Brandon's 818R Build

[blomb11]

The road bumps continue. I was able to drop the car off at the tuning shop last Thursday after sorting through some final hurtles. The wooden race ramps I built worked like a charm and I was able to load/unload the car on the U-Haul trailer by myself. It took a couples times, but I now have my system down. I am not used to this McCloud Racing clutch :D may have spun the tires a few times getting it on the trailer the first time. I told the tuner to make the flex fuel kit to be powered off the rear O2 sensor, but unfortunately I forgot I wired in the Innovate wideband O2 sensor to the rear O2 connector thus removing it. So when I dropped the car off Thursday they needed to rebuild the module before it could be dyno tuned so worse case I had to leave the car and it would be all done by Tuesday. Thankfully they were able to keep the car inside on the dyno so it was cover since I did not provide the rear hatch and obviously there is no roof. After no update on Friday and nothing as of Monday morning I call to find out the tuner tore his ACL and would not be able to dyno my car because of the roll cage. So yesterday I went back to tow the car home, module was not complete, the tuner did not even have stock of the EcuTek dongle, and I am right where I started last week. Kind of frustrating and a waste of $120 in U-haul trailers but at least I got practice loading and unloading the car. So now I will revert to e-tuning the car which will actually save me $800 over the dyno tune so I guess that is a plus.

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But man was it cool to look at see this view and especially seeing the car in the rearview mirror driving down the road. Hopefully soon it will be this same view to the track for a first shakedown. It is so hard not to mash the pedal driving the car around :D.

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[Dave 53]

Seems like the tuner could stand next to the car while someone else started / stopped it and reved it to certain RPM under his direction.

Are you doing a MAF or a Speed Density tune? On my OEM ECU, I found the MAF tune was fine on cool track days, but it struggled on hot days. I could do a couple of laps until everything got hot, then it would run like ****. I also once had a long drive home from Willow Springs with a bad MAF sensor that was no fun. Switching to a Speed Density tune solved it. All it required was adding an air temp sensor on the intercooler plus optionally replumbing the blow off to vent to atmosphere.

[blomb11]

Seems like the tuner could stand next to the car while someone else started / stopped it and reved it to certain RPM under his direction.

Are you doing a MAF or a Speed Density tune? On my OEM ECU, I found the MAF tune was fine on cool track days, but it struggled on hot days. I could do a couple of laps until everything got hot, then it would run like ****. I also once had a long drive home from Willow Springs with a bad MAF sensor that was no fun. Switching to a Speed Density tune solved it. All it required was adding an air temp sensor on the intercooler plus optionally replumbing the blow off to vent to atmosphere.

Yea I agree it could be worked out somehow, but this is just what they told me. Plus this way I can do the datalogging and the pulls myself in case something goes haywire. It will be a MAF tune for now. I have been learning about speed density tunes recently so I will have to see how this goes and see if the shop offers a speed density tune using their flex fuel module. I do remember reading about your struggles and will keep it in mind.

[Rob T]

I am also a happy Speed Density "customer". I used to have have MAF and the shop that rebuilt my engine suggested I switch it. Another tuner in a different state reviewed that SD tune and said he couldn't make it any better.

[blomb11]

I am using the OEM VF37 turbo still so I think I will be okay for now starting with MAF. If I switch to a bigger turbo down the road I will definitely consider switching to a speed density tune. On my '18 STI running e85 with supporting mods I had a MAF tune through Delicious Tuning as well and had no issues for about 10k miles, SoCAL autocross, and SoCAL track days. I appreciate the feedback :D always good food for thought to make sure I am not missing anything.

[blomb11]

Still slowly chipping away at things when I get the time. Projects around the new house are almost done to really get back to working on the car more. I have been working on the front radiator ducting to close it off. I got all of the provided front panels around the nose added and then I also added some block off panels since I am not running the front sway bar. The AWIC heat exchanger adds for some complexity in sealing things off. I have my cardboard templates drawn up just need to cut them out of aluminum and install them.

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I have been working with Delicious Tuning as well to complete the flex fuel tune for the car. This has taken quite some time to get time on their busy schedule that works with mine. I have been logging data and cruising around the neighborhood and one short city street. Man it’s hard not to mash the pedal, but I learned quickly not to when the dash flew up in my face since I don’t have the windshield glass installed yet….oops :o

Since I was getting the car up to temp and driving it around I roughed out the vents in the hood. I am thinking about extending them back to the frame or at least a couple inches. My rear duct is going to attach to the frame so it makes sense to have a larger opening to help exit the air from the radiator and fans.

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It has been helpful to not have the headlights installed yet when installing and removing the front fenders. It has also given nice room to reach in there when fitting my ducting panels. I am going to have to find a new technique once they are installed.

[blomb11]

I finished ducting the radiator. I had to make a few extra panels around the sides to close it off to the fenders. Because of the AWIC heat exchanger brackets it made it a bit challenging to close off the sides. It is not perfectly sealed but it might do the trick. I may go back and add tape if needed to make it air tight if needed. I am going to add another piece of aluminum to close off under the car between the radiator support and the frame.

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I am trying to finish the car moving front to rear. I cleaned up the hood cutouts and trimmed the hood flange down by 0.25”. Using the multi tool for this made it cut easy to cut and control the line. I mocked up the headlight lenses. I have already glasses in studs on the back side. I am going to tape off the inside of the lenses, paint the borders black, and then RTV them in place. I have been using the headlight holes as a way to remove and install the front clip so not sure how I will do this when the headlights are actually installed.

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[driveslikejehu]

Will the only air exit be the two hood openings? I was concerned that they are too small and poorly positioned (straight up from the radiator). I see you're thinking of this and plan to enlarge them. I added a couple of ducts to each side after calculating the inlet area. Not saying your layout isn't sufficient, just curious.
Also, Since I have the STi engine, etc I wanted more air inlet. It was pretty easy to bend the radiator floor down to pick up that lower opening. I made a couple of filler pieces for the sides.
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And yeah, I left the final headlight mounting to nearly last to keep that access.

[blomb11]

All of the air is supposed to go out of the hood cutouts. I read somewhere your inlet area should match your outlet area so I need to check the numbers again. I agree though it does seem like the hood outlets need to be opened up a little more. I do like how you lowered the the front of your bottom floor of your duct…smart. I was thinking about opening the 3 pre-cut slots too.

[Rob T]

A couple of other ideas....1) the slots on the bottom pan are opened on my car - it came that way from Chad. I guess it adds a bit more flow. 2) Now would be a good time to figure out how to protect the radiator. Mine got "shelled" from rocks and track rubber until I installed a 1/2" thick nomex honeycomb sheet right on the front of the radiator. It's typically used for dirt track cars, but works great here. It has a lot of open area and is very strong.

As for the airflow past the radiator, a lot comes out of the vents, but also leaks into the wheel area and between the windscreen (no windshield for me) and the hood. My radiator has two fans. One is on a thermostat and the other is on a switch. This lets you run the fan in the pits before and after sessions to keep the AWIC cool....

[driveslikejehu]

I started a thread on radiator opening in the General section: I determined the 2 hood vents total to about 92 sqin. The upper grill opening is about 79 sqin. Adding the lower grill open about evens them out.
I also added ducts to exhaust air to the wheel well and then out the fender/door slot.
I used 1/4" hardware cloth (metal screen) in the grill openings.
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[blomb11]

A couple of other ideas....1) the slots on the bottom pan are opened on my car - it came that way from Chad. I guess it adds a bit more flow. 2) Now would be a good time to figure out how to protect the radiator. Mine got "shelled" from rocks and track rubber until I installed a 1/2" thick nomex honeycomb sheet right on the front of the radiator. It's typically used for dirt track cars, but works great here. It has a lot of open area and is very strong.

As for the airflow past the radiator, a lot comes out of the vents, but also leaks into the wheel area and between the windscreen (no windshield for me) and the hood. My radiator has two fans. One is on a thermostat and the other is on a switch. This lets you run the fan in the pits before and after sessions to keep the AWIC cool....

Great point and I do have plans to add mesh to all openings down the road. I found this stuff on Amazon I am probably going to try.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08T8HBHNL/?coliid=I1UDOBISM8FXRN&colid=VB80S9LI45R4&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

[Sgt.Gator]

Keep in mind if you ever intend to actually race the car in a sanctioned event there are rules on the size of the screen mesh. Often the minimum size is 1/2" squares. But since it's a tube frame race car which often puts us in the unlimited class the screen mesh size doesn't apply. I use cheap Home Depot screen in the STI and BRZ. I need to add it to the 818R. The HD galvanized screen doesn't hold paint very well but works fine. I'll add pics of my radiator ducting thread mentioned above. My coolant temps don't hit even 200 degrees after a hour of full race conditions.

[Rob T]

Because the honeycomb material I was talking about has some structure (about 1/2" thick), I mounted it on the front of the AWIC radiator and used some aluminum channel to hold it. Who knows, it might even "straighten" the airflow to the radiator a bit.....

[blomb11]

I wired up my headlights and replaced the low/high bulbs with cheap LED ones I found on Amazon. I wired the 3 LED accent lights to come on with the DRL and also the parking lights. The blinkers did not work, but then I remembered I never got a hazard switch. So hopefully once I receive it and plug it in they should work too.

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I shouldn’t be surprised there is basically nothing on wiring the tail/reverse lights. The only sentence in the manual doesn’t cover the parts I got in my kit. Does any have a schematic on how to wire these lights and use the LED flasher diode? Or could explain it to me please? I see the tail lights are 3 wire (red, brown, and white) so does it matter which I use to connect the brake vs parking light? And the reverse lights are 3 pins so maybe turn signal, reverse, and ground? I remember reading a post about these reverse light contacts so I will have to see if I can find it again.

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[RPGs818SNA]

Hey Brandon,

I rewrote the manual pages regarding the tail lights, but FFR doesn't seem interested in updating the manual. Here are the basics:

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This shows how to wire the tail lights using 06 wire colors. Yours may vary.
Wire the supplied tan brake/parking socket as follows:
Connector black ground to white socket ground
Connector brake wire (shown as WB) to the red socket wire
Connector parking wire (Shown as R) to the brown wire

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Crimp a connector onto your backup, turn signal, and ground wires. The black ground wire goes into the middle position. The backup and turn signal wires can go into either of the outer positions. Once the bulb is installed, if the colors are wrong, remove the bulb and reinstall it in the other direction.

If you'd like the entire 8 page writeup, PM me your email address and I'll send it.

RPG

[blomb11]

Thanks! Yes I would love to read your write up (brandonblom11@gmail.com). I am probably over complicating and over thinking it per usual. My donor is an 07 so it should be pretty much the same.

[RPGs818SNA]

PDF sent. I hope it helps.
RPG

[blomb11]

Thanks RPGs818SNA for the write up. I got pretty much all of the lights working now. However, when I turn on the headlights the tail lights do not come on so I am not sure what is going on there. Also when I press the hazard switch nothing happens which is weird since the turn signals work. I will have to look into this further.

I am also working on the rear fender liners but the manual does not offer much here other than to look at their picture. It seems like they have the shock cutout just above the shock collar but it seems like there may be a gap at the bottom where it meets the side sail and the bumper. Does anyone have any pictures of their install or suggestions? Kinda tricky because it can't be too low to avoid rubbing the tires.

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[lpmagruder]

Mine ended up needing some significant trimming to clear the shock, upper lateral link, and upper trailing link. The shock cutout didn't end up matching the shock location with it lined up where I liked it on the side sail and bumper. Mine fits just about like yours does. I forced a bit of a twist in it on the forward side to keep it tucked under the fiberglass.

