The race is on - Namrups 65 Daytona Coupe build

[Namrups]

One last item I needed to complete before dropping the engine in was the main ground strap between the engine and the frame. Natural instinct is to attach it using an engine mount bolt and the frame on the PS side of the car next to the starter. There is a hole in the chassis engine mount at that location but the way the bracing is there is no real room to get a fastener in there. I chose to use the DS instead. There was plenty of room to get the bolt in.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173213&d=1664630550

I am ready (I hope) to drop the engine in now! I am still waiting for the accelerator linkage that Forte is developing for the coupe but I should be able to install that with the engine in.

Dan, Pat and Jerry of the Upstate Cobra Club stopped by on Thursday and we dropped the engine in. There was no drama in putting the engine in but it's not without issues.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173205&d=1664630502
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173207&d=1664630502
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173206&d=1664630502

[Namrups]

The first issue I have is the Forte supplied hydraulic clutch slave cylinder was hitting the chassis member.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173224&d=1664630642
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173223&d=1664630642
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173217&d=1664630597

We removed it as to not damage it. I contacted Mike and he said I got the wrong slave cylinder and is sending the correct one that I should receive today.

The next issue is not being able to line up the transmission crossmember with the transmission mount.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173219&d=1664630597
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173222&d=1664630642
I talked to FF and they mentioned flipping the bracket. I will continue to look at this and follow up.

[Namrups]

The final issue is the fact that the cross brace on the transmission tunnel is right in the way of the shift lever. If you look close at this picture you can see that the brace is welded in the front at the intersection of the chassis members but at the rear is is short of this intersection. If they were to weld it starting at the rear intersection it would move that brace back enough to clear the shift lever. It looks like I will have to get the Sawzall out and remove that brace.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173220&d=1664630642
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173221&d=1664630642

[James Morse]

There isn't the option to move the shift lever? Some trans have multiple locations?
Seems like you shouldn't have to cut things but I've heard of it.

[Namrups]

There are 3 positions. The two easy ones are under the cross member and will depend on which way you put the shift cover on. The third one is that blank plate in front. That is a separate kit that has to be purchased and the whole rear end of the transmission has to be removed and the internals changed. Not something I would want to do if I don't have to. There is also the question of clearing the dash being that far forward. I don't plan on racing so I don't believe removing this brace will really effect anything with the car.

[Namrups]

Engine bay clearance

I had a request to see pictures of the engine install from above to see what kind of clearance there is. I figured others might also be interested so here they are. The engine is based on the 351 block (Boss 427 Stroker) with AFR heads. Weiand 8023WND intake. Sniper EFI. The front is dressed with alternator, power steering pump and air conditioner compressor. Headers are not shown because I do not have them yet. Transmission is TKX. The motor is presently secured on the motor mounts. The transmission mount is not yet secured. The drive shaft is in. The pinion angle is not yet set.

Overall from top.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173303&d=1664805460

Firewall clearance from PS.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173307&d=1664805488

PS rear.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173306&d=1664805488

PS front.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173305&d=1664805488

Front engine bay.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173304&d=1664805460

[Namrups]

Clearance continued

DS front.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173302&d=1664805460

DS rear.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173301&d=1664805460

Firewall clearance from DS.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173300&d=1664805460

Hope this helps.

[Namrups]

I have looked at the issue of the cross brace being in the way of the shifter from every angle. I can see only 2 solutions. 1: buy the shift kit to move the shifter all the way to the front. This is not workable for me. I do not want to pull the engine out for one and I think it would be very, of not too close to the dash. 2: Cut the cross brace to clear the shifter. If anyone else has another option please feel free to speak up!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173308&d=1664826814

[LateApex]

Health update!

Had an appointment with my cancer doctor today. Good news! Good to go for another three months. Better news! Because I have done so well on the medication, my doctor has decided to try a lower dosage of the cancer meds! He believes a lower dosage will still keep the cancer at bay and reduce some of the side effects such as muscle and joint pain, hypertension and what I feel is most important the out of pocket cost! He wanted to see me after only three months just to make sure all is well. Praying this works.

Due to the fact it was over 100 degrees today I decided to put off working on the car and instead went in search of a supplier of sheet aluminum. I have ideas of parts and pieces I want to fab and didn't want to wait for online sales. I found a local business called Metal Supermarket that specializes in small orders. They had a cutoff rack that I found three pieces 20" x 22" and I ordered two specific cut pieces 23" x 7 1/2" all for $56.00. When I priced this online it was over $100.00! Great find.

Really nice to hear about your update with your doc. You must be doing something right:-) Continue with your fun agenda with this build. Maybe all will be in the rear view mirror before long!

[LateApex]

I have looked at the issue of the cross brace being in the way of the shifter from every angle. I can see only 2 solutions. 1: buy the shift kit to move the shifter all the way to the front. This is not workable for me. I do not want to pull the engine out for one and I think it would be very, of not too close to the dash. 2: Cut the cross brace to clear the shifter. If anyone else has another option please feel free to speak up!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173308&d=1664826814

I have a different setup with my SBF / TKO600, and I opted for the midshift. This may not be relevant to your design constraints. It did solve the cross member excision question for me tho. However, and there are more things in play like seat choice and steering wheel position, but in my case, it is a little crowded with the mid-shift. Short hands (or bent elbows) with both steering wheel and shifter. If wishes were fishes, I would wish for a bit more of a stretched position. But then ... I am just getting used to this layout. I may choose to design or find a different shift lever - I cheated a bit and drilled and tapped a different mounting hole in the kit lever to open it up for me a bit; perhaps not enough.

I am going to get some road time on this little beastie. Muscle memory will make all of this moot for me I expect :-)

[Jeff Kleiner]

Looking great Scott! Last I knew a mid shift is not yet available for the TKX. Cut the diagonal tube and carry on…trust me, the car won’t collapse upon itself when you do ;)

Jeff

[Namrups]

Looking great Scott! Last I knew a mid shift is not yet available for the TKX. Cut the diagonal tube and carry on…trust me, the car won’t collapse upon itself when you do ;)

Jeff

Thanks for the kind words Jeff! If I was going to race this car I would remove and then reinstall that brace in a different location but as a street car I will just cut a portion of it out of the way and move on.

[Skuzzy]

Any option I come up with is going to require some welding. The purpose of the brace is to help prevent the left and right side of the tunnel from moving forward and back, independent of each other. Looking at the rest of the design, there is little chance of that happening with the brace removed, except in extreme circumstances (i.e. rolling the car for example).

It can help with some potential flexing of the left and right side of the upper tunnel., but that motion is alleviated with the attachment of the aluminum panels.

[Namrups]

Any option I come up with is going to require some welding. The purpose of the brace is to help prevent the left and right side of the tunnel from moving forward and back, independent of each other. Looking at the rest of the design, there is little chance of that happening with the brace removed, except in extreme circumstances (i.e. rolling the car for example).

It can help with some potential flexing of the left and right side of the upper tunnel., but that motion is alleviated with the attachment of the aluminum panels.

If I roll the car, side tunnel movement will be the least of my problems!:p IMO removal of that bar will not be a big issue for a street car.

[Skuzzy]

If I roll the car, side tunnel movement will be the least of my problems!:p IMO removal of that bar will not be a big issue for a street car.

I agree. I am going to have the same problem when I get there.

Slow going for me. For instance, it took me 15 minutes to install the rack, but 2 hours to move the boxes around enough to find the parts needed to install it. Then there is the one hour setup time before I can start work. It was even slower going before I bought a 10'x10' shade structure and put it up the driveway. Getting the frame into the driveway allowed me to work better and safer. Just takes time to put up and tear down the tent each day.

I just hope I can get enough done before winter sets in.

[Namrups]

I agree. I am going to have the same problem when I get there.

Slow going for me. For instance, it took me 15 minutes to install the rack, but 2 hours to move the boxes around enough to find the parts needed to install it. Then there is the one hour setup time before I can start work. It was even slower going before I bought a 10'x10' shade structure and put it up the driveway. Getting the frame into the driveway allowed me to work better and safer. Just takes time to put up and tear down the tent each day.

I just hope I can get enough done before winter sets in.

It's all part of the journey. I have what I feel is a good setup for this build. Have I seen better .... YES. Have I seen worse ... Yes. But we didn't start this journey because of the build space. We started this journey because of the build and the pride of "I built this!" when it's done. The trial and tribulations of your build space only shows your commitment to the journey! I for one admire that.

[rhk118]

Scott, great progress as usual! Engine looks great! And I appreciate what Skuzzy said...I spend more time finding parts and making sure I have all the correct everything on hand for 3 hours for what amounts to about 30 minutes of work on the car :rolleyes:

[Namrups]

New shoes arrived today!!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173339&d=1664932421

IT'S DONE! The cross brace has been cut and the shifter now fits!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173338&d=1664932421

[Namrups]

Need help in mounting transmission (pinion angle)

I am a real novice at this so any and all help accepted!

My understanding is rule 1: The angle of the output shaft on the diff should be equal but opposite to the output shaft of the transmission. In other words if the angle of the diff is a minus 8 degrees then the angle of the transmission should be plus 8 degrees. That would put the centerlines in parallel. Without going any further I fail rule 1 and now don't know what to do.

I will try to explain.

I have the IRS rear end and my assumption is the angle will never change nor can I do anything to change it. The angle of my diff is minus .8 degrees. (the output shaft points toward the ground) I measured this from the milled portion of the universal joint that is attached to the diff.

With my transmission mount sitting on the transmission crossmember my transmission output shaft measures plus 2.9 degrees. (the rear of the transmission points to the ground) This was measured from the crank pully on the front of the engine. The crank and the output shaft are in the same plane.

At this point my drive shaft measures minus 2.1 degrees. (the transmission side of the drive shaft is lower than the diff side)

In order to get the output shaft of the transmission parallel to the output shaft of the diff I have to raise the rear of the transmission until the angle reads plus .8 degrees.

When I jack the rear of the transmission as high as I can (actually hitting the chassis) the output shaft of the transmission reads zero degrees but the drive shaft now is at a plus 16.9 degrees!

I'm not an artist but here is a rough pic.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173423&d=1665072294

So where do I go from here?

[edwardb]

First, all the angle measurements are relative. Meaning the chassis itself may not be exactly level. And likely isn't. So you're looking at differences. Not absolute numbers. Just want to point that out. For mine, the IRS diff does indeed point down slightly in relation to the chassis. Was the same on my Roadster. So I think that's a standard position by FF. In my case, no shim was required for the T-56 and Coupe mounting plate. However, plate is mounted on the bottom (vs. top as instructions show) in order for shifter to not be against the transmission tunnel cover. In that position, my pinion angle is just under two degrees. With IRS, recommended that engine is 1 - 2 degrees down from the fixed diff. So I called it good. Not much I could do to make it different. 5,100 miles (and counting) and has worked fine. No sign of any issues. You'll get different opinions on here, but many don't measure the driveshaft angle. Yes, there are design limits to how much it can move. Don't know if mine exceeds that, but hasn't been a problem. For yours, not doubting you, but seems hard to believe the driveshaft angle could change by 19 degrees by moving the engine.

[Namrups]

Had a member of the Upstate Cobra Club stop by. As I noted the diff was at a -.8 degree angle. We raised the transmission until the transmission and cross brace lined up. Needed 3/8" worth of washers between the cross brace and the transmission mount. This gave me a +.8 on the drive shaft angle and a +2.4 degrees on the transmission. Locked it down there.

Mounted the wheels and dropped it off the jack stands. Officially a roller!!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173428&d=1665094890

[GT_Rich]

Another option would be engine drop mounts. Mounts that drop the engine 3/4" after common parts. In your case it would help the situation, and also help your soon to be hood clearance issue. Potential exhaust fitment issues unknown.

[Skuzzy]

You want the transmission output shaft angle and the differential yoke to be parallel to each other with a slight angle (2 degrees is good enough for this short driveshaft) of the drive shaft. The drive shaft angle can be in any direction.

[Namrups]

Another option would be engine drop mounts. Mounts that drop the engine 3/4" after common parts. In your case it would help the situation, and also help your soon to be hood clearance issue. Potential exhaust fitment issues unknown.

Dropping the engine would create different issues. My oil pan and the bottom of the transmission would then be below the frame.

[Namrups]

You want the transmission output shaft angle and the differential yoke to be parallel to each other with a slight angle (2 degrees is good enough for this short driveshaft) of the drive shaft. The drive shaft angle can be in any direction.

I am not the first to use a SBF in this car. I would guess I'm not the first to use the TKX either. There is simply no way to line up the shafts . There is a very small box of adjustments available to install and make everything fit. FF confirmed that I have the right parts. If there were major issue with the fitment of this combination the way I have it I'm sure it would have been noted long ago. These are FF parts not donor parts so I now have faith that it is a non issue now that everything fits except for the parallel shafts. Local builders have looked at it and have given it their blessing. Given the fact that the diff is fixed in place and can't move I'm still not convinced that they have to be. Once it's on the road I will know if I have any vibration or not. I know the TKX is new but from what I've been told it's the same, dimension wise, to the TKO when it comes to mounting. If anyone else out there has used a 351 with the TKX please chime in and let us know what you did.

[GT_Rich]

I am somewhat close to installing my 427/TKX combo. I have the same Champ pan that you have. I bought the pan and drop mounts from Gordon Levy and he promised the pan would sit about the frame rails. Would you mind putting a straight edge across the bottom of your chassis and measure up to the pan with standard mounts in place?

I think your compromise on angles is pretty good.

[Namrups]

I am somewhat close to installing my 427/TKX combo. I have the same Champ pan that you have. I bought the pan and drop mounts from Gordon Levy and he promised the pan would sit about the frame rails. Would you mind putting a straight edge across the bottom of your chassis and measure up to the pan with standard mounts in place?

I think your compromise on angles is pretty good.

As my engine sits right now the clearance on the pan is 3/8".
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173458&d=1665152473

The clearance on the spacer plate for the tranny is 1/8".
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173459&d=1665152473

[GT_Rich]

Thanks for the pics! That is not the result Gordon advertised to me when he sold me these parts. It looks like I will need to either shim up the solid drop mounts or go to the FFR provided option.

