Colorado Cobra Build - Building a feemer maybe.

[danmas]

I ordered my kit in 2022 and it was delivered in May of 2023. The community helped me a lot with my build planning. Here is my current BOM.


COSMETIC/Interior
16613 - Powder coated chassis – Black, includes powder coated driver’s side roll bar
12070 - Body with cut-outs of side pipes, body mounts, lighting accessories, gas cap, roll-bars, windshield posts, and side louver openings
16004 - Vintage Factory Five/Smiths Style GPS Gauges (mph)
12469 - Brake Duct Wire Mesh, preformed
15635 - Center Dash Support
15760 - The 14” Leather Steering Wheel Upgrade
16808 - Trunk Gas Strut Kit
17138 - Dash Components

Stoneleigh Intatrim seats https://intatrim.co.uk/products/stoneleigh/
Breeze Roll Bar Parts Kit, 1-3/4", Carbon Steel × 2
FFMetal Firewall Forward Kit
FFMetal Fat Tire F-Panel
i.e. 427 Drop Trunk
i.e. 427 Turn Signal Modification
Hardtop

Clutch:
34158 - Hydraulic Clutch Master Cylinder Kit (requires customer supplied slave cylinder and hydraulic throw-out bearing)

Front Suspension/Power Steering
16799 - Power steering kit (requires pump and bracket)
12066 - Standard Width Tubular Front Lower Control Arms
16116 - Front Swaybar

Brakes:
Wilwood AERO6 Big Brake Front Brake Kit - Red Powder Coat Caliper - GT Slotted Rotor Levy Racing
Wilwood AERO4-MC4 Big Brake Rear Parking Brake Kit - Red Powder Coat Caliper - GT Slotted Rotor Levy Racing

Rear:
16668 - 2018 Mustang IRS 3.55 Center Section, Spindles, and Hubs
17120 - 2015 Mustang-based Independent Rear Suspension Kit with KONI coil-overs, tubular control arms, and CV axles
15945 - 2015-2017 Mustang IRS Manual Driveshaft Adapter

Engine/DriveTrain:
13083 - 302/351W Mounts
16038 - A 31 spline driveshaft for 302/351W with Tremec TKX/TKO transmission and 2015 IRS
Metco Driveshaft Safety Loop, Factory Five Mk III & Mk IV Roadster

Transmission:
* Tremec TKX 5-speed transmission
* Ram clutch kit
* Ram flywheel
* Quick Time bellhousing
* Summit Racing™ clutch fork
* ARP flywheel bolts
* ARP pressure plate bolts
* Ford Racing pilot bushing
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-CSUMFFC07

Engine:
351 Windsor (427 CI) @ ~550HP
Ford Motorsports block
Block kit
Scat or Eagle forged rotating assembly
Custom hydraulic roller cam kit
AFR Heads
Roller rockers
Custom push rods
Valve cover
MSD ignition [Dist, coil,wires, 6AL box]
8 Stack EFI weber from Jim Inglese

Headers/Pipes
Gas-N Pipes Factory 5 Stainless Steel Side Pipes, Black Ceramic Coating / Touring - Quietest Sound
351 Long Tube Stainless Steel Headers Factory 5 - 1-3/4" / Black Ceramic Coating / Adjustable Double Collector


Wheels:
18x11 Matte Black Wheel Konig Hypergram 5x4.5 15
18x9.5 Matte Black Wheel Konig Hypergram 5x4.5 25

Tires:
Falken Azenis RT660 Tires
Rear:
Tires, Azenis RT660, 315/30R18, Radial, Blackwall, UTQG 200
Front:
Tires, Azenis RT660, 255/35R18, Radial, Blackwall, UTQG 200

Keyless Start (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?36627-460-465USMC-s-MK4-Build-9890-Trunk-Lid-and-Trunk-Prop-Rod&p=483625&viewfull=1#post483625)
Likely going to just do what 465USMC did

[Mike.Bray]

Very nice! Love the SBF. Welcome to the fun!

Are you planning on taking it to the track? Just curious about the sway bars.

[danmas]

I think so, but, not a lot

[danmas]

Ordered an 8 stack EFI system from Jim Inglese.
182265

[Mike.Bray]

ordered an 8 stack EFI system from Jim Inglese.
182265

Very nice! Jim will take good care of you.

[danmas]

Engine:
351 Windsor (427 CI) @ ~550HP
Dart or Ford Motorsports block
Block kit
Scat or Eagle forged rotating assembly
Custom hydraulic roller cam kit
AFR Heads
Roller rockers
Custom push rods
Valve cover
MSD ignition [Dist, coil,wires, 6AL box]

[danmas]

I am considering these wheels to go with my build. I haven't made up my mind yet, but, thought I would check with you all.

182399

Fronts: 18x9.5
Volk Racing CE28 Club Racer II Black Edition Wheel 18x9.5 5x114.3 22mm Diamond Dark Gunmetal (https://www.vividracing.com/volk-racing-ce28-club-racer-black-edition-wheel-18x95-5x1143-22mm-diamond-dark-gunmetal-p-152414468.html?cat=6424)

I don't know if a +22 offset is too close?

Rear: 18x10.5
Volk Racing CE28 Club Racer II Black Edition Wheel 18x10.5 5x114.3 15mm Diamond Dark Gunmetal (https://www.vividracing.com/ce28_club-racer-black-edition-c-17555.html?diameter=18&width=10.5)

15mm offset. I have heard/read that 18x11 is the preferred choice for the rear, which seems reasonable, but, Gordon Levy point me towards these wheels. Thoughts?

[Papa]

Congrats, Dan! Hope to see you on the road when you get it done. Give me a shout if you need a hand.

Dave

[KayzDad]

My kit should arrive in mid-April, and is configured similar to yours. Looking forward to following your progress!

[danmas]

I will take you up on your offer! Never dropped an engine in a car before, so, lot of firsts for me..... Thanks for your advice on the engine and EFI!

[danmas]

Decided on these after working with Gordon for a few days. Need them because of the massive brakes.

Wheels:
18x11 Matte Black Wheel Konig Hypergram 5x4.5 15
18x9.5 Matte Black Wheel Konig Hypergram 5x4.5 25


Also think I purchased the hardtop to go with the roadster that @madfor67 was selling. Going to be a fun build!

And I had to order different rollbars.
Breeze Roll Bar Parts Kit, 1-3/4", Carbon Steel (https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/roll-bar-parts-kit-1-3-4-carbon-steel/) × 2

[zarnold]

Engine:
351 Windsor (427 CI) @ ~550HP
Dart or Ford Motorsports block
Block kit
Scat or Eagle forged rotating assembly
Custom hydraulic roller cam kit
AFR Heads
Roller rockers
Custom push rods
Valve cover
MSD ignition [Dist, coil,wires, 6AL box]

Are you planning on building the engine yourself ?

[danmas]

Are you planning on building the engine yourself ?

Not this time around. I don't have the skill. I am having it built by a shop that Jim Inglese uses. In the future I have ambitions of getting to that level of detail. Right now its all about getting my first car together.

Dan

[jvfitz]

Not this time around. I don't have the skill. I am having it built by a shop that Jim Inglese use. In the future I have ambitions of getting to that level of detail. Right now its all about getting my first car together.

DanDan, I live in "Parker" and my kit is to be picked up by Stewart April 15th. I am waiting to hear from Stewart for a delivery date. It sounds like we will be building at the same time. I will keep watching your thread. By the way I went and got the full tour at Papa Dave's garage. It was worth the time. I appreciate all the knowledge he has and shared with my son and I. We are building together.
John

[danmas]

Dan, I live in "Parker" and my kit is to be picked up by Stewart April 15th. I am waiting to hear from Stewart for a delivery date. It sounds like we will be building at the same time. I will keep watching your thread. By the way I went and got the full tour at Papa Dave's garage. It was worth the time. I appreciate all the knowledge he has and shared with my son and I. We are building together.
John

He has been advising me for a couple years now. I redid my entire engine build based on his advice. I haven't made it down yet to see his kit. I actually am incredibly grateful to this community so far. I have spent the last 7 months or so thinking about the building and learning a bit every time I come here. Nights that I can't sleep I typically check in here.

I think yours is coming before mine. I am building with my three daughters. Love to hear how your build goes. I think my next task is to build body buck and so forth.

What does your config look like? Post your build thread? As an aside Junbug is here as well and ahead of us. He found a pretty awesome powder coating shop.

[danmas]

Just got my call from Factory Five and solidified the order. Stewart transportation has me on the books and sometime in early May I will be a brand new cobra dad.

Yay!

Dan

[JV1953]

Hi Dan,

Congratulations!

I have a frame dolly that I am finished using it is yours if you want it. I'm in Firestone.

[danmas]

Yes!~ PM Sent

[danmas]

Got these picture for the hardtop I got from @Madfor67. It is possibly going to be the very first thing I get for the car (which seems backwards I suppose). None the less I am pretty excited!
182893182894182895

[Junbug]

I am considering these wheels to go with my build. I haven't made up my mind yet, but, thought I would check with you all.

182399

Fronts: 18x9.5
Volk Racing CE28 Club Racer II Black Edition Wheel 18x9.5 5x114.3 22mm Diamond Dark Gunmetal (https://www.vividracing.com/volk-racing-ce28-club-racer-black-edition-wheel-18x95-5x1143-22mm-diamond-dark-gunmetal-p-152414468.html?cat=6424)

I don't know if a +22 offset is too close?

Rear: 18x10.5
Volk Racing CE28 Club Racer II Black Edition Wheel 18x10.5 5x114.3 15mm Diamond Dark Gunmetal (https://www.vividracing.com/ce28_club-racer-black-edition-c-17555.html?diameter=18&width=10.5)

15mm offset. I have heard/read that 18x11 is the preferred choice for the rear, which seems reasonable, but, Gordon Levy point me towards these wheels. Thoughts?

Dan,
If you haven’t completely made up your mind on your wheels. I recommend looking into Forgestar. I just gave them the FFR offset and backspacing specs for the wheels and they custom build them for what I thought was a reasonable price. And they offered free shipping when I ordered. Either way you go I’m sure they’ll look good!
Please reach out if you have any questions. My kit was delivered in Jan!
-Bryan

[danmas]

Dan,
If you haven’t completely made up your mind on your wheels. I recommend looking into Forgestar. I just gave them the FFR offset and backspacing specs for the wheels and they custom build them for what I thought was a reasonable price. And they offered free shipping when I ordered. Either way you go I’m sure they’ll look good!
Please reach out if you have any questions. My kit was delivered in Jan!
-Bryan
Thanks! I ordered a set of Konigs and they showed up today actually. Sick looking wheel. I think these will work.

[danmas]

Tires:
Nitto NT555 Gen 2
2 x 255/45/18 diameter 26.7 for 18 x 8.5 / 9/ 9.5 inch wheel.
2 x 315/40/18 diameter 27.91 for 18 x 11 /12 inch wheel.

[topherchrisb]

I can't wait to see your wheels. I was bummed to hear about the leave time on the Volks... I hadn't seen those till your post and my are the good looking! I have been going to Forgestar's site a lot and looking at their offerings but couldn't find anything in the proper size. I'm glad to hear Junbug got some help when interacting with them directly and I'll likely do the same. Now looking at his build I'm afraid I might end up picking the same set! I'm not a complete copy cat I swear.

CO front range is funny. I grew up in Del Camino right next to JV1953's Firestone. Because of that I went to Mead all through elementary and middle school. Before now living in Frederick (about three miles from the house I grew up in) I lived in Lafayette near Wanaka lake. I have a little bit of family in Mead and I know a number of people out there.

[danmas]

183023

Wheels!

[danmas]

Talked to i.e.427Garage and scored an unused RT drop trunk and old style trunk lid that will fit my hard top. Got my FFMetal Firewall Forward and fat tire wheel wells. Parts are starting to come in.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Tires:
Nitto NT555 Gen 2
2 x 255/45/18 diameter 26.7 for 18 x 8.5 / 9/ 9.5 inch wheel.
2 x 315/40/18 diameter 27.91 for 18 x 11 /12 inch wheel.

You might want to give some thought to those tire sizes; the 255/45-18 is approximately 1.7" larger in diameter than the usual 255/35-18 or 255/40-17 which are both 25.0". In the rear the 315/40-18 is over 2" larger in diameter than the usual 315/30-18 (25.5") or 315/35-17 (25.7"). Unless you run an unusually high ride height I'm afraid you may find that you have conflict, especially if the rim's offsets move the tires farther outward than the FFR wheels.

Jeff

[danmas]

You might want to give some thought to those tire sizes; the 255/45-18 is approximately 1.7" larger in diameter than the usual 255/35-18 or 255/40-17 which are both 25.0". In the rear the 315/40-18 is over 2" larger in diameter than the usual 315/30-18 (25.5") or 315/35-17 (25.7"). Unless you run an unusually high ride height I'm afraid you may find that you have conflict, especially if the rim's offsets move the tires farther outward than the FFR wheels.

Jeff

Ugh. Guess I will see. This is what Gordon suggested (255-265 fronts and 305-315 rears) so this is what I got. I didnt even think to check if it would fit in the wheel wells. If its wrong I am sure it won't be the first mistake I make. Thanks for the heads up.

[i.e.427]

When ever someone asks about wheel and tire fitment for one of these cars I always steer them to the FactoryFiveParts website. Pick your wheel diameter and scroll down to fitment and recommended tire sizes. https://www.factoryfiveparts.com/15812-18-halibrand-style-replica-wheels/

[danmas]

When ever someone asks about wheel and tire fitment for one of these cars I always steer them to the FactoryFiveParts website. Pick your wheel diameter and scroll down to fitment and recommended tire sizes. https://www.factoryfiveparts.com/15812-18-halibrand-style-replica-wheels/

I have this thing where I consistently order the wrong thing. I am not certain why, but, given half a chance to pick the wrong size I do it 90% of the time. Anyway, returning and getting the right set. Probably Michelin Pilot Sport

Rears:
Michelin 09883 - Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 Tires
Tire, Pilot Sport PS2, 315/30-18, Radial, Y Speed Rated, 98 Load Range, Blackwall

Fronts:
Michelin 27579 - Michelin Pilot Sport 4 S Tires
Tires, Pilot Sport 4 S, 255/35-18, Radial, Blackwall, Y Speed Rating, 94 Load Index

Before I pull the trigger on these is there anything I am missing?

