Bruce's long awaited journey begins: #1294

[Mastertech5]

I have to connect the overflow tank, fill with coolant and then I can go-kart! I live on a street that is a big P so I can just go around the circle. Video on that too now that I know how.

GO TO POST 242 AND CLICK ON GOOGLE LINK FOR FIRST START VIDEO. It works now.

[RoadRacer]

I have to connect the overflow tank, fill with coolant and then I can go-kart! I live on a street that is a big P so I can just go around the circle. Video on that too now that I know how.

GO TO POST 242 AND CLICK ON GOOGLE LINK FOR FIRST START VIDEO. It works now.

Yes!!! love it. I remember that day myself, so much fun. Funny how we all do the dash in plywood thing :D

Congrats

[Mastertech5]

That's because we see others do it, Good idea!
Well I was warming up the car before go-karting around my street and I started a video and was walking around the car recording it and I noticed a coolant leak that started after it pressurized. Halt the video! Drive it into the garage and found that the screws that hold the bracket to the hot water control valve were weeping. They were tight. Why would the holes go into to water passage of the valve? They should be blind holes. I hope I can put some sealer on them that will stop it. I'll let it cool down and we'll see. Stay tuned. It's always something.

[33fromSD]

That's because we see others do it, Good idea!
Well I was warming up the car before go-karting around my street and I started a video and was walking around the car recording it and I noticed a coolant leak that started after it pressurized. Halt the video! Drive it into the garage and found that the screws that hold the bracket to the hot water control valve were weeping. They were tight. Why would the holes go into to water passage of the valve? They should be blind holes. I hope I can put some sealer on them that will stop it. I'll let it cool down and we'll see. Stay tuned. It's always something.

Issues are a curse, but on the other hand the fun of these builds or vehicle restorations in general. I always tell people buying old cars or even on these kits that you will never really be done tinkering, building, modifying, etc., so if that is not in your wheel house this may not be for them.

After all this is a hobby so even as frustrating as issues or set-backs can be at times, for me personally being in a high-tech / high stress job for 35 years, resolving an issue on a vehicle is still better than sitting behind a desk. :o

Jim

[Mastertech5]

I took the motor off the HWCV bracket and removed the bracket. There are 2 o-rings on the shaft that fit into a recess. The top one was sticking out on one side and the the other therefore wasn't seated. I pushed one down into the recess as far as I could and put the other one on top. Slid the bracket back down and it touches the o-ring before sitting down on the valve. I put some silicone in the screw holes and tightened the screws slowly while trying to keep the top o-ring from popping out like before. I'll let it cure overnight and try again tomorrow.

[33fromSD]

I have a 70 Challenger that has a built 318 and the rear exhaust manifold holes in each head are drilled/tapped through to the cooling passages (intentionally by Dodge) which to me is the stupidest design ever.

When I first installed headers as you're supposed to, you retorque the header bolts after the first good warm up, but unfortunately when you do this on this 318, that 1/16 to 1/8 turn of the bolt is enough to break the silicone seal and the rear bolts will start seeping coolant.

Took me multiple tries to get it to not leak, but successful in the end, been good for several years now.

Jim

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[Mastertech5]

I have a 70 Challenger that has a built 318 and the rear exhaust manifold holes in each head are drilled/tapped through to the cooling passages (intentionally by Dodge) which to me is the stupidest design ever.

When I first installed headers as you're supposed to, you retorque the header bolts after the first good warm up, but unfortunately when you do this on this 318, that 1/16 to 1/8 turn of the bolt is enough to break the silicone seal and the rear bolts will start seeping coolant.

Took me multiple tries to get it to not leak, but successful in the end, been good for several years now.

Jim

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Looks good!

[Mastertech5]

I go-karted today and started a video. When I got back my tablet screen was black. Upon checking the video I discovered it stopped as I was about to go down the driveway. A message came up on the screen telling me that i had limited memory left. So it must have stopped recording at that point, bummer.
It ran well despite the fuel pressure gauge reading 80 lbs. I used a Corvette filter/regulator that's suppose to regulate it at 60 lbs. I used a Holley external pump rated at 100 gph. The pump that came with my kit is rated the same according to what it says on the box. I'm thinking the 1/4 return line on the sender is to small. GM uses 5/16 return lines. Regular filter and the regulator from the kit or larger return line. Opinions please.
The HWCV didn't leak, so that's good. I'll have to get a fuel pressure gauge that I can attach to the fuel rail and check. It was reading 60 lbs. yesterday.
I just noticed that after sitting for an hour the fuel pressure is at 10 lbs. It was holding at 40 lbs. overnight before. Maybe it's the filter/regulator.

