Bruce's long awaited journey begins: #1294

[Mastertech5]

I finally picked up my stage 1 kit on June 10th after waiting 2 years to order. Got a rearend out of a '89 Mustang and upgraded it to 31 spline axles and a limited slip with 3.55 gears. Added Cobra rear discs and adjustable upper control arms. That was 2 years ago. 2 days of inventory, got it up on jack stands and got the rearend installed. Now I had a dilemma. What to do next. Almost every area I could work on had parts missing to be shipped later. I put in the pedal box and ran the brake lines. Hmm what next, fuel lines external fuel pump, filters ect. Now I'm stuck. I have no springs for the front coil overs, 2 clevices for the lower control arms, no spindles (not alone there I hear) and whole boxes of stuff. FFR said about the end of August. I have the engine (LS3), trans (TREMEC TKX), clutch but no bellhousing (backordered), but I didn't get the LS install parts either. I'm not complaining, just letting you guys know where I'm at. So I will wait impatiently for more stuff to arrive.
Thanks to JimLev for advice on power steering, A.C. and Alternator placement.

How do you guys post your build info at the bottom of each of your posts? I can't figure it out.

[Pat Landymore]

Sorry to learn of all the waiting you need to do….
I’d likely lose my mind…Ha! 😂

To answer your question:

Log in,
Go along the top of the screen and click on Settings.

When the new screen opens, look along the left hand side for My Settings. Under that you’ll see My Profile, and below that you’ll see Edit Signature. Click on that and go for it.

Cheers!
Pat

[Mastertech5]

Thanks!
Bruce

[Mastertech5]

Test for signature.

[33fromSD]

Not sure if it was back ordered or not but if you have them you could do the aluminum floor panels on frame on the top and bottom. Also the aluminum panel on the firewall can be done. Hundreds of rivets is always fun right? :)

Did you get the steering column & wire harness? You could start installing that.

The important thing is to enjoy the build. Good luck, send lots of pics.

[Mastertech5]

Got the harness but no steering column. I didn't get the boxed aluminum so no rivet hole guide. I have the curved upper firewall but no footwell pieces to align the firewall up properly. Today I am going to try to make a mount for the charcoal canister that came with the engine and a location under the fuel tank. It's bigger the the FFR one but is specific for my set-up.
I bought a n air riveter from Harbor Freight in anticipation of all the riveting to do. After I get the canister mounted I should be able to finish up with the gas tank and connections.

[Namrups]

I was shorted my rivet spacer also. I picked up an adjustable one from Mark at Breeze Automotive. Similar to the one in the picture but twice a big. Part number 20370. $46.00. Not cheap but works great.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158734&d=1639688172

[33fromSD]

Got the harness but no steering column. I didn't get the boxed aluminum so no rivet hole guide. I have the curved upper firewall but no footwell pieces to align the firewall up properly. Today I am going to try to make a mount for the charcoal canister that came with the engine and a location under the fuel tank. It's bigger the the FFR one but is specific for my set-up.
I bought a air riveter from Harbor Freight in anticipation of all the riveting to do. After I get the canister mounted I should be able to finish up with the gas tank and connections.

Bummer, sounds like FFR is hurting for parts. When I got my kit in Sept of 2020 I think I had maybe 8 items missing out of everything.

Jim

[RoadRacer]

Dang, that's tough. I kept having ideas, and then I'd read a bit further and you can't do that either.

[Mastertech5]

I did get the steering rack and that is installed. I got this bare metal bracket in the box with the pedal box and I think they called it a support bracket. I haven't figured out what it's for yet. Steering column maybe? I would post a picture but I haven't figured out how to do that either.

[RoadRacer]

I did get the steering rack and that is installed. I got this bare metal bracket in the box with the pedal box and I think they called it a support bracket. I haven't figured out what it's for yet. Steering column maybe? I would post a picture but I haven't figured out how to do that either.

pics?

[JimLev]

To post a pic see the pic.
After you do that pick From Computer……find your pic, then upload it.

169770

[Mastertech5]

Thanks Jim I'll give it a go. Now I have to find the bracket. Stay tuned.

[Mastertech5]

I was shorted my rivet spacer also. I picked up an adjustable one from Mark at Breeze Automotive. Similar to the one in the picture but twice a big. Part number 20370. $46.00. Not cheap but works great.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158734&d=1639688172

Wow that's quite a contraption. I might just make my own with a piece of band iron, a straight edge and tape measure. More holes to drill. I bought 3 of the numbered drill bits from Mark for the rivets. I can't find 2 of them now!

[Mastertech5]

Anyone recognize this bracket169775

[edwardb]

Anyone recognize this bracket169775

Transmission mount.

[Brave Salmon]

Wow that's quite a contraption. I might just make my own with a piece of band iron, a straight edge and tape measure. More holes to drill. I bought 3 of the numbered drill bits from Mark for the rivets. I can't find 2 of them now!
I have the silly little rivet spacer. If anyone is really needing it, I will gladly send it along for the cost of postage. just pm me and off it goes.

[Mastertech5]

Thanks EdwardB. That sounds and looks right.

Bruce

[McGuyver]

Welcome! On your accessory drives keep in mind that the gen 1 has room to fit a/c and alternator in down low with the LS3 like JimLev did. The gen 2’s have lower set of suspension holes to allow for a higher ride height. I am using those holes on my truck and for me the tabs interfered with the a/c and alternator placement. You might still be able to make it work but I punted and went with the Holley mid-mount system. Front runner has one that works too but it is a bit pricey. Holley has had good Black Friday sales in the past, secret is finding it in stock somewhere so you are not waiting on back order.

[Mastertech5]

Thanks for the info on the accessory drives. I want to get the engine in and take some measurements then see what's up. I am also using the lower holes for a little more ground clearance. Our roads in Mass are terrible. My cousin has a 35 Plymouth and he scraped his whole exhaust on a speed bump in the parking lot at the fall Hot August Nights show in Reno. At least he won top prize for his trouble. Mostly locals, nothing like the BIG summer show.
I just got an email from FedEx. 2 boxes for a total of 82lbs. coming from FFR Saturday. Whoo hoo!!

[JimLev]

If you got the standard non adjustable Koni coil overs set then so the chassis is higher than specified.
It’s much easier to lower them after the car is built. Almost impossible to raise it after it’s built is what I’m finding.

Did you get fenders and running boards too?

[Mastertech5]

I cut the left rear lower control arm mount ear for steering rack clearance already so I'm committed. I ordered the Konis that come standard. They say they are 1 way adjustable. What that means I'm not sure. Maybe just that you can set the ride height by raising or lowering the spring seat?
I'm getting bike fenders. I got the basic kit so body is yet to come. I'll order it this fall so I can pick it up next Spring.

[Mastertech5]

I got 2 boxes of parts on my POL Saturday. Spindles but no front springs and no left hand thread clevices. So I still can't assemble the front suspension. The paintable tilt steering column came and I sprayed it with clear along with the handles. The brushed metal looks great. Heat and sound insulating kit too and some various hardware.
I made a bracket for my GM canister to mount under the fuel tank. Pics to come. One of the steering arms you bolt to the spindles had to be modified a little because it didn't sit flat on the spindle.

[Mastertech5]

Here's some pics

Rear end installed
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Rear Cobra brakes
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Canister and bracket
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Steering column
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Steering rack
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Pedal box
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I quit for the day. Way too humid to keep at it. I could ring out my tee shirt!

[33fromSD]

Nice!! I clear coated my steering column as well, also cleaned up, buffed and then cleared the upper & lower control arms and all still look great. I agree that the machine finish on the Ididit column looks great cleared.

Jim

[Mastertech5]

I bolted the steering arms to the spindles and something looked funny on the drivers side. The drop in the arm was up not down. Got 2 right side arms. Sent an email to customer service last night and they are shipping the correct one today. Should get tomorrow. I only live about 50 miles west. Great service FFR!

[RoadRacer]

(silly thing but you might want to rename this build thread if you can? :D Makes it easier for us to get context of which build we're following. At least put your name or the last four of your build in the title? e.g. Mine is #997)

[33fromSD]

I bolted the steering arms to the spindles and something looked funny on the drivers side. The drop in the arm was up not down. Got 2 right side arms. Sent an email to customer service last night and they are shipping the correct one today. Should get tomorrow. I only live about 50 miles west. Great service FFR!

Yup, FFR really does have great customer service, I never had any issues and their responsiveness rivals major companies I work with.

Jim

[Mastertech5]

(silly thing but you might want to rename this build thread if you can? :D Makes it easier for us to get context of which build we're following. At least put your name or the last four of your build in the title? e.g. Mine is #997)

Where do I find that number? I can't find it on the paperwork. Bruce

[Mastertech5]

I found a thread on how to change the thread title.
It is now named:
Bruce's long awaited journey begins: #1294

Thanks for the advice RoadRacer.

[Mastertech5]

Today I drilled the holes in the under tank panel. Yes I found the drill bits I bought from Mark Reynolds. I slid it back just enough to still cover all the tubes behind the roll bar. Sides fit ok. Drilled a few holes into the frame and put a few Breeze wedgelock temp fasteners ( like Clecos). Got some bulkhead fittings for fuel, return and vent lines. Need to locate position for each.

[Mastertech5]

After taking a couple of days off and ordering a 12 inch long #30 aircraft drill bit from Amazon I was able to drill the two side front holes in the tubes for the aluminum panel. The slanted tubes going up toward the back didn't allow a drill to get a straight shot at drklling. The bit would have skated.

I mocked up the various lines from the tank to the bulkhead fittings in the panel. Left to right, vent, return, fuel feed.

170270

I got a notification from FedEx that another box is coming from FFR tomorrow, YES!
Get the FedEx app and you can turn on noticications. They'll send you a text if you put in your phone #. Tracking info just shows up when a package is sent to you.

[Mastertech5]

Saturday morning I spent mostly on my back, drill in hand. I had marked and drilled all the holes in the upper and lower floor aluminum Fri night. For my own curiosity I counted, all total 164 holes for just the lower panels and frame tubes. I have the 3M 5200 sealer coming Sunday. Sat night I drilled the upper floor holes in the frame tubes for the right side. Sun I'll do the left
My box came from FFR and it didn't have anything I need now. A.C. hoses and fittings, the missing DD steering shaft and a mounting bracket for the FFR canister that I'm not using. I wish I was getting stuff I need now like boxed aluminum, LS install kit, and the missing front suspension parts. Oh well, they will come.

Bruce

[Mastertech5]

This week I finalized my fuel tank and lines, installed the under tank panel and connected the vent, return and feed lines. I only ran the fuel line and evap purge line to the frame under the passenger side door opening because I'm waiting for the boxed aluminum so I can install the foot boxes and firewall.
I
Tank I installed

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Rear view

Views of filter, pump and prefilter.

170696170697

[Mastertech5]

Today without much else to do I decided to check the clearance of the front 13" Cobra brake calipers after buying some 8mm spacers. I had checked before and they seemed to hit the wheel spokes but were okay as far as wheel diameter. I didn't have the spindles so it was a guess. I made a good choice. They fit just right now.

170690170691

Then I wanted see want the rears looked like on so here's a pic.

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Hard to get a wider view with my crowded garage.

[TxMike64]

170690


Those wheels look sharp! Great choice!
They look similar to the wheels on the FFR 1/2 car.

[Mastertech5]

Yes I know.they're kinda like the Bonneville wheels. I was going to get American Racing Torque thrust II but Wheel Pros bought them out and started carrying only standard sizes and most of the old stock wasn't available. I like these better. You can get different back spacing/ offsets if you order directly from Race Star, at a higher cost of course. I ordered these from Summit.

[Mastertech5]

Today I got 2 more boxes on my POL. everything for the front suspension I needed except the two left hand clevises and eight nuts for the control arm bolts. Packaged aluminum, LS install kit except the spacers for the engine mounts, hot water control valve & module. At least I can start putting the front suspension together and get rid of the wind chimes that have been hanging on my garage door rails since I painted and cleared them. Started on foot boxes and firewall. Centered and mated panels to each other and marked for drilling. Tomorrow is another day with something to do at last.

[33fromSD]

Today I got 2 more boxes on my POL. everything for the front suspension I needed except the two left hand clevises and eight nuts for the control arm bolts. Packaged aluminum, LS install kit except the spacers for the engine mounts, hot water control valve & module. At least I can start putting the front suspension together and get rid of the wind chimes that have been hanging on my garage door rails since I painted and cleared them. Started on foot boxes and firewall. Centered and mated panels to each other and marked for drilling. Tomorrow is another day with something to do at last.

Don't let 8 nuts missing for the control arms stop you, just run to your local hardware store and pick up come nuts.

Jim

[Jeff33Ford]

Today I got 2 more boxes on my POL. everything for the front suspension I needed except the two left hand clevises and eight nuts for the control arm bolts. Packaged aluminum, LS install kit except the spacers for the engine mounts, hot water control valve & module. At least I can start putting the front suspension together and get rid of the wind chimes that have been hanging on my garage door rails since I painted and cleared them. Started on foot boxes and firewall. Centered and mated panels to each other and marked for drilling. Tomorrow is another day with something to do at last.