[Namrups]

Day 112 progress walk around

112 days post delivery. Working to get to a point I can attempt first start. Biggest holdup is headers. No word on these. Wiring is 70% laid out. Sniper is laid out. Radiator mocked up and plumbed. (Love the look of the cool tubes) Mike Forte sent the power steering reservoir. Should be here tomorrow. Laid out switch location on the dash.

https://youtu.be/GxkdGbnaNwQ

[edwardb]

Looking good. You're doing a great job. I know some of your wiring and such isn't finalized. But one observation. Make sure to get that front crossover convolute further away from your upper radiator tube. That tube gets very hot of course, and some convolute has a (disappointingly IMO) low melting point. Good luck with the upcoming first start. It's a huge milestone and quite exciting.

[Namrups]

Added a pressure gauge to the fuel feed line.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173721&d=1665700348

I have a couple of questions....

The RT fan wiring connection did not fit the fan connection. I rewired it with a weatherproof connector. There was also a third wire labeled "fan thermo sw". I believe this is a water temp sensor. The Sniper already has a temp sensor so do I need this one? I terminated it but left it in place. My next question is can I tap into the Sniper temp sensor to run my water temperature gauge or do I have to have a second separate sensor for the temp gauge?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173720&d=1665700348
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173725&d=1665700364

On the Ididit headlight dimmer unit, can someone verify for me that the yellow wire, labeled "headlight switch, needs to be mated to the brown dimmer switch wire. The RT diagrams do not show it that way but the diagram I downloaded for the Ididit site does.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173723&d=1665700348

Last question for today... I feel silly asking but ... How do I get the shaft to pull out of the headlight switch so that I can mount the switch? I tried pressing the spring button but nothing happened. I tried to undo the set screw but that didn't help either. I didn't want to put to much force on either not knowing the right procedure.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173722&d=1665700348

[Namrups]

Looking good. You're doing a great job. I know some of your wiring and such isn't finalized. But one observation. Make sure to get that front crossover convolute further away from your upper radiator tube. That tube gets very hot of course, and some convolute has a (disappointingly IMO) low melting point. Good luck with the upcoming first start. It's a huge milestone and quite exciting.

Thanks for that little tid-bit! Will fix that.

[burchfieldb]

Added a pressure gauge to the fuel feed line.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173721&d=1665700348

I have a couple of questions....

The RT fan wiring connection did not fit the fan connection. I rewired it with a weatherproof connector. There was also a third wire labeled "fan thermo sw". I believe this is a water temp sensor. The Sniper already has a temp sensor so do I need this one? I terminated it but left it in place. My next question is can I tap into the Sniper temp sensor to run my water temperature gauge or do I have to have a second separate sensor for the temp gauge?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173720&d=1665700348
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173725&d=1665700364

On the Ididit headlight dimmer unit, can someone verify for me that the yellow wire, labeled "headlight switch, needs to be mated to the brown dimmer switch wire. The RT diagrams do not show it that way but the diagram I downloaded for the Ididit site does.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173723&d=1665700348

Last question for today... I feel silly asking but ... How do I get the shaft to pull out of the headlight switch so that I can mount the switch? I tried pressing the spring button but nothing happened. I tried to undo the set screw but that didn't help either. I didn't want to put to much force on either not knowing the right procedure.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173722&d=1665700348

I had the same question about the temp sensor, I am running an Atomic 2 efi

[Jeff Kleiner]

Scott,
Pressing the little tab/button with the spring will allow you to pull the knob and shaft from the switch---but they aren't exactly a precision piece of machinery so it may take some wiggling and colorful language along with button pushing.

Use that fuel pressure gauge for your initial setup and tuning but please don't leave it in place long term. Those things are notorious for rupturing and have been responsible for a whole bunch of cars (including more than one FFR) burning to the ground.

Jeff

[JohnK]

This video from Ron Francis may be helpful for the headlight switch. They're definitely not a precision piece of equipment and will require some creative wiggling/swearing to take apart.


https://youtu.be/Qz6y-f3Vdd8

[Namrups]

Scott,
Pressing the little tab/button with the spring will allow you to pull the knob and shaft from the switch---but they aren't exactly a precision piece of machinery so it may take some wiggling and colorful language along with button pushing.

Use that fuel pressure gauge for your initial setup and tuning but please don't leave it in place long term. Those things are notorious for rupturing and have been responsible for a whole bunch of cars (including more than one FFR) burning to the ground.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff. I will keep trying. Thanks for reminding me about the gauge. I had read that somewhere. At my "advanced" age it's always good to get the memory banks tickled. I will note it on my white board.

[Namrups]

This video from Ron Francis may be helpful for the headlight switch. They're definitely not a precision piece of equipment and will require some creative wiggling/swearing to take apart.


https://youtu.be/Qz6y-f3Vdd8

Helpful video! Thanks John.

[edwardb]

I have a couple of questions....

The RT fan wiring connection did not fit the fan connection. I rewired it with a weatherproof connector. There was also a third wire labeled "fan thermo sw". I believe this is a water temp sensor. The Sniper already has a temp sensor so do I need this one? I terminated it but left it in place. My next question is can I tap into the Sniper temp sensor to run my water temperature gauge or do I have to have a second separate sensor for the temp gauge?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173720&d=1665700348
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173725&d=1665700364

On the Ididit headlight dimmer unit, can someone verify for me that the yellow wire, labeled "headlight switch, needs to be mated to the brown dimmer switch wire. The RT diagrams do not show it that way but the diagram I downloaded for the Ididit site does.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173723&d=1665700348

Can't answer a specific Sniper question (haven't installed one) but the "fan thermo sw" wire in the RF harness when grounded activates the fan relay in the RF panel which in turn powers the +12V feed to the cooling fan. Most temp senders close to ground when they reach their rated temperature, which turns on the fan.

For the Ididit headlight relay, that yellow wire has to go to a +12V feed from your headlight switch that's on when the headlight switch is on. Per my build notes, I wired to the RF harness LT BLUE HDLT SW -> DIM SW wire. It's purpose is to tell the module the headlight switch is on, so power the headlights on all the time and the dimmer signal switches from low to high. As opposed to no +12V on the yellow wire, which means the headlight switch is off and pressing the dimmer button activates the flash-to-pass function.

[GT_Rich]

Just watched your walk around video. Looking good. A couple questions related to aluminum panels. I thought the tall panels in the back corner of the cockpit had to be installed after the body was in place? You have them riveted now. Have you trialed that? Other question is related to the back aluminum upright panels (on the right side, it has the recess for fuel fill)...do people rivet thse to the down tubes on the chassis? If not, does the body pull them away from the tubes or does some type of gasket material need to go between tubes and panel?

[Namrups]

Just watched your walk around video. Looking good. A couple questions related to aluminum panels. I thought the tall panels in the back corner of the cockpit had to be installed after the body was in place? You have them riveted now. Have you trialed that? Other question is related to the back aluminum upright panels (on the right side, it has the recess for fuel fill)...do people rivet thse to the down tubes on the chassis? If not, does the body pull them away from the tubes or does some type of gasket material need to go between tubes and panel?

Two very good questions. I do not know the "right" answer for either one. All of these panels were in the car when it arrived and the body was removed with them in place. I am figuring that if I could remove the body with them in place I can replace the body with them in place. It may mean more than one try to mount the body if there is any trimming involved. Only time will tell.

I did not rivet the side panels to the down tube. There will be bulb seal on the top edge that should conform to the body so the body will dictate how the panels fit along the top edge.

I ask any previous builders to chime in here and give us both a heads up on how this all works.

[Namrups]

Can't answer a specific Sniper question (haven't installed one) but the "fan thermo sw" wire in the RF harness when grounded activates the fan relay in the RF panel which in turn powers the +12V feed to the cooling fan. Most temp senders close to ground when they reach their rated temperature, which turns on the fan.

For the Ididit headlight relay, that yellow wire has to go to a +12V feed from your headlight switch that's on when the headlight switch is on. Per my build notes, I wired to the RF harness LT BLUE HDLT SW -> DIM SW wire. It's purpose is to tell the module the headlight switch is on, so power the headlights on all the time and the dimmer signal switches from low to high. As opposed to no +12V on the yellow wire, which means the headlight switch is off and pressing the dimmer button activates the flash-to-pass function.

Thanks for your info on the Ididit switch. As for the fan thermo switch, if i'm understanding this, it needs to be attached to a temperature sensor located in the radiator so when the temperature of the water in the radiator reaches a certain level the fan comes on. I need to figure out how to wire that so that it works with the fan control of the Sniper. Any Sniper experts out there?

[GT_Rich]

Thanks for the reply. I follow your logic and my logic has been similar. However, my kit arrived without the cockpit corner panels. Apparently FFR installs those after the body is mounted and on mine they forgot. Had to ship them separately. So, I guess just something to be aware of. Maybe seasoned veterans will chime in.

[burchfieldb]

Thanks for your info on the Ididit switch. As for the fan thermo switch, if i'm understanding this, it needs to be attached to a temperature sensor located in the radiator so when the temperature of the water in the radiator reaches a certain level the fan comes on. I need to figure out how to wire that so that it works with the fan control of the Sniper. Any Sniper experts out there?
Scott,
I have an Atomic 2, which is similar to a Sniper. It uses the temperature sender in my engine block, since it is a Cleveland, but I believe yours is in your manifold. You then use the Sniper interface to set at what temperature your fan comes on. There is a fan output wire that comes from your Sniper harness and goes to your fan relay to turn it on.

[Namrups]

Scott,
I have an Atomic 2, which is similar to a Sniper. It uses the temperature sender in my engine block, since it is a Cleveland, but I believe yours is in your manifold. You then use the Sniper interface to set at what temperature your fan comes on. There is a fan output wire that comes from your Sniper harness and goes to your fan relay to turn it on.

Lying in bed last night I thought that might work. (I do that a lot... who needs sleep! :p) Thanks for verifying. Do you know if there is any way to tap that signal and use it for the dash temperature gauge? There are two fan output wires. Maybe I can use fan output #2???

[burchfieldb]

Lying in bed last night I thought that might work. (I do that a lot... who needs sleep! :p) Thanks for verifying. Do you know if there is any way to tap that signal and use it for the dash temperature gauge? There are two fan output wires. Maybe I can use fan output #2???

I called Holley and they highly recommend that we do not tap into the coolant sensor gauge wires for the efi. They would recommend using another sensor placed some where in the block for the dash gauge. I have my gauge on one of the extra water pump ports right now, but it always reads a lot hotter. I'm thinking of maybe using one of the coolant drain ports or figuring out a way to tap into the efi system, since they have seperate gauges available.

[Namrups]

I called Holley and they highly recommend that we do not tap into the coolant sensor gauge wires for the efi. They would recommend using another sensor placed some where in the block for the dash gauge. I have my gauge on one of the extra water pump ports right now, but it always reads a lot hotter. I'm thinking of maybe using one of the coolant drain ports or figuring out a way to tap into the efi system, since they have seperate gauges available.

What about adding a "T" in the location of the Holly sensor for the second sensor? That should give the same reading for both sensors.

[burchfieldb]

What about adding a "T" in the location of the Holly sensor for the second sensor? That should give the same reading for both sensors.

Yeah, I was just thinking the same thing.

[Blitzboy54]

What about adding a "T" in the location of the Holly sensor for the second sensor? That should give the same reading for both sensors.

Scott, don't do this. I tried it and here is what happens. Both sensors read cool. They have to be in the coolant flow to read accurately. What will happen (I promise) is your engine will not run right because temperature and O2 concentration are your only engine feedback sensors. If one is off so is the Sniper. If you want to control the fan with the Sniper (this is what I did) simply wire it in to "fan 1" and set the sniper to whatever you want the coolant temp upper and lower to be. The other option is to use the ground switch that came with the plug and either put it in the radiator or change your thermostat housing. Sniper is the easiest bet honestly.

Also, I have a spare set of Jpipes. I can come by this weekend.

[burchfieldb]

Scott, don't do this. I tried it and here is what happens. Both sensors read cool. They have to be in the coolant flow to read accurately. What will happen (I promise) is your engine will not run right because temperature and O2 concentration are your only engine feedback sensors. If one is off so is the Sniper. If you want to control the fan with the Sniper (this is what I did) simply wire it in to "fan 1" and set the sniper to whatever you want the coolant temp upper and lower to be. The other option is to use the ground switch that came with the plug and either put it in the radiator or change your thermostat housing. Sniper is the easiest bet honestly.

Also, I have a spare set of Jpipes. I can come by this weekend.

So it would be best to put the dash temperature gauge sending unit in another port on the block or the manifold?

[Namrups]

Scott, don't do this. I tried it and here is what happens. Both sensors read cool. They have to be in the coolant flow to read accurately. What will happen (I promise) is your engine will not run right because temperature and O2 concentration are your only engine feedback sensors. If one is off so is the Sniper. If you want to control the fan with the Sniper (this is what I did) simply wire it in to "fan 1" and set the sniper to whatever you want the coolant temp upper and lower to be. The other option is to use the ground switch that came with the plug and either put it in the radiator or change your thermostat housing. Sniper is the easiest bet honestly.

Also, I have a spare set of Jpipes. I can come by this weekend.

Would love to have you stop by this weekend.

[Namrups]

Scott, don't do this. I tried it and here is what happens. Both sensors read cool. They have to be in the coolant flow to read accurately. What will happen (I promise) is your engine will not run right because temperature and O2 concentration are your only engine feedback sensors. If one is off so is the Sniper. If you want to control the fan with the Sniper (this is what I did) simply wire it in to "fan 1" and set the sniper to whatever you want the coolant temp upper and lower to be. The other option is to use the ground switch that came with the plug and either put it in the radiator or change your thermostat housing. Sniper is the easiest bet honestly.

Also, I have a spare set of Jpipes. I can come by this weekend.

When you tried this did you make sure all of the air was out of the "T" fitting? The reason I ask is I heat my house with hot water in the old cast iron radiators. I had an issue one winter where the circulator pump died. I was unable to get a replacement pump for a couple of days. The boiler continued to heat the water and the hot water went thru out the house (both floors). It took longer for the upstairs to heat up but it did. If the "T" was full of water I can't see why it would not be at the same temp as the surrounding water was. Maybe I'm missing something.

The "J" pipes would at least let me do a first start when I'm ready. They won't fit my side pipes though.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Scott,
The probe end of the sensors really need to be in the flow of moving coolant and I think most times when a T is incorporated one or both can wind up in “deadheaded” coolant that isn’t moving which renders them inaccurate.

