Brandon's 818R Build

[blomb11]

Finally time to begin my journey to building an 818R. I have been learning a lot scouring this forum, build threads, and other technical forums the past year. I bought an EJ207 engine June 2020 and used it as my COVID project to rebuild specifically to put in my build. This was the first time I have taken an engine all the way down to the block and rebuilt it. I then sold my '18 STI in January to buy a truck as a "family" vehicle and to make way for purchasing my kit. Luckily I was able to salvage some items off my STI to set aside for this build. I have always wanted to build a car and have had that goal since high school. Guess the time has finally come to take the plunge.

I just placed my order a couple weeks ago with the completion date of 7/17/21. It seems far off but this will allow me time to get my donor parts, prep them, and get a head start on dieting my harness. My goal is to build a dedicated track and autocross car, but still be able to drive it on the streets. We will see how this pans out on southern California. I did get the S windshield included in my kit.

I have converted the EJ207 over to use USDM electronics so I can use a Cobb AP via OBBII. I had EJ257 intake cams machined, bought all new USDM sensors, created DBW adapter plates, and fitted a USDM STI wiring harness. My original idea was to use all STI parts, but after reading this forum and talking to a few people I am going to be sourcing all of my donor parts from a '06-'07 WRX. Thankfully there is a Subaru wrecking yard in south San Diego I can source everything from.

I am not really looking to fit into a specific race class just yet. My goal is 400hp on E85 at 2000lbs.

Planned Build List:
EJ207 converted to DBW
IAG oil pickup and baffle
Cobb fuel rails and 1050x injectors
Perrin Turbo inlet and ECBS
Delicious Tuning Flex Fuel Kit
Tomei Equal Length header
Legacy Spec B 6sp transmission w/ Comp clutch and light flywheel
AWIC
Oil Cooler
CSF Radiator
Comp Clutch
ATS-V 4 pot Brembos all around
Wilwood pedal assembly

Engine picked up from JDM imported in Long Beach
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Replacing intake cams with machined EJ257 intake cams
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Reassembled first long block with ARP head studs
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Designed, 3D printed prototypes, and machined Aluminum DBW intake adapter plates. Referenced a NASIOC thread on converting 16 bit ECU to 32 bit ECU
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All reassebmled 8 months later and lots of learning
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[Hobby Racer]

Best way to learn is to jump in with both feet and don't look back!

Welcome to the community.

[Sgt.Gator]

Welcome to the insanity!
Yes, you can register your 818R in California. Mine was registered by the original builder in LA and driven to the tracks there. Here's his build thread where he goes thru the effort: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12442-Brando-s-Newbie-818R-Build-Thread.

Are you building to race in a class or just do track days? Have you raced before, and if so was it SCCA or NASA?
I have a couple of thoughts. These are discussed in easier to find form in the R forum.

1) Consider either a dry sump or an arctangent oil pickup.

2) Before you go further on the engine, such as buying a turbo, re-consider the 400 RWHP goal. First off 400 RWHP is a crazy lot of power on the street for a 2,000 lb car. It's hard to control on a race track. Secondly, that HP will kick you into the most expensive race class to compete in, basically all sanctioning bodies have a version of Unlimited. That means Unlimited $$$ to be competitive. At that level your build will cost at least $50K. And ongoing consumables will be very costly, mostly tires.

My advice is head out to your local race track on a race weekend and ask lots of questions. Find a class that your car will fit in, that the drivers seem to like each other. Then build the car to fit in that class. Building the car first then trying to find a class is a very expensive mistake.

We don't have NASA where I race, but if you do have a close look at building to NASA ST-3 rules.

Great to have another R in the works!

[blomb11]

Hi Sgt. Gator,

I appreciate the information and feedback. I am planning for HPDE days at local racetracks in southern California. I do not plan on doing any road racing nor NASA events. I have done SCCA autocross events locally in San Diego with my STI as well as open track days. I am going to focus on HPDE events first to get a good feel for the car and work on the driver mod :o. Maybe down the road later I would consider a specific series like SCCA, OnGrid, GTA, or Time Attack.

1.) I will have to add the drysump to the back burner given its cost. I have upgraded to the IAG oil pick up and baffle. I am going to run an oil cooler and an IAG AOS. I will be monitoring the oil pressure and temps as I have seen many do given the heat build up in the rear bay.

2.) I am using the stock twin scroll on the EJ207, but plan to tune it for E85 so this would put me in the 350-400hp range. I will have the option to run either 91 octane or E85 which would give me some flexibility with power ranges and thus maybe different classes. I am really more interested in building a fun track/autocross focused car.

However, like you said I am going to dig into the different classes some of the groups I have done HPDE days with (OnGRID, SCCA SD Autocross, and AWD Subie Challenge) to see where I would fall.

I have been following all of your build threads so I am going to use a lot of your advice for all things cooling when I get to that point in the build.

I am picking up all of my donor parts this weekend from a local Subaru wrecking yard and hopefully a Legacy Spec B 6spd transmission. Then the fun will begin as I prep for my kit delivery.

[Sgt.Gator]

I hope you know the LGT Spec B 6 speed has no LSD. With even 300 RWP you will be spinning one tire to shreds. At 400HP/TQ the power will be entirely useless. So factor in another $1,000 at least for an LSD.
It also doesn't have the built in pump, so if you want to run a trans cooler you will need an external pump too.

[Hobby Racer]

I hope you know the LGT Spec B 6 speed has no LSD. With even 300 RWP you will be spinning one tire to shreds. At 400HP/TQ the power will be entirely useless. So factor in another $1,000 at least for an LSD.
It also doesn't have the built in pump, so if you want to run a trans cooler you will need an external pump too.

I have a JDM Legacy Spec B 6 speed and it does have the internal pump. I think it goes by the year, 2007 and earlier 6 speeds usually have the internal pump and the newer units do not have them.

I track my 818R with 250hp and no LSD with no issues. A lot depends on your suspension setup and the types of tracks you drive. Autocross and slow tight turns are where the LSD really shines.

[blomb11]

Correct I have been following Hobby Racer's build and his 6spd FWD driver conversion post. I am looking to pick up a 2005 legacy 6spd transmission this week which has the internal pump. You can see the hard lines on the outside of the unit.

I am going to have to work with my local tuner and maybe reduce my hp goals. I will have to feel it and I notice the VCP differential is not working then I will have to upgrade to an LSD like you mention. All autocross in SD have been closed due to COVID. Only the local tracks in SoCAL have been running this past year.

Lots to think about :) and I appreciate your comments because you all have way more experience than I do just starting out.

[Sgt.Gator]

I thought you were using a USDM LGT Spec B, none of which have the oil pump.
As for the VCP...If you are looking at a tranny chart the 2005 JDM Spec B lists 2 VCD, But neither control the front CV axles. There is the Viscous Center diff that connects the front to the rear of an AWD Spec B. It has no role in controlling the front diff (which becomes your RWD diff). The second Viscous Diff listed is not in the transmission, it's in the R160 rear diff of an AWD Spec B.
If you want an LSD you'll have to add it.

Hobby knows his stuff. We just have a slight disagreement on the value of a LSD. It's funny, I usually have disagreements with builders on this forum and NASIOC over the value difference between a Cusco plated LSD vs a Torsen/Quaife LSD. I'm in the Torsen/Quaife camp, but many folks swear the Cusco plated style is faster.

And keep in mind you are getting a 15 year old tranny out of a JDM car. I bought a JDM Forrester STI 6 speed and installed it in my first LGT race car. It worked for a couple of years but the syncros were going out. They can be a great value but they can also be a pig in a poke.

I don't mess around with trannys myself. Zach at ZF Design builds all my trannys now. He's fateo66 on the FF forum but is rarely here. He specializes in Subie trannys and knows the 818 issues too.

[Hobby Racer]

Hobby knows his stuff. We just have a slight disagreement on the value of a LSD. It's funny, I usually have disagreements with builders on this forum and NASIOC over the value difference between a Cusco plated LSD vs a Torsen/Quaife LSD. I'm in the Torsen/Quaife camp, but many folks swear the Cusco plated style is faster.


I actually love the Torsen/Quaife LSD. Had one in my 5 speed. I just wanted to try the 6 speed with the open diff to see if the LSD was worth the upgrade. With 250hp it was not needed on the tracks I go to. Having said that, with my recent power bump I will most likely be adding a Quaife to trans sooner or later ;)



And keep in mind you are getting a 15 year old tranny out of a JDM car. I bought a JDM Forrester STI 6 speed and installed it in my first LGT race car. It worked for a couple of years but the syncros were going out. They can be a great value but they can also be a pig in a poke.


Yeah, its nice if you can inspect the unit prior to purchasing it. I was able to look mine over before plunking down my cash so I was confident it was a good unit.

[blomb11]

Yeah, its nice if you can inspect the unit prior to purchasing it. I was able to look mine over before plunking down my cash so I was confident it was a good unit.

Yes I am going to pick it up locally so I will make sure to inspect its condition first. It is a at a great price of $1200 so if if need to get a LSD costwise it would put me still a little less than an STI 6spd. My budget is very tight starting out so my goal is to get it running and to the track then I can work out the kinks and or upgrades. However, that being said having a good starting plan will help in the end...

[blomb11]

I was able to pick up my 07 WRX donor parts last week from a local Subaru wrecker and an 05 Legacy Spec B 6 speed transmission. I got luckily and they all came from the same vehicle. This week I was able to spend some time cleaning all of the parts. I was not planning on replacing the wheel bearings, but I needed to disassemble them to clean and paint the spindles. So I ordered new bearing and extended ARP wheel studs to make it a complete refresh. I was able to convert the steering rack over to manual and cleaned it up. I am not sure if I was supposed to try and save as much fluid as I could or not, but there was some that leaked out in the removed lines.
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I then started the strenuous process of dieting my harness. I am more of a mechanical person so this is a little nerve racking, but with the FSM wiring diagrams and then this forum I am going to try tackling it myself. I was able to ID every connector and then began to remove all of the loom. It definitely makes a mess of your hands with all of the old tape residue. Next I will work on deleting each subsystem I do not need. I have some time before my kit comes in July so I am glad I am getting a jump on this now while I have the garage floor space to lay it all out.
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I am not sure why my pictures end up upside down when posted. They all appear fine with I view them on my computer.

[Ajzride]

I am not sure why my pictures end up upside down when posted. They all appear fine with I view them on my computer.

99% of upside down pictures are from an iPhone. If you hold the phone do that you can use the volume button for the shutter (which apple enabled years ago) the picture will be upside down. You have to put the volume button towards the ground. If you have them upside down, you can rotate 90 degrees in edit, save, then rotate back.

[fletch]

If you're using a Mac, I have an automator script I can share which fixes the phone rotation problem.

[blomb11]

99% of upside down pictures are from an iPhone. If you hold the phone do that you can use the volume button for the shutter (which apple enabled years ago) the picture will be upside down. You have to put the volume button towards the ground. If you have them upside down, you can rotate 90 degrees in edit, save, then rotate back.

Gotcha okay yea I am using my iPhone to take pictures. I will try to remember to rotate it next time thanks.

[jforand]

I struggled with the iphone picture rotation as well. I simply take ALL pics in landscape mode with the top of the phone rotated to the left (CCW). They upload fine if you do that, no editing necessary.

On the steering rack, several of us (me included) have removed all the fluid. I ended up disassembling and grinding down the piston as to allow the air to easy pass right/left as the rack moves. I ground off the threaded hose ports and welded them up. I then greased it all up and reassembled and it seems to be perfect with no future leaking issues and I don't have to push fluid through the small bypass tube anymore.

[blomb11]

I made a lot of progress the last two weeks working on dieting my harness. I think I have about 30 hours on it now. I tried to take my time and used the FSM wiring diagrams and schematics to work my way through all of the subsystems. I reference a lot of the wire dieting threads for inspiration like Mechie, K3LAG, and FFRWRX. A couple miss cuts along the way required some extra spices. I hope I left the right ones intact and it will start when I get to that point. Removing all of the loom and old electrical tape was quite messy, but now I have quite the pile of it all and lots of extra wire.

I deleted the following: ABS, airbag, A/C, secondary air pump, keyless entry, all doors, and all interior lights. I was able to cut down on a lot of the relays, but I still need to clean them up. I only have a couple wires left on the body control module so I may look at how to remove it as well. I think I am done now until it’s in the car and the engine fires up.

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[blomb11]

I have been working on a few smaller details the last couple week until the kit comes in Aug. I replaced all of the wheel bearings, completed the fronts, but am waiting to fit check the rear calipers before pressing in the rear hubs. Thanks to JForand for the Cadillac rear brake adapters they look great and so far fit nicely.
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Next I started to use Hobby's FWD conversion thread for 6MT transmissions. I have removed the center diff and have it now separated. I need to cut out the female gear at the top of the center diff and then weld it to the gear per his thread. I am waiting for Harbor Freight to put their welders on sale :rolleyes: so I may just have to pull the trigger and do some practicing before completing this. However, this got me thinking about the previous comments from Gator about the open front diff in the 05 LGT 6MT. Since I am already working on the trans and started the disassembly I am now planning on upgrading the front diff. Since I want to be able to street drive, autox, and track the car a Quaife LSD seems like a good fit. I have seen quite a few people here are running them with good results and seems like a clutch style like a Cusco 1.5 may be too much. I have been reading through the FSM to understand the install and think I will take the plunge to do the upgrade myself. Plus this LSD upgrade is not in the planned budget so it will help save the cost of paying someone for the install. I am hoping I will not need too many of the specialty tools mentioned in the FSM, but rather maybe can make them like Hindsight did in his LSD stickie.

If you have any tips or tricks they would be much appreciated!

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[fletch]

I followed this thread when we had our transmission open. We didn’t add an LSD but some of our changes warranted a ring gear backlash check. Good luck.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?16706-Limited-slip-installation-instructions-with-pics

[blomb11]

I followed this thread when we had our transmission open. We didn’t add an LSD but some of our changes warranted a ring gear backlash check. Good luck.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?16706-Limited-slip-installation-instructions-with-pics

Thanks I have read through this one which got me started on my investigation. Unfortunately the steps for the 6MT vs the 5MT disassembly are quite different, but still a good source to reference.

[jforand]

Looking good.

Hobby did a great job on his transmission and sadly is going back through it now for a different reason. We both ended up doing very similar deletions. He went with a set-screw collar for retaining the front/rear shaft coupler in place. I opted to cut a grove and use a snap ring with a washer. You can see it and a description of how I cut it around post #22

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?35230-JForand-Atlanta-Build

The original intent was to drill and tap the center, but the shaft is hardened and anything but a cutting wheel really struggles to make a scratch.

[blomb11]

Just got the call my kit is being picked up next week and should be here 8/5-8/7. Time to organize the garage and complete the transmission. I was able to install the Quaife LSD, get it back together, and complete the FWD conversion just need to cut the tail housing. Full detailed list to follow with pictures. I started Go pro filing and quickly learned I am no Vlogger haha.

[jforand]

One warning on the tail housing. FFR tell you to Indian Shellac in the aluminum plugs to seal up the tail housing. I found that did not work. One good day at the track and the round (~2" dia) disc started to work its way out of the tail housing (toward falling back into the transmission) I think Hobby pointed it out to me as a leaking blank off plate as it had brown around the edges. In reality what they were seeing was the Indian Shellac by Permatex as FFR suggested; however, upon close examination the aluminum disc had crept inward by almost 1/8" from its original location. I can only assume that with repeated heat cycling it worked its way in, much like a nail pop on your home's siding.

I strongly recommend you weld it in place.

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What it used to look like (inside view). The stuff turns into something like solidified tree sap (think Jurassic Park Amber mosquito). BTW, if you have to remove it Acetone works wonders, dissolves it right away.

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What it looks like now.

[FFRWRX]

Besides, I don't think you can call it "Indian" Shellac any more..........not politically correct! :o

[blomb11]

Perfect timing and thanks for the feedback! I am cutting the tail housing this week. Guess I will see how good the aluminum welding rods work from HF. I don't have an aluminum welder unfortunately.
https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-low-temperature-aluminum-welding-rods-44810.html

[DSR-3]

Guess I will see how good the aluminum welding rods work from HF. I don't have an aluminum welder unfortunately.
https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-low-temperature-aluminum-welding-rods-44810.html
I suggest that you save your time, money, and not make a mess of your parts. I had the same thought for some trim parts, and all I got was a mess, a refund, and some alumimum "backer" rods for future bad ideas... JB weld is great for this application.

[Hobby Racer]

While I have not tried this personally (I welded mine) but others have used common freeze plugs for engines. Bring your tail housing into your auto parts store and size up the closest fitting freeze plug and tap it in from the inside. The plug will wedge itself into the aluminum, you may still want to use some type of sealant to ensure a leak proof seal.

But in the end, welding would be the best seal. Any shop can weld it up in no time for cheap if you do not have the right equipment.

[jforand]

I did a small freeze plug on the hole associated with the wire penetration for the center differential that is no longer there. The plastic was brittle and I just deleted it entirely. It has work perfectly so far and looks just like what the factory did for the deletion of the Speed (VSS) sensor toward the front. My concern with the plug is that as the diameter gets bigger, so does the side wall depth. It is a pretty deep recess, but after my experience I like the welding.

I only have a MIG and no gas for the aluminum spoon gun, have yet to try aluminum.

I simply typed "welding near me" in the iphone maps app and started calling the dots that appeared in the order of closest to farthest. It took three phone numbers and $40. Now that the 50 cent plug costs $40.50 is can't possible fail:D

[blomb11]

I have to admit I was very nervous to start this task. I have never done any work on transmissions and it was difficult to find a YouTube video or other how tos covering a Subaru 6sp tear down. I read (multiple times) the LSD install stickie by Hindsight and even printed out part of it to set the backlash. So I printed out the whole 6sp transmission section of the FSM and decided to jump in. At the time I had already removed the tail housing and the center diff so the back end was already exposed. I also followed Hobby's 6sp FWD conversion post and had cut off the top part of the center diff to have my 2 pieces to weld together to slave the driven and pinion gears. I was using a Go-Pro while I did the tear down to record video to revisit or maybe even compile a how to video, but quickly realized I am no Vlogger. Once I received the Quaife QDH3Y LSD and the gasket and seal 32001AA210 kit I was ready to go.
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I did find a NASIOC post about 6spd gear upgrade and it has IMGUR links to photos which worked at the time, but now seem to be broken. This helped to get better visuals, but all in all the FSM was pretty good. As always there were some steps that were not explicitly mentioned that I learned in the end. It was pretty straight forward to remove the oil pump assembly, neutral spring from the striking rod, and remove the transmission case. I did miss the 3 nuts that go with the 8 bolts to hold the transmission case to the adapter plate. Should have known when something requires a lot of force it is probably due to a hidden bolt/nut rather than trying to use force to separate the case. I was wedging a blade around the perimeter because I thought it was superior RTV, but nope just missed 3 nuts and then it came right off.
https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2831498&page=2
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I continued to follow the FSM once the case was off because this is when the NASIOC links went dead. Once I was able to figure out which was 4th gear and get it shifted then I was able to be prepared to remove the reverse idle, reverse assembly, striking rod, pinion gear, and main driven gear sets. One thing here to note on the reassembly once you put the gear sets and striking rod back in is to note the offset. There are 2 pilot holes on the transmission case which you use to check to make sure it is still in neutral once the case is back on. These 2 holes are ~36mm (IIRC) apart which correlates to the distance you need offset the main gear clutch forks. When you drop in the clutch forks they just drop in and rest on the adapter plate, but the reverse clutch fork seem to always be at the correct height. So once I reinstalled the case for the first time I notice the bottom portion of the striking rod was too low and you could not see it through the lower pilot hole on the transmission case. So you need to make sure all of the clutch forks are shifted into neutral per the FSM and then raise them up to meet the reverse fork to get the outer lobes to be ~36mm apart and align with the pilot holes. You can see the correct offset in the first picture because this is before they were removed and in the right place. I forgot to take a picture of it reassembled.
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I was able to lean the transmission down to be horizontal again which allowed me to gently pull out the gears. NOTE this may cause a mess if you have a lot of oil still in it which I did have to clean up a bit of. I was able to use an adjustable spanner wrench to remove the sun dials which hold the front differential in place. Surprisingly it worked really well, but you do need to be careful because you could break the teeth if you don't find one of the grooves. I was able to "gently" pull off the bearings to reuse them and kept the outer races installed in the sun dials. I checked to make sure the bearings still spun nicely and cleaned them off for reinstall. I replaced the oil seals in the sun dials. I heated up the bearings to 200F in my oven, not sure my wife appreciated that, but it worked really well to allow just enough clearance to slip the bearing onto the LSD. Note for the 6sp it did come with special spacers so I put them onto the LSD per their drawing before the bearings. There was some gaps here, but these were taken up when I performed the bearing preload when I set the backlash. Here is the picture of the LSD installed back into the housing. I used the same heat treatment to reinstall the pinion gear onto the LSD. Note the bolts used to hold the pinion gear to the LSD are E20 and not Torx. A puller tool came in handy to remove the oil gear on the VCD housing, remove the carrier bearings on the old front diff, remove the pinion gear from the old front diff and in the end pull or compress the oil gear back on.
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Since I did not touch anything on the pinion shaft I was able to reinstall it as is and did not need to adjust and spacers. This was also noted in the LSD install stickie so I went with it. Here is where I found it easier to follow the stickie rather than the FSM to set the backlash. The FSM language was a little vague an the pictures did not help too much, but the stickie was perfect. I came up with a similar set up to set a dial indicator on the pinion gear, a vice grip on the pinion shaft, and a weight to hold the shaft fixed. It took me 5-6 tries and adjustments until I was satisfied with my setting. The dial indicator was hard to set and seemed to move on me so this is maybe where using one attached to a steel plate would have been better. I was able to get the backlash set to 0.060" which is right in spec and was able to repeat the measurement. I also set the bearing preload at the same time. It spins nicely and has a good feel to the backlash (ha with my novice experience).
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Working backwards to get everything reinstalled took a little time. Mostly due to what I learned about the offset of the clutch forks from the adapter plate so I could shift through all of the gears nicely. I did have to clean off some RTV learning this, but luckily I caught it before it had set. This was where I stopped to recording video, but you could use the early part of the video to work backwards and I could talk through it if I upload it someday. I did need an extra set of hands to line up the main driven gear set, pinion gear, and clutch forks to get them all back into the adapter plate. Understanding how the striking rod worked to shift through the gears took a few minutes to grasp but you can figure it out. During the reassembly I went through and replaced all of the copper washers along the way. Luckily I can say reassembled I was able to shift through all 6 gears.

