a trailer like this.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210754&d=1740357679

gbranham

02-23-2025, 10:27 PM

Looks familiar!

210784

Blitzboy54

03-02-2025, 01:34 PM

I continue to work on the back end of the car. I got the rest of the trunk aluminum in. I also drilled and set my cockpit wall. I keep forgetting how much I don't enjoy drilling and riveting. I broke my last 1/8 drill bit but it was as I finished my last hole so that was kind of a win.

I started some preliminary wiring. I put an LED light strip under the trunk rail and mounted a toggle switch on the right side. I have a 12v line running that and the USB port that will be in the cubby. I am running a hot at all times because I want to be able to charge my phone at say a car show without turning the accessories on. On a side note one challenge was a finding a USB port that didn't have an LED backlight. I found it, was just harder than I thought it would be.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211034&d=1740936628

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211035&d=1740936628

I made the pass through hole much smaller on this one. The breeze cubby is great but I found having it go all the way behind the harness mounts is

1. Things roll around back there and are hard to retrieve
2. Makes changing out the harness really difficult if you choose too. You have to reach back through the hole.

This could all probably be settled by cutting the hole the recommended size in the instructions but I just didn't like it that big. This is all to say I want to make a smaller box that just holds a few things.

I mocked up the box I am going to make.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211036&d=1740936692

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211037&d=1740936692

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211039&d=1740936741

After I get everything fabbed up I can break it all down, clean up and rivet everything in.

Blitzboy54

03-08-2025, 11:04 PM

Back on track

It's pretty well documented at this point that I haven't been able to start my engine. The first problem was a have a defective wiring harness from Ford Performance. It has been a brutally slow process but I got an email on Friday that stated that engineering believes that I "most likely" have a defective part and it will "most likely" be replaced. In the mean time I Frankensteined it and I now have power. The engine turns over but won't start. This is was my next problem. I figured out that I did not install a pulse ring between my fly wheel and my crank. Oops

Well taking the engine back out isn't my first choice so I removed the transmission, clutch, flywheel and fix it that way. It was a lot of work but ultimately successful. I found an older thread from BEAR-AVHistory where he did something similar with car. He has a coyote as well so it gave me a template. I called Kevin and he shared his experience with me. This was very helpful.

One thing he mentioned was supporting the engine so it didn't droop. This was a good call. I used a bottle jack and counter sunk it in to a piece of 2x8

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211287&d=1741491647

This also gave me the ability to fine tune the angle when putting the transmission back in.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211288&d=1741491647

Ultimately we dug down to pay dirt and put the ring in.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211289&d=1741491647

Spent the rest of the day putting everything back together. The transmission fought me quite a bit. Eventually had to pull the last 1/2 in with the bolts. It was a long day but the results speak for themselves.

https://youtu.be/PO2E1Nu-9Kw?si=hzrP6XHY6tZ1GLTK

I filled the coolant and ran a couple of heat cycles. I still have a check engine light but no code. I strongly suspect this is due to the harness. When (if?) Ford sends the new one I will lay it over the top, fire up the engine and see if the MIL goes away. If it does I will swap out, if not I might keep it as a spare. We will see

It feels good to now be able to get back to fabricating. Tip of the cap to the board for all the support.

Blitzboy54

03-09-2025, 05:10 PM

Quick update, on the MIL or check engine light. The control pack comes with a Malfunction Indicator Light that is bracketed to the OBD port. I wanted a proper check engine light in my dash that matched the rest of my indicators. Now that my engine is running my check engine light never shuts off. I also don't have any error codes. Well I of course put an LED in my dash. What is happening is the LED uses so much less voltage that it's always lit.

I put an incandescent light in it's place and sure enough it goes out. I thought about playing around with resisters but ultimately I think I will just use a relay. Should work easy peasy.

Nigel Allen

03-09-2025, 07:23 PM

You could put a dummy load resistor (equivalent resistance and power to the incandescent lamp) across the LED. If you use a relay, make sure it is back EMF protected with a diode, or high back EMF could damage the ECM.

Cheers,

Nige

TTimmy

03-09-2025, 10:25 PM

Congrats on the start man - long time coming and well deserved!

Blitzboy54

03-10-2025, 10:19 PM

Update on the MIL.

I ordered a basic relay. the trigger side is connected to the MIL which is always hot and uses a ground switch to operate. On the feed side I installed the red wire of LED indicator in the dash. On the other side of the relay I ran 12v using the HAAT B pigtail from the 16 pin connector. I ran the black wire to ground. I tested the relay with a power supply and it lit up as expected.

I tucked the whole thing above the RF fuse box.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211352&d=1741661752

I wasn't sure how I would test it in the system as I would need to create an error. Luckily when you turn the key to run the MIL flashes. The light on the dash blips accordingly so I know it works. I now have a fully functional control pack.

https://youtu.be/WMluV_kdE4s?si=p5pEF8FxftOlW8oS

Blitzboy54

03-11-2025, 11:06 AM

I basically lost a month with the engine troubles. I realize I could continue to work but not knowing what was wrong I was hesitant to keep building around it. Now that I am back on track I am fighting the urge to "make up for lost time". Having said that it's good to be back in the saddle.

I want to complete the back end wiring so I finish the aluminum. Now that I am done (hopefully) messing around with the transmission I wanted to wire up the reverse light circuit. New York requires backup lights. I did little minimalist lights on my last car so I could just meet the requirement. This time I have a backup camera so I plan to do something a little more robust. I had the raw wires ready to go. I have 12v going to the switch that is always hot. I want the reverse lights, trunk lights and phone charger to always have power. The TKX comes with 2 threaded pigtails for reverse power. You could secure wires with eyelets and leave them open but water or mud would short it out. I like it to be clean and water proof so I purchased one of these from Modern Driveline. Nice little unit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211363&d=1741705233

Snaps right in there. Probably waterproof

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211364&d=1741705233

I ran wires back to my switch and then back into the side of the trunk area. This sends power to my lights and I have a loomed pigtail that I still need to route to the charger once the box is built. I originally ran the return line directly across forgetting about the elephant ear rear tire panel. dropped it underneath and back around.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211366&d=1741705269

This will serve as my trunk light off the switch.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211365&d=1741705233

Since I had to dig around quite a bit behind my dash I am re testing all my lights and signals.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211368&d=1741705269

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211367&d=1741705269

Blitzboy54

03-12-2025, 06:13 PM

Clutch Cover, Cockpit and a little Engine bling

The TCM1899 bellhousing comes with a clutch fork cover. It's designed to cover the hole the fork protrudes from and covers the cable. It's not nessesary and if you use and external slave cylinder it doesn't fit. I like the idea of a dust cover. It keeps water and debris out. Even though there is little to no chance of it being a problem open I like the clean look of the cover. It also gives a tiny bit of protection from light impact from flying debris or a speed bump as the fork sticks out a bit.

So to that end I made a cut out of the back end. To secure it I drilled a 1/8 hole on either side and used some of the self tapping screws that come with the kit. I like how it turned out

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211412&d=1741818959

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211413&d=1741819027

With the back end wiring done it was time to permanently mount the cockpit back wall.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211410&d=1741818959

I also re tested my head unit electrically. This also gave me a chance to see if this is where I want my shifter to be. I think despite assuming i wanted it mid shift this size and angled shifter from FFR in a coyote setup is just about perfect. I will leave it here.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211411&d=1741818959

Last but not least, I have started dressing up the engine a bit. I ordered some 5/8 Silicon hoses in orange for the PCV circuit and a matching silicon elbow. I purchased a standard PCV fitting from Ford and modified it slightly. If you remove the oring it clips in the hole I drilled nicely but I sealed it up with some epoxy. I found some black worm clamps that I quite like. I will switch over the the clamp on the heater to the black at some point as well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211415&d=1741819027

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211414&d=1741819027

dbo_texas

03-12-2025, 08:44 PM

I like the colored hoses in the engine bay. Sets it apart for sure. Nicely done.

jengum

03-12-2025, 09:11 PM

How are you placing bends in the sheet metal for the cubby box and clutch fork cover? A HF brake or something else?

Blitzboy54

03-13-2025, 05:57 AM

How are you placing bends in the sheet metal for the cubby box and clutch fork cover? A HF brake or something else?

Yep, I use metal jigsaw blade and a HF break. Nothing fancy.

Blitzboy54

03-17-2025, 04:34 PM

Bullet Bit

Well, I sucked it up and changed out my control pack harness. It was both not nearly as bad and worse than I thought. Easier to actually do but no real way to make behind my dash look as clean as it once was. The only thing here that really matters is it's done :) I didn't document it because I mean....

So after getting everything back together and re testing, I wanted to do something fun. So I did a rough mock up of my seats with the Sparco seat sliders I purchased. Quick note, I will NEVER need to move my seat forward and anyone else (short or tall) will never drive my car so why the sliders. First they put these seats at the right height and second I want to move them forward to clean behind them.

All in all they fit nice. I mocked up a fake windshield thanks to Jeff giving me a measurement to work off of. You can't see it in the pic but I made a cardboard window frame.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211575&d=1742245049

I sat in the seat and I end up a little lower than my other setup but a touch closer. I have been back and forth on the steering wheel and after sitting in it I wanted something different. A little smaller and a flat bottom. I am too close to the column to put in a quick release. I never really needed the wheel out of the way getting in and out of a roadster. You sort of stand and slide down both in and out.

Anyway I decided to modify my steering hub to drill and tap a new bolt pattern

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211576&d=1742245049

This was going great until this happened.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211577&d=1742245049

This was soooooo upsetting. It's aluminum and I was really going slow. Couldn't believe it broke. So after contemplating all my options I opted to revers the process.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211578&d=1742245113

This worked out well enough and I can still use the FFR wheel hub.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211579&d=1742245113

Lastly in addition to changing over to the thicker tunnel cover I got it drilled and marked. You can see what I plan to do for cup holders and the black rectangle on the upper left is I purchased a vintage ashtray that I will slightly modify and powdercoat. It has a flip up top so I can put things like chap stick and earplugs somewhere accessible. All in all I am very happy with the cockpit

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211580&d=1742245113

danmas

03-17-2025, 11:48 PM

That looks fabulous! Well done sir. Well done indeed!

cv2065

03-18-2025, 12:00 AM

Looks awesome!! Really clean and love the orange. Watching how you go about installing the Intratrim seats. I have the Breeze mounting plates as I like their incline but haven’t really got into the seating yet. Maybe an L bracket of some kind. The body will go on this week so I can measure for my dash screws. I’ll mount the seats then as well.

Mike.Bray

03-18-2025, 11:12 AM

This was going great until this happened.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211577&d=1742245049

This was soooooo upsetting. It's aluminum and I was really going slow. Couldn't believe it broke. So after contemplating all my options I opted to revers the process.

That's exactly why I only use good quality gun taps. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/taps/taps-4~/chip-clearing-taps~~/taps-4~flute-type~spiral-point/

Blitzboy54

03-21-2025, 07:48 PM

Base Engine Tune

Been back and forth on what to do about tuning the engine. The control pack base tune is adequate for the build but at some point it has to be addressed. The gold standard around here is Lund. Everyone says they are great. They ought to be they charge $1200. It's a little crazy. I looked at a local chassis dyno and they want $850. This was my preference but they want me to drop it off and might take them a 2-3 weeks to tune it.

I found a company (really a network of tuners) called Juggernaut Performance Tuning. They charge for a Coyote w/an upgraded intake manifold $299. I need my own device. I chose the STC X4 I got for a little over $300. I filled out a ticket and told them what I had. They reached out and asked about my transmission and few other details then sent me a base tune and instructions on data logging. They asked me to upload the tune and run it to full engine temp then send them the data. This is what I did

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211718&d=1742601515

I then setup the data log per the instructions

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211719&d=1742601515

The engine ran very smooth. They fixed the fan which was kind of awesome. Goes on at 195 and off at 180 now like normal. Still idles a bit high at cold start but very improved. Next is for me to drive it around the block. We will do this back and forth over the next couple of months. I have 6 months to complete the "program". They use a ticket system so I just upload my data when I have it and in a day or two I get a new tune with next steps. So far so good

https://youtu.be/vtOzGjjX4mw?si=gVpCR7UJbwSPc73m

Lastly I got new shoes!! My youngest daughter held the brake so I could torque the lugs. I'm proud to say she enlisted in the Air Force and is shipping out this summer. Very exciting stuff

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211720&d=1742601515

Blitzboy54

03-21-2025, 09:58 PM

Seat Slider Mounts

I have spent months thinking about how I wanted to mount my seats. One of the genius aspects of the Breeze mounts is how they are assembled. Rivnuts on the mounting plate that allows you to remove the seat without having to do anything crazy. With this in mind I applied the same idea to the sliders. Once I mocked everything up and decided how much tilt I wanted I marked everything up and started drilling.

I drilled holes in the upper slider big enough to mount 8mm rivnuts

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211721&d=1742601702

In my mind the best way to do this is to mount them to the seat first. I used button head 8mm bolts and a series of washers to create a little front lift

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211722&d=1742601702

This worked really well. I do need to get longer bolts for final assembly. I would like them to go the length of the rivnut.

I modified the pull handle with a tube bender to narrow it and cut the ends to shorten it. I wanted a double locker in case of a track day.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211723&d=1742601702

This will make removing the seats pretty easy going forward

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211724&d=1742601746

Next is mounting to the seat pan but this is how it sits and it makes for a very comfortable seating position

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211725&d=1742601746

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211727&d=1742601793

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211726&d=1742601793

Blitzboy54

03-23-2025, 08:06 PM

Well, I've got an engine tune, seats and wheels we all know what comes next.

I got her on the ground and and out in the sun.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211797&d=1742777363

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211798&d=1742777388

Now as it turns out it was probably a little early to go cart. There are a lot of small stones and debris on the road. You can hear it tinkling around while driving. Also I chuckled on the first turn. I used the turn signal then realized that that was kind of dumb seeing as there are no lights or even a body attached to it. :)

It sounds great and gets real throaty when decelerating. I'm real happy with it so far

https://youtu.be/M3MRfoVkVT4?si=GvjXjVD3ZIjwoBnr

gbranham

03-23-2025, 08:22 PM

Congrats, Jesse! I also used my turn signals instinctively, then realized none of my lights are hooked up. And after 5 miles, my interior is full of sand and pebbles. Lol.

Greg

Blitzboy54

03-23-2025, 08:32 PM

A lot of folks have used the Digital Guard Dog RFID push button start system. They have a whole suite of options. The most common I've see for our builds is their PBS-I and PBS-II. These give you the push button start plus some options for door locks or poppers. They retail for between $580-$660 plus tax. After reading the installation and operating instructions one of the features of the unit is it has 2 accessory output signals (not a fan of that feature as it makes selecting ACC mode a touch more complicated at least from what I have read from others) and it requires you to operate the brake to both start and shut down. I realize this is the case for any modern car (for start anyway) but I have a manual transmission with a neutral safety switch so I feel like that is sufficient protection from accidental start (it's jumpered out during this phase of the build but will be active down the line). I feel like for a custom car this is enough.