Jeff

[Namrups]

Scott,
The probe end of the sensors really need to be in the flow of moving coolant and I think most times when a T is incorporated one or both can wind up in “deadheaded” coolant that isn’t moving which renders them inaccurate.

Jeff

My only other choice is in the thermostat housing. Am I mistaken thinking that wont read anywhere close to the other one until after the thermostat opens?

[Blitzboy54]

My only other choice is in the thermostat housing. Am I mistaken thinking that wont read anywhere close to the other one until after the thermostat opens?

That's right, but if its to control your fan who cares the fan shouldn't come on until the thermostat is open anyway. If you use the sniper to control the fan it uses the same sensor as the sniper does. there is a wire in the main harness you tap the green fan switch wire to, no extra sensor is required. That completes the circuit. I also wired in a bypass switch that goes to the dash so I can force my fan on if there was ever a problem. Not required though. If you are stuck give me a call. I can swing out if you need me to before this weekend.

[Blitzboy54]

So it would be best to put the dash temperature gauge sending unit in another port on the block or the manifold?

Yes, both my sensors (one for the Sniper and one for the gauge) are in my intake manifold. I have 2 ports and on ones sensor in each. Both read the same give or take a degree. I use the Sniper to control the fan so no switch is needed. If I did use a switch I would have put it in the thermostat housing.

[Namrups]

34 degrees when I got up today!!! No kerosine available locally. Chilly day in the garage. Still managed to get a couple of things done.

My power steering pump needed a remote reservoir. I was able to get one from Mike Forte. It arrived over the weekend. The biggest issue is the steering shaft is trying to take up the same space as the power steering lines need!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173882&d=1666038273

I think using a 90 degree fitting on top of the pump ...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173880&d=1666038252

And mounting the reservoir here ...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173881&d=1666038252

I can use the two FF supplied hoses. That would only leave the reservoir feed hose with the 10an fittings that I will have to source. That line will have to snake around the steering shaft. Maybe using 45 degree fittings will help.

I did work out a "T" setup for the water temperature sensors but given the recent recommendations I will undo it.

[Namrups]

Also made up a mounting plate for the overflow reservoir using 1/8" aluminum.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173879&d=1666038252

This looks like a good spot to put it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173878&d=1666038252
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173877&d=1666038252

[Namrups]

Steering rack question

The steering rack has two plugs. One blue and one red. Can anyone confirm, for me, that the red is the high pressure port from the pump and the blue is the low pressure port back to the reservoir. Thanks!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173208&d=1664630502

[edwardb]

Steering rack question

The steering rack has two plugs. One blue and one red. Can anyone confirm, for me, that the red is the high pressure port from the pump and the blue is the low pressure port back to the reservoir. Thanks!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173208&d=1664630502

The lower (smaller) connection is the inlet. Upper connection (larger) is the outlet.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/PSrackfittings.webp?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/PSrackfittings.webp?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[Namrups]

The lower (smaller) connection is the inlet. Upper connection (larger) is the outlet.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/PSrackfittings.webp?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/PSrackfittings.webp?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Thanks Paul!

[Yellville]

Thanks for the reply. I follow your logic and my logic has been similar. However, my kit arrived without the cockpit corner panels. Apparently FFR installs those after the body is mounted and on mine they forgot. Had to ship them separately. So, I guess just something to be aware of. Maybe seasoned veterans will chime in.

My kit also arrived without the cockpit corner panels.

[MetalManiac]

In the build manual, it says the 3 sheet metal parts that go on AFTER the body are the 2 cockpit corners (the pieces that tuck into the outer corners behind the seats with the pointy tops) and the vertical tail fin at the back of the trunk. The side panels that go along the trunk can be riveted in before the body goes on.


I'm also using a TXK (paired to a 302) and also cut away the cross-brace so I could mount the shifter in the rear. I'm making my own gear lever that will angle forward like the old Cobras. I dislike the short vertical shifter in the Daytonas.

[edwardb]

In the build manual, it says the 3 sheet metal parts that go on AFTER the body are the 2 cockpit corners (the pieces that tuck into the outer corners behind the seats with the pointy tops) and the vertical tail fin at the back of the trunk. The side panels that go along the trunk can be riveted in before the body goes on...

Actually, there are a bunch more parts than that added after the body goes on. So many I made a list along with the page number in the manual. My manual is REVISION 4B, which is a couple years old. Suspect there's a newer one now. Maybe they changed the sequence on those side panels. A number of builders have commented they can be installed before the body is put on. I didn't try and it was easy enough to add them later. Builder's choice.

19. Hatch side aluminum (with bulb seal) lower flange goes under the floor aluminum, side panel touches the side of the floor (480)
20. Firewall extension (with bulb seal) (486)
21. Inner firewall extension (with bulb seal) (487)
22. Cockpit outside corners (with bulb seal) (488)
23. Outside nose mount cover (489)
24. Inside shock tower cover (490)
25. Fuel tank access covers (491)
26. Hatch area rear wall (with bulb seal) (492)
27. Aluminum Splash guards Front wheel, rear inside (512)
28. Front wheel rear (514)
29. Front upper splash panels (with bulb seal) (514)
30. Rear wheel splash panels rear (with bulb seal) (515)
31. Rear wheel splash panels front (with bulb seal) (not in manual, added part)

[Namrups]

Actually, there are a bunch more parts than that added after the body goes on. So many I made a list along with the page number in the manual. My manual is REVISION 4B, which is a couple years old. Suspect there's a newer one now. Maybe they changed the sequence on those side panels. A number of builders have commented they can be installed before the body is put on. I didn't try and it was easy enough to add them later. Builder's choice.

19. Hatch side aluminum (with bulb seal) lower flange goes under the floor aluminum, side panel touches the side of the floor (480)
20. Firewall extension (with bulb seal) (486)
21. Inner firewall extension (with bulb seal) (487)
22. Cockpit outside corners (with bulb seal) (488)
23. Outside nose mount cover (489)
24. Inside shock tower cover (490)
25. Fuel tank access covers (491)
26. Hatch area rear wall (with bulb seal) (492)
27. Aluminum Splash guards Front wheel, rear inside (512)
28. Front wheel rear (514)
29. Front upper splash panels (with bulb seal) (514)
30. Rear wheel splash panels rear (with bulb seal) (515)
31. Rear wheel splash panels front (with bulb seal) (not in manual, added part)

The list is almost the same in my manual it just starts on page 507. (Revision 4R April 2021)

[Yellville]

The list is almost the same in my manual it just starts on page 507. (Revision 4R April 2021)

I have manual Revision 4Q, October 2020 and these parts start on page 512.

[Yellville]

I ordered a digital copy of the Coupe manual on 11/27/2021 and received Revision 4R, April 2021. When I received my kit on 8/15/2022 it came with the older version, Revision 4Q, October 2020. I suppose they had a bunch of them already printed up so I got the older version (4R), even though it had been updated with a newer version (4Q) 18 months prior.


Of course, you probably wouldn't want a manual that is a lot newer than your kit since things change with the kit (this is the opposite of my situation). I imagine they update the digital copy more often than the paper copy, which is logical.


Just to make sure I have the latest version I just purchased the digital version again just now and received the same Revision 4R that I purchased back on 11/27/2021. I will do a comparison of 4Q and 4R to make sure I am following instructions more appropriate for my kit.

[Namrups]

I ordered a digital copy of the Coupe manual on 11/27/2021 and received Revision 4R, April 2021. When I received my kit on 8/15/2022 it came with the older version, Revision 4Q, October 2020. I suppose they had a bunch of them already printed up so I got the older version (4R), even though it had been updated with a newer version (4Q) 18 months prior.


Of course, you probably wouldn't want a manual that is a lot newer than your kit since things change with the kit (this is the opposite of my situation). I imagine they update the digital copy more often than the paper copy, which is logical.


Just to make sure I have the latest version I just purchased the digital version again just now and received the same Revision 4R that I purchased back on 11/27/2021. I will do a comparison of 4Q and 4R to make sure I am following instructions more appropriate for my kit.

Anything to make things more confusion than they already are! Keeps us first timers on our toes!

[Nigel Allen]

Manual revision 4Q is an abbreviation for F*** you where I come from. I wonder if it was printed April 1st?

[Namrups]

Manual revision 4Q is an abbreviation for F*** you where I come from. I wonder if it was printed April 1st?

It is what it is .... I knew this going in. Still, as a first time builder I couldn't do it with out it. Hell, part of the fun is figuring **** out.:p

[Yellville]

It is what it is .... I knew this going in. Still, as a first time builder I couldn't do it with out it. Hell, part of the fun is figuring **** out.:p

I actually think the manual is pretty good and have been following it closely. Currently on page 202.

[Namrups]

Quick question about reverse lights.

I have a TKX transmission. I am planning on using LED backup lights. I will be purchasing the backup harness that attaches to the transmission. Am I correct that I need to power either side of the TKS reverse switch. From there to the backup light(s) then to chassis ground. Because I'm going to use LED do I have to add anything to the circuit?

[Skuzzy]

Check the input voltage for the backup lights. If they are 12V, then the lights already have a ballast resistor in the path. If the voltage is less than 12V, you will need to install a ballast resistor.

Pretty sure aftermarket LED systems used in the automotive field already have a built-in ballast resistor, but if the ones you are using do not, then you will need to calculate the ohms for the ballast resistor and install it. For that you will need the voltage and current requirements of the LED. Use the following formula to calculate the correct resistor value.

Where:
V = supply voltage.
VL = LED voltage requirement.
I = LED current requirement.
R = ballast resistor value.

R = (V - VL)/I

If a ballast resistor of the above calculated size is not available, use the next largest resistor size. Do not use a smaller resistor or you will cut the life of the LED by a substantial amount.

[Namrups]

Check the input voltage for the backup lights. If they are 12V, then the lights already have a ballast resistor in the path. If the voltage is less than 12V, you will need to install a ballast resistor.

Pretty sure aftermarket LED systems used in the automotive field already have a built-in ballast resistor, but if the ones you are using do not, then you will need to calculate the ohms for the ballast resistor and install it. For that you will need the voltage and current requirements of the LED. Use the following formula to calculate the correct resistor value.

Where:
V = supply voltage.
VL = LED voltage requirement.
I = LED current requirement.
R = ballast resistor value.

R = (V - VL)/I

If a ballast resistor of the above calculated size is not available, use the next largest resistor size. Do not use a smaller resistor or you will cut the life of the LED by a substantial amount.

Thanks for that explanation! If the resister is required should it go between the fuse box and the transmission or between the transmission and the lights? Does it matter? Does it matter if there are two lights (That's the plan)?

[edwardb]

Quick question about reverse lights.

I have a TKX transmission. I am planning on using LED backup lights. I will be purchasing the backup harness that attaches to the transmission. Am I correct that I need to power either side of the TKS reverse switch. From there to the backup light(s) then to chassis ground. Because I'm going to use LED do I have to add anything to the circuit?

You need to confirm your LED backup lights are rated for 12V input (likely). If so, no resistors required. You should also confirm the current draw. As per most LED's, likely very low so nothing really special required to wire. I have two Watsons Streetworks L96WCL white LED backup lights (Maxxima brand) on my Coupe and power them with the RF panel 10 amp radio circuit. They only draw a fraction of that. The switch on the TKX appears to be the same one as on my T56. Closed when the transmission is in reverse. Open the rest of the time. I extended the ignition switched and fused +12V radio circuit wire to one side of the switch. Extended the other side to the back where it's connected to the plus side of the two LED lights. The other sides grounded. Circuit is closed when in reverse which switches on the lights. Simple and has worked fine for the several years it's been on the road.

I didn't find then -- and can't find now -- any description of the current limits for the switch in the trans. You could put a relay in the circuit. The GM automatic transmission in my truck build very specifically said not to power the backup lights through the switch and that a relay was required. Which is what I did. But don't think that's necessary in this case with LED's. Some also switch the ground side. That's possible too. But suggest keeping it simple as I described. It works.

[Skuzzy]

Thanks for that explanation! If the resister is required should it go between the fuse box and the transmission or between the transmission and the lights? Does it matter? Does it matter if there are two lights (That's the plan)?

If the ballast is needed it should go in between the lights and any path to the lights. Each light would have its own ballast resistor.

[Namrups]

You need to confirm your LED backup lights are rated for 12V input (likely). If so, no resistors required. You should also confirm the current draw. As per most LED's, likely very low so nothing really special required to wire. I have two Watsons Streetworks L96WCL white LED backup lights (Maxxima brand) on my Coupe and power them with the RF panel 10 amp radio circuit. They only draw a fraction of that. The switch on the TKX appears to be the same one as on my T56. Closed when the transmission is in reverse. Open the rest of the time. I extended the ignition switched and fused +12V radio circuit wire to one side of the switch. Extended the other side to the back where it's connected to the plus side of the two LED lights. The other sides grounded. Circuit is closed when in reverse which switches on the lights. Simple and has worked fine for the several years it's been on the road.

I didn't find then -- and can't find now -- any description of the current limits for the switch in the trans. You could put a relay in the circuit. The GM automatic transmission in my truck build very specifically said not to power the backup lights through the switch and that a relay was required. Which is what I did. But don't think that's necessary in this case with LED's. Some also switch the ground side. That's possible too. But suggest keeping it simple as I described. It works.

Thanks Paul!

[burchfieldb]

Quick question about reverse lights.

I have a TKX transmission. I am planning on using LED backup lights. I will be purchasing the backup harness that attaches to the transmission. Am I correct that I need to power either side of the TKS reverse switch. From there to the backup light(s) then to chassis ground. Because I'm going to use LED do I have to add anything to the circuit?

What are you using for your reverse lights? I am curious to see what others are using.

[Namrups]

Had a delivery form FF today!!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174275&d=1667053160

[GT_Rich]

Nice! I have a package due tomorrow. I bet it's the same thing. I wonder why they ship those with 4 bolt flange adapters.

[Namrups]

What are you using for your reverse lights? I am curious to see what others are using.

I have a pair of Maxxima 4" low profile leds. (pt# m42365) Not sure if I'm going to use them. They look a little big. May try to find the same ones that Paul is using.

[Namrups]

Nice! I have a package due tomorrow. I bet it's the same thing. I wonder why they ship those with 4 bolt flange adapters.