Part of this process was completing the 6sp FWD conversion documented by Hobby. So as mentioned I was able to follow his steps and cut off the top of the VCD housing and needed to weld it to the gear that fit on the end of the pinion shaft. I had tried welding once or twice in high school, but never got any skills. So I waiting for the Easy Flux 125 to go on sale at HF, bought some junk metal scrap, and started practicing. I still need practice, but I was able to get some decent practice welds and get the right settings. So I was nervous to apply this new skill to real parts that need to be structurally welded together, but decided to go for it. Since the parts are pretty thick steel it helped to be able to add extra heat/material to offset my lack of skill. I think it came out pretty clean and a decent weld for my first part. I then got a 1" ID collar, added 2 more set screws to it, and ground flat spots in the pinion shaft where the set screws would sit. As mentioned in Hobby's write up I also cut off the extra portion of the pinion shaft that is no longer needed. I dropped the FWD conversion onto the gears, the collar on top, blue Loctite to the set screws, and it is now installed.
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At this point the transmission is back together and just needs the tail housing to be reinstalled. To do so I need to cut off the 4.75" as directed by FFR and then either weld in or JB weld in plugs to cover the holes. I then plan to paint the whole transmission with Eastwood Acrylic Alumna Blast paint so it will look newish again :cool:.

[Hobby Racer]

Great job. Glad to see others are tackling this.

[jforand]

You have a left over outer bearing race pressed in just above your coupler. My 6MT did not have the oil pump as was a little different, but I also left that race in. I tried to extract it a few different ways and failed. I believe the best way to get it out would be to burn some hot weld on the race and the overall dimension will shrink a bit when the welds cool. If done correctly it will likely fall out, but I got cold feet on trying that extreme of a measure. Also the trans is heavy and was in the basement and the welder (also heavy) was up in the garage.

Anyway, there is a piece of plastic in there. I was able to pull mine out without pulling the race. Just make sure you don't seal it up with something not held in place. Yours might be held in by the bearing race.

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[blomb11]

Thanks Justin for pointing that out. I gave it a look at I would have to remove the oil pump and plate again to remove it. It doesn’t seem like it will cause a problem is I left it. Is this true do you think?

I bought the aluminum rods because I was curious and well they do work but best on think aluminum. It was really hard to hear up the tail housing to get the rod to melt. So I got an aluminum disc to fill the hole and JB weld to hold it all together. Not as pretty as a weld but gets the job done. Pics to follow after it cures.

[Hobby Racer]

Thanks Justin for pointing that out. I gave it a look at I would have to remove the oil pump and plate again to remove it. It doesn’t seem like it will cause a problem is I left it. Is this true do you think?


My race and plastic piece has been in for 2 years with no issues. Like Justin said, you would need to use a lot of heat to get the race out and you might distort things. Best to leave it alone.

[jforand]

I think you’ll be fine. The race should really press in there hard enough to hold itself put. If it was truly reliant on the bearing to hold it in place it would cause issues eventually by spinning or the like. Mine was left in place as well, but I was able to pull the plastic piece out from inside it though. I guess yours (and Hobby’s) is held in there by the race itself. Mine was easily pulled out.

I guess there are a few subtle differences between your trans with a pump and mine. Honestly, I am envious of the pump. It makes a trans cooler SO easy and inexpensive.

[blomb11]

Finished up the tail housing to complete the transmission. I used a chop saw to cut off the end of the tail housing measured to the 4.75" specs in the FFR 6 speed FWD conversion instructions. I ordered a 2.5" OD aluminum disc from McMaster Carr and sanded it down to fit into the opening. I used JB Weld to secure it in place and plug up the other openings to make sure it is sealed. Lastly I used Eastwood Acrylic Alumna Blast to paint the exterior of the transmission to cover up all of the previous beauty marks and think it came out pretty well. Sorry for the upside down pics again I will figure it out one day...
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Just confirmed with Stewart yesterday my delivery date is scheduled for this Saturday! Now the race will be on to see how much I can get done before my wife has our second kiddo. Her due date is 10/6, but out first came 5 weeks early so really hoping it is closer to the due date this time. :D

[jforand]

Looks good. I should paint mine.

Good luck with the second child!

[blomb11]

And the day has finally come…it’s kinda crazy. Sure filled up the garage real quick and now the real fun begins!
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[blomb11]

Finally got everything unpacked, inventoried, and hung all of the body panels out of the way. I have a lot of items still on order :/ so gonna have to kind of work out of order while things come in.

One question did come up. The manual says to cover the openings under the fuel tank when fitting the underside aluminum panel. Should I make sure to cover up the holes and the slots? Or just the slots? Not sure if any of these features are supposed to be a drain or weep holes.
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[Bob_n_Cincy]

Finally got everything unpacked, inventoried, and hung all of the body panels out of the way. I have a lot of items still on order :/ so gonna have to kind of work out of order while things come in.

One question did come up. The manual says to cover the openings under the fuel tank when fitting the underside aluminum panel. Should I make sure to cover up the holes and the slots? Or just the slots? Not sure if any of these features are supposed to be a drain or weep holes.
152080

I don't think the aluminum covers those slots.
I think the slots are there to let the gas out if you have a tank leak. I wouldn't want pooled gas leaking into the cockpit.
There are slots in the cockpit that I use as drain holes when it rains.
Bob
Bob

[blomb11]

Yea that’s what I would think too. I don’t want gas pooling up either. So the manual must have a typo in it and should say “do not” cover the slots. I will make sure the panel doesn’t cover them. Glad I asked first!
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[blomb11]

Completed my inventory with minor issues so just waiting for FFR to get back to me. I am missing my Wilwood front panels which is keeping me from finishing the front firewall. I am working around that to put the front and rear suspension together, but I am still waiting on my Koni shocks. Hopefully my missing parts will ship soon.

I mounted the front under tray panel, paint it white on the inside piece, and drilled all of the holes for the center under tray panel as well. I am not mounting it yet because I am probably cutting out the X and will weld in an H pattern to get my seat low enough to pass the broomstick test.
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I can’t seem to find in the manual where the outer nuts on the upper control arms are tightened. They also are very hard to tighten and I see strings of what looks like paint in the threads. I wonder if I need to clean the threads to lock the nuts. Anyone else have the problem or am I doing something wrong?
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Can someone show a picture of the left or right race dead pedal? I think mine are missing because there are not panels where I thought the dead pedals go inside the frame.
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[roadrashrob]

For the outer nuts on the upper control arm, Page 104 in the manual has footnotes with hand symbols which advise on the endplay and bolt threads you need.

I didn't have much trouble getting them on, so you may want to just clean the threads a bit. As they are lock nuts, I don't see a real issue with them being "snug" to tighten.

[roadrashrob]

Can someone show a picture of the left or right race dead pedal? I think mine are missing because there are not panels where I thought the dead pedals go inside the frame.
152371

The dead pedal sheet metal should be in with the "packaged aluminum". Did you inventory every piece?

[blomb11]

The dead pedal sheet metal should be in with the "packaged aluminum". Did you inventory every piece?

Yes I have the dead pedals in the package aluminum box, but on my mounted sheet for the 818R I have a left and right "race" dead pedal. So I am trying to see if they are the same or different. I have a lot of S components that I won't be using since I am building an R. I would have thought FFR would have cleaned up the BOMs a bit more to save parts and cost...

[J R Jones]

Brandon,
Your second photo shows the UCA on top of the mount tabs. Just in case... it should be between the upper and lower tabs.
BTW stuff on the threads could be previous thread locking compound, maybe a pre-apply. I would clean the threads and use Loctite.
FWIW I find the R & L box sections at the corners of my "S" footwells too big to be effective dead pedals.

[blomb11]

Your second photo shows the UCA on top of the mount tabs. Just in case... it should be between the upper and lower tabs.
FWIW I find the R & L box sections at the corners of my "S" footwells too big to be effective dead pedals.

Yes, but the R mounts the UCA on top of the tabs and uses a spacer or washer stack to fill the tabs. Then you need to use longer grade 8 bolts for the new required length.

[blomb11]

I added some grease to the UCA fittings as stated and then tightened the end nuts with the UCA attached to the frame. I was able to seat the nuts, but I am still surprised at the friction build up. Both the nut and socket were quite warm by the time I got it tight. Not sure if it is overstay from paint or a coating for thread-locking.

[blomb11]

What is the recommended rear firewall sheetmetal thickness? Does it need to be 0.125”?

[blomb11]

For other R builders, did you install the left/right interior aluminum panels or just use the side intrusion panels? The ones I have are clearly for the S, but maybe I will just trim them along the frame to make them fit better.
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[Hobby Racer]

For other R builders, did you install the left/right interior aluminum panels or just use the side intrusion panels?


As I said in my PM reply, I did not install them. I think it looks better if you just cover and use the intrusion panels that come with the R kit.

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[Santiago]

For other R builders, did you install the left/right interior aluminum panels or just use the side intrusion panels? The ones I have are clearly for the S, but maybe I will just trim them along the frame to make them fit better.
152885

Just added weight. ;)

On the rear firewall question, were you asking about an engine-side firewall or the cabin-side? I don't know of anyone who has not used the FFR supplied cabin-side wall. And unless FFR has seen fit to include one in recent kits, seems most folks are going with .125" thick aluminum (pref. 6060 or 7075) to make their own engine-side wall.

Best,
-j

[blomb11]

On the rear firewall question, were you asking about an engine-side firewall or the cabin-side? I don't know of anyone who has not used the FFR supplied cabin-side wall. And unless FFR has seen fit to include one in recent kits, seems most folks are going with .125" thick aluminum (pref. 6060 or 7075) to make their own engine-side wall.

Best,
-j

Thanks for your input too...more scrap metal for brackets or something. Yes, I was referring to the engine side rear firewall. I went ahead with 0.080 6061-T6 sheet and have been fitting that up this week. I definitely plan to use the firewall wall over the fuel tank.

[jforand]

For other R builders, did you install the left/right interior aluminum panels or just use the side intrusion panels? The ones I have are clearly for the S, but maybe I will just trim them along the frame to make them fit better.
152885


I did not have those in my kit so I made mine. I did not like the idea of the big gaps between the exterior intrusion panels and the interior FFR firewall. Not sure if yours close those side gaps or not. I figured if there was an issue I wanted all the splashing and spillage to be contained behind the fire wall. Yes, there are penetrations in the wall, but they are in less critical areas in my opinion. In the middle and/or higher up. The ends is where the sloshing and such will go. It certainly isn’t liquid tight, but I feel better. I thought about some sealant, but have not gotten to the point where I am confident it isn’t coming back out for a while. If you look close, the top isn’t bolted currently as I have no engine in the car!

Had one leak from the crappy gaskets that came with the level sensor and fuel pump parts. Chunk those and get proper o rings! This would have been a different answer for me if I was not using the stock FFR tank.

I also threw a rear, engine side (but inside the cockpit) fire wall. I determined it was super easy to slide a sheet down along the back wall just behind the tank. you can also see that at the top of the pic. the sheet metal is sandwiched between the chassis and the FFR fire wall when all bolted up. Tank holds the bottom nicely. No need to pull the engine (which was in at the time) to do it and/or go around suspension mounts or the like. I was getting way to much trash thrown up on top of the tank and into the wiring for my liking.

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[blomb11]

I have been drilling holes for days in the right side of the front firewall, side intrusion panels, and the rear engine-side firewall. I am on my 3rd drill bit and already running low on the 1/8" rivets so I will have to get more eventually. I am still up in the air if I want to make my own internal side pieces like Justin shows in his last picture or eliminate them like others have done.

I finished the rear engine-side firewall in 3 pieces and added a layer of Thermo-Tec aluminum heat shield and quickly noticed my lines were a bit off, but it still looks pretty good. I will seal the lower 2 panels with some silicone on the cockpit side. I have the rear suspension hung and have started on the front. I can only work on the front right since I am still waiting for the special sheetmetal pieces for the Wilwood pedals. I am a bit confused the R instructions doesn't specify what type of bolt is used on the rear bushing on the front LCA. Is this supposed to be a 1/2" or 5/8" bolt? The washer stack it says to use are 5/8, but in the pictures it looks like a 1/2" bolt. The holes in the frame tabs are ~0.58" so it does not seem like a 5/8" bolt is supposed to go there, but I want to ask to make sure. I have it mocked up right now with 1/2" bolts from the supplied hardware, but they seem too long so I might buy a shorter bolt if it is supposed to be 1/2.

I also had to switch the rear bushings on the front LCAs to make sure they aligned with the frame left/right tabs. This meant I had to undo the 184 ft-lb nuts. Now that the front firewall is in there I need to retorque this nut before I install the LCA. Do these rubber bushing need any grease (small amount of lithium/chassis grease)? The FSM does not say to add any, but they seemed really tight when they were torqued because I could not move them. Just curious if it would help or if that is a no no.

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[Sgt.Gator]

I am a bit confused the R instructions doesn't specify what type of bolt is used on the rear bushing on the front LCA. Is this supposed to be a 1/2" or 5/8" bolt? The washer stack it says to use are 5/8, but in the pictures it looks like a 1/2" bolt. The holes in the frame tabs are ~0.58" so it does not seem like a 5/8" bolt is supposed to go there, but I want to ask to make sure. I have it mocked up right now with 1/2" bolts from the supplied hardware, but they seem too long so I might buy a shorter bolt if it is supposed to be 1/2.

Believe it or not it's Metric for the OEM size donor bolt!

IMHO switch all the crappy FF supplied bolts for AN bolts and OEM suspension bolts.

See my build thread starting at Post #344.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26054-Gator-s-818R&p=458587&viewfull=1#post458587

[blomb11]

I remember reading your post about the fasteners when you went through your suspension. That is why I bought my own fasteners for my rear and some of the front suspension to get the proper grip lengths. I have been pretty disappointed with the FFR fasteners and would have thought a little more engineering went into the grip lengths. Not to mention none of them are marked so I am measuring out each one to figure what size and length they are. I am so used to using metric on my previous Subarus it’s kind of thrown me for a loop on this build so far. Fastener costs can add up quick I wish I had a bigger budget to use all AN fasteners or switch to all metric. I will upgrade where it makes sense.

[blomb11]

Continuing to jump around as I wait for my missing parts to arrive. I did the cylinder 4 cooling mod, installed the Wilwood pedal box, and mocked up the steering column. Looks more like a car now with the steering in. I found I am missing the Wilwood pedals somehow so FFR is looking to send me some possibly directly from Wilwood.
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I started mocking up the fuel tank so I can cut out the fuel filler hole in my rear firewall. I noticed the fuel pump and sender seem to overlap a bit, but then I reread what Hobby did with the hydramat so I will make similar mods to make it all fit. I am going to run a DW300 or AEM340 fuel pump for E85.
153595

Next up is assembling the trans to the engine now that my clutch and flywheel are showing up this week. Then I can drop her in and start working on fabricating the lowered trans mount. :cool:

[J R Jones]

My 2002 donor oil pan bottom is 1.2 inches below the frame. I am considering raising the engine vs dropping the transaxle.
Eventually I will repower and that will not expose the pan in this manner.
jim

[blomb11]

It has been a busy month with the birth of my son :) so time working on the kit has taken a pause for a while. I was able to sneak in a few hours here and there while I was home on leave. I was able to install an Xclutch lightened flywheel, McLeod Racing clutch, and mate the 6sp transmission to the engine. I spent a lot of time trying to align the clutch disc so be able to seat the trans. I am not sure how people do this when everything is still in the car when I struggled with everything exposed. I am going to blame it on being a newbie since this was the first time installing a clutch and mating a trans.

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My next challenge (free time permitting) is to drop the drivetrain into the chassis and begin to mock up the trans mount. I have seen how critical it is to restore the trans angle closer to the OEM -7 deg. I have looked at Gator's thread a lot and will aim to get 3-3.5" drop resulting is -1 to -2 pitch down if possible. My question is does the trans mount need to be isolated? Or can it be hard mounted? I think there needs to be some bushings in there so wondering if I should try and use a Group N trans mount or fab something similar to Hobby. I will also check to see how the OEM oil pan sits and mock up the headers to see if there will be any clearance issues to the lower frame.

Gator (assuming you see this) did you use the original trans mount with the urethane bushing? Do you have a rubber or fixed mount?
154939

[lance corsi]

Let’s go Brandon!

[blomb11]

I had a productive 1.5 hrs while the kids thankfully napped and my wife escaped to Target. I got the drivetrain in the chassis for the first time! I did it alone with the hoist and it was not too bad just had to take my time. I repurposed some old pool noodles to try and help protect the frame from being scratched. As others have mentioned I did notice the oil pan and oil filter hang low below the frame. I do have an oil filter sandwich plate so this does make it a little worse. Also the 6sp trans oil pan hits the frame in the rear. I was planning on modding the frame to lower the rear of the trans to address the trans oiling concerns. I have learned the pre '08 6spd use forced lubrication so they do not suffer from the overheating issue as does the 5spd. So with this it seems better to raise the engine rather than lower the trans to address these issues.

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I made sure my frame was level first and then took a measurement at the tail of the trans to see my nominal tail angle. With no adjustment the nominal trans tail is ~5* up. I raised the engine and placed 2x4 blocks under the engine mounts to see what a 1.5" increase would do. This brings the trans tails to 0*-0.5* down while moving the engine oil pan/filter above the frame and also giving some clearance to the trans oil pan (~0.125").

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My initial thought to raising the engine would be to add spacers between the block and the engine mounts. I am thinking 1.5" aluminum spacers at each bolt 2x per engine mount so 4 spacers total. I would need increase the length of the bolts given the spacer length and use a higher grade bolt. Since this is a clamped load (engine mount to block) I think adding a metal spacer would be okay from a structural/vibration standpoint. I welcome feedback on this approach if I am mistaken.

Then once I have these made and installed I can work on creating the trans mount. I like the way Hobby created his 6spd mount so I may leverage a similar design.

[Hobby Racer]

To clarify, are you going to modify the frame under the trans pump to allow it to sit down further? If not you will need to raise the trans mount as well as the engine mounts.

IMHO you should make the frame mods to sink the trans down so it does not require spacers. This will in turn minimize the spacers needed under the motor mounts as well.

[blomb11]

To clarify, are you going to modify the frame under the trans pump to allow it to sit down further? If not you will need to raise the trans mount as well as the engine mounts.

IMHO you should make the frame mods to sink the trans down so it does not require spacers. This will in turn minimize the spacers needed under the motor mounts as well.

You mentioned to me to raise the motor and try to not modify the frame under the trans to keep the rigidity and not mess with having to cut into the diffuser. I would still need to modify the trans mount (make it shorter) and add tabs to the X plate at the rear of the frame similarly to what you did with your 6spd. Is this not the case now?

[Hobby Racer]

You mentioned to me to raise the motor and try to not modify the frame under the trans to keep the rigidity and not mess with having to cut into the diffuser. I would still need to modify the trans mount (make it shorter) and add tabs to the X plate at the rear of the frame similarly to what you did with your 6spd. Is this not the case now?

I thought you were talking about modifying the frame to allow the trans to sit below the frame, protruding into the diffusor are like Gator has done. What I and others have done is modify the frame to allow the sump to not rest on the "X" brace section see the pics in my thread here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?23199-John-s-EZ36R-H6-818R-Build&p=391561&viewfull=1#post391561)to see how my "X" section looks different than the stock version. Other have done different mods that accomplish the same thing.

