Jesse builds another Cobra #11,061 - First body work shots

[Blitzboy54]

So it begins....


Hey Gang!

It's been a whirlwind few months. Just to bring everyone up to speed I recently sold my MK4. It was an awesome car that I loved to drive and I already miss dearly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=171292&d=1660933118

As it turns out the thing I loved slightly more than owning it was building it. I didn't have the resources to keep this one and build another so a choice was made. Like all of you know (or are going to find out) is while building one of these you learn so many things. I have a running list in my head of items that if I was to do it again what I would do differently. So here we go.

I sold my first MK4 in early June and ordered my next one immediately. My guiding principle this time is to make it as modern as practical. Think what would this car look like if it was built today. I know AC is re releasing a limited addition car but I have intentionally avoided looking at it as I don't want my build to be influenced by it.

I flirted hard with a digital gauge cluster. The dash in consideration is a 12" rectangle screen. When it came down to it I would have had to embed it near the center of the dash. It looked pretty interesting when in use but when off it made the car look like a Tesla, I was also concerned about solar glare. So traditional gauges it is.

My completion date was 8/3. Stewart called a couple days ago and she will arrive on Saturday the 25th. I am the first stop so yay!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202873&d=1723985173

Changes from the last one

IRS
Carbon Fiber Dash
Coyote Mounts
18" Wheels (not been ordered yet, will not be Halbrand)
Custom seats, door cards and transmission cover from Intatrim in the UK
Bluetooth navigation screen with both front and backup camera's (too many clowns on the road. I am going to protect myself with an integrated dash cam)
2" roll bars
TKX with mid shift
Chambered Exhaust
FFR headers with Cats
The plan right now is to integrate a chin spoiler. I have several different directions I can go with this but I am fully committed to doing it.
I have several color schemes in mind. I have only committed to one color. Whether it's the primary, secondary or accent color has yet to be decided but Ladies and Gentlemen I would like to introduce you to Chevy Amplify Orange.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202889&d=1724005210

Lastly I am trying so hard NOT to supercharge the coyote. I keep telling myself 450 is plenty and I DO NOT NEED 650hp at the wheel. I DO NOT!! Having said that I have not ruled it out.

[Blitzboy54]

Adventures in Coyote'ing

I am fully committed to running a Coyote. My last car had pushrod 306, it was fine but no longer what I want. After committing to a Coyote I learned some stuff. Mainly, there are no more Gen 3 crate engines, like anywhere. The Gen 4 is available but I did not....1. Have $12,000 for an engine or 2. Want to be the first one through the wall on this even if I did.

So as gently used an engine as I could find was for me the right move. I found a side collision 2017 Gen 2 with 13k miles on it. I did my homework and it was in fact what it was being listed as. The company selling it offered free residential shipping and had a 100% rating on both Google and Ebay. So the trigger was pulled. When she arrived she looked GREAT!!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202863&d=1723984764

While doing my due diligence however I found this. The core plugs were popped out on both heads (RutRow).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202862&d=1723984764

The engine is so clean otherwise and the miles so low I couldn't completely give up on it. So I took it to a shop to have it dyno'd. I found some cheap headers and away we went.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202864&d=1723984764

I got lucky in that a fellow builder Gbranham had also run into Coyote issues but switched to a 427. He had all the integration parts that he could not use. So I purchased them from him. He got rid of some useless parts and I saved $500 (score). I was able to get her ready to run.

The shop called and said the good news is they got it to start. That was the end of the good news. The engine had no compression on any of the drivers side cylinders. This was a bummer.

I called the guy I bought the engine from and he agreed to ship it back at his cost. He had another engine they had just listed with 40K miles on it that he would sell me at a discount to try and make up for the mishap. I agreed to this. So he refunded me the difference and sent me the second engine.

When again doing my due diligence I found this.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202865&d=1723984764

The throttle body had a lot of burned oil on it. This makes almost no sense so I removed it and found almost a half a cup of oil in the intake manifold. Learning from my first mistake and did a leak down test and found 3 cylinders were over 40% and leaking in both directions. The spark plugs were all very wet as well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202866&d=1723984764

So back went engine number 2

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202870&d=1723985119

ALL IS NOT LOST

So now I have all my money back and no engine. While figuring out next steps I found that you can buy a Factory rebuilt engine directly from Ford. These engines come with a 100K mile warranty and cost about as much as a used pull out. $7500 delivered. The downside is there is a $1200 core fee. I searched all over and found a seized Gen 2 core from a guy on FB marketplace he was selling for $400. I talked him into selling it to me for $350. The rebuild does not come with an intake manifold, fuel parts, coil pack or harness. I now have all those things for the cost of the core so this was a very good deal for me.

The engine arrives tomorrow. I am super excited.

[Blitzboy54]

In the meantime I my goal on this build is to control the sound. I have a set of FFR side pipes and decided to weld in a set of mufflers from Chambered Exhaust. I went with the 2.5" with packing. My goal is to be able to take short 30 minute local rides and not need ear plugs. On long trips or trips involving the highway you need them for the wind noise alone, that is unavoidable. These mufflers are 2” longer than the stock FFR version.

So I brought them to my buddies house and we got started

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202871&d=1723985173

I also want to angle the tips down, so I am going to stop here for now. After I get them fitted with the body I will weld on the support tabs and re attach the tips once I find the angle that works best. My daughter is moving off campus so we have been collecting a bunch of stuff she needs for another week. Looking forward to getting my garage back.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202872&d=1723985173


I also managed to get started on the pedal. We will see if this is enough. I have read enough threads that imply it might not be. We will see

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202881&d=1724002853

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202880&d=1724002853

[UpstateCobraGuy]

Delivery Party?

[Junbug]

In the meantime I my goal on this build is to control the sound. I have a set of FFR side pipes and decided to weld in a set of mufflers from Chambered Exhaust. I went with the 2.5" with packing. My goal is to be able to take short 30 minute local rides and not need ear plugs. On long trips or trips involving the highway you need them for the wind noise alone, that is unavoidable.

So I brought them to my buddies house and we got started


I also want to angle the tips down, so I am going to stop here for now. After I get them fitted with the body I will weld on the support tabs and re attach the tips once I find the angle that works best. My daughter is moving off campus so we have been collecting a bunch of stuff she needs for another week. Looking forward to getting my garage back.


I also managed to get started on the pedal. We will see if this is enough. I have read enough threads that imply it might not be. We will see

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202881&d=1724002853

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202880&d=1724002853

I found that I needed to open up the holes in the bolt mounting locations to get the pedal body to fit right. In doing so I popped out the small circular metal rings and used a round hand file to gently widen the holes as needed. The body provides the support once installed so when putting the bolts in, i ensured the metal rings were back in place, albeit in larger holes. Looking good! Can't wait to see how those pipes turn out, with the tip pointed down... should look and sound sharp.

[Blitzboy54]

Delivery Party?

Oh heck yeah! That’s a great idea. I’ll be in touch.

[Namrups]

Excited for you Jesse! Your engine issues suck but it sounds like you've got them figured out. Like your build ideas and am looking forward to your build. Let me know what time saturday. You will hear me before you see me!!! ;)

[cv2065]

Your last Cobra was awesome. I'm sure this next one will top that. Excited for your new build!

[John Ibele]

Way to go, Jesse. I can't say I've got the bug to build another one yet. But I wouldn't rule it out. Happy to enjoy another of your build threads, good luck!

[gbranham]

Glad those Coyote parts are being put to use! Sorry about your engine woes!

Greg

[Its Bruce]

Can you please take a photo of the cross section of the FFR-supplied muffler now that it's cut off? Thx

[Blitzboy54]

Can you please take a photo of the cross section of the FFR-supplied muffler now that it's cut off? Thx

Shoot, sorry man, I tossed them in the recycle bin after inspecting them. It didn’t occur to me to take a photo.

I should know better. Sorry.

[ggunter]

Sorry to hear about the engines from the internet. Its, a chance all of us take when buying there. Luckily you dealt with someone who was reputable. I think the Ford rebuild is a great idea and they warranty is fantastic. It takes the fear factor out of buying from unknowns on the internet. I am wanting to mount a camera on my roll bar that shoots both forward and backward because of several almost rear end collisions that I have had from someone coming up behind you and not paying attention. One a school bus and the other a tractor trailer. Both times if I did not have an escape route it would have been a very bad day for me. Do you know what kind of camera set up you are going to use? Dash cams are great for telling the truth in court. Your other car was beautiful. Sometimes I think of doing another car, but I think I'm too old to do this again, as much fun as it was.

[Blitzboy54]

Sorry to hear about the engines from the internet. Its, a chance all of us take when buying there. Luckily you dealt with someone who was reputable. I think the Ford rebuild is a great idea and they warranty is fantastic. It takes the fear factor out of buying from unknowns on the internet. I am wanting to mount a camera on my roll bar that shoots both forward and backward because of several almost rear end collisions that I have had from someone coming up behind you and not paying attention. One a school bus and the other a tractor trailer. Both times if I did not have an escape route it would have been a very bad day for me. Do you know what kind of camera set up you are going to use? Dash cams are great for telling the truth in court. Your other car was beautiful. Sometimes I think of doing another car, but I think I'm too old to do this again, as much fun as it was.

I am considering this unit. It's really a sound system but I'm not planning on connecting that. I will bluetooth in my phone for navigation. I am also considering some creative charging options.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CN94Z1ZM/?coliid=I1UJRJ01AQ9FG3&colid=1XALGD0XZJU3U&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

The plan would be to mount the front camera somewhere that is not obvious. Will keep a flash drive memory that writes over.

[Blitzboy54]

The Eagle has landed

The factory refurb arrived and it really is what I hoped it would be.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202954&d=1724161532

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202952&d=1724161410


I drained the oil and made the cobra changes. I tipped the engine and removed the pan and pickup. I added the Moroso pan/pickup and all the sensors. I will be using Autometer gauges. Not the FFR offering but I found a set I really like. I put the oil pressure, water temp and oil temp sending units. I put the oil back in. Since I will be changing it 500 miles in no reason not to re use brand new oil.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202958&d=1724187224

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202957&d=1724187224

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202956&d=1724187224

[ggunter]

That baby looks great. How much was it with shipping?

[Blitzboy54]

That baby looks great. How much was it with shipping?

$7500

There is a $1200 core fee. I got it waived and found a core. The issue is honestly core coyote’s are really hard to find. It’s kind of wild how in demand the Coyote is right now. You find an LS anywhere.

[RoadSwag]

Good Sir... your car (it will always be YOUR car) has not gone far and is being well cared for... but driven HARD! I had the pleasure of buying this beautiful green beast and drive it almost daily. From one OCD engineer to another, this is a well built hand crafted masterpiece. I look forward to watching your next build and taking diligent notes. But first I gotta move the dang pedal box up about 6" so I am not on my tip toes driving it. So worth it though.

I am quickly learning there is no better feeling than getting a thumbs up or head nod from every vehicle, every age, every passerby...
203011

[Blitzboy54]

Good Sir... your car (it will always be YOUR car) has not gone far and is being well cared for... but driven HARD! I had the pleasure of buying this beautiful green beast and drive it almost daily. From one OCD engineer to another, this is a well built hand crafted masterpiece. I look forward to watching your next build and taking diligent notes. But first I gotta move the dang pedal box up about 6" so I am not on my tip toes driving it. So worth it though.

I am quickly learning there is no better feeling than getting a thumbs up or head nod from every vehicle, every age, every passerby...
203011

Ha! Hey man I’m glad you’re enjoying it! Welcome aboard.


Funny story, about a month after you took possession I was in California on business, I got text messages from 3 different people saying they saw you driving around. I appreciate the kind words. Glad you made your way to the forum. This place is the best.

[Namrups]

Good Sir... your car (it will always be YOUR car) has not gone far and is being well cared for... but driven HARD! I had the pleasure of buying this beautiful green beast and drive it almost daily. From one OCD engineer to another, this is a well built hand crafted masterpiece. I look forward to watching your next build and taking diligent notes. But first I gotta move the dang pedal box up about 6" so I am not on my tip toes driving it. So worth it though.

I am quickly learning there is no better feeling than getting a thumbs up or head nod from every vehicle, every age, every passerby...
203011

We need you to join the Upstate Cobra Club! Keep the car in the "family"!

[RoadSwag]

Not surprised! I have to keep finding new "loops" to drive so I dont look like that old guy out on my sunday drive. Look forward to getting to meet more fanatics.

[RoadSwag]

We need you to join the Upstate Cobra Club! Keep the car in the "family"!

Please tell me more!

[Namrups]

Please tell me more!

On facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/398129913564479 146 members from all over the northeast. Great group of guys.

[Blitzboy54]

Calm before the storm

It's been a busy few days with family visits and getting my daughter back to college and moved into her new digs. Now that the garage is empty I managed to get some time to get organized. I received the call from the driver today. He will be here bright and early in the morning at 7:00am. I got busy and cranked out a down and dirty body buck and frame dolly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203057&d=1724459050

Also got the engine dressed with the pulley drive HW.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203056&d=1724459050

[fauxbra5.0]

Where did you get the reman engine from?

[Jeff Kleiner]

I saw the Stewart truck leave FFR this morning after loading yours up!

Jeff

[Blitzboy54]

Where did you get the reman engine from?

Fraser Engine and Transmissions. They do there own in house rebuilds but broker Ford units as well.

There are a handful of other company’s you can buy them from. But you can also get them directly from Ford.

https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/engine/reman-gas-engines

[Blitzboy54]

i saw the stewart truck leave ffr this morning after loading yours up!

Jeff

sweet!!!!!

[Blitzboy54]

Well, it happened. The Roadster fairy arrived early this morning. Just before it got here I heard a rumble, I wasn't sure what it was then realized it was our friend Scott and his Daytona Coupe. He dragged himself out of bed at 6:00 in the morning to come help me take delivery. A real team player.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203076&d=1724531706

The truck arrived packed to the gills. A little fun fact, the driver was the same fella that dropped off my first build. He remembered the house and noticed it had been painted since the last time he was here. I was honestly impressed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203079&d=1724531888

Scott jumping in with both feet and his load bearing belt.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203078&d=1724531706


We dug through all the boxes and pulled through the inventory. The only thing missing is I ordered a 2 sets of 2 inch roll bars and grommets. They were supposed to ship with my delivery but missed the truck. I assume they will be shipped along later. The only back ordered item was my drive shaft. Pretty impressive compared to my last build where I had 3 pages.

Once inventory was complete I tucked away the boxes based on need. The parts most likely to be used first up front. Nice thing about having done this before is knowing what you need and when.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203081&d=1724531888

[Blitzboy54]

The Upstate Cobra Club gang started showing up in force. It was an incredible afternoon of good friends hanging out and enjoying the process. A couple guys drove up from Hudson over an hour and half away. Great group of people.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203080&d=1724531888

And of course they all brought their toys.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203083&d=1724532191

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203084&d=1724532191

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203086&d=1724532258

And even our new friend Chris stopped by with an old friend.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203085&d=1724532258


All in all it was an incredible day. The weather was perfect and the company was even better. We had a lot of laughs and got this project off to a tremendous start. Thanks to everyone for all their help today. It was very much appreciated. Roadster MK4 build number 11,061 is off to a great start


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203082&d=1724531888

[Blitzboy54]

Like Riding a Bike

Got right to work marking and drilling the panels. I plan to powder coat the panels so I have to prioritize getting the F Panels and Firewall done. Neither fits in my oven and you need the F Panels in place before you can build the front suspension. I plan to take all the foot box panels to the shop with me. If the price isn't outrageous I may take the easy road and have them do all of them for me. Just to get a head start.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203212&d=1724765504

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203213&d=1724765504


The naked frame is itself a work of art.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203214&d=1724765504

[Blitzboy54]

A Glove box, a Heater and a Coyote

The age old struggle to have ones cake and eat it too. I want the largest engine FFR allows you to stuff in one of these. I want a heater and I want a full glove box. No, I don't want to shorten my box and I don't want an firewall forward.

So where to start...

First I drew inspiration from 2 people. Ducky2009 and Frank of i.e. 427 fame. Like most of you I have scoured 100's of build threads for ideas. Ducky had an inovative approach. He also ran a Gen2 coyote with both and his solution was to shorten the box but also to push his heater out into the engine bay like so

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203215&d=1724765575

I reached out and David was kind enough to go out to his car and take some measurements. His setup runs 7" from the firewall and he said he has just under 9 inches before the engine becomes a hard stop. So I consider 8.5" to be my limit. Frank on the other hand did an incredible video where he used a heater from Summit and modified it to make more stuff fit. In these two approaches lies my solution.

I purchased the following kit from Summit https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-991102-1

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203216&d=1724765575

I am also using the firewall from FFMetals. It is substantially thicker and better if you are going to hang anything off of it. I marked the box and shortened it by 1 inch. I plan to use the 2 grey ducts as a feed through method.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203217&d=1724765575

The idea is this. Mount the heater against the firewall like so. The heater has 1/4-20 threads in the back and I will add rivnuts to the firewall to mount it. I also have a plan for a weather seal between the rough edge of the rough cut box and the firewall that will keep it air tight. If I owned a band saw maybe just a bead of silicone but sadly I do not so.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203249&d=1724806746

I then drilled out the firewall and put in the modified louvers. I probably won't drill for the mounts until the engine is in. I have some flexibility of placement before permanently mounting it so why not wait.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203248&d=1724806548

The box sits over the top and the firewall essentially becomes the front wall of the heater. Yes, it will get warm, no I don't think that matters (it's tiny heater core and not that much hotter than the engine bay itself. I will also put a layer of insulation between the core and wall. The entire arrangement puts the blower 7.5" from the firewall which will clear and gives me full clearance for the glove box.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203247&d=1724806548

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203246&d=1724806548

[Namrups]

Whow! Look at this boy go!! At this rate you will have it registered by Christmas!! Great start Jesse!

[Blitzboy54]

IRS Prep

While I am wait for powder coat I am starting the IRS prep beginning with the grunt work. I pulled the hubs and knuckles and got to it.

Mercifully you only have to make this cut once (well twice). I don't trust that my sawsall won't jump around so slow and steady won the race using my pneumatic air saw. It took a while but made a pretty clean cut.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203403&d=1725045852


Next it was time to take the hammer to the metric wheel hub studs. These came out without any issue at all.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203404&d=1725045852

I started torquing down the studs.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203405&d=1725045852

I gave Scott a call to see if there was a better way and he unsurprisingly had all kinds of "done it before" knowledge. He had a re enforced bearing that allows the washer to rotate instead of rub against the lug nut. This makes everything a lot easier. Naturally I got so busy torquing down studs I forgot to take any pictures so your going to have to trust me when I tell you it worked better. He also had a 5/8 drill bit so he brought that along. I drilled out the knuckled and front differential mounts while he was here.

At this point I figured we were done but then we said to hell with it, and started hanging the pumpkin.

