M22 Cobra Build - Tailpipe mock-up/ rear sheet metal [Archive]

M22_COBRA

06-20-2024, 12:05 PM

Looks like its finally my turn! Delivery is scheduled for 6/28-29/24

Post Covid you start to change your perspective on things, one of which was time with Dad. Decided that this was a great way to build something that would last beyond our time together and that meant something. I sold my SRT-4 that I loved and saved up for the complete kit for over 2 years.
The plan is to make this a cruiser as up in Northern Michigan we have nice windy roads with incredible views, no racing or auto-x, those days are behind me just a spirited run thru the gears is all I want. M22 is the scenic road that runs all over the west side of the state and if you have never been to Northern Michigan its BEAUTIFUL. We moved here after being down south for so long decided to go home. But I refused to live in Metro Detroit where I'm from...NO. After being southernized I need my space. Luckily the job lets me work 100% remote as long as I'm in state they don't care.
When I pitched the idea to my wife and she gave me the green saying its the perfect car for up here and it blew my mind. I was waiting for a outright no and hoping for a maybe someday.

Short summary of me and my experience. I worked on cars growing up, I got into engineering and made a career out of it, spent 15 years in the top series in NASCAR as an design engineer, spent many years in the lower levels (Truck, Xfinity, Arca) doing everything from setup plate, tire changer, crew chief, mechanic, shock and spring guy, aero tech, ect.... you get the idea, Ive done every job except drive the hauler and the Sunday car. Now I work on design items for the government, transportation projects, and the IMSA GT3 Corvette. I stay busy.

The car is fairly basic:
Complete kit
Coyote - TKO 600 (going to Forte for the full setup)
2018 IRS donor
2018 donor Rears
3.55 IRS gear
Manual steering
Manual brakes
dual roll bar - I love my wife
Color - TBD or is it????
17" Halibrand wheels 9x10 - got them on sale which is what pushed me to go NOW

I've done the chassis and body bucks. I just have to run the last screws in on the body buck and we are up. I was trying to save room in the garage till its time. The wife is forfeiting our spots so I can do this so.... keeper! The IRS was delivered a while ago and I have that torn down and everything is cleaned. Lets see if I can figure how to post photos... May do the caliper repaint this weekend if I get bored. I think just basic black front and rear on calipers will suffice. Also been hoarding tools off marketplace, garage sales, ect. Got my brake flaring tools, riv gun, low profile jack, ect.... Overall just getting the garage ready for the process.
I do have some race parts from a previous life as my plan is to sprinkle those in the build of the car so from the color to the components it tells a story. Stay tuned on that one. I've got a plan for some Breeze parts after reading the other build pages and doing some dash upgrades.

My plan is to concentrate on good craftsmanship vs perfection. While I have experience with race cars and can design anything, I know I am missing a lot of knowledge for this endeavor and look forward to learning. Also trying to do this on a budget and doing more with less without cutting corners be a focus. Been reading the build threads every night since 2022 and feel I have a good notebook of reminders but I think this thread will help me get engaged with the community better. CUZ IM GONNA NEED YA'LLS HELP! I can feel it!

Here's the Instagram link, give me a follow and see more photos!
https://www.instagram.com/m22.cobra?igsh=MWZzaWVlZmhpeW40cQ%3D%3D

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bil1024

06-20-2024, 02:11 PM

Congrats, your off to a great start!

M22_COBRA

06-20-2024, 03:05 PM

Reserverd for index & fast finding

M22_COBRA

06-23-2024, 05:29 PM

Spent the day painting the calipers. Figured the gloss black was the way to go with this car. Just feel that I want it to be very understated in that area. Color calipers are very situational in my opinion, and this car just doesn't need them.

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Also spent time setting up my benches, and my new $20 drill press find on Facebook. Still questioning if I should go after that. $100 60 gallon air compressor. I plan on eventually painting the car. I don't know. Maybe I'll wait.

With what time was left today, cleaned up the garage pre-drilled the holes in the body buck so I can put the legs on and sat and read some build threads. Can't wait for his thing to start.

M22_COBRA

06-28-2024, 08:50 AM

OK so, I wont get it delivered today as planned. But tomorrow.....Tomorrow is GONNA BE A BIG DAMN DAY!
For now all I can do is sit and daydream while I stare at the "ultrasound" photos that the nice folks at FFR sent me.
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On another note I did pre-emptively go get a set of the Moog K772 ball joints just in case mine are shhhh. I don't really see marking on them that designates K772, but it does have 5485 on the housing, seems odd (maybe I goofed the # order there) I've read enough to know what a pain these are, but maybe with a wire wheel I'll be in luck with the stockers and the Moog's can go back. Pockets aren't deep enough for the Howe. Besides we won lots a races on Moog's so WTH, we will see what we get.

Also unpacked two new tools from amazon. My budget Rivnut pliers and my budget knockoff Eastwood brake line flare. Not exactly cheap but definitely less expensive than the name brand and to be honest the quality is pretty good. The flare tool is probably not as subjectively "smooth" as the Eastwood but it has all the same dies and they look nice. At the end of the day I'm ramming steel into NiCop and it just has to be straight and not leak. I'll try the brake flare first thing once the kit arrives and do a slight pressure test. If I'm not impressed, Amazon Prime is a beautiful thing.
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gbranham

06-28-2024, 08:57 AM

scspeedster

06-28-2024, 09:09 AM

Looks like Shipping buddies . . . That's my truck next to your cobra -

M22_COBRA

06-28-2024, 09:55 AM

I did see that one and was curious, thanks for the input. If this one I got doesn't pan out I may definitely be headed that direction next.

M22_COBRA

06-28-2024, 09:58 AM

Looks like Shipping buddies . . . That's my truck next to your cobra -

I saw that and wondered if the owner would see it being that this is in the Roadster side. Congrats!

M22_COBRA

07-01-2024, 09:19 PM

Well car was delivered Saturday. It rained just as we tried to unload. To make matters worse the truck couldn't make it into the neighborhood. So your type 2 kind of fun was had. We pushed and pulled the car on my chassis dolly about 1/2 mile up and down hills via the Tacoma. But got it in the garage safe and sound. The 600# HF wheels seemed excessive but now they were a life saver getting it transported.

The past few days I've just spent doing the inventory. Most everything is in the kit, like I'm shocked actually. I'm only missing the air filter, some random build seals, and a piece of fuel line???
The drive shaft size gave me a laugh. I figure I have another 3 hours and the inventory will be done. Just trying to get organized before I pull the body off and get to work.
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Windsor

07-02-2024, 02:32 PM

The drive shaft size gave me a laugh.

"It must be cold outside!" ;)

M22_COBRA

07-03-2024, 08:10 AM

"It must be cold outside!" ;)

Maybe it has performance anxiety on it's big day? 🤣

Got the inventory done. Only thing on the MIK was some weatherstripping. I'll call that a win. Plan to hit it hard over the "Merica' extravaganza of freedom" this weekend. Just got to get a couple extra hands to come over and help remove the body.

M22_COBRA

07-04-2024, 11:19 AM

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So yesterday I got the body off with the help of my neighbor and his sons. Then started tearing down the aluminum panels and marking the overlaps. For the most part I feel the fit was pretty decent, but some of the joints towards the back of the foot box got a little sloppy, hopefully I won't have to trim them. Sounds like for the most part you shouldn't have to trim at all.
I may have missed the opportunity on the rear while the body was on to mark that 3/16 Gap to the rear aluminum for the bulb seal, but I'm sure I'll have another opportunity.

Today's focus will just be to finish out the aluminum and to start hanging the front suspension. Happy 4th y'all!

M22_COBRA

07-05-2024, 06:17 AM

Got the lowers on and used the washers at the front of the rear position only, the front bushing seemed pretty spot on. But on the DS the rear bushing seemed to need just under 2 washers to the front of the rear leg bushing. With some grease and light encouragement they both fit without bending the tab. Is that normal?
I get "the why" on the washers but the two stacked make it so I can barely see a thread poking thru on at the bottom of the nut chamfer. I know I have full thread but I don't like the lack of extra thread coming thru at full torque. It's not proper. Minimum comfort level for me is usually 2 threads showing, .118" / 3mm.
I feel like my options are get a longer 10.9 bolt or a slightly thinner washer. Since I did have to pull a Happy Gilmore and give it a tap, tap, tappa-roo to squeeze it in there.
I'll probably try the latter first. Thoughts and experience appreciated as always.
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Jeff Kleiner

07-05-2024, 08:42 AM

Looks like your stack of washers are squeezing the bushing. You aren't supposed to squeeze the poly bushings between the frame tabs, they are supposed to pull in and capture only the steel center sleeve.

Jeff

M22_COBRA

07-05-2024, 10:58 AM

Agree Jeff, that one may be on the tight side. Thanks. But If I go with one washer I will definitely put a bend on the tab to close the gap. Here is a closer / better photo for context. I get good movement out of both sides / they aren't smashed, it doesn't spin the bushing in the housing or feel bound, but its not falling to the earth under its own weight either. The bushings were pretty level with the edges of the sleeves which is why I greased them some before install.
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M22_COBRA

07-08-2024, 06:23 AM

Good progress this weekend. I overcame the LCA shim by taking a 3/8 thin fender washer and opening it up to 1/2". It was a little smaller than the stock FFR washer on OD but as Jeff said we are after the metal to metal contact on the center of the bushing so I put it between the stock washer and the LCA and the show rolls on.

Next I got started on the UCA's. Not sure if they have started assembling these in the kit at the factory and left it all loose but mine were together. So now I can only put them on the wrong side with the BJ's upside down :rolleyes:. Pieces look nice and the PC on the BJ receivers look pretty clean. Not sure when they went away from the gold zinc but with the black PC and my MOOG K882's they literally threaded in by hand.

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Figured I would post my obligatory did I get it right photo before I pop the spindles on. Survey Says????
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Got the Koni's unpacked and started that process, no assembly drama there except while sliding the outer sleeve over the body it was being stubborn and then gave way and I pinched the hell out of my finger. Got pinched between the small snap ring like flange on the body and the threaded sleeve. Beware.
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Once I got the first assembly together I wanted to check the mount gaps. The front lowers were both 1.54", and the small shims were both about 0.412". Subtract the heim and this leaves me with 0.0285" gap. I think I can overcome this with a 0.030" washer between the chassis and the spacer. The upper is another story. The left is 1.97" the right measures 1.92", the stack with two large .6875" spacers and the hiem gives me a 0.09" and 0.15" interference. I figured its time to go get some threaded rod and jam nuts and either widen the left slightly, the right a bunch, and feather it in with some grinding on the spacers.

I did read somewhere that people were stacking these spacers to get more offset to the UCA for high caster.?? Were they moving the shock rearward? Interested to hear the groups thoughts and previous exp. I'm a manual rack with no intent on PS or auto cross.

Spent the rest of the weekend laying some paint for anti rust purposes. The half shafts look like FFR has applied some sort of black oxide to the center shaft and leaser etched the PN on it. But I have also heard these will rust up if left alone. So since I was painting my front calipers to match the rears I hit the CV's also with some VHT. I also unpacked the front bearings and got those also. MI salt sux, even though we have had multiple opportunities for it to wash out and be gone... That crap is still over in the corner doing pushups waiting to wreck your car. So I paint all the things. Used the box, drilled the stud holes and used a hole saw to drop the top in vs masking everything. Worked well.
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Jeff Kleiner

07-08-2024, 06:33 AM

Figured I would post my obligatory did I get it right photo before I pop the spindles on. Survey Says????

Survey says...hard to tell since you didn't attach a photo :)

Did you check/set the rebound adjustment while assembling the shocks?

If you are going manual steering you will not be going into the higher caster range so there is no need to alter the spacers.

Jeff

M22_COBRA

07-08-2024, 06:54 AM

Survey says...hard to tell since you didn't attach a photo :)

Did you check/set the rebound adjustment while assembling the shocks?

If you are going manual steering you will not be going into the higher caster range so there is no need to alter the spacers.

Jeff

Patience ;) lol

I'm typing on the PC, posting, and then adding the photos via phone right after with an edit. Its easier to manage photos, just not instant.
Rebound adjustment? I'll have to look into that one I wasnt aware I had to do that. Good catch.

M22_COBRA

07-08-2024, 07:41 AM

Posting this here for myself... Per Jeff
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?20313-how-do-you-adjust-Koni-s

"Here is the process:

With the shock off of the car and spring removed pry the black cap off of the shock body (it has two pins that press into the body). With the cap removed you will see a little metal button about 1/4" diameter with a rounded top. Push this down while twisting the shaft of the shock (you may have to give the shaft a bit of a wiggle while pushing the button to get it to fully depress). As you twist the shaft while holding the button down you should feel it click into 4 detents. Turning the shaft fully counterclockwise is the softest rebound setting and fully clockwise is the firmest rebound. With the factory FFR springs I recommend going to the softest setting in front and one click up from softest with a 3 or 4 link rear (full soft in back is a little "bouncy" in my opinion). After you have them set to the detent desired release the button (it should pop back up, if not give the shaft a little back and forth until it does). Push the plastic cap back into place, reinstall the spring and you're done."

My kit is IRS & shipped with 500 fronts and 300 rears - Is the recommendation for rebound clicks still full soft front / +1 up from soft rear?

M22_COBRA

07-11-2024, 01:00 PM

Short update:
I got the shocks dialed in to full soft front / +1 rear per the suggestion and procedure above. (Thanks Jeff) Got all my arms fitment dialed in with a diy spreader and shims. Turns out I didn't need to grind much after the spread. Tabs are nice and straight:), travel is smooth. Got the front pieced together and realized my 35mm isn't gonna cut it for the hub nut. Seems to be 36mm or some say 1-3/8" Tomorrows problem. When I make a run into town I'll get the right size socket and probably a crows foot for torquing the UBJ. Next I'll be sanding the caliper some as I crayzed the paint when applying the clear when I got too heavy handed with it. Dummy. Easy fix just frustrating as I should have known better. Its just gonna delay completing the fronts.

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fauxbra5.0

07-11-2024, 08:20 PM

Maybe it has performance anxiety on it's big day? ��

Got the inventory done. Only thing on the MIK was some weatherstripping. I'll call that a win. Plan to hit it hard over the "Merica' extravaganza of freedom" this weekend. Just got to get a couple extra hands to come over and help remove the body.

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M22_COBRA

07-12-2024, 06:10 AM

Faux :D

M22_COBRA

07-15-2024, 09:43 AM

Small wins this weekend. Got the front suspension together and I have moved onto the rear. Which means driving in the studs to the rear hubs first. I did the washer and stud method but the nut(s) were too timed out to continue safely and I didn't buy enough of them. Doh! Oh well back to the hardware store. I got one hub close to done but I'm not gonna strip the threads out to get there. I'll just have to wait.

Got the rear arms assembled and bushings installed. I've been eyeballing EdwardB's hoist install closely as I may have to take the same route. I plan on having Dad up withing a week to be there for rear gear install but I'll still need some "muscle" as I don't need anybody hurt. If I can use the hoist method with an extra set of hands I think I got enough horsepower myself to get it the rest of the way. Stay tuned.

I've been eyeballing sheet metal stuff at the moment. I know everyone recommends the drop trunk, I'd really like to have one ( especially Frank's, his latest video did it for me but I also want his turn signal switch lol ), but I still have some major parts to purchase and I'm on the fence if its the right for me. I got time. I also took some time and did some finish work on the F panels, I still have to add the Rivnuts. My plan is that the panels that show will be polished and clear coated. We used to do this on the rounded Speedway car crush panels and I always liked the look so it was a small item that I wanted for personalization. PC is likely stronger but (shrug). These parts still need some love though. Anything laying flat underbody / floor pan will likely be blacked out but that's tomorrows problem.
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M22_COBRA

07-17-2024, 08:44 AM

Went from Hero to hobo and back to hero again inside 6 hours yesterday. I attempted the one man IRS gear install. After heavy consulting with EdwardB's post I made the attempt with watchet straps and my hoist. Folks.... people ain't lying when they say the IRS gear is tight! I got it nose up watchet at a time and eased it up by the boom.
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Once in position I gave it the right shove and posted the front bolt. This may have been a mistake as the rears are threaded but it was either that or get pummeled by the gear. Then once the front was in I did the RR but the LR was not going to go. It was so out of sorts I just couldn't get it to line up. I had the same thing happen as Edward when I decided to drive the LF in with the damn bushing pin poking out. Had to get creative and use a c clamp on the edge of the sleeve and the back of the chassis and tap the heavily lubed fastener all the way in. That one took almost 45 mins and in the end I still feel I got lucky.
Then came the LR... that thing was left and down from where it needed to be by about 1/16" in both directions which was odd as the other 3 bolts were in. My first thought after conceding defeat and going in for dinner was I will let the bushings settle and make another attempt tomorrow. My second thought was "man if these energy bushings could have a little less energy that would be great to push them around to line up". Then it hit me... "ENERGY, you dummy!"

Story time:
In 2015 when I worked in NASCAR the Gen 6 car was a reskinned COT POS and it only got faster as we did odd things to it. One of those was with the rear ends. Anybody that googles Sam Hornish Charlotte car crab walking will know what I'm talking about. Cars would be offset to make side force and thus more corner speed. They took that away. What we figured out was as you went thru inspection they mandated the cars be set at a specific height and rode on inspection blocks and the body straight. Once inspection was over you got under the car jacked it up and removed the blocks. We induced energy to our truck arm bushings with a watchet strap to make them flex and after inspection we would undo the strap. Why cant I do the same thing now?!?

So after dinner I went back to the Octagon and put a strap around the outside ear of the IRS gear and looped it over the RR main rail (and only the main rail ) and started click at a time. It worked perfect to get that last little encouragement to get it to line up. Hope this helps someone in the future struggling with that last fastener.