You can modify the frame in the rear "X" section to allow the pump sump to fit down into the frame WITHOUT cutting into the diffuser. I believe everyone that has installed a 6 speed has done some form of this modification and it is what I would recommend.

Sorry if I confused you earlier :o

[lance corsi]

I cut off the factory mounts and made a pair 1.25” taller then welded them in place. Group n trans mount didn’t need modifications but I’m running a 5 sp. the taller motor mounts gave space below to incorporate my solid shifter linkage.

[blomb11]

I thought you were talking about modifying the frame to allow the trans to sit below the frame, protruding into the diffusor are like Gator has done. What I and others have done is modify the frame to allow the sump to not rest on the "X" brace section see the pics in my thread here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?23199-John-s-EZ36R-H6-818R-Build&p=391561&viewfull=1#post391561)to see how my "X" section looks different than the stock version. Other have done different mods that accomplish the same thing.

You can modify the frame in the rear "X" section to allow the pump sump to fit down into the frame WITHOUT cutting into the diffuser. I believe everyone that has installed a 6 speed has done some form of this modification and it is what I would recommend.

Sorry if I confused you earlier :o

Ah okay I see what you mean now. Yes at first it was to have it sit down in the diffuser. I forgot about the earlier posts you referenced. I have some clearance now if the motor is raised 1.25” but it’s not much. I get what you mean about cutting the X out. I still need to raise the motor in the front.


I cut off the factory mounts and made a pair 1.25” taller then welded them in place. Group n trans mount didn’t need modifications but I’m running a 5 sp. the taller motor mounts gave space below to incorporate my solid shifter linkage.

This would be the cleanest method. I would need to figure out how to bend steel at home. I would think cutting and welding in flat pieces would not be the best or strongest approach.

[J R Jones]

A press brake is appropriate. I made a basic PB with (2) bars welded to a base and a 1" square welded to a gusseted stem. My 12 ton press pushes it.
jim

[blomb11]

Front suspension complete and torqued. I had my first set back and didn’t (forgot) to line up the cotter pin holes on the upper ball joints. I had to buy an 18” wrench and borrow a ball joint tool, but got them lined up and installed.
158291

I cut out the X in the rear and braced it to accept the 6sp transmission. I forgot to take a pic before o reinstalled the drivetrain, but I will get a better pic. I still have to make the trans mount and paint the bare metal. I did notice though that the transmission mount is not in the middle the frame. There is some slop in the motor mounting slots in the frame. I am push it towards the center a bit, but it is still off by 0.5-1”. I am not sure if this is a concern or not. Once I take the slop out it then begins to load the motor mounts so I don’t think it would be good to push it any further towards the center. I am trying to think if this will affect the balance or handling of the car. Really hoping I don’t need to worry about it too much and mod the frame further.
158292

[blomb11]

I cut out the X in the rear of the frame and reinforced it as others have done to clear the 6sp. This was my first real fabrication work so it took some extra time to measure, cut, grind, and make it fit. I definitely did not account for the change in angles in some of my measurements so I had to bridge some small gaps using the welder. I am still learning welding as well so they are not the prettiest of welds, but they seem strong. A nice coat of white enamel paint covers most of the imperfections pretty well.
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Once the frame was braced I moved onto making the lowered trans mount. I leveraged what Hobby had done to cut the mount and weld on 2 poly bushings. It took awhile to get the measurements right and the trans to sit on the tubes as I had them mocked up. Lots of grinding the on the trans mount for what seemed like little gain. You can see the 4 tabs I welded on in the previous pic to secure the mount to the frame. The other hard part was having some clearance to be able to install and remove the 4 bolts that attach the trans mount to the transmission housing. I went back and forth to see if there was a way to make the rear tabs removable to make it easier to service, but there was not enough clearance with how close the transmission tail is to the frame now. With this mount I am able to get the transmission tail to be -2 deg so a good improvement from the initial +5 deg up. To get this slope I did raise the front under the engine mounts by 1.5" using aluminum spacers I machined. I will try this first since it was pretty easy to make and if something happens I can look into making new mounts all together.
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With that the driveline is finally installed permanently! I learned the hard way when building the axles FFR only mates to OEM CVs. The front donor axles I had were aftermarket so I had to head down to my local Subaru wrecker and get 2 parts axles to salvage the correct tri-lobe gears. I have the axles built up and ready to install once I get the correct rear inner bearing seal 1A Auto sends me. This is their 3rd attempt to send me the right one.

Next up is to complete the fuel tank install and test fit the seat I just ordered to see how I can clear the broomstick test.

[Hobby Racer]

Nice job so far!


I went back and forth to see if there was a way to make the rear tabs removable to make it easier to service, but there was not enough clearance with how close the transmission tail is to the frame now.

I ended doing exactly that. I take my engine / trans out so often that I changed the rear mounting tabs so they are bolt-in. :rolleyes:

[blomb11]

Nice job so far!



I ended doing exactly that. I take my engine / trans out so often that I changed the rear mounting tabs so they are bolt-in. :rolleyes:

I do remember seeing that in your thread. Hopefully I won’t have to but that can be a problem to solve later.

[blomb11]

I have seen a few people talk about compressing the steering column a couple inches. Is that as simple as tapping on the 2 column sleeves to get the desired length? Do you also have increase the slot lengths where the column bolts to the frame?

I am already at the ends of the slots so I do t see how it would compress without some other adjustment.

[Ajzride]

Compression how to here:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?10668-longislandwrx-Insert-Cool-Nickname-Here-Build-Thread&p=150494&viewfull=1#post150494


I have 3D printable bracket to allow further compression by dropping and extending slots.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31639-Aj-s-818S-in-Houston&p=401432&viewfull=1#post401432

[blomb11]

Compression how to here:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?10668-longislandwrx-Insert-Cool-Nickname-Here-Build-Thread&p=150494&viewfull=1#post150494


I have 3D printable bracket to allow further compression by dropping and extending slots.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31639-Aj-s-818S-in-Houston&p=401432&viewfull=1#post401432

Awesome thank you very much!

[blomb11]

I began looking at my seating position to try and see how I can pass the broomstick test. In my planning I thought I would be able to cut out the X bracing and lower the seat bottom to the bottom of the frame but this does not give me enough leg room to the pedals. I have cut down the Wilwood master cylinder rods by 0.5" which helped, but I may need to cut them down further. I have way more than 5" of pedal travel so I think there is more room to reduce these down and give more leg room. Plus the brake is a good 2-3" above the accelerator pedal so this would not be ideal. To be the most comfortable and provide adequate leg room the seat needs to be pushed back up again the interior firewall. This put the bottom of the seat over the front cross bar that is right in front of the fuel tank. It does not seem like a good idea to modify this cross bar or would be quite a challenge to modify and rebrace the frame. I think the best bet is to utilize a small hoop over the driver's side like FFR did with their 818R as seen in the pic below. This will disrupt the aero to the rear wing a little, but I am not sure if it would be enough to consider adding a full bar across the top. A full bar across the top could then be turned into a fairing to try and help with the airflow, but seems like a lot of work. The first picture is with the seat moved forward over the X brace with a 15 degree tilt back but does not provide enough leg room. The second picture is the seat pushed back up against the interior firewall with a 10 degree tilt back. From the quick measurements it looks like I need at least a 2" bump over the driver's side to be able to pass the test.
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As I was trying to complete the rear suspension I noticed there was a slight hiccup with raising my engine 1.5". The rear shock tower brace does not fit because it is hitting the top of the clutch fork and the rear of the V37 turbo. So I am in the process of notching the cross bar to be able to clear both of these interferences. I am going to try and add a flat plate over the notches to try and bring back the original stiffness for any bending moments. I am a little nervous about any torsional loads, but it seems like most would be in bending and not so much torsion.

[dpalm]

The FFR mini-hoop on top of the rollbar made me wonder whether anyone has tried welding a short hoop over the front cross bar (forward of the steering wheel) to address the broomstick-test conundrum. With the clear plastic wind deflector in place, this would not change the aerodynamics.

[blomb11]

I am going to install the S windshield because I want to register it to be able to drive it on the street as well. I have been thinking about what it would take to reinforce the windshield which would essentially accomplish what you mentioned. A quick look at my PowerPoint picture measurements and it would take 4-6" in the front for me to pass. So if a bar is added to go around the frame of the windshield this would pass this pretty easily.

[Sgt.Gator]

blomb11 and dpalm I explored both of those options before going with the full halo.
The bump over the driver side is very similar to what SRFs added years ago as standard to make the Spec Racer Ford fit taller drivers. Note how all SRFs now have a grafted on top hoop extension.

https://bl6pap004files.storage.live.com/y4m9J24nLsZyTQ3OsMJmsoVQ3__se0GEkKyACGQvoQqBAeb666 rpI7-2wNq5XRosYZs__vF4BL5LIeDQxyTjWTxT4Uz_LAs7DfvG6ehIS YoT3TBFzDcPYJkovKrmlI1pUMoMXGcYUrf9uNMr7Da4HApn0Gl 61yu9xDF3Dj1VKZwkxiRkVlEQUWqqqSOafT3KKyP?width=750&height=500&cropmode=none

I tried to use this style mod to make my Palatov legal in SCCA and ICSCC. The SCCA regional tech inspector denied it. Adding a loop to the main hoop was not allowed. Since the SCCA denied it the ICSCC also denied it. The only way to make it legal was to put together all the documents showing FEA analysis and crash worthiness testing to pass an SCCA Homologation review at their HQ.
(Note: SCCA OWNS SCCA Enterprises who are the only people who can make SRFs).

Would NASA allow it? I don't know, there is no NASA in my region. Will a track operator and most HPDE operators allow it, almost certainly yes.

The bump over the steering wheel/dash is also not legal in SCCA if it is on the front hoop.
Here's some SCCA rules:
The main hoop must be high enough that a straight line drawn from the top of the main hoop to the top of the front hoop would pass over the driver’s helmet and steering wheel when the driver is seated in the normal driving position. Additionally, the top of the main hoop must be at least 2 inches above the driver’s helmet as illustrated in figure 10. ( My Note: This does NOT mean the broomstick line has to be 2" above the driver's helmet, just the main hoop has to be 2" above. But the broomstick line can't touch the helmet.)

FRONT HOOP
1. FRONT HOOP
1. Roll cages may be of two designs, low front hoop or high front hoop. All closed top cars and cars that retain the windshield frame must have a high front hoop design.Open cars may incorporate a high or low front hoop design.
b. Open cars
The height of the front hoop (per section 9.4.B.1.b) must be consistent across the full width of the cockpit.

All this is why I went full halo. Even with the full halo I was almost black flagged last year at a race because we did some work that required removing the driver seat and when we put it back we used one slot further up in the back tilt of the side rails. That caused my hemet to be just above the halo by a tiny bit. The corner workers noticed and called it in. The stewards chose to let the race finish, then came to my paddock and admonished me.

Retro Racings 818R is a no go for me. All 3 of their drivers pass the broomstick test but I don't in their car.

[blomb11]

Thanks for all of the good information! I definitely used your post in the Broomstick thread about the SCCA rules to better understand the requirements. Definitely more food for thought. While I do not plan to race in SCCA or NASA, rather local HPDE or possibly some GTA, I do want to be safe. I will mount the seat so it sits on the floor to be as low as possible and then once I have the windshield installed see what will work best. I want to explore what it would take to install a hoop around the windshield frame to see if that would work. Rather than drawings lines in PPT I should tie a string around the forward and aft hoops to get the real broomstick plane to see how far off I am.

[blomb11]

I was able to modify the shock tower brace to clear the clutch fork and the VF37 turbo housing. I was quite nervous to cut into this since I only have one and did not want to have to recreate it. In order to make enough clearance I had to cut basically through the square tube so I went ahead and added a bar on top to try and regain most of the original strength. Welding and metal fabricating really is an art to make it look good. You can see some of my cuts are not super great using my angle grinder, but it got the job done.
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I tried to install the rear coilovers and noticed a problem with the spring contacting the upper lateral link. I am using the top hole for the R ride height which seems to be the culprit because the lower S ride height hole there is some clearance. I used the spacers mentioned in the manual 0.32" and 0.43" even though the ones I got are actually 0.39". I will have to make new ones to get to the correct 0.43" requirement to take out the slop at the top of the coilover. I think I am using the correct spacers on the upper lateral link as well. I am not sure what is the causing the binding, but I did not try raising the assembly up towards full compression to see if there ends up being space between the spring and the upper link. Am I doing something wrong here?

In the picture here I tried using thinner spacers (0.125" and 0.25") but there is still contact when I try to line up the bottom of the coilover.
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[Santiago]

Check your control arm lengths. I seem to recall having similar contact at first, so I had to adjust the links (I think it was the upper trailing link). The knuckle moves around quite a bit with small changes in control arm length.

[J R Jones]

Check your control arm lengths. I seem to recall having similar contact at first, so I had to adjust the links (I think it was the upper trailing link). The knuckle moves around quite a bit with small changes in control arm length.

The upper trailing link adjustment is what sets rear castor. As discussed here previously by Sgt Gator and others, that adjustment is critical to corner stability and erratic oversteer.
Basically the lateral link outer pivots must be pitch-matched to the inner (chassis) pivots.
I do not know how that will affect your interference issue.
jim

[blomb11]

Thank you Santiago and Jim! This is the first time I have had a 4 link suspension and full adjustability so kind of a brain fart for not realizing this. A quick adjustment to the top link provides the clearance needed :D. I will have to make sure they match as previously mentioned especially when I get to aligning it.

[blomb11]

I am using the upper shock mounts for the R ride height, but I did read some noted this may not be the best place to achieve a ride height of 3.5-4.0". So I will have to see how it works once I get it on some wheels and then if needed I can use the lower S holes if I need more adjustability. For now the rear suspension is complete and torqued down. Aligning this is going to be quite a project with how many different links can be adjusted!
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Next up is to finish mounting my seat and possibly compressing the steering column a couple inches. The Holley hydramat I ordered is on back order until the end of Feb so that is a bummer. My fuel tank has an extra 1.3125" hole in it and FFR mentioned this is for a roll over / fuel vent. However, there is no mention of this in the manual nor 818R supplemental instructions, but FFR said they are going to send me the valve. Guess I will see what it looks like when I get it. I had a hard time finding something that large of a diameter on my own.

[jforand]

Looking Great. Like the Cadillac Brackets!

[driveslikejehu]

Did you ever get an answer on the dead pedals? I have a question going with FFR, but not resolved yet.
They supplied the S version, shown below in color. It's not the same as the R, as shown in b&w.
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[blomb11]

Yes I contacted them and told FFR they needed to provided both (L/R) dead pedals. I was not going to adapt the S ones to fit especially since I ordered the R kit. I received them a couple months back and have them installed now. I am not installing any of the S interior aluminum either but the R dead pedals help with this.
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[blomb11]

It feels like slow progress, but I actually got a lot done in the last few weeks. I was able to the driver's seat mounted and the steering column installed. I have to shorten the column by 0.25-0.5" to get the bolt relief to align with the steering coupler. It was a lot easier to compress the column than I had thought and actually had to pull some back out. The NRG short hub and steering wheel look pretty good too.

For the seat I went with an NRG FRP-302 Plasma fixed back seat. In order to get the seat to sit on the frame I decided to flip the brackets out. However, on the inner side this hit the anchor for the harness so I had to notch that side. To keep the seat in place I found some McMaster weld on nut plates that worked out quite well. I also got flanged bolts to come up through the bottom to secure the seat to the nut plates. I will have to add clearance holes in the aluminum floor panel. Drilling straight holes using a hand drill, laying on the ground, and on my side from underneath proved much harder than I thought :rolleyes:. Not to mention then to get all 4 holes to line up with the holes on the seat...took some minor adjustments. I dropped the VCP shifter onto the tunnel at the 24.5" the manual calls out and this actually felt like a good spot for me.

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One issue I had been ignoring since I got my kit was the terrible popping noises from both driver and passenger's side due to oil canning. I did not want to ruin the white powdercoat, but something needed to be done. I tried the propane torch method but that just burned a bunch of holes and kind of warped the panel. I then switch and ran beads in the affected area which seemed to work. It is not perfect, but there is no more popping even with my full weight on it. The process made a mess, but with some paint it all seems to cover up decently well. I have some orange peeling on the panels so I need to address that or I could cover it with traction stripes or something.

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Up Next: Brake and Clutch line routing

[Hobby Racer]

Some of your pics aren't showing :(

[blomb11]

Some of your pics aren't showing :(

Thanks! I think I fixed them now.

[blomb11]

Creating the brake and clutch lines was a bit more tedious than I had expected. It took some practice to get the hang of the harbor freight tube bender and laying out where I wanted all of the lines to run. A couple things are different since I am using Cadillac calipers at all 4 corners and the Wilwood pedal box. This is a track focused built, but I also want it to be streetable so this required some form of a parking brake. Since I am not using rear WRX calipers I am not using the emergency brake cables either. Instead I implemented a rear brake line lock after doing some research. I saw this topic in this forum but I never got a response from anyone if they got it to work legally. So I will take the plunge and see how it will pan out. I also looked into electric parking brakes or even an additional hydraulic caliper to act as the emergency/parking brake.

The lines I created are decent but probably not the most elegant. I had to buy an additional 25 feet of tubing for the special lines I created and to replace the several lines I messed up :rolleyes:.

For the front lines I have them connecting to the first MC. From reading the 818 assembly tips and tricks I had previously installed the front rear inner splash guards and I am sure glad I did. I cut a hole to read each SS line through and mounted the tab on the inside of front bay. This would have been a bigger pain if I did not have these installed already.

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The rear line connects to the middle (or 2nd) MC and then runs down through the center console and exits behind the driver and the fuel tank. At the end of the center console supports is where I found the Line Lock felt best given my seating position. The line routing here is not the prettiest because I realized after I mounted the line lock I had the inlet facing aft and the outlet facing forward. So I had to route the tube around the line lick instead of directly to it. I then routed the line down around the fuel tank and out the left rear corner. Once it exited and was behind the rear firewall this is where I inserted the T to split the 2 rear calipers. I ran the right line at the bottom of my rear firewall and then down the frame. I mounted both brake line tabs pretty high because I wanted to make sure at full compression the suspension will not touch the SS brake lines. You can see this in the lower pictures.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Park-Lok-Universal-Hydraulic-Parking-Brake-Line-Lock,1970.html?skua=91031301&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=Cj0KCQiA64GRBhCZARIsAHOLriJMK20RzEBxhHooIKSa IxUrF256yzfq8kgGcKg6fer8yFceN55lmUcaAv29EALw_wcB

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The clutch line connects to the 3rd outer MC and runs down the left side of the car on the outside of the intrusion panel. I took a style page from Hobby Racer and used carbon fiber wrap on the inside of these panels. I will wrap the rest of the interior aluminum panels so more to see later on this. I deviated from the manual and ran the clutch line up the side of the motor and connected it to a SS brake line which then connects to the clutch slave cylinder.

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Lastly, I decided to use a Tilton 3-way remote reservoir instead of the 2 Wilwood reservoir provided in the pedal kit. Since I also got the wiper kit I saw a post in the forum the Tilton reservoir needs to be offset to account for this. I need to look at the install instructions again to see what I need to do for the hose from the reservoir to the MCs. I assume these lines should be as straight at possible and not have any loops or large dips. Is this true?

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Once I get closer to engine start I will get my rotors and pads so I can bleed the lines.

Next up: Fuel System Install

[blomb11]

I am starting to figure how I need to modify the fuel pump hanger to use the Holley Hydramat. The fuel sub level sensor float sits under the fuel pump hanger and then the hydramat where I positioned it sits right under the fuel pump level sender. I am going to cut off the bottom of the fuel pump hanger and move it up to clear the fuel sub level sensor float. I will then mount the fuel pump off to the side and then bend the fuel pump float to clear the hydramat.

Again am taking notes from Hobby Racer here and then adding fuel foam blocks to help with sloshing. I will try this out first and decide if a surge tank is really needed down the road.

Question: Does the fuel temp sensor need to be as low as possible? Or can I move it up higher? Bottom black sensor on the back of the hanger.

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[blomb11]

I cut off a couple inches of the fuel hanger to see how I can clear both floats and fit the hydramat in the FFR gen 2 tank nicely. In the first picture you can see where the floats rest initially and how close they are. The FFR tank is shorter than an OEM WRX tank so the floats are both raised a bit when they are installed. I am not sure how this will affect the fuel gauge readings. I am trying to figure out how to make it all fit. I started to bend the fuel pump float arm to the left in the picture to try and give some space. I suppose I can do the same to the sub fuel level float on the right since this one is right under the fuel pump hanger. Any recommendations would be appreciated!

I apologize the first two pictures are upside down. I could only get a picture through the small vent hole at the top of the tank.

Can the fuel pump float (right one) rest on top of the hydramat?