Now this was really cool. I have read enough threads to know that this job gets dicey. Scott even said this might be ugly since we didn't have the tapered bolts. We pushed the rear of the framed and centered the pumpkin under the large eyebolt I have mounted in a joist for lifting heavy things. We used an ingenious method of using two ratchet straps to pull up then tip the pumpkin forward to line up the bolt holes. It was so ingenious and worked so well we had the thing hung in 20 minutes. Smooth as butter. It went so well I again didn't take any pictures of it. The bad news is I am complete failure with the build documentation this time around. The good news is the IRS center section is done and it looks fantastic.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203408&d=1725045920

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203431&d=1725068042

I found some inconsistency in the build manual. After we hung the diff I torqued the bolts to 100 lb-ft per the manual.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203429&d=1725067819

Then later in the section I found this

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203432&d=1725068158

I am not clear why they would want it torqued to 100 then later 129. Did anyone else leave it at 100? Not the biggest deal as I will re toque them but I found that a bit odd.

[Blitzboy54]

Building the rear end

One of the things I didn't do the first time was I never marked any of my bolts. I torqued everything per the manual then put the car up on stands every year and checked them with a torque wrench. It just doesn't need to be that hard. In the Marine Corps we used torque seal on everything. Any bolt that didn't require safety wire got a hard plastic seal that you could visually see. So I went back to my roots and purchased this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q84FX6K?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

It works great and is kind of thick. It dries hard and gives you a clear visual reference. This time the plan is to lift the car and simply have a look.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203409&d=1725045920

I started putting the IRS together. It's a fun erector set of parts. I have a question though. The manual says not to torque the CV Axle nut until the parking brake is installed. Is that because you have to use the parking brake to hold it while you torque it down? Is there any other reason? I appreciate your input.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203428&d=1725067819

[JMD]

I'm still on my first build but can already imagine how much faster it would go the second time around. I spend so much time on research, making sure I have the right hardware, making sure things are oriented properly, not knowing what it's supposed to look like until I'm done...I could go back and do it again in half the time now! I can imagine taking pictures is less of a priority this time around as well. I look forward to following this build. Godspeed!

[Namrups]

Building the rear end

One of the things I didn't do the first time was I never marked any of my bolts. I torqued everything per the manual then put the car up on stands every year and checked them with a torque wrench. It just doesn't need to be that hard. In the Marine Corps we used torque seal on everything. Any bolt that didn't require safety wire got a hard plastic seal that you could visually see. So I went back to my roots and purchased this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q84FX6K?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

It works great and is kind of thick. It dries hard and gives you a clear visual reference. This time the plan is to lift the car and simply have a look.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203409&d=1725045920

I started putting the IRS together. It's a fun erector set of parts. I have a question though. The manual says not to torque the CV Axle nut until the parking brake is installed. Is that because you have to use the parking brake to hold it while you torque it down? Is there any other reason? I appreciate your input.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203428&d=1725067819

Looking good Jesse! I don't remember what my final torque was on my bolts. Not sure it makes a difference as long as they are not moving. At this rate you will have a roller in two weeks!! Start looking for an old set of mustang wheels and tires to use while you wait for the custom ones you want to order! I enjoyed helping with the build. Anytime you need help, just give me a call.

[Blitzboy54]

As I was rounding 3rd base on the IRS there is mention in the manual not to torque the CV nut until the parking brake cables are run. What I think they are trying to say is you can't tighten the nut fully until you have the parking brake to hold it. I build in a very specific way. I am also this way at work. I have to finish things completely or I am running the very real risk of not getting back to it later. I realize there are all kinds of grown up ways I can prevent this but I am not building a race car in my garage because I am a grown up.

That being said I prefer to finish the entire IRS now. Fortunately I have this tool that is used to secure the pinion for removing the pinion nut on my previous build. It is designed to accept a 3/4 in breaker bar so it is plenty stout to hold the drive line.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203487&d=1725205367

I wrapped a rag around the frame and got to work


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203485&d=1725205358

This worked great until I discovered why the Ford spec for the CV nut is 98 lb-ft (or maybe this is just a coincidence) because at 99 lb-ft the limited slip diff kicks in. I can torque it to 98 but anything passed that and the whole thing rotates. I cannot get the 45 deg passed 98 lb-ft.

So to solve that (which also solves the original problem) is I came up with this. Simply pinch the ebrake with channel locks and use a clamp to hold it. It worked really well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203481&d=1725205233

So now my IRS is complete. I can't get over how physically attractive it is. I have seen hundreds of pictures but in person with the Wilwood brakes it really is a thing of beauty. I will have to work on the front of the car as soon as possible because my frame is getting tippy. :). While waiting for powder coat I will move on to the pedal box.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203482&d=1725205233

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203483&d=1725205233

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203484&d=1725205233

[Mike.Bray]

It is a thing of beauty!

Well done.

[Fman]

Nice work! What did you end up setting your Koni shocks at? Hard or Soft ride setting?

[Blitzboy54]

Nice work! What did you end up setting your Koni shocks at? Hard or Soft ride setting?

I found some old threads on the subject. I found one where doctor Kleiner said that the soft setting was ideal and what FFR had in mind. Honestly my last car had elite handling. Now having IRS I’m excited that it will be getting better. It’s a rough ride though. I can’t imagine off the track wanting it any stiffer.

[Namrups]

Don't forget to insert your vent plug into your pumpkin and run a vent line. Check your lube level also.

[RogerRoger88]

Well, it happened. The Roadster fairy arrived early this morning. Just before it got here I heard a rumble, I wasn't sure what it was then realized it was our friend Scott and his Daytona Coupe. He dragged himself out of bed at 6:00 in the morning to come help me take delivery. A real team player.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203076&d=1724531706

The truck arrived packed to the gills. A little fun fact, the driver was the same fella that dropped off my first build. He remembered the house and noticed it had been painted since the last time he was here. I was honestly impressed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203079&d=1724531888

Scott jumping in with both feet and his load bearing belt.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203078&d=1724531706


We dug through all the boxes and pulled through the inventory. The only thing missing is I ordered a 2 sets of 2 inch roll bars and grommets. They were supposed to ship with my delivery but missed the truck. I assume they will be shipped along later. The only back ordered item was my drive shaft. Pretty impressive compared to my last build where I had 3 pages.

Once inventory was complete I tucked away the boxes based on need. The parts most likely to be used first up front. Nice thing about having done this before is knowing what you need and when.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203081&d=1724531888
Hi Jesse, looking forward to reading through your build thread as I'm building mine at the same time.
One thing you mentioned above was that you had ordered 2 sets of 2" roll bars. I didn't think 2" was an option any more. Or did you mean 1 1/2" roll bars?

Thanks,
Jesse

[Blitzboy54]

Hi Jesse, looking forward to reading through your build thread as I'm building mine at the same time.
One thing you mentioned above was that you had ordered 2 sets of 2" roll bars. I didn't think 2" was an option any more. Or did you mean 1 1/2" roll bars?

Thanks,
Jesse

Thank you and welcome aboard!

The kit comes standard with 1.5" role bars. This is what I had on my last build. Mk I-III used 2". Because of that FFR still supports the 2 inch bars. You can purchase them directly from the parts catalog (google factory five parts). I purchased 2 sets with grommets. They do not fit on the studs that are in the frame BUT it turns out you can makes sleeves using 1.25" I.D./1.75" O.D. .250" wall tubing. This will allow them to fit but you will need to drill through quite a bit more steel. Some guys shorten them, I will not. First I don't want to rework the back stud and second is the height is set to keep your head under it if there is a roll over. While a think shorter bars would look even better I am not confident making that change. For those reasons I will keep the geometry the same. But for my money the 2 inch roll bars are head and shoulders better looking than the 1.5".

[RogerRoger88]

Thank you and welcome aboard!

The kit comes standard with 1.5" role bars. This is what I had on my last build. Mk I-III used 2". Because of that FFR still supports the 2 inch bars. You can purchase them directly from the parts catalog (google factory five parts). I purchased 2 sets with grommets. They do not fit on the studs that are in the frame BUT it turns out you can makes sleeves using 1.25" I.D./1.75" O.D. .250" wall tubing. This will allow them to fit but you will need to drill through quite a bit more steel. Some guys shorten them, I will not. First I don't want to rework the back stud and second is the height is set to keep your head under it if there is a roll over. While a think shorter bars would look even better I am not confident making that change. For those reasons I will keep the geometry the same. But for my money the 2 inch roll bars are head and shoulders better looking than the 1.5".

Thanks for the info! Not sure if I'm gonna spend an extra $800 on new dual black roll bars and grommets. Drilling through steel I can handle. Reworking geometry not so much.

[Mike.Bray]

I went with the Breeze bar, 1.75" diameter. It's a welded construction which is a bit of a pain but there's no seams for a smooth look. I really hate the paperclip look of the FFR 1.5" bars.

https://www.imagecoast.com/images/MichaelBray1/20240517101109mediumrotated.jpg

https://www.imagecoast.com/images/MichaelBray1/20240425152626mediumrotated.jpg

[Blitzboy54]

Those are sexy. I considered it. I don't have a welder and ultimately it was more of unknown for me. Agree about the 1.5", I will also not have a Frankenstein bolt. There are a couple work arounds for it.

[Mike.Bray]

I don't have a TIG welder anymore but it wasn't hard to find someone with a portable one to weld this. The small amount of effort was worth it to me.

I had it chromed at a local plating shop.

[Redstang69]

Not sure if you're interested, but I have a set of mustang wheels with tires mounted from my build. I'm in Eastern Ohio, so with shipping not sure if it'd be worth it or not. Tried to PM you but it said your box was full.

[Blitzboy54]

Thanks man. I cleaned up my inbox. I can receive messages again. I’ll reach out.

[cv2065]

Those are sexy. I considered it. I don't have a welder and ultimately it was more of unknown for me. Agree about the 1.5", I will also not have a Frankenstein bolt. There are a couple work arounds for it.

Lots of mobile welders that will come out to your house and not really expensive. I started out looking at the 2" bars, but then Jeff filled me in on the hassle to get those welded up and moved, so moved to the Breeze ones. Those Breeze bars with the recline and shorter base look awesome!

[Blitzboy54]

Pedal Box

First thing I needed to get squared away for this was my powder coating arrangement. Last time I simply made a mess in the basement. I can't remember who's thread I saw this on but it was genius. I purchased a wardrobe box from Uhaul and boom, we have an cheap instant powder coating booth. It keeps almost all of it contained. I simply put the ground cable on the metal bar and start shooting. It's great so thank you to whoever I stole the idea from.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203621&d=1725500186

I decided to have a little fun with the powder this time around. Prismatic had an Amplify Orange match already in production so I shot my pedal box parts in it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203553&d=1725320856

Not perfect but they came out pretty nice.

Nothing special on the pedal box, it came together as expected.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203618&d=1725499394

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203617&d=1725499394

EXCEPT, I forgot that I was installing a Coyote. I know I don't need to but I will shoot these guys before I install them.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203615&d=1725499394

Karen would like a word with the manager

Look, it's in so I am not going to complain but putting the coyote pedal in is not a simple matter of following the directions. FFR could use an update. At the very least the metal sleeves need to com out. Also unless you want to cut the right side of the pedal too far you probably have to move the holes. I would also recommend putting it in before the Wilwood box. It needs your full attention. Having said that it's in and I like the way it turned out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203619&d=1725499526

[Blitzboy54]

Eating around the edges

I am waiting for panels from powder coat. I have settled on a paint scheme. I think I know what the car will look like when it's complete. I am going to keep those details to myself for now but I did decide on charcoal and black for most of the engine bay panels.

So in the mean time I am working on what I can.

I mounted my front lower control arms and greased the fittings. I also assembled my front shocks and cut down my short arms on the upper A arms for power steering. It's not my favorite job but certainly easier the second time around. They can't be installed until the F panels are in but they are now ready to go.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203830&d=1725833913

Since the frame is empty I also figured it was a good time to mount the Breeze battery box. I used the one on my last build and I much prefer the battery upfront for all kinds of access reasons. This is a well made piece and my advise to anyone installing one is simply take your time and follow the directions. Mark puts all the tips you need to get it right the first time.


This is it mocked up

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203831&d=1725833913

Then I lined up all my various bits that I wanted to PC orange.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203832&d=1725833913

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203833&d=1725833913

I think I am mostly done with the orange so I cleaned out the gun. It looks like I purchased just the right amount as I have very little left.

[Blitzboy54]

I installed the box. It went in without drama. I will say that the SS rivets are brutal but what I did this time was use a C clamp on the handle of a regular rivet tool to slowly compress the handle. After about three pulls the rivets pop. It takes a while but kept me from having a stroke so that's a win. As an aside the box comes pre drilled for 3 rivets but it ships with 5. The idea is to add 2 more. In my experience 3 is more than enough. That thing isn't going anywhere.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203834&d=1725833964

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203836&d=1725833964

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203837&d=1725833964

I also installed the Coyote neutral safety switch. If I don't get the panels in the next couple of days i will probably put the steering rack in.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203835&d=1725833964

[UpstateCobraGuy]

Jesse,

Looking great! Can't wait to see it again. I'm pretty sure the Upstate Cobra's will be more than willing to come over and eat pizza too...:cool:

[Blitzboy54]

I’m always available for pizza

[JMD]

I like the orange accents and the garage powder coating setup. I may look into doing something like that. I left most of my aluminum pieces natural, but there were a few metal parts I painted that would probably have been better off powdercoated. My seat brackets, sway bar mounts, etc. They are all parts that I can get to and remove fairly easily to recoat when needed, but powder coating is always the better option.

[Blitzboy54]

I like the orange accents and the garage powder coating setup. I may look into doing something like that. I left most of my aluminum pieces natural, but there were a few metal parts I painted that would probably have been better off powdercoated. My seat brackets, sway bar mounts, etc. They are all parts that I can get to and remove fairly easily to recoat when needed, but powder coating is always the better option.

I powder coat almost everything. You're right it is better than paint and you can have some fun with it. The real reason for me is the NE gets muggy and the humidity eventually starts rusting uncoated steel parts.

[Blitzboy54]

Drive shaft

I continue to install things that I don't need F panels for. I moved on to the drive shaft. This is pretty straight forward and something I wouldn't bother documenting if it were not for 2 things.

First, the Coyote pedal. I thought I was done with that but not exactly as it turns out. One key issue with the pedal is the drive shaft. It’s a very narrow fit and mine as installed, was in the way. If you run a Coyote you are going to need to trim around the upper bolt to EXACTLY match the pedal plate. As designed there is only about 1mm of room. That's enough but there is not wiggle room.

I marked the back of the back of the pedal with it still mounted. Had I known ahead of time this was a thing I would have done this off the car.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204115&d=1726274148

As you can see with it removed the room between the pedal plate and drive shaft is nominal.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204116&d=1726274148

After trimming and re installing you can see it clears without interference but not by much. This picture looks like they are touching but it clears.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204122&d=1726274366


The other big surprise is the bottom leg of the drive shaft is too long. I installed one of these before and it was a touch too long. By reversing the spherical bearing you could create a little more space and it just fit. Now it's not even close. You simply cannot turn the shaft. It's a full cm too long (or at least mine was). Since I was going to trim it anyhow I decided to put the bearing back the pointing out. I marked and cut it and now everything fits like it should

Also the little button head screws that hold in the pins on the joints pictured below. each joint has 4 (3mm) screws. One of them was loose and partially unthreaded. These cars vibrate so I preemptively removed all of them one at a time and put thread locker on them. It would take a lot to go wrong but better safe than sorry.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204119&d=1726274223

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204117&d=1726274148

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204118&d=1726274148

[JMD]

I actually cut about a half inch off my lower steering shaft as well, but that was before I reverse the pillow bearing. Having done both there is plenty of room to remove and reinstall the lower shaft as needed without removing any other parts. There is no reason not to do this, and as far as I can tell as there is plenty of extra extension provided by the upper shaft. I also used my drill to dimple for every set screw, not just the one they tell you to in the manual. One little slip of any part of either shaft into the joint and no more steering. Helps me sleep better at night. Definitely an area you don't want to take any risks with.

[Blitzboy54]

I actually cut about a half inch off my lower steering shaft as well, but that was before I reverse the pillow bearing. Having done both there is plenty of room to remove and reinstall the lower shaft as needed without removing any other parts. There is no reason not to do this, and as far as I can tell as there is plenty of extra extension provided by the upper shaft. I also used my drill to dimple for every set screw, not just the one they tell you to in the manual. One little slip of any part of either shaft into the joint and no more steering. Helps me sleep better at night. Definitely an area you don't want to take any risks with.


That’s a good point. There is no reason not to do it. I’ll knock that out this weekend

[Namrups]

Having a good start on your second build, how is it different from your first build in respect to how you are going about it?

[M22_COBRA]

Pedal Box

At the very least the metal sleeves need to com out. Also unless you want to cut the right side of the pedal too far you probably have to move the holes.

Which metal sleeves are you referring to? I'm close to this step and I'll need to not repeat these issues.
Thanks.

[Blitzboy54]

Which metal sleeves are you referring to? I'm close to this step and I'll need to not repeat these issues.
Thanks.

There are metal sleeves inside the bolt holes. In order to create enough wiggle room to make everything fit they have to be pulled out. At least they did in my case.

[Blitzboy54]

Having a good start on your second build, how is it different from your first build in respect to how you are going about it?

That’s an interesting question. I’m spending a LOT less time micro researching everything. It’s early so it’s kinda like going through the motions in some ways. The IRS was fun since it’s new for me. Today was pretty cool because I have hit a point where I need to create something new.

On a side note my driveshaft arrived. That sucker is only like 8” long. The area I would put a safety loop is pretty tight. I’m going to have to figure something out.

[Blitzboy54]

Plan B

One of the priorities for me on a second roadster was to do something different with the parking brake. I went with the stock setup last time and didn't love it. I am in the minority of folks when I say I actually really like the handle. It's a creative design and applies a lot of force to the parking brake. I just hated where it was. The original AC was right hand drive so naturally the parking brake would be on that side. Carol left it. Just like the shifter he came up with a creative inexpensive solution and ran with it. I respect the heck out of that but I think I can improve on it.

Now I am on a strict budget for this car. I am dangerously close to over budget at this point but "horseshoes and hand grenades" or some such. Estopp and Lokar make great products but both are expensive for what they are. So my goal is to either use parts that I already have in the kit or spend less than $100.

I started goofing around with the parking brake and came up with this. Under this arrangement using parts that are currently in the complete kit you can relocate the handle to the top of the cover.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204158&d=1726436641

By lining up the mounts to behind the last support near the drive shaft couple and just under the upper transmission cover support you can put it on the passenger side on top of the tunnel. I would drill and use rivnuts with red locktite.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204159&d=1726436641

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204160&d=1726436641

It would sit here. I later made a small adjustment to what you see here, also installed the driveshaft so I could judge clearance. I had to lower the rear mount by a cm to get the ratchet teeth below the trans cover. Most trim rings are between 5 and 5.25 inches so it has to be under. All things considered I almost called it here and started drilling.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204161&d=1726436641

[Blitzboy54]

Plan A

This is all well and good and honestly relieved I have an acceptable solution ready to go but what I really want is a clean tunnel and an electric brake. Like I said Estopp and the rest are great products but at the end of the day I need electric control of linear piston. I think I can figure something out. I have been poking around for solutions and I found this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NM8H5TG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

It's generic linear actuator with built in limit switches and 2" of throw. It has 350 lbs of pull force (more than enough) and it was less than $40.

