An fittings for ac

[Svtfreak]

I remember finding somewhere, fittings that assembled to an hose but had the o ring ac style swivel end. But I can’t seem to find it now. I remember seeing ac hose and all that you can assemble at home and it all matches my braided black hose everywhere else. I need two ends for the heater hose connections, and, of course, will need all ac fittings and hose. But, I can’t, for the life it me, find it again. Anyone remember or ever seen anything like that?

[FF33rod]

Sounds like the Eaton Aeroquip fittings and braided hose that I used.

Steve

[progmgr1]

Here are a couple of AC fitting vendors I saved from previous posts:
http://coldhose.com/catalog/product/view/id/1484/s/ford-dks-17ds-fs18-fs20-suction-and-discharge-block-fittings/category/39/ Has good diagrams on home page about fitting types, etc. Another inexpensive source: http://www.acpartsguys.com/hose_fittings__ports.

Don't understand exactly what you are looking for, but these may be places to search...

Keith HR #894

[Svtfreak]

Thanks guys. I’ll check that out.

Keith, I have, for example, my heater lines are AN 10 at the motor, an10 braided hose, but I need the ac style oring fittings at the firewall. I though I had found fittings that assembled like an but had oring ends but now all I’ve found is the crimp style. Maybe the links above will guide me. I’ll be checking them later on. Mommas fone and I got all 3 kids tonight lol.

[Alan_C]

On my restomod, I need to do something for the heater hose connections. I had not considered AN fittings. If I can find a large compression type adapter to go from aluminum hardline to an AN fitting, that would be great. Lots of stuff near the firewall for the Coyote. AN fittings and hose would allow me to make custom heater hoses to route as needed. Thanks for the idea, saves me trying to couple rubber hose to do the job.
Too bad the Motorcraft bypass valve is plastic. It appears I will still need small hose couplings to connect there.

[Svtfreak]

Alan, yeah, that stupid heater bypass valve I haven’t tackled yet either. I think it will go inside the car so it’s hidden. They do make little an looking covers for worm clamps but I only have one place with no other option so far.

For your heater hoses, lethal performance sells the an style inserts for the coolant hoses to the block. You unbolt the stock heater nipple, swap it with this fitting which has oring an threads, select your size an (I’m using 10 since that’s what’s at the firewall) and go from there. Very easy. Its the other end (and eventually ac lines, I want them in all black to match) where I’m having trouble finding fittings. I’m not against a black crimp on style but really rather it all match.

[Alan_C]

Alan, yeah, that stupid heater bypass valve I haven’t tackled yet either. I think it will go inside the car so it’s hidden. They do make little an looking covers for worm clamps but I only have one place with no other option so far.

For your heater hoses, lethal performance sells the an style inserts for the coolant hoses to the block. You unbolt the stock heater nipple, swap it with this fitting which has oring an threads, select your size an (I’m using 10 since that’s what’s at the firewall) and go from there. Very easy. Its the other end (and eventually ac lines, I want them in all black to match) where I’m having trouble finding fittings. I’m not against a black crimp on style but really rather it all match.

The hoses at the block are far larger than the heater hardlines on the Vintage Air evaporator as well as the bypass valve. So somewhere, reducers are going to have to be introduced. I was thinking about just cutting the firewall connectors off the OEM hoses and insert hose barb to male AN fittings. It may be possible to find a hose barb to AN fitting where the male AN side is an appropriate size for the heater bypass valve. I removed the heater hardlines from the evaporator while test fitting. I need to get the heater hardlines and the bypass valve on the bench and see what I have got to work with.

I recall reading somewhere if a heater is not used, a reducer is required in the path between the two OEM hoses. The bypass valve with its smaller diameter connections, should provide the required restriction.

Very little of my AC lines will be visible as I am running the -6 and -10 lines in the PS fender well along with the controls pack harness. The small sections of AC hose from the compressor, condenser, and bulkhead fittings to the fenderwell will be visible.

A thought, could you find a braided sleeve to wrap the AC lines with? Likely not an exact match to your existing hoses, but better looking than the rubber AC lines.