[JimLev]

Congrats on the first start, sounds great.
My fuel pressure will also drop after the sits over night, think that it is perfectly normal.

[Mastertech5]

Congrats on the first start, sounds great.
My fuel pressure will also drop after the sits over night, think that it is perfectly normal.

It's the 80 lbs. While running that I'm concerned about. That's 20 lbs. too high.

[33fromSD]

I go-karted today and started a video. When I got back my tablet screen was black. Upon checking the video I discovered it stopped as I was about to go down the driveway. A message came up on the screen telling me that i had limited memory left. So it must have stopped recording at that point, bummer.
It ran well despite the fuel pressure gauge reading 80 lbs. I used a Corvette filter/regulator that's suppose to regulate it at 60 lbs. I used a Holley external pump rated at 100 gph. The pump that came with my kit is rated the same according to what it says on the box. I'm thinking the 1/4 return line on the sender is to small. GM uses 5/16 return lines. Regular filter and the regulator from the kit or larger return line. Opinions please.
The HWCV didn't leak, so that's good. I'll have to get a fuel pressure gauge that I can attach to the fuel rail and check. It was reading 60 lbs. yesterday.
I just noticed that after sitting for an hour the fuel pressure is at 10 lbs. It was holding at 40 lbs. overnight before. Maybe it's the filter/regulator.

Only thing better than that first start is the first go-kart run. Adrenalin is pumping, nerves are at an all time high, but the joy & excitement is unexplainable, the pride is off the charts. The neighbors are all looking out their windows with mixed thoughts (some are saying what is that, others are saying that is so cool, some just giggling with you), G-R-E-A-T job, well done on a successful run.

Good luck sorting out the fuel pressure hick-up, I'm sure you'll figure it out in no time..

Jim

[Mastertech5]

Here's the start of my Go-Kart video. I'll do one with the driving part when I get the fuel pressure figured out and it stops raining.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/966hs788m5bzfrr/VID_20230602_120816.mp4?dl=0

Choose your browser to view unless you have Dropbox.

[JimLev]

Where is your regulator located? Can’t you just turn it down to 60 PSI?

[Ltfracing]

Sounds great,get yourself a good adjustable fuel pressure regulator,we tried running the fuel filter regulator on our TA 2 cars and they never worked correctly, they ran either to high or to low

[Mastertech5]

I have one. I have a testing gauge coming tomorrow so I can diag. it. That's probably what I'll end up doing, just have to put a different filter on and replumb things. I used a Corvette style filter with the built in regulator, mistake I guess. I didn't want to run a return line back from the engine. I'll put the regulator in back by the filter.

[TxMike64]

I've heard mixed results on the GM filter/regulators. The info I have is that the no-name aftermarket brand ones are all over the place in regards to pressure output. The OE GM part, the AC-Delco and Wix seem to be fairly reliable. Also what pump are you using?

[JimLev]

Whatever regulator and filter FFR shipped with my kit is working fine. I set it and it’s always showing the correct pressure.
Maybe it has something to do with the return line size, I’m using a 5/16 return line.

[DanQ]

Well, I will consider myself lucky. My 33 HR was delivered 5/29/23 and the most important parts missing were the rear axle upper control arms, and the wiring harness (which arrived today) Everything else was minor, like some bolts, the license plate bracket, and the parking brake clevises. One week after delivery, I got the inventory done, frame prepped, primed, and painted satin black, then started with the front suspension. The humidity can ease off anytime in Minnesota, we have had a stretch of hot, sticky weather.

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[Mastertech5]

Well, I will consider myself lucky. My 33 HR was delivered 5/29/23 and the most important parts missing were the rear axle upper control arms, and the wiring harness (which arrived today) Everything else was minor, like some bolts, the license plate bracket, and the parking brake clevises. One week after delivery, I got the inventory done, frame prepped, primed, and painted satin black, then started with the front suspension. The humidity can ease off anytime in Minnesota, we have had a stretch of hot, sticky weather.

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It's hard to remember when my frame looked like that. It's been a year since I brought my kit home.

[Mastertech5]

Whatever regulator and filter FFR shipped with my kit is working fine. I set it and it’s always showing the correct pressure.
Maybe it has something to do with the return line size, I’m using a 5/16 return line.

I installed the pressure regulator and fuel filter today. Now I had to order 3 more AN fittings to make everything connect. I had 5/16" hose for the return before but the return pipe into the tank is 1/4" so I used the 4 AN fitting and hose that came with the kit this time. I've read a couple posts that mention this and they say they have no issues with the 1/4" return.

