Chris' Coupe Build #566 - Rear Camera. EPBs. Hatch floor.

[460.465USMC]

Index (my memory jogger for what I did and why :p)


Kit Build Sheet (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Radiator-and-Panels-installed&p=552232&viewfull=1#post552232)
Garage Prep (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Radiator-and-Panels-installed&p=552365&viewfull=1#post552365)
Wilwood Superlite v. Dynapro (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Radiator-and-Panels-installed&p=552632&viewfull=1#post552632)
Delivery and Inventory (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Radiator-and-Panels-installed&p=553969&viewfull=1#post553969)
IFS and Steering Rack (with Breeze offset bushings) (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Radiator-and-Panels-installed&p=554869&viewfull=1#post554869)
Front Brakes (spindle clearance) and IRS Started (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Radiator-and-Panels-installed&p=555893&viewfull=1#post555893)
IRS Complete (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Radiator-and-Panels-installed&p=556818&viewfull=1#post556818)
Roller! Wheels and Tires (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Radiator-and-Panels-installed&p=557167&viewfull=1#post557167)
Power Steering "Safety Loop" (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Radiator-and-Panels-installed&p=557508&viewfull=1#post557508)
Coyote Gen 4X in the Garage! (header bolt pattern and oil pickup changes) (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Radiator-and-Panels-installed&p=563611&viewfull=1#post563611)
DIY SS Tubing Straightener Fail (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Radiator-and-Panels-installed&p=565076&viewfull=1#post565076)
Fuel Filter, Tank, Pump, and Hangar. Differential Vent. (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Radiator-and-Panels-installed&p=565659&viewfull=1#post565659)
Wilwood Pedals, Engine Bay Panels (Custom Panels). Pressure Regulator. (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Radiator-and-Panels-installed&p=567691&viewfull=1#post567691)
Rear Hatch Floor and Trunk Box (Part 1) (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Radiator-and-Panels-installed&p=571219&viewfull=1#post571219)
Trunk Box (Part 2); Cockpit Panels (scroll down). (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Radiator-and-Panels-installed&p=572180&viewfull=1#post572180)
Radiator/Panels, Radiator, and Breeze Shroud (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Radiator-and-Panels-installed&p=572754&viewfull=1#post572754)
Brake and Clutch Reservoirs Install (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Back-at-it-Brake-Lines-Installed&p=573670&viewfull=1#post573670)
Coyote Gen 4 Oil Pan, Pickup, PS, and Clock (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Back-at-it-Brake-Lines-Installed&p=575539&viewfull=1#post575539)
Ni-Copp Brake Lines (Scroll) (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Back-at-it-Brake-Lines-Installed&p=582996&viewfull=1#post582996)
Flexible Fuel Lines (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-HVAC-Initial-Fitment-and-Misc&p=583534&viewfull=1#post583534)
Coyote DBW Mod for Russ Thompson Pedal Pad (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-HVAC-Initial-Fitment-and-Misc&p=584545&viewfull=1#post584545)
HVAC Evaporator, Compressor, and Control Valve (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-HVAC-Initial-Fitment-and-Misc&p=585365&viewfull=1#post585365)
NRG Quick Release and AGM Battery (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-How-to-install-under-door-panels&p=587184&viewfull=1#post587184)
Final Panels Install - Part 1 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-How-to-install-under-door-panels&p=588468&viewfull=1#post588468)
Final Panels Install - Part 2 (heat/sound insulation) (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Panel-Progress-Sound-Heat-Insulation&p=591016&viewfull=1#post591016)
Bleeding the brakes and rear hatch panel progress (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Transmission-Install-Part-1&p=592082&viewfull=1#post592082)
Transmission Install - Part 1 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Transmission-Install-Part-1&p=593057&viewfull=1#post593057)
Indexing the Bellhousing (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Transmission-Install-Bellhousing-Indexed!&p=593058&viewfull=1#post593058)
Transmission Install - Part 2 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Transmission-Install-Part-2&p=594269&viewfull=1#post594269)
Moroso Coolant Reservoir - Mounting System (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Mounting-system-for-Moroso-tank&p=595206&viewfull=1#post595206)
PCM Location. Deal Pedal. RF Fuse Panel. (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Dash-Extension-And-a-Big-Mistake!&p=596734&viewfull=1#post596734)
Main Power. Master Cutoff. Coyote PCM Harness Dieting. (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Dash-Extension-And-a-Big-Mistake!&p=598990&viewfull=1#post598990)
Dash Extension (and a Big Mistake!) (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Dash-Extension-And-a-Big-Mistake!&p=599173&viewfull=1#post599173)
Dash Mock-up (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Escutcheons-and-Plugs&p=599993&viewfull=1#post599993)
FB Carpet and Wolo Bad Boy Horn (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Hole-Plugs-(the-universal-grommet-)-Rotabroach&p=601257&viewfull=1#post601257)
Rearview Camera/Mirror and Overhead Courtesy Lights (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Rear-Camera-and-Overhead-Courtesy-Lights&p=602843&viewfull=1#post602843)
Wiper Motor. Evaporator and Heater Valve. Sending Harness. (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Front-Harness-and-Fan-Circuit&p=604881&viewfull=1#post604881)
Front Harness and Fan Circuit (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Front-Harness-and-Fan-Circuit&p=605611&viewfull=1#post605611)
Rear Harness with extras (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Rear-Camera-EPBs-Hatch-floor&p=606298&viewfull=1#post606298)
Rear Camera. EPBs tested. Hatch floor. (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Rear-Camera-EPBs-Hatch-floor&p=607620&viewfull=1#post607620)

[460.465USMC]

What's better than building a F5 car? Building a second F5, of course. Wahoo! I can't believe I get to build again! I really enjoyed building the Roadster. It was challenging for me, yet very satisfying. Learning was a huge part of the enjoyment. The F5 Forum here was invaluable.

My eye was on the Coupe as a first build. But after an honest assessment of my skillset (beginner), the MK4 seemed like it would be a better match. And the lower kit price would leave a couple more large Gs in my pocket. So, Roadster became my choice for Build One.

To kickstart the Coupe funding and make this project possible, I said goodbye to my 2019 Camaro SS. Yes, a tear was shed. No Chevy's in Chris' garage? What the heck? What's happening to this crusty old bowtie heart? It was a necessary evil to enable my growing F5 car building addiction. :) The silver lining is my "new" garage does not have room for it anyway. More about that later.

Besides the obvious differences between the Type 65 Coupe and MK4 Roadster, I will be attempting a number of new-to-me items with my Complete kit build:


Coyote Gen 3 (don't have it yet, so will see what's available later on when I'm ready for it)
T-56: planning to mate it to the Coyote myself (another first); reverse lockout feature, and backup lights
Hydraulic throwout bearing: possibly Tilton
Brakes: Wilwood SuperLite front brakes. 13" Dynapro Wilwood rears. Both are slotted, but not drilled. Gordon Levy Racing.
Electronic Parking Brake: Wilwood
IRS with 3.55 ratio
Power steering: KRC from F5
Gauges: Speed Hut GPS gauges from F5
Gas-n side exhaust: Touring model - brushed stainless
SS fuel and brake lines will attempt my own flares
HVAC: supplied by F5
Windshield wipers: specialty Power Windows
Side windows
Rear camera: displayed in rear view mirror
High back seats. TBD: considering Corbeau, but I also like rhk118's selection from Intatrim
Wheels/tires: staggered 18" SVE wheels from LMR; Front: 275/35. Rear: 315/30. (My Roadster has 17 inch wheels).
Side mirrors: Brock Racing Equipment
Digital Guard Dawg ignition with push button start
Drop trunk storage: will attempt DIY
Deleted seats, side exhaust, and front brakes


Purpose of the Coupe is mostly a performance cruiser, with some Autocross.

Stewart called me today with an April 15 pickup date. It should traverse the country, arriving at my place about a week later. Interestingly, my completion date was supposed to be 3/31/24. I checked with F5 yesterday, and the chassis and body have not been built. However, I was assured they would be ready in time for Stewart to pick up. So, no nursery picture yet. But, I think the F5 boys will come through with one once it's up in the rack and ready to go.

Oh, boy! This is getting real. Even with one build under my belt, this still feels like a huge, challenging project. I have much to learn. No doubt much of the knowledge I gain will come through this forum. Thanks in advance!

[JimStone]

Wow congratulations! Let the fun begin!

My coupe completion date is 4/27, so right behind you!

[Jim Frahm]

I’m looking forward to seeing your new kit! I’ll soon be driving over in the Roadster. :cool:

[460.465USMC]

Wow congratulations! Let the fun begin!

My coupe completion date is 4/27, so right behind you!

Wahoo! Exciting times, Jim. Congrats! I look forward to reading about your build.

[460.465USMC]

I’m looking forward to seeing your new kit! I’ll soon be driving over in the Roadster. :cool:

Looking forward to seeing your Roadster on the road, Jim! Better yet, looking forward to getting our Roadsters out on the road together.

My plan is to put the Coupe on the lift when it's delivered. Are you doing anything on or around 4/22/24? :p

[460.465USMC]

As I mentioned in my last Roadster post, I moved last Fall. Walking away from a dialed in garage with room to spare to a "new", unfinished garage about half the size was not exactly on my radar. But, my better half is much happier at our new place. Happy wife, happy life. The new garage was an uninsulated metal, post-type building (i.e. "pole barn"). Very common where I live. These are a good option to build a cost effective, sizeable building for vehicles, tractors, etc. Anyway, it's what came with the house. But I wanted it to be more functional with interior walls and a heat source.

So, I spent the last 4+ months framing, insulating, paneling, and painting. It took some time as a one-man crew. I also installed a couple six foot ceiling fans to push the heat off the peak during the winter. In the summer, I'll reverse the blade direction for a cooling breeze. The silver lining is I added a heat pump, which means cooling in the summer! Something my "dialed in" garage did not have.

Finishing a garage full of tools and whatnot is not exactly the smartest move I've ever made. But, I was burned out on moving, and didn't want to do the storage-space-shuffle. It seemed like 25% of every hour was spent moving tools/whatnot out of the way so I had room to work. Move it over there. Move it back. Move it elsewhere. Move it back. Uff Da! (Don't try this at home!).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197612&d=1712087918


Here's a view in progress. Hours were clocked on the scaffolding. I opted for OSB instead of sheet rock. The seams are visible after painting, but I prefer a solid surface that better lends itself to hanging tools, etc.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197613&d=1712087918


Same view finished. I figure it's about time to hang a little F5 bling, so a steel F5 sign is on the way with my delivery. I'll hang it where the blue arrow is pointing. The 3'x8' mobile workbench in the foreground is something I made a couple Christmas vacations ago. I didn't want to part with it, so it made the move as well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197688&d=1712242494


As I mentioned above, I installed a couple of ceiling fans. Helps move the warm air off the peak during the winter, and reverse to provide cooling air flow in the summer.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197615&d=1712087964


Couldn't leave the four-post behind, so hired a flat bed tow truck to move it. The heavy duty casters made this a cinch.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197694&d=1712243408


It sure feels good to have a functioning garage again. I plan to put the Coupe on the lift from Day One. (The Civic will shuffle outside whenever I'm actively working on the build).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197689&d=1712242655


Now that the functional part of the nursery is mostly dialed in, I'm transitioning to a couple fun, build related tasks. I'm going to try my hand at stainless fuel and brake lines. Without a good source for straight tubing in my area, I will need to straighten the coiled 3/8" and 3/16" SS tubing I bought from Summit. So, I'm building my own tubing straightener based on a design I found on good ol' YouTube. It feels good to get my hands on a build related task. After that I'm going to tackle safety wiring my Wilwoods.

[JimStone]

Nice work! I just renovated my garage too getting ready for kit arrival

[Rsnake]

Garage is looking great

[460.465USMC]

Garage is looking great

Thanks for stopping by, Greg. It was a lot of work. Glad to be on this side of it.

Keep up the good work on your YouTube channel! I'm enjoying the autocross videos.

[Rsnake]

Thanks for watching the videos. The Nevada open road challenge is coming up and we shall see how the type 65 does at 165 mph.

[460.465USMC]

As I mentioned, the stainless tubing I'll be using for fuel and brake lines is coiled. Initially, I hit the easy button and bought a couple handheld tubing straighteners (3/8" and 3/16") from Eastwood. But after seeing a few home-built straighteners, I decided to try my hand at making one. It looked fun to build and saving some coin is not a bad thing. So, I returned the Eastwood units, and settled on a DIY straightener I found on YouTube (there are many!).

I think I spent <$40 for all the parts needed. Buying a short stick of 3/4" aluminum bar stock from a local metal supplier helped keep the cost down.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197924&d=1712506838


For me, a drill press is a necessity for this level of precision. Thankful my Dad gave me his a few years ago. It took a minute to tap the 8 (count them) 3/4" deep holes. Here you can see the wheels installed, and the holes to mount to the vise jaws. Original jaw on bottom for reference.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197926&d=1712506838


Here it is altogether and ready to go in the vise. These wheels are specifically for 3/8" diameter tubing, but I'm hoping I can also use them to straighten the 3/16" brake lines as well. The clamping force of the vise is obviously adjustable, and it only takes a couple minutes to swap out the vice jaws for the straightening jig. It's too early to straighten my lines, but looking forward to giving this jig a real-world test in a few months. It sure looks promising in the video by the guy who designed it:


https://youtu.be/8BkXDwFj3PA?si=ByVQvu_WeXygiZD9.

Wilwood Dynapro v. Superlite Rotors
It's been about 3.5 years since I safety-wired the Wilwoods in my Roadster. A refresher video was in order. One video had a good tip on estimating wire length for each stud pair: measure between studs and multiple by 5 (2.25" X 5=11.25").
Worked perfectly. Thankfully, I remembered to set my torque wrench to 155 inch-pounds. Phew! The process came back to me after the first few were done. I don't know that my quality improved over last time, but I did notice I was faster. Overall, I enjoyed the process, and it feels like I've started the build.

I used the same Harbor Freight safety pliers, and patted myself on the back after finishing the first rotor/hat pair without bloodshed. Three sets of studs later my fingers felt wet. Dang! Safety-wire strikes again. First blood. Those wire ends are sharp.

Here's a picture to show it happened. This is one of the rear rotors.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197962&d=1712587734


On my Roadster build I ordered Wilwoods from F5. They sell the Dynapro, drilled and slotted. This time I bought from Levy Racing. I went with Superlite six piston on the front (13"), and Dynapro four piston on the rear (13"). The Superlites are definitely beefier: 1.25" thick v. Dynapro 13/16". No difference in the machined surface area on the rotor, but an increase of brake pad surface area by ~28% (3.9" v. 5.4").

See the difference between the Dynapro (left) and Superlite (right)?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197961&d=1712587734


I'm sure the Dynapro would have been just fine for my use at all four corners, but Levy's pricing made it a simple decision. And, it's something different I wanted to try on this build.

Two weeks from today until delivery. :D

[Blitzboy54]

Whoa!! Chris, I just happened by the coupe threads and saw this. HOLY COW man!!! You haven't even painted the roadster yet. I love it and I am more than a little jealous.

Congrats and I will be following along.

[460.465USMC]

Hi Jesse. Great to hear from you! Hope that awesome Roadster of yours is providing plenty of miles and smiles this Spring. I’ve had mine out a few times as weather allows. Loving it!

Yeah, kind of strange for me to start a new build when Build One is still wearing its birthday suit (1,500 miles so far). All I can say is I really enjoy the build process. Getting lost in the garage does me a lot of good mentally and emotionally. I’m thankful to get this opportunity.

[buttsjim]

Here it is altogether and ready to go in the vise. These wheels are specifically for 3/8" diameter tubing, but I'm hoping I can also use them to straighten the 3/16" brake lines as well. The clamping force of the vise is obviously adjustable, and it only takes a couple minutes to swap out the vice jaws for the straightening jig. It's too early to straighten my lines, but looking forward to giving this jig a real-world test in a few months.

Congratulations on your Coupe build! I made that exact same tubing straightener. I used it for my fuel, clutch and brake lines, and those same pullies worked equally well for all three. It's probably not as likely with the stainless steel lines, but I learned the hard and expensive way that you need to be careful not to over-tighten your vise with the larger diameter lines--I smushed my first set of fuel lines a tiny bit, so that the fittings wouldn't seal.

Have fun with your build--I'm sure I'll be having lots of fun following along!

Jim B

[460.465USMC]

Thanks, Jim. Getting pretty excited as delivery day inches closer.

Tubing straightener: Great minds think alike. :p Great to get some additional real-world feedback. I have high hopes I can get it to work for both sizes. I appreciate your tip on overtightening, and welcome any future tips you send my way. School is always in session for me.

[Nigel Allen]

Hi Chris,

Really enjoyed following along on your Mk4 build. Will be doing the same with your new build. Wishing you the very best of garage time

Cheers, Nige

[460.465USMC]

Hello, Nigel. Hope all is well with you down under. I’ve appreciated your tips and suggestions along the way. Always solid. Good to know you’ll pop-in on this build. The more eyes keeping me from boobie-trapping myself the better! Your input is very welcome. Cheers!

[460.465USMC]

This is probably a picture only the builder/owner will appreciate. The F5 boys were kind enough to send over nursery pics. They also confirmed Stewart picked up my complete kit yesterday, so its cross country trek is underway. I'm pumped!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198333&d=1713368543

[buttsjim]

I'm excited for you and really looking forward to following your build!

[460.465USMC]

I ordered my Coupe kit ten months ago, so seeing Eric from Stewart Transport roll up 30 minutes early Monday morning was a bit surreal. I have to say it was as exciting and maybe even more fun than my Roadster delivery 3.5 years ago. It was good to meet Coupe number 566.

Eric was very helpful and friendly. He did a fantastic job throughout the entire unload process. My goal was to lift the Coupe off the cart and onto my four post lift. Since I have bridge jacks (AKA rolling jacks), rolling the cart up onto the lift was not an option. So, it came down to old fashioned muscle and grunt. This is where Eric really shined. We used a couple 2"x6" boards on edge (a la rhk118), one under the front, and one under the rear.

The back half of the Coupe is quite a bit heavier than the front, as others have noted. Heavier than I expected. Between Eric's help and expertise, and the additional muscle of a couple of my sons (i.e. strong, young backs) and brother-in-law, we managed to set it on the bridge jacks. Phew! So good to see it in the garage and on the lift.

I have the nose sitting on end against a wall in the garage, but I'm not sure where I'm going to put the body and nose long-term. My ceiling doesn't lend itself very well to the suspension option. Will noodle on that some more. Ideas are welcome.

After a brief 97 hours of inventory, it's done. Well, everything except the carpet--not going to bother with that. Otherwise, every nut, bolt, butt connector, and 0.25" female spade connector were counted. Maybe it didn't quite take me 97 hours, but it sure seemed like it. I'm more than ready to turn a wrench at this point!

Yee haw! #566 is in the air and ready to land on the cart.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198629&d=1714100366


That's Eric on the left. He had the first cart load of boxes off the truck and headed toward the garage in a blink.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198628&d=1714100366


Here you can see most of the boxes ready for inventory.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198627&d=1714100366


If you could see my smile looking at this view...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198625&d=1714100366


The Roadster has a stable mate. They're even color coordinated.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198626&d=1714100366


As I inventoried, I set aside the untreated mounts, brackets, etc. for powder coating. Most of the items in this view are part of the door frame and hinge setup.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198631&d=1714100551


Box #2 for powder coating.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198630&d=1714100551


Some observations:

I love the body lines even moreso in-person. Though I saw several Coupes at the F5 open house a couple years ago (including Edwarb's excellent build), I was more Roadster focused at that time and didn't linger too long looking over the Coupes.
Ingress/Egress: yep, it will be a challenge. This is much more obvious in-person than it looks in the pictures.
GPS vintage gauge set: didn't realize they are different than the Roadster. Tach/Speedo gauges are smaller, but the others are larger. And, no clock. Will be considering adding a clock.
Over all, the new inventory process went well. Although, it didn't go any faster as I had hoped. But that's likely just an artifact of a small mind's limited processing power.
Very small POL: just the headliner and heater control valve and controller. Thanks, F5!
Coupe fastener pack in Box 1: I asked F5 and they sent me an itemized list, as I couldn't find one. I'm more than okay having the fasteners in one box. And, the individually labeled bags are helpful. I found several quantity mismatches between the emailed list and the labels on the bags. I'll ask F5 to supply the difference.
Will be replacing black oxide fasteners with SS. Only a few were not replaced on my Roadster, and they've rusted.
Set aside uncoated brackets and mounts in a separate box that I will soon drop off for powder coating--see picture above.
I tend to reorganize parts (e.g. electrical) that obviously go together into the same box. I find this helps locate them more easily when needed. And, it condenses the number of boxes taking up shelf space.
I also write the major components on the outside of each box. I find this gives me a quick visual when I need to locate stuff during the build. However, I know I'll still need to consult the inventory pages (now in a three ring binder) now and then.


Let the build commence in earnest. This should keep me busy for a few years, anyway. Wow! What did I get myself into?

Happy building!

[JimStone]

Wow, congratulations! Looks exciting!

[buttsjim]

Congratulations Chris! I'm really looking forward to following along! I bet you'll be surprised by how much you learned from your Roadster that will make the Coupe build be even more fun!
Jim B

[edwardb]

Congratulations! Let the Coupe fun begin. Suggestion -- spend a little time with all those parts before sending them off to powder coat. Clean up weld splatter, sharp edges, the laser cut "nibs" that are on many of them, etc. You won't regret it. I'd also be curious if Factory Five fixed the angle on those hood hinges. You may want to hold them back until you trial fit them with the hood.

[Jeff Kleiner]

All right Chris! I'm going to enjoy watching this come together :cool:

Jeff

[460.465USMC]

Wow, congratulations! Looks exciting!

Thanks, Jim. It's still a bit surreal, but that's slowly giving way to the fun and learning I'm anticipating with this build.


Congratulations Chris! I'm really looking forward to following along! I bet you'll be surprised by how much you learned from your Roadster that will make the Coupe build be even more fun!
Jim B

Appreciate it, Jim. I've been asked a few times, "Why another kit car?" I think you nailed it. I'm really looking forward to applying what I learned on the first build. And, enjoy the new-to-me aspects of this build. Hopefully, I won't repeat too many mistakes.


Congratulations! Let the Coupe fun begin. Suggestion -- spend a little time with all those parts before sending them off to powder coat. Clean up weld splatter, sharp edges, the laser cut "nibs" that are on many of them, etc. You won't regret it. I'd also be curious if Factory Five fixed the angle on those hood hinges. You may want to hold them back until you trial fit them with the hood.

Fun indeed, Paul! Can't wait to get started. Thanks for the tip on the parts prep. I started removing the nibs on the smaller brackets/mounts the laser leaves behind with a hand file. Will go over the rest of the parts before dropping off for PC.


All right Chris! I'm going to enjoy watching this come together :cool:

Jeff

Thanks, Jeff! Always appreciate your seasoned eye keeping a watch on my build. Regarding the Coupe-->Roadster color coordination, don't think I haven't thought many times about you being the one to fix that on the Roadster. Who knows, I may be up for a road trip when I'm ready someday, if you have an opening. :)

[Ashaw65]

Finish one project and jump onto another. Way to go!

[Barwickad]

Congratulations on getting your coupe. Looking forward to following the build.

[460.465USMC]

I'm still pretty tickled to have received all of the suspension pieces with my delivery. Nice to be able to plug away at the front and rear suspension and keep the march toward roller stage moving forward.