I also picked up a pair of pipes and headers from George over at Gas-N.

[Papa]

I have this thing where I consistently order the wrong thing. I am not certain why, but, given half a chance to pick the wrong size I do it 90% of the time. Anyway, returning and getting the right set. Probably Michelin Pilot Sport

Rears:
Michelin 09883 - Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 Tires
Tire, Pilot Sport PS2, 315/30-18, Radial, Y Speed Rated, 98 Load Range, Blackwall

Fronts:
Michelin 27579 - Michelin Pilot Sport 4 S Tires
Tires, Pilot Sport 4 S, 255/35-18, Radial, Blackwall, Y Speed Rating, 94 Load Index

Before I pull the trigger on these is there anything I am missing?

I also picked up a pair of pipes and headers from George over at Gas-N.

Dan,

The Michelin PS2 and PS4S are similar tread designs, but different compounds. I'm not sure it makes any difference for street use, but will defer to others that may have more technical info to share.

Dave

[Jeff Kleiner]

I have this thing where I consistently order the wrong thing. I am not certain why, but, given half a chance to pick the wrong size I do it 90% of the time. Anyway, returning and getting the right set. Probably Michelin Pilot Sport

Rears:
Michelin 09883 - Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 Tires
Tire, Pilot Sport PS2, 315/30-18, Radial, Y Speed Rated, 98 Load Range, Blackwall

Fronts:
Michelin 27579 - Michelin Pilot Sport 4 S Tires
Tires, Pilot Sport 4 S, 255/35-18, Radial, Blackwall, Y Speed Rating, 94 Load Index

Before I pull the trigger on these is there anything I am missing?

I also picked up a pair of pipes and headers from George over at Gas-N.

I'm not a fan of mismatched tires front to rear in any case (unless you're talking snow tires on an old 2WD pickup truck that hauls firewood ;)). Those Michelin that you spec have a harder compound for the front than the rear---with the factory spring rates these cars understeer to begin with and using a tire with less traction in the front will just exacerbate that condition. If it were me I'd just put Falken RT660s all around. But you're not me... With that said I'll say one more thing; unless you're planning a really quick build I wouldn't buy any tires yet. They're just going to sit, age and get hard. Wait until you have a running gocart to mount up fresh tires and in the meantime spend a hundred bucks on a set of junkyard wheels and "skins" to roll it around.

Jeff

[danmas]

...I'd just put Falken RT660s all around. But you're not me... With that said I'll say one more thing; unless you're planning a really quick build I wouldn't buy any tires yet. They're just going to sit, age and get hard. Wait until you have a running gocart to mount up fresh tires and in the meantime spend a hundred bucks on a set of junkyard wheels and "skins" to roll it around.

Jeff

This is great advice and exactly what I will do in terms of getting crufty wheels and skins to roll around on. Thanks for the pointer on the rt660s, this is the kind of expert advice I need. Thank you...

[i.e.427]

unless you're planning a really quick build I wouldn't buy any tires yet. They're just going to sit, age and get hard. Wait until you have a running gocart to mount up fresh tires and in the meantime spend a hundred bucks on a set of junkyard wheels and "skins" to roll it around.

Jeff

Kleiner and I agree on this point. Most tires on these cars age out before they wear out. Save the expensive tires until you're ready for them. Until then, find a cheap set of Mustang wheels & tires to push it around in the shop. 17" so they clear even the Wilwood calipers.

Frank

[danmas]

Kleiner and I agree on this point. Most tires on these cars age out before they wear out. Save the expensive tires until you're ready for them. Until then, find a cheap set of Mustang wheels & tires to push it around in the shop. 17" so they clear even the Wilwood calipers.

Frank

Done. These are on my to order list:
Falken Azenis RT660 Tires
Rear:
Tires, Azenis RT660, 315/30R18, Radial, Blackwall, UTQG 200
Front:
Tires, Azenis RT660, 255/35R18, Radial, Blackwall, UTQG 200

Looking for crufty tires to roll the chassis around until I need them. Thanks Frank and Jeff.

[Papa]

Done. These are on my to order list:
Falken Azenis RT660 Tires
Rear:
Tires, Azenis RT660, 315/30R18, Radial, Blackwall, UTQG 200
Front:
Tires, Azenis RT660, 255/35R18, Radial, Blackwall, UTQG 200

Looking for crufty tires to roll the chassis around until I need them. Thanks Frank and Jeff.

Something like this? https://cosprings.craigslist.org/wto/d/colorado-springs-r17-on-mustang-wheels/7603414961.html

[danmas]

Just got my inventory sheet and Parts on Order List (POL) today. Only 15 items back ordered. Serial #1010663. Stewart transportation should drop off on Wednesday or Thursday!
Brakes and shocks coming from Gordon Levy.
Engine and transmission being built.
Quiet pipes on order (maybe another 8 weeks or so I am guessing).

I am fairly excited to get started!

[danmas]

Kelly with Stewart Transportation showed up at 8AM or so this morning. Took about 30 minutes to unload and that involved some paperwork issues (Blue sign on nose wasn't my blue sign. Chassis ID is correct tho!). My daughter got to take the first ride.


And so it begins. Inventory this weekend.

184328184329184330184331184332

[JV1953]

Congratulations!!! Enjoy!

[jvfitz]

Congratulations! Let the fun begin. By the way the car looks good on her....

[danmas]

Inventory complete. About 6 small items missing. 15 or so items on back order. Body removed. Have it hanging in the garage for a day or two while I get it over to my buddies storage shed. And so it begins!

184490184491

[zarnold]

Awesome! I'm following along, and looking forward to your build.

[MSlaughter]

I'll be following your build. I've been considering the 17" Konig wheels for awhile and I'm looking forward to pictures of yours on the car. Enjoy your build! I'm having a great time! Keep coming back to the forum. Priceless!!

[MSlaughter]

zarnold, Are you a builder in Park Ridge? I'm right down the road.

[egchewy79]

let the fun begin.
put in a cockpit brace to keep the body from flexing or hang it from the wheel wells instead of looping through the side vent holes.

[danmas]

let the fun begin.
put in a cockpit brace to keep the body from flexing or hang it from the wheel wells instead of looping through the side vent holes.
Yes, good tip!

[danmas]

Hi everyone,

Spent a bit of time sorting parts and mucking about since the kit arrived. I ordered Aero6 big brakes from Gordon Levy, Aero 4 rear brakes, and QA 1 shocks and springs. The front are 600# and the rear are 400# springs.

I haven't torqued anything down yet and I wanted to dry fit things. Couple questions:

1. The top strut bolt looks way too long. The manual says to use 3.25", which is what i used.
2. The bottom strut bolt looks a bit long as well, although not as bad (2.75").
3. I have the control knobs for the shocks facing out as I don't see any other way to make them more accessible. I will likely have to pull the wheel to adjust. (Maybe?). Anyone else use QA1s and how did you mount them.
4. The QA1 have a different size sleeve. The bottom mount is 1.45". The sleeve is 1" leaving roughly .22" on either side of the mount to fill with a spacer. I have 1/2" stock I can cut down, but, 2 1/2" washers on either side seems to work as well, with the exception that the struts mounts fittings touch the washers when I do max rotation. I am sure there is some sleeve play. Anything to worry about here? This is a dry fit so I will likely cut the sleeves down anyway, but, maybe it isn't necessary.

5. The UCAs dial in just right at 8.5" zirc to zirc for the rear arms. I am still going to cut them down, but, it doesn't look necessary.

Finally, does anything look off to you all?

Thanks!
Dan
184764184765184767

22 May 23
UPDATE:

1&2. I just went with the bolts and nuts the manual told me to use. I could probably have cut down the top one, but, I decided not to over think it.

3. Knobs facing out or towards the back of the car. Easy enough to rotate them, but, they are also top mounted.

4. I cut down the .43" spacers to work with my QA1 for the bottom and I have the top dialed in as well. Bottom spacers are
~.22" and the top spacers are ~.5"

5. The sleeves are cut down. Pretty easy with a cut off tool and my bench grinder. I cut them right to the hex on the sleeve. Probably could have done with 1/2 that, but, its what other did. There is ~1/3rd of an inch on either side now with the back leg set to 8.5". If you are like me and cut down the wrong sleeve, don't panic, they are interchangeable.

Tomorrow I will torque them down, so, if anyone sees anything off I would appreciate a shout out before I lock them down.

Thanks!
Dan

[zarnold]

Hi everyone,

Spent a bit of time sorting parts and mucking about since the kit arrived. I ordered Aero6 big brakes from Gordon Levy, Aero 4 rear brakes, and QA 1 shocks and springs. The front are 600# and the rear are 400# springs.

I haven't torqued anything down yet and I wanted to dry fit things. Couple questions:

1. The top strut bolt looks way too long. The manual says to use 3.25", which is what i used.
2. The bottom strut bolt looks a bit long as well, although not as bad (2.75").
.
.
.
.
Thanks!
Dan

Comparing what you have to other builds, those are a little long. I'd hold off just a little, somebody with more experience than me is bound to reply :-).

[flyboyjy]

Hey just looked the pictures of your front suspension. The shocks need to be turned upside down, the knob is at the bottom.
184898184899184900 Here are pictures of mine.

[danmas]

Hey just looked the pictures of your front suspension. The shocks need to be turned upside down, the knob is at the bottom.
184898184899184900 Here are pictures of mine.

Gordon said either way was fine but make sure you can get to the knobs. I figured it would be easier at the top... But, can go either way... Thinking about it, with the car on the wheels, the suspension will be closer to the top... Or maybe not. Hmmm..

[danmas]

Its been about 30 days or so since the kit arrived. In that time I have completed the front suspension, brakes and power steering rack. I have installed the differential and I have the rear control arms prepped and ready to go.

Lessons learned:

1. I suck at sheet metal work.
2. Having the right tools makes a huge difference. I tried to do the rear spindle studs with a sacrificial nut and I borked them up. So I put in a 20 Ton press in my garage and it went in like butter.
3. Drilling out (chasing) the rear mounting holes in the differential can break your arm or really hurt you. Make sure the differential is solidly mounted and go stupid slow with the drill. My bit seized a few times and the drill went flying into my wrist really hard. Go slow. Use oil. Go slow.
4. Mounting the differential is possible single handed if you use tie down straps, some sort of overhead lift (I have an over head winch) and a jack. I am also 6'4" and pretty strong so my wing span and muscles helped a lot. Be careful tho.

Anyway, she is coming along. Enjoy your build friends. I had to solve about 10 hard problems over the last few days and it is pretty fun.

Thanks!
Dan

[danmas]

Update:

1. IRS is in as is the differential. It is totally possible to do it on your own but much easier with a hoist or gantry cane or something.
2. Lower control arms on both sides needed the mount tabs spread about 1/4”. I used two bolts and a couple of nuts. Mount one to one ear fairly tight. Take the second bolt and nut combo through the other ear and the drive the bolt against the first bolt to spread them. It is pretty tough and you have to go a bit more than you think because they snap back a bit. But doable.
3. Missing parts stink. I have had to order 5/8th 11 flange lock nuts, jam nuts and spacers. McMaster and Summit are great sources. One of the parts bags just says IRS Fastners 17157. You don’t know what is supposed to be in there until it shows up missing. I suppose I should lay out the parts and inventory them before I start on any new task and I will moving forward. Missing parts just stop you in the middle of your build session.
4. Install the sway bars at the same time you are doing the suspension (front and rear). Read ahead on the instructions because they require different bolts and connections to either shocks (front) or lower control arms (rear). Some people in the community don’t like sway bars, but disconnecting them takes only one bolt and five minutes. Installing them after the fact can take several hours. Also if you put a bit of load on the suspension the bars are easier to connect.

You are definitely going to want a 20, 22 and 24 metric wrench.
Tow straps or tie down straps are helpful for holding things up while you wrench.
Never underestimate the persuasion power of a BFH.
Power tools are not so good for this part of the build. Better to use hand tools I think.
A lift is enormously helpful. And rolling chairs.

Ton of fun so far. Pictures to follow.

Dan

[Hoooper]

Also if you put a bit of load on the suspension the bars are easier to connect.

Sway bar links need to be adjusted with the car on the ground with all the weight on it, then the links adjusted so that both side bolts easily go in. If this isn't done the bar will be putting more force on one side of the car than the other.

[danmas]

Sway bar links need to be adjusted with the car on the ground with all the weight on it, then the links adjusted so that both side bolts easily go in. If this isn't done the bar will be putting more force on one side of the car than the other.

Cool. I will keep it loose until it is under load and then do the adjustment. Thanks!

[Junbug]

Update:

1. IRS is in as is the differential. It is totally possible to do it on your own but much easier with a hoist or gantry cane or something.
2. Lower control arms on both sides needed the mount tabs spread about 1/4”. I used two bolts and a couple of nuts. Mount one to one ear fairly tight. Take the second bolt and nut combo through the other ear and the drive the bolt against the first bolt to spread them. It is pretty tough and you have to go a bit more than you think because they snap back a bit. But doable.
3. Missing parts stink. I have had to order 5/8th 11 flange lock nuts, jam nuts and spacers. McMaster and Summit are great sources. One of the parts bags just says IRS Fastners 17157. You don’t know what is supposed to be in there until it shows up missing. I suppose I should lay out the parts and inventory them before I start on any new task and I will moving forward. Missing parts just stop you in the middle of your build session.
4. Install the sway bars at the same time you are doing the suspension (front and rear). Read ahead on the instructions because they require different bolts and connections to either shocks (front) or lower control arms (rear). Some people in the community don’t like sway bars, but disconnecting them takes only one bolt and five minutes. Installing them after the fact can take several hours. Also if you put a bit of load on the suspension the bars are easier to connect.

