JB in NOVA's MK4 build : First overnight road trip!

[BadAsp427]

Congratulations.. That is always a exciting milestone.

[jrcuz]

Great video and good deal that Blue Print took care of your problem.
JR

[460.465USMC]

Very cool, JB! Great success and getting all of the details right!

[jiriza84641]

congrats. I know that was a fun ride!

[Fman]

Just watched you go-kart vid again, engine sounds so healthy and ready to rip!:cool: looking forward to seeing your car completed.

[John Ibele]

Sounds fantastic, and thanks for taking all the rest of us along for the ride!

[nucjd19]

Hey JB. Just wanted to say thank you. I am a week into my build and I have already corrected some " gotchas" that you documented very well including those irritating brake anti chatter clips and shims for the brake caliper mounting bracket on the passenger side. Also I mocked up my reservoir bracket and used your helpful link. just wanted you to know I appreciate your documentation :)

[JB in NOVA]

Well, things have been very busy at work since early November, but I finally had time this week to get back to the Roadster project. I decided to carpet the trunk before putting the body on. Following the advice of many on this forum, I used a non-backed, light-weight trunk liner, which I purchased here: https://jjsupply.com/collections/trunk-liner/products/trunkliner-carpet

I believe this is the same material that is used for speaker boxes, etc., but it works well as a trunk liner. First, I inserted rivnuts to hold the fuel-tank access panels:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139404&d=1608225973 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139407&d=1608226127

Then, using 3M Super 77 spray adhesive (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFA2EEE), I carpeted the trunk area:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139405&d=1608226042

And the cubby area:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139406&d=1608226060

I’m generally happy with how it turned out, especially considering that most imperfections will be hidden once the body is on. A couple lessons learned:

1. the spray adhesive tends to get everywhere, and it does not dry “clear” – it dries with a milky white color. So be sure to mask areas that you don’t want to get sprayed.
2. Do not attempt to drill a hole through sheet metal once the carpet is glued on. The drill bit will grab and twirl the carpet, essentially ruining it. Don’t ask how I know. :o

[jrcuz]

Well, things have been very busy at work since early November, but I finally had time this week to get back to the Roadster project. I decided to carpet the trunk before putting the body on. Following the advice of many on this forum, I used a non-backed, light-weight trunk liner, which I purchased here: https://jjsupply.com/collections/trunk-liner/products/trunkliner-carpet

I believe this is the same material that is used for speaker boxes, etc., but it works well as a trunk liner. First, I inserted rivnuts to hold the fuel-tank access panels:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139404&d=1608225973 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139407&d=1608226127

Then, using 3M Super 77 spray adhesive (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFA2EEE), I carpeted the trunk area:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139405&d=1608226042

And the cubby area:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139406&d=1608226060

I’m generally happy with how it turned out, especially considering that most imperfections will be hidden once the body is on. A couple lessons learned:

1. the spray adhesive tends to get everywhere, and it does not dry “clear” – it dries with a milky white color. So be sure to mask areas that you don’t want to get sprayed.
2. Do not attempt to drill a hole through sheet metal once the carpet is glued on. The drill bit will grab and twirl the carpet, essentially ruining it. Don’t ask how I know. :o

Thanks for this post JB, I had been undecided on trunk carpet but I think I've decided to carpet it now. Me and another builder/owner put the body bac kon just this past Sat. so I'll plan to do it next time we remove the body. How many yards did it require?
JR

[JB in NOVA]

Once again thank you for posting these. Your build has been the main one I have been watching as I work through mine because they are so close. One question I had was what nutserts did you use? Did you have any issues with it distorting the aluminum? I have never used them before but there is a couple of areas I am thinking of using them.

rthomas98, I bought this rivnut/nutsert tool on amazon, which came with a bunch of rivnuts in different sizes: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BVMBP5P. It is metric, which isn't a particular problem if you have a good hardware store nearby with a good selection of metric machine screws. But in retrospect, I wish I had bought an SAE tool like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W2006-Riveting-Included/dp/B01M08ERVF/

Anyway, for my trunk panels, I used the M5 rivnuts, and they worked fine. I have had no problem with the aluminum buckling. Before I started using the tool, I tested it several times on scrap aluminum until I got the hang of it. Since then, I've had no problems with it at all.

Good luck!

[JB in NOVA]

Thanks for this post JB, I had been undecided on trunk carpet but I think I've decided to carpet it now. Me and another builder/owner put the body bac kon just this past Sat. so I'll plan to do it next time we remove the body. How many yards did it require?
JR

Jrcuz, I don't remember precisely how much I ordered, but I'm pretty sure it was 5 yards. That was enough to do the entire trunk (including the Breeze drop trunk mod) and cubby area with some left over. The material is not terribly expensive ($6.25 per yard), so maybe order a bit extra if you're unsure. Good luck!

[bldr.rob]

Looks awesome! Thanks for the great detail.

[460.465USMC]

Hi JB,

Thanks for sharing what you used for the trunk carpet. I haven't yet run across the forum carpet advice you mentioned. Is there an issue with the supplied trunk carpet, so that's why you bought other carpet? Sorry for the dumb question, but just wanted to make sure I understand any carpet issues I may encounter. Thanks!

[JB in NOVA]

Hi JB,

Thanks for sharing what you used for the trunk carpet. I haven't yet run across the forum carpet advice you mentioned. Is there an issue with the supplied trunk carpet, so that's why you bought other carpet? Sorry for the dumb question, but just wanted to make sure I understand any carpet issues I may encounter. Thanks!

Chris, I honestly hadn't even noticed that my kit included trunk carpeting (so, certainly not a dumb question on your part). But I just checked, and you're right -- it does (not sure that was the case with older kits). Anyway, with my drop trunk mod, cubby mod, and the addition of extended interior trunk sidewalls, I'm not sure the FFR carpeting would have worked for me. But I think it would be a good idea to test fit the FFR-supplied carpeting to see if it will work for you. I will say, though, that the thinner trunk-lining material has a different look and feel than the thicker FFR carpeting, so that's another thing to consider. Just a matter of personal preference.

[jrcuz]

JB, if you're interested in selling your trunk carpeting I'd be interested. I'm in no hurry to to do the trunk since the body is on right now.
Thanks, JR

[JB in NOVA]

After some much needed R&R with the family, I’m finally getting back to the Roadster project. At this point, I’m trying to take care of various odds and ends before I test fit the body. First, I closed up the hole for the shifter in the tunnel top. I found the FFR-supplied plate did not quite fit for some reason, so I fashioned my own and attached with rivets:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140371&d=1609899814

I know from others’ threads that these rivets might be problematic if I decide to cover the tunnel with leather, so I’m leaving the top unattached at this point in case I decide to replace the whole thing with a FFMetal version. Of course, that would require me to actually make a decision about color and trim, which I seem totally incapable of doing:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140372&d=1609899836

I thought building a car was hard -- choosing exterior and interior colors is impossible!!

Next, I installed the driver’s side exterior footbox panel, pre-insulating it before riveting it on:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140373&d=1609899854

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140374&d=1609899868

I’m going to leave the top pieces unattached until after I test fit the body. Incidentally, the Swiss-cheese look at the bottom of the panel is the result of me pre-drilling holes 8 months ago without realizing that the bottom of the panel tucks inside the floor pan, where those holes are hidden and inaccessible. I created new holes once everything was mated up properly. Not a huge deal, but still a learning experience.

The only other thing I've managed to do is take care of an annoying drip from my coolant reservoir. No amount of tightening the threaded ports at the bottom seemed to be doing the trick, so I removed the reservoir, put it a vice, and tightened the inlet and drain ports with a bit more leverage. Incidentally, I found it helpful to use two pieces of wood on either side of the oval boss at the bottom of the reservoir to hold it in place without scratching the chrome finish:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140375&d=1609899887

This did the trick – no more coolant drips on my garage floor!

[jrcuz]

Looks great JB. I initially covered my tunnel top with the same felt/vinyl I covered my dash with then the plate and rivets showed up. I went with the FFMetal piece. I haven't covered it with the felt/vinyl yet having just finished cutting the holes for the shifter, cup holders and seat heater switches.
JR

[JB in NOVA]

My focus this weekend was getting the body prepped and test-fitted on the chassis. First, I flipped the body over and did a light sanding with a 60-grit block to knock off loose molding residue and strings. I also rounded all the sharp edges to minimize damage to the bulb seal. I vacuumed and wiped everything down with acetone. Then I masked the edges and applied two coats of bedliner (three in the wheel wells). I used this product:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140553&d=1610319969

This product is very thick and lumpy. The instructions say to stir with a paint stick, but I ended up using a drill-powered paint stirrer. Otherwise, the application was fairly straight-forward. A gallon was much more than I needed. Here is the result:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140554&d=1610319983

Because the fiberglass is textured, I did notice a bit of bleed through under the tape, so make sure to leave a good gap if you want to keep the bedliner away from the edges (which I understand is important for body prep and painting):

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140555&d=1610320001

Next, I pressed bulb seal onto the firewall, trunk sides and rear floor, and the lower portions of the rear bulkhead wall, and covered everything with plastic to avoid scraping:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140556&d=1610320020

Finally, with the help of my wife and daughter and a friend, we got the body onto the chassis. I lined it up with the front and rear quick jacks and tightened everything down. The fit looks okay, although I will have to make a few adjustments before the final fit. The location of the horn interfered with the mounting bracket for the left, front quick jack, so that will have to be moved back an inch or so. Also, it looks like I need to cut back some of the bulb seal on the shoulders of the rear cockpit wall to get the rear of the body to sit down a fraction of an inch more. But otherwise, the fit was pretty good.

Here’s #9822 with the body on for the first time in nine months:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140557&d=1610320043

Progress continues . . .

[jrcuz]

Looks good JB. I remember flipping mine over in my backyard. IO used the Duplicolor bed liner also. I don't know why I bought 1 gal. and 1 qt. and had quite a bit of the gal. left over. I'll PM you about your trunk carpet.
JR

[egchewy79]

My focus this weekend was getting the body prepped and test-fitted on the chassis. First, I flipped the body over and did a light sanding with a 60-grit block to knock off loose molding residue and strings. I also rounded all the sharp edges to minimize damage to the bulb seal. I vacuumed and wiped everything down with acetone. Then I masked the edges and applied two coats of bedliner (three in the wheel wells). I used this product:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140553&d=1610319969

This product is very thick and lumpy. The instructions say to stir with a paint stick, but I ended up using a drill-powered paint stirrer. Otherwise, the application was fairly straight-forward. A gallon was much more than I needed. Here is the result:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140554&d=1610319983

Because the fiberglass is textured, I did notice a bit of bleed through under the tape, so make sure to leave a good gap if you want to keep the bedliner away from the edges (which I understand is important for body prep and painting):

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140555&d=1610320001

Next, I pressed bulb seal onto the firewall, trunk sides and rear floor, and the lower portions of the rear bulkhead wall, and covered everything with plastic to avoid scraping:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140556&d=1610320020

Finally, with the help of my wife and daughter and a friend, we got the body onto the chassis. I lined it up with the front and rear quick jacks and tightened everything down. The fit looks okay, although I will have to make a few adjustments before the final fit. The location of the horn interfered with the mounting bracket for the left, front quick jack, so that will have to be moved back an inch or so. Also, it looks like I need to cut back some of the bulb seal on the shoulders of the rear cockpit wall to get the rear of the body to sit down a fraction of an inch more. But otherwise, the fit was pretty good.

Here’s #9822 with the body on for the first time in nine months:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140557&d=1610320043

Progress continues . . .

I used the same stuff. It goes on like runny cottage cheese

[460.465USMC]

Great progress, JB! I bet it was great to see it with the body on.

[BadAsp427]

Congrats, Looking good and it always feels so good to stand back and look at a "CAR" vs the go-cart.

[Fman]

Looking good! Did you decide on a painter yet?

[JB in NOVA]

Looking good! Did you decide on a painter yet?

Thanks. Yes, I'm planning to ship the car to Spotlight Custom Cars in Georgia for prep and paint. But first I plan to complete the car in gelcoat, get it registered, and put a few miles on it to shake out any problems.

That's the plan anyway . . .

[John Ibele]

Looks great, JB.

[jrcuz]

Sent you a PM
JR

[Blitzboy54]

Thanks. Yes, I'm planning to ship the car to Spotlight Custom Cars in Georgia for prep and paint. But first I plan to complete the car in gelcoat, get it registered, and put a few miles on it to shake out any problems.

That's the plan anyway . . .

i think that is what i want to do as well. I'm hoping to get a season out of it to enjoy and work out the bugs. Then ship it off for body and paint over the winter.

Your build is great.

[RJD]

Thanks. Yes, I'm planning to ship the car to Spotlight Custom Cars in Georgia for prep and paint. But first I plan to complete the car in gelcoat, get it registered, and put a few miles on it to shake out any problems.

That's the plan anyway . . .


Good call.

[JB in NOVA]

Work has been insane for the past several weeks, but I finally got back in the garage this weekend. After test-fitting the body a few weeks ago, I removed it and trimmed some areas to improve the fit. On the body, I removed about ¼ inch from the front and rear lips of the cockpit:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142212&d=1612734384

On the chassis, I trimmed about 5/8” from the rear of the trunk floor so that the body could move forward a bit more.

Next, I completed the driver’s side footbox. I used rivnuts on the access panel, as many have suggested:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142213&d=1612734596

I relocated the horns (moved them back about an inch) because they had interfered with the bracket for the driver’s side quick jack. And I secured the wiring for the front PS lights to the bottom of the radiator shroud to keep it up and out of the way:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142214&d=1612734621

With all that done, I put the body back on this morning (with some help from my wife and son). And here she is again:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142217&d=1612734755

By the way, I am certainly glad I did the “Kleiner mod” for the rear quick jacks. From what I can tell, if you have a dropped trunk like I do, there is no other way to mount the rear quick jacks. Anyway, the mod worked perfectly for me. For the threaded portion, I used 7/16 x 6 inch threaded rods: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDU710K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, which seemed to work well:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142216&d=1612734737

Next I'll be tackling the hood, trunk, and doors . . .