Also, all the little tabs that are supposed to be used for rivets broke. I ended up bending some stainless brackets into little L brackets with a rivet on one side and a 10-24 riv nut on the other end, to make the panels easily removable.

[Bicyclops]

The bulb seal is going to change how everything fits. I put it on and then started clamping and massaging it into place. I had to pull my engine out (blew up on the dyno :-( ) and I replaced the rivets holding to the rear bumper with 8-32 button head screws. I had to cut off the tab that rivets to the shock crossbrace at the top. I remade it with a longer piece of bent steel through bolted to the brace and screwed to the fender liner. If I were in your shoes, I'd do that now. I don't think I had to trim the liners, but I did make some slots for brake line clearance. I wrapped the brake hoses with a bunch of silicone tape and shoved them up in the slots and they seem happy.

Ed

[driveslikejehu]

Here's a few pics of my tubs.. I trimmed the lower f-glass front and back to make the fit cleaner. I added spacers as needed cuz fenders were a little wide due to clearance/fit etc.
Let me know if you want more pics.
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[blomb11]

This is super helpful thanks to all! Funny how one mined your brains becomes sometimes...I started moving the brake lines instead of thinking to cut the liner instead to make room. The initial fit with the bent pieces on the end of the liner was throwing me for a loop, but per usual trim to fit :p

I will add the bulb now and recheck the fitment. I am definitely planning to make this assembly removable because it will be nicer to have the extra room for maintenance.

[blomb11]

I have been reviewing the 06-07 wiring diagrams but I can't see how the brake lights are connected to the headlights. Can anyone explain how the tail lights are connected to the headlights? Does it connect to the parking brake switch or something else? As mentioned I have the headlights working but the tail lights only come on when the brake pedal is pressed.

[RPGs818SNA]

Well, it's complicated. Since you can read the schematics, I'll just give you a roadmap. Here goes:

Parking switch above steering wheel works with ignition turned off or on. Check this first.
PSUP02 Battery + to A PSUP03
PSUP03 A to Fuse 7 to L PSUP04
PSUP04 L to FB12 to ILMES01
ILMES01 FB12 to PK SW ON to PK SW COM to FB3 Parking switch ON
PSUP04 FB3 to Fuse 5 to FB6 and FB7
ILMES03 FB6 to front parking lights to ground
ILMES03 FB7 to rear parking lights to ground

If the parking switch over the steering wheel works front and back, move on to the stalk switch.
Tail lights that come on with headlight switch, power path
PSUP02 Battery + to A PSUP03
PSUP03 A to Fuse 7 to L PSUP04
PSUP04 L to Tail relay to FB10 Relay coil must be on. See control path below.
ILMES01 FB10 to PK SW OFF to PK SW COM to FB3 Parking switch OFF
PSUP04 FB3 to Fuse 5 to FB6 and FB7
ILMES03 FB6 to front parking lights to ground
ILMES03 FB7 to rear parking lights to ground

Here's the relay control path:
Tail lights that come on with headlight switch, Relay control path
PSUP02 Battery + to Fuse SBF1 to B PSUP03
PSUP03 B to Fuse SBF4 to E PSUP 5
PSUP 5 E to IGN SW to M PSUP4 if ignition is on or start
PSUP4 M to tail relay coil to FB11
ILMES1 FB11 to Light Switch to ground if stalk switch in park or headlights

It's a long and winding path, but it should get you home. Hope it's something obvious and easy to fix.

Best of luck,
RPG

[Dave 53]

Thanks RPGs818SNA for the write up. I got pretty much all of the lights working now. However, when I turn on the headlights the tail lights do not come on so I am not sure what is going on there. Also when I press the hazard switch nothing happens which is weird since the turn signals work. I will have to look into this further.

I am also working on the rear fender liners but the manual does not offer much here other than to look at their picture. It seems like they have the shock cutout just above the shock collar but it seems like there may be a gap at the bottom where it meets the side sail and the bumper. Does anyone have any pictures of their install or suggestions? Kinda tricky because it can't be too low to avoid rubbing the tires.

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Looks like you have the horizontal wrap around piece inside out and backwards. In other words, you have the right piece on the left side. The piece I'm looking at in your picture is for the right side.

[Dave 53]

Instead of the bulb, consider using just yoga mat. Much cleaner look. Rock protection / sound deadening. 191364191365

[cob427sc]

Dave 53 is correct in that you have the panels on the wrong side. I did the same thing, had to take them all apart and reinstall. The instructions are not clear on how to install these.

[blomb11]

Thanks Dave and cob427sc I feel dumb. I literally looked at both because I thought I had them incorrect. I will flip them around and see if that helps me see how it should fit. John's pictures help too! I just need to get time back in the garage.

[idf]

Here are some pictures of mine. I used the Zero Decibel Motorsports mounting tabs at the top and two rivnuts at each end on the bottom. Reasonably easy to remove when needed.191368191369191370

[blomb11]

It took a little longer than expected but I got the rear splash guards installed. I created a bracket mounted to the rear shock tower brace and then also had to extend the fronts. I unbent the 90 deg bend and added a bracket. I have about 2” between the tire and the top of the guard. Hopefully I won’t bottom or rub. Guess I will find out when I add the rear wing and do a shakedown.

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I am still working through the wiring to figure out my tail light issue. The parking light switch on the steering column doesn’t work so something is not right. I am going to glue in the headlight lenses and then pick up some Black Friday deals too :cool:

[RPGs818SNA]

Hey Brandon,

Here’s a quick procedure to check to see where you are losing power to the tail lights.
1. Check Fuse #7 on the black fuse box for continuity and one side of the socket for 12v.
2. Unplug B69 under the steering wheel (see photo) and check for power on the White Red wire.
Sigh, photo won't upload, although an irrelevant one did. It's the middle 4 pin connector under the steering wheel.OK, here it is.
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3. Reconnect B69 and turn the parking switch to the ON position.
4. Check Fuse #5 on the tan fuse box for continuity and one side of the socket for 12v.
5. Check the Red Yellow wire at the tail light for power and the Black wire for continuity to ground.

The problem will be between the last place you found 12v power and the first place you didn’t. Refer to your post #275 for the schematic pages relevant to these test points.

Hoping it’s just a blown fuse or loose connector B69,
RPG

[Dave 53]

It took a little longer than expected but I got the rear splash guards installed. I created a bracket mounted to the rear shock tower brace and then also had to extend the fronts. I unbent the 90 deg bend and added a bracket. I have about 2” between the tire and the top of the guard. Hopefully I won’t bottom or rub. Guess I will find out when I add the rear wing and do a shakedown.

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I am still working through the wiring to figure out my tail light issue. The parking light switch on the steering column doesn’t work so something is not right. I am going to glue in the headlight lenses and then pick up some Black Friday deals too :cool:

I'd suggest leaving your top mounting bolts out until you're sure there is no rubbing on top. If you have the bolts in when it rubs, something will break or bend. I had to increase the height on mine by about 1.5".

You're just as likely to get rubbing on the sides of the splash guards. The camber will increase as the suspension compresses. I needed 10mm of wheel spacer to prevent this and to clear the trailing arm. Which turned into needing longer lugs.

[blomb11]

Yea I don’t know how much the rear suspension will compress under load. I have the 500 lb springs in the rear, 10mm wheel spacers, and extended lugs already. It was a tight fit already getting the splash guards that high but maybe there is still some room to raise it if needed.

[blomb11]

Headlight lenses glued in and it sure does pull together the front fascia. I painted the edges of the lenses black a couple months ago and kind of forgot about them. The fitment of them in each fender is not great and there are some large gaps around the edges. This kind of hung me up since I plan to wrap the car so I was unsure about what to do about the gaps. I thought about painting all of the edges black but instead I left them and will use body filler to make a nice transition. I had to fill a couple pin holes in the gel coat as I prepped the surfaces. I used some magnets on both sides and hung a hunk of steel on the back sides to try and add some weight while the sealant cured. Since this build is going to be a fair weather car and a track car I was not too concerned about making a water tight seal and used a clear silicone caulk sealant. I noticed my black lines are not perfect on the lenses and then there is some sealant that bled past the black paint. It is minimal so not perfect but I think still looks good.

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Next picture will be with the headlights install as well. I already have studs epoxied in to secure them. My second seat should be arriving soon and then I got my Racequip harnesses to install next. And I still need to figure out my tail lighting issue but installing new stuff is more fun than troubleshooting sometimes.

[blomb11]

Well, it's complicated. Since you can read the schematics, I'll just give you a roadmap. Here goes:

Parking switch above steering wheel works with ignition turned off or on. Check this first.
PSUP02 Battery + to A PSUP03
PSUP03 A to Fuse 7 to L PSUP04
PSUP04 L to FB12 to ILMES01
ILMES01 FB12 to PK SW ON to PK SW COM to FB3 Parking switch ON
PSUP04 FB3 to Fuse 5 to FB6 and FB7
ILMES03 FB6 to front parking lights to ground
ILMES03 FB7 to rear parking lights to ground

RPG

RPG,
I tried ohming out this circuit because nothing turns on with the parking switch above the steering wheel. Even with on and off I get a beep from FB3 to Fuse 5 or essentially FB3 to FB 6 or 7. If the switch or wires to the switch are function when the parking switch is off I shouldn’t get a beep correct?

[RPGs818SNA]

Hey Brandon,

Continuity from FB3 to Fuse 5 and on to FB6 or 7 is correct if Fuse 5 is good. Were you able to find out where the 12 volts stops using the post 282 procedure? That will narrow down where to look for the problem.

Your headlight lenses look great! I’m right behind you in getting mine in. Thanks for the inspiring photos.

All the best,
RPG

[blomb11]

I was only looking for continuity so I should go back now and trace the circuit looking at voltages. It gets a little tricky for one person to hold the multimeter ends for say FB3 to Fuse 5 :o. Had to get creative with some wire and tap haha. I will post some pics with the headlights installed now too!

[blomb11]

A while back I followed a similar approach as Helixx used to secure the headlights to the fenders. I bonded sink fasteners to the inside of the fenders and use 3/8" foam weather stripping around the edges. The only real issue I found was the threads are almost not long enough, but I was able to secure the wing nuts. Maybe a thinner foam would help. The front looks much more complete now!

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I removed the dash and the front center console to begin tracing the parking light circuit. I want to get this figured out so I can mount my passenger seat and racing harnesses. This will then allow me to install the windshield too. I am concerned once the windshield is installed getting to things under the dash will be challenging.

[RPGs818SNA]

Great looking lights, and a good serviceable mounting system. I hope the front lights are plug and play!

[blomb11]

I have some weird things going on with the parking lights and turn/hazard signal circuits. I tore open the dash and the center console to be able to trace wires and get to the fuse box easily.

I began checking for voltages on the Parking Lights per RPG's steps because the switch on the steering wheel does not work.

Parking switch above steering wheel works with ignition turned off or on. Check this first.
PSUP02 Battery + to A PSUP03
PSUP03 A to Fuse 7 to L PSUP04
PSUP04 L to FB12 to ILMES01
ILMES01 FB12 to PK SW ON to PK SW COM to FB3 Parking switch ON
PSUP04 FB3 to Fuse 5 to FB6 and FB7
ILMES03 FB6 to front parking lights to ground
ILMES03 FB7 to rear parking lights to ground

Fuses 7 and FB12 do not have any voltage on them but FB3 to FB6/FB7 do have 12V which is weird. And it does not matter whether the parking switch is on or off. This whole circuit ohms out so I am not sure why there is no voltage going in from the battery to Fuse 7. I will have to try and find the wire color to Fuse 7 to trace to the battery or make sure the FB is getting power.