[Mastertech5]

The fittings I ordered were on the front porch when we got back from my grandson's little league game, they won 11-8.
I got the rest of the hoses configured and installed the fuel pressure test gauge I ordered on the fuel rail. Turned the key on and no leaks. The pressure was at 30 lbs. Cranked the screw in on the regulator and tried again, 40 lbs. I kept turning it in and repeating the fuel pump prime sequence until it was at 60 lbs. on both the test gauge and the one in the line from the kit. Started the engine and rechecked, 60 lbs. Yeah! I'll try to Go-Kart tomorrow if the weather is ok and take another video. I deleted some stuff on my tablet and have over 2 gigs free, should be enough.

[Mastertech5]

Here's my Go-Kart video. The microphone is on the bottom so I could have the camera up so sound isn't so good.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/tl7t82wxl44k06z/VID_20230608_125317.mp4?dl=0

[BradC]

Here's my Go-Kart video. The microphone is on the bottom so I could have the camera up so sound isn't so good.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/tl7t82wxl44k06z/VID_20230608_125317.mp4?dl=0

Very cool! Congratulations!!

[Mastertech5]

After go-karting I grabbed my neighbor (who has a SN95 Mustang GT) and we put the body on. More work to do.
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From my phone so sideways.

[RoadRacer]

After go-karting I grabbed my neighbor (who has a SN95 Mustang GT) and we put the body on. More work to do.
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From my phone so sideways.

congrats! Interesting, I've never noticed before how they changed the UCA and radiator support.

[Mastertech5]

I haven't seen a gen1 up close and paid attention enough to know they were different before I started my build. I just saw the ones in the showroom but was looking at other stuff.

[Mastertech5]

The last two days have been frustrating! The body didn't want to go down where it should. I had to grind and cut here and there to get it where it needed to go. There was flash from the mold just above the RR upper crossbar at the end I had to grind flat, now the door sills are on the frame rails. The front sides didn't want to go in to get behind The footbox edges. The slot they cut out on each side so the body can go around the frame tubes where the firewall and foot boxes meet needed to be trimmed. I cut the upper corner off on each side to clear the slanted frame tubes behind the firewall and extended the cutout half as wide down about an inch to clear a weld that goes down further than the cutouts. Now it sits good. I put a couple rivets through the firewall to secure the body and drilled and screwed under the door openings as it says in the manual. I cut a small piece of 1x board (which is 3/4" wide) and sanded one corner so it fit nicely into the trunk lid recess. I made a small cut in the wood to make it 5/8" wide as specified in the manual. I scribed a line with an awl against the wood as I slid it down the recess. I found a bottle cap about the right radius to scribe the curves for the corners so the weatherstrip will go on smoothly in the corners. Tomorrow I'll try to tackle the trunk lid.l

[BradC]

Yeah, the bodies on these are less than a good fit for sure. I had to do most of what you mentioned on mine just to get the main part to fit good enough for mockup build. The body shop has had to do a ton more to get it dialed in. They told me FFR fixed a lot of the common problems with the 33 on the 35 truck body but they clearly haven't gone back to improve the 33. Probably hard to justify the effort with the relatively low sales numbers on it. Plus they're heads down these days focusing on the off road racing thing with the F-150 chassis.

Are you planning on doing all the bodywork yourself?

[Mastertech5]

Yeah, the bodies on these are less than a good fit for sure. I had to do most of what you mentioned on mine just to get the main part to fit good enough for mockup build. The body shop has had to do a ton more to get it dialed in. They told me FFR fixed a lot of the common problems with the 33 on the 35 truck body but they clearly haven't gone back to improve the 33. Probably hard to justify the effort with the relatively low sales numbers on it. Plus they're heads down these days focusing on the off road racing thing with the F-150 chassis.

Are you planning on doing all the bodywork yourself?

Yeah, because otherwise its cost prohibitive. I can't wait. LOL. I can do the bodywork and have a lot of bodywork tools, it's the painting I'm not sure about.

[BradC]

You can always do the prep and have it painted. A friend of mine just did that on a Firebird. He paid Maaco to just shoot it and he supplied the paint. It came out pretty nice.

[Mastertech5]

I don't even know if there is a Maaco around here anymore. There was about 30 years ago. I had my Mustang painted with baked enamal at Earl Sheib in Boston in 1974 or '75 for $50.00 and I did the prep.

[Mastertech5]

Today I got the trunk lid gapped. It fits pretty good. I just have to install the nutserts in it for the hinges, adjust and touch up the gaps in a few places. I'm not seeming to have a problem with the arc not matching the body arc like I've read some other builders have had, yay!