I had the same question. They do look great on the car though!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174286&d=1667082342

[Namrups]

Day 135

Been working all week to prepare for first start. Verified the Sniper is live and controlling both the fuel pump and the fan. Verified that the engine will turn over when the key is turned to the start position. Plumed and filled radiator. Plumed and filled power steering. Added 5 gallons of gas to tank. No leaks so far. 50-60 PSI of fuel pressure at the Sniper inlet. Clutch safety switch works. Using the keyed ignition switch for now. Will switch to the DGD later. No go-kart as I'm waiting for my throttle linkage. Due next week maybe. A number of Upstate Cobra Club members will be joining me today. Big day!!

Had our own car show today!

https://youtu.be/dbQwCcPePLY

[Namrups]

First Start try 1

FAILED!!! The engine turned over but we had no spark. After testing a number of connections and numerous discussions we realized that the coil had no power going to the positive terminal. That's on me as a newbe. I don't know what I don't know. There was nothing in the Sniper installation manual nor the RF manual that stated a power wire needed to be attached to the positive side of the coil. We attached a jumper wire from the orange ignition wire on the key switch to the positive side of the coil.

First Start try 2

https://youtu.be/F7B0YKJt8Vs

How sweet it is. Two small water leaks that stopped themselves. Brought the temp to 195 and the fan kicked in and the temp came right back down. Milestone accomplished!! Thanks to the group for their aid is making this happen!!

[Jeff Kleiner]

My slow internet connection won’t let me see the video but I believe ya’ when you say it ran! Big time congratulations on the milestone Scott :D

Jeff

[Namrups]

My slow internet connection won’t let me see the video but I believe ya’ when you say it ran! Big time congratulations on the milestone Scott :D

Jeff

Thanks Jeff! Next step is go-kart.

[edwardb]

Very nice! Congratulations.

[burchfieldb]

Looks and sounds amazing, congratulations! I can't wait to get mine to that stage, you are way ahead of me. I just got my hardware pack and have not been able to really do anything but sheet metal.

[rhk118]

Sounds and looks great Scott! Congratulations!

[Namrups]

Very nice! Congratulations.

Thank you Sir!! You have been a big part of this! Thanks for all of your help!

[Namrups]

Sounds and looks great Scott! Congratulations!

Thank you! Sent chills up my spine when it kicked off. A dream I have always had closer to reality!

[460.465USMC]

Congrats, Scott! That's music to my ears. Big milestone reached.

[Namrups]

Congrats, Scott! That's music to my ears. Big milestone reached.

Thanks Chris! Big step.

[Skuzzy]

Congratulations! During a build there are always moments of satisfaction, but I do not think anything compares to the first successful firing up of the engine. Well done Sir, well done.

[Namrups]

Congratulations! During a build there are always moments of satisfaction, but I do not think anything compares to when you first successful firing up of the engine. Well done Sir, well done.

Thank you Sir! You are correct. I went into this not knowing if I would be able to accomplish it or end up having it sit in my garage unfinished because it was beyond me. Hearing that engine start gave me such pride in myself and gave me the confidence that I will complete this build.

I had a local coupe builder stop by to check out the progress and his posted comment was "Had a chance to get out for a while today. Stopped by Scott's. All I can say is WOW. I've seen a bunch of builds but this one is world class. No expense spared. all the bells and whistles, all meticulously assembled." To hear that kind of praise is so very satisfying and very humbling.

[Skuzzy]

This will be project #43 for me and my first Factory Five, as well as the third personal project. I can tell you that first engine start still feels like it did when I did the first project. I thought this would be my last project, but Factory Five went and stretched the 35 Truck, and the Wife is not going to rest until I get that built for her. So #44 will be the last.

At nearly 70 years old, it is time to enjoy the fruits of my labor.

[Namrups]

Courtesy Lights

Continuing my wiring brings me to my courtesy lights. I pulled out the FF supplied LED strip and was not very impressed at first glance. I have been looking at what others have used but until I get the A/C - heater installed I'm not sure where to mount anything. Decided to cut the FF strip in half and to mount it figuring I can replace it at a later time. I have to say I am very surprised and impressed at the amount of light given off by this small strip. May just leave it!

DS
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174645&d=1667915301

PS
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174646&d=1667915301

[Namrups]

Decided to mount the trunk panel today. Siliconed all surfaces and laid the panel in place. Grabbed the Milwaukee M12 battery riveter (that's less than a year old). After a hand full of rivets the battery went dead. Grabbed the fresh battery from the charger and lo and behold it was also dead. No lights on the charger. Nothing. Have no idea what happened to the charger. Ran to the local Ace and bought a Channel Lock hand riveter. Worked fine except for the arthritis in my hands.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174654&d=1667943864

[rhk118]

Scott, do you need an M12 charger? I have an extra, happy to send it. Save those thumb joints brother.

[Namrups]

Scott, do you need an M12 charger? I have an extra, happy to send it. Save those thumb joints brother.

PM'd you

[Namrups]

One for the electrical experts

The RF electrical installation manual shows cutting the relay wire for the fuel pump if using EFI.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174684&d=1668014459

I have not done this. As seen in my recent first start video the engine started and ran fine. Is cutting this wire a requirement and if I don't cut it what do I risk?

[edwardb]

One for the electrical experts

The RF electrical installation manual shows cutting the relay wire for the fuel pump if using EFI.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174684&d=1668014459

I have not done this. As seen in my recent first start video the engine started and ran fine. Is cutting this wire a requirement and if I don't cut it what do I risk?

You only do that if you want to use the RF fuel pump circuit including the relay, inertia switch, and +12V wire back to the fuel pump. If you've already wired directly to the fuel pump from your Holly Sniper EFI system, technically not required to run your fuel pump. Only caution I'll cite is whether you have an inertia switch with your setup. It's a safety function that shuts down the fuel pump in the event of a hard collision or rollover. The RF fuel pump circuit wires that relay to ground through the inertia switch. If the switch opens, ground is broken, and the fuel pump circuit's power is cut off. Something to think about.

[Namrups]

You only do that if you want to use the RF fuel pump circuit including the relay, inertia switch, and +12V wire back to the fuel pump. If you've already wired directly to the fuel pump from your Holly Sniper EFI system, technically not required to run your fuel pump. Only caution I'll cite is whether you have an inertia switch with your setup. It's a safety function that shuts down the fuel pump in the event of a hard collision or rollover. The RF fuel pump circuit wires that relay to ground through the inertia switch. If the switch opens, ground is broken, and the fuel pump circuit's power is cut off. Something to think about.

If I wanted to use the RF circuit with the inertia switch where would I connect the wire from the Sniper to? Right now I have cut the tan wire that ran from the fuse block to the fuel pump and attached the blue wire from the Sniper to the fuel pump. In order for the inertia switch to work should I cut the wire shown in the picture and reattach the tan wire from the fuse block to the Sniper blue/RF tan going to the pump? This has got me somewhat confused.

[edwardb]

If I wanted to use the RF circuit with the inertia switch where would I connect the wire from the Sniper to? Right now I have cut the tan wire that ran from the fuse block to the fuel pump and attached the blue wire from the Sniper to the fuel pump. In order for the inertia switch to work should I cut the wire shown in the picture and reattach the tan wire from the fuse block to the Sniper blue/RF tan going to the pump? This has got me somewhat confused.

If you (1) cut the shorter brown wire from the fuel pump fuse to the relay, (2) attached the Sniper blue wire to the brown wire from the relay (not the one from the fuse), and (3) used the RF fuel pump wire to the back of the car and plugged onto the in-tank fuel pump, the RF inertia switch is functional. It means the actual +12V to run the fuel pump is coming from your Sniper harness but routed through the RF wire to the back. With +12V on the red wire to the RF relay from the panel, and the relay ground going through the inertia switch, as long as the inertia switch is closed the relay will be energized (e.g. closed) and complete the circuit to the fuel pump. Easy enough to test. Shake or bump the inertia switch so that the button pops up. Your fuel pump shouldn't run with the key on until you push the button back down. Assuming it works properly, the inertia switch needs to be mounted where you can reasonably access it with the button up.

BTW, I'm a little breaking my own rules here. I haven't installed a Holley Sniper system. So giving this response only by looking at the Holly instructions. Seems straightforward, but no hands-on experience. The Sniper system is popular enough that hopefully others will chime in and either confirm or correct what I'm saying.

[Namrups]

If you (1) cut the shorter brown wire from the fuel pump fuse to the relay, (2) attached the Sniper blue wire to the brown wire from the relay (not the one from the fuse), and (3) used the RF fuel pump wire to the back of the car and plugged onto the in-tank fuel pump, the RF inertia switch is functional. It means the actual +12V to run the fuel pump is coming from your Sniper harness but routed through the RF wire to the back. With +12V on the red wire to the RF relay from the panel, and the relay ground going through the inertia switch, as long as the inertia switch is closed the relay will be energized (e.g. closed) and complete the circuit to the fuel pump. Easy enough to test. Shake or bump the inertia switch so that the button pops up. Your fuel pump shouldn't run with the key on until you push the button back down. Assuming it works properly, the inertia switch needs to be mounted where you can reasonably access it with the button up.

BTW, I'm a little breaking my own rules here. I haven't installed a Holley Sniper system. So giving this response only by looking at the Holly instructions. Seems straightforward, but no hands-on experience. The Sniper system is popular enough that hopefully others will chime in and either confirm or correct what I'm saying.

This makes sense to me now. I was confusing myself as I was looking at the PDF version of the RF harness installation instructions that shows a different picture and trying to match that to the actual RF manual and the Sniper diagram. As always, Thank You Sir!

[Namrups]

Working towards first go-kart. Would still like to complete that before there is snow to contend with. It did snow here Tues. night but it all melted Thurs.

Fixed the wiring issue noted above.

I was using the kit supplied ignition switch for first start and have switched that over to the Digital Guard Dawg push button system. All wired and tested. Good to go!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175021&d=1668712071

Also spent some time cleaning up the wiring behind the dash. Not as pretty as some. Still a ways to go.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175023&d=1668712071

Ordered 1/8" Landau foam for the dash. That should be in early next week. Don't need that for go-kart but will be nice to complete. Mike Forte has told me the throttle linkage is complete and I should be seeing that soon also. Need that for go-karting!

Biggest issue right now is heat for the garage. I had been using a kerosene heater but it is in very short supply here and prices have gone crazy. Lowes has a 2 1/2 gal plastic container for $36.00! Do the math ... that's over $14.00 a gal! Given that, I have recently switched over to propane. I have purchased two 2 - headed propane heaters and 30 pound tanks. Works as well as the kerosene heater, portable - I can move them around the garage easier and quieter. Works for me.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175022&d=1668712071

Now that the weather has gotten colder I still plan on continuing to work on the car every day. Just not as long each session.

[Namrups]

Things don't always go as planned!

There have been numerous posts and threads about the challenges of building these cars. They are not "Leggo" kits. At times it takes creativity to find a solution to a problem. There is no more truth in that statement then when "things don't always go a planned".

It's no secret that I have modeled my build after Paul's (EdwardB's) coupe build. I have used a number of the same upgrades and custom parts that he used. One such item was the Corbeau Evolution X seats. One of the first items I ordered after ordering the coupe was the seats. I received them before the coupe and had them put away.

The plan was to mount them the identical way that Paul mounted his including the 1" high slider that he used so that I could eventually teach my daughter how to drive the car. She is shorter than I am and will need to move the seat closer to the pedals. Knowing I ordered the identical part numbers I didn't bother double checking anything earlier in the build. Why would I? It's the same stuff!

Well things don't always go as planned!!!

Getting ready to go-kart, in the near future, I decided to see if I could install the seats temporarily. I made up a pattern of the floor so that I could mark the locations for the mounting bolts. I attached a slider to one of the seats and worked it onto the car. Once in the car something just didn't seem right. I played around with it for a while and then decided to refresh my memory by looking back over Paul's installation.

What I found was my seats do not fit the coupe the same way they fit Paul's coupe. Corbeau has either redesigned the sliders or has switched suppliers. The new design raises the seat almost 1 3/4" above the floor. Paul's sliders are only 1". This puts the top of the seat 3/4" higher. Paul noted in his thread that the seat top rests against the rollbar. Given this extra height, mine really do. That area of the seat is highly padded and it should not effect anything other than rubbing if the seat is moved back or forth. The bigger issue is the fact that the seat itself does not fit between the seatbelt tabs. In Paul's build he mentioned that the seats fit between the tabs and he was able to slide the seat back towards the back panel. I can not do that. Either FF moved the location of the tabs or Corbeau widened the seat.

I still think I will be able to mount the seats with the sliders but it will be a tighter fit than I was expecting. I will post my solution as I figure it out.

My reason for this post was threefold.
First I wanted to point out that same part numbers may not mean the same parts. I have talked with Paul and verified we used the same part numbers.
Second was the fact that I made a first time builders mistake and took for granted that my parts were going to fit the same way as others posted. I should have verified my seats fit much earlier. I would have had other solutions such as moving the tabs.
Thirdly I wanted to point out that even the best plans sometimes go south. That is all part of these builds. It's our ability and the help of forum members and friends that can take something that is just not right and make "adjustments" to correct the issue and make it work.

Thanks to all of the forum members and my local friends that have helped my in my build!

[slarson]

Scott, thanks for the heads up. I have the same seats and sliders. I have not test fit them in the car yet.
I will see how they fit in mine this weekend, that is just about next on the to do list anyway.

Scott

[Namrups]

Scott, thanks for the heads up. I have the same seats and sliders. I have not test fit them in the car yet.
I will see how they fit in mine this weekend, that is just about next on the to do list anyway.

Scott

Let me know what you find!

[slarson]

Scott, I didn't have a lot of time today. I'm having to replace a fence that Hurricane Nicole decided to knock down a few weeks ago (still not sure why she didn't like my fence).

The first thing I noticed on the slides is the two washers and the large cap screw that is holding the slides to the mount. So I removed the washers and replaced the cap screws with some pan head screws I had lying around. That got the slide height down to 1 5/16. My thought is to use a flat head screw that is countersunk into the base and that will get the height down to about 1 3/16"
I also flipped the slide release handle over so it's slightly angled up instead of down.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175230&d=1668903598

It seems like my seat is hitting the inside seat belt mount, the outside diagonal bar and the head rest hits the roll bar.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175215&d=1668903293

And the seat also seems to be angled to the outside.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175218&d=1668903293

I don't like how the inner seat belt mount is behind the seat so the first thing I am going to try is to remove it. I will move it to the trans tunnel side of the aluminum panel.