Alan

[progmgr1]

A more experienced builder than I once told me to avoid having the heater bypass valve inside the cockpit. Apparently failures are not unknown, and when they occur you have hot coolant spraying all over the place. That builder's wife demanded that the valve be moved to the engine compartment before she would ride in the car again. Needless to say, he moved it the next day. Just a word to the wise...
Keith HR #894

[Svtfreak]

A more experienced builder than I once told me to avoid having the heater bypass valve inside the cockpit. Apparently failures are not unknown, and when they occur you have hot coolant spraying all over the place. That builder's wife demanded that the valve be moved to the engine compartment before she would ride in the car again. Needless to say, he moved it the next day. Just a word to the wise...
Keith HR #894

Keith, I’ve thought a lot about that. I think you’re right also. Still tossing that around in my head. I actually am, right now, considering running the ffr supplied heater valve and drill a tiny tiny hole through the ball to let steam escape. If small enough it should work but not heat things up too much. Everyone I know who just runs it hasn’t had trouble. I just can’t think where to run that ugly 4 port thing lol.

[Svtfreak]

The hoses at the block are far larger than the heater hardlines on the Vintage Air evaporator as well as the bypass valve. So somewhere, reducers are going to have to be introduced. I was thinking about just cutting the firewall connectors off the OEM hoses and insert hose barb to male AN fittings. It may be possible to find a hose barb to AN fitting where the male AN side is an appropriate size for the heater bypass valve. I removed the heater hardlines from the evaporator while test fitting. I need to get the heater hardlines and the bypass valve on the bench and see what I have got to work with.

I recall reading somewhere if a heater is not used, a reducer is required in the path between the two OEM hoses. The bypass valve with its smaller diameter connections, should provide the required restriction.

Very little of my AC lines will be visible as I am running the -6 and -10 lines in the PS fender well along with the controls pack harness. The small sections of AC hose from the compressor, condenser, and bulkhead fittings to the fenderwell will be visible.

A thought, could you find a braided sleeve to wrap the AC lines with? Likely not an exact match to your existing hoses, but better looking than the rubber AC lines.

Alan

Alan, again, go check out lethal performance. They have fittings that replace the nipples on the block (they are just held in my a pinch plate and seal with o rings) with a SNPT threaded port that you can put any size -an fittings in. I selected -10 which matches the firewall bulkhead size so no reducers will be necessary. I just need to find a -10 fitting for the firewall end that has the oring style. I did find some inserts that go into the oring male end (firewall side) and a standard an seals to it. It had 100% positive reviews so for heater lines that may be the ticket.

On ac lines, after more research, it seems the nylon braided and assemble yourself ac lines do not have a good reputation. I think I will do exactly what you are thinking (I have some and already played with it) and do it with the standard ac hoses and fittings and run the braided looking sheild on it with some shrink wrap on each end to dress it up. The silver ac fittings will be the only thing looking out of place and, frankly, I doubt anyone noticed as only the firewall end ones will stand out. I think this is my plan forward now, thanks for the advice.

Tomorrow, my block heater nipple replacements should be here and I got -16 an fittings for the integooler also. If the lethal package arrives, I’m gonna pull the blower off (again, #6 now lol) and install all those fittings and see what ends I need to get out from under the blower. Then I’ll order all my hoses to finish that up. Soon as I get those block fittings in, I’ll post for you. Should look real real slick when done.

Here’s the fittings. They are gen 1/2 specific amd you can order them with the an hose male adapter of the size you want.

https://www.lethalperformance.com/billet-pro-shop-en011-2011-2020-coyote-voodoo-front-cylinder-head-coolant-fittings.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAnKeCBhDPARIsAFDTLTKQhg I8PODs85da3Xy1FI5Q5OzgM5Zwd9nZQuTMOuuAtUd3LcDqyVIa AnREEALw_wcB

[Alan_C]

On the Vintage Mustang Forum I was looking at one of the threads I am following and noticed that this guy used a braided AC line in the fender well. I also notice he did not have braid on the line in the engine compartment. So I am not sure if the line was factory braided or it is just a sleeve over normal AC hose. Given that it might be a possible lead on the type of hose you are looking for?

https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/66-convertible-restomod.1184208/page-5#post-10462235

[Svtfreak]

Thanks Alan. If you look at the left side of the photo, where it goes into the firewall fitting, you can see it is a sleeve. But if it’s that close to being indiscernible, then it’s exactly what I’m going to do. Only the very most detail oriented people who’ve built will notice. And, in my area, that’s only about 5 folks lol. And if they don’t like it, oh well hah!

[AJT '33]

If your looking for quality AN fittings I would send you to Racetronix (https://www.racetronix.biz/c/hose-fittings-adapters-accessories/adapters-bulkheads-more/c319), I purchased all my fittings (and some tools) there and they have been great. I bought my through firewall fittings there as well for the routing of my heater piping.
144469 144470
Unfortunately I don't have good pictures of that area, too hidden.