I ended up going with the PBS-M (Marine) version. This operates exactly the same way but only has a single accessory output and doesn't require a brake signal. It's also a huge bonus that it was $340 delivered after tax. It's listed at $349 on the website but I called to order and the lady on the phone just kept taking money off so no matter what unit you use you should call directly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211799&d=1742777414

I did a test run using the switch as a connector for wiring. It only needs the 4 wires from the switch (12v bat, acc, run and starter) and a ground. You can set it in manual (push the button on the fob to disarm) or automatic (uses proximity). According to several folks on this forum you should not use proximity as it kills the battery pretty quick in the FOB.

Anyhow here is my test run. It went well.

https://youtu.be/32AWELdsuns?si=Gz2Fs3Cfhh9LOdnv

jengum

03-23-2025, 09:35 PM

That is slick!

PNWTim

03-23-2025, 10:09 PM

Pretty nice milestone considering the PDB debacle. Glad to see the marine version is going to work. I'm leaning that way myself except I am planning on door poppers so I will need to weigh the pros and cons.

Sarcasticshrub

03-23-2025, 10:46 PM

I'm proud to say she enlisted in the Air Force and is shipping out this summer.

Congrats! I have one in the Air Force and another in the Army (after being a Marine for 4 years). Couldn't be more proud of kiddos that go this route.

Oh, and the car build is looking sharp too :D

Blitzboy54

03-24-2025, 05:37 AM

Congrats! I have one in the Air Force and another in the Army (after being a Marine for 4 years). Couldn't be more proud of kiddos that go this route.

Oh, and the car build is looking sharp too :D

Thank you, I appreciate that. I was a Marine as well. There are a bunch of us in the forum. Ooh Rah

Yeah I’m pretty excited for her. She knew she wasn’t ready for college yet but also knew she wanted an adventure in the meantime. She’s been talking about joining up since she was 12.

jengum

03-24-2025, 07:34 PM

Re...the Digital Dawg. Is it correct that this replaces the FFR supplied ignition switch completely?

Blitzboy54

03-24-2025, 09:01 PM

Re...the Digital Dawg. Is it correct that this replaces the FFR supplied ignition switch completely?

Yes, I just used the connections on the back of the switch to do a wire to wire test. I have completely removed the switch and used a weather pack to connect the ignition wires in the RF harness to the Guard dog. The key switch is gone

Blitzboy54

03-29-2025, 03:53 PM

Drivers seat mount

It turns out mounting seat sliders is more difficult than I would have assumed. Just a lot to line up without ever really being able to see what your doing. I used rivnuts for both the seat mount to the rails and the rail mount to the frame. I measured and marked everything the way I wanted it. I then put a piece of gorilla tape on all 4 corners. Set the seat and then put the tape down to hold it in place while I gently removed the seat.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211941&d=1743280475

The 4 inch tube is an easy reference point and goes the length of the cockpit so pretty easy to mark and drill.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211940&d=1743280368

I used a Sparco slider because I wanted a double locker in case I every did a track day and they were checking. These are a little longer than the FFR offering. The back rail where I chose to mount it goes over the seat pan so to accommodate this I built a bracket. A simple 90 with a hole in one side and a rivenut in the other.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211930&d=1743279225

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211931&d=1743279225

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211939&d=1743280368

Once mounted I put the pull handle in. This also needed more modification than I first thought. It is designed to tilt up. The issue is you could not fully engage it as it would hit the bottom of the seat. I used a tube bender and played around with it until I got it just right.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211932&d=1743279354

It does slide forward a few inches. Again this was only for me to be able to clean and the way the seat is shaped I could potentially put some items back there (coat, blankets, etc) then tuck the seat back for trips or whatever. The seat comes back out by removing the 8mm bolts in the base. The rails will stay until carpet goes in.

Lastly now that the seat is in I set the passenger seat (will go in next) to see how they look together.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211934&d=1743279420

Blitzboy54

03-29-2025, 04:05 PM

A few cockpit items

I insulated the back of the trans tunnel and the cup holders. I found these already colored black which is nice because it's difficult to powder coat the inside of a cup and get consistent coverage. I colored the vintage ashtray I found and mounted that as well. I removed the cigarette parts of it and it's now just a little storage box.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211929&d=1743279225

My return radiator hose needed to be secured. The rubber portion of hose is really close to the alternator pully and I want to remove any movement. I know breeze makes a nice bracket but I found this universal setup and I like the look.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211935&d=1743279420

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211936&d=1743279420

Last but not least I was able to start putting the box together that I mocked up. This will serve as my storage cubby.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211938&d=1743279476

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211937&d=1743279476

Nigel Allen

03-29-2025, 07:02 PM

Nice work all round.

Cheers,

Nige

cv2065

03-29-2025, 07:18 PM

Looking good Jessie! Those seats are nice! Any foreseeable issues by mounting the seats without the body on?

gbranham

03-29-2025, 09:16 PM

Looking good, Jesse! I'm wondering how hot that shifter knob is going to get when sitting in the sun. I like that gutted ashtray. Wonder if a phone would fit in it. I've been pondering a similar cubby for my phone.

Blitzboy54

03-30-2025, 07:08 AM

Looking good Jessie! Those seats are nice! Any foreseeable issues by mounting the seats without the body on?

I don't think so. They come in and out pretty easy with the 4 bolts in the seat base. In terms of clearing the body I did some measuring using the roll bar posts as a reference point and they are not that close. Even if it was marginal I left myself some wiggle room.

Looking good, Jesse! I'm wondering how hot that shifter knob is going to get when sitting in the sun. I like that gutted ashtray. Wonder if a phone would fit in it. I've been pondering a similar cubby for my phone.

My last shifter was black although the handle was polymer vs metal. Heat in the cockpit is a thing almost no matter what. I got in the habit of keeping a small fleece blanket that I threw over the dash in the rare times it was out in the sun unattended. This keeps the gauges from getting weather beat and the seat belts and shifter from getting too hot. For the most part it wasn't an issue. I think it being black better fits my theme.

Fman

03-30-2025, 10:55 AM

Jesse, just catching up on your build! Nice work all the way around... coming together perfectly. I really like those seats, tempting to order for my ride. Definitely will be going to a high back seat eventually.

Keep up the good work! :cool:

Blitzboy54

04-02-2025, 08:14 PM

Fan Speed Controller

One of the things I learned about right at first start was the control pack on a Gen 2 Coyote turns the fan on at like 178 and basically never turns it off again. It kind of annoying. My first pass at an engine tune fixed this issue in that the fan turns on at 192 until it cools back down to below 180. While researching this I read all the various solutions folks around here have used. Now I that I had learned about PWM fan controllers I had to have one. I ended up connecting with a fellow builder in Oregon (PNWTim) who turned me on to this unit from DC Controls

http://www.dccontrol.com/constant_temperature_controllers.htm

I made the purchase. The fella that makes these is a one man show and they are made to order. It took 2 weeks to get it and it is both really well made and simple in design. If you don't have air conditioning it's 4 connections. Fan +/- and a run to the battery +/-. It comes with everything you need to install it including battery connections and a fuseable link. It uses a real simple temperature probe that goes in the radiator fins and doesn't require any hardware to secure it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212087&d=1743640914

I figured I would run the same weather pack connection for the fan wires. This way if it ever failed I can simply plug the fan back into the RF harness and the control pack will run it. Even if out in the middle of nowhere the switch could be made in minutes. I tucked that connector out of the way with it capped.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212086&d=1743640710

Mounted to the F panel. There is a small pot at the top. For every full CW turn it increases the temp 3.5 degrees. The same is true in the opposite direction. It has an adjustable range of +/- 35 degrees. It comes default at 180. I rotated one in a half to run at a constant 185. It osculates the fan speed to keep the engine at a constant temperature. Once wired up its just a simple matter of putting the temp probe near the return per the instructions.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212088&d=1743640914

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212089&d=1743640914

I fired up the engine and let it get to temp. I wasn't sure how accurate it was going to be. It was pretty much 185 dead on. The fan runs slowly in the background at whatever speed it needs to keep the temp. It basically takes the FFR stock fan and makes it virtually silent. Its kind of crazy. Best part is when you shut the engine down the fan continues to run for 2 minutes. I am really impressed

https://youtu.be/e5Tq13WKMs0?si=TdWWaJzKg56w9lty

TTimmy

04-02-2025, 09:13 PM

Just got caught up on your build - Everything is looking good. Good call on the Marine Guard Dog and fan controller - I was not aware of either of those solutions. Keep up the good work!

Tim

Nigel Allen

04-02-2025, 11:14 PM

I am stoked about the solution for the fan speed controller. I am concerned about moisture affecting the potentiometer. Probably worth making a little cover to prevent ingress, which is going to be tricky without impinging on the heat-sink air flow. Otherwise, maybe a little blob of silicon over the adjuster screw once set.

Cheers,

Nige

PNWTim

04-03-2025, 08:43 AM

Jesse - I'm glad to hear it worked as well as hoped.

Blitzboy54

04-03-2025, 08:28 PM

Gen 1 cover on a Gen 3 intake... with a twist

It's widely known that for as much as the Coyote performs it's hard to make pretty. There are a number of threads on different ways to dress up the engine. Some are better than others. I have a Gen 2 Coyote but a Gen 3 intake manifold so if I want something that is made to fit I would have to go with the Gen 3 cover. There is a guy that makes adapters fit a Gen 4 cover. After looking through all the threads I could find and looking at a number of other custom options I decided I really like the look of the Gen 1 best. I saw some others that went this route with a cover that Mike Forte adapts. Looking at what he did I decided to use that as a template

I purchased a used Gen 1 cover and removed all the chrome bits

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212129&d=1743726542

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212130&d=1743726542

I pressure washed cover then made a cutout for my heater hoses on the side. I used a stone to polish up the cut. I made it pretty smooth. I also drilled new mounting holes on the tabs that line up with the Gen 3 rubber grommets.

In order to attach it I found that the 5/16 ball studs that are used for the hood and trunk fit nicely in the grommets. I added a washer and coupler to get it at the right height for my setup

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212132&d=1743726593

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212131&d=1743726593

I painted the accent bits. I epoxied them back in and set it on the engine using black button head bolts that blend in nicely. I was thinking about painting the black part of the cover but it matches the black valve covers I found ($50 at Ford Performance). I think it ties the look of the engine together. For having no painting skills of any kind I'm really pleased with how it turned out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212133&d=1743726664

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212134&d=1743726664

PNWTim

04-03-2025, 10:27 PM

I'm pretty impressed with your ingenuity. It looks very nice and most importantly, like it's supposed to be there.

TXeverydayDad

04-03-2025, 10:56 PM

That looks really good! I think you’ve found a perfect balance of just enough bling!

Justin

04-04-2025, 12:53 AM

Accent colors look great when done in moderation. WELL DONE!

Jeff Kleiner

04-04-2025, 07:35 AM

Nicely done Jesse! I did the beautification on one one a few years ago and the owner provided laser cut aluminum "32V TiVCT" bits and the surrounds for that and the 5.0. Obviously these are polished but you could go orange with 'em. Not sure where he got them but if they're something you'd like to add I bet they'd show up with a little googling.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212150&d=1551914775

Jeff

Blitzboy54

04-04-2025, 11:52 AM

Nicely done Jesse! I did the beautification on one one a few years ago and the owner provided laser cut aluminum "32V TiVCT" bits and the surrounds for that and the 5.0. Obviously these are polished but you could go orange with 'em. Not sure where he got them but if they're something you'd like to add I bet they'd show up with a little googling.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff,

I looked before I started all this and could only find them as vinyl decals. I'll keep looking, certainly worth considering.

Also thank you to everyone for the kind words. I really appreciate it.

cv2065

04-05-2025, 09:29 PM

Blitzboy54

04-06-2025, 05:43 PM

I am moving down the punch list and found some room for improvement with my passenger side slider. When I built my first roadster I was given at some point a $200 credit to use at the website. One of the items I picked up was a set of FFR seat sliders. I never used them but I figured I still own it so why not use it for the passenger side. Having a double locker wont't matter on that side since I am not likely to have a passenger for a track day. Anyhow they mount up nice as it's a little shorter and designed for the space. Also works as advertised.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212300&d=1743974377

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212299&d=1743974377

The thing is though that one rail locks the other is completely free. So what happens is the seat has a little wiggle to it. The seat base is polymer so between the natural flex and the fact that the inside track is free it moves back and forth on that side just a little but it's noticeable. I suspect that since the FFR seats have a steel frame this is only an issue for me. Since the tracks are completely installed, drilled and mounted rivnuts and whatnot, I decided this was my solution.

I drilled the inner rail and installed a safety pin. This completely locks it and the seat wiggle has disappeared. My thought was I only move it to clean behind it, it's now a two step operation.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212301&d=1743974513

I also broke down and purchased a Metco safety hoop. I was sure I could make one or modify something generic but at the end of the day the Metco unit is undefeated. It just works.

Everything clears but not by more than an inch. I have some 12mm SS spacers. I am going to pickup some longer bolts and raise the hoop a some

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212298&d=1743974324

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212297&d=1743974324

Blitzboy54

04-06-2025, 06:00 PM

More odds and ends

I don't particularly like the way the gas struts for the trunk are setup. The FFR instructions have you putting the mount right inline with the inside harness to clear the rollbar. I am just not a fan. I saw and old thread were Jeff suggested reversing the HW and putting it on the inside of the roll bar. Not a bad idea but for me I have 2 issues. First is I have 2" roll bars and second is my cubby is in the way. I have seen folks put the mount in between the harness mount holes (my preference) but I don't love the extreme angle it forces the strut to take. I had some leftover hardware from my engine cover and goofed around with it. I came up with this. I think this is the solution for me.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212317&d=1743976846

I am becoming a rivnut savant. I can't be stopped, I won't be stopped. I put these little buggers everywhere.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212303&d=1743974584

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212304&d=1743974584

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212302&d=1743974513

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212318&d=1743976846

jengum

04-06-2025, 08:08 PM

What size riv nuts did you use for the DS foot box access cover...1/4-20?

gbranham

04-06-2025, 08:34 PM

I'd say 8 rivnuts ought to be sufficient to hold your shifter trim ring. Lol.

Blitzboy54

04-06-2025, 08:55 PM

What size riv nuts did you use for the DS foot box access cover...1/4-20?

6mm, the only reason I use any imperial hardware at all is because it’s what comes with the kit.

I'd say 8 rivnuts ought to be sufficient to hold your shifter trim ring. Lol.

Can’t be too careful

460.465USMC

04-08-2025, 02:39 PM

I'm more than a little late to the party, but a belated congrats on your first start...and go-kart! Ain't no moss growing underneath your build! Seems as though you like the Coyote so far. Just wait until you get it out on the road for real. It won't disappoint.

I'm a huge sucker for orange, so I really like how you're working it into your color scheme.

Good call on the DGD push-button start. Liked it so much on my first build, I'm doing the same again on my Coupe--standard vehicle version. And, yep, I tried out the proximity feature, but it chewed through the FOB's battery too quickly. Thankfully, there is an emergency start procedure, so a dead FOB battery won't leave you stranded. I tested it in a real life situation, just to be certain. :p

Keep up the excellent work!

Blitzboy54

04-09-2025, 06:23 AM

Chris!

Always good to hear from you. I have been dropping in on your coupe. Looking great. Are you able to draw any comparisons between the two builds yet? I always assumed a roadster would be easier. Gotta be rewarding to step up to the next level.