Since I have not got mine yet either. I did not wait I ordered these. I told FFR to just send them to the next guy in line. From the input I got here these are a better choice anyway
https://www.mcmaster.com/92461A101/

[Mastertech5]

I put it all together as much as I could with what I had. Notice the front adjustment rods are missing, still no clevises.
171235

Don't mind the mess, I haven't picked up yet today. If I don't I won't be able to find anything, tools or parts.

[Mastertech5]

Don't let 8 nuts missing for the control arms stop you, just run to your local hardware store and pick up come nuts.

Jim

My local store doesn't have anything over 1/2 inch.

[Mastertech5]

I have a firewall question I posted in the Body and Interior thread under Question about interior panels. If you can help it would be great.

[33fromSD]

My local store doesn't have anything over 1/2 inch.

Bummer

Jim

[cob427sc]

There are several industrial supply stores in Worcester (Tri-state Fasteners is one) that would have your nuts. Only a short drive from Spencer. You could also try McMaster-Carr. When I order odd fasteners from them they usually show up the next day.

[Mastertech5]

There are several industrial supply stores in Worcester (Tri-state Fasteners is one) that would have your nuts. Only a short drive from Spencer. You could also try McMaster-Carr. When I order odd fasteners from them they usually show up the next day.

Thanks cob427sc. If it gets to a point where I absolutely need them I'll go to Worcester. I just hate the idea of buying something I've already paid for. Lots more to do. I have everything to put in my LS3 except the long spacers for the motor mounts and the blowshield. They're supposed to ship it Monday. Maybe I'll make spacers.

[33fromSD]

Thanks cob427sc. If it gets to a point where I absolutely need them I'll go to Worcester. I just hate the idea of buying something I've already paid for. Lots more to do. I have everything to put in my LS3 except the long spacers for the motor mounts and the blowshield. They're supposed to ship it Monday. Maybe I'll make spacers.

You're actually going to be surprised at the amount of hardware you have left over after your build is done. Between some of the tweaks / modifications I made, some of the HW I bought on my own either cause I was waiting on HW or I didn't like the HW that FFR sent, replacements from FFR, and just extra's FFR supplies in their kits, I have one of those 1 gallon ice cream pails 1/2 filled with extra hardware (bolts, nuts, spacers, washers, clips, etc) that I now use when doing other vehicle build projects I'm working on.

Jim

[Mastertech5]

I got the firewall position right, drilled and clecoed in place. Of all the things we do to build these awesome machines, drilling holes is the worst. It takes more out of me than anything else. Foot wells are next. They are clamped in place right now. The suggestion to use the insulation pieces to gauge the firewall position was brilliant. I put mine in place where I had clamped the firewall in place and it was spot on. Makes me feel better knowing for sure though.

[CaptB]

I got the firewall position right, drilled and clecoed in place. Of all the things we do to build these awesome machines, drilling holes is the worst. It takes more out of me than anything else. Foot wells are next. They are clamped in place right now. The suggestion to use the insulation pieces to gauge the firewall position was brilliant. I put mine in place where I had clamped the firewall in place and it was spot on. Makes me feel better knowing for sure though.

Wait until you get to the wiring! At least that's the least favorable for me.

[RoadRacer]

I got the firewall position right, drilled and clecoed in place. Of all the things we do to build these awesome machines, drilling holes is the worst. It takes more out of me than anything else. Foot wells are next. They are clamped in place right now. The suggestion to use the insulation pieces to gauge the firewall position was brilliant. I put mine in place where I had clamped the firewall in place and it was spot on. Makes me feel better knowing for sure though.

LOL if you haven't already, start buying up clecos :D You'll need a bunch

[Mastertech5]

When I was at Breeze Automotive on my way back from picking up my kit I bought some of Mark's version of clecos. I wanted to get 10- 3/16 ones but he said I shouldn't need that many so I bought 5. Should have got 10. I have 20 of the 1/8 size and I wish I had a few more. He's used to building roadsters though.

[Mastertech5]

Hey CaptB, I am one of those rare birds that actually like wiring. It can get frustrating at times but a good schematic is your friend, assuming you know how to read them. They are like looking at a road map to me. Finding shorts in cars for 35 years tends to give you a good feel for it. I'm going to need to integrate the FFR chassis harness with my LS3 harness. Can't wait. I bought a connector kit with several 1 wire up to 6 wire male and female connectors and it came with the crimp tool and weather seals with male and female terminals.

[JimLev]

You’ll find that some of the LS3 and tranny harnesses are way too long for these cars.
I removed individual wires not needed and shortened some of them.
Next I removed some of the corrugated flex tubing then wrapped the wires with automotive cloth tape.
This reduced the diameter by at least 1/2 the size it previously was.

[Mastertech5]

You’ll find that some of the LS3 and tranny harnesses are way too long for these cars.
I removed individual wires not needed and shortened some of them.
Next I removed some of the corrugated flex tubing then wrapped the wires with automotive cloth tape.
This reduced the diameter by at least 1/2 the size it previously was.

I have a manual trans so no tranny wiring except for 2 sensors. I took a quick peek at the LS3 harness when the engine came but haven't got to the point of fitting to the car yet. I have to polish or paint the firewall and install and then attach the floors. I'm assuming you rivet the top floor panels to the foot boxes. They aren't level with the front tubes that the floor mounts to and I tried to bring them up higher but they're as high as I could get them.

[JimLev]

I forgot you had a manual. I did rivet the floor and pedal boxes. You’ve got a Gen 2 which (I think) has different floor panels than my Gen 1. Mine are just a thin aluminum sheet.

[BradC]

I did an LS3 on my last build. The wiring isn't bad at all - but, I do remember the PCV system not making sense in the manual they provide. GMPP gave me these files which made it very simple. It's been 5 years so they may have improved the docs that come with it, but for what it's worth here they are. It might be a little different with the eRod you have too.

171320 171321

[Iziks]

I had same build date and still waiting on clevises as well. I have a POL shipment coming Monday, but not sure what is there. Meanwhile, I am pretty sure these are the clevises. If mine don’t come Monday, I may go this route to make some progress. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/QA1-CL8-12-1-Carbon-Steel-Clevis-0-500-in-Bore-3-4-16-LH,261063.html

[Mastertech5]

I forgot you had a manual. I did rivet the floor and pedal boxes. You’ve got a Gen 2 which (I think) has different floor panels than my Gen 1. Mine are just a thin aluminum sheet.

Same here about the floors. Does Gen.1 have a sandwiched floor with the foam in between too?

[Mastertech5]

I did an LS3 on my last build. The wiring isn't bad at all - but, I do remember the PCV system not making sense in the manual they provide. GMPP gave me these files which made it very simple. It's been 5 years so they may have improved the docs that come with it, but for what it's worth here they are. It might be a little different with the eRod you have too.

171320 171321

Yes mine is like the second one. I had to read it half a dozen times to understand the routing. I kept thinking the dirty air went to the intake tube before the MAF. That didn't make sense because then it would get the MAF oil soaked. I finally got it through my thick skull it is the fresh air that goes there after the MAF. DUH

[Mastertech5]

I had same build date and still waiting on clevises as well. I have a POL shipment coming Monday, but not sure what is there. Meanwhile, I am pretty sure these are the clevises. If mine don’t come Monday, I may go this route to make some progress. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/QA1-CL8-12-1-Carbon-Steel-Clevis-0-500-in-Bore-3-4-16-LH,261063.html

Thanks for the link. They look like the ones. For that kind of money I'm not going to wait if they don't come soon. I've gotten most of the POL stuff (3 shipments) but still don't have some vital stuff to button some things up. Do you have the 8 big deformed thread nuts for the control arms? I'm still waiting on those too.

[Mastertech5]

I didn't know if I wanted to paint the firewall or polish it. If I painted it I wanted to be the body color, which I haven't decided on yet, so I stood back and stared at it for a while and decided to polish it. I just couldn't bring myself to cover all that shine. I ordered some super fine discs and buffing pads for my random orbital sander, some aluminum polish and I have WD 40 for sanding. Just have to drill the holes to mount the reservoirs and off it comes to po!ish.

By the way that's not my car in the picture on the left but I had a 65 fastback in my youth. It was yellow. I loved that car.

[Iziks]

No nuts either

[JimLev]

Same here about the floors. Does Gen.1 have a sandwiched floor with the foam in between too?

Gen 1 floors are not sandwiched, just a sheet of aluminum with the mufflers 1/2” below the floors. The heat was unbearable until I insulated the mufflers and pipes.

[33fromSD]

Gen 1 floors are not sandwiched, just a sheet of aluminum with the mufflers 1/2” below the floors. The heat was unbearable until I insulated the mufflers and pipes.

On the Gen2 set up, the foam sandwiched between the aluminum panels may help a tad but the heat is still really bad.

On my first longer cruise when I completed the 33 I had a zip lock bag with my registration and insurance info in it under the seat cushion that flips up sitting on top of the 1/4" mdf board breeze automotive supplies with their seat frames which was a good 2 inches above the carpet and the exhaust got so hot which radiated through the floor that I melted the plastic baggie to the foam under the seat and the carpet under the floor mats on both sides which I only tacked in on the edges with glue (you could lift the middle up a little) was fully bonded to the aluminum, you could no longer lift it.. Keep in mind I'm not running a hard top so if I'm getting bad heat radiated up I feel sorry for everyone running a hard top where there is no where for the heat to go..

I did the same as JimLev, and went a couple steps further. First I installed heat shields around the mufflers, also the headers, and wrapped the pipes which run under the floor area which helped a bunch inside but it still got toasty so next I removed the exhaust, and installed DEI Boom Mat (black thermal & accoustic mat) on the entire floor, trans tunnel & trunk area (yes, I am aware this is designed to go on the inside of the car but the adhesion properties to the aluminum panels is amazing and it's not going anywhere and then where the exhaust system runs I installed DEI Boom Floor & Tunnel heat shield, installed it so it's 3-4" beyond the pipes and mufflers, and then reinstalled the exhaust.

With all of the above the sound of road noise, mechanical noises & other noise from other things in the car is gone in the cockpit, the car sounds so much more solid, and the heat reduction is amazing too. So much better than before I did anything. It was quite a bit of work to do it but I'm glad I did.

I guess the short story is, anyone expecting these 3/4" foam panels sandwhiched between the aluminum to shield the extreme heat from the exhaust is going to be very disappointed.

Jim

[Mastertech5]

I have a plan to attach aluminum sheet to the floor spaced about 1/4" down, front to just after the cockpit. I just hope I have the space to do it. My engine came with cats (primary and secondary on each pipe but I don't know how they are going to land in reference to the floors yet. I just need all my parts.

Has anyone read the thread about the guy that got the 3 link frame instead of the IRS frame he ordered. Dave Smith even posted vowing to fix the situation ASAP. The customer is MAD!!!!

[BradC]

Has anyone read the thread about the guy that got the 3 link frame instead of the IRS frame he ordered. Dave Smith even posted vowing to fix the situation ASAP. The customer is MAD!!!!

I had the opposite happen. I got the IRS chassis when it was supposed to be just the 4 link. Cost me $600 to have it all cut out clean (vs. just doing a few brackets myself) so I could do the custom rear. Kind of irritating.

[Mastertech5]

Why didn't you call FFR and have them send you the right one or ask them to pay the $600 to have it done. They really are a stand-up company.

[BradC]

I didn’t want to wait for a new chassis just for that. I guess I could have asked them to compensate but it was my choice to have it removed. Whatever.

[Iziks]

Got my POL today. Still no nuts. I think I s sourced them here. https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=17712

[Mastertech5]

Got my POL today. Still no nuts. I think I s sourced them here. https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=17712

When did you get your kit? I've have mine for over 2 months. Got most of my POL but I'm still waiting for key parts. I ordered a blowshield and TKX trans the end of JUNE. Got the trans in 3 days and I'm still waiting for the blowshield. It was suppose to ship today but now it's been delayed another week. Originally to be shipped Aug 10th.

[Iziks]

Kit ordered back in Nov, June 10 kit completion date. Ordered the motor and trans in Jan as I knew there was a big wait there. It came late May. My POL after today is IRS axles, LS exhaust manifold, Wilwood brakes (Oct for those) and a bunch of hardware. Ordered all the hardware today - was under $100 total - so I could at least get something assembled. I was missing key hardware from front suspension, rear suspension, and LS motor mounts. So I really could not do much.

[Mastertech5]

Kit ordered back in Nov, June 10 kit completion date. Ordered the motor and trans in Jan as I knew there was a big wait there. It came late May. My POL after today is IRS axles, LS exhaust manifold, Wilwood brakes (Oct for those) and a bunch of hardware. Ordered all the hardware today - was under $100 total - so I could at least get something assembled. I was missing key hardware from front suspension, rear suspension, and LS motor mounts. So I really could not do much.

