Chris' Coupe Build #566 - Rear Camera. EPBs. Hatch floor.

[460.465USMC]

Looks great, like it came from the factory with that bracket.

The lay person won't appreciate the results of these fine garage engineering moments, but we do. Keep up the good work

Thanks, Jim! I agree. In fact, I texted a picture of it to my brother-in-law, and he replied with, "Nice welding job", referring to the Moroso tank. :p


You beat me to it Chris. I too need to make this bracket and since my fabrication skills are somewhere below Neanderthal (thinking Australopithecus), I have been dragging my feet. I was also going to make a PCM bracket but since I decided to punch mine through the firewall, I'm off the hook on that.

I like the cap too. I have been looking at alternatives and hadn't seen that one.

Australopithecus...That's hilarious! Had to consult the inter-webs to learn about that one. On the parts of the build that are especially challenging for me (like this Moroso mod), taking the first step of getting the tools out, starting the measurements, etc. can be the hardest part. Then once I get some momentum, the process becomes rewarding.


Nice work. Looks very familiar. :cool: Glad it worked for you. Planning to do something similar with my current Mk5 Roadster build. But don't know how much it will be like that version.

If only you would provide detailed measurements and step-by-step instructions. :p Just kidding! Figuring out how to duplicate these things is the fun part for me. Thanks, Paul, for generously sharing your ideas and designs in your build threads. So helpful.


Nice fab work! If it ain’t custom then we didn’t build it ourselves. Great work.

Thanks, Mark. It would be fun to look over the shoulder of a pro at work (like yourself) and see their techniques (and tools!).

[460.465USMC]

Bracketry, “A basic mounting apparatus created from metal. Complex examples are recorded in the annals of kit-car-building wizards. Aluminum is preferred. Prevalent in Factory Five builds. An indispensable pillar upon which the “Built not Bought” ethos rests. Bracketry sightings are frequently seen inside the garages of those who don’t follow instructions well.” Though still a Padawan learner, I aspire to become a bracketry Jedi when I grow up.

PCM bracket: Unlike many decisions, how and where to mount the PCM was a pretty fast one for me. Mostly because I pulled another page from Edwardb’s playbook. But also because the location he used is close to the location I used on my MK4 (F5 recommended). For those two reasons, I’m pretty confident the harnesses will reach where they need to go.

However, F5 supplied the MK4 chassis PCM bracket with my kit. Not much use on the Coupe. So, I followed Edwardb’s lead, and picked up a 2” wide x 1/4” thick length of aluminum bar. Drilled and tapped it for the mounting ears. I have a piece of heater hose under the mounting ears. That’s probably not needed, nor are the silicone pads supporting the rear of the PCM. But they make me feel better. Guess I’m consistent. When it’s time, the bracket will be attached to the chassis with 3/16” rivets (4 ea).

Here it is with the PCM laying in position. The Eastwood chassis match doesn't exactly match the chassis PC, but will be hidden. I just didn't want to leave it uncoated.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221894&d=1763763125


View with the PCM bolted in place. The top of the PS FB is getting pretty busy: PCM, heater control valve, Coyote PDB, mega fuse, and eventually the wiper motor.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221895&d=1763763125


View from the side.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221896&d=1763763125


Dead pedal: spent a couple minutes on this one. Still not sure I like how it turned out. But I am sure it will serve its intended purpose. I use a dead pedal all the time in my DD. I started with 1.75” x ¼” aluminum bar. It was part of the bag-o-loot of remnants I recently picked up from a local metal supplier. Their large remnant bins are a gold mine.

Final dimensions are 1.75” at the top, tapering down to 1” at the bottom. Length is 6.5”. Intention here is to blend in with the other pedals as best I can. After some elbow grease with a Scotch Brite pad and WD-40 for a brushed look, I coated it with clear ceramic for durability. The clear didn't go on very evenly. I’m finally realizing I need to settle on one brand of spray paint. Switching around means differences in nozzle pattern and flow rate, etc. Which varies my results. Thankfully, it’s deep in the FB, so not highly visible.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221897&d=1763763125


Fuse panel bracing: going back again to Edwardb’s playbook, I made up little 4” brackets to beef up the fuse panel. These definitely improved rigidity. I tapped the chassis tube for 10-32 for these brackets. This location seems to be well established. Like others, I don’t like it directly beneath the brake/clutch MCs, but otherwise seems like the place to install it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221891&d=1763762879


View from above.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221892&d=1763762879


View from below. Tapped the diagonal brace for 10-32s, and then 1/8" rivets to attach the bracing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221893&d=1763762879

Time to put away the metal tools and get serious about electrical. Lots to do there. I think at least four months worth on my last build.

[JimStone]

Keep this up and you'll be a Master Bracketer in no time!

I like your dead pedal. I made mine a little bigger, but maybe too big.

[burchfieldb]

Nice progress!

[Nigel Allen]

Keep this up and you'll be a Master Bracketer in no time!

I like your dead pedal. I made mine a little bigger, but maybe too big.

I reckon both you and Chris are turning out some masterful work at the moment. There are some real pearlers there.

Cheers,

Nige

[PNWTim]

Looks good Chris. For a non-retired guy you're chugging right along.

[460.465USMC]

Keep this up and you'll be a Master Bracketer in no time!

I like your dead pedal. I made mine a little bigger, but maybe too big.

Thanks, Jim! Who knew I would end up enjoying the bracket making so much. It's become one of my favorite aspects of the build process.


Nice progress!

Appreciate it, Brent!


I reckon both you and Chris are turning out some masterful work at the moment. There are some real pearlers there.

Cheers,

Nige

Hi Nigel. Great to hear from you! I trust all is well down in your neck of the woods. I'm having a blast on this build. It's a lot of fun trying my hand at some of the ideas I see here on the forum.


Looks good Chris. For a non-retired guy you're chugging right along.

Thanks, sir! I try to get out to the garage for a couple hours after work as often a I can. It really adds up over time.

[460.465USMC]

Merry Christmas!

Electrical is underway in earnest. This is one of my favorite parts of the build. As I awaited arrival of all the bits from Del City and other suppliers, I started the dash. So, have some good momentum on that as well.

Most will recognize the influence from Edwardb’s Coupe build on my electrical approach. It’s also pretty close to my MK4 build as well. Since the kit supplied #4 AWG wouldn’t reach my master cutoff location, I ordered #2 AWG from West Marine. Turns out I have a store right here in my town. Bonus. With all the bits in-hand, here’s how I set up my main power and Coyote power distribution:


Main power: #2 AWG from the battery to a master cutoff switch (Longacre 52-45760). Black #2 AWG to chassis ground, where the PDB and engine ground also collect under the ⅜”-24 bolt. A dab of dielectric grease there, as well as at most major power and ground connections. Ran into a bit of a surprise on the ⅜” lug Fusion connectors. These come prefilled with solder. Figured I could melt with my heat gun. Negative. Then tried my Weller table top torch. No dice. So, I had to step up to the big guns and pick up a Bernzomatic. I ordered the DuraCast 4000 BTU, but they sent me the DuraCast 8000. Bonus. A good tool to add to my repertoire, but I wasn’t planning on it.
PDB power: #4 AWG from the unswitched side of the master cutoff over to the 250A mega fuse, then #4 AWG on to the PDB. This provides constant power to the PCM.
Starter: #4 AWG from switched side of cutoff to the starter.
12VDC bus bar: #4 AWG from switched side of cutoff switch to a Blue Sea Systems bus bar mounted to the fire wall. It has four ¼”-20 studs, gathering all the chassis harness circuits (Ron Francis).
Alternator: #6 AWG from 12V bus bar to 150A ANL fuse for some extra protection, then on to the alternator.
Ground bus bar: mounted on the firewall. It also has four ¼”-20 studs, which I'll use to gather the chassis harness grounds, and grounding for the various accessory systems I’ll be adding like the Ididit high beam relay, Dakota Digital cruise control module, Wilwood electric parking brake, etc.


Coyote main harness: to accommodate better routing and to clean up unnecessary connectors/circuits, I unwrapped the main PCM harness. As has been reported by others, this is a commitment. It takes time. Lots of it. And patience. But, the end result is worth it to me.

Along with the circuits I eliminated as shown in the screenshot below, I also separated the #10 AWG ground wire (black), orange fan wire, and starter lead for optimal routing. Not shown in the table, but I also removed the HS Can (+/-) wires, and the Yellow “Key on 12V” wire.

Since I had to rewrap the plastic loom anyway, I used adhesive cloth tape. For electrical tape, I use Scotch 88, good up to 105 C.