A few issues to resolve:

PS rack: swapped out the pre-installed bushings with the Breeze aluminum offset centering bushings. Installed the PS rack and centered it within the frame. (I will center the steering wheel and equalize lock-to-lock later).
* The Breeze bushings are nice pieces, but I think they are probably a better fit for the Roadster application. Here's why: it appears the PS rack must be mounted in the top holes (race car height) in order to keep the Breeze adjustment slots accessible. Thankfully, this doesn't actually put the rack at the full upper height, because the offset bushing holes are not centered--see picture below. So, after all is said and done the rack is probably slightly higher than the lower street use holes. After trading emails with Mark at Breeze, I may set ride height about 1/4" lower. If I had to do it over, for the Coupe application I would probably save the money. The silver lining is it was easy to center the rack in the frame.
The 1/2"-20 grade 8 bolts to attach the UCA to the frame stopped a couple threads short of being flush with the nut (I normally like a 2+ threads sticking past the nut). And, they were not mechanical lock nuts as advertised. I emailed F5 last week, but still no word back. So, Ace to the rescue for grade 8, 1/2"-13 x 2" bolts. Already had extra 13 pitch nylon locknuts on-hand.
Upper ball joint castle nut threads too far down the shaft for reasonable cotter pin engagement. Added spacers to fix--see picture below.


What went well:

Front UCAs: pushed right into position with a spacer on the rear bushing. Primed the bushings with a bit of grease (4-5 pumps on my grease gun). I like to see it come through the flutes in the bushing before assembly. On a tip I saw in cv2065's build thread, I picked up the Lock N Lube attachment for my grease gun. As he said, no more swinging from the grease gun trying to get it to release. Boy, can I relate to that! Not expensive ($30), and worth every penny IMHO.
KONI single adjustable shocks: before assembly I made sure they were set for lowest (softest) setting as my starting point. This is the same setting I'm running on my Roadster. This can be checked/adjusted later, but easier now. Link to Koni's website with instructions and video: https://www.koni-na.com/en-US/NorthAmerica/Technology/Adjustment-Guides/
UCA upper ball joints: used my 18" Harbor Freight adjustable wrench to install. (I'll also use it on the IRS UCA nuts later on).
Some resistance on the second one, but overall no serious issues.
Swapped front UCA ball joint dust boots for Energy Suspension (5.13102G) per wisdom of the forum.
Swapped tie rod ends for Moog and the Moog dust boots for Energy Suspension (9.13101G).
POR-15. Love this stuff. My favorite coating. Takes some work, but well worth the effort. Coated the tie rod ends, inside face of front hubs, and rear sway bar brackets--see picture below. Also planning to coat the rear hubs, CV axles, and forward facing section of IRS differential.


First up was the PS rack install:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199124&d=1715105737


Here's a view of the Breeze offset bushing installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199122&d=1715105704


Not mentioned in the manual, and probably not necessary, but I like to prime the bushings with some grease before install.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199118&d=1715105704


POR-15: no I don't own their stock, but this stuff is awesome! Front hubs, Moog tie rods, and rear sway bar brackets.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199120&d=1715105704


I'm not using the tone ring (I think these are for ABS?), so I removed them. Ground a small slot into the ring with my Dremel, then tapped there and they split apart easily.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199119&d=1715105704


Added spacers to push the castle nut closer to the end to get cotter pin engagement. Had this same issue with my Roadster. Interestingly, extra spacers from my Wilwood brake kit fit perfectly in both cases.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199121&d=1715105704


View of passenger side together and ready for brake install. Planning to trim ~3/16" off the adjustment sleeve and stud of the rear UCA arms, to be sure I can dial in alignment specs later on.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199123&d=1715105737

[Namrups]

I share your love of the POR15. I used red....
Front:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=170698&d=1659897151
Rear:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=171771&d=1661891710

[460.465USMC]

Wow! I forgot you coated so much of the suspension. Looks fantastic, Scott!

[Namrups]

Nobody sees the rear end unless they lay on the ground but I know how it looks!!

[Nigel Allen]

Hard to beat a good looking rear end.

[460.465USMC]

I've been chipping away at the front brakes, and prepping the IRS bits for installation. I think suspension and brakes are one of the most enjoyable parts of the build for me. It's just plain cool to see all of the underpinnings come together. So much function here.

Front brakes - spindle clearance issue
I recall way back when seeing the interference issue Rsnake encountered while installing his front Wilwood caliper brackets. At the time I even picked up a basic deburring bit set to be prepared--needed one anyway. But it has been long enough I forgot about this issue until I went to install my caliper brackets. It seems the Wilwood Aerolite brackets do not quite fit. The top hole in the bracket doesn't line up with the hole in the spindle. This wasn't an issue with the Dynapro model on my Roadster.

Here's a view of the misalignment caused by the larger Aerolite caliper brackets. Thanks for the heads-up, Rsnake!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199733&d=1716410016


The upper ridge seen here on the spindle is where the interference occurs. I decided to grind down the spindle instead of caliper bracket.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199732&d=1716410016


Here's what it looks like after I ground down the spindle. Took some elbow grease to get the needed clearance. Then touched up with some black satin enamel. Caliper bracket upper hole lines up perfectly now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199735&d=1716410016


Here are some of the deburring bits I used, along with a flat file.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199734&d=1716410016


With that done, it was time to fit the calipers. Mine took one spacer between the spindle and the caliper bracket, and two spacers between the caliper bracket and the caliper to get everything lined up. Passenger side Wilwood brake installed! Don't forget the rotors and calipers are directional (red circles).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199731&d=1716409867


IRS prep started: in the meantime, I also started prepping the parts for IRS install.

First up was to remove the studs from the rear hubs, and install the supplied 1/2"-20 studs. Unfortunately, I don't have access to a press. Calling around last time I found my local shops didn't want to assume the liability. So, I followed F5 instructions and knocked them out with a hammer. I placed a piece of copper pipe around the circumference of the head of the stud in hopes it will help protect the hub from the hammer blows (2-3 strikes with a mini-sledge). It so happens this is the same piece of pipe I used on my Roadster, so this little piece of copper has held up well after 20 stud removals. I used an impact wrench to pull in the new studs.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199736&d=1716410190


Up next was the rear spindle prep. This time around my tool kit now includes a Sawzall. Much better than a hacksaw like last time. I used a 14 tooth blade to trim off the ear as shown in the manual. No problems with it gumming up.

To open up the tapered hole at the top of the spindle, I used a "taper chucking reamer"--pictured below. A new tool to me. It worked well in my 18V drill. It's one thousand times better than using a regular drill bit, which as you all know will just about break your wrists when it grabs. I also put a wire brush bit in my drill to cleanup the spindle. Then applied some clear high temp ceramic to protect it (a la Edwardb).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199737&d=1716410190

Still have some more prep to do on the differential (POR-15, etc.). And, I'm going to remove the body before installing it. Hoping to have the rear IRS complete with brakes installed next time.

Build on!

[Skuzzy]

Nice work.

[460.465USMC]

Nice work.

Thank you, Sir. I'm having a blast.

[Alan_C]

I ordered my Coupe kit ten months ago, so seeing Eric from Stewart Transport roll up 30 minutes early Monday morning was a bit surreal. I have to say it was as exciting and maybe even more fun than my Roadster delivery 3.5 years ago. It was good to meet Coupe number 566.

Eric was very helpful and friendly. He did a fantastic job throughout the entire unload process. My goal was to lift the Coupe off the cart and onto my four post lift. Since I have bridge jacks (AKA rolling jacks), rolling the cart up onto the lift was not an option. So, it came down to old fashioned muscle and grunt. This is where Eric really shined. We used a couple 2"x6" boards on edge (a la rhk118), one under the front, and one under the rear.

The back half of the Coupe is quite a bit heavier than the front, as others have noted. Heavier than I expected. Between Eric's help and expertise, and the additional muscle of a couple of my sons (i.e. strong, young backs) and brother-in-law, we managed to set it on the bridge jacks. Phew! So good to see it in the garage and on the lift.

I have the nose sitting on end against a wall in the garage, but I'm not sure where I'm going to put the body and nose long-term. My ceiling doesn't lend itself very well to the suspension option. Will noodle on that some more. Ideas are welcome.

After a brief 97 hours of inventory, it's done. Well, everything except the carpet--not going to bother with that. Otherwise, every nut, bolt, butt connector, and 0.25" female spade connector were counted. Maybe it didn't quite take me 97 hours, but it sure seemed like it. I'm more than ready to turn a wrench at this point!

Yee haw! #566 is in the air and ready to land on the cart.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198629&d=1714100366


That's Eric on the left. He had the first cart load of boxes off the truck and headed toward the garage in a blink.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198628&d=1714100366


Here you can see most of the boxes ready for inventory.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198627&d=1714100366


If you could see my smile looking at this view...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198625&d=1714100366


The Roadster has a stable mate. They're even color coordinated.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198626&d=1714100366


As I inventoried, I set aside the untreated mounts, brackets, etc. for powder coating. Most of the items in this view are part of the door frame and hinge setup.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198631&d=1714100551


Box #2 for powder coating.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198630&d=1714100551


Some observations:

I love the body lines even moreso in-person. Though I saw several Coupes at the F5 open house a couple years ago (including Edwarb's excellent build), I was more Roadster focused at that time and didn't linger too long looking over the Coupes.
Ingress/Egress: yep, it will be a challenge. This is much more obvious in-person than it looks in the pictures.
GPS vintage gauge set: didn't realize they are different than the Roadster. Tach/Speedo gauges are smaller, but the others are larger. And, no clock. Will be considering adding a clock.
Over all, the new inventory process went well. Although, it didn't go any faster as I had hoped. But that's likely just an artifact of a small mind's limited processing power.
Very small POL: just the headliner and heater control valve and controller. Thanks, F5!
Coupe fastener pack in Box 1: I asked F5 and they sent me an itemized list, as I couldn't find one. I'm more than okay having the fasteners in one box. And, the individually labeled bags are helpful. I found several quantity mismatches between the emailed list and the labels on the bags. I'll ask F5 to supply the difference.
Will be replacing black oxide fasteners with SS. Only a few were not replaced on my Roadster, and they've rusted.
Set aside uncoated brackets and mounts in a separate box that I will soon drop off for powder coating--see picture above.
I tend to reorganize parts (e.g. electrical) that obviously go together into the same box. I find this helps locate them more easily when needed. And, it condenses the number of boxes taking up shelf space.
I also write the major components on the outside of each box. I find this gives me a quick visual when I need to locate stuff during the build. However, I know I'll still need to consult the inventory pages (now in a three ring binder) now and then.


Let the build commence in earnest. This should keep me busy for a few years, anyway. Wow! What did I get myself into?

Happy building!

Congrats on the delivery. I will receive my kit in late August, build on!

[460.465USMC]

I've been chipping away at the IRS over the last couple of weeks or so. It was really nice to not have anything on POL or MIK. My only limiting factor was my own garage time. After finishing prep (POR-15 and clearcoat) on the various IRS bits, it was time for assembly.

Issues:

Tight tolerances: I haven't read any build thread that didn't encounter at least one IRS component (UCA, LCA, and Toe) with mounting tabs too close together. I had it pretty easy on this build, just needed to open up the Toe tabs, and one of the UCA tabs. I prefer to use my large 18" adjustable wrench (Harbor Freight). I found it just as effective as the threaded rod approach. The bonus is it's much faster and easier. I close the jaws of the wrench on each tab mount with a rag between the jaws (one side at a time), and bend the tabs apart a little at a time.
Differential: these aren't getting any lighter (~95 lbs), and the space to work them up into place is minimal. As reported many times, the tolerances are very tight. Hats off to F5 for the level of precision in their welding. This time around I had my engine hoist. Working solo, I was able to lift it slowly into place. Start the rear bolts first. Once those are started, push the front bolts through one at a time. Did I mention it's tight? A few deep breaths in celebration afterward. Phew!


In addition to POR-15 on the front section of the diff., I cleaned up the rear section. Then coated with clear high temp enamel. A bit of elbow grease, but worth it IMHO.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200323&d=1717607549


Nice to have the engine hoist as my second set of "arms". Still not quick or easy for me, but it made all the difference.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200324&d=1717607549


Here's a rear view of the left side completed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200327&d=1717607628


View from the front:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200328&d=1717607628


As I mentioned previously, I went with the Wilwood electric parking brake. The caliper takes up quite a bit more real estate due to the electric motor. The left and right calipers are swapped to get the necessary clearance. Here's the view from above:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200329&d=1717607628


And view from the rear of it all together. Sway bar: a lesson learned from my last build is to loosely thread the fasteners and heim joints so everything is started. Then, they can be torqued down together. Obvious now, but I had to learn the hard way.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200325&d=1717607549


Final view from below. If you ask me, the IRS is a thing of beauty. Very cool. As suggested by Edwardb, I assembled the UCA and Toe adjusters for equal thread on both sides.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200326&d=1717607549

Next up is the fuel tank, pump, filter, and then on to SS lines. I'm a little apprehensive about the SS fuel lines, but also looking forward to the challenge of making my own flares, etc.

[Alan_C]

If you have your heart set on SS brake lines, I get it. However, may I suggest as others have to consider nickel copper alloy line instead. While the color is a bit unusual, sort of a light copper color, everything else about the product is positive. I have used line from Fedhill USA. They have high quality line that is seamless unlike some cheaper brands. They have the required fittings as well. On my MK4 I built over 10 years ago, I used the nickel copper line from Fedhill. I incorporated ABS into that build. There were 24 connections on my build, no leaks and no failures in the years since the car was built. I used the Eastwood flare tool set as well. Together, easy to make the lines after some test flares are performed. I have now used the Fedhill line on a second build, a 70 Mustang restomod. I made templates from TIG welding rod and formed perfectly shaped lines for the car. Unless you must have SS as in a show vehicle, IMO no reason to not use the nickel copper line as it will make your life easier.

http://www.fedhillusa.com/

[460.465USMC]

Appreciate your thoughts and input, Alan. This build definitely won't be a show car. My build skill level is more along the lines of junior-assistant-builder. It's more about trying something new, and seeing if I can do it. I already have the SS fuel lines, SS brake lines, and the Eastwood flare tool. If I fail with the stainless, then Ni-Cop will be my go-to. I guess I enjoy banging my head against the wall? Who knows, maybe I'll knock some sense in someday. :p

[Alan_C]

I guess I enjoy banging my head against the wall? Who knows, maybe I'll knock some sense in someday. :p
You are not alone my friend, getting our heads wrapped around the axle is too easy to do, not to mention over thinking something to death before just going for it and doing it.
Hey I took on a full restomod of a 70 Mach 1, so I really get it as the dents in the wall continue to accumulate. Fortunately the Mustang will be done next year and I will return to build a 65 Daytona coupe with Chevy power no less.

[Rhino]

Hello Chris,
It looks like your build is rolling along nicely. I'm about a week ahead of you. It's tempting to take off a week to let you get ahead. Reviewing your thread showed a few things I wish I had done differently. The tank is in on mine and brake and fuel lines are going in. A few minor problems popped up. Posting photos is still giving me issues, but I'll be posting on my thread tonight.
Terry

[460.465USMC]

Hi Terry. Plenty of ways to approach things, so who's to say your approach isn't better, or at least best for your build. I'm slow, but I keep at it, trying to touch the build every day after work, if possible. Otherwise, my future grandchildren would end up with a half-built Coupe! :p My number one goal is to enjoy the process, and do my best to end up with a quality build (within my limited skillset).

I look forward to your updates later today.

[Rhino]

The builder's manual was kept close for the first few weeks. It took a while to decide that it was only a point of departure. All the answers aren't contained in its 584 pages. We now start there, but we move beyond. We are starting to loosen up with the build and having a lot more fun.

[460.465USMC]

With the suspension built up, I decided it was time to make this thing a roller. It gives me the freedom to take the build off the lift as needed to accommodate other vehicle maintenance.

I chose the BFGOODRICH G-Force Rival S 1.5. I'm running the Nitto NT555 G2s on the Roadster. No complaints there, just wanted to try something different on the Coupe. Through some type of inventory error at Discount Tire, I ordered the Rival S, but was given the Rival S 1.5. Since it was their error, I was given the newer version at the old version price. Saved over $400. I'll take it, as it usually goes the other way. :D

Front: 275/35 R18. Wheel: 18x9
Rear: 315/30 R18 Wheel: 18x10

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200377&d=1717774173


I dig the deep dish wheel look. This is the rear.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200378&d=1717774173

[JimStone]

Now it's looking like a race car! I like the wheels, nice choice

[Barwickad]

Wheels and tires look great!

[460.465USMC]

Now it's looking like a race car! I like the wheels, nice choice

Thanks, Jim. It's a fun milestone in the project.


Wheels and tires look great!

Appreciate it, Andy. Can you tell I'm not a Halibrand dude? :p Hope to see some body/paint updates soon on your Roadster.

[Blitzboy54]

Those wheels are sexy Chris.

[460.465USMC]

Thanks, Jesse. Did I mention this is a blast?

Wait a minute...your signature. Wait, wuh? A second MK4 build? More news is needed on this late breaking story!

[Blitzboy54]

Thanks, Jesse. Did I mention this is a blast?

Wait a minute...your signature. Wait, wuh? A second MK4 build? More news is needed on this late breaking story!

I got the bug like you to keep building. I just don't have the cheddar to keep my first one and do it again. So I sold her (went fast) and ordered another roadster kit. This time with all the bells and whistles. I will be able to take what I learned and with a bigger budget build the car I never knew I wanted. I'll save the details for the build thread but I'm stepping up to Coyote and IRS.

This one is going to be very different. People are going absolutely love it or hate it. There will be no in between.

[460.465USMC]

Congrats! That’s exciting. I’m loving your choice for motor and rear suspension! Looking forward to getting the details in your new build thread.

[460.465USMC]

While I'm pecking away at the fuel system, I took a short detour and installed the F5 supplied "safety loop" for the power steering rack.

I'm assuming builders who recently ordered the F5 power steering option have received (or will soon) this stainless bracket. Mine came a week ago or so, with a tech update document inside the box. Apparently, a very small number of builders have reported receiving their PS rack with damage. Sounds like it has been on the right side mount. I didn't notice any crack in mine, but opted to install the safety loop as a precaution. Factory Five is shipping them out free of charge to add an additional layer of safety.

It comes as uncoated stainless, so I coated it with Eastwood Chassis Black. Install was a cinch since my Coupe is wide open and easily accessible. Just remove the mounting bolt and slip in the safety loop.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200660&d=1718378946


Installed: view from the front.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200661&d=1718378946


View from the rear.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200662&d=1718378946


I received two of them, perhaps because the PS rack in my Roadster is new enough (circa 2020)? Not sure if I will install that one, but coated it at the same time so it's ready to go. Will have to take a close look at it next time it's up on the lift.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Maybe I missed it Chris but what wheels are those? That's kind of what I have in mind for the next one.

It's all looking great!

Jeff

[JimStone]

While I'm pecking away at the fuel system, I took a short detour and installed the F5 supplied "safety loop" for the power steering rack.

I'm assuming builders who recently ordered the F5 power steering option have received (or will soon) this stainless bracket. Mine came a week ago or so, with a tech update document inside the box. Apparently, a very small number of builders have reported receiving their PS rack with damage. Sounds like it has been on the right side mount. I didn't notice any crack in mine, but opted to install the safety loop as a precaution. Factory Five is shipping them out free of charge to add an additional layer of safety.

It comes as uncoated stainless, so I coated it with Eastwood Chassis Black. Install was a cinch since my Coupe is wide open and easily accessible. Just remove the mounting bolt and slip in the safety loop.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200660&d=1718378946


Installed: view from the front.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200661&d=1718378946


View from the rear.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200662&d=1718378946


I received two of them, perhaps because the PS rack in my Roadster is new enough (circa 2020)? Not sure if I will install that one, but coated it at the same time so it's ready to go. Will have to take a close look at it next time it's up on the lift.

Interesting. I haven't gotten one. So, what's the theory here? The rack is going to snap off at the weld points of the mount or something and the loop is going prevent what? Wouldn't both mounts have to break before you'd get steered into a wall?

[460.465USMC]

Maybe I missed it Chris but what wheels are those? That's kind of what I have in mind for the next one.

It's all looking great!

Jeff

Hi Jeff. The wheels are 1994-04 Mustang SVE Series 2. I bought them from LMR. Here's the link: 1994-04 Mustang SVE Series 2. (https://lmr.com/item/SVE-56489653K/Mustang-SVE-Series-2-Wheel-Kit-18x9-10-Gun-Metal?sc_src=email_2051103&sc_lid=255848560&sc_uid=VszDVZZy3o&sc_llid=931906&utm_source=emarsys&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Order+%7C+Order+Received+Final-2019-12-18+17%3A53%3A00&utm_content=&sc_eh=f76424d10fb2a5a81)

[460.465USMC]

Interesting. I haven't gotten one. So, what's the theory here? The rack is going to snap off at the weld points of the mount or something and the loop is going prevent what? Wouldn't both mounts have to break before you'd get steered into a wall?

All good questions, Jim. I reread the document sent with the safety loop, and it says they are sending these to MK4 and Coupe customers who purchased power steering racks since 2017. Your guess is as good as mine as to what could happen if the mount(s) were cracked/broken. Maybe someone with more experience than me can provide some insight. Regardless, it's an easy precaution and I was happy to install it.

[Dmac800]

Hi Chris,
Where did you get the parts for the straightener?

Don

[460.465USMC]

Hi Don.

The orange pulleys I picked up from Amazon ($9/pack): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076V6H6GS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. The "jaws" I picked up as a single remnant piece of stock aluminum from my local metal supplier. The screws and washers can be sourced from your favorite hardware store, or my favorite online supplier, McMaster-Carr.

Here's the video which contains a list of all the parts: https://youtu.be/8BkXDwFj3PA?si=pXtq-nH-vny2nvuF

[Dmac800]

Thanks!

[460.465USMC]

It's been a couple months or so since I've worked on the build. Lots of house maintenance items and other life stuff consuming my time. So, I'm anxious to get back at it, especially with the arrival of my Coyote Gen 4X (M-6007-M50H). The ECU pack (M-6017-M50HM) is on back order--I don't think Ford has released them quite yet. I recently traded emails with Dan G. at F5, and he confirmed they are also waiting. Of course, the price for the Gen 4X went up ($1,600) compared to what I paid for the Gen 3. But that was four years ago, and this is the next iteration of the Coyote.

The Coyote crate motor arrived with no warning. The truck just showed up. Thankfully, my wife happened to be home to accept it, and had them roll it into the garage with their pallet jack. I guess I won't complain, free shipping after all.