I ordered my engine in mid June from Summit and it said "to ship late august/early Sept. from manufacturer." It came in 1 week from a dealer in Texas who had one in stock willing to sell it back to GM. Lucky for me! I got all the LS install parts last weekend except the mount spacers and exhaust headers. My engine came with the stock manifolds. I was going to make spacers from 1/2 black pipe for now just so I can do a mock up to route the fuel and purge lines but now my bellhousing is delayed another week. I'm getting sick of this supply chain s__t. The EVAP purge line, from purge valve to firewall connection, just got delayed a month. I just want to scream!😤

[Mastertech5]

Bought 2 pieces of 4 1/4" - 3/8 pipe and made motor mount spacers. 2 that are 2.28" and 2 that are .14"(listed as a shock shim). They fit very tight like when putting the shocks in.

171443

A couple more of the engine

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Brake and clutch reservoirs mock up before I polish the firewall.

171446

[Mastertech5]

I put my engine in today so I could figure out where to run the fuel and purge lines to on the firewall. No trans yet. blowshield is suppose to ship Tues. It's already been delayed twice, we'll see. I had to remove the thermostat housing because the nipple hit the upper frame tube. Flipping it around won't work either. I hope I can find one that points down or adjustable. The thermostat is attached to it so wish me luck.

171583

[Mastertech5]

I assumed the thermostat was attached to the housing because it came out with the housing, but it's not. The GMC trucks I worked on were attached but those were older than 2004 when they changed to a long style more conventional one. I ordered a Mr Gasket 360 degree swivel housing. It was more than I expected but it is what it is.

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The EVAP line I had ordered from Summit has been discontinued unbeknownst to them. I found out when trying to get one from a dealer (2x the $). That was for a newer Camaro. Got one from Rock Auto for a Corvette in 1 day. They didn't have the Camaro one either.

[JimLev]

I used the Mr. Gasket swivel t-stat housing too.
I pulled out the 2 coolant fittings that run to the cabin heater, tapped the holes and screwed in elbow fittings.

[Mastertech5]

I used the Mr. Gasket swivel t-stat housing too.
I pulled out the 2 coolant fittings that run to the cabin heater, tapped the holes and screwed in elbow fittings.

That's what I'm doing with the heater pipes too. Waiting for taps and fittings. I ordered the Dirty Dingo LS low mount a.c. Compressor and mount kit. It should fit per my measurements. I made a mock up alt with card stock from a picture I found with measurements of the housing it should fit too with th ICT bracket and Powermaster alt you used, except I opted for the natural finish. It's almost $100 cheaper. It's not a show car, just a project to have fun with and drive around when done.
I was going to ask you about what you did about the heater pipes. I found a YouTube video an LS guy showed how to tap the holes. Took a while to find elbows with nipples short enough to be able to screw them in without hitting the other one. I had to cut the tabs off the side of the stock gm o-ring gasket and then spent about 1/2 hour getting it into the housing, very tight. Now I have to take it off to collect chips when I tap the heater pipe holes.

[JimLev]

Put some grease on the tap, the chips will stick to it.
I bought my alt from some guy on the LS forum, I got a good deal on it.

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171822

[Mastertech5]

I got my HVAC box mounted today so I can drill the holes through the firewall for the 4 pipes. Got the spots measured out and marked. The compressor will be here soon, so I can mount that and figure out the hose routing. Then I'll be able to crimp the ends on the hoses. Got an estimate to crimp 12 ends for $100. I bought the Mastercool manual tool instead. I haven't ordered the body kit yet so no grill to mount the radiator and condenser. My bellhousing got delayed for 2 more weeks. I called Summit and they called QuickTime (owned by Holley) and they assured me Holley would ship it direct to me on the 15th. The alternator should be here Sunday along with a spacer/bushing kit. Bracket is installed waiting.
This wouldn't post the other day and then just showed up while I was typing a newer one. ?

[Mastertech5]

Those pics above were suppose to go in this post. My alternator set up is exactly the same as JimLev's. I bought a separate bushing kit to make custom sizes as needed. I did the AC the same too but made some changes to the front upper bracket ear and compressor ear. I cut the bracket and had a piece welded on to relocate the bolt hole. I cut the end of the compressor ear off and drilled and tapped a new hole further in all to clear the rear UCA.

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If any one is interested, Mike at Replica Parts (Bronze Vendor) has a inner firewall piece to give you better options to mount things under the dash and a cooling fan shroud for the radiator for better air flow through the radiator. I picked them up on the way to get my kit. You'll have to modify the firewall piece some of you have AC. I'll post a picture when I get to that point.

[Mastertech5]

Pics above show invalid links so let's try again!

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These pics go with the last post on page 2.

[Mastertech5]

It's funny how you find out about things sometimes. I located a welder here in town and stopped by with my A.C. bracket to get an estimate. He was located in a building with a machine shop. 2 guys working there said that the welder was upstairs but wasn't there. I explained what I wanted done and they said he only did micro welding. One of the guys told me his son probably would do it for me at his shop and told me it was about a half mile down the road. So off I went. Turns out it's a LS specialty performance speed shop and he TIG welded it for me. Very nice guy. He sells parts too and said anything I might need be could get or have in stock. I'm going to have to get the air intake tube fabricated and he said no problem. He'd get me some tubes and I could cut and mark them and he would weld them up and weld the MAF bung on. COOL! I want to try to get the air filter toward the left head as far away from the radiator as possible. Thinking ahead I was toying with the idea of putting some kind of small scoop or open louver reversed on the side covers for fresh air instead of all that hot air flowing through the radiator and then 2 more further back to let some hot air out. TBD
I had no idea the speed shop was there. It's the third building back from the street. No fancy sign or much of anything to let you know it's there. When I was a teenager there seemed to be a speed shop for parts in every town and us motor/gear heads would do the work ourselves. This guy and his brother upgrade older vehicles with LS power plants and any other mods you might want. Most of the engine machine shops have disappeared too. Not much gets rebuilt any more. I used to rebuild starters, alternators, steering racks, carburetors and transmissions. Now you just replace it with a factory "remanufactured part" or new. Today modifying your vehicle seems like putting on some wheels a big stereo, a K&N air filter and some accessories. There are a few younger people out there that are still into performance but most of us are older and want to relive the glory days of raw horsepower. Like the end of Roadkill, Hot Rod Garage or Roadkill Garage. Burnouts baby!

[33fromSD]

It's funny how you find out about things sometimes. I located a welder here in town and stopped by with my A.C. bracket to get an estimate. He was located in a building with a machine shop. 2 guys working there said that the welder was upstairs but wasn't there. I explained what I wanted done and they said he only did micro welding. One of the guys told me his son probably would do it for me at his shop and told me it was about a half mile down the road. So off I went. Turns out it's a LS specialty performance speed shop and he TIG welded it for me. Very nice guy. He sells parts too and said anything I might need be could get or have in stock. I'm going to have to get the air intake tube fabricated and he said no problem. He'd get me some tubes and I could cut and mark them and he would weld them up and weld the MAF bung on. COOL! I want to try to get the air filter toward the left head as far away from the radiator as possible. Thinking ahead I was toying with the idea of putting some kind of small scoop or open louver reversed on the side covers for fresh air instead of all that hot air flowing through the radiator and then 2 more further back to let some hot air out. TBD
I had no idea the speed shop was there. It's the third building back from the street. No fancy sign or much of anything to let you know it's there. When I was a teenager there seemed to be a speed shop for parts in every town and us motor/gear heads would do the work ourselves. This guy and his brother upgrade older vehicles with LS power plants and any other mods you might want. Most of the engine machine shops have disappeared too. Not much gets rebuilt any more. I used to rebuild starters, alternators, steering racks, carburetors and transmissions. Now you just replace it with a factory "remanufactured part" or new. Today modifying your vehicle seems like putting on some wheels a big stereo, a K&N air filter and some accessories. There are a few younger people out there that are still into performance but most of us are older and want to relive the glory days of raw horsepower. Like the end of Roadkill, Hot Rod Garage or Roadkill Garage. Burnouts baby!

And these types of shops are usually as busy or busier than normal business who advertise because they growth their business & customer base on word of mouth from past customer experiences who were very satisfied with the work and recommend to others. I love these types of businesses in my town.

I use them quite a bit. I found a local drive shaft shop several years ago in town and have since used them on 4 drives shafts for my various projects and recommended them about a dozen times.

Jim

[Mastertech5]

Over the weekend I removed the heater hose nipples on the water pump, tapped the holes and installed 45 degree fittings. The straight tubes weren't going to work with the frame rail. I guess many LS swappers do this and put various fittings in for their intended

172379

Then I had to figure out where and how to mount the heater control valve and module. It took awhile but this is what I came up with.

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I traced out the measurements for the bulkhead fittings and drilled the holes. Had to file them a little to make them fit right together.

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Then I figured out the best place for the AC accumulator/dryer for hose routing.

172339

I put the heater hose fittings on the inside and pointed them at the heater hose pipes. They don't line up even close to putting a hose on at least one of them. Too close and to much of an a angle to each other. I looked for shorter ones but couldn't find any. One of the hoses, when I put it on, would rub on the back of the fan motor

Anyone else run into this problem too? The pipes don't exactly bend very easily, I tried!

[Mastertech5]

I started a thread yesterday about my heater pipe problem and professed my ignorance about causing the whole problem by mixing up the upper heater pipe and the large AC line on the bulkhead. After swapping them and bending the heater pipes slightly everything lined up just fine.

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I ordered 2 - 45 degree heater pipe fittings for the engine side. The straight ones that come in the AC kit aren't working for me. They are so long they go over the frame tube. $10 each from Summit. Amazon wanted $24 each.
The AC fitting crimper works good. On the large fittings though I have to start the crimp and turn the fitting one crimp and finish to keep it from from bulging on opposite sides. We'll see if they leak next spring I guess. I bought a vacuum pump and gauge set in late spring . My rear high side AC line on my Acadia leaked. So I spliced in a new tube with these nifty unions from Dorman and I knew I could use it then and on my 33 instead of spending a little less twice. R134a is about twice as much at a shop per pound than Walmart plus labor. We used to get $125 plus R134a to evacuate and recharge a system, so do the math. Vacuum pump and gauge kit was $165.

[Mastertech5]

Finally got my clevises for the front LCAs. Was able to put the front end together. Hubs, rotors, calipers, wheels and tires. It's a roller, I just can't steer it yet.

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The 45 degree heater pipes are coming today so I can finish up the heater hoses. Now that I have all the holes drilled in the firewall and foot boxes I'll pull them of and polish them up. My bellhousing got delayed another 2 weeks. I'm really getting frustrated with them. I can still do the floors I guess.
Does anyone know what the big washers in the front suspension hardware pack are for? There are 4 of them. I Went through the manual and didn't see any reference to them.

[Mastertech5]

I ordered my Stage 2 body kit today. I should be able to pick it up in late April hopefully with all the main parts needed. I do have the bike fenders kit thanks to BradC. I don't have a heated garage so I have about 1 1/2 months to get done what I'd like to, floors, steering, interior panels, trans and some wiring. I have all my boxes on pallets that are used to store wood pellets for my 2 pellet stoves, so some moving and rearranging is needed soon.

[BradC]

Wow - lead times are still pretty long with them huh? Sounds like it works out pretty well though with the work on hand and limitations during winter. It'll come up quick enough. Do you think you'll be firing it up before winter?

[Mastertech5]

Wow - lead times are still pretty long with them huh? Sounds like it works out pretty well though with the work on hand and limitations during winter. It'll come up quick enough. Do you think you'll be firing it up before winter?

I highly doubt it. Have the wedding in Hawaii in October and one next weekend too. Still waiting for the bellhousing also. Suppose to ship on the 29th. 4th delay from Aug. 10th.

I riveted the lower floor panels on tonight (yesterday now). Had fun with that marine adhesive goop. BLAH!

[Mastertech5]

I put the stock exhaust manifolds that came with my engine on today to see how the Cats would fit. NOT! The manifold outlets are about 3/4" out too far on each side causing the down pipes to hit the frame tubes on either side. The flanges are also horizontal. I took out the FFR down pipes out and the mating flanges are slanted. Oh goody, exhaust modification will be needed. The Hooker manifolds are still on backorder from FFR although they are in stock on Holley's website. I'm going to have to cut the very short pipe on the Cats and the FFR down pipes and have them welded at the correct angles.

172661

[Mastertech5]

FFR manifolds coming tomorrow. Now we can see how things might fit. My bellhousing is suppose to be shipped today direct from Holley to me per Summit. I'm really tired of holding my breath. I just hope the trans hole runout is within spec or i'll have to order offset pins for the block. who knows how long those might take.