You are definitely going to want a 20, 22 and 24 metric wrench.
Tow straps or tie down straps are helpful for holding things up while you wrench.
Never underestimate the persuasion power of a BFH.
Power tools are not so good for this part of the build. Better to use hand tools I think.
A lift is enormously helpful. And rolling chairs.

Ton of fun so far. Pictures to follow.

Dan

Looking good! Keep on making progress! I had to do the same spreading to get the LCA's installed... Used the similar method...long bolt and a few nuts to open the tabs up. Incremental so I didn't go too far.

[danmas]

Today I assembled the 2 Ton engine lift from Summit. I also tightened down the rear suspension and checked the torque. Finally I installed the calipers and brake pads for the rear along with the electronic emergency brake kit. None of it was challenging but it took a bit of time to get everything tight and fitting right. I suppose the next thing is to run the hard brake lines and drop in the gas tank. Its coming along pretty fast actually. A few pictures.

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[danmas]

Long day at work so I took a little time to myself tonight. Dry fit the powder coated FFMetal fat tire panels. I also set up the FFMetal firewall forward for drilling later this week. Nice product by the way. Super solid and the metal is pre-drilled which means I only have to drill the the crossbars.

Then I thought I should try out the wheels. Feels like they work pretty well. Tons of clearance and I think they look great. I am going for a black out build which means I may need to swap out the rotors, but, I think the red pops nicely and it is easy to do and not required for right now. Anyway, she is coming along.

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[Junbug]

Long day at work so I took a little time to myself tonight. Dry fit the powder coated FFMetal fat tire panels. I also set up the FFMetal firewall forward for drilling later this week. Nice product by the way. Super solid and the metal is pre-drilled which means I only have to drill the the crossbars.

Then I thought I should try out the wheels. Feels like they work pretty well. Tons of clearance and I think they look great. I am going for a black out build which means I may need to swap out the rotors, but, I think the red pops nicely and it is easy to do and not required for right now. Anyway, she is coming along.

187849
Looks great! I’m also going for a blacked out look but chose black wilwood calipers and matte bronze wheels…. Trying to decide on tires right now.

[Gordon Levy]

The black E coated rotors are only black until the first time you use the brakes. Everything looks good.

[danmas]

The black E coated rotors are only black until the first time you use the brakes. Everything looks good.

I think so as well and I also really appreciate your help and advice. Its gonna be a great system.

[danmas]

Looks great! I’m also going for a blacked out look but chose black wilwood calipers and matte bronze wheels…. Trying to decide on tires right now.

Jeff Kleiner listened to me hand wring for a bit and suggested:

Falken Azenis RT660 Tires
Rear: Azenis RT660, 315/30R18, Radial, Blackwall, UTQG 200
Front: Azenis RT660, 255/35R18, Radial, Blackwall, UTQG 200

I ordered them from Summit (yes, probably too soon. I looked and looked for junk wheels and finally just decided it was more important to me to make everything fit). I think they look great although I only have the rears so far.
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[Gordon Levy]

Continental Force tire are awesome. Many of the NASA TT guys are running them as they work really well within the rules and really stick.

[danmas]

Hard to believe a month has gone by. I haven't done as much as I would have liked since the last post. I got the lift all assembled and set up. Shout out to Wildfire lifts for all you builder types. Its an awesome mobile four post lift. I also got my firewall forward drilled and ready for powder coating. I did some work on the D/S footbox. I am going to drop it about 1.5 inches, get a new stiffer bottom made (.100 at least). I got the foot pedal assembly drilled and ready for installation and am just starting on the steering stuff. Probably will test fit it and then ship things off for power coating. I got my Tremac TKX transmission and clutch. Waiting on the bell housing. Richard Oban sent me his AirCon Kit. I have plenty of boxes sitting around right now. Not gonna lie, it gets a bit overwhelming at times. I think that all the suspension and brakes and what not was pretty fun for me and in my wheel house (see what I did there?) but I have ventured into the great unknown with this stuff. I have a Frank (i.e.427) drop trunk coming which makes me all happy inside. I also was lucky enough to get on the first run of the i.e.427 turn signals. I am excited about that.

My engine is getting closer. Supply chain has caused everyone some grief but I am hopeful that I will have something in the next 30 days or so.

Darryl sent me these pictures. Getting excited.

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Another shout out to all the experts here willing to help a newbie. You have no idea how much it is appreciated.

Dan

[rponfick]

Dan, I am over in SW Loveland with a year-old Mk4 with a 351W. If you ever want to compare various elements of the build, just let me know. I have previously done a Shell Valley roadster, a 3.1 FFR roadster, and the FFR '35 Hot Rod pickup.
I am retired so time is not a problem.
Ralph

[danmas]

Boom! Nothing much left to say after this....

191263191262191261

[Junbug]

Looks awesome! Cant wait to hear it roar!

[Mike.Bray]

Are those actual Webers?

[Papa]

Are those actual Webers?

I see one of Jim's tags on a coolant temperature sensor in the intake, so I'd bet that's Jim's Weber lookalike EFI setup.

[Bill Elliott]

what's the power on that beast

[cv2065]

You finally got it! Congrats. Looks great!!

[Fman]

Beautiful engine, that pulley set up also looks fantastic. 427 is a great power plant in these cars, get ready to hold on to your teeth!

[ydousurf]

Dan, the power plant is absolutely gorgeous! Love those color choices. Everytime I see those stacks, make me second guess the T-Pan setup I want do. You're moving quickly on your build. Very nice work and keep at it!

Doug

[Mike.Bray]

I see one of Jim's tags on a coolant temperature sensor in the intake, so I'd bet that's Jim's Weber lookalike EFI setup.

The fuel lines look like Weber and not EFI. That's why I asked.

[Papa]

The fuel lines look like Weber and not EFI. That's why I asked.

Jim does an amazing job making his EFI stacks look almost identical to real Weber stacks.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191340&d=1697659559

The EFI is on the left...

[Mike.Bray]

Jim does an amazing job making his EFI stacks look almost identical to real Weber stacks.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191340&d=1697659559

The EFI is on the left...

I would agree Dave. I've seen them on Jim's webpage and thought how much they emulated the Webers. I was curious if there was someone in today's world crazy enough to want to deal with Webers, especially in Colorado!

[Papa]

I would agree Dave. I've seen them on Jim's webpage and thought how much they emulated the Webers. I was curious if there was someone in today's world crazy enough to want to deal with Webers, especially in Colorado!

I've seen plenty of non-EFI stacks on cars in Colorado. Hard to say how much tuning they require, but I agree, I wouldn't want to go that route!

Dave

[Mike.Bray]

I've seen plenty of non-EFI stacks on cars in Colorado. Hard to say how much tuning they require, but I agree, I wouldn't want to go that route!

Dave

Doesn't matter where you are, Webers require tuning. A lot. Been there, done that, got the tee shirt. It's why I was a very early adopter of throttle bodies and EFI.

[Papa]

Doesn't matter where you are, Webers require tuning. A lot. Been there, done that, got the tee shirt. It's why I was a very early adopter of throttle bodies and EFI.

Yep! Good discussion, but we should probably give Dan his thread back. Sorry for the distraction, Dan. The engine is going to be a blast and will get a lot of discussion whenever you prop the hood open.

[danmas]

Yep! Good discussion, but we should probably give Dan his thread back. Sorry for the distraction, Dan. The engine is going to be a blast and will get a lot of discussion whenever you prop the hood open.

Dave

Thank you. Honestly it’s the engine you built. Your suggestions all the way around.

Thanks all for the kind words. I’m super impressed with the pictures and it looks great. Should be here on Monday. Then I have to figure out how to install it. It’s a dream engine and I’m looking forward to it.

More to come. I have been super busy lately but I will get back to things soon!

Dan

[danmas]

what's the power on that beast

Supposed to cook about 550hp

[danmas]

Well its been a long while since i posted. Lot of changes and challenges in my life but I am finally back at the car. Today I did a test fit of the engine and it fits pretty good. (As you might imagine.) The driver side engiine mount has a wing that I am not able to line up on the engine (I may have bent it when I was installing). I will yank the engine back out and see if I need to fix the mount. Couple things I learned. Easier to attach the mounts to the frame and the engine to the mounts when installing. My first go around I had the mounts on the engine and that was not working. That said, had a lot of fun today.

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Couple questions.
1. I have the engine in. Should I just leave it in and do the rest? With the lift its easy to get under the car and what not.
2. The power steering reservoir interferes with the steering column. (Gordon Levy said it would and he is right). What should I do about that? I can throw another knuckle in the steering shaft. I can also replace the reservoir. Any suggestions on the reservoir?

Thanks!
Dan

[cc2Arider]

Good to see you back to posting and looking good Dan :)

Craig C

[cv2065]

Looking good! Nice hoist system!

[danmas]

Adventures in powder coating…205731205732205733205734

I picked up this converted smoker and it works pretty well.205735

Dan

[danmas]

I had my engine built by a shop on the east coast. When I had it built I didn't really know much about what I was doing (still don't) and the engine came with a Type II power steering reservoir. It interferes with the steering shaft. After some advice and reading Mike Bray's build thread a half dozen times I ordered a remote kit from Summit and copied Mike's set up. Check out this build post from Mike (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?42007-Mike-in-Texas-FFR-Roadster-Build-Small-To-Do-Things&p=503184&viewfull=1#post503184).

Earl's Performance PS0002ERL - Earl's Performance Power Steering Adapter Fittings (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-ps0002erl).
Holley Power Steering Remote Reservoirs 198-212 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-198-212)

[danmas]

Getting ready to do fuel lines, bleed brakes, and install the engine. Today I mounted the breeze battery box. Nice little kit. Learned about rivnuts a while ago and I really like them. Make sure the rivnut is really really tight when you install or it may just spin when you try to tighten the bolt that goes in the rivnut. It might possibly take you an hour to un-**** your rivnut install and you might possibly pinch the hell out of your fingers with some vice grips. Maybe.

Anyway, battery box is in and I also installed a carbon filter for the gas tank. Not ready to mount it yet but it’s ready to go.

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[Blitzboy54]

Getting ready to do fuel lines, bleed brakes, and install the engine. Today I mounted the breeze battery box. Nice little kit. Learned about rivnuts a while ago and I really like them. Make sure the rivnut is really really tight when you install or it may just spin when you try to tighten the bolt that goes in the rivnut. It might possibly take you an hour to un-**** your rivnut install and you might possibly pinch the hell out of your fingers with some vice grips. Maybe.

Anyway, battery box is in and I also installed a carbon filter for the gas tank. Not ready to mount it yet but it’s ready to go.

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Lol, been there pal.


Gonna be a car soon. Awesome

[danmas]

Adventures as a one armed builder… I play hockey (play is maybe too strong a word given my level of talent). In August I got blown up by a goon skating hard with his head down. Yard sale. Boom. Rotator cuff surgery. Eight weeks post surgery I am slowly tackling the build again.

First a shout out to Gordon Levy who helped me with my brakes. Sweet configuration. That said I started bleeding my brakes this week. Day one was simply figuring out my plan and get the initial fluid runs. I swear I checked every line. Except for the ones I missed. That said three little leaks and I have ok brakes. Today I went in to finish the job. Tightened a few things and did a re-bleed on all four. Funny thing about the wilwood brake nipple that takes a 1/4” wrench. With the wrench on, there is no room for a hose. Maybe because they are designed for a gravity bleed (nipple to bleed is always the top one)? Anyway, I power bled them, popped the suction off and tightened down the nipple. Bam, super tight brakes. I was pushing hard with my arm on the peddle and could only get the brake peddle down about 1/2 way. Very happy. Final check of the system and I notice a drip from my reservoir to the master cylinder. No problem, I went to tighten the outlet on the bottom of the reservoir and managed to have the wrench slip off and crack the evil compression hose fitting. Sigh. Of course I don’t have the part. So I drained the reservoir, ordered the replacement part and we will do it again early next week.
Oh yeah, all of this mostly one armed.

I also chopped the extra tab of the tkx transmission to prepare for final install.

Next week, finish the brakes and run the fuel lines. That should be pretty hard as I can’t really lift my left arm past my waist (yet).

Did I have fun today? You bet! Was it great to see my brakes come together? Yes, yes it was. I felt really great until I broke the brake line. That said, easy fix and I get to feel that feeling twice. It’s a lot of fun and I’m glad I found FFR.

Onward!

[danmas]

Three steps forward, half dozen steps back. Some days you just need to avoid the shop. I finally got the powder coating done for my fuel filter hanger and a few other parts. Started making the fuel lines. Arghhhh. Wrong parts. Again. Then I noticed my brake reservoirs were leaking. Not a fan of the plugs in the back of the reservoirs. They seep. And they are made of aluminum so tightening them down was absolutely zero joy. Should have just gone with the Tilton triple. And so I did.

Some days you make great progress. Some days you go backwards. It’s a part of the journey. Nothing really to say. Just venting.

[cv2065]

Three steps forward, half dozen steps back. Some days you just need to avoid the shop. I finally got the powder coating done for my fuel filter hanger and a few other parts. Started making the fuel lines. Arghhhh. Wrong parts. Again. Then I noticed my brake reservoirs were leaking. Not a fan of the plugs in the back of the reservoirs. They seep. And they are made of aluminum so tightening them down was absolutely zero joy. Should have just gone with the Tilton triple. And so I did.

Some days you make great progress. Some days you go backwards. It’s a part of the journey. Nothing really to say. Just venting.

I'm with you. Some days are just like that! I never had any issues with the reservoirs. I used the triple Jamar one, you just have to be mindful to not overtighten the fittings.