[Namrups]

Scott, I didn't have a lot of time today. I'm having to replace a fence that Hurricane Nicole decided to knock down a few weeks ago (still not sure why she didn't like my fence).

The first thing I noticed on the slides is the two washers and the large cap screw that is holding the slides to the mount. So I removed the washers and replaced the cap screws with some pan head screws I had lying around. That got the slide height down to 1 5/16. My thought is to use a flat head screw that is countersunk into the base and that will get the height down to about 1 3/16"
I also flipped the slide release handle over so it's slightly angled up instead of down.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175230&d=1668903598

It seems like my seat is hitting the inside seat belt mount, the outside diagonal bar and the head rest hits the roll bar.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175215&d=1668903293

And the seat also seems to be angled to the outside.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175218&d=1668903293

I don't like how the inner seat belt mount is behind the seat so the first thing I am going to try is to remove it. I will move it to the trans tunnel side of the aluminum panel.

Keep me in the loop. I've already fastened my panels in here so moving the tabs is not going to happen.

[Bob Brandle]

Here's some photos of my Gen 3 Coupe and mounting of the same Corbeau seats that you're mounting.
I'll give due credit to Edwardb / Paul Borror who also mounted these Corbeau seats in his Gen 3 Coupe and provided many insights in his Coupe's build thread. Paul provided exceedingly helpful directly overhead photos of his seat mounts laying in their final place on the chassis. I used and verified those with my own seats and mounts and then took my own photos of the seat mounts in their final placement in my car. I created (and inserted below) a 4-photo collage of the seat mounts in the car both with the sheet metal laying in place and without the sheet metal. One key aspect is determining how/where to bolt the seat mount to the chassis. I've used 4 bolts with three mounted to the under-seat steel floor and a 4th thru one of the chassis frame tubes. The bolt heads face towards the ground and they feed up thru floating nutserts that are mounted in the seat mount. that 4th nut must be drilled and mounted yourself. the others are OK as is in the seat mount.

Luckily, I was able to mount the driver's seat fairly straight in the chassis, with all aspects clearing the structure of the car. The top outside corner of the driver's seat headrest does make slight contact with the closest roll cage tube, but I affixed a small piece of Velcro (the fuzzy piece) to the tube with the fuzzy side against the seat vinyl. That should prevent wear and any squeaking. Regarding the passenger seat, it had to deal with a slightly different cabin structure and had to be mounted at a slight angle, but that shouldn't be too objectionable. Of course, I had to determine the thread size and lengths of the SS button head mounting bolts to be used. I also used a few hardened steel washers between the floor and seat mount to account for any gaps.

Look very closely for positioning and alignments, as well as Edwardb's helpful photos inside the seat mounts;

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113400&d=1567208523


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175232&d=1668924280


I believe that I did have to bend the outer seat belt attachment tab slightly outward to fully clear the seat.

My Coupe is at the painter right now, so I can't make any further checks or new photos.

I hope that helps.

Bob

[edwardb]

Here's some photos of my Gen 3 Coupe and mounting of the same Corbeau seats that you're mounting.
I'll give due credit to Edwardb / Paul Borror who also mounted these Corbeau seats in his Gen 3 Coupe and provided many insights in his Coupe's build thread. Paul provided exceedingly helpful directly overhead photos of his seat mounts laying in their final place on the chassis. I used and verified those with my own seats and mounts and then took my own photos of the seat mounts in their final placement in my car. I created (and inserted below) a 4-photo collage of the seat mounts in the car both with the sheet metal laying in place and without the sheet metal. One key aspect is determining how/where to bolt the seat mount to the chassis. I've used 4 bolts with three mounted to the under-seat steel floor and a 4th thru one of the chassis frame tubes. The bolt heads face towards the ground and they feed up thru floating nutserts that are mounted in the seat mount. that 4th nut must be drilled and mounted yourself. the others are OK as is in the seat mount.

Luckily, I was able to mount the driver's seat fairly straight in the chassis, with all aspects clearing the structure of the car. The top outside corner of the driver's seat headrest does make slight contact with the closest roll cage tube, but I affixed a small piece of Velcro (the fuzzy piece) to the tube with the fuzzy side against the seat vinyl. That should prevent wear and any squeaking. Regarding the passenger seat, it had to deal with a slightly different cabin structure and had to be mounted at a slight angle, but that shouldn't be too objectionable. Of course, I had to determine the thread size and lengths of the SS button head mounting bolts to be used. I also used a few hardened steel washers between the floor and seat mount to account for any gaps.

Look very closely for positioning and alignments, as well as Edwardb's helpful photos inside the seat mounts;
I believe that I did have to bend the outer seat belt attachment tab slightly outward to fully clear the seat.

My Coupe is at the painter right now, so I can't make any further checks or new photos.

I hope that helps.

Bob

Nice write-up Bob. And good job with the graphics. Clearly Corbeau significantly changed the slider brackets part number C22059 I purchased and installed in 2018. The same exact part number today has locks on both sliders (versus only one side before), a different handle, larger frame, and is slightly taller. I'm glad to see you could still make them work since several have chosen them based on my build thread.

I'm still not clear if the seats themselves have changed. I'd be surprised if they did since Corbeau markets them for the C5 and C6 Corvette. But anything's possible. Mine fit between the seat belt tabs with just enough room to attach the seat belts. Tight but workable. And yes they contact the roll bar cage (which I noted in my build thread) but hasn't been a problem for us. We rarely if ever slide the seats and with three seasons of driving haven't heard any sounds or shown any wear.

[Namrups]

Here's some photos of my Gen 3 Coupe and mounting of the same Corbeau seats that you're mounting.
I'll give due credit to Edwardb / Paul Borror who also mounted these Corbeau seats in his Gen 3 Coupe and provided many insights in his Coupe's build thread. Paul provided exceedingly helpful directly overhead photos of his seat mounts laying in their final place on the chassis. I used and verified those with my own seats and mounts and then took my own photos of the seat mounts in their final placement in my car. I created (and inserted below) a 4-photo collage of the seat mounts in the car both with the sheet metal laying in place and without the sheet metal. One key aspect is determining how/where to bolt the seat mount to the chassis. I've used 4 bolts with three mounted to the under-seat steel floor and a 4th thru one of the chassis frame tubes. The bolt heads face towards the ground and they feed up thru floating nutserts that are mounted in the seat mount. that 4th nut must be drilled and mounted yourself. the others are OK as is in the seat mount.

Luckily, I was able to mount the driver's seat fairly straight in the chassis, with all aspects clearing the structure of the car. The top outside corner of the driver's seat headrest does make slight contact with the closest roll cage tube, but I affixed a small piece of Velcro (the fuzzy piece) to the tube with the fuzzy side against the seat vinyl. That should prevent wear and any squeaking. Regarding the passenger seat, it had to deal with a slightly different cabin structure and had to be mounted at a slight angle, but that shouldn't be too objectionable. Of course, I had to determine the thread size and lengths of the SS button head mounting bolts to be used. I also used a few hardened steel washers between the floor and seat mount to account for any gaps.

Look very closely for positioning and alignments, as well as Edwardb's helpful photos inside the seat mounts;

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113400&d=1567208523


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175232&d=1668924280


I believe that I did have to bend the outer seat belt attachment tab slightly outward to fully clear the seat.

My Coupe is at the painter right now, so I can't make any further checks or new photos.

I hope that helps.

Bob

X2 Great write up! Between Paul's excellent thread and your pics I am sure I can get these mounted. My only concern right now is the seat width and how far back I can position it. In the end I don't feel it will be a major issue because I'm only 5'-8".

[Namrups]

Continuing to work on mounting seats while I wait for my throttle linkage.

The best I can figure out is the following:

PS outside rear at harness tab. Can't bring the seat closer to the tab because it is hitting the roll bar.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175338&d=1669143762

PS outside front. Still slight space.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175339&d=1669143762

PS inside front. Still slight space. Not a lot of room to slide forward.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175340&d=1669143762

PS inside rear at harness tab.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175341&d=1669143762

Second angle.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175342&d=1669143762

[Namrups]

Third angle.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175343&d=1669143798

Room on the side for the body to fit.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175344&d=1669143798

Double checked to make sure the seat nor my head was higher than the roll bars. Check!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175345&d=1669143798

Given the high temperatures in the 30's the past couple of days I switched to covering my dash. I live alone so I had no issue with doing this work on my kitchen table. :cool:

1/8" Landau foam glued on with 3M Hi-Strength 90 contact adhesive.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175346&d=1669143798

Marine vinyl over the top using the same adhesive.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175347&d=1669143798

This is my first try at putting vinyl over foam padding. Is it perfect? No. Will it pass my inspection? Yes. What looks like a big bubble in the middle is actually a hole that will be cut out for the A/C controls. I'll leave it sit for a day or two to make sure it doesn't delaminate.

Supposed to warm up a little so back outside tomorrow.

[DesertSn8ke]

Referencing the TKX shifter placement issue a few pages back in your build thread, I'm also building a SBF Gen 3 Coupe, and was thinking of going with a TKX, but I'm not excited about cutting that crossmember if I dont' have to. Would the White Lighting shifter from American Powertrain have solved the issue? https://youtu.be/TiMYBghXnC0 (https://youtu.be/TiMYBghXnC0) It certainly looks like it would fix the shift lever placement with a 3" extension, but I'm wondering if there is enough vertical clearance between the shift mount pad and the bottom of the crossmember you had to cut for it to work? Just curious what your thoughts are for this as possible solution. Otherwise I might stick with a T-56.

[Namrups]

Not sure there will be room. It still looks too high and will hit the crossmember.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175348&d=1669152436
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175349&d=1669152436

The only way I can see would be to use the forward "midshift" kit but it might be too close to the dash then.

[GT_Rich]

Referencing the TKX shifter placement issue a few pages back in your build thread, I'm also building a SBF Gen 3 Coupe, and was thinking of going with a TKX, but I'm not excited about cutting that crossmember if I dont' have to. Would the White Lighting shifter from American Powertrain have solved the issue? https://youtu.be/TiMYBghXnC0 (https://youtu.be/TiMYBghXnC0) It certainly looks like it would fix the shift lever placement with a 3" extension, but I'm wondering if there is enough vertical clearance between the shift mount pad and the bottom of the crossmember you had to cut for it to work? Just curious what your thoughts are for this as possible solution. Otherwise I might stick with a T-56.

I am also building a SBF Gen3 Coupe. I used a front shift kit from Silver Sport Transmissions. It clears everything, no cutting required, and with a straight 6" shift lever, position is good. I will get a picture up on my build thread in the next could days.

[Namrups]

Too late for me but I am interested in your pics. Might be an upgrade in the future and I'm sure others are interested!

[Skuzzy]

I am also building a SBF Gen3 Coupe. I used a front shift kit from Silver Sport Transmissions. It clears everything, no cutting required, and with a straight 6" shift lever, position is good. I will get a picture up on my build thread in the next could days.

It is a pricey option, but I am going with it as well. Would love to see some pictures of where the shifter handle is located in the car.

Namrups, just a thought. Looking at how close the seat(s) are to the bare floor. Are you going to have room to add insulation and/or carpeting? Assuming you are going to do that.

[Namrups]

It is a pricey option, but I am going with it as well. Would love to see some pictures of where the shifter handle is located in the car.

Namrups, just a thought. Looking at how close the seat(s) are to the bare floor. Are you going to have room to add insulation and/or carpeting? Assuming you are going to do that.

Very good question. I don't see room to use any type of heat and sound "mat" and carpet. Using the spray on heat and sound material (same as EdwardB's) and carpet should work. It will be tight.

[DesertSn8ke]

Good info on possible shifter solutions. Curious to see pictures of the Silver Sport option. I'm very early in the build yet. Finished inventory, marking and pulling panels off. Haven't ordered an engine and trans yet so I have options. Just waiting on some quotes to come in.

[Namrups]

Good info on possible shifter solutions. Curious to see pictures of the Silver Sport option. I'm very early in the build yet. Finished inventory, marking and pulling panels off. Haven't ordered an engine and trans yet so I have options. Just waiting on some quotes to come in.

GT_Rich has recently posted a video of his build with that shift kit. (427 SBF Coupe R Build) That looks like the way to go if you don't want to cut the cross brace.

[Namrups]

Continuing to work towards go-karting.

Mounted dash and fabbed a temp shifter.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175880&d=1669492809
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175881&d=1669492809

Also mounted both seats in their final location.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175882&d=1669492809

Hopefully we can get the go-kart in before any major snow. Accelerator linkage is the last item needed.

[rhk118]

Looks great Scott! You did not waste any time! I can see into my future with the seating issue you had as am going the same way and noticed my seat mounts look different than Paul's as well, so will be tackling the very same issue you brought up, appreciate everyone's input there, will be adding my own once I get to that point :p . Can't wait to see what you do with the rest of the cockpit, I assume carpet? FYI those tires look bad *** to me....must be the zig-zags...

[Namrups]

I made the rookie mistake of not double checking. If I had, I might have been able to do something different. Moving the seat harness tabs out wider is the first thing that comes to mind. It might let the seats sit farther back. By the time I realized something was different I had already had all the panels installed. Not going to pull them back out. I'm only 5'-8" so even though the seats are closer to the wheel it is ok for me. With the sliders it will move it close enough for my daughter also. I did trim the RT directional mount as much as I could to move the wheel as close to the dash as possible.

My plan is to use the Lizard Skin products covered by carpet. In the footbox areas I have used Duraliner and Dynaliner. I'm thinking about using felt on the roof instead of the FF liner.

If I had it to do over again I might use 1/16" foam on the dash instead of the 1/8". I'm not sure I really like the way the switches and mounting screws bury themselves in the foam the way they do. At this point I'm just snugging them up enough to hold in place. Not tightening them down completely. I had thought about just using two layers of vinyl but I was afraid that any imperfection might show thru. The foam hides them.

The tires are Falken RT615's. The Falken RT660's were highly recommended but IMO they are more of a track tire with less tread. I believe the 615's are more of a street tire and they were a little less expensive.

[Blitzboy54]

Dash looks fantastic Scott. It was my favorite part of the build. Starting to look like a real boy.

[Namrups]

Dash looks fantastic Scott. It was my favorite part of the build. Starting to look like a real boy.

Thanks Jesse!