[Mastertech5]

Installed the Hooker exhaust manifolds Saturday and the outlets are in about an inch from the GM manifolds. Going to have to cut and weld the down pipes and cat. Conv. Inlet pipes to make them work. My bellhousing came this morning. Installed the back plate, flywheel and bell. I did the run out check on the trans hole and it's out of spec by .008, .003 over maximum allowed. .007 offset pins on order. I have to measure the input shaft length from trans body minus depth of bellhousing to confirm the pilot bearing they sent (larger one) is correct. Macleod wants you to install the clutch and measure to where the clutch will sit on the input shaft splines so it is correct. Voids warranty if all these measurements aren't done. FUN!

173434 173435

My dial indicator magnetic base rod is too long to fit inside the bell so it has to stick out and trying to get it to sit flat and not wiggle around took me about 15 minutes of futtsing around with it. I drew 8 lines on the bell and turned the crank to measure runout at each line like a clock. I need to move bell toward 10:30 by offset of dowels. Then I can install the transmission and get my engine angle set to drill a couple of holes in the firewall to anchor the fuel and purge lines and to see where I need to cut the exhaust for correct orientation to the floor. That bellhousing was really holding things up. Still haven't got the nuts for the front control arm bushing bolts from FFR yet.

173436

Why do companies supply 12 point bolts with their stuff? I hate 12 point bolts. I had to go buy some sockets so I could torque the flywheel bolts(ARP) and bellhousing bolts (QuickTime). They are too easy to round off. At least I have new sockets for them now.

[Mastertech5]

I got my offset dowels installed (Moroso). They don't come marked as to where the high spots are. I had to figure that out with my dial indicator. They are screw driver slotted to turn but I had to polish the ends down with crocus cloth so I could turn them in the block. They came with set screws. You have to drill and tap the block to use them. 8/32 so very small holes. So I have the bellhousing dialed in with .004 runout, .001 within max spec. Had to order a mechanical speedo block off plug (not included) as I am using the sensor for that. I had to buy some Grade 8 1/2"- 13 x 1 1/2" NC flange head bolts to mount the transmission, not quite there yet. Got those at Tractor Supply, shocked they had them. My go to hardware store didn't.
Anyone have problems with the trans mount fitting between the frame pieces it bolts to? I'm going to have to bend the ears of the mount or both to fit it in between. Till next post tata!

[Mastertech5]

I got the trans installed, no clutch. Chain across the 2 holed tabs and a ratchet strap from hook to tailshaft housing to keep it level on engine hoist. Pretty much slid right in. I hope it'll be that easy when the clutch is on. Height looks good. Measured drive shaft length- 36 ". Diff flange to output shaft 36 3/4", perfect. I had to turn the trans mount around so the curved part was toward the rear to get it to line up with the frame holes. I don't really think it matters.

173644

I pulled the directions from the box and read them before I took the trans out of the box. They said I needed to order a mechanical speedo block off plug if using the digital sensor, so I did. It came today, so I went to put it in and you guessed it there was one there already. Back it goes. I never even opened the shipping box.

It says there is an o-ring on the output shaft to keep things in or out while shipping and not necessary to remove and you could damage the seal or bushing if you do. Anyone with any experience with this have advise or suggestions? That foam looking thing sticking out past the dust shield.

173645 173643

[Mastertech5]

Thanks to all that advised on removal of the donut on the TKX output shaft.

Attention all waiting for the 16 mm nuts for your front suspension: unless you already got them mine are coming tomorrow, yea! Hopefully yours will be arriving soon.

I put the engine harness on today to see how it would layout. I'll be able to put the fuse box and computer inside t he cockpit. The cam sensor won't plug in because it has a 5 pin connector and the sensor connector is 3 pin. There are only 3 wires in the 5 pin connector. 5 wires is for a VVT engine. It mentions a jumper harness and part number but gives you the impression it's included. There is a short harness from the sensor itself routed behind a shield near the crankshaft. The MAP sensor connector won't plug in either, both 3 pin but different styles. The fun never ends. Overcoming this kind of stuff is all part of the custom car build process I guess. Called the LS shop I posted about earlier and spoke to them. He has connectors and different MAP sensors I can check out. Going tomorrow MAP in hand with pictures of the connectors in question.

[33fromSD]

Thanks to all that advised on removal of the donut on the TKX output shaft.

Attention all waiting for the 16 mm nuts for your front suspension: unless you already got them mine are coming tomorrow, yea! Hopefully yours will be arriving soon.

I put the engine harness on today to see how it would layout. I'll be able to put the fuse box and computer inside t he cockpit. The cam sensor won't plug in because it has a 5 pin connector and the sensor connector is 3 pin. There are only 3 wires in the 5 pin connector. 5 wires is for a VVT engine. It mentions a jumper harness and part number but gives you the impression it's included. There is a short harness from the sensor itself routed behind a shield near the crankshaft. The MAP sensor connector won't plug in either, both 3 pin but different styles. The fun never ends. Overcoming this kind of stuff is all part of the custom car build process I guess. Called the LS shop I posted about earlier and spoke to them. He has connectors and different MAP sensors I can check out. Going tomorrow MAP in hand with pictures of the connectors in question.

Glad your hardware is finally coming for the front suspension so you can move forward.

I have to admit though, if it were me (in a lot of cases it was since I built mine during the pandemic so stuff from FFR was hit or miss), I would not let nuisance parts like bolts, washers, lock washers, nuts, screws, etc. or even things like brackets impede my forward momentum on the build. I get that the majority of the folk's view point is they paid good money for the 33 HR kit(s) so they want to use the parts FFR supplies, but to me time is $$, so if I'm waiting months on simple hardware while my build is collecting dust where I can source online or locally and immediately continue, I'm going to spend the few dollars to source it myself.

That's just me, I like to control the situation / build so even if that means ending up with a bag full of hardware after the fact (which I'll use on other vehical restorations I do) I'd rather go that route than be waiting on hardware that is preventing me from making progress.

I've actually had brackets from FFR (The door striker brackets) that after 3 times back & forth of tweaking and still getting the wrong ones I finally just had my own made locally since I could bring in a card board template of what I needed and physically stand in the machine shop with the operator to make the exact brackets I needed and know they would be right the first time. Again, that's a freaky "I have to be in control thing" I have, but for the $30 the 1/4" thick steel L & R brackets cost me to make, I walked away with correct brackets in 2 hours total time locally that took a couple of months of back and forth describing to my assigned FFR tech why the bracket does not fit & the trial and error of tweaks to the brackets FFR made & reshipped that never resulted in a part that fit.

Your build is coming along great, enjoy it.

Jim

[Mastertech5]

I got a MAP sensor connector from Eric at the LS shop. Spliced it in with some solder shrink connectors. A ring of solder is in the middle and you feed the stripped wires in the ends then shrink middle out and the solder melts and the sheath seals everything. The pin locations are different from the connector that was on the harness. Checked continuity on each circuit back to ECM connector, all good. I went through my LS engine box of goodies and found the CAM sensor jumper harness.

173767

The nuts that came today are different. They are non-flanged nylock. They also sent 8 of those large washers that I had a question about in an earlier post. I had to cut the edges on one side on 2 of them to sit flat on the front LCAs, hit the tubing welds. All torqued except for the radiator mount ones.

173766

[Mastertech5]

I took the engine and transmission out yesterday so I could take the firewall and foot boxes out so I could polish them.
I taped up any ports open to air and put the engine away for the winter on my stand. Covered it up with the rust preventative paper and plastic it came in. Hopefully I can get the foot boxes in and the top floors installed before it gets too cold. Going to Hawaii next week's for my daughter's wedding, where she lives. Should be fun!

[33fromSD]

I took the engine and transmission out yesterday so I could take the firewall and foot boxes out so I could polish them.
I taped up any ports open to air and put the engine away for the winter on my stand. Covered it up with the rust preventative paper and plastic it came in. Hopefully I can get the foot boxes in and the top floors installed before it gets too cold. Going to Hawaii next week's for my daughter's wedding, where she lives. Should be fun!

Can't recall, did you run your engine already? If yes, did you run it with water, antifreeze or dry? If you used antifreeze then your good, if used water or dry, you may want to fill the water jackets with Antifreeze to prevent flash rusting in the water jackets while in storage.

Jim

[Mastertech5]

No, I haven't run it yet. I just set the drivetrain in to fit the alt., AC compressor and to mock up other stuff. Next time I install it it's to stay, hopefully. I just hope the grill comes with my Stage 2 order in April.

[33fromSD]

No, I haven't run it yet. I just set the drivetrain in to fit the alt., AC compressor and to mock up other stuff. Next time I install it it's to stay, hopefully. I just hope the grill comes with my Stage 2 order in April.

Okay, then you "should" be okay. Not sure about other engine builders but if this is a BluePrint engine I know they add a dye in the block (orangish in color) when doing their run test / dyno to show leaks (if any) that I believe is a rust preventor too for storage. Other builders, I'm not sure what they do.

Speaking of the dye BP uses, just a tidbit to make a mental note for those who have not ran their BP engine yet or if you have and have not checked your water yet. Do your initial run / break-in with plain water because with the dye in the block everything will turn a bright brownish-orange including new coolant. While BP says the coolant will still be fine to run it's pretty gross looking.

If you run water only you can then drain the block & radiator to remove all the gunky looking fluid. I would also suggest flushing the radiator with hot water a few times since this dye gets into everything. I think I flushed mine 3 or 4 times before I got clear water coming out.

Jim

[Mastertech5]

Brand new GM crate engine. I'm good.

[Mastertech5]

I got back from my daughter's wedding in Hawaii on Monday and took a day to recover and sleep. Gained 5 lbs. eating good food. The wedding was great and all went well.
Today I mounted my polished foot boxes. They look great.

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Tonight I installed the power steering. Turns nice and smooth.

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Tomorrow I plan on polishing the firewall and installing it. Then doing the foam and upper floor panels if time allows. I drilled the inner firewall panel I got from Mike Everson and the holes in the frame. I had to modify it to allow for the HVAC lines and Heater box mounting. Pictures to come

[Namrups]

Can't see any of your pictures.

[Mastertech5]

Can't see any of your pictures.

I uploaded them again. They were there after the first time. This has happened before, ?.

[Namrups]

I can see them now.

[Mastertech5]

I got the firewall polished. It wasn't as reflective as the foot boxes so I polished some more with finer grit paper, 6000. I think they are different alloys. It looks better now.

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Here's one of the inner firewall. The right side is trimmed for the HVAC hoses and the 2 slots cut in the middle are so I can mount the heater box. Lots of space to mount PS controller, engine harness fuse box and ECM.

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[Mastertech5]

Today I got the floors done. The lower pieces were riveted in a while ago. The foam inserts didn't fit. I had to cut off a little of each corner to fit around the frame welds and I whacked each side along their lengths with a small dead blow plastic hammer just enough to get them started. Spread the marine adhesive and banged the foam pieces in. Then I riveted..... The top panels on. I attached the foot boxes with adhesive and rivets to the floors. Done! I used 3 Bondo spreaders and threw them away rather than try to clean that goo off. Have a little adhesive left, about 3 or 4 clicks on the caulking gun.

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I think I may install the Ron Francis fuse box tomorrow. 70 deg. weather for 3 days then cold again so I'm taking advantage although I have leaves to blow, a lot of leaves!

[Mastertech5]

I got the fuse box mounted. Now to figure out where to run the harness sections. Installing the drivetrain and a few other things might help.

174528

[Mastertech5]

I had a problem with the rear of the floors and posted a question in the body and interior thread. I ended up bending the back of the floors up to meet the rear cockpit panel. Someone at FFR forgot that bend. I would have asked them for new upper floor panels but I already installed them as you can see above.

174550 174551

[BradC]

Oh that’s a bummer. Guess things like that can happen but at least it’s not one you couldn’t do yourself. Are you going to let FFR know about it?

[Mastertech5]

Oh that’s a bummer. Guess things like that can happen but at least it’s not one you couldn’t do yourself. Are you going to let FFR know about it?

I hadn't thought about it. I should though to help out future builders. It's funny though how 3 times now I've mentioned parts in my posts and they show up the next weekend. I'm pretty sure the moderator or someone at FFR checks the threads and let's someone know about problems builders are having. The build manual needs updates in certain areas too. There are Gen 1 instructions still that just don't match up with Gen 2 at all and areas that are vague as to what to do or how to attach something or what hardware to use even for an ex-professional like me. I can't imagine what some novices go through. Good thing we have this forum to fill in the gaps.

[Mastertech5]

I sent an email to FFR Tech about the missing bends on the floor panels but haven't heard anything back yet.

I put the engine back in today with the clutch installed this time after attaching the firewall. Transmission tomorrow. It's been warm enough to be able to get some work done. It's suppose to get cold again next week for good probably. We had upper 20s overnight for 2 days. Can't wait for the white stuff, Why do I live here?

174756

[Mastertech5]

I wasn't able to get the trans installed today because of some hydraulic TOB hose and orientation issues which I think are straightened out for now. See engine and trans thread.