460.465USMC

04-09-2025, 10:45 AM

Chris!

Always good to hear from you. I have been dropping in on your coupe. Looking great. Are you able ti draw any comparisons between the two builds yet? I always assumed a roadster would be easier. Gotta be rewarding to step up to the next level.

So far the builds have been pretty similar, except I spent quite a bit more time on the panels. Some of that on fitment, and more than some on "custom" panels for the engine bay (my choice). Though I expect similarities to diverge somewhat, so ask me again in a couple years. :p Either way, it's definitely rewarding and fun.

Blitzboy54

04-09-2025, 09:06 PM

Cubby, insulation and exhaust

I completed my storage by adding carpet after riveting. I put a rubber edge seal along the aluminum edge the marries to the back wall

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212491&d=1744248865

I put a USB/USB-C charging port in the side. One of the unexpected challenges was finding a port that didn't have any lights. 99% of the have some sort of LED lighting. Funny thing is when I finally found one it was triple the price. I want this port hot all the time. My thinking is hanging out at a car show and want to charge up the phone. I like the idea of tucking it in the cubby plugged in without turning the car on to ACC. I also leave the phone plugged in hanging out in the cubby while driving and use the bluetooth for navigation and messaging

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212492&d=1744248865

I laid down the rest of the sound/heat mat. I put it on the backside of the transmission tunnel and only put it on the side wall up to the lip of the cover. this way when it's riveted down it will be flush. I had my cover removable on my last build but this one it will not be the case. If I have to do anything in that area it will have to be from underneath. Form over function on this one.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212493&d=1744248912

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212494&d=1744248912

Last I had my pipes welded up. I found a kid down the street (certified welder) working as a construction contractor who also welds on the side. He did a beautiful job. Even cleaned up my ugly work from before. Tips and support tabs are on for good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212496&d=1744248956

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212495&d=1744248956

Question, will the support tab mid muffler and the straight headers be enough or should I do a turnbuckle support as well. There really isn't any flexibility there so I am not sure how much it will help.

dbo_texas

04-09-2025, 09:53 PM

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212495&d=1744248956

What are the brass nuts you are using? My kit came with locking nuts (deformed female thread)...I've seen these brass ones on a few builds. Is this something FFR ships with the pipes now (my kit is from 2018)? Or is another "fix" that many people install due to nuts loosening from thermal cycling?

Blitzboy54

04-10-2025, 05:20 AM

They are the recommendation of the master builders around here. The bits that come with the kit essentially weld themselves in after a while with the heat. The brass nuts never seize. I got a box of them from Amazon. SS bolts and brass nuts.

https://a.co/d/cGJdwfZ

Jeff Kleiner

04-10-2025, 10:07 AM

I think I was one of the first to introduce the deep brass nuts to the forums---I was taught about them by my old school mentor over 45 years ago! The metallurgy between the brass and steel keeps them tight with heat cycles yet they don't seize. Win-Win!

Jesse, you don't need front hangers with the straight 4 into 4 headers, only when you have the extra flex joint with J-pipes or the ball flange headers.

Jeff

gbranham

04-10-2025, 01:10 PM

I also used the brass nuts, at Kleiner's recommendation. They are magical! They draw up super tight, and don't come loose, yet easy to loosen when needed.

Greg

212509

TTimmy

04-11-2025, 10:38 AM

It's all looking really good - love the engine cover!

Tim

Blitzboy54

04-13-2025, 07:53 PM

Trunk carpet

I didn't buy any extra carpet. I knew I would need more than what comes with the kit but I also knew I wasn't going to use the transmission tunnel piece so I thought I had enough. Unfortunately This was not enough for both the drop trunk and the cubby. I tried to find something local that worked but struck out. I ordered and extra piece from FFR and will finish the the back when it arrives

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212633&d=1744634493

I prefitted the fuel pump cover with (you guessed it) 4mm rivnuts!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212623&d=1744590002

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212624&d=1744590052

Rollbar improvement

Earlier in my build when I mounted my roll bars I have a few minor alignment issues. I ended up with a small gap.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212625&d=1744590052

To properly fix this I would need to cut off and re weld the rear stud. This is not going to happen. So just like in my 100 year old house, it is more important to look right than be right. With that in mind I ground down the contact points of the back leg so it makes clean contact with the roll bar. I marked the "high spots" and ground that down than tapered it up to the other end. This worked.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212627&d=1744590087

Lastly I wanted to secure the connection. I do not have any interest in putting in the Frankenstein bolt. I don't like the look. I ended up doing the same thing I did on my last build. I purchased a pair of 3/8-16 plugs, drilled and tapped under the bar. This binds the sleeve with the back leg. I will powder coat it with the roll bar and secure it with a little thread locker.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212626&d=1744590087

gbranham

04-13-2025, 08:17 PM

Nice job, Jesse! Looking awesome!

Greg

Blitzboy54

04-15-2025, 05:28 PM

I had gone to order a piece of carpet from FFR but paused because the shipping was almost as much as the carpet. I decided to wait and see if there was anything else I needed down the road so I could consolidate the shipping charges. Well I'm glad I did because my friend Scott reached out and just happened to have a spare piece in his garage. I should probably just save us all a lot of trouble and go right to Scott's house when I need something

Now the trunk carpet is done.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212662&d=1744753327

Moving on to the cockpit upholstery

This is by far my favorite part of the build. This is where you find out if what you planned is really going to work or not, so here we go! I start by gluing the tunnel cover to the top (only the top) of the transmission tunnel. The thought here is get it set on top, cut and wrap the hols for the storage box and cup holders then set it and rivet the tunnel down along the sides and back then finish the sides.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212663&d=1744753385

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212664&d=1744753413

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212665&d=1744753452

I put the inner footbox pieces in and mounted the head unit (hopefully for good). I have the back piece held up with clamps to see how it would mesh. I put the shift boot and trim ring in. I am still not 100% sold on the shift boot. I think I like it but at the same time the grey isn't a prefect match. I am going to roll with it for now as it looks sharp against all the black.

So far so good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212666&d=1744753452

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212667&d=1744753510

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212668&d=1744753510

gbranham

04-15-2025, 07:11 PM

Looking great, dude. Factory Five is pretty egregious with their shipping charges. I paid something like $30 in shipping for their louvers. Every time I have to order something from them, it chaps my hide.

OB6

04-15-2025, 08:03 PM

Every time I see your seats, I get more eager to get mine. They should be done any day. I placed the order in December!

Really nice job with the console!

Blitzboy54

04-17-2025, 06:36 AM

Every time I see your seats, I get more eager to get mine. They should be done any day. I placed the order in December!

Really nice job with the console!

It’s exciting for sure. Totally worth the wait. He posted mine on his FB page right before he shipped them. Perhaps you can get a preview there? Looking forward to seeing them.

Blitzboy54

04-17-2025, 04:55 PM

Ok, I found something I like less that riveting. I officially like carpet installation less.

I will say this, a lot of people don't like the FFR carpet but I really do. Everything fits for the most part, if anything you have to trim a couple of pieces down but it's a lot of complicated shapes that all work together. Once you clear away all the loose material I think it looks pretty sharp. I used 3M Super 90. I also used a respirator especially in the foot box. The fumes can be a lot, especially when you get your head in there.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212766&d=1744924759

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212767&d=1744924759

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212761&d=1744924332

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212762&d=1744924332

All in all I think the black carpet pulls everything together. I of course put the seat back in to see how it looks.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212764&d=1744924385

gbranham

04-17-2025, 05:21 PM

Nice, dude! I dreaded carpet install, too, but found the FFR carpet to be pretty nice, and I had almost no trimming to do. Looking good!

Its Bruce

04-18-2025, 12:33 PM

It was a pain, but I found it more rewarding than most other parts of the build. Almost like carpeting is what makes a car a car. That probably says more about me than it does carpeting itself.

Interior looks great - very clean.

OB6

04-18-2025, 04:38 PM

I put off carpeting as long as possible, but found it gratifying in the end.

Blitzboy54

04-20-2025, 09:09 PM

I tried to go out on another go cart run to collect some engine tune data. The first time the car was pretty squirrely. I found I had neglected to fully tighten a few linkage points in the upper A arm so when this was fixed I tried again. Still squirrely. Time to move on to an alignment. I purchased an inexpensive camber tool from amazon and calibrated it against a level. I realize this isn't going to hold up long term, the goal here is to put it in the wheelhouse before I take it to a shop near the end of the build.

I set the ride height (I like mine on the little on the higher side) and got to work. I measured the center of the car in both the front and back. I marked it on both the frame and the floor. I then measured equally to each jack stand and ran a string from front to back.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212852&d=1745198426

I used a level and set the edge against the grease fittings of the upper and lower A arms and secured it to the wheel with a ratchet strap. I then measured this angle to set the caster. I used the camber gauge against the level. It goes as far as 6.5 degrees. This is a touch short of the 7 degrees needed but that will be close enough for now

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212853&d=1745198426

I worked the camber and toe back and forth. They tend to knock each other out but every adjustment it gets closer. Eventually I was able to get both into spec.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212856&d=1745198563

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212857&d=1745198563

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212854&d=1745198487

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212855&d=1745198487

It turns out everything was pretty far out. The wheels were all essentially pointing in different directions. It looks right after all the tweaking. I look forward to taking it out for another spin.

cv2065

04-21-2025, 07:02 AM

Wow, you are getting close Jessie. Looking good dude! I just had a thought that you should get your calipers done up in that orange! :cool:

Blitzboy54

04-21-2025, 08:48 AM

Wow, you are getting close Jessie. Looking good dude! I just had a thought that you should get your calipers done up in that orange! :cool:

I 100% thought about this and went as far as contacting Wilwood about it. Long story short it was cost prohibitive.

Jeff Kleiner

04-21-2025, 10:50 AM

Good on ya' Jesse!

...I worked the camber and toe back and forth. They tend to knock each other out but every adjustment it gets closer....

Just for future reference...toe does not affect caster or camber but they affect toe and each other. Always set toe last after caster and camber are where you want them.

Jeff

jengum

04-21-2025, 03:03 PM

Mike.Bray

04-21-2025, 03:59 PM

I'm also interested in how you set the caster. If caster is uneven from side to side it will pull.

Be sure and check the air pressure in the tires, should be around 23 PSI. If you had a tire store mount them they would have pumped them up to about 35 PSI. That will make it drive really funny.

cv2065

04-21-2025, 04:17 PM

I 100% thought about this and went as far as contacting Wilwood about it. Long story short it was cost prohibitive.

Any local powder coater should be able to it. I can't imagine it would cost that much. Annoying to have to disassemble/reassemble and bleed everything again though. Either way, it's all looking great!!

PNWTim

04-21-2025, 04:52 PM

When you order Wilwood calipers a custom color is $175 per caliper. Multiply by 6 for the total...

Blitzboy54

04-21-2025, 08:20 PM

Hi Jessie...can you describe more how you measured the caster? I had trouble following how you placed the level against the upper and lower control arm grease fittings and using a ratchet strap to attach to the wheel.

I'm also interested in how you set the caster. If caster is uneven from side to side it will pull.

Be sure and check the air pressure in the tires, should be around 23 PSI. If you had a tire store mount them they would have pumped them up to about 35 PSI. That will make it drive really funny.

I should have taken a better picture. I used a level but any straight edge would work. I strapped it snug against the tire with a ratchet strap (wrapped it around the tire and pinned the level to the tire). I lined the bottom edge with the lower A arm grease fitting. I then positioned the upper part of the level with the upper A arm grease fitting. For all intents and purposes this creates a castor line from center to center of the control arms. I then snugged the strap down a click so it wouldn't slip. If you hold the magnet of the camber gauge against the level it will tell you the angle. I adjusted the sleeves until I got to 6 1/2 degrees (as far as my gauge goes). This is a half a degree short but again I am using inexpensive tools, a ratchet strap, my eyeball and a string. The only goal here is to get it in the ball park for go carting or eventually to be able to drive it to the alignment shop.

I drove it today around the block and it's night and day better than it was. So mission accomplished. I wouldn't do any spirited driving until it was properly aligned and corner weighed.

Blitzboy54

04-21-2025, 08:25 PM

When you order Wilwood calipers a custom color is $175 per caliper. Multiply by 6 for the total...

They quoted me more than that when I called last summer. You also have to purchase them from them vs FFR. The price is about 25% more for the kit, plus the color. I could like Chad said have them stripped and done locally but for some reason I got hung up on losing the logo. I can always do it down the road.

cv2065

04-21-2025, 09:26 PM

They quoted me more than that when I called last summer. You also have to purchase them from them vs FFR. The price is about 25% more for the kit, plus the color. I could like chad said have them stripped and done locally but for some reason I got hung up on loosing the logo. I can always do it down the road.

$175 per caliper for a custom color? Whew...I would have passed too. I'm hip to the Wilwood logo as well. Like I said, you've got a stunner there either way. Can't wait to see you on the road!

Blitzboy54

04-24-2025, 07:53 PM

Seat Belts and Bulb seal

Now that the carpet is in I moved on to the bulb seal (I already test ft the body). I have also re instituded a little hack I learned last build. If you stack a large and small bumper that comes with the FFR kit it gives you 5/8 lift on the front of the body.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213027&d=1745541587

I also closed up the drivers footbox. This has taken a little getting used to as I am still updating my engine tune. It was nice being able to pull the clutch switch by hand. Have to climb in the cockpit now (First world problems)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213020&d=1745540668

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213021&d=1745540668

I went with a 2" cam lock harness from Zbros. They are designed with integrated padding on the shoulders and have the look I wanted.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213023&d=1745540724

It's also a 5 point harness.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213028&d=1745542128

The seats are setup in a way that makes using or not using the submarine belt really easy. Just lift the bottom cushion, pull the belt back through and stash it there.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213026&d=1745540773

Easy peasy

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213025&d=1745540773

Jeff Kleiner

04-25-2025, 07:18 AM

It's looking really great Jesse! I'm debating what I want to do on seats but think I may have to bite the bullet and go with the Intatrims.

If you stack a large and small bumper that comes with the FFR kit it gives you 5/8 lift on the front of the body.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213027&d=1745541587

That bumper is a little farther rearward than ideal. I like for it to pick up the body all the way at the end of the tubes:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132309&d=1593171081

Maybe just add another pair farther forward.

Cheers!

Jeff

Blitzboy54

04-25-2025, 08:06 AM

It's looking really great Jesse! I'm debating what I want to do on seats but think I may have to bite the bullet and go with the Intatrims.

That bumper is a little farther rearward than ideal. I like for it to pick up the body all the way at the end of the tubes:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132309&d=1593171081

Maybe just add another pair farther forward.

Cheers!

Jeff

Will do!

OB6

04-25-2025, 08:39 AM

It's looking really great Jesse! I'm debating what I want to do on seats but think I may have to bite the bullet and go with the Intatrims.

Do it, join the club Jeff! It's great that they can be customized any way you want. Just waiting for mine to arrive...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212752&d=1744897451

cv2065

04-25-2025, 10:05 AM

+2 on the Intatrim seats. Nice quality stuff and great to deal with. You're almost there Jessie. Looking SWEET!!!