I thought Ford did a great job with the crate, leaving a nice gap (safety zone from unwanted penetrations) around the entire motor. (My Gen 3 did not have that safety zone [re-crated by another vendor], and sure enough a fork lift found it's way through the crate. Thankfully, it was just a dented oil filter. No other damage).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204131&d=1726357475


Once I had it uncrated, had to scratch my head a bit to figure out how to get it off the pallet. My Sawzall seemed to be the best option. So, I cut a "V" in the pallet so my HF engine hoist could sort of saddle the pallet. This gave the needed reach for the lift plates to bolt on--nice to be able to use those again.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203149&d=1724680897


Here it is in all its glory. Notice there's no oil filter cooler spacer piece to remove on the Gen 4X. So, no need to buy the oil filter nipple (AL3Z-6890-A).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204132&d=1726357475


I had to pick up an engine stand, as I'm going to prep the Coyote myself this time around. I'm one of those guys who bought all of the accompanying Gen 3 accessories from F5 with my order. Not realizing the Gen 3 wouldn't be available by the time I was ready to order the motor. D'oh! So, I'm test fitting some items to make sure they'll fit. Here's the right side header from F5. Seems to fit just fine.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204133&d=1726357475


For those interested in a Coyote for their build, I'm sure you've heard about the change in header bolt pattern on the left side. I guess Ford changed it to the 5.2L pattern. So, my left side header will not directly bolt up. The middle two cylinder exhaust port bolts don't align--see red arrows. Thankfully, Forte will be making an "adapter" of sorts so those who bought Gen 3 headers can still use them. Looking forward to seeing a copy of one.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204134&d=1726357475


I popped off the oil pan to see if anything changed. The oil pan gasket looks exactly like what F5 called out in their instructions for the Gen 3 Moroso oil pan swap (gasket #BR3Z-6710-A). So, it appears it won't be necessary to buy one. Also, notice the oil pick up. It looks a lot like the Moroso pick up in the Gen 3 instructions, except it's much taller.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204136&d=1726357514


Check out how the Ford oil pick up is attached. Much more solid looking than the Gen 3 plastic pop-in design.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204135&d=1726357514

I think I will pause on the Coyote prep for now until I can find out what will be needed in terms of oil pan, oil pickup, etc. This means back to the fuel system (tank, lines, etc.).

[Blitzboy54]

Hey Chris,

Glad to see you back at it. Another option would be to buy a drivers side header from ford. Then cut the mounting plate off of both and have a shop weld them back together. The exhaust ports didn’t change location so everything should fit back together without an issue. Unless the adaptor fits over the top (it very well could) it will screw up your exhaust alignment.

[460.465USMC]

Thanks for your thoughts, Jesse. Are you going with Gen 4X as well? If so, which direction are you leaning toward in solving this challenge? (Maybe this is already noted in your build thread--I need to catch up on your progress).

[TXeverydayDad]

Thanks for the picture of the header bolts! Very useful to get an idea of what the difference is and how the F5 headers ‘fit’. I’m expecting my Gen4x within 2-4 weeks, hopefully with the control pack included at that time. Latest I heard was 9/30 availability of the control pack.

[Blitzboy54]

Thanks for your thoughts, Jesse. Are you going with Gen 4X as well? If so, which direction are you leaning toward in solving this challenge? (Maybe this is already noted in your build thread--I need to catch up on your progress).

I purchased a factory remanufactured Gen 2. It came from Ford and has 100,000 mile warranty. Stock, it will produce about 50HP less than yours. Unless I supercharge it ;)

[460.465USMC]

I purchased a factory remanufactured Gen 2. It came from Ford and has 100,000 mile warranty. Stock, it will produce about 50HP less than yours. Unless I supercharge it ;)

Nice! That should do the trick. Looking forward to seeing that supercharger-breathing-flame-thrower fire up!

[PNWTim]

As I mentioned, the stainless tubing I'll be using for fuel and brake lines is coiled. Initially, I hit the easy button and bought a couple handheld tubing straighteners (3/8" and 3/16") from Eastwood. But after seeing a few home-built straighteners, I decided to try my hand at making one. It looked fun to build and saving some coin is not a bad thing. So, I returned the Eastwood units, and settled on a DIY straightener I found on YouTube (there are many!).

I think I spent <$40 for all the parts needed. Buying a short stick of 3/4" aluminum bar stock from a local metal supplier helped keep the cost down.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197924&d=1712506838


For me, a drill press is a necessity for this level of precision. Thankful my Dad gave me his a few years ago. It took a minute to tap the 8 (count them) 3/4" deep holes. Here you can see the wheels installed, and the holes to mount to the vise jaws. Original jaw on bottom for reference.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197926&d=1712506838


Here it is altogether and ready to go in the vise. These wheels are specifically for 3/8" diameter tubing, but I'm hoping I can also use them to straighten the 3/16" brake lines as well. The clamping force of the vise is obviously adjustable, and it only takes a couple minutes to swap out the vice jaws for the straightening jig. It's too early to straighten my lines, but looking forward to giving this jig a real-world test in a few months. It sure looks promising in the video by the guy who designed it:


https://youtu.be/8BkXDwFj3PA?si=ByVQvu_WeXygiZD9.

Wilwood Dynapro v. Superlite Rotors
It's been about 3.5 years since I safety-wired the Wilwoods in my Roadster. A refresher video was in order. One video had a good tip on estimating wire length for each stud pair: measure between studs and multiple by 5 (2.25" X 5=11.25").
Worked perfectly. Thankfully, I remembered to set my torque wrench to 155 inch-pounds. Phew! The process came back to me after the first few were done. I don't know that my quality improved over last time, but I did notice I was faster. Overall, I enjoyed the process, and it feels like I've started the build.

I used the same Harbor Freight safety pliers, and patted myself on the back after finishing the first rotor/hat pair without bloodshed. Three sets of studs later my fingers felt wet. Dang! Safety-wire strikes again. First blood. Those wire ends are sharp.

Here's a picture to show it happened. This is one of the rear rotors.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197962&d=1712587734


On my Roadster build I ordered Wilwoods from F5. They sell the Dynapro, drilled and slotted. This time I bought from Levy Racing. I went with Superlite six piston on the front (13"), and Dynapro four piston on the rear (13"). The Superlites are definitely beefier: 1.25" thick v. Dynapro 13/16". No difference in the machined surface area on the rotor, but an increase of brake pad surface area by ~28% (3.9" v. 5.4").

See the difference between the Dynapro (left) and Superlite (right)?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197961&d=1712587734


I'm sure the Dynapro would have been just fine for my use at all four corners, but Levy's pricing made it a simple decision. And, it's something different I wanted to try on this build.

Two weeks from today until delivery. :D

Chris - be prepared to be peppered with questions. Love the straightening tool and it's genius to include it in the vise itself - seems like a no brainer. In regards to brakes, I also did not include them in my order so planning on outsourcing those. I am curious what your specific reasons were for choosing the Superlites over the Dynapro? Was it cosmetics, more brake for the same money or a combination of other factors? Thanks in advance.

[460.465USMC]

Chris - be prepared to be peppered with questions. Love the straightening tool and it's genius to include it in the vise itself - seems like a no brainer. In regards to brakes, I also did not include them in my order so planning on outsourcing those. I am curious what your specific reasons were for choosing the Superlites over the Dynapro? Was it cosmetics, more brake for the same money or a combination of other factors? Thanks in advance.

Let the questions come. I've asked (and still asking!) more than my fair share over the last few years. I'm happy to help if I can. Plenty of other more experienced/skilled builders here if you stump me (not hard to do).

Why did I go with Superlite on the front? A few reasons. I was a little underwhelmed with the braking on my Roadster (though I didn't try more aggressive pads). But maybe some of that is because I didn't adjust my braking expectations enough for the difference between manual and the power assist on other modern performance cars I've owned? Anyway, the Superlite calipers/pads have more surface area than the Dynapros, so that should help. I may also try more aggressive pads, e.g. BP-20 that Blitzboy is using.

Second, the pricing from Gordon Levy was competitive with F5, i.e. better brakes for similar cost.

Third, I want to try some different things with the Coupe build where I can, and where it makes sense to me. The Superlites are not drilled, just slotted, which is just fine with me. I know the drilled look has a cool factor, but from the reading I've done (as a simple minded layman), the benefits are debatable.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Single throttle body or two?

Jeff

[PNWTim]

Single throttle body or two?

Jeff

I believe single throttle body as he bought the Gen4X with the X designating single. I'll let Chris confirm that. I thought I was going to be the beta tester for the Gen 4 but he beat me to it. Looking forward to seeing info on pan selection and other needs.

[PNWTim]

It's been a couple months or so since I've worked on the build. Lots of house maintenance items and other life stuff consuming my time. So, I'm anxious to get back at it, especially with the arrival of my Coyote Gen 4X (M-6007-M50H). The ECU pack (M-6017-M50HM) is on back order--I don't think Ford has released them quite yet. I recently traded emails with Dan G. at F5, and he confirmed they are also waiting. Of course, the price for the Gen 4X went up ($1,600) compared to what I paid for the Gen 3. But that was four years ago, and this is the next iteration of the Coyote.

The Coyote crate motor arrived with no warning. The truck just showed up. Thankfully, my wife happened to be home to accept it, and had them roll it into the garage with their pallet jack. I guess I won't complain, free shipping after all.

I thought Ford did a great job with the crate, leaving a nice gap (safety zone from unwanted penetrations) around the entire motor. (My Gen 3 did not have that safety zone [re-crated by another vendor], and sure enough a fork lift found it's way through the crate. Thankfully, it was just a dented oil filter. No other damage).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204131&d=1726357475


Once I had it uncrated, had to scratch my head a bit to figure out how to get it off the pallet. My Sawzall seemed to be the best option. So, I cut a "V" in the pallet so my HF engine hoist could sort of saddle the pallet. This gave the needed reach for the lift plates to bolt on--nice to be able to use those again.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203149&d=1724680897


Here it is in all its glory. Notice there's no oil filter cooler spacer piece to remove on the Gen 4X. So, no need to buy the oil filter nipple (AL3Z-6890-A).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204132&d=1726357475


I had to pick up an engine stand, as I'm going to prep the Coyote myself this time around. I'm one of those guys who bought all of the accompanying Gen 3 accessories from F5 with my order. Not realizing the Gen 3 wouldn't be available by the time I was ready to order the motor. D'oh! So, I'm test fitting some items to make sure they'll fit. Here's the right side header from F5. Seems to fit just fine.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204133&d=1726357475


For those interested in a Coyote for their build, I'm sure you've heard about the change in header bolt pattern on the left side. I guess Ford changed it to the 5.2L pattern. So, my left side header will not directly bolt up. The middle two cylinder exhaust port bolts don't align--see red arrows. Thankfully, Forte will be making an "adapter" of sorts so those who bought Gen 3 headers can still use them. Looking forward to seeing a copy of one.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204134&d=1726357475


I popped off the oil pan to see if anything changed. The oil pan gasket looks exactly like what F5 called out in their instructions for the Gen 3 Moroso oil pan swap (gasket #BR3Z-6710-A). So, it appears it won't be necessary to buy one. Also, notice the oil pick up. It looks a lot like the Moroso pick up in the Gen 3 instructions, except it's much taller.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204136&d=1726357514


Check out how the Ford oil pick up is attached. Much more solid looking than the Gen 3 plastic pop-in design.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204135&d=1726357514

I think I will pause on the Coyote prep for now until I can find out what will be needed in terms of oil pan, oil pickup, etc. This means back to the fuel system (tank, lines, etc.).

Based on your observations and research (of which I have done little) do you believe the same Moroso pan is going to fit since it appears the gasket is similar? I intentionally didn't order headers and side pipes as I had heard about the bolt up difference and had always planned to go with Gas'n pipes. I sent them a note this week to enquire about the Gen 4 version of the headers and will let you know what I find out.

[460.465USMC]

I believe single throttle body as he bought the Gen4X with the X designating single. I'll let Chris confirm that. I thought I was going to be the beta tester for the Gen 4 but he beat me to it. Looking forward to seeing info on pan selection and other needs.

Hi Jeff. Single throttle body. Pretty sure I don't have the mechanical chops to get the dual version to fit. But raising the hood to an additional 20 HP, plus the cool factor of two throttle bodies...oh, yeah.

[460.465USMC]

Based on your observations and research (of which I have done little) do you believe the same Moroso pan is going to fit since it appears the gasket is similar? I intentionally didn't order headers and side pipes as I had heard about the bolt up difference and had always planned to go with Gas'n pipes. I sent them a note this week to enquire about the Gen 4 version of the headers and will let you know what I find out.

The oil pickup is much taller than the Moroso pick up. So, I don't think the same Moroso pan will work (too shallow). I'm going to guess (just my speculation) Moroso will offer a revised design for the Gen 4, for both the pan and the pickup.

Yes, please let me know what Georgie says about Gen 4 header availability. I'm hoping Forte's "adapter" will work for the left side stainless header I have, but always good to know about other options just in case.

[PNWTim]

I spoke with the guys at Gas'n today regarding headers and the Gen 4 and they are all over it. They have already created prototypes and if you were to order today they would be able to provide a set. They should have the ordering option and pictures up on their website very shortly. I personally was relieved to hear this as I chose the header and side pipe delete assuming I would be buying from Georgie.

[jpschramek]

I believe single throttle body as he bought the Gen4X with the X designating single. I'll let Chris confirm that. I thought I was going to be the beta tester for the Gen 4 but he beat me to it. Looking forward to seeing info on pan selection and other needs.

So I'm just in the research stage for building the coupe and have been focusing on the Gen 4 Coyote quite a bit, especially the difference between the 4 and the 4x. My preference would be to go with the 4 because of all the advantages of the dual intakes but wondering about the fit in the engine bay. Have you or anyone tried the Gen 4 yet?

[narkosys]

The most important difference (to me) between the two is that the one with the dual intake is non tunable.

P

[jpschramek]

The most important difference (to me) between the two is that the one with the dual intake is non tunable.

P

"yet". I've been hearing that it will be eventually, prob by the time I get around to actually building the car. I'm thinking more about spacing for the intakes in the engine bay and the different bolt patterns for the headers.

[JohnK]

The oil pickup is much taller than the Moroso pick up. So, I don't think the same Moroso pan will work (too shallow). I'm going to guess (just my speculation) Moroso will offer a revised design for the Gen 4, for both the pan and the pickup.

I'm pretty sure this has been the case with all generations of coyote engines and the Moroso pan. The shallower pan is required for clearance purposes, and they've all required a shallower pickup. I think the Gen1 and Gen2 used the same pickup. The Gen3 went with a new pickup design (that took Moroso *forever* to release) and the Gen4 looks to be a new pickup design yet again. I'm guessing the same pan that has fit Gen 1-3 will also fit Gen 4, just with a new pickup. If time is an issue, review Edwardb's coupe build thread to see how he modified his stock gen3 pickup to fit since the Moroso pickup wasn't available yet. Or you could just wait and Moroso will likely eventually release one.

I have no doubt that Georgie will come out with gen4-specific headers. I've seen first-hand the custom work that he can do. This change is pretty trivial for him.

[PNWTim]

Based on what I have seen of recent coupe builds the dual throttle bodies would be very difficult to realize. The PS would conflict with the radiator hoses/tubes as there does not appear anywhere else for them to go. I am not sure there is any benefit to running the dual TB other than a few horsepower and the cool factor. I will be ordering the same engine Chris did and appreciate the fact it's available.

[460.465USMC]

I'm pretty sure this has been the case with all generations of coyote engines and the Moroso pan. The shallower pan is required for clearance purposes, and they've all required a shallower pickup. I think the Gen1 and Gen2 used the same pickup. The Gen3 went with a new pickup design (that took Moroso *forever* to release) and the Gen4 looks to be a new pickup design yet again. I'm guessing the same pan that has fit Gen 1-3 will also fit Gen 4, just with a new pickup. If time is an issue, review Edwardb's coupe build thread to see how he modified his stock gen3 pickup to fit since the Moroso pickup wasn't available yet. Or you could just wait and Moroso will likely eventually release one.

I have no doubt that Georgie will come out with gen4-specific headers. I've seen first-hand the custom work that he can do. This change is pretty trivial for him.

Thanks for the background and chiming in, John. I recall what Edwardb did to get a workable oil pickup on his Gen 3. It didn't look easy to me. Glad I have PLENTY of stuff to do on the build before I'm in a pinch for a shallow oil pan/oil pickup. I'm hoping Moroso has it figured out by the time I'm ready.

Agreed, Georgie puts out high quality/custom work. I remember what he did on your build. It was great.

[jpschramek]

Thanks for the background and chiming in, John. I recall what Edwardb did to get a workable oil pickup on his Gen 3. It didn't look easy to me. Glad I have PLENTY of stuff to do on the build before I'm in a pinch for a shallow oil pan/oil pickup. I'm hoping Moroso has it figured out by the time I'm ready.

Agreed, Georgie puts out high quality/custom work. I remember what he did on your build. It was great.

Good to know - I haven't even ordered the kit yet so no where near needing to deal with this, I'm just trying to get all my ducks in a row before I drop any cash on this project. I've also heard from my Canadian rep that FFR is working on the driver's side header for it since the bolt pattern is different (same as the 5.2 from what I've read) and that's coming soon. I think the twin intake should fit and have seen some good videos about how it makes the car more drivable at low rev's and also increases the power (like we need more right?). I just feel that overall it has more potential but like others have said the 4x is plenty.

[jpschramek]

For those that are interested this is a good video that compares the single Gen 3 to the Gen 4 dual intakes - https://youtu.be/lMyA_6rJJAg?si=f_vKnTc-IZYTYnHt

[460.465USMC]

I previously mentioned making a DIY tubing straightener (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48700-Chris-Coupe-Build-566-Coyote-Gen-4X-Nice-to-Meet-You&p=552632&viewfull=1#post552632) I copied from a design I found on YouTube. Yesterday, it was finally time to test it on the 3/8" SS tubing I'll be using for my supply and return fuel lines. It worked well.

If you have absolutely nothing better to do, here's a one-minute video of me straightening my first 6' section of tubing (https://youtube.com/shorts/6jyRGaB4zqo?feature=share). The genius of this design is that it's vice mounted. This makes it easy to finely adjust the two sets of pulleys to press against the tube with just the right amount of clamping force. Not too much. Not too little.

Next comes the challenging part (for me): forming the tubes to run through the left side of the transmission tunnel as others have done. I really struggled to bend the brake tubing on my Roadster build. Multidimensional thinking is not my forte. I suspect this time will be no different. I will have to estimate the location of the jog for T-56 shifter clearance, as I don't yet have my transmission. Thankfully, there are pictures from others who've already done this.

Note: after this post, I noticed the 3/8" SS tubing I straightened was distorted. It appears I applied too much pressure to the pulleys, and now the tubing is oval in spots. I tried additional pieces, eating most of the way through the 25' roll of tubing without good results. Huge bummer! Probably just my inexperience/lack of skill, as I'm sure this DIY tool will work if done correctly. Stepping back to consider this, I decided to wave the white flag on stainless, and go with SS braided PFTE for fuel lines, and Ni-Cop for brake lines.
See below for additional details on what happened.

[PNWTim]

Apparently I have nothing better to do so I watched the video :cool:. It looked like it worked pretty well but difficult to tell from the angle of the camera. Do you feel like it straightened the line well or were there still humps and jogs in it afterwards?

[460.465USMC]

Very little if any in the way of humps or jogs. The 6'3" piece I straightened has a gentle bow. I'm a newbie in all this, so I may prove myself wrong here, but I don't expect the slight bow to come into play as I bend the tube. I'll see if I can grab a picture and post here.

[460.465USMC]

Here's a picture of the 3/8" SS tubing next to a piece of rigid conduit after I ran it through my DIY straightener. I don't know if it's typical to have a gentle curve in coiled SS tubing after it's been through a straightener. Or, if my straightening process needs improvement?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205155&d=1728659279

[JohnK]

Hey Chris. Nice work with the DIY straightener. That’s pretty cool. When I was straightening coils of SS tubing I ended up with a similar bow in the tubing. In my experience, ff you run it through again, pulling down slightly on the end as it’s coming out of the straightener in the opposite direction of the bow, it should straighten it out. A tiny bit of bow isn’t a big deal. The tubing has enough spring in it that as you set it in its final position on the chassis and clamp it you can pull it straight.

[460.465USMC]

I thought there could be some interest in an update on my Coyote Gen 4X ECU (M-6017-M50HM). I received notice today that it finally shipped (Summit Racing). I emailed Dan G. at F5, as I'm curious if they've also received theirs, or will receive it soon. Looking forward to their Coyote fitment update for the Gen 4X.

[460.465USMC]

Fuel Line Fail
Bad news first--not bad, really. Just disappointing. My attempt at 3/8" SS tubing is a Fail. Why? I believe the root cause is my handy dandy DIY straightener (and I was so proud of it!). However, after several attempts, I found the straightener is pressing the tube into an oval shape. I believe this is caused by a slight misalignment between the pulleys as they face each other. One side of pulleys sits >1/16 inch above the other row. Just bad quality control in the straightener manufacturing process (by yours truly). I think the straightener would work fine otherwise, but do keep in mind the amount of pressure from the vise.

I could either re-make/fix my straightener (time), and buy more SS tubing ($$). Or, go with the SS braided option (like I did on my Roadster build). I chose to go braided. Plus, I was able to return the pricey Tube Swage Let-Lok connectors (for the hardline) to cover the braided hose. Big thanks to Mark at Breeze for helping out! A great forum vendor, he is (in my best Yota impersonation)! Ultimately, I decided not to make 3/8" SS tubing a career project. There are so many other challenges I'm looking forward to in this build. Moving on.

Fuel Tank Progress
The fuel tank install was pretty straight forward overall. The new parts for me are the Pro-M hangar, Walbro pump, and Trick Flow filter. New to me, but far from new on this forum.

Straightening the raised lip on the front of the tank (per instructions) so the 3/4" square tube will snug up flush. I tried these clamps (HF specials), and they worked pretty good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205312&d=1728944255


I found this Walbro power connector that snaps into the fuel pump for a solid connection. Less than $10.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205313&d=1728944255


Here is a view of the hangar and pump together, ready to be installed (part numbers for everything below). The Molex crimp and seal butt connectors are not cheap, but I trust Edwardb's recommend for this application. The fuel filter sock is not attached in this picture, but it was before going into the tank. I was glad to see Walbro supplied pinch style clamps, as I had a worm-drive clamp fail early on my Roadster. The pinch tool is something I have on hand for lawn sprinkler repair.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205314&d=1728944255


The bracket that secures the filler tube caught me off guard. Something I've read about in the past, but had since forgotten. Others have improved upon this setup (e.g. JimStone, Edwardb), but I'm calling F5's design functional and good enough. Admittedly, dropping the tank full of gas in the future would be a pain in the hind quarters, because it's not easy to get an Allen wrench in there to loosen the bracket (filler tube and bracket must be removed for tank install and removal).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205315&d=1728944255


Placement of the Trick Flow fuel filter similar to others.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205316&d=1728944292


Here's what the Trick Flow looks like with the cannister cover removed. Talk about easy maintenance for fuel filter replacement!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205311&d=1728944255


IRS vent (<$10), and fits perfectly in the F5 supplied IRS breather hose. (Thanks, Fman!).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205322&d=1728945828


Part numbers and a few musings

Tank straps - rear bolts: used SS 5/16" again. The hoops in the straps are too small for the provided 3/8" bolts. I'm sure I could bang them in--removing plenty of paint in the process. Plus, difficult to remove when/if I need to remove the straps (had to a few times during my Roadster build-up).
Tank straps - front bolts: bought 3/8"-18 x 2.5" socket heads. I know there are workarounds, but I'm not going to mess around again trying to get the straps closed over the bolt with the too short (2.25)" kit-supplied bolts. Especially, since I seem to pull the tank off/on more times than I care to admit during the build up. Probably not an issue for other builders.
Tank filler gasket: Ford F4ZZ-9072-DA. This is a highly recommended/documented upgrade. There have been a number of leakage reports on the forum. Easy and cheap insurance to do now.
Fuel level sender: measured 15 ohms (empty) and 160 ohms (full) as expected. Similar to my Roadster.
Walbro fuel pump (Now TI Automotive (P/N: GSS340BX): 255 lph
Pro-M Racing hangar (1986 – 1997 Mustangs) with 3/8" inlet/outlet and 6AN female connections
Walbro wiring harness (VPN-94-615). Shown above. Clicks into the pump connector
Molex 19164-0077, Perma-Seal™ Heat Shrink & Crimp Step-Down Butt Connector (Del City). Cut the wires to length so they're not resting or making contact with the hangar.
Light coating of motor oil on the round gaskets (not the square edged ones), and tightened retaining rings with channel locks. "Use the O-ring [gaskets] included with the kit not the square profiled O-ring sent with the sender"
Got the fuel pump and bracket assembly installed without having to notch the tank opening. Great tip from Rsnake showing this was possible! Check out his build video #14, around the 11 minute mark.
Bought a Dorman vent for the IRS breather hose end (see picture above). I don't like the idea of leaving it open.