In the red boxes below are the circuits I eliminated. They don't apply to my build.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223256&d=1766680158


Here you can see the #2 AWG main leads from the battery, as well as the ground connections under the 3/8"-24 bolt for the battery, PDB, and motor. I will extend the fan circuit (orange coiled) later on.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223253&d=1766679997


Main power connections continue along the chassis rail. Main Coyote harness coiled up and ready to go. I'll connector and terminate the #4 AWG ground, #4 AWG starter, and blue starter trigger wire after the drivetrain is installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223254&d=1766680049


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223255&d=1766680049


Top of the PS footbox is getting pretty crowded, and I don't even have the wiper motor installed!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223257&d=1766680255


This is the Longacre master cutoff. Mounted as high as I could on the PS panel just below the firewall.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223252&d=1766679997


The Blue Sea Systems 12V and Ground bus bars mounted to the firewall. The 150A ANL fuse for the alternator circuit is to the right. Ground chassis point (5/16"-24) for the bus bar is visible on the 2" chassis tube.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223251&d=1766679997

[460.465USMC]

Here is the Coyote harness with the O2 sensor circuits. One for the left and one for right side. This harness is modified per F5 instructions, in order to reach the left and right O2 sensors at the header collectors.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223250&d=1766679997

[460.465USMC]

Two topics today: (1) the dash extension from Snakebite Motorworks, and (2) I made a big mistake. More on the mistake in a minute.

The full dash extension from Snakebite fit quite nicely. This is the first panel I haven't made myself, but with good reason. There's a lot going on here with planes and angles. Big shout out to Snakebite for his design and making it available. Also, big thanks to Papa for his support/beta testing. I haven't quite finalized my plan yet, but figure this will be a good spot for the five-position toggle panel, and the Wilwood e-brake button. Underneath and hidden from view will be most/all of the electronic controls/accoutrements.

Here's the view from the front. Since the trans tunnel will be carpeted, I'm leaving a small gap at the bottom of the extension panel. This gap will be fine tuned once I mock-up the trans tunnel cover. I may order Snakebite's blank cover since I'm deleting the mechanical e-brake handle, not to mention centering the shifter hole.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223383&d=1767022016


I slotted the holes to fine tune the fitment. Moreso the upper/forward hole. Also visible is a simple bracket I made and secured with 8-32 screws. It's 1.5" wide, and there's another one on the left side of the extension as well. This really stiffens the center of the dash, as well as the extension panel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223382&d=1767022016


It was a bit tricky to locate the brackets and holes so everthing lined up. I slotted the holes to aid my precision impediment.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223381&d=1767022016


It doesn't get much more basic than this, but they make a big difference.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223385&d=1767022016


The Big Mistake

As I mentioned in my last update, I've been working the dash buildup in parallel with the main power, Coyote PDB, etc. The dash has two HVAC vents located at the extreme ends, left and right. I drilled those holes at least a month ago, but it wasn't until yesterday I noticed my big mistake. My hole locations didn't account for the cross tube the dash mounts to. Sheesh!! Yep, it's basically been right in front of my eyes, or right next to the snake bit kit, as they say. No correlation to Snakebite Motorworks. :p

Here's a view of the left HVAC vent hole with the cross tube plainly in sight. Ain't no way the HVAC vent is going to fit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223384&d=1767022016


View from the rear.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223386&d=1767022049


What to do? I really don't want to replace the dash ($$$$). Not to mention the hours I have into it so far. Nor do I want to trim that skinny cross tube, or alter the plastic vent housing. Thinking about it overnight, perhaps a 0.040 backing plate will work. A bezel of sorts. Basically right over the top of the existing hole, following the contour of the dash's edge. Attach it through the existing holes that connect the lower dash corners, and an additional screw or two on its opposite side. My dash (and dash extension) will be finished in powder coat (Charcoal Rock from Prismatic Powders), so I can't cover the original holes with vinyl or leather.

What do you guys think? Is this a dumb idea? I welcome your advice and/or suggestions.

[Sharris2]

Can you get smaller vents to fit and adjust the hole as you suggested? im not using the FF supplied vents; im installing 4 smaller ones then using 2" tubing instead of the larger supplied by FFR

[460.465USMC]

That's an interesting idea. What size vents? Can you share any more details?

[Sharris2]

These are the ones i got for my build
Motoforti Universal Dashboard Air Conditioning Outlet Vent Round Air Vent Ventilation Outlet for RV Bus, 1.81" Pipe Diameter, Plastic, Chrome Silver Tone, 2 Pcs
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0CR6HQ6B6?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title#:~:te xt=Ask%20something%20else-,Motoforti%20Universal%20Dashboard%20Air%20Conditi oning%20Outlet%20Vent%20Round%20Air%20Vent%20Venti lation%20Outlet%20for%20RV%20Bus%2C%201.81%22%20Pi pe%20Diameter%2C%20Plastic%2C%20Chrome%20Silver%20 Tone%2C%202%20Pcs,-Brand%3A%20Motoforti

[Papa t]

Why not trim the interference from the bracket and leave the a/c duct hole the same?

[PNWTim]

Chris, I would cut a round piece of .040 to fit in the hole and then a backing plate that you can blind or flush rivet to the backside of the dash. Then glue that round filler plate in and cut a new hole. I did a lot of this on my dash to get it the way I wanted it. It will work and you can use almost anything, 30 minute epoxy, JB Weld, panel bonding adhesive, whatever but that'll do it.

It's a bit of work but just use the hole saw that you cut the round hole to begin with and cut a "plug" so to speak (it'll be a little smaller), then flush rivet the backing plate on and then glue the plug in and then drill a new hole. With some filler and fairing work you'll never see it.

[460.465USMC]

Why not trim the interference from the bracket and leave the a/c duct hole the same?

Hello Papa T. Thanks for chiming in, but I don't think I follow. I don't have any issue trimming the aluminum as shown below. But, that leaves the more concerning interference from the cross tube, which I don't want to trim. Or, are you referring to something else?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223391&d=1767034256

[460.465USMC]

Chris, I would cut a round piece of .040 to fit in the hole and then a backing plate that you can blind or flush rivet to the backside of the dash. Then glue that round filler plate in and cut a new hole. I did a lot of this on my dash to get it the way I wanted it. It will work and you can use almost anything, 30 minute epoxy, JB Weld, panel bonding adhesive, whatever but that'll do it.

It's a bit of work but just use the hole saw that you cut the round hole to begin with and cut a "plug" so to speak (it'll be a little smaller), then flush rivet the backing plate on and then glue the plug in and then drill a new hole. With some filler and fairing work you'll never see it.

Thanks, Tim. I think I recall a picture or two from your thread of this solution. The most I've done in this area (on my MK4 dash) was to countersink flat head screws, apply JB Weld over it, and sand smooth. It held up just fine through the high temps of the PC process. And that was regular JB Weld. I imagine the high temp stuff you found would add a safety margin for the heat. I might even still have the original two inch plugs. Question, do flush mount rivets require a special rivet gun/fitting?

[Papa t]

No, missed the crossmember interference. The have done the exact solution that Tim has described with no problems on another build.

[PNWTim]

Chris - I bought solid or buck rivets with counter sunk heads and manually bucked (set them) using only hand tools. I didn't want to buy a pneumatic rivet gun to set 10 or 15 rivets. I think you could get away with just countersinking your rivet hole and using a regular blind rivet, grind it a bit and then fill as appropriate. There is no real shear or strength needed here so I wouldn't worry too much about diminishing the head thickness slightly to get it smooth.

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/rivets/rivet-type~solid/fastener-head-type~flush-mount/

I just reread your original post as I was finishing typing this and somehow missed you were powder coating your dash. That puts a whole new spin on things. Most adhesives won't stand up to the PC oven heat. Even the high temp JB weld I used shrunk a bit. You may want to go the solid rivet and aluminum brazing route. This may be the only way to get it smooth enough to pass the powder coat appearance test.

[JimStone]

Hello Papa T. Thanks for chiming in, but I don't think I follow. I don't have any issue trimming the aluminum as shown below. But, that leaves the more concerning interference from the cross tube, which I don't want to trim. Or, are you referring to something else?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223391&d=1767034256



I recently needed to fix a similar issue with th shifter hole in the trans cover panel being an inch too far forward.

What I did was have Send Cut Send make me a semicircle fill piece that is flush to the panel, then I backed it with a ring with the ID the same as hole I needed, epoxied in place where the new hole is to be. Then cut out the new semicircle. The flush piece is also epoxied. Is super strong. No fasteners needed. I used chat GPT to help me create the files for Send Cut Send (told me how to do it in Inkscape). You could also just cut the pieces yourself from stock, but need to be precise


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223415&d=1767063473

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222587&d=1765175874



Instead of epoxy, you could use the solid flush mount rivets Tim linked. Use the aluminum 3/32 ones and they easily squish down practically flat with a few whacks of the hammer, then epoxy and sand smooth. Used them all over my dash face,

[Barwickad]

Hi. Chris. One suggestion for the heater duct issue. Perhaps 3d print a coupler for the duct that necks down just enough to go under the cross tube. Then slip the duct on to the coupler on either side of the cross tube. I had a similar issue with one of the heater ducts on my Mk4.