[jrcuz]

Looks great JB, hope you got the PM I sent you. We got mine down to Whitby Motorcars this past Fri. now the wait begins.
JR

[JB in NOVA]

Not a lot of time in the garage lately (owing to a combination of work and this frigid weather), but I did manage to complete one small task I’d been putting off for a while. I wanted to create some sort of trim piece to finish off the carpeted edge around the drop trunk, but I couldn’t figure out how to do it. My first thought was to use aluminum or steel angle stock as I’ve seen others do, so I headed off to the hardware store to buy the materials. While I was there, I came across some 3/4-inch PVC corner molding that looked promising. I think this is it: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/alexandria-moulding-3-4-inch-x-3-4-inch-x-8-ft-pvc-exterior-corner/1000421398

I cut segments for each side using a miter saw, then I notched spaces to accommodate the frame tubes that run across the opening of the drop trunk. Next, I assembled the pieces into “picture frame” using wood blocks to keep everything square:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143203&d=1613966394

I used DAP all-purpose adhesive (a "superglue" type product), which worked great on the PVC material:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143204&d=1613966458

Finally, I painted the frame black and pressed it into place:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143205&d=1613966473

I think it blends nicely with the exposed frame tubes, but the best part is that it fits snuggly into place without the need for any screws or glue. I was dreading having to drill screw holes through the carpet because (as I learned the hard way) this particular type of carpeting does not respond well to drill bits.

Anyway, I’m glad to have this small detail behind me. My next task is going to be fitting the hood, trunk, and doors – a much bigger challenge!

[jiriza84641]

Damn great idea!

[jrcuz]

That worked great, I like the "simple" solutions that turn out perfect.
JR

[JB in NOVA]

I’ve spent the last couple days working on the hood and hinges. Having read many forum posts about this process, I expected it to be tedious and a bit frustrating . . . and it was. To clarify, my only goal here was to get the hood centered and the hood hinges functional – I plan to leave the rest to the bodywork pros.

First, I removed about 1/8 inch from the sides and just a tiny bit from the front so the hood would fit into the hole with plenty of material still left for the bodywork guys to gap and smooth out:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143306&d=1614134808

I primed and painted the steel parts and then assembled the left and right hinge assemblies per the FFR instructions. But after tightening all the lock nuts, it still seemed rickety, so I added extra washers to tighten some of the joints up (but not so much as to make them stiff). You can see some of the doubled-up washers in this picture:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143307&d=1614134828

I riveted the mounting brackets to the hood using the pre-drilled holes (they needed to be drilled out a bit to match the holes in the bracket). For now, I only put in two rivets for each bracket (per the FFR manual).

Then it was time for the “fun” part. With the car on jacks and front tires removed, I positioned the hood so it was centered, put weights on it to hold it in place, then crawled underneath to tighten the 4 carriage bolts on each hinge that control forward-backward and left-right adjustment. I got “close” on my first try, but after that, every adjustment I made seemed to make things worse. Finally, after 5 or 6 iterations, I got a result I can live with:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143308&d=1614134938

It is certainly not perfect – there are raised corners like this one:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143310&d=1614135056

But I’m hopeful the bodywork gurus will know how to deal with those. Anyway, I’m happy to have this step completed:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143309&d=1614135032

Progress continues . . .

[jrcuz]

I never attempted fitting the hood to the opening, couldn't talk myself into doing it. I did paint the hinges and I did away with the wavy washers and replaced them with washers that Jeff Miller "dabat" recommended.
I'll let Whitby's do all of the fitting. I did basic fitting of the doors and trunk lid.
JR

[egchewy79]

mine sits up a bit at the front corners as well. there are also 2 bolts/nuts that adjust the height of the hinge on either side. Mine fit a bit better after loosening those, but i'm going to let the body/paint gurus do the final adjustments. the trunk for me was more frustrating as you can't access those bolts unless you drill a hole in the trunk side panel and use a long socket extension like Mike Everson reported. He used 2 cell phones, one inside the trunk, and facetimed the other phone to see where the socket was going. I'm thinking of doing the same but with a borescope that attaches to my cellphone.

[JB in NOVA]

Today I finished rough-installing the hood and trunk. On the hood, I installed the hood handles and associated hardware. I followed the FFR instructions for the most part, with a few lessons learned. First, the FFR manual instructs to drill 5/8 inch holes through the hood for the handles. I didn’t have a straight 5/8-inch bit, and I was really nervous about using a “paddle” type bit because it looked like it would do a lot of damage to the fiberglass. So I purchased a set of step-bits on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0177PN6SI/ ). Honestly, I wish I had bought these a long time ago! I found that a step-bit works great on fiberglass:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143507&d=1614489604

The other thing I found is that only the topside (upper) hole needs to be 5/8” to accommodate the exterior shroud surrounding the handle shaft. The hole in the underside of the hood can be ½” or less because it only needs to accommodate the shaft itself. Using the step bit (which doesn’t extend all the way through the hood) it was easy to achieve these two different diameters. I started with a small-diameter hole through the entire hood for proper orientation, then I used the step-bit on each side other to achieve the desired diameters.

The FFR manual instructs to place the handles 12-inches from the centerline of the hood, or 13-inches if you have problems with the corners sticking up. I split the difference at 12 ½ inches. I hope my bodywork guys don’t hate me for that compromise decision! The manual also instructs to "break off" the tabs on the backside of the handles with pliers. That seemed like a recipe for disaster, so I used a Dremel cutting wheel instead. Clean cut, easy-peasy, and no "breaking" of anything was necessary.

For the latch brackets, the FFR manual says to drill 7/64-inch holes to receive the stainless-steel screws, but this did not work for me. After snapping the head off one of the screws while trying to tighten it, I widened the holes to 1/8 inch, and this seemed to be a better fit. Other than that, I followed the instructions and used side-by-side bumpers, as the instructions suggest:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143509&d=1614489746

Here is my hood with the handles installed. The fit seems really solid, and I am generally happy with them:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143510&d=1614489835

Incidentally, I realized after my last post that I had the hood struts oriented in opposite directions (fair to choose from one of (a) stupidity; (b) day drinking; or (c) dementia). Now I have them pointing the same way:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143511&d=1614489863

[JB in NOVA]

For the trunk, the first thing I noticed is that the supplied hardware did not look like the hardware in the FFR manual. Not a big deal, but it appears FFR changed designs at some point – very easy to figure out how it all fits, though.

Just like with the hood, it took many, many iterations of adjusting the set bolts on the trunk hinges to get something reasonably acceptable. I ended up employing the technique suggested above (thanks egchewy79 and Mike Everson) of putting my i-phone in the trunk with the video running (and the flash on continuous) to record what happens to the set bolts when the trunk is closed and properly positioned. Then I did my best to replicate the position of the set bolts based on the video. I did this several times on both sides and eventually got to something I can live with (although definitely not perfect):

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143512&d=1614489893

The latch pin presented a couple problems. Finding the proper location and drilling a 3/16-inch hole into the fiberglass body was not a problem. But then I could not get my drill into the proper orientation to drill the corresponding hole into the chassis plate. I solved this by buying a long 3/16 drill bit from my local hardware store. It was long enough to extend through the hole in the fiberglass body and into the chassis plate. I also had to be very careful to clear away the trunk carpet to avoid “twirling,” which I’ve learned (the hard way) is a downside of the specific type of carpet I used.

The other problem with the latch pin is getting access to the opposite side to attach a nut. This has been discussed in several forum threads. With the drop-trunk mod, it is really, really hard to get your hands/fingers up underneath in this area to secure a nut. Based on some forum recommendations, I removed the fuel-sender access panel, and I was able get my fingers into the right position. In the end, though, I decided to wait to install the retaining nut because it will just cause my bodywork/paint professionals additional headache. With the pin pushed all the way through both holes and with the sleeve installed (FYI, I had to cut about ¼ inch from that sleeve to make it fit), everything seems firmly in place and the trunk latches very nicely:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143513&d=1614489914

Next up: doors and windshield . . .

[egchewy79]

Nice work. That trunk pin nut is really hard to reach.

[BadAsp427]

Nice work. That trunk pin nut is really hard to reach.

You can easily put in a nutsert for the trunk latch rod. No need to reach the nut after that.

[JB in NOVA]

I’m trying to get certain things done so I can take pictures of a “completed” car (not really, obviously), to get the Virginia registration process started. One item on the punch list was to install the windshield. The process was relatively straight-forward, except for one stupid mistake that nearly derailed everything (but luckily didn’t).

The first step was, of course, to review the forum for tips and warnings. I found this thread particularly helpful: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?33025-MK4-Windshield-Installation-Tips-Myths-and-Realities. Next, I test fitted the windshield arms to see what sort of clearance issues I was in for:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143702&d=1614830277

I found I needed to extend the pre-cut slots in the frame about ½-inch lengthwise and a bit on the width. The arms enter the body at a slight angle relative to the longitudinal axis--basically pigeon-toed--so the slots needed to be reshaped slightly to allow the proper tilt. After enlarging the body cutouts, it still felt like something was hindering the ability of the arms to reach the proper tilt, so I resolved to trim a bit off the bottom of the arms to improve clearance. That’s where my stupid mistake came in.

I only intended to trim an inch off the bottom of each arm, but at the last minute I decided to make the cut on an angle, so that the bottom of the arm would be parallel to the ground. After this, the arms did fit nicely, and I was able to achieve the proper angle. I attached the arms to the windshield and installed it for the first test fit. After dialing in the 27-inch measurement on each side, I marked the frame support holes on the arms per the instructions, and I was horrified to find that I had trimmed too much! Because of the angle I had introduced, the bottom of each arm was just at the bottom edge of the frame support hole. Yikes!

Although some curse words were involved, I’ll just skip to the happy ending. Because the frame support holes are generously large, I still had enough metal on the arms to drill and tap ½-inch holes. But, boy, was it close! Lesson learned.

As others have advised, I tapped ½-inch threaded holes in the arms instead of drilling ½-inch holes as the manual instructs:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143703&d=1614830330

This really made the installation process much easier. On the driver’s side, it is difficult to get access to the bolt locations (even after unscrewing the fuse panel), so only needing to tighten from one side really helps.

On final installation, I verified both sides were still at 27-inches from the corner of the door opening to the top screw on the windshield:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143704&d=1614830352

Then I tightened everything down slowly and carefully. I found the arms were already flush to the frame members, so I did not need to use spacers. And now I have a windshield! Progress continues . . .

[egchewy79]

congrats JB. I spent too many hours trying to bend the arms just right to match the curve of the top of the glass. I also found that the body cutouts were not really in the correct plane for the posts. make sure the body is trimmed away from the posts so there's no contact.

[JB in NOVA]

My journey toward a “registerable vehicle” continues. As a reminder, my primary goal at this point is to get my car registered in VA so I can legally drive it in gel-coat, so that I can shake out whatever mechanical/electrical/plumbing issues there are going to be before I send the car to be prepped and painted. Basically, I know there are going to be issues (as an avid forum reader, I get it . . . there will be problems). If possible, though, I’d like to solve them now, before painting, rather than later.

One task I completed this week is to widen the body cutouts for the side pipes. Nothing unusual to report. The driver’s side (pictured below) needed some trimming on the front side, whereas the passenger’s side needed some trimming on the back side (but nothing extreme on either side).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143802&d=1614923962

The pipes are still close to the body, but I don’t see any cause for concern (at this point) based on others' comments in the forum. Anyway, I expect my bodywork pros will get this zeroed in precisely.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143803&d=1614924008

I still need to install the mounting brackets for the side pipes, and I know that’s not a trivial task. But for “photo op” purposes (i.e., for registration), I’m fine going without brackets for now.

[JB in NOVA]

The other thing I did this week was install the headlights, parking lights, and tail lights. I really enjoyed this process because it showed the project was finally nearing completion. As my dad always says (he’s a home-improvement guy), the best part of any bathroom remodel is installing the towel racks and toilet-paper holders, because they look great and you know you’re almost done!

For the headlights, I chose Lucas “tri-bar” replicas because I think they look sharp and period-correct:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143804&d=1614924081

I bought them here: https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Tri-bar-Replica-Headlamps-54520293/dp/B01LFP2O0C The physical products say “Made in England,” although I have my doubts. Anyway, they fit fine with the FFR-supplied mounting hardware. I had to bend one mounting tab just a bit to accommodate the Lucas lights, but really no big deal. Surprisingly, these Lucas replicas fit very well with the FFR hardware.

Taking the advice of many builders before me, I used Weather-Pack connectors for all the lighting connections. I “rented/bought” the crimping tool and hardware from Mike Everson. (The “rent-to-buy” option is explained on his website). If you’ve never made Weather-Pack connectors before, it’s not a bad idea just to order everything from Mike. His kit will literally include everything you need. I watched some Youtube videos about how to do it (here’s one, but there are tons of them: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vDCH1aRnRpE).

Regarding Weather-Pack, here’s my newbie report: it’s not rocket science, but there is definitely some skill involved. It's not like crimping wiring connectors; it's more advanced than that. Practice at least five times before you do the real thing. The more you do it, the better you’ll get. Here’s my first one:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143805&d=1614924117

Another thing I learned is that if you use Weather-Pack connectors, you'll need to expand the pre-drilled cutouts for the parking lights and the tail-lights so the connectors can pass through. Otherwise, you will force your painter to de-pin the connectors to remove the body (my guess: they won't appreciate that). Again, no big deal; I used a ¾-inch circular drill bit to expand these cut-outs, and the Weather-Pack connectors fit through just fine.

