Fmans Dart 427 build #9818 - 14" Leather steering wheel

[Fman]

Hello all,

The day finally arrived! What a great feeling to finally get this car in my shop. I decided to start a build thread like many others to hopefully help other people down the road but more importantly let me get help from the experienced builders on this forum to double check my work. I have already reached out to a few of you and have got some great information to help me get started. I have worked on a few different cars and trucks throughout my life but never have tackled a project from chassis up. As excited as I am hopefully my blue collar brain can figure this out, I need every cell working for me!

A little about myself... my name is Travis, married for 27 years to my highschool sweetheart, three kids, one grandchild. Our last son leaves for college this fall, so we are heading toward being empty nesters. I have worked in public safety for 24 years, this journey of building a car is definitely on my bucket list. The Cobra has always been a favorite of mine and I always thought if I ever was fortunate enough to own one it would be built with my own two hands.

I wanted to also thank Eric from Stewart, he was super cool and easy to work with. We just ended up walking the car down my driveway which ended up being easy.

My build:
Mk4 w/IRS
17" Halibrands (PC black)
Dual chrome cages
Leather seats
Full leather interior
Heated seats
Jones Racing power steering from Gordon Levy
Mustang brakes w/powerstop upgraded rotors and pads
Forte Hydraulic clutch
Vintage GPS gauges
Old school wheel

Engine:
Dart 427 (Edelbrock Pro flo 4 EFI) 520 HP
Engine builder: Elliot Franklin at Mustang Corral in Grass Valley, CA (530) 268-8403
Tko 600
Stereo: Gas 'n pipes (touring) w/drummer mike heat shields

Paint:
Ken Pike - Yuba City, CA - Kens Customs
Color BMW Sterling gray, Mercedes black stripes, Ford race red pin stripe

Budget? Blown already :D

Variety of goodies from Breeze, FFmetals, Russ Thompson, Herb, Boig and a few other vendors that will help me spend way too much money.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128083&d=1589130924
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128084&d=1589131252
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https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128087&d=1589131296
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128088&d=1589131307

[Rsnake]

Congratulations Fman! You are about to embark an an incredible journey. You build plan looks solid and I love your garage.
I am located in Half Moon Bay so not too far from you.

[norcalLo]

CONGRATS Fman!! Looks like your build specs and shop are perfect for the task! I'm in Roseville and have a MKIII - Ken did the work on mine and nothing but THUMBS-UP for his talent and knowledge. Keep us posted on the build - be safe!!

[Vspeeds]

Congratulations! I live in Elk Grove and you could reach out if you have questions or need any help. I’m a Jakey in SF.

[Fman]

Hey thanks everyone I appreciate the support... maybe someone can help me learn how to post a full size pic rather than a small thumbnail? I cant seem to figure it out.

[GTBradley]

I made a video recently for someone else with the same questions on pictures. It does't address every possible approach, but might give you an idea on how to get your setup to work:


https://youtu.be/vQ2jbt0FGNY

[bil1024]

Congrats and welcome to the family!

[Fman]

Made a little progress over the last couple days. I got my inventory done, organized my garage and did a few things on the car. I stripped her down naked marking all my panels, cleco'd my F panels, assembled the shocks and completed the upper control arm. I was able to cut the rear UCA sleeve down recommended by a few builders on the forum. I wanted to thank @toadster, I reached out to him for a little confirmation that I had everything looking the right way (hopefully I do). It was a little confusing at first having to flip one side of the UCA to give the correct ball joint angle. I also installed the Moog ball joint recommended by edwardb which I am glad I had them because they are on my POL.

Question about UCA: The only torque specs I found were on the two grade 8 bolts mounting the frame (85 ft lbs). The end bolts on the UCA I have snugged and the three bolts holding the adjustment rods I have them tight. Am I missing anything?

I am kind of bummed about all the parts I don't have because there are quite a few of them. I am missing the front LCA so the front end is at a standstill. I "should" have all the IRS components with exception of the wheel studs so that will be my next project on the car. If you are going to cut your sleeve down on the rear arm I found a hacksaw blade works good. I would plan on 2-3 blades for all four cuts. I do have a bandsaw which I used on the sleeve but the actual bolt I used in a vice with a hacksaw blade and it did fine. I did have to lightly grind down edges after the cut to smooth out the threads and blow everything out with some air. One tip, I found marking the jam nut and sleeve to orientate which way it goes back on helps once things are cut.

One other item I noticed if you are using a vehicle lift the frame is very light and moves around on the lift pads. I ended up wrapping each pad with a rubber bungee to keep the car secure until I get some more weight on it.

I am having a blast building! Some Zeppelin playing in the garage always seems to kick my mind into build mode, amazing how fast a full day goes by in the shop.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128093&d=1589145274
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128094&d=1589145301
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128098&d=1589147620
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128095&d=1589145435
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128097&d=1589145518
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128096&d=1589145456

[BadAsp427]

Fman, sorry for the late welcome... Looks like your off to a great start. Crank up the tunes and enjoy the journey...

[Fman]

Made a little more progress on the IRS diff, POR 15 and chased the 5/8" holes. I used my cordless porter cable drill and a new 5/8" titanium bit, it seemed to work well with a little pressure and letting the bit do all the work. Hopefully early this week I am going to try and mount the diff and begin installing the IRS.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128075&d=1589129697

Was also able to cut the IRS spindles and chase out the 5/8" holes. I was going to use a sawzall but decided to go with a hacksaw blade, slower going but easier to control. I used a 18 TPI blade, it worked fine but I would use a 14 TPI if I were to do it again.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128114&d=1589150909
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128115&d=1589150933
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128117&d=1589150973
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128116&d=1589150954

[Joe D]

Question:
My manual shows the passenger side UCA oriented like this
127199
Your photo shows the UCA installed backwards
127200
There should be a right and left hand UCA
127201

What's happening with this?

Thanks
Joe

[edwardb]

Question:
My manual shows the passenger side UCA oriented like this
127199
Your photo shows the UCA installed backwards
127200
There should be a right and left hand UCA
127201

What's happening with this?

Thanks
Joe

You posted the same thing in another thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?34952-Toadster-s-25th-Anniversary-MKIV-9772-Build-Thread-Front-Sway-Bar-Mounted&p=408891&viewfull=1#post408891. I see you recently joined. This has been talked about frequently in the past. The UCA's have a fixed (welded) connection on one side of the ball joint plate, and an adjustable connection on the other side. This fixed portion can be on either the front or the back. They work just fine that way. The front end alignment allows them to be dialed in perfectly. There was an issue with people putting them on upside down, but haven't seen that lately. Zerks have to up, ball joint spindle connection angled out. Factory Five has made multiple supplier changes on this part, and maybe they've just changed again? Not sure. And if they did, possibly the pictures in the build manual aren't the current parts. But I'd suggest not being confused (or giving incorrect advice) regarding the fixed vs. adjustable connections on the ball joint plate.

[Joe D]

Sorry for the double post nobody said anything on the other thread. So I thought I would elaborate.

[edwardb]

Sorry for the double post nobody said anything on the other thread. So I thought I would elaborate.

Don't care about the double post. You're posting information that's not correct, and I'd suggest you delete the posts.

[Fman]

Question:
My manual shows the passenger side UCA oriented like this
127199
Your photo shows the UCA installed backwards
127200
There should be a right and left hand UCA
127201

What's happening with this?

Thanks
Joe

Joe, at first I actually thought FFR sent me the same side. I contacted the FF tech line (via email pics) and a few other builders regarding using them on either side and it was confirmed they are correctly installed. I triple checked this before I made any cuts to the sleeves. I am complete rookie but everyone I spoke with said they are correct on either side, the important thing is to have the upper ball joint correctly orientated and the three bolt heads on top.

[JB in NOVA]

Congrats Fman! Looks like it's going to be a nice build. I think your delivery might have been in the same truck as mine. Mine was delivered 4/11/20 in Virginia and was the first of 10 off the truck. I remember Eric mentioning that his last stop would be in California. Was yours the last off the truck? Anyway, I'm glad to have a fellow builder at the same stage as me. FWIW, my front LCAs are also on back order, so I've been focusing on the rear axle for now. I know FFR is on shutdown, so it might be a while before back orders start to flow.

[Fman]

Fman, sorry for the late welcome... Looks like your off to a great start. Crank up the tunes and enjoy the journey...

Thank you, hopefully you guys can keep an eye on my work! I am trying to triple check everything. As little as I have done yet I am enjoying the challenge and slowly beginning to gain some confidence... one bolt at a time:D

[Fman]

Congrats Fman! Looks like it's going to be a nice build. I think your delivery might have been in the same truck as mine. Mine was delivered 4/11/20 in Virginia and was the first of 10 off the truck. I remember Eric mentioning that his last stop would be in California. Was yours the last off the truck? Anyway, I'm glad to have a fellow builder at the same stage as me. FWIW, my front LCAs are also on back order, so I've been focusing on the rear axle for now. I know FFR is on shutdown, so it might be a while before back orders start to flow.

Hey thanks! I am super stoked, still cant believe I have it in my garage. Yep, that would be me...last one one off the truck. Eric was great to deal with and got her in one piece to me. I am also hoping to move forward on the rear IRS because of the missing LCA's. Good luck with your build and congrats to you! I will be following your build.

[Joe D]

Joe, at first I actually thought FFR sent me the same side. I contacted the FF tech line (via email pics) and a few other builders regarding using them on either side and it was confirmed they are correctly installed. I triple checked this before I made any cuts to the sleeves. I am complete rookie but everyone I spoke with said they are correct on either side, the important thing is to have the upper ball joint correctly orientated and the three bolt heads on top.

Thanks for the explanation :)

Joe

[Fman]

Fun day in the shop today and best of all got to spend some quality time with my Dad working on the Cobra. We got the center diff installed, the IRS upper and lower control arms, and put together the shocks. From Edwardb build I ended up using the spreader trick to fit control arm bushings in the frame, 5/8" bolt pins which worked awesome for the center diff alignment and we also used the pins for installing the rear IRS swing arms as well.

Question(s): I have no wheel studs for the rear hub, if I take out the current studs can I install the hub, spindle and axle then install the studs later when they come in from FF? I was thinking I could do this because the studs will be pulled in with a nut? or maybe I am not thinking this through completely?I would like to install the axles, spindle and hub if possible before I have the studs.

Could someone please take a peek at pic below to verify the gap in the lower mounting holes on the center diff? There is a very tiny gap but they are torqued to 100 ft lbs. Just want to confirm everything looks correct?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128099&d=1589148126

1/2" spreader rod
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128100&d=1589148151

Screw jack from harbor freight to align center diff, excellent for aligning center diff
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128103&d=1589148392

My Dad, love this guy and such a big help! Great to spend time with him
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128102&d=1589148222

Diff and control arms mounted, shocks temp installed. We used a red paint pen to mark all bolts torqued to spec.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128101&d=1589148163

[Just puttering]

Congrats on the new build! Maybe we can find time to swing by and say hi this summer! Please keep the posts coming so we can follow along!

[silver_pilate]

Looking good so far! Awesome that you got to spend time with your pops working on the roadster. Have fun and keep it going!

[toadster]

Great job Travis! We need to hang out when we are allowed to again!!

[edwardb]

Nice work and progress. Great you get to work on it with your Dad. That gap on the center section mount is fine. It's against the inner sleeve. And as you've probably found, that lump is solidly mounted and not going anywhere. As for the wheel studs, I wouldn't try to remove them while mounted, but sounds like you won't either. I think you could get new ones in with everything together. Looking at pictures of mine, seems they would go in. Maybe you saw in my build thread. I use a couple hardened washers (grade 8 from the local Ace) and nut with liberal amounts of chassis grease between everything. They pull right in with an air impact driver. Just don't use your finish lug nuts. They will get chewed up. I'm a little surprised a common part like that is on backorder. Plus with Factory Five still mostly closed, could be a while. If you're impatient, I had to replace mine during my Coupe build (builder screw-up...) and used Dorman 610-290 wheel studs. Come as a package of 10. Seemed same quality and less than $20. Summit, Amazon, etc.

[Fman]

Congrats on the new build! Maybe we can find time to swing by and say hi this summer! Please keep the posts coming so we can follow along!