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[J R Jones]

The float rheostat has a full and empty position that is communicated to the gauge.
The task is to make it agree with your actual fuel levels.
The original float travel is greater than your 818 tank, so to reduce travel to match the new tank the float rod must have a shorter swing. (shorter radius)

With the rheostat at full down, bend the float rod so the float is on the bottom of the tank.
With the rheostat at full up, bend the float rod so that the float is at the top of the tank.
A compromise may be required.
jim

[Hobby Racer]

Can the fuel pump float (right one) rest on top of the hydramat?


Yes, mine does and it does not effect anything.



With the rheostat at full down, bend the float rod so the float is on the bottom of the tank.
With the rheostat at full up, bend the float rod so that the float is at the top of the tank.
A compromise may be required.
jim

What he said ;)

[blomb11]

Thank you very much JR and Hobby! I will gently start bending the rods to make things fit and to ensure the proper gauge readings will work.

[J R Jones]

One more thing, if the float is on a pivot, the pivot shaft segment should be laterally perpendicular to the swing arm(rod). Like the letter "T" sweeping on it's base.
jim

[blomb11]

Is this the best location for the coolant overflow tank or is there a better spot? I was planning to put my ethanol sensor in this same position but I could move it to my rear firewall if necessary.
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[Ajzride]

I can't remember what the stock body panel looks like anymore (I cut mine up long ago) but it might be hard to fill right there. I moved mine up to the angled bar in front of it.

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[Rob T]

Mine is right behind the "hump" on the passenger side.

[carnutdave]

I mounted mine on the firewall behind the driver seat because I mounted the cruise control module on the side.

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[roadrashrob]

Mounted mine where yours is and the battery behind the firewall. I have a front mounted fuel tank, so moved some things around. Fabricated a simple bracket to support the bottom.

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[idf]

Is this the best location for the coolant overflow tank or is there a better spot? I was planning to put my ethanol sensor in this same position but I could move it to my rear firewall if necessary.
165098

I left mine in the OEM location on the radiator. Means some long lines to the front of the car, but less clutter in the engine compartment, and has appeared to work fine.

[Ajzride]

I left mine in the OEM location on the radiator. Means some long lines to the front of the car, but less clutter in the engine compartment, and has appeared to work fine.

I think getting the air out would be much harder with the overflow tank up front, because it won't be the high point anymore.

[jforand]

I too left my OEM overflow up front in the stock location. We basically have two major high points in the car, assuming your front to rear transfer tubes run toward the bottom of the frame. The top of the radiator is a good two feet above my transfer tubes and the top of the engine is again a good 2 plus feet. I opted for a 16lb cap on the radiator and a 20lc cap on the pressurized reservoir on top of the engine. I get good circulation and any major air bubble up front vent first to the overflow. In theory, the pressurized reservoir cap should never unseat and vent. After filling and purging the system I just check the level in the overflow and adjust as necessary (it raises and lowers as one would expect with thermal expansion) and the rear cap I top off as air makes it up there and the level drops. I don't have the most mileage on the setup, but do have an entire day at VIR's track on it without any cooling issues.

On a side note, I ditched every bit of that corrugated flexible metal tube FFR provides. Getting the air out of that stuff is essentially impossible. Every corrugation holds a large bubble times a billion corrugations. Overtime it will come out I suppose, but I do not have the patience for that. They are hard to seal as well. I found some long rubber tubes for like $9 bucks at Rock Auto and cutting sections out of them with the proper bends and lengths was surprisingly easy. Different portions of one part number basically handled all four corners, think I only have 1 or maybe two couplers up front for the long intersing journey from the foot wells to the and bottom of the radiator.. Could dig up the part number if anyone is interested.

[idf]

Similar experience with front overflow and no problems as far as I know. Also have "Wayne's mod".

I have Boig's coolant tubes and have been happy with them.

[blomb11]

On a side note, I ditched every bit of that corrugated flexible metal tube FFR provides. Getting the air out of that stuff is essentially impossible. Every corrugation holds a large bubble times a billion corrugations. Overtime it will come out I suppose, but I do not have the patience for that. They are hard to seal as well. I found some long rubber tubes for like $9 bucks at Rock Auto and cutting sections out of them with the proper bends and lengths was surprisingly easy. Different portions of one part number basically handled all four corners, think I only have 1 or maybe two couplers up front for the long intersing journey from the foot wells to the and bottom of the radiator.. Could dig up the part number if anyone is interested.

Can you share the part number(s)? I just installed the corrugated tubes on the water pump and the coolant cross over pipe. I am not sure I have the budget for the Boig tubes but longer rubber hoses I could swing. I was thinking the corrugated tubes may cause some issue, but then others use them.

Not sure what I am going to do at the end with all of the left over unused FFR parts stacking up :rolleyes:

[jforand]

Can you share the part number(s)? I just installed the corrugated tubes on the water pump and the coolant cross over pipe. I am not sure I have the budget for the Boig tubes but longer rubber hoses I could swing. I was thinking the corrugated tubes may cause some issue, but then others use them.

Not sure what I am going to do at the end with all of the left over unused FFR parts stacking up :rolleyes:

Sure.

I will start off by saying that I don't mean to hi-jack a thread, just want to help fellow builders. Also, that I apparently lied about the cost. I think it really works if you keep telling yourself that you aren't spending that much :D What I can say is that I started out by selecting off the wall of hoses at autoparts stores and they charge a fortune. I looked them up at Rockauto and they were like 1/4 the cost.

Gates 24174 Radiator Upper Hose $15.18 Ordered 4
Gates 23605 Raditator Upper Hose $30.79 Ordered 1 of those.

I was able to get a single hose section to come from the side tube on the car to come around the corner, up and over the filler gas tube, and onto the water pump with all the right bends and kinks. I was also able to find the right section to do the same on the discharge at the top of the engine to the other side pipe. Up front on the passenger side that goes to the top of the radiator (basically the stock Subi radiator geometry) I came off the side of the car and shorterted through the corner as FFR suggest and pocket out into the 'battery compartment area' at the correct angle. I used the straight aluminum connector here and the other (I think the part number I order 4 of) went all the way tot he top of the radiator. On the driver's side I came from the side, short cut the corner again and came out at the correct angle again. This one needed a very tight bend to get up and over the frame and then back down to the radiator. I included a couple picks below that show the front. End result was nice smooth plumbing for the entire loop and it was WAY cheaper than those prefab tubes. I believe I talked with them and they wanted a LOT of money and were not interested in any negotiation.

Also ordered from Speedway Motors

Straight Aluminum Hose Connectors, 6 Inch Length P/N 9171763 $13.99 Qty 2
Aluminum 135 Degree Radiator Hose Connectors P/N # 9171005 $22.99 Qty1

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Hope it helps someone. For what it is worth, I do not currently have the Wayne cooling mod (tap in the crossover tube) installed. Incidentally, I do have a body installed now. I am surprised at the difficulty in getting air out of the engine and I am sure the mod makes that easier, but with a bit of patience I was fine. I actually let a lot of air out of the hose to crossover connection where that mod goes so it makes sense. I was just nervous about tapping that tube, I know of bunch of you guys are running it successfully.

[blomb11]

Well after a 2 week set back I am now back to moving forward. I realized I had installed the rear Cadillac brake caliper brackets on the wrong side even though they are marked left and right :(. I thought they did not look right initially and then learned the hard way when I went to install the caliper and rotor to find everything ran into each other.

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So I had to pull out the hubs, repack the bearings, flip the brackets, and press everything back together. Thankfully I was able to salvage the bearings or at least I think I did. They spin freely and I do not hear any grinding. However, when I went to install the calipers they contacted the rotor, but in different places left vs right. The bearings were seated as far as they would go and I even tried pulling them back out slightly to get the clearance needed. The left side the caliper contacted the inner rotor and the right side caliper contacted the outer rotor. So to me this seemed like an assembly tolerance stack up issue with the bearings, hubs, and brackets I have. So I took each caliper and removed 1mm of material from the contacting surface. Now I have at least 1mm of clearance to the inside of the rotor on both sides. The outer side of the rotor has more and this matches what I have on the front. The final test will be to install the pads and bleed the system to make sure there are no issues. I forgot to take a picture of the inside of the calipers with the material removed. Now I am able to install the calipers and rotors on the rear.

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Next up is to run the fuel lines and complete the cooling system. I ordered the radiator hoses Justin mentioned so thank you! I will use those instead of the corrugated hose.

[jforand]

Well after a 2 week set back I am now back to moving forward. I realized I had installed the rear Cadillac brake caliper brackets on the wrong side even though they are marked left and right :(. I thought they did not look right initially and then learned the hard way when I went to install the caliper and rotor to find everything ran into each other.

If you get the right size stock (socket, old bearing race, etc) and make sure to press on the right areas they come apart without issue. I have had mine apart 2-3 times after the initial press together. Just need to be carful with the seals.

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So I had to pull out the hubs, repack the bearings, flip the brackets, and press everything back together. Thankfully I was able to salvage the bearings or at least I think I did. They spin freely and I do not hear any grinding. However, when I went to install the calipers they contacted the rotor, but in different places left vs right. The bearings were seated as far as they would go and I even tried pulling them back out slightly to get the clearance needed. The left side the caliper contacted the inner rotor and the right side caliper contacted the outer rotor. So to me this seemed like an assembly tolerance stack up issue with the bearings, hubs, and brackets I have. So I took each caliper and removed 1mm of material from the contacting surface. Now I have at least 1mm of clearance to the inside of the rotor on both sides. The outer side of the rotor has more and this matches what I have on the front. The final test will be to install the pads and bleed the system to make sure there are no issues. I forgot to take a picture of the inside of the calipers with the material removed. Now I am able to install the calipers and rotors on the rear.

This is a bit aggravating I would say. So as you know I went the STI route and had to make my own brackets and they came out pretty decent. I do run a wheel spacer on the outside rear to clearance the wheel/tire and the lower trailing arm. Up front however, I have that Cadillac kit that is commercially available. I was very displeased to find that there were alignment issues as you described in the rear. Ultimately I am running a very narrow spacer (would have to measure it again to get the size) inside the rotor and then another small spacer outside the rotor to clearance the wheel and caliper. For a guy who generally HATES wheel spacers it is a bit troubling to have 6 on my car. I see no issues other than being a pain as I too have the loner ARP studs. I just have to be careful with the wheels up front as the centering function on the hub is compromised with the stack of spacers and rotor. It still centers, but doesn't 'hop' into position as it would otherwise.

Not sure what you mean with your "pulling the bearing back out slightly" comment. You are going to need to make sure all bearings are FULLY seated into the knuckles and on the hubs. The axle nuts preload those bears for proper operation. If they are not seated when you start out, they will be soon at the expense of your nut torque and preload. The next thing to happen will be bearing failure.

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Next up is to run the fuel lines and complete the cooling system. I ordered the radiator hoses Justin mentioned so thank you! I will use those instead of the corrugated hose.

Cool (no pun intended :D) Let me know if you need any more detailed pics. I used the band clamps with the T nuts in them. They are very nice and don't mar the hoses, got those from Speedway as well. They aren't cheap unfortunately. You'll end up with a nice little grocery bag of cut offs. PVC tubing cutter work really well on the hoses. I think you can get those at Harbor Freight for probably $5 if you don't have a cutting solution.

[blomb11]

I know I am going to have to run wheel spacers on the front and rear to be able to fit 18x8 +35-38 up front and 18x9.5 +35-38 in the rear. The one advantage you have of the STI hubs is the 5x114 bolt pattern which opens up so many more wheel options than the 5x100 pattern of the WRX. I purchased the kit from CTSV Brake Swap for the fronts which did come with a little spacer between the rotor and the hub, but then there will be another one as you mention to space out the wheel.

I left out some of the steps out on the rear because it was kind of a long story. The first time I ever pressed in the rear bearings in I felt like it I over did it because it did not spin very freely. So this go around I did not press them in all the way and figured I would use the 160 ft-lb torque on the axle nut to get them to the correct spot. In doing so I got the left rear to go in a lot and the right rear not so much. So this is when I pulled the left rear bearing back out about half way, but I did then compress it again with the wheel bearing press kit. So the bearing was seated before I put everything back together. When I pulled the bearing out I did notice it started to flop around which concerned me so I pressed it back in until it was fully seated. I pulled the inner seals and checked both sides to make sure the hub shaft was just shy of being flush with the inner most surface of the inner bearing on each side. I thought I had the wrong rotors or something since I was having alignment issues and the odd this was it was a different contact problem left rear vs right rear. I did think about needing a spacer but I needed one to push one side outward but then the other side I needed a negative spacer. So this is why I thought the easiest approach was to shave down the caliper by 1mm in the offending areas. I will see if I can get a picture of one of the pads I shaved for reference.

I might take you up on your picture offer for the radiator hose routing after I did into it. I used a hack saw the first time to cut the hoses which was not too difficult but I frequent HF so I will look there too. My tooling budget has exploded on this build :D

Not sure why the reply with quote option didn't work...

[Sgt.Gator]

What 18" performance/competition tire are you planning to fit up front? I've spent a huge amount of time looking at tires and there's no 18" competition tire that I'm aware of that will fit. The main issue is finding any tires that are less than 24" in diameter. You can go from 24" to 24.4" diameters but they all rub and limit how far you can turn the steering wheel.

[blomb11]

I have been planning to start with Falken Azenis RT660 tires. I have read the front is rather tight so I could drop down to a 17x8 wheel in the front. I was looking at the RT660 and the difference in diameter between the R17 and R18 was small so I thought it would not nice to keep both front and rears the same at 18". I am glad to hear your input before I make any purchases. I do not have any experience running on slicks so that would have to be some to look into down the road.

[Sgt.Gator]

Front: The RT660 215/40/17 fits the front. The 235/40/17 will probably rub.
Rear: I have the RT660 275/35/18 that works with the right wheels (18 x 9.5 +38).

Toyo Proxes R1R: I have them in 17" on the same size wheels for Front and Rear.
Front: 245/35/17
Rear: 255/40/17
Both Front & Rear on Konig Dekagram 17” x 9” +40

I have fender flares now front & rear so YMMV!

[Dave 53]

I have the Toyo Proxy R1R in a 255 35 18 on the rear.

Not sure if it's the new first time on a track R1R tires or the first time on Thunderhill West because I did both for the first time together. My rear fender splash guards got damaged running over curbs like never before. I suspect the Dorito Corner which wasn't even a violent hit. First the left side running CCW then the right side running CW the next day. Look close a the picture and you can see it. I'm in the process of making the splash guards 1.5" taller. Another item on the list of things needed to turn a 818S into a track car.
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I did my research on tires before settling on the R1R. They seemed wonderful on the track including one session in the rain. They feel great on the street. Then, just the other day, Grassroots Motorsports did a 200tw tire review and the R1R came in a resounding last place. At least now I have an excuse...

[Sgt.Gator]

I run the R1Rs as my rain tire. And Test & Tune as well. A lot cheaper than burning up A7s.

[blomb11]

I just dropped the radiator in and noticed I will need to raise it which is not a new issue. I have seen custom parts from Rori or Chad Plavan used a FFR shifter bushing to raise the radiator. Does anyone know what bushing Chad added on top of the lower radiator bushings? This seems like a simple fix rather than machining up some spacers. What have others done to raise their radiators?

Seems like 0.8" is about the right offset needed which is just above the lower radiator bushing. I have been looking at rubber bushing on McMaster to try and come up with a solution.

Pic of Chad's bushing post #174:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?11129-Plavan-s-818R-Build-Thread/page5&highlight=Plavan

[Rob T]

I now own Chad’s car. Let me know if you need me to measure something.

[jforand]

I used 3 flat washers. I actually just threw a little JB Weld on them on the last assembly so they behave as a single unit and I don’t have to restack them. This was just enough to get the lower radiator hose off the steering rack bellows. I will further note that if you have a stock radiator at least from an 04 STI vintage you will likely have an issue with the hood hitting the radiator cap, especially if you go higher than I just suggested. The hood was touching my cap. I inadvertently destroyed my radiator attempting to slim it down when I was ducting it in. The result was finding the Megan Racing all aluminum direct drop in. It was surprisingly cheap and the radiator cap was significantly lower and clears the hood by 3/4” of an inch. Still using the 3 washers to clear the steering rack. I guess I should also note that I mounted the radiator as FFR suggested, but the OEM brackets did not quite work anymore so I fabbed some new aluminum ones.

[blomb11]

I now own Chad’s car. Let me know if you need me to measure something.

Yes I did know that sorry I should have directed the question to you. Do you know what bushing or combination of bushings you have for your lower radiator mounts?


I used 3 flat washers. I actually just threw a little JB Weld on them on the last assembly so they behave as a single unit and I don’t have to restack them. This was just enough to get the lower radiator hose off the steering rack bellows. I will further note that if you have a stock radiator at least from an 04 STI vintage you will likely have an issue with the hood hitting the radiator cap, especially if you go higher than I just suggested. The hood was touching my cap. I inadvertently destroyed my radiator attempting to slim it down when I was ducting it in. The result was finding the Megan Racing all aluminum direct drop in. It was surprisingly cheap and the radiator cap was significantly lower and clears the hood by 3/4” of an inch. Still using the 3 washers to clear the steering rack. I guess I should also note that I mounted the radiator as FFR suggested, but the OEM brackets did not quite work anymore so I fabbed some new aluminum ones.

Interesting. Do you have any rubber isolation on the bottom with the washer stack? How much did you raise yours. I have a CSF radiator and am looking to raise it 1”. I have been looking on McMaster at rubber threaded-stud mounts to make my own bushings.

[jforand]

Interesting. Do you have any rubber isolation on the bottom with the washer stack? How much did you raise yours. I have a CSF radiator and am looking to raise it 1”. I have been looking on McMaster at rubber threaded-stud mounts to make my own bushings.

Yes, I pretty much went the direction FFR recommended here so I have the OEM rubber bushings popped into the FFR provided mounts. One pic is looking down into the radiator compartment and the send in looking into the radiator compartment through the front grill opening. Those are the two hood vent up top. Both pics are obviously missing the actual radiator. The radiator has aluminum posts that stick down into the rubber grommets. They were plenty long enough to deal with the ~1/4" of stacked washers.

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This is the situation at the top. I again tried to do the FFR method and had originally used the OEM brackets and had a rivnut in the front side of the bar. In the present world the radiator was a bit taller and the OEM brackets were quite working. I first made the one in my hand that used the same rivenut to mount. They were horribly inadequate and too flexible. The final iteration is the one on the car in the second pic (and background of the first). Very solid and utilizes two new rivnuts on the top of the bar. They both reutilized the OEM rubber bushing for the post mount. Conveniently, I now use the previous rivnut to hold a screen to protect the radiator.

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[J R Jones]

My low hood profile requires a laid-back-top radiator. I integrated the FFR lower brackets and Subaru isolators into the front body mounts and fabricated "dog bone" upper mounts, again using the Subaru isolators. The clamp ends are adjustable which makes installation easier.
jim

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[blomb11]

Okay cool and I like the brackets! I will try and mod the OEM brackets to try and make them work before making new ones after I figure out the lower mounts.

The radiator ducting looks like quite the challenge…should be fun down the road.

[blomb11]

@JR I am curious to see your custom body since it seems like you have completely redone it.

[blomb11]

I am getting ready to begin installing the AWIC I got from ZeroDB and I have some questions about the plumbing. I plan to run distilled water and not coolant. I have been planning to run my lines according to what Bob did below and add the two 1/4" hose barbs in the side of the intercooler. Dumb question, but I want to verify I do need to have an expansion tank, the bleeder line, and the fill line as Bob has it correct? I want to confirm this before I drill into the side of the intercooler. And then I just cap the bleeder port on the heat exchanger in the front since this is not the highest point in the system? This makes sense but a confirmation would be even better.



My AWIC System in NON-Pressurized. I will start at my bosch pump, located at the bottom of the firewall, in front of the right rear wheel. It is down low in the system to make it self priming.
Out of the pump, I ran a 3/4" hose to bottom port on a sirocco radiator in the front of the car. Keeping the hose even with the bottom of the car the best I could.
I went into the bottom port of the radiator so the pump would push any air out the top radiator hose. That 3/4" radiator hose runs back (right side) to the AWIC cooler on the engine.
The output of the AWIC cooler runs down to the input of the bosch pump.

To get any air out of the system, I have 2 small 1/4" hoses connect to the AWIC cooler. One at the high point and on at the lowest point. Then I have a 1-quart reservoir tank mounted a little higher than the AWIC Cooler.
Top of cooler goes to top of the tank to take any air out of the system. The bottom of the tank goes to the bottom of AWIC cooler to replenish fluid. I run standard antifreeze solution to prevent freezing and corrosion.

Do not connect awic system to the engine coolant system. The engine system is around 200 degrees. The awic is below 100 degrees.

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[fletch]

I modeled my install after Bob's as well. Follow his guidance and you won't go wrong. Yes, you'll need a non-pressurized fill tank with two lines to the AWIC core - one from the bottom of the fill tank to the lower section of the AWIC core, one from the top of the AWIC core to the top of the fill tank. Because the system is non-pressurized, the fluid in the AWIC core and in the tank will find the same level. Yes, cap the top of the front heat exchanger. Sounds like you've got this all understood but post back if you've still got questions.