My car now has lights, and I’m thrilled:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143806&d=1614924160

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143807&d=1614924256

I was so thrilled that I took #9822 for a nighttime ride around the neighborhood -- about 4 miles in all. But now there is a new problem that I'd like some advice on. Next post . . .

[JB in NOVA]

My new problem relates to the dreaded “feedback” or “crossover” effect that many folks have struggled with on their turn signal wiring. I have the Russ Thompson VW stalk, but I don’t mean to suggest that this problem is unique to RT’s product. Having researched this issue a bit, it appears to be a problem that goes back many years and that has many potential causes.

Here are my symptoms. My RT turn signal stalk worked great until today. I had tested it many times with bulbs at every corner, and it always worked perfectly. What changed today? I installed the FFR “rectangular” LED taillights. These tail lights only have three wires: (w) ground; (b) running lights; (r) brake light/turning signal. Thus, you are required to combine the brake light wire with the turn signal wire before feeding it into the tail light. As soon as I saw this instruction, I suspected it wasn’t going to work well, and I was right.

As soon as I wired the tail lights per the instructions, my turn signals went loco. Now, regardless of whether I push the RT stalk left or right, both sides blink, and the “self-canceling” function on the stalk doesn’t work. And both left and right LED indicators on the FFR speedo gauge are continuously on. Something is definitely amiss. I’m not an electrical engineer or technician, but this seems similar to the “feedback/crossover” problem that many have reported. I know that “diodes” are often the prescribed cure, but I’m not entirely sure how to employ them here. So here are my three basic questions:

(1) Is this a feedback/crossover problem? I’m assuming so, i.e., that the turn signal voltage is crossing into the brake-signal wiring because the two wires are combined in the FFR LED brake lights, and this signal is then being transmitted to both sides. If I’m wrong about this, please let me know.
(2) If this is a feedback/crossover problem, can I solve it by inserting diodes into the circuit? I’d prefer not to dig behind the dash (although I can if necessary). Would it be sufficient to insert the diodes near the tail lights, where there is much more access?
(3) If diodes are the solution, are these diodes suitable for the task? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009XUNOVK/

Thank you in advance.

[edwardb]

My new problem relates to the dreaded “feedback” or “crossover” effect that many folks have struggled with on their turn signal wiring. I have the Russ Thompson VW stalk, but I don’t mean to suggest that this problem is unique to RT’s product. Having researched this issue a bit, it appears to be a problem that goes back many years and that has many potential causes.

Here are my symptoms. My RT turn signal stalk worked great until today. I had tested it many times with bulbs at every corner, and it always worked perfectly. What changed today? I installed the FFR “rectangular” LED taillights. These tail lights only have three wires: (w) ground; (b) running lights; (r) brake light/turning signal. Thus, you are required to combine the brake light wire with the turn signal wire before feeding it into the tail light. As soon as I saw this instruction, I suspected it wasn’t going to work well, and I was right.

As soon as I wired the tail lights per the instructions, my turn signals went loco. Now, regardless of whether I push the RT stalk left or right, both sides blink, and the “self-canceling” function on the stalk doesn’t work. And both left and right LED indicators on the FFR speedo gauge are continuously on. Something is definitely amiss. I’m not an electrical engineer or technician, but this seems similar to the “feedback/crossover” problem that many have reported. I know that “diodes” are often the prescribed cure, but I’m not entirely sure how to employ them here. So here are my three basic questions:

(1) Is this a feedback/crossover problem? I’m assuming so, i.e., that the turn signal voltage is crossing into the brake-signal wiring because the two wires are combined in the FFR LED brake lights, and this signal is then being transmitted to both sides. If I’m wrong about this, please let me know.
(2) If this is a feedback/crossover problem, can I solve it by inserting diodes into the circuit? I’d prefer not to dig behind the dash (although I can if necessary). Would it be sufficient to insert the diodes near the tail lights, where there is much more access?
(3) If diodes are the solution, are these diodes suitable for the task? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009XUNOVK/

Thank you in advance.

In order to mix wires like that you need a converter. Not diodes. Factory Five includes them now with the kit and the square rear lights. Do you have that installed? Typically used for trailers. Something like this: https://upcarparts.com/trailer-light-converter-5-to-4-wires.

[jiriza84641]

JB, As EDWARDB says you need to add the turn signal converter for the LED taillights, also in my build I needed to add two diodes to isolate the power feed when either the L or R turn signal is engaged. And it works as it should. as for the self canceling the boss mat be pressed to tight against the RT turn signal. Hope this helps.

[Fman]

JB here is the converter, plug and play.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141854&d=1612232233

[JB in NOVA]

I had a great weekend of (mostly) uninterrupted work on the car. First, I fixed the turn-signal issue I reported above. I must have missed something somewhere along the line about the need to use the signal converter with the square taillights. It’s certainly not in the FFR manual, but maybe they covered it in the build school? Anyway, thank you EdwardB and Fman for your advice! I found the converter in one of the boxes and wired it as Fman showed. It works great. I neatened up all the wiring with plastic looming and pushed everything up and out of sight, using zip ties to hold them in place. All my lights now work properly all the way around.

I also installed the roll bars. Fairly straight forward process, although I found I had to expand the FFR cutouts a bit to get them to fit. I put the roll-bar trim pieces in place but did not screw them down yet (I’m assuming this is best done once the paint is completed). And I installed the gas cap.

With all that done, I was ready to take some “completed car” photos for my VA registration package:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143909&d=1615156772

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143910&d=1615156880

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143911&d=1615156953

Obviously, there’s still a lot of work to be done, but it feels great to be at this stage. I took her out for another spin around the neighborhood, and she drives and sounds great! I can’t wait to get out on the open road to stretch her legs.

Thanks again, FFR forum, for helping me get to this point. I couldn’t have done it without you!

[nuhale]

The other thing I did this week was install the headlights, parking lights, and tail lights. I really enjoyed this process because it showed the project was finally nearing completion. As my dad always says (he’s a home-improvement guy), the best part of any bathroom remodel is installing the towel racks and toilet-paper holders, because they look great and you know you’re almost done!

For the headlights, I chose Lucas “tri-bar” replicas because I think they look sharp and period-correct:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143804&d=1614924081

I bought them here: https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Tri-bar-Replica-Headlamps-54520293/dp/B01LFP2O0C The physical products say “Made in England,” although I have my doubts. Anyway, they fit fine with the FFR-supplied mounting hardware. I had to bend one mounting tab just a bit to accommodate the Lucas lights, but really no big deal. Surprisingly, these Lucas replicas fit very well with the FFR hardware.

Taking the advice of many builders before me, I used Weather-Pack connectors for all the lighting connections. I “rented/bought” the crimping tool and hardware from Mike Everson. (The “rent-to-buy” option is explained on his website). If you’ve never made Weather-Pack connectors before, it’s not a bad idea just to order everything from Mike. His kit will literally include everything you need. I watched some Youtube videos about how to do it (here’s one, but there are tons of them: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vDCH1aRnRpE).

Regarding Weather-Pack, here’s my newbie report: it’s not rocket science, but there is definitely some skill involved. It's not like crimping wiring connectors; it's more advanced than that. Practice at least five times before you do the real thing. The more you do it, the better you’ll get. Here’s my first one:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143805&d=1614924117

Another thing I learned is that if you use Weather-Pack connectors, you'll need to expand the pre-drilled cutouts for the parking lights and the tail-lights so the connectors can pass through. Otherwise, you will force your painter to de-pin the connectors to remove the body (my guess: they won't appreciate that). Again, no big deal; I used a ¾-inch circular drill bit to expand these cut-outs, and the Weather-Pack connectors fit through just fine.

My car now has lights, and I’m thrilled:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143806&d=1614924160

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143807&d=1614924256

I was so thrilled that I took #9822 for a nighttime ride around the neighborhood -- about 4 miles in all. But now there is a new problem that I'd like some advice on. Next post . . .

The mounting tabs are very weak. I went back and modified after reading some others approach. I reinforced the alum tabs with another .060 or so tab to beef them up as well as putting a bead of silicone between the mount ring and PL700, They are solid now. You will find that after a while or even the slightest bump they will be loose.

https://www.ffcars.com/threads/fix-for-loose-headlights.303723/

[BadAsp427]

The build is coming right along. It's kind of neat how you work and work and work, and then one day you just step back and say wow, it's done!!! (of course it's never done)

[nucjd19]

It looks great!!! Thanks for the excellent explanations and links !

[Fman]

Thanks for the headlight tip, I'll definitely do the same with my install. Congrats on the driveable car, now you get to go out and put some miles on! Have fun out there...

One question did you notice the rear turn signals are not quite as brite as the running and brake light? I was wondering if this was just my tail lights or are you experiencing the same?

[JB in NOVA]

I only managed a couple hours here and there in the garage this week, so not a lot to report. I installed the Breeze radiator cowl (https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/radiator-cowl-cover-kit-for-use-with-ffr-hinges/) I removed the hood to do this. I suppose it might have been possible with the hood installed, but it seemed a lot easier without it, so I removed it. Lesson learned: if you purchase the Breeze radiator cowl, install it before you install the hood.

Just like all the Breeze products I’ve purchased during this project, the cowl fit like a charm, the instructions were very clear, and the result was terrific. It really does clean up the look under the hood:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144308&d=1615609976

I also liked the fact that it was already powder coated black, which saved me the trouble of doing so. At this point in my build, let me just say that everything I’ve purchased from Breeze has been superb. I can’t say enough good things about Mark’s products – the attention to detail is really apparent, and much appreciated!

The other thing I did this week is rough-install the door latches. Again, my only goal is to have functional doors so I can drive in gel-coat. I’ll leave it to the bodywork pros to get the contours exact. Nevertheless, I played around with the 3-dimensional chess that is the FFR door mounting hardware (really 4-dimensional once you add the adjustments to the body itself). Thank God there are people who know how to do this for real! In the meantime, I got it “close enough” so that I will hopefully not get laughed at when I pull up to a service station:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144307&d=1615609941

I removed just a tiny bit of material from the doors edges to get them to close without force, so the bodywork pros will have almost a full palette to work from. As for the latch hardware, the FFR instructions were very clear. The only thing to report is that the latch parts are stamped incorrectly as “RH” and “LH.” They are actually the opposite of what is stamped on them. I’m sure this has probably been reported before. Here is one of my installed door latches:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144309&d=1615610014

Progress continues . . .

[jrcuz]

I should get Mark's cowl panel and get it to Whitby, it's not like they won't have time to install it. Looks good JB.
JR

[JB in NOVA]

This weekend, my overall goal was to get my side-pipe cutouts completed and the side-pipe brackets installed. But just like in the old song “There’s a Hole in the Bucket,” there were a bunch of things I needed to do first. As many have advised on this forum, I decided to get my elephant ears installed first.

For the front elephant ears, I had already drilled rivet holes into the F-panels way back when (almost a year ago!) before I really knew how those components would fit. In retrospect, it would have been better to wait, but I’m not going to cry over spilt milk. First, I test fitted the panels with the bulb seal installed. The DS fit pretty well (with some gaps that I still need to address), but the PS needed some trimming, mostly at the bottom. Next, I installed riv-nuts on the F-panels:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144425&d=1615778948

If I were doing this from scratch, I would have installed half the number of riv-nuts. But like I said, I had already drilled those holes long ago, so I decided to just use them. I’ve read that the elephant ears take a lot of abuse from rocks and debris, so I decided to coat the tire-facing side with a rubberized coating. Based on a forum tip, I used this product:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144426&d=1615778975

I put on two coats, and I like the result so far. It’s definitely rubbery, and it seems fairly resistant to chips and dings. But time will tell . . .

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144427&d=1615778999

I temporarily installed the front elephant ears for fitment purposes, but I’m still not thrilled with overall fit. The PS fits OK, but the DS has a fairly large gap that doesn’t look good. About a quarter inch in the middle:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144428&d=1615779034

Can I get larger bulb seal? Stuff some filler in there? Fab an entirely new elephant ear? I would be interested in tips and advice.
For the rear, I fabricated some filler panels, as many have suggested:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144429&d=1615779062

I let the bulb seal extend beyond the top and bottom of the patch to help seal the gaps that aren’t reachable with a panel:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144430&d=1615779093

Then I riveted them in place:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144431&d=1615779121

I think they will work fairly well, especially compared to the gaping hole that the kit leaves you with! With these steps completed, I was ready to start fitting my side pipes . . .

[JB in NOVA]

Today, I gained a whole new appreciation for the expression “fit and trim”. My entire day consisted of “fitting” the side pipes, taking measurements (level, etc.), then “trimming” the body cutout for proper gapping. Rinse, lather, and repeat.

I’m sure the pros can knock this out in no time, but I’m paranoid about trimming too much. I want to leave as much material as possible for the bodywork guys. So I took it in baby steps, trimming just a tiny bit each time. I did learn a few lessons along the way. First, I found that adding lock washers on the bolts that attach the ball flange collector to the side pipes makes it much easier to tighten them down. Without the lock washers, I had to get a wrench on both sides to tighten (a PITA given the tight clearances, especially with the front elephant ears installed). With the lock washers, I only need to wrench one side.

Second, I finally came to appreciate the triangular “three-bolt” arrangement of the ball flange collars. It took me a while to figure out how to make fine adjustments. But basically with the three bolts in a triangular pattern, you can loosen one slightly and tighten one slightly to move the side pipe and down and side-to-side. Once I figured this out, I was able to zero in the adjustment to get the side pipes horizontal and evenly spaced from the body.

DS took very little trimming and adjusting:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144432&d=1615779307

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144434&d=1615779346

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144435&d=1615779368

PS was my problem child. I had to trim about an inch off the rear and 1/4 inch from the top. Even with these cuts, I’m still not sure the side pipe is properly positioned, although it is parallel and not touching any side of the opening:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144433&d=1615779324

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144436&d=1615779388

I didn’t have time to install the brackets, but that is next on my to-do list. In the meantime, if anyone has tips or comments on my side-pipe installation or the wheel wells in general, I would be grateful to hear them.