Come by anytime, I would love to check out your ride!

[Fman]

Great job Travis! We need to hang out when we are allowed to again!!

Hey Thanks Todd, I feel like each part I put on the car is one more foot forward up the mountain. And there is no doubt I am following your build learning a bunch.

I was going to try and make it out to a cars and coffee sometime to meet you and some Cobra owners. My work schedule changes weekly, but hopefully when they start meeting up again and I have a Saturday off I will make it out.

[Fman]

Nice work and progress. Great you get to work on it with your Dad. That gap on the center section mount is fine. It's against the inner sleeve. And as you've probably found, that lump is solidly mounted and not going anywhere. As for the wheel studs, I wouldn't try to remove them while mounted, but sounds like you won't either. I think you could get new ones in with everything together. Looking at pictures of mine, seems they would go in. Maybe you saw in my build thread. I use a couple hardened washers (grade 8 from the local Ace) and nut with liberal amounts of chassis grease between everything. They pull right in with an air impact driver. Just don't use your finish lug nuts. They will get chewed up. I'm a little surprised a common part like that is on backorder. Plus with Factory Five still mostly closed, could be a while. If you're impatient, I had to replace mine during my Coupe build (builder screw-up...) and used Dorman 610-290 wheel studs. Come as a package of 10. Seemed same quality and less than $20. Summit, Amazon, etc.

Paul, thank you clarifying the center diff mounting that will make me sleep a little better tonight! FFR sent me an email about the studs available from a local auto parts store so I ended up picking up some Dorman #610-368 today from Napa auto for $20. Tomorrow I am planning on trying to finish up the rear IRS. I might not see any POL parts for quite awhile with the FFR being shutdown for awhile longer.

[Fman]

Had a few hours this afternoon free to work on the Cobra, I got a few things completed. The rear IRS "should" be finished up, I did not torque anything down yet and was hoping someone could take a second look to confirm I have everything assembled correctly.

IRS Rear install
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128123&d=1589160945
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128122&d=1589160929
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128124&d=1589160959
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128125&d=1589160980

I am running a hydraulic clutch do I need all of these pieces in the diagram? I do not have any of these in my kit so I am assuming I will not need them?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128126&d=1589161017

Did get a few parts painted for the pedal box assembly
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128128&d=1589161047

Marked my panels I will be powder coating, still have to drill them out.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128127&d=1589161036

[MSumners]

With hydraulic clutch you won’t need the quadrant assembly.

On your painted parts, I can’t say I recall what the small square with the X through it is for.

[Fman]

Is anyone running a clutch safety start switch on the pedal box? In the manual it is an option and thought it would be a good safety feature. FFR sent me two identical brake switches, I believe I should have one brake switch and one clutch switch according to the manual?

[Vspeeds]

Is anyone running a clutch safety start switch on the pedal box? In the manual it is an option and thought it would be a good safety feature. FFR sent me two identical brake switches, I believe I should have one brake switch and one clutch switch according to the manual?

Travis

You sure are making good progress. I was sent two identical switches. However, i opted to not use the clutch safety switch.

Sorry, I should have called you...I was in Roseville and the Lincoln airport today with my cobra. Next time i’ll call you

[edwardb]

Is anyone running a clutch safety start switch on the pedal box? In the manual it is an option and thought it would be a good safety feature. FFR sent me two identical brake switches, I believe I should have one brake switch and one clutch switch according to the manual?

The switch mounting and switches themselves are the same for both the brake light switch and the clutch safety start switch. Assume you're using the Ron Francis harness? It has wires for both and is pretty much a standard feature and applicable for your Dart 427 w/tko600 build. (Coyote builds have a different setup.) Not going to turn your build thread into another debate about the clutch switch. Been done a bunch of times. Also possible to use the neutral switch on your TKO instead. But that's also another topic. If you don't want it, leave the switch off and attach the two RF wires together.

[Fman]

The switch mounting and switches themselves are the same for both the brake light switch and the clutch safety start switch. Assume you're using the Ron Francis harness? It has wires for both and is pretty much a standard feature and applicable for your Dart 427 w/tko600 build. (Coyote builds have a different setup.) Not going to turn your build thread into another debate about the clutch switch. Been done a bunch of times. Also possible to use the neutral switch on your TKO instead. But that's also another topic. If you don't want it, leave the switch off and attach the two RF wires together.

Paul, thanks for clarification. I am not sure if I am going to use a safety switch but nice to know I have the option. Did you get a chance to look at my IRS install pics? I was hoping to get confirmation all looks good before I torque everything down to spec. I actually had my UCA incorrect, the large bolt that threads into the arm was missing a jam nut on it. I confirmed it was incorrect with Toadster, definitely a miss on my part but it was a pretty easy fix this early on.

For anyone getting ready to install IRS I wanted to show the mistake I made on the UCA. I missed a nut that threads onto the large bolt before threading directly into the UCA. Hopefully this will help anyone in the future assembling IRS.

Here is incorrect way to install: (note missing nut picture)
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128104&d=1589148835
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128105&d=1589148856

Here is correct way it should be installed:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128106&d=1589148869

[Fman]

I have a question regarding drivers side footbox inside cover. I wanted to make it easily removable so I added some rivnuts to it. I was not sure how far I could go towards to the outside before the screw head would be under the lip of the fender becoming inaccessible. Could someone please take a look at attached pic and let me know how far I can extend, I would like to add one more rivnut where the red arrow is indicating

From pictures I can find it appears I can run another rivnut almost to upper corner?

Thank you
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128107&d=1589149167

[JohnK]

Congratulations on the build progress so far. That's awesome that you can work on it with your dad.

I think you're on the right track with the holes in the footbox cover. I asked the same question a few months ago here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31167-Greek-Guys-Garage-Roadster-Build-9509-(fuel-tank-and-CNC-reservoir-bracket)&p=370037&viewfull=1#post370037). Based on the responses I got, it looks like it's OK to drill holes along the front edge of the cover.

[Fman]

Congratulations on the build progress so far. That's awesome that you can work on it with your dad.

I think you're on the right track with the holes in the footbox cover. I asked the same question a few months ago here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31167-Greek-Guys-Garage-Roadster-Build-9509-(fuel-tank-and-CNC-reservoir-bracket)&p=370037&viewfull=1#post370037). Based on the responses I got, it looks like it's OK to drill holes along the front edge of the cover.

John, thanks for the reply back I appreciate it. I ended up putting one more rivnut on the upper corner and called it good. I don't really see the need for any along the backside, the six I have holding it down seem to be plenty. I will more than likely add some type of gasket/seal on underside lip to help with vibrations.

[Fman]

Good day in the shop today, dropped off a bunch of engine panels/splash guards for powder coating, completed my IRS Rear, and installed Wilwood pedal box/master cylinders.

For powder coating I went with a hammered black/silver combo, originally I was going to go with satin black but I wanted something that was going to pop a little when you open the hood. I am doing everything in engine compartment and splash guards in the hammered finish. The PC shop said this stuff is super durable, can take a beating and I like the industrial look. Fingers crossed it looks good under the hood.

Powdercoating color
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128072&d=1589129349

The IRS disc brakes went on fine but there were a couple of challenges I ran into. There are four different versions of directions on the FFR website, see link below. With the rear IRS mustang disc setup pay close attention to the spacing brackets and how thick they are. Some are different thickness than others and need to mirror each side. The brake pads supplied also have a spring at the bottom which I have never seen before.

Here is a link to the installation directions that worked for the 2020 Mk4 rear Mustang IRS disc
http://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/IRS-2015-13in-BRAKES.pdf

Rear IRS brake bracket finished with all pieces assembled, notice the thickness difference in the pieces you put together (they are staggered)
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128108&d=1589149760

Brake pads with spring clip on bottom, they slide into the caliper with some gentle manipulation. Not a common type of pad or at least nothing I have ever seen before.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128109&d=1589149786

Disc brakes and IRS rear end completed with painted silver calipers. I do still need to hook up the ebrake cable.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128110&d=1589149834

Wilwood pedal box with master cylinders attached. I am running a hydraulic clutch.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128111&d=1589149861
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128112&d=1589149880

I picked up a Russ Thompson adjustable throttle pedal which is going to be a nice upgrade!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128113&d=1589149891

[Railroad]

If you have large or wide feet, now is the time to get all the space you can between the throttle pedal and the brake pedal.
I have made adjustments to help mine, but would have looked at moving the Wilwood pedal box toward the outside, if I had known the issues. Nice looking project.

[Fman]

If you have large or wide feet, now is the time to get all the space you can between the throttle pedal and the brake pedal.
I have made adjustments to help mine, but would have looked at moving the Wilwood pedal box toward the outside, if I had known the issues. Nice looking project.

Thank you, I am really enjoying the build thus far, amazing how fast a full day goes by while working on the car. I did set brake/clutch to the furthest outside position, I have size 13 feet so having as much space as possible will definitely help. Seeing as everything is bolted down not sure there is much more I can do to open more space up. I need to check the Russ Thompson pedal to see if the pedal is adjustable side to side.

[toadster]

well you're officially past my progress Travis! :)

I love that hammered powdercoat - did you end up going to Orangevale? or other PC place?

[Fman]

well you're officially past my progress Travis! :)

I love that hammered powdercoat - did you end up going to Orangevale? or other PC place?

I wont be doing much more over the next few weeks, work is ramping up and hopefully a vacation planned with my family if things continue to open up. I ended up taking my panels to a place in Auburn called Advanced Performance Coatings, they had great reviews online. They quoted me $250 for all my panels I brought to them which I thought was a fair price. Hopefully everything turns out well, I will post up some pics of the final product. He was thinking about two weeks before I get them back.

I still can't finish my front end, I have no LCA's. I heard factory five is now beginning to open production again so hopefully I will see them sooner than later. Your build is looking great, I am following you and quite a few others on the forum which is definitely helping me! :-)

Panels drilled, cleco'd ready to be dropped off for powder coat
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128137&d=1589164998

For my foot pedal access cover I chose to only rivnut lower section, it seems plenty tight. I am planning on using some type of rubber gasket on the inside cover to help with any vibrations. If need be I will add a few more rivnuts on upper section.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128138&d=1589165050

[Fman]

My oldest son is visiting this week so we wanted to get a few hours in on the Cobra together. We installed the steering rack today with Breeze offset rack mounting kit. Overall the rack went in relatively easy, as others have recommended starting on the left side (driver) first makes it much easier. We did have to slightly chase out the back holes to accommodate the 1/2" bolts.

I want to also say Mark at Breeze automotive has been awesome to deal with. He answers his phone and is always willing to help you out when needed, cant say enough good things about him and how he treats his customers! I also upgraded to Moog tie rod ends after comparing the two the Moog definitely seem like better quality than what FFR sends out.

Breeze Automotive Offset rack mounting kit
https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/offset-rack-mounting-kit-for-ffr-roadster-and-coupe/

Moog tie rod
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOG-ES2150RL

Steering rack installed

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128289&d=1589340265

Breeze aluminum bushing, the notch allows to move the rack right or left once it is installed. It fit perfectly in the rack.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128290&d=1589340283

To center the rack we measured from tip of inside tie rod to outside of the frame on both sides then split the difference to find dead center. Mark explains this in the direction he sends with the mounting kit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128294&d=1589340332

Moog tie rod end, As you can see the Moog on top is beefier and also has a much better rubber boot. Moog is also MADE IN THE USA:D

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128292&d=1589340308
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128293&d=1589340320

Moog tie rod installed

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128295&d=1589340341

Unfortunately no LCA yet from FFR the reason my front end is incomplete.

[Fman]

Could someone please clarify this for me, is this panel for the Wilwood or Mustang pedal box? From what I can tell in the FFR manual this is for the Wilwood pedal box, just wanted to confirm. I had the other panel sent with my kit out for powder coating, I ended up taking this one over today and fortunately the PC shop said he would just throw it in and do both.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128300&d=1589342924

[Fman]

Russ Thompson Drop trunk and Kleiner coupling mod

My son and I were able to get the drop trunk installed today and Jeff Kleiner mod bolted up (Edwardb also recommended it). Really enjoying doing a few projects on the Cobra with him, he is heading back home soon so wanted to take advantage of the time with him!