Turn/Signal Hazard Circuit:
So I have to be honest here I accidently wired the left rear tail light wires to the right tail light and vice versa. I noticed most of the wire colors are the same and spliced on both except for the turn signals. So I swapped only the BG (left) and LgB (right) wires to swap the turn signals. However, now the right front/rear turn signal works fine but the left is a different story. The front left turn signal works fine but the left rear flashes orange with the right white (reverse) light. When putting it in reverse the reverse lights are white and both come on so something strange is happening. I pulled the bulbs out of both turn/reverse sockets and noticed the pins were touching. I thought maybe this was the culprit. I tried to separate them with a small piece of plastic, reconnected them, but the left orange turn signal and the right white reverse still comes on when trying to check the left turn signal. I think I read on the forum these sockets were a challenge to begin with. Next is the hazard switch which is connected but when you turn the switch on nothing happens and toggling on the left or right turn signals does nothing either. Maybe nothing is supposed to happen trying to turn on the left or right turn signals when the hazard switch is pressed I am not sure.

Something strange is happening due to wire harness dieting. I know I went crazy with trying to remove all of the dash light for the subsystems I removed so maybe I am paying the price for that. Does not seem like a quick fix so I will have to pick one circuit and start from the beginning to see what the issue is so I can fix it and move on.

[RPGs818SNA]

Hey Brandon,

Let’s fix the tail lights first. Here’s my list with the wire colors for a 2007 harness. There are 2 Fuse 7’s. Check the one in the black fuse box. There are also 2 Fuse 5’s. Check the one in the tan fuse box. From there, it’s RY wire all the way to the tail lights.

Parking switch above steering wheel works with ignition turned off or on. Check this first.
PSUP02 Battery + to A PSUP03
PSUP03 A to Fuse 7 (in black main fuse box, 20A) (WR) to L PSUP04
PSUP04 L to FB12 (WR) to ILMES01
ILMES01 FB12 (WR) to PK SW ON to PK SW COM (Or) to FB3 Parking switch ON
PSUP04 FB3 (Or) to Fuse 5 (in tan fuse box, 10A) to FB6 (RY) and FB7 (RY)
ILMES03 FB6 (RY) to front parking lights to ground
ILMES03 FB7 (RY) to rear parking lights to ground

Next, those turn signal sockets are pretty poor quality. I did my best to insulate the 3 contacts from each other with red fingernail polish and a small piece of plastic. That’s working so far.

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Sounds like yours are shorting between the turn signal power wire (BG/LgB) and the reverse signal power wire (BrY). If either turn signal shorts to reverse, both reverse lights will light up since they are connected together. If you can’t get them to behave, I think I have a VW part number for a better version of the sockets.

Lastly, when the hazard switch is OFF, the turn signals are powered by the ignition relay, which seems to be working for you. When the hazard switch is ON, the turn signals are powered by MB6 (W) Fuse 6 (black fuse box) which runs to the hazard switch pin 8 (W). From there it exits Pin 7 (BrR) and runs to the blinker pin 1 (Turn Signal and Hazard Module). Track that path to get power to the blinker when the hazard switch is on.

Hope this helps get your lights working.

RPG

[blomb11]

Thanks RPG! I will give it a shot and see where I end up.

[blomb11]

Something fishy is going on. I don’t get voltage from the battery + to the black main fuse box. I made the red 8 Awg cable and connected it from the battery to the fuse box. It’s ohms out from the battery to the fuse box post and have 0.1 ohms so I doesn’t seem like a cable issue. Just no voltage with the key off or on. And no voltage from the battery to fuse 7 in the black fuse box but I think this is tied to not having voltage on that red 8 awg wire from the battery. I believe all of the grounds are connected so not sure what the issue is.

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I snapped off one of the mounts to the gauge cluster of course when taking the dash off last week. So hopefully some JB Weld will hold the mount so I can fasten it to the dash again.

[RPGs818SNA]

Wow, that IS fishy, but should be easy to resolve. Try measuring the voltage from battery negative to the frame, expecting near zero volts. Then battery negative to battery positive, expecting 12 volts. Then battery negative to the battery end of your red wire going to the black fuse box, expecting 12 v. Then battery negative to the fuse box end of the red wire, expecting 12 volts. Finally, measure battery negative to both sides of Fuse 3 in the black fuse box, expecting 12v. The first unexpected measurement should point to the problem. The ignition switch position shouldn't matter.

[blomb11]

Wow, that IS fishy, but should be easy to resolve. Try measuring the voltage from battery negative to the frame, expecting near zero volts. Then battery negative to battery positive, expecting 12 volts. Then battery negative to the battery end of your red wire going to the black fuse box, expecting 12 v. Then battery negative to the fuse box end of the red wire, expecting 12 volts. Finally, measure battery negative to both sides of Fuse 3 in the black fuse box, expecting 12v. The first unexpected measurement should point to the problem. The ignition switch position shouldn't matter.

I forgot to add in the first post that I was measuring from battery +. Battery - to frame is 0V as expected. Battery - to all of other points you mention measures 12V. From your previous steps Battery - to fuse 7 in black fuse box is 12V. Battery - to FB12 is 0V. Battery - to FB3 is 12V.

Battery + to the red cable end in the black fuse box is 0V and battery + to fuse 7 is 0V.

[blomb11]

I figured it out! I was reading the wiring diagram wrong because FB-X doesn’t relate to a fuse in the F/B tan fuse box rather the circuit bus. Turns out F/B tan fuse box #5 was burned out. Swapped it out and the tail lights come on now with the parking switch. I traced the front circuit to something with the headlight wiring. I will check that next but getting closer!

[RPGs818SNA]

That's a good step forward! I like easy fixes like a fuse.

[blomb11]

I got my hazard lights working. I found another blown fuse so thankfully it was an easy fix! I isolated the front parking light issues to the headlight itself. I wired the parking light to the yellow wires of the small circular lights. I need to pull the bumper to check the splice or maybe this was not a good idea. I have the white wire of these lights tied to the headlights.

I spent the day fixing my shifting linkage. I noticed the flanges hanging off of the bracket that attaches to the shifting rod was interfering with the bumper. I cut off the flanges and welded on a flange to adapt to the fire/aft linkage. I have to cut down the threads at the end of the linkage to get the shifter back to center. It does make it easier to get into 5th/6th and reverse now.

The two pictures shows the original bracket.

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[RPGs818SNA]

Congratulations on getting the hazard lights going, Brandon. Those FFR supplied circular front parking lights were a puzzle. The internals look like this.

194173

They don’t really light up below 13 volts, that is, with the engine running, so they are not great as hazard lights. The white wire provides barely perceptible brighter light than the yellow wire due to that 100 ohm resistor.

The headlights are powered whenever the ignition switch is on, and are controlled by grounding their low side. Connecting the white wire of the LED to the headlight will keep the LEDs on whenever the ignition switch is on. That will make them work as running lights.

Connecting the yellow wire to the parking wire will make them work with the hazard switch as well. Since the hazard lights are often used with the engine off and only battery power, I’d probably connect the white wire to the parking wire and the yellow to the headlight wire to get the most light from just the battery, but I doubt you will be able to notice the difference.

Here’s hoping you’re near the end of your lighting issues.
RPG

[blomb11]

Before my headlight wiring attempt I found an old post you had on Octoberknight’s page discussing these LEDs. I might have swapped the white and yellow wires on accident so I will double check my wiring. My battery voltage is only at 12v right now so I will need to charge it or run the car.

[blomb11]

Finally it looks like a race car with 2 seats and harness bars! :cool: I thought I was cleaver when I installed the driver's seat to weld in bars for the passenger seat. Well turns out I was off by about 0.5" so I had to cut them out and weld in new ones to get the spacing correct. With both seats finally installed I was also able to install the sheetmetal panel under the seats to seal off the cockpit. I think this was the last major piece for the cockpit hopefully with just some cosmetic pieces left.

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While I had the panels off I cut out sections right behind the front wheels in the side pods similar to what Hobby did to get some extra air flow to the engine bay. I have a couple more openings to cut out and then I will install black mesh.

195376

Back on the front parking lights I noticed I have the white and yellow wires switched so I will have to correct this to align with what RPG recommended. Hopefully this resolves the issue! Then I think I am good to get the windshield installed, look at registration, and begin the rear wing structure build.

[blomb11]

It feels like I am working through the final punch list before I can attempt to get this thing registered. I ordered some SPA F1 side mirrors and they are a lot smaller than what it looked like in the picture. I went with convex lenses to try out the increased FOV. I will have to see what it is like driving the car. I attempted to wrapped them in carbon vinyl to achieve the poor man's APR mirrors but wrapping definitely takes more skills than I have acquired yet. It took 3 throw away attempts and I still have many wrinkles around the edges. It looks okay from afar at least ha so I will have to redo them down the road. I ordered a cheap Hella horn off eBay and mounted them on the sides of the radiator brackets. A quick check ensured the copper wiper connector I installed on the NRG steering wheel actually works. And then I also got to wrap the downpipe and muffler. I was not able to cover the flat surface of the muffler so hopefully that won't expose too much added heat.

I verified starting the engine all of the lights work including the parking lights. I have the small LED accent lights (yellow wire) wired to the parking lights which I believe goes to the internal resistor. So either my battery needs more of a charge or I need to switch to the white wire to see if I can get the front parking lights to work with the engine off.

195726 195727 195728 195729 195730 195731

Next up is to install the aluminum mesh I order for the openings on the rear bumper and read deck lid. Get the windshield installed (with rear view mirror), install the wiper, string alignment, and set the brake bias. Maybe the front lip too. A bolt and nut check and then I think it would be ready to register :cool: which is crazy to think.

[driveslikejehu]

Sounds like my last bit before registration. I don't know about your state, but the bureaucracy moved slowly. I had to keep calling and find the one person who does "specially constructed" vehicles for the whole state and ask what else was needed; they never called me. They were more familiar with Cobra kits...
When the Police Investigator came out to inspect it, it was easy.
Hope it goes smoothly...
BTW, my front running lights aren't on with just battery, only when engine is running.

[blomb11]

That seems to be the trend. Everyone knows the cobra kits and then the 818 is just the red headed step child haha. I will stay vigilan. Still surreal I finally made it this far.

[Bicyclops]

That seems to be the trend. Everyone knows the cobra kits and then the 818 is just the red headed step child haha. I will stay vigilan. Still surreal I finally made it this far.

A guy in the next lane actually recognized my car yesterday. He yelled "Is that an 818?". He went on to say that he has a Daytona.

California registration was a 5 step process and a hassle and took some time, but everybody seemed to know the process. Good luck with it.

Ed

[blomb11]

First time the car has had all of the panels on and with a windshield. Not too shabby for the red gel coat if you don’t look too close. I had a local guy come out to install the windshield. We both noticed the windshield manufacturing quality was not the best and there is a hairline crack at the bottom of the driver side. The guy was still able to install the windshield and thankfully the crack hasn’t turned up the glass. I had to take the car out for a spin since it had been a couple months since the last time I took it out. I put in about 2-3 miles around the neighborhood. The car needs a serious alignment with lots of front negative camber. Lots of rub on the front 235s at 4.5” off the ground. In boost this car is quick! However, I noticed it cut power on me which made me think I hit the limited but no and then there was a CEL boo. The scanner showed a P0021 cam position timing and a P0014 manufacturers control. I had oil pressure while driving the car but I noticed idling back in the garage my oil pressure gauge read 0 psi. No bueno.