[Fman]

JB, did you notice the front fenders moving out much when you installed your inner fender? I have some fine tuning to do on my DS exhaust, ordered a couple wedges from Breeze.

[JB in NOVA]

JB, did you notice the front fenders moving out much when you installed your inner fender? I have some fine tuning to do on my DS exhaust, ordered a couple wedges from Breeze.

Fman, I definitely did. There was movement left, right, and especially up when the front fender inserts were installed. Not a ton on the DS (although there is gapping, which is a separate problem), but a lot on the PS. On the PS, I ended up cutting about 3/8 inch off the bottom of the elephant ear and creating a new bottom tab to screw the body into. Otherwise, the panel tended to push the PS of the body up, which affected other fittings. With that tweak to the PS, everything seems to fit OK now, except for the gaps that I mentioned above.

I know some folks have fabricated new panels to fit the body exactly. If need be, I can do that. But I'd like to hear if there are other solutions to the gapping problem before I go down that road.

[JB in NOVA]

Like many folks, I’d like to mount my rear-view mirror from the top of the windshield, rather than on the body. I’m on the waiting list for a Blackwater Customs bracket. http://www.darkwatercustoms.com/cart.php#!/Rear-View-Mirror-Bracket/p/474064/category=185741. In the meantime, I decided to fabricate a temporary bracket to help get me on the road. Pretty simple concept. I cut a rectangle out of 1/8” aluminum sheet. I bent it in the middle to a 30-degree angle (I improvised using my vice since I don’t have a metal brake). Then I drilled recessed holes for four 10-24 SS machine screws:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144857&d=1616329174

I shaved down two SS nuts so that they can slip into the windshield channel and get captured by the bracket screws. And I cut those bracket screws to length to make sure they didn’t bottom out. Once those steps were completed, everything went in pretty easily and snugged up nicely:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144839&d=1616300308

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144858&d=1616329209

Again, this is just temporary until I get my finished bracket from DWC. But I think it will work for now.

[BadAsp427]

That bracket came out good... Put that on a polishing wheel and you will have a permanent solution...

[Fman]

JB thanks for posting that mount up very helpful. I have the DWC to install this week.

Question, are you doing sun visors? Just a heads up my painter told me to be very careful about threads hitting the channel causing pressure on the windshield frame. Apparently it can cause window to crack. Not sure if this would also apply to the rear view mirror mount.

[egchewy79]

JB thanks for posting that mount up very helpful. I have the DWC to install this week.

Question, are you doing sun visors? Just a heads up my painter told me to be very careful about threads hitting the channel causing pressure on the windshield frame. Apparently it can cause window to crack. Not sure if this would also apply to the rear view mirror mount.

I used square nuts in the windshield channel similar to the DWC mirror bracket.
your painter is referring to the screws that go through the side of the windshield, not the top.
if using the top channel with the square nuts, trim your screws so they don't bottom out in the channel.
144880144883

[Fman]

I know some folks have fabricated new panels to fit the body exactly. If need be, I can do that. But I'd like to hear if there are other solutions to the gapping problem before I go down that road.

Here is some 1" larger bulb seal that you could use on the splash guards to help take up some space. I might also end up going with this option.

https://www.mcmaster.com/1120A191/

[RJD]

Nice work.

Saw this done by other builders and adopted it as well - 1/4" OD vacuum tube inserted in the windshield channel works well as trim.

144893

[JB in NOVA]

Here is some 1" larger bulb seal that you could use on the splash guards to help take up some space. I might also end up going with this option.

https://www.mcmaster.com/1120A191/

Fman, thank you! I was looking for exactly this but couldn't seem to find it. I think this will do the trick for me, as I'm about 1/8" off from flush. The extra 1/8" height on this McMaster bulb seal should work. Good find.

[JB in NOVA]

Nice work.

Saw this done by other builders and adopted it as well - 1/4" OD vacuum tube inserted in the windshield channel works well as trim.

144893

RJD, that looks really nice. I will be doing the same. Thanks for the tip!

[JB in NOVA]

Today I installed and wired the license plate bracket/light. It was a fairly straight-forward process. I cut the license-plate wiring behind the trunk hoop and made a weather-pack connection for easy de-installation. Then I ran the wiring loom up the left-hand hinge and through a grommet into the trunk lid (1/2” hole):

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144897&d=1616373153

I was surprised how thick the metal is in this area of the trunk, so be prepared for heavy-duty drilling! I used some stiff wire and string to fish the wiring through the trunk lid to where it mates with the license-plate assembly. I more-or-less followed the FFR instructions for centering the bracket, although the provided template is not accurate. Do your own measurements! I measured, then re-measured, then re-measured again about ten times. Then I drilled the holes. It turned out OK:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144898&d=1616373171

I’m assuming FFR has fixed the spacing problem that others have grappled with before, since a full-sized plate seems to fit just fine (NOTE: this is not my plate number, nor is it a legal plate; just a spare I happened to have :)):

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144899&d=1616373184

Progress continues . . .

[JB in NOVA]

What do most folks do to patch the trunk lid wiring access hole?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145059&d=1616550584

Is this just a matter of fabricating an aluminum panel and bending it to fit, then securing with rivets or screws? Do most folks get it painted along with the rest of the body? I'd appreciate any suggestions, thanks.

[nuhale]

Hit the easy button and bought the panel from dark water customs.

http://www.darkwatercustoms.com/buildrequest.php#!/Trunk-Access-Panel/p/474080/category=185862

I installed using (4) 1/4-20 alum rivnuts and stainless screw.

[edwardb]

Is this just a matter of fabricating an aluminum panel and bending it to fit, then securing with rivets or screws? Do most folks get it painted along with the rest of the body? I'd appreciate any suggestions, thanks.

Like lots of other build choices, kind of up to you. Leaving it as is a little rough but many do. Easy to make a panel from aluminum. Or Dark Water sells one. Can be installed with self-tapping screws and probably be fine since it rarely needs to be removed. Or you could use nutserts or nut plates (what I do). Some leave them bare aluminum. Kind of depends on the rest of the trunk finish and the look you're after. Or you can have painted with the rest of the car. What I've done.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Completed/.highres/IMG_1228_zpsd2jlzynm.jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/a/05cc696d-93a3-4e1e-ac1d-5974608f38fd/p/19f41cff-598c-4c6d-9710-f304913f40bc)

[RJD]

Made a panel from aluminum and installed with nutserts. Leaving it bare.

145076

If you use nutserts, try these - they are meant to bite into softer material like gelcoat or fiberglass vs metal. From McMaster-Carr.

145077

[egchewy79]

chris at darkwater customs makes a block off plate for this.

[Papa]

It's a simple and kind of fun thing to fabricate yourself. I covered it, probably way too much, in my build thread starting here:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?24916-Papa-s-MKIV-Roadster-Build-9115-(Graduated)-Russ-Thompson-Turn-Signal-Upgrade&p=340129&viewfull=1#post340129

The material is very thin that the panel will screw into, so keep that in mind. I used way more screws than are needed. I kept mine raw aluminum and just treated it with a little Sharkhide to keep it from oxidizing.

[JB in NOVA]

Garage time has been scarce lately, but I’ve managed to knock out a few small projects. First, I purchased and received a 1.5-inch adjustment wedge from Breeze to help with my PS side pipe issue. https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/side-pipe-1-%c2%bd-adjustment-wedge/ It actually helped quite a bit. With that adjustment, I was able to get my side piper hangers installed:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145579&d=1617491589

As many have advised, I only installed the upper of the two bolts on the side pipe bracket, to allow some movement and prevent cracking.

Next, I installed the Breeze adjustable seat bases. I debated whether I really needed these, but now that I’ve installed them, I’m happy I did. As many have noted, the ability to adjust the seats is probably not that important since I will be the only driver. But the seat base provides a slight recline angle, which does make it more comfortable, and I really like the extra rigidity it provides to the aluminum floor. These are solid pieces! As always, Breeze’s instructions were clear and easy to follow. I had to wait for nicer weather to prime the steel components. Here’s the base riveted to the floor:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145580&d=1617491620

Question: do most folks carpet over the entire base, leaving just the four studs protruding through the carpet? Or should I cut a big square in the carpet to accommodate the entire seat base?

The final thing I managed to install is the Breeze trunk prop, which I’m really happy with. It's simple, functional, and seems period correct:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145581&d=1617491705

A few comments about the install. First, I had to reverse the orientation compared to Breeze’s instructions (swiveling end on PS instead of DS) because the drop-trunk mod makes it impossible to get access to the ¾-inch tube on the DS to install the cotter pin. You can get access on the PS through the fuel-sender access panel, which is what I did. Second, I had to trim a few inches off the prop rod to make it fit properly – no big deal. Third, I found a great tip on another thread (sorry, can’t remember whose it was) about how to drill through nylon trunk-liner material without the “twirling” problem. Use a soldering iron to melt away the nylon material where you want to drill. It creates a clean hole that is “cauterized” so that the threads will not catch on the drill bit. Worked like a charm! I wish I had discovered that tip sooner.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145582&d=1617491732

[RJD]

do most folks carpet over the entire base, leaving just the four studs protruding through the carpet? Or should I cut a big square in the carpet to accommodate the entire seat ]

I'm sure either option is fine. I carpeted over the base and just left the four studs protruding. Worked out fine.

[Fman]

I ended up mounting my breeze seat base over the carpeting, I used a larger diameter rivet that are 4.8mm long. Not sure if this is correct way to mount but it seemed to work out fine. One tip JB when you mount the seat on to the breeze base plate. If you remove the four allen bolts that attach the seat frame to the upper base plate it makes install much easier. You can bolt down the upper plate and easily reach the four outer bolts. Once the upper plate is bolted down you can put the seat frame base on with the four allen head bolts. If you try and install the seat attached with the upper base plate it is near impossible to tighten down the outer four bolts.

[BeePea]

This hose was also included in the rear suspension box. I’m assuming this connects to the rear axle vent. Is that right?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127263&d=1587925486

Hello JB, did the answer to this become "yes"? I haven't found mine yet, but this part number is in my fuel box paperwork, which was just delivered today, so might be in there.

[JB in NOVA]

Hello JB, did the answer to this become "yes"? I haven't found mine yet, but this part number is in my fuel box paperwork, which was just delivered today, so might be in there.

Yep, that is for the axle vent, which I figured out by process of elimination.

[BeePea]

Yep, that is for the axle vent, which I figured out by process of elimination.

Thanks!

[JB in NOVA]

Well, I can no longer say “progress continues,” as I’ve suffered a very unfortunate setback. While waiting for my registration paperwork to be approved, I’ve been taking the Roadster out on neighborhood roads to shake out bugs. After 45 miles, everything was running great, and I had already taken care of several small issues (engine was idling a bit high – fixed; PS door kept swinging open – fixed; etc.)

But at mile 45, my clutch suddenly gave out. The clutch pedal lost all pressure and fluid began leaking out of the clutch/transmission. Here is #9822 taking the “ride of shame” back home:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146364&d=1618517943

Here are the basic symptoms: (1) the clutch fluid reservoir is partially drained, so I’ve definitely lost some of that fluid; (2) it also appears some transmission fluid is leaking, although it is light pink rather than red (see picture below) – so perhaps mixed with the clutch fluid?; (3) although hard to tell where the fluid is leaking from, it seems to be from the enclosure that houses the slave cylinder and throw-out bearing, both of which are internally mounted in the Blueprint 347/TKO600 drive train; (4) no leaks or apparent damage at the master cylinder or on the lines and fittings connecting to the slave cylinder/TOB.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146366&d=1618517962

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146365&d=1618517955

I’m working with the warranty team at Blueprint to diagnose the problem and figure out what to do next. The slave cylinder/TOB is a likely culprit, although I don’t see how that would cause “pink” fluid to be leaking. Seems like it should just be the clear DOT 3 brake/clutch fluid leaking if the slave cylinder/TOB failed.

Anyway, to get to the issue, I have to separate the transmission from the engine because that’s the only way to expose the internal slave cylinder/TOB. I’m assuming this can be done with the engine installed, but I could really use some advice on how to do it. I’m assuming (1) disconnect and remove the drive shaft, (2) unbolt the transmission from the mounting plate, (3) use a floor jack(?) to support the front of the transmission; (4) unbolt the bell housing from the engine; (5) and then somehow “slide” the transmission backward until it’s disconnected from the engine(?).

Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks.

Needless to say, I’m pretty disappointed with all of this. I’m used to taking two steps forward and one step back on this project, but this is a real kick in the nuts, I won’t lie.

[GTBradley]

Can't help with your hydraulic clutch issue, but fret not, everybody has had setbacks and several of us the ride of shame

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126362&d=1586809767

[nuhale]

Well, not sure how the trans fluid and clutch fluid can mix. You need to find the connection that gave way or maybe the TOB itself. You may be looking at pulling the trans to repair. I recall Shark had a similar issue in his build thread (think he has coyote but same trans). I know that many like the TOB route but slave for me for this reason.

Hope its something that can be tackled without major surgery!

[Fman]

Oh man JB, dang.. I am sorry to see this...

Wish I lived close to you, I would be over in a heartbeat to give you a hand. I hope BP gets it figured out for you and also helps out with the labor involved, you will get through this and keep moving ahead.

Best of luck to you...

[Norm B]

That’s unfortunate. At least you’re getting warranty help. As far as the dripping fluid being pink, break fluid is going to dissolve any paint it comes in contact with. Your pressure plate wouldn’t be red by some chance? Anything else red in the bell housing?

Good luck

Norm

PS Ride of shame member

[Blitzboy54]

Sorry to hear about this. The warranty is good news, but a bummer none the less. As far as the dot 3 being low those are 2 separate systems. My guess is if they are related at all is whatever blew out in your transmission damaged your throw out bearing too? Best case scenario is what Norm is saying. Maybe the transmission is fine and it’s just the bearing.