It arrived and worked as expected.


https://youtu.be/v8rVmIQAIQY?si=QQbajR8b-8xmBvRb

I installed it in a way that would allow me to test it without cutting the cables. I have no idea where I am going to end up so I would like to avoid doing something permanent. I wrapped the frame in a rag and used a worm clamp to secure it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204162&d=1726437002

[Blitzboy54]

After playing around it became obvious 2" is about an inch too much. I need to cut the throw in half. I have some ideas (one I am really excited about). In order to make the test below work I needed to put a lot of slack in it. There is plenty of room to attatch this unit on the underside of the original ebrake mount. I think I can get it pointing directly at the cable mounts.


https://youtu.be/06Jb_xcrTsM?si=8FWHDwu_buxhWG4M

Since it has built in limit switches I think a bi directional DC toggle switch is the plan. Hold in place until it stops. I would then use a separate 12v and put a proximity sensor on the shaft so when it's retracted and open it sends 12v to the parking brake light on the dash. Will run that trough a relay so it's only on when the car is on. Nothing is a done deal but I am very encouraged so far.

[JMD]

Super cool. I love the innovation and simplicity of this. I am a bit worried about my setup passing the HP inspection as I'm not using the stock handle (they don't work with my Gordon Levy wilwood brakes). I actually didn't want a handle at all and am using a ball valve fitting to hold pressure in the rear brake line. Technically it's not a separate braking system, but I'm hoping it gets through. If not I'll have to go to plan B...once I figure one out. But I like the idea of building something that can be engaged with a button. Will be following along and see what happens with yours. Good luck!

[Nigel Allen]

Plan B

One of the priorities for me on a second roadster was to do something different with the parking brake. I went with the stock setup last time and didn't love it. I am in the minority of folks when I say I actually really like the handle. It's a creative design and applies a lot of force to the parking brake. I just hated where it was. The original AC was right hand drive so naturally the parking brake would be on that side. Carol left it. Just like the shifter he came up with a creative inexpensive solution and ran with it. I respect the heck out of that but I think I can improve on it.

Now I am on a strict budget for this car. I am dangerously close to over budget at this point but "horseshoes and hand grenades" or some such. Estopp and Lokar make great products but both are expensive for what they are. So my goal is to either use parts that I already have in the kit or spend less than $100.

I started goofing around with the parking brake and came up with this. Under this arrangement using parts that are currently in the complete kit you can relocate the handle to the top of the cover.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204158&d=1726436641

By lining up the mounts to behind the last support near the drive shaft couple and just under the upper transmission cover support you can put it on the passenger side on top of the tunnel. I would drill and use rivnuts with red locktite.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204159&d=1726436641

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204160&d=1726436641

It would sit here. I later made a small adjustment to what you see here, also installed the driveshaft so I could judge clearance. I had to lower the rear mount by a cm to get the ratchet teeth below the trans cover. Most trim rings are between 5 and 5.25 inches so it has to be under. All things considered I almost called it here and started drilling.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204161&d=1726436641



My car is RHD. During the build process, I was worried that my knee might bang against the handbrake handle when driving. Honestly, it has never been an issue. So another option might be to move the lever to the left hand side of the trans tunnel?

204164

cheers,

Nigel

[Nigel Allen]

After playing around it became obvious 2" is about an inch too much. I need to cut the throw in half. I have some ideas (one I am really excited about). In order to make the test below work I needed to put a lot of slack in it. There is plenty of room to attatch this unit on the underside of the original ebrake mount. I think I can get it pointing directly at the cable mounts.


https://youtu.be/06Jb_xcrTsM?si=8FWHDwu_buxhWG4M

Since it has built in limit switches I think a bi directional DC toggle switch is the plan. Hold in place until it stops. I would then use a separate 12v and put a proximity sensor on the shaft so when it's retracted and open it sends 12v to the parking brake light on the dash. Will run that trough a relay so it's only on when the car is on. Nothing is a done deal but I am very encouraged so far.

Rather than relying on the limit switch to provide correct tension on the hand brake cables, you could use a current sensing relay to measure the motor current (torque) applied to the cables. This could be used to shut off the linear actuator. This way you would always have the correct tension applied to the brake cables. Something like this:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/226149578099?chn=ps&_ul=AU&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1-JOsj29UTauTPYixwyMI-w33&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=226149578099&targetid=2344112746930&device=c&mktype=pla_with_promotion&googleloc=9070882&poi=&campaignid=19657035767&mkgroupid=166752477259&rlsatarget=pla-2344112746930&abcId=9305369&merchantid=494522296&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImbrrnLvGiAMVyYJmAh0UjCzNEAQYCCAB EgLLq_D_BwE

I can help you with a wiring diagram if you like. I think it would be a cool solution.

Cheers,

Nige

[Blitzboy54]

Rather than relying on the limit switch to provide correct tension on the hand brake cables, you could use a current sensing relay to measure the motor current (torque) applied to the cables. This could be used to shut off the linear actuator. This way you would always have the correct tension applied to the brake cables. Something like this:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/226149578099?chn=ps&_ul=AU&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1-JOsj29UTauTPYixwyMI-w33&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=226149578099&targetid=2344112746930&device=c&mktype=pla_with_promotion&googleloc=9070882&poi=&campaignid=19657035767&mkgroupid=166752477259&rlsatarget=pla-2344112746930&abcId=9305369&merchantid=494522296&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImbrrnLvGiAMVyYJmAh0UjCzNEAQYCCAB EgLLq_D_BwE

I can help you with a wiring diagram if you like. I think it would be a cool solution.

Cheers,

Nige


Nigel,

This is a really cool idea. I have something similar in mind but a little lower tech. I am officially bumping your idea up. This is the new plan B and manual lever has been demoted to C.

As far as moving it to the drivers side I have a couple thoughts. First there is more room in the trans tunnel on that side as the driveshaft cheats to the right. The downside is I would have to cut and reeled the handle bracket and cable guide. The foot boxes are not symmetrical either. It’s an option.

[Nigel Allen]

Nigel,

This is a really cool idea. I have something similar in mind but a little lower tech. I am officially bumping your idea up. This is the new plan B and manual lever has been demoted to C.

As far as moving it to the drivers side I have a couple thoughts. First there is more room in the trans tunnel on that side as the driveshaft cheats to the right. The downside is I would have to cut and reeled the handle bracket and cable guide. The foot boxes are not symmetrical either. It’s an option.

It's bedtime down here, but I can sketch up the circuit I have in my head tomorrow morning. If I've got it right, in addition to the current sensor, you will only need a 5 pin automotive relay and a diode.

BTW, do you happen to know what the maximum current draw is on that actuator?

Cheers,

Nige

[Namrups]

One thing to keep in mind, my cables did streach a little after a season (about 1/2 inch). I had to re-adjust. I would also think about running your cables through a tube of some kind (PVC pipe maybe) to keep them from hanging when the tension is off. Great idea. I will put this on my future upgrade list on the coupe!

[Blitzboy54]

One thing to keep in mind, my cables did streach a little after a season (about 1/2 inch). I had to re-adjust. I would also think about running your cables through a tube of some kind (PVC pipe maybe) to keep them from hanging when the tension is off. Great idea. I will put this on my future upgrade list on the coupe!


That was just a rough test. It will have an adjustable tentioner for sure.

[Nigel Allen]

That was just a rough test. It will have an adjustable tentioner for sure.

The sweet part of a current sensing relay, is it will automatically shut off when tension is correct, even if cables stretch/ pads wear.

[Blitzboy54]

The sweet part of a current sensing relay, is it will automatically shut off when tension is correct, even if cables stretch/ pads wear.

Agreed Nigel. I am looking forward to trying it out.

What I had come up with before Nigel entered the conversation was how to reduce the throw from 2" down to probably 1". Making a lever was my first thought. If you give it multiple anchor points you can make the throw adjustable. The other idea I had and the one I ultimately went with was a spring. By introducing a heavy spring in line you are both shortening the throw and manage the tension. I did a little math and came up with an 85lb 5 inch spring with an inch of extension. Again, not wanting to make any permanent changes during the test phase I put everything inline and used a lag bolt to hold everything down.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204257&d=1726601967

All in all it worked really well. I could potentially play with the spring a bit but I think it works as is.



https://youtu.be/OMoDc1mowCk?si=0gm2KRfVGCxAvrB4


I am going try Nigel's idea next.

Once I complete my testing and go to install I think I want to move the whole operation to this location. I think I want to run it along the lower bar behind the center section. It's unused space and frees up the transmission tunnel. I will need to figure out a way to relocate or recreate the bracket that holds the cables. I prefer to bolt something in vs welding.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204260&d=1726605089

As an aside I also installed the gas tank :)

The only interesting thing about that as I managed to use the bolts that came with the kit by using channel locks to hold the tabs together on the drivers side strap. My in tank pump and hanger is a Quantum Fuel unit. 3/8 lines and 6an fittings with a 340LPH pump. This is only interesting because it's less expensive than other options at about $180

[Its Bruce]

I used something like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007309008103.html?spm=a2g0n.productlist.0.0.47 30be4d4Cd0lj&browser_id=64ce7757736f4635a7ac3e02a1b6fd9c&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=kxxhxnzckcablqms19204f9e5851511d71c36b15 be&gclid=&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21GBP%213.48%213.48%21%21%2131.55% 2131.55%21%402103854617266603464022552e6c7f%211200 0040189435669%21sea%21UK%210%21ABX&isseo=y&algo_pvid=f3b78beb-7248-41f3-a57e-b295129e7cdf

And it allows a single touch lock/unlock of the parking brake with a simple (on)-off-(on) rocker switch.

[smccoy]

Looking good! Do you have a source / part number for that spring? I'm using the same actuator and will be doing the same testing shortly.

[JohnK]

I'm pretty sure that E-Stopp also uses a current sensing relay to control cable tension/travel. From their FAQ:

Q: How many inches of travel does the E-Stopp have?​
A: About 2 inches. Most systems only need about 1. The motor stops itself once it reaches 600 pounds of resistance.

[Blitzboy54]

I used something like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007309008103.html?spm=a2g0n.productlist.0.0.47 30be4d4Cd0lj&browser_id=64ce7757736f4635a7ac3e02a1b6fd9c&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=kxxhxnzckcablqms19204f9e5851511d71c36b15 be&gclid=&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21GBP%213.48%213.48%21%21%2131.55% 2131.55%21%402103854617266603464022552e6c7f%211200 0040189435669%21sea%21UK%210%21ABX&isseo=y&algo_pvid=f3b78beb-7248-41f3-a57e-b295129e7cdf

And it allows a single touch lock/unlock of the parking brake with a simple (on)-off-(on) rocker switch.

I ordered one from Amazon and will test this weekend. Thank you for showing me that. I have some concern if tucked into a tight space behind the dash the wire feedthrough style might have some interference.


I'm pretty sure that E-Stopp also uses a current sensing relay to control cable tension/travel. From their FAQ:

Q: How many inches of travel does the E-Stopp have?​
A: About 2 inches. Most systems only need about 1. The motor stops itself once it reaches 600 pounds of resistance.

That makes sense, thanks. I guess with this arrangement if you wanted you could use a stronger longer throw actuator as long as the relay worked it would matter.

John, how is the car treating you? She is really a beautiful ride. I love the black contrast against the chrome and silver. I'll bet you get a lot of attention.

[Blitzboy54]

Looking good! Do you have a source / part number for that spring? I'm using the same actuator and will be doing the same testing shortly.

Yes sir, I think if I go with a spring I will use a closed loop version of this, but this is the one I used.

https://www.mcmaster.com/5667N404/

[JohnK]

John, how is the car treating you? She is really a beautiful ride. I love the black contrast against the chrome and silver. I'll bet you get a lot of attention.

Thanks Jesse! I appreciate it. Yes, like all of our cars, she draws a lot of attention. I'm loving what you're doing with this build so far.

[460.465USMC]

Finally catching up on Build Deux. First of all, congrats on delivery and all the great progress so far. The C8 orange was one of my top three color choices if I would have painted my Roadster (now sold). I'm a sucker for orange. Love it.

What a bummer on the first two motors. So glad the sellers made it right. Your Gen 2 will give you more than enough power to blow your hair back (IMHO). You will love how it likes to rev high. And the power band...just a blast to experience! My Gen 3 really kicked in at ~4K RPM and higher.

Regarding your earlier IRS torque question (100 lb ft v. 129 lb ft), I torqued both mine (Roadster and Coupe) to 100 lb ft. Back on my Roadster build, I had the same question about the torque discrepancy in the build manual, so I emailed F5. Dan G. wrote back with "100 lb ft is fine". FWIW.

Subscribed and looking forward to following along. Just like our first Roadster builds, I suspect your build will zoom right past me. Enjoy!

[Blitzboy54]

Finally catching up on Build Deux. First of all, congrats on delivery and all the great progress so far. The C8 orange was one of my top three color choices if I would have painted my Roadster (now sold). I'm a sucker for orange. Love it.

What a bummer on the first two motors. So glad the sellers made it right. Your Gen 2 will give you more than enough power to blow your hair back (IMHO). You will love how it likes to rev high. And the power band...just a blast to experience! My Gen 3 really kicked in at ~4K RPM and higher.

Regarding your earlier IRS torque question (100 lb ft v. 129 lb ft), I torqued both mine (Roadster and Coupe) to 100 lb ft. Back on my Roadster build, I had the same question about the torque discrepancy in the build manual, so I emailed F5. Dan G. wrote back with "100 lb ft is fine". FWIW.

Subscribed and looking forward to following along. Just like our first Roadster builds, I suspect your build will zoom right past me. Enjoy!

It’s always great to hear from you Chris. I have been following your Coupe. I really appreciate your input on the center section torque and I’m really excited about the engine. Had I known factory re manufactured engines were a thing I would have started there. I couldn’t t find a Gen 3 and then started looking used.

Also YOU SOLD IT!?!?! Did you get what you were hoping? Interesting strategy to list it pre paint. That could be an asset or a liability.

[Blitzboy54]

A few upgrade parts arrived.

First is the Ford gas tank filler seal. For those that don't know the grommet that comes with the kit that seals the filler neck to the gas tank is not OEM. FFR uses a Dorman part. There is a history of those leaking. I ordered the Ford part at my local dealer and I had it in a day. It was $32. Cheap insurance. Ford PN FZZZ9072DA

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204384&d=1726954634

Next is the brakes. Wilwood uses what they call BP-10 as their standard brake pad. Regardless if you order from them or FFR this is what will come with them unless you tell them otherwise. I found them to be ok, but just ok. Some may disagree but I want my brakes to stop as aggressively and radically as my car accelerates. I did a lot of motorcycle track days in my 20's and 30's. My best times were all on lightweight bikes with huge brakes vs heavy fire breathers. I upgraded my fronts to BP-20's on my first build in the front. These are the most aggressive "street pad" Wilwood offers (everything else is a race pad). It made a significant difference. This build I want freakish stopping power so I am putting BP-20's on all four corners. They are not cheap but worth it IMO

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204381&d=1726954577

The real exciting news is I got my panels back from powder coat. They cam out really nice. It's a metallic charcoal. I am going to use black rivets and I think it creates a cool look. The best part is I now have my color scheme worked out and it is all represented in my engine bay. Interesting twist is I was originally going to PC all the engine panels black again. I dropped them off with that as my order. The next morning I changed my mind to the charcoal. I already did the driver footbox. I plan to keep it black for now. I have some design ideas that I think will look really cool, but there is a scenario where I pull it back off and re do it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204383&d=1726954634

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204382&d=1726954634

Now that my F panels are in I was able to finish the front suspension. This should have been completely drama free but I discovered one of the downsides of having done this before is getting a little too comfortable. I make sure to keep the manual open and reference it. I got to the spindles and stopped reading at "DSS is the drivers side spindle". The rest of that sentence was for the hotrod. The roadster goes the other way. So I installed it on the drivers side before realizing it wasn't right. So I had to take it back out and fix it. I had to use a bearing puller to get it to pop off the lower control arm. Those are tapered. DOH

Any rate they are in and look good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204378&d=1726954577

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204377&d=1726954577

[Blitzboy54]

My wheels arrived this week as well. This is by far the biggest "risk” for me. I've given it a ton of thought and one of the things that I have always loved about the old school builds is the 15 inch wheels with the big balloon tires. I like the way the tires fill the wheel well and even push passed to stick out. That's where I started. I don't want 15 inch wheels and I am nearly positive those big walled tires don't handle as well as some other options. So how do I make an 18" wheel give me that old school aggressive stance? Well by going wider. I am going with 9.5 in the front and 11 in the back with very aggressive offsets. the car will have a wide stance.

Something like this

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204388&d=1726954765

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204387&d=1726954765

I set them up and they clear by plenty and look really sharp. Because the car will be orange I felt that black was a better caliper fit. Truth be told I contacted Wilwood about ordering brakes from them instead but going with orange calipers. They would do it but it would have been close to $3500 upgrade so I felt like it would be better to spend that money elsewhere.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204386&d=1726954634

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204399&d=1726959400

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204398&d=1726959292

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204379&d=1726954577

Now the good news is if this really ends up not working I can back out by changing the wheels as long as I keep 9.5's up front I can move the tires over. I am definitely on my way.

[460.465USMC]

I like your wheel choice. Right on! I'm seeing we have similar tastes: C8 orange and the wheels. Nice. I made a note of the BP-20 pad option. (I was a bit underwhelmed with my Roadster braking using Wilwood Dynapro with stock pads. I may eventually do the same, but first want to see how the Coupe stops. I'm running the Wilwood six piston Superlites up front this time around, so a bit more surface area for braking grab).

[GoDadGo]

Bravo Mr. Blitz, Bravo!
..Love Those Wheels!

[UpstateCobraGuy]

Great choice of wheels!

Keep up the progress :cool:

[Blitzboy54]

Passenger cockpit aluminum

I was a little smarter this time around in so much as I didn't powder coat everything, There is certainly nothing wrong with doing all of it but if you need to budget a good place to start is only coat the panels that can be seen. So that's what I am doing this time around. I am simply running through the manual in order at this point while I wait for a few parts for my parking break and safety loop.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204524&d=1727450879

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204525&d=1727450879

I trimmed the parking brake bracket where marked and started working on the floor.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204523&d=1727450879

After laying down the rest of the floor I created a patch for the brake hole then realized I made a mistake

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204522&d=1727450879

The upholstery will look goofy with a bulge from the patch. Instead of trying to make the rest of the tunnel thicker to match I reversed the plate. It will be much easier to fill in the gap this way.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204537&d=1727485715

I also created a little patch to fill in the hole in the cutout in the front of the frame. There will be a small weep hole in the bottom of the panel for water drainage but I don't like being exposed to the engine bay.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204536&d=1727485715

The passenger side aluminum is basically done for now.