I am going to swap my pressure sensors since it’s mounted in the sandwich plate to see if the heat or vibration got to it. The road is a little bumpy and it’s pretty close to the wrapped header. And then the bigger pain is going to be pulling the AVCS banjos to check and remove the filters. I remember looking at the one by the turbo not knowing there were 2 more to check.

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I am almost done with installed the windshield wiper as well. I got it mounted and wired up just need to set and adjust the wiper. Of course I used the R front surround hood support. So I will have to drill out those rivets and install the one that came with the wiper kit.

[lpmagruder]

Congrats man that's a great milestone!

I "finished" my car in sept of last year but I've been doing DIY engine tuning pretty much since then. I think a lot of people bring them to a dyno tuner and get it done in an afternoon, but since there's so much different in this car than what the factory ECU is expecting, a LOT of the tables need changing, and a lot of codes need to be deleted. Getting WOT is not too bad but the daily driving/partial throttle stuff is a whole different animal.

[blomb11]

Nice congrats! There is always something to work on I am sure. I worked with my local tuner last summer to have the car E-tuned for flex fuel. The idle is always the hardest part to get right! You are right though most of these builds are pretty custom and need some extra sorting. I am going to inspect my AVCS oil lines and the small filters to make sure there is nothing strange and swap out the oil pressure sensor to see if I vibrated it to death. I have the sensor hard mounted to the sandwich plate on the oil filter. I am told these sensors can be sensitive to vibration. Hoping this solves this issue!

[Dave 53]

Nice congrats! There is always something to work on I am sure. I worked with my local tuner last summer to have the car E-tuned for flex fuel. The idle is always the hardest part to get right! You are right though most of these builds are pretty custom and need some extra sorting. I am going to inspect my AVCS oil lines and the small filters to make sure there is nothing strange and swap out the oil pressure sensor to see if I vibrated it to death. I have the sensor hard mounted to the sandwich plate on the oil filter. I am told these sensors can be sensitive to vibration. Hoping this solves this issue!

I put a timer/relay from Amazon on the oil pressure idiot light so the light will blink for 15 seconds even if the pressure drops for only a split second, then recovers. For example, in a high G turn when I'm not looking at the dash. And I rewired it to a big bright light on the dash in in my prefrail vision next to the oil temp and water temp warning lights. As a note, with a Killer B pan and pickup and Arctangent oil control plate, other than at start up, only once the warning light came on with the engine running as noted below. I've never had the low oil pressure trigger on track and I track my car on some 10 second, 1.3g turns (Thunderhill East turn 2).

I had the oil pressure sensor wire insulation melt and the wire grounded which triggered the warning light. I found a high temperature wire sleeve to protect the wire. I also have a gauge, so when the warning light started flashing, it was reassuring to see pressure on the gauge. I got a mechanical oil pressure testing gauge just to make sure. The dash gauge and test gauge were the same, but I made a huge mess. I'll wrap a rag around the pressure relief valve on the test gauge next time.

[blomb11]

I pulled out the scanner and checked the CELs and cam position sensor P0021 is gone. I started it and the oil pressure sensor read normal cold pressures so that’s good. I will need to take it for another drive and this time log it to see if the CEL comes back. I am also going to do a string alignment this weekend because I need a lot of camber up front to clear the 235s. I may need to buzz down the inside lip to add some clearance. I think I am maxed out on the height using the R suspension point at 4.5” frame off the ground. Another 0.25-0.5” would help for street ability though.

Is this how it’s supposed to be for the license plate lights and frame? I want it to be removable for track time so I will have to drill holes in the bumper and make disconnects for the wiring.

196811

[driveslikejehu]

The holes at the ends are for the plate I think. I got little plastic inserts at the parts store. Here's my setup
196819

BTW, I just corner balanced my car. It moves the ride height around a bit, so you might want to do that before finalizing the height.

[Dave 53]

I pulled out the scanner and checked the CELs and cam position sensor P0021 is gone. I started it and the oil pressure sensor read normal cold pressures so that’s good. I will need to take it for another drive and this time log it to see if the CEL comes back. I am also going to do a string alignment this weekend because I need a lot of camber up front to clear the 235s. I may need to buzz down the inside lip to add some clearance. I think I am maxed out on the height using the R suspension point at 4.5” frame off the ground. Another 0.25-0.5” would help for street ability though.

Is this how it’s supposed to be for the license plate lights and frame? I want it to be removable for track time so I will have to drill holes in the bumper and make disconnects for the wiring.

196811

You have it right if you want to integrate the lights into the license plate frame as I did.

If you want to easily remove the plate, make sure the lights and the plate are completely separate. I have to cut the wires to completely remove the plate. I include extra wire length to allow for multiple cuts if needed. I do have a wire connector, but it's for when I completely remove the rear body panel.

I do remove my front license plate at the track for radiator air flow reasons. To make it easy, it's held on with a single bolt.

196820196821

[blomb11]

The holes at the ends are for the plate I think. I got little plastic inserts at the parts store. Here's my setup
196819

BTW, I just corner balanced my car. It moves the ride height around a bit, so you might want to do that before finalizing the height.

Ah okay I was looking a lot some similar license plate inserts on Amazon last night. Just odd the plate doesn’t come with them and typical nothing in the manual regarding this step. And the way you have the lights makes sense. I was thinking something similar just wanted to confirm before I add more holes :D

[blomb11]

I am working on my alignment and noticed something odd. On the front UCAs are the longer links supposed to be at the front of both? Or is it supposed to be switched like I have it? It doesn’t seem like I could install the left on the right or vice versa nor upside down because of the grease fittings. Did I get two of the same side on accident?

I wonder if I can live with it and just adjust it…does explain why the left has 4.8* caster and the right has 0.3* caster.

Front left:
196885

Front right:
196886

[RPGs818SNA]

Per the manual: The welded side of the balljoint mount goes forward with the shorter adjusting arm toward the rear. Looks like one of yours is backwards. I had to take one of mine apart and reassemble to get the welded side forward and the grease nipples upward.

[blomb11]

Or I just can’t read and follow directions…thanks Robert! I will pull it apart and flip the welded end around. I remember one of the upper ball joints being hard to screw in so hopefully this one comes out :rolleyes:

[RPGs818SNA]

It's pretty easy to miss manual assembly details when the parts arrive mis-assembled without warning. :) I'm installing door handles now and the manual is totally wrong for my door frames and liners. I'm making and correcting my unguided mistakes continuously. It's part of my learning process. I hope your correction process goes smoothly.

Robert

[blomb11]

I will have to redo my alignment a bit when I correct the front right UCA, however, right now I am at -2* camber in the front and -2.5* in the rear. I seem to be maxed out in the front and I have read some trim the UCA threaded rod and or link. Do you need to trim both or just the threaded rod? I will probably find out when I disassemble the UCA but it seems like just trimming the threaded rod would work assuming that is what is the limiting factor.

197015

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I will have to redo my alignment a bit when I correct the front right UCA, however, right now I am at -2* camber in the front and -2.5* in the rear. I seem to be maxed out in the front and I have read some trim the UCA threaded rod and or link. Do you need to trim both or just the threaded rod? I will probably find out when I disassemble the UCA but it seems like just trimming the threaded rod would work assuming that is what is the limiting factor.

197015 Brandon, on our car we started with -2.5 deg of camber. we found during heavy straight line braking the nose would dive and actually increase the negative camber. At the point only the inside edges of the tires were touching the ground. Not enough contact area to stop the car. Our final setting ended up being -0.5 deg after we stiffen the rear springs to prevent body roll. We did 20+ autocrosses and a couple of track days before we were happy with our suspension setup. Bob

[RPGs818SNA]

I had to cut ½” off the welded rod, but only on the passenger side, to get to the recommended street values of -0.62 camber and 3.5 caster. Weird.

My best discovery was that I could adjust the caster and camber by measuring from the spindle nipple to the firewall or frame. Reducing the nipple to frame distance by 0.03” increases the negative camber by 0.1 degrees. Reducing the nipple to firewall distance by 0.03” increases the caster by 0.1 degrees. With that information I could measure camber, determine what change I wanted, figure out how far to move the spindle, move it, and measure again, and be pretty close. Adjusting caster is the same, except when adjusting the turnbuckles, you have to keep the distance to the frame the same so as to not change the camber.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

This is a picture of my Upper A_Arm when I was at the same point as you. In hindsight, I wish I had put two small holes in each turn-buckle so i could verify I was getting enough thread engagement.

197087

[blomb11]

Thanks Bob for the feedback super helpful! I may add the holes because I was wondering that same thing during my adjustments. I am going to star with -2* camber all around and adjust from there. On the fronts I need the negative camber to try to clear the 235 tires. I think I am still going to have to trim the inside of the fenders or raise the car up another 0.25".

[blomb11]

It feels like it took forever to get the car aligned. Well it was pretty out of whack and then had to review the forum on how to cut the UCA links. I cut off 0.5” from both welded rods, 0.25” from both rear threaded rods on both sides, cut both long links by 0.25”, and then both short links by 0.5”. I don’t think cutting the short links was completely necessary. I built wooden blocks with Masonite panels to allow the adjustments to be easier. I also picked up a wheel alignment kit from Amazon which seemed to work well. Getting the strings set up the first time was tedious, but now I know the distances so it’s easy to setup. Which I did about 5 times ha. I was able to get it set with an initial alignment and will see how it feels after a shake down. I ordered 12mm spacers so the rear so I can adjust the rear bump. With 10mm spacers I am stuck because there is only a 0.018” gap between the wheels and each rear trailing arm. The lower lateral arms are not parallel so hopefully the spacers will let me even them out.

Alignment specs:
Front left and right
Caster = 4.9*
Camber = -2.0*
Toe (in) = -0.036”

Rear left and right
Caster
Camber = -2.0*
Toe (in) = -0.0625”

I also got the rear license plate frame and lights installed as I get ready to begin the registration process.

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[driveslikejehu]

With folks talking about clearance, I had to remind myself what I did. I can’t remember how the VCP modified trailing arm is supposed to go but I ended up offsetting the front of the trailing arm as shown to clear the tire. I cut one of the spacers, and there's a washer on the inside between the lug and bushing.
On the rear I ended up with 5mm spacers instead of 10 to give clearance to the fenders, with 245/40-17. I was fighting fender to engine cover gap and tire clearance.
Maybe its jacked up, but it only changed the trailing arm geometry ~1.5deg and I have clearance thru full range of motion.
197912

[blomb11]

My issue is the upper arm maybe I am calling it by the wrong name. The lower VCP trailing arm I clear no problem with 10mm spacers but it’s the upper that I need to get more clearance from. There are too many adjustments!

[Bicyclops]

I had to push the upper arm (and the trailing arm too) over all the way with the spacers on the outboard side much like Jehu is showing for his. The length of the upper one is what parallels the lateral arms.

Ed

[blomb11]

That’s actually a better idea than using larger wheel spacers. I followed the manual too closely and didn’t think outside the box like you both. I will give it a shot.

I drove the car around the block and it feels pretty solid but I didn’t get up past 40 mph. The negative camber in the front helps a lot but the 235s still rub turning. Especially a high speed corner I imagine it will run more. I am still considering sanding down the inner lip on the front fender to add clearance.

[Bicyclops]

Outside of the box is pretty much where I live if only because I have so little automotive build experience. I don't even really know what I don't know.