[egchewy79]

Three steps forward, half dozen steps back. Some days you just need to avoid the shop. I finally got the powder coating done for my fuel filter hanger and a few other parts. Started making the fuel lines. Arghhhh. Wrong parts. Again. Then I noticed my brake reservoirs were leaking. Not a fan of the plugs in the back of the reservoirs. They seep. And they are made of aluminum so tightening them down was absolutely zero joy. Should have just gone with the Tilton triple. And so I did.

Some days you make great progress. Some days you go backwards. It’s a part of the journey. Nothing really to say. Just venting.

I've build/rebuilt my cobra at least 2-3x with all the set backs. Stick with it. It'll totally be worth it at the end of the journey. One of the biggest face-palm moments was when I ripped off my front battery box while doing an oil change when the jack slipped out from under the frame while jacking it up.

[Mike.Bray]

One of the biggest face-palm moments was when I ripped off my front battery box while doing an oil change when the jack slipped out from under the frame while jacking it up.

I've always been terrified of that happening which is why I made this for my jack.

https://www.imagecoast.com/images/MichaelBray1/20240604200038mediumrotated.jpg

[Nigel Allen]

The 'cobra curse' strikes again.

[danmas]

I've always been terrified of that happening which is why I made this for my jack.

https://www.imagecoast.com/images/MichaelBray1/20240604200038mediumrotated.jpg

Any chance you would make me a couple?

[Mike.Bray]

Any chance you would make me a couple?

No but you can PM me your email address and I'll send you the step file and a source to have it 3D printed.

[danmas]

The journey continues. I'm still not able to use my shoulder much so I building a bit like I imagine a T-Rex would build. Short arms tucked to my side. Anyway, I spent about an hour today mucking with my dash to try and line up where to drill the steering shaft hole. Not 100% convinced I trust the template that Factory five sent me but its close. I am essentially lining up the dash with the top of the curved bar and making sure it is level. I haven't yet installed the glove box, I expect that is a limiting factor as well. I also mounted my custom carbon filter. Thanks to CV2065 for the idea! (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?47759-CV2065-MKIV-Roadster-Build-Thread-2&p=564596&viewfull=1#post564596)

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[ydousurf]

Dan, I clamped my Carbon Fiber dash to the 3/4” hoop and loosened my steering shaft and used it to find dead-center to locate the hole to drill in the dash. I didn’t want to make any errors drilling into the CF. Just passing along that idea. Anyway, thanks for the filter tip/idea that CV2065 provided. I gave him thanks as well. I dig that filter idea and added the black & silver one to my cart. Very cool, thanks to you both!

Doug

[danmas]

Dan, I clamped my Carbon Fiber dash to the 3/4” hoop and loosened my steering shaft and used it to find dead-center to locate the hole to drill in the dash. I didn’t want to make any errors drilling into the CF. Just passing along that idea. Anyway, thanks for the filter tip/idea that CV2065 provided. I gave him thanks as well. I dig that filter idea and added the black & silver one to my cart. Very cool, thanks to you both!

Doug

Exactly what I am doing. Just trying to get the placement right. Measuring like 14 times before I draw the circle. I have to go very slow on these things or I will mess it up. So, will do it a few more times and then make my cut.

Thanks Doug!

Dan

[danmas]

Great day in the shop just doing odds and ends….

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Display is customized but could look something like this:
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Finished mounting filter:
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Now I need to figure out wiring harness….

[danmas]

Today I wired up the Wilwood electric parking brake. I used a 12v AGM battery I have in the shop for power. Its not a huge deal, but it was a lot of fun to see something I put together actually working.


https://youtu.be/hv0qzTAFao4

[gbranham]

That's pretty cool. I also have the Wilwood setup, but with the FFR manual park brake solution. I hate it. It's the only part of the build I'm really not happy with. I'm going to throw it all in the trash and buy the Wilwood electronic park brake soon. If I'm not mistaken it's a direct swap for the manual Wilwood park brake calipers.

Greg

[danmas]

I don't know. I never got brakes from FFR. Gordon Levy did my config. He can probably tell you. I really really like it.

[danmas]

Busy day at the shop. Slowly starting to work through the wire harness. I also did an another powder coat run. More to do. There are a ton of little parts that need to be done. As an aside, if anyone in Colorado wants to pop up and do a quick powder coat run I am happy to let you use my kit and help if you need it. Its frustrating and expensive to do a few little parts at the commercial shops and if you are not interested in building out your powder coat rig you can use mine. Just need to bring the powder or be content with what I have (Stone Black).

I mounted the fuel pressure regulator and dry fit where I want the E-Brake controller to go.

Pictures:

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Also laying out my engine harness and Terminator-X configuration.
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More to do. So much fun.

[gbranham]

While it may not matter (don't know), your fuel pressure regulator appears to be mounted upside down on the firewall.

Greg

[danmas]

<snort> yes, yes it does. There are mounting holes on both top and bottom and I was tired and wrapping up and not paying attention. Thank you!

[OB6]

While it may not matter (don't know), your fuel pressure regulator appears to be mounted upside down on the firewall.

Greg

Yes it is, good observation. It won't matter. I have mine mounted that way under the trunk, mostly for packaging and space purposes.

[danmas]

Yes it is, good observation. It won't matter. I have mine mounted that way under the trunk, mostly for packaging and space purposes.

Hilariously I apparently have two now. One is already installed on my EFI stack. <forehead smack!> I will asymptotically get done with this build!

[danmas]

So I spent the bulk of the evening learning everything I could about installing the terminator x. I understand it a lot better now I think but still a ton to learn. Turns out I have two fuel regulators, no oil pressure sending unit, no fuel pressure sensor and a coolant temperature sensor that is too far away from the harness. That said I ordered an extension. I’m also missing the 64253 MSD-ignition control system, so I got that going for me. Question for those of you in the know: I have a blaster 2 msd coil. It is supposedly a good one, but, I’m not sure how to mount it and I have heard anecdotally through a couple of folks that they fail rather regularly. Truth? If so, what should I got instead?

Thanks again all,


Dan

[Justin]

Very cool read. Thanks for sharing!!

[gbranham]

I have the Blaster 2, so I hope they aren't failure-prone. I got a coil bracket from Summit Racing, and mounted to the back of the driver's side cylinder head, in one of the unused bolt holes.

Check out my build thread for info on how I placed my oil temp and oil pressure sensors, and pics of how I mounted my coil. Might help you.

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[danmas]

I spent the morning ordering a fuel pressure sensor and an oil pressure sensor that will work with my config. Thanks for the tip on the summit bracket for the coil Greg. I will need to get an ignition system, so working on that. I’m debating an analog speedo for the dash but I may do that later.

[danmas]

Today I got the engine harness fully sorted, ran the light harness and started working on a modification to my fuse box location. I also did quite the dashboard dance. Sharing this on the off chance someone want to do a carbon fiber dash with the Holley 12.3” computer. It doesn’t really work.

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I wasn’t terribly precise as I was just mocking it up. The screen will be off center due to the glove box. I like the discordant old school new school, but I also like symmetry. I want an in dash console for a backup camera, maps and perhaps music. It will just look weird if it is off center. So, now I’m looking to cut out a dash and place it. Sadly I don’t have a water jet machine (yet) but this gives me the chance to work with a fabrication shop.

Happy building folks…

Dan

[Justin]

Is the carbon dash off the build table then?

[danmas]

Is the carbon dash off the build table then?

I think so for this build. But just starting the replan…

Edit: thinking about it, I’m going to go ahead and build it out with this dash.I will get it up and running and make progress instead or marinating on perfection. If I don’t like it, I will change it. Meh. It’s part of the journey.

Dan

[danmas]

Thought I would post some of my learnings. Perhaps they are only valuable to me as my memory fades.

I have a 351 Windsor that is bored and stroked to a 427.(I kind of know what that means).
I am also using the terminator x from Holley as an ecu for my engine.
It is not required that one use an oil pressure sensor for the terminator x, but since I’m going for an anachronistic black out build (think cyber punk meets mad max) my dash is all digital. And I’m sure it shocks absolutely no one that I’m off script.

And to my learnings:
The terminator x uses the same pressure sensor for both fuel and oil. Holley (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004IDQ2O8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) Sweet! It’s just money and my wife tolerates my eccentricity and so I order 2! I’m going to replace my fuel pressure gauge on my EFI harness (cause uncle Frank (I.E. 427) tells me it is the number one cause for fire in these cars). I got them both today and the fuel pressure sensor went right in.

However…
I have a dart block on my 351w (bored and stroked doncha know).
Turns out the port on the block and on the oil pan are both 1/2” npt. The pressure sensor is an m10x1. Edit: no, no it isn’t. It’s a 1/8th npt. I ordered the right part from evil.
Sweet I say! I can just get an adapter. So I madly google forte pressure sensor adapters. Amazon. Summit. Evil. All the names! Near as I can tell no one makes a 1/2” male to m10x1 female adapter. 1/4” yes! 1/2” female to m10 male (many).

So, I have a 1/2” to 1/4” npt adapter. And then I have a 1/4” to m10x1 adapter. Should work. Will let you all know.

I’m a bit snarky tonight because I’m learning (perhaps slowly) that going off script can be expensive. It’s fun and assuming I can get this thing to run and not explode it should be awesome.

I have also learned that AN wrenches are a thing and they matter. It isn’t so much that you can’t use an adjustable wrench. Of course you can. It is that these fittings are quite soft and that when you go into beast mode to tighten down your ptfe an10 fuel line fitting you will quiet possibly screw up not only the finish but also risk damaging a fitting that quite literally helps you not go boom when you are running hot fuel on a 351 Windsor (bored and stroked and so forth). I might know a little bit about this. Not the boom part. (Not yet anyway).

The good news is that using a proper a wrench I created my first ptfe fuel line and cranked 100psi into the line and it held for an hour. So I got that going for me.

I also dieted out my main engine harness a little bit more today and I converted my terminator x throttle position sensor from something that didn’t fit my tps on my 351w (bored and stroked) to something that did fit. I think it was Greg in Kansas (hey Greg!) that suggested I order the part that fits and do a little snippy snip on my harness and put it in. It worked. I also listened to Kleiner and Frank and didn’t use my wire nuts from my house to connect it. I have proper automotive connections with heat shrink and electrical tape and heat tape.

I also ordered a metal brake to fit my 20 ton press so I can make l brackets to support my dash.
And I drilled out my redundant fuel regulator (let’s not talk about that, umkay?)

I’m going to take the rest of the week off and go sailing. Next week I will finalize battery wires, fuse box, fuel lines and ignition.

Have fun. Avoid the boom.

Dan

[gbranham]

Awesome! Happy to hear you're getting some clarity on your sensor wiring. It's a great feeling to surmount total confusion, isn't it? I know this feeling! I can tell you I spent some time in the plumbing aisle at Home Depot to find the right fitting to thread my oil pressure sender into the block, just above the oil filter. Here's a pic of mine. Happy sailing!

207418

[danmas]

Yes, I feel much better about things now. I wonder, after reading your thread if the sensor is really 1/8th npt? That could explain why I wasn’t able to easily find an adapter… I don’t have npt fittings in the shop and so I just assumed it was m10 because it fit on an m10 nut…

I would imagine it will leak if I have the wrong threads….

[gbranham]

Yes, I feel much better about things now. I wonder, after reading your thread if the sensor is really 1/8th npt? That could explain why I wasn’t able to easily find an adapter… I don’t have npt fittings in the shop and so I just assumed it was m10 because if fit on an m10 bolt…

I would imagine it will leak if I have the wrong threads….

I'd take your sensor to Home Depot, and find the right fitting. M10 is close to 1/8NPT, but it's not correct. The fitting I bought was the only one that the sensor fit into without any slop or undue force. It threaded in just as you'd expect. Meantime, I had purchased a 1/2NPT to 1/8NPT fitting on Amazon, and when it showed up, it also worked just as well as the HD fitting. Oddly enough, the HD fitting wasn't labeled 1/2NPT to 1/8NPT, but 1/2MPT (male NPT) or somesuch.

This guy:

Amazon.com: KOOTANS 4pcs Heavy Duty 1/2 NPT Male Thread to 1/8 NPT Female Thread Brass Reducer Hex Bushing Brass Fitting Pipe Hose Tube Adapter Convert : Industrial & Scientific (https://www.amazon.com/KOOTANS-Fitting-2-Inch-Reducing-Adapter/dp/B07P7VN99T/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2VSE6IEV3VN2W&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.oArZR0d3QnmsrGF4Q5sWZVtrHYgif7pW7 1w0oGUVl8Eoz5x8hjzPp7MHNjm4308J9up962bx2QVqwqp0ivD GXaW6-fOrOxUEGSRFs7XLUerMebHA61-nEzlaGIREy5GF6k2Zie513SRreeqwgpwgwmkNmJWcxnu-Jr2ripOT0nCeyK8DVHIUCPbxmZoUL1R4znK6ctAJXtagrWw9iT hT9gHRuj-KubROHRX0Bwr1iNs.PkGW7juO_WrjNnanFxrDSR_TKHxB5Yj7t UVOezbi4GU&dib_tag=se&keywords=1%2F2npt%2Bto%2B1%2F8npt%2Breducer&qid=1733944881&sprefix=1%2F2NPT%2Bto%2B1%2F8%2Caps%2C133&sr=8-1&th=1)

[danmas]

Hee. Of course I ordered the wrong thing. Glad I posted and thanks again. This is the right part:

EVIL ENERGY 1/2" NPT Male to 1/8" NPT Female Reducer Bushing Fitting Adapter Hex Aluminum Black

Edit: and I’m wrong… sigh.

[danmas]

Well shoot. 1/2” npt refers to inner diameter not outer. I ran to Home Depot and picked up the part.

I shortened my brake bias cable, mounted the tilton 90 degree converter and generally played around some more with my engine harness. Electronic fuel pressure sensor and oil pressure sensors are mounted. Working on mounting coil next.

Picked up a swan metal brake for my 20 ton press and ordered an air powered bottle jack.207634207635207636207637

Got interrupted while posting so came back to edit some photos. I need to adjust the balance bar on the brake master cylinders.