Blitzboy54

04-26-2025, 04:55 PM

Chin Spoiler

The general direction of my build is putting a modern twist on the project. Modern wheels, seats, dash and a console that includes bluetooth. To continue the theme I decided from the beginning I wanted a chin spoiler. FFR doesn't make one, there have been a few vendors that have come and gone that have offered them in the past. There is a company TruFiber (can be seen here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XoX1fhUoo1Y) that makes a carbon fiber version for the factory five but I don't particularly like it. I want something that is painted in and has some contour to it.

This brings me to Backdraft. They offer a fiberglass splitter for their cars. Their bodies are different than ours so it's not a direct fit. It will require some trimming and molding. This is what it looks like out of the box. I have it roughly marked and remembered to take a picture just as I started cutting.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213068&d=1745700985

After marking and trimming this is the first draft. You can see I have the edge marked where it will have to be trimmed to match the wheel well. I knocked down the parting lines in that spot so I can get a clean fit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213070&d=1745701046

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213071&d=1745701046

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213069&d=1745700985

I also got a start on the lights. I am going with the Jeep halo style with a twist on turn signals. A fellow builder's "Mako" build goes by the handle topherchrisb (whos is also doing a modern build) had an incredible idea for LED lights for the turn signals. He found Jeep side lights and repurposed them. Also designed a really cool bezel for them. He was awesome enough to share the 3D print file with me and I have shamelessly copied his lead. I will break down what I did in a future post but to give credit where credit is due please go to his build thread starting with post #95. Thanks again Chris!!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?41821-topherchrisb-s-project-hurry-up-and-wait/page3

These are particularly awesome because they also have halo running lights and function as amber turn signals.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213072&d=1745701083

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213074&d=1745701289

cv2065

04-26-2025, 06:18 PM

Blitzboy54

04-26-2025, 06:49 PM

That's what I'm talking about Jessie! I'm thinking of doing the same. I didn't like the CF one from TruFiber either, but always like this one from Backdraft. Plenty of cars with it. Looks like other than the side trimming that it fits pretty true to the bottom of the front end?

Not sure how BD affixes it to their front end. How are you going to go about doing it? 520 Speedworks did install the TruFiber in a video if you haven't seen it. Not a direct bolt on even though it was made for the body.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XoX1fhUoo1Y

They use button heads and nuts and drill through the body. I am still trying to figure out how I want to go. The BD is designed to take it off if you want so they put a rubber liner behind it. I am probably going to permanently attach it. I just don't see how I would be able keep the oil cooler opening from getting scratched as a removable piece. I am sort of working it out as I go. I may try to utilize those splitter rails though like he had in that video. I think a set might look cool. We will see.

**Edit** As I am typing this I realize it might make sense just to remove the part that wraps around the lower part of the oil cooler opening all together and have it run just underneath it. I think that might make it cleaner, also as a bonus I could make it removable.

danmas

04-26-2025, 08:22 PM

Jesse your first build killed it. This build is insanely cool and makes me want to do my next one even more…. So inspiring seeing your skill. Amazing dude, simply amazing.

danmas

04-26-2025, 09:57 PM

Dash

Glove box

I broke everything back down and built the glove box. I did have one issue. First the bar that the hinges attach to are pre drilled. The holes do not line up with the glove box holes. They needed to be widened significantly. The other is the aluminum plate that gets epoxied to the glove box door. The grooves that go around the hinges needed to be cut a CM deeper. If you don't the plate doesn't fit right. Originally I wanted to install a push button lockable latch. I don't love having to use a key every time but all the latches I found were too big. I did however find this one that better fits the look of the dash. It uses a round key and looks pretty sharp. I also lined the box with felt, I am unsure If I will also line the door. We will see.
Could you share where you got your glovebox latch from? I like it and want to put it in mine….

cv2065

04-26-2025, 10:23 PM

They use button heads and nuts and drill through the body. I am still trying to figure out how I want to go. The BD is designed to take it off if you want so they put a rubber liner behind it. I am probably going to permanently attach it. I just don't see how I would be able keep the oil cooler opening from getting scratched as a removable piece. I am sort of working it out as I go. I may try to utilize those splitter rails though like he had in that video. I think a set might look cool. We will see.

**Edit** As I am typing this I realize it might make sense just to remove the part that wraps around the lower part of the oil cooler opening all together and have it run just underneath it. I think that might make it cleaner, also as a bonus I could make it removable.

As an FYI, Mike Forte has the mold and can make these chin spoilers that fit FFR Roadsters. Not sure what the cost is but I sent him another note to find out. I think they look like this.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/194e5d4f-f0fb-4578-9f77-d19291346077.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/194e5d4f-f0fb-4578-9f77-d19291346077.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I think the Backdraft one looks a little more 'modern' but the other one might fit better. Not sure. Anxious to see what you come up with Jessie.

Blitzboy54

04-27-2025, 07:04 AM

Could you share where you got your glovebox latch from? I like it and want to put it in mine….

Yes sir,

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B96Q2PVK?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_2&th=1

FYI, the body of the latch is about the same. I needed to massage the hole and make some adjustments to the latching device to make everything fit. It's a little deeper and wider. You can see here what I did.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213095&d=1745754718

As an FYI, Mike Forte has the mold and can make these chin spoilers that fit FFR Roadsters. Not sure what the cost is but I sent him another note to find out. I think they look like this.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/194e5d4f-f0fb-4578-9f77-d19291346077.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/194e5d4f-f0fb-4578-9f77-d19291346077.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I think the Backdraft one looks a little more 'modern' but the other one might fit better. Not sure. Anxious to see what you come up with Jessie.

I saw that old thread on the other forum. I reached out to Erik to see how he mounted it. I'm curious if Mike still makes them. I'm happy enough so far with the initial fit of this one that I am unlikely to change course but never say never. Let me know what you find out. The reference point is $450, that's what I paid for the Backdraft part.

cv2065

04-27-2025, 11:51 AM

Yes sir,

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B96Q2PVK?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_2&th=1

FYI, the body of the latch is about the same. I needed to massage the hole and make some adjustments to the latching device to make everything fit. It's a little deeper and wider. You can see here what I did.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213095&d=1745754718

I saw that old thread on the other forum. I reached out to Erik to see how he mounted it. I'm curious if Mike still makes them. I'm happy enough so far with the initial fit of this one that I am unlikely to change course but never say never. Let me know what you find out. The reference point is $450, that's what I paid for the Backdraft part.

Looks like that one is a no go I think. Mike Forte came back and said its only for MKI and MKII and not sure how it would fit on an MKIV. Probably good to stay where you are. Iconic is out of stock of those chin spoilers. Must be a popular item!

Blitzboy54

04-27-2025, 01:29 PM

Looks like that one is a no go I think. Mike Forte came back and said its only for MKI and MKII and not sure how it would fit on an MKIV. Probably good to stay where you are. Iconic is out of stock of those chin spoilers. Must be a popular item!

Give them a call. It said out of stock 5 months ago when I was ready to pull the trigger. The guys who answered the phone said he had several in the back and asked if I wanted one. He gave me a warning to have it "professionally installed". I just said yes of course and left it at that. I didn't tell him it was for a Factory Five. Sometimes people get weird about stuff like that. At any rate he shipped it out the next day.

Blitzboy54

04-27-2025, 07:15 PM

I have committed to what I believe is the best way to adapt the Backdraft splitter to the Factory Five body. It's designed to wrap around the bottom of the oil cooler vent but it's a pretty tight fit. I don't think the dimensions are the same (it can be made to work like this I just prefer it this way). I knocked it down and sanded it a bit with the ultimate goal of having it line up with the bottom of the opening. For all intents and purposes it will be an extension of the bottom opening.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213107&d=1745778779

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213110&d=1745779891

I also figured out how I am going to mount the base. I used 5/16 button heads, fender washers and lock nuts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213103&d=1745778674

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213104&d=1745778674

There will be some button heads along the top. This is unavoidable as the contours of the BD spoiler are not the same. It will require mechanical force to hold it' new shape.

topherchrisb

04-28-2025, 10:47 AM

Chin Spoiler

I also got a start on the lights. I am going with the Jeep halo style with a twist on turn signals. A fellow builder's "Mako" build goes by the handle topherchrisb (whos is also doing a modern build) had an incredible idea for LED lights for the turn signals. He found Jeep side lights and repurposed them. Also designed a really cool bezel for them. He was awesome enough to share the 3D print file with me and I have shamelessly copied his lead. I will break down what I did in a future post but to give credit where credit is due please go to his build thread starting with post #95. Thanks again Chris!!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?41821-topherchrisb-s-project-hurry-up-and-wait/page3

These are particularly awesome because they also have halo running lights and function as amber turn signals.

I am a big fan of your previous roadster build and took some inspiration from it for mine. This build is turning into a real eye catcher as well. I can't wait to see the final product. Glad you like the lighting solution. It seems like you'll be able to road test it before me even though I have a two year head start on you. I may be a little embarrassed in that fact. :P

Blitzboy54

05-02-2025, 03:17 PM

I am a big fan of your previous roadster build and took some inspiration from it for mine. This build is turning into a real eye catcher as well. I can't wait to see the final product. Glad you like the lighting solution. It seems like you'll be able to road test it before me even though I have a two year head start on you. I may be a little embarrassed in that fact. :P

Thank you, I really appreciate the kind words. I admire the direction your build has taken as well. She's going to be a beaut. I hope you are able to work out your check engine light issues as well. Fingers crossed.

Moving down the line

As I wait for the parts I ordered to secure the splitter I have started moving north to south down the body. Fist stop the front quick jack holes. Nothing fancy here just casually massaged the holes bigger with a stone until they fit the grommet opening. These are a must for me. I just can't imagine I would be satisfied with the look if there was not some sort of bumper there.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213293&d=1746214111

Moving onto the side louvers. I used rivets to mount the tabs, they are behind the blades in a way that makes them all but invisible. I will also powder coat these so any imperfections will be unseen.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213295&d=1746214157

First thing is the opening does not line up with the pre built louvers. My goal is to take as little material as possible while still roughly putting the holes into the proper shape. I also want to leave plenty of meat on the bone for my body guy to work with. When leveling it with the horizontal opening it ends up looking a bit like this

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213291&d=1746214111

You can see the lines I marked for making it match.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213292&d=1746214111

After fixing the opening I used bonded studs with adhesive and let them set. The best method for me was to put them in the mounting holes with the louver strapped to the body with the zip tie. I then put adhesive on the back of the boded studs and squished them into the body. This way everything lines up. I will sand the excess down and add a little more over the top before I put the bed liner on

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213294&d=1746214157

They set up pretty nice. I am just using 10-24 nuts to hold them in place.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213296&d=1746214157

Blitzboy54

05-03-2025, 04:07 PM

Chin Spoiler mock up complete

The shape of the Backdraft part is not a direct fit to a Factory Five body but it's close. I removed the bit that wrapped around the bottom of the oil cooler vent and made it level with the bottom. I also had to widen the bottom a bit and round out the corners. I marked a few points around the contours to the likeliest places I would need to secure it. Where I had the clamps was the point that had the biggest positive impact on fitment, so I started there.

I purchased some anodized titanium button head bolts (6mm). These will keep their look over time better than painted or powder coated screws. I put a rubber washer underneath and fender washers in the back. This is my permanent solution.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213326&d=1746304461

I put one more bolt at each edge and did a rough trim around the MK4 fender. Again, leaving a little meat on the bone for proper shaping and finish work down the line.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213327&d=1746304524

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213325&d=1746304461

I think as a look it came out about best case scenario. I think the BD unit can be made to fit without a crazy amount of modification.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213324&d=1746304461

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213323&d=1746304406

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213322&d=1746304406

Lastly, one lesson of design that stuck with me is something my dad said once. "If you can't hide it, accentuate it". With that in mind I am keeping this in my back pocket for after body and paint. If I don't like the look of the button head screws I purchased a set of chin spoiler brackets. My thought was it might look cool to use the upper part to secure the spoiler in place and drill a hole in the bottom and give the look that the bracket is holding it up. This also might look gimmicky so I will wait to see how it goes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213321&d=1746304406

PNWTim

05-03-2025, 04:24 PM

I think there is a definite "race car" vibe with exposed fasteners which I kind of like. Bolt on scoops, spoilers, etc. that give a car an aggressive git er done kind of feel.

cv2065

05-03-2025, 06:01 PM

Damn dude. You did great with that spoiler. I'm going to have to follow your lead. Only issue is that Iconic is out of stock. DOH!!!

cc2Arider

05-04-2025, 10:51 AM

Nice work Jesse!

I really like that spoiler :)

I'd like to do something similar for my build :cool:

Craig C

Blitzboy54

05-06-2025, 12:49 PM

Colors, colors and more colors

I decided day one (as evidenced by the first post in this thread) that I am committed to orange. I still don't know what form that will take but I keep circling around the same 3 themes. There are risks and potential rewards to all of them. The biggest and only real risk to me is I just don't want to wish I had done something different. Most builders (including me on my first one) keep the color a bit of secret until the end. I totally get that. It's personal choice and maybe it's not always welcome to invite a critique of those choices. I am sort of working this process out in public because you never know what someone else might see that you didn't. I love hearing new ideas even if I ultimately go a different direction.

With that said the only thing I won't do is paint the car black. Nothing looks sharper in the show room or worse on the road. I owned a black sports car once and regretted it days in. I will drive it too often to get away with black.

My central color inspiration is Chevy C8 orange (amplify orange). That doesn't mean I am married to the paint code code I am open to other shades but this is a great starting point.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213459&d=1746547691

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213460&d=1746547691

My leader in the clubhouse on color scheme has been based on this backdraft I found. I think it shows how this scheme kind of works. Truth be told this was a very bright red and I played with the screen settings to make it look like I wanted it to. The grey does really pop against it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213457&d=1746547586

The next option is more subdued by making the body color grey. This significantly changes the look and feel of the car. It makes it a lot safer of color choice. I know it works because Scott Wareagle did it with his build. My shades would be different but you can see that it works. I put his car in the same tier as Paul's Roadster builds. This is as high a praise as exists around here. I didn't feel comfortable taking pictures off his build so I will just leave a link here. Check it out if you haven't seen it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?21312-Wareaglescott-s-Coyote-build-thread-INDEX-ADDED-TO-POST-1/page14

Lastly I just can't shake some form of the Gulf Coast look. I love this and refuse to walk away from the idea.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213458&d=1746547586

I purchased some hood louvers from Raptor Speedworks. I am going with a smaller 4x12 angled vent. This functional, looks great, gives me another color opportunity as well as continues the modern theme. I did a few more mock ups on Paint. None of this is to scale and largely looks like one of my wife's elementary school students did it but you get the idea. Once the car is fully assembled I am going to have some renderings done so I can make sure I like what I am doing. In the meantime don't be shy if you see something that might work. I always appreciate feedback.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213461&d=1746550994

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213463&d=1746550994

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213462&d=1746550994

Mike.Bray

05-06-2025, 01:07 PM

Jeff Kleiner

05-06-2025, 01:07 PM

If you decide to go with the Gulf theme I have the codes for all 3 colors---which was a chore to track down!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213464&d=1746554704

Jeff

213464

OB6

05-06-2025, 02:48 PM

I'm a sucker for orange. Do you want an orange car or a car with orange accents? Seems like that would be the first decision. But I know, every picture can change your mind!