Definitely nice to have a second set of hands for the drop trunk, once we figured out how the process went for installation it overall was not that bad. The process for installing the drop trunk is first you assemble/rivet the sides of the box, next you transfer the I.D. of the box on top of the aluminum trunk panel. Russ Thompson provides some general measurements to get you in the ballpark. One thing to consider if using a jigsaw is to leave enough space along the backside to allow the jigsaw to fit for cutting. After the large hole is cut you can file it down smooth and place the 4 sided box up under the cross members to get the exact cuts you will need. We used a 4" grinding wheel to cut the notches into the lower box approx 3/4" deep. Once you make the notches you will attach the bottom of the box and then cleco/rivet the top section. I am planning on using rivnuts for the inspection cover.

Here are the part numbers from McMaster-Carr for the Kleiner mod (thank you JohnK for the links).
https://www.mcmaster.com/90268A340-90268A340
https://www.mcmaster.com/92196A685-92196A685

I did use anti seize and a lock washer for installation, I was on fence about using blue loctite but decided to use a lockwasher instead, it seems plenty tight not expecting it to loosen up.

Hole cut with jigsaw

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128403&d=1589512926

My son assembling the box, the pnuematic rivet gun from Harbor Freight has been working great
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128404&d=1589512941

Upper box cleco'd
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128405&d=1589512955

Inspection panel - I do have a question about this. Is there enough room between the tank and lower section of the drop trunk to use rivnuts? Was not sure how close the tank will be the bottom of the drop trunk?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128406&d=1589512979

Kleiner coupling mod
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128410&d=1589514071
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128411&d=1589514156

[toadster]

Russ Thompson Drop trunk and Kleiner coupling mod

My son and I were able to get the drop trunk installed today and Jeff Kleiner mod bolted up (Edwardb also recommended it). Really enjoying doing a few projects on the Cobra with him, he is heading back home soon so wanted to take advantage of the time with him!

Definitely nice to have a second set of hands for the drop trunk, once we figured out how the process went for installation it overall was not that bad. The process for installing the drop trunk is first you assemble/rivet the sides of the box, next you transfer the I.D. of the box on top of the aluminum trunk panel. Russ Thompson provides some general measurements to get you in the ballpark. One thing to consider if using a jigsaw is to leave enough space along the backside to allow the jigsaw to fit for cutting. After the large hole is cut you can file it down smooth and place the 4 sided box up under the cross members to get the exact cuts you will need. We used a 4" grinding wheel to cut the notches into the lower box approx 3/4" deep. Once you make the notches you will attach the bottom of the box and then cleco/rivet the top section. I am planning on using rivnuts for the inspection cover.

Here are the part numbers from McMaster-Carr for the Kleiner mod (thank you JohnK for the links).
https://www.mcmaster.com/90268A340-90268A340
https://www.mcmaster.com/92196A685-92196A685

I did use anti seize and a lock washer for installation, I was on fence about using blue loctite but decided to use a lockwasher instead, it seems plenty tight not expecting it to loosen up.
Hole cut with jigsaw
My son assembling the box, the pnuematic rivet gun from Harbor Freight has been working great
Upper box cleco'd
Inspection panel - I do have a question about this. Is there enough room between the tank and lower section of the drop trunk to use rivnuts? Was not sure how close the tank will be the bottom of the drop trunk?
Kleiner coupling mod


looks great! it's nice that you and your son are getting time to work on it!
my son has been busy with work so not as much time, but in today's market - I'm glad he's working!

[Fman]

looks great! it's nice that you and your son are getting time to work on it!
my son has been busy with work so not as much time, but in today's market - I'm glad he's working!

Thanks Todd, the drop trunk was a fun project. First task on the Cobra where it kind of felt like we were fabricating a little.

Glad your son is also still employed, my son thankfully works in the financial market and still has a job he took the week off to visit us. Him and his wife live out of state so it was nice to have them with us this week and I got to spend some time with my grand daughter as well!;)

[JB in NOVA]

Thanks Todd, the drop trunk was a fun project. First task on the Cobra where it kind of felt like we were fabricating a little.

Glad your son is also still employed, my son thankfully works in the financial market and still has a job he took the week off to visit us. Him and his wife live out of state so it was nice to have them with us this week and I got to spend some time with my grand daughter as well!;)

Fman, your build is looking great! I had to chuckle when I saw this post because my son came home yesterday under slightly different circumstances. He's been furloughed by his company (temporarily, they say). So I told him to come home so we can work on the Roadster together. Despite the circumstances, I'm glad to have him home!

[Fman]

CNC Triple reservoir install

I have a few questions regarding my CNC install before I permanently attach to the frame rail. If someone could please take a look at the attached pics to let me know if I have enough upward clearance from body/hood and not too far from the DS pedal box panel? I thought I remembered reading a build thread that 10" or less was a safe distance? How much clearance do I need from DS pedal box panel to reservoir? I am using 10-32 nutserts, hoping four of these will have enough strength for mounting the CNC reservoir to my 1/8" bracket? I was going to also plan on using four 10-32 nutserts to mount the 1/8" bracket to the frame, wanted to confirm four of them would be strong enough?

Thank you in advance for any input on mounting this

CNC triple with 1/8" alum bracket
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128535&d=1589772977

Confirming the CNC triple is low enough to avoid any interference once the body/hood is installed?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128536&d=1589772989

Confirming the location is good for front and rear clearance?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128538&d=1589773047

Wanted to have reservoirs level as possible when mounted
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128537&d=1589773002

[Fman]

Fman, your build is looking great! I had to chuckle when I saw this post because my son came home yesterday under slightly different circumstances. He's been furloughed by his company (temporarily, they say). So I told him to come home so we can work on the Roadster together. Despite the circumstances, I'm glad to have him home!

Thanks, having a lot of fun with the build. I have picked up so many build tips from Edwardb, Papa, Jeff Kleiner, GodadGo and many other build threads out there. Sorry to hear about your sons furlough but definitely enjoy the time building with him! My oldest son just headed back home, miss him already... was nice to turn some wrenches with him.

[edwardb]

Responses from some of your questions:

CNC reservoirs: Top of caps no higher than the top of 3/4-inch tube and you'll be fine for height. Your distance from the footbox is fine. Just don't go any further away. Personally, I prefer through bolts holding the reservoirs to the bracket and the bracket to the 3/4-inch tube. It's not light and really something you don't want coming loose. The top of the 3/4-inch tube is covered by the body. I use flat head screws with a countersink. Nuts on the back of the bracket aren't visible. No downside and just more insurance than 10-32 nutserts.

There's room on the underside of the dropped trunk for nutserts. The tank isn't that close.

The DS footbox front you pictured is the correct one for a Wilwood pedal box setup. The donor version has a second large hole near the steering column hole for the brake master cylinder and a different location for the clutch cable.

[Fman]

Responses from some of your questions:

CNC reservoirs: Top of caps no higher than the top of 3/4-inch tube and you'll be fine for height. Your distance from the footbox is fine. Just don't go any further away. Personally, I prefer through bolts holding the reservoirs to the bracket and the bracket to the 3/4-inch tube. It's not light and really something you don't want coming loose. The top of the 3/4-inch tube is covered by the body. I use flat head screws with a countersink. Nuts on the back of the bracket aren't visible. No downside and just more insurance than 10-32 nutserts.

There's room on the underside of the dropped trunk for nutserts. The tank isn't that close.

The DS footbox front you pictured is the correct one for a Wilwood pedal box setup. The donor version has a second large hole near the steering column hole for the brake master cylinder and a different location for the clutch cable.

Thanks for all the clarification, very much appreciated. Got a few more for you...

Could I move the reservoir a little closer to the pedal box? What is the min clearance I need there? What size bolt do you recommend for mounting through the frame tube? I was thinking a 1/4-20 1" with a nylock nut?

[edwardb]

Thanks for all the clarification, very much appreciated. Got a few more for you...

Could I move the reservoir a little closer to the pedal box? What is the min clearance I need there? What size bolt do you recommend for mounting through the frame tube? I was thinking a 1/4-20 1" with a nylock nut?

Move it as close as you want. You just need to leave enough room to route the hoses through the footbox front. I'd suggest mocking that up before settling on the final location. 1/4-20 would be fine. Pretty sure that's what I used, if that matters.

[egchewy79]

Russ Thompson Drop trunk and Kleiner coupling mod

My son and I were able to get the drop trunk installed today and Jeff Kleiner mod bolted up (Edwardb also recommended it). Really enjoying doing a few projects on the Cobra with him, he is heading back home soon so wanted to take advantage of the time with him!

Definitely nice to have a second set of hands for the drop trunk, once we figured out how the process went for installation it overall was not that bad. The process for installing the drop trunk is first you assemble/rivet the sides of the box, next you transfer the I.D. of the box on top of the aluminum trunk panel. Russ Thompson provides some general measurements to get you in the ballpark. One thing to consider if using a jigsaw is to leave enough space along the backside to allow the jigsaw to fit for cutting. After the large hole is cut you can file it down smooth and place the 4 sided box up under the cross members to get the exact cuts you will need. We used a 4" grinding wheel to cut the notches into the lower box approx 3/4" deep. Once you make the notches you will attach the bottom of the box and then cleco/rivet the top section. I am planning on using rivnuts for the inspection cover.

Here are the part numbers from McMaster-Carr for the Kleiner mod (thank you JohnK for the links).
https://www.mcmaster.com/90268A340-90268A340
https://www.mcmaster.com/92196A685-92196A685

I did use anti seize and a lock washer for installation, I was on fence about using blue loctite but decided to use a lockwasher instead, it seems plenty tight not expecting it to loosen up.

Hole cut with jigsaw

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128403&d=1589512926

My son assembling the box, the pnuematic rivet gun from Harbor Freight has been working great
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128404&d=1589512941

Upper box cleco'd
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128405&d=1589512955

Inspection panel - I do have a question about this. Is there enough room between the tank and lower section of the drop trunk to use rivnuts? Was not sure how close the tank will be the bottom of the drop trunk?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128406&d=1589512979

Kleiner coupling mod
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128410&d=1589514071
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128411&d=1589514156

plenty of room for rivnuts under the fuel sender panel.

[Fman]

I was also able to get my fuel tank mounted. Looking back I probably should have mocked up the drop trunk to make sure the access hole aligned with sending unit. I was pleasantly surprised (and some dumb luck) the access hole is only about 1/4" off, appears to be plenty of space to access the sending unit. I am going to call it good and rivnut the cover.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128539&d=1589773075

Access panel in drop trunk

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128540&d=1589773093

[Fman]

I was able to get all of my cockpit and trunk pre drilled today, went through a lot of drill bits and a lot of battery recharges on the porter cable. I am glad to have that over, I will be taking some more items to my powder coater next week. I will not have a glove box so I decided after seeing BB767's cubby storage I would do the same.

Got the Breeze cubby hole cut today and the divider panel installed, this is going to be some nice extra storage behind the seat. Breeze specs the hole for 17 1/2", I ended up narrowing it to 14". I think it is plenty wide and I am also considering making some type of hinged door that will open and close, more to come on this.

Bonus was I got to meet Vspeeds today, Eddie came by my house while cruising up the 80 and I got to check out his sweet 289. What a beautiful car and that Roush 427 is all business, really nice to meet Eddie. He gave me some good tips and I was able to pick up some ideas looking at his car. Really nice to have such a cool network of Cobra owners, so far everyone I have met has been awesome.

Link to Breeze cockpit storage cubby
https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/cockpit-storage-cubby-kit-for-mk1-mk3-roadster/

Also just realized I am one month into my build, time flies when your having fun:D

Ended up using the trunk fuel pump cover to make my template. The bend is about perfect for an easy to trace out

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128795&d=1590105692
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128809&d=1590118085
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128796&d=1590105706
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128797&d=1590105718

Vspeeds sweet 289!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128798&d=1590105731
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128799&d=1590105747

[Mark K]

I was able to get all of my cockpit and trunk pre drilled today, went through a lot of drill bits and a lot of battery recharges on the porter cable. I am glad to have that over, I will be taking some more items to my powder coater next week. I will not have a glove box so I decided after seeing BB767's cubby storage I would do the same.