Anyway, onward.

Dan

[danmas]

I am getting closer to first start. I hope to be able to duplicate what my engine team did (Shout out to Jim Inglese and Fitzpatrick Motors). I also realized I never posted their video. Here it is…


https://youtube.com/shorts/6lN38GWJMmo?feature=share

[gbranham]

Sounds awesome! First start is always nerve-racking for me. I'm probably a few months away from that point. Have a fire extinquisher handy, and I always do my first start in the driveway, and not in the garage or shop, just in case. I've had several first starts on various builds over the years, and fortunately, every one of them has fired right up without any drama.

Greg

[Junbug]

Congrats on getting the engine and continuing to make progress!

[danmas]

Merry Christmas and happy holidays everyone. I puttered for a couple hours in the shop and did a dry fit of the headers. Nothing earth shattering but fun.

208036208037208038

I think they look great and George from Gas’n had them coated for me.

I have also been thinking about how to mount a winch on my lift. I wanted it simple and ideally portable so I could place it on either end to help pull the car on and off the lift when I am by myself. Thought of manufacturing a bunch of things but I stumbled on to an rv hitch mount which will work great.

208039.

Happy holidays!

[danmas]

Well I took the plunge because I found myself wanting to know what things will look like with the engine in. Several of you suggested that the mounts should be loose while installing which was a total duh moment for me. Of course they should. Thank you.

Frank (I.E.427)has a video about engine installing and he talks about using the lift to elevate the rear of the car. Thanks Frank.

I used pipe insulation to cover the chains to prevent any engine damage while installing.

I have a good hoist and a great leveler. The one I lent Junbug is crap and I’m not sure how he managed to get it in but my hat is off to him. He is very skilled.

The more I do this the more I realize how much I don’t know and how amazing some of these builds are. I appreciate all of your help.

And I’m just like Jeff K in exactly one way. I work alone. I think it’s mostly because I can’t get the words in my head out of my head and so it’s usually easier for me to just do it on my own. It certainly means that there are far fewer bad feelings.

Finally it is totally possible to do this on your own even when you are as unskilled as I am. I also have to deal with only 1.5 arms as my left arm doesn’t work all that well yet.

Thanks again everyone.

Dan
https://youtube.com/shorts/krHtKjPx3vg

[M. Townsend]

Congrats on the install
Really liked the music...
Four Twenty Seven... Four Twenty Seven... Four Twenty Seven... in it goes!!

[danmas]

Did some work over the last couple months. Finished driver side and passenger side foot box. Pulled the engine back out so I could button up the engine side of the driver’s footbox.

I put Raptor liner on the underside of the car and that worked really well. I also put it on the inside and I am not sure that was worthwhile but at least it’s all black. I put Lizardskin on the passenger footbox and I am unconvinced that it is all that useful since I also installed Killmat. Killmat is a great product. Easy to use. Cuts well, fits the box well. I sealed the seams with some black automotive sealer and that also worked well.

Since I dropped my driver side foot box (big feet, needed more space) I decided to reroute my rear brake line and clutch line. They now run forward to the dash and then back out and through the trains tunnel with the rear electrical harness. It cleans up the foot box a lot and I don’t have to worry about road hazard (as much) or stepping on the lines.

Finally I redesigned my dash. I decided to put in gauges instead of 100% digital. It is certainly a more classic look and I will have the holley dash as either a fold down or removable so I can tune the car. Still working on that.

Picture of the new gauges. And my new motorcycle racing suit.
210978210979

Tomorrow I will either finish and cut the dash layout or find some other task to occupy my time.

Thanks all!

Dan

[gbranham]

Nice update, Dan! I was thinking about you just this morning...hadn't heard from you in awhile, and wondered how things were going. Good to see you're still moving forward!

Greg

[cv2065]

Good to see you rolling onward Dan! Are you planning to wear the jumpsuit on your first go kart?:p

[danmas]

Good to see you rolling onward Dan! Are you planning to wear the jumpsuit on your first go kart?:p

It’s a thought!

[danmas]

Today was a whole bunch of type2 fun. I decided I would take a crack at the dash and gauges and what not. In anticipation of cutting out a bunch of holes I have a 27 piece hole saw kit. Missing exactly 1 piece, a 4 inch hole saw. I didn’t think to check before I ordered my gauges. Ah well. That said, I test fit my gauges in some spare sheet metal and they look good and feel solid. Since epoxy will take a bit to dry I figure I would assemble the glove box (at least the face plate.) I would think that a $500 dash would have parts that fit. Nope! The holes for the hinge plate aren’t even close. So I could drill some holes in the dash and have a hole or two that sit empty (boo. Boo I say!) or modify the mounting plate. So I did that. Now I can mount the plate, but I can’t for the life of me figure out how this hinge combo will work. If I mount the plate the hinges don’t really hinge. Meaning I can’t have the hinge plate that mounts between the glovebox door sandwich sit flat. If I force it to sit flat the hinge mounting plate that mounts on the dash won’t open or close. I would take some pictures but I got frustrated and decided to call it a night. I have seen plenty of articles on the forum talking about this config. I’m baffled that it is so janky. That said, it is type two fun. I will figure it out and solve it and feel good about it. Just puzzling that something so simple should be such a pain in the ***.

[danmas]

Finished, such as it is, the cf glove box. It’s my least favorite thing on the build so far. I finally got it to work and got everything epoxied and bolted and in place. I didn’t really like it. None of the screws just went in. The hinges are epoxied on which means you have to essentially glue things and clamp them to make it work. It’s not great engineering and what is there is done wrong.

The holes don’t line up.
The pre-drilled holes are the wrong size.
The hinges need to be bent to make it work.
The slots for the hinge is at best a guess.
If you get the door even slightly misaligned it messes up your dash.

That said, onward.

[cv2065]

Today was a whole bunch of type2 fun. I decided I would take a crack at the dash and gauges and what not. In anticipation of cutting out a bunch of holes I have a 27 piece hole saw kit. Missing exactly 1 piece, a 4 inch hole saw. I didn’t think to check before I ordered my gauges. Ah well. That said, I test fit my gauges in some spare sheet metal and they look good and feel solid. Since epoxy will take a bit to dry I figure I would assemble the glove box (at least the face plate.) I would think that a $500 dash would have parts that fit. Nope! The holes for the hinge plate aren’t even close. So I could drill some holes in the dash and have a hole or two that sit empty (boo. Boo I say!) or modify the mounting plate. So I did that. Now I can mount the plate, but I can’t for the life of me figure out how this hinge combo will work. If I mount the plate the hinges don’t really hinge. Meaning I can’t have the hinge plate that mounts between the glovebox door sandwich sit flat. If I force it to sit flat the hinge mounting plate that mounts on the dash won’t open or close. I would take some pictures but I got frustrated and decided to call it a night. I have seen plenty of articles on the forum talking about this config. I’m baffled that it is so janky. That said, it is type two fun. I will figure it out and solve it and feel good about it. Just puzzling that something so simple should be such a pain in the ***.

The holes on my glovebox were misaligned as well, although I didn't have to bend the arms. I used the JB Weld plastic epoxy and it worked great. Also works on metal or anything else you have.

One note on the gauge cutouts for the CF dash. You obviously only get one chance here or boom, you could be out $500. A drill press is your friend. Also, I avoided using any generic hole saw kit and bought them individually once I measured each gauge with a caliper, as they sell hole saws on Amazon pretty much by the millimeter. Buy a hole saw that is 1mm smaller than the gauge size, as even on a drill press, you'll get a slight wobble as some of the hole saws are not true at the chuck. I also had a small Etsy shop make me some metal disks in the exact diameter of each gauge with holes in the middle, that way I was able to move them around as I wanted before final placement and mark the precise hole where I need to start the hole saw. You could cut them out of cardboard as well, but maybe not as precise. Oh, and wear a mask. That dust is very fine and nasty. Good luck!

[Blitzboy54]

Finished, such as it is, the cf glove box. It’s my least favorite thing on the build so far. I finally got it to work and got everything epoxied and bolted and in place. I didn’t really like it. None of the screws just went in. The hinges are epoxied on which means you have to essentially glue things and clamp them to make it work. It’s not great engineering and what is there is done wrong.

The holes don’t line up.
The pre-drilled holes are the wrong size.
The hinges need to be bent to make it work.
The slots for the hinge is at best a guess.
If you get the door even slightly misaligned it messes up your dash.

That said, onward.

The biggest issue I had on the CF glove box was the metal backing plate, It needs to be modified. The instructions are not awesome in that they assume everything fits together. So you glue it then find out its wrong. I had to peal my plate back out and re do it. Like you it's done now but it wasn't awesome.

Like Chad said, wear a mask, that dust is no joke, also gloves, those little particles get into everything. Especially skin!

I didn't go nearly the lengths Chad did to cut the holes but I should have. I used an adjustable blade. It worked fine but my measurements were a little aggressive. I should have gone smaller and worked the holes with a stone to widen. It all worked out but these are the things you learn and tuck away into "if I did this again" part of your brain.

I also ran into an issue where the template they give you DOES NOT LINE UP WITH THE STEERING SHAFT!!! That really fired me up. I mean come on, don't provide a template then. It worked out for me because I went with Franks turn signal hub and it covered everything up.

Collapse your shaft and use it to mark the dash. Throw that template in the trash.

[danmas]

Thanks for the tips gents. I will probably start cutting the dash this weekend.

[F500guy]

Second that on the steering wheel location, have it in place and mark where the shaft comes in from the back side.

[danmas]

I got the fuse box mounted and the main harness run as well as connected to front harness and rear harness (have not done the trailer mod yet but that is next). Now laying out the engine harness and what not. This is the part that I literally know nothing about. EFI harness is hooked in and I know where all the sensor connect.

I opened a thread on the forum about how (or if) I connect the main harness run to the Holley terminator run. I don’t see any connections that make sense, but I am foggy on how the gauges get info from the terminator x. I’m sure I will struggle through it, but if anyone has done it before I could use a pointer to their build thread

211452211453

[danmas]

The holes on my glovebox were misaligned as well, although I didn't have to bend the arms. I used the JB Weld plastic epoxy and it worked great. Also works on metal or anything else you have.

One note on the gauge cutouts for the CF dash. You obviously only get one chance here or boom, you could be out $500. A drill press is your friend. Also, I avoided using any generic hole saw kit and bought them individually once I measured each gauge with a caliper, as they sell hole saws on Amazon pretty much by the millimeter. Buy a hole saw that is 1mm smaller than the gauge size, as even on a drill press, you'll get a slight wobble as some of the hole saws are not true at the chuck. I also had a small Etsy shop make me some metal disks in the exact diameter of each gauge with holes in the middle, that way I was able to move them around as I wanted before final placement and mark the precise hole where I need to start the hole saw. You could cut them out of cardboard as well, but maybe not as precise. Oh, and wear a mask. That dust is very fine and nasty. Good luck!

I did another test fit with the gauges and you are spot on. I used a 51mm hole saw for the small gauges and it’s nearly perfect. I will clean it up with the rotary tool tomorrow and it should fit like a glove. Really really appreciate the tip. Thank you!

[weendoggy]

I got the fuse box mounted and the main harness run as well as connected to front harness and rear harness (have not done the trailer mod yet but that is next). Now laying out the engine harness and what not. This is the part that I literally know nothing about. EFI harness is hooked in and I know where all the sensor connect.

I opened a thread on the forum about how (or if) I connect the main harness run to the Holley terminator run. I don’t see any connections that make sense, but I am foggy on how the gauges get info from the terminator x. I’m sure I will struggle through it, but if anyone has done it before I could use a pointer to their build thread


Saw your other post, but the Holley doesn't "mate" with your chassis gauges. It runs it's own setup. You'll merge the Holley and Chassis to power the Holley. If you need some help or guidance, shoot me a PM. Been doing HP over 10yrs.

[Mike.Bray]

The Ingelese 8 stack will come with all of the sensors the Holley EFI requires like CTS (coolant), MAT (air temp), TPS (throttle position), IAC (idle air control), and possibly a MAP (manifold pressure). There's also a fuel pressure sensor you need to install in your supply line and a wide band O2 sensor for the exhaust. This is all the ECU needs to run the engine. However, with the Holley you can also install an oil pressure sensor and a knock sensor if you want to monitor those through the ECU.

The ECU will have power directly from the battery and a switched 12V supply to power it. This will be the orange "Coil" wire from the RF fuse block.

If you run a Holley dual sync distributor it will plug in directly to the Terminator harness and allow you to run sequential injection which is very desirable for stacks. I highly recommend the dual sync.

There's a white wire from A6 on the ECU (Points Output) that will connect to your spark box points lead.

You can control the fuel pump from either the ECU or the RF, I would recommend using the ECU as you have more control.

Same for the radiator fan, you can use either the RF or the ECU, again the ECU gives you more control.

That's all there is between the EFI and the car. The rest of the car like the lights and gauges are self contained with the RF kit.

Clear as mud?

[danmas]

The Ingelese 8 stack will come with all of the sensors the Holley EFI requires like CTS (coolant), MAT (air temp), TPS (throttle position), IAC (idle air control), and possibly a MAP (manifold pressure). There's also a fuel pressure sensor you need to install in your supply line and a wide band O2 sensor for the exhaust. This is all the ECU needs to run the engine. However, with the Holley you can also install an oil pressure sensor and a knock sensor if you want to monitor those through the ECU.

The ECU will have power directly from the battery and a switched 12V supply to power it. This will be the orange "Coil" wire from the RF fuse block.

If you run a Holley dual sync distributor it will plug in directly to the Terminator harness and allow you to run sequential injection which is very desirable for stacks. I highly recommend the dual sync.

There's a white wire from A6 on the ECU (Points Output) that will connect to your spark box points lead.

You can control the fuel pump from either the ECU or the RF, I would recommend using the ECU as you have more control.

Same for the radiator fan, you can use either the RF or the ECU, again the ECU gives you more control.