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M22_COBRA

07-18-2024, 09:37 AM

This made me chuckle... "Life with non car people"
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M22_COBRA

07-22-2024, 03:55 PM

I'll get to posting the weekend update shortly but I had to tell ya'll about the cool opportunity I had this morning. A friend of mind that is part of Lightbridge Academy who develops the programming for children in 1st to pre kinder care and broadcasts the programming to 150 classrooms, reached out to me. She wanted somebody in racing, or building a car, or somebody that works on cars for a living to come on as a guest speaker, talk about their car, and read a new children's book ("If I Built A Car") about this little boy who uses his imagination to build his dream car. I fit all three and got a great opportunity to talk about what I was building, what do for a living, and how the boy in the book is not all that different from all of us building our cars. I explained that we get to decide the color, the engine, and all the cool things that we want in our builds, ect. They asked what the best part was about building my car, and I said the satisfaction you get from figuring out a problem using your imagination and creativity. Just a really cool opportunity to use my FFR Cobra to possibly inspire the next gen to build theirs.
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M22_COBRA

07-22-2024, 04:12 PM

Weekend progress went well. I got the studs on the rear hubs run in all the way after a trip to hardware. The multi waster and 1/4-20 standard hex nut method worked well. Just make sure you use asm lube and swap out the nuts every other stud and don't go HAM with the impact or you will need more washers and nuts than required. The rear arms went in without too much hassle. BUT the LR upper, I swear that one wasn't going to fit. It was square to the front mount but off at an angle I didn't think was possible to work with. I contemplated a call to FFR because wow, she's off!
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Since I'm no quitter I gave it a try by attaching the front and using the spreader, cherry picker and a strap again to lightly encourage it to work the bushing. Ill be... it fit! I was shocked. I don't see any binding or rubber to chassis at the bushing so I think we are good to go. Only concern I have is the front LCA bolts don't show more than a thread. I can get my fingernail on it all around so I know its there. Anyone else find these are a bit short?
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Next up will be reassemble the rear knuckles and hubs.

F500guy

07-23-2024, 09:56 PM

Nice opportunity for the kids, sounds fun!

M22_COBRA

08-02-2024, 03:31 PM

IRS is complete except I need a 5/16 Allen to torque the rear bar at the chassis. No real drama. Just make sure if you are doing a rear bar to do it as you are putting on your rear arms! I didn't realize that it used a new doubler plate and a longer bolt off the front LCA and tow link. Overall I'm pleased with the work and how it turned out. I really am glad I went with the black for the calipers, the black looks sharp.

I did get the rear e-brake cables out and ive been trying to see how I want to route them as I have the E-stopp in hand. I've seen many of the options others have done in the past via other threads. Im considering the LR as the likely leader for position. But I got time to think on it.

Next up is the front rack and front sway bar install. I got the front footbox panel siliconed in and was sure to not bond it at the lower inner leg per the instructions. I'll have dad up this weekend and know that these two items plus the steering shaft should be enough for us to cover in half a Saturday morning. I was happy to see that I did not have to push out bushings on my rack. Not sure if that is an update or the manual racks never had them installed. It likely the latter. I went thru the bar and rack, paired the hardware, and checked for any got-ya's before I try to do this with a helper. Seems straight forward. Wish me luck.
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M22_COBRA

08-04-2024, 07:57 AM

I'm installing the Wilwood pedal box and the front foot box panel. I have the complete kit, the three master cylinders, and plan on eventually getting the Forte complete external hydraulic clutch with the external slave setup.

The question is, do I have the proper front foot box panel installed. This is the one the car shipped with and but there is another in the loose sheet metal box. Thanks in advance.
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Jeff Kleiner

08-04-2024, 08:36 AM

M22_COBRA

08-04-2024, 08:52 AM

Thanks Jeff!

Mike.Bray

08-04-2024, 09:47 AM

Check with Forte on the clutch master cylinder as the 3/4" bore supplied by Factory Five is probably wrong and will need to be replaced. I think Frote's system uses a 13/16" bore MC as do most hydraulic throwout bearings.

M22_COBRA

08-04-2024, 12:45 PM

He's on my list too call tomorrow. I'm reading up on older posts but it sounds like I need the 7/8 mc to go with the 7/8 slave. Old posts but likely still very valid. I'm sure Mike kept tuning and it's likely he's at 13/16 as the current release like you said.

M22_COBRA

08-05-2024, 01:24 PM

By chance does anyone have a parts list that has successfully run the FFR 3/4 MC to a external slave? I'd like to consider all options that might be available. Even If I did get a 3/4 slave does it have enough drive to disengage after the clutch wears?

Mike.Bray

08-05-2024, 03:22 PM

On Forte's kit he specifically says a 3/4" master cylinder will not work.

https://fortesparts.com/product/fortes-tko-600-hydraulic-clutch-kit/

M22_COBRA

08-05-2024, 09:05 PM

Yeah I saw that. I understand why. Just wondering if anyone has used the 3/4 with a different setup or are they not using an external slave if they are.

M22_COBRA

08-06-2024, 08:27 PM

Hung up on a new problem, the clutch quadrant stop switch. I can't find it? It's this one here in the manual. Again running hydraulic clutch so I know I won't use the plates for the cable
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I've turned the garage and every box upside down. I looked through the pack list and I can't find it anywhere on the list? I did get two of the brake switches that show mounting underneath the Wilwood pedal box. Is this top switch obsolete now? Does it come with the engine or the PCM which I do not have yet? I do have the two brackets that hold it.
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Upon Further review: it looks like this comes in the Coyote Ford performance pack??

M22_COBRA

08-10-2024, 06:08 PM

Since my last post I've made good progress. I've completed the install of the steering rack. And got the pedal box all installed. Unfortunately, upon further review, I see that the raw edge of the stainless bracket on the engine side rubs the boot of the front master cylinder. I used my Amazon chamfer router and it cleared it like a champ and put a really nice chamfered edge on the part.
It took a few passes but the picture below was the second pass. The stainless gets a little gummy if you get it too hot. Two more smaller passes and it cleaned up 100%. Money well spent.

Been doing a little bit of research on what I want to do for hydraulic setup. I think I'm just going to do my own. I have access to 13/16 master and I'll just pair it with a 7/8 slave, but that's tomorrow's problem.

Today's problem was getting through the steering shaft assembly. Which turned out to not really be a problem at all. I made sure on the firewall bearing that the nasty raw edge that was on there was removed and packed that with some good lithium grease. Took Frank / ie427 garages advice on assembling that shaft and making sure everything was completely loose before you decide to lock it down. 100% spot on. Went together great and got to eyeball where the steering wheel and seat would likely live. Also got to check my fit to the pedals with those heights. I'm really happy with how everything turned out today.

Also got some great shots from last weekend when I had Dad come up and help with the rack install. It's what it's all about in the end, right? PAXTON the shop dog approves. 🐾
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Mike.Bray

08-10-2024, 07:48 PM

I started off going with a manual rack as that's what I was used to and I didn't want the added parts and complexity of power steering. The forum convinced me to go with power steering. In all honestly, every time I drive my car I think how nice it drives with PS and how truly thankful I am for listening to the forum. It is truly a joy to drive.

I kind of wish I had gone with a hydraboost also but that's another story.

Just something to think about.

TXeverydayDad

08-10-2024, 08:30 PM

Good to follow along in your build. I’m pretty much at the same stage with mine.

M22_COBRA

08-11-2024, 07:27 PM

Copy that on PS. I Hear you loud and clear but it's just not what I want. All our hot rods growing up were manual, the only exception was the 79 TA. That had a close ratio box and I always pissed the pump off turning the wheel to far. Dad too...lol.

I placed the order for the ProM hanger and 255 pump today. Pissed the wife off there. So not much has changed. Ha!
Looking forward, the fuel is off in the distance needed to pull the trigger. Edward seemed to speak highly of the unit and I liked the AN setup on it with the return features. Not sure if I need the 255 but who knows if I'll need it. I'll likely end up with a Gen 4 Coyote and who knows what those will need for fuel. I'm not close to ordering yet which is concerning.

Simple question as the manual is moving me to sheet metal. Should I do brake hard-line before or after interior sheet metal? I'll likely use Cleco's so I don't need to run them home permanent. Just wanted to see what others had done. I think I'll be printing some RP place holder parts and brackets to get the brake lines and junction blocks right as I'd like to reuse the factory rear caliper lines and junction blocks. Plus I have my estopp in hand to mount.
Stay tuned, lots to consider.

M22_COBRA

08-13-2024, 04:01 PM

Part of me says keep it simple stupid, the other side the sounds a lot like Gary Bussey and says lets over build it. Ha! Either way the Estopp is a really nice unit!

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egchewy79

08-14-2024, 07:39 AM

M22_COBRA

08-14-2024, 09:35 AM

Thanks for the heads up. I saw that in another post, it was confusing at first. I'll definitely have to remember when I get to wiring. I guess it makes sense since you want the switch depressed on the clutch to activate and you want it off when the brake is applied. Just something Ill have to remember. I fear the wiring portion.

Mike.Bray

08-14-2024, 10:20 AM

I used the neutral switch in the TKX instead of the clutch switch.

M22_COBRA

08-14-2024, 01:57 PM

I'll search thru your build thread Mike, Thanks!

Mike.Bray

08-14-2024, 03:16 PM

I'll search thru your build thread Mike, Thanks!

I might not have documented that. I have the Digital Dawg pushbutton ignition system and it requires a safety input to start. I originally wired it as recommended with the safety going through both the clutch and brake switches. To start the car both the clutch and brake had to be depressed. I didn't like that so I moved the clutch switch wiring to the neutral switch in the transmission. Now to start the car the transmission must be in neutral and the brake pedal must be depressed.

To turn on the ACC 1 or ACC 2 circuit I activate the system with the FOB and press the start button once or twice without the brake depressed.

Hope this makes sense.

M22_COBRA

08-21-2024, 07:53 AM

I got the UCA rear turnbuckles shortened 0.300" each side. I hit the 7.375" measurement on the dot but the male portions are about a 1/32 of a turn from hitting each other and preventing me from gaining more caster. Should I remove 1/8" off one (or both) of the male threaded ends? I'm not really sure where the caster is now or how that's going to effect my other numbers at alignment being maxed out on the rear turn buckle. I don't really want to cut if I don't have to. Been reading multiple threads and some say you should, others don't really get prescriptive on the male portion.
What's everyone else's experience been?
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For now I'm working on getting sheet metal in. Mark, punch, drill, cleco, repeat. Plan is to get all the panels that mate in and temp riveted, polish the engine bay panels that will require it, then eventually silicone and rivet permanently.
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gbranham

08-21-2024, 09:17 AM

When you shorten those UCAs, you need to shave both the turnbuckles and the threaded rods. Don't know why folks have trepidation around this; it's a 5 minute task.

cc2Arider

08-21-2024, 12:06 PM

I agree, it's an easy task...but kinda scary the 1st time because you realize you're modifying known good chassis parts :D

Craig C

M22_COBRA

08-21-2024, 12:28 PM

When you shorten those UCAs, you need to shave both the turnbuckles and the threaded rods. Don't know why folks have trepidation around this; it's a 5 minute task.

"Fast is fine, but accuracy is permanent"

Its an 1/8" not much. I guess I was more concerned with how much extra folks took off the male side / how much was actually needed. Easier to do now vs all together and I need more adjustment when I'm fully assembled.

M22_COBRA

08-21-2024, 08:10 PM

"HE GONE"... Took off an 1/8" with the grinding wheel and can get the rear measurement below 6.5". Should be enough.
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M22_COBRA

08-30-2024, 05:14 PM

I needed a break from the pop rivet polka so I decided to mess with an idea I had. I want to reuse the e-brake bracket that I've cut off since I'm using the electric e-stop. The idea is to use it to reinforce the firewall to the dash bar. Problem is the distance from the dash bar to the firewall is longer than the legs of the e-brake bracket. So I fired up my cad and my 3D printer and started printing some slip on prototypes. These are the first ones, they slip on over the 90° ends of the e-brake bracket. I can't figure if I want to silicone and rivet or permanently Bond the bracket to the firewall for a cleaner look. I'm pretty sure I'll use a 1024 riv nut on the dash bar and run a through bolt on the adapter. Prototype pieces turned out nice and when I put it against the firewall it made it instantly more rigid. It's still super thin and you're going to get a little flex, but I think this is a big improvement. I think going forward I'm going to look at adding some extra clipping points for wire routing. Question I have for y'all is is there anything in this area that this may interfere with later down the road? I think it's high enough that it won't interfere with the coyote wiring harness and the fuel pressure regulator. The finished parts will likely be made out of ASA or CF variant which has a pretty high melting temp.
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M22_COBRA

09-06-2024, 09:38 AM

I got questions...
As I'm working thru the panels I keep going back to the clutch in my mind to figure out what I want to do there. Original plan was a Forte hydraulic setup but I have not bought anything at this point, I have the Wilwood PB, and remember going coyote. I'm considering a clutch cable but don't have any of the FFR parts for that setup, besides I have heard the FFR cable is not good. Trying to control a cost that I'm not really feeling is a necessity. $400+ vs $160 is enough to make me consider it.

1. If I was to go to a cable setup what Ford cable should I get? Ford Performance Parts M-7553-C302 is what I keep pulling down from other posts but the posts are 2014-ish or older. Is Forte the best place? I have a local performance hotrod parts store in town ( I'm way out so im surprised we have a performance store tbh lol)
2. If I was to go cable what is my best bet for a quadrant setup? FFR? Is there something better?

Thoughts and opinions welcome.

Jeff Kleiner

09-06-2024, 10:13 AM

M7553-E302 cable. When you ordered if you specified the #16920 "manual clutch release" the Wilwood pedal box should have come with the components to configure it for cable operation.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203669&d=1725635551

I've used the Wilwood box and Ford cable on a Coyote with TKX and it works well.

Jeff

203669

M22_COBRA

09-06-2024, 11:04 AM

Yeah that's the parts I'm needing but they are not in my kit (because I didnt order them). I ordered the hydraulic option which was really just an extra 3/4" MC and resi, no throw-out or slave. Worst case I have an extra brake MC.
I am not finding the 15613 parts in the catalog off the FFR website either. Next up would be a call / email inquiry.

Jeff Kleiner

09-06-2024, 12:55 PM

Yeah that's the parts I'm needing but they are not in my kit (because I didnt order them)...

Well, that kind of explains it...you won't have parts that you didn't buy!

Jeff

John Ibele

09-06-2024, 01:29 PM

FWIW, I do have the cable setup assembly FFR15613 on my car along with the Ford clutch cable, and I have no regrets about going this route. Clutch action is definitely the heaviest I've encountered but it's also something I don't even think about any more. It's very smooth when properly set up.

Key is having the firewall adjuster precisely located on the front of the footbox so the cable aligns EXACTLY with the recessed channel or groove that accepts the cable in the quadrant. I had that responsibility fall on me due to a redesign to the quadrant assembly which FFR had to make when their MK4 first came out. That meant my frame no longer matched the new quadrant location, and necessitated drilling out a new location for the adjuster in the frame. But, worked out okay. Presumably that all lines up automatically now. But definitely check for good alignment and zero contact with any potential wear points.

I also rounded the edges at the top of the groove just in case the cable contacted that edge at all as it engaged with the quadrant. No signs of wear at all so far, but only a few k miles in.

Mike.Bray

09-06-2024, 01:47 PM

FWIW I built a 32 Ford one time with a cable actuated clutch. It was "okay" IMO and a little heavy. The next car I built had a much bigger engine and heavier clutch so I went to a hydraulic throwout bearing. Ever since then I've used Tilton HTBs on all manual cars I've built including my MKIV with a Ram HDT clutch. The actuation is soft and smooth as silk. Seriously, it's hard to describe how nice using the clutch is in my car, it's a pure joy to drive.

Mike

M22_COBRA

09-06-2024, 02:04 PM

M22_COBRA

09-06-2024, 02:06 PM

I also rounded the edges at the top of the groove just in case the cable contacted that edge at all as it engaged with the quadrant. No signs of wear at all so far, but only a few k miles in.

For sure, Frank gave the same good advice in a recent video. Good practices never go out of style. Thank you!
So you were the guinea pig on the Mk4 swap from the single shear quadrant? Glad it all worked out in the end.

I think there is a quadrant for sale somewhere on the forum I'll dig up. I think this would be a good place to save some $$ (so I can spend it elsewhere)
I'll get good use out of everything they sent in the kit anyway extra resi, clamps, ect, and now a spare master.

Mike.Bray

09-06-2024, 02:41 PM

You got the 13/16" MC on that setup?

Tilton 6100 series HTB with a Tilton 13/16" master cylinder.

John Ibele

09-07-2024, 12:40 PM

So you were the guinea pig on the Mk4 swap from the single shear quadrant? Glad it all worked out in the end.

Yep, super fun :). Not quite as fun as the 40 hrs spent in the School of Hard Knocks learning how to install rear gears and get the pattern dialed in, but everyone’s got their thing somewhere with these builds! All part of the adventure.