Blitzboy54

05-06-2025, 03:12 PM

I bet if you put this (https://www.houseofkolor.com/kolors/detail/index.html?id=HOK000802-01&ref=kolors) over Orion Silver (https://www.houseofkolor.com/kolors/detail/index.html?id=S2-BC02&ref=kolors) it would be the most spectacular orange you ever saw.

Is there a way to get them to demo a combination like that?

I'm a sucker for orange. Do you want an orange car or a car with orange accents? Seems like that would be the first decision. But I know, every picture can change your mind!

Yes :)

Mike.Bray

05-06-2025, 03:44 PM

Is there a way to get them to demo a combination like that?

You could call HOK and talk to Reed, their main tech guy.

The other option is to reach out to Coast Airbrush (https://www.coastairbrush.com/), they can sell you small samples if you have an airbrush (hello Temu) or they can even do aerosol cans although I'm not sure if they can do all colors. My car is HOK Cobalt Blue over Orion Silver and it is the bluest blue you'll ever see. Everyone, and I mean everyone that sees the car comments on the color and how gorgeous it is.

dbo_texas

05-06-2025, 07:28 PM

J R Jones

05-06-2025, 08:44 PM

Blitzboy54

05-07-2025, 08:06 AM

There is an orange with more impact than most you have covered here. I worked in Harley development with the styling guys. They specified the racing team colors and picked AMC Big Bad Orange from the 60's AMX. I saw an AMX at a show last summer and it still impresses.
https://bringatrailer.com/2015/09/17/big-bad-orange-1969-amc-amx-go-pack/
Another orange I like is Ford Mustang Calypso Coral.
jim

213481

I like it a lot. I found this video of a resto project. Gave me an opportunity to see it new and he did the engine block in teal which gives a sense of what that combination would look like. Thank you

https://youtu.be/X1M8uCrKa4o?si=9FNA068ISewg-Z2A

CW_MI

05-07-2025, 10:04 AM

Jeff Kleiner

05-07-2025, 10:08 AM

...My central color inspiration is Chevy C8 orange (amplify orange)...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213460&d=1746547691

Are you sure about that being Amplify Orange Jesse? I think it might actually be Sebring Orange (or if it is Amplify the photo may have been color enhanced). I have 2 autocross friends with orange C8s and they are somewhat different; one is Amplify (code GC5) and the other is Sebring (code G26). In this photo Amplify is on the left and Sebring is on the right.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.corvetteforum.com-vbulletin/1297x975/pxl_20211003_144918892_58d61154ab864c25043439c2da4 fabc4c81157ec.jpg

Amplify is a little more muted, a bit yellow, kind of pastel and is a base/clear with no pearl or flake. Sebring is more intense...and is a tri-coat/3 stage with the mid coat carrying pearl which makes light "pop" on the curves.

The true test is to see the colors in person either on the cars or with an actual paint spray out.

Just FYI, this is a spray out I did for the orange that I used on the Gulf livery Coupe:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213488&d=1746630353

Cheers,
Jeff

213488

Blitzboy54

05-07-2025, 10:28 AM

That's probably right. I got those last 2 photos from the interwebs. I did in fact see an amplify orange in person. I was at some fancy restaurant in San Jose and it was parked out front. I think your right about those pics. This was my original reference photo.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202889&d=1724005210

Thanks for clearing that up. This illustrates the point of this exercise, I have already seen some real nice options that I didn't know about. I may like the Sebring better. lol

Thank you for the clarification.

dbo_texas

05-07-2025, 01:39 PM

If you are considering the Gulf livery, do a search for Backdraft RTB4 with the gulf colors. That will give you a great idea. They actually terminate the stripes around the nose a couple of different ways so you can get some different ideas there too.

This is the Gulf Livery on a BD that I was thinking about:
https://www.rcnmag.com/fresh-finds/gulf-inspired-backdraft-rt4-roadster

Blitzboy54

05-07-2025, 03:20 PM

This is the Gulf Livery on a BD that I was thinking about:
https://www.rcnmag.com/fresh-finds/gulf-inspired-backdraft-rt4-roadster

That's really nice. When you get a picture in the sun you can see the paint quality. I think if I go the Gulf Livery route I would want to modify the blue a bit. Something darker and metallic perhaps? Thank you for the link!

A couple examples

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206567&d=1731983987

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213502&d=1746649107

Blitzboy54

05-07-2025, 08:07 PM

Exploring the Gulf Livery theme. I really like the Chevy Amplify orange with some shade of blue is maybe the best of both worlds? I definitely need to see that BBO in person now too.

I found some color mixes that I think really work. Also doesn't hurt that they are all painted on super cars.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213509&d=1746666058

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213510&d=1746666058

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213506&d=1746665793

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213507&d=1746665793

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213508&d=1746665793

TXeverydayDad

05-07-2025, 09:28 PM

They all look great but the Lamborghini combination looks the best to my eyes.

RogerRoger88

05-08-2025, 07:04 AM

I like the gulf livery combo of the first pic - Ford GT MKII.

Here's a thread comparing the Amplify Orange and Sebring Orange. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ange-pics.html

On a cloudy day, I prefer Sebring. On a sunny day, I'm liking Amplify. Why does picking colors have to be so hard?

Blitzboy54

05-08-2025, 06:06 PM

I found a couple other colors that I like. If i go this route I really need to figure out if I want metallic or not. It really is a very different look. I am pretty sure at this point whatever orange I go with will be a solid. A lot to think about. Solid colors look very different. I would like to find the same color in both forms to see how it looks.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213547&d=1746744484

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213548&d=1746744484

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213549&d=1746745470

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213559&d=1746750184

danmas

05-08-2025, 06:28 PM

Admittedly I like the grey but it feels very different from the "hold on to your giblets, this car is gonna rock your world" look your orange has going for it...

JayOH

05-08-2025, 06:48 PM

I’m fond of an orange paint scheme too. My dream car will be orange with black accents. 2 of my favorite orange shades come from Dodge:

1) Gen 3 Viper Copperhead Edition (Metallic)
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213562&d=1746751392

2) Gen 5 Viper TA Orange
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213563&d=1746751392

egchewy79

05-09-2025, 06:45 AM

Has anyone tried playing around w/ ChatGPT or AI? I'm sure you might be able to get a rendering of a roadster in different colors considering all the other things it can do.

Blitzboy54

05-09-2025, 01:04 PM

Has anyone tried playing around w/ ChatGPT or AI? I'm sure you might be able to get a rendering of a roadster in different colors considering all the other things it can do.

I'm going to try this tonight.

Jeff Kleiner

05-09-2025, 01:39 PM

...My dream car will be orange with black accents. 2 of my favorite orange shades come from Dodge:

1) Gen 3 Viper Copperhead Edition (Metallic)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213562&d=1746751392

Same as Dodge Mango Tango;) Here are a couple of them I've done.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213591&d=1746815554

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213592&d=1746815593

Notice how the two roadsters appear different even though I can assure you that they were both done using the same paint? A good example of how colors sometimes look different in photos when they are taken with different cameras.

Jeff

dbo_texas

05-09-2025, 01:45 PM

Has anyone tried playing around w/ ChatGPT or AI? I'm sure you might be able to get a rendering of a roadster in different colors considering all the other things it can do.

This is brilliant. I just tried this with Microsoft Copilot and it absolutely nailed it first try. Here's the prompt I used:
Create an image of a Factory Five Roadster with body color Honda Mountain Air Metallic BG62Mand stripe color Acura Palladium Metallic NH743M. The interior should be saddle leather brown.

Here's the output: https://copilot.microsoft.com/shares/aR5gw5NNHbQ3NL7Qrgsud

egchewy79

05-09-2025, 03:36 PM

This is brilliant. I just tried this with Microsoft Copilot and it absolutely nailed it first try. Here's the prompt I used:
Create an image of a Factory Five Roadster with body color Honda Mountain Air Metallic BG62Mand stripe color Acura Palladium Metallic NH743M. The interior should be saddle leather brown.

Here's the output: https://copilot.microsoft.com/shares/aR5gw5NNHbQ3NL7Qrgsud

wow...freaky.
Here's the AI version and and the real version213603213604

Blitzboy54

05-09-2025, 07:51 PM

So I did it, it's not quite as "artificially intelligent" as I was hoping (probably for the best, we all saw The Terminator and know how this ends) but man it was fun to play with. I tried to get it to just change the color of an existing picture but I don't think it can. It takes what it has for a Cobra and inserts it back into your pic. This is all to say it's AWESOME to play with. After goofing around with all the blues my wife was like "why don't you try the orange you said you wanted to paint it" so try it I did.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213611&d=1746837827

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213610&d=1746837827

I think it's going to take something really powerful to knock me off the orange. It just works.

But this really works too. Like a lot

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213617&d=1746840708

Grey

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213622&d=1746843164

PNWTim

05-09-2025, 08:23 PM

Jesse - I like where you are going with that color combo. Just had to pile on and do a quick rendering of what I have been thinking about:

213615

cv2065

05-09-2025, 09:23 PM

Don't deviate from the original vision. Easy to get distracted. The orange looks great! :cool:

danmas

05-09-2025, 09:28 PM

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213623&d=1746844034
Roll bars are a bit jacked up but that looks insane…
And I’m posting in his thread because he probably cost me another grand cause Danny needs a chin spoiler now.

Blitzboy54

05-10-2025, 06:41 AM

Tim- that looks amazing.

Chad- yes, I will try to stay focused.

Danny- That car needs a machine gun mount.

Jeff Kleiner

05-10-2025, 06:56 AM

Dan,
AI can do all sorts of wackiness that isn’t so easily accomplished on a real car ;)

Jeff

cv2065

05-10-2025, 08:34 AM

dbo_texas

05-10-2025, 09:31 AM

Just FYI you can upload an existing picture to copilot and tell it to change the colors. I did it yesterday and it came out pretty good. It swapped the interior color, base color and stripe color per what I specified. You can only do the upload option if you are logged into your Microsoft account (free). Here's the before/after (not my pic originally):

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213642&d=1746919375

danmas

05-10-2025, 10:22 AM

Dan,
AI can do all sorts of wackiness that isn’t so easily accomplished on a real car ;)

Jeff

I have faith in you Jeff…

Blitzboy54

05-10-2025, 09:34 PM

Eastwood Teal Ocean Metallic has entered the chat

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213645&d=1746930459

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213644&d=1746930459

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213646&d=1746930481

danmas

05-10-2025, 11:48 PM

Middle one is sick…

dbo_texas

05-12-2025, 09:21 AM

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213644&d=1746930459

Agree - middle one looks insane. Black chin spoiler, pin stripes...yup. That color combo is wild (and unique!).

Blitzboy54

05-12-2025, 12:26 PM

Agree - middle one looks insane. Black chin spoiler, pin stripes...yup. That color combo is wild (and unique!).

Thanks, I want to see it in the opposite form. Black stripes with the center orange or the pins or both.

The only issue with the black spoiler is the design isn't really separate from the car. It sort of an extension of the front. It might have to be the same color but that's something to be figured out later.

CW_MI

05-13-2025, 09:35 AM

Your original orange theme rocks, although, so does the blue / orange, and that teal....wow. Glad I'm not the one having to decide.

dbo_texas

05-13-2025, 04:02 PM

Blitzboy54

05-14-2025, 11:25 AM

hey Jesse check out the BMW BMD Snapper Rocks Metallic (https://www.facebook.com/GraysonBMW/videos/snapper-rocks-blue-metallic-loves-the-sunshine-the-bmw-m235xi-gran-coupe-is-read/1078608603714529/) (2018 BMW 4 series - 430i, 440i, etc). It's got a similar vibe as that Eastwood teal but more toward the blue side. Personally however, the teal will set you apart from all the other blues out there. Either goes great with the orange.

YES!, I love that you landed on this. I also really dig it. I went as far as to pretend I was interested in a custom built BMW so the dealer would get me a color tile of it. It is definitely in the mix. The difference between it and Atlantic blue is almost imperceptible.

Blitzboy54

05-14-2025, 11:40 AM

Backup lights

I don't know why but it has been a monster struggle for me to figure out what exactly I want to do for backup lights on this thing. I did a really small smoked LED under the frame last time. An idea I shamelessly stole from Skidd. It worked great but as a functional "see behind you at night while backing up" light they are essentially useless.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152823&d=1630208684

I am installing a backup camera and want lights that work and are more of an integrated part of the car vs dangling underneath by a bracket. What I REALLY wanted was to find an alternative to the existing tail lights that had backup lights integrated in. I came really close with a number of options but non of them fit the space. I found these little round buggers that are pretty bright. They are also kind of dark and un assuming.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213768&d=1747239350

I took a bit of risk and I mounted them directly under the tail lights. I figured it was ok because if I end up changing my mind the hole is relatively easy to fill.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213769&d=1747239350

This is how they came out. I am not completely sold. I am however more likely than not going to register this thing by the end of the summer in gel coat. I can see how it works and looks out in the wild. Plenty of time to change it before it goes off for paint.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213766&d=1747239325

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213767&d=1747239325

Jeff Kleiner

05-14-2025, 12:05 PM

I've done the Mini Cooper reverse lamp on 3 cars and kind of like it:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213770&d=1747242218

Jeff

TTimmy

05-14-2025, 02:12 PM

Hey Jesse - I'm enjoying watching the build progress!

Here’s another option. I went with a pair of nearly flat lights and surface mounted them to the fuel tank of my Mk3. Not sure if this would work on the Mk4 given the differences on the rear end. I really didn’t want to cut the body.

213773

Blitzboy54

05-14-2025, 03:16 PM

Tim,

Thank you I think the MK4 tank fits differently but I will give it a look for sure. I appreciate the kind words. It's been a fun build so far.

Jeff,

That is a more elegant solution. I am doing some background research on what I would need to do to make that work.

TrackDay17

05-14-2025, 03:26 PM

Jesse, I've got another orange color you might check out as an option, its a Toyota color called Solar Octane and man is it bright !
It was on a Tundra that rolled by on the highway.

Waterman

05-14-2025, 04:16 PM

Jesse,
I am in Rochester NY and going thru NY DMV process right now. Just got thru thru both Tech review after 3 issues and 1 issue with Field Investigation unit/VIN assignment. They did not like my high mounted reverse light as it was NOT both DOT and SAE. Has to be both. I went with True Mods 6” Reverse lights DOT FMVSS 108 SAE(2) R surface mount. Quick off Amazon and inexpensive but a bit big. Researched quite a bit. May not be my long term solution but only required 2 small grommeted holes hid by bumper. The cooper light seems like a good solution but I was not ready to cut a big hole in my recently painted body. PM me if you want to know more about who I communicated with at DMV. People have changed and DMV automated telephone menu is very frustrating to use for this low frequency process.
213777

Blitzboy54

05-14-2025, 06:30 PM

Jesse, I've got another orange color you might check out as an option, its a Toyota color called Solar Octane and man is it bright !
It was on a Tundra that rolled by on the highway.

Yes this is an awesome color. I realize I have seen it out in the wild a couple times now that you've brought it to my attention. I will go to a dealership and check it out. Thanks.

A little fun fact I was driving to work this morning and someone in my neighborhood has a Chevy Amplify Orange Corvette parked in their driveway. Stood out like a sore thumb. Gonna stop and knock on their door tomorrow.