[idf]

I used a different approach to get the AWC tank fill higher than the tank using some aluminum pipe fittings, 166014
I think the tank is full based on coolant visible at the fill cap which is higher than the tank and after circulating with the pump. I guess it is possible though that there is a bubble in there. Thoughts?

[Dave 53]

You need to install a petcock valve as high as possible on the intercooler to bleed the air out. Be careful drilling the hole. Go too deep and you'll damage the core.

The psi gauge on my fill tank is just for fun. It barely moves, maybe .3 psi.

I'd suggest adding Water Wetter to the distilled water.166016

[idf]

You need to install a petcock valve as high as possible on the intercooler to bleed the air out. Be careful drilling the hole. Go too deep and you'll damage the core.

The psi gauge on my fill tank is just for fun. It barely moves, maybe .3 psi.

I'd suggest adding Water Wetter to the distilled water.166016

I was concerned both about drilling into something I didn't want to and whether the IC is thick enough to tap for a petcock.
Agree about water wetter if climate warm enough not to need antifreeze.

[jforand]

Could you not just do a single tap at the highest point in the IC to the bottom of an elevated atmospheric reservoir? This would be a single penetration/tap if that operation is making you nervous. Air would bubble up and liquid would drain down to replace it. Further, thermal expansion would raise the reservoir level and it would return as it cooled. This is really the same principal as the atmospheric overflow on the radiator. The only difference is they generally have dip tubes just so they can fill/suck from the top (easier access, could easily be a barb off the bottom) and then the radiator cap has a pressure seal, but that is controlling pressure in the cooing system and does not affect the overflow in the least.

The dual porting would certainly support better 'flow' as liquid and air do not need to travel opposing directions in the same tube, but this is only the case on fill and purge. Under normal operation there really should be no flow in these line(s) expect for minimal thermal expansion/contraction.

[Dave 53]

Probably a dozen ways to skin the cat. One issue is having high places in the engine compartment. That small little tank (with the useless fun gauge - I was jealous of you guys with fuel pressure gauges) is the absolute highest object in my engine compartment. It just fits under the engine cover hump. And it's less than an inch above the intercooler bleed petcock. If I open the petcock with the pump running, water flows out, so a tank as you theorize would have to be high enough to overcome that small amount of pressure. It would have to be mounted up under the forward highest part of the engine cover hump. I suspect that would be high enough to overcome this small amount of pressure. I don't think thermal expansion is an issue. The real advantage of your idea is being able to see the water level in the system.

Note added later: After more thought, such a tank plumbed to the high point of the intercooler probably wouldn't indicate the water level in the system. But, a tank plumbed to the radiator cap barb with a cap that had no pressure seal would work if it was possible (and I don't think it is) to mount the tank above the radiator cap. I believe the only way to check water level is...

If you take the tank cap off with the pump running, water boils out. If you take the cap off with the pump off, the tank will have water in it, but that is not a representation of the system being full of water. The way to check water level is to open the radiator cap with the pump running. Admitadly, I haven't done that in a while, like maybe even almost a year / 5,000 miles (my bad). I just did and discovered my pump fuse was blown and I was down about 1.5 quarts!

I use the be able to hear the AWIC pump run before turning over the motor, but since adding a fuel serge tank, the fuel pump is louder and drowns out the AWIC pump. So, I have no idea how long the fuse has been blown, but it's since I added the fuel serge tank a couple of months ago. I have no idea what the root cause of the fuse blowing could be.

I need to start checking the water level (pump on - radiator water level) more often. I don't see any leaks.

[jforand]

The reservoir would definitely need to be the highest point to work best. Conversely, the atmospheric overflow tank on the engine's radiator (not the IC radiator) is not the highest point and has that dip tube which goes to the bottom to be under the fluid level. The magic to that working is the thermal expansion. There is enough expansion to push liquid and air out and down that tube and under the liquid level to truly vent. Then when it does cool back down there is enough volume change to pull liquid up the tube, out the top of the tank, and into the radiator fill neck. Without a significant expansion in the IC cooling circuit you would need to rely on gravity to pull the liquid down and the air be forced back up.

[J R Jones]

@JR I am curious to see your custom body since it seems like you have completely redone it.

blomb, redone or redo is not my agenda. This project started as a VW powered replica of a Ferrari Dino made by a Karma in CA. They were sued by Ferrari and production was limited.
I pulled the body off and sold the VW rolling chassis. I gutted the body to go on a Toyota MR2 chassis and then found the FFR 818.
I bought an unfinished 2014 kit, I am the third owner. I sold the body and trim. I will sell the engine too, I prefer the Acura V6 normally asperated at ~300hp; it is similar or less weight than the H4.
Since the VW pan had limited structure the Dino body is very stout. It is a hand laid cloth unitized body, one piece with doors and hoods.
To drop the body on the 818 chassis, external stuff like the roll bar, door mounts, front and rear mounts had to go.
The Karma design strayed from Dino authenticity, and I have corrected that.
I predict that the Dino will be somewhat heavier than an 818 but the body adds to the structure, The aerodynamics will be better with no turbo plumbing or intake issues.
Styling is subjective; I have always liked the Dino and I do not care for the 818 styling.
jim

[blomb11]

You need to install a petcock valve as high as possible on the intercooler to bleed the air out. Be careful drilling the hole. Go too deep and you'll damage the core.

The psi gauge on my fill tank is just for fun. It barely moves, maybe .3 psi.

I'd suggest adding Water Wetter to the distilled water.166016

I didn’t realize the frozen boost kit came with the remote radiator in-line fill like you have in your picture. Where do you connect the barb that is not shown in your picture and which is right under the cap?

I see you have an NPT fitting at the top of the IC as well. Is this what you are referring to as the petcock valve? I would think this is also to bleed off air. Where does this fitting connect to?

I have never dealt with radiator systems before so I am learning and appreciate all of your input.

[idf]

I didn’t realize the frozen boost kit came with the remote radiator in-line fill like you have in your picture. Where do you connect the barb that is not shown in your picture and which is right under the cap?

I see you have an NPT fitting at the top of the IC as well. Is this what you are referring to as the petcock valve? I would think this is also to bleed off air. Where does this fitting connect to?

I have never dealt with radiator systems before so I am learning and appreciate all of your input.

I realize your questions are to Dave, but I'll chime in with my thoughts as to answers. I don't think the barb under the remote fill cap (or the one on the heat exchanger) needs to be connected to anything. For liquid to come out of either pressure would need to exceed that of the radiator cap and I doubt it ever will. If you wanted, you could connect to a catch can.

The petcock is as you say is to bleed off air. It doesn't need to be connected to anything, other than while bleeding to catch any coolant that may come out. My system is similar to Dave's (sans pressure gauge) except that I plan to add the petcock tomorrow.

[Dave 53]

Yep, what idf said.

I don't have any catch cans. I'm just using distilled water with a bit of Water Wetter, so I'm not worried if any water get's out, which is just a little when I open the intercooler bleed petcock.

When drilling the hole for the bleed petcock valve, I strongly suggest using a drill stop collar or some other method to make sure the drill doesn't get away from you and damage the intercooler core.

If you have a bleed petcock valve on the intercooler, I don't think the little high point tank in necessary because based on my experience, the way to fill / check water level is via the radiator cap at the front of the car with the pump running. I have no reason to open the high point tank cap next to the intercooler.

[blomb11]

Okay so what I thought was just a hose barb in your picture on the corner of the intercooler is the petcock valve. So when filling the system you crack that open to bleed out the air and you fill it at the front radiator. I could run a hose from the barb on the remote tank next to the intercooler to a catch can or something. I think I am getting it. The pictures I was searching at first looked quite different but I see a 1/8 NPT petcock valve that looks similar and would think would do the trick.

Guess I don’t need the expansion tank or other fittings I bought.

[Dave 53]

With the pump running, you can open the radiator cap and water won't pour out.
1. Initially / first time, with pump off, add as much water to the radiator as you can. If you have a tank with a cap near the intercooler, you can fill that until it's full too, then cap it.
2. Start the pump. Water level in the radiator will drop. Add water as it drops until it stays full.
3. Pump still running, open intercooler bleed valve until a solid steam of water is flowing out.
4. Pump still running, top off radiator.

I just let the water pour out of the bleed valve onto the engine because it's just water with a bit of Water Wetter.

This assumes the pump mounted low in the front of the car. Lower than the bottom of the radiator. 166055

[blomb11]

I picked up a rivnut tool off Amazon and man does this make this process to much easier than using the FFR method in the manual.
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I followed similar steps to what Hobby did for installing the Hydramat in the fuel tank. I had to cutoff the bottom of the hanger to allow for clearance in the tank and then to be able to clear the float. I then welded on a spring clip to adjust the angle and hold the AEM fuel pump. The hydramat sits flush on the bottom of the tank. I bent the floats to clear the hydramat and pump, but I also had to bend it since the FFR tank is shorter so this makes sense it will read full and empty correctly. I also added fuel cell foam on the driver's side of the tank to help limit the sloshing as well. I could not get a picture of the hydramat installed so this is an earlier picture but is how it sits in the tank.

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I am reusing the Cobb fuel rails, fuel lines, and 1050X injectors I had on my STI which fit on the EJ207 pretty nicely with some adjustments. I ran the 6AN lines down the tank to the side and through the rear firewall. The feed line goes through the firewall up to my ethanol sensor and then into the Cobb fuel rails. On the return it leaves the fuel rails and goes into the FPR then back down through the firewall and back to the tank. I connected the vent line on the fuel sender to the roll over vent on the tank and ran it through the firewall and up to another roll over vent (not shown) which mounts right next to the ethanol sensor. Hopefully these two 5/16" vent lines will help with the slow filling issue I read about and of course will allow the tank to breath.

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[blomb11]

I started using the corrugated tubing provided in the kit, but then switched from the recommendation from Justin. I ordered the radiator hoses and tube joiners he mentioned previously in this thread. I went with a CSF radiator which I raised by 0.25" to clear the steering rack. On the top side I was able to modify the OEM mounts as noted in the manual and then used aluminum spacers cut to 0.7".

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I was able to cut the radiator hoses to be able to route the through both sides of the frame in front of the cockpit. On the passenger side I have the hose connecting to a straight aluminum joiner and then on the driver side I used the 135 degree aluminum joiner. I need to drop in a battery before I secure the hose on the radiator outlet so that I can get the hose in a good spot before clamping it down. On both sides where the hoses exit the frame to go down the sides and aft the hoses make a very tight turn and the hoses are squeezed making them more elliptical that round, but hopefully this will not be a big impact. On the hose coming out of the engine from the coolant crossover pipe I used the 2nd straight aluminum joiner to make the hose go around the trailing link. I had to cut down the lengths of the aluminum coolant tubes provided in the kit to work with the rubber radiator hoses. I found a Youtube video showing how to modify Harbor Freight wire crimpers to make a simple tube beading tool. It is not as good as using a real tool, but it gets the job done. I had to heat up the aluminum pipe to be able to form the material. I will use this same method on the AWIC install.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLMqU7Yh89w

I made a bracket out of aluminum angle iron to mount the coolant expansion (degas?) tank. I then mounted the overflow tank on the rear firewall behind the driver. I capped the 2 overflow barbs on the radiator and then connected the expansion tank to the Wayne cooling mod on the coolant crossover pipe.

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Up next: Shifter, AWIC, and wiring harness

[idf]

I realize your questions are to Dave, but I'll chime in with my thoughts as to answers. I don't think the barb under the remote fill cap (or the one on the heat exchanger) needs to be connected to anything. For liquid to come out of either pressure would need to exceed that of the radiator cap and I doubt it ever will. If you wanted, you could connect to a catch can.

The petcock is as you say is to bleed off air. It doesn't need to be connected to anything, other than while bleeding to catch any coolant that may come out. My system is similar to Dave's (sans pressure gauge) except that I plan to add the petcock tomorrow.

Petcock installed. I used my big yellow funnel to create a few more inches of water pressure and the bleeder appeared to work well. 166163

[blomb11]

What is the max height of the AWIC to be able to fit under the engine panel? I am at ~9.5" because I had to make an adapter bracket to install the ZeroDB AWIC bracket to my 6spd. If needed I could redo this bracket to bring it down ~1".

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[idf]

What is the max height of the AWIC to be able to fit under the engine panel? I am at ~9.5" because I had to make an adapter bracket to install the ZeroDB AWIC bracket to my 6spd. If needed I could redo this bracket to bring it down ~1".

166271

That measurement on my car is just over 6 inches. The engine cover clears it by about 1 in. It looks as if you are going to need to angle the IC down further to clear.

[jforand]

Can't answer the AWIC height question, but speaking of max heights... I was looking at your plumbing pics and see your Tilton brake reservoir. I am wondering if that is going to clear the hood? I mounted mine on the little fiberglass ledge formed in the black fiberglass arch that secures the front of the dash down to the frame. So, I am significantly further back and only clear the hood by maybe 3/4" inch or so.

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Ok, it was bugging me so I just went out to the garage and did some rough measurements. It appears I have mine mounted about 1.5" higher than yours (assuming you bolted through the middle of the bar. I used a level to come forward horizontally to your rough location and took the vertical measurement. It appears the hood drops about 1.5" in that distance and location. You might end up with the same ~3/4" clearance I have.

[blomb11]

That measurement on my car is just over 6 inches. The engine cover clears it by about 1 in. It looks as if you are going to need to angle the IC down further to clear.

Good thing I asked now! Looks like I will need to reduce my mount by 3" so back to the drawing board.


Can't answer the AWIC height question, but speaking of max heights... I was looking at your plumbing pics and see your Tilton brake reservoir. I am wondering if that is going to clear the hood? I mounted mine on the little fiberglass ledge formed in the black fiberglass arch that secures the front of the dash down to the frame. So, I am significantly further back and only clear the hood by maybe 3/4" inch or so.

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Ok, it was bugging me so I just went out to the garage and did some rough measurements. It appears I have mine mounted about 1.5" higher than yours (assuming you bolted through the middle of the bar. I used a level to come forward horizontally to your rough location and took the vertical measurement. It appears the hood drops about 1.5" in that distance and location. You might end up with the same ~3/4" clearance I have.

I used this thread to help decide where to mount the Tilton reservoir. I am also saving space to add a wiper in that are since I am going to register this thing (hopefully). I need to do that quick in CA before they ban everything!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?32447-Remote-reservoir-location&highlight=wiper

[blomb11]

Been working on a few things in parallel. I am waiting for my last set of ZeroDB brackets to finish the AWIC. I got the VCP K tuned shifter installed. The kit I bought off of Wallace came with two 96” cables to go around the A/C I guess. I deleted the A/C so I ended up ordering an 84” cable. I will need to make a reverse lockout bracket and run the cable up to the shifter. I am waiting until I get the harness in and figure what to do about the center console.

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The first set of cable holes I cut on the rear firewall were too high and I noticed once I was mocking up the interior firewall. I installed rivenuts along the top and then added PEM nuts on the bottom to try and make it easy to take out and put back in. The only issue I am seeing is the small piece that rivets to the larger firewall sheet. I riveted these together but now I am not sure I will be able to install or get it out easily with the harness and shifter cables. I was thinking about using some more PEM nuts since rivnuts are too long. Has anyone else made theirs removable?

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Up next is to finish the AWIC and install the wiring harness.

[fletch]

Not an R builder and still in progress. Been gokarting for 18 months or so. I have never had to remove the cables once installed. I did make my rear firewall removable but haven’t had to pull it out (yet). Hope that’s useful info.

[blomb11]

Maybe I just riveted them together too soon. I can drill them out so that I can insert the wiring harness and the cables in the cutout and then rivet the panels back together.

My concern is if I ever need to get at the fuel pump down the road because that part of the firewall would not be removable because of the rivets, wiring harness, and shifter cables keeping it in place. For the first start I want to leave those panels off to make sure there are no leaks or other fuel issues.

[carnutdave]

blomb11, this is what I ended up doing with my firewall. I had similar concerns about being able to remove it later on. The small middle panel is riveted to the drivers side firewall and connected to the passenger side with rivnuts. The way they overlap is different than what the manual says. When I did the carpeting, I carpeted the drivers side and passenger side firewalls separately so I can remove them one at at time (I have the coupe). I've taken them out once since the car has been "together" and it's difficult but it does work. Takes a bit of maneuvering.
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[jforand]

I have the original firewall, but I can tell you that even from the go kart stage, I have had to take the firewall out a bazillion times. I used rivet nuts everywhere. There is just too much stuff behind it to think you will never go there again. If we weren't,t car people maybe, but I think we are all afflicted as we are all building one....

[NISMO_RB25]

blomb11, this is what I ended up doing with my firewall. I had similar concerns about being able to remove it later on. The small middle panel is riveted to the drivers side firewall and connected to the passenger side with rivnuts. The way they overlap is different than what the manual says. When I did the carpeting, I carpeted the drivers side and passenger side firewalls separately so I can remove them one at at time (I have the coupe). I've taken them out once since the car has been "together" and it's difficult but it does work. Takes a bit of maneuvering.
167755

Good idea. I got to that point yesterday and realized I was going to be drilling out my rivets.

[blomb11]

Still working on wrangling the octopus of a wiring harness and trying to see how to get it to fit nicely. I have both fuse boxes up front and then the ECU and the relays (fuel and light) will be mounted on one of the interior firewall panels behind the seats. The battery cable FFR provided does not fit the 26R positive battery post so that is annoying. I will have to cut it off and crimp on one that does fit. There is a large section of the hardness that could be removed to shorten everything post the fuel pump to the rear headlights. I just have this coiled up on top of the fuel tank for now. I want to start it before I cut anything else out.

I noticed I really don't like hearing my own voice and sound very mono-toned haha so I apologize for that. However, she powers on and I even got the fuel pump to turn on so that is a good thing!


https://www.youtube.com/shorts/F1VP7wWlUNE

I am waiting for my ZeroDB brackets to show up so I can finish the AWIC. I then need to wrap my header, buy and wrap a DP, get a wideband sensor, a fuel pressure sensor, and fill it with fluids and I am ready to start it for the first time!

[blomb11]

The AWIC is installed minus the water pump wiring. This took a lit longer to get everything installed and waiting on brackets to be made. I had to make a lot of modification in order to make it work with my set up. I order the kit through Zero Decibel to get Craig's brackets and the Frozen Boost AWIC kit. First I chose to retain the the stock BPV which required drilling new holes and cutting the flanges to fit the Greddy style BOV gasket and mount. I also extended the BPV valve tubing in order to reach the BPV from the turbo inlet. Next I had to modify and remove about 3" from the ZeroDB rear AWIC mount since I raised my engine 1.5" and have a 6spd. You can see in one of the last pictures it took several attempts to make my sheetmetal bracket. It was a bit challenging to bend the aluminum using a vice so I learned it required planning out the features ahead of certain bends to make it work. Next I had to modify the front bracket for the AWIC again due to having a 6spd, raised engine, and AOS in that same area. It is definitely not pretty since I do not have an AL welder but it will work. I ran the outlet of the AWIC down the driver side, the inlet down the passenger side, and located the water pump up front behind the battery. I switch the inlet/outlet of the heat exchanger to be similar to what Bob_n_Cincy did. I connected the inlet to the bottom of the heat exchanger to allow for the air to bubble up to the top.

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[blomb11]

I have done a few other things while I was waiting for parts to arrive and prep for the first start. I wrapped my header and up pipe with DEI titanium wrap and applied their silicone heat spray. I installed the brake pads, bled the clutch, and bled brake lines. I learned the right rear bracket needed to be moved outward by 0.03" so I made some stainless spacers and then of course the left rear needed to go inward 0.03" so I had to grind the bracket down. I tired to use a hole saw to get the correct OD of the spacer and drilled out the center for the M14 bolt. Not the prettiest again but it worked. I took my time to grind down the left rear to try and get it as flat as possible, but I made extra spacers in case I need to bring it back OB. I learned the hard way I did not tighten a couple of the brake line couplers and spilled about half a bottle of fluid on the garage floor :rolleyes:oops.

I installed an iWire VSS Pro to the front right wheel to measure the wheel speed and feed into the vehicle speed sensor since the 6spd I have does not have a speed sensor. We will see how this works since it is not on a power wheel on the rear.

169334 169335

Last weekend I completed the vacuum lines and connecting to the Perrin EBCS. I had to make a small bracket from AL sheetmetal to mount it to the intake manifold. The transmission and the engine both now have oil in them so next is to fill both coolant systems. I am working on wiring up a fuel pressure senor, oil pressure/temperature, and wide band sensor before I attempt to start it. I am going to prime the engine a few times to try and get oil pressure first since the engine has been sitting for over a year at this point. I bought a VF37 downpipe bell mouth so I am looking at what my exhaust set up will be. I will need to get a 60* bend SS304 tube and then I think I will connect it to a Vibrant TPV muffler to try and quiet it down some. My brother in law got a welder capable of stainless steel so I think I will try welding it myself. Then I will give it the same DEI wrap treatment.