[33fromSD]

Today I got the trunk lid gapped. It fits pretty good. I just have to install the nutserts in it for the hinges, adjust and touch up the gaps in a few places. I'm not seeming to have a problem with the arc not matching the body arc like I've read some other builders have had, yay!

The Arc / overall fit on the deck lid seems to be hit or miss. My Gen 2 a few years ago fit just fine too, but then folks who got kits a couple months after mine had terrible fit issues.

Jim

[Mastertech5]

I did the gaps on the top and sides first by taping the lid down and then running tape along the lid to simulate a gap. Then I sanded to the edges of the tape and taped the lid back on and checked. Repeated the process until I was happy. Then I did the bottom edge. Rounded the corners a bit and took the sharp edges down a bit. I got the nutserts installed and taped the lid down where I wanted it and tightened the bolts up. It goes up and down good. The lid just scuffs in the middle top. I'll sand that down some more and round off the edges top and bottom. I'll widen the gaps in a couple other places and round off all the sharp edges. Then on to the doors.

[33fromSD]

Don't sand too much on the middle top of the deck lid until you have the waterfall installed on the inside which will stiffen the part of the body above the deck lid. I noticed on mine there was a lot of flex in the body above the deck lid until the waterfall is in place to stiffen it up. When you open and close the deck lid watch the body section above the deck lid and you can see it flex some.

Another thing you should do which some do, some don't, is install the rubber weatherstrip on the body for the rear deck lid, this will also help you visualize how the deck lid will line up with the weather strip installed. This does change the fit some. Better to know it now before you paint then after you paint an figure out you have an issue.

Jim

[Mastertech5]

Don't sand too much on the middle top of the deck lid until you have the waterfall installed on the inside which will stiffen the part of the body above the deck lid. I noticed on mine there was a lot of flex in the body above the deck lid until the waterfall is in place to stiffen it up. When you open and close the deck lid watch the body section above the deck lid and you can see it flex some.

Another thing you should do which some do, some don't, is install the rubber weatherstrip on the body for the rear deck lid, this will also help you visualize how the deck lid will line up with the weather strip installed. This does change the fit some. Better to know it now before you paint then after you paint an figure out you have an issue.

Jim

I did put the weatherstrip on. The manual says to and ,to me, it only makes sense to do it that way. I did notice the flexibility of the center area of the body. Good to know about the waterfall, thanks!

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[33fromSD]

Looks great, similar to how mine fit. Then I've seen others where they are up a good 1/4" in the arc.

Jim

[Just 1 More]

I did put the weatherstrip on. The manual says to and ,to me, it only makes sense to do it that way. I did notice the flexibility of the center area of the body. Good to know about the waterfall, thanks!

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That looks great

[JimLev]

I made 3 L-bracket to pull down the back of the rear cowl so the edge of the trunk would clear the edge of the cowl.

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[Mastertech5]

I made 3 L-bracket to pull down the back of the rear cowl so the edge of the trunk would clear the edge of the cowl.

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That's a good idea! When you do final assembly after paint there is that foam strip that goes on top of the frame rail and I'm sure that would push it up. Did you bond them to the body and rivet the lower sections?

[Mastertech5]

Today I worked on the passenger door. I got the gaps ok for now. I'm having trouble not being able to get the panel lined up flush with the body all around. The main problem is the lower front where the big curve is. If I get the back ok the front is in too far. If I get the front ok the rear lower is out too far. It's like the door is twisted. I've loosened all the bolts on the hinges and the stand off, lined things up and it seems ok until I tighten the nuts on the hinge arms in the door. Things move when the nuts are turned. I had it good once but I took the door off to widen the gap on the top rear because it would chafe on the upper corner of the body where it goes from vertical to horizontal. I'm thinking I might have to enlarge the holes for the door latch bolts except the top one so I can pivot the lower part of the door out on the cross bar. Then I'll have to go through this all again after paint.

[33fromSD]

Today I worked on the passenger door. I got the gaps ok for now. I'm having trouble not being able to get the panel lined up flush with the body all around. The main problem is the lower front where the big curve is. If I get the back ok the front is in too far. If I get the front ok the rear lower is out too far. It's like the door is twisted. I've loosened all the bolts on the hinges and the stand off, lined things up and it seems ok until I tighten the nuts on the hinge arms in the door. Things move when the nuts are turned. I had it good once but I took the door off to widen the gap on the top rear because it would chafe on the upper corner of the body where it goes from vertical to horizontal. I'm thinking I might have to enlarge the holes for the door latch bolts except the top one so I can pivot the lower part of the door out on the cross bar. Then I'll have to go through this all again after paint.