P.S. My Gen 4X ECU just arrived. A quick glance and so far it looks identical to the Gen 3 (same/similar DBW accelerator pedal, O2 sensors, etc.).

[JimStone]

Great write up!

Now I understand your choice to abandon the SS fuel hard lines. Honestly, it's probably for the best. So much easier to deal with flex lines I'm learning.

[PNWTim]

For what it's worth, I used a combination of flex line and NiCop on my last build. There are many pros and cons to all sides of the story but installing PTFE/steel braid with AN fittings to run the length of the frame rails made a ton of sense to me. I know OEM is in lawsuit avoidance mode with hard lines but in these applications I truly feel either direction is more than adequate. If I recall correctly, I used all Fragola hose and a combination of Fragola and Summit fittings.

[460.465USMC]

As I was waiting for SS braided fuel line from Breeze, I turned to panel fitting. Yes, swarf is a new term to me. According to the ever trusty inter-webs, it's a term synonymous for the shavings, filings, chips, etc. that pile up from from drilling, grinding, machining, etc. That's pretty much what I've been doing over the last couple of weeks. Creating an abundance of swarf.


Wilwood pedal assembly: install was pretty straight forward per F5 instructions. I had to file down the brake and clutch switch mounting tabs, so they would lay flat. Top triangle bracket didn't quite square up to the diagonal cross member--see picture below. So, I added some spacers (washers) to shim the gap--see picture.
Top of footbox panels. It only took me 11 rivnuts for the left footbox cover panel. That is, before I asked myself why not simply tap the chassis for these 10-32 SS button heads? D'Oh! Forehead slap! That panel can feel like one-of-a-kind, because the rest of the panels are fastened without rivnuts. One more thing (translate as palm smacking forehead again!): I managed to locate one of the holes directly (and I mean directly) above one of the 1/4"-20 bolts used to secure the triangle pedal box bracket to the diagonal cross member--picture below. I can now say from experience SS bolts don't like to be tapped. The fix? Low profile 10-32 weld nut--see picture below. That first panel almost became a career project. Sheesh!
Engine bay panels: next up was making up four engine bay panels that sit forward of the footboxes (as others have done). I think it makes for a clean looking engine bay. Easy to pull off if access is needed by removing a few 10-32 screws. I also made a panel for the area above the transmission tunnel. A clean look IMHO.
Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator (40-75 PSI; 13129) and gauge (0-100 psi; 15633 - not yet installed). I mounted it in a location I've seen others use. Easy access for the fuel line connections. The socket head screws supplied for the mount use a 9/64" hex bit (i.e. allen wrench), not a common size.
At this point both footboxes are fitted for all their panels, as well as the above mentioned additional panels I made.


Left side footbox. Here you can see shims for the pedal assembly bracket, as well as the low profile weld nut to fix my mislocated hole. Attached the weld nut with JB Weld (what else?) after removing the powder coat for a good bond.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206415&d=1731624326


Here's a view looking down on the additional panels I made. These will be powder coated to match the chassis black, once I have my first batch ready. I dig the SS button head contrast against the black.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206412&d=1731624044


Aeromotive pressure regulator is mounted with two 10-32 screws. That particular chassis member isn't very thick for tapping. So, I ran the holes through both sides, and secured with nuts. The panel above the transmission tunnel is also visible.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206413&d=1731624044


The footboxes sure have a lot of gaps--here's just one example on the right side FB. No doubt a more professional install could minimize them, but they're still there. Wondering what others have done to close these gaps?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206414&d=1731624276


Moving on to the cockpit panels.

[burchfieldb]

I will likely use silicone on the hidden areas. I plan on 3D printing and painting a part to cover the hood latch bolt mount.

[Kbl7td]

Didn’t use the filler tube retainer on mine, that sh”t goes in like 6in, never coming out. I see people attempting hard lines on every build, why why why, completely unnecessary. Not ragging on you just hoping someone else reads this in the future too. AN flex is superior in every way. Stainless or nylon doesn’t matter.

[460.465USMC]

I will likely use silicone on the hidden areas. I plan on 3D printing and painting a part to cover the hood latch bolt mount.

Appreciate your input, Burchfieldb. I just don't remember this many gaps on my Roadster build, and I still have a loooong ways to go. 3D printing sounds like a sweet solution; however, I don't have the equipment or know-how. Someday...maybe.


Didn’t use the filler tube retainer on mine, that sh”t goes in like 6in, never coming out. I see people attempting hard lines on every build, why why why, completely unnecessary. Not ragging on you just hoping someone else reads this in the future too. AN flex is superior in every way. Stainless or nylon doesn’t matter.

Hello Kbl7td. No offense taken. I've checked in on your build and I'm a bit envious at your creativity and skill. Some really cool stuff going on there.

Stainless lines? Just a new challenge I wanted to try on this build, but it ain't going to happen. I used braided flex lines on my Roadster build. I agree: they are a solid setup, indeed. Appreciate you dropping by.

[PNWTim]

Chris - pretty good progress so far. I really like the engine compartment panels, I will probably go the same direction - did you use 6061 or 5052? Still haven't decided on a color for my panels but I guess I have a few months to figure that out. I really like the button heads that have the built in washer. The last car I built I used a significant number of button heads but hadn't seen those like a lot of F5 builders use. I spent a lot of time centering SS washers so they weren't off by 1/32nd :cool:.

Can't really help on the built in "venting" in the foot boxes but I am sure other builders will ring in on that subject. I would suspect it's important to to seal up every gap, regardless.

[460.465USMC]

Chris - pretty good progress so far. I really like the engine compartment panels, I will probably go the same direction - did you use 6061 or 5052? Still haven't decided on a color for my panels but I guess I have a few months to figure that out. I really like the button heads that have the built in washer. The last car I built I used a significant number of button heads but hadn't seen those like a lot of F5 builders use. I spent a lot of time centering SS washers so they weren't off by 1/32nd :cool:.

Can't really help on the built in "venting" in the foot boxes but I am sure other builders will ring in on that subject. I would suspect it's important to to seal up every gap, regardless.

I used 6061 because those are flat, no bends. And, I like the extra rigidity for those. However, I'm going to try to build a recessed trunk box next, so picked up some 5052 remnants from my local metal supplier, as I'll need to bend 90 degree corners.

On the Roadster, it was critical to seal any and all gaps in the footboxes to keep the engine heat out. I assume it's similar for the Coupe, but wow! A lot more gaps to deal with in the FBs.

[Namrups]

Filling any holes or gaps is a must, especially when you add the panels your adding. The engine bay heat is real. there are a number of ways to close off the holes/gaps. I used clear silicone, aluminum tape and a two part marine putty.

[Blitzboy54]

I really like the direction this build has taken. Namrups speaks the truth. I've been in his car, its warm






and loud

[460.465USMC]

Filling any holes or gaps is a must, especially when you add the panels your adding. The engine bay heat is real. there are a number of ways to close off the holes/gaps. I used clear silicone, aluminum tape and a two part marine putty.

Thanks, Scott. Kind of what I figured. And, it makes sense that the heat transfer from the engine bay would be similar to the Cobra. I'll be installing Thermo-Tec on my FB panels (and others), so that should double as insulation from the heat, and help close some of the gaps. For the exposed gaps, I'll have to address those one by one to see how I can close them. But not in a way that shouts DIY.


I really like the direction this build has taken. Namrups speaks the truth. I've been in his car, its warm






and loud

Thanks, Jesse. I think both of us are having a blast on our second builds. I will be going with the Gas-N pipes, so I hope those tame the exhaust noise a tich.

[John Ibele]

HOLY COW!! Not sure how I missed this; feel like I'm showing up to a party at 10 when the invite said 7. Congrats on the build, Chris, it looks like as much fun as the first. And you're doing a top notch job as usual. Strangely, our roadsters are still exactly the same color of gel coat red, so I'll skip the part where I give you a hard time about starting a second build before finishing your first. I'll continue to enjoy your updates, glad to see you dove in again!

[460.465USMC]

Hi John! Yeah, you can call a spade a spade. Needless to say, the build process is so rewarding for me. I fully accept I'm not following the proven path paved by so many great F5 builders before me.

Yes, I'm having a blast (again!). Given my limited garage space at our "new" place, and funding needed for a second build, I had to make a choice. However, it was smiles for me the whole time driving my Roadster in gel coat. Yep, I miss it!

I hope you stop by from time to time. Your observations and tips are high value to me. I look forward to seeing your beauty in its new "clothing".

[PNWTim]

I'm still pretty tickled to have received all of the suspension pieces with my delivery. Nice to be able to plug away at the front and rear suspension and keep the march toward roller stage moving forward.

A few issues to resolve:

PS rack: swapped out the pre-installed bushings with the Breeze aluminum offset centering bushings. Installed the PS rack and centered it within the frame. (I will center the steering wheel and equalize lock-to-lock later).
* The Breeze bushings are nice pieces, but I think they are probably a better fit for the Roadster application. Here's why: it appears the PS rack must be mounted in the top holes (race car height) in order to keep the Breeze adjustment slots accessible. Thankfully, this doesn't actually put the rack at the full upper height, because the offset bushing holes are not centered--see picture below. So, after all is said and done the rack is probably slightly higher than the lower street use holes. After trading emails with Mark at Breeze, I may set ride height about 1/4" lower. If I had to do it over, for the Coupe application I would probably save the money. The silver lining is it was easy to center the rack in the frame.
The 1/2"-20 grade 8 bolts to attach the UCA to the frame stopped a couple threads short of being flush with the nut (I normally like a 2+ threads sticking past the nut). And, they were not mechanical lock nuts as advertised. I emailed F5 last week, but still no word back. So, Ace to the rescue for grade 8, 1/2"-13 x 2" bolts. Already had extra 13 pitch nylon locknuts on-hand.
Upper ball joint castle nut threads too far down the shaft for reasonable cotter pin engagement. Added spacers to fix--see picture below.


What went well:

Front UCAs: pushed right into position with a spacer on the rear bushing. Primed the bushings with a bit of grease (4-5 pumps on my grease gun). I like to see it come through the flutes in the bushing before assembly. On a tip I saw in cv2065's build thread, I picked up the Lock N Lube attachment for my grease gun. As he said, no more swinging from the grease gun trying to get it to release. Boy, can I relate to that! Not expensive ($30), and worth every penny IMHO.
KONI single adjustable shocks: before assembly I made sure they were set for lowest (softest) setting as my starting point. This is the same setting I'm running on my Roadster. This can be checked/adjusted later, but easier now. Link to Koni's website with instructions and video: https://www.koni-na.com/en-US/NorthAmerica/Technology/Adjustment-Guides/
UCA upper ball joints: used my 18" Harbor Freight adjustable wrench to install. (I'll also use it on the IRS UCA nuts later on).
Some resistance on the second one, but overall no serious issues.
Swapped front UCA ball joint dust boots for Energy Suspension (5.13102G) per wisdom of the forum.
Swapped tie rod ends for Moog and the Moog dust boots for Energy Suspension (9.13101G).
POR-15. Love this stuff. My favorite coating. Takes some work, but well worth the effort. Coated the tie rod ends, inside face of front hubs, and rear sway bar brackets--see picture below. Also planning to coat the rear hubs, CV axles, and forward facing section of IRS differential.


First up was the PS rack install:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199124&d=1715105737


Here's a view of the Breeze offset bushing installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199122&d=1715105704


Not mentioned in the manual, and probably not necessary, but I like to prime the bushings with some grease before install.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199118&d=1715105704


POR-15: no I don't own their stock, but this stuff is awesome! Front hubs, Moog tie rods, and rear sway bar brackets.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199120&d=1715105704


I'm not using the tone ring (I think these are for ABS?), so I removed them. Ground a small slot into the ring with my Dremel, then tapped there and they split apart easily.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199119&d=1715105704


Added spacers to push the castle nut closer to the end to get cotter pin engagement. Had this same issue with my Roadster. Interestingly, extra spacers from my Wilwood brake kit fit perfectly in both cases.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199121&d=1715105704


View of passenger side together and ready for brake install. Planning to trim ~3/16" off the adjustment sleeve and stud of the rear UCA arms, to be sure I can dial in alignment specs later on.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199123&d=1715105737

Chris - great work. I have not ordered the Breeze spacers as yet so do you think I should pass? Sounds like with the new engineering in the frame mounts they're not necessary?

[460.465USMC]

Hi Tim. I think the two sets of mounts (upper for race height) have been available for quite some time, so no engineering change there that I'm aware of. The only engineering change I'm aware of relative to the steering rack mount is the new hold-down bracket F5 shipped out to builders who bought them within a certain time range as I noted above.

The Breeze offset spacers were on my list of new things to try. But as I mentioned above, I really don't see the advantage in the Coupe application. The one exception is centering the rack is a breeze (sorry--that pun slipped right out). :p

[PNWTim]

Hi Tim. I think the two sets of mounts (upper for race height) have been available for quite some time, so no engineering change there that I'm aware of. The only engineering change I'm aware of relative to the steering rack mount is the new hold-down bracket F5 shipped out to builders who bought them within a certain time range as I noted above.

The Breeze offset spacers were on my list of new things to try. But as I mentioned above, I really don't see the advantage in the Coupe application. The one exception is centering the rack is a breeze (sorry--that pun slipped right out). :p

Thanks for steering me in the right direction...:D. I was thinking more like details on the rack had changed but I think I'll see how it works without and if needed I can always order. I think he ships pretty quickly.

[460.465USMC]

Might as well continue flinging more swarf and chips. Seems a little more efficient to continue with panels since all of the tools are out, and the vacuum is nearby.

I'm wrapping up the trunk area, including a trunk box. Again, no trailblazing here, but the box was fun. I doubt the extra utility from the additional space is a good trade for the hours I have into it so far. But the fun factor is the ROI for me.

The rear hatch floor went in pretty straight forward. The forward piece is a powder-coat-scratching you-know-what to get in/out. I had the pleasure a number of times, as I took it out to nibble away clearances for welds around the upright chassis tubes. Touch up paint required.

Trunk Box

Materials: four sides from .040 5052 (better for bending). Bottom and lid from .063 6061 to add some rigidity. A couple 12" stainless piano hinges from McMaster-Carr (1582A216 - without holes (https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/3368/1582A216)).
Dimensions: per forum wisdom I also went with 23"(L) x 16"(W) x 5.5"(D). That does not include the 1" flange for the four sides. To my chagrin, I had another "Der De Der" moment. The bottom and top pieces should not be sized identically. The top should be a bit wider--just enough to extend past the sides and rear of the opening. Realization only came after I cut both pieces. To fix, I trimmed 1/2" off the length of the bottom.
Placement: I ended up about 7 1/8" from the left rearmost 1.5" cross tube; 13" from the right rearmost corner; 2 3/4" forward of the same cross tube. This provides the ample clearance from the raised section on the right hand side of the gas tank. The forward flange rides on top of the 3/4" crossbar, which by the way is not square in my case. I'm guessing it warped during the welding process. It added extra challenge to square the box.
Cut out perimeter of trunk box using aluminum disc on my cutoff wheel. To locate the hole, I held the box in position with clecos. This allowed me to trace the opening from underneath. (Removed a side panel, so with marker in hand I could trace the perimeter from below).
Bending boo boo: I hoped to bend all four sides (side panels) with my 30 inch brake. Despite my best intentions, I fell short. I feel pretty dumb, because it's so obvious now. To overcome my bending boo boo, it was all available clamps on-deck--see pix below. I should have made the long bends with the 30" brake first. Next, I should have made the short bends with a 6" hand brake. (Trip to Harbor Freight to buy the handheld seamer/brake tool recommended by Edwardb [$20]).
Tools: a tool setup I recently added to the arsenal is a portable bandsaw mounted to a Swag table. Works great for shorter cuts (up to ~6"). For the longer cuts, I'm using a jigsaw (or cutoff wheel). For the small detailed cuts (e.g. trunk box tubing cut outs) I'm using a Dremel. A few different hand files to smooth and straighten the edges. I can see where a proper bandsaw would be really nice for this metal work. Someday...maybe ($$$$!). Circle cutter attachment on the drill to cut out the curved ends of the Sender access hole.
Tube openings: again, despite careful measurements, a couple of my tube openings steadily grew larger as I returned to the bench time and again to whittle away material until the box fit as squarely as possible. I will make a couple patches to tighten-up the gaps.
Pump and Sender access holes: I like the idea of easy access to both, so cut out an oval hole in the bottom for the Sender. I made it an inch shorter in length (6") than the factory size (7"). Installed 10-32 rivnuts (6 ea) to secure the covers.
Lid: work in progress. Bought a couple 12" SS hinges to attach to the forward edge. Clearance around the leftmost diagonal will be a factor.


Bending boo-boo: this is what it took to make the long bend of the first side panel because I didn't anticipate it wouldn't lay flat on the brake due to the short side bends made first. Why didn't I foresee this? So obvious now, of course. Thankfully, that bend is hidden beneath the hatch floor--it isn't pretty. Wasn't a problem with the other side panel, because I picked up a small handheld brake.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208222&d=1735586489


Portable bandsaw mounted on a swag table. Has come in very handy for short cuts on panels, but also many other uses like shortening SS screws (which I seem to have to do a lot!).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208221&d=1735586400


Bottom view of the box. Ready for fitting around the diagonal cross tubes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208223&d=1735586489


And the trunk box finally located after much trimming. Will close a couple gaps next to the right diagonal with small patch panels.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208224&d=1735586489


View of the trunk box in position with hatch floor cut out. Rivet nuts used to secure access covers. Also, here are the handheld brake and circle cutter I used.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208227&d=1735586539


The 5.5" depth of the box gives about 2.5" of clearance from the lowest point on the tank. Plenty of clearance for the Sender wiring plug/harness, etc.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208226&d=1735586489


While I was in the area, drilled through the chassis tube to allow easy drop-in of the screw that anchors the fill tube bracket. Otherwise, the screw head is sandwiched between that tube and the lip of the tank.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208225&d=1735586489


Next up is installing the lid with a couple hinges. Then on to wrap-up the cockpit panels.

[PNWTim]

In the end, looks really good. Nothing like a few trials and tribulations to get there. Nice job on the access cutouts as well. I have to believe having that little extra storage space is pretty valuable. And great tip on the filler neck mod, I don't think I have seen that before so good to know.

Curious if you used the circle cutter with a handheld drill? I had a pretty bad experience several years ago with one of those (1/2" drive so a bit bigger) and after dusting myself off, looked at the packaging and it indicated "for stationary drill press only". I guess that was one of those "wisdom" moments.

[460.465USMC]

Curious if you used the circle cutter with a handheld drill? I had a pretty bad experience several years ago with one of those (1/2" drive so a bit bigger) and after dusting myself off, looked at the packaging and it indicated "for stationary drill press only". I guess that was one of those "wisdom" moments.

Hi Tim. Plenty of trials and tribulations going on over here. Courtesy of my small mind. So, the circle cutter. I used it back on my Roadster build in my drill press to drill out all the gauge holes in my .060 dash. I, too, noticed it said drill press only on the package. However, for the Sender holes, I used it in my 3/8" hand drill this go-round. Slow and steady. I'm not recommending this approach, and could see how things could go wrong in a hurry. Glad your story had a good ending.

[460.465USMC]

Trunk box lid: I bought my first set of SS piano hinges from the hardware store. They came with pre-drilled holes, but those holes weren't going to line up with the existing holes I already drilled into the 3/4" cross tube that runs left<-->right. So, back to McMaster for a set of 12" hinges with no holes (https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/3368/1582A216). The McMaster hinges cost more, but are thicker, and higher quality. Bonus.

I aligned the hinges to the existing holes in the 3/4" tube and (1) drilled the forward side holes. Then, (2) I pre-drilled the other side of the hinges. Then, (3) aligned the trunk box lid and drill through the hinge holes and the .063 6061 lid aluminum at the same time. The lid rotates back far enough that it will stay open on its own. Good. Of course, the hatch glass will need to be open for lid clearance. Trunk box is officially done: well, except for powder coating, Thermo-tec, and carpet.

Cockpit panels (and general observations)

Weld clearancing: my panels required a lot of clearancing (is that a word?) around welds. Seemingly, more than my Roadster build. But I want the panels to lay flat, so lots of grinding and filing around the weld joints. I used a Dremel (cutoff wheel and sanding drum), round carbide burr bit on the drill, and flat file, for most of it. See example of the rear cockpit wall below.
Panel bends: A number of the panels had at least one bend too shallow. Unfortunately, my 30" brake isn't an option because the panel must be flat to use it. So, it gets interesting to make the adjustment, e.g. steel bar stock and clamps as I noted in my last post. However, the 6" hand bender from HF proved helpful in this task, even on some of the longer bends because they only needed a few degrees of adjustment.
Angled cover - trans tunnel: this was an odd one to drill. The 1" square tube is rotated (30 degrees?), so it doesn't sit square for drilling. Visions of broken drill bits and powder coat scarring filled my head. Good news: the two layers of aluminum (cover and side panels) acted as a drill guide. So, I was able to drill holes at an angle. To my surprise it all worked out just fine.
More 1/8" clecos? Thought for sure I had plenty with one build under my belt. Nope. It must be because I'm leaving more panels mocked in place longer on this build. Bought another 50 from Aircraft Spruce ($0.99 ea). That puts me at 150 in total. I also have ten 3/16" clecos.
Drill: Except for the tight spaces that require an angle drill, my 25+ year old Black and Decker corded drill is the workhorse for panel installs. It gives better feedback when the bit is about to break through the metal. It's just a better drilling experience than my Milwaukee battery-powered drills. Yeah, dragging the cord around isn't as convenient, but for the hundreds of chassis holes in these builds, for me it's the right tool for the job. Don't forget the cutting fluid. I pour some into a cap, then dip the tip of the bit into the cap when starting each hole. For the thicker chassis tubes, I dip it a second time half way through.


Trunk box lid mocked in place (closed).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208916&d=1736619537


View with lid open. Can't really tell from this picture, but it rotates back far enough to stay open on its own.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208917&d=1736619537


Here's just one example of clearance needed for the rear cockpit panel to lay flat. Lots of trips back and forth to the bench to grind away a little at a time.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208912&d=1736619489


Drilling into these trans tunnel support tubes at an angle was interesting. It worked out just fine.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208911&d=1736619489


View of cockpit panels--forward looking. Trans tunnel top cover is not drilled yet. It's just sitting in place. Will wait until after the drivetrain is installed to see what I'm dealing with for shifter placement. Plus, there won't be a hole for the e-brake handle, as I have the Wilwood electric parking brake.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208914&d=1736619489


View of cockpit panels--looking rearward. I drilled the rear corner panels. I'm not completely sure if there's any harm in doing so now? I know they go in permanently after the body is on, but I'd rather not be drilling these panels at that point in the build.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208913&d=1736619489


Left side of cockpit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208915&d=1736619489

[460.465USMC]

Right side of cockpit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208918&d=1736623791

[PNWTim]

Chris - looks great. I have a couple of questions:

Curious why you used two 12" hinges instead of a 24"? I am sure you had a good reason, maybe just easier?
Did you use one of the spacing tools that are available out there to mark your holes or just a ruler?