P.S. If you don’t have access to a 3d printer, I know a guy who does.

[460.465USMC]

Thanks, everyone! Really appreciate you guys checking in...some great ideas here.

I hate to admit it, but my big mistake is even bigger than I first realized. Last night, to my disbelief I discovered the left and right holes for the turn signal LEDs are directly in the middle of the cross tube. :mad: I'm not given to foul language, but since no one else was in the garage....%&*! Unbelievable! If there's a silver lining here, at least those holes are only 7/16". I'm going to take a step back and ruminate on this one for a bit. Plenty of other things to work on in the meantime.

[460.465USMC]

Hi. Chris. One suggestion for the heater duct issue. Perhaps 3d print a coupler for the duct that necks down just enough to go under the cross tube. Then slip the duct on to the coupler on either side of the cross tube. I had a similar issue with one of the heater ducts on my Mk4.

P.S. If you don’t have access to a 3d printer, I know a guy who does.

Hey, Andy! Long time no talk. Has your Roadster been licensed and out in the wild? Would love to see a picture or two.

Unfortunately, I don't have access to a 3D printer. I've always admired what folks have done with those on their builds. Really cool stuff. I'm interested in this option, but not good at envisioning things in my mind. I would like to understand/see the solution you designed. I'll follow-up with a text to see if there's a good time to chat. Thanks for the suggestion!

[8secDuster]

Chris,
Vintage Air offers several different reducers for vents and hoses.

https://vintageair.com/builder-series/vent-louvers-registers-ducts-and-duct-hose/

[Namrups]

Chris, Don't feel bad..... I did the same thing on my coupe. Hanging my head, I will admit that I cut the cross member to clear the vent tubes. As far as structurally holding the dash in place there is no issue. What would happen in a crash is anyones guess. Given the small size of the tube I don't belive it is a structural support for the roll cage. (But I'm not a structural engineer either!)

Scott

[460.465USMC]

Thanks, Scott. I'm still licking my wounds, but moving forward. Despite my measure-thrice-cut-once approach, I still manage to booger up stuff. In this case, if I would have set the dash back in place for a quick sanity check before drilling, I would have caught it. A painful lesson, but a good reminder. If my build turn out half as good as yours, I will count it a big success.

[PNWTim]

Chris - I have been thinking about your "challenge" with the dash. If you are going to stick with powder coating, I would suggest finding a skilled tig welder in town and weld those plugs in. He/she could also fill the signal holes at the same time. If they take it slow they should be able to prevent warpage and with a little grinding and sanding your dash will be like new and you don't have to start over. This will also guarantee your powder coat will look perfect.

[Namrups]

Thanks, Scott. I'm still licking my wounds, but moving forward. Despite my measure-thrice-cut-once approach, I still manage to booger up stuff. In this case, if I would have set the dash back in place for a quick sanity check before drilling, I would have caught it. A painful lesson, but a good reminder. If my build turn out half as good as yours, I will count it a big success.

Thanks for the shout out Chris but believe me I can show you a lot of "if I could do over's". I've always said if I did another coupe I would "do it right this time"! Like everything else, the more you do the better you get. Thank god for the fore runners (EdwardB/Paul for example) who gave us a set of brains ahead of our builds. I can't imagine what my build would have looked like without them!

Scott

[460.465USMC]

Chris - I have been thinking about your "challenge" with the dash. If you are going to stick with powder coating, I would suggest finding a skilled tig welder in town and weld those plugs in. He/she could also fill the signal holes at the same time. If they take it slow they should be able to prevent warpage and with a little grinding and sanding your dash will be like new and you don't have to start over. This will also guarantee your powder coat will look perfect.

Thanks for the additional idea, Tim. I really appreciate your thoughts. I chatted with forum member Barwickad--a fellow PNW'er--about 3D printing a coupler for the ducts. He "knows a guy" who generously offered to work with me on a solution. I'm going to give that a try first. If that goes well, I'll likely JB Weld some slightly undersized plugs for the two 7/16" turn signal holes. Can't say often enough how helpful this forum is for a guy with two left thumbs. I'm grateful.

[Skuzzy]

Thanks for the additional idea, Tim. I really appreciate your thoughts. I chatted with forum member Barwickad--a fellow PNW'er--about 3D printing a coupler for the ducts. He "knows a guy" who generously offered to work with me on a solution. I'm going to give that a try first. If that goes well, I'll likely JB Weld some slightly undersized plugs for the two 7/16" turn signal holes. Can't say often enough how helpful this forum is for a guy with two left thumbs. I'm grateful.

I am happy to help with the 3D printing solution.

[Papa]

Chris,

I know you didn't want to make a mistake, but I wanted to thank you for making it and being humble enough to post about it before I had the chance to make the same mistake myself. :p I've now marked up my dash with a Sharpie to remind me of where not to cut/drill for things.

Dave

[460.465USMC]

I am happy to help with the 3D printing solution.

Wow! Thanks, sir! That's a generous offer, but I believe I'm in good hands. I'll post some details once we get to the solution.

[460.465USMC]

Chris,

I know you didn't want to make a mistake, but I wanted to thank you for making it and being humble enough to post about it before I had the chance to make the same mistake myself. :p I've now marked up my dash with a Sharpie to remind me of where not to cut/drill for things.

Dave

You're welcome. I'm a firm believer most can make some sort of contribution to the forum. I know what mine is. :p I find my learning curve sees an upward step function after a big WHOOPS!

[460.465USMC]

After I mocked up the extension panel, decided it was time to see if I could fit all of the electronics behind it. Good news: it all fits. Barely. The clearance at the top is 1 7/8", sloping down to 3/16" at the bottom (gap for carpet). So, it's not deep enough for a few of my controls I was planning to mount to it. Especially with all of the electronic control boxes I mounted there. Not a huge deal. I was able to find a spot for everything on the dash. But it's busy.

Electronics: Starting at the upper left.

Digital Guard Dog (PBS-I): keyless start. Standard relay directly beneath. More on that in a minute.
T-56 Reverse Lock-out
Idit headlight relay: toggles low/high beam and flash-to-pass
Dakota Digital Cruise (VCM-105)
Wilwood electric parking brake controller


Everything is mounted using 8-32 or 10-32 rivet nuts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223755&d=1768060306


Dash mock-up: next up was to find a place for all the controls on the dash. I had envisioned a tidy, uncluttered dash (a la 8SecDuster), but that's not where I ended up. All my fault of course. Guess I'm too attached to these add-ons that will enhance the driving experience.


Indicator lights left to right: Left turn (green), High Beam (blue), MIL (Red) [Malfunction Indicator Lamp], Right turn (green), and Cruise (“On”). Will be routed through the Speed Hut Zero/Dimmer control (missed that detail on my last build).
Clock: just gotta have one. Hard to see my phone while driving. As I mentioned before, this one has illuminated hands. A nice improvement over the one that came with my Roadster build.
Windshield wiper knob: this one is directly from Edward’s playbook. It’s a Cole-Hersee with washer control, variable delay, low speed, and high speed. I didn’t want it on the dash, but it was too deep to mount to the dash extension.
HVAC controls: used the included bracket (stainless) on the back side. Figured it can’t but help with dash rigidity. Plus, the mounting holes may come in useful for wire management behind the dash.
Start/Stop button: this is an upgrade option from DGD (green backlight). Unfortunately, I bought my control module so early, this button isn’t plug-n-play compatible. D’oh! After a number of back-and-forths with their tech support, I now have instructions to interface the two. Just need to have a standard relay (installed below the controller) to translate the logic state.
Wilwood E-Brake: momentary dial switch. Rotate left is Off. Right is On.
Headlight switch. laughed at myself, because I forgot how to remove the shaft/knob. It must be pulled out in order to install it. Then I remembered there is a release on the bottom of the switch housing. Easy peasy…until I forget again. Not sure what the set screw on the knob does?
Toggle panel: this idea really grew on me after I started my build. These are just plain cool IMHO. It requires a large opening cutout 7”x2”. Dremel with cutoff wheel was the best tool for the job (within my arsenal). When I put the labels on, it will be (left to right): (1) Horn (momentary toggle), (2) Fog lights, (3) Driving Lights [DRL] (on with ignition, but can shut off here when needed), (4) Camera (rear view mirror), and (5) Fuel Pump (emergency shut off). Some builders incorporate Start/Stop, a cool idea.
Battery Charging panel: Just discovered Blue Sea Systems are on the left side of my home state. Cool. Good quality stuff. The round 12V port will primarily be used for battery charging, tied directly to the 12V bus bar on the firewall (always hot). This panel also has dual USB ports. I can also turn off these ports via the included rocker switch to avoid parasitic battery draw. Handy.
Cruise Control: the Dakota Digital HND-2 cruise button panel is mounted to the dash extension panel (not shown). The quality is less than optimal. Speaking with them, it’s made by Roster (as are their turn stalk controllers). But they’re working on designing their own (no ETA). The HND-2 gives virtually no feedback (no click) when pushing the buttons. Hopefully, it will work okay.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223753&d=1768060269


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223754&d=1768060294

Remaining dash items include: holes for all the small Speedhut buttons (along the bottom), the DGD emergency bypass start-up button. And, of course relocating the two HVAC vent holes and filling in the two 7/16" indicator holes. Then off to powder coat. A dash designer I'm not, but I think it will function for me.