[Erik W. Treves]

Looking really good~!

[Namrups]

Looking really good~!

Thanks Eric!

[Jeff Kleiner]

I agree with Erik!

Jeff

[Namrups]

I agree with Erik!

Jeff

Thanks Jeff! Appreciate the support!

[Namrups]

While waiting for my throttle linkage to arrive I started on the AC/Heat.

Located and mounted the AC/Heater unit. If you look close you can see that I had to heat and bend the drain connection. No matter what I did I couldn't get the unit to clear both that drain and the AC fitting against the frame. The drain was plastic and with the heat gun was the easiest solution.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176198&d=1669861070

Also mounted the condenser. This is not the kit supplied condenser. Following Paul's lead I went with the Vintage Air A/C Condenser part# VTA-03263-VUC from Summit Racing. A little pricy but it fits the radiator better. I used the kit supplied mounting hardware without issue.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176199&d=1669861070

[JimStone]

Thank you for documenting your progress and providing insight into your build. I'm in the planning phase and this has been very helpful. Your car looks great! - Jim

[Namrups]

Received my throttle linkage from Forte today. Hopefully I can get it installed and maybe have my go-kart by next weekend if the weather holds!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176614&d=1670728974

[Namrups]

Custom throttle install day 1

After digging myself out after the 5" snowfall last night .....
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176674&d=1670878190

I started the throttle install. I laid everything out to take a good look at everything and so I could get a good picture of how this was going to get installed in my mind.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176675&d=1670878190

I was very impressed with the quality of the parts. The kit comes with all the required rods and fittings, throttle pedal and thruwall mounting bracket. Unlike the Forte roadster system, this setup has all of the connecting rods outside of the pedal box. This required special milling of the thruwall mounting bracket.

Throttle pedal
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176676&d=1670878190

Throttle actuating arm
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176677&d=1670878190

Thruwall mounting bracket. You can see how it has been milled.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176678&d=1670878190

[Namrups]

The throttle and actuating arm are both splined to eliminate slippage.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176679&d=1670878238
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176680&d=1670878238

The first thing I noticed was that the actuator arm has three adjustment holes. The problem was that they were too small to accept the 1/4" rod bolts to attach. Drilled them out using 1/4" drill. Problem solved.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176681&d=1670878238

I decided to start the install from the Sniper and work back to the throttle pedal. Don't know if this was the right way to approach this but it worked for me. The second issue I ran into was that my fuel pressure gauge was in the way. I had installed it just to verify fuel pressure during first start with the idea of removing it anyway. Problem 2 solved.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176682&d=1670878238
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176683&d=1670878238

[Namrups]

I have read others have added clips to the back side of the firewall to stiffen it up. I kept my mounting location as low as possible so that I didn't have to do that and it cleared the wiring I had already installed. I will be removing everything to drill for the thru pins and to make sure everything is tightened down so on this connection I did not add the large washer.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176685&d=1670878281

Because I kept the crossbar mounting low I had to mill out the top of the footbox for the washer on the other connection seen here. You will also note in a later pic that I flipped the rod connection over for better alignment.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176686&d=1670878281

In this pic you can see where the throttle pedal will come thru the side wall.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176687&d=1670878281

And how it will look in the pedal box. IMO it is a very clean simple setup.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176688&d=1670878281
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176684&d=1670878281

At this point my arthritis started to lock my hands up due to the 27 degree cold outside. The garage heaters warm the garage into the 40's but everything you touch is still cold. Tomorrow I will mount the pedal/actuator, heat and sound barrier to the aluminum side panel. The cross bar will have to be removed so that I can drill for the guide pins. Once pressed in they will keep the arms from coming loose and spinning on the shaft. The shaft itself can also be cut down. After that it all can be permanently installed and I can go-kart!

[GT_Rich]

I have to ask, what is the point of all that over just using the cable and pedal FFR supplies?

[Namrups]

I have to ask, what is the point of all that over just using the cable and pedal FFR supplies?

Rear the following link: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?44753-throttle-cable-vs-mechanical-linkage

[rhk118]

Rear the following link: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?44753-throttle-cable-vs-mechanical-linkage

Wow, didn't even know this was a thing Scott. Is that kit specifically for the Coupe or is it a roadster kit you modified? I was going to upgrade to a Lokar cable, but I don't like my throttle on/off. hmmmm....thanks for posting all of that and it laid out as you did.

[Namrups]

Wow, didn't even know this was a thing Scott. Is that kit specifically for the Coupe or is it a roadster kit you modified?

Mike Forte has this kit designed specifically for the Coupe.

[Namrups]

Throttle install day 2

First thing on the agenda today was mounting the thru-wall plates for the throttle/actuator arm.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176730&d=1670966923

With that in place I was able to figure out where to attach the rods. I came up with the Sniper rod attached to the crossbar pivot arm about half way to the pivot point and the throttle rod all the way out from the pivot point. This gave me the most movement of the throttle to get to full throttle on the Sniper.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176733&d=1670966923

At this point I started the car to feel the throttle response. I like this setup. Throttle is smooth, controllable and very precise. Having located the positioning of the pivot arms I used a 1/8" drill to drill holes for the roll pins.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176731&d=1670966923
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176732&d=1670966923

Reinstalled everything so that I can now go-kart. After go-karting I will have to remove the aluminum panels on the footbox so that I can add the heat/sound mats and then final assembly.

[rhk118]

Scott, location of that linkage not likely to interfere with the wipers? Looks pretty low.

[Namrups]

Scott, location of that linkage not likely to interfere with the wipers? Looks pretty low.

Hope not. To early to tell. It's another reason I kept it a low as I could.

[edwardb]

Scott, location of that linkage not likely to interfere with the wipers? Looks pretty low.


Hope not. To early to tell. It's another reason I kept it a low as I could.

Shouldn't be a problem. This isn't the best picture, but the only one I have. You can see the wiper boxes and tubs are nearly tight against the top of the body and well up on the firewall.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82914&d=1521668120

[Namrups]

Shouldn't be a problem. This isn't the best picture, but the only one I have. You can see the wiper boxes and tubs are nearly tight against the top of the body and well up on the firewall.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82914&d=1521668120

Thanks for the response Paul. I remembered seeing this in your thread and felt comfortable with the throttle setup.

[Namrups]

Go-Kart!!

We are supposed to get from 4" to 18" of snow starting tonight! Needed to go-kart now or wait till spring. Keeping in mind that I live in the middle of town and it's only 31 degrees I didn't get much over an idle nor did I go very far! Another milestone achieved!


https://youtu.be/hSYz7ARJRBg

[Jeff Kleiner]

That is FANTASTIC Scott! Really excited for you :)

And don't let a little snow slow you down------ 176806

Jeff

[Dave Tabor]

Scott- this made my day- good for you! Inspirational!

And just a year and a month after your first post!

Here's to getting to Spring asap!

Dave
Gen III Coupe #17

[Namrups]

That is FANTASTIC Scott! Really excited for you :)

And don't let a little snow slow you down------ 176806

Jeff

Thanks Jeff! More concerning than the snow is the fact I live right in the middle of Mechanicville! No place to run and hide if the cops show up.

[Namrups]

Scott- this made my day- good for you! Inspirational!

And just a year and a month before your first post!

Here's to getting to Spring asap!

Dave
Gen III Coupe #17

Only 175 days from delivery!! No major hick-ups or delays so far.

[Joel Hauser]

That is very cool, scott. What does your daughter think?

[Namrups]

That is very cool, scott. What does your daughter think?

It's hard to say. She has helped me a couple of times but has not shown a real interest. She sat behind the wheel at one point during the build when I only had the drivers seat in and told me that I should put the other seat in so that we could sit in it together. Once it's done and we can cruise in it I think it will be a different story. I told her to imagine me picking her up from school in it. It (and she) will be surrounded by half the boys in the school! Especially if she gets into the drivers seat and drives away! After saying that I thought about it and said maybe that's not such a good idea!! :p

[Mark Eaton]

Awesome!! Makes me want to build a Type '65 Coupe next!!

[Namrups]

Awesome!! Makes me want to build a Type '65 Coupe next!!

Go for it!!

[rhk118]

Scott! Congrats! Sounds great and wow that turning radius!

[Namrups]

Scott! Congrats! Sounds great and wow that turning radius!

As my daughter would say "Ya I know right!!"

[Skuzzy]

Congratulations! Happy to see it all came together for you.

[Namrups]

Congratulations! Happy to see it all came together for you.

Thanks Skuzzy!

[Blitzboy54]

Congrats Scott! Disappointed I couldn't be there. Glad you got it done

[burchfieldb]

That is awesome and a great milestone, nice work! I feel like a kid a Christmas every time I hear one of these cars startup.

[Namrups]

Congrats Scott! Disappointed I couldn't be there. Glad you got it done

If we get lucky with the snow I may have a chance to try again on Sunday. If you are available PM me.

[Namrups]

That is awesome and a great milestone, nice work! I feel like a kid a Christmas every time I hear one of these cars startup.

I do also. I found I am looking for reasons to push the start button!

[burchfieldb]

I do also. I found I am looking for reasons to push the start button!

Yes, I have the same problem, even though my engine is currently on a run stand. It is so satisfying to push the start button!

[cgundermann]

Awesomeness - man you trucking along!

Chris

[Namrups]

Awesomeness - man you trucking along!

Chris

Thanks Chris!

[JimStone]

That 427 is a snarling beast! Love it! Great work Scott!

[Namrups]

That 427 is a snarling beast! Love it! Great work Scott!

Thanks Jim!

[Bob-STL]

I love these go-cart videos, especially in the snow!

[Namrups]

Started to install the AC plumbing and ran into an immediate issue. The thru-wall mount has a center-of-hole to center-of-hole dimension of 1 5/8". I measured, re-measured and measured again the upper fitting to line up with the fitting on the AC unit. These lines are very short so getting this in the proper location was very important in my mind. After drilling and installing the thru-wall mount I noticed that even though the top fitting was in alignment the center-of-hole to center-of-hole of the fittings on the AC unit was different.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177111&d=1671811535

I have two issues. First the misalignment of the lower fitting and second the bottom fitting hits the steel brace. As you can see in the pic I can not attach this fitting this way without cross threading it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177109&d=1671811535

I have discussed this with my expert mentor (yes that would be Paul!) and he had the same issues. I believe we have decided on a solution and I will post pics when completed.

In the mean time, stay warm and Merry Christmas!

[freds]

I made it very simple for myself, and eliminated two elbow flow restrictions (minimal)," but every little helps"
177181
fred

[Namrups]

I made it very simple for myself, and eliminated two elbow flow restrictions (minimal)," but every little helps"
177181
fred

Great idea. Wish I had seen it sooner.

[edwardb]

Great idea. Wish I had seen it sooner.

Like most everything, has plusses and minuses. Agreed going direct would eliminate the manifold and those crazy short hoses. Which are a pain to get just right. But without the manifold your hose connections would be inside at the evaporator and very difficult to remove and/or service if necessary. Once that evaporator and associated plumbing is permanently installed in the footbox, really wouldn't want to have to get into it. Not a friendly place to work.

[Namrups]

Like most everything, has plusses and minuses. Agreed going direct would eliminate the manifold and those crazy short hoses. Which are a pain to get just right. But without the manifold your hose connections would be inside at the evaporator and very difficult to remove and/or service if necessary. Once that evaporator and associated plumbing is permanently installed in the footbox, really wouldn't want to have to get into it. Not a friendly place to work.

After thinking about this I will agree with you Paul. Even having the small access panel I think working in that small area once and done is the way to go. Those hoses still need to be insulated to keep frost from melting in the footbox so if there was an issue that insulation would have to be redone also.

Not being critical of your solution Freds. As they say each to their own. Your solution may never be an issue. But for me I will work this out using the thru-wall manifold.

[freds]

After thinking about this I will agree with you Paul. Even having the small access panel I think working in that small area once and done is the way to go. Those hoses still need to be insulated to keep frost from melting in the footbox so if there was an issue that insulation would have to be redone also.

Not being critical of your solution Freds. As they say each to their own. Your solution may never be an issue. But for me I will work this out using the thru-wall manifold.

No skin off my nose. I know! The rest is merely speculation. I have 3,300 Houston miles on my # 50 coupe.

The suction line hose can be cold The "liquid line" can be warm/hot and having them together is normal A/C good practice. .Also, in the footbox only source of heat is from the heater hoses. "Melt" hoses?.

Thanks for the reply...I appreciate good manners. And enjoy your build...it's worth the effort!

fred

[maclonchas]

Blitzboy54 stopped by over the weekend and we bleed the brakes. Thanks Jesse for the help and for bringing your pressure bleeding unit.

Working to get to a point where I can drop the engine in. To do so I need to have some of the engine bay electrical completed. Laid out the positive and negative battery cables. Using 2 ga cable to go from the battery to the master cut off switch. Then from the switched side to the starter with 4 ga. Also from the switched side to a 150 amp breaker to a positive bus bar in the dash with 8 ga cable. Also laid out the negative to the frame with 2 ga.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172822&d=1663709674

Also laid out the rear harness. Shortened the fuel pump and the sender wires for a better fit. This harness will enter the cockpit thru the DS side panel. The rear brake line and the hydraulic clutch line also use this same location.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172819&d=1663709674
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172820&d=1663709674

Thinking about laying out the dash I decided to follow EdwardB's lead and made up a filler piece between the dash and the front transmission tunnel cover. Now to figure out how to lay out all the switches and buttons.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172821&d=1663709674

SCOTT,
In your last picture with the steering wheel and column in the Coupe, it shows a gap between the column and gauge sheet panel. When you get a chance, can you measure the gap between the column and the top of the radius.

Additionally, later I may take you up on your offer for the guides to attach the steering wheel and quick release.

Thanks
Bill

[Namrups]

I will get you the dimension. Let me know on the guides.

[maclonchas]

I will get you the dimension. Let me know on the guides.

Scott,

Thanks. I will send you a PM on the guides.

Bill

[Namrups]

SCOTT,
In your last picture with the steering wheel and column in the Coupe, it shows a gap between the column and gauge sheet panel. When you get a chance, can you measure the gap between the column and the top of the radius.

Additionally, later I may take you up on your offer for the guides to attach the steering wheel and quick release.