I know exactly what you mean about the clearancing (and yes, we'll formally declare that a word). Even though I haven't really started my build yet I still poke around thinking about things and just today I was looking at how some of the panels fit against/around some of the welds and realized there would need to be adjustments made for them to fit flush and flat. Looks like you did it right. I currently only have 50 1/8" clecos so obviously will need to enhance that collection. Keep up the good work.

[460.465USMC]

Hi Tim. I believe the shipping on the 24" was quite a bit more. A single hinge would be a little easier to align everything, but it still needs to be cut (if your box is 23"). Since my hinges will likely get powder coated, and the topside will be covered in carpet, I opted to save a few shekels in shipping. If the hinge will be exposed on top, then the argument for a single hinge is stronger IMHO.

I don't have a spacing tool other than the one F5 supplies with the kit. These hinge holes I had already drilled through the hatch floor aluminum and into the 3/4" tube, and are spaced 3" apart. For those situations (and there are many) where 3" or 2" spacing doesn't come out even, I do the math for consistent spacing between the start and end point. Then dial that spacing into my micrometer, and mark the hole placements accordingly. No doubt a spacing tool would make that part much faster/easier.

[460.465USMC]

Still plugging away at panels. Moving to the front, I tackled the radiator duct, side panels, and radiator install. Again, nothing much new here, but really enjoyed the process.


Radiator sides: I did not drill the last 7 inches or so on the upper portions, because riveting in that area would introduce a pretty severe curve/bend. The duct back panel sits about 1/2" shy of the nose tubes on both sides.
Radiator and Breeze shroud fitment: I had to go back to the build manual (AKA Edwardb's build thread) to see how to solve the shroud fitment challenge, because it comes in contact at the bottom with the radiator duct panel. Wedel did a nice job of documenting this recently, so no need to go into any detail here. I'll just say I enjoyed making the strip that sandwiches the top of the shroud to the radiator channel. In fact, I did it twice. The first one was too narrow, about 5/8" tall. The second was much better at 1".
Radiator top mount bracket: the F5 manual threw me for a bit with the following: "Position the top mount bracket so that the small tab sticking up is on the rearward side of the bracket". I wondered if maybe my bracket was bent backwards, or was I just experiencing a low IQ moment? So, I checked out some other builders for sanity. Sure enough the tab goes on the forward edge. I don't see any other way to mount it.
Spacers: Like JimStone, I had to make a couple spacers to fill in the space between the bracket and the 1" nose tubes. Thankfully, I had some stock .020 aluminum bar on-hand. My portable bandsaw on the Swag table made quick work of cutting out the spacers. Man, that setup is handy.


Radiator duct and side panels drilled. Wow, that back panel takes a lot of holes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209313&d=1737234912


This is the solution from Edwardb which sandwiches the Breeze shroud on the top (rear) channel of the radiator. I used a couple washers to create a space of about .07 inches. So, the shroud hangs on the top channel of the radiator, and is secured on the bottom channel with a couple screws (Breeze supplies the required hardware with the shroud). I also used the Breeze shroud on my Roadster build and liked it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209314&d=1737234912


These are spacers to fill the gap between the nose tube and the radiator top mount bracket. Made from some scrap .020 aluminum bar I had on hand.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209315&d=1737234912


Spacer installed. Thanks to JimStone for inspiring this spacer idea!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209317&d=1737234912


And, here's everything mocked in place. Will be taking off soon and adding to the pile of panels for powder coating.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209316&d=1737234912


I watched the F5 unveiling of the new MK5 this morning. Some really nice changes/upgrades. Great to see them forge ahead with continuous improvement.

[PNWTim]

More good progress Chris. I am trying to absorb all the details of the radiator, shroud and panel mounting as it seems a bit fiddly.

"I had to go back to the build manual (AKA Edwardb's build thread) to see how to solve the shroud fitment challenge" Isn't that the truth.

[460.465USMC]

Finally! Time to work on something other than panels. Well, sort of. I tackled the brake and clutch reservoirs. Separate reservoirs for front and rear brakes, and one for hydraulic clutch. And, yes, a panel was involved.

Using a piece of 1.5" x 1/8" thick angle aluminum, I made a mounting bracket for the reservoirs. I personally like the F5 reservoirs, but they don't fit where I wanted to install them (forward of the DS footbox). As other builders have found, some modification to the reservoir brackets are necessary. More on that in a minute.

The 1.5" angle aluminum had to be trimmed to match the reservoir brackets. I used my portable bandsaw setup (again!), and was able to roughly cut out the circular shape of the brackets. Then, clean up with the sander. How convenient it was to find my sander is exactly the right size. Nice. I'll hit the easy button when I can.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209842&d=1738287111


I used 10-32 flat head screws to attach the reservoir brackets to the angled aluminum after lopping off the bracket ears. Bandsaw made quick work of the lopping. Here's a view of the bottom with the ears removed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209844&d=1738287111


Top view.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209843&d=1738287111


Unfortunately, my thread tap was too long to tap from the inboard side of the chassis tube. So, I used a couple 5/16" button head screws all the way through the 1.5" chassis tube to mount the bracket assembly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209845&d=1738287111


Here's where the panel part comes in. I followed Wedel's method to locate the holes: cut 2.5" hole plug out of wood and place in reservoir bracket. Perfectly centers the hole saw in the aluminum panel. Thanks, Wedel!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209846&d=1738287111


I think it was Rsnake's build videos where I first saw this setup. It makes for a clean install IMHO, not to mention easy access to check fluid levels. Thanks to him and the forum for the inspiration and help.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209847&d=1738287266

[Smiley]

Sweet, that looks very nice.

[Dmac800]

Great looking setup!

[PNWTim]

Nicely done Chris. I feel fortunate to be several months behind you. I get to review all these great modifications and integrate with my build, so thanks in advance!

[TwinFins]

Agreed! I appreciate the level of detail you are providing for us.

If you could just make another one of those brackets and ship it to me that would be great lol

[460.465USMC]

Sweet, that looks very nice.

A simple, clean approach IMHO. Kudos to the creative builder (Rsnake?) who first did it.


Great looking setup!

Thanks!


Nicely done Chris. I feel fortunate to be several months behind you. I get to review all these great modifications and integrate with my build, so thanks in advance!

All the great ideas and skilled builders on this forum...I can't thank them enough.


Agreed! I appreciate the level of detail you are providing for us.

If you could just make another one of those brackets and ship it to me that would be great lol

Thanks, guys. These "little" detours take me a lot of time, but it's enjoyable, and that's what it's all about for me. Learning new things, and trying to duplicate a few of the great ideas I see here on the forum. This is one of the few detours that didn't require much coin, just my time.

TwinFins: I'm hoping to finish the Coupe before my grandkids are driving. At my turtleee build pace, that's in question. :p

[Blitzboy54]

That's a really sharp arrangement. Nice work

[460.465USMC]

True confession: pretty sure I'm subconsciously avoiding the brake lines. Those were a huge challenge for me on my last build. My excuse is I wanted to check out the new Gen 4 oil pickup design from Moroso. So, what's another week or two, right?

I bought the Moroso oil pan (#20570) and oil pickup (#24580) from Forte. I was anxious to see the fitment, as the F5 instructions don't mention the need for the new oil pickup (last time I checked, anyway). Here's a view of the stock oil pickup (top) compared to the new lower profile Gen 4 Moroso pickup (bottom):

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210901&d=1740615688


I was on pins and needles as I removed and installed the small flange head bolts that secure the neck of the oil pickup. I shuttered to think of dropping one down into the motor, and trying to fish it out. Thankfully, no dropped bolts! Here's a view of the oil pickup installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210902&d=1740615688


Then, installed the oil pan using Moroso stud kit (#38554). Not necessary, but didn't want to reuse the Ford factory fasteners, so had to buy some fasteners anyway. The Moroso oil pan provides about three additional inches of clearance over the Ford OEM pan (as measured by yours truly).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210903&d=1740615688


From there I tackled the alternator and KRC power steering pump and pulley. The alternator install was straight forward. The KRC kit was something I bought with my kit from F5, before I knew Ford stopped Gen 3 Coyote production. Good news, however; the KRC pump fits the Gen 4, but with one exception. The upper boss on the block sticks out further, so the KRC provided spacer was too long--see bottom spacer in picture below. The gap between the boss and the KRC bracket on Gen 4 is 16.1 mm, but the KRC spacer is 27.9 mm (1.1 inch). Thankfully, adjusting for the smaller gap was solved without issue.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210905&d=1740615738


While it was easy to access, I swapped the KRC valve for a reduced flow valve (#4, KRC 25304). This reduces the stock flow of 2.5 GPM to 1.05 GPM. I did this on my Roadster and liked the feel better, as the 2.5 GPM provides too much assist IMHO. The #4 is stamped on the valve and visible in the picture below. (The default valve that comes in the pump is not stamped).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210906&d=1740615738


Here's a front view with all the above installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210904&d=1740615688


I like to have a clock as part of my gauge set, so I ordered one from Speed Hut. Same diameter as the other four smaller gauges. I was pleasantly surprised to find out the hands illuminate, unlike the clock that comes with the Roadster gauge set. Bonus! Top three gauges are powered up with backlight and illuminated needles in the photo below.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210909&d=1740621142

I guess this means I'm running out of excuses to start the brake lines.

[PNWTim]

Chris - good work. Glad to know the KRC kit fits as I ordered mine from FF as well. I'm wondering if mine will have a corrected spacer since Gen 3's are somewhat not a thing for now? I am curious, your pictures showing the correct height spacer - is that the spacer cut down or is it something else?

[TwinFins]

Please keep the Gen4 updates coming! Ill be ordering mine plus T56 and all other details early next week. For now Im getting my brake lines done :)

[460.465USMC]

Chris - good work. Glad to know the KRC kit fits as I ordered mine from FF as well. I'm wondering if mine will have a corrected spacer since Gen 3's are somewhat not a thing for now? I am curious, your pictures showing the correct height spacer - is that the spacer cut down or is it something else?

Thanks, Tim. For whatever reason I decided to use some spacers I had on hand (shown in jaws of micrometer) instead of cutting down the supplied KRC spacer. If KRC hasn't adjusted their spacer for the Gen 4, then you at least know it will still fit with just a little spacer modification.


Please keep the Gen4 updates coming! Ill be ordering mine plus T56 and all other details early next week. For now Im getting my brake lines done :)

Brake lines, you say? I'll trade you a custom triple reservoir mount for brake lines. :p

[460.465USMC]

There was Frodo Baggins v. Gollum. David versus Goliath. Daniel-san v. Cobra Kai. And more recently, a new triumphal entry into the Underdog Hall of Fame: Chris versus Coupe brake lines.

Bending and routing the brake lines was a challenge in my first build. I thought this time might be easier: nope. It’s the three dimensional aspect that proves difficult for my below average IQ: how do I bend this tube up, over, and out thisaway all at the same time? Uff-da! Well, nothing to do but move forward one baby-step at a time. “Eat the frog” as the saying goes.

It’s great to be back on the build after 2+ months working on house projects.

Some observations:


Brake line kit: I picked up an Earl’s Performance brake line kit from Summit. It came with 25’ of coiled Ni-Copp, and enough tube nuts for five lines: Perfect. Even had several feet left over, despite the 14” rear line redo, and the 18” I used to practice making flares.
Tube cutting: Best cutting method for me was a tubing cutter, HF for <$7. It gave me pretty consistent cuts that were reasonably flush. Then, touch them up with a flat file to make them as square as possible. Don’t rush this step. Time spent here pays off at the next step, flaring.
Flaring:I bought the forum-recommended Eastwood tool (25304). Not cheap, but it didn’t disappoint. Quality. Thankfully, it was more straightforward to make the flares than I had built-up in my mind. No doubt Ni-Copp helped in that regard. I made at least a dozen practice flares to get the hang of it. Eastwood has a helpful video (https://youtu.be/9yZYIG9Dmak?si=Us0z0cv1afMR7Dbs). Oh, and I used a dab of brake fluid on the end of the tube as a lubrication aid for the flaring tool.
Templates: I used the kit supplied brake lines to make templates for the Ni-Copp lines (bend, straighten, rebend, straighten again…!). Boy, did I get my money’s worth out of those kit lines. Almost criminal.
Clamps: Allstar Perf clamps (ALL18320) used in the engine bay. They’re a bit easier on the eyes than the cushion clamps. I used a total of 8 ($26 for two packs of four).
Lesson learned: I made the last brake line 5/16” short. D’oh! I underestimated how much length is "consumed" during the flaring process: 3/16” per flare, or 3/8" per line. Now I know.


A big Thank You to the forum (as usual) for documenting line routing, and providing great examples to aspire to, especially Edwardb!

Here are the tools I used. Besides the Eastwood flaring tool and HF tubing cutter, the other tool I bought for this project is the Ridgid 3/16” bender (36117). Quality piece.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214709&d=1749243208


Front lines

No reason for me to reinvent the wheel on brake line routing, so the front comes out of the MC and forward along the bottom of the 1.5" chassis tube until it exits the FB in the corner.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214711&d=1749243208


Then continues along the same 1.5" chassis tube, and down to the 3-way tee (view from underneath). The little panel I made for brake hose management is visible in the upper left--close-up picture below.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214713&d=1749243208


Opened a hole in the panel and mounted the hard-to-flex-line adapter to the outside of the 1.5" upright. This is the first line I made, so not sure why I made the loop so large coming out of the tee.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214714&d=1749243246


Then across and over to the passenger side. You can see the Allstar clamps I mentioned above.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214715&d=1749243246


Rear Lines

Out of the inboard MC, then through a gradual bend to the upper corner of the forwardmost panel on the side of the transmission tunnel. Another tip from Edwardb I copied is to put a couple layers of dual wall heat shrink where the lines exit the panels (e.g. front of DS FB and into the tunnel). Just adds a layer of protection for peace of mind.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214724&d=1749256245


Then follows underneath and along the left side of the transmission tunnel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214725&d=1749256245

[460.465USMC]

Then down the rest of the transmission tunnel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214726&d=1749256245


Terminating at the rear tee, just above the differential. The tee sits above the 1" cross tube with ample clearance, locked in place with the nearby cushion clamps. The left rear line visible here is the one I had to redo, as my first attempt was 5/16" short.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214716&d=1749243384


I made this oddly shaped little panel piece to fit over the clutch hole to manage the rubber brake hoses as they exit the FB. It has the dual purpose to also fill in a number of gaps between the panel and the chassis tubes in that area. I want those FBs sealed up tighter than…well, you know.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214710&d=1749243208


On an unrelated topic, I pulled a couple of the kit supplied 1/8" rivets. They’re more donut shaped than dome shaped, and the sheen is quite dull (moreso than the picture lets on). I don’t remember the kit supplied rivets being this unsightly on my Roadster build. So, I’ll use the SS rivets where visible, e.g. engine bay panels, and limit the kit supplied rivets where they’re not seen.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214712&d=1749243208


I’d really prefer to bleed the brakes now, but going to wait until I can permanently install the front FB panel, otherwise I’d have to disconnect the hoses. So, it will be a while…bummer.

[460.465USMC]

As I mentioned previously, after my SS hardline fiasco I raised the white flag and changed to SS braided flex lines. Membership in the prestigious SS hard lines club will have to wait. :p

I ordered 3/8" stainless braided PFTE fuel lines and connectors from Breeze, one of my favorite F5 vendors. (I went to the previous F5 open house three years ago, and had the chance to meet Mark. Heck of a nice guy. He showed me his Roadster over a cup of coffee, and we talked shop for a couple hours).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215002&d=1749824316


Opting for the well documented route down the driver’s side of the trans tunnel, I stacked the lines vertically beneath the rear brake line. They're anchored by cushion clamps and ¼-20 flat head screws. I guess I like knowing I can remove these if needed. I imagine the tunnel will be too crowded to drill out rivets once the T-56 is in place. Not that I want to find out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215003&d=1749824316


I tapped the Trickflow filter bracket for a couple cushion clamps to keep the return line parallel as it transitions out of the trans tunnel, and makes the bend toward the gas tank.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215001&d=1749824316


For whatever reason, the braided line connectors went on with a lot less drama compared to my last build. The SS strands are stiff, and like to poke holes in your fingers. Not that I personally tested that theory. Hopefully, the lines will be leak free, because I can’t find my Fragola test kit to verify. Must have misplaced it during the move.

I have a couple 7/16” ID line separator clamps on the way from Summit, but otherwise I’m calling the fuel lines done.

Onward and forward. Thinking of the steering shaft and Coyote accelerator pedal next.

[gbranham]

Looking good! I can send you my Fragola Test kit of you want to use it. PM me, and I'll get it sent out to ya.

Greg

[PNWTim]

Looks good Chris. I went back and forth in my head about using flex line vs. hard line in my coupe. I used all flex in my prior build and really enjoyed working with it but decided to do something a little different with this one. Going to attempt stainless through the tunnel and went with Earls Vaporguard and oetiker clamps by the tank. I too have the Fragola pressure tester for -6, let me know if you want to borrow it.

[460.465USMC]

Looking good! I can send you my Fragola Test kit of you want to use it. PM me, and I'll get it sent out to ya.

Greg

Thanks, Greg! Really appreciate the offer to borrow, but think I'll make another round through the garage first to see where else I may have hidden it from myself.

P.S. looks like a belated congrats are in order. Reading your signature block, I see you fired up that bad boy 427W. That's got to feel really good.


Looks good Chris. I went back and forth in my head about using flex line vs. hard line in my coupe. I used all flex in my prior build and really enjoyed working with it but decided to do something a little different with this one. Going to attempt stainless through the tunnel and went with Earls Vaporguard and oetiker clamps by the tank. I too have the Fragola pressure tester for -6, let me know if you want to borrow it.

Appreciate it, Tim. If I had to do it over, I would have either kept the Eastwood line straightener (ditched the DIY straightener), or ordered straight sticks of tube as I've seen others do. I look forward to following along as you enter the SS hard line club. :D

[burchfieldb]

Looking good! I feel your pain on the hard lines. That was a long battle for me. Bought and tried lots of different flaring tools before giving in and going to sleeves and tube nuts.

[460.465USMC]

Looking good! I feel your pain on the hard lines. That was a long battle for me. Bought and tried lots of different flaring tools before giving in and going to sleeves and tube nuts.

Thanks, Brent! That sounds like a great alternative as well. I bet it looks clean.

[burchfieldb]

Thanks, Brent! That sounds like a great alternative as well. I bet it looks clean.

It is super easy to do since you only have to make one flare after sliding the tube nut and sleeve on.

[PNWTim]

Looking good! I feel your pain on the hard lines. That was a long battle for me. Bought and tried lots of different flaring tools before giving in and going to sleeves and tube nuts.

Sleeves and tube nuts with 37 degree AN flares is the only way to go with fuel lines. There are also tube nut sleeves that don't even require a flare. They work great:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-2200075b

They both rely on either a flared face or bushing but they certainly simplify the hardline to AN dilemma.

[460.465USMC]

I'm working on the Coyote DBW pedal, and trying to solve the clearance issues. I have the pedal in the F5 Coyote factory holes in the pedal mount. I can make this work if I shave off a bit more of the pedal housing (top left next to the steering shaft). However, if I remove the spacers between the steering pillow block and the mount, I gain useful clearance between the steering shaft and the DBW connector, and at the top of the pedal housing. Anybody know the purpose of these spacers? I rotated the steering wheel lock to lock. No issues. It does increase the steering shaft angle to the first u-joint--is that an issue?

Second question: any reason the 5/16" screws can't be fed top down, instead of bottom up like manual shows? Is there something in the way later in the build that would block removal of these screws if they're in the top down orientation?

Picture with spacers removed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215359&d=1750550812

[PNWTim]

I was of the the opinion the spacers dropped the wheel but if they do something else I don't know what it is. I put my bolts in from the top just because I am a believer in gravity. Even if they conflict with something down the road the pillow block drops so it doesn't really matter as far as I can tell.

[460.465USMC]

Agreed on both counts, Tim. If that's all the spacers do, I'm inclined to leave them out. A little extra space between the DBW pedal and steering shaft, especially the connector, is not a bad thing, though I'm pretty sure I can make it work either way.

[460.465USMC]

Update on the pillow block spacers: Dan at F5 confirmed the purpose of the spacers is just for steering wheel position (lowers it about 1/2"). So, I will leave it as is (spacers removed) for now, and make the final determination after I purchase and install my seats.

[460.465USMC]

Moving on to the steering shaft, it was a pretty low key experience. No complaints here. The flange bearing fits nicely on the front side of the FB. And, thankfully, the upper shaft slid into the larger DD middle shaft without protest. Phew! (Last time it was an all-out battle, a very tight fit). I can slide them together by hand. A good thing. Wavy washers will go in later. My understanding is (per forum wisdom) the upper shaft is designed to collapse into the DD middle shaft in case of an accident.

My punishment for hitting the Easy button with the steering shaft? The steering wheel boss was an ornery cuss. It would not slide over the upper shaft. So, I spent about 30 minutes slugging it out. A Scotch-brite pad smoothed it to the point the boss will now slide on by hand.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215522&d=1750948206


Coyote DBW
I still find it unnerving to cut up a brand new piece of OEM hardware ($$$$). But this knuckledragger was committed to adapting the Russ Thompson pedal to match the Wilwood pedals. The Coyote OEM pedal will function just fine, but I'm glad to honor Russ with this key piece on my build.

By the time I was done trimming with the portable bandsaw, the bottom of the pedal was pretty much neutered. Ouch!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215523&d=1750948266


Here you can see the extent to which the pedal has been trimmed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215525&d=1750948266


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215524&d=1750948266


Coyote builders discover clearance is at a premium between the DBW assembly and the steering shaft/DBW connector. I notched the upper left corner of the plastic pedal housing for steering shaft clearance. And, with the pillow block spacers removed (7/16”) the DBW connector clears the shaft by > 3/16”. Final determination of the spacers will have to wait until later in the build once the seats are installed. I need to determine if the elevated steering wheel height works for me. Worst case is I may need to shave another 1/32“ to 1/16” off the corner of the housing.

Tight clearances at the red arrows.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215526&d=1750948266


I picked up the Russ Thompson pedal from Breeze. It wasn't designed for the Coyote DBW pedal, but I was able to adapt it with some careful trimming. I fastened with 10-32 flathead screws and lock nuts. The backing plate is made from .090 aluminum to help spread the clamping force.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215527&d=1750948266


Almost like it was meant to be there.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215528&d=1750948288


Up next is preliminary fitment of the HVAC pieces in the right FB. I'd like to get my panels out to the powder coater.

[PNWTim]

Looks good Chris. I didn't even know Russ had a pedal. I just purchased another Wilwood pad from Summit and drilled and tapped it into the plastic. I did cut about 1 1/2" off of the lower arm though. I also had to notch the upper corner of the pedal to completely clear the steering shaft. I am also debating clearancing the brake pedal arm with a small half moon where it passes by the upper pedal bolt. Mine is really close, maybe a 1/16th away.

[460.465USMC]

Thanks, Tim. Yeah, I bought the pedal from Breeze last October. Looks like he still offers it ($34): 70794 Gas Pedal Pad Conversion Kit, Russ Thompson to Wilwood Style (https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/gas-pedal-pad-conversion-kit-russ-thompson-to-wilwood-style/).