Oh, I also installed the clutch switch and F5 supplied stop bracket. Should have done this before installing the MC and running all the MC hoses right over the top of it. But it's in there now.

[460.465USMC]

Anyone know what this 5-way harness is used for? I'm not seeing it in the manual, and I don't recall this harness with my MK4 build. It's in Box 4 under the misc. electrical parts section, and labeled as 5-WAY 48" M/F CONNECTOR (60619). None of the harness connectors match. No results searching for 5-Way in the electrical manual.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223947&d=1768511048

[PNWTim]

Those are sitting on my bench with the lonely pile of other misfit toys. Those strike me as trailer wiring harnesses and I sort of assumed they were for the tail lights even though our rear harness is already there. Considering I have run all my harnesses to each corner I'm not sure they actually have a use. I wish I could shed more light but I'm as mystified as you.

[Sharris2]

I belive the harness is to use on the front of the coupe harness to provide a way to disconnect and allow you to remove the front clip of the car

[460.465USMC]

Agreed, they do remind me of a trailer wiring harness. Though I don't think I'll be pulling a trailer. :p I'll drop a line to F5 tech, and see if they confirm their purpose is for nose removal as Sharris2 suggests.

[Sharris2]

Look at pg 564, 565 of the build manual. You will see them there.

Scott

[PNWTim]

Pretty good eye there. I guess I don't feel so bad missing one typed sentence in a 600+ page manual.

[460.465USMC]

Look at pg 564, 565 of the build manual. You will see them there.

Scott

Nice find, Scott! Only problem is in my electronic version of the manual (Rev 4Z) page 564 discusses rear splash guards, and 565 is about carpet. What is the section header in your manual? If I can get that, I'll be able to find it. Thanks in advance!

[Sharris2]

There's a newer manual, May 2025 5a online

[460.465USMC]

Thanks for the nudge, Scott. I just downloaded Rev 5B, Dec. 2025.

[460.465USMC]

Well, I think I'm done back-stepping. At least for now. There was a valiant effort to 3D print a solution for the HVAC vent holes I misplaced, but I eventually waved the white flag of surrender. A huge thanks to forum member Barwickad for his time and effort in design/modeling a 3D print option.

In the end, I made a couple cover plates. Actually, I'm calling them escutcheons, because that has a more sophisticated ring to it.

Rear view of right side with escutcheon covering upper portion of the misplaced hole.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224005&d=1768589261


View of the left side with escutcheon in place. As recommended by JimStone, I ordered some 3/32" countersink rivets and installed two per side. Thankfully, my rivet gun has a 3/32" nose piece. Applied a little JB Weld between the layers as well. Interestingly, I had already decided to put the gauge panel on the outside of the dash. That should blend the left side escutcheon even more. Especially after everything is powder coated. My build is not at risk of becoming a show car, so I think these will blend in just fine for my purposes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224006&d=1768589300


Then it was on to filling in the two misplaced LED indicator holes (7/16"). Made a couple 0.08" plugs from scrap aluminum. I undersized them in order to leave plenty of room for JB Weld around the perimeter.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224001&d=1768589261


Front view of a plug installed with JB Weld.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224003&d=1768589261


The rear view shows the ring of JB Weld around the perimeter of the plug. Should be pretty solid, me thinks.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224002&d=1768589261


Not related, but I doubled my gauge panel using the kit supplied Auto Meter panel as the backer. So, it's 0.08" thick. Removes a bit of the flex. Just had to open up the gauge holes to match the larger vintage gauges. Applied some JB Weld between them, so no chance of rattling. You can see the finished plugs centered over the Tach and Speedo openings.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224004&d=1768589261


Not that I "needed" a new tool, but armed with a Christmas gift card, I added a few shekels and picked up this Ridgid oscillating spindle sander. It also has a belt sander attachment. Used it on the escutcheons. Wow. So nice. It's immediately becoming my go-to for various sanding needs.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224000&d=1768587534

[PNWTim]

Glad to see you are putting this slight misstep behind you. I think it will probably work out fine but please know my personal experience is the JB weld will shrink in the PC oven. I filled some holes that some bonehead put in the wrong spot and did more or less exactly what you did. Where the JB was nice and smooth and perfectly flat prior to PCing, afterwards it was perfectly smooth and flat but slightly recessed.

I bought a used oscillating spindle sander with cabinet from a guy off FB Marketplace about a year ago. I love it and I too used it to shape the inside of some of my round holes to fit perfectly. It's pretty handy for both inside and outside curves. My neighbor has yours with the belt sander fixture and he loves it.

[460.465USMC]

Thanks for passing along your JB Weld experience with powder coating. I used the original formula, supposedly good up to 550 deg. per the packaging. I used the same on my MK4 dash to hide eight 8 countersink screws. I thought it weathered the oven pretty well. I'm using a textured powder coat, which helps a little to hide small flaws like texture on a sheetrock wall. If I'm wrong, I may need to find a Plan B depending upon how noticeable it is. I tell myself these little flaws of mine make it a "custom" build. :p

[JimStone]

"Escutcheon"

I had to look that word up. Still can't pronounce it.

Nice work on the repairs. Should look just fine with the textured powder coat

[PNWTim]

Sounds good - I think it'll look perfect.

Jim - be careful. He's throwing around fancy French words to lull us into thinking we should send him free car parts!

[460.465USMC]

For a guy with a limited vocabulary, I somehow managed to pick up escutcheon from Crutchfield as a young teenager. Swapping in a sweet stereo system in my clunker meant I needed an escutcheon to pretty-up the surround around the receiver. A necessity after removing the AM radio, having hacked up the dash in the process. Guess I didn't make much progress in the following four decades! Still hacking up dashes. Yikes!

And, yes, I accept free car parts. Whatever it takes.

[460.465USMC]

Why make a job harder than necessary, right? So, before sealing up the FBs, I installed carpet on the sides and front. Definitely easier with the outside panel removable. I should have done the same on the PS FB, but guess I was got ahead of myself months ago when I closed it. It's certainly possible to carpet both FBs after they're closed up. Just not as much fun.

I also wanted to seal up the FBs before I installed carpet. I mentioned before I'm a little surprised at the number and sizes of the gaps in the FBs. What to do to seal them? For the two largest (PS), I made a couple covers to minimize the gap, then sealed with GE black silicone.

Here are the two PS FB gaps I felt were just too large for silicone. This one is in the upper right hand corner:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224671&d=1769303995


Then, directly below it was this one. I attached 0.040 aluminum covers with JB Weld. Then insulated them with Thermo Tec. Then silicone.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224670&d=1769303995


I also sealed up all of the smaller gaps with black silicone. No more daylight. I'll address the large gaps on the sides around the latch u-bolts and all that area later on.

To my surprise, I found a couple irregularly shaped carpet pieces I think were supposed to go on the outside FB panels. But I just couldn't figure out how they were supposed to fit. They weren't even close. I’ve found F5 does an excellent job pre-cutting the carpet pieces, with only minor adjustments are usually required. Anyway, I made templates, and then cut out these pieces from the extra carpet I have on-hand. The DS inside piece is especially fun to install. Trying to keep glue off of all those obstacles up there is challenging.

Carpet install: from the lessons learned on my last build, here's my approach. Other ways to do it, but this works for me.

Roberts 6700 indoor/outdoor glue applied to the back of the carpet.
1/8” v-notch trowel. A small plastic one works good for corners and the smaller carpet pieces.
Give it 15 minutes after laying down the glue, especially for vertical pieces. When the glue starts to look a little dull, it’s ready to stick well. Yet can still be wiggled into place for best fit. Not instant adhesion. I like that. Then I back butter the next piece while waiting.
I don't black out under the seams with paint, tape, etc. I’ve found the seams come together nicely, and are pretty forgiving. As long as I test fit each piece beforehand, this hasn’t been an issue. No shiny foil peaking at me.