Good luck

[JB in NOVA]

That’s unfortunate. At least you’re getting warranty help. As far as the dripping fluid being pink, break fluid is going to dissolve any paint it comes in contact with. Your pressure plate wouldn’t be red by some chance? Anything else red in the bell housing?

Good luck

Norm

PS Ride of shame member

Thanks Norm. Funny you should ask. I finally was able to remove the plastic housing tonight and stick a camera up inside -- yep, everything inside is red:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146382&d=1618548324
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146383&d=1618548330

So the "good" news is that probably isn't transmission fluid leaking, it's just the DOT 3 brake/clutch fluid with some leached red paint. Thanks for catching that. Now I just need to figure out how to drop the transmission to diagnose and fix the problem.

[jrcuz]

JB, Sorry for your clutch problem and "ride of shame". I'm sure B/P will make it right.
JR

[Railroad]

I'll bet the pressure plate rubbed a hole in one of the hyd lines.
You may not have to pull the trans all the out.
Then again you will probably have to wash out the bellhousing enclosure.
I will be watching, a friend has the same set up from BPE.
Good luck,

[edwardb]

I too have experienced the ride of shame (for a different reason...) and I too will be following this thread to see the outcome. I committed to an internal hydraulic throwout bearing in my Coupe build. Different brand (Tilton) but obviously same risk if something fails. I love how it setup and works. But there is this risk. Lots written about pulling a TKO on a Mk4 Roadster. Possible but not fun. I helped a buddy do one. Takes some twists and moves but we got it done. His was on jackstands. Would have been way easier on a lift. Just saying. Also agree take a hard look at how you have the hoses routed. One of the failures previously listed on here was related to that. Not the bearing itself.

[PeteMeindl]

Oh, man, JB - I'm really sorry to hear this news. I hope it turns out to be not as tough as it first appears. Good luck - you'll make it through!

[J R Jones]

JB, you are getting a brainstorm of ideas here, so I will weigh in. I have limited experience with what I call donut TOB, we ran one on a 1954 Corvette for La Carrera Pan America, and it survived.
Your fluid drips look homogeneous, not like a mix. I always smell that kind of thing for evidence. If it was gear oil you would know. I speculate that the brake fluid may have been stressed and burned dark, Could it be that you did not have free-play and the TOB was partly loaded while you were driving? As an old guy I minimize effort. I would pull the transmission, (I can press one of those laying down) then I would pull the bellhousing if necessary.

[chuckster]

That clutch hose looks awfully close to the pressure plate. Removing and replacing the transmission/bellhousing is not that difficult, a friend and I R&R’d mine in about3 hours. (rear main seal). Try and get a plug for the output seal, it will save a lot of mess. Blue print can probably get you one if you didn’t save the one that came with your transmission.

[JB in NOVA]

I found the problem! And one of you forum gurus was SPOT ON! I’ll reveal the winner at the end of this post.

First, a few words about dropping the transmission in case some future newbie like me is faced with the same task. After discussing a couple options with Blueprint, I decided to disconnect the transmission from the bell housing, leaving the bell housing secured to the engine. I liked this option because the transmission is easier to handle without the bell housing attached, and some of those bell housing bolts are difficult to get to.

The first step (after watching a bunch of Youtube videos like this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1VmKQqwy68) was to buy a transmission floor jack for $108 at Harbor Freight. Next, I disconnected the hydraulic clutch lines, drained the transmission fluid, removed the drive shaft and the A-frame. I eventually found I also needed to remove the resilient mount from the bottom of the transmission and the shifter stub to allow the tail end of the transmission to slide fully backward:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146416&d=1618620444

Once everything was removed, I used the transmission floor jack to support the weight of the transmission and my regular floor jack to support the engine (some of the videos said this is a good idea to prevent the engine from shifting during the removal process). I removed the four bolts connecting the transmission to the bell housing. They were tight, but they broke free with some effort:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146417&d=1618620496

Finally, I carefully slid the transmission out of the bell housing, being careful to keep the alignment straight. It slid out relatively smoothly, revealing the McLeod slave cylinder/TOB:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146418&d=1618620522

And once I worked it all the way out of the bell housing, I found the culprit right away:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146419&d=1618620539

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146420&d=1618620555

Just as Railroad correctly predicted, and Chuckster too, the supply hose was rubbing against the clutch vanes inside the bell housing. Apparently 45 miles is how long it takes to eat through stainless steel braiding. The clutch itself does not appear to be damaged, though:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146421&d=1618620564

I’m relieved to know what the problem is, and I’m especially relieved to find it wasn’t my fault :) Hopefully, Blueprint will get me a replacement quickly -- and figure out how to prevent this problem in the future. I’ll update once I get the repair completed and everything buttoned up.

[RJD]

So glad for you.

[edwardb]

Hey, I suggested that too. :D But not first. Glad you found it and not a major issue.

[JB in NOVA]

Hey, I suggested that too. :D But not first. Glad you found it and not a major issue.

Ha ha! You sure did. I didn't mean to slight you, Paul. But you know you already have a Lifetime Achievement Award for being an incredibly helpful and generous FFR forum guru!

[jeffhelms56]

I found the problem! And one of you forum gurus was SPOT ON! I’ll reveal the winner at the end of this post.

First, a few words about dropping the transmission in case some future newbie like me is faced with the same task. After discussing a couple options with Blueprint, I decided to disconnect the transmission from the bell housing, leaving the bell housing secured to the engine. I liked this option because the transmission is easier to handle without the bell housing attached, and some of those bell housing bolts are difficult to get to.

The first step (after watching a bunch of Youtube videos like this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1VmKQqwy68) was to buy a transmission floor jack for $108 at Harbor Freight. Next, I disconnected the hydraulic clutch lines, drained the transmission fluid, removed the drive shaft and the A-frame. I eventually found I also needed to remove the resilient mount from the bottom of the transmission and the shifter stub to allow the tail end of the transmission to slide fully backward:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146416&d=1618620444

Once everything was removed, I used the transmission floor jack to support the weight of the transmission and my regular floor jack to support the engine (some of the videos said this is a good idea to prevent the engine from shifting during the removal process). I removed the four bolts connecting the transmission to the bell housing. They were tight, but they broke free with some effort:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146417&d=1618620496

Finally, I carefully slid the transmission out of the bell housing, being careful to keep the alignment straight. It slid out relatively smoothly, revealing the McLeod slave cylinder/TOB:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146418&d=1618620522

And once I worked it all the way out of the bell housing, I found the culprit right away:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146419&d=1618620539

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146420&d=1618620555

Just as Railroad correctly predicted, and Chuckster too, the supply hose was rubbing against the clutch vanes inside the bell housing. Apparently 45 miles is how long it takes to eat through stainless steel braiding. The clutch itself does not appear to be damaged, though:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146421&d=1618620564

I’m relieved to know what the problem is, and I’m especially relieved to find it wasn’t my fault :) Hopefully, Blueprint will get me a replacement quickly -- and figure out how to prevent this problem in the future. I’ll update once I get the repair completed and everything buttoned up.

Glad you got it figured out. Makes me a little nervous though. I’m the friend of Railroad he mentioned in his post. We dropped it in earlier this week. Wondering if there is anything I can do to inspect it short of dropping the transmission. I’ll definitely be reaching out to BPE next week. BTW...I might have missed it in your post, did you get the TKX with your motor? That’s what I have although it’s probably not relevant to this problem. Thanks for sharing your experiences!

[jrcuz]

Glad you got it figured out JB, now just clean up and new parts and reassembly. No big deal right Ha Ha!
JR

[Caddy Dad]

I have the same setup from BPE. 700 miles so far and no issues but I'm very interested in any method I can use to inspect my setup without dropping the transmission. Any insight would be appreciated.
Thanks!

[Railroad]

Recalling from Jeffhelms56 set up, I think there is room to inspect the hoses through the clutch arm window.
At worst, a probe camera should give a good view.
If the lines are attached outside of the bell housing, not allowing movement, and clear of the pressure plate, all should be good.

[JB in NOVA]

Recalling from Jeffhelms56 set up, I think there is room to inspect the hoses through the clutch arm window.
At worst, a probe camera should give a good view.
If the lines are attached outside of the bell housing, not allowing movement, and clear of the pressure plate, all should be good.

Yes, I was able to take the cover off that "window" and stick my iphone up inside with the flash on. You can get pictures of pretty much everything inside that way.

[Fman]

Nice work JB, glad it is relatively a minor fix... You will be back on the road soon!:cool:

[chuckster]

As railroad said secure the new hose to the outside of the bellhouseing, an insulated cable clip should do it, you should have a few spares left over from the wiring box. Drill, tap, screw, and you’re good to go.

[Papa]

Thinking out loud ... would it be worth fabricating a hard line for the internal connection?

[460.465USMC]

Great to see you got it resolved, JB! Thanks for sharing. This forum continues to be such an excellent resource!

* Personal note taken to ensure my towing insurance is current when I eventually get to this stage...I doubt I'll get away with only one ride of shame.

[M. Townsend]

Hi JB,

Thanks for sharing your build! I just spent the last couple of hours reading the entire adventure and enjoyed it very much. Somewhere in there, I think you mentioned your wife reviewing color combinations and I had to chuckle a bit as I am not yet into a build, but my missus has already claimed that part of the process.

Any favorite combos yet?

(I have a feeling I will end up in some fall colors with browns, oranges, reds, and blacks to choose from.)

[JB in NOVA]

Thinking out loud ... would it be worth fabricating a hard line for the internal connection?

Sounds like a good idea to me. I'm going to bounce that off the folks at Blueprint.

[jeffhelms56]

I looked at mine yesterday and there is a lot of slack in the lines going into the bellhousing. I didn’t measure it but it seems to be at least 3 inches or so. The ID of the grommets is such that they don’t have any appreciable grip on the lines and the slightest bit of force applied to the fitting tends to shove the line into the bellhousing. I’m going to install a hose separator clamp between the supply and bleed lines just outside the grommets and I think that should keep the hoses from creeping into the bellhousing.

[Blitzboy54]

Nice, it’s a bummer you had to drop the tranny but at least you know how now. Also any repair that inexpensive is a win.

Happy for you.

[John Ibele]

Yikes, JB, just caught up to your unfortunate adventure just now. Great that you were able to push through the setback within days of the event, and that it wasn't as the worst of the possible causes. Congrats on a prompt recovery, and thanks for sharing on the forum.

[JB in NOVA]

The clutch is fixed and I’m back on the road! The repair itself was trivial – McLeod sent a new braided steel hose, which I swapped for the damaged one in about 5 minutes. Re-installing the transmission was a different story. I will share what I learned in case some future newbie like me has to go through this same process.

I knew the hard part would be getting the splined transmission input shaft to mate up to the engine output shaft. Based on a tutorial I watched, I fashioned some guide studs by cutting the caps off four 7/16 hex bolts and slotting them so they could be removed with screwdriver:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147108&d=1619730730

I installed these in the four bolt holes on the bell housing:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147109&d=1619730742

Then I spent the next hour trying the wrestle the transmission into position so that it could slide onto the four studs. I kept getting close but no cigar. Finally, I realized I needed to adjust the angle of the bell housing a tiny bit to allow everything to align properly. I used my floor jack and a piece of plywood for that:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147110&d=1619730758

Once I did that, I was able to slide the transmission onto the four studs. From there, it took just a few small adjustments until the transmission suddenly slid into the engine literally with the push of a finger! When everything aligns, the splined input shaft slips into the engine like butter!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147111&d=1619730769

After that, I removed the slotted studs one at a time and replaced them with the transmission bolts. I found that the upper driver’s side stud was very difficult to remove because there isn’t much room to get a screwdriver up there. In retrospect, it probably would have been better just to use three guide studs, leaving that one open. Anyway, I finally got all four bolts in and tightened.

Then it was just a matter of replacing the A-frame, re-installing the drive shaft, re-verifying the drive angles, replacing the shifter cover (using a new bead of Right Stuff), refilling the transmission with fluid, and filling and bleeding the clutch lines. Once that was all complete, I was happy to find that my transmission works fine, and the car drives just as it did before. For now, I’ve got the clutch lines zip tied to prevent them from migrating back into the bell housing. But I’m going to order a small double cable separator to make the fix more permanent.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147112&d=1619730781

I must say, this was a real “learning experience,” but it’s done! Progress continues . . .

[jrcuz]

Great news JB, glad everything worked out.
JR

[NYMike]

Congrats JB! Glad you're back up and running. Thanks for all of the great info.

[edwardb]

Good news. Glad it worked out.

[Fman]

Way to go JB, glad your back up and running. Very nice write up and even more Kudos to you for doing it on jack stands by yourself, job well done!

Time to get out and put some miles on!:cool:

[JB in NOVA]

I’m back to putting miles on the Roadster and shaking out bugs. Over 100 miles now, and no more clutch problems :D. This car is so fun to drive! Now that my clutch drama is over, I'll backfill this thread with some of the other things I’ve done in the past several weeks.

I installed the front overriders. As recommended, I trimmed about ¼ inch of the lower spacer tubes so that the overriders match the angle of the radiator opening:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147204&d=1620001049

Still waiting for rubber grommets from Finish Line (along with several other things I ordered more than 6 weeks ago! Not sure what's going on with them).

