M22 Cobra Build - Tailpipe mock-up/ rear sheet metal

[M22_COBRA]

Got all my RP stainless parts dropped in and couldn't be happier with how the clutch arm turned out. The cable pulls nice and straight, and the effort really isn't much more than my 2014 Tacoma. Its a great work around for me where I want to run a coyote and a cable while staying above the rail.
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Also I got to powder coat the top half of my challenge coin holder in the dash, all I can say is it looks like it belongs and fills the extra gauge pod in a very cool way. The part clamshells to the removable panel and the cross bolt holes pin the outer and inner halves together.
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Lastly, The CAI off the coyote just kind of hangs there and has the tendency to just wobble around since it has no support. In my case with the Bullitt intake its is a a slightly different angle. All this makes the filter at max compression on the straightener tube slightly touch the drivers F panel. I can tell that driving around its gonna rub, touch, and potentially make a tapping noise. So I decided to make a bracket that would help contain it. Drew this up and after a mockup in PETG I swapped to ASA and printed it out. I'll use heat stake threaded inserts and run the fasteners thru the F panel. Originally I had the support underneath but after some trials and testing it actually fits better and is more secure with the top compression support style better. The shape of the filter and the matching angle on the bracket wont allow it to fall, its easier to swap filters, and it kind of makes the top of the filter it pull air thru the F panel cutout vs the engine bay.
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[M22_COBRA]

Had an hour last night and it wasn't freezing so I decided to fill the KRC integrated power steering reservoir and check for leaks and bleed the system. Good news no leaks. but I have some questions that need investigation.

1. What belt tension should this be set to? I got it just beyond hand ability to slip the belt / pulley due to how the fasteners hide behind the 5 spoke pulley. It "feels" right based on previous experience, but this ain't no R07 so I don't really have any thing to go from with confidence.

2. With the KRC integrated reservoir what distance off the cap top / depth is everyone running cold?

[gbranham]

I was always told to set serpentine belt tension to the point you can still twist the belt 90 degrees on its longest run with some effort, but not herculean effort.

Or as some guys here on the forum would say...tighten it until it breaks, then back it off a smidge. :)

Greg

[M22_COBRA]

I was always told to set serpentine belt tension to the point you can still twist the belt 90 degrees on its longest run with some effort, but not herculean effort.

Or as some guys here on the forum would say...tighten it until it breaks, then back it off a smidge. :)

Greg

Thanks brother, appreciate it. I think we are on the same page.
Any idea for cold fluid level?

[M22_COBRA]

Cooling reservoir and lines are all in and gone thru nut and bolt check, ready for coolant. Really happy how the PC turned out, ended up doing the CAI tube while I was adding the CAI f-panel support. Going back to add LED's & wiring in the foot boxes Then the engine compartment LED mood lighting side quest.

I have what I think is a original 68 "possibly" GT350 air cleaner. It was given to my grandad from FORD as a pre production sample to weld and fabricate the studs on the lower. It was one of the first projects that got the family business serious traction with FORD and Ford Service. At the end of the project they told Grandad to just keep it. It sat in his garage till he passed in 2013 at the age of 97 after BEATING leukemia at 93. I later found out that at one time this also was put on my uncle Jack's Roadrunner at some point to go racing. So its got some history.
I think its a GT350 because the top is like the GT500KR with the casting marks and the double wing nut but the lower is for a single 4 barrel. I'm going to work some magic with this to make the compartment have a little pop. I have already printed the mounts in ASA and used knurled heat staked inserts to bolt it to the lower. Stay tuned.

VIDEO -> https://www.instagram.com/reel/DVkPJeHADmY/?igsh=cm54YjZoejJsNw==

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[M22_COBRA]

Got my custom dash faces back with a ring swap from Speed hut. They did a really great job. I wanted some really small logos incorporated / logos for the two biggest races I have been apart of winning. The rings were swapped to the revolution black rings at no charge. Super happy how it came out, cant wait to get the column signal installed and the wheel to get the full effect. These are the mini milestones that help you push forward as I was getting bogged down in the slog of mundane stuff. Nice to see a glimpse of the finished product.

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[CW_MI]

Very cool on the gauges, they turned out really nice.
I actually called Speedhut yesterday about making some changes to my gauges, I want to change the dial color and font.

[M22_COBRA]

Got the dash fully assembled and the column turn signal integrated 100%. Again, really happy with the finished product. Everything works 100% as far as I can tell.
Moving on to temporarily mount the rear sheet metal in the back so I can put the body on. The real goal is to get the body on and place the seats in the proper position. I have the breeze mounts and once i get that done first start is not far behind.

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[M22_COBRA]

A lot has happened since I made an entry, making this for myself for record keeping.
Got my Tilton's installed with stainless flex lines and banjos. I need to bleed it the old fashioned way, the pressure bleeder method is not releasing something in the master. I can hear it squishing, but the pedal is still pretty firm after initial travel.
I also settled in on my cable clutch position, where I added the firewall bearing and kept my fork extension. I made a post on this in the main discussion for others to find. Basically the firewall adjuster will be good for future adjustment and let me set the phase of the cable in a more favorable spot. The marginally earlier engagement point that the fork without the extension provided, was not worth the increased effort so I went back to the extension. The cable packages nicer also, stayed with the E302 ford cable which is the longer variant.


Broke out the tail pipes and mocked them up. Obviously waiting on installing the body till I lock down the isolators under the car. I can not confirm or deny that I made engine noises once these were on a time or two lol. I will likely safety wire them up for first start.... Which is next!
Just have to fill the car with oil, coolant, and fuel.... check for leaks...nut and bolt check one last time on fittings... and fire it off! Exciting times.
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I did get the rear sheet metal all placed with temp rivets. Those things have more than paid for themselves on the build, I highly recommend them. I will remove rear panels for first start for ease of access to the pressure regulator and leak check. I just need to have capability to put the body on after first start.
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Still fooling with the under hood lighting and some floor board components that I wanted, but that post is for another day.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Looking really nice, and I especially like the modular dash!

Regarding you front sidepipe hangers:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227968&d=1775750414

You might find that they are more effective if you go all the way out to the header to sidepipe flange...and put a jamb nut on that turnbuckle too :) Here's how I do them (this is a J-pipe but same/same).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181943&d=1679580697

Carry on!

Jeff