Here's a view of the driver's side. I installed a vinyl heel pad next to the accelerator pedal to protect the carpet from wear. Used duckbill carpet napping shears to trim the carpet to a very low pile for better glue adhesion. Trimming also allows the pad to nestle down into the carpet. Like it’s supposed to be there. Nice. Also visible is the fuel inertia switch and OBDII port (similar to Edwardb). Accessible, but out of the way.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224674&d=1769303995


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224673&d=1769303995


Then on to the PS FB. As noted above, I made my own outside panel piece, but the other four pieces fit perfectly. Minimal trimming required. I remembered to cut out the holes for the HVAC bulkhead connectors. Phew.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224672&d=1769303995


Since most of the above is prepping for front harness install, I figured I better place my horn as well. I chose the Wolo Bad Boy horn this time around. Located it inside the forward left “triangle” area of the engine bay. That seems to be unoccupied space. I think it’s better sounding than the 1990 Crown Vic horns that come in the kit. “Not that there’s anything wrong with that” (any Seinfeld show fans out there?).

Of course, I just had to test it. Here's a four second video:
https://youtube.com/shorts/J5PCR8zRJrw?feature=share.

[Papa]

Nice progress, Chris.

[PNWTim]

Chris - I really appreciate your updates. For a first time builder such as myself, your pragmatic approach provides a lot of insight to all aspects of the build. So thank you for that. I personally am sticking with the Crown Vic horns so I can channel the wanna be CHP in me by their blare.

[460.465USMC]

Nice progress, Chris.

Thanks, Dave. Bit by bit. Piece by piece... For some reason, carpet in the FBs really feels like progress even though I've only scratched the surface on electrical. I don't know about you, but I might be having more fun my second time around. Trying to enjoy the process as much as possible.


Chris - I really appreciate your updates. For a first time builder such as myself, your pragmatic approach provides a lot of insight to all aspects of the build. So thank you for that. I personally am sticking with the Crown Vic horns so I can channel the wanna be CHP in me by their blare.

I have to admit the kit supplied horns are loud! You can be the Erik Estrada of the OSP.

[460.465USMC]

I'm chipping away at the front and rear RF harnesses. Pretty minimal changes to the front harness, except for trimming to length, and adding wires for DRLs and fog lights.

A bit more going on with the rear harness: add rear camera cable, wires for courtesy light(s) for rear hatch, wires for backup lights (2), reverse lockout wiring for T-56, and incorporate the Wilwood electric parking brake harness. My plan is to have one large split loom carrying all of the above along the upper right of the transmission tunnel (opposite the fuel and brake lines). With breakouts for each function at the appropriate locations. Will see how it works out.

For the Wilwood harness, as has been widely reported, it's way too long. So, I'm shortening at the head end, leaving the rear portion and individual legs to the EPBs factory wrapped. I like this idea better than cutting into the harness at both ends.

The rear harness will enter the left side of the trans tunnel in the upper left corner, just below the 1.5" square chassis tube, directly beneath the rear brake line.

The rear portion of the Wilwood loom is only four wires, positive and negative pairs to the left and right EPBs. The loom is 1/2" OD, and will poke through the forward trans cover near the 1.5" chassis tube. Of course, I don't have a 1/2" grommet on hand. The special trips to Ace for this kind of stuff really add up in terms of time, and adds another stopping point to progress for the day.

After scratching my head, I looked through my hardware bins and found my bag of push-in panel plugs (McMaster: 9600K521). I used one on my last build to route the MC rubber hoses through the FB panel (great idea from JohnK). I sent a couple to another builder who did the same. These are blank plugs (no hole). I still have the HF hollow punch set I used, so grabbed the 1/2" hollow punch and...voila! A homemade grommet.

No, these panel plugs aren't universal grommets. But, it's really nice (and rare!) when I can use bits/pieces on-hand to create a solid solution. Saving yet another special trip to the fastener aisle, or ordering a bag of 10 from McMaster (but only use one!) is even better. The downside? A 1.25" hole is required. But these are good quality, and will work great in my application.

Here's the 1/2" hollow punch, my homemade grommet, and a solid plug for comparison.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225039&d=1770047298

Speaking of 1.25" holes in panels, am I the last builder to try Rotabroach [hole] cutters? I recently made a command decision to shelf my hole saws (except for wood). Why? They oversize the holes, and leave very rough edges. Good for wood. Not good for metal panels IMHO.

A couple years back, I read a comment about these Rotabroach cutters by forum builder Mike Bray. He said something to the effect every garage should have a set. But, like any quality tool, they ain’t cheap, so I put them on the back burner. Since then, I’ve tried adjustable circle cutters (cheap; relatively clean holes; awkward to use), and bi-metal hole saws as mentioned above.

These cutters by Blair Equipment are truly a game changer. (No, I don't own their stock. :)) This is not the first tool I would recommend to a new builder who needs basic tools. But it's a good one to have on the radar after the basics are covered. These are worth every penny. They're sold in various arrangements, from singles to kits. The only down side is the largest size I found is 1.5", so can't be used for gauges.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225037&d=1770047147


Here's a short video (1:50):


https://youtu.be/zLZf8LQuGvU?si=UlZYqBcyKC2-vMHA

[Papa]

Nice work, Chris. I'm thinking of trying to run the mirror stuff inside the roll cage and mounting the rear camera on the roof. Another option is to mount it in the rear spoiler.

Dave

[PNWTim]

I guess I am the other guy that has never heard of these. Looks pretty useful, and like any specialty tool, a little spendy but worth it. I have drilled every hole in my car with either a drill bit, a step bit, or a hole saw, but there are definitely cleaner ways to do it. For the larger holes you can use hole slugs but they get stratospherically expensive above 2" or so.

[JimStone]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225037&d=1770047147




Dang it, I wish I had known about these things years ago!

I also really like the blank grommet idea. I was struggling to figure out how to make grommets for some oddly shaped hoses and harnesses, so those would work nicely

Thanks Chris

[460.465USMC]

Nice work, Chris. I'm thinking of trying to run the mirror stuff inside the roll cage and mounting the rear camera on the roof. Another option is to mount it in the rear spoiler.

Dave

Thanks, Dave. I traded PMs with JimStone on the camera location, and have now decided to mount mine below the spoiler like Lewma. It pretty much disappears on his build. I will run the cable through the rollbar, and exit down low on the PS. Then over to the rear harness to send it to the back. A roof mount would be interesting...don't think I've seen that approach yet.



I guess I am the other guy that has never heard of these. Looks pretty useful, and like any specialty tool, a little spendy but worth it. I have drilled every hole in my car with either a drill bit, a step bit, or a hole saw, but there are definitely cleaner ways to do it. For the larger holes you can use hole slugs but they get stratospherically expensive above 2" or so.

I'll have to research hole slugs, as I'm not familiar. Only had to drill one gauge size opening on this dash for the clock (thankfully!). But last time drilled all of them. Oof!


Dang it, I wish I had known about these things years ago!

I also really like the blank grommet idea. I was struggling to figure out how to make grommets for some oddly shaped hoses and harnesses, so those would work nicely

Thanks Chris

Yeah, those Rotabroach cutters will cut up to 1/2" thick metal! Pretty impressive.

I was tongue-in-cheek labelling the plugs as a "universal grommet" solution. But pretty handy option for one-off scenarios we encounter in these builds.

[rhk118]

Chris, fantastic build so far! I think we are in very similar places with our builds. I’ve picked up a few things!

[460.465USMC]

Thanks, Hank. I'm neck deep in electrical....will be here for a while. One of my favorite parts of the build.

[460.465USMC]

Chipping away at electrical. I'm including more options on this build. It's a bit overwhelming at the moment. Doing my best to break it down into manageable chunks. Nothing major to report, but finished a couple items.

Auto Vox (XG-T9) rear view mirror/camera: quite some time back I picked up a rear view camera/mirror. I like JimStone’s mounting, so following his lead. The camera will power on with ignition. But I will be able to shut it off manually via the dash mounted toggle panel. It's supposed to function as a standard mirror as well, so wanted the flexibility to manually shut it off. We’ll see which is best while driving.

One potential issue I found with the roll bar position is it puts it about 4” closer to my head than the rear view in my daily driver. I have to turn my head quite a ways to see it. Won’t know for sure just how far until my seats are installed. I’m open to attaching it to the windshield to decrease the view angle. Plenty of slack in the cable to accommodate.