Agreed, the brake pedal arm comes very close to the corner of the pedal housing/pedal mount. I think I'm going to let mine ride for now, and will address later once the pedal position is set, and the brakes are bled.

[460.465USMC]

I think the last thing I should do before sending off the panels for powder coating is the evaporator and control valve mock-up. Lots of holes (large ones at that) in the panels for fitment.

Following F5's placement recommend, and checking in on a few other builds, I anchored the L-brackets to the chassis tubes with 10-32 SS round heads. (What would I do without an angle drill?). However, I thought I could improve upon how those brackets fasten to the evaporator housing. So, I attached 10-32 weld nuts (McMaster: 98001A125) to the inside of the housing with J-B Weld. (These are multi-use; another helpful forum idea--this one from Edwardb).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215998&d=1751906357


View of its placement looking from the cockpit. You can also see the bead of silicone around the gap where the fan attaches. I could see daylight through there! Appreciate the recent reminder from PNWTim on sealing up all of the cracks around the housing--there are many! Easy to miss this in the instructions.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216001&d=1751906357


To locate the heater bulkhead holes, I used a piece of scrap 3/8" SS tubing to extend the trajectory of the upper heater fitting to the FB panel. (I knew that tubing would eventually come in handy!). Then I made a slight indent with my center punch, enough to see it on the outside of the panel to locate where to drill. I used 1 11/16” center-to-center hole template out of a cereal box to locate the bottom hole. Instead of a hole saw, I used a step bit to open it up to 7/8". A word of caution: the lower 1 1/8" nut is close to the diagonal chassis member--see below. Locating the bulkhead even slightly more inward and it wouldn't have cleared.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215999&d=1751906357


Another word of caution: the instructions don't mention the hole spacing is narrower for the AC bulkhead connections (#10, #6). They are not 1 11/16” apart like the dual #10 heater bulkhead spacing. The #6 hole center is about 1/8" closer. My eye told me they were a little closer together than the other bulkhead fitting…I should have pursued that further. Perhaps that bulkhead connector changed since the instructions were written? Oh, well. It was an easy fix with a deburring bit at the end of my angle drill to elongate the smaller hole (#6). It won’t be visible behind the bulkhead flange, but it was a bit annoying nonetheless. I should have caught it. Here's what it looked like before I "fixed" the #6 hole. Moving on.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216000&d=1751906357


View of both bulkheads from the front.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216003&d=1751906396


I was curious how the exit ports on the evaporator were positioned at the rear of the PSFB. I don't think I've seen a view. FWIW, here's a view.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216002&d=1751906396


I will eventually pick up the Mastercool 71550 crimper, so I can make my own hoses. It will be a low use tool, but I would have to pay someone else to make up the hoses anyway. Plus, if I ever need to replace/repair, I can do it myself.

Whoops! Back when I was in panel fitting mode, I drilled the side access panel for rivets before realizing screws would make it more accessible. Not sure what I’m going to do on that one. Going to let it percolate for a while.

I mounted the control value, Coyote power distribution block (PDB), and the 250A mega fuse on top of the RH FB. I also decided I would mount the PCM horizontally, just forward of the control value. This is a very similar position to where I located it on my MK4 build, so I'm confident all of the harness legs will reach where they need to go. I'll just need to make a basic bracket for it. Other builders have had success with it there as well, so I feel pretty good about that location.

In this arrangement, I'm expecting (hoping) the Specialty wiper control box thingy will snuggle up against the extreme outboard section of the firewall, and also clear behind where I located the PDB (just the PDB bracket is visible in the picture).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215997&d=1751906357

[460.465USMC]

To close out the HVAC system fitment for now, the last item I installed was the compressor. It was straight forward, except for the belt. When the F5 instructions say to put the AC belt behind the crank pulley, they mean it. That was the only way the belt would go on. Once I got that in my head, success came pretty quickly. I managed to have one rib of the belt over the edge of the compressor pully, but turning the engine over a revolution or so, I was able to coax it over and down so all grooves were engaged.

Once I had it looking like this, the belt went on pretty well. The F5 instructions say the belt is designed to stretch during this process, then pull back into its original length once in place.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216004&d=1751906396


I think the front of the motor is full now. No more pulleys/accessories to add.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216005&d=1751906396

[PNWTim]

Chris - nice progress! Interestingly enough, I did not seal up the evaporator case where you did but rather at the front (rear?) around the flanged vent piece. I will need to take a look at sealing up the area you show as well so thanks for sharing.

The hose fittings are definitely a challenge and a bit of a head scratcher. Depending on where you finalize the evaporator can have significant impact on what trajectory the hoses exit and want to run. I need to finalize my location for the PDB and your mount is definitely in the mix. Also looking at just below that location on the inboard footbox but having no previous experience I need to go with what others have done. Will you be mounting your ECM behind the engine or in front of the PS equipment on the deck?

[460.465USMC]

Thanks, Tim. I sealed around the flanged vent piece as well, so hopefully will get as much efficiency from the evaporator unit as possible. The mounting position is finalized, so I'll need to make the hose lengths to match. I've never made AC hoses before, so it will be a learning curve, no doubt.

You got it right: the PCM is going in front of the heater control valve, forward of the PS FB, and will sit horizontally. As I mentioned above, it's very close to where I mounted it on my Coyote Gen 3 Roadster, so I'm pretty confident all of the various harness/legs will reach their destinations. Plus I see MSummers and Edwardb used that location as well. I don't want it tucked behind the motor below the firewall. I know others have put it there, including F5. Just my personal preference. The engine bay will be very busy with the Coyote (some would say unsightly), so I don't have a reason to hide it.

[lewma]

Unfortunately I didn't seal anything. It blows cold air, but not as much as my daily driver.

[460.465USMC]

That seems to be the consensus from what I've read: the AC is a must-have, but dress lightly because it won't have you grabbing for a long sleeve shirt. I don't know if the silicone will make much difference, but figured this is the time to do it.

[460.465USMC]

Time for a new tool. I bought a big box store center punch (General Tools) part way through my MK4 build. The punching action became unreliable before I completed that build. I then bought another big box punch (Husky), and it didn’t last any longer. So, it’s time to try something new. This is the adjustable Starrett punch (18-C). It’s about $15 more. The difference in quality and construction is obvious just holding it in my hand. Wow! Hoping this is the last one I need to buy.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216927&d=1753728843


Battery: I planned to use the kit supplied battery tray and mount. However, when I routed my front brake line east/west along the 1.5” chassis tube, I didn’t realize the F5 battery tray mounts to that same chassis tube. There’s not enough real estate on that chassis tube to drill for the mounting screws as well. So, I fell down the money hole (again). I took a page out of Edwardb’s playbook and went with the Odyssey PC-925 (ODS-AGM28). It's a sealed, absorbed glass matt battery. Mine is the model L (for positive on Left post). I didn’t set out to get the L model, but I think it will work just fine. Oh, and it didn’t come with standard battery posts, so what’s another $30 to get the posts, right? Obviously, there are benefits. Besides the advertised longevity it occupies a much smaller footprint. And, it’s a few pounds lighter. I copied Edwardb again on the battery mount, going with the Artec OY9251 model. Made from 10 ga steel. A quality mount indeed. It will be powder coated.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216934&d=1753731979


The significantly smaller footprint allows for mounting forward of the 1.5" chassis tube where my front brake line runs.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216935&d=1753731979


New countersink holes required. I'm happy to report these went much better than the NRG holes below. Phew!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216936&d=1753731979


A view of final fitment. Mount is now out for powder coating.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216937&d=1753731979


NRG quick release: Since my panels are out for powder coating, I tackled the NRG quick release (SRK-400BK). Seems like a good idea given all the comments I’ve read about the ingress/egress challenge with the Coupe. Plus, it’s [supposed to be] a fun side excursion.

The NRG quick release mod with the Russ Thompson turn signal has been thoroughly documented. I pointed to the write-ups I found especially helpful last time. (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?36627-460-465USMC-s-MK4-Build-9890-Gel-Red-is-Rad-Blue-is-Better!&p=512052&viewfull=1#post512052) This time around was similar, but actually easier.

Easier? Yah, it should be, but it wasn't. However, it’s done. It’s functional. It’s funny: looking back at my comment after doing this on my MK4 build (2.5 years ago) I said, Precision is clearly in the "Needs Improvement" section of my shop report card. Boy, does that statement still ring true today!

Drilling the holes for the steering wheel side of the adapter should have been pretty straight forward. I mean, it’s my second time doing it, right! Let’s just say the clock in my garage is eternally stuck at O’Amateur hour. I managed to skew most of the holes in the steering wheel, so they didn’t align with the NRG ring. Ugh! I had to oblong most of them with a deburring bit on my Dremel. Which of course made it almost impossible to drill the countersink holes concentrically. I was alone in my garage, but dang, it was still embarrassing! And frustrating. Sheesh! Thankfully, most all of my incompetent drilling will be covered by the center cap and F5 logo. Licking my wounds and moving on. Rant over.

The NRG is a slick unit. However, it does take some work to adapt it to the hub. It has the outer, finished black ring with the release button. And, two inner halves. Each half must be trimmed down to fit with our hub (bottom left). Here's a view of the hub (pre-drilled from i.e.427), the ring that attaches to the hub (lower right), and my hack-job on the steering wheel. The yellow dots on the hub and NRG ring (lower right) are clocked to match the top center hole on the steering wheel. This clocking provides great spacing between the factory holes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216928&d=1753729589


Backside view of the steering wheel with the NRG half that attaches to the wheel. You'll have to pick up M5-0.8 x 14 mm flathead screws (6 ea), and of course a countersink bit with the same angle to match the screw head angle.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216929&d=1753729589

[460.465USMC]

Top down view to show where the Open <--> Close labeling should end up, as well as the push button to release the wheel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216930&d=1753729589


This is the i.e.427 turn signal. I won't be installing it for a while. First impression is I like the positive switch action of the turn signal. It provides a crisp click-in, and auto-cancels. The black stalk will be swapped out for the chrome one below. The stalk has a switch when pulled toward the driver. I'm thinking of using that for the horn, and the side switch for high beams. Not sure yet, and have plenty of time to finalize those plans.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216931&d=1753729589

Good news: my panels are back from powder coat, so time for lots of riveting and Thermo-Tec.

[PNWTim]

Nice update, as always. Quick question - did you drill all the way through the frame members and through bolt the battery holder or use nutserts? I have the exact same setup and am thinking I will just through bolt rather than trying to drag some 1/4" or 5/16" nutserts. The holes for those are pretty large but still on the fence. This is why my build goes so quickly because I mull these things over for a week or three.

[460.465USMC]

Hi Tim. I used 10-32 nutserts, as I'm trying to minimize anything below the chassis tubes on the bottom for clearance purposes. I know F5 calls for 1/4" fasteners for their battery tray, so I guess I went a little wimpy on this one.

[JimStone]

I know F5 calls for 1/4" fasteners for their battery tray, so I guess I went a little wimpy on this one.

You'd have to put some serious forces on it to break four 10-32 screws, like brick wall deceleration forces. I think you'd have a lot more to worry about if that happened :eek:


Good progress! Enjoying the updates

[460.465USMC]

I'm looking for some advice on what kind of battery charger I can use for the Odyssey AGM battery. I have a Battery Tender charger. It says it's a "smart" charger compared to a trickle charger, and is compatible with AGM. I supposed that should be a good enough recommendation, but the Odyssey battery itself mentions minimum 2.7A charging rate. But my charger only outputs 1.25A. Am I okay to use it? I'd rather not have to buy another charger unless necessary.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217036&d=1753891749



Specifications.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217037&d=1753892039

[8secDuster]

This is the i.e.427 turn signal. I won't be installing it for a while. First impression is I like the positive switch action of the turn signal. It provides a crisp click-in, and auto-cancels. The black stalk will be swapped out for the chrome one below. The stalk has a switch when pulled toward the driver. I'm thinking of using that for the horn, and the side switch for high beams. Not sure yet, and have plenty of time to finalize those plans.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216931&d=1753729589

Hey Chris,
That's how I wired mine. The stalks pull back feature as my horn. And the side pull switch, I painted red and used it as my 4-Way switch.
217040


https://vimeo.com/1103759951?fl=pl&fe=sh

[PNWTim]

I guess you learn something new everyday. I would not have thought that a battery manufacturer would require a minimum amperage. I have the same battery as you and was planning on using my NOCO tender which has an AGM setting. I have used it now 5 years on my yellow top with no issues so I am curious how much that requirement actually matters?

[460.465USMC]

Hey Chris,
That's how I wired mine. The stalks pull back feature as my horn. And the side pull switch, I painted red and used it as my 4-Way switch.
217040

Thanks, Mike. Good to know you have the same unit. I may have questions later on. :) I'm not sure how convenient it will be to have the high/low beam on the hub. The 4-way option you chose is a good one, because it will be a low use button. You give me food for thought. Thanks!

[460.465USMC]

I guess you learn something new everyday. I would not have thought that a battery manufacturer would require a minimum amperage. I have the same battery as you and was planning on using my NOCO tender which has an AGM setting. I have used it now 5 years on my yellow top with no issues so I am curious how much that requirement actually matters?

I just don't have much experience with AGM, so it's difficult not to take their recommendation at face value. Here's a screenshot of the specs from their website for the ODS-AGM28 (PC-925). I have an inquiry into Odyssey to see what they say.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217046&d=1753905942

[460.465USMC]

Update: I was hoping for some insight with Odyssey's response, but instead they sent me a canned response:

"It will not charge the battery properly since the charge current [of my Battery Tender charger] does not meet the minimum requirements."

What does charge properly mean? If the battery is charged and I keep it connected (i.e. over the winter) will it not keep the battery charged (i.e. healthy?).

If anyone has better AGM knowledge or experience, please chime in.

[PNWTim]

I am thinking there is some smoke and mirrors here. Their smallest and least expensive charger is $120. It only charges (at 5 amps), it's not really a smart tender. I find it hard to believe a tender with an AGM setting (not sure what that does either) won't keep the battery in tip top shape. Obviously I am probably second in line of the "don't really know" camp but common sense tells me this is marketing magic.

I can understand they don't want you actually charging the battery at very low amperage but isn't there a difference when you are simply maintaining the optimal voltage? It's a mystery to me.

[edwardb]

I've been using a CTEK 7002 for some years with the Odyssey PC925 batteries/ Was recommended to me and has a lot of positive reviews. Happy with how it works. Rated at 7 amps BTW. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FRLO9Y?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_12&th=1

[F500guy]

I believe that in order to maintain, it needs to cycle a high charge rate occasionally to ensure they don't sulfate up the electrodes. That is what the maintaining is supposed to do verses a simple trickle charger. I have never been a fan of always connected chargers for months, so I usually unplug it once in a while so it will cycle a good charge and make sure that the "Charge complete" finishes, as batteries degrade they may never hit the completed threshold.

[460.465USMC]

I've been using a CTEK 7002 for some years with the Odyssey PC925 batteries/ Was recommended to me and has a lot of positive reviews. Happy with how it works. Rated at 7 amps BTW. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FRLO9Y?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_12&th=1

A recommend based upon your real-world experience is helpful. Thanks, Paul!


I believe that in order to maintain, it needs to cycle a high charge rate occasionally to ensure they don't sulfate up the electrodes. That is what the maintaining is supposed to do verses a simple trickle charger. I have never been a fan of always connected chargers for months, so I usually unplug it once in a while so it will cycle a good charge and make sure that the "Charge complete" finishes, as batteries degrade they may never hit the completed threshold.

Hi Lance. This is just the type of insight I was hoping to get. What you wrote makes sense, and a good reason indeed to follow Odyssey's recommend on the 2.7A minimum. Here I go back down the money hole!

[460.465USMC]

The first rivets have been pulled. Feels good to get to the point where I can permanently install some panels. The powder coat matches the chassis pretty well.

I think I mentioned it before, but I’m leaving the rivets natural color: I like the contrast. I showed my wife, and pointed out how I like the shiny rivets against the black panels. She said it looks like the Batmobile. Should I take that as a compliment? Batman is cool and all, but not really the vision I have in mind for the Coupe. Although, it will be painted black. Hmmmmm….

First panels to go in were the radiator surrounds and the hold-down bracket. With the black panels, I switched to black silicone, GE Supreme ($12+ per tube). Ouch! The aluminum rivets that came with my kit were pretty unsightly, donut shaped instead of dome shaped–see earlier post. So, I’m going with SS rivets wherever they will be visible.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217516&d=1755017949


The footbox panels were up next. I spend quite a bit of prep time here making templates for the Thermo Tec. So many angles to deal with, plus avoiding overlap where the panel comes in contact with chassis tubes. The blue tape pieces are reminders of gaps to close. I’ve closed quite a few so far with silicone. The passenger side has just as many, if not more. Still noodling on a good way to close the larger gaps.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217514&d=1755017949


I had a big Whoops! moment on the passenger side outboard panel (not shown). The tip of the gray Sharpie I was using to trace the chassis tubes went dry. I shook it in a downward motion to force fluid down into the tip. And wouldn't you know it, fluid came down all right. A bunch of it landed on that panel, outboard side. Long story short, I bought some matching paint from my powder coater. It's close enough that my wife couldn't easily pick out the difference. It jumps out at me, of course. But it's installed now. Moving on.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217515&d=1755017949


Batmobile? Seriously?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217513&d=1755017949


As I mentioned, I'm using Thermo-Tec again. I found a much better three piece roller set. Heavier duty and better bearings for smoother rolling ($16): LUMITECO roller kit (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CLRBXPDS?ref_=ppx_hzod_title_dt_b_fed_asin_title _0_0).

I'm making good progress on the cockpit panels, and hope to wrap those up in the near future. Friendly reminder: Where rivets are exposed on the bottom (e.g. under the seat pan), consider pulling the rivet from underneath. This leaves the prettier side facing the road. The crumpled end will be covered with heat/sound mat/carpet on the inside of the cockpit. It's not like a lot of people will be crawling underneath to examine those rivets, but why not. :p I didn't think of this until it was too late on my MK4 build.

Lastly, I finally placed the order for my transmission: T-56, Quicktime bell housing, reverse lockout, backup light wiring, and McLeod hydraulic throwout bearing. Should be here in a week or two.

[8secDuster]

Looks good Chris!
I like the contrast as well.
Which Rivet Gun do you have? Does it pull the SS ok?

[460.465USMC]

Thanks, Mike. Funny you should ask. I had been priding myself in hand-pulling all the rivets on my last build. But the new tool bug bit me. I picked up the Milwaukee M12 rivet gun. It's fantastic. Breezes through the stainless, including 3/16" rivets as well. Now I know what I was missing.

[Papa]

Batmobile ... think sinister! On the Thermotech, I realized that the effort needed to try to cut the material to exactly fit the panels was not necessary. Just cover the panels with pieces that butt up and tape the seams with aluminum tape.

This stuff is about as perfect a match to the frame PC as you can get in both color and sheen:

https://a.co/d/bmPMd5s

Tim tipped me off to this.

[8secDuster]

Thanks, Mike. Funny you should ask. I had been priding myself in hand-pulling all the rivets on my last build. But the new tool bug bit me. I picked up the Milwaukee M12 rivet gun. It's fantastic. Breezes through the stainless, including 3/16" rivets as well. Now I know what I was missing.

Hand pulling all those in Stainless... you'd have Popeye arms!

[460.465USMC]

Question: are the under door panels supposed to be drilled and riveted along the top 1.5" chassis tube? Mine came with a couple screws when shipped from F5. The manual is unclear whether the top rail should get the normal rivet treatment. I don't know of any reason not to, but their picture doesn't show any. Anyone guidance would be appreciated.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217528&d=1755041088

[8secDuster]

I did mine on the inside of the rail.
Wasn't sure either, but figured it would keep the panel tight against the frame to eliminate a potential vibration there, and it would be another sealant point to keep the possibility of water entering.

217531

[460.465USMC]

Thanks, Mike. Did you put any across the top, or just along the inside edge of the top rail?

[8secDuster]

Just across the inside of the rails Chris.
I was afraid I may hit a rivet while drilling holes in the top of that rail to secure the body.

Revised my original answer. It was confusing, sorry.

[Kbl7td]

Just throw 3 in the top, makes no difference either way but at least it won’t rattle then.

[edwardb]

I went back and looked at pictures from during my build. I had a full compliment of rivets on the inside cockpit side of the panels. But no rivets on the top. I put three large rivnuts (I recall 1/4-20) across the top which secured the aluminum and then bolts through holding the body sill. It all sits flat and tight. Not going anywhere and not going to rattle.

[460.465USMC]

Just across the inside of the rails Chris.
I was afraid I may hit a rivet while drilling holes in the top of that rail to secure the body.


Just throw 3 in the top, makes no difference either way but at least it won’t rattle then.


I went back and looked at pictures from during my build. I had a full compliment of rivets on the inside cockpit side of the panels. But no rivets on the top. I put three large rivnuts (I recall 1/4-20) across the top which secured the aluminum and then bolts through holding the body sill. It all sits flat and tight. Not going anywhere and not going to rattle.

Thanks for the input, Gents! Really appreciate it. For grins I emailed F5 as well. Dan's response was pretty much in line with what you recommended, except for the rivnuts, of course. :p I've grown to find those really functional, and will likely use 2-3 along the top when the time comes. For now, I'm going to rivet along the inside rail, and silicone along the top. And temporarily clamp the top until it cures.

[Blitzboy54]

Chris, your engine panels look fantastic. Really clean. Looking forward to you stuffing that Coyote in there.

[flight_83]

Just curious why you installed the radiator and surrounds already? I just found it beneficial to have as much access to that area as possible until the engine was installed and lines were ran.

[460.465USMC]

Hello. Thanks for the question. I can see why you waited. The more room the better. I very well may pull the radiator (two bolts) when the time comes. I'm not concerned about the sides, but who knows. Maybe I'll be kicking myself trying to work around them...it seems I learn most things the hard way. :p

What are the lines you're referring to that require access in that area? Is it the hoses to the condenser that run along the right side?

[460.465USMC]

Chris, your engine panels look fantastic. Really clean. Looking forward to you stuffing that Coyote in there.

Thanks, Jesse. I'm sure the rivet contrast is not for everyone, but I sure like it. Speaking of Coyote, I picked up the T-56 with all the goodies yesterday. Between the motor and trans they're taking up a lot of valuable floor space in my garage. I'll have to take a look at what all I want to run in terms of electrical, but it would make good sense from a garage space standpoint to drop in the drivetrain sooner rather than later.

[460.465USMC]

Friday, I picked up my T-56 Magnum transmission and associated goodies from the freight dock. Thankfully, the shipment arrived intact. No visible damage. Phew! That’s not a given nowadays.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217956&d=1756081577


Today, I inventoried all the boxes and looked over the parts/pieces. Here’s what I ordered:


Tremec Magnum 6-Speed (TUET11010): 2.66, 1.78, 1.30, 1.00, .80, .63
Quicktime bellhousing RM8080 ($$$$)
T-56 Magnum Reverse Lockout Control Module
Gauge plate: provides concentric hole required to perform bellhousing runout check
McLeod Super Street Pro Clutch Kit
McLeod flywheel
McLeod hydraulic throwout bearing kit.
Wiring for reverse light and speed sensor connections
Break in Transmission oil (Dexron III), 4 quart pack


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217957&d=1756081577


This T-56 may look a lot like the other Magnums in the transmission nursery, but this one's mine. :p I owned a 6th Gen Camaro that had the OEM version (TR6060), so I'm excited to experience the aftermarket version in the Coupe. I've heard it's quite the improvement over the TKO600 I had in my MK4. Looking forward to rowing through the gears, and a more natural step down from 4th into the overdrive gears.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217958&d=1756081577


The Quicktime bell housing: I don’t understand why these are so pricey. It would be interesting to know the drivers behind the price point. The Ford aluminum bell housing is <50% the cost. But I jumped down the money hole because I appreciate the extra layer of safety the steel housing will provide. Just in case.