Lots in work and my first start is looming very soon!

[blomb11]

I have run into a snag trying to get my first start. I am able to turn the engine over, build oil pressure, and build fuel pressure, but no spark. I pulled a couple plugs, grounded them, and noticed I was not getting any spark. So I started digging into my harness dieting and I think I might have found one thing I might have missed. I removed the keyless entry but left the body integrated unit. Well some of the body integrated unit that was left after I removed other systems.

I removed pin 12 from the keyless entry control module but this connect la to the starter cut relay. I think this needs to be connected to something else, but I am not exactly sure what. I was thinking maybe it needs to be connected to F-15 fuse number 18 since I removed that as well. FFR mentioned in his diet he removed both modules and was able to start his car. So I just need to figure out what to connect it to or bypass it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

169776

[FFRWRX]

I sent you a PM, but since it may help others, I'll reply here too. I had my engine crank and crank but not fire. Turned out it was the immobilizer antenna that I didn't have plugged in. A 2 wire connector that goes to the ring around the key switch.

I hope that is it for you too as it is an easy fix.

Rick

[blomb11]

I have the immobilizer antenna and module plugged in. I should have mentioned this part, but I did remove a couple wires from the immobilizer module during my diet. It seems to be isolated to the starting circuit since the engine cranks but does not fire. This is why I thought it might be due to the cutting the RB wire between the starter cut relay and the keyless entry module as shown in the picture of the schematic (post #154). It seems like this needs to be connected to complete the starter cut relay circuit. I am not sure what to connect it to...

[FFRWRX]

Not sure I can help any more since it was 2 years ago I did the wire diet. If it isn't in my build thread then it really isn't anywhere. When I did something that got the car running I usually just moved on from there without making any notes on what I did.

But if you can't sort it out and want to help me jog my memory, you can send me a shot of the "starter cut relay" (so I can remember which one that is and where it is) and maybe I can see where I ran that wire.

Rick

[blomb11]

I will check the ECU pin out again. The picture of the starter cut relay is 4 posts up.

[FFRWRX]

I meant a picture of the actual really itself, not the schematic. I deleted a lot of relays so I probably won't know by looking at mine which one it is unless I see a picture of it.

[blomb11]

Here is a picture of the relay and it is the 3rd one from the left with the yellow/blue and red/white wire. I confirmed I get more than 10V on both red/white wires when I turn the key to start and push the clutch in. However, I get 0V on the yellow/blue wire which connects to the ECU.

169815

[FFRWRX]

So that relay is the starter interlock relay, correct? Reading over my build thread again, particularly post #10, it looks like that is the only relay I kept from that block. You can see I connected the red/white ones together (which from the schematic, they already are together), but I don't remember where the black/white one is going. I'll have a look at the car and see if that will help me. Also, I mentioned a Mechie3 mod for getting rid of the starter-cut relay, which I did get rid of. Someone asked me about that a while back and I couldn't find any info on it. Sorry to be pretty unhelpful with this. But somehow I don't think it has anything to do with these relays since these are all for the starter, and your starter is working.

[blomb11]

Here is the starter cut relay B422 and you can see the small red wire I cut the went to the keyless entry module. I connected the ground by the tail lights and now I get 10v out of the starter interlock relay B225 pin 28 which goes to the ECU. Still no spark…

169824

[blomb11]

I am still sorting through things to try and get my first start. I have moved away from the starter cut relay being the culprit. Thanks to RPGs818SNA for offering some suggestions on things to check. When I removed the keyless entry module I cut pin 15 (WG wire) which connected to pin 9 (B141) of the IMM ECM. This wire has 11V on it with the key off and during start. I tried grounding this wire to see if that would help, but I am still not able to get spark. I went through the "Diagnostics for Engine Starting Failure" procedures to verify my starter motor circuit seems good and the engine power/ground is good as well. I do not have a front O2 sensor and I have a wideband O2 sensor on the rear O2. I get 10V at the coil packs so something is keeping the ECU from sending the signal to spark.

I got the steering column, IMM ECM, and key from the same vehicle donor so I do not think there is any mismatch here. All of these items are electrically connected too. I did check the key has a small chip in it since I heard it rattling in it.

I did learn the Neutral Position Switch (NPS) differs between models and years. Since I have an '07 WRX wiring harness/ECU and a '05 Legacy Spec B 6sp transmission the NPS are different. I ordered the correct one and will swap that later this week. Maybe this is also keeping the ECU from sending the spark signal. I also need to adjust the clutch because I am not sure the through bearing is seated thus not allowing the clutch disengage when I depress the clutch pedal, but the engine still turns over.
https://iwireusa.com/blogs/iwire-university/neutral-position-switch-and-your-subaru-transmission-swap

I did check and pull the codes using the test connector. There are a couple of interest which specifically the first two which may be inhibiting spark:

1. P1518 MFG control – starter circuit low - I measure 10.2V at the starter (YL wire) and 10.4V at the start interlock relay
2. P0851 Park neutral switch circuit low – will swap with correct NPS hopefully to resolve
3. P0183 Fuel temp sensor high
4. P1152 MFG control – O2 sensor - no front O2 sensor and running wideband sensor on rear O2 wired into ECU signal
5. P1153 MFG control – O2 sensor - no front O2 sensor and running wideband sensor on rear O2 wired into ECU signal
6. P0502 vehicle speed circuit low - only have one wheel speed sensor and using iWire VSS Pro
7. P0503 vehicle speed sensor a intermittent - I only have one wheel speed sensor and am using iWire VSS Pro
8. P2016 TGV - TGVs deleted
9. P2021 TGV - TGVs deleted
10. P2008 TGV - TGVs deleted
11. P2011 TGV - TGVs deleted
12. P2431 secondary air - Secondary air pump deleted
13. P2433 secondary air - Secondary air pump deleted
14. P0418 secondary air - Secondary air pump deleted
15. P0140 O2 sensor circuit - no front O2 sensor and running wideband sensor on rear O2 wired into ECU signal

[blomb11]

Help! I am still trying to figure out why I have no spark. I am back to thinking it has something to do with the immobilizer.

I checked the crankshaft gear for any broken teeth and measured the signal with a scope. All of the teeth are accounted for and the signal looks good. I measured the cam position signal as well. I get 10v to the coil packs but no signal to have them spark still so it seems like the immobilizer is holding it back. I installed a new MAF, new coolant temp sensor, MAP sensor looks okay, and the DBW is working. The engine and sensors seem to be working just fine.

I got the steering column, IMM ECM, and key from the same vehicle donor. I probed out the IMM ECM per the schematic and everything seems to be connected and I get voltages. However, I tried wiring in 2 bulbs in series (per RPGs818SNA's suggestion) to see if I get any blinking or solid lights. I get 12V to the bulbs but nothing lights up when I turn the key on or even when I start it. So it seems like something is happening with the IMM and maybe removing the security system. I deleted the keyless entry module and impact sensor during my dieting. Guess I can try adding the keyless entry module back in to see if that helps.

I am open to any other suggestions. Others here have deleted the keyless entry and security system on 06-07 WRX so I am not sure what I did wrong.

[blomb11]

Getting a little closer! I had someone come out to reprogram my key and immobilizer which seemed to help. It tried to start and I notice I now see a spark signal. Time to pull the codes, check ignition, and timing to see if there is anything to note.


https://youtu.be/tOONen4Sx3s

[STiPWRD]

Congrats on the partial start-up! In case the issue is not with the immobilizer, I had a few other ideas. You may have already done this but check all the power and ground wires on the ECU. The power wires should be receiving 12V from the fuse box and the ground wires should all zero out to chassis.

You mentioned you're not running a front O2 sensor, can you elaborate on that? The front O2 sensor measures AFR and helps the ECU maintain closed loop fueling (at idle and part throttle). It also actively tells the ECU to add or remove fuel as the engine runs, this allows the ECU to learn the short and long term fuel trim levels. Are you saying you have nothing plugged in for this sensor? The engine can definitely run without a rear O2 sensor but I don't think it could run without a front AFR sensor.

Which wideband signal are you running to the ECU? Does your gauge have a 0-1V analog output? That's what the ECU is expecting to see for the rear O2 signal. Hopefully you're not using the 0-5V signal a normal wideband would put out.

The last thing I noticed is that you're measuring ~10V at some of these locations. That seems a bit on the low side and may not meet certain ECU thresholds (i.e. 10.9V). Have you checked if your battery is fully charged? Or whether you have a voltage drop across your wiring?

[blomb11]

Congrats on the partial start-up! In case the issue is not with the immobilizer, I had a few other ideas. You may have already done this but check all the power and ground wires on the ECU. The power wires should be receiving 12V from the fuse box and the ground wires should all zero out to chassis.

You mentioned you're not running a front O2 sensor, can you elaborate on that? The front O2 sensor measures AFR and helps the ECU maintain closed loop fueling (at idle and part throttle). It also actively tells the ECU to add or remove fuel as the engine runs, this allows the ECU to learn the short and long term fuel trim levels. Are you saying you have nothing plugged in for this sensor? The engine can definitely run without a rear O2 sensor but I don't think it could run without a front AFR sensor.

Which wideband signal are you running to the ECU? Does your gauge have a 0-1V analog output? That's what the ECU is expecting to see for the rear O2 signal. Hopefully you're not using the 0-5V signal a normal wideband would put out.

The last thing I noticed is that you're measuring ~10V at some of these locations. That seems a bit on the low side and may not meet certain ECU thresholds (i.e. 10.9V). Have you checked if your battery is fully charged? Or whether you have a voltage drop across your wiring?

I have checked all of the ignition and power supply pins on the ECU and they all have 12V. I also checked the ground recently and they all measure 0V.

The EJ207 header does not have a front O2 sensor port so I do not have a sensor connected to the wiring harness. Instead I have an Innovate Wideband O2 sensor connected where I wired in the analog wire from the wideband sensor to B19 pin 1 which connects to B4 on the ECU. I think this requires a tune to set it up so that the ECU can use this sensor signal. From the Innovate manual it says it is a 0-5V signal equating to 7.35-22.39 AFR. I thought you could do closed loop fueling using a wideband sensor on the rear maybe I misread the EcuTek site.

I have been keeping my battery on a tender to keep it charged. I have noticed it drains quickly while cranking. I am getting a P1518 MFG control code which says the starter circuit is low. I used the FSM diagnostic steps to check and I thought it was good, but I will check the power circuit again to see if I can find any voltage drops. I was going to borrow a jump pack to see if this would help me get it started.

[STiPWRD]

I have checked all of the ignition and power supply pins on the ECU and they all have 12V. I also checked the ground recently and they all measure 0V.

The EJ207 header does not have a front O2 sensor port so I do not have a sensor connected to the wiring harness. Instead I have an Innovate Wideband O2 sensor connected where I wired in the analog wire from the wideband sensor to B19 pin 1 which connects to B4 on the ECU. I think this requires a tune to set it up so that the ECU can use this sensor signal. From the Innovate manual it says it is a 0-5V signal equating to 7.35-22.39 AFR. I thought you could do closed loop fueling using a wideband sensor on the rear maybe I misread the EcuTek site.

I have been keeping my battery on a tender to keep it charged. I have noticed it drains quickly while cranking. I am getting a P1518 MFG control code which says the starter circuit is low. I used the FSM diagnostic steps to check and I thought it was good, but I will check the power circuit again to see if I can find any voltage drops. I was going to borrow a jump pack to see if this would help me get it started.

Thanks for clarifying. Are you using a twin scroll, in which case the JDM header is necessary (I'm not sure if these are specific to the twin scroll)? If not, do you have a USDM header laying around that could be put on to verify that the missing AFR sensor is not causing the issue?

I don't think the way you have the wideband wired will work. The ECU is expecting to see a 0-1V signal coming from the front AFR sensor, it is not setup to read a 0-5V signal from the Innovate. Same goes for the rear oxygen sensor - the ECU expects to see 0-1V. Some wideband gauges come with both a 0-5V and 0-1V analog output wires (AEM Uego for example) but I've never heard of one of those being used for closed loop fuel control. Generally, since the wideband takes the place of a rear oxygen sensor on most cars, you can wire the 0-1V analog output of the wideband into the rear O2 wire on the ECU. This helps keep the catalyst efficiency code from popping up (the car thinks there is still a stock rear O2 sensor plugged in).

Since you're able to get the starter to crank, I think you've got plenty of juice there. The 10V you mentioned at the coil packs is what I was more curious about, that seems low. They should be getting 12V from the fuse box (pin 3 on the coils, red wire). I'd check the power and ground at the coils & injectors next.

[blomb11]

Yes the EJ207 has a VF37 twin scroll turbo so I am using the JDM header. I do not have a USDM WRX header. Worst case I could try adding a bung to install a O2 sensor on it to act as the front O2 sensor.

It looks like the AEM Uego Wideband sensor is also a 0-5V output.
https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/gauges/digital-gauges/x-series-wideband-uego-afr-sensor-controller-gauge

[STiPWRD]

Would the front o2 sensor wiring stretch far enough for you to install it in place of the wideband? Might be worth a shot.

You're right about the AEM. I must've been thinking about the PLX M300. I had one of the old gen versions of those. Here's the new one:
https://www.plxdevices.com/Wideband-O2-Air-Fuel-Ratio-Sensor-and-Module-Combo-p/897346002290.htm

[blomb11]

After the video of the engine trying to start I am back to a no spark condition. I installed a front O2 sensor, added a ground strap to the starter, swapped in a new starter, and put the stock injectors back in. Swapping the started did not do anything so I think my old one is fine. Adding the ground strap did increase my starter circuit voltage from 10.3V to 11.1V but I still get the P1518 code. I even had a jump pack on the battery and I still get the code and no spark. I am wondering if I need to flash the ECU with a map that deletes the TGV and secondary air pump codes since they are deleted. I only have 3 gallons of gas in it so maybe I need a fuller tank for a first start?

Is there a way that getting it to sputter and not having a front O2 on it unpaired the immobilizer?

I am checking the timing marks as well to see if they are still aligned.

[STiPWRD]

The TGV and air pump codes won't prevent the engine from running. You may have gone over some of this already but you've got to have fuel, spark and compression. This is what I would do next to verify the following:

Compression: If you saw the engine running before and you know it's in good shape, you're good to go. If this is unknown, you could test the cylinder pressures with a compression tester, these tools are cheap at harbor freight.

Fuel: Disconnect the fuel supply line from the fuel rail, put it into a bottle and see if it starts pumping fuel when you prime the fuel pump (ignition on). If you have spark and compression, you could also check the fuel injectors - they should all have a similar resistance value. Make sure the fuel is not old, it can go bad if it sits for a while.

Spark: Remove the spark plugs/coils, ground them to chassis and see if they actually spark. If not, check the resistances on the coils (I think you replaced all of those so they're probably fine). Check that the coils are getting a signal from the ECU. If not, there may be some immobilizer related issue that I'm not well equipped to solve. Another thing you could try is buying an 05 or older ECU - these do not have an immobilizer, they're not too expensive.

[blomb11]

The TGV and air pump codes won't prevent the engine from running. You may have gone over some of this already but you've got to have fuel, spark and compression. This is what I would do next to verify the following:

Compression: If you saw the engine running before and you know it's in good shape, you're good to go. If this is unknown, you could test the cylinder pressures with a compression tester, these tools are cheap at harbor freight.

Fuel: Disconnect the fuel supply line from the fuel rail, put it into a bottle and see if it starts pumping fuel when you prime the fuel pump (ignition on). If you have spark and compression, you could also check the fuel injectors - they should all have a similar resistance value. Make sure the fuel is not old, it can go bad if it sits for a while.

Spark: Remove the spark plugs/coils, ground them to chassis and see if they actually spark. If not, check the resistances on the coils (I think you replaced all of those so they're probably fine). Check that the coils are getting a signal from the ECU. If not, there may be some immobilizer related issue that I'm not well equipped to solve. Another thing you could try is buying an 05 or older ECU - these do not have an immobilizer, they're not too expensive.

When I bought the EJ207 I had it compression tested and it was good. I still have good compression because when I have removed a spark plug to test you can hear/feel the air coming out the spark plug hole.

I can hear the fuel pump, smell gas, and have verified I have voltage on the fuel injector signals. I am pretty sure I am getting fuel and when I changed the injectors the other night my hands were soaked in gas. The gas is 1 month old.

Spark plugs and coils are new. I get power to the coils but no signal from the ECU. I am going to check to make sure the timing belt did not jump any and if that is good them I will call the locksmith to come back out to reprogram the immobilizer again. I can call my local subaru wrecker to see if I can buy/return one to use as a check.

[RPGs818SNA]

Hey Brandon,

I believe you mentioned that your combination meter is not from the same donor as the key, ECM, body integrated unit, and immobilizer. If the following description is correct, the mismatched combination meter should keep the engine from running for more than a few seconds, or from starting at all. That’s just what I see on your video. That doesn’t mean it IS the cause, but it could be.

171638

You might see if you can get that Immobilizer LED working to verify it’s the cause, or see if your guy can set the combination meter ID to match the other components, or swap out the ECM for a 2005 one. Perhaps I can help with the first item.

The original immobilizer LED was connected between Fuse #2 or B141 pin 3 blue red and B141 pin 5 brown red inside the gauge cluster. If your cluster wires are too hard to access, you can use B141 pins 3 and 5 wired up like this.

171639

Note that the LED must be current limited, so for 12 volts, it needs a limiting resistor in series of around 1000 ohms. There may be one built into the IMM ECM, in which case you can directly connect one as shown above. The longer LED wire (+) goes to pin 3.

If the IMM ECM doesn’t limit the current, the LED may burn out, but that shouldn’t hurt the IMM ECM. A 12v LED has the limiting resistor built in, so it won’t burn out. That would work if the limiting resistor is built into the combination meter. One of those options should work.

Then look for the LED to light with the key in the ignition, meaning an immobilizer problem. If it doesn’t light with the key, it should flash every 3 seconds when the key is removed, meaning the LED and perhaps the immobilizer is working and the problem is something else. If it doesn't light at all, the problem is likely to be the immobilizer ECM.

Best of luck with all this,
RPG

[Ajzride]

Swapping the ECU is a no-go. Subaru changed the pin outs on the immobilizer ECUs so that thieves couldn’t walk around with older non-immobilizer ECUs and just plug them in to steal the car. You have to rewire the engine bay to swap to an older ECU. I almost went down this road and have a spreadsheet showing the cross mappings if you decide to investigate.

[RPGs818SNA]

"Swapping the ECU is a no-go." per Ajzride.

Well that's disappointing, but I guess it would make stealing a car more troublesome. It also appears from the following bulletin that registered locksmiths can make someone a new key and register the key's ID with the immobilizer, but there's no mention of reprogramming the combination meter ID.
https://subaru.locksmithsdrm.com/SubaruSDRM/downloads/subaru_service_bulletin.pdf Perhaps your locksmith knows how to.

I suppose another alternative is to find a local salvage yard with an 06 WRX with a wrecked engine but intact combination meter, body integrated unit, ECM, steering column lock, and a key or two they would sell as a set. Here's a possible donor at Copart but in Phoenix.
https://www.copart.com/lot/42379272/salvage-2006-subaru-impreza-wrx-sti-az-phoenix

Best of luck finding your way over this hurdle.

RPG

[Ajzride]

Before going too far Into the Immobilizer problem, hook up a light to the output of the immobilizer and see if it’s flashing. It definitely sounds like an immobilizer problem, but verify before going too far down that road.

For a 2006 you do not need a combination meter that matches your ECU and immobilizer, I don’t even have a combination gauge. I have a matched ECU/Immobilizer/Key and nothing else. I’m on my second set after I smoked my first ECU. About $350 on eBay for a second column/Key/ECU/Immobilizer set.

[blomb11]

Well that was a pain!! Of course being a dummy I locked down all of the timing belt covers and ended up having spin and not come out. So I had to take the dremel and remove the head to get the left cover off. Good thing I did not have any coolant yet so I could move hoses out of the way. All of the timing marks are still lined up so that is good news. This check really confirms everything with the engine is fine and I am back to the immobilizer.

I did try using 2 bulbs in series and connected to my cluster. I do not get any blinking lights or any light for that matter from the IMM ECM so this is kind of concerning. However, after the locksmith came out to reprogram it that is when I got it to almost turn over. So could there have been something to cause the IMM ECM to be unpaired or locked out and require a reprogramming again? For instance I did not have a front O2 sensor connected. I am going to check my fuses again to make sure there is no issue there. I could look at buying another IMM ECM off eBay to see if that is the culprit. Can't you just have them reprogrammed and not have to buy column/Key/ECU/Immobilizer as a set?

[Ajzride]

if the IMM is not flashing a light hooked up between pins 3 and 5 while the car of off, then you have an IMM problem. I am not aware of the ability to reprogram one, but then I never dug too much into it.