Got the Breeze cubby hole cut today and the divider panel installed, this is going to be some nice extra storage behind the seat. Breeze specs the hole for 17 1/2", I ended up narrowing it to 14". I think it is plenty wide and I am also considering making some type of hinged door that will open and close, more to come on this.

Bonus was I got to meet Vspeeds today, Eddie came by my house while cruising up the 80 and I got to check out his sweet 289. What a beautiful car and that Roush 427 is all business, really nice to meet Eddie. He gave me some good tips and I was able to pick up some ideas looking at his car. Really nice to have such a cool network of Cobra owners, so far everyone I have met has been awesome.

Link to Breeze cockpit storage cubby
https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/cockpit-storage-cubby-kit-for-mk1-mk3-roadster/

Also just realized I am one month into my build, time flies when your having fun:D

Ended up using the trunk fuel pump cover to make my template. The bend is about perfect an easy to trace out.


I'm late in the game, but welcome to the community. I have to do a better job on visiting this forum. I finished my MKIV about two months ago and am in EDH. I'm driving all over the place while I work out bugs, get miles on the chassis, etc. Available to share ideas, tips, tricks, etc.

- m

128827

[Fman]

I'm late in the game, but welcome to the community. I have to do a better job on visiting this forum. I finished my MKIV about two months ago and am in EDH. I'm driving all over the place while I work out bugs, get miles on the chassis, etc. Available to share ideas, tips, tricks, etc.

- m

128827

Mark, beautiful ride! I sent you a PM. If your ever cruising around the 80 look me up!

[JB in NOVA]

Got the Breeze cubby hole cut today and the divider panel installed, this is going to be some nice extra storage behind the seat. Breeze specs the hole for 17 1/2", I ended up narrowing it to 14". I think it is plenty wide and I am also considering making some type of hinged door that will open and close, more to come on this.


I was thinking about installing a cubby but was on the fence. I'm doing a glove box, but I also hate letting all that rear space go to waste. I think you've just pushed me off the fence. Looking great!

[Mark K]

I was thinking about installing a cubby but was on the fence. I'm doing a glove box, but I also hate letting all that rear space go to waste. I think you've just pushed me off the fence. Looking great!

I got the glove box, as well, but wanted someplace to store windbreakers, wife's purse, etc. So I wound up opening the rear deck completely between the 3/4" tubes. May not work for everyone, but it's another option.
128841

[Fman]

I got the glove box, as well, but wanted someplace to store windbreakers, wife's purse, etc. So I wound up opening the rear deck completely between the 3/4" tubes. May not work for everyone, but it's another option.
128841

Looks great! that is basically the same idea I just cut my hole down to 14". I was thinking the same thing, hats, jackets, purse, wallet, etc. will be able to be stored behind the seat. I am running a heater which is going to even limit more space behind the dash so I figured this would help out.

[Railroad]

I put the cubby kit on my car, love it. I am still in gel coat, less than 500 miles.
It may be in the instructions, but be sure the opening lower lip is high enough to accept the pinch trim used to line the opening.
I lucked out and my trim bottoms out on the cubby hole inside floor.

[Fman]

I put the cubby kit on my car, love it. I am still in gel coat, less than 500 miles.
It may be in the instructions, but be sure the opening lower lip is high enough to accept the pinch trim used to line the opening.
I lucked out and my trim bottoms out on the cubby hole inside floor.

I have about 1" on lower lip which is what Mark recommended so hopefully the trim piece will be fine.

[Fman]

I was able to grab a couple free hours today and finished up my steering shaft. I also picked up my first batch of powder coating and was pleasantly surprised how much I like the hammered look. They did a really nice job and I am hoping it is going to be very durable! I am going to also do the cockpit and trunk area which I left for them today.

I also upgraded to the FFmetals .090 firewall, it is much more rigid and imo a much better option than the .040. Here is a link on the part:
https://www.ffmetal.com/#fw1

If anyone willing can put a second set of eyes on my steering shaft install I would really appreciate it. I wanted to make sure I have the correct amount of shaft coming off the mount on the dash area. The FFR directions say to add a spring washer on the shaft, there was no way a washer of any type was going to fit on that shaft. Are they using a different set up now? It appears there was some type of round indentation in the shaft, so I tapped the shaft until it disappeared like the directions tell you then tightened down the set screw on the bearing. Everything seems smooth and there is no binding. Hopefully I did this correctly? Any feedback appreciated.

Steering shaft
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129075&d=1590543236
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129073&d=1590543171
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129087&d=1590556750
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129074&d=1590543216

FFmetals .090 firewall in powder coat
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129077&d=1590543462

Fpanel in powder coat
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129076&d=1590543286

[Mark K]

Did your upper steering shaft come with the wavy washers included in the hardware? Those are what go into the indentations on the upper steering shaft as you insert it into the lower steering shaft.

129082

[Fman]

Did your upper steering shaft come with the wavy washers included in the hardware? Those are what go into the indentations on the upper steering shaft as you insert it into the lower steering shaft.

129082

Hi Mark, I did not see any of those washers with my steering kit. So I guess I have to figure that one out. I will have to pull out of the upper shaft and double check all my inventory again. That will be my Monday project... thanks for the help, very much appreciated.

When it is fully assembled how far should the shaft be sticking out of the column from the bearing?

[Mark K]

I temporarily clamped my dash to the top hoop and used that to judge the spacing (with the steering wheel mounted to it, as well). That said, I have the RT turn signal hub, but the same method should work.

[Fman]

I temporarily clamped my dash to the top hoop and used that to judge the spacing (with the steering wheel mounted to it, as well). That said, I have the RT turn signal hub, but the same method should work.

That is a great idea, I also have the RT turn signal hub and unfortunately I do not have a steering wheel yet (one of many parts on my POL). If you are ever around your car could you take a measurement so I can get an idea of what the general measurement would be? I am a little confused because I cant see how any washer would fit in that sleeve, I feel like there would be no way that upper sleeve could ever come out or slip in there with as tight of a fit as it is and set screw tightened down. I won't be able to take a look until Monday next week, will have to take a closer look again.

[Mark K]

No prob. I can't measure the shaft directly, but with everything mounted (turn signal, modified hub, etc.), this is the spacing from the dash panel.

129092

[jiriza84641]

My oldest son is visiting this week so we wanted to get a few hours in on the Cobra together. We installed the steering rack today with Breeze offset rack mounting kit. Overall the rack went in relatively easy, as others have recommended starting on the left side (driver) first makes it much easier. We did have to slightly chase out the back holes to accommodate the 1/2" bolts.

I want to also say Mark at Breeze automotive has been awesome to deal with. He answers his phone and is always willing to help you out when needed, cant say enough good things about him and how he treats his customers! I also upgraded to Moog tie rod ends after comparing the two the Moog definitely seem like better quality than what FFR sends out.

Breeze Automotive Offset rack mounting kit
https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/offset-rack-mounting-kit-for-ffr-roadster-and-coupe/

Moog tie rod
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOG-ES2150RL

Steering rack installed



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128289&d=1589340265

Breeze aluminum bushing, the notch allows to move the rack right or left once it is installed. It fit perfectly in the rack.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128290&d=1589340283

To center the rack we measured from tip of inside tie rod to outside of the frame on both sides then split the difference to find dead center. Mark explains this in the direction he sends with the mounting kit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128294&d=1589340332

Moog tie rod end, As you can see the Moog on top is beefier and also has a much better rubber boot. Moog is also MADE IN THE USA:D

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128292&d=1589340308
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128293&d=1589340320

Moog tie rod installed

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128295&d=1589340341

Unfortunately no LCA yet from FFR the reason my front end is incomplete.


I too have the SR installed with the breeze, no LCA or Shocks from FFR as of yet so, I am doing things as much as I can. I find the breeze instructions a bit cumbersome, as I am a visual person where I need to see it done then the verbiage makes sense, but I think I got it.

Overall, your build is looking great and am following. having my panels PC's sating black, I like the sleek look, and your panels look great.

[Fman]

I too have the SR installed with the breeze, no LCA or Shocks from FFR as of yet so, I am doing things as much as I can. I find the breeze instructions a bit cumbersome, as I am a visual person where I need to see it done then the verbiage makes sense, but I think I got it.

Overall, your build is looking great and am following. having my panels PC's sating black, I like the sleek look, and your panels look great.

Thank you, I was really happy with the Powder coating the shop I used did a great job.

I also am a visual/hands on kind of guy so I too have some struggles with Breeze directions, I usually end up calling Mark to confirm everything before I move forward. He always takes my call and is more than willing to help which is awesome. I am going to give FFR a call today to see if I can get any updates on my parts on back order. I am hopeful it will be happening sooner than later, I am starting to reach a point where I cant do much more on the car without some parts I need. Trying to be patient because I realize the C19 shutdown has definitely had a huge impact on there staffing.

[Fman]

No prob. I can't measure the shaft directly, but with everything mounted (turn signal, modified hub, etc.), this is the spacing from the dash panel.

129092

Thank you for the pic, this gives me a general range of where I should be.

[Fman]

After reviewing my parts bag I discovered the two missing spring washers for the steering shaft. The upper shaft definitely has a small indentation for the washers. I am not going to not install them right now until I have the dash assembled and can set the proper shaft length. Appreciate the help from everyone!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129394&d=1591137171

[Fman]

Had a fun day working in the shop today, got some more Breeze goodies installed. My build is turning out nothing like I had planned, I am having to bounce all over the place to continue building because of missing parts from FFR. I had this systematic approach planned out but that is not longer the case, trying to move forward with different tasks. Fingers crossed I will see some parts arriving soon from FFR!

I ended up installing the Radiator with Breeze upper and lower mounting brackets, Breeze battery box, and Breeze fan shroud. All of Marks products are great quality and Mark is always willing to take a call to help you out. The only modification necessary for install of these products is you have to cut off the mounting tabs for oem radiator install on the upper cross member. Not a huge deal but definitely helps if you have a zip saw or something that can easily reciprocate in a small area. I ended up using a 4" grinder with some hacksaw cutting, looking back probably should have tried my sawzall.

I also chose not to riv nut my fan on the shroud and used the supplied Bolt/nylock nut from Breeze. I hope I do not regret this down the road if I have to swap out a fan but I did not feel comfortable having riv nuts hold such an important cooling part in place. I did test the fan to make sure it works before installing.

Here are links to Breeze products I installed:

Battery box:
https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/engine-compartment-battery-mounting-kit-mk3-3-1-4-roadster/

Upper radiator mounting kit:
https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/heavy-duty-hinged-radiator-shroud-mounting-kit/

Lower radiator mounting kit:
https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/lower-radiator-support-kit/

Fan shroud:
https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/radiator-fan-shroud/

Battery box powdercoated:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129518&d=1591326771

Mount that needs to be cut off for installing upper hinge:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129519&d=1591326783

Radiator mounted:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129520&d=1591326799

Fan shroud powdercoated:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129521&d=1591326814

[edwardb]

Your build is looking great. I like the powder coat you chose. One comment about what you said about rivet nuts. I assume you've used them before? In my experience, and I do use quite a few in varying sizes, the right size installed properly is just as strong as a regular nut and washer. They expand or collapse (varying styles) on the back side of where they're mounted and provide a mechanical clamp. So I wouldn't worry a bit about them holding your cooling fan or any other component. The issue I've observed is there is variation in the products, the method used, and the operator when they're installed. Sometimes not in a good way. The failure mode is they spin when tightened or even worse maybe when loosened. Not going to fall out, but can be a real problem nonetheless. Not suggesting you need to go back and change what you did. Your choice. But done right they're totally acceptable.