I found a couple spacing washers left over from my Wilwood brake kit that fit perfectly over the post. Also in the picture is the part of the mirror bracket that's removed in order to slide the rollbar bracket mount on. If I end up moving it forward to the windshield, that part will be reinstalled.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225645&d=1771096345


One issue I found with the setup is the mirror could spin on the post. So, I tapped a 6-32 hole for a flat head screw (set screw). Spin eliminated.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225639&d=1771096207


Courtesy lights: Running the camera cable inside the rollbar is so much fun, figured I better run the overhead courtesy light wires at the same time. It was a bear to squeeze the camera cable plus courtesy light wires through the 7/16” holes I drilled. Larger holes would have saved me A LOT of time and frustration.

I attached the lights (one above the driver, one above the passenger) to the 1" diagonal braces. I'll have a total of four courtesy lights; the other two will be in the dash corners. I made a couple brackets from ⅛” thick steel bar stock, and sprayed them with POR-15.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225642&d=1771096207


Overhead view of the camera/mirror and courtesy lights. Each bracket has a latching switch, so they can be controlled individually (always hot). If a light (or switch) fails, I can disconnect the push-on terminals without too much fuss to replace.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225643&d=1771096207


Camera cable and courtesy light wires exit the rollbar on the right side, below the dash. I used a #10 awg wire as a fish tape inside the rollbar, pulling a string through the top and exiting at the bottom. Then tape the camera and courtesy wires to the string and pull them through (separately, one at a time).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225640&d=1771096207


Driver's side courtesy light, looking up. The black latching switch is hard to see, but it's mounted just to the left of the light. The lights are 3/4" white LEDs from Watson Streetworks. I tested them last night, and they lit up the cockpit well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225644&d=1771096247


Plenty of work to do yet...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225641&d=1771096207

[460.465USMC]

Fixed another Whoops! My front left brake line was interfering with the forward splash panel. Not excited about replacing that brake line, so notched the panel instead. The silver lining is it shouldn't be very visible. Two steps forward, one step back.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225646&d=1771102231

[460.465USMC]

YouTube must be paying attention, because it suggested this: Rob Wants a Fast Car (https://youtu.be/IDNdEQCzEqc?si=DQi1CVTrufvgl3LD). Every build needs a theme song, right? Other than a few tweaks, it fits me. Minus the yacht. Minus the R model. Oh, and minus hiring a pro to finish it...haven't done that yet either.

I'm just shy of two years into my build, and First Start won't be anytime soon. Yep, I'm adopting it as my theme song...it's gonna be a four year build [like Rob's].

In the meantime, I'll keep chipping away at electrical.

[JTG]

I must confess that video has been played more than once in my household as well...

Our goal was 2-1/2 years so I could drive my son to his HS graduation in the Coupe. At our current pace that is looking dubious. Your 4 year timeline is probably more realistic!

[460.465USMC]

I must confess that video has been played more than once in my household as well...

Our goal was 2-1/2 years so I could drive my son to his HS graduation in the Coupe. At our current pace that is looking dubious. Your 4 year timeline is probably more realistic!

I know many knock these out in that time frame and less. I don't know how they do it, unless they eliminate sleep. It would be neat if I could drive our youngest (daughter) to school on a special occasion before she graduates. She's a sophomore. I need to pick up the pace a bit. ;)

[Blitzboy54]

As someone that builds a little too fast I will say nothing wrong with taking your time. Doing great Chris

[burchfieldb]

I'm in the same boat. I've got one going to college in the fall and a sophomore in high school. Maybe I can get it completed before the second one is done with high school.

[PNWTim]

I'm in the same boat. I've got one going to college in the fall and a sophomore in high school. Maybe I can get it completed before the second one is done with high school.

Yeah, but Brent, you started when they were in grade school...:cool:

[burchfieldb]

Yeah, but Brent, you started when they were in grade school...:cool:

Ah, one was a freshman at the time. Now I get pulled away to help with his car. I am shooting for go cart this year. :rolleyes:

[460.465USMC]

Electrical work continues, although it doesn’t feel like it. I’m working my way through the fixed items circuits, routing them into the cockpit, e.g. wiper motor, HVAC, Wilwood EPBs, etc.

Wiper motor: so, I thought a bit about where to place the wiper motor. Most builders I've seen attach them to the firewall above the right FB. But that area is quite busy already. I have the Specialty Wiper WWK-2 system, and they confirmed no issue if I put it on the left side. I added 1/4" length pieces from a small hose between the mounting plate and the firewall to limit vibration transfer from the motor. Those also provided clearance from the bulb seal along the top of the firewall. Here you can see I assembled the connector and routed the harness through the firewall.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226770&d=1773532257


HVAC - drain hose: next up was to install the drain hose. Pretty straight forward here. I simply followed F5's instructions. I'm using spring clamps for these hose connections.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226773&d=1773532490


HVAC - heater and AC hose connections: I previously mocked up the evaporator and siliconed all the gaps (per forum wisdom). So, it was time to finalize the hose connections inside the FB. Based upon positive forum reviews (and F5's recommend) I picked up the Mastercool 71550 AC hose crimper. These are a first for me, but the tool makes it pretty easy. Hopefully, they'll be leak free.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226774&d=1773532490


A slight bend in the lower (#6) AC hose is noticeable in the picture above. That's on purpose. Unfortunately, my placement of the bulkhead holes interfered with the nose side latch mount. So, the slight bend in the fitting gives the needed clearance. I noticed F5 has a couple sets of holes in the instruction manual. So, I guess they had a little trial-and-error before settling on the sweet spot. That makes me feel a little better.

For the in-board heater hose connections inside the FB, I used T-Bolt clamps. I try to stay away from worm drive clamps in my build. I wasn't too excited about the thought of removing Gates thermoplastic clamps in a very tight space like this if future maintenance is required. So, I opted for the more maintenance friendly clamp.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226778&d=1773532664


HVAC - drier: I liked Edwardb's placement, so followed his lead. The harness connection routes underneath the 1.5" chassis tubes--visible below--than along the outside of the FB. There are a number of obstacles in the area along the route. Hopefully, I've anticipated all of them.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226775&d=1773532490


The harness then bends inward, sneaks behind the Coyote PDB and then through the firewall. This provides plenty of harness inside the cockpit to reach the evaporator connections, as well as the controls, etc.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226777&d=1773532554


Sending harness: Like I said above, all this doesn't feel like I'm making any progress with electrical, but it all directly impacts where/how I will tie it all together. I punched the sending harness through the firewall next to the Coyote harness. I’m not using the RF sending harness, because my sending harness consists of (1) the Speedhut sensor cables (oil pressure and H2O temp). (2) Plus, the #6 AWG alternator feed via the 12V busbar. Then through a 150A fuse. (3) Lastly, the tach wire routes through here as well. For now, the harness is just stubbed through the firewall and coiled up. I’ll terminate and dress these in after the drivetrain is installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226771&d=1773532257

[460.465USMC]

J&L oil separator: not electrical related and not needed for a while, but this is on my list and satisfied the free shipping minimum at Summit for a recent order. It's a plug-and-play installation. “Reduces blow-by and carbon buildup. Maximizes performance and efficiency”. At least that's the advertising. I put one on my last build as well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226801&d=1773593783


A few weeks back my Braum ORUE seats arrived. I haven't done much with them yet other than to send a panicked PM to JimStone worried they're too big and won't fit. He graciously replied back, and talked me off the ledge. They come with a tilt back and sliders, but not sure how much tilt I'll be able to use, or the sliders for that matter. I'm looking forward to installing these.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226839&d=1773609487

[Papa]

Great progress, Chris! I like what you did with the wiper motor. Way yo think outside the box and really takes advantage of the flexibility the kit provides.

Dave

[PNWTim]

Looking good Chris. I know the program of "wiring a little bit every day". It's a little bit along the same lines as eating an elephant.

[460.465USMC]

Great progress, Chris! I like what you did with the wiper motor. Way yo think outside the box and really takes advantage of the flexibility the kit provides.

Dave

Thanks, Dave. It was looking like I would have to relocate some of those items on top of the right FB to make room for the motor and clearance for the cable tubing. Wasn't excited about that prospect. I think this will work.

[460.465USMC]

Looking good Chris. I know the program of "wiring a little bit every day". It's a little bit along the same lines as eating an elephant.

Well said, sir. Even though I enjoy the wiring part of the build, by the time I'm done I'll be looking forward to something, anything else but wiring for a while.

[Namrups]

Not sure if I'm looking at the picture right but it looks like your wiper moter assembly is facing the wrong way.

[460.465USMC]

Hi Scott. With it mounted above the driver's side footbox I'll admit it looks different. It's rotated 180 deg. from where it would be if mounted above the PS footbox. From the angle of the picture it's not visible, but the cable assembly exits toward the center of the windshield. The initial orientation of the drive wheel inside the assembly will be different as well, but they assured me it will work. I hope they're right.

Are you getting close to driving season over there? There's snow in my yard over here, but supposed to be close to 70 deg. in a few days. That's March in the Pacific Northwest.