I've got 215/35R18 Pilot Sport 4S on 18x8 Enkei TS10 wheels with 45 offset and 10mm spacers and I rub on the inside at full lock. Outside no problem. I'm running 255/35R18 Pilot Sport 4S rear on 18x9.5 x 45 TS-10 and 12mm spacers. My closest to rub is my Caddy Brembos and the upper arm right at the rim on the rears. I've got aftermarket tubular trailing arms and I even bent them a little more for clearance. I think I could actually get 275s in there. Incidentally, we test fit my wheels on my nephew's build and his OEM bent metal trailing arms actually have a little more clearance than mine. Surprised me.

As for spacers, others have said - and I think it's pretty important - you must have extended studs. I used the ARP 12x1.5 set meant for a Mitsubishi Evo, I think.

I need to do some autocross to find out if I really need more tire patch. I haven't really been able to break it loose. We did some super twisties today and I ate my buddy's Cobra up. This on a road he's done dozens of times and it was my first. He's got a ton more low end torque, but can't stay with me in the corners and I'm still just learning how to drive this car. ;-)

Ed

[blomb11]

Outside of the box is pretty much where I live if only because I have so little automotive build experience. I don't even really know what I don't know.

I've got 215/35R18 Pilot Sport 4S on 18x8 Enkei TS10 wheels with 45 offset and 10mm spacers and I rub on the inside at full lock. Outside no problem. I'm running 255/35R18 Pilot Sport 4S rear on 18x9.5 x 45 TS-10 and 12mm spacers. My closest to rub is my Caddy Brembos and the upper arm right at the rim on the rears. I've got aftermarket tubular trailing arms and I even bent them a little more for clearance. I think I could actually get 275s in there. Incidentally, we test fit my wheels on my nephew's build and his OEM bent metal trailing arms actually have a little more clearance than mine. Surprised me.

As for spacers, others have said - and I think it's pretty important - you must have extended studs. I used the ARP 12x1.5 set meant for a Mitsubishi Evo, I think.

I need to do some autocross to find out if I really need more tire patch. I haven't really been able to break it loose. We did some super twisties today and I ate my buddy's Cobra up. This on a road he's done dozens of times and it was my first. He's got a ton more low end torque, but can't stay with me in the corners and I'm still just learning how to drive this car. ;-)

Ed

Nice! I want to get the car out on the road to really drive it and see how it feels.

I have the extended lugs and VCP trailing arms on the rear. I am going to try flipping the upper trailing arm spacers tomorrow night to see if that helps before trying the 12mm spacers. Hopefully then I can increase the upper arm length to even out the adjustable lower lateral links. On the fronts with 235s at full lock the wheels hit the firewall on both sides so I need to install the lock rings I have to limit the travel. Fine tuning at this point which is a cool stage to get to.

I have Enkei TSV 17x8 +38 with 235s on the fronts and 18x9.5 +38 with 265s on the rears.

[Bicyclops]

The 38mm offset is more in line with reality so you can probably get by with less spacer as long as you can clear the calipers. I was looking to do 17s in the front but couldn't find matching brand/model tires for the rear. I know that pure racers will scoff at my Michelins, but they are sticking pretty well on these canyon roads and I don't worry too much when I cross the fairly frequent wet patches. So far the 215s have been plenty on the front and the only time I rub them is when I do a u-turn. I usually end up with a t-turn. Oh well. The skinny sidewalls seem to help with grip in the turns. I don't feel any flex, but I do feel every pebble and crack for sure. Saw a rock the size of a head on the road yesterday. Wouldn't want to try that one. Easy enough to drive around it fortunately. There's been a lot of road closures from mud and rock slides around here lately. Canyon roads + rain. I'll probably complain when it dries out and gets hot.

Getting it pretty much complete enough drive a lot really is a different world. You're gonna love it. This really is a supercar on a budget. Mine will never have the fit and finish of a McLaren or a Ferrari and would get smoked by them anyway, or maybe even by a good driver in a Boxster, but for the bucks? I'm having fun. Getting tuned next week. Gonna do E85 flex fuel.

Ed

[blomb11]

I have the jug filled with E85 sitting in the garage. I need to add it in and see how much of a difference that goes. On 91 the car already pulls hard so I assume it will be even crazier with E85 on board! I need more space than the neighborhood to try it though :D

[Bicyclops]

Unless it's tuned for it and a flex fuel sensor telling the ECU real time ethanol content, it'll be maybe 30% too lean.

Ed

[blomb11]

I offset the spacers outboard on the connection of the upper trailing arm to the rear spindle. I now have a 0.25” of clearance from the link to the wheel which is awesome! No need for 12mm spacers just had to think outside the manual (thanks again). I also adjust the rear bump to be 0.15* in (rear lateral link lower than front link). The alignment is all set for now until a shakedown or more miles.

[blomb11]

Well the P0021 cam position timing error CEL came back and I sent a data log to my tuner to confirm I need to check the oil filter screens on the AVCS oiling lines. I checked the one to the turbo oil feed when I was rebuilding but I didn’t know Subaru has a service bulletin that says to remove the oil screens. Oh well this was my first engine rebuild. I am going to have to remove the intake manifold and the rear timing cover to get to them. Kind of a pain and a setback.

[blomb11]

Well that was a doozy! To fix the P0021 CEL I decided to remove all of the AVCS oil screens from the system to prevent a future failure and to see if this was the culprit. Of course there is a Subaru SB I didn’t know about when I was assembling the motor that instructs you to do this anyways. So off I went loosening the turbo and every thing around it and then pulled off the timing kit. Of course the oil screens were clean and intact, but I did notice my timing was off by at least 1 tooth. I went back and looked at old pictures and I don’t think I did it right the first time so it’s always been off by a tooth. Good thing I haven’t beat on it. I thought taking it apart was the hard part but it took my at least a dozen times to get the timing set and dead on. There is almost no room between the motor and the firewall which made it challenging. I learned there is an order of operations and my mistake the first time. Once you set the motor in time and go to spin the crank two cycle to remove the slack in the belt DO NOT remove the tensioner pin. Each time I did this without spinning the motor first the belt would jump every time. I was also fighting an upper pulley I forgot to tighten oops.

Well the motor is timed, coolant bled, and ready to rock! Only took 2-3 weeks. I sent an idle data log to my tuner to see if anything needs to be adjust since it was not in time before.

Now just waiting on my plates and the car is insured so almost ready for its maiden voyage outside of the neighborhood. :cool:

Now that this is complete I can get back to working on the rear wing structure and oil/trans coolers.

[driveslikejehu]

Congrats on the registration... and finding the gremlin

[Dave 53]

I've had my timing belt off a couple of times for various reasons. Twice because I thought I had a cam shaft seal leak that turned out to be a leaking AVCS oil plug. Then I bench installed the timing on a new long block, installed the engine only to find out cam seals aren't included in a long block and REALLY had a cam shaft lack of seal leak. I think I've always pulled the pin before hand cranking. But, now you got me thinking about it!

The key, as is the case with any job, is to have the proper tools. Over several timing belt jobs, I have acquired all the proper tools and would be happy to lend them to anyone willing to pay for shipping to you and back to me.

I've always wondered about the firewalls I've seen some 818 builders install from inside of the engine compartment in addition to the firewall installed from the cockpit side. Can you remove that engine compartment firewall with the engine in place? If not, it seems a timing belt service will require pulling the engine out. Maybe the double insulation is worth it, but I'm sure glad I didn't have to pull the engine each time. After having to remove my (cockpit side) firewall more times than I can count for timing belt service and other reasons, I got tired of drilling out rivets and replaced them all with bolts.

The first time I did the in car timing belt service, I discovered the timing belt cover on the right side was bashed up. It was impossible to see the damage with a normal visual inspection. It required removing the coolant pipe that runs in front of the cover to see the damage. I concluded the damage was caused because the FFR kit deletes the pitch link that keeps the engine from moving fore and aft. With soft OEM motor and transmission mounts and no pitch link, the engine has excessive free fore and aft movement and the coolant pipe gets pinched between the timing belt cover and the lateral chassis bar causing the timing belt cover to break. The solution is to put much stiffer than OEM motor and transmission mounts. I have Cusco "bolt" mounts and no more broken timing belt covers. I assume Group N mounts would be enough, but I'm not sure....

[blomb11]

I thought I was going to have to pull the engine so I was dreading the job. I have a firewall installed on the engine side which makes it extra tight. I did see a builder or two add removable sections or a window for the timing which would have been smart now in hindsight. It was so tight on the right hand side I had to cut down the 10mm Allen socket to break the cam gears. While I was in there I swapped out the OEM exhaust cam gears for allow RCM one and swapped out the Allen cam bolts to upgraded 17mm hex bolts. I borrowed the Company 23 specialty tools from my brother in law. Without those and a mirror I would have been up a creek and would have had to pull the engine.

I have the group n motor mounts and an almost solid trans mount so hopefully I don’t see too much vibration.

[Bicyclops]

I've had my engine out twice, once because it spun a rod on the dyno and again when the front main seal was leaking. I did manage to replace the timing belt covers in place when the scavenge pump belt adjuster failed and ate it. I really wouldn't want to try to do the timing belt in the car. Just not enough room. My hat's off to you, Blomb for managing it. Pulling the engine is a *****, but I'm getting good at it, more's the pity.

Ed

[blomb11]

Probably part of the reason it took so long was having to use and articulate the mirror to try and line up the marks. I haven’t had to pull the engine yet but want to avoid it.

[blomb11]

Another item on the list I need to address is the ride height. When I raised the car I think I just maxed out the preload. I have the suspension on the R holes and am at 4.25” front and 3.75-4” in the rear. I want to remove the coilovers and adjust the length and preload to get it right but I think I might be maxed out on the R holes. If I move to the S holes I probably will need to redo my alignment but I guess I will have to if I adjust the coil overs.

Does anyone know what the max ride height with the R suspension holes is? My goal is 4.5” which will allow for more clearance with a front lip.

[Hobby Racer]

I had the same issue with the R holes. I moved to the S holes and it worked out much better.

[driveslikejehu]

After corner balancing, I'm at ~4.63" ride height in the S holes. I wouldn't want to be any lower as I'm not dedicated track but street and track. With any splitter I would be dragging everywhere.

[blomb11]

Thanks for the feedback sounds like I will move to the S holes front and rear.

@driveslikejehu what is your coilover length for reference? This way I know what to target to start with. Thanks!

[driveslikejehu]

I'll try to measure this morning, but I'm prepping for a track day so might be a couple of days...
Not sure it will help you anyway, as I'm running a hybrid setup. After researching various threads here, including comments from the FFR tech guy, I have 400# fronts and 300# rear; a slightly stiffer street set up.
When I set it up, I tightened the fronts so they were just beginning to compress the springs. That had the fronts at close to ~4.5inches. Then tightened the rears to get to that height.
Then I did corner balancing which moved things around a little.

[Dave 53]

My ride height is 4.25" and no issues street driving. But, I don't have a splitter to worry about.

When I went from a 5 speed to 6 speed, I had to increase the rear spring rate to 350# because the 6 speed is about 85# heavier than the 5 speed. 475# springs up front.

When it bottoms out on track if the springs are too soft or with too heavy of a passenger, it hits the body right in front of the rear wheels. I have 2 bolts there holding the front of the wheel splash guard which takes the impact. Don't use button top bolts because they will get rubbed down and you won't be able to get an alen wrench in. The hex bolts will rub down too, but you'll still be able to grab them with a vice grips. I'd also suggest NOT bolting the body panel to the bottom of the chassis under the door except near the front wheels to allow the panel to flex if it bottoms out. If the panel is bolted to the chassis there and you bottom out, it will break instead of flexing. I have a 200# passenger weight limit and I'm going to put my old Sparco seat in the passenger position which won't fit anyone over 200#, so instead of having to ask their weight, the test will just be fitting in the seat.