Keep up the good work.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009192015/.highres/IMG_3363_zpsdcu1txjv.jpg (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/a/4ff3183a-8740-42a4-bff3-dce22d34a8e0/p/d4e86d2c-5d71-4bcd-b828-c3c4f527db1f)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009192015/.highres/IMG_3361_zpsrjtrcv14.jpg (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/a/4ff3183a-8740-42a4-bff3-dce22d34a8e0/p/8358777c-2fce-40cc-b14e-2eee5d9de947)

[Fman]

Your build is looking great. I like the powder coat you chose. One comment about what you said about rivet nuts. I assume you've used them before? In my experience, and I do use quite a few in varying sizes, the right size installed properly is just as strong as a regular nut and washer. They expand or collapse (varying styles) on the back side of where they're mounted and provide a mechanical clamp. So I wouldn't worry a bit about them holding your cooling fan or any other component. The issue I've observed is there is variation in the products, the method used, and the operator when they're installed. Sometimes not in a good way. The failure mode is they spin when tightened or even worse maybe when loosened. Not going to fall out, but can be a real problem nonetheless. Not suggesting you need to go back and change what you did. Your choice. But done right they're totally acceptable.

Keep up the good work.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009192015/.highres/IMG_3363_zpsdcu1txjv.jpg (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/a/4ff3183a-8740-42a4-bff3-dce22d34a8e0/p/d4e86d2c-5d71-4bcd-b828-c3c4f527db1f)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009192015/.highres/IMG_3361_zpsrjtrcv14.jpg (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/a/4ff3183a-8740-42a4-bff3-dce22d34a8e0/p/8358777c-2fce-40cc-b14e-2eee5d9de947)

Paul, thanks for the words of encouragement... trying to go slow and take my time, so far I am really happy with the powder coating I selected it seems to be exceptionally durable and does not scratch easily. I am definitely taking your build thread documentation to move me forward in my build process, along with many others on this forum. This place is such a great resource.

I do not have any experience with riv nuts, building this car is my first time ever using them. If I need to remove the fan after the car is completed assuming I will just remove the entire fan shroud? Not sure how difficult this would be with the body on? I was just concerned about the bolt possibly backing off with vibrations from engine and fan running.

[edwardb]

I do not have any experience with riv nuts, building this car is my first time ever using them. If I need to remove the fan after the car is completed assuming I will just remove the entire fan shroud? Not sure how difficult this would be with the body on? I was just concerned about the bolt possibly backing off with vibrations from engine and fan running.

If you put regular nuts on the inside of the shroud, yes you would need to remove the whole shroud to remove the fan. With rivnuts, just back out the four fan screws and remove the fan. I use just a touch of blue Loctite on the screws and have never had a problem in 10+ years with several builds. You're right to be concerned about vibration. But with good practices you shouldn't have any problems.

[JohnK]

Just a note of caution about the use of Loctite around plastic parts (in this case the fan body). Loctite will damage plastic, especially ABS. The warning on the bottle says not to use Loctite on screws that go into plastic, but my experience is that even if the screw is going into metal but there is plastic nearby, there is the potential for damage. I've learned this lesson the hard way on dirt bikes. Loctite coming in contact with plastic is a definite no-no, but my understanding is that as Loctite cures, it gives off vapors that can damage plastic even if it never came directly in contact with the plastic. You can minimize this risk by using it very sparingly on any fasteners that are anywhere near plastic. As Paul said, he uses just a touch of it. One small drop is plenty on a small screw. I also think (but have no evidence to back up my hunch) that using the stick version of Loctite, rather than the liquid, gives off fewer vapors as it cures, and therefore less potential for damage of plastic parts as well as eliminating the possibility that it accidentally drips onto plastic as you're installing the screw.

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-506166-Medium-Strength-Threadlocker/dp/B0053ZNMDE

[edwardb]

Just a note of caution about the use of Loctite around plastic parts (in this case the fan body). Loctite will damage plastic, especially ABS. The warning on the bottle says not to use Loctite on screws that go into plastic, but my experience is that even if the screw is going into metal but there is plastic nearby, there is the potential for damage. I've learned this lesson the hard way on dirt bikes. Loctite coming in contact with plastic is a definite no-no, but my understanding is that as Loctite cures, it gives off vapors that can damage plastic even if it never came directly in contact with the plastic. You can minimize this risk by using it very sparingly on any fasteners that are anywhere near plastic. As Paul said, he uses just a touch of it. One small drop is plenty on a small screw. I also think (but have no evidence to back up my hunch) that using the stick version of Loctite, rather than the liquid, gives off fewer vapors as it cures, and therefore less potential for damage of plastic parts as well as eliminating the possibility that it accidentally drips onto plastic as you're installing the screw.

Very good point. Thanks for making it. Agree Loctite should be used very sparingly if at all around plastic. I haven't had any problems with the cooling fan. But as stated I used just a small amount plus I think that's some kind of reinforced or glass filled plastic. Pretty tough stuff. If you really want to see the effect of Loctite, use it around acrylic. Like wind wings or whatever. It crazes and breaks down the acrylic. Really makes a mess. Ask me how I know.

[Fman]

When Vspeeds visited my house the other day I really liked the rock/gravel guard he put on his radiator. I ended up duplicating his exact set up, thanks again Eddie for the part links and idea. I finished it up today and am pleased with how it turned out. The stainless mesh seems to be high quality and rigid enough to help protect the radiator fins, I am hopeful it will provide some extra protection.

The 1/8-3mm rivots are about perfect length to capture the aluminum border, screen and have some extra space in between the fins and screen.

If anyone has interest in doing the same below is a link to the parts I ordered and/or used.

Stainless mesh material: (I ordered the 24x36)
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3641

Spring clip fasteners
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KY8S53Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Aluminum rivets - 1/8 x 3mm spaced every 2"

1/4-20 x 1.50 stainless buttonhead bolts/washers with nylock nuts

1/4" (w) x 1/8 aluminum stock for border

Anti-sieze - I use this on all my stainless bolts

I used the breeze upper mounting hole locations to attach the spring clips. I also ran all four bolts on top through the top channel with nylock bolts and washers.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129627&d=1591579027
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129637&d=1591588519

The 1/4" alum is used as a border to hold the screen in place with alum rivets every 2".

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129632&d=1591579147

Spring clips attached, I did enlarge the mounting hole to 1/4" and slightly move hole upward on the clip to accommodate the 1/4-20 bolt and better align the clip on the aluminum channel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129629&d=1591579076

For the lower mount I used the center Breeze mounting hole, just purchased a longer bolt to allow for the channel to be secured. The mounting bolt runs completely through the radiator mounting tab and lower 3/4" square channel. It is secured with a nylock nut and washer.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129630&d=1591579117

The entire border does not put any pressure on any of the radiator cooling fins

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129631&d=1591579134

Here is all the hardware I ended up using, note the extra hole drilled in the spring clips

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129628&d=1591579051

[v1-vr]

Great craftsman you are Travis
Looks as perfection is in your blood

Have you checked out the airflow the screen might decrease.
Seems along time ago I did some research with airflow into
motorhome generator compartments and was surprised of the decrease screens vs louves on the door.

[Fman]

Great craftsman you are Travis
Looks as perfection is in your blood

Have you checked out the airflow the screen might decrease.
Seems along time ago I did some research with airflow into
motorhome generator compartments and was surprised of the decrease screens vs louves on the door.

Vspeeds has been running this mesh on his car with a Roush 427 and over 7000 miles on it now with no issues, so I can only assume the airflow will be fine and not reduce cooling. I think more importantly is having a good shroud and fan to pull air, this is why I went with the Breeze fan shroud. Making this cover is pretty simple, a few cuts of aluminum, rivets, and the spring clips is about all it takes. One of the reasons I liked it so much, easy to construct and functional.

[edwardb]

Vspeeds has been running this mesh on his car with a Roush 427 and over 7000 miles on it now with no issues, so I can only assume the airflow will be fine and not reduce cooling. I think more importantly is having a good shroud and fan to pull air, this is why I went with the Breeze fan shroud. Making this cover is pretty simple, a few cuts of aluminum, rivets, and the spring clips is about all it takes. One of the reasons I liked it so much, easy to construct and functional.

I have used the same mesh on a couple Roadster builds with no issues. Along with my own custom sheet metal.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2011082016/.highres/IMG_0762_zps78plz6go.jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/a/99edc232-bc8e-4598-80d4-0625c18a488c/p/bd753035-225b-4a23-a4e6-bccbf7e5a670)

[v1-vr]

Sounds like a proven add on. Great idea to protect the radiator
and eliminates the fin combing chore.
From memory though and I'm an old guy it's amazing how much of a drop in airflow even though looking at it you wouldn't think.

Dave
.

[Fman]

For anyone out in Elk Grove this morning it was a pleasure to meet you and see some really nice cars. I always enjoy looking under the hood and seeing how everyone puts there own customization into these builds. Lets hope we can get a local club going!

I was able to accomplish a few things on my build today. Saturday, I got back all my powder coating my entire car is officially now pimped in full powder coat. I have been really happy with Advanced Performance Coatings in Auburn, CA. They have done a fantastic job and are reasonably priced. Anyone in the Sacramento area would highly recommend them. The more I work with the silver vein powder coating it is proving to be extremely durable and scratch resistant, so far no regrets going with this finish.

I also picked up some black aluminum rivets from McMaster Carr, they are working great and look nice against silver vein powder coat. Below is a link to the rivets, I ordered 1000 of the 1/8" x 0.063"-0.125" and 300 of the 1/8" x 0.313"-0.375".

https://www.mcmaster.com/97526A120

https://www.mcmaster.com/97526A590

I also mounted my CNC triple reservoir, got my foot boxes/engine compartment cleco'd back together, and started mounting brake clip tabs in the front. I am getting close to start running my brake lines and I got some good news from Factory Five, my LCA's and some other missing parts should be arriving early this week!:D

My triple CNC mounted up, I used (3) 1/4-20 button head stainless bolts to mount the 1/8" alum plate I cut out and (4) 1/4-20 button head bolts to secure the reservoir. It is rock solid, not planning on it going anywhere.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129978&d=1592189337

Here is backside of the triple CNC and my DS footbox put back together. I still need to figure out my three line routing going into master cylinders, I have to pick up some rubber grommets for this.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129979&d=1592189359

Passenger side foot box back together

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129980&d=1592189379

Engine compartment slowly starting to come together

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129981&d=1592189393

F panel officially riveted, my first panel without a Cleco in it. Note the black aluminum McMaster Carr rivets.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129982&d=1592189413

Front brake clips mounted

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129984&d=1592193606

[BB767]

Thing of beauty Fman! Nice work.

[Mark K]

Looks great - really like the black rivets against that powdercoat.

[toadster]

Looks great - really like the black rivets against that powdercoat.

agreed! looks stellar!!

[Fman]

Had a super productive day in my shop today, I finished my front end along with installing the Mustang GT disc brakes. I also was able to run my first hard brake line! Kind of a milestone to start working on the brake lines. Vspeeds loaned me his Eastwood flare tool and it is amazing how well it works, makes flaring simple and easy. The flexible Copper-nickel line is pretty easy to work with.

I did have to remove my radiator to get to the front of the X member to install the pillow clips, not a big deal it actually comes out in about two minutes.

Here is the Copper-nickel line I ordered on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BMZ5FV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Eastwood flare tool:
https://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html

Front end completed, notice on top cross member where the four holes are for Breeze radiator hinge there is remnants of where I had to cut off the mounting tabs. I ended up painting over it with Satin black paint which seems to be a perfect match for the powder coat FFR used.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130142&d=1592451858

I painted my GT calipers silver

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130143&d=1592451871

First brake line run, I guess it looks decent?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130144&d=1592451885
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130145&d=1592451894
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130146&d=1592451906

One other item I changed was switchng all the banjo fittings to copper crush washers. Anyone interested in doing this here is the link to the pack of crush washers I picked up (Thanks Papa for the link)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y1HQ1MF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130151&d=1592451986

[JohnK]

Nice work! Everything is looking great so far. Congrats on getting the first brake line installed. I'm a bit behind you - hoping to start running brake lines next week.

[Fman]

One other item I am using is some backer rod I had laying around in my garage. It seems to be working well to measure out the length of the brake line run needed, it will get you within a few inches. I just use some tape and attach to the frame where I would be running the brake lines.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130150&d=1592451940
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130147&d=1592451918
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130148&d=1592451926
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130149&d=1592451933

[Mark K]

That's a great idea - backer rod as a template.

[Fman]

That's a great idea - backer rod as a template.