M22_COBRA

09-09-2024, 06:02 PM

Got the Ford Cable in today. I don't have any adjustable lock at the firewall like most folks. I also remember Frank saying that you either need the adjustment bolt down off the bottom or at the firewall but not both. So I'm looking at the firewall and it's got a exact matching hole that matches to the Ford part. Is it that simple and I just run a fastener / rivet to it? Or do I need to get another part?
Bopping between the coyote instructions, the regular manual, it's a little unclear. And without buying the manual clutch off the bat I'm likely missing a part.?? Thx

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M22_COBRA

09-10-2024, 01:23 PM

Feels like 1 fastener / pop rivet is a bit sketch even if the internals are in tension and mounted to the standoff?? Maybe I'll nut and bolt that one and it wont be an issue. Jury is still out for me

M22_COBRA

09-13-2024, 09:44 AM

So I pulled the trigger on going with a cable clutch versus hydraulic. Got a great used part from jimstone, thanks, Jim! I'll have to get the SS clutch switch sheet metal parts or fab my own.
Then I busted out my $40 Amazon chamfering tool. If you don't have one of these and you're doing one of these builds, it's really handy. The thicker laser cut parts are a little rough and always require a little finesse to make a nicer build. This tool is nice because it can do chamfers and radius edges. I use the radius edge tool to blend the sharp corner that faces the cable. Less chance of snapping the cable and wearing it over an edge long term. Came out great and I'm really happy.
Continuing on with interior sheet metal, still have a lot left and I have a big weekend of doing just that ahead. Really stoked!
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Mike.Bray

09-13-2024, 10:46 AM

FWIW I ended up not using my clutch switch. For my start interlock circuit I used the brake switch and neutral switch in the TKX.

M22_COBRA

09-13-2024, 11:06 AM

FWIW I ended up not using my clutch switch. For my start interlock circuit I used the brake switch and neutral switch in the TKX.

Interesting, I'll have to look thru your thread on that. Thanks.

Mike.Bray

09-13-2024, 11:40 AM

Interesting, I'll have to look thru your thread on that. Thanks.

I'm not sure I documented anything about that in my build thread. Originally I used the clutch & brake switches as my start interlock into the Digital Guard Dawg (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dgd-pbs-i-o)pushbutton start module. I ended up not liking it for two reasons:

For this system to work you have to have the interlock engaged for both start and stop.

I have more faith in the neutral switch in the TXK than I do in the clutch switch or even the clutch itself.

So far I've been pretty happy with it this way.

Now about that sequential shifter I saw lol

M22_COBRA

09-13-2024, 12:27 PM

I've got a sequential shifter, its called my right hand! lol. 95% of the time it never misses a shift 100% of the time. lol
The push button seemed like it could get broken over time (at least on the clutch travel I saw). Yeah, I'll reach out when I get to that point, might be a nice safe and fool proof option.

Mike.Bray

09-13-2024, 03:01 PM

I seriously doubt I'll do this but it is cool.

https://s1sequential.com/?currency=USD&fbclid=IwY2xjawFKoh9leHRuA2FlbQIxMAABHVYBLZ3CdYnxJ eCVqwTLVYkCtzBnpWETiJRd4UlFXHjQsWUI2jEOuEhOVw_aem_ Y1zAAn3ssNzd80JarW_1rw

Mike.Bray

09-13-2024, 03:03 PM

The push button seemed like it could get broken over time (at least on the clutch travel I saw). Yeah, I'll reach out when I get to that point, might be a nice safe and fool proof option.

If I was doing it again I would do a keyed switch to turn everything on and a button for the starter. I would interlock the starter button with the brake and transmission neutral switch. Simple but still safe.

JMD

09-14-2024, 02:51 PM

FWIW I ended up not using my clutch switch. For my start interlock circuit I used the brake switch and neutral switch in the TKX.

I was planning to use the neutral switch on mine, but after operating the car with only the clutch switch I don't see why I would need it. I think using either one or the other is perfectly safe...pick which you prefer. Both is always a good idea, but for practical use I don't think it's really necessary.

JMD

09-14-2024, 02:54 PM

M22_COBRA

09-15-2024, 08:45 AM

Thanks JMD. Yeah NO heaters, AC, Defrost, maybe not even a glove box. With the new changes I put in those mounts they are low profile and have wire clipping points so I don't have to have wires on the dash or the firewall. I will say the dash will be modular plated. This way I can remove the gauge clusters on a pig tail and pull the units out.

M22_COBRA

09-17-2024, 10:48 AM

Big weekend of Fab. Got the e-brake closeout and the PS footbox done and I'm starting to move on to the DS foot box. I think it turned out nice.
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For those of you that saw my other post / question you know I found a 2020 Bullitt mustang Gen 3 15K mile dropout and drug that thing home! I looked like a Top Fuel Tacoma going down the freeway.
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I'm in process of taking it apart in the truck bed as I couldn't put it in the bed tailpipe first. Just wasn't gonna be safe having that much load at the back. So I'm removing the headers, tranny, clutch...... and then I'll cut the pallet and get the cherry picker close enough to pick up the engine. This thing is super clean. Big shoutout to Jordan at Domestic Performance Recyclers, great guy, clean shop.
Got lots of parts for sale from the flywheel back but that's the deal. Hopefully I can make some coin back on those parts as they are also in top shape.
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The engine itself is so awesome, I'm beyond excited. Takes a lot of pressure off since I didn't know if I was gonna go gen4 gen3, what am I gonna do for exhaust, the aftermarket hasn't caught up.... Its more than I wanted to take on so I'm glad I can confidently say its GEN 3 and lets go to work.

M22_COBRA

09-28-2024, 04:09 PM

I'm working on flooding the valve train at the moment but before I get there I'm draining any ruminant oil out and putting a new filter on. I have a setup to pump oil through the oil sending unit sensor. But I've caught a snag.
What thread is the oil sending unit sensor? It looks like M12 x1.5 or ORB but most of the things around are saying it's 1/4 npt which doesn't fit. This is a gen 3. I also realized that my coyote kit is missing the adapter from the engine to the T block. Any help is appreciated.
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Update: I've ordered a -6an to 12x1.5 adapter. Hopefully this corrects it, I don't have pitch gauges so its hard to tell. I don't remember seeing anywhere that gen3 has a different thread in this location. Stay tuned

M22_COBRA

10-04-2024, 06:24 AM

Short update on priming the coyote. Yes, the 12x1.5 AN port adapter on my GEN 3 Coyote works off the oil sending sensor to hook up my priming setup. The instructions call out NPT adapters but they don't exactly say what they are adapting to with regard to thread. Again, I'm missing the 12x1.5 adapter in my kit so it was an easy oversight.
With the Cams and upper heads oiled ( ran a few cycles / turned the engine over 3-4 times ) I can rest easy it wont corrode while I wait to install and fire up. I'll just treat it like my generator and give it a service run every month for piece of mind.
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Back to panels I am fitting my DS box. This side is a little off from the factory. The tops and sides are right where then need to be but the lower corner off the DS tunnel are not great. I have a significant gap like some have had in the past and the upper inside panel needs a small trim to remove the overhang. This leaves me to the free floating gap at the bottom. So I made up a CAD part from the 4" tube and got the slope correct and made a cheap pla part to try. Not too bad. I may try and use this as a nesting die and bend up some 0.040" or I can reprint this in nylon-12 CF and just bond it in there with silicone. The goal is to give the vertical free float panel a stop and help plug the gap for the silicone. The panel doesn't move much once temp riveted to the rest of the panels but it flexes at the bottom and the gap is huge. This should close that area out. Id pull the lower in but the top refuses to move and has no give, and the floor is proper with the tunnel and the other bits. I know this has been seen before on other builds. I just don't want to get crazy thick as I know the throttle pedal gets real close post carpet and shielding. Should be cutting the shielding pattern, polishing the panel, and working on the pedal install next.
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M22_COBRA

10-08-2024, 04:05 PM

I spent the weekend putting thermal barrier in the DS foot box. Didn't go too bad. All the other parts that will be installed later in the build are all ready to go.
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I thought it would be best per the recommendation of the forum to get the Coyote pedal installed..... This is where the fun begins. The cutting went fine, I got a little aggressive on the upper ear but not too bad. I may be conservative on the side that nests to the bar on the vehicle inner. Per what others have seen the lower hole lines up, but the upper ear hole is off 3/8", and hitting the shaft, and the inside surface is just touching the inner chassis bar with the circular proud rib. The body is also hitting the foot box pedal cross bar in the front. In the end it very clear the entire thing wants to go up about 1/4". The bracket cant go up without re drilling the fire wall, and the lower (lower is no big deal). The bracket also has no slots (wish they added this) and due to the shape you cant move the upper hole down on bracket more than 1/8" because its into the radius. Dont forget if you too high you cant get the connector on the throttle as the SS master mount will block you.

Sitting here... Trying to figure out the best play.
1. cutting the bar is out.... BAD!
2. Ive see Edward's plate, it has potential but I need some plate stock
3. I could try to slot the hole and cut more off the side at the circular rib
4. Spacers.... not my favorite idea.
5. cut the bracket at the top radius and re weld it a material thickness lower effectively raising the mount and re drilling the lower hole.
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Opinions welcome.

M22_COBRA

10-09-2024, 08:55 AM

I sat in front of the foot box for about 3 hours thinking on what to do, I'm sure we have all done it lol. What came to me in the final hour as the best course of action was to redrill the firewall and raise the bracket. I didn't want to eclipse holes so I am going to use a larger 3/16 rivet .25" grip which uses a smaller hole and provides adequate offset to the existing hole. The bracket ended up needing 3/8" vertically. Its trapped by the MC bracket, firewall, inner panel flange and its still bolted to the original hole in the bottom (added new mating hole on the chassis side). I can barely get it out or in position, I don't know how this would fail and come loose on the road. The result is plenty of room & clearance everywhere. I haven't run the pop rivet yet, I will add washers on the backside to take up the extra length.
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The end result seems pretty legit but I haven't run it home yet. Trying to figure if I want to chop the bottom per the instructions and flip or leave it down. Either way under full stroke it has 3/8"-1/2" clearance to the tightest spot on the pedal to the inner panel. The pedal is planar with the edge of the 1"x1" but clear to sheet metal ( I installed the upper to check.) Thoughts on that?
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M22_COBRA

10-15-2024, 09:07 PM

Finally ran the throttle pedal home. Happy with the end result, it would be nicer to have a smidge more room but that's just this car from what I understand.
Since then I've been going back and forth adding thermal mat and riveting in panels. Hindsight 20/20 I would have cut the thermal pads before I installed but it's not that bad. I do recommend two tools that help the install of the thermal deadening. #1 Amazon trim tool kit which will be useful for padding and getting sharp and stuffed corners with the carpet.
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#2 is a high heat gun. Mine goes to 800+F and I can dial the heat in to help it conform to an odd corner or stick to a edge.
I also made my own close out panel for the bottom. The gap was just way too big and I was afraid of the structural integrity without it. Is I rolled the mail around the 4" tube and made a right angle. Worked great.
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Still have some more thermal to add in the PS box but the the result was exactly what I was after in the engine Bay. Clean, slightly polished, and sealed nicely.
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M22_COBRA

12-28-2024, 08:19 AM

gbranham

12-28-2024, 11:03 AM

Can you look in through the filler neck hole in the tank and see how much clearance you have between the pump and the floor of the tank? I have the same hanger, and now I'm curious. I installed mine and didn't give it another thought.

cv2065

12-28-2024, 11:11 AM

I have the pro m hanger and the complete kit FFR fuel cell and have a question. I have been on hiatus for work in and vacation but I had some time to get back on the project with the fuel system. On assembly it was a bit tricky to get the hanger and the pump in after a small trim to the opening per the instructions, but it's in.
On assembly it seems the unit in the full installed position feels really tight vertically, almost compressed. I have no other adjustment. If I raise the pump in the hanger, the sock won't have enough "grab" on the pump to stay installed. My fear is there is not enough "curtain" area under the pump and at full song it could be restricted. Any thoughts?

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It should just be hanging in the tank and certainly not tight or compressed. Did you get it fully into the sump? if you look through the filler neck hole on the side with a flashlight you should be able to tell. Take the rubber fitting out of course.

When in the sump, the hanger is relatively close to the inside of the sump wall. If you have the sock facing the sump wall instead of the opposite direction, it can feel a little tight as well. Best bet is to turn it around so the sock can unfold into the sump instead of being bunched up.

M22_COBRA

12-28-2024, 01:47 PM

No I can't Tell how close it is to the sump wall. The sump itself is a little half dish and it's high enough that I can't see in all that well. Typically, I'm used to having the same cylinder area available for it to pull in via a cylindrical area calculation which should be equal or greater to the area of the 2D sump pickup... No?

It's definitely not hanging, and I feel that there is a slight bit of room to allow the sock to be between the gold metal hanger and the sump container in the fuel cell. But I don't know how hard it's smashing down on that thing, it feels pretty tight.
My other thought would be to put the sock inside the gold frame hanger, raise the pump up, and possibly shorten the pickup fuel hose to be able to raise it some. I just don't know. It just feels super tight.

cv2065

12-28-2024, 02:06 PM

No I can't Tell how close it is to the sump wall. The sump itself is a little half dish and it's high enough that I can't see in all that well. Typically, I'm used to having the same cylinder area available for it to pull in via a cylindrical area calculation which should be equal or greater to the area of the 2D sump pickup... No?

It's definitely not hanging, and I feel that there is a slight bit of room to allow the sock to be between the gold metal hanger. Aunt the sump container in the fuel cell. But I don't know hard it's smashing down on that thing, it feels pretty tight.
My other thought would be to put the sock inside the gold frame hanger, raise the pump up, and possibly shorten the pickup fuel hose to be able to raise it some. I just don't know. It just feels super tight.

If you are looking in from the side with a flashlight and pull up on the hanger you should be able to see where the sock is pointing and that the hangar is in the sump. I'd also make sure that the sock is still secure and it didn't get knocked loose.

M22_COBRA

12-28-2024, 08:30 PM

This might be the best picture I can get you. Trouble is I can see it but I can't touch it to understand how much Gap the sock has between the hanger and the bottom of the sump.
Does this look right?
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gbranham

12-28-2024, 08:49 PM

I'm sure it's fine. Countless folks have installed this hanger in this tank. Can't imagine yours would be out of whack.

BUDFIVE

12-28-2024, 10:43 PM

I have the pro m hanger and the complete kit FFR fuel cell and have a question. I have been on hiatus for work in and vacation but I had some time to get back on the project with the fuel system. On assembly it was a bit tricky to get the hanger and the pump in after a small trim to the opening per the instructions, but it's in.
On assembly it seems the unit in the full installed position feels really tight vertically, almost compressed. I have no other adjustment. If I raise the pump in the hanger, the sock won't have enough "grab" on the pump to stay installed. My fear is there is not enough "curtain" area under the pump and at full song it could be restricted. Any thoughts?

208109208110
208111

M22-what pump is that? It seems the bottom center input that the screen attaches to is pretty long? This would make the hanger assembly long and perhaps not fit vertically. Is the red a protective cover?
This is the Summit of 250103 pump I used with my ProM hanger, for reference. I had no fitment issues.
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edwardb

12-28-2024, 10:57 PM

What you're installing is something a bunch of us have done. Myself on multiple builds. I suspect you're fine. But for reference, this is the bottom of that combination that was installed in my 20th Anniversary Roadster build. Two things of note: (1) There should be a small gasket between the pump inlet and the bottom of the hangar. Just visible as a black line in this picture. If missing, the pump might be pushed down more than normal. (2) Every sock I've used had the plastic ridges visible in this picture. Even if pushed against the bottom of the tank, there's still adequate passage for the fuel to enter the pump.

One other note just FYI. You referred to your tank as a "fuel cell." Confused me at first until I looked at your pictures. Yours isn't a fuel cell. That's a very specific tank made of heavier material, has a bladder, foam baffling, etc. Used in dedicated track cars and often required by certain sanctioning bodies. What you have is a standard OE Fox body Mustang fuel tank.

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M22_COBRA

12-29-2024, 08:05 AM

M22-what pump is that? It seems the bottom center input that the screen attaches to is pretty long? This would make the hanger assembly long and perhaps not fit vertically. Is the red a protective cover?
This is the Summit of 250103 pump I used with my ProM hanger, for reference. I had no fitment issues.
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Yeah that's just the cap, it's long. There's barely enough meat on the pump after it fits thru the bracket for the sock to grab. Its the same pump I got from summit. I'm sure I'm over reacting now. :)

M22_COBRA

12-29-2024, 08:15 AM

edwardb

12-29-2024, 08:26 AM

Sorry about the "fuel cell" comment. I'm just way too used to speaking in the race shop around my work cars... ;)
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No need to apologize. It's usually impossible to know the knowledge/experience level of forum members. Many first time builders here. Carry on!

M22_COBRA

12-29-2024, 09:31 AM

Lol, no more like 20 years of bad habits. Definitely not an expert at everything, always something to learn. Thanks for the help, I'll need it for sure when I get to electrical.

M22_COBRA

12-29-2024, 05:33 PM

Quick post of the night, thought I'd share. Was looking for a cap for the fuel neck A BEHR spray paint cap or an assembly lube cap fits just right.
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gbranham

12-29-2024, 05:46 PM

I think you mean fuel filler neck, not fuel vent. The vent is that brass 90 degree fitting in the background. Not trying to be pedantic...just correcting lest some newbies get confused.

PMD24

12-29-2024, 07:37 PM

Just read through your whole thread. I'm about to get into sheet metal. Like the look of your polished panels. Can you share what you use/do for the polishing? Thanks.

M22_COBRA

12-29-2024, 09:14 PM

I think you mean fuel filler neck, not fuel vent. The vent is that brass 90 degree fitting in the background.

100% spot on, fixed it. Doing this off the phone. Talk to text got me.

M22_COBRA

12-29-2024, 09:21 PM

I use a aluminum polishing bar compound to get it clean with a wool 4" wheel. Then use a polish compound called CJ'S METAL gloss and finish with the CJs sealer.

I'll warn you. It's dirty, takes a long time, and it's very easy to go to far and burn a panel if your speed is too fast. I try to stay around 1100 rpm. Setup outside on sawhorses with clothes you don't care about and FAR away from the house or I promise the wife will have a fit. The sling is like cooper seize, it gets everywhere.