I installed the rear bumper. I pretty much followed Mr. Kleiner’s method as explained in this thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?16986-Rear-bumper-with-coupler-mod . I ordered 12-inch all-threads from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NB40V0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and cut them down to 7 inches, which worked well. The only thing I did differently than Mr. Kleiner is I inserted short spacers (one of the FFR short spacers cut in half) between the bumper and the overrider so that they do not contact each other. You can see the separation here:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147205&d=1620001068

I installed sideview peep mirrors. First I purchased a pair of 4” flat mirrors from Speedway (https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Universal-L-R-Side-Clamp-On-Rear-View-Door-Top-Peep-Mirror-4-In,3811.html). Then I replaced the passenger’s side with a convex version, which I purchased from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AGHNIXI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). These appear to be from the same supplier. Not sure why Speedway doesn’t carry the convex version, but I like it better than the flat version on the PS. With about 50 miles under my belt, I can say these peepers work “okay.” They are outside the wind wings, which isn’t ideal. But, so far, they seem to be fairly functional. I’ll keep them on for now and decide later if I want to upgrade to the Breeze mirrors.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147206&d=1620001082 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147207&d=1620001097

Finally, I got the steering wheel placement zeroed in relative to the RT turn signal. It took a few taps of a hammer on a flat plate against the steering shaft to get the spacing where I wanted it. I also loosened and readjusted the RT turn signal, which seems to have fixed my self-canceling issues. Now everything works perfectly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147208&d=1620001127

I think she’s just about ready for paint. Now, if I could only decide on a color . . .

[RJD]

If you get tired of waiting for your grommets try these guys. Fast turnaround.

147209

[Blitzboy54]

Color really is the toughest part. Have you narrowed it down any?

[JB in NOVA]

Color really is the toughest part. Have you narrowed it down any?

I've been all over the color map (literally from blue to red to black to silver/gray, back to blue). But I keep coming back to this light blue with white stripes:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147228&d=1620009702

Problem is, as best I can tell, it isn't quite Viking Blue, and it isn't Guardsman or any of the other classic Cobra colors. Anyone have a paint code for this beauty?

[Fman]

That sure is an awesome blue! that looks amazing...

One thing JB, did you get your ride height set and car aligned yet? If you are going to be driving it and putting more miles on it might want to consider alignment sooner than later. I thought my string alignment was within specs until I had it professionally aligned which revealed how far off it was. Car drives so much better now and they also centered my steering wheel.

[Railroad]

I've been all over the color map (literally from blue to red to black to silver/gray, back to blue). But I keep coming back to this light blue with white stripes:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147228&d=1620009702

Problem is, as best I can tell, it isn't quite Viking Blue, and it isn't Guardsman or any of the other classic Cobra colors. Anyone have a paint code for this beauty?

I will have to find this picture to show Jeff K. Hopefully I will be making a trip to his shop this month.
Any knowledge of the color name is appreciated.

[TMartinLVNV]

That looks very similar to Mercedes indigolite blue metallic. I had a girlfriend that had a car in that color.

https://www.google.com/search?q=mercedes+indigolite+blue+metallic&rlz=1C1VDKB_enUS932US932&sxsrf=ALeKk02gG79J6fR9srLc4BsEcz99mbrn7Q:162005507 0257&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjzqeq3563wAhUgFDQIHS6pCjYQ_AUoAXoECAEQA w&biw=1920&bih=937

[JB in NOVA]

I’m now just a week or two away from sending the Roadster off for prep and paint, so I’m trying to button up a few more projects before it goes. First, I roughed in a trunk patch (Blackwater Customs), which I plan to secure with screws after painting. I installed a courtesy light on the panel, wired through a tilt sensor so that it comes on when the trunk is open and goes off when the trunk is closed. It works really well and was easy to install:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147632&d=1620694631

I got the light from Summit (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/GTE-G6151) and the tilt switch from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073HNMCMN). I mounted the tilt switch on the forward part of the trunk patch (which is horizontal when the trunk is closed) and wired it as a ground interrupt. Works like a charm!

Another thing I did is line the entire tunnel (both above and underneath) with thermal insulation:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147633&d=1620694648

This really cuts down the amount of heat transmitted through the tunnel aluminum. I noticed the difference right away once I installed it. With the insulation installed, it only gets slightly warm to the touch even after vigorous driving, as opposed to ACTUALLY HOT without the insulation.

Finally, I installed most (but not all) of the carpeting. I used black silicone adhesive to glue it down. As many have suggested, I had a local upholstery shop sew a heel pad into the DS inside footbox carpet to avoid wear from the accelerator pedal. I plan to use floor mats to protect the floor sections (if I ever receive them from Finish Line).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147634&d=1620694663

I also had cloth edging sewn onto some of the carpet edges, including those mating up with the tunnel, as shown above (I plan to finish the entire tunnel in leather) and along the edges near the door sills (I haven’t installed those yet).

Just a few more items left before she makes the voyage down to Georgia for painting. I can't wait!

[jrcuz]

Nice work JB. I bought a couple of the heel pads and plan to put 1 where you have yours. I've read on the forums that they can be glued on. Something tells me I should have had it sewed on. I'll see how gluing works.
JR

[JB in NOVA]

#9822 is off to Spotlight Customs for prep and paint!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147920&d=1621206861

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147919&d=1621206854

The garage seems so empty all of the sudden . . .

[RJD]

Good. We're waiting for you. (Mine is the ugly one)


147921

[Fman]

So cool! Cant wait to see it all finished up...going to be sweet!

What time frame are you looking at before you get it back?

[JB in NOVA]

So cool! Cant wait to see it all finished up...going to be sweet!

What time frame are you looking at before you get it back?

Thanks! Can't speak for Mike at Spotlight, but I'm hoping to have it back by the end of July. He seems to have an efficient process going on down there.

[jrcuz]

Great news JB, you'll still have plenty of good weather for cruising.
JR

[NYMike]

Congrats JB! Can't wait to see the end result!

[VAHokie]

Congrats, JB. Look forward to seeing the finished product. We'll have to connect on who you used for transport.

[JB in NOVA]

We'll have to connect on who you used for transport.
PM sent. I've got a good recommendation.

[KDubU]

I've been all over the color map (literally from blue to red to black to silver/gray, back to blue). But I keep coming back to this light blue with white stripes:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147228&d=1620009702

Problem is, as best I can tell, it isn't quite Viking Blue, and it isn't Guardsman or any of the other classic Cobra colors. Anyone have a paint code for this beauty?

I recall this one when I was considering paint and it’s tough to tell what with the lighting and the fact one is viewing not in person but that is extremely close to Viking Blue. Now saying that it could be slightly different as again can’t see it in person. I do recall on Club Cobra if I recall correctly that someone thought it was a custom mix but then many thought it was Princess, aka Viking.

Mine in Viking
148003

Different light
148004

Different angle and light
148005

[Jeff Kleiner]

I've been all over the color map (literally from blue to red to black to silver/gray, back to blue). But I keep coming back to this light blue with white stripes:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147228&d=1620009702

Problem is, as best I can tell, it isn't quite Viking Blue, and it isn't Guardsman or any of the other classic Cobra colors. Anyone have a paint code for this beauty?

I did this one in Brittany Blue last year. Kinda' similar...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148006&d=1600691744

Jeff

148006

[460.465USMC]

#9822 is off to Spotlight Customs for prep and paint!

The garage seems so empty all of the sudden . . .

Congrats, JB! Really appreciate all of your documentation.

[BadAsp427]

James, It was so cool to meet you in person. Sorry I did not spend very long visiting. Here is a photo of your build being dropped off at Mike's shop at Spotlight Custom Cars. Can't wait to see it when it is all done... The florescent green you picked is going to look fantastic...

148047

[460.465USMC]

...The florescent green you picked is going to look fantastic...

148047

Agreed! Fluorescent green is an excellent choice. :p

[Jeff Kleiner]

Man, ya'all are talking about fluorescent green like it's a bad thing. This is actually one of my favorites!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148120&d=1621454264

Be brave! Do something different from the usual red, blue, silver or gray... :cool:

Jeff


148120

[Blitzboy54]

Man, ya'all are talking about fluorescent green like it's a bad thing. This is actually one of my favorites!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148120&d=1621454264

Be brave! Do something different from the usual red, blue, silver or gray... :cool:

Jeff


148120

That is pretty sexy

[KDubU]

Man, ya'all are talking about fluorescent green like it's a bad thing. This is actually one of my favorites!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148120&d=1621454264

Be brave! Do something different from the usual red, blue, silver or gray... :cool:

Jeff


148120

I like it.

[JB in NOVA]

I was away for the past few weeks on business, but Mike at Spotlight has regularly been sending me pictures of his progress on the project. Now that I’m home again, I figured I’d post a couple pics. Here’s the car during the bodywork/fitment stage a couple weeks ago:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149582&d=1623903847

And now ready for primer:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149581&d=1623903847

Interesting to see it with the hood scoop cutout for the first time. Getting close to paint! I must say, fluorescent green is growing on me . . .

[BadAsp427]

I must say, fluorescent green is growing on me . . .

Always cool to see in progress photos, in progress...

How about Hot Pink?

[WIS89]

JB-

I have been following along, and I am very excited for you to be at the paint stage; you must be seriously stoked!!

Congratulations on all the hard work, and keeping us updated. I look forward to seeing her all dressed up and ready for the ball!

Regards and Beat Army!

Steve

[JB in NOVA]

I took a quick trip down to Georgia to visit Spotlight Customs and some friends who live in the Atlanta area, and it was a great experience. Spotlight Customs is located in Dahlonega, GA, in the foothills of the Appalachian mountains, and I must say Mike has a nice setup there. Here’s the view from his workshop:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150310&d=1625340520

For those interested in hiking, this is just a stone’s throw from Springer Mountain, the southern terminus of the Appalachian Trail.

I had a great time chatting with Mike, the owner of Spotlight Customs. As you can see, he has a small but efficient Cobra pipeline in operation:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150311&d=1625340520

That’s mine on the left!

Mike was nice enough to help me make a few adjustments to my car that I wanted to take care of before the body went back on:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150312&d=1625340520

That’s Mike in the blue shirt. And best of all, I got to see #9822 with her new color and stripes for the first time:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150313&d=1625340520

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150314&d=1625340520

Still some sanding and other steps left to complete, but it won’t be much longer now!

[RJD]

Beautiful! Excited for you.

[jrcuz]

.JB your roadster looks sweet, I'm jealous! Tom the owner/builder who lives 5 min. from me and I went to Whitby's last Fri. his is in for rearend collision repair (full body replacement) and I was having withdrawal symptoms having not seen it in nearly 6 mos. Actually had a couple parts that I want them to install.
JR

[BadAsp427]

Looking fantastic... Can't wait to see it in person all back together...

[460.465USMC]

Looking fantastic, James! The next coat must be the highly anticipated fluorescent green. :p Looking forward to seeing it completed, and back on the body.

Editor's note: Chris does not have an aversion to fluorescent green. Purely just funnin' with JB.

[KDubU]

Wow! Nice colour combo. You are very close now.

[Fman]

Lookin' good! That is a really sweet color combo... you will be on the road soon!

[rthomas98]

I have been following the painting on this vendors FB page (being careful as I don't think they are a vendor on this forum). I saw this roadster come up and all the progress and thought it was yours. It is looking fantastic. Really liking the colors.

[NYMike]

Looks great JB! Great choice on the colors.

[Blitzboy54]

Love, love, love the black pin stripe.

It’s subtle but really makes it pop

[JB in NOVA]

Well this is exciting! No. 9822 being loaded up in Dahlonega, Georgia tonight, getting ready for her trip back to northern Virginia. Thanks Mike, and thanks Carl!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151208&d=1627097282

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151209&d=1627097282

God speed, and safe travels!

[jrcuz]

WOW JB, so nice!
JR

[NYMike]

Wow! Looks incredible JB.

[VAHokie]

Congrats, JB! Look forward to seeing it in-person.

[JB in NOVA]

Here’s a picture of me driving the freshly painted Roadster back into my driveway on Saturday afternoon. The whole family (including the dog) came out to watch. That was two days ago, and I still can’t wipe that silly grin off my face!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151294&d=1627321585

I smile every time I walk into the garage and see this:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151295&d=1627321585

I used the downtime while it was being painted to get all the DMV paperwork completed and processed. So #9822 is now fully titled and registered in Virginia, and street legal!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151296&d=1627321585

Today, I took it for an alignment, and boy what a difference that made! My do-it-yourself alignment using strings, a ruler, and a protractor was, to put it mildly, not even close:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151297&d=1627321585

Ha ha! Out of eight front-end specs, I only had one in range. But the mechanic at our local performance shop had no problem getting it properly aligned, and it makes all the difference in the world. No more twitchiness – she drives like a dream. Still lots to do (carpeting, upholstery, nose aluminum, etc.). But progress continues . . .

[rthomas98]

that is looking absolutely fantastic.

[RJD]

Looks beautiful. Congrats!

[jrcuz]

Super nice JB, love it.
JR

[John Ibele]

Fantastic, JB. Way to go!

[460.465USMC]

Incredible, JB! Congrats on a beautiful build!

[Blitzboy54]

Looks fantastic. I’m smiling for you

[WIS89]

JB-

She looks A-mazing!! When I saw your picture, I had to smile too! I totally understand how you must feel; how rewarding!!

It's great that you got the paperwork hassle out of the way too, and the plate looks perfect.

Good luck as you wrap things up, and I look forward to your first drive videos after she's all done! Thanks for letting us along for the ride brother!!

Regards,

Steve

[Fman]

Congratulations!!!! You built one sweet looking ride, enjoy the heck out of it... awesome looking build and fun to follow your journey!:cool:

Super stoked for you... pretty cool seeing cars that were delivered off "our" same stewart truck being finished up!

[JB in NOVA]

It’s been a fun couple weeks driving the painted roadster around town. I’m constantly asking everyone in my family, “hey, do you need me to pick up anything in town? Anything at all?” Basically looking for any excuse to take the car out. I took my dad out for a cruise, and then my brother who was visiting from California. My brother asked, "when do I get to drive it?" I said, "never." I believe that's the appropriate response.