Thanks Mark, I cant really think of any other way to figure out how to measure out how long each run needs to be. I have a question about tightening the fittings, how tight do you end up going? The manual says 29 ft lbs on the banjo fitting, my 3/8 torque wrench is not super great so I just went tight without risk of stripping out something. I figure if I have a leak I can always tighten down a little more.

[toadster]

That's a great idea - backer rod as a template.

agreed, on my list for the next home depot run :)


Thanks Mark, I cant really think of any other way to figure out how to measure out how long each run needs to be. I have a question about tightening the fittings, how tight do you end up going? The manual says 29 ft lbs on the banjo fitting, my 3/8 torque wrench is not super great so I just went tight without risk of stripping out something. I figure if I have a leak I can always tighten down a little more.

assuming the copper crush washers should snug up nicely, is that the reason for going that route?
are you using PTFE paste on the fittings?
everything I see is up to 15 ft-lbs on banjo bolts

also, are you using a line straightener for the brake lines? Eastwood seems to have a decent one for 1/4" lines
Eastwood 1/4 in. Handheld Tubing Straighteners Coiled to Straight Tubing Tool for Brake & Fuel Line Tube Flaring (https://amzn.to/2N91O8T)
130161

this one may be better as it could work on 3/8" fuel lines as well (adjustable) - I think @chrisarella used this
Tool Guy Republic TGR Brake & Fuel Line Tubing Straightener - 3/16" - 1/2" Diameter Tubing (https://amzn.to/3e9F9Fk)

130169

didn't realize you got your LCAs - exciting day for sure! You got a ton completed!!

[JohnK]

Thanks Mark, I cant really think of any other way to figure out how to measure out how long each run needs to be. I have a question about tightening the fittings, how tight do you end up going? The manual says 29 ft lbs on the banjo fitting, my 3/8 torque wrench is not super great so I just went tight without risk of stripping out something. I figure if I have a leak I can always tighten down a little more.

"Just tight enough to not leak" seems to be the right answer for banjo bolts. I've seen several threads where folks have tightened to the manual-recommended spec and ended up stripping or snapping the bolt. Here's just one example:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?30048-Snapping-Rear-Banjo-Bolts

29 ft lbs sounds like way too much to me for those bolts.

[Mark K]

What the others said...just tight enough not to leak. I used the same approach for joining my hard brake and fuel line union and adapter fittings.

[Fman]

agreed, on my list for the next home depot run :)



assuming the copper crush washers should snug up nicely, is that the reason for going that route?
are you using PTFE paste on the fittings?
everything I see is up to 15 ft-lbs on banjo bolts

also, are you using a line straightener for the brake lines? Eastwood seems to have a decent one for 1/4" lines
Eastwood 1/4 in. Handheld Tubing Straighteners Coiled to Straight Tubing Tool for Brake & Fuel Line Tube Flaring (https://amzn.to/2N91O8T)
130161

this one may be better as it could work on 3/8" fuel lines as well (adjustable) - I think @chrisarella used this
Tool Guy Republic TGR Brake & Fuel Line Tubing Straightener - 3/16" - 1/2" Diameter Tubing (https://amzn.to/3e9F9Fk)

130169

didn't realize you got your LCAs - exciting day for sure! You got a ton completed!!

Todd,

I went with copper crush washers because the FFR washers looked mediocre at best and Vspeeds recommended the copper.

I did not use any PTFE paste on the fittings, I have no idea what that product is? got any more info on this?

I do have the eastwood straightener also loaned to me by Vspeeds, the one line I was able to run I did not use it. Planning on trying it on the other lines.

Page 203 of the my build manual says...

"Torque the front flexible brake line to caliper banjo bolts to 29 lb-ft with a torque wrench and 9/16” socket."

I am just going tight and will adjust once I bleed the brakes...

[edwardb]

No paste on fittings with a crush washer. The washer is doing the sealing job, not the threads. Only time to use sealant is on NPT (National Pipe Tapered) fittings where the threads are doing the sealing.

[toadster]

No paste on fittings with a crush washer. The washer is doing the sealing job, not the threads. Only time to use sealant is on NPT (National Pipe Tapered) fittings where the threads are doing the sealing.

ah yes, thanks for the reminder!

[Fman]

I was able to get all my hard brake lines finished up today, glad that is over. I have come to realize bending brake lines is not one of my strongest skills for this build. I got it done and thankful for the Eastwood flare tool and the copper nickel brake line that is very easy to work with. I still need to bleed the lines so that will be another task in the future. I was able to get away with one 25' roll of line with about 3 feet left over. One bad run that gets ruined and your more than likely going to be using two rolls.

For the front I ended up running the hard line up by the top channel behind the triple CNC reservoir. I liked this location to keep the brake lines away from the heat of the exhaust. I am hoping I do not have any issues bleeding the line, time will tell on this. I have seen a few other guys run it here so hopefully it will work out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130384&d=1592885384

I also used a small piece of fuel line I had left over to wrap around the upper bend to avoid any metal on metal contact, the rubber line is perfect size and seems like it will work out fine. It is not noticeable from looking downward only from upward angle.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130383&d=1592885372

The rear lines are completely covered with the spring guard wrap, this stuff is heavy duty and should protect it from any debris kicked up from the tires and road.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KX6Y22C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130376&d=1592885232

I was able to make one complete long run from back to front and not use any unions which I was pleased about. Having a lift definitely makes this easier but I still think it could be done with the copper nickel line on jack stands.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130377&d=1592885245
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130378&d=1592885269

This is the location I chose for the rear cross piece

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130379&d=1592885286
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130380&d=1592885305

[Fman]

For the front footbox I used a piece of fuel line to wrap around the inner piece of brake line. I figured it adds some protection against heat, I will be using the thermo tech heat barrier on everything but I know that footbox panel will be very warm. I like to think the brake fluid is as cool as possible. This could completely serve no real purpose but I figure it cant hurt anything.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130381&d=1592885322
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130382&d=1592885345

I was also able get all three flex lines trimmed down and attached to master cylinders

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130394&d=1592886814

[Fman]

Today I also got a cool package from Ansen Valve Covers :cool:

I wanted to dress up my 427 with a little different valve cover than the 427 Cobra Ford Racing that most guys end up using. I put together this design and had Ansen valve covers come up these what I call "Legend Lives" edition. They had a Shelby signature on a different style so we modified it and came up with this design. I also had them use the AC Cobra snake logo for the air cleaner. I was really pleased with how they turned out, looking forward to dropping them off to my engine builder and see them come to life once mounted on the engine. Ansen valve covers has been great to work with and will do any design you can come up with. Ask for Allen, he will take care of you!

https://www.ansenvalvecovers.com/

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130395&d=1592887356

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130396&d=1592887360

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130397&d=1592887363

[Mark K]

Nice bling!

[ydousurf]

Fman, your build is looking absolutely Fmantastic! I dig the PC color and the attention to detail, nicely done. As for the engine dress, dang, Cinderella never had it so good! And your beauty has no time deadline.
Keep at it, I/we can't wait to see that all bolted on.

Dj

[Fman]

Fman, your build is looking absolutely Fmantastic! I dig the PC color and the attention to detail, nicely done. As for the engine dress, dang, Cinderella never had it so good! And your beauty has no time deadline.
Keep at it, I/we can't wait to see that all bolted on.

Dj

Thank you, I appreciate the kind words of motivation... I am definitely a weekend hack wrench turner and really enjoying the build process. As others have mentioned it only seems to get better as the car starts to come together! Really fortunate to have this forum to study and able to learn a ton from other builders and threads, which is definitely making the process much more do-able for me.

[Fman]

After a horrendous night at work and two hours of sleep I powered through today and made a little more progress on the Mk4. Thankful for a good cup of joe and some Diet Cokes today to help me make it through the day.

THREAD UPDATE 05/21/21: I ended up not using the extra door hinge extension on the e-brake handle, it was not allowing the e-brake to retract enough and apply enough tension. I have since removed it and the e-brake is working better, although still not as good as e-stopp which I will be adding later on this winter.

Like many others I wanted to improve the FFR cable routing, not a fan of it going under the 4" round tube. I went to the Edwardb playbook, page 34 and there was the Lokar brake mod, I also used a page out of sunshine garage write up. Always appreciate Paul and all the other builders posting up there build pics to help newbs out like myself:D

https://www.sunshinegaragemkiv.com/construction-steps/emergency-brake.html

Here is a pic of the final product after I spent a few hours trying different angles and handle mounts. I was not happy with the lokar alum clevis block hitting the carriage bolt head when tightened up, after a few pulls it was already starting to scrape up the aluminum piece, over time I think this would be a problem. Of all things I ended up using a piece of stainless door hinge I had laying around in my garage. Ironically the holes aligned up perfectly to extend the handle bracket down and create more leverage and much better clearance. I ended up cutting off the hinge slots, grinding the edge smooth and painting the hinge.

I am really pleased with how this turned out, 2-3 clicks on the handle it pulls the cables tight and no components are hitting the lower carriage bolt now. I truly feel like I will have a solid, safe working e-brake now which is what I was hoping for.

This picture is with the e-brake engaged

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130704&d=1593401767

Ebrake handle disengaged

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130709&d=1593405147

Door hinge after it was painted and cut down. I did have to enlarge the lower and upper hole to accommodate the larger bolt, simple and easy.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130705&d=1593401775

Stainless door hinge before it was cut down and painted

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130707&d=1593401803

Rollers that are used to support the cable while under tension

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130706&d=1593401789

[Fman]

I have started installing the Thermo tech heat and sound suppressor. I finished the passenger side footbox and firewall. I am glad I cut the pieces before riveting the passenger footbox, it is very difficult even with a lift to get inside that passenger footbox area once the panels are installed. I was pleasantly surprised how well the thermo tech adheres to the panels and how there is a very noticeable difference in how the aluminum sounds once thermo tech is installed. Being optimistic I do believe it will help insulate the car and reduce some heat in the footboxes. I am planning on using it on both foot boxes, cockpit and trunk area.

Hopefully later this week I will finish up the DS footbox then possibly start thinking about starting electrical

Here is the passenger side footbox finished up with Thermotech. I found the best way to cut this product is with a razor knife, scisscors did not seem to work that great. After I completed riveting I went back and cut some seam strips to cover the riveted areas.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130702&d=1593401732

Passenger side footbox riveted up

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130708&d=1593401842

Firewall with thermotech riveted up

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130701&d=1593401720
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130700&d=1593401702

My awesome wife picked this up for me for fathers day, just arrived, nice little addition the shop;)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130703&d=1593401746

[toadster]

Travis - that's some cool innovation using the door hinge! :)

lookin great buddy! You should probably look at doing carpet in the footbox while you're at it :)

[Fman]

Travis - that's some cool innovation using the door hinge! :)

lookin great buddy! You should probably look at doing carpet in the footbox while you're at it :)

Todd, I knew there was a reason I never returned that hinge to home depot! Who would have thought, but it did the job and seems to be solid, not expecting any issues with it. That extra length added to the arm makes a noticeable difference to help pull the handle up easier and creates needed clearance. Thanks for the tip on the carpet, I was wondering when the carpet should start going in. I was surprised how difficult it was to access those foot boxes without the side piece off. I definitely wont be attaching the drivers outside panel permanently until after my go-kart.

[Fman]

Performance coatings finished my wheels this week, another perfect PC job from them! highly recommend them... my son talked me into going with gloss black I was a hesitant at first but I have to admit I am liking the look of them mounted up. I had them mounted up at Americas Tire Co. today those guys always do a good job, great customer service and have good pricing. I guess I officially have a rolling chassis car now or at least close to it. One thing for sure my IRS and front end is way out alignment, I am going to need to do some research on this on how I get it "close" enough for go-karting down the road before I can get it to alignment shop once the car is finished.

I was also able to install my Powerstop brake kit for the front end with drilled and slotted rotors and upraded pads. They claim 30% better braking over stock Mustang GT setup, time will tell. It is definitely affordable well priced upgrade and I do think the rotors look a lot better than the factory oem setup. Hoping to see the rear kit arrive next week.

Powerstop front brake kit, anyone interested here is link to where I purchased.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWR-K1301-26

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130924&d=1593660942

17" Halibrands, PC gloss black mounted on NItto 555 G2s. Front tires 255/40ZR17, Rear 315/35ZR17 purchased online from Americas Tire Co.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130925&d=1593660967
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130926&d=1593661009
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130927&d=1593661031

[JohnK]

Very nice!