M22_COBRA

12-30-2024, 06:26 PM

Gas tank is in! I used my portable vice then lightly, slightly, and ever so politely worked the flange flat and the last movement was a small adjustment down to line it up and make it flat. I did have a set of flat bill sheet metal grips I was gonna use. But since my gorilla hand strength has left me after my surgery, this was a work smarter way of getting it done. Only chipped the paint in two small areas.
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The passenger side is tight but it still has a large gap to the down bar... Normal? The tank ain't moving that's for sure.

Most of the day was spent getting the car off the dolly and onto stands. It was just up way to high and I wanted to bring it down now before the car got heavy. Had to deconstruct the dolly and it ended up being 18" tall. The jack stands have it at 19, and that's good enough. I now can get it down with the jack as it has enough drive at that height. No need for the engine hoist and straps. This way I can have the piece of mind it's on stands and If I need to move it I can drop it on the dolly and make a small adjustment.

M22_COBRA

01-13-2025, 08:58 AM

Its been a while. The cold and work have slowed me severely.
Got going on the tank install, minor drama on the straps but not too bad, I left the PS strap less than snug per the instructions. Something about sheet metal adjustment?
I took an idea from another forum member and got me a $20 amazon fuel filter and turned it into a carbon vapor can with some cheap-o fittings and ran the line. Mounted it on the front side of the 1x1 tank post.

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I had the Aeromotive regulator to get the necessary 65 psi for my gen 3, all the fittings form Frangiola, and the line but the Trick flow reservoir has been on backorder for months now out of Summit. I saw that Aeromotive made a new combination 10 micron filter and regulator unit and I was curious. As I have read from other members that they may have put the regulator in the back since after the tune they remove the regulator gauge and never touch it again. It got me thinking if I were to do so with the connections at the rear, if there was ever a problem with a leak at the regulator then the fuel would just dump out back of the car vs dumping on the engine.... so I went for it. Got to say I actually really like it! The Aeromotive part (AEI-13147) is very well made and used the FFR Filter mount with some edge trim on the flanges, some sound deadener foam for fretting and mounted it up on the chassis ( I think this chassis plate is for a 3 bar mount). I have no use for it since I am IRS. This setup actually saved me a few bucks since I have less connections /required fittings and less line needed.
Its a short run off the tank then back again. I have good access from underneath and servicing should be easy as I also made the bracket removable to the chassis, 10-24 w/ nylock once I get to the hardware store. All I have to do now is run the line to the front and get it close to its last clipping point.

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M22_COBRA

01-18-2025, 04:43 PM

Mocking up potential reservoir positions, and I think I found one I like. The question is where I have them. The cap is about half an inch below the top 1x1 bar that the body sits on. The hood has a recess which comes down. Does it look like this is too high and the hood will hit it? I'm about out of vertical adjustment with the ffr reservoirs. The next step would be to increase the bracket but I don't know how far is too far and then you're below the Masters? Feedback appreciated.
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F500guy

01-18-2025, 05:27 PM

Yours look about where mine are located, the top is close to center of the square tube. No issues.

M22_COBRA

01-18-2025, 09:33 PM

Thanks, F500guy appreciate the input. Hard to tell without the body and hood on. Figured I'd dip in to the experience pool on this one. I guess worst case it would require a new bracket which I made removable for unforeseeable reasons like these.

M22_COBRA

01-20-2025, 11:46 AM

Got started on brake hardlines, WIP. Plan is to build the pass thru side door on the drivers box with grommets. I considered running the rear down inside the footbox like others have done. I just wasn't sure I liked it and how it would play with the carpet ( above / below). The plan at the moment is to cross over the steering bearing, clip where necessary, and drive straight down the front of the foot box. I also plan on making a fabricated heat shield for just the brake line with the appropriate material. Done it before on my "other cars" and it works well when done correctly (per the brake temp sensors in the scrutineering data). Again, All WIP. May be easier if I drop in the engine temporarily and hook up the header to get the full concept? Probably not that big of a deal. Any thoughts welcome.
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M22_COBRA

01-20-2025, 03:51 PM

After some MORE photo research that may not be a good place for that line on the edge of the foot box.:eek:

F500guy

01-21-2025, 09:35 AM

M22_COBRA

01-21-2025, 10:18 AM

I originally ran my rear line out the front and down under the car, ended up redoing it and running it down the inside of the driver, outside corner of the footbox, pretty easy and clean and easy real estate. I Did a hanger for fuse panel and turn signal ground along that outside frame, but I think it should work as long as you are far enough out of the way of the window frame.
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I'm considering what you have for sure. How does the carpet work with this -> go behind it or overtop? I'd assume behind? Looking thru your build for context.
My other thought is to go under the 1x1 all the way forward, drop down on the round tube then come back. But thats a long route.

Mike.Bray

01-21-2025, 10:33 AM

It's best to run the brake lines inside the footbox. There's room behind for the carpet. I used bulkhead fittings to pass through the sheet metal.

https://www.imagecoast.com/images/MichaelBray1/20220623151832mediumrotated.jpg

M22_COBRA

01-27-2025, 10:54 AM

Struggling with the brake lines. Got everything routed, was doing lots of practice, and tried to use the Eastwood style flaring tool but the kit lines are so hard that it pushes the line back in op1 and I don't get a bubble, but op2 flares them out. SOAB. I wrench down on the tool with a mini breaker bar and I know it gets a good clamp as I get overly aggressive witness lines on the coating but it still pushes back. I ordered some NiCopp and got that on the way, I'll try that. Question is with a double flare how does NiCopp play with a stainless 37 deg AN fitting? I have one as a bulkhead going thru the bottom of the floor like mike and PaulB have outlined previously. Following the procedures, chamfer, file edges, lube, ect.... bad times. This photo may be too high res, they don't look this cracked up in real life ??
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gbranham

01-27-2025, 05:42 PM

I've struggled with several double flare tools in the past, but on this build, I bought this one. Couldn't be easier. Perfect flares every time. I used the kit-supplied brake line.

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F500guy

01-27-2025, 07:47 PM

Carpet actually went behind the line, I may shoot a little black on the green line to make it blend in. Later after I can drive it, then good chance I will forget about it!

M22_COBRA

01-27-2025, 09:25 PM

Tried a few new things and still no success. It makes a fantastic single flare but the first OP for the bubble is no good. I tried a super large chamfer, mobile 220 red grease, oil, antisieze, I even placed a metal angle back stop behind the line to stop it from backing out. Nothing worked. The backstop just got me a bent piece of test line. Really hoping this roll of Nicopp I have ordered will form better. Already pissed this expensive tool isn't working.

gbranham

01-28-2025, 09:35 AM

Mike.Bray

01-28-2025, 10:30 AM

Don't feel bad, I never made a decent double flare in my life. I went to stainless AN fittings out of necessity.

M22_COBRA

01-28-2025, 11:18 AM

Do you want to borrow my El Cheapo tool that works great? Happy to ship it to you, but for the price of shipping both ways, you can buy it on Amazon. I think it was around $40.

Greg

Thanks gbranham, Which tool did you end up using? I see the Eastwood knockoff Titan is about $41 shipped.

M22_COBRA

01-28-2025, 11:19 AM

Don't feel bad, I never made a decent double flare in my life. I went to stainless AN fittings out of necessity.

lol I may be in the same boat if this doesn't work out.

gbranham

01-28-2025, 11:52 AM

See post #113 above for a picture of what I used.

Its Bruce

01-28-2025, 11:56 AM

See post #113 above for a picture of what I used.

I just want to say that I used this tool as well and dealt with zero leaks (surprisingly).

JohnK

01-28-2025, 01:37 PM

You say that you used an "Eastwood style" flaring tool. What are you using, exactly? FWIW - I never used the FFR-provided brake lines so I have no direct experience with those but my only guess would be that whatever that green coating is is affecting the tool's ability to grip the line. With the "real" Eastwood tool (https://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html) I was able to get perfect double flares on both Nicopp and stainless steel lines every time.

Edit: another possibility I just thought of is that whatever lines FFR is providing are marginally smaller OD than typical 3/16" brake lines. You may want to check them with a pair of calipers against Nicopp or SS lines and see if they're the same OD. If they're a touch smaller, the tool will never grip them properly.

JeffP

01-28-2025, 01:49 PM

JohnK

01-28-2025, 01:53 PM

I'm guessing that the line OD is a long shot, but I know that FFR changes up vendors from time to time due to supply constraints, cost, etc. so it's entirely possible that what they're providing now is different than was was shipped in the past.

gbranham

01-28-2025, 03:43 PM

I think there's some overthinking going on here. It's the tool, or how it's being used. It's not the kit-supplied brake line.

Jeff Kleiner

01-28-2025, 04:03 PM

I think there's some overthinking going on here. It's the tool, or how it's being used. It's not the kit-supplied brake line.

M22, remenber when you told us this?

...unpacked two new tools from amazon. My budget Rivnut pliers and my budget knockoff Eastwood brake line flare...

Jeff

MSumners

01-28-2025, 04:32 PM

These flares were leaking?
I have the Eastwood style system and never had that much trouble. I do as well clamp with some body weight force to keep the tubing from moving in the clamp. Have used on the included steel lines, stainless, nicopp. The included rhino lines seem to be easier than SS in the mount. nothing ever moved though. Definitely nicopp should feel soft compared to both. have a picture of your actual system?

M22_COBRA

01-28-2025, 08:41 PM

Just to clear up, no they were not leaking I never got that far. I wasn't getting a double flare, the first OP never happened. It just pushed the tube back. Single flare was bullets, if I was just doing AN fittings.

JohnK you win the virtual beer ��. While I can't say the OD of the rhino is off but it is definitely out of round. At least 0.020" worth on average and in every piece. I could feel it with my hand. Is that the only cause IDK but now I'm awfully suspicious. Would not be a big deal if you just bend and use the full length.

I'm going down to the race shop this week for work and I'm bringing my tool and a section of rhino tube. I'm gonna let the pro in the shop have a crack at it, and try some premo line we use in the car, and let him use his tools on the rhino. The Nicopp should be here Thursday to try also. Stay tuned.

gbranham

01-29-2025, 09:24 AM

Your 'budget knockoff Eastwood brake line flare' tool is your problem. There's no magic to this. No undersized brake line, no out of round brake line...just a bad tool. I'd be willing to bet a virtual beer that if you sent me a length of your kit-supplied brake line, I'd make a perfect flare the first time. It's really not that difficult with the right tools.

Good luck!

Greg

M22_COBRA

02-11-2025, 08:18 AM

It has been a hot minute, the fallout post Daytona kept me busy. But... Im back with results on the budget brake flare tool, and for all those in the fellowship of the negative I got news for you. Ain't nothing wrong with it.

While I was down in the shop, I enlisted a specialist on the job and I can say with confidence he has made more brake lines that anyone on this forum. He's worked with Gurney, Bondurant, Foyt, Foose, Earnhardt.... you get the point he's been around forever and I trust him.
We both ran the tool, 37, 45, AN single flare, double flare, Nicopp, Steel w/ rubber coating, and annealed stainless, and the steel Rhino FFR supplied material. Same results for both of us.

Nicopp - No surprise it was perfect on every setup this could even be done with min / no lube (not recommended). Just dont over travel the die on an AN single OP or you will get HUGE 37 deg flares.
Steel w rubber coating - Only issue was it needed a good amount of lube to work to get the bubble flare, other than that it was fine.
Stainless (annealed) - No issues in any form, if it was picky about anything it was that you really needed to get a good ID chamfer with the roundy round deburring tool to have really nice seat. The annealing helped to make it a bit softer. (we dont carry standard stainless so no data there - sorry)
Rhino - It would not do double flares, period. No amount of lubrication, chamfering, or prepping would make it go. we even trued the line up on the lathe, nope.

So the final conclusion is I have a nice tool and I saved $130 over the brand name that can do 37, 45, brakes, fuel, in multiple sizes. So for all those reading here and looking for tools to support your build, its likely that you will not be able to use the FFR supplied material in a off brand tool like mine.
But for $130 savings, I'll take that tradeoff.

I did get a bit of work done on routing and plumbing. I will be redoing the line inside the foot box since I dont like the route at all. Its a bit late to go down the RF corner like most have but I got a plan to get there to the AN fitting in the floor. The Nicopp also polishes up nice! 2 mins with the diamond polish while its a straight section and done.

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M22_COBRA

02-17-2025, 03:22 PM

Had a great weekend of working on the car. When there is FEET of snow outside and 40 mph winds there is not much else to do, maybe tip a good Whiskey :). Tackled the brake lines some more but redid 2 of them because I just didn't like them. The rears at first were going to be straight fitting to fitting after the "T" on the cross bar, but on second thought even though they were short runs I didn't like that they had no "pull out" or "droop loop" capability to accommodate for flex. If it would have been straight then it could be in straight tension based on any flex in the car. Will I flex the car (shrug) likely not across that bar but it made me feel better. I don't want to put one in tension and find out the hard way by failing a thread in the "T".

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Before I get too far I should mention that I am using the stock 2018 Rear brake lines and fittings. I found two locations using the rear mounting tabs from the kit. I think that it has reasonable accessibility once the full car and sheet metal is in. I'll use 3/16 rivets for main mounts and for stabilizing p clips I will use the self tapping screws and a dab of Loctite (when the time comes). I'm happy with it. The next steps are bleeding and just got my pressure bleeder from Summit today. We will see how many leaks I get to chase. Hopefully not many. If we hold pressure and no leaks, the Clecos will be replaced by rivets, and the self tapping screws on the cross bar will be Loctite-ed.

The other line I messed with was the rear out of the MC. Most everyone goes down the RF corner of the drivers box but I was worried I would not be able to get it out if it was trapped by the frame. Chances are if it needs to be removed it going to do so via tin snips.
So I ran down the LS angle bar, looped under the firewall main plate and then down the RS 1x1 tube and into a SS AN bulkhead fitting. I'm marginally worried about that fitting leaking but not sure how to get around that other than get it tight.
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TTimmy

02-18-2025, 07:53 AM

Interesting results on the test!

Regarding the “knockoff” tool. FWIW, I ordered one from Amazon and relieve it to be identical to the Eastwood model… other than the logo. I have an Eastwood store down the road and compared the two quite closely, though not side by side.

M22_COBRA

02-26-2025, 05:09 PM

I moved on to bleeding the lines, setup a bench bleed in car and ran a section of the unused kit line from the pressure side of the MC and into the reservoirs. Not much to see there, just pumped the pedal lightly until the bubbles ceased. Then it fell apart somewhere about here, but I'll get to that. First off this nifty little pressure bleeder is a great product, it made the actual bleed process super simple. I saw it on a few builders threads and it came highly recommended, I can add myself to those believers. http://https://www.amazon.com/dp/B095JYYQ2P?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
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I hooked it all up, filled the reservoir, and put it to 5psi and opened the valve. I planned to do the sequence RR, LR, RF, LF. But after returning from the RR back to the drivers foot box after what I felt was the limit to not empty the resi, there was quite a puddle in the footbox. Durring the bench bleed, I was too focused on the rear fitting on the MC to even notice if it was leaking at this point. Luckily I planned ahead and placed a large plastic sheet down in the footbox just in case. On further review the rear Wilwood 3/4 MC was pouring fluid out the front seal and the boot was FULL. Im thinking the boot held it back long enough on the bench bleed and really let loose on the pressure bleed. It was almost like it had no seal in it at all. Talked to Dan at FFR and they got a new one in the Mail last night Tuesday & that will be here Thursday. Speedy Delivery. I'll pull it apart and diagnose further since it seems they don't want it back.
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But I had a extra MC as I was going with a hydraulic clutch but decided not to later, so I put that spare one in. Bled the brakes per the procedure, maybe made 6-8 rounds to be sure I got it all, mallet tapped the calipers. The pedal is pretty firm and I only had one weeper in the back. It turned out to just need another 1/8 of a turn on the wrench and it stopped. Pretty awesome to get thru this part and not have to remake any flares. My next step will be to go round and replace the clecos with rivets. This was just in case I did need replacement line due to a bad flare, I'm not having to drill out rivets to do so. Super Happy, build rolls on.

F500guy

02-26-2025, 10:00 PM

Tilton's are a step away...

M22_COBRA

02-26-2025, 10:15 PM

Tilton's are a step away...

Maybe....

Mike.Bray

02-26-2025, 10:28 PM

And another Wilwood MC failure....

gbranham

02-26-2025, 11:07 PM

And another Wilwood MC failure....

Right. I saw this and thought "ugh".

M22_COBRA

02-27-2025, 07:54 AM

I know. I'm trying to have a positive attitude on it. I didn't get to pull the BAD one apart last night but will tonight and report back.

Mike.Bray

02-27-2025, 11:21 AM

I know. I'm trying to have a positive attitude on it. I didn't get to pull the BAD one apart last night but will tonight and report back.

I wouldn't go so far as to say Wilwood has a fundamental design problem but the Tilton is a better design. I do think Wilwood has a quality issue, yours is not the first MC to fail right out of the box. If you haven't seen it here's some good reading, including how much of a pain it is to change them later.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?49560-Swapping-Tilton-MC-for-Wilwood-MC

M22_COBRA

02-27-2025, 11:45 AM

Yeah Mike.Bray, I poured thru all those the night it happened. Seems to be "a thing" in other car forums also. Eye opening. I think it is a quality issue also but wont start that discussion.
10-4 on the pain of changing once the top and body goes on.

M22_COBRA

02-27-2025, 05:43 PM

I posted this in another thread, but I want it here for information.
This is what I saw. I do not have a tool to measure surface finish but I'm not really sure this is ra4-16. Looks pretty rough, and you can see some fissures which may be porosity. But I'm not a metallurgist so that's not really my Lane. You can see one pitt in the chamfer but that shouldn't effect sealing. I checked the bore and the o-ring size and it checks out on the Parker website to be to spec.
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M22_COBRA

03-03-2025, 07:32 AM

This weekend I buttoned up all the brake lines and swapped Clecos for Rivets, then moved on to the E-stopp install.
Pretty straight forward, I ran out of the proper fasteners at the end so the self tapping screws and the zip tie is just a temp solution.