Jesse,
I am in Rochester NY and going thru NY DMV process right now. Just got thru thru both Tech review after 3 issues and 1 issue with Field Investigation unit/VIN assignment. They did not like my high mounted reverse light as it was NOT both DOT and SAE. Has to be both. I went with True Mods 6” Reverse lights DOT FMVSS 108 SAE(2) R surface mount. Quick off Amazon and inexpensive but a bit big. Researched quite a bit. May not be my long term solution but only required 2 small grommeted holes hid by bumper. The cooper light seems like a good solution but I was not ready to cut a big hole in my recently painted body. PM me if you want to know more about who I communicated with at DMV. People have changed and DMV automated telephone menu is very frustrating to use for this low frequency process.
213777

Yeah I will reach out for sure. I knew about the SAE thing. The lights I have now meet that spec. Interesting that you had so much push back, I am also curious about the 3rd brake light. I need to dig up my old paperwork because I didn't put one on my last build and it never came up. I would like to hear about it. It sounds like your almost there? I'll say this, you knocked it out of the park with your paint scheme. I LOVE the colors. Where did you get it done?

cv2065

05-14-2025, 07:04 PM

I've done the Mini Cooper reverse lamp on 3 cars and kind of like it:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213770&d=1747242218

Jeff

That looks great!

Nigel Allen

05-14-2025, 08:07 PM

G'day Jesse,

It is law for a reversing light here in Oz. It also has to be marked as DOT compliant. I don't particularly like the look of the light, so i made a mounting bracket and installed it under the rear body skirt per photo.

213780

I made the bracket to be easily removable, but have left it there for now. It is a winter project to modify the assembly to make the light swing up and behind the rear skirt when not activated. I will use a small linear actuator to swing the light out of view when reverse gear is not selected. There is plenty of room behind the rear skirt to make this happen. I will need to run a HAAT or ignition positive wire to provide power for the linear actuator, along with a double pole changeover relay to provide forward / reverse power to the actuator.

Cheers,

Nige

PMD24

05-14-2025, 08:15 PM

Blitzboy54

05-14-2025, 08:32 PM

Hey Jesse, great build and documentation. Really enjoy following along.

I'm in NY and will have to deal with the backup light thing as well. Will NY allow one light, or do we have to have two?

Thanks,

Pat

One is fine. I had two on my last one but I know a number of NY builders that did the mini cooper thing and it wasn't a problem. I may pivot to that solution. It's a cleaner look.

Waterman

05-14-2025, 09:17 PM

The one vs two lights comes down to SAE marking if you want to stay true to rating. SAE R is one, SAE (2) R requires 2.
I had my cobra painted by a pro friend of a friend and I helped a ton as he could only work on it weekends. Went that way as quotes were VERY high locally or very long wait for others. Came out very good but not show quality as it was painted in a garage without paint booth. The black strips were not planned but covered up an error. Actually looks better with the black and grey vs just the planned rim grey.

danmas

05-14-2025, 11:29 PM

That looks great!

Damn it. Every time I read this thread it costs me bank. That looks sweet…

Jeff Kleiner

05-15-2025, 07:18 AM

Jeff,

That is a more elegant solution. I am doing some background research on what I would need to do to make that work.

It's easy. The lamp itself is about $110 (new) and an OEM pigtail with the lamp plug was 15 bucks or so. To mount them I cut the tabs off of the light and then bonded some angle brackets to the body to secure it. TIP: if you're doing stripes it's best to hold off on cutting the hole and mounting it until the stripes have been laid out on the "visual centerline" because once again trying to measure for center may get you in trouble ;)

Funny thing about that backup light requirement... I've done two cars for New York owners; one has the Mini Cooper lamp and the other has none. Both cars have been inspected and registered!

Jeff

Blitzboy54

05-15-2025, 09:49 AM

It's easy. The lamp itself is about $110 (new) and an OEM pigtail with the lamp plug was 15 bucks or so. To mount them I cut the tabs off of the light and then bonded some angle brackets to the body to secure it. TIP: if you're doing stripes it's best to hold off on cutting the hole and mounting it until the stripes have been laid out on the "visual centerline" because once again trying to measure for center may get you in trouble ;)

Funny thing about that backup light requirement... I've done two cars for New York owners; one has the Mini Cooper lamp and the other has none. Both cars have been inspected and registered!

Jeff

NY sort of uses the honor system for a lot of this stuff. It's pretty easy to navigate once you realize that.

OK, so I will stick with what I have through the gel coat phase and convert at body and paint. I ordered the light. I will update the thread when it arrives. I may have stumbled on a way to get one of these for a discount. Stay tuned.

Mike.Bray

05-15-2025, 09:56 AM

Can't you just explain that Cobras are made for going forward at high rates of speed and not for going in reverse? :)

Blitzboy54

05-15-2025, 10:16 AM

Can't you just explain that Cobras are made for going forward at high rates of speed and not for going in reverse? :)

It's science

Rian_Colorado

05-15-2025, 10:26 AM

I've done the Mini Cooper reverse lamp on 3 cars and kind of like it:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213770&d=1747242218

Jeff

Jeff - is that a 3rd brake light integrated into the license plate light??? If so.... where did you get it? part number?

I've been working on finding an option to integrate a reverse light into a license plate frame too.

Jeff Kleiner

05-15-2025, 12:44 PM

Jeff - is that a 3rd brake light integrated into the license plate light??? If so.... where did you get it? part number?

I've been working on finding an option to integrate a reverse light into a license plate frame too.

Yes, it's a 3rd brake light. No part number; it's a custom piece made from a chunk of billet aluminum.

Jeff

Blitzboy54

05-22-2025, 06:40 PM

Floor mats, passenger side

Last build I purchased FFR floor mats. I had mixed feelings. They look nice but slide around a lot. They are also a single piece and I wanted a 2 piece arrangement this time. So I bought a set from Coverking. They make mats for all the FFR models. As it turns out however they are also a one piece mat. I misunderstood what I was purchasing, sooo now what? These are a LOT thicker than the FFR floormats and have aggressive texture on the backside so I figured I would give them a go. First I bent them into shape. Took quite a bit of effort since they are so thick but they mostly hold their shape

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214184&d=1747955077

I figured if I secured the lower part with a clip that might solve any sliding issues. Incidentally this would have also solved it with the FFR mats but I didn't think of it until I got these. The clip is designed to anchor to the floor. The other half mounts through a hole you cut in the mat. I drilled a hole in the floor and screwed in the base.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214181&d=1747955000

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214180&d=1747955000

I don't really like how it came out. I had to drill a pretty large hole and while it anchors it's not by a ton. So I put some epoxy to make sure it holds. This seems like a permanent solution but decided to do something else on the drivers side.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214182&d=1747955077

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214179&d=1747955000

Blitzboy54

05-22-2025, 06:52 PM

Drivers side

After giving it some thought I decided to modify the setup for the drivers side. I cut the screw bottom off from the base and drilled a 1/8 hole in the middle. I then inserted a long rivet like so.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214183&d=1747955077

Now I only need a 1/8 hole to mount it. This is obviously a genius innovation...... except. The first time I riveted it down it secured it a lot tighter to the floor than the passenger side so it sat to low to anchor the mat to it. I drilled it out and put a washer underneath. This brought everything into alignment BUT the rivet mashed the head of the anchor out of shape and it would not clip into the mat. So the actual solution was to us a small screw with a nut as to not make it too tight. This worked like a charm.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214185&d=1747955237

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214186&d=1747955237

The rest of the day I spent in the basement powder coating. Mostly because IT WILL NOT STOP RAINING!!!!!!!! I mean it's been nuts

My black of choice for almost everything is Prismatic Powder Stone Black. I pulled all the little bits of hardware for the sun visor and wind wings as well as the grommets. All the powder coated black on this car will be this color except side and hood louvers. Those will be gloss.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214188&d=1747955282

I also finally got orange back in my gun and finished the fuel system covers.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214189&d=1747958414

PNWTim

05-22-2025, 08:31 PM

You're really coming along. I think you are definitely rounding third base at this point.

Blitzboy54

05-23-2025, 06:52 PM

Quick followup on the backup light. Like Jeff said these Mini Cooper lights run about $110 give or take. UNLESS you buy it from Latvia.... apparently. I found a seller on Ebay from Latvia selling them for $61. I pulled the trigger and it arrived today. It is in fact an OEM part and it works just like it should. I linked it if your interested in 50% off. I received it in about a week and a half.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/127046575347

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214230&d=1748043651

Blitzboy54

05-26-2025, 03:39 PM

Side Pipe coating

I ended up with a second set of pipes. My old build buddy NYMike ended up using GasN and had his originals sitting around. He gave them to me for the cost of shipping. We are only a couple hours away from each other so it was well worth it for me. I purchased a set of mufflers from Classic Chambered Exhaust and welded them in. There was a thread recently about what to do with bare steel pipes and I was convinced to try paint vs ceramic coating. My thinking is no harm in trying since the pipes had some patina and would need to be sand blasted either way. So I decided to try the POR 15 High temp coating in black.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214335&d=1748289735

I cleaned up the pipes with a cheap blaster and wire wheels to prep the surface.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214330&d=1748289524

It goes on pretty smooth. I did not have any issues with runs. I did 3 thin coats all within the first hour per the instructions then let it set 24 hours. In my case I was busy so it was more like 36 hours.

It goes on shiny and leaves a little tach.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214336&d=1748289808

This is where it gets a little wonky. The instructions say to bake it out "at least 400 deg" for 15 minutes. I don't have an oven big enough for side pipes. If I did I would put my own ceramic coating on. So I hung them and fired up the engine. This worked well enough but the end of the pipes never really get hot enough to properly cure. While running the engine I broke out my heat gun and helped the tips along. It worked ok. I will see how it goes over time.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214337&d=1748291822

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214333&d=1748289592

gbranham

05-26-2025, 04:17 PM

Nice job, Jesse. Easy peasie!

cv2065

05-26-2025, 08:58 PM

Looking good and like your hanging method! I just got my headers back. You doing those too?

Blitzboy54

05-27-2025, 05:45 AM

Looking good and like your hanging method! I just got my headers back. You doing those too?

Thanks

Under no circumstances am I ever taking those headers back out unless I absolutely have to. I used an OEM metal gasket so I hope to never get a leak. The passenger side wasn’t the worst ever (still pretty bad) but the drivers side was. There just isn’t any room.

cv2065

05-27-2025, 07:16 AM

Thanks

Under no circumstances am I ever taking those headers back out unless I absolutely have to. I used an OEM metal gasket so I hope to never get a leak. The passenger side wasn’t the worst ever (still pretty bad) but the drivers side was. There just isn’t any room.

LOL...I know the feeling man. The Coyote has to have some tight working areas. Even with the 427, I've got to do the dance to get to a couple of cylinders. Using header studs instead of bolts has been amazing.

danmas

05-27-2025, 11:34 PM

I like what you did with the side pipes. Next one I do I will follow along (sense a theme here?). I was frustrated with my headers a little bit,until I put on the correct one on the driver side. Since it is the correct one it went on pretty easy but I have a 351w (stroked to 427) so a bit more room. It was tight but do-able. I can’t imagine what a coyote looks like in terms of fit…

TBull

05-28-2025, 02:58 PM

Blitzboy54

05-29-2025, 11:52 AM

Believe me I get the whole theme thing. My Milano was in my head for a long time, but it's finding the right shades of the blue and orange to go together and then you have to think of ancillary colors like dash, carpet, Engine bay etc. I've always been a huge fan of Blues and Oranges. I really like where this is heading the the work you've done on the car so far. Really coming together.

Thanks, I really appreciate that. I already have done some things I would like to do over but can't, but that's the way these things go. When I started down the orange rabbit I spent some time on your build. I like the accents in the engine bay.

TBull

06-05-2025, 10:03 AM

Thanks, I made all of the interior panels using Poster board as templates and then bent them on a brake. I then matched the grey powder coat as close as I could with my dash leather. It's your canvas, paint it as detailed as you want. I look forward to seeing the final result. There are always things I would change. Some we can't and we live with them, but most people would never notice. You're doing great.

Blitzboy54

06-08-2025, 05:56 PM

Open House

I had made some last minute plans to attend the open house. I am rounding 3rd base on my second build and I have still never been to Factory Five. It's a little silly really I am less than 3 hours away. Unfortunately work had other plans for me so getting to FFR and meeting a lot of you will have to stay on the bucket list for a little while longer

Body Prep

Spring has been crazy busy. I have had very little time to work on the body. I have finally completed all the prep and I am ready to put it on. I rollered/brushed 3 coats of bed liner, I opened the holes for the roll bars closer to the 2" I will need for my setup, and I trimmed the dash cowl 3/8".

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214823&d=1749420950

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214824&d=1749420950

I left a gap around the wheel wells for body work

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214825&d=1749420950

Next I need to pull the seats and roll bars back out. I also want to change out my seat belt trim rings. I originally purchased a set from Shell Valley. They don't really fit right. I purchased a set from Mike Everson. Those by the way have a really nice finish. Only problem is I misplaced my metric allen set somewhere in the garage and can't find them. I mean....... I'll give it one more day before I break down and buy another set.

Inching closer on color

Lastly I have further refined one of my paint schemes. If I go with a teal look I think it will be more like this. I tried to get the AI to fill the center of the black stripes but couldn't. So I did a little old fashioned MS Paint. Not ideal but you get the idea

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214826&d=1749422014

cv2065

06-08-2025, 06:02 PM

PNWTim

06-08-2025, 08:27 PM

If you want to find your allen wrenches, buy another set. The originals will show up once Amazon drops the package on your doorstep.

Blitzboy54

06-09-2025, 09:25 AM

If you want to find your allen wrenches, buy another set. The originals will show up once Amazon drops the package on your doorstep.

It's science

Blitzboy54

06-11-2025, 06:42 PM

If you want to find your allen wrenches, buy another set. The originals will show up once Amazon drops the package on your doorstep.

Turned out to be pretty reliable science!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214916&d=1749684830

PNWTim

06-11-2025, 08:38 PM

Turned out to be pretty reliable science!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214916&d=1749684830

I'm advocating for it to be added to Newton's Laws.

Blitzboy54

06-14-2025, 01:50 PM

Making the chassis ready for the body

A couple small items to check off before installing the body. First is I used seat belt bezels from Shell Valley. My advice is don't do that. They don't fit right. Just too big.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215062&d=1749925421

I had to pull the seats out anyhow so I purchased a set of bezels from Mike Everson. These are the real deal. He powder coats them in clear and they really look sharp. I was going to coat them in orange but since they were pre coated in clear I just left them. I think they look great.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215070&d=1749925663

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215063&d=1749925421

I removed the exhaust, side pipes and installed 2 inch air conditioner foam (per Jeff K.) to keep heat from leaking into the cockpit. I glued it in with Super 77.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215064&d=1749925477

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215065&d=1749925477

Lastly taped up the dash and waited for the cavalry to arrive

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215066&d=1749925530

Blitzboy54

06-14-2025, 02:04 PM

I have half the garage back!

