lpmagruder
10-20-2022, 10:20 AM
Hi all, thought I'd share these files in case they're useful to someone else at some point.
I'm at the gokart phase of my build now and wanted to be able to start and run the car for brief periods while buttoning up the wiring harness, making sure all the sensors are being read, diagnosing any CEL's before looming/burying the harness, etc. I didn't find a great way to fit the factory airbox in with the parts I had on hand, and once the body is on I plan to build a proper intake path that runs to the right side ducting, so I designed and printed this as a way to get MAF readings in the meantime.
It will accept the factory MAF and attach to the factory diameter turbo inlet intermediate tube (the tube that connected to the airbox on the original car) and will accept a 4" air filter that's available at the usual suspects. The ID and distance between MAF and opening are the same (to the best I could measure) as the factory air box so readings should be "close" to what it's expecting. It's designed to be printed with the smaller end down, and you only need supports in the MAF bore, and you will need to sand smooth the MAF bore before putting the sensor in so you don't damage the O-ring. The factory MAF fasteners will thread-form into the holes.
Pictures:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/2ZHaNCdu76BeYrnw6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/FUcYTtNsUqxQePwo7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/tYaCwfwR1kgPCaS2A
Files:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wuIidOxcRKgLUue1koZjKQPPxCtufUjO/view?usp=sharing
If you print this, please remember that most 3D printing materials cannot handle the sustained high temps that an enclosed engine bay will see, this is meant to be something temporary to bridge between gokart phase and final intake routing once body is installed. I recommend printing in something that can handle reasonably high temps, and triple checking print quality so that there's no boogers that could get sucked into the engine.
I'm at the gokart phase of my build now and wanted to be able to start and run the car for brief periods while buttoning up the wiring harness, making sure all the sensors are being read, diagnosing any CEL's before looming/burying the harness, etc. I didn't find a great way to fit the factory airbox in with the parts I had on hand, and once the body is on I plan to build a proper intake path that runs to the right side ducting, so I designed and printed this as a way to get MAF readings in the meantime.
It will accept the factory MAF and attach to the factory diameter turbo inlet intermediate tube (the tube that connected to the airbox on the original car) and will accept a 4" air filter that's available at the usual suspects. The ID and distance between MAF and opening are the same (to the best I could measure) as the factory air box so readings should be "close" to what it's expecting. It's designed to be printed with the smaller end down, and you only need supports in the MAF bore, and you will need to sand smooth the MAF bore before putting the sensor in so you don't damage the O-ring. The factory MAF fasteners will thread-form into the holes.
Pictures:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/2ZHaNCdu76BeYrnw6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/FUcYTtNsUqxQePwo7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/tYaCwfwR1kgPCaS2A
Files:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wuIidOxcRKgLUue1koZjKQPPxCtufUjO/view?usp=sharing
If you print this, please remember that most 3D printing materials cannot handle the sustained high temps that an enclosed engine bay will see, this is meant to be something temporary to bridge between gokart phase and final intake routing once body is installed. I recommend printing in something that can handle reasonably high temps, and triple checking print quality so that there's no boogers that could get sucked into the engine.