NOTE: The torque note on the axle nut was found later to be for a used nut and the note has since been changed. Using a new nut is closer to 250Ft Lb, which I put the front to. Unless anyone else has different info?? I cant torque the rear nuts yet unless I put it on the ground which Im not ready to. I would have to change the bias to get the rear brakes to hold. It started slipping via the pedal around 220ft#. I'll just wait till later and leave the note.

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M22_COBRA

03-09-2025, 12:26 PM

Mike.Bray

03-09-2025, 01:10 PM

Order you up a bottle of this. Pretty sure Amazon has it.

https://www.imagecoast.com/images/MichaelBray1/4494668634740381118774032753220876160107107n.jpg

M22_COBRA

03-09-2025, 05:40 PM

Order you up a bottle of this. Pretty sure Amazon has it.

Mike.Bray thanks. I needed a laugh. I'm sure it does it all it's own when you hook it up wrong... Then I start smoking cuz I'm mad...lol

M22_COBRA

03-12-2025, 09:29 AM

Placed my order from Forte yesterday. Got my Trans, clutch, control pack, and all the supporting goodies on the way. I read thru the ford control pack and the FFR Coyote instructions again and I'm feeling better about this now that "I think" I understand the bridge between the two harnesses. Having real parts in hand I'm hoping closes the gap further.

Worked on the fan and shroud in the mean time. I am not using the FFR fan but the one i.e427 recommended in one of his videos. Looked up the specs on it and yeah, its a nice part. Bought it way back during a sale for $50 thru Summit. Its out of a 94 thunderbird application and I really liked the whole package. Just one problem... Frank put this on a different radiator in his video and not the FFR ( which I knew ) but the FFR radiator inlet and outlet give the shroud a little more interference than I expected. I do this a bunch at work on prototype military applications using OTS products so it no big deal. So, we adapt and overcome.... Spent most of the day trying to place my cuts.
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The plan is to cap off the clearances I made, paint them, silicone and rivet in place. Its going to be almost impossible to see the mod anyway.

This is what it started life as https://www.summitracing.com/parts/RNB-620-118

Infinitybox

03-12-2025, 10:11 AM

If we can help, please let us know. We can make your life easier regarding your wiring. Please let me know if I can help.

www.infinitybox.com

Regards,
Anthony

dbo_texas

03-12-2025, 10:17 AM

I started electrical yesterday. I AM GOING TO NEED HELP FROM THE COMMUNITY ON THIS!
It is definitely my weakest area and I have little to no experience with wiring. Hanging and connecting a PI data system yes, designing wiring layouts no.

Note: I'm doing a coyote and have the RF harness, but not the control pack ( yet). I'll call Forte tomorrow and get that ordered along with my trans ect . I'm starting to realize how much the control pack does and negates so much of the RF harness. But SO MUCH of exactly what that is / what to cut out is where I am lost as a ball in high weeds.
Took some time just laying the harness out and zip tying it roughly into place. I did not drill holes thru The firewall yet. It sounds like I will need one for the coyote harness and one for the rear harness? I got the fuse box installed with the front corner support per the recommendations, no drama there.
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Instructions for the rear were a little odd because the chassis and the pictures didn't exactly match, went to find other examples.
I ran it how I would have done it in a race car, but I'm not sure that's the right way. Need some feedback on the rear layout and if you think I will have enough length in the tail lights?
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I'm working off of revision w for the wiring harness instructions. On page 21, when you get to the fuel injected engine section, the hand up talks about running the coyote to defer to the fitment instructions. At what point in the instructions does that hand up stop? Is there something I need to do with the fuel pump wiring since that would be controlled by the Ford ECM? Can I continue?
Where does that hand up for the coyote stop?
I think it's best today to work on mounting The radiator with the breeze mounts, and waiting for the community's feedback. I think having the control pack harness will make this make a little more sense.

Thanks in advance.

Not sure which version of the Coyote you are doing but I'd suggest reading through edwardb's build thread. He does a great job documenting the Coyote & Controls Pack install and many of us have copied his harness & power install because it's clean and it works. For the firewall, you'll need holes for the Coyote harness and most add one for the sender unit harness (alternator, oil pressure, water temp, and the tach wire to tap into the tack on the Coyote cylinder #4). You can see both of these in the picture below:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202943&d=1724117955

For the rear harness, you can either put the hole in the firewall, or run it through the DS footbox. I chose to go through the footbox - not sure if there's advantages one way or the other but that's what I did. On my DS footbox inner panel I have a hole for the rear harness, and another one that I run the power from my master cutoff into the dash (to a busbar). I also run my hydraulic clutch line through that 2nd smaller grommet. You can kind of see them in this photo:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197968&d=1712591184

M22_COBRA

03-12-2025, 12:36 PM

Not sure which version of the Coyote you are doing but I'd suggest reading through edwardb's build thread. He does a great job documenting the Coyote & Controls Pack install and many of us have copied his harness & power install because it's clean and it works. For the firewall, you'll need holes for the Coyote harness and most add one for the sender unit harness (alternator, oil pressure, water temp, and the tach wire to tap into the tack on the Coyote cylinder #4). You can see both of these in the picture below:....

Thank you so much! I'm real sketch on popping holes in the firewall, this helps a TON! I was getting lost on Edwards thread as I wasn't sure if he thinned the heard and combined the harnesses into one ( his stuff is so clean sometimes I can't tell ).
THANKYOU, THANKYOU, THANKYOU!!!

Blitzboy54

03-12-2025, 03:17 PM

dbo_texas

03-12-2025, 04:44 PM

Thank you so much! I'm real sketch on popping holes in the firewall, this helps a TON! I was getting lost on Edwards thread as I wasn't sure if he thinned the heard and combined the harnesses into one ( his stuff is so clean sometimes I can't tell ).
THANKYOU, THANKYOU, THANKYOU!!!

I hear you - on electrical I put it off so long because it was the part that I was dreading the most. I still don't like it, but just finished it on my build. I'm about to start posting updates with custom circuits/schematics that worked for me. For the RF harness, I did diet out the hotrod leg of the harness as this is basically just a parallel leg that isn't needed in the Roadster build. That gets rid of a few wires behind the dash. It isn't necessary - some people just coil it and tuck it out of the way but I have not idea how you'd find the room to do that....the area behind my dash is absolutely jam packed. I did de-loom some of the RF harnesses to add some new wires/circuits (such as reverse light, power wires for USB/Aux ports in multiple locations, etc). I think I re-routed the Starter leg of the harness and sent the alternator wire through the sender unit harness because on the Coyote those are all going to the same area on the engine (DS, front lower area), and the power wires went to a busbar mounted to the inside of the firewall (same as edwardb used on his builds). I also copied him on the power routing for the Coyote --> I de-loomed the leg of the ECU harness and re-routed the starter motor wire along the left side of the engine bay along with the battery cable from the master cutoff switch). Also sent the Coyote ECU orange fan wire along the PS to route it to the fan controller. These were all a bit intimidating, but in the end it wasn't too bad and gave me confidence to understand the wiring better and try new things (like adding a ton of new circuits/features which aren't needed, but are fun!).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192884&d=1701701355

dbo_texas

03-12-2025, 04:58 PM

Here's a better view of the holes in the firewall and DS footbox. On the firewall, going left-to-right is the Coyote Harness (splits into 3 branches...one to the ECU across the PS footbox top, one to the starter motor & chassis ground homerun by the battery, and one to the PDB), then the sender unit harness (between Coyote harness and PDB), then on the side of the DS footbox panel are 2 openings - one for the power (coming from master cutoff switched side) and hydraulic clutch line, and the other larger one is for the RF rear harness.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211409&d=1741816541

Nigel Allen

03-12-2025, 05:24 PM

For as complicated an engine the Coyote is internally it’s remarkably easy to wire up the RF harness. There are very few connections. As for where to mount stuff Paul’s builds are the gold standard.

X2 on this comment. For a coyote to interface to the Ron Francis harness, you only need 4 connections:
- Ignition signal
- start signal
- output to the fuel pump
- output to cooling fan
That's it! You have a living and breathing engine.

Of course I have ignored items like oil, tach and temp temp wiring. These are the same for any installation.

I think you will look back at the electrical later and think, 'that wasn't too bad'

All the best,

Nige

i.e.427

03-12-2025, 05:36 PM

I am not using the FFR fan but the one i.e427 recommended in one of his videos. Looked up the specs on it and yeah, its a nice part. Bought it way back during a sale for $50 thru Summit. Its out of a 94 thunderbird application and I really liked the whole package. Just one problem... Frank put this on a different radiator in his video and not the FFR ( which I knew ) but the FFR radiator inlet and outlet give the shroud a little more interference than I expected. I do this a bunch at work on prototype military applications using OTS products so it no big deal. So, we adapt and overcome....

I believe the one in the video you are referring to was a generic rad we sourced from Griffin. F5R was out of stock for a long time during Covid. We've also used this rad fan a dozen other times on the F5R rad. Up and until they switch from the Afco to the Chinese one, the fan fit with little or no modification. Now, the inlet/outlets are a bit different so a little modding is in order. Dollar for dollar, I still like this one vs some of the other options.

Frank

M22_COBRA

03-13-2025, 10:42 AM

I believe the one in the video you are referring to was a generic rad we sourced from Griffin.....

Frank

Yes sir, I am following the method you used to get it on the radiator. Incidentally thats pretty close to how we did on our gen 6 race cars. I just may beef up the lower pin connections by reusing the FFR laser cut parts bonded to the shroud. This way over time it prevents the pins from ever opening the holes in the plastic due to vibration (100,000 miles later fingers crossed), and we reuse stuff I have in the kit. win win.
I do need to go back and rewatch to get the connector you used, unless you made a custom 3 pin weather pack to mount to the harness.??

Here's a better view of the holes in the firewall and DS footbox....
Yes this is making so much more sense now, Thanks Darryl for the photos and explanation. I'm more of a visual learner most of the time, and others it just takes a slight change in the perspective and it starts clicking.

Confidence is rising.

i.e.427

03-13-2025, 05:33 PM

I do need to go back and rewatch to get the connector you used, unless you made a custom 3 pin weather pack to mount to the harness.??

This may save you the trouble. Fan Connector: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4673355&cc=1140613&pt=2556&jsn=597
You're also going to need to run a higher amp relay: https://www.waytekwire.com/product/egis-mobile-electric-901488-power-relay-12vdc?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=17546871747&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhMq-BhCFARIsAGvo0KerFDza6G79kcH7XV-2sw_0sI-vgqr1DniPqJ8h4THyYzEBpr3COn4aAqQzEALw_wcB
And make sure to upsize your wire to #10.

M22_COBRA

03-14-2025, 08:36 AM

Pretty excited today. I have my control pack, clutch, trans package coming this afternoon. Sorry uncle Sam, filing taxes are going to have to wait till next weekend!

Armed with the knowledge from above and the necessary parts to make it happen, my plan is to lay out the control pack and RF and get that pretty close and temp zip tie that in place. Then take the engine minus everything from the block back and drop that in the car and mark and measure mounting locations, hook up the connections, shorten wires where necessary, then remove the engine and lock it down. Anything wrong with this logic?

PS - made some more progress on the shroud last night. I'll post up the full show with some step by steps later. Here's a sneak peak.
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M22_COBRA

03-18-2025, 01:50 PM

This may save you the trouble. Fan Connector: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4673355&cc=1140613&pt=2556&jsn=597
You're also going to need to run a higher amp relay: https://www.waytekwire.com/product/egis-mobile-electric-901488-power-relay-12vdc?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=17546871747&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhMq-BhCFARIsAGvo0KerFDza6G79kcH7XV-2sw_0sI-vgqr1DniPqJ8h4THyYzEBpr3COn4aAqQzEALw_wcB
And make sure to upsize your wire to #10.

Question: I am running the ford control pack for the gen 3 coyote, no AC, no heat, no radio... I'm gonna have 4 wheels and a seat, you get the point.
Per the instructions, the Ford control pack runs the fan via the orange wire (I think this is already #10?) directly to the fan power to control the fan (correct?). Do I still need the relay changed? Thought I read somewhere that the RF / Ford PCB are sized properly if I'm not running other accessories? Appreciate the clarification.

edwardb

03-18-2025, 02:15 PM

Question: I am running the ford control pack for the gen 3 coyote, no AC, no heat, no radio... I'm gonna have 4 wheels and a seat, you get the point.
Per the instructions, the Ford control pack runs the fan via the orange wire (I think this is already #10?) directly to the fan power to control the fan (correct?). Do I still need the relay changed? Thought I read somewhere that the RF / Ford PCB are sized properly if I'm not running other accessories? Appreciate the clarification.

Assuming you want the Ford Performance control pack to control the cooling fan (my recommendation) the orange wire from the control pack goes directly to the plus side of the cooling fan. Ground the other side and you're done. The RF fan circuit isn't used at all. The RF fan circuit does however become a relay controlled circuit that you can use for something else. If you want. The one downside though is it's a battery circuit, meaning it's powered all the time regardless of the ignition switch position. That can be dealt with too if necessary.

i.e.427

03-18-2025, 02:34 PM

Question: I am running the ford control pack for the gen 3 coyote, no AC, no heat, no radio... I'm gonna have 4 wheels and a seat, you get the point.
Per the instructions, the Ford control pack runs the fan via the orange wire (I think this is already #10?) directly to the fan power to control the fan (correct?). Do I still need the relay changed? Thought I read somewhere that the RF / Ford PCB are sized properly if I'm not running other accessories? Appreciate the clarification.

I did not read through your entire build thread to find out which engine management system you are using. If you are using the Ford Control Pack, the orange #10 wire can be run directly to the fan. If you are using the Ford control Pack to trigger the RF harness fan relay, that circuit is fused at 30 amps. I have always used the Ford Control Pack to run the fan when using a Coyote.

Frank

M22_COBRA

03-18-2025, 02:39 PM

Assuming you want the Ford Performance control pack to control the cooling fan...

Good, I was interpreting it the same way. thanks. Its encouraging that I'm starting to understand the wiring enough to ask better questions.
I am starting to feel like this 4 post master switch is becoming a bit like a gimmick if I don't have the alternator power on it. Otherwise the ECU, the PCB, the fan, the alternator are always ready to fire off. The only thing the switch would be blocking is the starter and any down stream RF stuff.

Which generates the next question...
Would the fuel pump also shut off if the master is tripped OFF? Assuming the Ford control pack harness splices in to the rear RF harness, the RF harness is on the switch side ( on/off) so it runs w/ switched power... Is the ford fuel splice in wire carrying its own power at that point being on the always on side of power?

Blitzboy54

03-18-2025, 02:57 PM

Good, I was interpreting it the same way. thanks. Its encouraging that I'm starting to understand the wiring enough to ask better questions.
I am starting to feel like this 4 post master switch is becoming a bit like a gimmick if I don't have the alternator power on it. Otherwise the ECU, the PCB, the fan, the alternator are always ready to fire off. The only thing the switch would be blocking is the starter and any down stream RF stuff.

Which generates the next question...
Would the fuel pump also shut off if the master is tripped OFF? Assuming the Ford control pack harness splices in to the rear RF harness, the RF harness is on the switch side ( on/off) so it runs w/ switched power... Is the ford fuel splice in wire carrying its own power at that point being on the always on side of power?

If you follow the FFR instructions for running the fuel pump then yes. You end up using the Ford relay to kick it on but the ground circuit is now on the RF side. The inertia switch interrupts the ground so that shuts the pump off. Your essentially using the Ford supply (runs off of a relay in the control pack fuse box) to run the RF relay. It's kind of double relay'ed. But under this arrangement if the car rolled over the fuel pump should stop.

M22_COBRA

03-22-2025, 05:53 PM

Making good progress with the Ford control pack and the chassis harness. But I've run into a little snag that's sort of confusing. I'm at the section where the Ford instructions are talking about a blunt 5 MIL + b RED and a blunt 6 HAAT RED. But I see these wires nowhere in the Ford harness. This is for a Gen 3, and I'm wondering did they update the harness so these steps are obsolete? Looking for feedback.

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PS -The are no red wires coming out of the 6 pin? But I think that's normal.

M22_COBRA

03-23-2025, 01:43 PM

edwardb

03-23-2025, 02:55 PM

FOLLOW UP QUESTION
The chassis harness in the instructions calls for the light blue with to be cut back. I can't find where it says I should connect the thicker red chassis harness starter solenoid wires. BUT the dark blue wire on the Ford CP Harness goes to the starter with the switched 4awg power wire to control the starter....
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Do I even need the entire chassis harness leg to go to the starter or is the whole thing OK to delete the chassis harness leg?

Not sure I completely understand your question. But FWIW: When using the Ford CP, the only thing to the starter is the large +12V battery wire and the start wire from the Ford CP to the small post. The light blue RF wire to the starter is not used. That wire also uses a clutch safety switch which is also not used since the Ford CP has its own clutch switch. So you can either remove that entire light blue leg or just wrap it out of the way. The other light blue wire off the ignition switch goes to the starter motor request (SMR) on the Ford CP pigtail. To be honest, I find the FF Coyote installation instructions for the wiring a bit confusing. I'd recommend starting first with the Ford Performance instructions. If you understand those, the FF instructions make a little more sense IMO. Hope this helps.

M22_COBRA

03-23-2025, 04:00 PM

Hope this helps.

Yes, 100% clearer on what goes to the starter (+12v batt & FCP dark blue starter lead), and the starter motor request Ford light blue to the RF ignition. Thanks.