174849

[Mastertech5]

While waiting to finalize the trans installation I decided to install the heat and insulation upper pieces to the firewall before riveting my inner firewall piece on. Doesn't the body need to sit down behind the firewall and attach against it? I would then need to trim about a 1/2" to 3 /4" of the heat and insulation panels down from the top of the firewall.

174917

Comments welcome.

[RoadRacer]

Doesn't the body need to sit down behind the firewall and attach against it? I would then need to trim about a 1/2" to 3 /4" of the heat and insulation panels down from the top of the firewall.


Yep! That's correct.

[Mastertech5]

I trimmed the sound/insulation back at the firewall 5/8". The body should fit now, when I get it.

I spent the last couple of days working on the wiring and locating the ECM, PS controller, and engine controls fuse block. I made a bracket out of 1x1 aluminum angle stock for the fuse block. I Made a piece to screw it to that is riveted to the inner firewall and ran the harness through the A.C. bracket.

175045 175046 175047 175048 175049

I extended the PS harnesses from the motor and mounted the controller as in the first picture above.
I decided to mount the ECM ON the bottom side of the heater box bracket. To drill holes in stainless your drill bits have to be sharp and it helps a lot to start small and step up 3-4 times to the size needed.

175050 175051

I ordered a 4AN 90deg. Elbow to put on the TOB bleeder fitting so the hose would not have such a sharp bend to get to the hole in the bellhousing. I got the transmission in but it took me about 1/2 hour of wiggling. I had to hold the TOB IN PLACE in the bellhousing until the input shaft was in bell enough to slip it on and then push the trans in while pushing the TOB on.

175052

[Mastertech5]

Question about coolant fan wiring with my set up in electrical thread. Opinions welcome.

[Mastertech5]

Now that I have the cooling fan wiring straightened out I decided to work on getting the ECM wiring to inside. This is what I came up with.

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I used hole saws to cut holes to pass the harnesses through and then cut 2 slots down each hole. I made a template and fashioned an aluminum plate to hold it all together with the rivets. Sealed the slots from the back side. The plate is polished but didn't show up well in the photo. When I fit the body I'll just drill little dimples in the body at the rivets so it will sit flat against the firewall. There is room to install 1/4-20 button head bolts at 3" intervals on the plate to hold the body down. Inspired by edwardb. I will anchor the harnesses to the firewall to keep them from moving around and out of the way of that one AC line. If I need to get them out I can drill out 3 rivets and remove the plate with the 2 slotted pieces attached.

[Brave Salmon]

you know they make countersunk rivets?

[Mastertech5]

you know they make countersunk rivets?

Yes, but the plate I made is only 1 /16" thick so to countersink the holes would weaken it and I'm more about functionality than show.

[narly1]

Bruce,

The horse is already out of the barn so to speak, but these are also a solution:

https://sealsit.com/

Earl

[Mastertech5]

Bruce,

The horse is already out of the barn so to speak, but these are also a solution:

https://sealsit.com/

Earl

I would still have to cut slots because the fuse box and ECM connectors are on the ends of those harnesses. Nice thought though and maybe an option later on. Thanks for the info. I didn't realize there were split grommets available. That's why this forum is so great. If you don't know something exists you can't use it.

[narly1]

I would still have to cut slots because the fuse box and ECM connectors are on the ends of those harnesses.

Not necessarily. If one uses a big enough piece the split rubber grommet part fills the "difference" between the size of the hole needed to pass the connector and the diameter of the wire.

Earl

[Mastertech5]

Not necessarily. If one uses a big enough piece the split rubber grommet part fills the "difference" between the size of the hole needed to pass the connector and the diameter of the wire.

Earl

That may be true in some cases but a 5x6x5 inch fuse box wouldn't work in this case. Good to know though.

[Mastertech5]

Last night I did some electrical work on my A.C. Wiring. I bought a connector package earlier in anticipation of this. I don't like any exterior connections to not be weatherproof. It just causes problems down the road from corrosion. I crimped terminals and added these connectors for the trinary switch, hot water control valve and compressor wire connections

175278 175279 175280

Now I have to sort through this mess.175281

That's just the main harness without the other ones that connect to it.

[Nigel Allen]

Eating an elephant one bite at a time.

[Mastertech5]

Eating an elephant one bite at a time.

Are you the one I met at FFR on June 10,2022 when I picked up my kit? He said he was the head of Australia's FFR's chapter or ?. I'm bad at remembering names.

[Nigel Allen]

Sadly no. It is a bucket list wish to get to the states one day. This would need to include an FFR open house or London Cobra show or both!

[Mastertech5]

Tuesday I ran the rear harness and secured it to the frame in the rear and trimmed the fuel system wires to length. Connected the external inline fuel pump. I need to get a grommet for the fuel level sensor harness to run it up in the front of the tank. Then I roughly ran the front harness to where it's suppose to go. I need to get a hold down clip that I can bolt to the block to keep the harness away from the exhaust manifold. I found some heat insulating harness cover you can wrap around the harness and fastens to itself with hook and loop. Add a couple of zip ties to make sure it stays. I need to get a battery too.

[Mastertech5]

I got my battery and I was thinking, there is no battery tray to keep any junk from the battery from getting into the trunk. It's a 51R like FFR recommends and I remembered that Honda's use that battery. They have a flat, low tray with 2 locating dimples on the bottom PN 32521-SR3-000, just in case anyone wants to go that route. It's just the right size, so it's on order, fits some 2000 - 2008 models. I figure the hold downs should just clear the sides. Drill 2 holes for the dimples to fit into and maybe run a drain hose TBD.
I finished the fuel level connection.

175865

I fashioned this strap to keep the front harness away from the exhaust. Now I'm waiting for the heat wrap I ordered.

175866

I attached the engine ground strap on the passenger side. I have some battery cable on order, 4 and 8 gauge, and cable lug ends with shrink tubes (kit), a 3/8 bulkhead pass through, a crimper and an insulated cable clamp kit.
I plan on running the pos. battery cable to the starter and a 4 ga. cable from there to the bulkhead pass through. I will pull the blue solenoid wire out of the harness and just run that to the starter solenoid. All the other power wires will get connected to the other end of the pass through inside the car. I have covers coming for the pass through to prevent shorts. I need to make a power cable to power the engine harness fuse box. It requires a minimum 8 ga. cable to put on the engine fuse box for power. The ECM runs the fuel pump so the fuel pump fuse and relay are out of the R.F. fuse box after connecting that wire to the R.F. harness fuel pump wire. I still have to connect the ECM fan control wire and AC fan wire to the blue and green fan relay wires respectively. Ran out of yellow butt connectors.

175869

Till next time, build on!

[Mastertech5]

I connected the coolant fan wire and now need to splice into the green fan control wire for the A.C. to turn the fan on upon compressor engagement. I had to turn my ECM 180 deg. for the connectors to engage properly. Have been trying to locate a pink wire in the GM harness to power up key on and cranking per the GM instructions. It's not sticking out of the harness like the fuel pump and fan wires. I'll keep looking.

[JimLev]

Just in case you missed my answer…post 495 here. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26821-JimLev-s-Build/page13

I tried to trace the pink wire back but I have it wrapped up in cloth tape. The bundle gets buried with all the other wiring next to the RF and GM fuse boxes that I have mounted on the firewall frame.

[Mastertech5]

That's ok. I think the pink wire in that bulkhead connector will work.
edwardb's truck is also using a LS3 so Il'll try to get his opinion too. Much Thanks for your help!

[edwardb]

That's ok. I think the pink wire in that bulkhead connector will work.
edwardb's truck is also using a LS3 so Il'll try to get his opinion too. Much Thanks for your help!

I looked through my notes, pictures, wiring spreadsheets, etc. Didn't find the answer specifically. Can't look at the truck itself. It's at the painter. I should have the truck cab/chassis back in the next couple weeks and could probably trace it better. Although everything's pretty buried right now. But I don't recall the Pink Interior Harness - Ignition Switch wire in the harness was difficult to find. I vaguely recall it was around the fan and fuel pump wires. But don't quote me on that. Sorry I can't be more specific. Per my LS3 instructions, it's attached to a chassis ignition +12V power source. I used the RF choke wire. Required to enable proper power-up sequence of the ECM.

But one thing I can tell you 100% is it's not the pink wire in the bulkhead connector. Per my instructions: "15A Fused 12V Ignition Power (PINK) – This is a power output supply and is enabled only when the ignition is on." The fuse was in position 6 in my LS3 fuse panel. I'm using it to power my HGM transmission controller and it works as advertised. As a power source. Not the input wire you're asking about. Put a VOM on that wire with the LS fuse panel powered up and you should be able to confirm there's +12V on the pin.

[Mastertech5]

Ok. Thanks! I'll figure it out eventually. Maybe I'll try to contact Chevy performance tech support although I haven't been able to find out how yet.
If anyone out there has knowledge of this connection I would be forever gratefull. 12V Ignition on/start wire of the FFR harness to pink wire in the GM LS3 harness. I have been unable to locate the connection for this. It powers the coils and injectors among other things.

176083

Nevermind, I found it hanging out of the accelerator pedal harness. Thanks for putting up with my panic JimLev and edwardb.

[Mastertech5]

Last night after finding my mystery wire I installed the bulkhead pass through. I cut the three power feed wires to length, put the cable ends on and installed on the stud. Still waiting for the battery cables I ordered. I did it this way because the battery cable post on the starter solenoid is toward the engine and there's no room to have all those cables on it.u
176157 176158

I decided to test the power steering to make sure my harness extensions are good. Attached to the battery held the white wire on the pos. post and turned the column shaft by hand (no steering wheel yet). It worked. Turned easy. At least I have one system verified working.

[edwardb]

...It powers the coils and injectors among other things.

I found it hanging out of the accelerator pedal harness...

Glad you found it. Mine may have been in the same place. Just didn't remember. Not to beat a dead horse (maybe too late) that little wire is just a signal. +12V on the wire when the ignition switch is turned on tells the system to wake up and stay awake. Turn the key off, the system shuts down. Coils, injectors, etc. are all on different circuits out of the LS fuse panel. There's a map in the lid of the panel showing the circuit descriptions and fuse locations.

[Mastertech5]

Yes I realized that after. All the injectors and coils do have pink wires to them although different circuits. My memory kicked in from my dealership days. Thanks for your support.

[BradC]

Are you thinking you might be able to fire it up soon now? Seems like you've made more progress than you thought the winter weather would allow. I did the same over the weekend getting the electric power steering going. First thing 'alive' on the car is always a milestone!

[Mastertech5]

There is no way I'll be able to CRANK IT UP before spring. I'd like to but I'd rather not let the fuel system sit all winter with gas in it and I'd have to push it outside(no exaust). My dog would have a s__t fit. He shakes during thunder storms and fireworks. Maybe I'm further along than I thought, just doing the work to get it done and wasn't thinking about the ah ha moment of IT RUNS, YEAH!

[BradC]

Yeah, makes sense.

[Mastertech5]

Yeah, makes sense.

I would love to though!

[33fromSD]

There is no way I'll be able to CRANK IT UP before spring. I'd like to but I'd rather not let the fuel system sit all winter with gas in it and I'd have to push it outside(no exaust). My dog would have a s__t fit. He shakes during thunder storms and fireworks. Maybe I'm further along than I thought, just doing the work to get it done and wasn't thinking about the ah ha moment of IT RUNS, YEAH!

In the words of Adam Sandler's sidekick Rob Schneider "YOU CAN DO IT!!"

Seriously, just do it, all of the above reasons are easy to dealt with

1) Gas - Use 91 or higher, add stabil to it and it will be fine for a year (even longer). I store cars all the time, never had an issue
2) These cars are super light, it would take one extra person (older kid, friend, neighbor, wide, etc.) to help push it out and push it back in
3) Takes less than a minute or so to start it and let it run before shutting it off. During that time have someone take your dog for a ride in another vehicle so he doesn't hear it.

Hearing it run for the 1st time is one of the many great moments / milestones of these builds and it's a feeling of accomplishment that is unexplainable until you do it. If you don't, you'll drive yourself nuts over winter wondering "will it start", "will it run good if it does start", "will there be any leaks, will there be any issues", "how will it sound", "I wish I would have ........" etc., etc., etc.. Not to sound dramatic but it will haunt you in a sense.

It's a fairly simple task to do, plus you will also potentially talk yourself out of moving onto other steps because you'll wonder "if I haven't started it and I start installing other stuff will I have to remove some stuff if there are issues".

"YOU CAN DO IT!!"

Good luck with your decision.

Jim

https://media.tenor.com/NII7Z9YQLsMAAAAC/go-for-it-you-can-do-it.gif

[Mastertech5]

I'm at least a week away from being able to start it anyway, still have electrical connections to do among other things. I don't have any gauges to check oil pressure either. I had a oil pressure test kit for trans. and engines but I sold it a few years back.