I'm looking forward to learning how to put this all together. Will need to pick up a dial gauge for the runout calibration step. But otherwise, I think I have most of the tools I'll need.

Happy building!

[PNWTim]

Fun! You've got all you need. Now please install by Monday, 5:00 PM latest and report back. ;)

[JimStone]

I have essentially the same parts as you, and just did this over the weekend. What I don't see in your picture, and I thought came with the Mccleod kit but didn't, was the pilot bearing.



------------

Edit: I looked again and now I see your bearing. Carry on!!

[460.465USMC]

Fun! You've got all you need. Now please install by Monday, 5:00 PM latest and report back. ;)

The only thing I can do that fast is mess it up! It will be a learning experience, and I'm excited to take it on.


I have essentially the same parts as you, and just did this over the weekend. What I don't see in your picture, and I thought came with the Mccleod kit but didn't, was the pilot bearing.

There was confusion as to the part number. Found out GM has a different part number for the replacement bearing than it does for the original from the factory bearing. Same item, however

Amazon to the rescue again: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000C9Q1AM?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Perfect fit


------------

Edit: I looked again and now I see your bearing. Carry on!!

That's good news. Now I know who to call if I get stuck. :p Any advice for me?

Yep, the pilot bearing is in that small, red box in the lower left of the picture.

[JimStone]

The only thing I can do that fast is mess it up! It will be a learning experience, and I'm excited to take it on.



That's good news. Now I know who to call if I get stuck. :p Any advice for me?

Yep, the pilot bearing is in that small, red box in the lower left of the picture.

So far it's all gone together super easy.

The bellhousing run out was perfect. 0.0035in for me, so no adjustment dowels needed.

I've done everything but mate the trans, but the alignment tool sticks in there real nice so it should slide right in

I've found ChatGPT to be really good at putting together step by step instructions for things like this. Its my first time doing this, so just the general basics and order of assembly are new. ChatGPT lays it neatly. Then I verify, because AI sometimes lies

[Blitzboy54]

Chris, I have no idea why the steel bell housing is as expensive as it is. I went with the aluminum for that reason. I did have to burr out some clearance for the fly wheel though. When you mate everything together don’t forget about the crankshaft pulse ring. If you don’t install it your engine won’t start and you have to pull it all back apart. Ask me how I know.

You got this!

[Skuzzy]

The price of the Quicktime bellhousing is a small price to pay for the security of knowing if something comes apart in the bellhousing, it will stay in the bellhousing.

They are expensive as they are low volume and the process of making them is expensive. It is a patented process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36Z2K8zj9Vk

[flight_83]

What are the lines you're referring to that require access in that area? Is it the hoses to the condenser that run along the right side?

Mostly just routing and connecting the power steering lines. At least for me it was a bit of a pain in the *** getting to the fittings and lining them up the way I wanted.

[flight_83]

The price of the Quicktime bellhousing is a small price to pay for the security of knowing if something comes apart in the bellhousing, it will stay in the bellhousing.

They are expensive as they are low volume and the process of making them is expensive. It is a patented process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36Z2K8zj9Vk

Yeah but there are millions of cars and trucks out there with aluminum bellhousings and how many of them do you hear about blowing up? Of course if you’ve got some crazy build with a ton of power I’d go that route. You can also rivet in some steel plate on the inside of the trans tunnel the would essentially do the same thing. Driveshaft safety loop was what I was more concerned with, I’ve seen a few of those go over the years.

[Lugnut Mark]

Does anyone know the part # for the aluminum bellhousing … I’m getting ready to order my t-56 and thought the aluminum bellhousing was no longer available… I too would like to mitigate some of the cost with building my coupe!

Nevermind I found it lethal performance offers them for $295 part # 8580

[Skuzzy]

Yeah but there are millions of cars and trucks out there with aluminum bellhousings and how many of them do you hear about blowing up? Of course if you’ve got some crazy build with a ton of power I’d go that route. You can also rivet in some steel plate on the inside of the trans tunnel the would essentially do the same thing. Driveshaft safety loop was what I was more concerned with, I’ve seen a few of those go over the years.

A small percentage of cars/trucks come with a standard transmission. Even fewer are used for racing in stock trim. Look at the relative position of the flywheel to your limbs in most vehicles. Also note manufactured cars come with a heavy steel floor.

Yes, you can weld in a steel plate to protect yourself. I am not saying this is a rampant problem. It is just one of those things which can happen and if it does, I prefer having that extra protection. I also agree about the driveshaft safety hoop.

Just my two pennies worth.

[460.465USMC]

Chris, I have no idea why the steel bell housing is as expensive as it is. I went with the aluminum for that reason. I did have to burr out some clearance for the fly wheel though. When you mate everything together don’t forget about the crankshaft pulse ring. If you don’t install it your engine won’t start and you have to pull it all back apart. Ask me how I know.

You got this!

Thanks for the vote of confidence, Jesse! I'll be reading, re-reading, and re-reading again all the instructions. Taking my time--I'm really good at that. :p

The crankshaft pulse ring: I don't remember dealing with this on my Gen 3 Coyote, and for whatever reason it hasn't hit my radar yet for the Gen 4. However, Forte put together my Gen 3 setup, so no doubt it was handled during assembly. I had to Google it, and found a helpful video from LMR: 2011-2023 Mustang 5.0L Coyote Crankshaft Sensor Ring | What Is It & How To Install (https://www.google.com/search?q=does+a+gen+4+coyote+use+a+crankshfat+puls e+ring&rlz=1C1CHBD_enUS907US907&oq=does+a+gen+4+coyote+use+a+crankshfat+pulse+ring&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIJCAEQIRgKGKABMgkIAh AhGAoYoAEyCQgDECEYChigATIJCAQQIRgKGKABMgkIBRAhGAoY oAEyBwgGECEYjwLSAQoxMDU0NWowajE1qAIIsAIB8QXzMHYrdW 4_zg&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:353f6b16,vid:4gOjjhcggGU,st:18) Thanks for the helpful tip!


The price of the Quicktime bellhousing is a small price to pay for the security of knowing if something comes apart in the bellhousing, it will stay in the bellhousing.

They are expensive as they are low volume and the process of making them is expensive. It is a patented process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36Z2K8zj9Vk

Thanks for the info, Skuzzy. All logical and makes sense. Low volume, high specialty, high quality product are the reasons I suppose. I went with the Ford aluminum version on my last build, but decided to go this route second time around. I will also be installing a driveshaft safety loop, as I did in my last build. Price point on those is much more digestible.

[460.465USMC]

Guess it was time for another Whoops! That seems to be my trend lately.

I overlooked the short panel that extends the radiator back duct panel at the top by about four inches, and connects to the side panels. I should have caught it. But I will say there’s no mention of it in the F5 instructions. It’s not obvious. I literally found it by accident the other day when I was researching which panels get the push-on bulb seal. I’ll have to drill out the SS rivets along the top. Hopefully, I can drill it without damaging the powder coat on the duct panel. Bummer. One down side of using SS rivets is sometimes I've had them spin when drilling out (for removal). Anyway, I’ll get it mocked up, then set it aside until after the drivetrain is installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218177&d=1756406581


After the footbox panels, I moved on to the cockpit panels. I ran into a couple issues with the under door aluminum panels: two gaps I wasn’t expecting.

Gap #1 - along the top rail: the upright part of the panel sits flush against the top rail in the rear, but gradually opens up to ⅜”+ at the front. I was planning to rivet along the entirety of the inside of the top rail, but ended up with just three at the rear where the panel is close to the rail. Both sides are the same. I wish the pictures in the manual were a bit more clear. I guess the silver lining is I won’t have to wrap the carpet around the 1.5” post corner at the front. The panel sits flush with that post.
Gap #2 - the bottom flange of the panel sits about ¼” above the floor. Best I can figure is this is due to where F5 bent the top of the panel. Instead of trying to force the bottom flange and the floor together, I siliconed 0.2” spacers (¼”-20 nuts) centered around the rivet holes, and then laid a bead of silicone along the edge. I highly doubt it's designed to have this gap, but it's the best I could do with how they bent these panels.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218178&d=1756406883


A number of builders have called out a heat concern in the cockpit from the side exhaust. So, I added another layer of Thermo Tec to the outside of the under door panels. Then painted it black so there’s no flash from the foil. I don’t think this area is visible once the body is on, but I didn’t want to chance it. Blends in pretty good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218176&d=1756405535


Trans tunnel front panels: the bend angles didn't align, resulting in a gap where they rivet together–see picture below. The gap is only visible when looking from below, so that’s probably why I didn’t notice initially. Otherwise, I would have adjusted the bends to close the gap. Anyway, I broke out the big guns, using 3/16” SS rivets to pull the panels together. The Milwaukie pulls those guys no problem. Nice!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218172&d=1756405470


It's a shame to cover over all the pretty powder coating.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218179&d=1756407292


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218174&d=1756405470


I don't know think the uppermost portions of the footboxes get carpet, so covering up the foil so it blends in (black Gorilla tape in the picture below where the heater and AC hoses will route). For others like the transmission tunnel top covers, I'll probably paint over the Thermo Tec on the bottom side (black).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218175&d=1756405470

[burchfieldb]

It is looking good and it is a shame to have to cover that nice powdercoat job.

[8secDuster]

I had to trim both of the under door panels (forward / top) a smidge to get them to sit flush with that top rail.
Apologies, I forgot about that until you mentioned it.

[flight_83]

A number of builders have called out a heat concern in the cockpit from the side exhaust. So, I added another layer of Thermo Tec to the outside of the under door panels. Then painted it black so there’s no flash from the foil. I don’t think this area is visible once the body is on, but I didn’t want to chance it. Blends in pretty good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218176&d=1756405535

I found these foam insulation boards from Home Depot that worked great for filing the voids. I’m going to put another sheet of Aluminum to cover that area as well. 218212218213

[460.465USMC]

I had to trim both of the under door panels (forward / top) a smidge to get them to sit flush with that top rail.
Apologies, I forgot about that until you mentioned it.

No worries. Good to know. The under door panels looked innocent enough. Caught me off guard. It makes sense they should be flush along the entirety of the top rail. I will run a bead of silicone to ensure they are completely sealed. Hopefully, my placement won't cause any issues.


I found these foam insulation boards from Home Depot that worked great for filing the voids. I’m going to put another sheet of Aluminum to cover that area as well.

Thanks for the tip. I think Namrups did something similar and liked it as well. What insulation on you using on your panels? I found the Thermo Tec to be very effective at mitigating engine bay heat in my MK4.

[460.465USMC]

I'm looking for a recommendation for a plunge type dial indicator with magnetic base for the Quicktime bellhousing to crankshaft alignment on my T-56. I expect this will be a very low use tool for me, so I'd like to keep the cost down. Here's one from Summit Racing for $39. Any concerns with something like this? Measurement range is 0-1.0 inches in .001 increments.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218451&d=1757095738

[bishes]

That's the exact dial indicator that I have. I haven't installed my engine or started it yet so I'm limited in what I can confidently say, but I'm happy with it and it seems to have worked very well.

[flight_83]

I picked one up from HF that worked just fine. Bit of a pain in the *** getting it positioned just right but did the trick.

[JohnK]

I initially picked up this one to dial in my bell housing. It was a POS and caused me immense frustration.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YPHT76?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_6

I then tossed that one in the garbage where it belonged, and picked up this one which, while still not an "expensive" instrument, was massively better than the previous one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001C0ZOPS?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_5&th=1

[PNWTim]

I initially picked up this one to dial in my bell housing. It was a POS and caused me immense frustration.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YPHT76?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_6

I then tossed that one in the garbage where it belonged, and picked up this one which, while still not an "expensive" instrument, was massively better than the previous one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001C0ZOPS?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_5&th=1

I am curious what you used for a base? I found getting it positioned and secured on the end of the crank was the most difficult part of the operation and I went through two trying to find one that wasn't designed by the Frustrated and Worthless Engineering dept.

[JohnK]

you’re right, the magnetic base was a large part of my original frustration. I ended up using a Noga DG1033 base from Amazon.

Here is my whole thread regarding dial, indicating my bell housing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?32370-Double-check-my-bellhousing-alignment-please

[460.465USMC]

you’re right, the magnetic base was a large part of my original frustration. I ended up using a Noga DG1033 base from Amazon.

Here is my whole thread regarding dial, indicating my bell housing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?32370-Double-check-my-bellhousing-alignment-please

Hey John. Good to hear from you. I hope all is well with you and yours.

Your bell housing alignment thread is gold. Just what I needed to get my head on straight. Given this is the first time I've used a dial indicator, and first time mating bell housing to the motor, prudence says I shouldn't add another unknown to the equation. Now that I know, I'd be second guessing my readings if I bought the cheapest model.

P.S. I'm still holding out hope to someday see a "JohnK's Coupe Build Thread".

[JohnK]

Hey Chris, all good here! I hope you're also doing well. Your build is coming along beautifully.

You're right that this is one of those tools that will be seldom used, but buying a cheap one is problematic. If you want to PM me your address, I'm happy to ship you my dial indicator and base for you to use.

Not saying no to a coupe build somewhere down the road, but for the moment I've gone deeeeeeeep down the rabbit hole of tracking a Porsche Cayman so for now I live vicariously through and others here on awesome FFR builds. :p

[460.465USMC]

Thanks, John. Tracking a Porsche Cayman? Wow! Very cool.

That's a very generous offer on your dial indicator. I just might take you up on it. Thank you! (I think I still have your number, so will send over my info with a text). Would love to see a picture or two of your Cayman tracking. That sounds like a blast.

[460.465USMC]

It seemed wrong to cover up the powder coat, but it must be done. I'm not expecting any measurable sound improvement, but the heat control alone is worth it IMHO. However, I think there is a small argument for sound improvement as it does change the tinny aluminum to a more solid sounding panel.

I had previously started in the footboxes. Finished those, including the bottom side of the top panels. I painted those black--don't want the shiny foil smiling at me if my head finds itself in the footbox.

Next up was the floor of the cockpit. I kept the seams tight, and layered HVAC foil tape over them. I'm using Thermo Tec again--it performed well in my MK4. They changed the labeling from blue to black for the last couple of rolls I bought. Visible on the rear outside corner panel in the picture below. I don't know if they changed the formula, but the newer black labeled stuff seems a little softer. Speaking of the outside corner panels, I made the decision to install now. Hopefully, those ears won't fight me too much when I'm putting the body on/off.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218586&d=1757428884


Here's the left side of the cockpit. The Thermo Tec nicely seals the small holes where panels come together. For the larger gaps, like around the seatbelt anchors, I will be using Dynatron, a 3M marine grade product that builder JohnK turned me on to last time. Great stuff! Can be used on larger gaps, retains some flexibility, and is paintable. Comes in a caulk tube. It's not cheap (nothing is!), but one tube will be more than enough for all the gaps in the cockpit and footboxes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218583&d=1757428884


I also put a layer along the firewall. One nice thing I discovered is it's much easier to remove it from the powder coated panels than it was from the raw aluminum. Bonus, as I'll undoubtedly need to pull some back for various wiring/modules.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218585&d=1757428884


Thankfully, I was able to install most of the FB insulation with the panels on the work bench by first tracing the chassis members to serve as the borders.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218584&d=1757428884


I also assembled the trunk box and layered in the insulation. Taking advantage of the momentum, I layered over the front and rear hatch floor panels. At this point, I'd say my panel insulation is ~95% complete. That's okay by me, as I'm ready to move on to something different.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218582&d=1757428884


Some of the builders I admire use spray-on for insulation instead of the adhesive matting. From an installation standpoint, after doing this now a second time I can see why. In fact, after seeing 8SecDuster's underbody application of Lizard Skin, I'm now planning to use their ceramic coating for my underbody coating. I was already planning to undercoat the entire body and nose, so why not get some heat benefit as well? Their marketing video (https://youtu.be/DKRqAsJ1N6k?si=5nA_MHVT8jCvTGj6) of the ice cube on the griddle is quite impressive. I'm hoping their two gallon bucket will be enough. I'll find out when I tackle that one next year.

Weight penalty: I estimate the Thermo Tec will add up to 45 lbs. As best I can tell the 3'x5' rolls weigh about 7 lbs, and I'll be well into my sixth roll when I'm done. Good news: the HP to weight ratio will still be more than enough for my use.

[Papa]

Nice, clean work, Chris.

[8secDuster]

Looks good Chris!
2 gallon's of their CI will cover the underside of the body no problem.

[PNWTim]

Looking good Chris. I also precut my pieces for the foot boxes, which, although it is more of one kind of work, eliminated the other kind of work where I am upside down, stuffed into a space I am not meant to go in. I am a couple of months behind you but looking forward to installing all those panels as well. I did finally break down and buy the Milwaukee rivet tool after fighting it off for 9 months. I now understand why it is so popular.

[460.465USMC]

Agreed on avoiding as much of the FB contortionist fun as possible. I hear you on the rivet gun; it's not an immaterial amount to spend on a tool. One unexpected benefit I found is it frees up one hand, especially when pulling stainless rivets (if you're using those). An extra hand has been pretty helpful at times.

[Lugnut Mark]

Hey Bud … Mark here … I am in the process of figuring out what parts to order for my T-56 trans … could you please provide me the part #s for the clutch ,hydraulic throw out bearing ,pilot bearing and flywheel from McLeod …thanks in advanced … btw I have a gen4x Coyote as well

Best regards
Mark

[PNWTim]

Hey Bud … Mark here … I am in the process of figuring out what parts to order for my T-56 trans … could you please provide me the part #s for the clutch ,hydraulic throw out bearing ,pilot bearing and flywheel from McLeod …thanks in advanced … btw I have a gen4x Coyote as well

Best regards
Mark

Mark - if you do a search of the forum there is a fairly recent thread (in the last 3 or 4 months) that delineates all of these items.

[Papa]

I think this is it:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?50886-Gen4-Coyote-T56-Parts-list

A tip for those that haven't seen how to use Google to search these forums. Use the following syntax in your Google search bar:

site:thefactoryfiveforum.com <search terms>

Example: site:thefactoryfiveforum.com T-56 clutch

Search results:

https://www.google.com/search?q=site%3Athefactoryfiveforum.com+T-56+clutch&oq=site%3Athefactoryfiveforum.com+T-56+clutch&gs_lcrp=EgRlZGdlKgYIABBFGDkyBggAEEUYOTIGCAEQRRg60g EJMzA4MzlqMGoxqAIAsAIA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

[460.465USMC]

Hey Bud … Mark here … I am in the process of figuring out what parts to order for my T-56 trans … could you please provide me the part #s for the clutch ,hydraulic throw out bearing ,pilot bearing and flywheel from McLeod …thanks in advanced … btw I have a gen4x Coyote as well

Best regards
Mark

I appreciate Tim and Papa chiming in. Thanks, Gents!

Mark, I went a different route and ordered a package deal for the trans, which takes some of the compatibility guess work out of it for me. I also got a very fair price (and military discount - if that applies to you). If you're still interested in the T-56 kit I ordered with all the goodies, send me a PM and I'll send it over to you.

[Lugnut Mark]

Thank you gentleman I appreciate all the help … I found the part #s that I needed .

[460.465USMC]

With the DS front/inside panels installed, I turned to filling and bleeding the brake system. Last time, I waited until after drivetrain and electrical were pretty much done (procrastination!). This time, I figured it will be easier to replace a line now before the drivetrain and electrical are in the way if I have a leaker.

During my MK4 build a few years ago, local builder Jim F. showed me the ropes of bleeding brakes. He brought over his Motive power bleeder setup that worked really slick (thanks again, Jim!). So, I picked up their Model 0100 - European Bleeder. It comes with the cap that screws on to the F5 reservoirs. I also picked up their 1810 Catch Bottle (holds about 1 pint). Useful as a siphon if the reservoirs get too full. This setup enables me to do it solo. Good.


Test for air leaks: It’s recommended to first test the setup before adding fluid to verify the pump setup, which I did. However, after 400+ pumps yielding <5 PSI, I gave up and filled the reservoir. It still took a lot of pumps (200+), but pressure eventually built up to 15 PSI. I assumed this was due to the relatively large volume of air in the empty tank compounded by the miniscule amount of air the pump moves. A poorly installed pinch clamp on the output spout of the pump didn’t help (replaced it). I chuckled to myself (I do that a lot), because neither the instructions I read on the Motive web site, nor their instructional video mentioned the crossfit-style forearm workout coming my way. No harm, because I can use the exercise.
Valvoline DOT 3&4 synthetic brake fluid. It only took about 18 oz combined (including a little spillage) to fill the front and rear systems. However, I bought two quarts (64 oz) in order to keep enough fluid in the pump as the catch bottle filled.
Fill reservoirs about half full: a good starting point. Any fuller and the fluid will be at the brim after the bleeding cycle, and require siphoning.
Wilwood’s instructions: they say to only bled from the top bleed screws. (My front Superlite calipers have top and bottom bleed screws). I started with the outers, followed by the inners, i.e. PS outer, then PS inner, etc.
I wasn’t expecting (or didn’t remember) pockets of air in the tube between the pump and the reservoir. This is normal.
Tap the calipers: As the fluid flowed, I gently tapped the calipers with a rubber mallet to jar loose any trapped air bubbles. Pretty sure I read this somewhere, but don't recall the source.
Results: brake pedal is firm and the system is leak free. I bled all four corners three times. However, I initially found one leak at the T-junction in the front lines. But, after a few rounds of tightening-->re-testing, I believe I have it resolved. I test for leaks using a series of panic-stop level pedal engagement, followed by holding a long/firm press for a minute.


With the brakes bled and the wheels off, figured I’d be slick and torque the axle nuts. Nope. I could only get 98 lb ft while before the rotor starts to move. The additional 45 degrees will have to wait until the e-brakes are installed.

Here's my setup with the Motive power bleeder. I haven't bled brakes by another method, so can't compare. But, I will say if this knuckledragger can bleed brakes with this setup, it must be pretty fool proof and efficient.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219203&d=1758573993


I routed the reservoir to MC hoses through the existing clutch hole.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219199&d=1758573761


Here's a closer view of the hoses and the small panel I made.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219198&d=1758573761


I also did some more panel work:

Fixed my Whoops! of the missing top panel in the radiator tunnel.
Fitted/drilled the hatch side panels.
And little panels that cover the square holes around the rear shock mounts.


Thankfully, the SS rivets didn't fight me too much as I drilled them out in order to slip in the missing top panel. Phew!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219204&d=1758574054


View of left side panel in the hatch.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219201&d=1758573993


Really glad to see F5 provides cover panels for the large rectangular opening in the hatch side panels around the shock mounts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219202&d=1758573993


My next (and hopefully final!) powder coat batch is filling up.

[JohnK]

Congrats on bleeding the brakes and being leak-free. That's a big milestone. I absolutely love my Motive Power Bleeder. It makes a PITA job much less of a PITA.

[Papa]

Great progress, Chris.

[burchfieldb]

Looking good! Brakes are coming up for me soon, this will be really helpful. Thanks.