[Blitzboy54]

Driver cockpit aluminum

Moved over to the drivers side. I have to say that I forgot how much drilling there is in this stage. When I said I enjoyed building my last car as much as driving it, turns out I didn't mean this part. lol

It's fine but not fun. I also have few spots with marginal fitment issues. I am going to address those as I go. One of the things I learned form last time is if you're going to put an insulation mat in your car you should do the drivers foot box as you go. It has weird angles and a lot of interference. If you do it early it's a lot easier.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204557&d=1727557464

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204558&d=1727557464

This gap in particular. I don't remember anything that big. I test fit the top of the foot box and it fits decently. I plan to make a patch


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204575&d=1727566483

Fuel Injectors

I pulled the fuel rail and fuel injectors off of the core. They had 70k miles. No reason to believe they won't work (injectors go high 100k miles all the time) but need to be checked. I found some red caps that came with the engine and they happen to fit over the inlet nicely. I drilled a small hole in one cap and fit the straw from the carb cleaner through it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204555&d=1727557464

Connect a 12v power supply and build pressure with the cleaner.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204556&d=1727557464

It worked well and had the bonus of cleaned them as well as testing. 8x good to go, but will replace the orings with new.


https://youtu.be/8rRe9csdcZI?si=1ZVUtJwK65e4sOzr

[Blitzboy54]

Parking brake - first draft

So this turned out pretty cool. I was happy with the spring honestly, it solves a lot of problems and is reliable. The downside is you will still need to adjust the cable over time (not a real big deal) and you have to hold the switch down until the operation is complete (first world problem). Neither of these things bothered me and I like the mechanical solution, the only reason I didn't stop there was the size of the spring. It's almost 1.5" in diameter. I am concerned that once mounted it will bounce around and clank. That would drive me crazy.

Nigel had the idea of using an amp limiting board as a electrical regulator. It turns out "It's Bruce" had already done it in his build. So while I can say with confidence I thought of the generic actuator on my own, the idea itself was not original and all the wiring here has been taken from another builder.


I ordered this controller https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803152035577.html?spm=a2g0n.productlist.0.0.7b ac43b1X5gtva&browser_id=64ce7757736f4635a7ac3e02a1b6fd9c&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=kxxhxnzckcablqms19214d4a8d29ecb981018c12 e3&gclid=&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21GBP%2110.43%219.39%21%21%2113.45 %2112.11%21%40210307c317269263341416976e31de%21120 00025294047171%21sea%21UK%210%21ABX&algo_pvid=7763f769-0248-4b99-8cdc-7bc818d0cfe2&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt

The wiring is quite simple

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204612&d=1727645139

I tested it where it was in the transmission tunnel and worked as expected. So I moved my operation to the back of the car. Little trick I learned is if you want to remove the parking brake cable from the mount using a zip tie worked to get all the tabs compressed. Easy peasy

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204618&d=1727645269

I needed to replicate the cable mount that is welded to the car. I was not interested in cutting and re welding as everything is powder coated. Also I do not own a welder. lol

I ordered these and it turns out the holes are EXACTLY the right size. This was entirely a happy accident.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B5QZS6WK?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

I routed the drivers side cable inside the rear IRS mount. It rides along the lower mounts and just reaches without being a stretch. The passenger side I made a "service loop"

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204616&d=1727645139

I ordered this clevis from Amazon. The Lokar block is $30 ish from various stores. I found a complete kit that included the complete clevis for $36. I only needed the clevis but now I have some extra stuff I guess.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C4SX71VQ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Had to cut the ends off to make it fit the actuator but this was not an issue.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204617&d=1727645269

All mounted up

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204620&d=1727647939

Then wired up the board to the power supply and started my test.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204621&d=1727647939

My switch is a little more that what the system requires. It is wired to reverse the DC polarity from On to ON. Since this only requires a simple On-Off-On I only used 3 legs. I am going to keep it because it's waterproof and labeled in a way that makes sense for what it is.

It went great, it pulls until the limit is reached and is now a singe touch. The issue is (It's Bruce told me this would happen) is it never reaches the current limit the other way when it releases. The internal limit switch is reached but in order to re engage the brake you have to push the switch twice. Once to clear the relay that stays engaged and then to start pulling again.


https://youtu.be/YO5CRVQgK3c?si=wHx9iskbPVysbjK3

[Blitzboy54]

Parking brake - Final solution


So what I needed to make this work in both directions is hard stop on release. I took some measurements and ended up replicating my pull solution to fix my push problem.

The brackets I ordered came in a 6 pack so I have spares

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204614&d=1727645139

This creates a hard stop that allows it to work as designed both directions. If I need to tighten the brake I simply turn the pot counter clockwise and increase the current limit.


https://youtu.be/RoQyuAvOE8Q?si=UhQAFYGWBZDqmWAd

I will add a physical or magnetic switch when I get to the wiring that will carry another 12v signal that will light the dash. It will either be NO or NC and send 12v to the dash when the brake is engaged. I do not expect this to be expensive.

So a rough tally of what I have in the mod. Prices to not include tax.

Actuator= $40
Clevis = $36
Over current board = $12 (spring was $15 if you went that route)
L brackets = $20
Switch = $8

The various hardware I had laying around from my last build, but if you didn't have it probably another $10 at the hardware store.

R&D costs are sunk so I am not counting that. That is a functional electronic parking brake for under $120. I expect the switch to cost no more than $20.


Not bad.

[PNWTim]

That's pretty clever. Assuming since you patched the hole you will ditch the hand brake altogether?

[Blitzboy54]

That's pretty clever. Assuming since you patched the hole you will ditch the hand brake altogether?

That is correct. I was never happy with the original location. It was either going to be on top or electronic.

[UpstateCobraGuy]

Looking this over...

I feel like a ham handed hack.:o

Great work! :cool:

[egchewy79]

$3400 for orange calipers? you could likely get then re-PC'd locally for much cheaper. a pop of orange under the black rims would look really sharp w/ your color combo.

[Blitzboy54]

$3400 for orange calipers? you could likely get then re-PC'd locally for much cheaper. a pop of orange under the black rims would look really sharp w/ your color combo.

It was a combination of 2 things. The kits themselves are roughly 25% more expensive if you order directly from them. FFR must get a volume discount and passes that on to us. The other is they wanted $575 per caliper for custom coating (unclear if that includes he parking brake). So add all that up and it was about that much.

I agree the orange would really pop. I could get them done locally but I don't think I could keep the logo. Maybe I shouldn't care but oddly enough I do. I will ask around. It would have to be done before I put fluid in them.

[cv2065]

That's awesome! Great out of the box solution. I'm putting mine on top as well, but manual style. Great job!

[Nigel Allen]

Parking brake - Final solution


So what I needed to make this work in both directions is hard stop on release. I took some measurements and ended up replicating my pull solution to fix my push problem.

The brackets I ordered came in a 6 pack so I have spares

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204614&d=1727645139

This creates a hard stop that allows it to work as designed both directions. If I need to tighten the brake I simply turn the pot counter clockwise and increase the current limit.


https://youtu.be/RoQyuAvOE8Q?si=UhQAFYGWBZDqmWAd

I will add a physical or magnetic switch when I get to the wiring that will carry another 12v signal that will light the dash. It will either be NO or NC and send 12v to the dash when the brake is engaged. I do not expect this to be expensive.

So a rough tally of what I have in the mod. Prices to not include tax.

Actuator= $40
Clevis = $36
Over current board = $12 (spring was $15 if you went that route)
L brackets = $20
Switch = $8

The various hardware I had laying around from my last build, but if you didn't have it probably another $10 at the hardware store.

R&D costs are sunk so I am not counting that. That is a functional electronic parking brake for under $120. I expect the switch to cost no more than $20.


Not bad.

Nice work my friend.

Cheers,

Nige.

[Blitzboy54]

That's awesome! Great out of the box solution. I'm putting mine on top as well, but manual style. Great job!


Nice work my friend.

Cheers,

Nige.

Thanks guys, I appreciate it.


Engine intake and Fuel lines


One of the things I have been kicking around is what intake manifold I want to run. The Boss 302 is by far the best looking option on a budget but doesn't perform as well in a non boosted application. I was pretty close to pulling the trigger on a super charger but ultimately I have decided against it for a few reasons. First and foremost is the cost. I can do it for roughly $5k with a torque storm setup. This isn't bad but I am hilariously over budget already. Second is longevity. I do worry that I would wear the engine down over time and then need to pull it early and replace who knows what.

Having said that I want the best performing arrangement possible so I reached out to Lund. They said hands down the best setup for a Gen 2 Coyote is a Gen 3 intake with the IRMC locked out. So this is what I decided to do. Interestingly there are 2 PN's for this manifold. There is the Ford Performance M9424M50C this sells for just under $500.

Then there is the Genuine Ford JR3Z-9424-B. I cannot find a difference between these parts. I found one site that referenced "improved IRMC performacen" on the new PN but with that locked out I can't imagine it would make a difference. Since the Genuine Ford part sells from the dealership for $200 less I went with it.

I like the black look anyhow. I am going with black valve covers so this should help with the look.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204819&d=1728089223

Locked out IRMC

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204820&d=1728089223


On fuel lines last build I used soft rubber and then changed to stainless steel when I upgraded to an in tank pump. I had some left over and tried to straighten it, this is as far as I got before I tapped out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204823&d=1728089372

I just hate the way it looks so I bit the bullet and ordered two 8' pieces from McMaster Carr. I went with a thicker wall at .035. In my mind money well spent

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204822&d=1728089223

[Blitzboy54]

First bends

I borrowed Scott's tube bender. It makes a massive difference starting with a nice straight piece of pipe. Started bending and just slowly worked through it. I completed the hard portion of the return line.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204824&d=1728089439

Installed it came out clean

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204829&d=1728089557

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204826&d=1728089439

Scott gave me some of his leftover fasteners. I used them in some of the more exposed areas. I ran a 6-32 tap into the steel frame and they screw right in for a clean look.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204827&d=1728089439

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204828&d=1728089439

[gbranham]

Hey, I recognize some of those Coyote parts! Glad to see them coming together on your build. Looking great!

Greg

[cv2065]

Lines look great. Well done!

[Blitzboy54]

Hey, I recognize some of those Coyote parts! Glad to see them coming together on your build. Looking great!

Greg

You certainly do! Glad that worked out.

[Blitzboy54]

Supply Line

Got back to bending and measuring and made the supply line.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204960&d=1728253189

I got in all in there nice and tight. I was also able to mount my in line fuel filter on the same support I have the parking break pull.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204957&d=1728253189

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204958&d=1728253189

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204969&d=1728253541

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204959&d=1728253189

[Blitzboy54]

PTFE

As I am doing this I already wish I had done this a little differently. Engine bay space is such a premium with a coyote. I think I should have put the regulator in the wheel well and run a single line to the engine. It's not like the regulator needs any attention once it's set. Anyway it's done now so upward and onward.

Speaking of regulator mine showed up today so I mounted it. I have A LOT going on over on the passenger side of the engine bay with the heater and wipers so I moved it to the left.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205120&d=1728512790

I also started on my PTFE hoses. I like this stuff because A. it's super easy to cut and make fittings and B it's stainless steal wrapped with a layer of nylon over the top of that. Kinda the best of both worlds. I have the back end done (that space is also getting busy with the parking brake). I used a die grinder to cut it and the fittings seem to go together smoothly. Scott gave me some fittings to pressure test my lines. I did and they all seem to hold up fine.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205117&d=1728512790

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205118&d=1728512790

I have a 10 micron filter in line.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205119&d=1728512790

[Blitzboy54]

Back to the cockpit

I took a break from the cockpit aluminum as I needed to do some more powder coating. The rear corner panels are essentially the front of your rear wheel well. While leaving them naked is fine (I realize nobody really sees them) I powder coated mine Stone Black last time and did again.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205121&d=1728512873

I finished up the corners and back of the trans tunnel per the manual. Also what was holding this up was I have a generic drive shaft safety hoop. I was looking for a way to mount it. Between the coyote and the IRS the drive shaft is like 8 inches. I can't find a way to make it work that isn't ridiculous so I decided to bite the bullet and purchase a Metco unit again. Bummer because the one I have was from Summit and cost $23. First world problem

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205122&d=1728512873

I also filled in my patch recess. There will be a layer of foam then leather. I will probably pound the rivets flat as well. Another Paul trick that I picked up of one of his build threads.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205123&d=1728512873

My car computer showed up. Well technically it's a sound system+ but I am not installing a sound system for me it's a car computer. It will support, Bluetooth car play for navigation, backup camera and a full time dash cam for Jabroni management. I drilled out the steering shaft hole on the dash and dry fit the unit with the trans tunnel cover to see if it will work and I think it does. I will obviously build some sort of mount/surround, but it will live under the dash slightly recessed. One of the things I learned from my last car was how often I used navigation. Car shows, meetups, my own day trips. I think it would be great to have my phone charging in the cubby and be able to fully access it's features. I just don't think I want a sound system. I can't imagine I would use it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205124&d=1728512873

[danmas]

What car computer did you get? I will do much the same but haven’t decided on which one yet…

[Namrups]

Glad to see my tools get a workout! Better than collecting dust on the bench!;)

[Blitzboy54]

What car computer did you get? I will do much the same but haven’t decided on which one yet…

I am using this. It is not particularly expensive. I really don't think it needs to be but it will be installed in such a way that it will be upgradable later if need be.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CN94Z1ZM?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

[460.465USMC]

Having said that I want the best performing arrangement possible so I reached out to Lund. They said hands down the best setup for a Gen 2 Coyote is a Gen 3 intake with the IRMC locked out. So this is what I decided to do. Interestingly there are 2 PN's for this manifold. There is the Ford Performance M9424M50C this sells for just under $500.

Then there is the Genuine Ford JR3Z-9424-B. I cannot find a difference between these parts. I found one site that referenced "improved IRMC performacen" on the new PN but with that locked out I can't imagine it would make a difference. Since the Genuine Ford part sells from the dealership for $200 less I went with it.

I like the black look anyhow. I am going with black valve covers so this should help with the look.

Great solution, Jesse! Nice. If you can use them, I have a set of new Gen 1 valve covers you are welcome to (free).



It makes a massive difference starting with a nice straight piece of pipe. Started bending and just slowly worked through it. I completed the hard portion of the return line.


Boy, those SS hard lines just look tight. Hard to beat the function and asthetics to boot. Great work, sir!

[Blitzboy54]

Great solution, Jesse! Nice. If you can use them, I have a set of new Gen 1 valve covers you are welcome to (free).

That's really nice Chris, Thank you. I checked it out and they are compatible. Ford makes a Gen1-2 cover thats all black I was planning to use. I assume yours are grey? I could paint them though. Would be pretty easy to do. I will DM you.

Really appreciate it!

[Blitzboy54]

Finishing up the Fuel lines

My fittings came in and I finished the fuel lines (sort of). As you can see I made the rest of the PTFE lines and connected everything.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205227&d=1728835220

It was immediately obvious to me this sits too high. Between the heater and the wiring harness I need to make some adjustments. I am now even more annoyed at myself for not running a single fuel line and keeping the regulator in the back. Maybe that is something I can add to the list for the 3rd one :)

Short and easy fix is the cut down the fuel lines and connect them lower. So I did some math and made the cuts. Rough mock up looks like it will fix everything. There is a small chance I will need to redo the supply line to make it touch longer but not the end of the world if I do. The compression fitting for those of you that don't know are perminent. So I ordered 2 more and will reconnect everything later this week.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205226&d=1728835220

So I moved on to the brakes.

First I installed the master cylinders. Because I went with a hydraulic clutch FFR sent a mount. I made one last time. Nice little piece that makes this part easy. Also connected the hoses to the master cylinders. I know most folks go with a 3 reservoir system but I did not. I am comfortable having both brakes on one.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205231&d=1728836019

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205209&d=1728783965

One last thing. This might not be for everyone but there were times when my car was done that I started experimenting with the bias and brake pads. I got frustrated because I couldn't remember which MC went to the front/back. I went back through my photos but it just wasn't clear. I ended up dropping my fuse box and physically tracing it out. I have routed my lines much differently this time so probably not an issue but I did this anyhow.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205232&d=1728836149

[Blitzboy54]

Brake routing

For the fronts I did not re invent the wheel. This is essentially how I ran them last time and they worked greats so I kinda did the same thing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205210&d=1728783965

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205211&d=1728783965

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205213&d=1728784020

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205235&d=1728838210

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205219&d=1728784073

[Blitzboy54]

Brake routing cont

The rears are a different kettle of fish. I had a straight axle last time and didn't love the way I routed it. It was fine but not what I wanted. The manual has you run the rear out of the front of the foot box, while this will work and nobody will see it once the body is one I just don't like it. I wanted to copy Chris and run it down the inside of the foot box however the coyote pedal takes up way to much room and you would need to make some goofy bends. So I did this instead by running in along the front on the inside. That space isn't really used. I will put the carpet behind it before I put the sides in.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205215&d=1728784020

I fit a grommet in the hole which is nice. Basically seals it up but not water tight. Perfect drain should the bad thing happen.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205229&d=1728835756

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205228&d=1728835756

One thing that drove me nuts was no matter how many times I riveted these tabs they moved around. It's ok because they are basically static BUT I was worried they would rattle over time. This would drive me crazy so I used machine screws.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205234&d=1728836728

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205217&d=1728784073

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205218&d=1728784073


I was thinking about laying out the wiring harness as that is next but I have been going a little hard lately and think it's time for a break. Also want to charge and bleed the brakes before I put the harness in. Even with everything open the harness getting in the way of stuff so better to find and repair any leaks first.

[Namrups]

Great documentation Jessie!

[John Ibele]

Wow, Jesse, way to make hay after getting the kit! You're moving right along! And while your first build was something to be proud of, I can see how the game gets upped on a second build. Really nice build going. The 3/8" spaghetti noodle AutoZone line ... yep, I remember that part. Good choice moving away from that. The rear brake lines ... yep, I kept them inside the DS footbox as well, but didn't have the challenge of the Coyote go-pedal. Might seem a bit wonky ... but only to you. Just as functional and reliable, and no one else will see it. Good choice.

Parking brake - great job. Look at that guy stick to a budget (so he can blow it in other places)! Seriously, I'd suggest you do a separate post in the main roadster forum once you've got everything dialed in. Photos, bill of materials, etc. It'll get copied widely, I'll bet.

Looks like you're having a blast. Thanks for sharing in another build thread!

[Fman]

Nice work Jesse, I am really curious how the e-brake location will work. Will that be accessible for adjustment once the body is on?

[Blitzboy54]

Wow, Jesse, way to make hay after getting the kit! You're moving right along! And while your first build was something to be proud of, I can see how the game gets upped on a second build. Really nice build going. The 3/8" spaghetti noodle AutoZone line ... yep, I remember that part. Good choice moving away from that. The rear brake lines ... yep, I kept them inside the DS footbox as well, but didn't have the challenge of the Coyote go-pedal. Might seem a bit wonky ... but only to you. Just as functional and reliable, and no one else will see it. Good choice.

Parking brake - great job. Look at that guy stick to a budget (so he can blow it in other places)! Seriously, I'd suggest you do a separate post in the main roadster forum once you've got everything dialed in. Photos, bill of materials, etc. It'll get copied widely, I'll bet.

Looks like you're having a blast. Thanks for sharing in another build thread!

Really nice of you to say. Thanks John.

You are at the hardest part of any build, picking the color, I have unburdened myself by knowing up front. Second time has been a breeze. lol


Nice work Jesse, I am really curious how the e-brake location will work. Will that be accessible for adjustment once the body is on?

Travis, the best part of this system is theoretically at least is the tension is set by the current sensor in the board. It will pull to the same tension regardless of how long it takes to get there. Theoretically, it is self adjusting. As the cable stretches it will adjust on it's own.