Anyway, the time has come to put the roadster back on jacks to finish some after-body projects.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151666&d=1628120662

First up was mounting the wheel liners. I got these from VRaptor (see post #33 here: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?32188-Alex-s-wheel-well-liner). They are very nice products and fit quite well. For the rears, I left the elephant ears in place (trimming a bit of the bulb seal to make room), then I attached the liners at the rear to the elephant ears and at the front to the frame rail and the back of the rear cockpit sheet metal. This seems to capture the rear liners pretty securely:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151667&d=1628120662

For the front liners, I again left the elephant ears in place and secured the rear of the liners to them. In the front, I fabricated a simple L-bracket to attach the liner to the frame rail:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151668&d=1628120662

Overall, I am very pleased with these liners, and they will definitely help keep water and dirt away from the interior of the car, as well as protect the undersides of the fenders from flying rocks.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151669&d=1628120662

[egchewy79]

those liners look great. I might be hitting shane up for a set...

[Jim Wehr]

JB Your car looks great! I'm a little late to the party but I just read your entire build thread. I am also in NOVA (Hamilton, near Leesburg). We have a fairly active group at www.Capitolareacobraclub.com We have some great events locally. Check us out if you haven't yet. Hope to see you around town.
Jim

[JB in NOVA]

I’m still working my way through the post-paint punch list. This week, I mainly focused on the nose/radiator items. First, I installed a sheet of Nomex material to protect the radiator fins. I got the Nomex sheet from Speedway (https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Nomex-Honeycomb-Radiator-Guard-Protector-Screen-Mesh-18-x-22,29432.html). The material is easy to work with; a utility knife and a straight edge is all you need. I cut a piece to size then spray painted it with high-temperature aluminum paint https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CT4AKM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It took two full cans because the honeycomb structure creates a lot of surface area to cover.

Next, I followed GTBradley’s advice and used a piece of aluminum Z-bar to mount the Nomex panel over the radiator. Here are GTBradley’s excellent instructions: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?30668-GTBradley-s-MKIV-VIN-application-approved/page10. (see posts 370-372). I bought the Z-bar from Orange aluminum. One thing I noticed, however, is that a ½ inch height Z-bar is not quite enough to accommodate the ½ inch thick Nomex sheet. It seems the 1/16 thickness of the Z-bar itself results in a “gap” that is only 7/16 wide, instead of the required 1/2 inch. You can see the gap I’m talking about here:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151784&d=1628394533

No big deal. This was easy to solve by gluing a strip of aluminum to the inside of the Z-bar to shim it out a bit for a wider gap. But if you decide to use GTBradley’s Z-bar method, I recommend ordering a 5/8” height Z-bar product like this one: https://www.orangealuminum.com/z-bars-oa9242-6m.html. That should work perfectly.
Here’s the Z-bar riveted to the radiator and the Nomex screen in place:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151785&d=1628394533

Next, I installed the brake duct screens, which I purchased from Factory Five. Nothing complicated about it, although it is a bit tedious. I trimmed the screens to fit closely because it’s tight in that area. Once I had a good fit, I used the “paint stick” method to hold them in place and then used silicon caulk to adhere them to the inside of the body:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151786&d=1628394533

I’m happy with the result. It’s a small detail, but I think it helps provide a more finished look:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151787&d=1628394533

[JB in NOVA]

Next, I installed Mike Everson’s nose aluminum panel (http://replicaparts.com/Roadster%20aluminum%20panel%20page.htm) . This is a really nice piece, but I must say it took me quite a bit of time and work to get it in place. Let me first say that if you are concerned about being able to safely insert the piece through the radiator opening of a freshly painted car, don’t be. It folds up and fits through the opening just fine. I taped all the painted edges just to be safe, but there really were no problems there.

That said, the installation itself was quite tedious. There are several reasons for this, including: (1) it is a big, wobbly, awkward piece of aluminum with lots of curves and angles; (2) because of this, it isn’t easy to tell where you need to trim to get it to fit properly; (3) every time you trim, you have to remove and then re-install the bulb seal; and (4) when it fits properly it will recess into a body groove moving everything forward ¾ inch, so you have to “imagine” this final fitment as you are trimming and adjusting—it is only at the very end that everything falls into place.

Anyway, I got it done. I can’t really tell you all the trims I made, but this should give you some idea of the process:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151788&d=1628394533

Once I got it to fit, I coated the visible surfaces with bed liner:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151791&d=1628395077

Once it is trimmed properly, it goes in very easily with just two rivets in the upper corners. Here is the final result:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151796&d=1628395162

Overall, I am happy with the product. It provides a nice, finished look to the grill area. But be prepared to spend some “quality time” in your garage to get it installed!

[jrcuz]

Looking good JB. I remember painting my Nomex, just used black rattle cans it does need a lot of paint from all angles.
JR

[jrcuz]

JB your bucket of trimmings looks about like what I took off of mine.
JR

[BadAsp427]

JB, man I thought the car looked fantastic when I dropped it off at your place, but your additional touches are really bringing it all together... Nice work and beautiful car.

[460.465USMC]

My brother asked, "when do I get to drive it?" I said, "never." I believe that's the appropriate response.

JB, I chuckled out loud when I read this. Then, I got to thinking I have four sons....doh!!

[Blitzboy54]

JB, I chuckled out loud when I read this. Then, I got to thinking I have four sons....doh!!

Same, my 14 year old asked when she would be allowed to drive it. "When I'm dead" was my response.

[John Ibele]

Man, what a great phase of the journey, JB ... you get to drive the car AND work on it. Keep those ideas coming, I made two notes on that last post, for whenever I get on the road. Beautiful car.

[JohnK]

Next, I installed Mike Everson’s nose aluminum panel (http://replicaparts.com/Roadster%20aluminum%20panel%20page.htm) . This is a really nice piece, but I must say it took me quite a bit of time and work to get it in place. Let me first say that if you are concerned about being able to safely insert the piece through the radiator opening of a freshly painted car, don’t be. It folds up and fits through the opening just fine. I taped all the painted edges just to be safe, but there really were no problems there.

That said, the installation itself was quite tedious. There are several reasons for this, including: (1) it is a big, wobbly, awkward piece of aluminum with lots of curves and angles; (2) because of this, it isn’t easy to tell where you need to trim to get it to fit properly; (3) every time you trim, you have to remove and then re-install the bulb seal; and (4) when it fits properly it will recess into a body groove moving everything forward ¾ inch, so you have to “imagine” this final fitment as you are trimming and adjusting—it is only at the very end that everything falls into place.

Anyway, I got it done. I can’t really tell you all the trims I made, but this should give you some idea of the process:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151788&d=1628394533

Once I got it to fit, I coated the visible surfaces with bed liner:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151791&d=1628395077

Once it is trimmed properly, it goes in very easily with just two rivets in the upper corners. Here is the final result:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151796&d=1628395162

Overall, I am happy with the product. It provides a nice, finished look to the grill area. But be prepared to spend some “quality time” in your garage to get it installed!

Hey JB. Very nice work! The car looks fantastic. Quick question for you on the Nomex cover + Mike Everson nose aluminum. Do you think the nose aluminum would have required trimming if you hadn't also installed the Nomex cover? I already have the aluminum piece but haven't installed it yet. I'm undecided on the Nomex cover vs. a stainless steel mesh screen that others have done. I like the idea of the Nomex cover but if using a SS screen avoids having to trim the nose aluminum that might be something to take into consideration. Do you have any more close-ups of the inside of the nose with the aluminum piece in place?

Thanks,
John

[egchewy79]

If putting the nomex under the nose aluminum, then yes, it needs to be trimmed. I'm planning on cutting the nomex to fit the opening after the aluminum is in place

[john42]

Same, my 14 year old asked when she would be allowed to drive it. "When I'm dead" was my response.

I should have mine by the end of the month and I've already had a neighbor "assume" they could burrow it for a day and take it for a drive along the coast. That is 1000000% never gonna happen.

[JB in NOVA]

Well, I’ve got almost 500 miles on the Roadster, and I’m having a blast! I’m still chipping away on some of the interior items. A couple weeks ago I managed to get the door carpeting in. I followed the suggestion of others on the forum and got those sections edged by a local upholsterer. When the two edges come together on the outside corner of the door sill, I think it makes for a cleaner look:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153529&d=1632089124

I was also sure to put lots of insulation in the spaces between the body and the frame in the door area. So far, so good -- I’m not feeling any heat coming into the cockpit in that area. As I mentioned in an earlier post, putting thermal insulation all around the transmission tunnel (including underneath) really helped, too.

This weekend, I got the transmission tunnel upholstered, as well as the shifter and E-brake boots. I went with a contrasting French stitch, which I think looks nice:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153530&d=1632089124

Because I had planned on getting the entire tunnel covered in leather, I had the adjacent carpet pieces edged before I installed them. That way, the upholsterer could just tuck the leather under those edges for a cleaner look:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153531&d=1632089124

Progress continues:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153532&d=1632089124

[jrcuz]

Man JB I like it a lot.
JR

[egchewy79]

looks super clean!

[JB in NOVA]

Not the most exiting event in my build, but I figured I would post this for completeness’s sake. From my first start, I had one symptom that bugged me. The engine ran well at speed, but at idle it would “cycle” between lean and rich. Watching the Sniper handheld, the A/F ratio would cycle between yellow and red, which caused the engine to rev, go lean, and then recover. It wasn’t terrible, but it definitely bothered me while sitting at stop lights. I was hoping the self-learning Sniper EFI computer would eventually cure this, but it didn’t.

A couple weeks ago, while I was driving into town with my wife, the A/F suddenly pegged high and the engine starting flooding with fuel. I was able to limp home with the engine belching black smoke, and my lovely wife was not impressed. I immediately suspected the oxygen sensor. When I forced the Sniper in Open Loop mode, it ran better, which apparently is one of the signs of a bad O2 sensor (i.e., because the sensor is ignored in Open Loop mode). Anyway, just as I was beginning the troubleshooting process, the O2 sensor completely quit, showing an “Unplugd” value on the handheld:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153851&d=1632796494

That made it pretty clear what the problem was. I ordered a new sensor from Holley for $119. https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/sniper_efi/sniper_efi_service_components/parts/554-155. I understand you can get the same (or equivalent) sensor a bit cheaper elsewhere, but I figured I would stick with Holley just in case this didn’t actually fix the problem (i.e., to rule out that problem was from a non-compliant sensor). Long story short, the new sensor arrived from Holley, it was a 15-minute repair (it can be done through the hood opening), and everything is working fine now. The A/F ratio is stable and perfectly in spec, no more cycling at idle, and the system is back in learn mode with no problems. She sounds better than ever!

Again, not a big deal. I just wanted to post this in case someone else has the same symptom with their Sniper EFI.

[Blitzboy54]

Not the most exiting event in my build, but I figured I would post this for completeness’s sake. From my first start, I had one symptom that bugged me. The engine ran well at speed, but at idle it would “cycle” between lean and rich. Watching the Sniper handheld, the A/F ratio would cycle between yellow and red, which caused the engine to rev, go lean, and then recover. It wasn’t terrible, but it definitely bothered me while sitting at stop lights. I was hoping the self-learning Sniper EFI computer would eventually cure this, but it didn’t.

A couple weeks ago, while I was driving into town with my wife, the A/F suddenly pegged high and the engine starting flooding with fuel. I was able to limp home with the engine belching black smoke, and my lovely wife was not impressed. I immediately suspected the oxygen sensor. When I forced the Sniper in Open Loop mode, it ran better, which apparently is one of the signs of a bad O2 sensor (i.e., because the sensor is ignored in Open Loop mode). Anyway, just as I was beginning the troubleshooting process, the O2 sensor completely quit, showing an “Unplugd” value on the handheld:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153851&d=1632796494

That made it pretty clear what the problem was. I ordered a new sensor from Holley for $119. https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/sniper_efi/sniper_efi_service_components/parts/554-155. I understand you can get the same (or equivalent) sensor a bit cheaper elsewhere, but I figured I would stick with Holley just in case this didn’t actually fix the problem (i.e., to rule out that problem was from a non-compliant sensor). Long story short, the new sensor arrived from Holley, it was a 15-minute repair (it can be done through the hood opening), and everything is working fine now. The A/F ratio is stable and perfectly in spec, no more cycling at idle, and the system is back in learn mode with no problems. She sounds better than ever!

Again, not a big deal. I just wanted to post this in case someone else has the same symptom with their Sniper EFI.

Feel like Holley should be replacing that for free. O2 sensor should last longer than a 1000 miles.


Good luck and let us know how it goes.

[460.465USMC]

Well, I’ve got almost 500 miles on the Roadster, and I’m having a blast! I’m still chipping away on some of the interior items. A couple weeks ago I managed to get the door carpeting in. I followed the suggestion of others on the forum and got those sections edged by a local upholsterer. When the two edges come together on the outside corner of the door sill, I think it makes for a cleaner look:

So great to hear you're getting time behind the driver's seat! Very cool. Thanks for keeping us up-to-date on your final touches.

[JB in NOVA]

This weekend I installed my new door panels (Cobra Herb), which I really like:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=154321&d=1633826505

The oval panel on the back cockpit wall is something I fabricated from plywood covered with leather and a piece of ¾” foam insulation cut to fit snuggly into the Breeze cubby opening:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=154317&d=1633826083

I used Velcro to keep it in place. This is really just a prototype – I’ve got some other ideas about how to fabricate this piece. But I think it really helps finish the look of the cockpit.

[JB in NOVA]

Today I took #9822 to her first “cars and coffee” in my area, and she got a lot of attention. One of the photographers there was nice enough to share a few pictures:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=154320&d=1633826083

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=154319&d=1633826083

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=154318&d=1633826083

So much fun!!

[WIS89]

JB-

She looks terrific, and those pics are really a nice treat. Glad you were able to show her off at your C & C. No doubt you received plenty of positive feedback!

Thanks for sharing those pics; I remain impressed by your work!

Regards,

Steve

[460.465USMC]

The oval panel on the back cockpit wall is something I fabricated from plywood covered with leather and a piece of ¾” foam insulation cut to fit snuggly into the Breeze cubby opening:

I used Velcro to keep it in place. This is really just a prototype – I’ve got some other ideas about how to fabricate this piece. But I think it really helps finish the look of the cockpit.