Scott and company stopped by and I would say like 10 minutes later the body was on. It was almost anti climactic. I say almost because it looks so GOOD. The spoiler and the wheels came out like I hoped. I will do some more fitting and start rough assembling the rest now. The only possible change is there is a possability I may put spacers in the rear wheels and push them out a little wider. We will see. I am going to mock up a wheel with some washers to see how it looks first.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215069&d=1749925663

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215068&d=1749925631

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215067&d=1749925530

I put the quick jacks in the front (used 1/4 tubes again per Jeff) to better fill in the grommets and a couple bolts in the back to support the body and get a sense of it. I can now rough in the ride height. I think the whole thing looks great.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215071&d=1749927582

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215072&d=1749927582

Again big thanks to Scott and the local FFR community. An undefeated resource.

gbranham

06-14-2025, 02:20 PM

Congrats, Jesse! Looks awesome! I think I also used the word "anticlimactic" when we dropped the body on. It sure transforms the project, though, doesn't it?

cv2065

06-14-2025, 06:10 PM

Yes!! Looks awesome!!

danmas

06-14-2025, 06:42 PM

Very very nice. Mike Everson gets some more of my money now…

Namrups

06-15-2025, 08:46 AM

Glad to help Jesse! You were there for me whenever I need an extra hand. More than happy to return the favor. The car is looking great.

Blitzboy54

06-16-2025, 08:30 PM

Lights, Wheels and Roll Bars

Now that the body is on it really starting to feel like a car. I like this part a lot. Body needs a lot of work, even for just rough fitting the doors, hood and trunk but we are on our way.

I started by fitting the head lights and directionals. I thought I was being super clever by using weather pack connections for all the lights. The only issue is I apparently didn't use a high quality enough fitting and some of the pins randomly push themselves out when making connections. I may have to change them. For now though they are in and look really good

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215200&d=1750120917

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215199&d=1750120917

One of the elements I am experimenting with is the wheels. I wanted aggressive offsets to push the wheels out of the wells a little. The fronts are a 18x9.5 +10 and the rear are 18x11 +8. You can see it pushes the well. I know this isn't for everyone but it very specifically what I want. It's not a permanent mod, if I really hated it I could simply change the rims. The good news is I love it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215202&d=1750120963

The rears are not that far off from the 18" rears from FFR. I added a 6mm spacer. I am going to stop here for now but I am open to pushing them out further. I would need a hub adapter if I go wider. The recommendation with a spacer is at least 8 turns of the lug nuts. I get 12 so we are good but I wouldn't go any wider without a hub centric spacer.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215201&d=1750120963

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215206&d=1750121162

Last is the roll bars. Like Darryl said I thing they really work with the Intatrim seats. The seats just clear the edge of the body. I have some adjustment in them but I think I will leave them as is until the body is fully set at paint and make one last tweak at that point if they even need it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215205&d=1750121162

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215204&d=1750121162

cv2065

06-16-2025, 09:06 PM

You’re almost there! Lights and rollbars look great. Based on your thread, I reached out to Chris to get that turn signal 3D printed mount. Not sure if I’ll use it yet but the option looks great.

gbranham

06-18-2025, 08:16 AM

Blitzboy54

06-18-2025, 10:11 AM

Looking good, Jesse! Are you at all concerned about the front tires beating up the body with rocks being thrown, since they poke out past the fenders?

And I've got a ton of leftover weatherpack connectors if you need some. I have singles, doubles, triples, quads, and I think one or two 5-holers. Happy to throw them in the mail. Let me know.

Greg

This is a fair question. The answer is I don't know or that is to say I wasn't worried until you asked, lol. The wheels on my last build pushed out just not as far. Also real common for the hot rod pickups to run fat tires with no fenders. I guess we will all learn together. I have also committed to putting 1" spacers on the back. I ordered a pair of hub centric wheel spacers from US Wheel Adaptors for the rear. I going to push them a full inch. It will be a full commitment as I will have to cut down the wheel hub studs to make it all fit. Just like the coupe guys.

As for the weather pack connectors I may be in touch. That's very nice of you.

Jeff Kleiner

06-18-2025, 11:31 AM

PERSONAL OPINION ALERT
Don’t care for the tire beyond the body look and it will force you into a high ride height to avoid tire to body contact.

Carry on :)

Jeff

Blitzboy54

06-18-2025, 12:52 PM

PERSONAL OPINION ALERT
Don’t care for the tire beyond the body look and it will force you into a high ride height to avoid tire to body contact.

Carry on :)

Jeff

Yes sir, I’m aware. I appreciate the disclaimer :)

People are either going to love or hate this car. Just like it’s builder

Blitzboy54

06-18-2025, 07:34 PM

Mod the mod

Probably the most common modification to these cars was originally done by Jeff. It's so popular it's literally named after him. I honestly have no idea how anyone would put their rear quick jacks on without the Kleiner mod. It's so smart compared to the FFR instructions I can't believe it hasn't been formally adopted.

I purchased a 7/16 threaded rod from McMaster Carr. I cut the uppers and lowers to the appropriate lengths.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215258&d=1750291651

I didn't have any non locking nuts on hand. What I did have was a 16 extra couplers since it was cheaper to buy 20 online than 4 from the hardware store. I cut 2 of them in half ever so slightly modifying Jeff's original mod. Gives you a little more nut to put a wrench on as a bonus.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215259&d=1750291651

On the other side I have my powder coated quick jacks. I also powder coated the washers and short sleeves. Behind the washers I used a rubber washer to pinch on the body. I figured it would look a little cleaner, hold better and protect the paint.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215260&d=1750291651

I finished it off with powder coated acorn nuts I purchased on Amazon.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215262&d=1750291706

I wired in the rear lights and mounted my backup lights. I guess I should say my gel coat backup lights. Going a different rout post paint. I messed up the powder coat on the quick jacks so I am going to have them re done. It's funny because I have done some difficult pieces, you would think big hunks of steel would be a piece of cake but such is life.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215261&d=1750291706

Next is wire up the backup lights and camera.

chmhasy

06-20-2025, 01:29 PM

Are you going to have Ron at Metal-Morphous paint this one too or you painting yourself

Blitzboy54

06-20-2025, 06:00 PM

Are you going to have Ron at Metal-Morphous paint this one too or you painting yourself

Neither

I contacted Jeff 10 minutes after ordering my kit. I don't need a plan B but if I did I was going to go with Spotlight Customs in GA. I am taking it to Jeff because he's the best. If that didn't work out I would go with Spotlight because if I am going to take the time to trailer it somewhere I mind as well also take it somewhere I can take a vacation at the same time.

I can't see a scenario where I tackled it myself. MAYBE if I had a MKV body. I just don't have the experience or skill set.

I go back to my early drywall work. It was terrible, I got better over time and now it's pretty good. I don't want my car to look like my first try.

Grubester

06-20-2025, 08:35 PM

An idea: I've already experimented (slightly) with, is this: I noticed your roll bars are still bare steel... so are mine, as FFR had chrome problems and delays last year.
What I experimented with is polishing the bare steel to a nice finish, including successive Scotch Brite pads on your angle grinder (or some sort of grinder), but then -- after clean-up -- coating them with Sharkhide.
I've always liked the look of bare steel but it's too vulnerable, but sealing them with Sharkhide I thought might be a good look. I was trying to get away from the garish chrome look (most don't consider it garish, I'm sure), but I didn't want to have a painted look either. Well, I've only tried a small section, but I'll do the whole thing when I'm closer to needing them...

Blitzboy54

06-21-2025, 02:49 PM

Blitzboy54

06-21-2025, 03:03 PM

Rear wheel spacers

OK so I finally fully committed to the ride stance. The offsets in the front already push the wheels a little wide but the rear I want even or a little past the fender. So I ordered a 1 inch spacer from US Wheel Adapters.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215345&d=1750534845

Test fit and marked the studs for how far I have to trim them.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215327&d=1750531893

I trimmed them with my pneumatic die grinder and torqued to 100 lb-ft. I also test fit the elephant ears so I can drill and powder coat them.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215344&d=1750534845

This completed the look for me. This is exactly what I saw in my head when I planned it. It also is starting to influence what I am going to paint it. It's hard to explain but the more aggressive look speaks to me as a louder color.

This is before with the 6mm spacer

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215328&d=1750531989

This is the 1 inch wheel hub adapter

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215356&d=1750542021

I did an initial test fit of the windshield

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215330&d=1750531989

Here you can see kind of where this is headed. I have the hood vents flipped upside down just so they sit flush but I plant to put these in as well. I am also considering a CF hood scoop to match the dash.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215332&d=1750532202

Blitzboy54

06-21-2025, 03:37 PM

Loose odds and ends

One thing that I 100% would do over if I could is my transmission tunnel cover. I didn't mess it up per se but there are elements of it I would like a do over. Top of list was the bend from the back of the tunnel toward the back of the cockpit. There was a giant wrinkle in there that I thought

1. I could live with
2. would get better over time
3. didn't look that stupid

I was wrong on all fronts. So I bit the bullet and pulled the seats and partially pealed the carpet back. It was nerve wracking but I got it done. It's still not perfect but now much improved. I can live with it now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215331&d=1750532202

I noticed on all my pictures from the trunk the silver of the heat mat really sticks out. You don't really see that high in the trunk but it still bothered me so I cut a piece of left over carpet and covered it. Just he back and slightly around the sides. I am not even sure if it's symmetrical but you can't see it unless the body is off so who cares.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215351&d=1750537457

Lastly I cleaned up the wiring in the back. I didn't loom the backup light wiring because that's all coming out. I will have a proper connector wired in for the mini backup light when it's time. I also made a bracket for the backup camera. I counter sunk the screw holes and this will be the permanent arrangement.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215326&d=1750531893

TrackDay17

06-21-2025, 07:22 PM

gbranham

06-21-2025, 07:22 PM

Not poo pooing your offset...to each their own. But as I've mentioned earlier, I don't envy you the damage your tires will cause to your fenders and quarter panels with that offset.

Blitzboy54

06-21-2025, 08:13 PM

Not poo pooing your offset...to each their own. But as I've mentioned earlier, I don't envy you the damage your tires will cause to your fenders and quarter panels with that offset.

Maybe… I think the tires on these protrude more than they get credit for naturally. Particularly in the front

If you look at the Backdrafts RT4’s they pooch out pretty good. At the end of the day I never do anything “risky” without a backout plan. In this case if it ends up not working in simply replace the wheels. Easy Peasy.

For now I’m really pleased with it.

topherchrisb

06-24-2025, 04:20 PM

I think the tires look great sticking out of the fender on the 1" spacer. I was trying to figure out how to get a similar look as that just using tires that have more bulge in the sidewall. The available sizes in the tread I want and the dynamic nature of how each tire fits to each wheel a little differently made me just happy I got something that was functional on my first attempt. I could probably be happy with a 1/2" spacer and have a middle ground of keeping the tires under the top portions of the fender but still have a more aggressive look than I've got now.

Eager to see your project come to fruition.

Blitzboy54

06-28-2025, 11:46 AM

The Good, the Bad and the Stupid

I have bee working on the back end pretty much non stop. I am trying to stay organized by working along the length of the car so I don't skip anything. I lost about a week to the heat. It was near maximum humidity and just under 100 degrees. I tried to get a few things done and it was overwhelming.

Fist things first, my trunk was bad. it just didn't fit right at all. I started another thread and Dr. Kleiner and I talked and he set me straight. So first thing was to remove the rear bulb seal. It was just too tight. I pulled off the quick jacks and pulled it out. This fixed the "under bite" problem. I was going to lift the body and trim the aluminum but it looks like we will address it at paint instead. So no bulb seal for now. One thing Jeff mentioned was to make sure to align the handle to the license plate bump and not dead center if I am going with stripes. FFR pre drilled some pilot holes so I did a little check and to my suprise they were perfectly aligned. I am not totally sure if FFR fixed the bracket or moved the holes but we were good to go for installation.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215611&d=1751127218

Trying to decide if I need to reach out to FFR. This is the bulb seal they sent. I did not trim it. I would prefer it cover the entire opening and then I would notch out for the latch.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215617&d=1751127349

I made a few minor adjustments to the lid to optimize the fit but generally leaving it to the pro's for all the final fitment.

I installed a grommet for the wire loom to sit in but I started drilling too close to the latch not realizing there was a metal plate under there (stupid #1). So I moved it up. Zip ties are your friend here for fishing the wires through. I installed the license plate bracket and used spade connectors to make the electrical connections

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215612&d=1751127218

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215616&d=1751127315

I moved on the to the cover plate. Decided to use rivnuts because they look nice. Now this is not complicated. I drilled my panel where I wanted the holes. Pressed it up to the opening and marked them. I then drilled and installed the rivnuts. Super easy EXCEPT I somehow screwed that up. Stupid thing #2. I am really annoyed with myself. So the plan here is to flatten the piece back out, use it as a template and make another one. So dumb

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215615&d=1751127315

So all in all everything looks right. I need to re do the cover but that isn't the end of the world. After I fix that, next is to move forward and work on the doors.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215614&d=1751127315

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215613&d=1751127218

I am undecided if I am going to leave the screws silver or PC them black. Probably the latter. If anyone is curious why I left the plate mount chrome is because once you have a plate you can't see it. In order to PC it I would have to completely take the lamp apart in a way it's not designed to come apart. So just like the last build colored the cover and nut but left the body alone.

I also now realize I centered the backup camera to the body (stupid #3). I will have to move that to line up with the trunk latch. Oy

TrackDay17

06-28-2025, 06:04 PM

F500guy

06-28-2025, 06:21 PM

Been there, oversize each hole and it will work!!!:p

Grubester

06-28-2025, 06:49 PM

Completed the Kleiner mod yesterday on my Mk4. I had already installed the drop trunk so could not run a bolt through from the inside into the coupling nuts. I bought 7/16-14 S.S. all-thread and flange nuts and some grade 5 (or 8) coupling nuts. This worked really well and I used the red Locktite. Also noticed very slight slop with the frame's hole size for the 7/16" all-thread, so when I assembled it all, I added JBWeld to the region of the all-thread that is in contact with the 3/16" frame, just to take up the small amount of slack. Further, before I started assembly, I leveled the rear of the car right-to-left and when I tightened the coupling nuts I made sure they were vertical (spirit level) so that the later installation of the quick-jacks or bumper over-rides would be vertical.
215626

Blitzboy54

06-29-2025, 02:54 PM

I fixed the trunk cover. Was easy enough I feel a little silly buying one pre made. I'll do my own "next time".

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215643&d=1751157964

I have a bunch of items now in need of powder coating. My plan is the finish the assembly of the car, take pics for the DMV, then break everything down and get it coated. Now with the trunk done I moved forward to the passenger door. The good news is it needed almost no trimming to get a rough fit. I took no more than 1/8" from a few strategic spots and it looks pretty good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215644&d=1751157964

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215645&d=1751157964

This is where I have had to do some learning. By learning I mean I made a mistake. So I hung the CF dash the same way I did the aluminum one. I left a small gap at the corners. I also notched the edges to better fit the end where it contacts the frame. I saw another build do this and ran with it. Well either my body sits a bit higher or I set the dash a little too low because with the door in place the hinge contacts the dash.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215646&d=1751157964

I am waaaaaaaaaaay past the point of making changes to the dash location so I decided to trim the dash in the corner to clear. It's tucked away and not really noticeable but I think what I learned here is the CF is designed to be mounted higher on the hoop than the aluminum?