I have hedged my bets with a spare actuator and board just in case. If the car in on jacks I should be able to reach up there and change whatever I needed to. Hopefully nothing.

[PNWTim]

Great write ups so far and you're steaming right along. I like the hex head screws in the bracket. I think I will follow this as I like the idea of being able to move/remove bracketing without having to drill out rivets. A good compromise that is probably just one step down from welding.

[dbo_texas]

Just found your build thread and enjoying a lot of the creativity here, especially on the electric parking brake. I moved mine to the top of the tunnel like you originally mocked up. I actually like the look of the FFR handle.

One thing from your pedal box to check --> grab the Coyote DBW (drive by wire) plug that plugs into the pedal and check if you can actually plug it in. On my pedal box, because of the final position of the pedal I wasn't able to get it plugged in and had to hack away at the pedal box metal to make a clearance notch for the cable. Easier to do now vs. AFTER you run all your harnesses into there like I did. Not sure if this is typically required or not, but it's the only way I could get my DBW plug installed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205402&d=1729201002

Also when you get to the driveshaft safety loop, check out what I did (post #172 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-137)&p=549740&viewfull=1#post549740) and post #173 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-137)&p=552634&viewfull=1#post552634)). You may not need to modify it like I did (this was due to modifications on the transmission A-frame I had to make for my T56).

[Blitzboy54]

Just found your build thread and enjoying a lot of the creativity here, especially on the electric parking brake. I moved mine to the top of the tunnel like you originally mocked up. I actually like the look of the FFR handle.

One thing from your pedal box to check --> grab the Coyote DBW (drive by wire) plug that plugs into the pedal and check if you can actually plug it in. On my pedal box, because of the final position of the pedal I wasn't able to get it plugged in and had to hack away at the pedal box metal to make a clearance notch for the cable. Easier to do now vs. AFTER you run all your harnesses into there like I did. Not sure if this is typically required or not, but it's the only way I could get my DBW plug installed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205402&d=1729201002

Also when you get to the driveshaft safety loop, check out what I did (post #172 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-137)&p=549740&viewfull=1#post549740) and post #173 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-137)&p=552634&viewfull=1#post552634)). You may not need to modify it like I did (this was due to modifications on the transmission A-frame I had to make for my T56).


These are great tips. I will keep an eye out on the loop when I get there. I just happened to plug the pedal in this evening and it cleared.

Better lucky than good. :)

[Blitzboy54]

Correcting Course


Last time I bled the brakes I used a friends pressure bleeder. This really worked well and is in my opinion the way to go. I say that because I purchased a vacuum bleeder. I did not like it. There is a couple reasons. First is it is hard to get a good vacuum seal. Even if you do it is nearly impossible to determine if you have pulled all the air out. The vacuum pulls air through the bleed valve so it looks like your endlessly bleeding the brakes. I ended up just pulling on each caliper for a while then got my daughter to help me finish it the old fashioned way. I am pleased to report no leaks were found and we appear to be fully bled and in business

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205461&d=1729396348

Say it with me, "a coyote is not an SBF".


This wasn't necessarily a case of I have done this before so I moved too quickly but it kind of is. I read the coyote instructions and assumed that their recommendation to put the PCM on the footbox was a good one. When I finally got around to laying things out I realized this was not in fact a good idea. First it puts a funny bend in the harness and it doesn't lay it out in a way that is ideal for getting through the firewall. Lastly I am installing a heater so that really made it a no go. Of course I had already mounted the regulator but fortunately I was able to re use one of the holes for the PCM. I took a step back and re mocked everything up.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205459&d=1729396348

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205460&d=1729396348

Now it was time to start laying out all the spaghetti and rough the wiring harness in. I also got my Kleiner mod up and running.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205463&d=1729396456

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205464&d=1729396456

[Blitzboy54]

Wiring

I took the opportunity this time to thin the herd a bit. The hot rod harness was the first to go.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205475&d=1729399507

I also got rid of the warning light. I put a weather pack connection on the pig tails and will run a proper check engine light in the dash.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205466&d=1729396456

I mounted the OBD II port and the inertia switch.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205469&d=1729396572

So many grounds. There are 5 grounds in the coyote control pack harness. 3 chassis grounds, 1 direct battery ground and the 16 pin harness has a ground. This is a well grounded operation. Indecently the wire to the coyote pedal and the clutch safety switch cleared without any issue in my case.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205468&d=1729396572

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205472&d=1729396572

I have the firewall now set and mounted the computer. The coyote and RF harness are in place, the fuse box is in and I have sketched out my wiring plan. It's a good start. I will be doing this for a while. I actually kind of love this part. The only thing left up in the air is a cutoff switch. I am going with a push button RFID start system. I feel like I want to be able to kill power at the same time I can't find a place to put it that I like. I think if it happens it will be in the engine bay. If I can't find a way to make that work I will not do it. I am not committed enough to the idea to force it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205471&d=1729396572

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205470&d=1729396572

[PNWTim]

It's interesting about vacuum bleeding. I owned a Mityvac for a few years and thought it was going to be perfect for bleeding the brakes on my last build. I squeezed the trigger about 67 thousand times over two days and still had a spongey pedal. Went and got my neighbor, pumped the pedal the old fashioned way and voila! brakes bled and pedal firm. I am sure there are other applications for that tool but I sold it on ebay the following week. I am looking forward to pressure bleeding the brakes on my Daytona as I have not tried that but from all reports, seems like the way to go.

[Mike.Bray]

I squeezed the trigger about 67 thousand times over two days

That's not enough squeezes....

I had a time getting all of the air out of my Wilwood brakes even with a pressure bleeder. What i found worked best is to let the system gravity bleed for a day and using these (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CMDP44?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1). Obviously keeping an eye on the fluid level in the reservoirs. That got me 95% there and pressure bleeding finished it off, nice firm pedal now.

[Blitzboy54]

It's interesting about vacuum bleeding. I owned a Mityvac for a few years and thought it was going to be perfect for bleeding the brakes on my last build. I squeezed the trigger about 67 thousand times over two days and still had a spongey pedal. Went and got my neighbor, pumped the pedal the old fashioned way and voila! brakes bled and pedal firm. I am sure there are other applications for that tool but I sold it on ebay the following week. I am looking forward to pressure bleeding the brakes on my Daytona as I have not tried that but from all reports, seems like the way to go.

Mine uses the compressor to create venturi vacuum. It was a foamy mess.

[OB6]

I'm a big fan of gravity bleeding. Much better results for me than pressure or vacuum on any car I've done brakes.

[Blitzboy54]

As I work my way through the wiring I have tried to keep working in sections. I broke it down by RF harness, coyote harness, coyote/RF merge, power wiring, trans tunnel/rear end, bluetooth/driving cameras and the dash. So I continue to knock down the list and have moved onto the merge.

I wired in the LED trailer converter this went in without issue. If anyone is interested someone in this forum created this wiring diagram. I used it on my last build and used it again for this one. I didn't create it but it is super helpful so thank you to whoever I took this from.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205543&d=1729553645

I also connected the fuel pump per the FFR instructions along with the blue starter wire and the ignition relay trigger to the EFI/Crank wires. I cut back the rest and capped with heat shrink.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205539&d=1729552173

I tightened up the rest of the harness and cleaned up the foot box.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205538&d=1729552173

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205533&d=1729552113

[Blitzboy54]

Heater update

Before I can finish laying out the power wire I need to make sure the firewall is set. This means finishing mocking up the heater. When I left it it was trimmed down but needed some refinement. First I cut it with a hand saw. This would have worked much better with a band or table saw. Making it plane is key. I brought it to a buddys house and cleaned up the cut. Then I purchased rubber trim to seal the edge.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205536&d=1729552113

I purchased some generic L brackets and mocked it up

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205534&d=1729552113

Installed rivnuts in the firewall and bolted it on

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205535&d=1729552113

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205537&d=1729552113

I seals up pretty well. I plan to put a thin layer of weather seal between the rubber and the firewall. I though about using silicone but with all the heat cycles I think seal is the way to go. I will also trim down the brackets to clean them up.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205542&d=1729552173

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205541&d=1729552173

[JMD]

Clean install. I like the use of rivnuts and that the heater hoses are routed along the outside of the engine bay. I wasn't crazy about where mine had to go with the FFR supplied heater.

[Blitzboy54]

Clean install. I like the use of rivnuts and that the heater hoses are routed along the outside of the engine bay. I wasn't crazy about where mine had to go with the FFR supplied heater.

Thanks man, I feel the same, this unit as designed had them on the inside. I simply rotated it. It works better for this layout that way.

I’ve become a big fan of rivnuts, just cleaner. I mounted the wipers the same way. I’ll use a little blue lock tight when it’s time to permanently mount stuff

[jengum]

What is the function of the 5-4 wire converter? Are you using different tail light assemblies than what was furnished from the complete kit or is there a mismatch in the RF wiring harness?

[Blitzboy54]

What is the function of the 5-4 wire converter? Are you using different tail light assemblies than what was furnished from the complete kit or is there a mismatch in the RF wiring harness?

It’s an LED converter. The square tail lights that come with the kit are LED’s. You have to wire in the converter in-line. The kit comes now with the tail lights, the converter and the correct flasher relays. Its’s connected in line wire for wire accept the purple brake light wire. That is connected to the input side (red) but not the output. Everything else is connected the same to either side. It can be mounted behind the dash or at the back of the car. If you do it back there and had a problem you would have to drop the fuel tank to replace it. That’s why I put it where I did. There are instructions on the build manual but like most things it’s explained better on the forum.

[Blitzboy54]

Power Wiring

I've been thinking about using a cut off switch. I don't have a good place in the cockpit. Everywhere I considered I either don't like or the space is otherwise spoke for. I mentioned if I could find a good place in the engine bay I would do it but it had to work. My thinking on the switch is simply this. If my push button start has a glitch and the engine won't shut off a switch makes it easy. Also, it's nice if we go to lunch and leave the car or at a show I can pull the key and not worry about it.

I was puttering around the garage and remembered I had this. The bracket for mounting the PCM. I cut the FFR logo out and widened it. I put a couple holes with grommets as a wire pass through and got to work.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205770&d=1729980729

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205769&d=1729980729

I mounted it to the front of the footbox. I also put a busbar on top. this is where I attached the ignition wires from the RF harness and tied them to the starter power on the right side of the switch.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205771&d=1729980729

On the other side of the switch I put the battery power and tied it to the PCM. Ala the same way Paul and any number of other builders wired their coyotes. As Paul pointed out in his anniversary build the Ford Performance instructions recommend keeping the PCM on battery power.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205778&d=1729980824

I ran the battery wire along the 4 inch rail right next to the coyote battery ground.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205794&d=1729983428

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205772&d=1729980729

I tapped a separate lug for the engine ground. It's pretty busy on that side of the car so I will ground the engine drivers side

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205773&d=1729980729

[Blitzboy54]

Heater and Wiper Motor

After mocking up the heater I wanted a good way to really seal it to the firewall. One thing I didn't consider when I came up with this plan is if the firewall is flat. The frame is not perfect and unless you consider this when your installing your firewall and shim it on the sides it creates a subtle bow. Hmm, what to do. It's not bad but by using a high powered flashlight I could see light leaking through. I marked the outside of the heater with it mounted and then installed some 1/2 x 1/4 adhesive backed window seal

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205780&d=1729980824

This ended up working really well. It creates a perfect seal and covers for any variation in the surface. I then filled in the center with insulation mat. I cut out the holes for the vents, trimmed the brackets and re installed. It all worked so well I forgot to take a picture. If for any reason I have to remove the heater again I take one..... Sorry

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205779&d=1729980824

I also used rivnuts to mount my wiper motor. It's now a little tight but everything fits pretty well. I am pleased with it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205781&d=1729980824

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205782&d=1729980854

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205785&d=1729980854

This is where everything is at as I move to the trans tunnel and rear end.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205793&d=1729983428

***Update***

After looking at these pictures I realize I hated the "wow" that was on the right side under the switch. It looked sloppy so I reversed the hose clamps. Now it's a lot cleaner.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205795&d=1729988591

[PNWTim]

Looks good. There's a lot going on in that engine compartment! I am following your build closely as your combination of items is going to be very similar to my coupe build. Just got an email that mine will be ready on 11/17 - 10 days early! Keep up the good work.

[Namrups]

Power Wiring

I've been thinking about using a cut off switch. I don't have a good place in the cockpit. Everywhere I considered I either don't like or the space is otherwise spoke for. I mentioned if I could find a good place in the engine bay I would do it but it had to work. My thinking on the switch is simply this. If my push button start has a glitch and the engine won't shut off a switch makes it easy. Also, it's nice if we go to lunch and leave the car or at a show I can pull the key and not worry about it.

I was puttering around the garage and remembered I had this. The bracket for mounting the PCM. I cut the FFR logo out and widened it. I put a couple holes with grommets as a wire pass through and got to work.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205770&d=1729980729

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205769&d=1729980729

I mounted it to the front of the footbox. I also put a busbar on top. this is where I attached the ignition wires from the RF harness and tied them to the starter power on the right side of the switch.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205771&d=1729980729

On the other side of the switch I put the battery power and tied it to the PCM. Ala the same way Paul and any number of other builders wired their coyotes. As Paul pointed out in his anniversary build the Ford Performance instructions recommend keeping the PCM on battery power.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205778&d=1729980824

I ran the battery wire along the 4 inch rail right next to the coyote battery ground.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205794&d=1729983428

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205772&d=1729980729

I tapped a separate lug for the engine ground. It's pretty busy on that side of the car so I will ground the engine drivers side

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205773&d=1729980729

Nice clean install! My only concern is if your in an accident and are trapped in the car you wont be able to use the cutoff because it's not within arms reach.

[Blitzboy54]

Looks good. There's a lot going on in that engine compartment! I am following your build closely as your combination of items is going to be very similar to my coupe build. Just got an email that mine will be ready on 11/17 - 10 days early! Keep up the good work.

That’s awesome. Delivery day is the best. If you’re looking for a build thread to follow Namrumps here has a really detailed one. Your setup will be more friendly for some of these, I also don’t know that I have ever seen a glovebox in a coupe.


Nice clean install! My only concern is if your in an accident and are trapped in the car you wont be able to use the cutoff because it's not within arms reach.

I hear ya, the other option was not to have one at all. I’m not really using it as an emergency shutoff so much as a security tool. I didn’t have one on my last build. I would hope if I was in an accident the inertia switch would shut it down.

Great now I’m worried I’m going to wreck :)

[Namrups]

That’s awesome. Delivery day is the best. If you’re looking for a build thread to follow Namrumps here has a really detailed one. Your setup will be more friendly for some of these, I also don’t know that I have ever seen a glovebox in a coupe.



I hear ya, the other option was not to have one at all. I’m not really using it as an emergency shutoff so much as a security tool. I didn’t have one on my last build. I would hope if I was in an accident the inertia switch would shut it down.

Great now I’m worried I’m going to wreck :)

Didn't mean to worry you!! :(

[Blitzboy54]

Whoa!! I wonder who these are for?

https://www.facebook.com/share/p/Sorp65U5DZPJ1WaE/?mibextid=WC7FNe

[danmas]

Very nice!

[Jeff Kleiner]

That #4 positive cable is a lot of wire being exposed to a lot of heat. Resistance increases with length and heat. Good thing Coyotes start pretty easily...

Jeff

[Blitzboy54]

That #4 positive cable is a lot of wire being exposed to a lot of heat. Resistance increases with length and heat. Good thing Coyotes start pretty easily...

Jeff

I’ve been thinking about that. I’m considering a heat shield in front of the footbox.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I’ve been thinking about that. I’m considering a heat shield in front of the footbox.

Here's looking down at the front corner of the footbox:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205906&d=1730304576

If it were mine I wouldn't shield it...I'd move it. But it's not mine.

Jeff

[Blitzboy54]

Here's looking down at the front corner of the footbox:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205906&d=1730304576

If it were mine I wouldn't shield it...I'd move it. But it's not mine.

Jeff

Well **** pickles.

I think it's safe to say I made my first mistake. I honestly didn't fully consider the heat issue until it was nearly done. By then I was dazzled by the cleverness of my design. I think I am going to scrap the switch all together. I can re rout the battery run up to the busbar and then tie the other 2 into it there as well. Looks like I should order 4 gauge wire in red.

Bummer

I appreciate you looking out Jeff.

[Blitzboy54]

Part Deux

I had to take another bite at the power wiring apple. It turns out a cutoff switch was a bridge too far for the space. No real harm done other than a blow to the ego. I very much appreciate Jeff and all the others on the board that look out for trip ups like this. I would much rather fix it now than try this when everything is in the engine bay. So with that I dusted myself off and made things a bit simpler. Now everything is tied together at the bus bar. The only thing I am going to wait on is the starter wire. I will trim the end an put a lug on it once the engine is in place I will have plenty of access.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205935&d=1730475875

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205936&d=1730476052

I completed the parking brake by adding a 12v NO proximity sensor and made a flag with a piece of steel. You can see it operate here. The brake switch itself will be wired by battery power so it will always work. The sensor will be powered by the ACC power so it will only light the dash when the car is on.


https://youtu.be/lX8HF20NIIQ?si=PVa-YoYZWgvuty-S

I also completed my harness wiring. In addition to the RF harness I added another leg with wire for the backup lights, Backup Camera, Parking brake, Parking brake sensor. I also ran wiring in the front harness to incorporate the dash cam. I don't have a good spot to put it in the actual cockpit so I will be hidden in the brake duct.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205939&d=1730476052

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205938&d=1730476052

Lastly I have taken a run at the dash layout. This is a competition style with 5 inch Tach/Speedo along with the standard 5 gauges plus a clock. The indicator cluster will be left, right, high beam, Parking brake and check engine light. I am still identifying locations for all the switches. I am not yet married to what gauge goes where just yet but this is close.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205937&d=1730476052

[Jeff Kleiner]

Put the steering wheel on and drop a seat in then sit down to see what the visibility is like.

Jeff

[Blitzboy54]

Put the steering wheel on and drop a seat in then sit down to see what the visibility is like.

Jeff




For sure. My hub is out with Frank getting reworked for a turn signal. I put the steering wheel approximately where it will go and sat on some stuff. This is all to say I’m not going to cut anything until I get my hub back and my seats delivered. Which by the way are done and currently in route.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205963&d=1730517632

[Blitzboy54]

2" Roll bars

I took a break from wiring and tackled some of the beefier stuff. Namely the 2 inch roll bars. I had some drama earlier in the build as all the bars that FFR sent were powder coated but would show up pretty damaged. It also turns out the 2 inch bars don't fit together as gracefully as the 1.5 inch bars do. Ultimately I asked FFR for an un coated set. This in my opinion is the only way to go. you have to really grind and bang on these so I can't see how I would have kept them looking new while I was doing all that.