Thanks
Bill

The gap is 19/32". Also note that I had to mill out a space for the RT wiring.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177451&d=1672504867
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177450&d=1672504867

[maclonchas]

Thanks

[Namrups]

A/C install continued

I used the Mastercool A/C manual hose crimper for the first time.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177510&d=1672593568

It comes with 4 different size clamps. The install will use three of the four. Die sets #6,8 and 10
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177511&d=1672593568
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177512&d=1672593568

I used this Klein Tools wire cutter (#63050) to cut the hoses. Worked great.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177513&d=1672593568

A couple of posts back I noted that the bottom fitting on the manifold did not line up with the fitting on the A/C unit and it was hitting the brace. My solution was to insert a tapered punch and apply a small amount of pressure to slightly bend the fitting. This very small bend allowed it to align better and the fitting no longer hit the brace. The key here is very slight pressure.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177514&d=1672593568

[Namrups]

I had read in other posts that the hose will lengthen when crimped. For a longer hose that isn't really an issue but for these two very short hoses it is. On a practice piece I inserted the hose all the way into the fitting. A full 1 1/4". I marked the hose and then crimped it. As you can see the crimping pushes the hose out around a total of 1/8" overall. Keep that in mine when measuring these short hoses.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177515&d=1672593593

As these short hoses do not bend real well I found that by loosening the manifold fitting I could bend the hose enough to get it connected. Then I tightened manifold and then the fitting.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177516&d=1672593593

Finished product. Now to take it apart again to apply the heat/sound barrier to the aluminum panel.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177517&d=1672593593

[Namrups]

Day 196

AC drain tube installed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177739&d=1672960400

Drier installed. Hose from manifold to drier and from drier to condenser installed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177740&d=1672960400
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177742&d=1672960400
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177741&d=1672960400

Heater hoses from AC unit to manifold installed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177745&d=1672960449

[Namrups]

Front face aluminum on PS footbox installed along with the AC hose from AC unit to the compressor.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177743&d=1672960400

Heater valve installed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177744&d=1672960449

PS footbox complete with both AC and heater manifolds and hoses installed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177747&d=1672960449

The hose from the compressor to the condenser is 6" too short. Ordered a new hose. With this set-up I will have to loop the hose over the top of the hose from the AC unit. Not pleased about it but I don't see any other way.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177746&d=1672960449

I won't try to charge the AC system until the spring. After I see that there are no leaks I will insulate the hoses in the PS footbox. The wiring and under dash hoses still need to be installed.

[David Williamson]

Too late for your build but.... I used a mid mount bracket set that locates the AC compressor under the alternator. This reduces the hose length and I think is a neater system.
Yours is an awsome build and really well documented.
David W

[Namrups]

Too late for your build but.... I used a mid mount bracket set that locates the AC compressor under the alternator. This reduces the hose length and I think is a neater system.
Yours is an awsome build and really well documented.
David W

David, Thanks for your reply and support. Being a first time builder I am finding that there are a number of things I would do differently if I were to do it again. Even though your suggestion may not help me, continue to comment if you see something as it will help future builders!

[Namrups]

It's been just shy of 7 months since I took delivery. I decided to do a short 7 minute walk around explaining where things sit at the moment. Other posts have been talking about the shape there body is in so I added views of my body at the end of the video. Enjoy.


https://youtu.be/mD50nsQpwoQ

[Namrups]

As mentioned in my previous video, I am installing the wiring for the Vintage Air heater/A-C unit. I have figured out everything except one blue wire coming off the trinary switch. Any help would be appreciated!

Background: I have the FF supplied Vintage Air A/C unit. I am running the Sniper EFI. The Sniper controls the fan.

The FF installation wiring diagram (shown below) shows the blue wire coming off the trinary switch attaching to the green fan thermo relay in the RT harness.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177983&d=1673554922

The Sniper documentation (shown below) shows two optional leads. One marked "Connect to a ground triggered A/C relay" and the other marked "Connect to ground side trigger of A/C shutdown relay"
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177982&d=1673554922

So should I connect the blue wire from the trinary switch to the fan relay as shown in the FF documentation or to one of the wires from the Sniper? If the Sniper then which one?

Thanks in advance for any and all replies!

Scott

[edwardb]

Nice video and great progress. Your body does look excellent. You'll likely uncover some voids or whatever when that flashing is ground down on the parting lines. But in general you're right. Looks decent. As for the voids around that are behind the windows, yours looks great. Mine was kind of a mess in that area. So have some others that have been posted. I don't have an explanation for the variability. One other random comment. I see you have your GPS antenna mounted up on the roll bar. It's maybe fine there if that's what you want. But does seem like it's at an angle rather than flat pointed at the sky. Mine works just fine under the dash. My build thread shows where I mounted it. It's flat to the sky, acquires quickly, and has been rock solid. Plus it's out of sight.

For your A/C wiring I can only give a semi-educated answer based on my experience wiring A/C with a Coyote and LS. Which were exactly the same. In my case, the two installations had control packs with +12V fan wires for the cooling fan. So the PCM in both cases powered the fan based on engine temp. Same as how a non-A/C build would be wired with those engines. Then there was a second circuit using the RF fan circuit with the ground wire attached to the trinary switch per the diagram you posted. When the trinary switch closed to ground, the attached RF fan thermo wire would activate the RF fan circuit and power the fan. Just to confirm, the trinary switch shuts off the A/C compressor if pressures are too low or too high. Hence the connections to the compressor. It also turns on the cooling fan when the A/C is running. So it needs to connect to the cooling fan circuit.

In your case, if I understand what I'm looking at, the Sniper EFI system doesn't have a +12V power lead for the fan. It's expecting to use your RF fan circuit, and use one of the RF fan thermo wires to trigger engine cooling, which you would do whether you have A/C or not. Then the other RF fan thermo wire (there are two in the harness) would go to your A/C trinary switch. So when the trinary switch closes to ground, that also will cause the fan to run via the RF fan circuit. I'm not sure you'd use either of the Sniper EFI wires you have highlighted in orange. I'd get that confirmed either from someone who's actually installed A/C with the Sniper EFI system in one of these cars. Or check with Holley. But at least maybe my explanation helps describe how it should work.

[Skuzzy]

WOW! Your body is so much better than mine. Luck of the draw, I suppose. Glad you got a good one! Nothing about my build has been easy or simple.

Next crisis is trying to figure out how to mount the rear lower control arms as the frame and mounting points of the lower control arms are an 1/8" apart. I am not even sure how I am going to make any adjustments to be able to fit those arms.

My two options, at the moment, is either to cut the arms and narrow them 1/8" or cut the mounting ears on the frame and relocate them 1/8".

Neither of those options are very attractive, but I am not seeing any alternatives, at the moment.

This is the way it has been with my build. Nothing has attached to the frame without some type of surgery/alterations. I just assume that is the way it is.

[Namrups]

WOW! Your body is so much better than mine. Luck of the draw, I suppose. Glad you got a good one! Nothing about my build has been easy or simple.

Next crisis is trying to figure out how to mount the rear lower control arms as the frame and mounting points of the lower control arms are an 1/8" apart. I am not even sure how I am going to make any adjustments to be able to fit those arms.

My two options, at the moment, is either to cut the arms and narrow them 1/8" or cut the mounting ears on the frame and relocate them 1/8".

Neither of those options are very attractive, but I am not seeing any alternatives, at the moment.

This is the way it has been with my build. Nothing has attached to the frame without some type of surgery/alterations. I just assume that is the way it is.

Before getting that drastic I would slide the bolt thru one ear. Add a washer, two nuts and a second washer in that order then thru the other ear and by using the nuts to try to open up the ears enough to get the arms in. I had to do that to one of mine and was able to get in. Worth a try.

[Skuzzy]

Before getting that drastic I would slide the bolt thru one ear. Add a washer, two nuts and a second washer in that order then thru the other ear and by using the nuts to try to open up the ears enough to get the arms in. I had to do that to one of mine and was able to get in. Worth a try.

The ears are not the problem. The width between the ears is fine. It is the distance between the front mount and rear mount that is at issue. They are just over 1/8" too far apart for the control arms to fit in. I'll have a pic later this morning.

After sleeping on it, I am of the mind that I am going to have to build another set of control arms to make this work, but I am going to look at it again with fresh eyes and see if another solution is possible.

[edwardb]

The ears are not the problem. The width between the ears is fine. It is the distance between the front mount and rear mount that is at issue. They are just over 1/8" too far apart for the control arms to fit in. I'll have a pic later this morning.

After sleeping on it, I am of the mind that I am going to have to build another set of control arms to make this work, but I am going to look at it again with fresh eyes and see if another solution is possible.

Scott's suggestion to adjust the ears is a valid one. It can make a difference just for situations like yours. Using a piece of threaded rod, washers, and nuts to spread them is the least invasive way to do it and is quite effective. Not just for the side-by-side tabs but also the distance between the tabs. By creating additional space often the arms will go in. If you read other build threads, many others note the need to adjust the ears and use a similar method. I've had to do it on multiple places on nearly every build. Better than beating them in like some do.

If/when that's not enough, you can adjust the control arms. I'm assuming since you're talking about rear control arms, that has to be IRS and I've had to adjust the arms a couple of times on the IRS builds I've done. They have relatively long tubes and even though welded in fixtures, the welding can cause built-in stresses that move the metal slightly when removed. I'm sure you know that. I've used a floor jack to spread them. I've used a couple of sharp hits with a dead blow hammer and the other side on a solid surface to narrow them. With the poly bushings removed of course. It doesn't take much, again because of the length of the tubes. One other hint, I always pump the joint full of grease through the zerk fitting before assembly. It's easier to fill the first time before assembly, make sure they're filled, plus the grease makes assembly go a bit easier. You seem pretty determined to take more extreme measures and that's certainly your choice. But for others reading this thread including those of us that don't have the skills or tools, what you have isn't particularly unusual and can be adjusted to fit.

Now back to Scott's build thread. :o

[Skuzzy]

Scott's suggestion to adjust the ears is a valid one. It can make a difference just for situations like yours. Using a piece of threaded rod, washers, and nuts to spread them is the least invasive way to do it and is quite effective. Not just for the side-by-side tabs but also the distance between the tabs. By creating additional space often the arms will go in. If you read other build threads, many others note the need to adjust the ears and use a similar method. I've had to do it on multiple places on nearly every build. Better than beating them in like some do.

If/when that's not enough, you can adjust the control arms. I'm assuming since you're talking about rear control arms, that has to be IRS and I've had to adjust the arms a couple of times on the IRS builds I've done. They have relatively long tubes and even though welded in fixtures, the welding can cause built-in stresses that move the metal slightly when removed. I'm sure you know that. I've used a floor jack to spread them. I've used a couple of sharp hits with a dead blow hammer and the other side on a solid surface to narrow them. With the poly bushings removed of course. It doesn't take much, again because of the length of the tubes. One other hint, I always pump the joint full of grease through the zerk fitting before assembly. It's easier to fill the first time to before assembly, make sure they're filled, plus the grease makes assembly go a bit easier. You seem pretty determined to take more extreme measures and that's certainly your choice. But for others reading this thread including those of us that don't have the skills or tools, what you have isn't particularly unusual and can be adjusted to fit.

Now back to Scott's build thread. :o

After a cup of coffee, I see what you guys are talking about. None of those solutions are ideal (the engineer cringes a bit). I apologize for this intrusion into your build thread Namrups. I'll figure it out and take this someplace else to discuss.

[Namrups]

After a cup of coffee, I see what you guys are talking about. None of those solutions are ideal (the engineer cringes a bit). I apologize for this intrusion into your build thread Namrups. I'll figure it out and take this someplace else to discuss.

Not an issue Skuzzy. Other first timers will be reading the thread and information like this will be helpful no matter if they read it here or somewhere else. A separate thread with a proper title and tags would only make it easier to search.

[Namrups]

I've completed the install of the A/C system. All wired up and everything tucked under dash. Things are very tight. Also made a harness for my fog lights and windshield washer reservoir.

Good news: The heater fan works. The A/C switch lights up when switched. I do not have the system charged yet.

Bad news: The heater valve does not operate. As you turn the heater rheostat it should operate the heater valve to open or close. Mine does not move. I checked the rheostat with an ohm meter and it registered nothing. It should change as the rheostat is turned.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178235&d=1673993430

Installed the windshield washer reservoir.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178237&d=1673993445

And made up a template for the new transmission tunnel cover.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178234&d=1673993430

Also received the Lizardskin CI and SC.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178232&d=1673993430

I was tossing around the idea of applying the Lizardskin with a roller instead of spraying but ended up getting the spray gun also.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178233&d=1673993430

[Namrups]

Went in a little different direction. I was going to apply the Lizardskin and then mount the body. Decided to hold off on the Lizardskin until the weather gets better. Not sure how it would react with freezing weather overnight.

I contacted a number of friends and we installed the body and set the hood in place today.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178741&d=1674940590
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178740&d=1674940590

Very exciting day but now the work continues with getting everything to line up.

[Skuzzy]

Congratulations on another milestone!

[GT_Rich]

Did your air filter clear the hood? How do the side pipes fit in the cutout?

[Namrups]

Did your air filter clear the hood? How do the side pipes fit in the cutout?

Air filter does not clear! Not even close. The side pipes fit great.

[burchfieldb]

Air filter does not clear! Not even close. The side pipes fit great.

Keep is posted on you solution, I fear I am in the same boat.

[rhk118]

Congrats on the progress Scott! Thanks for the detailed build photos, once I am able to my AC box will be going into the PS footbox and then I can get the holes drilled, then maybe can get panels out for powdercoating. You are now the 3rd builder I'm aware of who has had alignment issues with those short hoses. I am just assuming I'll be in the same boat as well so appreciate you detailing how you dug out of that hole so to speak.

Question - is your radiator tunnel aluminum bare inside? I forget if you posted this earlier and if so sorry, they look powdercoated to me but photo is unfocused.

[Namrups]

Congrats on the progress Scott! Thanks for the detailed build photos, once I am able to my AC box will be going into the PS footbox and then I can get the holes drilled, then maybe can get panels out for powdercoating. You are now the 3rd builder I'm aware of who has had alignment issues with those short hoses. I am just assuming I'll be in the same boat as well so appreciate you detailing how you dug out of that hole so to speak.

Question - is your radiator tunnel aluminum bare inside? I forget if you posted this earlier and if so sorry, they look powdercoated to me but photo is unfocused.

The aluminum is a combination of Raptor bed liner on the wheel side and sharkhide on the radiator side.