[blomb11]

I spoke to a local dealer and explained my current situation. They confirmed the key, IMM, and the ECU must be the same because the VIN is burned into each unit. So there is no switching nor reprogramming which is a bummer. I mentioned how I got a locksmith to reprogram the key/IMM and that is sputtered a couple times. So that engine only running a couple seconds then dying plus no security light they recommended replacing all 3 units. I called my local Subaru wrecker and they are going to get me VIN matching units for a casual $550 (ouch). Hopefully this will do the trick.

I have tried to keep busy in between my electrical goose hunt. I was able to use Hobby's reverse lockout lever design and make one for myself. Same approach was to reuse the OEM one by cutting off the cylinder and welding it onto a piece of steel sheetmetal. I had to notch the VCP shifter arm for the future cable and make some bends to make everything clear. It came out pretty nice.

171922171923171924171925

Given that I have raised the engine and am provisioning to add more to the frame for a rear wing I needed to create my own downpipe/exhaust. I found a VF37 twin scroll bellmouth on eBay which fit pretty well. I did have to open one hole up slightly. I order a 60 deg SS303 bend of Summit Racing and cut some off one end to get the angle and clearance right to the diagonal bar on the frame. This was the first time I have welded SS so I had to practice a little and use a grinder to clean things up. I was able to add an additional bung so I can have both the front and wide band O2 sensors there since the JDM uppipe does not have a bung. The welds are not pretty but they will do. Once I get the bumper on I can figure out the exit so I can cut the pipe to length to weld in the Vibrant TPV muffler I bought as well.

171926171927171928

I ordered one Konig Freeform 18x9.5 wheel to see if it would fit. I needed to add a 15mm spacer to clear the rear Cadillac brembos and the trailing arm. There is a ~4.5mm gap between the inside of the wheel and trailing arm but this is with eyeballing it and no alignment. The wheels are toe in slightly it seems so I think they will fit.

171929

[Ajzride]

Yikes. I paid $350 for mine and kind of wish I had spent a little more on an aftermarket ECU. At $550 I would be leaning really hard on aftermarket.

[Hobby Racer]

Wow, I have an ECU, IMM and Key/receiver from a 2006 WRX that I did not use from my donor that I can sell you cheap! If interested drop me a PM.

[Sgt.Gator]

Yikes. I paid $350 for mine and kind of wish I had spent a little more on an aftermarket ECU. At $550 I would be leaning really hard on aftermarket.

I agree. If you go aftermarket all these issues with Immobilizers, Key Fobs, TGV deletes, and inability to tune with a Cobb AP anymore, go away.

[blomb11]

Yes I thought about it briefly because the immobilizer stuff has been a challenge. However, I do want to be able to register the car so an aftermarket standalone ECU might pose as a challenge but would require more investigation on my part. Plus I have a plan with a local tuner to use EcuTek and not sure if they support standalone ECUs. Plus I am already stressing the budget so at least right now it's not really an option but could be down the road even if it costs more.

Plus John (Hobby Racer) gave me a killer deal on repurposing parts from his donor to try swapping out for on my car. I should get them tomorrow so hopefully this will do the trick.

[blomb11]

Its alive! Thanks for John for sending me the ECU, IMM ECM, key, and ignition key cylinder. After swapping out those items she fired right up. Now onto cleaning up the wiring, getting wheels, and then to go-karting.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4fUwiw4QnXs

[FFRWRX]

Excellent! I'm really pleased for you. I know how frustrating it can be to get something like this running when you keep trying different things that don't help. I almost sold my first Cobra, half built, due to a non-start issue.

Rick

[blomb11]

Does anyone know the thread for the plastic drain plug on the Frozen Boost heat exchanger? I have a small leak from the plastic plug or it’s o-ring.

[idf]

Does anyone know the thread for the plastic drain plug on the Frozen Boost heat exchanger? I have a small leak from the plastic plug or it’s o-ring.

I had the same issue with that plug. I think it was at least in part because the weld holding the bung prevented the plug from screwing all the way in. Because I wanted to install a drain petcock I tried to figure out what the thread was and decided 3/8 pipe taper. However, I was not able to make the petcock leakproof despite thread sealer and various options of crush washers and o rings. Ultimately put thread sealer on the plastic plug, used a thicker o ring and tightend it more than felt comfortable.

I had a couple of other issues with that heat exchanger. The plug in the port for a temperature sensor was cross threaded. I drilled out and tapped the bung for the next larger plug. The pressure cap on top leaked with fluid coming out the pressure relief tap. That was too long and protruded into the filler neck. After shortening it, there was still a leak. Although the cap looked perfect I replaced it with a new one which fixed it.

To answer your original question probably best to check with Frozen Boost, and let me know what you learn.

[blomb11]

I had the same issue with that plug. I think it was at least in part because the weld holding the bung prevented the plug from screwing all the way in. Because I wanted to install a drain petcock I tried to figure out what the thread was and decided 3/8 pipe taper. However, I was not able to make the petcock leakproof despite thread sealer and various options of crush washers and o rings. Ultimately put thread sealer on the plastic plug, used a thicker o ring and tightend it more than felt comfortable.

I had the same issue the weld prohibited the drain plug from being seated. So I filed it down and then screwed it in, but it looks like the o-ring has cracked. The problem is the system is full of water now so I am not sure if I can use thread sealer without draining it. I can try and use the white tape instead of the liquid sealer like I have been using to see if I can swap it without draining the system.

[blomb11]

Been waiting on wheels to be able to go kart. Originally I went with Konig Freeform (+38 offset) wheels 17x8 for the front and 18x9.5 in the rear. I ordered one 18x9.5 from Discount Tire to use to test fit on the rear. It was a very snug fit even with a +15mm spacer using the Godspeed trailing arms I have installed. Turns out the 17x8 are discontinued, but I thought I had found a retailer who had them. Turns out they charged me for the wheels, but were waiting on Konig which just kept pushing out their ship date. So 3 weeks went buy with no progress so I canceled my order and returned the one I ordered from Discount to order Enkei TSV wheels. Since these Enkei wheels are a higher +45 offset I also ordered the VCP trailing arms to make sure these will fit. I got the wheels mounted on Falken RT660s and am now just waiting for the trailing arms to arrive. Final fitment is 17x8 +45 wheel with 235/40R17 (+10mm spacer) and 18x9.5 with 265/35R18 (+10mm spacer).

174165

In the meantime I have been working on cleaning up the wiring and the interior a bit. I was able to mount the ECU and relays on the inside of the rear firewall. I removed 3-4ft of excess wire from the harness which used to run from the main body harness to the rear harness. I still have some extra fuel wires not being used and I did not want to cut these out just yet. It is still a little busy but much better than it was. I took another note from Hobby and wrapped the interior firewall with carbon fiber vinyl wrap which adds a nice touch and will do the same for the rest of the metal interior. I got the center tunnel mocked up and rivnuts installed, but will hold off on wrapping it until I figure out what to do with the center console and mounting the fuse blocks.

174160

I created a reverse lockout bracket similar to what Hobby had done a couple months back. Now that I have the center tunnel installed I can mount the rev lockout cable right next to the shifter and run the cable back to the bracket. Only issue is this nut will be under the tunnel and will make it a little tricky to remove later....so will need to have some slack in the cable.

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I have started on mounting the body as I wait for my trailing arms. Cutting out the tail lights, center portion of the rear bumper, gas cap, etc. More tips and tricks from Hobby, I am working to enlarge the side sail rear wheel scoops so prepping for this effort now. Then I can fit up everything on the chassis and see how it all fits. Already I see one snag of putting my AWIC water lines too high behind the front wheels because the side sails do not fit over them. I will have to notch these 2 holes to lower the hoses by 0.25".

[blomb11]

I thought I had bled the brakes enough, but I think there was an air bubble hiding in the line (parking) lock I have installed. The pedal still goes to the floor and does not compress the pads at the calipers. I did find a couple loose fittings so I tightened them up and need to bleed the brake system again. Then it is go kart time! I did get it to move up the driveway under its own power so that is good news. I need to revisit the reverse lockout bracket because I am not able to get it into reverse. Hopefully the bracket needs some adjusting or the synchros just need to seat after some driving. It has been really cool to see the car on the ground for the first time and man is it low!! The ride height is at 4" right now and it barely makes it out of the driveway with the correct angle. Might have to consider raising it 0.25"

174960174961

In the meantime I have been working on fitting up the body panels and as noted on the forum this is not going to be as easy as I thought. I am placing all of the panels in place to see where everything fits and then adjust accordingly to make sure the wheels are centered as recommended by others. I did notice I need to move or reduce the height of the remote reservoir for my AWIC because it is hitting the decklid. Then I am having a hard time seeing how the front fenders are supposed to fit with the windshield and side sails. I have the side sails snug in place to the bottom of the frame, the rear of the fenders are resting on the side sails, but the top rear of the fenders are hitting the windshield frame. Are the fenders supposed to be above or below the windshield frame? Do you need to trim the fenders slightly here to clear the windshield frame? And in the last picture I assume the fender is supposed to rest on the flat white mount next to the hood pins right? Are they secured here too somehow (no holes in the tab)?

174962174963174964174965

[blomb11]

I think I answered my own questions based on Harley's 818S thread posts 171 and 173. I need to trim the upper rear fenders where they meet the windshield frame. I then also need to try and seat the windshield down as much as possible to allow for clearance. Another interesting tip is to assemble the left and right fenders to the nose insert off the frame first to help with aligning everything in the front.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?14763-Harley-s-818S/page5

[blomb11]

Turns out I had a stripped Tee fitting on the front brake line so I was not able to build pressure. I replaced the fitting and bled the system many times to get all of the bubbles out. This resolved my issue and I able to go kart around the block. Unfortunately I got too excited and did not get a video of it before I had to go pick up my kids. There a definitely a lot of things to sort out mostly tuning the engine, but dang this thing is wild already!

As mentioned I have been fitting up the body panels. I have the bumper, side sails, fenders, and nose insert all fitted up on the chassis. I have it to where all of the wheels are centered in the wheel wells so I think I can drill a couple holes to at least cleco them in place to do a final fit check before adding rivnuts. I had to cut a larger opening in the bumper because the 6 speed shifting rods when in 4th gear sticks almost past the bumper. This might be something to address later. I did install the nose insert to the two fenders on the floor and then dropped the whole assembly onto the chassis. This helped I think to get the nose insert to have the correct offset with the fenders because it seemed like it would have been a challenge to fit this on the chassis. However, I do have some very tight gaps where the fenders meet the forward part of the hood. My panels do seem like they have warped a little as they have sat for over a year. The passenger's side of the radiator support seemed to be ~0.5" farther forward than the left so I had to grind this down a bit to get the back of the right fender to line up with the right side sail. Neither of the front fenders land on the pedestals on the chassis so I am wondering if I should make some spacers to bridge the gaps and give the fender something to rest on. The fenders hit do hit the windshield frame if I try to make them sit on the rear pedestals and I think I have the windshield frame down as far as it will go.

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The remote reservoir on the AWIC was interfering with the rear hump lid. I had to move this out and down in order to make the panel fit. It now sits almost under the bypass line down and to the left of where it is shown in the picture. This panel is a PAIN to install so I think I might do as other have done and cut off the pieces right behind the doors and epoxy them to the side sails.

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Up next: Finalize the body panel fitment, rivnut all panels, and add fiberglass to enlarge the side sail scoops

[driveslikejehu]

Its good for me that you are a bit ahead of me, lol; you're solving problems I'm about to get into.
I tried the rev lockout technique you adopted, but couldn't get it to work without a lot of lever movement up front, so I just cable pull the lockout lever directly.
176159
Also, I had trouble bleeding the brakes until I used a pressure bleeder mounted on the m-cylinders. For some reason the Wilwood m-cyls needed this. might want to try if you still have bleed issues.

I'm guessing you are setup at the R ride height? I'm starting at the street ride height.

Looking good!

[driveslikejehu]

Are you going to install a windshield wiper? I'm going with FFR single. One of the next tasks...

[blomb11]

Its good for me that you are a bit ahead of me, lol; you're solving problems I'm about to get into.
I tried the rev lockout technique you adopted, but couldn't get it to work without a lot of lever movement up front, so I just cable pull the lockout lever directly.
176159
Also, I had trouble bleeding the brakes until I used a pressure bleeder mounted on the m-cylinders. For some reason the Wilwood m-cyls needed this. might want to try if you still have bleed issues.

I'm guessing you are setup at the R ride height? I'm starting at the street ride height.

Looking good!

Haha yes we are about in the same place so I have been looking at your interior details to make mine better. I used a power bleeder on my clutch and brake master cylinders. No way I would have gotten all of the air of the system or I would still be there pumping the brakes. I mis-threaded the bleeder once though and man did I make a mess!

I need to fine tune the rev lockout lever because I am not able to get the trans into reverse. I have a really hard time moving the shifting rod to 5th/6th gear and reverse. I am not sure if there is an issue with the syncros hopefully it I can drive it again I can get this settled and it will shift better. Or I need to adjust the K tuned shifter more to help this. So I do not have the reverse working quite yet unfortunately...


Are you going to install a windshield wiper? I'm going with FFR single. One of the next tasks...

I got the single windshield wiper from FFR so I will standby to see how well it goes from your install and learn from you :)

[blomb11]

Now I understand why others have said you stare, adjust, readjust, and get close enough for the body alignment. I have spend quite a few hours doing just that, but I have it when I want it...I think. I used 10-32 rivnuts to secure the side sails to the frame and to the rear bumper. I have the front bumper/fenders cleco in place and have been trying to align the rear deck lids. I did have to trim the front right bumper/radiator support to get the right fender and side sail to align. I removed the 10mm spacers on the front wheels which helped so adding some negative camber and raising the chassis 0.25-0.5" will help with wheel/fender rubbing.

176759

I think I am going to glass them together and cut the wings off to make it easier to install/remove. I think this would be easier because if I am going to work on something I will want it all removed rather than having to remove two pieces. I began installing the block off aluminum right behind the roll bar and what I thought would determine where the rear deck sits. I think this is where the S manual and the R build will begin to diverge further. I noticed after clecoing the pieces in place and reviewing the manual the R roll bar interferes with this piece. So pictured it is too far back so I removed the legs on the ends which helped, but it is still ~1in behind the 2 fiberglass humps on the rear deck. Does the rear deck or humps fasten to this sheetmetal piece? This is something missing from the manual. It seems like it would be a good way to hold the front of the rear deck down.

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I enlarged the side sail scoops by 1.5" and glassed the top and bottom. I need to sand them flat and add some more resin to fill some air pockets. This was my first fiberglass work so I have lots to learn! I definitely took a short cut by wrapping cardboard with duct tape for the top to make the layup surface and just duct tape on the bottom. I think I should have either tried adding enough resin at the beginning to make the flush surface and then start laying down cut fiberglass sheets. It is definitely strong but not super pretty. Next I will have to install the side scoops I got from Kurt818.

176762

I want to finish locating all of the panel with rivnuts and quick latches then move on to installing the lights and the rest of the wheel well/splash guards.

[Dave 53]

The remote reservoir on the AWIC was interfering with the rear hump lid. I had to move this out and down in order to make the panel fit. It now sits almost under the bypass line down and to the left of where it is shown in the picture. This panel is a PAIN to install so I think I might do as other have done and cut off the pieces right behind the doors and epoxy them to the side sails.

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I had pretty much the same AWIC reservoir / fill plumbing as you. I would occasionally open the cap to check the water level - always full, yet I had a leak. I have a theory on the physics of it, but if there is a leak, I think the air pocket void in the intercooler get's greater instead of presenting as a low water level at the cap. As such, I just eliminated the reservoir all together and installed an easier to operate petcock. To check or add water, I open the petcock and use a spray bottle to squirt water into the intercooler until it can't take any more. That and check the radiator level with the pump running.176770176773

[Hobby Racer]

I think I am going to glass them together and cut the wings off to make it easier to install/remove. I think this would be easier because if I am going to work on something I will want it all removed rather than having to remove two pieces.


Do that, you won't regret it!



I began installing the block off aluminum right behind the roll bar and what I thought would determine where the rear deck sits. I think this is where the S manual and the R build will begin to diverge further. I noticed after clecoing the pieces in place and reviewing the manual the R roll bar interferes with this piece. So pictured it is too far back so I removed the legs on the ends which helped, but it is still ~1in behind the 2 fiberglass humps on the rear deck. Does the rear deck or humps fasten to this sheetmetal piece? This is something missing from the manual. It seems like it would be a good way to hold the front of the rear deck down.


Strengthen the humps section first by riveting the matching hump section of aluminum in place. Here is a pic from the back side and front side.

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I secured my joined decklids with 4 hood pins, the two front ones were added and are not part of the normal FFR build. Ignore the strange looking thing under the decklid, its my front hood upside down.

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[blomb11]

Thanks! This make is a much better that adapting to the S manual. I was planning to use quick latches and adding some so good to know. Another note to write down and follow by you!

[blomb11]

Where should the front edge of the hood line up? Should it be down on the nose insert inline with the fenders? Or does it sit a littler higher up? My hood doesn’t quite fit so I might have to take the front corner edges down in order to get to to sit in between the fenders.

177091

[lance corsi]

Brandon, it looks like your fenders are too close together. The leading edge of the hood should be flush with the fenders on both sides. The grill insert should sit proud of the hood/fender line by about 5/8-3/4”. On mine, the grill insert was too wide, making it impossible to reduce my hood/fender gaps. I ultimately cut 1/2” out of the center of my grill insert to remedy this.

[STiPWRD]

You'll also probably want to trim down the edges of the hood so it sits lower and more flush with the fenders, that's what I had to do with my hood. I had to trim the edges of just about all my fiberglass panels to improve the fit. When they cut them out of the molds at FFR, I think they err on the side of "extra material".

[FFRWRX]

You'll also probably want to trim down the edges of the hood so it sits lower and more flush with the fenders, that's what I had to do with my hood. I had to trim the edges of just about all my fiberglass panels to improve the fit. When they cut them out of the molds at FFR, I think they err on the side of "extra material".

I had to do the same thing on one side. The lip (the part of the fibreglass that runs "down" at a right angle from the hood itself) was too long and contacted the fender with the hood too high up. No amount of adjusting can fix that without cutting some of the lip off. Not a huge deal to do, as it is a part that doesn't show when done. But, at the same time I moved part of that lip inwards to get a more consistent gap with the fender. The hood was basically a bit too wide at the front. I built up the fibreglass on the inside of the lip (to make it a lot thicker) then sanded it thinner from the outside.

[blomb11]

Okay thanks for confirming. It also seems like the draft angle on the hood is not the same as the fenders. I will have to do the same approach as you to make it fit.

Since I am running wider wheels in the rear I think I will have to do the opposite to the rear deck lids. I have the side sails pulled out slightly to cover the tires which leaves are large gap between the side sails and the rear deck lids. I will have to build one side up to take out this gap.

[blomb11]

It has been a busy couple months with work, the holidays, buying a new home, and selling our current home. However, I have still been able to get time in the garage to make progress on the body work.

This was my first major fiberglass work so I definitely learned a lot. I decided to follow Hobby Racer and others to join the 2 rear decks. This also led me to cutting off and bonding the winglets to the side sails. It took me a little bit to figure out where I wanted the final pieces to live to try and get decent gaps. I first cut off the lips and sanded them flat to try to give a good joining surface. I also sanded about 3" above the joining line to give some good surface area to lay the fiberglass to. I laid 3 layers of fiberglass on the inside, filled the gaps on the top with an epoxy slurry, and then laid 2 layers of fiberglass on top. It seems pretty sturdy now whereas when it was only the bottom layers it felt weak.

178485 178486 178487

Since I have the side sails pulled outward quite a bit to fit the larger rear wheels this cause a huge gap. So I decided to build this area up to bring the gap down to 0.125". This is also when I bonded the winglets to the side sails. Note to anyone wanting to do this: mix your slurry thicker and just put down enough on the bottom to get the location/angle correct before you pour resin to fill the gap. This way it will seal the bottom edge and hold it in the correct place. If not like me you will see if seep through and run down the inside of the side sail :rolleyes: oops! I will have some cleaning to do on the side of the side sails. However, I am really impressed with using 0.125" wax and filling in the gaps and build up material. I could have mixed my slurry thicker and it would have helped keep things in place and gel faster. Now I need to spread some bondo like slurry over it to get a smooth surface that matches the side sails.

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As FFRWRX recommended I added some epoxy resin to the inside of the hood at the nose. I then sanded down the side flanges, where are drafted to begin with, to be more perpendicular which allowed the hood to sit better between the front fenders and nose insert. I noticed the hood sits proud above the fenders by ~0.25" so I think I may sand this down to make the hood more flush to the fenders. I noticed this on the rear deck lids too so might do the same there. My gaps and body lines won't be perfect but they sit pretty high to just leave them as is.

178496

Next up is hood and rear deck quick latch pins, cut down and install doors, cut out all of the air openings, seal off radiator, and side scoop install....