In order to make them fit I purchased a steel tube 1.75 OD x 1.25 ID. This has a wall thickness of .250. It is really meaty. I cut them into four 3 inch pieces and two 4 inch pieces to make sleeves for the bigger bars. This is where the real work started. The sleeves fit over the roll bar studs without any issue at all. The 2" tubes are tight. Really tight even with itself. The back tube does not fit over the front roll bar at all. I purchased a Burr and worked all the sleeves and the inside of all the roll bar tubes. I also cleaned up the stud that comes out of the roll bar so the back tube can fit over.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206245&d=1731191246

The roll bars themselves were a little tight so I used a couple of ratchet straps and I have a couple of telephone poles outside that are only a couple feet apart. I strapped one leg to one and put the other strap around the other to pry the bars apart a little. I got just enough so they both fit over the sleeves now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206246&d=1731191246

The alignment between the back tube and the roll bar isn't perfect. I can get them together but it requires a rubber mallet and I have to lever the botttom of the back tube up a bit. I am ok with all of this but I do end up with a little bit of a gap in the back. The front side of this connection is perfectly flush. Question for the experts is should I grind the front away to make it flush all the way around or is their a better way?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206243&d=1731191246

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206242&d=1731191246

All in all they look great. I really appreciate the thicker look compared to the stock bars. I want to do all the drilling and bolt installation now once I get the final alignment.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206248&d=1731191750

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206247&d=1731191750

[OB6]

Thanks for posting your experience with the 2" bars. They're on my list. Now that you've gone through the trouble, would you do it again, or just stick with the 1.5" bars? They look great.

[Blitzboy54]

Thanks for posting your experience with the 2" bars. They're on my list. Now that you've gone through the trouble, would you do it again, or just stick with the 1.5" bars? They look great.

I can imagine I would ever go back to 1.5 inch bars. I just don’t like them. If these were not available I would’ve either gone to the 1.75 setup from breeze or the full cage from Whitby

[Jeff Kleiner]

Jesse,
That came together well. What I've found helps with that gap is to bolt the down tube and hoop together tight before tightening the 3 roll bar to chassis bolts.

OB6 and I had a conversation about the bars a few months ago when his looked like this:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206284&d=1731267261

After putting together over 100 sets of roll bars I have seen the gap before but until that conversation I had not ever laid a straight edge across the down tube to stub interface. I had 4 cars in the shop at that time so out of curiosity I checked and found that out of 8 roll bars 3 were like the photo, 2 were dead straight and one was skewed the opposite direction. I guess this is just part of the FFRs quirky charm, kind of like the hood that isn't centered on the body and isn't straight, the headlights that are cross eyed, the radiator opening that's crooked, the license plate lamp and trunk handle that aren't on the same center, and so on! Want to know something else about the roll bars? If you have both driver and passenger side bars and lay a straight edge across the lower front surface of the "U" shaped hoops you'll find that the 4 tubes are not on the same line! Some times it's better if you don't dig too deep ;)

Jeff

206284

[Blitzboy54]

After putting together over 100 sets of roll bars I have seen the gap before but until that conversation I had not ever laid a straight edge across the down tube to stub interface. I had 4 cars in the shop at that time so out of curiosity I checked and found that out of 8 roll bars 3 were like the photo, 2 were dead straight and one was skewed the opposite direction. I guess this is just part of the FFRs quirky charm, kind of like the hood that isn't centered on the body and isn't straight, the headlights that are cross eyed, the radiator opening that's crooked, the license plate lamp and trunk handle that aren't on the same center, and so on! Want to know something else about the roll bars? If you have both driver and passenger side bars and lay a straight edge across the lower front surface of the "U" shaped hoops you'll find that the 4 tubes are not on the same line! Some times it's better if you don't dig too deep ;)

Jeff



Thanks Jeff,

I figured as much. I used some strategically placed ratchet straps to really pull them together. I got them as close as I can. For all intents and purposes I think we are probably good.

[Blitzboy54]

Completing the role bars

I will say this, drilling the bolt holes for your roll bars can be dicey. On my first one my 1/8 pilot hole bit broke off inside. I then spent the next hour working the back tube off so I could get the piece out and start again. My only advice to anyone no matter what size bar you use is drill them before you put the body on. As a matter of fact do it before the rest of the aluminum goes on.

My plan when I take these back off is to mark all the studs with numbers 1-6, then mark all the sleeves with corresponding numbers. I will also drill out the holes on the sleeves and make them oversized, maybe as much as a half inch. I think this will allow them to go back together easier if they don't have to be perfectly aligned.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206314&d=1731298451

I set the back cockpit aluminum in place to get a sense of what they will look like. I definitely prefer the look and happy I made the switch.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206315&d=1731298451

[OB6]

They look great! Nice job.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Give the reducer sleeves a couple of tack welds at the bottom to secure them into the bars then you won't have to fuss around with alignment when assembling them. Best of all neither will the guy who has to put it all back together after paint ;)

Jeff

[Blitzboy54]

Give the reducer sleeves a couple of tack welds at the bottom to secure them into the bars then you won't have to fuss around with alignment when assembling them. Best of all neither will the guy who has to put it all back together after paint ;)

Jeff

Ha, that is a fantastic point Jeff. I will do that

[Blitzboy54]

Center Console

I am have been lurking on a lot of other build threads on the best way to construct a center console. I need to house a 7x4 in touch screen. I purchased one from Whitby my last build but never used it and sold it to someone else on the forum. I didn't work for me, just too bulky. I want something a little more minimal. I found a thread from 10 years ago and a fella posted plans to one he designed. I will update the thread when I find it again. It wasn't perfect for my use but it was a great starting point. I mocked it up in cardboard and started making adjustments

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206308&d=1731298306

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206309&d=1731298306

I decided to trim it down and have it bend at the corners of the button console portion of the dash. I trimmed down the cardboard then modified the plans to fit my needs.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206310&d=1731298306

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206313&d=1731298451

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206311&d=1731298306

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206312&d=1731298451


I then mocked up where my buttons would go. I used the dash template and measured 5 evenly spaced holes represented by the blue dots. I want to put the head lights, wipers, hazards, heater fan and heater bypass in it. I put the console in and manually mocked the bigger switches. I then had to trim a little of the console off the top but everything will fit. I also have a 1/4 inch gap before the frame contacts the dash. This will be more than enough to account for the upholstery. I am going to try a carbon fiber wrap to match the dash. If I don't like it I may transition to black leather. We will see. It will be secured with rivnuts to the back panel with button head screws so I can remove it for access without taking off the dash.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206336&d=1731362453

Now that I have identified where everything is going to live I will break it down and return to the wiring.

[PNWTim]

That looks pretty good. It's hard to tell from the picture but does the lower center portion of your dash project far enough to act as an anti-glare eyebrow? I know a lot of the better screens you can see in full sunshine/broad daylight but every little bit helps.

[Blitzboy54]

That’s a good question. What it boils down to is there is only so much space to work with so you kind of get what you get. My last car I used a RAM phone holder. On real sunny days there wasn’t much you could do. I can’t put the screen any further back as I need the space for wiring and the unit itself is 5 inches deep. I was more concerned with how it looked against the dash ascetically.

Just for funnzies I powered it up outside to see how it looked and it showed out pretty well. At the end of the day I’m not using 75% of what this unit can do. Calls, music, voice text, Siri are all useless in a roadster. This is purely navigation, dash cam and backup camera

I just noticed your avatar. My kids were both born in OR. Wife and I still have 503 phone numbers. She loves the Ducks.

[PNWTim]

That’s a good question. What it boils down to is there is only so much space to work with so you kind of get what you get. My last car I used a RAM phone holder. On real sunny days there wasn’t much you could do. I can’t put the screen any further back as I need the space for wiring and the unit itself is 5 inches deep. I was more concerned with how it looked against the dash ascetically.

Just for funnzies I powered it up outside to see how it looked and it showed out pretty well. At the end of the day I’m not using 75% of what this unit can do. Calls, music, voice text, Siri are all useless in a roadster. This is purely navigation, dash cam and backup camera

I just noticed your avatar. My kids were both born in OR. Wife and I still have 503 phone numbers. She loves the Ducks.

Go Ducks! You guys are about as far away from Oregon as you can get these days.

For what it's worth, the newer screens seem capable of low angle resolution and have brightness capable of overcoming direct sunlight. I just know from personal experience I will overlook something until someone else says "what about fill in the blank" and I have an aha moment. I didn't realize how deep the unit is either. I should've though - I just put in a new dash insert and Kenwood head unit in my truck and those double DIN units are pretty deep.

Your build is looking great and coming along nicely.

[Blitzboy54]

Wiring continues

The cool thing about doing this a second time is when you know what you didn't the first time you have a better plan. One of the priorities of this one is I want to be able to separate the dash from the chassis if I need to by only removing the mounts and disconnecting connectors. There will be nothing wired that does not have a connector of some type if its mounted on the dash.

Last time I had ground screws all over the place. There is absolutely nothing wrong with this approach it worked fine but I wanted to be more organized this time. I created a master ground with some heavy wire and a self tapping screw after cleaning off all the powder coat. Now i have a one stop shop for all my stray grounds of which there are many.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206423&d=1731634177

I also used two smaller bus bars. The red is battery power (fed from the "radio memory") and the black is ACC power (fed from "radio power")

On the hot side I have the parking brake relay, the head unit power including camera connections, reverse lights and trunk light power. ACC side is the parking brake sensor (for the dash light) the accessory head unit power including camera connections, accessory charging ports and the heater bypass valve.

I mounted the relay board for the parking brake so everything will tuck in nicely behind the head unit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206425&d=1731636438

I posted this on another thread but this is a more appropriate place. These are the two leaders in the club house for paint scheme. I have played with some aqua blues. While I still have not completely ruled it I would have to make it a 4 color scheme for it to work.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206410&d=1731604439

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206409&d=1731604439

[jengum]

Thanks for this. I was planning to add a 2nd fuse box for future accessory wiring. I didn't think about having a common bus bar for ground connections. How many spare circuits are you running in the wire loom to the rear trunk area?

[PNWTim]

I think the base orange/tangerine with grey stripes will really pop. The reverse will be much more subdued but still be an attention getter. It probably comes down to the statement you want to make :cool:.

[Namrups]

Wiring continues

The cool thing about doing this a second time is when you know what you didn't the first time you have a better plan. One of the priorities of this one is I want to be able to separate the dash from the chassis if I need to by only removing the mounts and disconnecting connectors. There will be nothing wired that does not have a connector of some type if its mounted on the dash.

Last time I had ground screws all over the place. There is absolutely nothing wrong with this approach it worked fine but I wanted to be more organized this time. I created a master ground with some heavy wire and a self tapping screw after cleaning off all the powder coat. Now i have a one stop shop for all my stray grounds of which there are many.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206423&d=1731634177

I also used two smaller bus bars. The red is battery power (fed from the "radio memory") and the black is ACC power (fed from "radio power")

On the hot side I have the parking brake relay, the head unit power including camera connections, reverse lights and trunk light power. ACC side is the parking brake sensor (for the dash light) the accessory head unit power including camera connections, accessory charging ports and the heater bypass valve.

I mounted the relay board for the parking brake so everything will tuck in nicely behind the head unit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206425&d=1731636438

I posted this on another thread but this is a more appropriate place. These are the two leaders in the club house for paint scheme. I have played with some aqua blues. While I still have not completely ruled it I would have to make it a 4 color scheme for it to work.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206410&d=1731604439

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206409&d=1731604439

IMO I like the gray with orange stripes.

[cv2065]

Looking good Jessie. I think you've almost caught me. :) I like the Grey with Orange stripes personally. Either way, great build!

[Blitzboy54]

Thanks for this. I was planning to add a 2nd fuse box for future accessory wiring. I didn't think about having a common bus bar for ground connections. How many spare circuits are you running in the wire loom to the rear trunk area?

Two, first is the backup lights (not required everywhere but NY they are). The second is a hot feed that will run a charging port in my rear cubby and go to a switch that will operate trunk lights.


I think the base orange/tangerine with grey stripes will really pop. The reverse will be much more subdued but still be an attention getter. It probably comes down to the statement you want to make :cool:.

Very good points


IMO I like the gray with orange stripes.

Appreciate it. FYI, I think I am going to probably drop the engine in early spring. I won't have tires until this winter and It will be cold and miserable. I'll reach out to the crew sometime in March/April.


Looking good Jessie. I think you've almost caught me. :) I like the Grey with Orange stripes personally. Either way, great build!

Not Even close Devil Dog, but thank you

[jengum]

If you would please put me on your notice list for the engine drop. I have a good idea how it's done based on other build threads but seeing it in person would be beneficial.

[Justin]

I think the bright stripes will look stunning!

[Blitzboy54]

I guess if I am sharing colors this has always been in the mix as well. It's not the front runner but I keep coming back to it.

BMW Atlantis (sometimes called Snapper Rock) Blue

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206567&d=1731983987

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206566&d=1731983803

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206568&d=1731984510

[Blitzboy54]

I ran a hard line to the hydraulic clutch last time but I also used and external slave cylinder. Mike Forte sold me a hydraulic TOB this time around so a flex line seemed the better bet. I went with a ss braided -3an @ 36 inches this time. According to the collective this length should work out. I used a 3an to 1/8 NPT fitting and connected directly to the end of the MC.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206572&d=1731985031

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206573&d=1731985031

Dash Template

So far I have been impressed with the quality of the CF dash. It is by far more rigid than any other options that FFR offers and it's a good looking piece. It is also not cheap. This brings me to the template that comes with it. It has marks for MK 1-2 or MK 3-4 for cutting the steering shaft opening. I used it and lined up my dash. It sets it a little higher than I wanted but not a big deal. Then I set the glove box and realized it did not clear the dash support. I needed to move it almost a full CM to the right. The hole is now completely jenky. I then researched it and those that know say to set the glove box first then cut the hole for the steering shaft. I didn't know that was a thing and I thought it was safe to assume the template would be close. It wasn't.

I get out of jail for free here because I am using Franks turn signal assy. The plate that mounts to the dash is 3 3/8 diameter so I am covered. I would have had to come up with some sort of bezel otherwise.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206570&d=1731984972

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206571&d=1731984972

I made the adjustments I needed to. The turn signal bezel will cover it, I properly marked the dash for gauges, indicators, switches and accessories for level and clearance. I will be cutting and setting this weekend. I also mounted the dash using 4mm black powder coated hex machine screws. I like the look and preferred this to the hidden options that I had considered.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206569&d=1731984972

[TTimmy]

I also used two smaller bus bars. The red is battery power (fed from the "radio memory") and the black is ACC power (fed from "radio power")

On the hot side I have the parking brake relay, the head unit power including camera connections, reverse lights and trunk light power. ACC side is the parking brake sensor (for the dash light) the accessory head unit power including camera connections, accessory charging ports and the heater bypass valve.



Hey Blitzboy - really enjoying your thread and look forward to seeing how it all plays out!

Regarding the power source for each of these bus bars, will each of the radio feeds provide enough power to support everything that will be connected? If this is a concern, you might consider adding relays and triggering them from each of the radio feeds. The power source for the relays would be the battery. Of course that complicates matters because then you either need fuses or circuit breakers for whatever is hanging off the bus bar.

[Jeff Kleiner]

... I also mounted the dash using 4mm black powder coated hex machine screws. I like the look and preferred this to the hidden options that I had considered.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206569&d=1731984972

Just an FYI; should you ever need to remove the dash once the body is on you won't be able to access those screws.

Jeff

[Blitzboy54]

Just an FYI; should you ever need to remove the dash once the body is on you won't be able to access those screws.

Jeff

I understand. I gave it a lot of thought and with out boring everyone with all my neurotic reasons I decided I just didn't like any of the other options. My Tach and Speedo are 5 inches and easily removable as is the glove box. This gives me a lot of access. If I REALLY need to remove the dash then the body has to come off too and then, at that point, I may be disappointed in my life's choices. :)

As an aside, I got the sleeves welded in my roll bars today.

Thanks as always for looking out.

[PNWTim]

Jesse - can you refresh my memory on which gauges you are using? When you mentioned a 5" tach and Speedo I am thinking you must have gone aftermarket and somehow I missed it earlier in your thread.

[Blitzboy54]

Hey Blitzboy - really enjoying your thread and look forward to seeing how it all plays out!

Regarding the power source for each of these bus bars, will each of the radio feeds provide enough power to support everything that will be connected? If this is a concern, you might consider adding relays and triggering them from each of the radio feeds. The power source for the relays would be the battery. Of course that complicates matters because then you either need fuses or circuit breakers for whatever is hanging off the bus bar.

Thank you, I appreciate it.


The short answer is yes, there is enough. As you said at the end of the day all the power for everything short of spark comes from the battery. The only concern is would I be putting too large a load on those wires. I added up all the amp potential and it's very low. My biggest concern was the parking brake. It has a max current load of 3 amps. I am using less than 1 ( tested it with a small power supply that only has a max of 0.3 amps and the brake operated fine. The rest is less than an amp even if everything is running at the same time. The fuses in the RF harness for the Radio Memory is 15 amps. This is what I have the brake on. The ACC is 10 amp.

[Blitzboy54]

Jesse - can you refresh my memory on which gauges you are using? When you mentioned a 5" tach and Speedo I am thinking you must have gone aftermarket and somehow I missed it earlier in your thread.

I am not using FFR supplied gauges but I am using Autometer. So really apples to apples to what FFR offers. I just went my own direction aesthetically

[Blitzboy54]

Dash

I have turned my focus to the dash. Plan is pretty straight forward. First make all the cuts, rough everything in, assemble the glove box and then get to all the wiring.

Fist things first. I have a fairly busy dash by design so lots of cuts. What I have learned about carbon fiber is I don't like working with carbon fiber. It is nice and rigid, pretty easy to cut but that dust gets everywhere. I wore a respirator but the little fibers get all over your skin and can be itchy. I also had to pull a couple of splinters. Headed right to the shower after all the cutting and sanding. The only issue I had is the small gauge holes a touch too large. I undersized the big 5 inch holes and opened them slowly, that was the plan with the other ones too but I didn't set my bit quite right. They are fine, everything fits nice I just couldn't make them any bigger.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206778&d=1732500413

I went with BIG 5 inch tach and speedo. I really like the look although it has that old guy extra big text font vibe. This is fine with me. The 3 white gauges are LED lit and go from white with silver numbers to black with red numbers with the headlights on. The black gauges are traditional incandescent but I put red back lights in them. When my steering hub arrives it will have the turn signal, horn and high beam integrated into it. The only hole I didn't cut is the ignition. I have not decided on what push button ignition I want to use but I know where it will go when I choose it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206779&d=1732500413

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206780&d=1732500413

Glove box

I broke everything back down and built the glove box. I did have one issue. First the bar that the hinges attach to are pre drilled. The holes do not line up with the glove box holes. They needed to be widened significantly. The other is the aluminum plate that gets epoxied to the glove box door. The grooves that go around the hinges needed to be cut a CM deeper. If you don't the plate doesn't fit right. Originally I wanted to install a push button lockable latch. I don't love having to use a key every time but all the latches I found were too big. I did however find this one that better fits the look of the dash. It uses a round key and looks pretty sharp. I also lined the box with felt, I am unsure If I will also line the door. We will see.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206781&d=1732503471

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206782&d=1732503471

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206783&d=1732503471

US Customs

Lastly I mentioned in another thread. My custom seats, transmission tunnel cover and door cards were made by Intatrim. They are in the UK. My stuff shipped last week but was flagged at Customs because the shipper messed up some of the paperwork. The declared value didn't match the commercial invoice. They sent the correct paperwork within 24 hours and FedEx uploaded these documents to them. That was a week ago. All I know is my stuff is in Ft. Worth TX and I have no idea when or if I will ever see it. I am cautiously optimistic this will eventually get resolved but who knows. So in the mean time I will continue to work on the build and try to keep a positive attitude about it.