[GT_Rich]

Air filter does not clear! Not even close. The side pipes fit great.

I'm not sure if mine will clear either. Should know in another month. I will say it's quite a bit lower than yours based on the pics I've seen from you. If you want to compare any measurements let me know via PM. I basically assembled mine with what I believe to be the lowest profile solution for a 351w based engine.

[Namrups]

I'm not sure if mine will clear either. Should know in another month. I will say it's quite a bit lower than yours based on the pics I've seen from you. If you want to compare any measurements let me know via PM. I basically assembled mine with what I believe to be the lowest profile solution for a 351w based engine.

If I can't figure this out I will take you up on your offer.

[Namrups]

Worked on the taillights today. The cutout pattern in the back of the manual was almost to scale. Only off about 1/16th of an inch. Good enough for me. I taped it on the car and marked all the center points with a center punch. Drilled the holes.

The led taillights are for retrofitting so they have a plug that has to get cut off.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178994&d=1675114581

I decided to wire these up with weatherpacks.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178995&d=1675114581

The issue with using weatherpacks is the 1" hole that is laid out in the manual is too small. I enlarged the hole to be able to slip the weatherpack thru.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178996&d=1675114581

Wiring was straight forward. I wired it for the top lights to be brake lights and the bottom to be directionals. I split off another leg from the drivers side for the third brake light that I plan to put into the spoiler. NY also requires side marker lights. I will be splitting off the license plate light for those feeds.

Completed look.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178997&d=1675114581

[Namrups]

Here is a short video of the taillights in operation.


https://youtu.be/NPyaABWRUos

[burchfieldb]

Looking good, nice progress!

[Shakey]

Hey Scott,

Great build! I am really enjoying learning from your build thread. I got my Forte mechanical throttle linkage in the mail last week and have been slowly installing it. Your write up on the install has really helped. I can't figure out were I am suppose to mount this return spring bracket.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=179009&d=1675146921

Did you use this in your install? Where did you mount it?

Thanks,

Shakey

[Namrups]

I have not used it yet. I have the spring hooked around the coil bracket. May use the bracket in that location. The return spring is a must use though. Throttle would not return all the way without it.

[Namrups]

Finished mounting the back up light, the license plate bracket and license plate light. I changed the license plate light to LED following the lead of EdwardB.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=179467&d=1675805957

I also decided on the location for the backup camera and cut out the hole. Need to work out how to mount it now.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=179466&d=1675805957

[Namrups]

It's been 2 weeks since my last update. The weather is upstate NY has been exceptionably warm for February. Sadly, I was unable to take full advantage of it. I ended up with an E.coli urinary track infection. Don't know how but treating it with antibiotics and getting better. It really knocked me on my *** for a few days. Managed to spend a little time working on the coupe.

I'm not sure if side marker lights are required in NY but I wanted them anyway. Looked at a number of different types and sizes. Finally decided on 1" round LEDs from Watsons Street Works. Very happy with the results.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180304&d=1677000145
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180303&d=1677000114
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180305&d=1677000145

Also got the rear hatch installed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180302&d=1677000114

[Namrups]

One of my biggest issues is the air cleaner clearance. With the Stealth manifold the black oval Cobra air cleaner sat too high and wouldn't clear the hood or the cowl. You can see in this pic that the air cleaner is above the firewall already. I loved that air cleaner. Had to figure out a way to use it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173428&d=1665094890

There is a black spacer that sits between the Sniper and the air cleaner. I tried removing that but then the front of the air cleaner sat on top of the distributor. No good.

I tried a 5 degree tapered spacer.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180306&d=1677000145

This allowed the air cleaner to tuck under the cowl. I would have to do some trimming of the lip but it would have fit. The front part of the air cleaner would have tilted up above the distributer about 2". I think that would have cleared under the bubble in the hood. Problem solved! Or so I thought.

I mounted the spacer and set the air cleaner in place just to see how far it would tuck under the cowl. As seen in the pic it is quite far. Now I was concerned about the windshield wiper assembly and if there would be interference.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=179820&d=1676176801

I discussed this with Paul and even though he felt there should be room I was not getting a real warm fuzzy. It might work but before I start trimming the body I wanted to explore other options.

I found a smaller oval air cleaner that looked promising.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180296&d=1677000066
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180297&d=1677000066

Still too high.

[Namrups]

During my discussions with Paul he asked if I had tried a drop base air cleaner. To be honest I had never heard of that. I found that Sniper had a drop base designed for the Sniper unit with the proper clearances. I ordered one and tried it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180298&d=1677000066
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180299&d=1677000066

I was happy with the fit. It lowered the base of the filter by 1". Now I had 2" of clearance between the filter base and the lip on the cowl. Started looking for a 2" x 14" round air filter assembly. I found one at Summit that I really liked. It's red to match the red highlights on the car and air can also be pulled thru the top cover. May have to trim the underside of the hood slightly but I think this is the solution. Fingers crossed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180300&d=1677000114
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180301&d=1677000114

[JohnK]

From your first photo, it looks like the main issue with fitting the larger oval air cleaner is the distributor. One option might be to use an angle-drive distributor (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdm-pce376-1140?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiA9NGfBhBvEiwAq5vSy8Rl96RAP9s0BcQav9dc 5qoN8Y3wYPK-OMeJ4MYuAiBcAsVpaGADyxoCqdsQAvD_BwE). It seems like this might allow you to fit the large oval air cleaner without even needing the 5* wedge base or trimming the cowl. I've never used one of these personally, but I've seen others use them and it might be a solution (albeit an expensive one) to your issue.

[Jeff Kleiner]

K&N 14" drop base with an X-Stream top.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/q54AAOSwLzljiN1g/s-l640.jpg

Your engine will thank you; those short ovals are tremendously restrictive and like breathing through a straw!

Jeff

EDIT Looks like I was typing and retrieving a photo while you made your last post! Never mind :)

[Namrups]

From your first photo, it looks like the main issue with fitting the larger oval air cleaner is the distributor. One option might be to use an angle-drive distributor (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdm-pce376-1140?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiA9NGfBhBvEiwAq5vSy8Rl96RAP9s0BcQav9dc 5qoN8Y3wYPK-OMeJ4MYuAiBcAsVpaGADyxoCqdsQAvD_BwE). It seems like this might allow you to fit the large oval air cleaner without even needing the 5* wedge base or trimming the cowl. I've never used one of these personally, but I've seen others use them and it might be a solution (albeit an expensive one) to your issue.

Thanks for that info. After mounting the body it was clear that the Cobra air cleaner was sitting higher that the cowl. Wasn't workable in IMO.

[Namrups]

K&N 14" drop base with an X-Stream top.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/q54AAOSwLzljiN1g/s-l640.jpg

Your engine will thank you; those short ovals are tremendously restrictive and like breathing through a straw!

Jeff

EDIT Looks like I was typing and retrieving a photo while you made your last post! Never mind :)

See Jeff ... like minds think the same!!:rolleyes:

[GT_Rich]

Were you able to install the hatch without trimming the body for hinge clearance?

[Namrups]

Were you able to install the hatch without trimming the body for hinge clearance?

No. I had to cut slots for the hinges. If you look close you can see them.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180302&d=1677000114

[Namrups]

My post 712 showed the location for my rear view mirror camera. To mount it I glued two posts to the fiberglass with HSRF. Attached to that is an aluminum angle piece and the camera is bolted to that. Straight forward and more important its removable. Camera angle makes it look unlevel. It's not.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180428&d=1677105054

I received the replacement rheostat for my heater. Removed the bad one and wired in the new one. I double checked and this one works as it should. Tomorrow I'll start the car and see if it actually operates the heater valve as it should.

[Bill-53]

I purchased a crate engine ( 351 sbf )for my gen3 coupe from a builder in Arizon. I am having air filter issues also. I have spent several hundred dollars trying to get some combination of base plate filter and top plate that will fit with no luck. The K&N drop base with X - Stream top does not fit. I’m really stuck. Any ideas are appreciated.

[Namrups]

Bill,
How high is your air filter element? A normal 3" element will be too high. The one I bought from Summit is only 2" high. that with the Holly Sniper drop base looks like it will clear. I will be working on fitting the hood next week. Will know for sure then.

[Yellville]

When did you receive your hatch glass? My timeline is similar to yours but I still don't have the hatch.

[Namrups]

When did you receive your hatch glass? My timeline is similar to yours but I still don't have the hatch.

About 3 weeks ago. It was the last item on my POL.

[Namrups]

Jesse (blitzboy54) took the day off from work today and gave me a hand with the hood mounting. We started at 9am, broke for a short lunch and called it a day at 3pm. Got the hood mounted. Side to side measurements are good. Pontoons are close. Still need to trim at the cowl.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181002&d=1677787291
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181003&d=1677787313

Still have some issues:

Drivers side is way out. Not sure what to do here. Fiberglass in this area is very thick. The hood sits about 1/2" higher than the body.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181000&d=1677787291

Bottom of the hinges will have to be filled in. I purchased some Delrin for that.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181004&d=1677787313

I was also concerned about the air filter fitting. It just fit without any extra room. I tried using the tapered spacer and that helped a little. Good to go as far as I'm concerned.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180999&d=1677787291

[GT_Rich]

Install your latches and start putting some tension on the nose as you install. Put rubber bumpers in the center and then use the latch to pull it down. Obviously, you'll need to start iteratively trimming the edge in conjunction with all this. I had a similar gap on the driver side and I surprisingly made it all fit. In fact, my body to door and body to nose alignment all the way around the car is way better than I expected. I am not adding filler and sanding between panels. It was never my intention to make the car that nice but honestly it really doesn't need it anyways which shocks me.

[Namrups]

I ordered factory cut-outs. I installed my latches and the u-clamps. The initial alignment shows that I still need to move the hood 1/4" towards the body. The pic shows the PS. DS is the same.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181338&d=1678384166

The clamp on the DS has room for adjustment.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181341&d=1678384166

But the clamp on the PS does not!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181340&d=1678384166

I measured the cutout location on the DS. It was 3 3/4" from the edge.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181344&d=1678384195

The PS measured 3 1/2"!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181342&d=1678384166

Not sure what to do now. Any suggestions?

[Jeff Kleiner]

Before you go too far and begin cutting anything check to see where your tires (especially the rear)
fall in relation to the wheel wells. Keep in mind that you’ll need to have your ride height and alignment reasonably close when you do this. A friend thought he had everything pretty well dialed in then put the wheels on and discovered that they were way too far rearward meaning that the body was too far forward—- worst was that by this time he’d already cut the hood and when the body was moved back to where it belonged he ended up with a huge void between it and the body and had run out of adjustment. :(

Jeff

[Namrups]

I have the rear alignment set at what the manual requires. With the body where it is now all of the measurements are right on. The rear wheels are centered in the openings. The pontoons in the front align with the front splash guards. To me the body is just where it should be.

[edwardb]

Your large gap between the hood and the body and the misalignment at the front wheel wells between the hood and the pontoons indicates to me the hood isn't far enough back. The front edge of the pontoons should directly align with the outline of the wheel wells. It may not seem possible at first, but with enough massaging you should get there. I too found the manual directed alignment of the body was very close. It took at lot of work on the hood hinges, their placement/adjustment, and ultimately some trimming of the back edge of the hood to get the hood to line up. But don't worry about getting a perfect gap at first. Just trim enough to clear until you're positive it's where it needs to be.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_1292_markup.jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_1292_markup.jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds)

[Namrups]

I follow every word and agree 100%. I need to slide the hood back toward the body. The issue is the clamp on the PS has no more room to slide back as shown in the pics. I can pull the body in place but when I go to clamp it the clamp pulls it back away again. That 1/4" difference in the cutout is killing me.

[GT_Rich]

Put the u bolt in a vise and give it a little love. Slight bend to skew it should get you what you need.

[Namrups]

Put the u bolt in a vise and give it a little love. Slight bend to skew it should get you what you need.

That's my next step. I have a gentle 5 lb persuader in my drawer.

[Namrups]

I learned two very important lessons today. First is to trust what other builders are telling me and the second is that I am more capable then I give myself credit for.

I really didn't think I was going to be able to get the gaps looking good on the hood. Things just seemed to be too out of wack. Everyone told me that it would all come together, to just keep tweaking it. Well after numerous hours it did!

Hood cowl gap one paint stick wide!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181418&d=1678565351
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181415&d=1678565351

PS pontoon
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181416&d=1678565351

DS pontoon
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181417&d=1678565351

Once I install the guide pins it should line up very well. I'm pleased with it.

[Skuzzy]

Looks pretty dang good to me. Nice work Namrups!

[Namrups]

Looks pretty dang good to me. Nice work Namrups!

Thanks Skuzzy!

[GT_Rich]

Awesome! I went through this a month ago. I know how you feel. Good job.

[Namrups]

Awesome! I went through this a month ago. I know how you feel. Good job.

Thanks!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Good job! :)

Jeff

[Namrups]

Good job! :)

Jeff

Thanks Jeff!!

[Indy Shu]

So, did you trim any of the back edge of the hood to get there?

[Namrups]

So, did you trim any of the back edge of the hood to get there?

Yes. Multiple times. Initially I measured from the edge of the pontoon to the body at 22 1/2 inches (if my memory serves right). That same measurement on the hood was 23". FF intentionally leaves this long. I didn't want to overdo anything so I just shaved off small amounts at a time. The more I took off the better the hood lined up.

[Indy Shu]

Thanks Scott, I’m looking forward to this in the near future. Lol
Btw, I enjoy following along on your build, you’re making great progress!

[Namrups]

Thanks Scott, I’m looking forward to this in the near future. Lol
Btw, I enjoy following along on your build, you’re making great progress!

Thanks Indy. Are you going to have a build thread? It's a great way to have "the pros" looking over your shoulder and keeping you on the right track!

[Namrups]

As with others, my front hinges did not fit the curve of the body. I purchased a block of Delrin from McMaster-Carr and made filler pieces to fill the gap.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181657&d=1679017326

The alignment pins are also complete.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181656&d=1679017326

[burchfieldb]

Wow! That is a big gap. I am guessing mine will be similar.

[Namrups]

Wow! That is a big gap. I am guessing mine will be similar.

It was about 1/2" on the DS and slightly less on the PS.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I've had to make similar wedges:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181674&d=1655129992

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181675&d=1655130024

Jeff