[8secDuster]

Man... It's looking good Chris!
Like Brent, bleeding brakes is in the very near future for me as well.
I have an old Phoenix Bleeded that I seem to fight with every time I use it. So this looks like a good upgrade.
Thanks for posting.

[460.465USMC]

Congrats on bleeding the brakes and being leak-free. That's a big milestone. I absolutely love my Motive Power Bleeder. It makes a PITA job much less of a PITA.

Thanks, John. I am so relieved. I've been wondering, "Are my flares good enough?" As long as that front T-junction remains dry, I'll be happy. This is another low-use tool, but well worth it given the price point. And, it has application to other vehicles as well. I think they offer many cap styles to fit various reservoirs.


Great progress, Chris. Thanks, Dave! So glad no one but me knows how long I spent on this.


Looking good! Brakes are coming up for me soon, this will be really helpful. Thanks. Thanks, Brent. I don't know how you have any time for your build with all those amazing Coupe and MK5 solutions you've been pumping out. I will be reaching out on a few of them as I get closer.


Man... It's looking good Chris!
Like Brent, bleeding brakes is in the very near future for me as well.
I have an old Phoenix Bleeded that I seem to fight with every time I use it. So this looks like a good upgrade.
Thanks for posting. Thanks, Mike! It feels really good to hit this milestone. Brake lines are a handful for me. If I had to buy a bleeder tool again, I wouldn't hesitate to pick up the Motive.

[burchfieldb]

Yeah, there is no time at the moment to work on the coupe. Although as I get more stuff done, it knocks it off my to do list.

[PNWTim]

Chris - well done putting this task behind you and being leak free. I have a question unrelated to the brakes but something I have been scratching my head about for a bit. In the first picture of your most recent post I can see the Factory Five logo bracket on your PS footbox. I have looked at this piece of hardware for the last 7 months wondering where it goes but assumed it would pop up along the way, which it really has not.

I made a maximum effort a couple of days ago to actually find out what it is for. I went through my inventory page by page, reviewed the Coyote install documents and slowly came to the understanding it might be the bracket to mount the Control Pack fuse box. Then I see your post, and there it is, sitting up on the footbox, exactly where FF recommends mounting the thing. So, can you please confirm this is what it is and then I can quickly lose it again for a month or two?

[460.465USMC]

Yes, you got it, Tim. That's the bracket for the Coyote power distribution block. I mounted it in the same location on my MK4 build. It makes the PDB accessible, plus I know the harness will reach that location no problem.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219338&d=1758810188


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219339&d=1758810188

[PNWTim]

Thanks for the confirmation Chris, looks good.

[Blitzboy54]

Super clean Chris. Looking very sharp.

[460.465USMC]

The next major task on my list is mating the T-56 to the motor. As a first timer, I’m bouncing between multiple sources of info. to get everything put together, and in the right order (hopefully).

Pilot bearing (PBF-M7600B): Following the transmission supplier’s instructions, I was told it would be flush with the face of the crank. Not so. I drove it in most of the way with a rubber mallet and socket, but a steel hammer was needed for it to fully seat. It sits proud of the crank face by about 5/64”. But after comparing to a couple other Coyote builders, I think I’m okay. I’ll probably measure for input shaft clearance just to be sure.

Motor mounts: they need to be installed so I can set the motor in my DIY wood cradle (reusing from last build). And the motor needs to be in the cradle, so I can mount the bellhousing backplate, flywheel, etc. Sequence.

Motor mounts are straight forward enough, but mine needed a little extra attention. After assembling them, I noticed the ½ inch spacers--supplied by F5 and required for the Coyote–didn’t sit flush against the mount housings. Taking them back apart, I discovered the welds of the M14 stud and adjacent locating pin were interfering with the spacers.

So, I ground down the spots on the spacers where they were making contact. Then painted the exposed metal. Then back together and installed on the motor.

Here you can see where I had to grind the 1/2 inch spacer. I think this one is for the left motor mount. They're not side specific, except for the weld interference points were unique.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219810&d=1759679195


Grinding went pretty quick, thanks to the 18” bandfile sander I picked up last Christmas with a gift card. Handy little tool.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219816&d=1759679294


I have the motor nestled in a DIY wood cradle where it will sit until the T-56 is mated and, ultimately, until I'm ready to install the drivetrain. I got this idea from Edwardb. Works great! You can also see the rubber dust cover/plug in the lower left of the picture. (It's listed by F5 in their Coyote fitment manual).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219834&d=1759706179

This view of the cradle makes it more obvious why I needed to put the motor mounts on now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219812&d=1759679195


Quicktime bellhousing trim: It’s been well documented the bellhousing and backplate will protrude below the chassis for Coyote builds. Definitely easier to trim these now. I used my little portable-bandsaw-that-could. Basically, the trimming eliminates the bottom most three holes of the bellhousing and backplate. The cut piece is 1.125” at the center. I cleaned up the cut with a flap disc and painted the exposed steel on the bellhousing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219813&d=1759679195


Clutch pins: I was wondering about the three pins that came with the flywheel. Turns out these are used to locate the clutch pressure plate on the flywheel (red arrows). Almost missed them. (My oversight: they’re clearly shown in the F5 manual). Also, the bottom trimming of the backing plate is visible.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219835&d=1759706179


Tremec still offers a free shift ball (black or white) if you register your transmission. I did, and this just came in the mail. It includes a variety of threaded inserts to fit various thread sizes/pitches.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219815&d=1759679255

[460.465USMC]

Oh, and not part of the trans install, but wanted to mention I put the steering back in place. But before I did, I put Loctite blue on the small metric screws that help keep the u-joints in place. Could be done later, but why not now when it's disassembled and on the workbench?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219842&d=1759708389

[460.465USMC]

So, I'm moving on to the next step of indexing the Quicktime bellhousing. It comes with a couple fastener packs. The fasteners for the bell to engine block are M10-1.5 (5 ea), and 3/8"-16 x 2" (2 ea). Right away, the 3/8" SAE hardware seems out of place on an engine block with metric threaded holes. They are supposed to thread into the dowl pin holes. SAE bolts don't seem right, but I figure Quicktime knows what they're doing, plus the Gen4x Coyote was released over a year ago.

I tried threading them in by hand. They thread in easily about 5-7 full turns before resisting. Then I tried a M10-1.5 by hand. It will thread in without resistance, but seems a little loose. Measuring the difference with my caliper between M10 and 3/8" is less than 0.5mm, so they're close.

I called my transmission supplier, but they didn't have the answer. Next, I called Quicktime (a Holley company). After about 30 minutes on the phone, they decided to ship me the "correct" fasteners. They're coming to me via UPS, but I don't have the details on what they're sending. If I were a betting man, I'd wager they're shipping M10-1.5 x 50mm (2 ea) with the special "washer".

Two 3/8" bolts with special washers and M10 below.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219914&d=1759945325

[PNWTim]

Nice write up Chris. You answered some questions for me and most importantly, reminded me to register my transmission for my free shift ball. You confirmed where I should cut the bell housing and shield so that's on the list. I think your blue Loctite idea is spot on. Can't hurt on such a critical item.

I haven't opened my Quicktime box yet but now you have me curious. I am getting used to the SAE/Metric boogie Detroit has engaged in but it does seem a little funny they would be mixed on an item like the bellhousing. Interested to see what Holley actually ships you.

I think I am going to leave my engine on the stand it came with since I put casters on it and I will just bolt on the motor mounts while it's dangling from the cherry picker. Your progress looks great but I am gaining a little ground now that summer is over!

[460.465USMC]

I am getting used to the SAE/Metric boogie Detroit has engaged in but it does seem a little funny they would be mixed on an item like the bellhousing. Interested to see what Holley actually ships you.

I think I am going to leave my engine on the stand it came with since I put casters on it and I will just bolt on the motor mounts while it's dangling from the cherry picker. Your progress looks great but I am gaining a little ground now that summer is over!

That's funny. I've definitely been doing the boogie on these builds, which is why I'm so hesitant to torque these two bolts until I'm certain.

Having the motor on casters has been really helpful, as my garage space is at a premium. For quite some time I had it on this cart which I made from pieces of the motor crate. But no way to proceed with the trans install until it's off this Ford engine stand. Good incentive for me to get the drivetrain installed!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219921&d=1759963335

[PNWTim]

Wow, you're way more sophisticated than I am. I just bolted casters to the metal stand and called it good. Based on the giant valvetrain, I am always afraid it might tip over so I roll it very carefully. I have a mini cart for the tail of the transmission for when I bolt it up.

[460.465USMC]

Quick update on my bellhousing fastener issue: I’m still awaiting fasteners from Holley. Many (most?) car items take a week (or more!) to reach me here in the northwest. In the meantime, I’ve become convinced the threads in the dowel holes are M10-1.5. I had a short one in my goodie stash, and installed it on the bell, slowly increasing torque until I reached 40 lb ft. There was no feedback like it was cross threading. Good. This is logical to me since all the other holes are metric (M10-1.5). I may pick up a couple Grade 8 equivalent locally at the correct length (50 mm) just so I can finish the trans install.

Now to tackle the bell indexing (AKA runout, alignment, concentricity, or ??). I watched a number of videos, and studied the instructions that came with my T-56 kit. Settling on the latter, it was much more straightforward than I expected--see video link below. This is one of those times my mind inflated the level of difficulty of something I’ve never tried before. Happens a lot with me.

Here are the steps I followed:


Starting point: Choose any location as the zero/starting point. Ensure the plunger has ample travel in both directions (in/out), so it never loses contact with the surface of the index plate. I positioned the plunger perpendicular, and centered it on the lip of the gauge plate.
Verify indicator setup: Rotate motor a full revolution around to ensure dial returns to zero. Clockwise if viewed from front; dial rotates counter clockwise viewing from rear. This ensures dial setup is solid (i.e. measurements are repeatable).
** Sidenote: on my MK4 build with Gen 3 Coyote, I had a question about which way the motor turns (CW or CCW). I wanted to spin my power steering pump in the normal direction to bleed out the system. Well, with a plastic bag over the air intake on the Gen 4, rotating the motor clockwise (looking from the front), pulls air in (plastic bag flexes inward). Go figure.
Measure max positive: Starting at my zero mark, rotate the motor a complete revolution and find the most positive value (ignore negative values). Max positive being distance plunger extends outward. Mark this location on the gauge plate, +0.0045 in my case.
Measure total runout: Reset indicator to “zero”, then rotate motor 180 deg. This measurement is total indicated runout (0.004 in my case). Divide this number in half (0.002). If the number is negative, the bell will need to move down. Point the offset dowel pins in the same direction (parallel) as the most positive position noted above. The Tremec spec is <0.005 runout, so I’m well within tolerance. Wahoo! My hat is off to Ford and Holley for their precision. From what I’ve read about removing the Coyote dowel pins, I wanted to swap them out about as much as I’d like to spend the weekend waiting in line at the DMV.


A big Thank You to fellow forum member JohnK for lending me his dial indicator and magnetic base. If I were to buy a set, I wouldn’t hesitate to purchase the same. I also appreciated his bell runout thread. He documents the highs and lows of the process, including swapping out the Coyote dowel pins: Double-check my bellhousing alignment please (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?32370-Double-check-my-bellhousing-alignment-please)

Zero mark is my arbitrary starting point (six o'clock). The +4.5 is the max positive reading (about one o'clock). The other black mark is 180 deg. CCW past max positive, and represents total runout of 0.004 (about 7 o'clock). Dividing that in half gives me 0.002, well within Tremec's spec. Phew!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220002&d=1760202104



TREMEC Tech- Bellhousing Runout Alignment – The Easy Way


https://youtu.be/fu9bg-fJdnc?si=U60xdQrIMGAntWS6


I welcome feedback from the forum on my setup and approach. I used the flat of the flywheel v. positioning the mag base at the center, which would have meant removing at least four flywheel bolts. I've seen it done both ways. Any concerns?

[PNWTim]

Chris - nice write up and congrats on a successful indexing. I have only done this with an LS and TKO so the Coyote/Quicktime will be new to me as well. I too am regularly afflicted with paralysis through analysis. I don't believe it matters where the magnet resides as long as the indicator is somewhat centered in the opening and can maintain contact with the rim.

[460.465USMC]

Final update on the bell to block fastener mystery. The replacement fasteners arrived today from Quicktime (Holley). They sent me an entire new fastener pack. Sure enough, the bolts for the dowel pin holes are M10-1.5 x 50mm (Class 12.9 - Grade 8 equivalent). How did they include the oddball 3/8"-16 bolts in my original box? That will remain a mystery. But, I'm thankful patience prevailed, and I didn't damage those threads! Something to be aware of for Coyote builders who are installing the Quicktime RM-8080 bellhousing.

[PNWTim]

The next major task on my list is mating the T-56 to the motor. As a first timer, I’m bouncing between multiple sources of info. to get everything put together, and in the right order (hopefully).

Pilot bearing (PBF-M7600B): Following the transmission supplier’s instructions, I was told it would be flush with the face of the crank. Not so. I drove it in most of the way with a rubber mallet and socket, but a steel hammer was needed for it to fully seat. It sits proud of the crank face by about 5/64”. But after comparing to a couple other Coyote builders, I think I’m okay. I’ll probably measure for input shaft clearance just to be sure.


Chris - I just installed my pilot bearing today and although mine is an M-7600-C, it also protrudes a bit. I am sure it is seated against the end of the crank but to be sure I called Ford Performance. Apparently the newer style pilot bearings (M-7600 A,B and C) are all a stepped design to prevent over driving during install. It is normal for the bearing surface to be proud of the end of the crank. I tried to measure mine with digital calipers and came up with 3/32nds, so close to what you found.

[JohnK]

Nice work Chris! I'm glad the dial indicator worked out for you. I definitely hear you on the "analysis paralysis" part. I can't tell you how many times I watched 10 hours of YT videos before doing a 1 hour task. :p

[PNWTim]

Chris - I thought you would appreciate this. The inside of my Quicktime box looked like a hardware yardsale:

220307

[JimStone]

The guy at the end of the Quicktime assembly line just tosses in a handful from the odds-and-ends jar before closing up the box

Btw, I heard Quicktime is hiring in the their QC department

[460.465USMC]

Chris - I just installed my pilot bearing today and although mine is an M-7600-C, it also protrudes a bit. I am sure it is seated against the end of the crank but to be sure I called Ford Performance. Apparently the newer style pilot bearings (M-7600 A,B and C) are all a stepped design to prevent over driving during install. It is normal for the bearing surface to be proud of the end of the crank. I tried to measure mine with digital calipers and came up with 3/32nds, so close to what you found.

Ah, good to know. Thanks for the confirmation. If you would have said yours sits flush, that would have been a head-scratcher. One thing I forgot to do is put the bearing in the freezer before install. Should have done that with the pressure plate locating pins as well. Oh, well, they're in now and hope I don't have to remove them anytime soon.


Nice work Chris! I'm glad the dial indicator worked out for you. I definitely hear you on the "analysis paralysis" part. I can't tell you how many times I watched 10 hours of YT videos before doing a 1 hour task. :p

Thanks, John. Sounds like I'm in good company! My fear is jumping into a task like, "Ready. Fire. Aim!". I can hear it now, the fly on my garage wall giving play-by-play commentary as he watches me prep to start the bell indexing task: "Ready. Aim...Aim...Aim...Aim...Aim...Aim...Aim...Fire!".


Chris - I thought you would appreciate this. The inside of my Quicktime box looked like a hardware yardsale:

220307

Oh, my! Funny, not funny! I hope you got the right fasteners? To be honest, it almost looked like my box had been opened prior to me. However, the fasteners were at least in a sealed plastic bag.


The guy at the end of the Quicktime assembly line just tosses in a handful from the odds-and-ends jar before closing up the box

Btw, I heard Quicktime is hiring in the their QC department

Too funny, Jim!

[460.465USMC]

It's been a learning curve, but the T-56 is now mated to the Coyote. A few head-scratching moments (what else is new!) along the way. I definitely learned a lot. To be honest, previously I couldn't have accurately described all the parts/pieces and their associated function. Now I know. This was a good experience.


Clutch disc and pressure plate: True confession time: I couldn’t figure out why the pressure plate didn’t sit flush against the clutch disc. Best I could figure is one (or more) of the clutch pins was less than plumb. Not sure how to verify that assumption. Which brings me to the embarrassing part: I drilled out the clutch pin holes in the pressure plate 1/64” over. Surely, a tiny bit of added wiggle room would allow the pressure plate to sit flush, right? It didn’t help at all. So, back to YouTube (again!) to see more installation examples. I finally caught an off-hand comment on Rsnake’s build (video 64). He mentioned how he was evenly torquing the pressure plate bolts in a crisscross pattern so as not to distort the fingers. Hmmmmm…. So, that must mean the pressure plate is drawn flush by the fasteners, like a spring of sorts. Makes sense now, of course. Sheesh!
McLeod throwout bearing: long story short: after some guidance from McLeod tech support, I was able to install the bearing and obtain the needed clearance (0.100 → 0.250). Their instruction doc (included in the box) was less than clear to me. It also didn’t help that I got different measurements to the bearing face between the right, left, and top of the T-56 face. So, I made sure all three were >0.100 but less than <0.250. A bit of brake fluid on the shaft eased the bearing install. It’s a tight fit! If this needs to be removed down the road, I imagine a steering wheel puller or similar would be needed. Oh, and the recommended MC size is 3/4". I bought the 13/16" for the Tilton TOB, so will be listing it for sale in case anyone is interested. For those going with Tilton, I believe they recommend 13/16", but that should be verified with them.
Tick Performance splash guard: the leaking T-56 issue that recently hit my radar (thanks to Lewma and JimStone) would be unwelcome. So, I installed the Tick Performance splash guard underneath the shifter cover plate. Figured if I don’t install it, mine will leak for sure. This doesn’t look easy to do once the trans is installed. So, I put the trans up on my workbench and took care of it while the getting was easy.
Transmission to motor: I’ve read about some of the struggles to get these mated together. I leveled the motor in my DIY cradle, and also leveled the T-56. I put a light touch of grease on the front of the splines, as well as the locating pins. Not sure how much either of those precautions helped, but it didn’t fight me very much. Phew! I will probably install the starter now as well; I don’t think it causes any interference when dropping in the drivetrain. If someone knows otherwise, please let me know.


JimStone did a nice job documenting the Tick Performance splash guard, so I don't have much to add. Just a couple views. I put a light dab of blue Loctite on those #6 serrated nuts. Don’t want those falling down into the gear box…Uff da!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220537&d=1761142846


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220538&d=1761142846


McLeod TOB installed with required clearance. They recommend adding a piece of rubber hose over the 5/16” braided flex lines to protect them where they exit the bellhousing. Good idea!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220536&d=1761142846


And, finally everything together. The rope was used to lift the T-56 off my workbench with my HF engine hoist. I used HF dollies to scoot it around and into position.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220539&d=1761142846

[JimStone]

Nice work Chris!

Thanks for the tip on adding some protection to the TOB flex lines. I could definitely see that area rubbing

It certainly would've been easier to have gotten the engine/trans as an already assembled package, but I did the same as you and enjoyed learning how it all fits together and works.

Looking forward to seeing it in the car!

[PNWTim]

You're chugging right along! Really good work and like Jim said, can't wait to see that double chunk of aluminum in the car.

[Lugnut Mark]

Yeeee haaaaa let’s do a burnout …. That’s me yelling when you get that thing fired up ….looks great nice job!

[460.465USMC]

Nice work Chris!

Thanks for the tip on adding some protection to the TOB flex lines. I could definitely see that area rubbing

It certainly would've been easier to have gotten the engine/trans as an already assembled package, but I did the same as you and enjoyed learning how it all fits together and works.

Looking forward to seeing it in the car!

One more true confession: assembling the trans to the motor is one of those no-brainer tasks for our experienced friends here on the forum. But for me, victory wasn't clear until the T-56 locating pins slipped into the bellhousing. That's when I realized, "Hey, I did it!" I love that feeling.


You're chugging right along! Really good work and like Jim said, can't wait to see that double chunk of aluminum in the car.

Thanks, Tim. Just pecking away bit by bit as often as I can get out to the garage. It's truly amazing how progress stacks up over time, even though I often have nothing to show for my efforts on a daily basis.


Yeeee haaaaa let’s do a burnout …. That’s me yelling when you get that thing fired up ….looks great nice job!

Exactly! Can't wait! I'm having a blast.

[460.465USMC]

Before I set the drivetrain aside, I installed the starter motor. I don’t believe it will be a point of interference when I stab in the drivertrain, so one more thing off the shelf. I saved a few bucks and ordered WAI brand (3267N), the same starter Forte supplied for my Gen3 Coyote build.

Next up was making a bracket system for the Moroso coolant tank. Yep, I'm doing this mod again. Highly functional, and follows the Ford design. Works for me.

Decided to follow Edwarb's really cool design (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-5-000-Mile-Report&p=341133&viewfull=1#post341133) but knew it would be tricky. This is the deep end of the fabrication pool (for me). But why not give it a whirl, right?

A lesson learned to pass along, this mod should be done before installing the radiator rear duct panel. It would have been so much easier to locate the nutserts for the largest piece of the bracket system in the chassis tubes without that panel in the way. (Now I see why Edwardb wisely did this beforehand). Also, this would be much more difficult to do after the drivetrain is installed.

I picked up remnant pieces of .090 aluminum for the main bracket piece, and some .080 (5052 for the 90 deg angles) for the smaller support brackets. Plus, a short piece of ½” aluminum bar. All for $20 cash at my local metal supplier. (Not to mention some additional bar stock for my upcoming PCM mount, and dead pedal). Gotta love that place!

Getting back to my Neanderthal roots: big hammer. Block of wood. Beat to fit: Paint to match. It’s my only option to bend material this thick.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220973&d=1762100039


Here are the various pieces of the system. Some "extra" parts not found in Edwardb's are the two smaller rectangular pieces. I found a gap between the bottom of the right triangle bracket where it attaches to the main bracket. Not wanting to redo that triangle bracket, I made these spacers. Also, the round spacer is needed between the smaller 3/4" chassis tube, because it sits forward of the 1" tube by about 1/8" or so. There's a piece of black 5/8" heater hose (sliced in half) within the welded U-shape as an insulator.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220974&d=1762100039


A couple views of it altogether.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220975&d=1762100039


Whoops! The rectangle spacers I mentioned above are just barely visible here. Won't be seen once installed, and this thing is still solid as a rock with them. My hat is off to Edwarb on his design.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220976&d=1762100039


View from below once installed. The brackets will be coated black.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220978&d=1762100120


View from above. I'm using Napa's version (THM 703-4112) of Ford's pressure cap (DG9Z-8100-A).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220977&d=1762100039


I really enjoyed this challenge. And, since I have the right tools out, I'm going to continue the bracket making and fab one for the PCM, and attempt a dead pedal. Should be fun.

[JimStone]

Looks great, like it came from the factory with that bracket.

The lay person won't appreciate the results of these fine garage engineering moments, but we do. Keep up the good work

[PNWTim]

You beat me to it Chris. I too need to make this bracket and since my fabrication skills are somewhere below Neanderthal (thinking Australopithecus), I have been dragging my feet. I was also going to make a PCM bracket but since I decided to punch mine through the firewall, I'm off the hook on that.

I like the cap too. I have been looking at alternatives and hadn't seen that one.

[edwardb]

Nice work. Looks very familiar. :cool: Glad it worked for you. Planning to do something similar with my current Mk5 Roadster build. But don't know how much it will be like that version.

[Lugnut Mark]

Nice fab work! If it ain’t custom then we didn’t build it ourselves. Great work.