[blomb11]

No problem it makes sense there is no easy answer since it is all going to be different. No short cuts! I will make up 4.5" blocks and set the coil over length to get the ride height. Plus things will change as you mentioned John when I corner balance the car.

I have 350lb front springs and 500lb rear springs. Given I have the 6 speed and will add a rear wing this seems like a good starting point. I have seen some increase the front springs with added aero so I will see.

[Dave 53]

It took a couple of hours, but with a strategy around which wheel and up or down do I need to adjust to move the balance while minimizing the overall ride height differences, I got 50.0/50.0 and 4.25 +/- 0.25" at all 4 corners and called it good. I did the balancing with 200# of bricks in the driver's seat (alignments while seated in the car). I used a 4" painter's stir stick to measure height.

As a bonus, I put out a post on my local FB track group looking to borrow some scales and now I have a new Lemon's and HPDE friend.

[blomb11]

Man I over estimated the effort it would take to switch to the S suspension holes. It’s been at least a two week process but I forgot all the special bolts and new mismatch alignment spacers I had to order. Plus of course then adjusting the spacers a bit and drilling out the holes to get the 1/2” bolts to fit. Had to pick up a right angle drill and some stubby bits but was able to make it work. It is much harder to get to things something when it’s all assembled. Just have to button up the front and then I can set the ride height and redo the alignment.

I am got lucky having the front end apart when I read Bicyclop’s post about the front lower coil over bracket. I pulled them out and mine didn’t look like the welds penetrate that great either. My kit was a 2020 build as well. Pulled out the MiG and ran a not so pretty bead down each side, but avoiding where the bolt sits. So not a complete seam but it should be better than before.

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[Bicyclops]

Man I over estimated the effort it would take to switch to the S suspension holes. It’s been at least a two week process but I forgot all the special bolts and new mismatch alignment spacers I had to order. Plus of course then adjusting the spacers a bit and drilling out the holes to get the 1/2” bolts to fit. Had to pick up a right angle drill and some stubby bits but was able to make it work. It is much harder to get to things something when it’s all assembled. Just have to button up the front and then I can set the ride height and redo the alignment.

I am got lucky having the front end apart when I read Bicyclop’s post about the front lower coil over bracket. I pulled them out and mine didn’t look like the welds penetrate that great either. My kit was a 2020 build as well. Pulled out the MiG and ran a not so pretty bead down each side, but avoiding where the bolt sits. So not a complete seam but it should be better than before.

200381200382

If I saved anyone from having the same failure as I did, with perhaps a worse outcome, it was all worth it.

Ed

[blomb11]

I appreciate the lesson! Better safe than sorry in this case.

[blomb11]

Finally got the car aligned and back together for the car’s maiden voyage, well legally that is. I took off the flex fuel module and sent it back to Delicious Tuning because it stopped working. I took the car out and drove around close by just in case something went wrong. The car felt good and I tried to not to jump on it but man that’s hard to do when you hear all of the turbo noises. The car felt pretty good and responsive. I need to set the brake bias because it seems it’s shifted to the front just based on visual wear on the rotors. Unfortunately the P0021 CEL came back :(. I took out all of the AVCS oil screens and re-timed the motor. So I ordered a new AVCS solenoid from Subaru since the ones I refreshed the motor with I think are cheap Chinese ones. Hopefully this resolves the issue!

Nine Lives Racing was having a free shipping sale so I ordered a 70” wing oops. I started mocking up the front splitter so next up is going to be aero and coolers. Jacking up the front end sure is a challenge since it’s low so adding the splitter will make this even harder. Eventually I want to get the Quick jacks but I still need to resolve the issue for the track. So I will add a jacking bar to each side like I have seen others do.

[driveslikejehu]

Jacking up the front end sure is a challenge since it’s low so adding the splitter will make this even harder. Eventually I want to get the Quick jacks but I still need to resolve the issue for the track. So I will add a jacking bar to each side like I have seen others do.
I gave up trying to jack up one end or the other. I just always jack it up from the sides. I found a point that is approx. at the CG is near that rear square tube joint in the frame side. Just reach in enough to get the frame, not the f-glass sides. Gets it up on 4 jack stands in a couple of minutes. You may have a reason to need one end up though.

Give plenty of thought to the brake bias. At first I didn't think the rears were doing anything, so I biased it heavily rear and got better pads for the rear. Long story short, I ended with too much rear, and locked the rears and spun it at the track. Part of the issue was with track-oriented pads took plenty of heat to get them to work. So I never got the true picture on the street. Ended up with HPS fronts and HPS+ on the rear.

[blomb11]

I have jacked it up from the sides a couple times and the last time something slipped and it fell off the jack. Luckily it was only a couple inches but I need to repair a little fiberglass. I think the side pod moved so like you said I need to go further inward to just get the frame.

Good to know about the brake bias. I think it is set to 50/50 when I installed the Wilwood pedals and the master cylinders. I want to have someone video it to verify which one locks first. I need to call a friend but even the unworn pads it does have some stopping power.

[driveslikejehu]

Yes, I think there is plenty of braking power.
I have the dual cylinders also and the bias valve on the front. The plan being to generally balance it mechanically then fine tune with the bias valve. As I noted the problem is a location to get it all up to temp and then do enough hard stops- trying to induce lockup. After an on-track rear lockup and spin, I may have shifted it too much to the front, but without perfection, front seems better.
Last track day, I used a cool down lap to go in corners a little hot, hit the brakes, and yank the steering try to break the rears loose. The corner workers thought I was a bit goofy but it convinced me I not getting rear lockup.

[blomb11]

Part 1 of the splitter install is complete. I did a good amount of research to figure out how I wanted to mount the splitter. I want a quick disconnect solution since it will have to come off anytime it goes on a trailer. I looked at Professional Awesome and Nine Lives Racing at their quick disconnect brackets but I didn’t think there was room. Instead I made a backing bracket out of aluminum to pick up the 4 holes on the front fender supports. Part 2 will be to install the Professional Awesome splitter support rods that I ordered. I am still waiting for my Nine Lives Racing wing to ship.

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For the P0021 CEL issue I ordered a Subaru OEM AVCS solenoid. I believe the ones I used on the motor build were cheap Chinese units. Hoping this fixes the issue. Also still waiting to see what the issue is with my RMA flex fuel module. I did go on my first street legal drive nearby my house last week since I have plates now. Once I have the P0021 resolved I will feel more comfortable taking it for a longer drive. Can’t wait!

[Hobby Racer]

Pics do not show up :confused:

[blomb11]

I am waiting on splitter rods in order to finish the front splitter. So I decided to begin modeling up the rear wing structure. I took a lot of inspiration from Hobby’s design and adding a trans and oil cooler that will hang off the structure. I am planning to use 0.75” steel tubing with a 0.12” wall thickness. I ran a quick structural sim putting 1000lb where the wing will go and it looks rock solid. I am going to start buying the tube and weld tabs to get going on fabrication. I kind of want to get a chop saw because getting precise cuts with an angle grinder is challenging.

201954

[Rob T]

I have made a lot of really precise cuts on steel with the cheapest band saw from Harbor Freight, once its set up. I have struggled with my chop saw torqueing when cutting larger tubing. The band saw is slower, but I get really great cuts. I almost never use my chop saw anymore.

[blomb11]

Good idea I will check out HF! I might be able to borrow a bandsaw as well since I just need it for this one project. I always think they are big and clunky but there are some cool portable ones now.

[blomb11]

Yes! I swapped both AVCS solenoids with OEM ones and it seems like I have resolved the P0011 and P0021 CEL I was getting for cam position error. I swapped the last one Tuesday night so working from home today I had to take a quick break to see if that did the trick. I did buy cheap solenoids from a parts center online so from now on it will only be OEM sensors and solenoids. One of the cheap sensors looked like maybe it was off center like the OEM one looked. Now I feel more confident on taking a longer drive. I am still waiting on the RTV of my flex fuel module. I can't imagine what it will feel like with E85 on board :cool:

[Bicyclops]

I always buy OEM electronic stuff. Unfortunately, I sometimes have bought it from less than reputable sources (Amazon) and, though it looked like OEM, threw codes after just a few thousand miles. Cheaper not always genuine. Same happened with my AEM fuel pump from Amazon. Never pumped a drop of fuel.

I have a lowly 2L non-AVCS stroked to 2.14 with a 2.5L crank. E85 turned it into a monster. 310whp on 91 octane and 386 on ethanol! You're gonna love it.

Ed

[Dave 53]

I tested about 8 PCV valves. Cheap and easy to return. Easy test - blow, suck, does it leak? Subaru OEM was the clear winner. Some we absolutely worthless.

I recently pulled it out of the car for inspection and cleaning after about 18,000 miles. I had the car apart for a different project and it was exposed, so I took the opportunity. Still as good as new.

[blomb11]

So resolving the cam position CELs I felt more confident going for a longer drive. I drove down one of the major roads by my house about 14 miles round trip in stop and go traffic. The car felt great and quick! This is definitely the fastest car I have driven and it’s still on a 91 time. I should get my flex fuel module back next week and can’t wait to see the difference. I missed a downshift as one of the lights was turning and pretty sure I bounced it off the limiter. A few minutes later I could audibly hear a different exhaust note and the CEL was flashing. So I limped it home and pulled P0245 and P0302 for a misfire and waste gate circuit low. I tried looking at the log and there was definitely a weird behavior around the missed shift in mass air flow, timing, and waste gate duty cycle. Time to investigate.

I did take a short video of when everything was going smoothly.
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C96HcF8PmOm/?igsh=MTc4MmM1YmI2Ng%3D%3D

[driveslikejehu]

Congrats on the drive! Was so satisfying to finally drive it for me. As I'm exploring the potential at track days, I'm continually impressed with the power and grip.
Enjoy!

[blomb11]

Nice! I have been trying to figure out when I can sneak away from the fam to do a track day. Might have to wait until the fall down here in SoCal anyways since it’s pretty warm right now. I will drive it around town to get used to it since it’s very different than my old STI. I will finish up the aero next month…hopefully.

[driveslikejehu]

I'll share a recommendation I got; maybe do an autocross first. I wasn't really thinking of it as it's been years, but it was a good shakedown. Helped find a few bugs before committing to a full track day.

[blomb11]

Definitely not a bad idea. I started with autocross a few years back. I can see how it could help with seeing the braking and weight transfer is with a mid engine vs front engine. There are a couple of events coming up for that too in the next couple months.

[blomb11]

Progress has been slow lately waiting for parts and lots of things going on at home. I finally got the flex fuel module back and installed so things are running well on E85. I am still waiting to get the Professional Awesome racing splitter rods and mounts to finish the front splitter. I did receive my 9 Lives Racing wing or wang as they call it so that is what I am working on now. The last two weeks I was able to fab an aluminum floor under the engine and trans. I first tried making it two pieces but then realized there was not enough room for the fasteners for both sheets on the cross bar under the trans. I tried to braze the two pieces together to salvage the metal and cost but at 0.040" thick it was comical how quickly the metal warped. I had to suck it up and buy another sheet, cut it out as once piece, and then fit it up. It came out pretty decent and then I left room for future diffuser mounting pickups.

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I went to Harbor Freight and picked up a portable bandsaw and a portable bandsaw stand to help with the wing structure. It worked like a charm so you can see my little set up last Friday. I got most of the structure cut and welded in the car. I need some more weld tabs to integrate it and then need to rethink there the oil cooler will go. I forgot about the shifter cable on the left side which is exactly where I had the oil cooler modeled up. I modeled up an oil cooler duct so I am going to try a website I found to 3D print one since I did not find one that fit my requirements.