That's all there is between the EFI and the car. The rest of the car like the lights and gauges are self contained with the RF kit.

Clear as mud?

Thank you Mike, very Helpful.

Stolen from Paps's Build Thread (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?24916-Papa-s-MKIV-Roadster-Build-9115-(Post-Grad)-One-million-views!!!&p=491818&viewfull=1#post491818)

211466

[danmas]

Thanks for the pointers on the harness everyone. I am progressing. I decided to mount the Terminator-X ECU in the same place Papa Dave mounted his. I did it this way so I could see the lights on the top (Thanks @Rich) and so I could get access to it without having to take the dash off. I used a 1/4" drill bit to put holes in the firewall forward and 4 M6x20 Hex Bolts.

211465

[danmas]

First off thanks to everyone that replied both in the threads as well as privately. I spent about 6 hours today just grinding through it. I didn’t end up calling people because I realized that I just didn’t have the questions formulated. That said I really appreciate the tips. Mike Bray said something that helped a lot. The loose A6 wire on the harness from Holley. That finally flipped a switch. I kept looking for connectors… it’s the loose wires I needed to be focused on.

211472211473
Following are my notes and things I am currently working through. Not really looking for the answer here (although if you have it feel free to weigh in). Memorializing for those that are similarly wire challenged.

So, I think that there is one connection to the MSD box. This is the points connection Mike was referring to, the white wire with A6 on it on the Holley harness. Connecting up the MSD A6 after that was relatively simple. I think. There is a wire to the ignition from the MSD harness and I’m not sure if that means my ignition should sit behind the 6al now or if that ignition wire should go to Holley harness or to the main harness. Something to sort next week. There is also a gray tach wire on the MSD harness. I assume that wires into my tach somehow.
211470

On the Holley harness I have a green fuel pump wire (since I have the ecu controlling the fuel pump). Currently the fuel pump is connected to the main RF harness. Should I cut that out of the RF harness or do I have a fuel pump control line at the other end of the RF harness? Again, something to sort next week.

211471

There is a black ignition ground (again a loose wire) on the Holley harness. I assume that this connects into the ignition system somewhere. Another item to follow up.



There is an orange coil line on the main RF harness that I believe attaches to the red and black loose wire on the Holley harness. Need to verify.

211469

[danmas]

I also wanted to send a shout out to some of the suppliers for us. I have been happy with every after market part I have received from venders. I have used several parts from Breeze.

The FFMetal fire wall forward is simply awesome.


Frank of I.e.427 garage is super helpful with how to videos but also his drop trunk and his turn signal.

I have already talked about Levy racing and the big brake kit in previous posts. Finally Jeff Kleiner has really provided tons of advice and coaching.

Lot of words to say thanks to all the support and the high quality products.

Dan

[Mike.Bray]

There is an orange coil line on the main RF harness that I believe attaches to the red and black loose wire on the Holley harness. Need to verify.

211469

The orange wire from the RF fuse block is marked EFI of Coil. This connects to the red/white wire from the Holley terminal A10. It's important to use this orange wire as it's hot during cranking, kind of important. Don't ask me how I know:)

[danmas]

Yes, red and white. I said red and black but then posted a picture of a red and white wire. Thanks again Mike, you helped break the log jam

[weendoggy]

I would use the Holley to control the fuel pump. Just be sure to use it to trigger a relay and not direct to the pump. Using the ECU is safer if an issue rises and it can kill power to the pump. imo

[Mike.Bray]

With the Holley controlling the fuel pump you have more control than with the RF which just powers it on when the key is turned.

[danmas]

With the Holley controlling the fuel pump you have more control than with the RF which just powers it on when the key is turned.

So I should be able to run the green wire to the fuel pump and leave the ground connected to the inertia switch? Or can I tap into the Ron Francis harness with the green wire from the terminator x and take advantage of the built in relay with the ground already connected? Or should I get another relay?

Thanks! Dan

[weendoggy]

If the RF is powering the relay (trigger) just put the Holley in its place. No tap, cut and replace. By your post the inertia is controlled via ground pass through which is fine.

[danmas]

I dropped the engine in for probably the final time today. This time I put the drive shaft in at the same time. I did it because I wanted to cut down some of the wiring and I needed to figure out the Forte mechanical throttle linkage. Since this was the third time dropping in the engine it went very smoothly. Now I’m looking forward to finishing up the wiring….

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211753&d=1742689374

[gbranham]

Congrats, buddy! Dropping that engine in is getting pretty routine, eh? When are we going to see a First Start video? You're not far behind me!

Greg

[danmas]

Congrats, buddy! Dropping that engine in is getting pretty routine, eh? When are we going to see a First Start video? You're not far behind me!

Greg

Thank you, it feels pretty good. First start video is on the horizon. I started this project thinking I knew something. I have evolved to know how much I don’t know and yet I am starting to learn some things. It will be a fairly momentous occasion when I finally turn that over. Right now I have a list of about ten things I need to do before first start. I appreciate the kind words and the support here.

Was talking with my best friend today. He is doing a resto mod of a 65 mustang with an LS3 and a whole bunch of bling to make it look like… not an LS3? Anyway he was talking about a few groups he follows and he said he would never ever post on those sites because they would tear him a a new …something. Anyway, this is a really encouraging community and I appreciate it.

To answer your question …soon.

[gbranham]

You got this, brother! Can't wait to see your first start video!

[cv2065]

Awesome milestone! Congrats!

[cc2Arider]

Hey Dan,

I couldn't tell: are those individual Weber-style carbs or is that a stack injection system you've got? Looks awesome!

Craig C

[gbranham]

Hey Dan,

I couldn't tell: are those individual Weber-style carbs or is that a stack injection system you've got? Looks awesome!

Craig C

Inglese stack with Holley Terminator X EFI.

[danmas]

Inglese stack with Holley Terminator X EFI.

Yup. This engine was built by Jim Inglese’s engine builder. It should be about 550 HP which is way too much but certainly a talking point.

[danmas]

This is my initial reading but the engine is still fairly loose in the motor mounts. Weight is on the suspension. I am using three of the forte spacers as well as the trans spacer that came with the kit. I almost feel like I need another quarter inch on the transmission mount, but just starting to figure things out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211801&d=1742784431

[gbranham]

FWIW, I didn't measure my angles at all. I simply looked to make sure there were no drastic angles visually, and moved on to other tasks. I know that's blasphemous, but I did the same on my first build with no issues. That's why u-joints exist. I think folks fixate on this too much.

Greg

[danmas]

FWIW, I didn't measure my angles at all. I simply looked to make sure there were no drastic angles visually, and moved on to other tasks. I know that's blasphemous, but I did the same on my first build with no issues. That's why u-joints exist. I think folks fixate on this too much.

Greg

Yea, that makes some sense. I’m going slowly and carefully here as a first timer. My 351w block is pretty wide so there isn’t any room to adjust in the motor mounts (pins are at the top of the slot). I used the 3/4” of spacers that forte sells and that made the angle on the drive shaft about 4 degrees. I slapped another quarter inch on it and that dropped the up angle on the drive shaft 1.9 or so. Anyway, it feels pretty close. I will do the calculations tomorrow but I think it’s close….

[Blitzboy54]

To echo what Greg said. The pinion angle is more important with a straight axle as the diff moves up and down. With IRS the system is fixed. You still would want to avoid any extreme angles but just to give you some peace of mind yours looks fine.

[danmas]

Starting to lock things down. I installed the starter and I am a little bit concerned about the clearance. There is about a quarter inch between the starter and the round tube. Do you guys think this is ok?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211834&d=1742919640

I also installed the safety loop over the drive shaft. I have between 1/2" and 3/4" of clearance.
Same question:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211835&d=1742919640

[Jeff Kleiner]

They're both fine.

Jeff

[danmas]

Thanks Jeff. And for people that have the "What the hell did I just do moments".....

Put your ground strap on your motor mount first if that is what you want to do. The engine is obviously putting pressure on the motor mounts when it is in and well... It won't go well if you decide to try and put the ground strap on after you have installed the engine.

Just put it somewhere else on the engine. Trust me on this one.

Another tip. Someone (I don't recall who) decided to wear a head cover while working on the car. I now always wear gloves and generally safety glasses. As of yesterday I now wear a head bumper. It saved me from a few small whacks today. I wish I had it three days ago when I about gave myself a concussion because I misjudged the height of my ramp....

This is what I use:

Hat (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JBXBNCK?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211848&d=1742927388

Dan

[gbranham]

This is easier.211860

[danmas]

This is easier.211860

Yes. The brain is a funny thing. Book shows strap on mount. Ten minutes after loosening that mount I realized that I got slapped with the short end of the common sense stick at birth.

I kid a bit as I am usually pretty pragmatic. I just got micro focused and didn’t access the rational brain. It’s all good. I just pulled the engine out 2”s and used my persuasion to reseat things. Alls well that ends well. Trying to pass on the mistakes I made so no one else makes them…

[gbranham]

Yes. The brain is a funny thing. Book shows strap on mount. Ten minutes after loosening that mount I realized that I got slapped with the short end of the common sense stick at birth.

I kid a bit as I am usually pretty pragmatic. I just got micro focused and didn’t access the rational brain. It’s all good. I just pulled the engine out 2”s and used my persuasion to reseat things. Alls well that ends well. Trying to pass on the mistakes I made so no one else makes them…

I guess I'm confused why you'd need to raise the engine to put a ground strap on the motor mount. Just remove one of the two bolts that connect the mount to the block, put the strap on the bolt, and reinstall. Are you saying you wanted to put the strap between the block and mount?

[danmas]

No, but I took the bolt out of the mount to fit the strap on. That caused the mount to deform enough that I couldn’t put the bolt back in. So I had to loosen the bolts that connected it to the frame and then I had to take the pressure off the mount so it could relax and line back up with the hole in the block. Literally three inches from that mount is a threaded hole in my block that would have worked perfectly well. Just acting with out thinking…

I suppose I should say that my mounts are the energy suspension mounts and they have hard rubber middles. Any pressure on them and they spread out like a golden retriever taking a nap. Probably a fixed mount like Gordon Levy sells and recommends would have been just fine…. It would also let my motor sit a little lower in the frame… next time…

[gbranham]

Ah, gotcha! That makes sense.

[danmas]

Spent the weekend in Chattanooga learning about the Great Loop. 6000 miles on the inter coastal waterway. About a year living on a power boat. I’ve been thinking about it for maybe 10 years now. That said, I also had the realization that I would miss working on my build. I spent about three hours in the shop today just doing some miscellaneous activities. Learnings:

1. I truly despise the carbon fiber glovebox. I’m on my fourth attempt to get it right. Insert a large number of curse words. That said, I may have it done correctly now. Guess we will see.

2. Locknlube is a pretty great lube gun. I really like it. I lubed the front chassis. I took the load off the suspension to get the grease in. I guess you have enough in the system when it squirts out.

3. I really like the four post ramp lift. Some folks talk about being able to get under the car better when it’s on a two post lift. I use 4 5 ton truck jacks that I can set to 48”. If I need more access to the car I position the jacks under the round tubes and lower the lift all the way to the ground. It feels safer and I like the convenience.

This week I plan to finish up the electrical. Maybe.

[danmas]

Fuel system is done. I pressured tested each of the lines and it easily held 75psi. Tomorrow is more electrical or perhaps I will do the clutch and manual throttle.

[rponfick]

No, but I took the bolt out of the mount to fit the strap on. That caused the mount to deform enough that I couldn’t put the bolt back in. So I had to loosen the bolts that connected it to the frame and then I had to take the pressure off the mount so it could relax and line back up with the hole in the block. Literally three inches from that mount is a threaded hole in my block that would have worked perfectly well. Just acting with out thinking…

I suppose I should say that my mounts are the energy suspension mounts and they have hard rubber middles. Any pressure on them and they spread out like a golden retriever taking a nap. Probably a fixed mount like Gordon Levy sells and recommends would have been just fine…. It would also let my motor sit a little lower in the frame… next time…

Made the same mistake on mine. Will not make the same mistake again and use simpler method on my Mk5.

Since we are neighbors, I would like to drop by sometime and look at your excellent build.

Ralph

[danmas]

Hi. I’m working on the accelerator for my engine. I’ve got the forte mechanical linkage but it’s really tight in my engine space and I’m worried about things binding. I haven’t completely decided to revert to the accelerator cable but I’m leaning that way. Assuming I decide to do the mechanical linkage the current geometry doesn’t really work. It’s really built for a cable. I’m looking about to see what I want to do but figured I would ask for thoughts. If I do the mechanical linkage the final throw rod to the throttle will be about 7” long, so pretty short and I need an adapter or to change the throttle mechanism. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212921&d=1745340499

Two questions:
cable or mechanical linkage?
If mechanical linkage, any idea how to adapt this throttle to work with the forte mechanical linkage?

Thanks,

Dan

[Blitzboy54]

I think you can make it work but it would be a combination of the two. I think you would have to shorten and adapt the end of the linkage to attach a cable. If it were me I would change it back to a cable and sell the linkage on the forum. As it turns out I have an extra Lokar cable from my last build that is still in the box (for some reason I ended up with 2. Much smoother than the FFR version. You are welcome to it at no cost if you want it. It has a braided stainless housing.

[Mike.Bray]

I'm running stacks and using a Lokar cable, it's smooth as silk. The trick is to bring it out from the front of the footbox, loop it 180 degrees, clamp it to the valve cover, and then make another 180 to line it up with the bellcrank in the center of the manifold. I wouldn't do it any wat different.

[danmas]

Papa Dave is doing the same as both Mike and Jesse. With those three heavy weight builders suggesting that I think I am done. Jesse, I will probably order a black one that matches my lines but thank you for the offer.

[Papa]

Dan,

If you want to go with the mechanical linkage, Jim Inglese can provide a different linkage configuration for your stacks. You have the cable version now.

Dave

[Derald Rice]

I would agree Dave. I've seen them on Jim's webpage and thought how much they emulated the Webers. I was curious if there was someone in today's world crazy enough to want to deal with Webers, especially in Colorado!