But do any of these 3 red wires get used? Ones marked "battery feed".
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Should I run the that "battery feed" to the switchd post? Looks like it as it brings power to the ignition.... What do I do with the other red wires in that bundle?

edwardb

03-23-2025, 10:09 PM

Yes, 100% clearer on what goes to the starter (+12v batt & FCP dark blue starter lead), and the starter motor request Ford light blue to the RF ignition. Thanks.

But do any of these 3 red wires get used? Ones marked "battery feed".
211771

Should I run the that "battery feed" to the switchd post? Looks like it as it brings power to the ignition.... What do I do with the other red wires in that bundle?

Yes you need those wires. Coyote build or otherwise. They are the main power for the RF harness. Coincidentally, I discussed this exact topic in my 20th Anniversary build thread earlier today. Rather than repeat it all, here's the link. There are several posts so keep scrolling. Hopefully this answers your question. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=577381&viewfull=1#post577381

M22_COBRA

03-24-2025, 07:04 AM

Yes you need those wires. Coyote build or otherwise. They are the main power for the RF harness. Coincidentally, I discussed this exact topic in my 20th Anniversary build thread earlier today. Rather than repeat it all, here's the link. There are several posts so keep scrolling. Hopefully this answers your question. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=577381&viewfull=1#post577381

You are so awesome my man, thank you for taking the time with the voltage noobs! Yes, I get it 100% now on the RF power placement. This is what I thought you did but your builds are so clean its like watching a magician do slight of hand with wiring. Im looking at the photos but not always sure how you got this over here, and that over there.
De-loom, reroute, and buss bar back to the switch seems to be the trick. Thank you again!

M22_COBRA

04-02-2025, 08:29 AM

Not much to report out / Putting this here for myself for documentation. The engine bay electrical is getting closer, this is what I did to get around the 4 post switch. I chose to block out the other posts with ray-chem shrink wrap then cut the excess off. Hindsight being 20/20 I dont think I needed the second hole in the upper fire wall. I could have gotten away with one for the control pack and two small in the drivers FB for rear and the other for alternator, sending and power in. But this works

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M22_COBRA

04-23-2025, 12:16 PM

Been really busy on the build but not posting much other that asking external questions. I’d like to combine what I've learned and drop it here to try and help that next person. First, electrical is for sure a "bite at a time" endeavor.

I got the harness in and got my positive buss bar installed (more on that later). I've removed many of the non-essential wires that the coyote or GPS gauges don't need. Such as the excess grey and green speed wire excess on the dash side. I'm repurposing them post dash for a reverse light.
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I wired my fan to the orange wire to be engine controlled and made ground at the battery annex wire. Thanks to i.e.427 for the help and his videos. Just make sure you use the proper gauge. Can't go wrong if the wire gauge is a oversized some, small will cause issues is my only advice.
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Most of the work was to the trailer module. Swapping and repining in weather packs to reduce the number of connectors helped. PS make sure you solder the wire to the weather pack pin for the best connectivity. I also made the module as a jumper so it can be removed from behind the dash should it fail. (more on this below) I used these very helpful schematics (post below) and eventually it made enough sense for me to take action. If you see something odd let me know but it should follow the schematic 100%. One of the other items I am still WIP with is I wanted small led lights in the roll bar down bars. I repurposed the dual purple wires for power (with help from the forum) and rerouted them to each side of the rear most leg in the rear. Goal is to get brake lights up higher and make them match the brake light behavior. Ordered LED's from OZNIUM (not Ozempic, that's something different, lol) I'll place 6 in each bar. Quality seems good and they take 12v direct. I also took EdwardB’s advice on the three power wires to the starter. Cut them short and sent them to a bus bar which has its own VERY SHORT battery 4-gauge wire from the switched side of the master switch. This bus bar will power most everything I need. I plan on putting in a ground bus bar for the same purpose. I drew up some custom under dash stiffeners and placed the order with send cut send. That will allow me to close out most of the under dash I care about, land most of the electronics on them, give space for underlighting, and to help stiffen the bottom of the dash. Rear wiring is in place but the zip ties will be replaced with zip tie anchors, thus the blue dots and then re attached with zip ties for service.
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I have started mocking up the dash. The plan is to use the 3-panel removable system so I can service behind the dash and load the gauges and such. It also stiffens the dash and makes it look cool. I intend on doing an anodized flat PC or maybe flock the back panel and PC the inserts. Not sure, just don't want glare. It’s how we did it in the race shop. It's how I'm doing it here. I used a piece of angle as a straight edge to set the distance and make sure its all straight across the 3 panels.
Next steps will be to figure where to cut away, add 90 deg behind dash mounts, and how to hide the mounting bolts. I think I can hide them all but one on the far PS of the dash.
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Lastly, I got my billet buttons. The plan there is key and push start but that's WIP and still figuring here. I want to run the button and the key in parallel, it’s really only for cool factor but add redundancy.
Coolest of the lot is the START button.
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M22_COBRA

04-23-2025, 12:28 PM

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For the trailer module

M22_COBRA

04-25-2025, 05:13 PM

Wheels are back from PC. Selected Prismatic powders "Gold Medal". I think it hit the shade I was after.
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gbranham

04-25-2025, 07:08 PM

Those wheels look awesome! What color are you planning for the body?

TXeverydayDad

04-25-2025, 09:50 PM

Looking forward to seeing the finished dash! Your outline looks great!

M22_COBRA

04-26-2025, 06:55 AM

Those wheels look awesome! What color are you planning for the body?

Leaning towards Deep Gloss Jet Black. I have a few other touches I want to add but need to figure it out 100%. I can say this, I'll be using Lumilor in a very unique way to make it stand out at night and add some safety to be seen. Stay tuned.

M22_COBRA

05-03-2025, 11:35 AM

Prep will be the key to success here. The plan is to cut the holes that match the location of the removable panels. Then cut out the excess and join the circles and trim as necessary to make a smooth opening. Also not take to much. Here's where we sit ready to punch holes.
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I've got a 1", 4", and 2-1/8" hole saws. I'm gonna punch the center holes for the guide bit then tape them up and get to work. Fingers crossed.

gbranham

05-03-2025, 11:51 AM

I kind of wish I would've done a modular dash, just to make maintenance much easier. I suppose I still could. Hummm.....

M22_COBRA

05-03-2025, 07:08 PM

I don't see why you can't.... You would just be sort of limited by where you have your gauges now.

Nigel Allen

05-03-2025, 09:05 PM

I kind of wish I would've done a modular dash, just to make maintenance much easier. I suppose I still could. Hummm.....

Totally on board with modular dashboard, looks super cool. As for maintenance, there's not a whole lot that needs maintaining behind the dash.

gbranham

05-03-2025, 09:36 PM

Totally on board with modular dashboard, looks super cool. As for maintenance, there's not a whole lot that needs maintaining behind the dash.

On my first build, I got behind the dash plenty to add circuits for various things. A modular dash would make that much easier.

Greg

M22_COBRA

05-07-2025, 07:15 AM

I have the the trailer led thing wired in right there. If it wets the bed at any point it wont be an issue. Every race car I've ever worked on had it and its worth its weight when things go bad. With this car you can avoid it with the dash tabs but you would still need to remove the steering column (potentially a turn signal), and I ain't about that life.
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Blitzboy54

05-07-2025, 08:11 AM

Leaning towards Deep Gloss Jet Black. I have a few other touches I want to add but need to figure it out 100%. I can say this, I'll be using Lumilor in a very unique way to make it stand out at night and add some safety to be seen. Stay tuned.

Can't wait to see it. Those wheels are really cool

I kind of wish I would've done a modular dash, just to make maintenance much easier. I suppose I still could. Hummm.....

Man I thought about it too. I just couldn't get myself to chop up a CF dash. I really wanted to but got scared. lol

I love the look of everyone of these I have seen

M22_COBRA

06-13-2025, 07:04 AM

I've been working just not posting. Also life has been "plus size" recently. A few weeks ago a massive wind storm ripped the roof (shingles only) off my house, been dealing with repairs and insurance. We got Dad down to the Detroit Grand Prix. Then last week my wife loaned her car to a co worker for a 5 min trip and a Buck stepped out in front of it and smashed up the front end. Then in the same car Monday, my wife was on her way to the body shop and was T-Boned in an intersection and it totaled the car. Wife is 100% OK, no injuries other than a small rug burn on her left hand from the drivers side airbag curtain. That GMC Terrain is one safe vehicle, let me tell you.
So I've been occupied.
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As for the build there's a lot of minor details that aren't worth posting until now. Mostly put the item in, mock it up, take it out, work on this piece that interfaces with it, take it all out, make more holes, back in.... you get the picture. Its not hyper glamorous but its where I'm at in the build. There is also no road map for this part and I'm needing to think real hard before making a directional decision. I did send my hub to I.E.427 to get my turn signal going. Finally decided to stay with a fixed wood wheel. I was considering the removable MPI wheel with a Motion Race works hub. Meh, maybe way later down the road when I'm older and have issues getting in and out and want something to work on. Who knows, I see most get the build bug and do it again with a new car!

Work on the 3 panel removable dash continues. I drew up 3 closeout panels to support the dash and went thru send cut send. They are 5052 0.080", and have slotted attachments that go to rivnuts on the 2x2 and support the dash. The other goal is that it will give me another avenue to mount electrical "stuff" and wires. It allows the dash to be completely removable should the 3 panel removal be not enough. I also got my switches in and I got to say I really like my "start button" and the "Aux function" M22 button.
I think the only thing I may or may not add is courtesy lights underneath, but I'm not sure at this time. I think the footwell ones should be sufficient.
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As for the dash finish I'm going back and forth. My first direction was to powder coat the main and the 3 panels a nice flat black color as I do not want reflection. I want my eye to be able to zone in quickly on the gauge at any time. We work on this all the time on the Corvette as shiny is a no no for the race drivers. Which got me thinking about flock. We flock the dash in our cars, why cant I do it here? Its totally a doable / inexpensive DIY project with an electrostatic kit you can buy on amazon...? But cleaning may suck.
Then I got looking at the dash and realized the main panel with all these cutouts is not exactly straight anymore (it bows) and there are small gaps behind the panels (plus the bows) that I need to fill that are caused by the rivnuts. The latest method of thought is to use the FFR dash pad to cover the main panel and powder coat the 3 panels. Thoughts?

Next step will be to make the upper dash tabs with dual lock. Right now the uppers are just cleco'd in place. That hole wont be used or be visible with the body on. As it sits the dash is lock a rock, going no where.
24 hours of LeMans is this weekend so I'll have that on tv Sat/Sun cheering on the customer cars while I work on the Cobra.

M22_COBRA

06-13-2025, 07:20 AM

For reference
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M22_COBRA

06-23-2025, 10:55 AM

Made some dash tabs out of ASA and printed them solid. They accept either dual 10-24 fasteners w/ washer that use a 10-24 rivnut in the dash bar, or a self tapping screw to the dash bar. The tab is printed solid and once I mark the tab it is attached to the bar. I mark the alignment hole and transfer to the tab. I went against doing the dura lock as initially intended. It held but I didn't like the direction of the force the dash was applying on the Velcro so opted for a more positive system, but you could apply dura lock if desired.

I drilled the slightly undersized hole 75% of the way thru for the rivnut. Then with a soldering iron I pressed the rivnut into the ASA once it got hot enough. Now its set, flush, and thermally bonded to a really nice tab made from some badass material. The 75% depth leaves enough material to "shroom" out the back and help with retention. I could have gone nylon or CF for higher temp resistance but I have had good success with this material and it shouldn't get that hot. I also wont be wrenching on these bolts or applying a torque so breakout fear is minimal.

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M22_COBRA

06-30-2025, 07:21 AM

Took a break from the dash mounting. It was starting to wear on me and I'm not sure on the color, leather, suede, flock.....a Time out was needed I kept getting new ideas.

So I decided to fit up the roll bars for a change of pace. Mockup of the bars was pretty simple, ramping from small to large on the drill bit is key and step drill bits will be an MVP for getting the largest bits started.
I also wanted some extra visibility so I opted for some 6mm OZNIUM ed's in the down bars. I got a couple combination M6x1.0 taps to apply treads to the down bar. I used a very basic RP drill fixture to help set location and it did the job. Helped me keep them straight, control spacing, and consistent side to side rotational angle I also figured I could use it as a gauge off the edges to set the placement. Cheap and worked well, win win.
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Key note for anyone doing this!!! If you pass the wire loom out the bar at the bottom, make sure you place that hole properly (distance to the chassis post). So that when you fully compress the down leg to install the top hoop you don't have the hole so low it shears off the wires on the chassis post!
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I think the end result turned out well... on to the other side
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JMD

06-30-2025, 10:27 AM

I really liked using those light for 3rd brake option. A great way to add a safety factor without detracting from the lines and look of the car.

Love your dash project. You're putting a lot more effort into it than I wanted to. I had all sorts of ideas I wanted to try on my build, but by the time I got to that part I just kind wanted to get it done and often reduced the scope of work to something simpler. It's easy to get burned out on a project like this and sometimes just walking away for a while is the best call. Keep it up!

M22_COBRA

06-30-2025, 12:37 PM

I really liked using those light for 3rd brake option.... It's easy to get burned out on a project like this and sometimes just walking away for a while is the best call. Keep it up!

Thanks. My biggest issue with the dash is I keep getting more ideas on how to finish it. I ALSO keep getting more issues as I go for things I had not planned on.
Such as... after I removed the majority of the material from the main dash panel, installed it, attached the 3 thicker gauge pod panels, and applied the bends / tucked the panel.... The curvature applied forces the areas on the large panel that are thin at the top have a slight "wave" to them and create a unsightly gap to the back of the gauge panel. If I PC the panels you will see it, or potentially use the vinyl dash pad in the kit for the main, and PC the gauge panels. That might look cool. ??? IDK

But yes burn out can be a thing. That's why a needed a small win with the LED's to ramp up the excitement again.

M22_COBRA

07-07-2025, 08:47 PM

Dash work continues. Ran into a snag on the 3 panel system and the cancelling turn signal I just got back. The dash would need to raise so the column doesn't interfere with the gauge bezel and vice versa. There's not enough room to raise it and not goof up my under panels. I got an idea on how to make lemonade from these lemons.... It's pretty cool. Stand by. Photo dump from the weekend below. Bonus, the air show turn around was near the house so I got to see it while working on the car.
The cancelling turn signal is really nice btw. Got a new stalk coming that should dress it up a tad too match the gauges. I also got my RP light switch panel in. Somehow it's exactly 1" short. Not sure how that happened but I think it will serve the purpose and likely will leave it alone.
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M22_COBRA

07-21-2025, 02:53 PM

Lots to update. Feel like I turned the corner on electrical and I'm starting to make my terminations in the harness. Getting real good at the weather pack pin, crimp, solder, and assemble sequence. The first thing I hooked up was the E-STOP where I ran the two power cables up the tunnel and into the back dash area. The button it came with was Blah so I got a nice billet button with a back lit white logo that flashes when activated and goes solid when engaged. But DAMN I have to figure out something for the beeper. After about the third trial I started to lose my mind. We can do better. Maybe a raspberry Pi with a play list of cool sounds when engaged and disengaged.
I can hear it now. "GENTELMEN START...YOUR...ENGINES!" or "Hey MAV...Why are the wings coming out?" lol
Everything functions and I'm happy with it. https://www.instagram.com/m22.cobra/reel/DMWBWhKvSfz/

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Next I go back to last weeks problem. Self induced, but ya'll should be aware if you try this. I used the BCC three panel setup with the 8 gauge setup they sell, and got my i.e.427 self cancelling turn signal. Both great products but with placing my dash where it needs to go so it doesn't uncover the 1x1 dash hoop it kind of lock the dash in for location. Issue is when you use both items the second gauge hole and the OD of the turn signal are a bit too close and the vintage gauge outer ring would hit the turn signal.
What to do? I could have said efff it and got a replacement panel. But I always want the car to tell a story. I went to my trophy case and pulled out my employee Hendrick Motorsports Challenge coin from 2010. Mr. H gave them to us with our employee number on them and challenged us to get JJ his fifth straight championship. So I 3D printed up a 3 piece assembly in ASA with heat stake threaded inserts and a similar bezel on the gauge to seat the coin. I'm loving it. Once the panels ar PC flat black and the main dash panel is leathered out it will really look good.
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Franks self cancelling turn signal is also really nice! I used the video he posted and got the $10 chrome stalk to finish it off. Definitely a must have for one of these cars.
https://www.instagram.com/m22.cobra/reel/DMTFug7xTxt/

Lots still to terminate but we are creeping towards engine install.
If you read my post #18 here:https://www.instagram.com/m22.cobra/reel/DMTFug7xTxt/
You will see I had a rough time getting my headers and side pipes. The FedEX guy in MA... I'm sure is in the "find out stage" of his actions but the pipes and headers arrived with no issues. Shout out to FFR rep Tanya & my neighborhood friendly FedEX delivery gal Jennifer did a great job getting them here with a smile!
Looking forward to getting these installed.
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Mike.Bray

07-21-2025, 03:28 PM

I just cut the beeper off, too annoying.

Those polished stainless headers are so gorgeous, until they get heat in them. I ended up ceramic coating mine, always look great now and run cooler.

M22_COBRA

07-21-2025, 04:01 PM

I just cut the beeper off, too annoying.

Those polished stainless headers are so gorgeous, until they get heat in them. I ended up ceramic coating mine, always look great now and run cooler.

Can you install the Coyote with both headers attached or best to just do the driver's side?

Mike.Bray

07-21-2025, 04:17 PM

Can you install the Coyote with both headers attached or best to just do the driver's side?

No idea, I'm not a BUFF guy:p

M22_COBRA

07-22-2025, 08:17 AM

edwardb

07-22-2025, 08:26 AM

Serious question. Should you drop the coyote in with just the DS on or can you do both with the latest gen of FFR header? Ive seen it here before to bolt the ds up right before touchdown due to access. Is that still the best play?