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[driveslikejehu]

Looking good!
I'm planning to add a wing over the winter; I like your support plan. I'm starting to feel it get loose powering out of corners, so I think the wing is needed.
I'm considering the second cutout in the rear bumper like you have. Does it help air flow out of the engine area? It's not really clear, looking at the few wind tunnel vids out there. Seems like it might stagnate in that flat bumper area.
I may try it anyway; when I come off the track, the engine cover is so hot I can barely touch it.

[blomb11]

Credit to Hobby Racer for the wing structure inspiration :)

I have not tested the rear cutouts yet but from many people on the forum and the few drives I have taken the engine bay heats up quick. So I want to try to move as much air through there as possible to try and keep things cool. I am hoping with the flat bottom and forcing the air through the enlarged side vents will help push it through the bumper openings.

[blomb11]

Making progress on the rear wing. I know the roll bar is going to disrupt the air going to wing but I am not sure how high it should sit. I am open to feedback from the forum on this so any suggestions? The rear roll bar measures 16” and the pylon measures 20”.

204093

[Hobby Racer]

I have no scientific data to back this up but I used an airfoil off an ultralight landing strut to smooth out the air around the top roll bar.

Starting the air foil for the upper roll bar (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?23199-John-s-EZ36R-H6-818R-Build&p=347992&viewfull=1#post347992)

[lance corsi]

What he said! The drag from a round tube is greater than the drag from an airfoil shape.

[blomb11]

I have no scientific data to back this up but I used an airfoil off an ultralight landing strut to smooth out the air around the top roll bar.

Starting the air foil for the upper roll bar (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?23199-John-s-EZ36R-H6-818R-Build&p=347992&viewfull=1#post347992)

I remember reading that in your build :) and have it bookmarked too. How high are you pylons? 14" APR pylons?

[Hobby Racer]

Yes, 14" APR pylons.

[blomb11]

I can’t stop starring at the car anytime I am in the garage! I finished up the wing structure, mounted the 9 Lives Racing wing, and finished the front splitter. I just put a couple layers of fiber glass over the elevator bolts in the splitter to keep them secure and then filled in the lip around the splitter to hopefully help with the air flow. The splitter really lowers the front and I scrapped big time getting out of the driveway. I am battling the same misfire in cylinder #2 CEL. I am working with my tuner to see if he can decrease the sensitivity for the light weight flywheel. I also had an overboost which is odd. Trying to get it stable so I can take longer drives and get to the track. The e85 in the tank is over a year old so that probably doesn’t help so I pumped it out and got some fresh e85.

Next up is to plumb the trans and oil coolers.

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[Hobby Racer]

It is nice to see the fruits of your labor. I often times catch myself staring at my car and thinking, Wow, I built that!

[Bicyclops]

Beautiful!

I did a lot of research and settled on a Fluidampr. I've got a lightweight Perrin if anybody wants one.

Ed

[blomb11]

I thought about the fluidampr. If I keep having issues might scoop one of those up.

[driveslikejehu]

The fab work looks great!
I actually ended up moving my splitter in an inch after a couple of track days. I think it's still working well, the front is really planted on turn-in, but the farther out the more it scraped, hinders loading etc. Don't know if there is an optimal position or "more is better?"
A wing will be one of the winter projects.

[blomb11]

It has been a frustrating few weeks. I am still trying to diagnose my cylinder 1 and/or 2 misfires. It is an odd behavior because the car starts up and initially runs fine. The first few minutes of the drive everything seems fine, pulls, and sounds normal. Then after a few minutes of driving and at random intervals I see the CEL flash and the exhaust tone is vastly different. It changes to a muffled rumble which is odd because I have an equal length header. Sometimes the CEL will go away but then it will come back after a couple minutes. I have verified the plugs, coil packs, injectors, and fuel pressure are all good. I ran a boost leak test which did show a couple loose fittings so I fixed those, but the next drive I still saw the CEL. I am on a MAF tune and the MAF seems fine after looking at the log showing good measurements. It is not an OEM MAF so there is that too. The first time it showed I was running 45% e85 and now I have 75% e85 in the tank. I am down to it either being an issue with the flex fuel tune or a bad ground in the wiring harness. I was talking with someone who had similar issues and it ended up being an issue with the spliced ground in his engine harness. So I think I will drain the tank and try one last time on 91 to see if it is the tune. Otherwise I will pull the engine harness, fill the grounds with solder, and strain relieve them.

[Dave 53]

I just got a code P0031 over the weekend. Wasn't too hard to diagnose. But now I need to pull the header off to fish out the broken off parts.

206063206064

[longislandwrx]

ooof thats a wild failure

[blomb11]

I think I finally figured out my cylinder 1 and 2 misfire issue. I feel like I thrown the kitchen sink at this over the last few months trying to figure this out. I had some cheap chinese sensors from when I rebuilt the engine still installed. Over this few month process I swapped to new 0.028" spark plugs, already had new Delicious Tuning coil packs, verified the fuel system, changed to OEM MAF, changed to OEM cam position sensors, good compression check, and a good leak down test. I feel like I verified the engine and engine sensors were all good. So then I moved to wiring and verified all of my grounds. I pulled the engine harness and filled all of the coil pack grounds and reinstalled it. I checked my frame ground connections as well. Then I moved on to see if it was tune related. I swapped back to previous tunes from when I knew the engine was running fine but still had the misfire issue. My last thought at this point was maybe the ECU was going out. While I was trying to flash to a different EcuTek ROM the car died and would not start. In the process of trouble shooting this is when I noticed I was not able to communicate to the ECU via the OBD2 port with my scanner or the EcuTek. I tore apart the cockpit to get to the ECU and verified the wiring between the OBD2 port and the ECU was fine. I had a spare ECU on hand so I decided to plug it in and see if it would allow me to communicate with the OBD2 port and boom it did!

Of course when you buy an EcuTek it is only good to flash a single ECU so I had to buy more flash points, or license basically, as EcuTek calls it so I can flash a second ECU. So another $250 gone poof ha so I was super anxious to flash the ECU and take the car for a spin. I did a first short drive around the neighborhood two weekends ago and there was no CEL. I did a second drive this past weekend with a short stint on the freeway. After getting on the freeway and passing two exits I saw a CEL pop up but it was steady and I did not notice any change in performance or sounds which was always a tell of the misfire. Thankfully it was just a evap code and no misfires. Really hope this is the end of my misfire issues. I need to get my oil cooler line leak sorted and then without the fear of misfires I can actually drive the car more!! Family life and work have made for slow progress on this troubleshooting. I feel like I have wasted months but hopeful to be able to start really driving the car.

[Hobby Racer]

Good to hear you have tracked it down! I had many similar issues with ECUs/wiring/sensors in the past, no fun.

[blomb11]

I also learned that the EcuTek tuner allows you to reprogram keys with your immobilizer which is awesome! This was another huge headache when I wanted to try switching the ECU. I thought I was going to have to tow it to a shop with a Subaru Select Monitor but thankfully I was able to reprogram the key/immobilizer with the spare ECU I had. The car fired right up after too phew!

[driveslikejehu]

I also learned that the EcuTek tuner allows you to reprogram keys with your immobilizer which is awesome! !
Wow, that's good to know. I've been scared of any problem coming up related to key/immobilizer/ECU, figuring I would brick the system

[blomb11]

I was still making some progress even working through my misfire dilemna. I was able to mount and plumb the trans and engine oil coolers. I deleted the OEM oil cooler/warmer from the block to try and give me more space to route the hoses. Of course the sandwich plate with thermostat I got was a tight fit and only allowed it to be installed one way. So this resulted in me having to extend out my oil temp sensor close to the firewall. I tried to route the oil cooler hoses down the side of the trans along the frame and then up through the EL headers. This was a very tight fit but I was able to squeeze it in and use the fire protection silicone liners on each cooler line. I am not really sure why I thought to put the oil cooler fan switch midway down the line but this just caused an unnecessary leak. Maybe it was to keep the wires out of the fan exhaust, but it required multiple AN fittings and I just can't get the leak to stop. So now I will have to rebuild this line and just put the switch at the cooler outlet up top. I mocked up a simple oil cooler duct in Creo and then I found an online print shop that sent me the part for $60. I routed a PVC dust vac line to the left side vent to get fresh air. I am not in love with my aluminum bracket and I think the hose will pop out at high speed. I am debating making a 3D printed part that I can attach the hose to with a proper clamp.

The trans cooler was pretty straight forward with the 6sp trans I have with the external oil line. I copied what Hobby Racer did on one of his trans cooler iterations so thank you for the inspiration.

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[driveslikejehu]

Yeah, it was tight routing the oil lines from the sandwich plate, and positioning pressure and temp sensors. You may know about this; Auto-Meter (probably others) make a shorter temp sensor which can help in tight locations
210190

[blomb11]

Interesting thanks for the info. Because I removed the oil cooler/heater it brought the sandwich plate to the block and thus the front cover is very close to the sandwich plate now. So I had to use two 1/8" NPT male to female couplers to move it out to not interfere with the plastic front cover. Looks kinda funny but at least it is not leaking.

[Bicyclops]

Is that an oil pressure sender cantilevered way out from the sandwich plate? I'd be worried that vibration might break it off.

Another solution to the tight space down under there might be a remote oil filter takeoff and hang an oil filter on the firewall where it'd be easier to change. A sandwich plate on that would go to the cooler. It does make for some longer hoses tho. Improved Racing makes some nice ones. That's how I did mine.

Ed

[blomb11]

I was just talking about this with my brother in law. I am going to use a -4AN line and remote mount the oil temp sensor on my rear firewall. Thanks for looking out!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I was just talking about this with my brother in law. I am going to use a -4AN line and remote mount the oil temp sensor on my rear firewall. Thanks for looking out!

A hose will work great for a remote pressure sensor. It will not work for a remote temperature sensor. Think about it.


My pressure and temp sensors are on my remote oil filter. 210255

[blomb11]

Correct I meant pressure sensor sorry. When I removed my headers I noticed I was melting through the fire sleeve. I had the oil lines pinched between the header and block. I wanted to keep the lines away from the turbo and DP, but to route it down the left side of the engine/trans required the lines to take a 180 deg turn exiting the sandwich plate. I ended up routing the lines down the right side, kept them as far away as possible from the turbo/DP, and this allowed for a straight in/out from the sandwich plate. I put new fire sleeve over the lines and now nothing is touching the headers. Kind of a shortsighted first approach but hopefully this works better. While everything was apart I used a 4AN hose to remote mount the pressure sensor on the rear first wall.

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Took the car for a drive to down the freeway a couple exits and everything seems to be working nicely. Car pulls hard and it was only on 21% E85 in the tank. Now I need to adjust the brake bias, get it corner balanced with a proper alignment, and then I am ready for the track. Finally!

[Dave 53]

Looking good! Good luck at the track. Looking forward to a debrief.

[Hobby Racer]

... Now I need to adjust the brake bias, get it corner balanced with a proper alignment, and then I am ready for the track. Finally!

Great news. I'd love to meet you at VIR again so we could both get some good laps in!

I'll be back there on June 18 & 19.

[blomb11]

I am still down in SoCal but my wife and I have been talking about relocating because the cost of living with 3 young kids is getting out of control. She is from Rochester so this would be in your neck of the woods. TBD and highly dependent on finding a new job. Of course right when I get the car ready but hoping to get to Chuckwalla or Willow Springs first.