[Namrups]

Hi Scott. With it mounted above the driver's side footbox I'll admit it looks different. It's rotated 180 deg. from where it would be if mounted above the PS footbox. From the angle of the picture it's not visible, but the cable assembly exits toward the center of the windshield. The initial orientation of the drive wheel inside the assembly will be different as well, but they assured me it will work. I hope they're right.

Are you getting close to driving season over there? There's snow in my yard over here, but supposed to be close to 70 deg. in a few days. That's March in the Pacific Northwest.

I had my first drive of the season last week when the temp hit the upper 60's! Drove to get bloodwork done. It has snowed again since then so she waits for drive 2!

[460.465USMC]

Electrical work continues. Making some progress. Just wrapped up the front harness install. Nothing much off script other than lots of soldering as I relocated and extended wires to match the route I chose. I also ran a couple extra wires: (1) daytime running lights, and (2) fog lights. I wrapped the RF split loom with cloth adhesive, as the split loom is a bit unsightly IMHO.

This is where the front harness connectors seemed to naturally fit. This location is also quite agreeable with the connectors coming from the RF fuse panel. Added a cushioned clamp to keep it in place. Not the greatest picture, but the yellow arrow points to the front harness connectors, which stop just shy of the forward edge of the 1.5" chassis cross tube.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227239&d=1774449076


The harness exits the front of the FB and travels along the outer edge of the 1.5" diagonal. I opted to route the PS harness across to the right side through the 1.5" tube. From this "Y" the left side simply travels down the 1" nose support tube. The clecos will remain as long as possible, as I'm not in a hurry to seal up the outside panel of the driver's side footbox.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227237&d=1774449076


The horn wires split out just in front of the "Y" (yellow arrow) and sneak underneath to the Bad Boy horn. I'm adding grounds at all four corners--preemptive strike against grounding Gremlins! The fan ground wire (#10) is seen here (lower arrow). It will terminate in a Weatherpak where it will join the +12V (from the Coyote PDB) at the lower radiator hose exit. The rest of the left side harness grounds will connect here as well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227238&d=1774449076


Horn wires connect to the horn above the steering shaft.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227240&d=1774449076


Here you can see where the positive lead for the fan exits the main battery lead bundle on the lower chassis tube. It routes to the same radiator tunnel opening to meet up with the ground wire noted above.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227241&d=1774449150


Lastly, the right side of the front harness exits the chassis tube and follows the nose supports. Also visible is the chassis ground where all of the right side ground connections with tie together.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227236&d=1774449076


On to the rear harness. Really looking forward to getting the gas tank reinstalled, and the hatch floor panels in place permanently.

[PNWTim]

Great progress Chris! It's a good feeling to finally work out routing of major harnesses. I originally was going to go through the cross tube like you did but for some reason changed my mind but I can't remember why. Either way, keep up the good work.

[460.465USMC]

Thanks, Tim. Agreed, I'm actually starting to feel some momentum. Feels good.

I thought about going across the top of the chassis tube instead of inside. Hopefully, I didn't miss something I should have accounted for by using this route. I've seen it done both ways on builds. One obvious downside is future access to that part of the harness, but hopefully that won't ever be required.

[460.465USMC]

The rear harness is the last of the major harnesses I need to install. There are a number of circuit additions. I mocked it up in order to break out these circuits to where they need to land (ordered front to rear):


Reverse light switch: this one is toward the front of the T-56, on the right side. My transmission kit included the two-position Weatherpak pigtail which mates to the switch output inside the trans. This circuit runs forward to a relay (yet to be placed), whose output will run rearward through the harness via a wire pair I added. All the way back to the reverse lights, one on each side near the taillights.
Vehicle Speed Sensor: I’m using the two-position VSS connector included in the RF harness (green, gray wires) to feed a reverse lockout module.
Reverse lockout: this circuit is fed from the above mentioned lockout module. It travels from there into the harness, and eventually breaks out at the left rear of the T-56. There it connects to a solenoid mounted on the trans. The pigtail for this connector was also included in my T-56 kit.
Third brake light: spliced into the left brake light wire (purple), and broke it out in the middle, where the third brake light will be mounted to the spoiler.


I'm not exactly blazing new trails here by running the harness through the forward side panel of the trans tunnel. It enters just below the brake line.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227694&d=1775154306


From there is makes the curve rearward, along the right side of the tunnel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227695&d=1775154306


Continues rearward tucked in tightly in the upper right. The blue tape pieces mark where the breakouts need to go. Since I didn't install the drivetrain for mock-up, I measured from the motor mount stud to each connector on the T-56. Then, transferred that measurement to the tunnel and marked with tape.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227697&d=1775154963


The final bend, upward and to the rear. It attaches to the underside of the hatch floor tubes with more cushion clamps. The smaller loom is the Wilwood EPB harness.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227696&d=1775154335


Top view of rear harness. Wilwood EPB routing: from the final Y in the harness I took the circuitous route to the e-brake caliper motors. For whatever reason at the time, I didn’t want to trim and resplice.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227692&d=1775154264


From the pictures I took before initially removing the body, there appears to be plenty of room to secure the end of the harness legs in this area. Like the front, I added chassis grounds on the left and right sides, where all the rear circuits will tie their grounds together.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227693&d=1775154264


For an innocent looking harness, there was quite a bit of rework because of the accoutrements I added. It feels good to have it all in place. I’m looking forward to testing each one individually once these circuits are ready to be energized.

Side note: to help me select the correct grip range for each rivet, I measured the wall thickness of the various tube sizes.


1.5” tube: wall is 0.095” thick
1.0” tube: wall is 0.075” thick
0.75” tube: wall is 0.040” thick


I’m excited to permanently mount my DIY trunk box, hatch floor, and ThermoTec insulation.

Happy Building!

[PNWTim]

Looking good Chris. I am kind of regretting not running a reverse light circuit to the rear but I didn't plan on reverse lights because I thought it came with them. I am curious which lights you are using? I can still piggy back a wire back there if I had to and my Bowler reverse lockout module is designed to activate the circuit if needed.

[460.465USMC]

Hi Tim. I bought these six LED round lights from Watson Streetworks: https://watsons-streetworks.com/product/6-led-interior-and-marker-lights/?attribute_color=White+LED%E2%80%99s%2FClear+Lens. They are just over 1.75" in diameter. I can't speak to how effective they'll be, but I like their products.

[460.465USMC]

It's hard to believe the two year anniversary of my kit delivery date is this Wednesday! Just for grins, I compared my Coupe build timeline to my MK4 timeline. At the 22 month mark on the MK4, I had just completed First Go-Kart. This time around, I’m a ways away from dropping in the drivetrain.

Besides taking a couple months off from the build here and there, the main reasons my Coupe progress differs so dramatically is (1) all of the custom panels and brackets I’ve made on this build. And, (2) there are quite a few additions to the electrical portion of the build (e.g. rear camera, cruise control, back-up lights, etc.). I guess it all adds up over time.

Not to worry because my main goal is to enjoy the build process. So, if I want to take on the challenge of making my own trunk box (I did!) I’m going to do it. (Modeled after Edwardb’s, of course). There’s a lot of fun, and a feeling of accomplishment I get from going off script. And, occasional frustration. That’s what it’s all about for me. Okay, enough rambling. Back to minor updates on my progress.

Rear camera/mirror (Auto Vox T9): I changed my mind again –for the 3rd time– and decided I will mount the rear facing camera to the hatch glass, just behind/below the rollbar. I routed the rear camera cable along the top of the roll bar. Routing it inside the tubes is trick–-did that for the other part of this harness. But after a chat with PNWTim, he pointed out the cable on top of the rollbar won’t be visible with the body on unless you’re really looking for it. Summary: out of sight? Check. More serviceable? Check. Considerable time saved. Double check. In hindsight, I would do the same for the cable to the mirror. The camera comes with a looooong piece of cable, and no good way to trim it. So, I ran out the excess inside the loom. I used cushion clamps anchored by 10-32 button heads.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228341&d=1776629593


Wilwood EPBs: now that all the harnesses are routed into the cockpit from the fixed objects they power, I made some of my first connections in the cockpit. The Wilwood EPB harness was up first. I trimmed 4-5 feet off the 12 AWG power wires that feed the calipers. Then trimmed 6+ feet off the smaller 20 AWG wires that connect to the dash mounted control switch. All splices are soldered. More on that in a minute.

Now to the fun part: this gave me a really good excuse to test my main wiring from the battery, through the master cutoff switch, and to the +12V busbar where the EPB’s main power lead connects. This is the first time I energized the main power system. A test lead connection to ignition power, but everything else was real-world. The EPBs worked as advertised. No smoke released. Phew! The indicator light stays on with ignition power when the EPBs are engaged. Removed ignition power, and the EPBs stayed engaged. Just like they should when I’m parked and walk away. Good.