It's not the doors themselves, it's the metal work of the doors guts. See my build page (link by my signature) and look at post #182 & #185 to see what I figured out and what I did to make everything line up great. I'm fairly certain if you make these modifications your door will line up great.

Jim

[RoadRacer]

> It's like the door is twisted

They are. But once you know this it’s easier to fix. All build threads have this realization and similar fixes :)

[JimLev]

That's a good idea! When you do final assembly after paint there is that foam strip that goes on top of the frame rail and I'm sure that would push it up. Did you bond them to the body and rivet the lower sections?

I used screws to hold the L-brackets in place. The top screws are countersunk into the fiberglass so they are even with the body. The weatherstripping covers the screw head.
I also has a bear of a time getting both doors aligned, FFR had to replace the drivers door, it was warped pretty bad.

[Mastertech5]

SUCCESS! I made the modifications suggested by 33fromSD. Much better. I still had to pull the lower front section out a little on the bar. When I took the bar out to make the bend I noticed the lower holes for the latch on the bar are slotted, so I put everything back in the door, got it where I wanted it and tighten things up. The lower front was still in a little. I opened the door, loosened the latch bolts and pulled it out just a hair and tighten them. When I closed the door everything lined up. Thanks 33fromSD!
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In the second picture it looks like it's out too far but you're seeing the sanded edge in the gap. It is flush with the body. One thing I figured out, because I leaned down on the door, is that you have to tighten up the two bolts that connect the cross bar and the rear bracket super tight. I grabbed the bar to support it while I pushed down on my ratchet with all my might. You can't use an impact gun because the nuts are on the back side. FFR should have designed it with 3 bolts.

[33fromSD]

SUCCESS! I made the modifications suggested by 33fromSD. Much better. I still had to pull the lower front section out a little on the bar. When I took the bar out to make the bend I noticed the lower holes for the latch on the bar are slotted, so I put everything back in the door, got it where I wanted it and tighten things up. The lower front was still in a little. I opened the door, loosened the latch bolts and pulled it out just a hair and tighten them. When I closed the door everything lined up. Thanks 33fromSD!
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In the second picture it looks like it's out too far but you're seeing the sanded edge in the gap. It is flush with the body. One thing I figured out, because I leaned down on the door, is that you have to tighten up the two bolts that connect the cross bar and the rear bracket super tight. I grabbed the bar to support it while I pushed down on my ratchet with all my might. You can't use an impact gun because the nuts are on the back side. FFR should have designed it with 3 bolts.

Looks great, nice job!! The other suggestion I would make for making things easier for reassembly after paint and future wear & tear is once you get this to the point where you want it in the rough in stage, add a couple alignment bolts (drill 5/16" hole and add grade 8 hardware) to the main cross bar support where it ties into the hinge bracket. With the holes from FFR being slotted for adjustment they could move over time no matter how tight you make them but with the two added holes nothing will move and it will be much easier to reassemble after paint.

Jim

[Mastertech5]

I went to do the driver's door today. I put in the hinge arms and pulled the bracket all the way up and snugged it up.The arms were in the middle of the cut slots. They are at the top edge on the passenger side. I slid them into the door and went to tape it on and I couldn't get it up far enough to be level with the body. I guessed I had cut them too far down, but no. I measured on the other side and the cuts in both doors are the same. I started measuring things and the body is almost 1/2" higher than the other side. Both sides are even with the bottom of the frame.The hinge brackets are at the same spot in relation to the frame. The top of the body just behind the door openings is 7 3/8" left side and 6 7/8" right side from the top of the hinges brackets.

[JimLev]

I think I mentioned a while ago that the 2 sides are not mirror images.
Others have said the same thing.

[Mastertech5]

I'll have to pull the hinge brackets and lengthen the slots to get them up where I need them. It's always something. I built a 500 plus piece Lego mustang and it only took me 3 days! LOL.
Well I can't do that. The slots are already as far as they can go. Plan B - relocate the slots and holes in the door for the rear bracket up 1/2" - done. I'll test fit the innards to see how things line up tomorrow. Now I'm worried about the hardtop fitment being lopsided because of the height difference.

[33fromSD]

I'll have to pull the hinge brackets and lengthen the slots to get them up where I need them. It's always something. I built a 500 plus piece Lego mustang and it only took me 3 days! LOL.
Well I can't do that. The slots are already as far as they can go. Plan B - relocate the slots and holes in the door for the rear bracket up 1/2" - done. I'll test fit the innards to see how things line up tomorrow. Now I'm worried about the hardtop fitment being lopsided because of the height difference.