[Mastertech5]

Today I combined the AC harness, sending unit harness and the starter solenoid blue wire together into a 3/4 conduit to run all through the tunnel (when I get it) with the grommet from the sending unit harness and then split them again in the engine compartment. I also added a ground to the compressor because the brackets are powder coated and wouldn't ground well. The Honda battery tray and battery cables I ordered have shipped so I should get them soon then I'll be able to get the B+ circuit done. I spend about an hour in the garage then go upstairs and warm up.
176222 176223
Brought a pallets worth of wood pellets in this morning, 2 last week and the last pallet tomorrow one bag at a time. 4.8 tons total.
176221

[33fromSD]

That's a lot of pellets. Is your home furnace heated with pellets? I have a pellet stove in my work shop, I love it, I can heat the whole 25'x60' shop up to 70 degrees in a couple hours. I only run mine on weekends when I am there so I don't use a ton of pellets, other wise I keep the shop around 56 degree with the propane forced air furnace I have.

I usually buy a pallet every 2-3 years so I understand storing those.

Jim

[Mastertech5]

That's a lot of pellets. Is your home furnace heated with pellets? I have a pellet stove in my work shop, I love it, I can heat the whole 25'x60' shop up to 70 degrees in a couple hours. I only run mine on weekends when I am there so I don't use a ton of pellets, other wise I keep the shop around 56 degree with the propane forced air furnace I have.

I usually buy a pallet every 2-3 years so I understand storing those.

Jim

I have an insert in my fireplace and a smaller one in my finished downstairs (split-entry raised ranch). The main heat is baseboard forced hot water oil fired boiler. Oil is about $5 a gallon and I used to use about 4 tank fulls a year in a 235 gallon tank. That's about $1000 each 200 gallon fill. $2000 for pellets. Do the math and I get a workout too. Just have to clean the stoves once a week.

[Mastertech5]

Over the weekend I made another bracket to hold the main harness up and out of the way. Most of the connectors for the other parts are now in a good position to go through the tunnel. I connected the headlight switch and wired up the ignition switch. We baby sat my 8 and 5 year old grandkids Sat. night.
176318
I got my battery tray yesterday, measured and drilled the two 13/32" holes needed for it to sit flat and locate the tray.
Did the rest per the manual.
176319
The cables and lug ends I ordered will be here tomorrow so I can finish up the power B+ circuits. I think I'll install the horns today next.

[Mastertech5]

I installed the horns last night. The manual shows 2 locations. The side frame rail picture is a Gen 1 with the mount brackets for the front of the body, which Gen 2 doesn't have. I didn't want to drill a hole through the frame and the provided bolt was too short so I mounted them in the front location. The wires are not long enough to reach there so had to add more.
176341

I ran the battery cable to the starter, guess what?, Too short by a couple inches! I had to relocate where it went through the truck floor too compensate. That's 3 times now that the wiring has been too short. It's barely long enough. It should be a couple of inches too long to compensate for various engine senarios. You could take up any slack in how you routed the cable and anchor points. If the starter was on the driver's side it wouldn't work at all.
176343 176344
I'm using the cable release for the trunk so I can use that delete cover to cover the hole.

[RoadRacer]

I installed the horns last night. The manual shows 2 locations. The side frame rail picture is a Gen 1 with the mount brackets for the front of the body, which Gen 2 doesn't have. I didn't want to drill a hole through the frame and the provided bolt was too short so I mounted them in the front location. The wires are not long enough to reach there so had to add more.
176341


I can't make out the photo, but I'd originally put my horns not quite pointing down enough, and water got in and just sat there.. eventually turning the horns into squeaky toys. Just plan that water is coming in sideways as well as upwards, so make sure it'll just fall back out. Point them properly downwards.

[Mastertech5]

I can't make out the photo, but I'd originally put my horns not quite pointing down enough, and water got in and just sat there.. eventually turning the horns into squeaky toys. Just plan that water is coming in sideways as well as upwards, so make sure it'll just fall back out. Point them properly downwards.

They are mostly pointed down. They only fit there in specific positions though.

[Mastertech5]

I received the cables and lugs today. I put them on the appropriate studs, marked the cables and cut. Installed the lugs, added adhesive shrink tubing and temporarily installed them. I also secured the battery cable along the floor and transmission to the starter and also the rear harness on the other side. Waiting to order the heat protection tubing until after my birthday on Saturday, expecting an Amazon gift card.
176403 176404 176405 176406

[33fromSD]

Looks good!!

Happy early birthday!!

One tip / suggestion. I've had those crimped battery cable lugs come off in the past so after I crimp them (before heat shrinking) I also solder them too (using a MAP torch), then heat shrink.

Also guarantees no corrosion affecting connection issues in the future (especially on the gnd wire). Cheap insurance

Jim

[Just 1 More]

176414

[Mastertech5]

I fitted the DBW gas pedal/sensor today. Details can be found on the engine thread. What a chore figuring that out but I'm happy with the results. Thanks to all who inspired me!
176443
Now I have to remount my fuse box and PS controller.

[Mastertech5]

I got my fuse box and PS controller in their new homes and neatened up the wiring a little.I
176489 176490
I finished wiring the horns. I used a pre-wired 2 way connector to extend the wires from the harness and added 2 short pieces for each one to add the extra connectors as per the manual.
176498 176499

Has anyone with an LS3 and the platinum gauges tried using the oil pressure output of the GM harness bulkhead connector? It would save a lot of BS instead of getting adaptors and such or using the plate by the oil filter. Did you LS guys hook up your alternator to the GM harness or the RF harness. My alternator doesn't require any other connections other than the charge cable, it's self energizing. Just thinking ahead. No instructions for the gauges available without actually having them from what I've seen online.
Starting to run out of stuff to do until I get Stage 2. I haven't added fluid or bled the brakes or the clutch yet or hooked up the park brake cables. I still have to figure out the exhaust too. The weather hasn't turned cold for any length of time yet so we'll see what happens. It's 55 degrees out now at 11o'clock PM. Wierd.

[JimLev]

I used a one wire alternator.
For the oil pressure gauge sender I drilled and tapped a hole in the small block off plate, used an elbow and short extension for the sender.
I hooked up an oil temp gauge to the sender in the oil pan just ahead of the starter. I didn’t bother with the oil level signal part of the sender.

Your manual is newer than mine, does it have any alignment specs for the IRS LSD diff?

[Mastertech5]

I used a one wire alternator.
For the oil pressure gauge sender I drilled and tapped a hole in the small block off plate, used an elbow and short extension for the sender.
I hooked up an oil temp gauge to the sender in the oil pan just ahead of the starter. I didn’t bother with the oil level signal part of the sender.

Your manual is newer than mine, does it have any alignment specs for the IRS LSD diff?

Yes it does:
Camber -0.5 to -0.75
Total toe is 1/8" toe in or 0.28 deg. toe in
Split total toe between both sides

[Mastertech5]

Today I did a few wiring hook ups for the AC, my mystery pink ECM wake up wire, routed and plugged in the DBW gas pedal and routed the diagnostic link connector. I ran a wire from the coolant fan green wire (thermo switch) to where ever it ends up for a switch so I can turn it on whenever I want, just in case. I'm going to run the PS white switched power wire to a switch too so I can turn it off when driving at speed on the highway. Just that and a lot of staring and contemplating. I'm not going to bother with the defroster per advise from Mike Everson because I don't plan on driving when I might need it. Instead I'm going to get another duct Y and 2 more outlets that you can close the deflectors on and mount them on the sides of a console I plan on building. I want to add a USB port to charge my phone too. Adios amigos.

[Nigel Allen]

Which electric PS are you using?

[Mastertech5]

Which electric PS are you using?

The one that you can get with the kit from FFR. I don't know what brand it is.

[Mastertech5]

I'm going to remove the inertia switch. The ECM controls the fuel pump (fuse/relay) on it's own, the inertia switch grounds the RF fuel pump relay so is moot now. The instructions say to follow the harness manual for the coolant fan wiring. It mentions grounding the thermo switch green wire if using an engine ECM controlled cooling fan. That would make the fan run all the time seeing how the thermo switch grounds that circuit at 185 degrees. Doesn't make sense. My ECM controls the fan the same as the fuel pump. The AC trinary switch grounds the fan relay on that wire so why ground it, I'm not.

[peterh226]

The inertia switch is a safety item. I put mine on the Pink switched power line to the sniper. So, if there is an accident, it kills power to the sniper and all associated stuff. Easy enough for a little bit of safety.

[Mastertech5]

The inertia switch is a safety item. I put mine on the Pink switched power line to the sniper. So, if there is an accident, it kills power to the sniper and all associated stuff. Easy enough for a little bit of safety.

I was thinking about putting it on the ground for the ECM fuel pump relay. From my experience Ford is the only one that uses this item. I'm not sure if GM controls the relay by grounding it or activating it with power to it, so more investigating needed. I believe it is controlled with power so if the key is off no power to the fuel pump. If the fuel pump wire gets pinched in an accident the fuse will pop. A lot of manufacturers control the relay by grounding it, so in an accident if the ground gets compromised by getting pinched, the fuel pump continues to run. We'll see. Your solution is a possible consideration.

[Mastertech5]

Haven't done much the last few days. I've been waiting for wiring stuff from Amazon so I decided to bleed my brakes. Set up for "bench bleeding" the master cylinders. I bought a 40" long brake line and cut it in half, bent and attached them to teach the reservoir. They were a little too short so added some plastic tubing to reach the bottom of each reservoir.
176722 176723
Filled each and pushed the pedal by hand several times until no more bubbles and then a few more times. I removed the tubes, attached the brake lines and pressurized the bleeder to 15lbs. as per directions.
176724
Missed one to show the bleeder attached. The rear one first. I then bled RR, LR, swapped reservoirs and bled RF, LF.
176725
I checked for leaks at each master, unions and calipers. None found. Stepped on pedal and watched balance bar. It was biased toward the fronts but I had some pedal. Held it down with a long pry bar and tried to spin LF and LR with my foot, LR would turn. I then bled the rears again hitting each caliper with a dead blow plastic hammer, bubbles. Repeated spin check, success. Then I stepped on the pedal hard, good. Held it down hard for several seconds and rechecked for pedal fade and for leaks. No fade but found 2 very slight leaks at the rear master outlet line fitting and at the RR caliper hose connection. I tightened both and rechecked, no leaks. I have a good pedal. It travels about 2" before firm, normal for power brakes. I'm not sure if that's normal or not for pedal travel for manual brakes. I haven't dealt with them for several decades. 2 systems working, PS and brakes. Slowly but surely I'm getting there.

[Mastertech5]

I got the heat shield tubing today along with silicone terminal protectors. I installed the tubing and secured the ends with these metal tie straps that came with it, then on the block behind the strap I had made earlier. Then I installed the protector on the alternator connection.
176728 176729
The smaller heat shield tubing for the battery cables around the starter won't be here until Friday.

[Mastertech5]

The heat shield tubing for the battery cables showed up a day early so I installed it, tightened all the connections, put on the terminal covers on both sides of the bulkhead pass through and put the exhaust manifolds on. Th th that's all folks. I used to love the Warner Brothers cartoons. Don't make them like that anymore.

[Mastertech5]

I cleaned up all the stuff that was sitting on the floors, put my tools away and covered my baby with a couple of tarps to keep the dust off. It's getting too cold to do anything meaningful. Pretty much nothing to do until I get the Stage 2 kit in April. I'll be checking out you guys' builds over the winter. 4 months until the fun starts again. Build on!

[Mastertech5]

This picture is for D-Dubya
177059

[Salty Chief 35]

Cold??? Ha… it’s a brisk 70* here. Moved away from that cold stuff 30 years ago and haven’t looked back.
Respectfully,
Jeremie

[Mastertech5]

Love to, Jeremy. I've lived in N&S Cali, Del. and now Mass. Been here since '73. 2 grandkids tends to keep you around them and my wife has been here all her life.

[peterh226]

I have a heater mounted to the ceiling of the garage that plugs into my Welder 240V plug. The garage is insulated and the heater gets it up warm enough to work whenever I want. Not really good for painting, but great for all of the other stuff that needs to get done. (I'm in Michigan)

[33fromSD]

Garage Heaters are fairly cheap in comparison to everything else. I installed this Beacon/Morris 45000 BTU Natural Gas Heater about 15 years ago (think I spent $800 at that time, probably $1,500 now)and it runs like a clock (doing general maintenance of course). They offer LP conversion too if needed. Runs off a wall thermostat, so just like a normal house furnace.

It's -15F with -45F windchill and 40+ mph wind outside here in Sioux Fall, South Dakota and I'm in the garage in a tee shirt. My wife hates cold garages so she has no issues with me leaving this thing at 70F all the time. We also installed floor drains when the house was originally built which allows me to keep the vehicles clean during winter.

My neighbor installed a Fujitsu mini-split system so he also has AC in the summer time but considering it's a heat-pump type systems on the these cold days the system can't keep up so he can't work in his garage unless he uses a space heater. Mini-splits are good for about -5F for efficiency, after that they cannot keep up and spend more time in defrost mode.