I was on a roll, so I completed the final IRS CV axle nut torque (98 lb ft + 45 deg). The brake rotors didn’t budge whatsoever with the EPBs engaged. Nice! (Tried this months ago with my daughter’s foot on the brake pedal, but the rotors still spun). Put a witness mark on the axle nut, and put the wheels back on.

Papa recently gave a nice demo video of his Wilwood EPBs, so I won't duplicate here. With the EPB circuits completed, I felt confident to silicone and rivet my forward transmission tunnel panel. Not much to look at, but the rats nest in this area is about to become even more rats-nestier as I add in the harnesses for cruise, lockout solenoid, etc.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228342&d=1776629593


Hatch floor: With the EPBs installed and tested, there was no good reason not to button up the hatch floor. So, I put the final torque to the -6AN connections at the Trickflow fuel filter and at the pump. Installed the forward hatch panel, followed by the larger rear panel and trunk box hinges. Then, applied Thermotec, but left the outer edges unattached so I can slide in the hatch slides. Speaking of those, my final powder coat batch (hopefully!) should be ready for pickup any day.

Took this shot just before laying down the Thermotec. You can see the missing rivets along the left and right edges.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228344&d=1776629834


Power Steering cooler: it wasn’t in my mind to install one, but ultimately decided the benefits are there for the extra heat protection IF I autocross. Not to mention it gives me a good excuse to upgrade the hoses. In both builds, I’ve used Teflon lined SS braided hoses and connectors from Breeze for my fuel lines. Will do the same here for my power steering hoses. I’m always happy with Breeze parts. Mark is a pleasure to work with. Good quality.

I really liked where Edwardb mounted his cooler (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-5-000-Mile-Report&p=350347&viewfull=1#post350347). But, I don't have clearance to do the same. So, this is the location I found. Not as clean, but it should work. I'll install a 120 deg. connector for the connection back to the rack, and a 45 deg. on the other outlet to the pump. The rest will be 90 deg, and all are -6AN.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228343&d=1776629696


Electrical misc.: like others I spend a lot of time trimming down circuits/harnesses that are way too long for my application. And, in some cases, extending them. For those circuits where I’m not using connectors (e.g. Weatherpaks), I solder wire-to-wire. Those connections are solid, but perhaps a little bulky, and not the most professional looking, especially the large gauge wires. So, I’m going to try these non-insulated butt connectors. The non-insulated butt splice is no different than the uninsulated wire-to-wire soldered sections. Both require shrink tube. I think this may even improve the reliability, and give a more professional looking end result. Because, you know how many eyes will see these connections inside the wire looms, or tucked under the chassis. Know anyone who’s three inches tall?


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228349&d=1776637890


Mini ATM fuse pigtails: For those connections which need a fused input (constant or switched power), I’m going to try these Mini ATM pigtails. Available from Del City in 12 AWG (up to 30A), or 16 AWG (up to 20A). I ordered a few of each. Also, with the additional electrical circuits I’ve noted, I think a dedicated ignition busbar is unavoidable. A place is needed to gather switched power. Not to mention it will also provide an easier way to isolate a circuit if future troubleshooting is needed.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228351&d=1776638182

[Papa]

Nice work, Chris. You'll like the uninsulated butt connectors. I used them quite a bit this build.

Dave

[460.465USMC]

Thanks for the confirmation, Dave. I was wondering if other builders used these. Not sure why it took me SO MANY connections before giving these a try. I was thinking to apply a little solder after the crimp. Do you as well, or is that completely unnecessary?

[Papa]

Thanks for the confirmation, Dave. I was wondering if other builders used these. Not sure why it took me SO MANY connections for me to give these a try. I was thinking to apply a little solder after the crimp. Do you as well, or is that completely unnecessary?

No solder for me, just crimp and shrink.

[ToeKneeNose]

The uninsulated butt connectors are great for connecting single wires or even a few smaller wires together in a smaller space. If you want to step up another level, look into open barrel connectors. They serve a slightly different purpose and require a little more hand coordination, but it is a single crimp. You can add several different sized wires and change the direction each wire is facing. It's really good to run a longer large single conductor and then branch off to smaller conductors in the harness or near the end of the run.

https://www.prowireusa.com/p-3226-open-barrel-splice-loose-piece.html
228387

[460.465USMC]

Interesting. In my limited wire-crimping travels over the years I don't recall running across these splices. I can see the slightly different function they provide. It looks like they require a special crimper. Which crimper have you found effective?

[PNWTim]

Thanks for the confirmation, Dave. I was wondering if other builders used these. Not sure why it took me SO MANY connections before giving these a try. I was thinking to apply a little solder after the crimp. Do you as well, or is that completely unnecessary?

I just ordered another hundred butt connectors. Shockingly, I used up the first hundred since I ordered them in November of 2024. I believe my main harness took about 40 of them so I guess I shouldn't be surprised. I don't think you mentioned it but one key to using these (other than not forgetting to slide the heatshrink on prior to the second crimp) is to use a good crimping tool. I have two of these (not sure why) and although I have other crimpers that will work, these are my go to:

https://shop.channellock.com/products/909?variant=40608287785041&country=US&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&srsltid=AfmBOorCBTv5OnUjn8VFNAP9LHeGaNyia4d7xIZ3kJ gNgye_uHszm3VYnhk

I enjoy their simplicty for both insulated and non-insulated connectors and they provide great leverage. You can crimp up to about 10 gauge fairly easily.

I also never use solder except in very limited circumstances. I think it's pretty well defined by OEM's that a good crimp and connector is superior, doesn't crack or corrode over time and allows replaceability.

[ToeKneeNose]

Interesting. In my limited wire-crimping travels over the years I don't recall running across these splices. I can see the slightly different function they provide. It looks like they require a special crimper. Which crimper have you found effective?

228390
https://www.prowireusa.com/p-3900-metri-pack-280-delphi-56-series-unsealed-crimp-tool.html

I don't remember the exact model I have but It's probably just like the one listed on that site. They do a pretty good job of having the associated crimper needed.

I bought a lot of tools for my last project so I get to reuse them when I start wiring my coupe.

[460.465USMC]

I just ordered another hundred butt connectors. Shockingly, I used up the first hundred since I ordered them in November of 2024. I believe my main harness took about 40 of them so I guess I shouldn't be surprised. I don't think you mentioned it but one key to using these (other than not forgetting to slide the heatshrink on prior to the second crimp) is to use a good crimping tool. I have two of these (not sure why) and although I have other crimpers that will work, these are my go to:

https://shop.channellock.com/products/909?variant=40608287785041&country=US¤cy=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&srsltid=AfmBOorCBTv5OnUjn8VFNAP9LHeGaNyia4d7xIZ3kJ gNgye_uHszm3VYnhk

I enjoy their simplicty for both insulated and non-insulated connectors and they provide great leverage. You can crimp up to about 10 gauge fairly easily.

I also never use solder except in very limited circumstances. I think it's pretty well defined by OEM's that a good crimp and connector is superior, doesn't crack or corrode over time and allows replaceability.

Thanks for the confirmation, Tim. This feels like a Homer Simpson moment (D'Oh!). Really appreciate the feedback.

Crimper: I have the Klein version of that crimper. I bought it in the late 90s. I was a field technician in the two-way radio business after the Marines (avionics). One solid hand tool. It has a 10-12 AWG slot and a second slot for 14-22 AWG. Plenty of reliable crimps over the years. It doesn't owe me anything.

This is really good news. Not only will my splices be less bulky, but I'll save a ton of time by crimping v. soldering. Glad I found these right before my deep dive into the cockpit spaghetti factory.

[Skuzzy]

When using crimped connectors, on stranded copper wire, I usually, tin the copper first. This holds the wire together better and makes for a more solid crimp.

Added: When I have to do a lot of crimps, I light up the solder pot and use the MAPP torch to heat the copper and dip it in the solder pot. I can tin 20 to 30 wires in a few minutes that way.

[460.465USMC]

Appreciate the tips! I'm getting exciting to do some splicing.

[jemorgan3]

I have not run a single wire on the coupe yet, but in other projects I’ve used the but connectors that have the solder and flux inside the sleeve, and the sleeve is shrink wrap.. any opinions on using this technique vs a physical crimp?

[460.465USMC]

I used something like that from Molex for the submerged splices on my in-tank fuel pump on this build. As I recall, they were pricey. Not bad if you only have a few to do. But, depending upon how often you detour outside the "standard" F5 build (i.e. are you adding electrical circuits?), and how much you rework (or don't) the harnesses for your application, I think the cost and time to install would be a significant factor. I don't have data comparing the two from a reliability standpoint, but perhaps a more knowledgeable builder can weigh-in.