[Blitzboy54]

Aaaaand just as I typed it my stuff was released from customs. Yay, delivery scheduled for tomorrow.....

All stressed out for nothing

[cv2065]

Happy to see you got your seats coming. Has to be a big relief. Your dash is looking great! Are you planning to have removal access once the body is on?

[Blitzboy54]

Happy to see you got your seats coming. Has to be a big relief. Your dash is looking great! Are you planning to have removal access once the body is on?

I am relieved for sure.

I can’t find a way to do it that I like. As of right now, no. Like most things I reserve the right to change my mind.

[PNWTim]

I am relieved for sure.

I can’t find a way to do it that I like. As of right now, no. Like most things I reserve the right to change my mind.

Building a car is synonymous with changing your mind...

[jengum]

Where did you source the five indicator lights to the left of the tachometer?

Also did you decide on a source for the backup light? I was looking at your first build thread photos and it looks like there are LED lights mounted mounted below the trunk area? I see some builders are using the mini Cooper lights which are DOT compliant but require a body cutout for mounting.

The competition dash looks great.

[Blitzboy54]

Where did you source the five indicator lights to the left of the tachometer?

Also did you decide on a source for the backup light? I was looking at your first build thread photos and it looks like there are LED lights mounted mounted below the trunk area? I see some builders are using the mini Cooper lights which are DOT compliant but require a body cutout for mounting.

The competition dash looks great.

As of right now I am going to use the same lights as last time. Very small and DOT approved. Now that I have a backup camera I will do some testing first though. I may make them bigger and brighter since they will serve an actual purpose. If you want I have some extras. You are welcome to take two of them if that's the route you want to go.

The indicators I got here. Dark but colorful when lit. Just the right size for my build.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CPLHKFT7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Blitzboy54]

Finishing up the dash wiring. I am waiting on some diodes for the hazards and the rest of the stray wires go into the steering hub. That will house directional, horn and high beams. I secured the dash harness and tested all the circuits with an external power supply. it all seems to be working as it should. Autometer does not make a 16-158 ohm fuel gauge in the style I wanted but they do offer a fully programmable one. I tried to pre program it but I don't think my little power supply had a enough juice to make the program feature work. Have to wait until I get a proper battery to complete that task

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206905&d=1732752382

Odd little happenstance my hazard button I purchased from Billet Buttons failed. It stopped latching and doesn't operate properly.Weird because they are generally well made. I am assuming I just got a random dud. in the mean time I have a spare button I was going to use for something else that I can use. I may keep it

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206906&d=1732752430


My upholstery arrived from Intatrim safe and sound. Incredibly well made stuff. They are not cheap but for what you get and that they are 100 percent custom made to order the cost is quite reasonable. The quality is exceptional. The trans cover has a layer of foam already attached and it is slightly oversized which is perfect. The door cards are wrapped around plywood. Really nice stuff.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206904&d=1732752382

I set them in and the fit is great. The seat base is smaller than the last set I used and they have a lot of adjustability. The Monaco's I used previously only fit one way and not by a lot. They were also very heavy these are feather lite. These also sit very low so if you use a riser our mount you have a lot of room to work with. I am smitten. I purchased on set of FFR sliders that I never used but still have. I am going to mock up the drivers seat with it to see if that works. I would like to be able to move the seat. if for no other reason than to move the seat forward to clean behind it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206907&d=1732752430

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206908&d=1732752430

[OB6]

Looks great, I love orange.

And those 2" roll bars make a big difference. I just ordered a set.

[jengum]

What are the diodes for? I saw another discussion thread about using diodes with the hazardous flasher billet button. Is there a specific wiring diagram for this?

[Blitzboy54]

What are the diodes for? I saw another discussion thread about using diodes with the hazardous flasher billet button. Is there a specific wiring diagram for this?

The dash wiring for turn signal system for FFR is setup where you run two sets of wires for the turn signals. Left is dark green and right is light blue (there are some other wires for the rear lights bundled in there too but not relevant here) There are 2 separate switches for the turn signal and the hazards. The turn signal has a grey 12v wire fed from the ACC circuit that applies power to either the right or left depending on the position of the switch. The kit comes with a Double Pole Single Throw switch for the hazards. That switch is fed from a pink 12v wire that is fed from the Battery circuit. The switch is designed so that the blue and green do not touch electrically. If they did when you used the turn signal all 4 lights would flash because you would have created a short, but you need power to both sides so the pink wire has a jumper to apply power to both the left and right side when activated.

I don't want to use that switch, I am using one from Billet Buttons. This button is a traditional On Off. The issue is how do you apply power with this switch to both the left and right without having the left and right connected to each other because if they do touch again the turn signals wont work right. So you can either use a different switch or put diodes in line with the turn signals. Diodes only allow electricity to flow in one direction. You can apply power through them when you activate but you will not have electrical continuity between the turn signal wires. You just have to make sure you install them in the correct direction.

[Blitzboy54]

As I round third base on the dash I wanted to add a handle and re enforce the dash. The number one thing you will end up telling everyone that gets in the passenger seat for the first time is not to use the windshield to support themselves. It is not load bearing. I like having a grab rail. It gives people something to use to sit and pull themselves up.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207021&d=1733098753

In order to make this functional it has to be bolted to the frame. I used a generic steel strip and bent it to form with a little heat, my vise and a big ol hammer. I drilled and tapped the holes for M8 bolts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207022&d=1733098753

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207023&d=1733098753

It also has the bonus of locking the bottom of the dash down. There is zero flex now. I added a steel strap to the drivers side as well. Before final assembly I will likely powder coat the straps. They will rust in the humidity if you don't

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207024&d=1733098753

I re designed the head unit enclosure a bit. The rake was too deep. It created a number of fitment issues. I also had made the first one with galvanized steel. I ordered a proper piece of aluminum (.040) and it is much more rigid. I flattened it out a bit and made it a touch shorter I added a few strips of heat mat under the trans dash and set the cover on it so I could measure with everything at it's final thickness. Everything fits much better now

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207025&d=1733098873

I pulled everything down and finished the wiring. I installed diodes on the hazard input and tested. Everything works exactly as it should. I also put the rest of the switches in permanently. My bottom row of switches is (from left to right) Heater core bypass valve, heater fan, hazards, wipers and headlights.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207027&d=1733098873

Lastly I wrapped the enclosure in carbon fiber wrap, it matches the dash nicely and the head unit looks nice against it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207028&d=1733098873

[PNWTim]

Looking really good. The CF wrap is great to tie it in with the dash.

[Namrups]

Where do you get the carbon fiber wrap?

[Blitzboy54]

Where do you get the carbon fiber wrap?

I broke the bank. LOL

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007OXCIB0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

[Jeff Kleiner]

Hey Jesse,
Which Intatrim model are the seats?.

Jeff

[jcarcustom]

Good Luck and have a fun with your project! Awesome project!

[Its Bruce]

Hey Jesse,
Which Intatrim model are the seats?.

Jeff

Those are Stoneleighs.

[ydousurf]

Blitz, the dash looks awesome and thanks for the link to the vinyl wrap too! I was planning on doing my lower dash kick-out and trans tunnel in real carbon fiber, but maybe this an easier route to go? I’ll have to decide on which direction to go. Again thanks for sharing that info.

Jeff, here is a link to those seats. They are the model: Stoneleigh - (Not cheap but you can go full customized with them).
https://intatrim.co.uk/products/stoneleigh/

I was considering getting those as well, but now I’m thinking of getting Corbeau Evolution X seats. I’m just not sure if these will fit?

Doug

[Blitzboy54]

Hey Jesse,
Which Intatrim model are the seats?.

Jeff

As others have said they are Stoneleigh. I learned about these from Hacksaw84's build. He was the first one I had ever seen use them.

Just to educate anyone that is interested this is how it works. Reach out to Robin via the websites email. He will give you pricing and lead time. You can also call but if you don't have an international plan I recommend using Whatsapp or Google voice. Calls to the UK are very pricey. Once you've agreed on everything he requires payment up front. He uses Paypal and it does the conversion for you. Once paid you can provide him with anything to show him what you want.

Mine were about 12 weeks. Once complete he will send you some pics and then ship them.

Just to give you an idea I sent him this picture that looks like the work of a pre schooler

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207038&d=1733157587

and he returned me this 20 minutes later

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207037&d=1733156900

[Blitzboy54]

Blitz, the dash looks awesome and thanks for the link to the vinyl wrap too! I was planning on doing my lower dash kick-out and trans tunnel in real carbon fiber, but maybe this an easier route to go? I’ll have to decide on which direction to go. Again thanks for sharing that info.

Jeff, here is a link to those seats. They are the model: Stoneleigh - (Not cheap but you can go full customized with them).
https://intatrim.co.uk/products/stoneleigh/

I was considering getting those as well, but now I’m thinking of getting Corbeau Evolution X seats. I’m just not sure if these will fit?

Doug

I put these in.

Cobra Monaco Pro

https://www.cobraseats-usa.com/item/monaco-pro/motorsport

They are the same size according to the website. My only caviet is I put a previous version in. I don't know if the updated ones are the same dimensions. Also when I say they fit, they JUST FIT. No wiggle room whatsoever. If I had needed them closer to the foot box I could not have used them.

I think you will be ok but I would mock something up before committing to the purchase.

[ydousurf]

Thanks for the input/feedback, Blitz! Yeah, I really like those seats too! I’m actually looking for the option to have seat heaters installed in them, and that is why I was looking at either the Stoneleigh or Evolution. Plus, I am planning to make them swappable as to be able to switch between the original roadster seats for shows/cars & coffee and a head-rest version for autocross and highway driving. However those you have would give a much nicer “racer’s” feel I believe.

Doug

[TXeverydayDad]

As I round third base on the dash I wanted to add a handle and re enforce the dash. The number one thing you will end up telling everyone that gets in the passenger seat for the first time is not to use the windshield to support themselves. It is not load bearing. I like having a grab rail. It gives people something to use to sit and pull themselves up.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207021&d=1733098753




Where did you get that grab rail? Looks really good.

[Blitzboy54]

Where did you get that grab rail? Looks really good.

Thanks man, I appreciate that. It’s a pretty standard marine grab rail. It was polished steel. I powder coated it in Prismatic Powder stone black. I picked it primarily because it fit in the space available

https://a.co/d/4OBExMi

[danmas]

I just ordered the same grab bar.

[danmas]

Are you able to share your center console design? It looks straight forward but would be nice to follow in your footsteps.

Thanks!

Dan

[Blitzboy54]

Are you able to share your center console design? It looks straight forward but would be nice to follow in your footsteps.

Thanks!

Dan

Sure, I didn't make a template or anything but I can take some detailed pictures and measurements if you want.

[jengum]

A few upgrade parts arrived.

First is the Ford gas tank filler seal. For those that don't know the grommet that comes with the kit that seals the filler neck to the gas tank is not OEM. FFR uses a Dorman part. There is a history of those leaking. I ordered the Ford part at my local dealer and I had it in a day. It was $32. Cheap insurance. Ford PN FZZZ9072DA

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204384&d=1726954634

Next is the brakes. Wilwood uses what they call BP-10 as their standard brake pad. Regardless if you order from them or FFR this is what will come with them unless you tell them otherwise. I found them to be ok, but just ok. Some may disagree but I want my brakes to stop as aggressively and radically as my car accelerates. I did a lot of motorcycle track days in my 20's and 30's. My best times were all on lightweight bikes with huge brakes vs heavy fire breathers. I upgraded my fronts to BP-20's on my first build in the front. These are the most aggressive "street pad" Wilwood offers (everything else is a race pad). It made a significant difference. This build I want freakish stopping power so I am putting BP-20's on all four corners. They are not cheap but worth it IMO

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204381&d=1726954577

The real exciting news is I got my panels back from powder coat. They cam out really nice. It's a metallic charcoal. I am going to use black rivets and I think it creates a cool look. The best part is I now have my color scheme worked out and it is all represented in my engine bay. Interesting twist is I was originally going to PC all the engine panels black again. I dropped them off with that as my order. The next morning I changed my mind to the charcoal. I already did the driver footbox. I plan to keep it black for now. I have some design ideas that I think will look really cool, but there is a scenario where I pull it back off and re do it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204383&d=1726954634

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204382&d=1726954634

Now that my F panels are in I was able to finish the front suspension. This should have been completely drama free but I discovered one of the downsides of having done this before is getting a little too comfortable. I make sure to keep the manual open and reference it. I got to the spindles and stopped reading at "DSS is the drivers side spindle". The rest of that sentence was for the hotrod. The roadster goes the other way. So I installed it on the drivers side before realizing it wasn't right. So I had to take it back out and fix it. I had to use a bearing puller to get it to pop off the lower control arm. Those are tapered. DOH

Any rate they are in and look good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204378&d=1726954577

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204377&d=1726954577

Do you have a powder coat color description or RAL number for the metallic charcoal? Where did you source the black rivets...McMaster Carr?

[Blitzboy54]

Do you have a powder coat color description or RAL number for the metallic charcoal? Where did you source the black rivets...McMaster Carr?

I do not. The work was done by Powdertech in Duanesburg. They would know. The rivets I got on Amazon although MC has them too.


Speaking of powder coat......


I figured if I was going to PC the dash supports I mind as well do the trunk hinges too.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207304&d=1733695764

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207303&d=1733695764

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207302&d=1733695764

[Blitzboy54]

Complete and test dash wiring


I removed the dash and completed the connections for the heater and wipers as well as put in wire looms for the external components. I attached the heater vents and ran the duct for the passenger and half the driver.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207305&d=1733698371

I made one electrical change. I moved the parking brake off the bus bar in the cockpit and ran it from the main power bus directly off the battery.

Re attached the support and mounted the dash (hopefully for good).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207300&d=1733695728

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207299&d=1733695728

I purchased a bigger 12v power supply and connected to the battery lugs. I disconnected the computer for the coyote, I don't need that powering up yet. I was able to calibrate the fuel gauge to the sender, test all my dash lights, hazards, directionals and high beams. I wired in my courtesy lights. I plan to put a light in the glove box and tie that to the courtesy circuit. The only problem with the power supply is I was hoping it was strong enough to test the wipers and heater fan (not big enough). Going to borrow Scott's later this week.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207298&d=1733695646

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207296&d=1733695646

Last thing I got done today


I was able to test parking brake light. Worked as expected.



https://youtu.be/07jJa_RdlZQ?si=NgoNJTLckth4uT52


I will hook up the head unit and test the cameras while I wait for Franks turn signal to arrive later this week and finish up the dash.

[PNWTim]

It's the little milestones that count, like the PB light! I love that. I built my last car without testing a single electrical circuit and I was a nervous wreck on 1st start. Everything worked but I was waaaaay out of my wheelhouse on that one.

I have a small 12 volt power supply but I probably need to check it's amperage to see what it can really power.

[Blitzboy54]

I also found some time to mock up my dash/rear cams and test as well. It's easy to slide the unit in because I measured the frame with enough room to clear the dash itself when fully upholstered. You can also see the fit and finish with the CF wrap.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207326&d=1733751642

I mounted the rear and front camera roughly using of all things blue tape. Worked for what it was. I also used a separate power supply to test the backup trigger that will wire into the reverse lights.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207325&d=1733751642

Worked like it should

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207328&d=1733751695


Front camera works too. It's a pretty basic setup. The camera and or the head unit will accept an SD card that continuously writes to it, then over writes when full. I should be able to keep a couple days worth of driving at a time. The idea here is I have (will have) insurance. If someone makes a mistake and takes the front end of my car apart or rear ends me there isn't any shop that will fix it. I want to document the accident and just get cashed out. The backup is cam is just a bonus, the car hips are wide and backing into the garage would be easier with a camera but was not the initial reason I went this route

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207329&d=1733751695

Last I made the bluetooth connection with my phone. I tested it with maps to navigate to this totally random place that I have never been to to see how long it would take to get there. :)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207327&d=1733751642

[PNWTim]

I really like the multi-functionality of the head unit. I will be doing something similar with cameras but integrated into a rearview mirror which will be overhead.

And there is nothing wrong with blue tape for the win.

[Blitzboy54]

I really like the multi-functionality of the head unit. I will be doing something similar with cameras but integrated into a rearview mirror which will be overhead.

And there is nothing wrong with blue tape for the win.

That's awesome. Scott has one of those in his coupe. I thought about it but I don't have anywhere to cleanly run the wire unless I mount it to the dash. I want my rear view up high this time.

I look forward to seeing how you do it.

[Fman]

Jesse, have you tested that screen in daylight? I cant even read my 8" Fire tablet in full daylight hours with my Pro Flo 4 EFI app. The glare from the sun is terrible. Works fine during early morning, late evening and night driving.

[Blitzboy54]

Jesse, have you tested that screen in daylight? I cant even read my 8" Fire tablet in full daylight hours with my Pro Flo 4 EFI app. The glare from the sun is terrible. Works fine during early morning, late evening and night driving.

Yeah, thanks Travis. I did test it out in the sun. It works pretty good, at least better than my phone. I’m going to give it a whirl as is. There are also anti glare films I can play with if need be.

[460.465USMC]

Last I made the bluetooth connection with my phone. I tested it with maps to navigate to this totally random place that I have never been to to see how long it would take to get there. :)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207327&d=1733751642

Looks great, Jesse! Many cool features in your build. You're moving at warp speed! Are you having as much fun as your first build? I know I am. Keep up the great work.

[Blitzboy54]

Looks great, Jesse! Many cool features in your build. You're moving at warp speed! Are you having as much fun as your first build? I know I am. Keep up the great work.

Thanks Chris. Always good to hear from you. Yes sir, I’m having a blast. I think the pace of the build reflects that. I really like being in the garage.

Looking forward to seeing some of your updates.

[460.465USMC]

Thanks Chris. Always good to hear from you. Yes sir, I’m having a blast. I think the pace of the build reflects that. I really like being in the garage.

Looking forward to seeing some of your updates.

I can totally relate. My family bought me two tee shirts during my first build. The first one says, "My garage is my happy place". The second says, "I can't. I have plans in the garage". Not that I would ever say that. :p

I bet you'll be at First Start before long. Will be exciting!