[toadster]

lookin awesome!!!

[Fman]

Happy 4th of July to everyone, hope this weekend your able to get out and enjoy some time with your family and friends! in CA we get to wear masks, lucky us;)

I started my electrical today, only mounted the panel and then I started to have some questions so thought it would be a good stopping point.

First question, is everyone running the large wire bundle over the steering column shaft? Seems like the only option, not liking how it contacts the shaft, any other ideas?

I am running Mike Forte throttle linkage, anyone using his linkage could you let me know how far over do I need to go with the two 1 1/4" holes in firewall for electrical so I have enough real estate to mount Forte's throttle linkage? Any measurements or help on this would be appreciated! I definitely do not want to drill any holes in my firewall without making 100% sure they are in the proper locations. RF does give mounting hole measurements but they are not taking into consideration people using Forte's throttle linkage setup.

Is there any gotchas with the Ron Francis wiring harness I should be aware of? Just follow the manual step by step?

Thanks in advance for anyone who can give me any help on this...it is always appreciated.

RF fuse panel mounted, I painted it satin black and realized why Powder coating is so much more durable than rattle can paint on aluminum. It got nicked up in a few places installing the panel, will have to go back and touch it up. Not really noticeable under the dash but I was hoping to have a clean looking panel mount with no chips in the paint.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131082&d=1593835495

Is this how most guys are running the large wire loom, over the steering shaft? I cant see many other options.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131083&d=1593835509

I was also able to get my drivers footbox finished up with Thermo tech. I will finish up the seams once I permanently rivet everything, still using the Clecos on DS footbox.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131084&d=1593838142

I ended up doing everything above the brake MC's too, hopefully this keeps out as much heat as possible

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131085&d=1593838156

[edwardb]

The harness legs need to go above the steering column. And they shouldn't touch or drag on the steering column. You need to figure out a way to keep that from happening. I use a padded clamp attached the firewall on one or more of the harness legs to keep them above. But first order of business IMO is your dash. Get your gauge and switches, including ignition and headlight, located where you want them and use that to route those legs. Route the dash harness on the dash and the legs from the main harness to line up with them. From that, you'll be able to determine the best location and routing for everything. Personally I'd wait on the holes in the firewall as well until you have everything where you think they belong. Including the engine and its connections.

[Fman]

The harness legs need to go above the steering column. And they shouldn't touch or drag on the steering column. You need to figure out a way to keep that from happening. I use a padded clamp attached the firewall on one or more of the harness legs to keep them above. But first order of business IMO is your dash. Get your gauge and switches, including ignition and headlight, located where you want them and use that to route those legs. Route the dash harness on the dash and the legs from the main harness to line up with them. From that, you'll be able to determine the best location and routing for everything. Personally I'd wait on the holes in the firewall as well until you have everything where you think they belong. Including the engine and its connections.

Thanks Paul, that makes total sense. I am planning on doing the competition dash layout, my engine is in the process of being built hoping to see it in the next 4-6 weeks.

Also I noticed the fuse panel is directly below the clutch MC and center brake MC. If those cylinders ever leaked it appears the panel would get hit with brake fluid which cant be good for anything. Have you seen anyone fab up some type of cover to eliminate any fluid potentially hitting the fuse panel?

[Fman]

Hunting around on the internet I did locate this, looks like a good template for comp layout? Not sure if anyone has a better layout, this was about as good as I could find.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131183&d=1593973112

[JohnK]

Hey Travis. One suggestion I've read is to put your seat in position and temporarily place the dash in position, then make some circular cutouts of all the gauges and play with their positions so that you can have a clear line of sight to all the gauges from your sitting position.

[Fman]

Hey Travis. One suggestion I've read is to put your seat in position and temporarily place the dash in position, then make some circular cutouts of all the gauges and play with their positions so that you can have a clear line of sight to all the gauges from your sitting position.

John, good idea thanks for the tip. The dash is going to keep me busy for awhile, I am looking forward to the challenge. I am also going to try and source out some good quality automotive leather and pad for the dash, not a fan of what FFR sent me. The material they sent me looks cheap and not really good quality, disappointing to see this.

[Mark Eaton]

Travis, I bought a cow hide on eBay for my dash and it was really nice quality. I wound up going a different direction with the dash but used the leather on the trans cover, headrests and cubby. Check this out https://www.ebay.com/itm/162592582983

Mark

[Fman]

Travis, I bought a cow hide on eBay for my dash and it was really nice quality. I wound up going a different direction with the dash but used the leather on the trans cover, headrests and cubby. Check this out https://www.ebay.com/itm/162592582983

Mark

Mark, thanks for sharing that link. That hide looks really good quality, I might just order that one up. It appears there would be enough with one hide to do the dash and center console.

One question for you, any idea if this hide matches up with the FFR leather seats?

[Nigel Allen]

I noticed the fuse panel is directly below the clutch MC and center brake MC. If those cylinders ever leaked it appears the panel would get hit with brake fluid which cant be good for anything. Have you seen anyone fab up some type of cover to eliminate any fluid potentially hitting the fuse panel?

Havent had issue with the MC's leaking (touch wood) but instead on a friends Mk3 had a case where after washing the car, the indicators would no longer flash. Fault traced to flasher can full of water. This had dripped through where the side bar on the windscreen passes through the body. Even though my friend had done his best to seal it, water still penetrated. This was a RH drive, but is pretty much a mirror image of what you are building, so something to consider?

Cheers,

Nigel

[Mark Eaton]

I am happy with the color match. Here is an outdoor and indoor photo

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131500&d=1594338709

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131499&d=1594338675

[460.465USMC]

Thanks for the careful and thorough documentation, Fman--just read the e-brake pulley Mod (thanks again, Edwardb!). I'm really enjoying your build thread. Including the links to the sources of some of the Mod parts is especially helpful to me. Also, hadn't heard of the Sunshine garage yet, so thanks for the link on that one as well. I have many notes and tips written down for consideration once my build gets underway--ordered complete kit last week, but don't expect to have my hands on it until late Sept/early Oct. Great build!

[Fman]

Thanks for the careful and thorough documentation, Fman--just read the e-brake pulley Mod (thanks again, Edwardb!). I'm really enjoying your build thread. Including the links to the sources of some of the Mod parts is especially helpful to me. Also, hadn't heard of the Sunshine garage yet, so thanks for the link on that one as well. I have many notes and tips written down for consideration once my build gets underway--ordered complete kit last week, but don't expect to have my hands on it until late Sept/early Oct. Great build!

Thank you, your words are good motivation for me... I am learning as I go also reading other builds on the forum to help me keep chugging along!

Congratulations on your order, I will be looking for your delivery pics! That for sure is a fun day:D

[Fman]

Too many hours at work and demands of life has not given me much time to work on the Cobra lately. I did get a few small tasks completed on it, I installed the rear power stop brake rotors and pads, new fuse panel bracket cut out and came up with possibly a solution for potential leaks having the clutch MC right above the fuse panel.

Power stop rear disc rotor kit, this is for the 13" rear brakes with the 87-88 Thunderbird calipers
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWR-AR-85160XPR

Ceramic pads
https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-pads/duralast-ceramic-brake-pads-d347/728576_420698_3773

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131602&d=1594493400
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131603&d=1594493413

New fuse panel bracket, thicker material (.040) The Ron Francis bracket is very thin aluminum, this adds a little more stability and it is also powder coated.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131606&d=1594493525

Drip guard, this will help eliminate any brake fluid from MC or water leaking through windshield channel coming in on the fuse panel. I can only assume fluids/water leaking down on an exposed fuse panel would not be a good outcome. I currently have it velcro'd in place, I wanted to make this easily removable just in case it ever needed to be pulled out. I am also not 100% sure there needs to be access in that area to install the windshield. For time being I will leave the velcro which seems to be holding fine seeing as the guard is very light weight not supporting anything. I was planning on adding a couple sheet metal screws once I confirm this piece will not be in the way for windshield install.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131604&d=1594493473
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131605&d=1594493483

I was also able to drop off my body, hood, doors and trunk to my painter to start prepping the body before fitment. My painter will be fitting everything for me, he said he could start sanding and prepping which would help expedite the paint process down the road once I am ready to go. I took him up on the offer seeing as my body was just sitting in the garage collecting dust.

For anyone needing to transport the body only the flatbed seemed to work well. I did secure blankets and foam padding under the body where it touched the trailer. I also used multiple strap points to eliminate the body shimmering from the wind while in transport. All went well it survived a 45 minute drive on the freeway:D

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131601&d=1594493346

[edwardb]

Applaud your effort on the guard over the fuse panel. Tried to do something similar on my #7750 build. Haven't bothered on the builds since then. Guess I'm used the idea of the fuse panel location plus haven't experienced any problems. Yours doesn't hurt but you don't want brake fluid leaking in any situation. I think in general the Wilwood MC's are pretty reliable. I did have one on my Coupe that dripped slightly not longer after installed and first bled. Just enough to fill the rubber boot over time. Was a brand new MC and found a slightly defective seal. Other than that, I've had no issues with three cars and three MC's in that spot on each. Haven't heard a lot from others. For the water on the windshield post, what you want to do there is after final assemble seal the underside of where the post goes into the body. A good bead of silicone all around the post and pushed into the joint will keep water out. And yes I do think that's going to make your windshield bolts a little cumbersome to access and tighten. Maybe you have it so it can be moved out of the way temporarily?

[Fman]

Applaud your effort on the guard over the fuse panel. Tried to do something similar on my #7750 build. Haven't bothered on the builds since then. Guess I'm used the idea of the fuse panel location plus haven't experienced any problems. Yours doesn't hurt but you don't want brake fluid leaking in any situation. I think in general the Wilwood MC's are pretty reliable. I did have one on my Coupe that dripped slightly not longer after installed and first bled. Just enough to fill the rubber boot over time. Was a brand new MC and found a slightly defective seal. Other than that, I've had no issues with three cars and three MC's in that spot on each. Haven't heard a lot from others. For the water on the windshield post, what you want to do there is after final assemble seal the underside of where the post goes into the body. A good bead of silicone all around the post and pushed into the joint will keep water out. And yes I do think that's going to make your windshield bolts a little cumbersome to access and tighten. Maybe you have it so it can be moved out of the way temporarily?

Paul, thanks for the input, I was afraid that plate might get in the way for the windshield install. When I dropped my body off the painter mentioned not to permanently affix the fuse panel because he needs to drop it down in order to mount the windshield. The plate is only held on with velcro right now so it can easily be taken out. I might just leave it this way and see if it can be re-affixed after the windshield is mounted. Good to hear about the Wilwood MC's not having any leaking problems does not look like a fun project swapping one of those out once the body is on. I figured the plate is some cheap insurance just in case, hopefully I will be able to keep it mounted once the windshield is installed. If not it goes back into the scrap pile:D

[edwardb]

When I dropped my body off the painter mentioned not to permanently affix the fuse panel because he needs to drop it down in order to mount the windshield...

As long as you keep the area above the 2-inch tube and just to the right of the windshield mounting bracket clear, it's possible to reach in there to install and tighten the windshield bolts. Not necessary to drop the fuse panel in that case in my experience. Block that area (I did on my #7750 build unfotunately...) and yes, dropping the fuse panel is the only option. This picture is early in the wiring of #8674 and the area I'm describing is open.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/.highres/IMG_4109_zpspaa3nibw.jpg (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/a/91d1b235-3b11-4308-85a4-055dadcc1f9e/p/eae84981-0ec1-439b-8fc5-3b5cab03bbcb)

[Fman]

I am happy with the color match. Here is an outdoor and indoor photo

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131500&d=1594338709

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131499&d=1594338675

Mark, Just went ahead and ordered that hide, looks like the best deal going I could find. Pics look nice, hopefully I have enough to do the dash and center console. Appreciate the link!:D

[Fman]

I started to plot out my dash today, this is definitely a slow going process. I found myself staring at the dash with really no clue what I should do, then slowly the wheels started turning and I began to come up with a plan. My plan is to keep the dash simple with a modified comp layout, I ordered a New vintage switch panel for my toggle switches. It will be simple and functional for headlights, hazards, footbox blowers, and whatever else I want to wire into the switch. I also ordered some automotive leather hide to cover the dash that Mark Eaton recommended (thanks again Mark), looking forward to seeing this arrive later in the week.