Ah yes, that is the biggest misperception of any "kit" car and the number one reason you find unfinished kit cars for sale. The general thought is it's a kit car so part A fits to part B move on to the next step and when it doesn't people get frustrated cause they don't have the know how or skill to adapt or re-engineer something so they put it in the corner for "a while and plan to get back to it", then a year, two years, etc. passes by, they lose interest or some other life event comes up and they end up selling it.

Not saying this is you Mastertech5, just giving the general scenario, I know you have the skills & know how to figure this out but no these kits do not just fit together, there is engineering & modification involved.

Hang in there, you're doing fine.

Jim

[JimLev]

I had to build up numerous areas as well as the whole front and rear of the roof where it meets the front and rear body cowl.
You should tap on the A pillars with something to make sure they aren’t paper thin. I had to glass both of them.

[Mastertech5]

If there is one or two things about me it is that I am a problem solver and I don't like to give up on something until it is blatantly obvious that there is no point of going on. I'll figure it out with the help of some friends here on the forum. Thanks guys for the support!
I moved the rear bracket up in the door and now it sits at the right height. I noticed that the left inner door opening is cut about 1 1/2" further in than the right door. It blocks access to the lower of the two carriage bolts connecting the two brackets. I have it marked like the other side to cut today. It's suppose to rain most of the day so I probably won't be able to get the gaps done. I do that outside to keep the dust in my garage to a minimum. I use an N95 mask too.

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[Mastertech5]

I started on the driver's door today and the front and back edges were cut wrong. They left so much overhang in the back that I had to remove to get the front slanted part to fit in that the front lower half of the gap is over 1/4" and I haven't sanded it yet. Not the door edge but where the end of the dash is. The bottom is almost even with the rocker and would require minimal sanding. The door opening measures within an 1/8" of the other side. I'm thinking of asking for another door. My other option would be to extend the front of the door where it needs it but I still need to get the door back further so the striker will clear. There is no guarantee a new door would be any different.

[JimLev]

While your working on the doors drill 3-4 small hole in the bottom inside edge to let water drain out. You’ll get water building up in there when you wash it or when you get caught in the rain.

[Mastertech5]

I got the left door mounted finally! I had to remove about 1/2" of material to get that front slanted area to fit in.186053 it was at the end of the arrow! All is good except where I need to add at the front curve.
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The rest came out good and it's in the same plane with the body.
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A few adjustments on all the gaps after fixing the curve and then on to the hood. It seems too short and the sides at the body are tight. I had to push it down. Another puzzle to solve.

[Mastertech5]

I got all my door gaps set and the strikers installed and adjusted. I posted a question in the body thread. Just looking for confirmation on my opinion or not. Thanks

[Mastertech5]

I've been working on the nose cone and side covers. In order not to have a 1/2" gap at the back of the hood I have the grill positioned at about the only spot it can be. The nose cone is short at the grill and the bottom of the side covers are short. I 'll have to extend them with some fiberglass work. 33fromSD had some great tips as he had the same situation. Many guys handle all the mechanical part of these builds without many problems. That part is pretty straight forward. The body part requires patience and ingenuity to fit the panels so they look right. Having this Forum to get advice on this project is invaluable. Thanks all!
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[33fromSD]

I've been working on the nose cone and side covers. In order not to have a 1/2" gap at the back of the hood I have the grill positioned at about the only spot it can be. The nose cone is short at the grill and the bottom of the side covers are short. I 'll have to extend them with some fiberglass work. 33fromSD had some great tips as he had the same situation. Many guys handle all the mechanical part of these builds without many problems. That part is pretty straight forward. The body part requires patience and ingenuity to fit the panels so they look right. Having this Forum to get advice on this project is invaluable. Thanks all!
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Your first pic was eerily similar to the situation I had which forced me to do the extending of fiberglass on the nose cone which in the end turned out great. My side panels for some odd reason though were long so I was able to trim those to fit nice.

Your side panels & nose cone will look great too when you do the same, just adds a few extra steps but in the end it will pay off. Keep up the good work, it's looking great.

Jim

[Mastertech5]

Your first pic was eerily similar to the situation I had which forced me to do the extending of fiberglass on the nose cone which in the end turned out great. My side panels for some odd reason though were long so I was able to trim those to fit nice.

Your side panels & nose cone will look great too when you do the same, just adds a few extra steps but in the end it will pay off. Keep up the good work, it's looking great.