Jim

177106

[JimLev]

18k btu Carrier mini-split in my garage. It’s 16F (normally not that cold) here now and without the mini-split running it’s 55F in the garage, the furnace for the house is in the garage, that gives off enough heat so the mini-split doesn’t have to do much.

[Mastertech5]

Appreciate the ideas guys but I really need the Stage 2 kit to do anything. I don't weld and getting my exhaust situation straightened out is about the only thing I could get done anyway and an intake air tube. I could do the AC lines to the compressor but I'd rather not open the compressor up until I'm ready to hook everything up.

[narly1]

+1 on a ceiling mounted heater. I have the 2KW version of one of these: https://www.stelpro.com/products/dragon-ceiling-fan-heater-dr/. Basically wires up like a baseboard heater with an external thermostat. The thermostat I bought is a double pole version which completely cuts the power to the heater when it's turned all the way down to the off position. Here in southern Ontario near Toronto it does an adequate job of heating one garage bay, so I have two of them.

The garage bays are separated by a temporary wall made out of 2 layers of 1" thick styrofoam insulation, the type with wrap on one side and foil on the other. I bought steel studs and edge banded them with that and Tuck tape to make them into panels. The panels fit into a U-shaped channel made out of 1x strapping srewed to the ceiling and scribed/wedged against the floor. The panels are then sealed to each other with more Tuck tape. Cozy enough for my needs.

Earl

[Mastertech5]

It's been about 60 degrees out the last couple of days so I decided to try to tackle my exhaust problem. The angle on the converter pipes wasn't going to work. The front main converters wouldn't clear the front floors no matter how I tried. I ended up measuring distances and angles and drew lines on cardboard to replicate the manifold and floor relationships. I made pie cuts in the pipes between the primary and secondary cats so I could straighten them out. I'll take them to the LS shop and have them welded back together. I need to move the front O2 bungs to the sides too as the sensors will hit the floor.
177440 before

177441 177442 177443 177444 after

The down pipes will mate to the cat pipes much better now, so cut to length, cut the front cat pipes and reweld.

[JimLev]

Bruce, this is how I’ve got my intake plumbed.

178219

[Mastertech5]

Looks almost the same but not quite. Thanks
I was referring to the second setup you showed after the horizontal filter pic.

[Mastertech5]

After receiving another 90 Spectre elbow and a 1ft. 4" tube I came up with this intake tube senario. The filter clears the coilover and the radiator overflow by about 3/8" on each side. I was going to place the MAF sensor at about 45 deg. on the back side of the lower long tube in the neighborhood of where the connector is in the picture. Opinions please. I was going to put it on the upper tube and just attach the filter at the end of the 90 tube but GM wants it a minimum of 10" from the throttle body in the middle of at least a 6" straight section of tube and the math didn't work out.
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I can fashion some sort of shield to keep hot radiator air from direct flow toward the filter

[JimLev]

Three 90º elbows will be slightly more flow loss than 2 elbows.

[Mastertech5]

The aluminum one shouldn't affect the flow too much, not being as abrupt and a smoother curve than the others. The engine should still have plenty of power. We'll see how it is and I can change it if I have too. I got the air shield done and painted. I made it to taper like the filter for surrounding clearance and put pull through rubber bumpers at 3 points on the end that sit against the end of the filter to keep it away so air can get behind it. I think I'll get thicker ones to hold it away a little further. No picture yet. The suspension is hanging down raising the coil overs up, so clearance should be ok when it's on the ground. Did you notice I mounted the rad overflow in the same position as yours? I only have one bracket on it. I haven't figured out how to add the other one yet.

[JimLev]

I did notice that. I used 3 threaded rods as standoffs to hold an aluminum plate that the overflow is attached too.
Not a great pic, and the intake plumbing isn't shown the way it is connected now.
I’ll see if I can get a better pic today.

178468

[Mastertech5]

Here's some pics of the air filter hot air shield I made. I'm going to have a 1x1 aluminum angle piece tig welded to the tube on the bottom drivers side and bolt it to the rack mount plate. There is a spare hole there. The bumpers are thicker than the previous set.

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Some of my pics are I little blurry. Trying to hold the flip cover open on my tablet and pushing the snap pic button is a little iffy at times. I have to because it will cover the camera lens otherwise.

[JimLev]

I’m getting dizzy, lol.
The heat shield pic looks OK.

[Mastertech5]

A few beers and I get dizzy too!

[Jeff33Ford]

A few beers and I get dizzy too!

Well it does explain the blurry pics. :D

[Mastertech5]

I've been working on getting the air intake done. I had the MAF bung welded on today as well as the fresh air port for the PCV. I need cut the long lower tube length by about an inch to bring the air filter in further.
179133

I made some brackets out of aluminum bar stock to secure the coolant overflow container. I had the outer one welded today. It links the lower container bracket to the upper one which is bolted to a 1"x3/4" bar bolted to the side of the water pump housing. All nice and solid. The inner 2 container bracket holes are bolted to standoffs on the water pump. Belt clearance is pretty good, we'll see.
179134 179135

[Mastertech5]

Been fiddling around with stuff the last couple of weeks. I finally got my air intake done. It is supported near the air cleaner by a 1x1 angle aluminum piece that is welded to the tube. I attached it to a bolt in an existing hole on the rack mounting plate. 3 washers and a sleeve that goes through a rubber bushing in the welded bracket.
179740. It's kind of buried to take a picture. It can pivot with engine torque so the bracket won't break.
I got the MAF bung welded on and the crankcase ventilation fresh air intake tube done.
179741 179742 179743
The steam vent is attached to a double sided rad hose nipple with a 90deg. nipple on it.I
179745
I installed the radiator fan shroud and fan. Need the grill to do any more with that.
179746
9-10 more weeks till I pick up my stage 2 stuff. Can't wait!
I finally got my exhaust down pipes welded to the Cats. Had to add a little piece of pipe on each one cut at an angle to get the needed clearance from the floor and O2 sensors. It only took 3 trials to get them right.
179747 179748
The down pipes are 2 1/4 and the manifold outlets are 2 1/2. I'm going to "port match" the downpipe flanges so the exhaust flow is better. So I'm picky. It's the performance enthusiast in me.

[progmgr1]

I don't know what is "correct", but I sandwiched the fan between the radiator and the shroud. There was a 1/8" gap around the edges that I sealed with high temp aluminum tape. Also had to cut a small mousehole for the fan wires to exit. This approach gave some extra clearance between the fan and the coil springs, etc.

Keith HR #894

[Mastertech5]

How did you mount it without cutting the hole bigger, otherwise it will run backwards if you mount it flat on the other side?

[progmgr1]

Sorry, I don't understand your question. I mounted the fan in the conventional orientation...

For some reason the Forum won't let me upload a photo today!:mad::mad::mad:

Keith HR #894

[Just 1 More]

I don't know what is "correct", but I sandwiched the fan between the radiator and the shroud. There was a 1/8" gap around the edges that I sealed with high temp aluminum tape. Also had to cut a small mousehole for the fan wires to exit. This approach gave some extra clearance between the fan and the coil springs, etc.

Keith HR #894

I think i'm understanding what you did and I looked at doing the same with mine. I'd love to see pics of what you did to confirm my thoughts.

[Mastertech5]

Me too!

[progmgr1]

Sorry, I still can't upload a photo today. I asked David Hodgkins for help but haven't heard back yet.

Keith HR #894

[progmgr1]

Mr. Hodgkins laid some knowledge on me about posting photos (things I had forgotten - old age sucks!) and I'm sharing it here so others don't go through the same frustration:

Size limit is 2 MB (not recommended to go that big)
Pixel size limit (total) is 2000x2000. Rotation issues arise when Horizontal is significantly above 2000 pixels
Gallery albums have a size limit, I believe it's either 500 or 1000 pics per album.

Now to answer popular demand, here is a photo of my fan shroud installation. I used 3/16" rivets through the radiator tab, washer, shroud wall and aluminum fan support bracket. Others have used rivnuts installed in the fan bracket.

Keith HR #894

[TxMike64]

... Now to answer popular demand, here is a photo of my fan shroud installation. I used 3/16" rivets through the radiator tab, washer, shroud wall and aluminum fan support bracket. Others have used rivnuts installed in the fan bracket.

Keith HR #894

I like this method of installation, but I seem to remember a forum member installed the way you've shown (inside the shroud), and had cooling issues. Something about blocking-off air flow to areas outside the frame of the fan due to the fan being too close to the rad. Essentially only allowing airflow within the diameter of the fan. Hopefully I'm remembering this correctly - or maybe it's just a concern I have doing the install this way. Also, I'm sure how "hot" your motor is makes a big difference.

[Mastertech5]

Still not clear to me. Did you mount the fan to the FFR brackets and then cover the assembly with the shroud? That's how I understand your install text.

[progmgr1]

Yes, you are correct. The fan is mounted to the FFR brackets just like the manual shows. The shroud fits over the brackets and inside the radiator tabs with a gap that I filled with washers.

I'm not on the road yet, so I can't say if this method works or not. However, it's easy enough to drill out the rivets and move the fan out if it proves necessary.

Keith HR #894

[Mastertech5]

Yes, you are correct. The fan is mounted to the FFR brackets just like the manual shows. The shroud fits over the brackets and inside the radiator tabs with a gap that I filled with washers.

I'm not on the road yet, so I can't say if this method works or not. However, it's easy enough to drill out the rivets and move the fan out if it proves necessary.

Keith HR #894

Ahh. I see!

[Mastertech5]

Lately I've been trying to set up my lower rad hose routing. The way I have the coolant overflow mounted I had to center my adjustable thermostat housing between that and the frame tube. The FFR adaptors for the corrugated coolant pipe is too fat to fit in between. I found a 1 1/2" gates molded hose with a about a 70-80 degree bend in it to get by the overflow bottle and be at a good angle to connect the corrugated adapter to it. I just had to cut both ends to get it how I wanted it.
I've also been trying to route the AC hoses and figure out the end fittings at the compressor. None of the 134a service fittings that came with the kit will work. I ordered 45 degree service fitting ends but they won't work either because I wouldn't be able to connect the gauge set fittings, not enough room either. I finally decided I could use a regular 45 degree for the low side at the compressor pointing up and I ordered a 135 degree high side service fitting hose end for the other one pointing down. Clearance for the gauge set connection is good. I am putting the low side service fitting hose end at the firewall. I now have lots of AC hose ends and a thinner wallet. FFR sends a 135 degree low side service fitting hose end with the kit for the compressor, why not a high side one? It's for a Coyote which they seem to cater to, that's why.
180936 180937 180938

[JimLev]

[QUOTE=Mastertech5;515167]Here's some pics of the air filter hot air shield I made. I'm going to have a 1x1 aluminum angle piece tig welded to the tube on the bottom drivers side and bolt it to the rack mount plate. There is a spare hole there. The bumpers are thicker than the previous set.

178482 178483 178484



I used your heat shield idea for my air filter, this should keep most of the radiator heat from getting sucked it. Hopefully cooler air will get pulled in thru the opening where the suspension arms go thru the engine side cover.

181273

181274

181275

[Mastertech5]

That'll work. Nice job!

[Mastertech5]

It's been a little while since I've posted any build progress. There hasn't been much. I finally got my A.C. lines at the compressor worked out, crimped on the hose fittings and put the high-low side blocking plate back on the compressor. Sorry, no pictures. Now I need the grill to mount the radiator so I can finish those up.
I ran the hydraulic line for my clutch from the master to the top left of the footbox. A adapter fitting through the footbox similar to a brake line one but 4AN to standard brake line. Attached the braided line there on the firewall side. I need to anchor it to the firewall in a couple places.
181938 181939
About a month to go before I can pick up the Stage 2 kit. A couple weeks of work and go-cart time I hope!
I need to buy another brake fluid reservoir for the clutch. The one I have is no good because whoever designed it put the male threads on the cap and there's no diaphragm in the cap, just an o-ring with the usual hole in the cap. I can see the brake fluid sucking up any water in the air, seeing its hygroscopic, and ruining the whole clutch hydraulic system.

[Mastertech5]

I got my pre build date phone call from FFR yesterday to verify my Stage 2 order. I'm getting excited about resuming some serious work on the car instead of little things here and there in my cold garage. Yeah! 4/22/23.

[Mastertech5]

I got my new clutch fluid reservoir and installed it. Mounted in the same holes luckily. Ran a pipe back into it and "bench" bled it. I kept getting little bubbles after the big ones stopped. Tightened the tube nut at the master but still happened. Then I noticed a drip on the floor under the pedal. The tubing connection at the master was leaking ever so slightly. I took it apart and inspected the flare and the 90 degree fitting. There is what looks like a indented line across the seat of the fitting. I couldn't find one like that anywhere around here without them ordering it for like $9 plus shipping. Amazon Prime has it for $6. I'll have to wait a couple days.
I installed the driveshaft and got my pinion angle close for now. It was obviously pointed down too far. I have adjustable upper control arms and used the Tremec app on my phone.
2 weeks to go until Stage 2 pick up!