I am in Colorado, and have had webers on FFR3319 for about 10-12 years with no problems.

And the motor for my new car will have them also.

Eveyone thinks that there is something evil about webers, but they are just a carburetor..

[danmas]

Dan,

If you want to go with the mechanical linkage, Jim Inglese can provide a different linkage configuration for your stacks. You have the cable version now.

Dave

I suspected as much. I have it on my list to call him if I decide to go with the Manuel, but honestly, given how busy my firewall is getting, I think it makes sense to go with the cable as is. I will vacillate a few more times I suspect, but I’m pretty convinced this is the right thing. There are just a ton of wires and hoses and that stack config eats up the space. I’m sure it can be done, but maybe I will do that on my mark 5.

Dan

[danmas]

Working on finishing the wiring on the car. One thing I think is very odd is that on the Ron Francis harness there are two connectors for the rear harness. For whatever reason, they split the lights across two plugs. It would seem obvious to me that one shouldn’t have to care but since we use LED lights we need to wire in the trailer connector. I had a quick chat with I.e.427 (Frank) and he cleared up a few things for me. First, use the tekonsha trailer connector. Second, both purple wires edit: Can be hot and can be used as extra (trunk light etc)….

editThe purple wire thing applies if you install the trailer connector at the dash. See Frank’s post below

For those of you electrically challenged, suggest watching this:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YtQ9iQkunZo&list=PLDlFwXKm54ocTfAY0kLnGZAtlIL_i4FJ6&index=15&t=71s

About the 13 minute mark….

[i.e.427]

Second, both purple wires are hot and can be used as extra (trunk light etc)….

For those of you electrically challenged, suggest watching this:



About the 13 minute mark….

I don't want anyone to get this wrong. The 2 purple wires running to the back of the car MAY be reused and made to be "hot" all the time. They are actually the discarded brake light wires and we repurpose them to use as a trunk light circuit. The trailer light converter combines them on the head end of the converter. The post converter wires aren't needed.

If you place your converter in the trunk, then none of this applies.

Frank

[Mike.Bray]

I am in Colorado, and have had webers on FFR3319 for about 10-12 years with no problems.

And the motor for my new car will have them also.

Eveyone thinks that there is something evil about webers, but they are just a carburetor..

I've had Webers, I've tuned Webers, and I know people over the years that have had Webers. "With no problems" is definitely an anomaly in my experience. Of the 10-12 cars that I've known to have had Webers not a single one still has them. At least 75% of these setups were from Ingelese so you know they're as right as they can be.

Sincere congratulations on your success!

[danmas]

Today I finished the back end wiring, mostly. What I didn’t understand yesterday that frank helped me with was that the purple wires in the rear harness are extraneous because the trailer connector combines the brake and the turn signal wires. So,at the dash purple goes into the trailer harness but only three wires come out, left, right and rear lights. That means the purple wires are just extra. <probably obvious to most folks after a bit> That means those wires can be used for really anything you wish.

Today I installed the negative bus bar at the dash. I need to install a positive bus bar I think as well. I think I have decided to forego the battery cut off in the dash. I may put one in later, but relatively easy to do.

I also put my engine harness on the engine and holy hell there are a ton of wires running around my engine compartment. I think I will need to split the loom and do some work on cable management. That EFI stack gets super busy.

Work continues…. Feels good to be back in the shop after nearly two weeks of being tied up doing other things.

[danmas]

Tonight I got some relays. I was reading on the forum and someone suggested a relay for the ignition from the starter. I thought that was a good idea as I have a digital guard dawg and I think having a relay in the chain seemed somewhat wise. That said, don’t really know so I thought I would check with you all. I figured a wire from the battery into this relay as well as the blue wire from the Ron Francis harness couldn’t hurt. These were silly cheap @ about $10 for five. Thoughts?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213029&d=1745544768

[cv2065]

I used a pigtail just like that one for my push start as the button is only 5 amps. I thought the Ignition Control Module of the Digital Guard Dawg system already came with a 60A relay? I'm sure they have a detailed instruction sheet to confirm.

[danmas]

I used one just like that one for my push start as the button is only 5 amps. I thought the Ignition Control Module of the Digital Guard Dawg system already came with a 60A relay? I'm sure they have a detailed instruction sheet to confirm.

It does. I was reading about Dave’s (papa’s) cobra and it came out of that thread. I should have gone to the instructions to see if dawg thought about it already. Glad I asked before I installed. They were cheap enough I will hang on to them.thanks!

[edwardb]

No need to add relays to the DGD setup. If that isn't clear already. It's a very robust design as is.

Agreed there are lots of cheap relays out there. Don't know how they can make them for that, to be honest. Having said that, I'd be careful where I put them. You know the one about you get what you pay for? When I add relays, especially for mission critical purposes, I try to pick name brands (Bosch, etc.) and go for the heavier current capacity.

[Papa]

It does. I was reading about Dave’s (papa’s) cobra and it came out of that thread. I should have gone to the instructions to see if dawg thought about it already. Glad I asked before I installed. They were cheap enough I will hang on to them.thanks!

Dan,

I used a relay for the coil (+) wire to be sure I was always getting a full 12V at the coil. With the MSD ignition I installed when I did the stacks, that relay is feeding the MSD box, and the MSD box powers the coil. With my long running intermittent stall issue, I suspect that something in the wiring feeding the MSD is causing momentary drops in voltage that cause the car to shut off. I've worked through all the grounds and have recently run a fused battery connection through a switch to power the MSD box. So far, no stalls since making that change.

Dave

[danmas]

Today I put in my throttle cable. It was pretty simple and it works pretty well. I tried to hook the cable in with the pedal already installed and that was pretty impossible for me with my shoulder injury and the width of my hands and stuff. That said, it is only a couple set screws to pull it out so I did that and it was much easier. I also figured I would share a couple things with people that are still thinking about the accelerator. Here is 3 minutes of YouTube. Hopefully it is helpful.


https://youtu.be/dwGIHCJVmpw

And here it is installed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213086&d=1745716055

[danmas]

Hey folks,

I’m laying things out to make sure things fit. Holy heck my engine compartment is getting busy. I have a couple of options for coil placement. What do you guys think about this? Mounting down low on the block. Not sure I love that. Mounting on the passenger f panel. Worried that might interfere with the overflow tank or the hinges. Thoughts?

Option 1:https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213208&d=1745967063

Option 2:https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213210&d=1745967063

Thoughts?

[danmas]

And post number 2 around placement:

Oil catch can. This ok?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213212&d=1745968046

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213213&d=1745968046

[danmas]

And #3

Power steering reservoir:
This ok?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213214&d=1745968229
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213215&d=1745968229

[gbranham]

Oil catch can and PS reservoir look good. That's where I put my PS reservoir. I put my coil on the back of the driver's side head with a $15 bracket from Summit. Your coil bracket looks like mine.

213218213219

[danmas]

Oil catch can and PS reservoir look good. That's where I put my PS reservoir. I put my coil on the back of the driver's side head with a $15 bracket from Summit. Your coil bracket looks like mine.

213218213219

It’s the bracket you told me to buy if I recall.

Thanks on the ps and catch can…

Still waffling on coil…

[Jeff Kleiner]

Catch can should be fine. Coil on the F panel not good. PS reservoir maybe.

Rule of thumb is to measure back 20 inches from the cross tube that the radiator mounts to---anything that you're putting there needs to be at least 2" down from the square tubes to avoid conflict with the hood hinge gas struts. So, it looks like you'll need to go down with the coil and possibly the reservoir.

Jeff

[danmas]

Thank you Jeff!

[danmas]

There are really only seven stories in the world and the same is true with building a roadster. Today was an impactful day. It was a day of learning.
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Seven_Basic_Plots)

Today I spent about 2 hours wrestling with my headers. They are the gas-n headers and I’m really pleased with them. I recall reading about someone having the wrong gasket with their headers and so before I installed the passenger header I checked it for my pipes. It fits great on the passenger header and armed with that I went to work. I was going to replace my header bolts with studs because I thought that would be easier. At the shop I had a minor epiphany that the studs are mostly useful for easy alignment on the header when you are first installing the header. Makes sense but instead of dropping a silly amount of money for arp header studs I figured I would just get 3 cheap ones from the autopart store and use them for initial alignment and finish with the other 5 bolts, pull the studs and finish the remaining 3 bolts. It actually worked flawlessly.

My block is also predrilled for two different size headers, a fact that didn’t really twig me for a bit until about two hours into the exercise. Getting the passenger side header on with the bolts is a bit tricky in that the bolts didn’t really fit the header quite right. The shoulder on the bolt touched the out tube. However when fully seated it works ok. Just lots of tiny wrench turning. Anyway, I got it set and I was pretty happy but the gasket looked funky. It did align on the pipes but looked funky on the block. Didn’t look like it was blocking the outflow so I moved on.

Then tragedy: driver side pipe gasket doesn’t fit at all. That freaked me out a bit. They are both the same size gasket…. You know the rest of the story:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213245&d=1746059053

Yup. Two different headers. I called Gas-N and they confirmed. They couldn’t have been nicer and they are making it right immediately. Every vendor I have worked with on this forum has been exceptional.

Long day and zero progress but I learned a bunch….

[cv2065]

I had to send my headers back to Georgie for re-honing as well. It was basically a week and a half turnaround and awesome customer service by Gas N Pipe, but the delay is the aggravating part.

[Justin]

Damn, that really stinks. Sometimes we must go backwards to go forwards. I need a rearview mirror in my garage.

[danmas]

I absolutely have to stop reading Jesse’s build thread. It cost me money everytime I do. I was convinced I knew what color I wanted and then I saw his orange comments and it got me thinking.

Now I am considering this:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213504&d=1746664141

Or this:https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213505&d=1746665474

Thoughts?

[Blitzboy54]

I absolutely have to stop reading Jesse’s build thread. It cost me money everytime I do. I was convinced I knew what color I wanted and then I saw his orange comments and it got me thinking.

Now I am considering this:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213504&d=1746664141

Or this:
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/custom-black-car-paint-job--3307399719459461/

Thoughts?

Literally the nicest thing anyone has ever said to me :)

That color with your black accents would be vicious

[egchewy79]

Love that color.
is it a base/clear or tricoat paint?

[danmas]

I really don’t know much about it, I just started picture surfing. If I recall Jeff K did one like that a bit ago…. I will pm him shortly…

[danmas]

So I did some research on the on the variations of Black Cherry Pearl. Turns out, at least according to the net, that this is very hard to get right and reasonably expensive. Because of course it is. It requires a particular primer, base coat, custom mix and clear coat.

However it’s a lot of fun looking at all the truly talented painters and exceptional car painters. I’m probably a year away from paint, but I didn’t feel like doing much on the car today so I whittled away about three hours just poking and looking at how to videos. I’m anticipating Jeff will do my car when it is ready and he has time, but it’s a lot of fun to picture the end results….

[danmas]

Headers….

Just a quick follow up for those that are watching. Gas-N-pipes is making me a new passenger side header with the 3” bolt spacing and the right size exhaust port. I started looking at the gaskets and stumbled on a post where people were talking about gaskets (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22554-Header-gasket-vs-no-gasket&p=256761&viewfull=1#post256761)….

Rich suggests using rtv and both Rich and Jeff suggest anti seize on the header bolts. Good to know….

That said, any real down side to using the silicone gaskets from Gas-N-Pipes?

[Mike.Bray]

Remflex

[gbranham]

I also used Remflex gaskets dry. They're surprisingly thick, in a good way. I used ARP studs and put antiseize on them when threading into the head. After dozens of heat cycles, I had to remove the headers and studs to retorque the head bolts, and they threaded out easily. Glad I used antiseize.

Greg

[danmas]

Ai generated image with artifacts but…. I may be in love…
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213623&d=1746844034

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213624&d=1746851003

[Jeff Kleiner]

AI? We don't need no stinkin' AI images to do that :)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213627&d=1729949542

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213628&d=1746878701

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213629&d=1659102817

Cheers,
Jeff

[danmas]

Gorgeous….

[danmas]

Today is a special day for me. 34 years ago today I was commissioned in the United States Army as a field artillery officer. 2 years ago today I got my kit. Today my newly commissioned middle daughter that has been working with me on the kit arrived home for the first time as an army officer. I got to swear her in.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213647&d=1746934130

That’s her making fast car noises with her little sister the day it arrived…
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213652&d=1746934980

[gbranham]

That is an awesome milestone. Congratulations!

[Blitzboy54]

A couple thoughts here.

1st congratulations, that must feel incredible, my daughter is enlisting in the Air Force. I was a Marine so I get the feeling of generational pride. Being a commissioned officer is really special.


2nd is you sir are a handsome fella. Lookin good pal. Double props for still fitting in your uniform. I'm so jealous

[danmas]

Quick question for those that have gas-n performance headers/collectors/pipes:

How much overlap for the collectors on the headers? I have about 1/8th of an inch and that feels too small. I have the question out to the vendor as well but thought I would ask here also…

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213700&d=1747097922

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213701&d=1747097922

[danmas]

Chatting with a guy today that does high end resto mods. Showed him my plan and he asked me why I wasn’t using the Holley efi 12.3 dash. Told him about my need for symmetry and he suggested a blank dash with the computer below the dash. It wasn’t crazy… what do you all think? I added speedo, tach and a couple small buttons…

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213711&d=1747110596

[danmas]

For those following along, I do in fact have the wrong collectors and so I will be shipping them back as well….

[gbranham]

I have to say, I'm really soured on Gas'N based on your experience, and others recently. I thought about buying their sidepipes, but I'm going to pass.

[cv2065]

Chatting with a guy today that does high end resto mods. Showed him my plan and he asked me why I wasn’t using the Holley efi 12.3 dash. Told him about my need for symmetry and he suggested a blank dash with the computer below the dash. It wasn’t crazy… what do you all think? I added speedo, tach and a couple small buttons…

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213711&d=1747110596

I'm kinda liking the simplicity, although it would have to have a glove box for 'balance'. Maybe spread the gauges out just a bit.