This just a rough cut. I need to take some fine sand paper and smooth it out a bit but it works.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215674&d=1751225426

Blitzboy54

06-29-2025, 03:15 PM

Windshield and door latch

I drilled and tapped the windshield frame. This was mostly uneventful as the brass is pretty soft. Whoever first thought to tap the hole is an actual genius. I can't imagine doing this job any other way. One of Paul's builds was the first time I saw it done. It went in easy enough, getting the bolts tight is a different story. Paid the Iron Price.. lol

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215677&d=1751227405

All completely worth it as the windshield looks great. One of the things I hated about my last build was I had a tiny air gap on the passenger side. Not this time.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215670&d=1751225229

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215671&d=1751225332

This is my first look at the new latch. The old carriage latches had plenty of well documented issues. A few I had that had that I have not seen mentioned is how flimsy the latch handle was. My passenger door got a little jammed up when the body shifted and the the handle buckled when my wife tried to exit the car. I really didn't like it.

This requires a lot more assembly but the instructions I think are quite good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215673&d=1751225332

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215672&d=1751225332

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215675&d=1751225426

Here is a list of the things I don't like about the new latch:

*crickets*

Color me a fan. This latch is a step function improvement over the old one. Just works

https://youtu.be/WQFg2GG7OXY?si=0ZFYQU9qTI-vgzTS

cv2065

06-29-2025, 03:17 PM

This is where I have had to do some learning. By learning I mean I made a mistake. So I hung the CF dash the same way I did the aluminum one. I left a small gap at the corners. I also notched the edges to better fit the end where it contacts the frame. I saw another build do this and ran with it. Well either my body sits a bit higher or I set the dash a little too low because with the door in place the hinge contacts the dash.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215646&d=1751157964

I am waaaaaaaaaaay past the point of making changes to the dash location so I decided to trim the dash in the corner to clear. It's tucked away and not really noticeable but I think what I learned here is the CF is designed to be mounted higher on the hoop than the aluminum?

This just a rough cut. I need to take some fine sand paper and smooth it out a bit but it works.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215674&d=1751225426

Looks good to me. I put the body on before I fit the dash and pushed it all the way up and then marked my points for the screws. As you pointed out, it seemed to go higher than my last one, but I chalked it up to the "all cars are different" bucket.

Blitzboy54

06-29-2025, 05:23 PM

Blitzboy, how difficult is it to take apart the hood and trunk latches to paint ?
I'm planning on blacking out my trim also as I'm not a big fan of chrome.
I remember reading the fuel cap take some work to do.

Not hard at all. If you want to pursue that DM me. Happy to have a phone call and walk you through it. The only thing I failed at powder coating was the FFR side mirror. No way to separate the glass and it failed during the bake. I use the Breeze side mirror anyhow so not a biggie but everything else was not an issue

Blitzboy54

06-29-2025, 05:28 PM

Looks good to me. I put the body on before I fit the dash and pushed it all the way up and then marked my points for the screws. As you pointed out, it seemed to go higher than my last one, but I chalked it up to the "all cars are different" bucket.

This is the way. I should have paid closer attention to your build.

F500guy

06-29-2025, 06:13 PM

"Here is a list of the things I don't like about the new latch:"

I have an issue with the latch getting stuck in the channel that runs perpendicular to the slot. Seems most of my passengers push the handle outward, which pushes it into the channel when trying to open the door. At some point I was going to consult with things folks have done to solve that.

Jeff Kleiner

06-29-2025, 08:07 PM

Here is a list of the things I don't like about the new latch:

Here's my list: The handle goes the wrong way. After decades of moving the handle forward to unlatch the doors muscle memory is still struggling with getting used to going the other way. And now I have a Mk5 with latches that are totally different yet again :rolleyes:

Maybe it's just another reminder of what my wife so often says to me--- "You're living in the past" (To which I reply "But I like it here" :p).

Jeff

Blitzboy54

07-03-2025, 06:07 PM

On to the drivers side

Stop me if you've heard this one before.

A guy walks into the bar with a duck under his arm. He says to the bartender "the driver door doesn't fit that well"

I installed the door and latch. I had to remove a little more material as FFR left this one more "oversized" than the passenger. I got it sort of ugly close and then put a single metal screw on the underside of the body to hold it into position. This is as close as I will get until it gets shaped at body and paint.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215859&d=1751582822

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215861&d=1751582822

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215860&d=1751582822

danmas

07-03-2025, 06:29 PM

Looks awesome. I just noticed the side pipes were off. Do you need to take them off to fit the body?

Blitzboy54

07-03-2025, 06:48 PM

Looks awesome. I just noticed the side pipes were off. Do you need to take them off to fit the body?

Definitely. The cutouts are not big enough as is. Even when they are the correct size I’m pretty sure the pipes have to come off.

Also while you’re doing things like doors, windshield and wipers it’s a lot easier to move around the car with the exhaust out of the way.

cv2065

07-04-2025, 12:17 AM

Also while you’re doing things like doors, windshield and wipers it’s a lot easier to move around the car with the exhaust out of the way.

Wipers? Who’s got wipers?:D

Jeff Kleiner

07-04-2025, 06:35 AM

Looks awesome. I just noticed the side pipes were off. Do you need to take them off to fit the body?

Yes. Pipes must be off to R&R the body.

Jeff

Blitzboy54

07-04-2025, 09:11 AM

Wipers? Who’s got wipers?:D

That’s crazy coming from a Florida guy. You get mini monsoons out of nowhere . Sunny, 10 minutes later it’s rained like an inch.

cv2065

07-04-2025, 09:57 AM

That’s crazy coming from a Florida guy. You get mini monsoons out of nowhere . Sunny, 10 minutes later it’s rained like an inch.

That's true. You have to have a magic ball when driving in this place. However, I think I may have used my wipers once on the last car. The reality is that the showers are so short, Rain X suffices in most cases. If it's too heavy, then wipers wouldn't really help much over the Rain X anyway as the windshield fogs up. Here's to the meteorological crystal ball!

Blitzboy54

07-05-2025, 05:15 PM

Wipers

I used the FFR wiper kit on my last build and did again for this one. I know there are better reviewed options but the way my firewall laid out the FFR motor was a better fit. Just like the heater I found them to be entirely useful on more than one occasion out in the wild on my first build. They are loud but that really doesn't matter in an open air car with side pipes. My only real complaint was the Lukas style blades don't work that well. They are streaky (at least mine were).

As a result I wanted 2 things. Something a little different looking and ideally I would like to use a modern blade. Something I can buy over the counter and replace. I found these from Specialty Power Windows. They are meant for a flat windshield as the blades don't flex but I like the meatyness of the arms and I thought they might look cool powder coated black. They bend at a different angle than the Lukas arms but the connection point and the end are in the same location. They are the same length.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Specialty-Power-Windows-WAB-01BR-Billet-Aluminum-Wiper-Arm-RH-Bend,7718.html?srsltid=AfmBOop7d0iDbKHGGvpKQ8NMEME sYoorVbGJEi7XcL_2B3suPgT5JWRv

I used generic 10" J hook blades and found these adapters that were easy to modify.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZKL8LHP?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Still working out the kinks but I simply removed the aluminum blade, modified the J hook and used the existing screw to hold it into place. After powder coat I will use a little JB weld to permanently hold that hook into place. With a single screw holding it it will eventually rotate but with a little epoxy it will never move again.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215894&d=1751751287

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215895&d=1751751313

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215896&d=1751751344

Mounted up side by side with the Lukas

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215890&d=1751751029

To give me a VERY rough idea of what the arm would look like black I put some electrical tape on it. lol

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215893&d=1751751096

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215891&d=1751751029

So yes, they look different but there isn't any point to going further if they don't work. My initial test seems to indicate they do, actually pretty well. No streaking that I can see.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215892&d=1751751029

https://youtu.be/e0ZDra53t3I?si=KUHWl1705mf4GWeF

So far so good. I like them enough to keep going. I can always install the Lukas arm/blades but I like where this is headed.

cv2065

07-05-2025, 05:52 PM

Looks good to me Jessie. I like your version better than the stock. The arms look robust. Nice work!

gbranham

07-05-2025, 09:10 PM

Not nearly as nice as mine, and I have a rain sensor (me), and intermittent (me). Lol

Greg

215922215923

danmas

07-05-2025, 09:16 PM

Not nearly as nice as mine, and I have a rain sensor (me), and intermittent (me). Lol

Greg

215922215923
How do you adjust the intervals on those?

gbranham

07-05-2025, 09:31 PM

How do you adjust the intervals on those?

You rotate the handle faster, or slower. Hah!

Blitzboy54

07-06-2025, 08:16 PM

Side pipes and louvers

I test fit the louvers with the body on. I had to trim two of the posts on the drivers side so I could clear the footbox. I also opened up the exhaust ports. This is where it gets a little jenky. My drivers pipe is more forward than the passenger. Instead of trying to figure it all out I opted to make the openings as small as I could get away with until we get to body and paint. Once mock up is complete I will take the photos necessary to start the DMV process and submit the application. I will break down all the bare and shiny parts at that time and complete the powder coating.

For now though I think she is starting to look mean. I was able to get a couple laps around the neighborhood. The engine runs beautifully. I hear a lot of squeaking and bumping from the body. I assume it will settle as I drive it more. Definitely body on bulb seal.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215932&d=1751829586

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215929&d=1751829551

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215930&d=1751829551

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215931&d=1751829586

I moved up to the radiator. i tried to test fit the shroud and and found it to be tight. I need to trim a 1/4" but it started to scar up the fins. This got me thinking a shield wouldn't be the worst idea. I found some plastic coated steal mesh and cut with metal sheers. Wrapped it in some rubber edge trim and used the existing radiator mount screws to secure it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215933&d=1751829656

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215934&d=1751829656

gbranham

07-06-2025, 08:31 PM

Yeah, Everson's shroud beat up my radiator fins, too, so I gave up for now. Thinking Kleiner could install it for me when he removes the body for paint.

danmas

07-06-2025, 10:32 PM

Blitzboy54

07-08-2025, 05:44 PM

Radiator Shroud

Moving on to the nose aluminum. I used the FFR panels on the last build. I probably got a little lucky with fitment because it all lined up first try. This time not so much. Also hard to manipulate the radiator after the hoses are routed and secured. So I move to to Mr. Everson's masterpiece. I made the initial mistake of trying to direct fit it into the nose as as bare aluminum. Don't do this, it is likely a little big and it mushes up the fins. I did however learn how to best do this with the body on so I will share what I did.

I installed the rear bulb seal. I then trimmed a 1/4" off the front. I already knew it was too tight so I was good to trim it down. Honestly you can also just measure from the base of the radiator to the inner fold of the nose and figure out how close you are. I folded it gently over itself and put it back in.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216078&d=1752010545

You can see it was still too tight. I did scrap up some of the bed liner and will need to re apply. Ultimately I took 3/4" off the front and re test fit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216077&d=1752010545

It looked right so I took another 1/4" to account for the front bulb seal.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216079&d=1752010545

I put her back in. I set and drilled the upper aluminum piece from Breeze. This piece comes a pre drilled aluminum panel but I prefer to put bulb seal on the end. No chance it vibrates against the body and makes and noise.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216080&d=1752010604

All in all it makes and real nice looking tunnel. I will leave it without rivets until after body and paint. I will however powder coat it black when I do the rest of the remaining pieces. I used tin snips to trim it and this worked well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216081&d=1752010604

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216083&d=1752010636

It was hot and sweaty in the garage and I installed and removed this 7 or 8 times. I gave up on keeping the aluminum shiny and clean. I think if I was to keep it bare aluminum I would consider wearing latex gloves. I personally don't care because it will be coated but it does require a lot of manipulation to get it in there just right.

TrackDay17

07-10-2025, 04:57 PM

Looking good Jesse ! It's a hot one here in KC today too.

Blitzboy54

07-13-2025, 04:33 PM

One step forward......

Moving down my punch list I moved on to the hood. Simple enough. I attached the hardware using the pre drilled mounting locations.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216288&d=1752424061

I adjusted the hinges as far to the left as they would go and this is how the hood fit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216287&d=1752423641

I obviously have a problem. I opened up a help thread in the general forum and found out that I did not have the front of the body centered. I used the quick jack holes as my reference and that is not correct. As what seems obvious to me now you need to measure from shock mount to the edge of the wheel well. My last body just naturally fit out of the gate so I just didn't learn anything last time.

I got to work by removing the quick jacks, the screws under the body and the windshield. I also loosened up the wiper bracket. I was then able to re center the body. The drivers side out rigger was now poking out into the brake duct. I used a 2x4 and was able to re position it toward the passenger side. I tweeked the other out rigger as well but that one wasn't as far off.

Once I got the body re positioned I checked the hood..... much better.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216310&d=1752439857

I then re attached the windshield, quick jacks and wiper brackets. I loosened the hood hinges, set the hood and jacked up the car.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216309&d=1752439857

Tightened down the hinge, lowered the car and re checked, all is good. The only real casualty to all this besides my ego is I had to re adjust the drivers side door and I will have to remove the passenger door and trim a little off the front edge as the door doesn't quite fit right anymore

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216312&d=1752439903

I have a little bit of a wow in hood. The installation manual says to put something heavy on it so that's what I will do. We will see if that helps. The latch will hold it down as well. Nothing quite like a self inflicted wound on a 90 degree day in the garage to close out the weekend

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216313&d=1752439903

All is well that ends well

cv2065

07-13-2025, 05:14 PM

Glad you got that worked out. My last build the hood just fit into place as well. And the heat has been simply unbearable at times. I probably say that every summer.:D

Jeff Kleiner

07-14-2025, 07:48 AM

There ya' go Jesse! Aren't you glad that you didn't try to relocate those hood brackets :)

You can put that weight away---it ain't going to help. Set the latches 14" from center rather than what the manual says and in the end that will help to pull the hood corners to body flush.

Jeff

Blitzboy54

07-14-2025, 08:49 AM

Blitzboy54

07-19-2025, 02:09 PM

Headlight fix

I was taking some measurements in the engine bay for some reason or another and failed to notice my knee was pushing into the passenger headlight. What ended up happening is the upper adjustment screw caved in. It is plastic with fine threads that are cut in by the screw itself. Once you push it in it doesn't really work anymore.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216531&d=1752952354

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216532&d=1752952354

A local builder saw my post and reached out. He had a spare and shipped it up from down state for me. Craig, thank you again. I really appreciate it. I swapped it out and I am back in business.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216524&d=1752950382

With that out of the way I can re focus on my hood. I am flirting pretty hard with going with something like this. I am well past traditional at this point. These are quick release hood pin style latches from a company called Quik-Latch

https://www.quik-latch.com/?srsltid=AfmBOoq4tJ81cs6Qvr8JuZtM12e_LUztBlg8QCfqk 8OjeQXzrc6CjGN7

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216530&d=1752950528

I think it might be a cool look for what I am going for. They come in 3 sizes and different finishes. The biggest challenge will be to mount the pins in a way where they both line up and are rigid enough to hold the hood down. Here is a video showing their operation with some pretty dramatic music. lol

https://youtu.be/vvy-HeTlL1o?si=XwnWv_BbgWe45zj8

I think for now I am going to mount the FFR latches while I work out if this solution works for me. The good news is if I install them I only have to make the holes bigger. They would be located in the same place.