Looking fantastic, JB! Cool idea with the cubby cover.

[Caddy Dad]

Where was your C&C? I live in Maryland and always looking for a new place to meet up with fellow builders.
Cheers!

[JB in NOVA]

Where was your C&C? I live in Maryland and always looking for a new place to meet up with fellow builders.
Cheers!

The one I go to is at Katie's Coffee, in Great Falls, VA. They hold it every Saturday morning (weather permitting) from 6-9. On a nice day, it usually looks like this:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=154382&d=1634039048

[BadAsp427]

Looks fantastic.. you've built a car to be proud of... and those photos really do all your hard work justice..

[jrcuz]

Your build is a beauty JB. I can't wait to get mine back from Whitby's so I can go to the local C&C's.
JR

[Fman]

Today I took #9822 to her first “cars and coffee” in my area, and she got a lot of attention. One of the photographers there was nice enough to share a few pictures:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=154320&d=1633826083

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=154319&d=1633826083

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=154318&d=1633826083

So much fun!!

Great pics!!! and amen to your license plate too! So glad your out enjoying the car.... it really turned out sweet. C&Cs are so fun driving in the morning with no traffic being able to just cruise... a drive in a Cobra is just good for the soul:cool:

[JB in NOVA]

I just completed my 500-mile maintenance, which included changing the engine oil and filter, checking the differential fluid, re-lubricating everything, and carefully inspecting all the wear components. Everything looks good! While I was at it, I replaced my FFR standard side pipes with GAS-N touring pipes. (This was at the urging of my wife). I figured I would share my experience with the forum. First, the GAS-N pipes are beautiful – very well made, and they arrived in perfect condition. One thing I noticed is that they are several inches longer than the FFR standard side pipes, as you can see here:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156633&d=1637440905

I knew replacing the side pipes on an already-completed car might be challenging, and it was. The passenger side went in with no problems at all – I just needed a single flat spacer from Breeze. The driver’s side was a major headache, but I eventually got it done after several orders from Mark Reynolds’ Spacer and Wedge Emporium. Georgie at GAS-N was very helpful during this process and even offered to fabricate a custom collector for me. But I ended up not needing it.

One of the things I was interested in finding out is how much quieter are the GAS-N pipes? My son is a graduate student studying acoustic technology, so I asked him to help me set up an experiment. Using a Mengshen HT-80A Decibel Sound Level Meter, we took measurements with both sets of sidepipes installed, taking three measurements each at 5 feet and 10 feet, left and right side, at idle and at 2000 RPM:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156634&d=1637440905

We averaged the results, which are shown here:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156635&d=1637440905

At idle, the GAS-N pipes are 7.85 dB quieter than the FFR pipes, and at 2000 RPM, they are 4.8 dB quieter. This might not seem like a lot, but it is. Because decibels are measured on a logarithmic scale, to compare two different decibel measurements x and y, you end up comparing 10^(x/10) to 10^(y/10). (Confession: I had to watch this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNmdIHUnF-s because I couldn’t remember how to do the math).

When I did the math, I found that the sound intensity of the GAS-N touring pipes is 16.4% of the FFR pipes at idle, and 33.1% of the FFR pipes at 2000 RPM. Put differently, the FFR side pipes are 6 times louder than the GAS-N touring pipes at idle, and 3 times louder than the GAS-N pipes at 2000 RPM. That’s quite a difference!

#9822 is back on the road, and a lot quieter than before!

[Fman]

+1 on Gas 'n touring, plenty loud but not ear breaking like the FFR pipes. Just curious if you guys did a DB sound test while driving/sitting inside the cockpit area? I also had to use wedges on drivers side and passenger side bolted right up.

[460.465USMC]

Thanks for the info., JB. So helpful to see results measured with an instrument. Great writeup! I'm sold! I just need to figure out how to get these in black.

[JB in NOVA]

Hi everyone, I'm still here! I've been hibernating a while taking care of other projects, but now that the weather is getting warmer, I've started taking the Roadster out for some more drives. After solving a high-idle issue (culprit: return spring was a tiny bit too long), she's been running great. This weekend, however, just as I was pulling into my garage, I heard a high-pitched squeal and lost my serpentine belt. Upon inspection, I discovered that my alternator casing had cracked:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163872&d=1647139341

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163870&d=1647139341

This was really disappointing, as I've done nothing to the alternator or belt system since receiving the engine from Blueprint, and I still have less than 1,000 miles on the car. Everything is turning smoothly (PS, idler, drive shaft), so it wasn't a bearing problem. I've already ordered a replacement alternator, but before I install it, I was wondering if anyone else has ever had this experience? Was it likely caused by the belt being too tight? Is it possible that a different belt routing would help eliminate stress on the alternator mounting locations? Blueprint had it set up like this:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133576&d=1597374182

Should I switch to a "V" configuration? Any thoughts would be much appreciated. Thanks!

[BadAsp427]

Hope you are doing well. Wow, that is a one off issue. Give BluePrint a call. Your still under warranty and while I can not speak for them I bet they will get you fixed up. Car is still looking great and I love my Gas-N pipes as well.

[Fman]

James, I am running a similar serpentine configuration not a chrome alternator but similar type of bracket system (not from BPE got mine from Gordon Levy). I've almost got 3k miles on my car now and it has been fine. I think alternator cracking like that is a very rare issue, however not sure if a "Chrome" alternator is made any different than the standard finish? If it were me I would bolt up a new alternator and keep driving it. Switching to a V belt would require new pulleys, alternator, PS pump, water pump, etc...

[Blitzboy54]

My guess is a defective alternator housing. Like Carl said, Call BPE, my guess is they send a replacement.

[JB in NOVA]

Good news! Blueprint was quick to send me a replacement alternator. They chalked this up to a product defect, just as several of you also suggested. Here's the failed alternator out of the car:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=164257&d=1647790961

The replacement took about an hour and was fairly straight-forward. The hardest part was removing the belt pulley and from the old alternator because it was bolted to a free-moving shaft with loctite. But I got it done. Everything tightened up just fine, and I doubled-checked the belt tension using the "twist" test (https://knowhow.napaonline.com/check-belts-car/):

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=164256&d=1647790961

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=164258&d=1647790961

She's back on the road and running great!

[jrcuz]

Good to see Blueprint came through JB.
JR

[WIS89]

JB-

Glad everything worked out with the alternator, and that it was little more than a pain in the neck for you; surely could have been much more "painful." Also pleased that BluePrint responded as they did; no surprise frankly, but still great to hear!

Your car looks great, and I am pleased that y'all posted the info on the side pipe DB readings. Please thank your son (and thank you) for your work there! Really surprising there is that much difference frankly but is really quite a lot of improvement!

Great blanket by the way! ;)

Regards,

Steve

[Fman]

James glad your back on the road! Your Napa link is not working, mind sharing the belt "twist" test?

[JB in NOVA]

James glad your back on the road! Your Napa link is not working, mind sharing the belt "twist" test?

Fman, sorry the link is broken. It says (in step 3): "TENSING UP. Belts should be firmly secured in place with only a slight amount of give. There are two ways to check belt tension. First, find the longest run of the belt between two pulleys, then hold it with two fingers at the center and twist the belt toward the engine. If it turns more than 90 degrees, then the belt is too loose. The second option is to press down on the middle of the belt. A secure belt should give between one-half to 1 inch and not a bit more."

[JB in NOVA]

Because I did not include windshield wipers in my build, and because Virginia requires two electrically- or mechanically-powered windshield wipers even for a 1965 car, I found myself in need of some “temporary wipers” to pass state inspection. Following the lead of others, I fashioned a pair of temporary wipers from these parts:


Wiper motors and 11” blades: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Universal-Black-12-Volt-Electric-Windshield-Wiper-Motor-Kit,2999.html
Ron Francis WB33 Ford Roadster Wiper Brackets https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rfw-wb33
12V female cigarette lighter sockets: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094R9SG3R?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details


The Ron Francis brackets fit fairly well over the top of the windshield frame, and they do an adequate job of holding the motors in place during operation. Also, they don't damage or scratch the windshield or fame because they have soft rubber on the inside. The wiper motors from Speedway were easy to assemble and adjust. They come with a male plug for a cigarette-lighter adapter, so I wired female receptacles that can be hidden beneath the seats. When I need to hook up the temporary wipers, I unplug my seat heaters and plug the wipers in beneath the seats.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=164390&d=1647980125

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=164389&d=1647980125

Not elegant or cool-looking in any way, but it works. And most importantly, it passed inspection!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=164392&d=1647980125

Now I can stow them away until next year:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=164391&d=1647980125

[facultyofmusic]

Now I can stow them away until next year:


You need to get your wipers inspected EVERY YEAR? (This is not a question. This is just a noob being very surprised.)

[jrcuz]

Fine job JB. Looks good.
JR

[jrcuz]

You need to get your wipers inspected EVERY YEAR? (This is not a question. This is just a noob being very surprised.)

We have to get an annual safety inspection and the wipers are part of the inspection.
JR

[JB in NOVA]

I'm still taking care of a few details as I inch closer to graduation. This week, I got my FFR seats re-upholstered in the same leather I used for the transmission tunnel and the door cards. I went through lots of potential seat patterns but, in the end, settled on something simple:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=165547&d=1650129556

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=165546&d=1650129556

Basically, I widened the "stripes" compared to the FFR version, got rid of the piping, and used contrasting stitching to match the console. Perhaps overkill, but I like when everything matches.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=165543&d=1650129556

Another to-do item off my list: a Cobra steering wheel insert from Finish Line:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=165549&d=1650130320

Still making progress!

[jrcuz]

Nice JB.
JR

[JohnK]

The seats look awesome JB!

-John

[BadAsp427]

Looks fantastic....

[Fman]

Very nice custom touch they look great! also like your cover on your Breeze storage cubby. Is that on a hinge system or velcro on?

[JB in NOVA]

Very nice custom touch they look great! also like your cover on your Breeze storage cubby. Is that on a hinge system or velcro on?

Fman, the cubby cover is velcro'd in place. I'm still noodling other options, but the velcro works pretty well.

[JB in NOVA]

I had a great drive last weekend through the Virginia countryside. It was a beautiful drive, but toward the end the engine started running very rough, especially at idle. I nursed the car home, popped the hood and immediately spotted the problem. My #1 ignition wire had somehow made contact with the header and melted. Yep, that'll make the engine unhappy.

Many of you probably know this already, but I had to learn it the hard way ... make sure you insulate your spark plug wires!

This weekend, I replaced all the ignition wires with Taylors (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-75058). They have a ceramic coated spark plug boot, which should help protect them from the heat:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=167965&d=1654963282

And I intalled fiberglass heat sleeves (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092RWJ72X?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_title) on each wire in the area of the headers:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=167964&d=1654963282

Hopefully that will keep them from getting fried again. After a week in the garage, #9822 is back on the road again, and running great!

[Fman]

+1 on the sleeves, i also had the same melt down last year. After 3000 miles have had no issues.

[JB in NOVA]

This week I finally got a chance to take the Roadster on her first overnight roadtrip! A friend of mine is getting married and asked if he could use the Roadster in his engagement photos. I was happy to oblige, especially since it gave me an excuse to drive out to Skyline Drive in the Shenandoah mountains near Charlottesville, VA. The car performed like a champ, especially on the long stretches where I could really open up the throttle. It was fun watching the photographer using the Roadster as a backdrop for this young couple's "vintage" theme:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=168833&d=1656683529

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=168834&d=1656683529

Then we finished off with a beautiful sunset at a nearby vineyard:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=168832&d=1656683529

All in all, it was a great trip and a successful "stress test" for #9822. She passed with flying colors! The only trouble I had was convincing the valet at my hotel to let me self-park the car. Him: "Sir, we park all sorts of fancy cars here, Ferraris, Lamborghinis, Bentleys, you name it." Me (in my head): "Well, you're not parking this one." I eventually got my way.

[Blitzboy54]

That vineyard photo has POM written all over it.


The thing the valet doesn't understand is if they damage any of those other cars they can be fixed at the dealer. No matter who pays for any damage you built it, you have to fix it and that makes you the warranty

[toadster]

We have to get an annual safety inspection and the wipers are part of the inspection.
JR

I wish CA would do annual inspection instead of CARB, SOOO many unsafe cars on the road it's crazy! Your car looks amazing!!!

[nuhale]

This week I finally got a chance to take the Roadster on her first overnight roadtrip! A friend of mine is getting married and asked if he could use the Roadster in his engagement photos. I was happy to oblige, especially since it gave me an excuse to drive out to Skyline Drive in the Shenandoah mountains near Charlottesville, VA. The car performed like a champ, especially on the long stretches where I could really open up the throttle. It was fun watching the photographer using the Roadster as a backdrop for this young couple's "vintage" theme:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=168833&d=1656683529

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=168834&d=1656683529

Then we finished off with a beautiful sunset at a nearby vineyard:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=168832&d=1656683529

All in all, it was a great trip and a successful "stress test" for #9822. She passed with flying colors! The only trouble I had was convincing the valet at my hotel to let me self-park the car. Him: "Sir, we park all sorts of fancy cars here, Ferraris, Lamborghinis, Bentleys, you name it." Me (in my head): "Well, you're not parking this one." I eventually got my way.

NICE!! Have a plant down there in Stuarts Draft that I frequent. The Blue ridge is gorgeous and each trip I always WISH I had my cobra with me.

[460.465USMC]

Beautiful, JB! What a fun trip! Thanks for sharing.

[jrcuz]

Looks great JB Thanks for sharing.
JR

[JMD]

I so enjoyed reading through your build thread. The car turned out beautifully and you picked one of my favorite colors. I'm waiting for delivery of my kit next month, so lots of time to read and bone up on info before diving in!