[Mastertech5]

I got my clutch straightened out and bled finally. No more leaks! I put the trans in gear and pushed the pedal down and was able to turn the driveshaft so that works. I filled the trans and diff with the appropriate fluids. I've been putting off connecting the park brake cables because of how to route them. I don't have any exhaust yet after the cats so I wasn't sure where it would go. I figured that out so park brake cables are now routed, adjusted and working.
Moved what's left (24 bags) of my wood pellets to make room for boxes of parts.

[Mastertech5]

Friday is the day I go pick up the rest of my Hot Rod. I hope the POL list is very short. 3 point seat belts will be there too, I just have to pay for them. Wish me luck. I'll try to take some pics.

[Mastertech5]

The rest of my baby is home. Now inventory again. POL ONLY HAD 3 items on it, WOW!
Here's a few pics that I took and a couple that Nicole of FFR took and sent them to me.
183701 183702 183703 183704
The ones Nicole took won't upload?

[BradC]

Congrats!! Three backordered isn't bad at all.

[Mastertech5]

Congrats!! Three backordered isn't bad at all.
A couple of missing things for the exhaust,16 nuts, and 4 mounts. Not sure what they're suppose to be. I got 4 hangers but no rods that go through them. 3 more boxes to go through, 2-3 pages each.
PM sent.

[TxMike64]

The ones Nicole took won't upload?
The resolution may be too high. Try resizing them smaller, then uploading.

[Mastertech5]

The resolution may be too high. Try resizing them smaller, then uploading.

Yes that's it. I had checked and they are way large datawise.
Here are a couple of the showroom I forgot to post.
183864 183865
She is going to post them on social media she said along with some she took of some else that picked up a kit that day.

[Mastertech5]

Here's the result of spending two days off and on trying to figure out how the grill, radiator and condenser get put together with changed parts that weren't documented in the AC/Heater intructions. That's why this Forum is so great, because someone will give you guidance when it's needed. Thanks Iziks.
183930 183931
I got the steering wheel installed in between swearing about the condenser. I misplaced the horn wire that attaches to the horn button. Standard GM part that the column is designed after, Amazon to the rescue, will be near today.
183932
Now on to the tunnel. I'm going to have to move my accelerator left to clear the tunnel side. I may have to modify the tunnel next to the pedal to make more room. More problems to solve. We all have to do some of our own engineering to get these cars built the way we want.

[BradC]

If you end up needing/wanting a spare tunnel let me know..

[Mastertech5]

Will do. You have a dust collector.

[Mastertech5]

Got 2 of the 3 items on my POL this morning. Carriage bolts for the door frames and the shifter boot. All that's left is the flocking adhesive for the headliner. Still waiting for three MIK items, trunk prop rod, 24 nuts and 4 mounts for the exhaust.

[Mastertech5]

Today I worked on moving the drive by wire accelerator pedal to the left. Got that done in about 3 hours. Then I got the tunnel trimmed and cut out for the park brake and the shifter. I was able to squeeze it together by about an inch and a half. Tomorrow on to the center piece and cutting slots and holes for the harness grommets.
184010 184011
Grommet holes done.
184649

[Mastertech5]

I took the radiator/grill assembly off today and cut the top ends of the front lower LCA mount cross bar just above the upper holes, The Mike Everson fan shroud hit it and
didn't allow much grill tilt adjustment. I'm using the lower holes for the suspension so I could do that. I Primered and painted the cuts. Now I can straighten the grill a little more upright on the mount arms so that the slots showing on the sides are more equal now. I used a couple of paint sticks between the fan shroud and the LCA cross bar as temporary spacers for adjustment purposes.
184108 184109

[Mastertech5]

I ordered the LS gauge install kit from AutoMeter through Amazon and got the coolant temp and oil pressure sensors installed. I had to get a 2 1/2 inch 1/8" NPT nipple and double ended connector to get it to clear the intake. The manifold must be longer than some of the other LS models. The oil pressure sensor is kind of fat. I Ran the sensor wires and one ground to the back of the intake using an unused bolt hole for the RR coolant air bleed.
184650 184651

I laid out the door cut templates for each end and made the cuts and drilled the holes. I had to clean up the area on the doors where the inner and outer sections are bonded because it was very sloppy and the bonding agent wouldn't let the hinge cut template get to where it was suppose to be. Big blobs!

[Mastertech5]

I've been working on the exhaust. The Cats had about 18" of outlet pipe that had bends in them for a Camaro that weren't going to work so I cut them off leaving about an inch. They are 2 1/2" and the FFR chrome pipes are 2 1/4". I cut the matching ball ends to the mufflers off of the FFR front pipes, that I wasn't using anyway. They had bends in those right after so I cut 2 longer straight pieces out of one of the front pipes. I couldn't find any 2 1/2" ID to 2 1/8 OD adaptors so I spent about an hour slowly tapping the Cat pipes ends down to match the FFR pipe size. Now off to have them TIG welded.
184877

[Mastertech5]

After getting both sides welded I bolted them up to the manifolds and put on the mufflers, the driver's side anyway. The passenger side muffler was too far toward the center to clear the park brake cables bracket. From the 2 down pipes I had and the front pipes that would have been where my Cats are I was able to cut and use the curved pieces to make up on offset pipe to move the RT muffler to a usable position. Then I used the side exit exhaust pipes and other curved pieces to go from the mufflers toward the back, up and over the lower frame crossbar. I added hangers where I could.
184901 184902 184903

I got all the gauges on a board and wired except the speedo.
184904

Just fuel and engine oil and ready for first start. I have to check for fuel leaks before starting. Back soon with a video I hope!
Alternate plans for the weekend. I have to replace my rear AC evaporator and thermal expansion valve in my Acadia. It's leaking refrigerant. I didn't want rear HEAT and AC because I knew it would leak at some point, but they all have it. I have to R&R the 3rd row seat and the RR inner panel, RR wheel well liner and the rear heater box for access. Lots of fun. I noticed an oily stain on the RR mud flap and I knew I was in for the dreaded project.

[JimLev]

Pics no work…..
Let me know how much oil you put into your LS3. IIRC the paperwork that came with mine said 5.5 quarts however it took almost 8 qts to bring it up to the full mark on the dipstick.

[Mastertech5]

8 is too much unless it has a remote oil cooler. The most we ever put in an LS in any vehicle including trucks at work was 6 Qts. My oil pan is a little smaller than yours. I'm planning on 5-6. My documentation doesn't tell you how much. It says to fill with Mobil 1 5W-30 to the full mark. Are you using the stock dipstick and tube or an aftermarket one that you have to mark yourself?

Fixed pics and added note about having to wait on the start. The pics on my last 3 posts have all done that-?.

[JimLev]

I’m using the dipstick tube and dipstick that came with the engine.
I’m pretty sure the dipstick has a p/n on it, 12634547. The part that sticks into the tube is 27.75” long.
I don’t have a remote oil cooler.

Why would your LS3 have a smaller oil pan than my LS3?

[Mastertech5]

I’m using the dipstick tube and dipstick that came with the engine.
I’m pretty sure the dipstick has a p/n on it, 12634547. The part that sticks into the tube is 27.75” long.
I don’t have a remote oil cooler.

Why would your LS3 have a smaller oil pan than my LS3?

I was going by the pictures from your build thread when we were talking about the power steering set up you have. Mine is the E-Rod engine and yours isnt. The PN on my dipstick is 12551581. That is different, I wonder why. The tubes should be the same I would think. I couldn't find a PN for that. The dipstick is 27 3/8" from the very bottom of the yellow plastic handle and 24 1/2" to the full mark, but the tube length makes a difference as to where the dipstick stops in the oil.

[JimLev]

Isn’t the only difference you have CAT’s and I don’t?
Not sure why your oil pan would be different? The p/n is on the bottom of mine is 12640748.
My full mark is 25” from the bottom of the yellow plastic handle.
I took some measurements (not to scale), they should be +/- 1/4”.

184916

[Mastertech5]

My oil pan PN is 12552899. The sump area is 5 1/2 inches deep from the block and extends out toward the front 11 1/2" from the bellhousing plate before the tapered part to the front of the block. My dipstick is approximately 28" long block to the top. It has a lazy S curve and is about at the 2nd cylinder at the top. VERY HARD TO MEASURE THE TUBE ACCURATELY.
From what I can gather after some research is my tube PN is 12625031 with a matching dipstick of PN 1255158.
Just to verify correct full mark I made this rough drawing.
184918

[JimLev]

I forgot we had this conversation back in March.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?45668-LS3-engines-from-GM-Connect-and-Cruise-Oil-Pan-size

[Mastertech5]

The oil level (compared to where the bottom of the block is) in all the LS engines should be the same no matter what pan it has. The key is to have the tube and dipstick that go together.

[Mastertech5]

I got my rear evaporator installed, evacuated and charged. No more leaks and I have AC for the summer!
Bought some Mobil 1 and dumped some in the oil filter and the rest in the crankcase (5 quarts to the full mark JimLev). Hooked up the battery and looked for smoke, none found. I cranked it over (computer disconnected) 10 seconds at a time. The oil pressure gauge didn't budge. Then I noticed it doesn't register while cranking. 4 crank cycles and I could hear it spin over a little faster. I let the key go so it was in run and the gauge read 20lbs. Yes! BBQ today so first start soon. I just hope all my fuel lines don't leak.
Note: after checking the oil level after it sat for a while it is 1/2 quart low so 5 1/2 quarts, JimLev.

[Mastertech5]

I went to recheck my driveline angle again with the Tremec phone app now that it is on the tires and noticed the serpentine belt was on its way to coming off of a couple of pulleys. Curious. The tensioner looks like it's at a slight angle. Brand new so that's sucks. I'll have to crank the engine while watching to see. Always delays to first start. I did get green on all three angle checks after adjusting the rear upper control arms 1/2 turn to bring the pinion up. I was at 0 degrees, now at 1.4 deg.

[Mastertech5]

Belt problem solved! I took the tensioner off and put it in my vise on the mounting ears. The pulley was definitely off plane. I removed the pulley from the ear that rotates and gave the ear a couple light whacks with a small dead blow plastic hammer. It is now straight.inspected for cracks, none found. Reassembled to engine with belt on and it now stays on while cranking.

[Mastertech5]

Can a video from an iPhone be uploaded to a forum post? I took one for my first start but can't upload it.

[RoadRacer]

Belt problem solved! I took the tensioner off and put it in my vise on the mounting ears. The pulley was definitely off plane. I removed the pulley from the ear that rotates and gave the ear a couple light whacks with a small dead blow plastic hammer. It is now straight.inspected for cracks, none found. Reassembled to engine with belt on and it now stays on while cranking.

eek, good luck!

[TxMike64]

Can a video from an iPhone be uploaded to a forum post? I took one for my first start but can't upload it.

The easiest way might be to upload to youtube, then post the link.

[Mastertech5]

The easiest way might be to upload to youtube, then post the link.

I'm in the process of setting that up. I don't have a channel yet.

[33fromSD]

https://youtu.be/eP9-fHtO0sg
My first start. I hope this link works! It took me half a day to set it all up for YouTube.
I guess not. Stay tuned.
When I copied the link somehow a capital I was in front of the http. Who knows.

I get a "This video is private" error message

Jim

[Mastertech5]

I'm new to this video stuff so I'll try to fix it.

Try again.

[33fromSD]

I'm new to this video stuff so I'll try to fix it.

Try again.

Same, sorry.

When ever I did videos I used google share, set permissions for all to view and then sent a link, I don't use You Tube too much so wouldn't even know where to start on permissions / sharing and all that other BS.

Jim

[Mastertech5]

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-KDAE7mEb-h9pt90ea2UGsfLxcdyZ91o/view?usp=drivesdk
First Start!
Try this one.

[JimLev]

^-Looks like you need to set access/permission to all.

[Mastertech5]

^-Looks like you need to set access/permission to all.

I thought I did! They work for me. This sucks!
I turned link sharing on. It says anyone on internet with link can view.Try again.

[33fromSD]

I thought I did! They work for me. This sucks!
I turned link sharing on. It says anyone on internet with link can view.Try again.

Tried your google link above, it's telling me access denied..Sorry

Jim

[JimLev]

Still not working for me either.
I requested access yesterday, it said you would get an email to approve the request.
This is what we get.
185243

[Mastertech5]

???????????????

[RoadRacer]

YouTube is so much better than gdrive imo. It’s very easy to upload even from your phone. You only need to say “not made for kids” and the other defaults will give you a easily shared video that you can just paste the link into the video button above.

[Mastertech5]

YouTube is so much better than gdrive imo. It’s very easy to upload even from your phone. You only need to say “not made for kids” and the other defaults will give you a easily shared video that you can just paste the link into the video button above.

I did that and it didn't work. Everyone try the Google drive link again. I had 2 copies on there and only one had the share link turned on, now they both are.

[33fromSD]

That worked.

It sounds really nice, great job. Big milestone.

Jim