Jim

I'm trying. Thanks for the support!
I think the fan shroud I'm using needs to be redesigned by making the slanted part a 90 bend and then straight down to the lower tank. The way it's configured now you can't get the lower grill as close as it should be. The shroud contacts the UCA mount before you can get the grill in where it should be causing you to tilt it out on the bottom. Just another custom car hiccup.

[Mastertech5]

I worked on the nose cone today to extend it the necessary amount. I riveted aluminum flashing on it lined with parchment paper, mounted it, drew a line along the grill line and cut to shape. Now for the fiberglass tomorrow hopefully.
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[33fromSD]

I worked on the nose cone today to extend it the necessary amount. I riveted aluminum flashing on it lined with parchment paper, mounted it, drew a line along the grill line and cut to shape. Now for the fiberglass tomorrow hopefully.
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Nice!! Be sure to rough up the existing fiber glass along the areas where your adding glass so it bonds really nice. I think I used 120 grit on my little sanding disc on my die grinder,

Should look great!

Jim

[Mastertech5]

I did the fiberglass today. I had to remove my "mold" to enlarge a couple of holes because the aluminum wasn't lying flat against the nosecone. I wasn't sure how much to mix so I way over did it the first time. I had to stop because it started gelling up on me. Second batch was 2 ounces and I added one more layer over the existing nosecone and did the split in the middle at the back. I had just enough.
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I measured across the legs on the body and clamped and taped the nosecone at the appropriate places to match.

[33fromSD]

I did the fiberglass today. I had to remove my "mold" to enlarge a couple of holes because the aluminum wasn't lying flat against the nosecone. I wasn't sure how much to mix so I way over did it the first time. I had to stop because it started gelling up on me. Second batch was 2 ounces and I added one more layer over the existing nosecone and did the split in the middle at the back. I had just enough.
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I measured across the legs on the body and clamped and taped the nosecone at the appropriate places to match.

Nice, now it's just wait a few hours, and then like a kid on Christmas, tear into and see what you got! :cool:

I'm always amazed how warm resin gets when it's curing.

Jim

[Mastertech5]

I trimmed it after dinner and it came out pretty good. I'm going to have to put another layer on the bottom side. It's a little thin although I put 3 layers of mat on it. I've got it all sanded down and ready for another coat along with the bottom where the split is. I need to build that up about a 1/4" so I can grind the top for rad hose clearance.
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[33fromSD]

Looks great.

Jim

[Mastertech5]

Well it took me 2 weeks but I finally have the nosecone fitting good. It's still a little rough and needs some filler to make it look good. I've been doing more stuff on the house and in the yard lately. My wife says I spend too much time on that car thing in the garage. A happy wife is A happy life as they say. So I've done some stuff I've been neglecting. We all compromise on things to make things work out.

[BradC]

Well it took me 2 weeks but I finally have the nosecone fitting good. It's still a little rough and needs some filler to make it look good. I've been doing more stuff on the house and in the yard lately. My wife says I spend too much time on that car thing in the garage. A happy wife is A happy life as they say. So I've done some stuff I've been neglecting. We all compromise on things to make things work out.

Very true!! Congrats on the progress though. I know how rough those panels are.

[Mastertech5]

After doing some property stuff, trim bushes, fix the front door moldings and door frame (my dog wanted out when we left him too long, (wedding), I have been working on the dash. I wanted the speedo and tach behind the steering wheel so placement was critical with the master cylinders there. Getting the headlight switch on the left side and leaving room for an AC outlet was a chore but I managed. I ordered a LED check engine light to put low between the speedo and tach. The high beam indicator is going between them toward the top and the turn signal indicators are going a little to each side of them.
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I still need to get a clock, USB port and mount the HVAC controls and outlets.

[33fromSD]

After doing some property stuff, trim bushes, fix the front door moldings and door frame (my dog wanted out when we left him too long, (wedding), I have been working on the dash. I wanted the speedo and tach behind the steering wheel so placement was critical with the master cylinders there. Getting the headlight switch on the left side and leaving room for an AC outlet was a chore but I managed. I ordered a LED check engine light to put low between the speedo and tach. The high beam indicator is going between them toward the top and the turn signal indicators are going a little to each side of them.
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I still need to get a clock, USB port and mount the HVAC controls and outlets.

Looks good. I love the old school shifter handle too (ha ,ha).

Jim

[Mastertech5]

Yeah. I couldn't see spending almost $200 dollars on a handle and knob when I don't know exactly what position I want it to end up in.