[J R Jones]

Joining panels, I use 2" glass cloth tape that I buy in 50' rolls. Tape edges are woven so no loose fibers. I grind out the upper surfaces before application lest the tape be sanded off during leveling and finishing.
The underside is reinforced with matt and cloth, and box sections to give the part beam strength. This was joining two hatches and a six inch center hinge support panel.
jim

178498

178499

[FFRWRX]

An aside, but referring to J R Jones. Funny, when I built my Dino replica I did the opposite. I cut what was originally one large trunk/engine panel into 2 pieces to be more like the original; one for engine access and one for the trunk.

178538

[J R Jones]

An aside, but referring to J R Jones. Funny, when I built my Dino replica I did the opposite. I cut what was originally one large trunk/engine panel into 2 pieces to be more like the original; one for engine access and one for the trunk.

178538

Rick,
My guess is that is a Fiero chassis, providing double hatch mechanicals? Who made the body? SBC is a tight fit.
My body is an eighties(?) Karma in hand laid cloth for a VW rear flat four. I found it in GA. and sold off the VW parts. Since the VW pan lacks structure, this body has quite a bit of it.
I have revised the styling that was not correct, and supplemented some Dino features that do not work as well as I want. I lean towards functional and serviceable. The theme will be a race car returned to the street, but no race graphics.
The body is on a 818 chassis I bought unfinished from owner #2. I have no regard for the Subaru powertrain and I will make an Acura 3.5 V6 fit. Kind of a Dino NSX.
jim

178541

[driveslikejehu]

As usual I enjoy your progress cuz your kit is like mine; a white frame R. I'm a few weeks behind you as I just started hanging the body panels on loosely to check what needs cutting/clearance, etc.
They really made of mess of the rear deck on the R, I think...
Have you thought of what to do about the little vestige of curved body line in front of the roll hoop? I'm thinking remove it and continue the door line back to the square tube? Or just leave it?
178588

[blomb11]

As usual I enjoy your progress cuz your kit is like mine; a white frame R. I'm a few weeks behind you as I just started hanging the body panels on loosely to check what needs cutting/clearance, etc.
They really made of mess of the rear deck on the R, I think...
Have you thought of what to do about the little vestige of curved body line in front of the roll hoop? I'm thinking remove it and continue the door line back to the square tube? Or just leave it?
178588

We are learning things from each other's progress...now you got me concerned the wiper kit won't fit under my hood. So I need to look at this next. I am going to leave the piece on the winglet for now and re-evaluate later when I do the final body work to prep for wrapping the car. I am not sure about your hood and rear decks but mine seem to sit above the fender lines ~0.125-0.25". I am not sure if this is normal or if these parts should be sanded down to make it all sit flush.

[blomb11]

I got the hood pins installed last night and man it looks so much better with it installed! As mentioned the hood sits above the fenders a bit and I think FFRWRX mentioned he sanded his down to fit more flush. So I may do this too down the line, but I need to try installing the wiper to make sure it clears under the hood first.

178590

[driveslikejehu]

Yes, the flanges or returns or whatever they're called around the edges seem to be left large. That may be what this mostly incomprehensible placard is saying? "undersized gaps...?" It may be obvious to some, but not me...
178604

[blomb11]

Yes, the flanges or returns or whatever they're called around the edges seem to be left large. That may be what this mostly incomprehensible placard is saying? "undersized gaps...?" It may be obvious to some, but not me...
178604

Well I guess that makes sense...trim to fit. Much like the composite parts at my work are made :D.

[Dave 53]

Having had a little bit of experience with body panels flying off the car at speed due to inadequate securing pins (namely, me forgetting to secure them), I recall reading somewhere, maybe on this forum, about those push button panel securing pins. The hood will see a lot of lift and a very robust pin system is needed there, perhaps more robust than those. And the trailing edge of the hood next to the windshield moves around quite a bit testing the aft pins. Maybe they're okay if you also have a forward hood hinge.

178605I'm getting a lot of milage out of this picture having posted it a few times for various reasons. In it, you can clearly see the hood lifting at probably around 70 mph.

When I trimmed my hood, I used a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel - worked great. Seems like sanding would take forever.

Very little gap is needed between the hood and windshield with the mono wiper. I didn't need to trim anything to make it work, but I did bend the arm to fine tune.

[FFRWRX]

When I trimmed my hood, I used a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel - worked great. Seems like sanding would take forever.


I used a belt sander with a fairly coarse belt. Takes it down very quickly. Too quickly if you aren't careful or comfortable with a belt sander. Then a smaller random orbital one to smooth it. To remove more material then yes, I use a cutting tool (air body saw).

[blomb11]

Having had a little bit of experience with body panels flying off the car at speed due to inadequate securing pins (namely, me forgetting to secure them), I recall reading somewhere, maybe on this forum, about those push button panel securing pins. The hood will see a lot of lift and a very robust pin system is needed there, perhaps more robust than those. And the trailing edge of the hood next to the windshield moves around quite a bit testing the aft pins. Maybe they're okay if you also have a forward hood hinge.

178605I'm getting a lot of milage out of this picture having posted it a few times for various reasons. In it, you can clearly see the hood lifting at probably around 70 mph.

When I trimmed my hood, I used a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel - worked great. Seems like sanding would take forever.

Very little gap is needed between the hood and windshield with the mono wiper. I didn't need to trim anything to make it work, but I did bend the arm to fine tune.

I am using 0.5" hood pins not the smaller quik-latch ones so this will help. These are the same size ones that come with the kit. I am going to completely duct the radiator and seal things off so this will hopefully help with pressure under the hood, but I do see the rear of the hood might be an issue. Something I will have to watch until I get it up to speed.

[blomb11]

Anyone with a newer kit, do your door skins look the same? I have been planning for them to be closed off in the front and not sure why I never realized it sooner until now when I am trying to mount them. The manual shows for the R the front is secured to the side intrusion panels. I want to cut them down to increase the vent behind the front wheels. I am thinking I can close them off with some sheet metal, but annoying since they used to be complete.

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[RPGs818SNA]

The doors from my kit delivered in March of 2019 look the same in the front.

179270

[blomb11]

Thanks RPG! They must have made a change in 2018 and removed the front section. Looks like I will be making a block off plate so the air exits the sides and doesn’t build up at the back of the door skin.

[Jetfuel]

If I may suggest that you fabricate a plate to place over where the hinges for the door openings are in the body.
A major source of hot air from the engine bay specially when the fans are on.

Jet

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Anyone with a newer kit, do your door skins look the same?

I don't think the design of the door skins have ever changed. The internal frame changed to accommodate the glass for the coupe. Here is a picture of an early assembled door.

179321

[lance corsi]

Brandon the street cars receive an aluminum blockoff plate for that area. The manual gives you a good starting point to drill your bolt holes. The outer perimeter that contacts the door skin will get a push-on bulb seal.

[driveslikejehu]

My kit was delivered in late 2019 or early 2020. It has the R door ends as shown in the manual. I'm just starting to clearance them for the door hinge mount on the frame and the windshield. I thought I had it rough to remove so much since we are doing R's with windshields. Probably cutting away is easier than added a plate.
179337

[driveslikejehu]

BTW, I like idea of increasing the gap at the front of the door/fender area. To use this to extract air would mean not adding that sorta peanut shaped plate that closes off the fender.
What are you planning to do?

[blomb11]

My kit was delivered in late 2019 or early 2020. It has the R door ends as shown in the manual. I'm just starting to clearance them for the door hinge mount on the frame and the windshield. I thought I had it rough to remove so much since we are doing R's with windshields. Probably cutting away is easier than added a plate.
179337

Interesting so maybe I got S doors on accident. I have emailed FFR but at this point who knows if they will do anything about it. I was planning to follow Hobby's post #167 since FFR does not make nor sell the door inserts anymore.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?23199-John-s-EZ36R-H6-818R-Build/page5

So now I will have to see what FFR says otherwise I will install the aluminum block off plates, cut down the doors, and add opening(s) in the block off plates to create the desired air venting.

[driveslikejehu]

I went to Hobby's page you mentioned... I looks like the door hinge/windshield mounting structure on his is different from mine. Maybe he modified it? Or am I just seeing a different angle...
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[Hobby Racer]

I went to Hobby's page you mentioned... I looks like the door hinge/windshield mounting structure on his is different from mine. Maybe he modified it? Or am I just seeing a different angle...


I did cut off the section needed to mount the wind shield tabs since I use the R winds screen and not the S wind shield. It looks like you can still cut some / most of the mount off that might be interfering with moving the door in. Trimming back the doors is a much neater and efficient design than the FFR cut out method for venting high pressure air out of the wheel wells.

[driveslikejehu]

Thanks for that clarification. I, and I think Brandon, am/are planning to keep the windshield mount so we can get them street legal. Just means a bit more cutting the door for clearance.

[Hobby Racer]

It looks like you can easily cut out this section marked in red to aid in clearance. That is the part that is for the door hinge.

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[blomb11]

FFR finally responded telling me they sent me the wrong door skins and replacements are on the way before I could stop the shipment. So guess now I will have an extra set if I want to redo my work or one breaks. While I was waiting for their response I was able to bond in the sheet metal plate that normal goes over the front of the door frame. I then cut the doors down 2” tapering it to the back to tip it then in. The new gaps behind the front fenders at the front of the doors is about 3.5”.

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The manual has very little information on how the front inner fender well aluminum panels attach to the frame. I saw a couple pictures from mcamera’s thread, but if anyone has some tips or additional pictures to reference that would be awesome ;). Given my cut down doors I am thinking about using the front rear liner and then cutting a hole in it to match the new in setting doors for ducting.

[driveslikejehu]

...now you got me concerned the wiper kit won't fit under my hood. So I need to look at this next..

Maybe you got to this already... I found the hood fits fine over the mono wiper with a little bending of the arm. The kit comes with a hood support panel. My cut down hood sits just right on it with a 1/4" block on those fender mounts by the windshield

[blomb11]

Maybe you got to this already... I found the hood fits fine over the mono wiper with a little bending of the arm. The kit comes with a hood support panel. My cut down hood sits just right on it with a 1/4" block on those fender mounts by the windshield

I have not installed the mono wiper kit yet, but your comments settled my concerns a bit. I installed the rear hood support, about 1/4-1/2 higher on the windshield surround so this should help too. I am curious to know how you trimmed your hood since I will need to do the same. I have a dremel, angle grinder, and hack saw like you mentioned I can use. Your picture of the fitment looks good.

[driveslikejehu]

I'll post a pic, hopefully by tomorrow, when I cut down the eng cover or something. Cutting is the way to go I think, over sanding it down. Even with really good dust collection; GRP dust is nasty.

[blomb11]

I'll post a pic, hopefully by tomorrow, when I cut down the eng cover or something. Cutting is the way to go I think, over sanding it down. Even with really good dust collection; GRP dust is nasty.

Thanks! I am well aware of the dust haha and it makes a mess for sure! I have been wearing a mask, goggles, and am outside, but I probably should have a respirator.

[Dave 53]

I trimmed my hood 2 years ago, so I don't remember exactly what I did, but it looks like I measured the thickness on the fender then transferred those measurements to the hood, scored a line on the hood and trimmed with a Dremel tool cutting blade.
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Mounting the fender near the windshield, I used a 3/4" block of plastic from Tap Plastics. I don't recall the name of the material, but it's like plastic cutting board. Softish, not hard and brittle. I drilled and taped holes into it for the bolts. The 3/4" is needed for alignment with the doors. I recall I did it this way for ease of installation after unsuccessfully struggling to get good alignment using a single bolt. It was easy to mount the block to the chassis, then align the fender to the door and windshield, mark the spot to tap holes into the block for the fender bolts. 180323

[Dave 53]

I trimmed my hood 2 years ago, so I don't remember exactly what I did, but it looks like I measured the thickness on the fender then transferred those measurements to the hood, scored a line on the hood and trimmed with a Dremel tool cutting blade.
180308

Mounting the fender near the windshield, I used a 3/4" block of plastic from Tap Plastics. I don't recall the name of the material, but it's like plastic cutting board. Softish, not hard and brittle. I drilled and taped holes into it for the bolts. The 3/4" is needed for alignment with the doors. I recall I did it this way for ease of installation after unsuccessfully struggling to get good alignment using a single bolt. It was easy to mount the block to the chassis, then align the fender to the door and windshield, mark the spot to tap holes into the block for the fender bolts. Make a mistake, cut a new block vs filling a misaligned hole drilled into the fender. 180323

Another spot I used that plastic material: There is a chassis bracket near the headlights. Does the picture make sense? It's "holding up" the fender to the side of and near the top of the headlight bucket. Anything less to distribute the load and you'll get a spider crack in the gel coat (ask me how I know).180328

[blomb11]

Thanks Dave this is super helpful. I was just looking at those mounts behind the headlights and wondering how I had such large gaps. I will take note and maybe use a similar plastic filler material to take up the gaps. This would definitely help distribute the load and make for a better fit.

[blomb11]

We moved over the weekend so I had to tow the car to its new garage. I don’t have a trailer so I rented one from U-Haul. I know these cars are low but dang it was a challenge to get it loaded. I have to removed the front bumper/fenders, front fender supports, and the hood. Plus o had to jack up the rear of my truck to keep the car from high siding on the trailer ramps. I was able to get it there which was great so now I need to figure out a better or quicker way to load the car onto a U-Haul trailer. I don’t have the budget or space to buy one so I am stuck with using a U-Haul trailer. I am going to get it tuned in a couple months so I am going to have to make my own race ramps and come up with a front end quick release strategy.

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I need to figure out how to adjust the K tuned shifter. If anyone has any suggestions that would be greatly appreciated. The throw is really tight. I need to adjust the reverse lockout so hopefully it will allow it to go in reverse….

[driveslikejehu]

I used a U-Haul for my Cayman a few times before I got my trailer. I made some poor-man's race ramps with 2x8's to get the ramps better inline. And yeah, jack up the front with the trailer jack or truck wheels on blocks. Also, I put 2x? in the front wheel area so the front will clear the wheel stop in the trailer. I actually got most of the ideas from a guy on Youtube loading a vette or something. Might help.

[Dave 53]

Ramps are an issue everywhere. Trailers, tow trucks, alignment racks, driveways... Just yesterday my car was on an alignment rack at a track car shop with a C8, McLaren and 2 Porsche's in the garage. They use old clanky wooden boards to flatten the ramp out.

My U Haul had front wheel stops at the front of the trailer that were too tall and they were hitting my body work preventing me from rolling the car all the way forward. They were bolted on, so I just unbolted them. Maybe you can see that they are missing in this picture. 181193

[Hobby Racer]

I dream of one of these trailers. No ramps, easy loading!

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Futura Trailers (https://www.futuratrailers.com/?locale=us)

[blomb11]

I dream of one of these trailers. No ramps, easy loading!

181199

Futura Trailers (https://www.futuratrailers.com/?locale=us)

Haha I made the same comment to my brother-in-law saying we just need to buy a Futura trailer that drops to the ground. Such a cool trailer.

[cob427sc]

I used to own a 22' Texas rollback aluminum trailer which required no ramps to load even a very low car. Dumb decision when I sold that one!

[blomb11]

Well it sure has been a busy couple months and trying to keep working on the car at the same time. Got all settled in the new home, epoxied the garage floors, and got the garage all organized to be able to work on the car. Then also working on some different renovations around the house taking away from having free time to work on the car.

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I have been working on the interior and installing the head lights. I found out at the beginning of April EcuTek is following Cobb and will be removing the ability to disable DTC codes in their RaceROM software. So I have been scrambling to get a tuning appointment at my local tuner and getting the car ready to be tuned. I was able to clean up the wiring (a little not as good as others) under the dash and the center console. I had to make some changes to the aluminum center console panels to work with the K-tuned shifter. I got the dash fitted and installed the cluster and gauges. However, I fit the dash before I installed the gauge cluster which I learned is a mistake since the cluster brackets are now in the way and do not let it sit as far in. I will need to pull it back out and make some adjustments to get it to its final position. I was tried to think about serviceability so I made all of the wiring with quick disconnect connectors. However, it is still kind of a pain to remove and will only get harder with the windshield installed. With the interior temporarily buttoned up I was able to weld on the Vibrant TPV muffler. I will add a support to the muffler when I build the wing structure. I need to build some wooden race ramps to help with loading the car on the trailer and then one final radiator/AWIC fluids check to make sure all of the bubbles are out before some dyno pulls.

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My tuning appointment is tomorrow so I swapped over to the 1080X injectors and added a second fuel pressure sensor for the flex fuel kit. However, not with additional challenges thrown in because on Friday someone hit my truck parked on the street and drove off. Luckily no one was hurt, the guy ditched the mini cooper one street over, and ran into the hiking trails. Thankfully to some good neighbors I got all of the details, pictures, and filed a police report. The guy ended up confessing to the hit and run so now I am waiting for his insurance info. The truck is still drivable and it missed the trailer hit so I am still able to make my tuning appointment tomorrow and then will get the truck fixed after.

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[driveslikejehu]

Glad to see you posting, but bumming about your truck. Always a worry of mine when having to park on the street.
Hope is goes well with the tuner...

[blomb11]

I got my race ramps built yesterday and then pushed the car out to get it up to temp and burp the cooling system one more time before the dyno tune. I got the car up to temp and all of the bubbles out of the cooling system, but then noticed I was leaking oil and the oil pressure was dropping. I had noticed a wet surface under the passenger valve cover a few months back so I was worried it was due to this. Last night I pulled the valve cover and sure enough the gasket had separate up by the intake cam. I was worried it was also coming out of the front through the cam gear, but I pulled the front cover and did not see any oil in there or on the belt. So I think it is safe to say the leak is just from the torn gasket. New EJ207 JDM gaskets ordered.

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My tuner called me yesterday and said reverse is required to get the car off the dyno. So between the oil leak and not having functional reverse my tuning appointment is delayed. I have until 5/10 to get it to the tuner to still be able to get an EcuTek tune. I have been putting off trying to figure out why it does not reverse. I have been hoping it was just the reverse lockout not being in the right position because pulling the trans to open the case would not be ideal. I was hoping it was just the syncros not being meshed since I have not been able to get it up past 30-40 mph in the neighborhood. It is very difficult to get the shifter/linkage into 5th, 6th, or reverse. I took off the shift linkage and the reverse lockout bracket to see what the issue is. I am able to shift the selecting rod into gears 1-6 pretty easily and confirmed able to move the wheels forward in 5th/6th. I am able to feel when the reverse lockout is engage or open and can then put the selector into reverse. However, when in reverse I am not able to move the wheels in either direction. I dropped the wheels on the ground and it just rocks forward/backward a few inches when in reverse. Seems like maybe something with the reverse selector or gears are not aligned. Stupid question, but I did not engage the clutch during any of my testing so would this making a difference?

Sorry for the rotated image. I might try adding a hole higher up on the bar I welded to the selector bracket. Maybe this longer lever arm will help make it easier to get it into 5th/6th.

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[driveslikejehu]

Brandon, you may already have something like this; I put it together to note how much rotation is needed for reverse lock out
183542

Years ago I had something similar. It turned out I had left out a little detent pin/follower and the shafts moving the dogs back and forth could lock up. Hope it's not something like that and you have to go back in.

[blomb11]

This was a smart thing to do wish I would have thought of this. Instead I just took the OEM bracket off to make my new one and tried to feel the required adjustment range. I think I know the correct spot for the reverse lock out to be able to shift it into reverse which does require adjustment to my bracket. However, the bigger issue is when it is in reverse the gears are locked up. Probably gonna have to pull the trans, open it up, and check to see what is causing the lock up.

[blomb11]

I realized when I rebuilt the EJ207 I ordered a gasket kit from Flat Irons Tining for an EJ205 because on NASIOC I read the EJ207 was very similar for parts as the EJ205. The valve cover gaskets are not because the EJ207 has AVCS. This was my mistake. I remember the gaskets not fitting well when I was putting the engine back together and this should have been my red flag. The gasket had to be stretched to fit the recessed area where the AVCS is and looking three posts up you can see in the picture of the failed gasket this stretching is the smoking gun. I replaced both valve cover gaskets and stopped the oil leak.

I adjusted the reverse lockout bracket to make sure it had the proper clearance and of course opened the lockout so it will go into reverse. I finally noticed why I struggled with shifting into 5th, 6th, and reverse. I noticed when trying to shift into these gears the side to side cable was raising the fore/aft cable hitting the VCP bracket. So I took out the Dremel and noticed the bracket allowing for clearance. I can now shift into these gears easier. Once I had these adjustments made I wanted to check reverse again. My brother in law pointed out sometimes it takes double clutching to get the trans actually into reverse. I remember this being an issue on my previous WRX and STI but for some reason it didn’t click before. I jacked up the rear end, double maybe even triple clutched, and finally the rear wheels spun in reverse. Yesterday I was able to back the car out of the garage and down the driveway with a quick sling around the block :D!

Dyno tuning appointment rescheduled for 5/11.

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