Neither header can be in place when you drop the Coyote in. The DS (left) is definitely the most difficult to bolt up after it's in. PS (right) pretty easy. I've had a little success with not dropping it the last inch or two onto the motor mounts and then the DS is a bit easier to access. You can snake the header in there and get the bolts in before dropping it the rest of the way. Jury's out whether it's worth the effort though.

JMD

07-22-2025, 10:49 AM

I love the modular dash and personalized touch of the Hendrick coin. It doesn't get more custom to you, the builder, than that. Super cool.

Now that I've put some miles on the car with the stock gauge layout, I would do it differently next time. The gauge to the left of the steering wheel is pretty much useless. It takes me a couple seconds and moving my hand off the wheel to read the speedo in that location. What I've learned to do is know what rpm I'm running in 4th gear at 40 or 50 mph so I don't have to keep checking my speedo. (It's 2000 and 2200 rpm with the 3.55 rear gear and TKX transmission, btw.) I would keep the tach where it is and move the speed to a more central part of the dash much like what you've done there. And maybe gotten a tach that's easier to read at a glance than the FFR gauges. They look great, but aren't as easy to read as I would like. The things you learn!

Keep up the good work!

M22_COBRA

07-23-2025, 06:11 PM

What I've learned to do is know what rpm I'm running in 4th gear at 40 or 50 mph so I don't have to keep checking my speedo.

Keep up the good work!

Thanks! Two ideas I was toying with was to turn the rpm so the 7000 was at 12 o'clock so I'm good to watch where red line is easier.
OR
I already have a new gauge face that I want speed hut to swap in. Part of that face will have mini thick lines marking the TACH needle at 45, 55 , and 70 mph. Very similar to what you are trying to do

Tango

07-24-2025, 07:48 AM

I installed my coyote a few weeks ago, declared victory, and sent the helpers on their way….. then realized I needed to lift it out of the brackets to remove the studs and install the headers. I was dreading it, but it turns out it is not that big of a deal. You literally only lift it a few inches (supporting the trans at the same time). I was stressing about it but it only took my son and I about 30 minutes to do it.

TXeverydayDad

07-24-2025, 08:26 AM

I took most of the header studs out before dropping the engine in. My thinking was that I could use 2 studs on each side to align and mount the header more easily. I ended up removing the studs later and would remove them from the start next time. Also, depending on what lift brackets you have, make sure you have enough room to get them off after installation.

The headers go on without too much trouble, it’s just tight and takes time. Plan an hour for the DS header install and you’ll be pleasantly surprised when you’re done before that. It’s about managing expectations to avoid frustration.

M22_COBRA

07-24-2025, 10:11 AM

TXeverydayDad

07-24-2025, 10:23 AM

So if I'm tracking right from the previous responses. Install with no studs, stop the engine an inch or two before touchdown, support the trans, install studs (both sides?) and the DS header, full send to the motor mounts?

Sounds about right. You’ll need to use header bolts instead of studs as the studs won’t fit in all locations. I didn’t want to get under the hanging engine so I installed everything once it was seated on the mounts, but it can be done either way. And I would add some RTV to the bolts as well.

You got this! It’s easier than it seems.

M22_COBRA

07-26-2025, 09:38 AM

Sounds about right. You’ll need to use header bolts instead of studs as the studs won’t fit in all locations.... And I would add some RTV to the bolts as well.
You got this! It’s easier than it seems.

Thanks for the reminder on rtv. Bolts just forgot to write but yes space is premo. Lots of steps between them and now, just preparing.

Success is when preparation meets opportunity.

Side note, All I have left behind the dash is wiring the high beam button, leds' in the foot box button, and Start button. I did put power to the gauges last night and they all came on EVEN THE CLOCK!?! Looks like SpeedHut sends those with illumination capability!

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M22_COBRA

07-27-2025, 09:13 PM

A lot of work for not a lot of finish end product to show for it. But the switches are wired up. All that's left is hooking them up to the relays then organizing the gang fight of wires behind that panel.
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M22_COBRA

08-06-2025, 10:44 AM

Real busy building, not so much on the posting... What can I say Im enjoying the build again.

I'm almost thru the electrical under dash. I got the High beams wired and integrated to the turn signal per the IE 427 directions. Last steps under dash for me will be integrating LEDS for the courtesy light, and mounting the relays. I choose to make a bracket that suspends them over top the loom on the bottom shelf. I'll still need to do plenty of organizing once its powered up and confirmed working.

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My rear bar LED's that were on back order finally came in so now I can do the DS (next item up). I originally wanted to do 5 on each bar, facepalm I did 6 and shorted myself for the other side. The alternative option was go with the 5 and make the bottom 6th hole white for reverse but it would tear up a lot and possibly scrap the led's I had finished. -$$ :(.... I decided to order 2 more and make all 6 red. I'll likely put 2 white somewhere else for back up lights. These things are so small they may sit next to or just below the license plate in the body.
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This weekend Dad came up and we swapped the Coyote MOROSO oil pan. Pretty simple task. Only trouble was the tab on the pickup was a bit off on angle. It was hitting the scavenge tray / gasket that comes in the Forte kit. A small trip to the vice had it marginally adjusted on angle and it fit great.
NOTE: One piece of advice on install is to swing the tube away from the engine (toward the PS) and push it on in the receiver, then swing it back into place (towards the DS). Trying to push it on or per the instructions by using a dead blow and a punch to get it on is not as effective or easy.

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Next was to install the STS / STX mid (front) shifter. I have a special shifter I'll show later that will make it all make sense. Needed a clean up on the TKX as the box dust and the factory oil made a crappy paste. A blast of air and a wipe down and we were ready to go. I trimmed the neutral safety as its inoperable with the STX, drained any remaining fluid, and popped the covers off. The instructions were very simple to follow. Remove the rear center rod, the rear selector and mostly just remove the roll pins to get the upper selectors out.

The most nerve racking part was you need to cut the side rails. But the shifter gives you a ring that aligns with the roll pin hole and you just death wheel off the excess and remove the burrs. Actually it was a pretty simple job.
Buttoned up the case, installed the new STX selectors, and installed the STS. Checking the function it seems pretty good, that throw from neutral to 3rd is damn short! Overall really nice piece even if it is $$ I think it is worth it for my end product.

Now I m looking at tires to hit the ground and start prepping for engine install. Considering the Nitto NT-05's 255 & 315 as the leading candidate.

JMD

08-07-2025, 11:45 AM

With a clutch safety you don't really need a neutral safety anyway. I didn't do a neutral or brake safety switch, just the clutch and it's safe without being cumbersome. I know some people don't even use the clutch safety (*cough* Greg *cough*), but I think it's nice to have...just in case.

I'm glad you're enjoying the build again. I'm digging the Moroso pan.

M22_COBRA

08-20-2025, 08:55 AM

Short update. The STX short throw front "mid position" had an issue with the reverse lockout not working. I could go straight from 5th to reverse no issue.
Keep in mind I got this part from Summit and was dreading the swap process. I said WTH and I called STS direct. They were very helpful and I sent them some photos and a video of the issue. They diagnosed it was installed properly and likely had an issue inside the mechanism.
They promptly got me a shipping label and as soon as the label posted sent & that it was on the way they got me a new STS in the mail. I had it in hand 3 days later, bolted it up, and it functioned as intended. Great customer service from STS Transmissions.

https://youtube.com/shorts/U4kAbS2vq8c?si=3SHLfXAGNlTQ9xYp

M22_COBRA

08-22-2025, 12:29 PM

Got my new DPDT switch in. Amazon did in fact send me the wrong 28V one. 12V DPDT switch has all the lights and directionals 100%.
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I'm finishing up the DS LED's on the rear roll bar now that OZNIUM sent the two that were on backorder.
Next up... engine install! You may have seen the other post I had yesterday about not being able to check the SMR signal ( because the engine isn't in). Note to future coyote havin' builders and confirmed by FORD, if the engine isn't plugged into the PCM/ECU you cant complete the circuit and you wont get a signal when you turn the key. Suspicion confirmed.
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I'm getting my roof redone and there is a nice pallet the shingles are sitting on. Think I'll cut that bad boy up so I can take the engine off the stand and install the rest of the drivetrain. If I need to move it again it has the FFR engine mounts on it and Ill just use the hoist. YEAH BABY!
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I'll also be test fitting the FFR headers that arrived within a few days of placing the order. No thanks to the UPS guy (side eye / see previous post). I also got my order for tyres placed, should be here Saturday. Selected the Nitto NT-05 255/40/17 and 315/35/17's
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Lots of cool stuff happening and Im on schedule with trying t get the engine in by end of summer while working 2 jobs... Ha!

Lastly, it's POLKA FEST this weekend! Maybe not as much work getting done as initially intended but.... Paxton would still recommend 10 out of 10
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M22_COBRA

08-25-2025, 10:33 AM

Super limited time this weekend but I got the prelim electrical done and working. So all my lights switches and indicators are working ( in the rear). I'll do the front later.
It was super late when I finished so I'll post up the end result on the leds and turn signal later today.

I need to figure out a strategy with the engine mount as I put it on the pallet. The Moroso pan is not all flat so it will need a 2" step I'll have to configure. But that's next.

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M22_COBRA

08-25-2025, 05:23 PM

As promised...
https://www.instagram.com/reel/DNy0x5iQhUl/?igsh=cDd3MnJjemI5ZWhq

M22_COBRA

09-02-2025, 08:06 AM

Spent the weekend on getting the engine ready. I deleted the IMRC on the GT350 manifold and held the valves open with a couple quality zip ties. Made sure I ran the bolts back in to create a lip should they shift once they get hot. Doubt it, but cheap insurance. I saw that some companies are selling 3D printed parts to hold these in place. Blew my mind that some were going for $45. I know I have CAD capability and a printer, and its a bigger deal for others but man it cost $1.50 in Nylon material and maybe 10 mins CAD time. :eek:
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Got the Motor mounts installed. The welds on the mounts were a bit large and interfered with the spacer so that needed a bit of clearance on the edge of the spacer so the spacer and mount stack would lay flat. DONE
Also started the sending unit asm. I'm gonna need some copper crush / backing washers to get the thread timing correct. Ugh
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Lastly I did as many of the coolant hoses bypassing and capping as I could. Figured it would be easier on the stand vs in the chassis.

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Plan is to go to ground with a chopped up pallet section to support the Moroso pan and leave it hooked up to the engine hoist for stability. Any concerns from the community there? Its how they show it in the manual but I know others have spent time making their own stand. I just cant justify the $ for something that wont be on the ground that long.
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M22_COBRA

09-08-2025, 06:24 AM

I may have been bit by the FFR instructions again. I torqued the flywheel bolts to 80ft with Loctite :(
This will be the last time I trust this manual for a torque spec and unplug my brain. I should know better. Let this be a lesson to the other builders out there to research the specs what it comes to torque values, learn from my mistake.

All the bolts clicked except one it got to 78 and just kept creeping on the next pump so I just stopped I know its there. Question is I think the bolts are torqued way out of spec. A standard M10x1.0 should be 48ft# (slap head)
I think the safe play here is get a new set and install to the proper torque. Better safe than sorry.
Anyone want to talk me out of it?

gbranham

09-08-2025, 07:15 AM

For your reading pleasure...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?45576-Sheared-a-Flywheel-bolt-what-s-the-right-torque-(Gen3-Coyote)

Jeff Kleiner

09-08-2025, 07:49 AM

As I said in the link Greg posted...Ford bolts, Ford specs. It bit my friend and he pulled the threads out of his flywheel.

Going from memory here so check me with the Ford manual (there may be some variation by model year) but I think the flywheel goes in two stages up to 170ish lb/in (inches, not feet!) plus 60 degrees. I think the pressure plate is something like 45 lb/ft plus 60 degrees.

Bummer M22; sure hope you didn't pull the threads out of the crank :(

Jeff

M22_COBRA

09-08-2025, 09:32 AM

Ugh... Jeff I hope so too. For clarity I was using Forte's Ram clutch with his flywheel & bolts

Thanks gbranham

M22_COBRA

09-08-2025, 09:34 AM

For your reading pleasure...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?45576-Sheared-a-Flywheel-bolt-what-s-the-right-torque-(Gen3-Coyote)

Yep, that was the exact post I was looking at when my heart sank. Any thoughts on leaving it? There was that other guy in the chat that did the same and car was complete.
My fear is when I back the bolts out it snaps or kills the thread. Right now they are in and tight. But safety first.

Just talking thru all options before taking action.

gbranham

09-08-2025, 10:10 AM

It really depends on how you feel about it. If its going to bother you every time you drive, then I'd fix it. There's a massive difference between 177in-lbs and the 960 in-lbs (80ft-lbs) you applied. If it was mine, I'd tear it apart, inspect and replace as needed. I'd worry the flywheel would separate from the crankshaft every time I revved it up.

Greg

Jeff Kleiner

09-08-2025, 11:08 AM

Yep, that was the exact post I was looking at when my heart sank. Any thoughts on leaving it? There was that other guy in the chat that did the same and car was complete.
My fear is when I back the bolts out it snaps or kills the thread. Right now they are in and tight. But safety first.

Just talking thru all options before taking action.

Well...it'll "probably" be OK but if you're like my wife when it comes to her questions about her horse trailer and truck "Probably isn't good enough." Thing is that if you reached a point where the bolt was turning but the torque wasn't increasing it was either tearing the threads off of the bolt or crankshaft. If you're lucky it was only the bolt. Only way to know is to remove it---do you feel lucky?

Jeff

M22_COBRA

09-08-2025, 11:32 AM

I'm on the phone with Mike now to get new. I'll see what I got right now when I back them out. Hope and pray in any situation is a terrible strategy. Thanks guys

JeffP

09-08-2025, 12:38 PM

Yep, that was the exact post I was looking at when my heart sank. Any thoughts on leaving it? There was that other guy in the chat that did the same and car was complete.
My fear is when I back the bolts out it snaps or kills the thread. Right now they are in and tight. But safety first.

Just talking thru all options before taking action.

I think I'm the other guy... I read your thread and the linked thread thinking man this sounds familiar, I really hope I didn't mess that up.. Then saw my own post.

I can say I've got 5000mi on it with no issues, so I'll consider myself lucky. My entire package was also from Forte.

M22_COBRA

09-08-2025, 12:47 PM

I think I may have gotten away with one Y'all. The horsepower gods must have gave me a pass because the threads are 100% fine. I slowly backed out the bolts / after a smack with the ball peen hammer to break any Loctite that hardened.
The thread locker had not even set up yet. You can see in the bolt photo that the stretch was for real, especially the third one from the right. It had the start of that hour glass shape.
Got a new set of bolts on the way and I'm a bit wiser moving forward.
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gbranham

09-08-2025, 05:53 PM

That's excellent news. I know the feeling of dodging a huge bullet when I used the wrong cylinder head bolts. Developed a coolant leak, and torqued the offending head bolt until it snapped. Terrible feeling. I thought I was facing a complete engine removal and teardown, but I got lucky. I'm happy for you!

Greg

M22_COBRA

09-10-2025, 09:15 PM

Tires are on, that is all.
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M22_COBRA

09-15-2025, 06:43 AM

Well ####...

I went to put in the trans Friday night everything torqued setup proper. Picked up the trans and went to install...CLUNK. Don't fit, sitting back 3". I thought maybe the crap plastic alignment tool did me dirty. Nope. Maybe its just a smidge off so I got it as close I actuated the clutch fork with a pair ratcheting clamps...nope. I got down looked in the bore and that's when I saw it. Got my full trans package from Forte - Trans is a 26 spline, Ram clutch says 11x26 on the box, but the clutch plate itself and the aliment tool in the box is a 10 spline. Looks like I'll be calling Mike. I should have caught it earlier but damn the luck.
***UPDATE*** Mike had a replacement plate and alignment tool sent out as of 11am this morning, it will be here Thursday
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I spent the rest of the weekend reorganizing the garage and consolidating boxes, making notes what is where, boring stuff.

Last thing I did was I have a 2018 IRS and used the 2018 OEM Mustang rear brake package, with 17" rims. Note to future builders (and it is already on here), you will need to grind the caliper some to get it to fit with the 17" FFR Halibrands. Plan for 18's if this bothers you. I got a 5mm spacer and tried it but there are two issues with it. It been posted before but I'll put my experiences here for others to learn from.

If you go with a spacer
#1 You will need longer studs, didn't feel like redoing this because I have shields on my assembly. Big PITA.
#2 The 5mm spacer is perfect for what you need but you have about half the engagement on the hub center ring. It just didn't look sufficient to me.
#3 the FFR studs are already a bit short IMO, I always like to see min 1 thread sticking out. But by the math as intended there is enough engagement. This pushes it way too far.

If you stay the 17" wheel and 2018+ Mustang OEM brake path and no spacer
A. You will need to work with the people balancing the tires to put your weights in a very specific spot. I told them to stay away from the outer 1.5" edge at the spoke. Everything cleared fine that way but watch it.
B. You will need to grind 1/8" off the corner of the caliper and make the radius flat.

I marked it with painters tape and paint pen, ground it down and have a pretty consistent +1/8" gap at min. Used some diamond bits off Amazon in the air drill and took it slow and snuck up on it. Im good with the final but could go more if I need to.

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M22_COBRA

09-17-2025, 03:55 PM

Clutch with the 26 splines should be here tomorrow.
But the good news is... The car is on the ground!
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M22_COBRA

09-22-2025, 09:23 AM

Clutch assembled, car raked and ready, should be putting on the trans and trans mount tonight. I also swapped plugs from the OG drop out. Probably not necessary but one less thing to troubleshoot at startup.
Plan is to install Saturday once I get my helper. Small odds and ends till then. Do you need to move the reservoirs?