[Hobby Racer]

Rochester is only 1.5 hour drive to Watkins Glen International. That is my home track, I'm there many times a year. If you do end up moving, contact me and we can meet up at the track. It would be nice to have another 818R. Presently I'm the only one.

[Dave 53]

If you can make it up to Buttonwillow and tracks north, let me know. Slight change of being at Buttonwillow Classic March 1/2. Very good chance of being at Laguna 92 decibel March 15/16. Will require my Laguna pipe.

I've been to Willow Springs Big and Streets, but I'm hesitant to go again because it's a long tow home to NorCal if I break down. Streets was my first track with the car and it didn't take long to figure out I needed a surge tank.
Chuckwalla is just too far away, but I hope to make it there some day.

[blomb11]

Finally closed off the gap in the front to complete the flat bottom. Next will be the rear diffuser. I want to try and create a fiberglass one. I have an appointment set to get the car properly aligned and corner balanced in two weeks. I found a small tear (3-4mm) in my right rear CV boot. I am going to see if I can patch it because I really don’t want to tear that right rear corner apart.

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[blomb11]

I dropped the car off a couple weeks ago for a proper alignment and corner balance which I thought would be straightforward. Never the case with a kit car ha. Turns out my rear wheels were loose and I had chewed up the wheel bearings and hubs. I compressed everything together initially but I didn’t install the custom brake caliper mounts. So I pulled the rear hubs and bearings apart to install everything. Turns out it is pretty well know the bearing don’t really go back together well. So I had the shop replace them since the car was already there but this ended up costing a bit more than expected and took my track day finds with it. But now I know it is done and will be safe or safer.

Next up was the alignment. My string alignment was pretty close but after more adjustment the wheels were hitting the upper trailing arm. So I got some 12mm and 15mm spacers to try and fix it but the whole rear end seems to be out of whack. The shop didn’t want to continue until I verify the rear is square and the links are all equal. So I took the car home and am now in the process of trying to measure and square things up. The shop mentioned the left rear protrudes more than the right so something is off. I need to make sure they put the correct spacers back when they rear assembled the rear wheel hubs and spindles. Then I can take it back for the alignment.
Good news is the car came in pretty balanced 50/50 cross weight as I had it which was cool…within a couple percent. With a little over a half tank of e85 it weighed in at 2300lbs.

Car looks good in the sun with the aero bits installed even in the best up red gel coat. Body work will come one day. Apologies for the rotated pic.
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[driveslikejehu]

wow, we're twinning, lol. I'm liking the red/black/white combo more and more. Always a hit at the cars-and-coffee
Definitely looks racy with the aero

[J R Jones]

You can be comforted realizing your axle components are light weight, contributing to a faster car. I have replaced the Subaru bits on my 818 with an Acura TL V6/six speed. The uprights are 15lb cast iron and the lower control arms are 14.5lb cast iron with no adjustment provisions. Honda phylosophy is if it does not align, something is worn or bent, find it. I am fabricating tubeular LCA from chrome moly with rod end adjuster pivots.
The Acura uprights had 241K miles and were rusty so I took them apart for sand blast. The bearings were original and OK, but I replaced them. The bearings are more than twice as large as the Subarus and the axles twice as big. The upper control arms are stamped steel and as light as they can be.
jim

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[blomb11]

@JR those LCA look good!

@driveslikejehu
What are the lengths of your upper and lower trailing arms? If you don’t mind measuring them. I am trying to figure out what is off with my rear suspension. Based on the measurements below I need to make them the same. Too many adjustment points haha.

Left upper trailing:18.5”
Left lower trailing:20.25”

Right upper trailing:18.875”
Right lower trailing:20”

[driveslikejehu]

@driveslikejehu
What are the lengths of your upper and lower trailing arms? If you don’t mind measuring them.

My lower lateral links are at 16.5"; which is more than the original value I saw of 16.125". Based on feedback from Wayne Preston (I think there is a good post on this somewhere) I set the RCP lower trailing arm at 20.375". Use the upper trailing link to get the lat links parallel.
It'll take me a day or so to get the current measurements...
Message me if you need more detail

[blomb11]

Thanks this is super helpful!

So I set up a string box around the car to try and get good measurements. I know the front is good so I used the center of the wheels in the front but measured from the suspension pickup points in the rear. Based on this I found the trailing links to be different and the left side is 0.25” extended compared to the right.

LR upper trailing: 18.5”
LR lower trailing: 20.25”
LR lower lateral links (fwd/aft): 15.875” / 16”
LR upper link: 9.75”

RR upper trailing: 18.875”
RR lower trailing: 20”
RR lower lateral links (fwd/aft): 15.625” / 16”
RR upper link: 9.875”

I don’t think there is a way to reduce the 0.25” left rear wheel bias. I can correct the trailing arm lengths to be equal. Could I run different wheel spacers like a 10mm and 15mm to offset the wheels to make up the 0.25” delta? Seems odd to do that but I also think you want it square.

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[driveslikejehu]

I don't know if you said why the lateral links are different? that's .25" there. I have STi trans, axles and hubs, I don't remember what yours is.
I would set the lateral lengths all the same, set the lower trailing arms and start again.
Just FYI, when I wanted to measure all the suspension pick up points, I set up a centerline, drawn on the garage floor, with it up on jackstands. I think using the frame corners is the only way to determine where everything is. I then used L squares, plumb bobs and laser to measure everything X and Y. Otherwise, everything keeps moving.

[blomb11]

Yes there is the 0.25" on the trailing arms so I will correct that. I should have included I also have 0.25" outboard left rear bias. So the left rear wheel sticks out 0.25" more that the right. I have a Legacy JDM 6spd (similar to STI), WRX axles, and WRX spindles/hubs.

[blomb11]

I spent most of the day Friday adjusting my rear suspension. I ended up with the lower trailing arms at 20” because of where the recess is on the VCP lowering trailing arms. I then adjusted the upper trailing arm until the lower lateral links were level. Then I put them at 0.1 degrees aft down based on an old set up post from Hindsight. Touched up the toe to be -0.25” and -2 deg camber. I kept the 15mm spacers on the make sure everything clears. I could offset the aft link of the upper trailing arm against the spindle and then I could probably go back to the 12mm or maybe 10mm spacers.

Would it be back to offset the end of the trailing arm? It won’t be able to rotate so not sure if that’s a show stopper or not.

I can drive the car again and get another appointment to finish the corner balance and alignment.

[blomb11]

Welp I pulled the trigger and am heading to Streets of Willow on Saturday for my first outing. I will be crawling through the car this week checking nuts/bolts and topping off fluids. Saturday they are having a Subie Jam competition so I will see if they will allow an 818R. I also want to focus on more of a shakedown and learning how to handle the car so I do not expect to be competitive since I need seat time. I am going with my brother in law and his 2013 full race WRX wagon. It will be fun just to get back to the track!

[Hobby Racer]

Good luck! I'm finally at a stage with my 818R that I can focus on driving and not wrenching so much.

[driveslikejehu]

It will be fun just to get back to the track!
Enjoy! Congrats on getting it track ready; a big milestone.

[Dave 53]

Welp I pulled the trigger and am heading to Streets of Willow on Saturday for my first outing. I will be crawling through the car this week checking nuts/bolts and topping off fluids. Saturday they are having a Subie Jam competition so I will see if they will allow an 818R. I also want to focus on more of a shakedown and learning how to handle the car so I do not expect to be competitive since I need seat time. I am going with my brother in law and his 2013 full race WRX wagon. It will be fun just to get back to the track!

Streets was my 818's first track day. Didn't take long to figure out I needed a surge tank. Have fun!

[Rob T]

Have a Blast. Congratulations. My track always starts with standing yellow flags to allow heat into the tires and brakes. Cold tires along with cold air (big turbo boost), can lead to sudden 180 degree direction changes (trust me, I know....) I can't wait to hear your report. I'll be at Carolina Motorsports Park tomorrow. They have a Test and Tune day organized by engine size. I'll be in the <3.0liter group, which should be awesome.

[blomb11]

Thanks all! There are so many settings and variables to adjust on this car ha. I will try to remind myself I need seat time and to learn the feel of this car and not look at the times. The last track car I had was an AWD STI so this should be quite different at speed. I will provide a post track report but should be a nice sunny and 80 deg day in the CA desert.

[blomb11]

I survived my first track event with lessons learned and can’t wait to get back out. I remember reading on hear about the need for a clutch stop. Well I learned that the hard way on track. Luckily the first two sessions when it happened I was able to coast to the pit area but the last and third time was mid track and caused a black flag to get towed off oops. The first time it happened was coming over the blind chicane the pedal just went to the floor. I was able to reset the slave cylinder pinger and bleed the line to reset it each time. So I really only got to turn a couple laps and full speed, but man this car is quick. Way more car than driver but I will learn with more seat time. The car really sticks to the ground especially with the RT660 tires and brakes hard. I was braking too early but I was still trying to feel it out. Definitely need a lot more seat time but I learned a lot and was able to drive the car back into the trailer. Successful first shake down in track!

Sorry you have to turn your head haha forgot to take the pics the right way on my phone.

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[driveslikejehu]

Glad it went (mostly) well. Yeah, those tires seem about perfect for this car.

[blomb11]

Big changes are coming for me and my family. I accepted a new job in Rochester NY so we will be moving soon. Lots of moving pieces. I will have to link up with Hobby Racer now at Watkins Glen when I get settled.

[driveslikejehu]

Congrats on the new job! We moved a few times for work; I always thought it was worth it, but it's a lot.
If you need a place to crash or park overnight in the Chicago area, give me a shout.

[Hobby Racer]

Big changes are coming for me and my family. I accepted a new job in Rochester NY so we will be moving soon. Lots of moving pieces. I will have to link up with Hobby Racer now at Watkins Glen when I get settled.

When your settled drop me a message and we can connect. Your going to LOVE Watkins Glen, it's an amazing track!

[blomb11]

Car was loaded up and is now on its way to our new home in NY. Maybe I can squeeze in a day at Watkins Glen before the end of season we will see!

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[Hobby Racer]

Maybe I can squeeze in a day at Watkins Glen before the end of season we will see!


If you can swing it, I run with a group called Trackmasters (https://trackmasters.com/). They are running 2 upcoming events. Sept 17-18 and Oct 8-9. I'll be at both those events.

They are a great group and you get a ton of track time in the open track group, like 4+ hours per day!

[blomb11]

Awesome thanks for the tip! I will see what I can swing with how quickly we get settled. I still need to fab my clutch stop but that should take too long.

[blomb11]

Well it took a little longer to get settled and get everyone into their routines. The garage was the last thing to get sorted but it is pretty close to be done. I got the car out and drove a few miles around eastern Rochester two weekends ago. I put the car up on jack stands last night and am taking the panels off to drain out all of the water in the cooling lines and pump out the fuel to winterize the car. My planned winter projects will be clutch stop, start the body work to get it ready to vinyl wrapping, and if I can get to it making a rear diffuser.

[Hobby Racer]

Well it took a little longer to get settled and get everyone into their routines. The garage was the last thing to get sorted but it is pretty close to be done. I got the car out and drove a few miles around eastern Rochester two weekends ago. I put the car up on jack stands last night and am taking the panels off to drain out all of the water in the cooling lines and pump out the fuel to winterize the car. My planned winter projects will be clutch stop, start the body work to get it ready to vinyl wrapping, and if I can get to it making a rear diffuser.

Always so many things to do! I'm contemplating making a one piece rear diffuser this winter also.