[Mastertech5]

I've been piddling around with things while getting property chores done. I ordered 4 LED indicator lights for the dash. 1 check engine light, 1 high beam indicator and 2 directional arrows. I didn't like the ones in the kit and I wanted a ck eng light, which my computer has an output for, so when I found it on Amazon you could pick between different ones for all sorts of things. Had to go for the others to match. I have an AutoMeter matching platinum clock ordered from AutoMeter, due to arrive friday. I cut holes and got the AC vents in on the ends which are curved. They didn't want to sit good so I bought a 2 1/2" ID exhaust adapter and cut 2 rings off it just wide enough to be even at 2 points on each side of the panel. I had to cut about 3/16" off of the part that screws on the back of the vent so it could screw on enough to hold. I'll cement them in after painting with black epoxy. Just one more hole for the clock, wire the new stuff up and test the components. After I make sure everything works, back apart and finish the panel.

After going to the FFR Cruise-in last Saturday I was able to eyeball the one Gen 2 Hot Rod that showed up. There were 4 Gen 1s. and a ton of Cobras. Got some good tips from the owner about the nose cone and side covers mountings. Those have to be the worst body panels of all the FFR cars to get right. I'm working on them. I noticed that every time I left the nose cone on the car overnight or longer it would look wet under the radiator. I tightened the lower hose clamps but that wasn't it. Then I saw a drip from the petcock. Gave the drain screw a tweak but that wasn't it. I put a wrench on the boss and turned it in about an 1/8th of a turn and that stopped it. I have Teflon tape on it too.

[JimLev]

Do you have any pics from the FFR cruise in?

[Mastertech5]

A couple. lol189280189281189282
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[Mastertech5]

After getting some advice from a few great guys I finally have the nose cone and side covers fitted. I just need to add a little material to the lower fronts and upper back edges of the panels. My hood as delivered was pinched in on the sides where it sits on the body. This was my solution as suggested by 33fromSD. Two holes on one end are slotted to provide adjustment. 1/2" electrical conduit smashed flat on the ends. 1 /4-20 rivnuts in the hood with JB Weld on the flutes under the head and squeeze 'em home.
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Fits perfect now and there's room for overlapping the upper rear side panel attachment pieces after thinning them and the inner hood in that area.

[Mastertech5]

It's been a whilesince I've posted on my build thread. I've been working on the front body panels to dial them in among other things. I got the fenders on and the dash in except for the clock. I pulled it out of the garage today and let it idle for a while till the fan came on, about 210 degrees. I revved it up some for coolant circulation and the temp came down and the fan went off. The gauges all work except the tach. I'll have to check that out.
I still need to gap the hood. It's close but it needs a little more.here's some walk around pics.

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[Jeff33Ford]

That looks great. Your patience is paying off in a big way.

[BradC]

Good progress!!

[Just 1 More]

I am so jealous

[TxMike64]

Nice!

[Mastertech5]

My daughter is here from Hawaii for a visit and wanted to go for a quick ride. I put the other lap belt in and set the other seat in place and I took her down to the end of the street and back, about 1000 ft. I got on it some on the way back. This thing is stupid quick. OMG. Way faster than my old hopped up 302 65 Mustang 2+2.

[Mastertech5]

Just finished my newest Hot Rod build
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It’s a “puzzle” that’s plywood punch outs held together by toothpicks.

[BradC]

I have that same one! Funny. It was fun to build but took longer than I was expecting.

[Mastertech5]

I kept breaking toothpicks. It took me about a week and sore thumbs pushing the pieces out. A couple of x-acto knife cuts too, but I'm retired so could spent most of a day on it.

[Mastertech5]

Finally got warm enough to do some work. I need to finish my mongrel exhaust system. Had it done to just behind the passenger compartment and need to get it out the back. I bought a 2 1/2 polished stainless pipe kit with 4 180s, 4 90s,4 45s and 4 straights. A lot of pipe for what I need but cheaper than buying just the stuff I needed separately. Now I need to figure out where to cut to get things where they need to be and mark the cut joints for alignment and off to the welder to have them Tigged. I still need to get the outlet tips. Looking at options.

[Mastertech5]

It's been a while since I posted so hey everyone. I got 2 V-clamps welded at key points on each side and then I had surgery on my right thumb for some thing they call trigger finger. When you go to bend your finger the joint like catches then snaps into position.some pain is involved. They called the procedure "releasing the pulley". Didn't do anything for a month after that. Then I pulled a muscle in my lower back at the hip bone. No work done after that for a couple of weeks but I finally got the pipes cut and positioned to my liking. Made index marks for the relationship positions and had them welded. Found some stainless clamp on tips that are just like the FFR ones. Look great. Pic tomorrow, it's late.

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