[Blitzboy54]

Turn Signal Pt 1

One of the more exciting developments around here is the turn signal I ordered from Frank arrived this week. It's a real well thought out unit. Frank sent me the dimensions so I was able to mock it up on my dash ahead of time. It arrived in basically 4 pieces. The base plate that marries the hub to the dash, the hub (contains the stalk), a backing plate that secures the hub and the boss.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207487&d=1734131127

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207486&d=1734131127

The turn signal comes ready to wire the directionals and horn. If you want to use the side button for the high beams you have to install a relay. I hadn't planned for a relay so I had to find a home. I put it behind the dash under the dash frame so I can get to it if I ever need to replace it. I also installed the switch for the parking brake that came out pretty sharp.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207488&d=1734131201

I completed the rest of the wiring and connected the heat duct.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207489&d=1734131201

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207497&d=1734133347

While I was working I also buttoned up a couple other items. First is I added lights to the glove box. These run off the cockpit courtesy circuit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207485&d=1734131127

I also caved and installed a bias adjuster. Turns out Speedway motors makes their own. I got it for $35 and to my surprise the knob is a billet aluminum vs plastic. the whole setup is a Wilwood clone. I will connect the cable once I get the Tilton 90 degree.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207496&d=1734133208


I connected the tail lights and tested as well. These are good to go.


https://youtu.be/ztyY0N83Af4?si=7Aj0cK5v2_xQNzAO

[Blitzboy54]

Turn Signal Pt 2

I decided to carry the theme and powder coat the boss. I was going to powder coat the mounting plate as well but it shipped already black.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207491&d=1734131258

I mounted everything up per the instructions and it looks great. I am not completely sold on the FFR steering wheel. I have no plans to change it right now but will possibly go with something more modern. This will do for now though.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207493&d=1734131258

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207492&d=1734131258

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207494&d=1734131286

I also ordered Franks drop trunk and trunk cover plate. I was pleasantly surprised to find some extra swag in with my order. Really classy touch IMO.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207495&d=1734131286


Last but not least here is everything fully tested.


https://youtu.be/UGbSkX_cg9A?si=EgYyLzsa1TbqWy8s

[jengum]

Looks great Jesse!

Are you planning defroster ducts for the 2nd build or is there a workaround for NYS registration and inspection?

Tilton 90deg elbow...did you change out the MC's for Tiltons? I've been reading about the recent failures.

Turn signal hub...did you substitute the horn function for high beam operation or is there a separate stalk button? Is it latching or momentary? I watched Frank's video for adding the high beam relay but is the other wiring a direct connection to the RF harness?

[Blitzboy54]

Looks great Jesse!

Are you planning defroster ducts for the 2nd build or is there a workaround for NYS registration and inspection?

Tilton 90deg elbow...did you change out the MC's for Tiltons? I've been reading about the recent failures.

Turn signal hub...did you substitute the horn function for high beam operation or is there a separate stalk button? Is it latching or momentary? I watched Frank's video for adding the high beam relay but is the other wiring a direct connection to the RF harness?

Ducts on a roadster are useless if you don't have a top. I will temporarily put defroster grills on the body when I register. Then ditch them.

The elbow has nothing to do with the MC, just happed to both be made by Tilton. The 90 is the only way to get the cable to fit and function in the space available the way I want to do it.

Franks hub uses the stalk for the horn. Pull it and it becomes a momentary switch. Everything else just wires to the RF harness.

[Blitzboy54]

Merry Christmas to me!!!

My friend Scott stopped by last weekend to say hi and see the build in person. He has a beautiful Red and White coupe that unfortunately had a valve failure that resulted in the engine getting pulled and sent back to Mike Forte for repair. We were chatting about where I was in the build and I mentioned my power supply wasn't big enough to test the wipers and heater fan. He reminded me he had a big boy power supply and a "spare" battery I was welcome to borrow. I thought that was a fine idea and made the trip out to his place on Sunday.

While we were hanging out in the garage and looking over his door pocket project Scott showed me a few other surprises he had for me. First was the battery, power supply and circuit tester.

I connected it to my battery leads and ran the heater. The blower works well and moves a lot of air. I tested the wipers. I turned them on and off a couple times then I heard a pop. Ru Roh, I had blown the 10a wiper fuse. After some trouble shooting I found I had a short in the switch. I wired up the FFR switch and the wipers work fine so I definitely had a bad part. I ordered a better switch but I am also a little torn. I kind of like the FFR switch but to put it in the dash I would have to make the hole bigger so no take backs. I will think about it for a while

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207620&d=1734399566

I re tested all my lights and switches and noticed my dimmer didn't work. I then figured out I have half LED's and regular bulbs. So to fix this I am changing the 5 small gauges to LED bulbs and putting and LED dimmer in line. I didn't drive my last car a lot at night but when I did you get a lot of glare from the dash in the windshield. I needed to turn the lights way down.

Next was this little beauty! Scott tried to install it on the coupe and couldn't make it work so he very generously gave to me. This was a gift (not a loan) and honestly a really nice thing to do. Made my day

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207627&d=1734401000

I was also talking about where I was in the build and how I would like to put the engine in but I can't until I get the car on the ground. I don't have tires and won't until spring so I will just work on other stuff until then. Scott said he had an extra set of wheels for his challenger with his summer tires on them and he thinks they are the same bolt pattern. Well low and behold they are 18" and are 5x114.3 we test fit one on his coupe and BANG!! We are in business. With this little touch of Mopar magic I can put her on the ground and drop the engine and trans probably next month. LFG!!!!!! Looks kind of awesome to boot.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207623&d=1734399609


Other things I was able to to do was get my headlights tested.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207621&d=1734399566

and turn signals

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207622&d=1734399566

On Saturday I was able to get a start on Franks drop trunk. It's a nice piece that's a little bigger than the one I had put in my last car.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207624&d=1734399609

This is a great example of what this community continues to be. I genuinely appreciate Scott being a part of my build. Thanks man!


"Merry Christmas to all and to all a good night"

[gbranham]

Yeah, buddy! Great feeling getting those lights and gauges lit, eh? I just did this same thing for the first time Saturday.

Greg

[Blitzboy54]

It's cold

With the holidays and the weather it has not been ideal garage time. It's been chilly this week

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208075&d=1735244795

But despite the head winds I still have made some progress. First was I finished the bias adjuster. Tucked everything in to the foot box. There does not seem to be any interference. I did end up putting some lithium grease on the rotating assy of this since it was metal bearing against a metal plate. Runs real smooth.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208074&d=1735244696

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208073&d=1735244696


Electrically I finished with the dash for the most part. I replaced the gauges that originally came with incandescent bulbs to LED and installed a dimmer in line that I purchased from Autometer. I know some folks think it's not necessary but I found it to be useful on my last car and wanted to the ability to do it on this one.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208082&d=1735245181

Next I cried uncle on my wiper switch. Instead of purchasing a rotating switch from Ron Francis I decided to color the bezel black and run with the FFR toggle. I kind of like how it breaks up the dash. I can always change it out later if I change my mind.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208083&d=1735245181

I started on my rear aluminum. I am going to stop at the sides for now and start prepping the engine for drop in. I think I want to be able to access the tank, pump and fuel lines until first start just in case there are any issues.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208076&d=1735244842

I mounted the gas tank vent canister. I rather shamelessly stole this from Chris (cv2065). Credit where credit is due.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208077&d=1735244842

[PNWTim]

I think there may be something wrong with your display on your daily driver - there's a negative sign in front of the 4!

Great progress and pretty perfect those wheels and tires are a fit. I feel a first start coming to a theater near you...

[Nigel Allen]

-20 Celsius! I can't even imagine that. Closest I have ever experienced anything like that was fixing an electric forklift in a blast freezer. After 30 minutes I thought I would die before the repair was done.

We had 101F on Christmas day.

Cheers,

Nige

[Blitzboy54]

I think there may be something wrong with your display on your daily driver - there's a negative sign in front of the 4!

Great progress and pretty perfect those wheels and tires are a fit. I feel a first start coming to a theater near you...


-20 Celsius! I can't even imagine that. Closest I have ever experienced anything like that was fixing an electric forklift in a blast freezer. After 30 minutes I thought I would die before the repair was done.

We had 101F on Christmas day.

Cheers,

Nige

The older I get the less tolerance I have for the dead of winter. Good chance my kids stay in the Northeast which means by default we would too. If that happens my first retirement project will be to find the cheapest tear down ina warmer climate and build me an escape hatch.

Ideally a tiny home with a 3 car garage. :)

[cv2065]

I’m ALL over the tiny home with big garage. As long as my wife has animals running around, she should be good as well!

[Blitzboy54]

Drive line drama

I am prepping my drive line for assembly and install. I got my engine off the stand and transmission out of the box. I got them on a couple of rolling dollies. Nothing fancy but they are both level and at the same height.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208533&d=1736019397

I purchased a RAM HTB from Mike Forte for the install and broke out the instructions. It comes with a handy work sheet for measuring your spaces. It comes with a stack of conical shims. i installed all of them and came up with gap of .327". The goal is a gap of .150". I ordered some additional shims from RAM.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208544&d=1736024964

After seeing how this system works I have concerns. I don't like that my only adjustment is the addition or subtraction of shims. My preference is to engage the clutch at the top of the pedal stroke and if it engages later i have to pull the transmission. I reached out to a couple builders that had used RAM HTB and their experience did not line up with what I want in a clutch. I started a thread and it sounds like what I really wanted was a Tilton HTB. The Tilton kit for my setup is around $550 plus shipping, tax, a new MC and whatever I need for a pedal stop. With this in mind I was still inclined to use the parts I already purchased. I had removed the output collar and replaced it with the unit that comes with the HTB. The instructions have you remove one of the 4 bolts and replace it with the stud that keeps the bearing from rotating. I tightened it down with a ratchet and this happened.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208534&d=1736019397

That was it for me. I am going to put the TKX back together with the original collar and install a fork and manual bearing. I ordered an external slave from MDL. It will work with my existing MC. I then moved on to the fly wheel clearance check

For those that don't know There are intermittent clearance issues between the TCCM1899 bellhousing and the Coyote fly wheel. The steal Quicktime does not have this issue. Sure enough my fly wheel teeth didn't clear in 2 spots.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208535&d=1736019397

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208536&d=1736019642

I removed a not insignificant amount of material

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208537&d=1736019642

[Blitzboy54]

Part 2

After trimming with my die grinder the teeth now clear. I can rotate freely

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208540&d=1736019699

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208539&d=1736019699

One of the more common clutches used on the coyote/TKX is the Ford Racing M-7560-T46 . It's what Paul and many others here have used. It is actually a Centerforce clutch. The Centerforce PN for the same clutch is DF148679. The Ford unit is around $650, if you go right to Centerforce it runs $499. I then put the PN into google and found it on sale at Amazon for $366. All in all a nice savings.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208541&d=1736019728

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208542&d=1736019728

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208543&d=1736019728

[Jeff Kleiner]

At least you found the bellhousing to flywheel interference before dropping the engine and trans in. Unfortunately I didn't on a Coupe that I did a couple of years ago :mad:

Jeff

[Blitzboy54]

At least you found the bellhousing to flywheel interference before dropping the engine and trans in. Unfortunately I didn't on a Coupe that I did a couple of years ago :mad:

Jeff

Jeff,

Literally the ONLY reason I even knew to check was I found your thread and bookmarked it 6 months ago.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?44331-Tremec-Coyote-boobytrap-warning

This forum is a national treasure.

[Blitzboy54]

Alright, Alright, Alright

A couple weekends ago I was able to get the rest of the drivetrain together. I was really struggling to get the TKX to seat into the clutch. Took it apart a couple times. I inserted the drive shaft so I could rotate the spline as I assumed the teeth were not lined up. Spent what turned out to be an embarrassing amount of time on this until I discovered I had the transmission in neutral. I am rotating away and weird, nothing was happening. Lol

After I popped in gear everything fit together just fine.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209319&d=1737236432

I don't have an engine hoist, but I do have a chain fall. I put a real beafy anchor point in the middle of the bay. The only downside to this arrangement is I have to bring the car to the engine. So the door has to be open and it's still winter. Fortunately my friend Scott doesn't care. He came out and we spent the day stuffing this monster in. Definitely harder than the 302 I installed last time. Parts I needed to remove that I didn't consider before we started: Clutch reservoir, steering shaft and in my case the oil temp sender. Also the coyote has a weird kitty corner mounting arrangement. This makes the tilt all but useless. I removed a bunch of sensors and ran chains across from the lift brackets to header bolts. If you can't tilt the transmission down I don't know how you would get it in. At one point it was a half inch at a time, down then back...etc

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209320&d=1737236432

This just before I removed the reservoir and steering shaft
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209321&d=1737236432

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209325&d=1737236744

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209326&d=1737236744

We got it in and that was the end of the good news for the day. I did not realize I needed engine mount spacers. I read the coyote instructions but missed it. That was my mistake. However it turns out I didn't have them anyhow. This is what it looks like without them.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209328&d=1737236802

Scott and I were really beating our heads against the wall until we figured out what the problem was. I propped up the engine with a cobbled together platform and a floor jack and hunkered down until these arrived

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209329&d=1737236802

[Blitzboy54]

As you can see with the spacers the engine fits just like its supposed to. I am not clear what the alternative is to having these. I suppose you could makes some sort of plate but I don't think it would work right. I was able to get the mounts off the engine by lifting it a couple inches, install the spacers and re attach. After everything was in and level I was able to re torque.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209332&d=1737236896

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209331&d=1737236896

Next was getting the engine level. Even with the supplied transmission spacers it tilts backwards quite a bit. I measured a gap of .700 between the mount and the plate. I used these SS spacers to line everything up. I obviously needed longer transmission bolts as well

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209333&d=1737236973

That brought the oil pan on a level plain with the 4" tube

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209334&d=1737236973

All in all it looks great. Everything fits as hoped. I was a little worried about the heater but it fits exactly as I estimated.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209338&d=1737237082

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209336&d=1737237082

It's definitely tight on the drivers side. Really only have a couple of mm. I would assume some contact when the engine torques but we will see.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209337&d=1737237082

[Blitzboy54]

Drive shaft and slave cylinder

Once the engine and transmission were set I put everything back that I had removed. I made sure to torque down everything that I had disturbed. Then I moved on to the driveshaft. It went in without drama. I powered up the parking brake so I could torque the bolts to the required 70 lb-ft. It kind of odd looking because so much of the spline is exposed. It has to be this way because I had JUST enough play to get the shaft in. I thought at one point I may have to loosen something but it went in. I will leave the shifter here for now. I think I am going to need to be right where that cross bar is. The mid shift is too close. I am pretty certain I am going to reverse the shifter.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209339&d=1737237185

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209340&d=1737237185

I then moved on to the slave cylinder. I ordered this kit from Modern Drive Line. It is their TKO/TKX external slave setup

https://www.moderndriveline.com/shop/hydraulic-clutch-kits/slave-cylinders/ford-slave/external-hydraulic-slave-kit-tko-4-6l-al-bell/

It fits nice the only downside to this kit is on the TKX the bracket needs to have notches cut into it to clear the webbing on the transmission. Seemed like a better move to modify the bracket vs cutting into the housing. It was 10 minutes with the die grinder.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209341&d=1737237185

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209342&d=1737237185

Cold weather is coming backs so I tried to maximize the last couple days.

[PNWTim]

Looks great Jessie. Definitely a lot going on in the engine compartment. I think Coyotes are standard rotation (clockwise from the front) so you should be OK unless the motor gets wider below what you show in the picture.

[cv2065]

Nice work Jessie! Definitely standing room only in that engine bay. And I thought my header fitment was tight on the driver's side! I still think you'll finish before I do. :)

[Mike.Bray]

That's a lot of yoke showing out f the transmission, are you sure you have the correct length driveshaft?

Man those Coyote's are stuffed in there, I guess you install the header bolts from the bottom?. Installing one is definitely above my skill level. Hats off to you!

[TTimmy]

Tight quarters in that engine compartment - congrats on getting that engine shoehorned in. Well done!

Regarding shifter position, my Mk3 is in the same place in regards to the frame. Since mine is a 302 it is in the “forward” of the two rear options on my TKO. With the supplied shifter’s radical angle everything ends up in a good place. Any further back and my arm gets jammed up against the seat. Hard to tell but here’s some photos:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209252&d=1737127385

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209254&d=1737127385

[cv2065]

That's a lot of yoke showing out f the transmission, are you sure you have the correct length driveshaft?

I agree with Mike. Might want to verify with FFR.

[gbranham]

That's definitely the wrong driveshaft. That's the driveshaft I have in my IRS/TKX/427W setup. Before I switched to SBF from Coyote, I had a longer driveshaft that came with my kit, and it was longer than my current driveshaft by about the same amount of yoke you have showing there. I think you have the SBF/TKX/IRS driveshaft.

Greg

[460.465USMC]

It's definitely tight on the drivers side. Really only have a couple of mm. I would assume some contact when the engine torques but we will see.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209337&d=1737237082

Congrats on the drivetrain install! Yep. It's one. Tight. Fit. So glad I had a local F5 builder help me shoehorn it into place on my Roadster. My driver's side looked similar to yours. I had the TKO and the Gen 3, but I didn't have nearly that much driveshaft exposed.

Squeezing this motor in is one of those experiences you don't forget. As they say, "If you know. You know". Great work!

[Blitzboy54]

Thanks gang. That’s why I have a build thread. Great way to double check. I’ll reach out to FFR.

[Nigel Allen]

It's definitely tight on the drivers side. Really only have a couple of mm. I would assume some contact when the engine torques but we will see.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209337&d=1737237082

My Coyote was as tight as that. 5 years on the road, with some decent canings. No sign of any contact with the upper foot boxes to date. Engine does not seem to move around at all. Good news

Cheers,

Nige

[Blitzboy54]

Driveshaft update

The forum remains undefeated. I reached out to FFR and they confirmed I have the wrong drive shaft. I have an 8 inch and need a 10 inch. Replacement is on the way, so thanks everyone for looking out.


Coyote Wiring

I got started on the coyote control pack wiring. As I was laying everything out I noticed I have a problem with the alternator cable on the Ron Francis harness. The instructions say to route the cable under the engine mount to keep it safe from the header. As you can see in this picture if I go that way I come up about 4 inches short. I have to figure out what to do next. I think I am going to use a 2 wire bus bar. I will terminate it there and run a new longer line to the alternator.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209406&d=1737410571

I am using Autometer gauges so I needed to run the tach adapter for the Coyote. The instructions are clear that you need to tap into the purple tach wire that feeds all 8 cylinders.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209411&d=1737410659

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209410&d=1737410659

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209409&d=1737410659

I ran some clamps down the front of the passenger footbox and connected the starter wires. You can also see the orange fan pigtail. Once the radiator is installed I will splice this into the RF connector.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209407&d=1737410571

The coyote control pack harness is installed and integrated.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209408&d=1737410571

[Blitzboy54]

Tight quarters in that engine compartment - congrats on getting that engine shoehorned in. Well done!

Regarding shifter position, my Mk3 is in the same place in regards to the frame. Since mine is a 302 it is in the “forward” of the two rear options on my TKO. With the supplied shifter’s radical angle everything ends up in a good place. Any further back and my arm gets jammed up against the seat. Hard to tell but here’s some photos:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209252&d=1737127385

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209254&d=1737127385

I appreciate the pics! I am going to do a short straight shifter at or near the front. I want it where it would be if it were a modern car. I think the mid shift is too close because I have a screen right there. Looking forward to figuring it all out.

[Blitzboy54]

Power Steering

I routed the power steering hoses. I was pleasantly surprised I could get both of them run to the passenger side of the engine and still clear the battery. I am pretty sure I am in good shape here but if the collective see's something I missed please let me know. :)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209508&d=1737668447

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209505&d=1737668378

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209504&d=1737668378

I do have something I need to figure out. I would like to add steering rack limiters before I put the radiator in. However I don't have tires for my rims. It doesn't make sense to use the temp wheels. I think I might try to simulate the tires somehow. Maybe foam? I'm open to ideas.

Factory Five came through and got me the right drive shaft. This looks a lot better.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209507&d=1737668447

[gbranham]

Delete...double post