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Blitzboy54

09-22-2025, 11:45 AM

Those gold wheels are great. I can't wait to see what your scheme is. I love it a design choice.

cv2065

09-22-2025, 02:42 PM

Wheels look great. Love it when builders go off the reservation with creativity. Watching to see it all come together!

M22_COBRA

09-23-2025, 07:57 AM

Giggity.... damn thing slid right together. I did take 600 grit to the housing and made a quick pass on the bell housing edges to be sure before hand.
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M22_COBRA

09-28-2025, 08:51 PM

Coyote went in really well. Really no drama. Key items I'll repeat here from other posts.
1. Remove all the bungs on the left and right sides from the oil pan. They can get hung up on the chassis mounts.
2. Reservoir out, the coyote lift arms will likely wipe it out.
3. The ratchet strap works!

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The strap sure worked great, loop the tail shaft, under the chassis, and over a back bar on the hoist. Tighten it up, drop some, let as some out, drop repeat. After a couple cycles you didn't need to let the strap out. As you drop the engine it lets slack out of the strap and find level. Hardest part was getting the hoist to go straight.

Engines down rear trans brace is in but now I have a new problem. I HAVE THE FFR COYOTE INSTALL PACKAGE WITH THE 1/2" SPACERS INSTALLED BOTH SIDES.
But the engine is still too low. The Tremec bell housing is hanging down 1/4" - 5/16??? I have no spacer at the back of the trans. I know most use 3/4"ish.
The bottom of crank pulley is about 1/4" from the top of the chassis rail. If I add spacer at the tail shaft which should be for driveline angle that will push the crank pulley closer to the frame rail which I don't want.

I think I may need the Whitby spacers in addition?
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ANY SUGGESTIONS???

M22_COBRA

09-29-2025, 02:33 PM

Per outside discussions it sounds like what I have is normal and I may have to grind the bell housing. That's disappointing. The Tremec housing is a nice piece hate to grind on it (more). Plan is to set pinion angle, determine trans spacer, then re-evaluate.

M22_COBRA

10-06-2025, 09:37 AM

Had a great weekend and got some stuff done namely the pinion / engine height , and Metco loop.

Engine height and DS angles were not optimum and this was frustrating. After a long think and evaluation here's how I worked around this, hopefully this helps someone else in the future here is what I did.

(1) I realize I can only control what I can control, and the rear gear angle is out of my control as I'm not cutting and rewelding.
(2) I Unbolted the rear DS, confirmed / re clean the mating surfaces ( no pebbles etc. ) / rotate it on it axis 180 degrees from the original position & re-fasten to the gear and torque it.
This worked many times at the tracks with high speed vibrations that you couldn't get rid of. Sometimes you just get a DS that isnt happy in the original position. This was the case for me as the numbers improved slightly

(3) Try to raised the engine till it cleared -> yielded a 7.5 deg DS angle.... NOPE! Cant do that, just accept it will hang down and work that problem with a chassis rub strip.
(4) Remeasured with the +3/4 spacer (maybe 7/8 total?) on the tranny and found it was the "best" I could get balancing engine height and respectable angles -> 3 deg up front / 4 deg in rear / 1 deg split
(5) The oil pan hangs the rear weld down 1/16" and the bell housing about 3/8" with this spacer. Cant / wont fix that. I'm going to bolt a strip material to warn me on the underside of the rails to protect for the speed bumps in town like the builder above. I ordered a set of 26" long 5/8" tall steel concrete forming stakes, the more involved version is to order a strip of A36 and machine holes. If something jumps up and hits me, well that can happen if it was above the rails too and without a massive redesign that wont be fixed.

The first photo is no spacer, final product has the weld just peeking out from below the frame rail. The bellhousing is just straight disrespectful and flapping in the breeze.

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The Metco loop is a really nice piece but seemed to sit really far back. I trimmed 3/4" off the leading edge of the lower bracket and moved it forward, as my A frame trans mount orientation didn't allow it to move. Its happy now. Be advised that you should get some longer bolts for the bracket to hoop connection ( and it says this in the instructions ). I needed quite a bit of spacer to raise the hoop so the DS did not hit. And shifted it to the DS to avoid hitting the chassis angle 1x1 in the tunnel.

The engine being low I can go two routes. First I ordered a set of 5/8" tall steel pre drilled concrete angle stakes ($30 for the set). I'll see if those fit up underneath neatly as can act as warning rub strips for speed bumps. If that's a no go I'll just order some raw A36 or maybe Docol and machine in holes with countersinks ($$)

M22_COBRA

10-21-2025, 09:23 PM

Moving slowly but moving. I got the starter installed, Alternator hooked up, and my other header on, copper rtv gasket path. put it on thick ish, let it sit for a day then torque it up. Also started cleaning up wires and hooked up the fuel line.

I was getting parts for my header support hangers at Lowe's and when I got to the angles bits to attach at the flange it occurs to me that I can utilize the unused 90 deg brackets in the e brake kit. Again I'm running the estopp so I have all those nice plasma cut bits just sitting in a bag. All I needed to do was open the hole slightly and shoot it with bbq paint. Hope this helps someone else.
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M22_COBRA

10-31-2025, 07:13 AM

Hangers are in. Ill swap the nylon nuts for brass ones once I can get some. It will likely be on pipe mock up though. Biggest challenge next is mounting the Moroso exp tank. I'm gonna cad up some options and fire up the 3d printer before I send anything to OSHcut.
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Oh, and I was going to my inlaws that run a B&B in town and evidently a guest brought this to play with. Not a regular occurrence you see in Northern MI
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M22_COBRA

10-31-2025, 03:26 PM

Forgot to show I got the engine wired and cleaned up with all the O2's routed. I made an extender from the Mustang wiring harness and used their female connector. Feels nice to reuse and repurpose.
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I also got started on making my MOROSO expansion tank mount. I may have gone overboard doing FEA on it but at 3 G in all directions:
1. I have almost no stress and can drop the thickness a gauge (maybe two)
2. Frequency is above 40Hz, winner winner chicken dinner!
3. Deformation is laughable
4. And its has enough adjustability to overcome tolerance stack / fit in the car

I will likely slot the main bracket and make the gussets tab and slot for weld, rerun it, then OSHcut here I come!

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Mike.Bray

11-01-2025, 10:41 AM

I also got started on making my MOROSO expansion tank mount. I may have gone overboard doing FEA on it but at 3 G in all directions:
1. I have almost no stress and can drop the thickness a gauge (maybe two)
2. Frequency is above 40Hz, winner winner chicken dinner!
3. Deformation is laughable
4. And its has enough adjustability to overcome tolerance stack / fit in the car

I will likely slot the main bracket and make the gussets slide it for weld, rerun it, then OSHcut here I come!

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Fun stuff!

Are you planning on welding the bracket to the tank? You might check into 3M DP810 acrylic adhesive. We use it at my company for bonding lots of things where we need sanitation but can't have any distortion that full welds would cause. As long as you have the surface area it will hold.

M22_COBRA

11-03-2025, 07:45 AM

Fun stuff!

Are you planning on welding the bracket to the tank? You might check into 3M DP810 acrylic adhesive. We use it at my company for bonding lots of things where we need sanitation but can't have any distortion that full welds would cause. As long as you have the surface area it will hold.

I'm going to get some blue devil brazing rods and at min get the gussets brazed on DIY since its 5052. Had not thought about welding them together, but I think I will get it 3d printed first, check fit, order the parts, braze gussets, then see how it all stacks up.
At min I can bolted it in place to get the position then potentially weld.

M22_COBRA

11-07-2025, 07:29 AM

Mockup of the expansion tank and per routing cooling hoses went well. Never mind the blue tape, I just wasn't ready to add the holes on the chassis just yet till I get the real part and use the transfer punch. I think this is high enough to burp the system, just also fearful of hitting the body if I go too far the other way. Its been a while since I worked on the car so some details are a bit fuzzy, must take better notes when I stop you never know how long the break will be.
I also got my HPS sleeve bonded to the FFR supplied intake hose. I have a Bullitt intake which is the GT350 intake which means I have a TB that is marginally larger. The HPS sleeve works perfect and after the bonding and a swipe of some good copper rtv on the edge its sealed up. Left it copper as it will be easier to see failures at first, I'll likely top coat it with black once I have confidence. All the rest of the hoses fell in place well, and I have the TB MAF sensor to the front. I think this is the latest consensus for placement with the least amount of issues.
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Next up is finishing the PS exhaust and bungee mount, torque the DS flange bolts once I can swap the SHCS for hex, install the forte cable clutch parts, then hopefully once the OshCut parts get here braze the bracket parts and install.

M22_COBRA

12-11-2025, 08:44 AM

Car is 90% plumed, just need the cool tube for the lower to get here and It will be ready to add fluids. The custom expansion tank mount worked out great, I decided against brazing in the gussets, its stiff enough. I think it turned out well.
Next step is to figure out what to do next. Its damn cold in the garage, takes the heater at least an hour to get the air working, and Ive been limited to the weekend on time. May be thinking on detailing the dash and wrapping the leather AT least that I can do in the basement.
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M22_COBRA

12-23-2025, 07:24 AM

Updates haven't been as regular... its friggin cold up here in Northern MI. and the garage is hard to work in more than 4 hours. I've relocated the next portion of the build to the basement ( after the glue de-gasses) but I've started to wrap the dash. I am using the FFR pad and leather. I'm sure there is nicer stuff out there but my plan it to have the tri panel for the gauges PC black and it should look nice and clean. Which segways' into the next item... powder coating. Had the option to go back to the coater for all my hinges and little parts or go buy my own setup. They did an awesome job on my wheels but I settled on Eastwoods for less than half of what the pro wanted. I figure I would use it for other projects so why not. Waiting on the oven as its on a 2 week delay but I know I wont get to it till after xmas so no big deal. I have all the parts set aside / removed ready for cleaning and prep. Also looking at sending my gauges out to Speed hut for some personalization, got the majority of the idea down but still poking at it. Exciting stuff coming!
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Also, Merry Xmas to me... I decided after much resistance to change from the manual rack to the FFR KRC PS setup. For those that don't know its not as much for dry park or cruising effort. The PS setup allows for more Caster which gives better stability at higher speed / less darty. One more thing I get to assemble with DAD so it will be worth it for the time spent together! Merry Christmas to you and yours!

Mike.Bray

12-23-2025, 10:11 AM

Also, Merry Xmas to me... I decided after much resistance to change from the manual rack to the FFR KRC PS setup. For those that don't know its not as much for dry park or cruising effort. The PS setup allows for more Caster which gives better stability at higher speed / less darty. One more thing I get to assemble with DAD so it will be worth it for the time spent together! Merry Christmas to you and yours!

Three things I really enjoy about driving my Cobra.

The over-the-top experience of a Cobra

Power steering

Hydraulic clutch

You won't regret upgrading to PS.

M22_COBRA

01-05-2026, 04:17 PM

Lots to update. First the cable clutch, I have the Forte effort reducer but its not really great for a coyote as it hangs egregiously lower than the frame rail. Like if I was landing at night on a carrier, it could be the tail hook. Without it the cable hits the oil pan and you can not install the cable without it. So I drew up a few mock up parts to keep the length but offset the cable so its not crashing into the ground. Ran the mockup parts on my 3d printer and 3 revisions later I think I'm really close. It keeps the cable up and the arm off the ground, above the rail (slightly), only catch is it will put the arm in a less than ideal load angle. The part will be laser sintered stainless 316L, or I could CNC it from A1011. The hand calc says the section is good, FEA says the stress is well within limits of the add on part.... jut not sure on the clutch arm. It will likely wear something a bit sooner but how much is anyone's guess. Chime in if I'm potentially missing something.
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I ordered my FFR PS and everything but the KRC pump arrived....boo. Next steps will be to take out the old rack, ad get the new one in and start eyeing line routing. Have to pause till the pump gets here.
Also got a blasting cabinet and an Eastwood PC kit. Everything but the oven arrived. It says Early Feb... boo.

Which leads me to my last item, I got the dash wrapped in the FFR "material" and finished mocking up all my plates, gauge pods, ect. Now all that's left is to PC the panels (eyeroll) and order the sintered metal coin pod. I left the top flap up to check some fitment but have since glued it back down and it's nice and secured
Lots of hurry up and wait.
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M22_COBRA

01-12-2026, 10:26 AM

Going to jot down my thoughts from the weekend trying to install the FFR PS kit and the Breeze adjustment slugs.
1. The Breeze PS rack adjustment slugs are beautiful and PERFECT. The fit is REALLY good on a mass production rack. Bravo!
2. The power steering rack without the isolators and the Breeze parts doesn't want to fit. You will have to take the edge off the slotted side with a grinder, diamond lollypop, or file.
Here's why: The FFR rack in their kit has a casting for the drive on the drivers side, The passenger side is a tube that is swaged / crimped to the casting. The mass production nature likely has a tolerance where the clocking of the two pieces varies, with worst case the two bosses are not co-planar to "X" amount. Not a big deal when the isolators are in place, but with fixed hard mount Breeze adjustment slugs you can see that the non planar condition makes it "not fit" in some cases.

Also got me thinking with no isolation does this increase the failure rate of the welded PS boss where FFR added a steering brace?

3. Rack went in after a little grinding, took some off for added clearance to the boots on the LCA tabs. It was extra fat, maybe 3/16"...not going to cause an issue.
4. The rack on first measure is dead nutz equal to the 2x3 on both sides. That was lucky (maybe I'm missing something). I may have to trim some off the DS inner rod as I am out of adjustment but the wheel is "straight" at droop. BUT I'LL WAIT until I get it on the ground and closer to ride height and go karting. Also wait on locking down the wheel and shaft clocking for the same reason.

All in all pretty good weekend, I'll get the pump mounted and the lines run next and get photos.

M22_COBRA

01-12-2026, 11:13 AM

UPDATE: After reading more and finding threads that I didn't see the first time. I see the Mk4 doesn't really need to Breeze bushings, FFR adjusted the issue causing it. Damn $$$

M22_COBRA

01-16-2026, 07:40 AM

Got the KRC PS installed. Plan is bleed the system with a drill next, just waiting on the KRC fluid to get here. I'm not ready to start the engine but I do want to find out if I have issues with this kit right now. Remove the belt, add fluid, Allen socket to the pulley, turn it over, refill, repeat, sweep left / right... repeat if necessary, top off fluid, done. Very similar to priming a dry sump oil pump on a cup motor. Not sure if it will spin backward right after you prime like a oil pump would but that's bad. I'm just going to hang on to the puller for a good 30 seconds till any back pressure subsides because spinning a pump backward is always bad in my exp.
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Line routing was no drama, I plan on doing some line clipping soon (after the prime and check for leaks). I ran the hardlines a bit different from the directions. I put both 90 deg sides at the rack and made use of the AN 90 deg in the FFR kit at the resi return. It lays flatter at the cylinder head to the reservoir and the turn out of the rack is cleaner vs 1 straight and 1 90deg. Its an extra leak point but its right on top of the pump so low risk for a nicer system. Maybe I'll change to to a permanent 90? That's how the part should have been done in the first place from FFR but I get they are trying to commonize parts and max profit by making them the same.

Now the Wilwood master cylinders. There are many posts out there explaining why you should not use the Wilwood MC's (wont get into it here / go read). I had one go bad right out of the box and FFR replaced it no questions asked / no apology or "were making changes" either. :mad: A while back when I finished the system I took a wait and see approach but every time I got out to the car I pump up the pedal / hold it / put cycles on it. Still no change. But call me crazy out of no where I had a very realistic dream in a very specific part of my town and the pedal went to the floor. Needless to say it felt like something was trying to tell me to make the change. So Tilton 75's are on order. I also got these American made banjos on order that have a inverted flare to match my existing lines & 3/8-24 banjo bolt to integrate to the Tilton (Wilwood uses 1/8-27 NPT with and inverted flare adapter). PM me if you want the vendor b/c they aren't a supporting vendor. Fingers crossed this all works out and I don't have to redo brake lines.
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M22_COBRA

01-16-2026, 07:43 AM

Oh almost forgot! I got the clutch arm adapter dialed in. I'll be sending this out to get laser sintered out of 316L stainless. Cable goes dead straight and Im above the rail. Stay tuned.
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Mike.Bray

01-16-2026, 10:48 AM

I used the 76 series Tilton master cylinders which use banjo fittings for the inlet and outlet.

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M22_COBRA

01-16-2026, 10:57 AM

Mike.Bray

01-17-2026, 10:14 AM

Yeah I saw that, beautiful work. I looked at the 76 but it was a bridge too far on the return side with the banjo. Only assumption I made was the 75 has the same surface area for the crush washer on the back as its setup for AN. If not, more tear up on the way and I'll spend more $$$ on the fittings for the return. I wonder if there is a 3/8-24 to barb? Then I could run the 76. We will see.

You should get banjo fittings to adapt to just about anything. If I was doing this again I would use -4 AN hose for the supply from the firewall to the master cylinders. Easier to work with.

M22_COBRA

01-31-2026, 07:40 PM

Important milestone ( for me) today! I filled the tkx and popped the shifter on where I've been waiting forever to evaluate the final position. This was the last part I designed for the race team. It's Chase Elliott's road course shifter he used in the 2020 championship run. It places the shifter in the perfect position while using the STS. It's one of the special touches I wanted for myself and I'm super happy it all worked out. I got my hands on one after the cup guys changed to sequential shifters.
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Starting to work on other fab stuff like the pass thru rear panel and moving up the rear panels. I'll wait to figure them down till after go kart. Also got the lower cooling tube in, took some tweaking but it's in there and secured with a p clip to the chassis. No photos but I'll get around to it.
I also got the blue sea power outlet routed in the back. Seemed to be a very popular add on so I figured why not.
I'm waiting for it to get above freezing and trees quit exploding before I go filling the power steering with fluid. If I spill it have a leak I don't want to deal with it while it's this cold in the garage.