[CDXXVII]

I have to say, I'm really soured on Gas'N based on your experience, and others recently. I thought about buying their sidepipes, but I'm going to pass.

Gas'N side pipes are amazing. I don't think I have ever heard anything negative about them. I seriously doubt you can find better side pipes or service.

Gas'N is, however, relatively new when it comes to making headers so that may be an issue but Georgie at Gas'N will help you work through your issues.


By the way, these are my Gas'N pipes after 16,000 miles with a Ford Racing 427 Boss Engine.

They take about 1/2 hour per side each year with Blue Magic Metal Polish and a little elbow grease to keep them looking like new.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213779&d=1747268066

[Blitzboy54]

Gas'N side pipes are amazing. I don't think I have ever heard anything negative about them. I seriously doubt you can find better side pipes or service.

Gas'N is, however, relatively new when it comes to making headers so that may be an issue but Georgie at Gas'N will help you work through your issues.


By the way, these are my Gas'N pipes after 16,000 miles with a Ford Racing 427 Boss Engine.

They take about 1/2 hour per side each year with Blue Magic Metal Polish and a little elbow grease to keep them looking like new.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213779&d=1747268066

Those pipes really do hold up well. Gorgeous car in general. Classsic

[danmas]

I have to say, I'm really soured on Gas'N based on your experience, and others recently. I thought about buying their sidepipes, but I'm going to pass.

I hear you but honestly they have been phenomenal. I purchased them two years ago (yes before I had the kit). Not many vendors would say two years after you purchased their kit that they would make you whole. Something got messed up in their supply chain. They are making it right and I appreciate that.

[danmas]

I'm kinda liking the simplicity, although it would have to have a glove box for 'balance'. Maybe spread the gauges out just a bit.

This is just a quick mock up. My dash will have the glovebox and some switches. That said, I like the minimalist yet high tech feel. Will show something more interesting soon

[danmas]

Gas'N side pipes are amazing. I don't think I have ever heard anything negative about them. I seriously doubt you can find better side pipes or service.

Gas'N is, however, relatively new when it comes to making headers so that may be an issue but Georgie at Gas'N will help you work through your issues.


By the way, these are my Gas'N pipes after 16,000 miles with a Ford Racing 427 Boss Engine.

They take about 1/2 hour per side each year with Blue Magic Metal Polish and a little elbow grease to keep them looking like new.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213779&d=1747268066
That car has some serious drip! (My teen daughter tells me that means it is a high class high value look….)

[jengum]

AI? We don't need no stinkin' AI images to do that :)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213627&d=1729949542

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213628&d=1746878701

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213629&d=1659102817

Cheers,
Jeff

May I ask what color combination that is and type of coating system? Looks like a brandy wine of some sort.

[jvfitz]

this color is spectacular!!!!

[danmas]

I agree. I don’t get twitterpated about much but that dark brandy wine cherry look has me infatuated. Jeff does spectacular work…

[danmas]

Some days just getting a little bit done feels good. I got the new gaskets and installed the driver side header. Still waiting on the passenger side header.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213941&d=1747531075

I also put my battery in. I looked and looked for a $60 cheap group 51 and couldn’t find anything. I knuckled in and got this one. It feels silly to spend $200 on a battery but that’s what they cost in my area….

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213942&d=1747531075

[danmas]

New part….

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214019&d=1747539097

[Justin]

For those following along, I do in fact have the wrong collectors and so I will be shipping them back as well….

Not sure what's going on over there. I have an order in. I hope they turn up ok.

[danmas]

Not sure what's going on over there. I have an order in. I hope they turn up ok.

They have been very responsive. This happened in 2023 but I just caught the error a couple weeks ago. They are making it right…

[danmas]

Tied up a few small things. No kidding if you are doing anything with the carbon fiber dash in terms of grinding or cutting you definitely want a mask and gloves. After I was done I brushed up against my vice that had some dust on it and holy smokes I got some slivers. Glad I wore gloves…. Anyway, assembled my door latch for the glovebox.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214193&d=1747960094

Also finished the power steering hook up. Two twelve inch 6AN hoses from summit and Mike B’s remote reservoir location. It’s tight but everything fits and seems to look pretty good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214192&d=1747960094
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214191&d=1747960094
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214190&d=1747960094

[danmas]

Installed the radiator today using the breeze shroud, upper and lower mounts. I picked up the mounts and shroud from a vendor here that had them in his build inventory. I really like the look and I think it’s going to work out well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214368&d=1748373514

Angle is approximately correct and I will dial it in if needed once hoses are installed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214367&d=1748373514

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214366&d=1748373514


Not sure where to mount the overflow/expansion tank. It’s 10” deep. Thinking I could mount something on the x brace…. Where would you put it?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214364&d=1748373437
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214365&d=1748373437

[gbranham]

Looking good! Don't fixate on your radiator angle. Use the kit-supplied radiator side nose pieces as your guide. Line up the notches with the quickjack holes in the frame, and that's where your radiator needs to be. For my coolant expansion tank, I mounted it on the passenger F-panel, being mindful of where the hood hinges sit with the hood closed. I think if you mount anything within 21 inches of the front of the top 3/4" brace the side of the body/hood opening sits on, you need to have a couple of inches clearance.

Greg

214369214370

[Blitzboy54]

I love that everything in your engine bay is powder coated black. Looks really good.

[cc2Arider]

Hi Dan!

I like the black look at the front of your radiator...did you paint this yourself? If so, did you use any self-etching primer? I've heard from others that it's difficult to get paint to stick to the aluminum...

Craig C

[danmas]

Hi Dan!

I like the black look at the front of your radiator...did you paint this yourself? If so, did you use any self-etching primer? I've heard from others that it's difficult to get paint to stick to the aluminum...

Craig C

Hi Craig,

I did paint it and used the Eastwood high temp paint. Hadn’t heard about aluminum sticking issues but it wouldn’t shock me. I am also going to put a rock guard on top and that will also be black. It doesn’t have to be perfect but I wanted it black to cover up the bright aluminum. Guess I will see….

[danmas]

Installed the upper radiator hose this morning using I.E.427 Garage (thanks Frank!) method. Also used the Powergrip hose clamps. Link (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CRHLB2?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title). Those work really well….


https://youtube.com/shorts/4ogfTh8WYyU?feature=share

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214391&d=1748466391

Anyone know what rubber hose I can use for a 351W lower radiator? I know about the breeze lower which looks nice but isn’t black and I don’t feel like spending $170 bones for a tube… I don’t like the stock factory five hose…

[Mike.Bray]

I have the Powergrip hose clamps and agree they are great. And look way nicer than worm clamps.

214389

[danmas]

I have the Powergrip hose clamps and agree they are great. And look way nicer than worm clamps.

214389

Pretty sure I ripped off the idea from your build thread.

[BUDFIVE]

Installed the upper radiator hose this morning using I.E.427 Garage (thanks Frank!) method. Also used the Powergrip hose clamps. Link (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CRHLB2?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title). Those work really well….


https://youtube.com/shorts/4ogfTh8WYyU?feature=share

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214391&d=1748466391

Anyone know what rubber hose I can use for a 351W lower radiator? I know about the breeze lower which looks nice but isn’t black and I don’t feel like spending $170 bones for a tube… I don’t like the stock factory five hose…

These are the hoses I used on my 302 based 347-the lower ought to be dang close for 351W. Cut from my build thread post #45. Hoses 3,4 and the billet beaded pipe made the lower.

Coolant system
-Picked four EPDM hoses from Dayco catalog (473 pages of pics). Not a fan of the stainless hose provided in kit. Here’s list if others are interested:
1) DAYCO #70477-1-1/2” upper 90 from vertical tstat housing to billet fill union
2) DAYCO #70543-1-1/2” Upper hose which drops from fill union to upper radiator input.
3) DAYCO #70295-Lower 1-3/4” to 1-1/2” 90 from water pump to 6” union
4) DAYCO #70526-1-1/2” Lower hose from 6” union under xframe to radiator bottom output.
-Acquired 6” aluminum 1.5” beaded pipe for lower union of 2 hoses
-Acquired 6” billet radiator fill for upper hose union. Prefer this to FFR plastic fill section.
-Cut to fit. PVC ratchet knife is perfect for this.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?47734-BUDFIVE%92s-CenTex-Build-Headlights-Seats-amp-Harnesses-COOL!/page2

[danmas]

Dry fit my roll bars today….https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214400&d=1748476737

[danmas]

These are the hoses I used on my 302 based 347-the lower ought to be dang close for 351W. Cut from my build thread post #45. Hoses 3,4 and the billet beaded pipe made the lower.

Coolant system
-Picked four EPDM hoses from Dayco catalog (473 pages of pics). Not a fan of the stainless hose provided in kit. Here’s list if others are interested:
1) DAYCO #70477-1-1/2” upper 90 from vertical tstat housing to billet fill union
2) DAYCO #70543-1-1/2” Upper hose which drops from fill union to upper radiator input.
3) DAYCO #70295-Lower 1-3/4” to 1-1/2” 90 from water pump to 6” union
4) DAYCO #70526-1-1/2” Lower hose from 6” union under xframe to radiator bottom output.
-Acquired 6” aluminum 1.5” beaded pipe for lower union of 2 hoses
-Acquired 6” billet radiator fill for upper hose union. Prefer this to FFR plastic fill section.
-Cut to fit. PVC ratchet knife is perfect for this.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?47734-BUDFIVE%92s-CenTex-Build-Headlights-Seats-amp-Harnesses-COOL!/page2


Thanks for this. Will check it out. Frank (i.e.427 Garage) suggests the following:

Lower hose at water pump side. https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/gates,21178,radiator+hose,10068 The hose that I've used in the past for the forward lower hose, neither are available any longer. I did find this one that looks as though it will fit. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3387&cc=0&pt=10068&jsn=323 For the tube to join them I recommend 1-1/2" stainless tubing, but you could use aluminum. This would be available at your local metal supply house or you can order it from McMaster Carr here: https://www.mcmaster.com/8989K338-8989K337/ For beading the ends of the tubing, I use this tool: https://www.ebay.com/itm/395796297060?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-166974-028196-7&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=395796297060&targetid=2274951440814&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9031250&poi=&campaignid=21202984210&mkgroupid=166522420693&rlsatarget=pla-2274951440814&abcId=9406168&merchantid=5351875430&geoid=9031250&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21202984210

[danmas]

Those of us that are big feet challenged sometimes resort to driving with no shoes. That seems problematic to me. I picked these up for a song the other day and they are very nice…. Size 13 ee.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214409&d=1748496338
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214408&d=1748496338

[danmas]

Little bit of rework today. I installed the Breeze Accelerator pedal a few weeks ago. It’s a nice looking part but it scares me a little bit. I was demonstrating it to a friend and it slipped off the mount the other day. I cranked the set screws pretty good when I installed it but I think the mount isn’t very strong. The mount bent a bit and it looks to be binding on the side.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214444&d=1748562331
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214445&d=1748562331

I took it off and called the vendor. Maybe user error but not something I want to mess around with. The accelerator pedal can kill you if it binds…
I put the factory five one on (as modified according to I.E.427 Garage) and it works just fine and feels a lot more solid.

[Rian_Colorado]

Little bit of rework today. I installed the Breeze Accelerator pedal a few weeks ago. It’s a nice looking part but it scares me a little bit. I was demonstrating it to a friend and it slipped off the mount the other day. I cranked the set screws pretty good when I installed it but I think the mount isn’t very strong. The mount bent a bit and it looks to be binding on the side.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214444&d=1748562331
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214445&d=1748562331

I took it off and called the vendor. Maybe user error but not something I want to mess around with. The accelerator pedal can kill you if it binds…
I put the factory five one on (as modified according to I.E.427 Garage) and it works just fine and feels a lot more solid.

I've had that same concern with the breeze pedal. I plan on using the set screws to get it set up and in the right position and then either tapping into the 3/4 tube or riveting straight to it

[Derald Rice]

The accelerator pedal can kill you if it binds

And that is why kill switches were invented. Please put one on your dash.

[danmas]

I've had that same concern with the breeze pedal. I plan on using the set screws to get it set up and in the right position and then either tapping into the 3/4 tube or riveting straight to it

I’m not certain that will help. It will certainly stabilize it a bit but the metal is quite bendy…. I feel like the bracket should be on the other side to off set the force….it also seems to bind, which is unfortunate….

[cv2065]

If you are interested, TJ at Mountain Metalworks makes an exact copy of Russ’s old version which is a lot thicker and has two long set screws to hold it to the frame.

[ydousurf]

Hey Dan, I have the original Russ Thompson Accelerator Pedal and though it has a more robust block of aluminum with set screws for the mount, I still felt it needed to be more secure mounted to the 3/4” tube. I mean, for what it’s worth, anything with a set screw(s), it is wise to drill an “impression or divot” to accommodate a more secure hold to avoid any slippage.

Anyway, I would suggest, as I did, that you drill another hole with a screw from the top. I believe with a drill extension you can still make that happen. Granted the bracket you can easily add the threads, the 3/4 tube is a little more difficult, but can still be done. However it’s not necessary for the 3/4” tube to be threaded.

What I am saying is that by drilling down from the top and allowing a screw to be screwed into the 3/4” square tube and then tightening the screw until it contacts the inner bottom part of the 3/4” tube. By doing this the bracket will not be able to fall off, slide or move. Just throwing that idea out there. I could post a pic, but I think I explained it.

Doug

[danmas]

Thanks for the tips guys. I have put it to the side for the time being. I may revisit it, but I’m not certain it’s worth the effort and the binding isn’t great either. I can loosen it up a bit, but I feel like the fact that the bracket bent and twisted a little with just a few presses to demonstrate makes me question the whole thing. That feels like something that should be made out of steel… that said, what the hell do I know?

Onword!