After going through all the FFR parts they supplied I realized I wont be using anything they sent me other than the ignition switch and gauges. The indicator lights, toggle switches and dash covering do not seem to be of good quality I was hoping for so I am going to source out from different vendors.

Here are some links:

New vintage toggle switch panels:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/NVU-21101-01
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/NVU-21310-01

Automotive leather hide:
https://vod.ebay.com/vod/FetchOrderDetails?itemid=162592582983&transid=2019093791006&ul_noapp=true

I do have a few questions I was hoping to get some guidance on before I start cutting any holes. Any input would be appreciated or any tips I might be missing with the dash install.

The Russ Thompson turn signal, I am assuming I would want to install this before I cover the dash with leather?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131689&d=1594602652

The lower drivers side corner I want to confirm the body wont be covering up any of the gauge in the corner?

Does the steering shaft need to be aligned anywhere in particular inside the collar cut out? This is where it landed after I centered and leveled out the dash.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131690&d=1594602661

When aligning the dash center the dash level with the center cross bar leaving the 3/8-1/2" overlay at the ends?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131691&d=1594602692

[edwardb]

Some comments on your recent post, some editorial in nature:

- For the Russ Thompson turn signal assembly, first center the dash L-R in the steering column cutout. Once you have the height, then determine the cutout required. I allow enough space to pull the covering through and pie cut and glue on the back side. The bezel on the front will make sure the covering stays put. The bezel that works with the RT turn signal is from Mike Everson (Replicaparts) not RT. Unless he's offering them now, which is new to me.

- I personally would relocate some of your gauges. Your engine health gauges should be in front of you. So as you regularly sweep your gauges while driving, they're in your direct vision. I would definitely move oil pressure and water temp to where you have the clock and fuel gauge. In order of importance (at last my opinon): Oil pressure, water temp (maybe a tie between those two), voltage, fuel, clock.

- I agree the switches and indicator lights are kind of a mixed bag because mainly they don't all match. But quality wise I think they're fine. Many have used them. But count me as one who's changed some of them. But for appearance only. Not because I didn't think they would do the job.

- For the headlight switch, I hope you realize you're kind of jumping into the deep end of the pool by replacing that with a toggle switch panel. Have you looked at a schematic of the provided headlight switch and are ready to duplicate what it does? Controls running lights, headlights, gauge lights, courtesy lights, and dimming of the gauge lights although that doesn't work if you have Speedhut gauges. It gets direct battery power via the ignition switch. All but the headlights route through the fuse panel. For the headlights, the switch has its own internal re-settable circuit breaker which would need to be duplicated. None of it's rocket science. But just want to confirm you're OK with it. IMO, the nice chrome plated pull knob that controls everything is pretty clean and works well. BTW, those New Vintage switch panels are nice. That's a local company for me and did the custom switches for my Coupe build. Turned out great.

[Fman]

Some comments on your recent post, some editorial in nature:

- For the Russ Thompson turn signal assembly, first center the dash L-R in the steering column cutout. Once you have the height, then determine the cutout required. I allow enough space to pull the covering through and pie cut and glue on the back side. The bezel on the front will make sure the covering stays put. The bezel that works with the RT turn signal is from Mike Everson (Replicaparts) not RT. Unless he's offering them now, which is new to me.

- I personally would relocate some of your gauges. Your engine health gauges should be in front of you. So as you regularly sweep your gauges while driving, they're in your direct vision. I would definitely move oil pressure and water temp to where you have the clock and fuel gauge. In order of importance (at last my opinon): Oil pressure, water temp (maybe a tie between those two), voltage, fuel, clock.

- I agree the switches and indicator lights are kind of a mixed bag because mainly they don't all match. But quality wise I think they're fine. Many have used them. But count me as one who's changed some of them. But for appearance only. Not because I didn't think they would do the job.

- For the headlight switch, I hope you realize you're kind of jumping into the deep end of the pool by replacing that with a toggle switch panel. Have you looked at a schematic of the provided headlight switch and are ready to duplicate what it does? Controls running lights, headlights, gauge lights, courtesy lights, and dimming of the gauge lights although that doesn't work if you have Speedhut gauges. It gets direct battery power via the ignition switch. All but the headlights route through the fuse panel. For the headlights, the switch has its own internal re-settable circuit breaker which would need to be duplicated. None of it's rocket science. But just want to confirm you're OK with it. IMO, the nice chrome plated pull knob that controls everything is pretty clean and works well. BTW, those New Vintage switch panels are nice. That's a local company for me and did the custom switches for my Coupe build. Turned out great.

This definitely clarifies a lot, as always Paul I appreciate the info...

All my gauges are roughed in right now, subject to change location along with how I am going to run the Vintage switch panel. I was not aware of the complexity of the headlight switch, so I might have to use the supplied pull switch for headlights and the New vintage for my other accessories. I am sure some of the layout will be changing once I get all the parts in my hand and can start visualizing everything. Today was definitely a "get the ball rolling" day...

I did order RT bezel from Mike Everson back when I ordered the RT turn signal, Russ actually recommended it so hopefully it does the job, looks like a nice piece.

[GoDadGo]

Question:

Will you be able to get your hands in there, near the fuse block, to install the windshield?

[Fman]

Question:

Will you be able to get your hands in there, near the fuse block, to install the windshield?

More than likely not, going to have to come up with a Gen 2 revision or toss out the idea.

[Fman]

Have had very limited amount of time on the build lately, just a busy month. However, I had made some progress on my dash, so far the dash is my favorite part of this build - I like how you can customize it and fabricate some alum sheet metal for it. Definitely feels like a custom part of the build and so far I am glad I went with a blank dash to create my own vision. I am enjoying the metal work, the .040 sheets I bought are perfect for the lower dash box.

I did manage to cut all the gauge holes, and fabricate my lower dash panel box. My goal is to have the least amount of toggle switches possible on the main dash panel. I will only have ignition, horn and headlight switch on my main dash. The lower panel box will house the New Vintage toggle switch panel and Ron Francis battery shut off. I also wanted to be able to have my cup holders in front of the panel box which I was able to accomplish.

Dash gauge holes cut out, I am also adding a 10" grab bar for passenger and ordered the street works LED indicator lights for turn signals and high beam Edward B used on his build. I feel like this dash is just about what I was hoping for, there might be some little tweaks coming but overall I am liking the layout.

https://watsons-streetworks.com/product-category/lighting/interior-lighting/dash-indicators/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HK62V9J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used 2 1/16" and 4" hole saw for the gauge holes with a WEN drill press. These size holes seem about perfect once the dash is wrapped in leather. The WEN is a decent drill press for weekend warrior, multi speed and worked great for cutting the dash gauge holes.

https://www.amazon.com/WEN-4208-5-Speed-Drill-Press/dp/B00HQONFVE/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=WEN+bench+drill+press&qid=1595215826&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RZLFBT5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005LEZA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132134&d=1595214744

Lower dash box which will house the RF MS1 switch and new vintage toggle panel. When finished it will be covered in black leather. I added two L brackets on each side to secure it and be able to easily remove if needed. Will use some rivnuts for final assembly. I am still debating if I will run the NV panel on top and RF MS1 on bottom, or even moving the RF MS1 to the top of the box, still not completely sure on this yet.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132135&d=1595214758

Top shot of panel box, it tapers from approx 3 3/4" bottom to around 2 3/4" at the top.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132136&d=1595214770

This showed up today while I was working in the shop, the NV panel is a very nice piece! seems to be very high quality and was exactly what I was hoping for.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132137&d=1595214782

I also picked up this 18" Bender brake from harbor freight, it has been working great for bending the alum sheet metal.

https://www.harborfreight.com/18-inch-bending-brake-39103.html

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132138&d=1595214794

[Fman]

Hope everyone is doing well...

Made a little more progress on my dash, I just about have the dash layout completed and got my Russ Thompson turn signal mounted. I am going to more than likely run my headlight switch under the dash out of sight. I also am liking the grab handle I ordered, its beefy and comfortable to put your hands around. I do have a question about the Russ Thompson turn signal (please see attached pic) that maybe someone can answer for me?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132294&d=1595527510

I ended up putting the RF SW1 battery switch on bottom and the NV panel on top, the NVP is held on with rivnuts for easy removal if needed. I also ended up purchasing some flush mounted blind rivets from McMaster car that are flat and hopefully wont protrude through the leather when wrapped. Here is the link on them. And thanks again EdwardB for the rivet recommendation, they are going to work out great.

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/126/3518

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132295&d=1595527540

10" grab handle, still need to make a few brackets to re-inforce under the dash

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132298&d=1595527587

Street works LED indicator lights, recommended by EdwardB, looks like a nice quality part!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132297&d=1595527572

Russ Thompson turn signal, I do have a question about this. I have heard people are cutting this down to bring the wheel closer to the dash? Does this look like the correct distance from the dash? I have not done any modification to this yet.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132296&d=1595527559
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132299&d=1595527614

My leather hyde also arrived, this stuff looks great! Thanks again to Mark Eaton for the recommendation, I will have plenty to do my dash, lower console box and center shift console. I am going to leave it for a few days to let it relax and flatten as much as possible.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132300&d=1595527760

[Fman]

One other item I was able to get wrapped up was my rear brake lines, I was having issues with the supplied FFR lines rubbing on my rear tires and suspension components. I called Techna Fit and they made me a pair of custom lines, they now fit perfect with no rubbing issues. Techna fit is excellent to work with and will make you any custom brake or PS line you need.

I can now move forward and get my brake system bled out.

https://www.techna-fit.com/

Here was the original line
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132301&d=1595527778

Techa line installed
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132302&d=1595527795

[Fman]

Chipping away at my dash, I was able to get it mounted, cup holders installed, grab handle braced up and heated seat toggle switch placed. I am just about ready to strip it down and take it to upholstery shop to have it covered in leather.

I ended up using EdwardB's method for mounting the dash, I am hopeful the blind rivets will not be noticeable once the dash is covered with leather and a padded backing. The blind rivots were the flattest head I could find, I used three rivets per mount so they seem to be plenty strong. I ended up having six mounting bolts under the hoop aligned so they are accessible from underneath the dash if removal is ever needed once the body is on. Six is probably a little overkill but I added two extra on the passenger side, I wanted the grab handle to have a lot of support from downward force. I figure most people are going to grab it when they get into the car, which is what I am hoping rather than the windshield.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132993&d=1596514957
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132992&d=1596514941

Grab handle braced up, its rock solid. I used 1/8" 1" aluminum channel with a rivnut to the cross member.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132994&d=1596515088

Cup holders installed with heated seat toggle switches, I used the deeper style. The shallow style seemed more like a change holder than actual cup holder.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133001&d=1596516107
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132990&d=1596514915
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132989&d=1596514891
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132987&d=1596514833

[toadster]

looks great!

just an idea, I wonder if you could put some aluminum tape over your flat head rivets to smooth the transition further?

[Fman]

looks great!

just an idea, I wonder if you could put some aluminum tape over your flat head rivets to smooth the transition further?

Thanks Todd, work in progress... that tape definitely might be an option....

I think I am going to have to go with a countersunk head and taper the hole. Looking back I wish I would have went with a thicker dash, it would make it much easier to countersink a hole with more material to work with. I will be disappointed if you can see any of the rivet/screw head once the dash is covered. Starting over at this point would be my last resort I have at least a couple full days of work into my dash. I've enjoyed the process but it definitely has been very time consuming and slow going.

If anyone has an idea for a good countersunk screw head please post it up. I am going to order a few of these that Edwardb recommended and see if I can make them work.
https://www.mcmaster.com/90729A112/

[edwardb]

That tape definitely might be an option....

I think I am going to have to go with a countersunk head and taper the hole. Looking back I wish I would have went with a .090 thicker dash, it would make it much easier to countersink a hole with more material to work with. I will be disappointed if you can see any of the rivet/screw head once the dash is covered. Starting over at this point would be my last resort I have at least a couple full days of work into my dash. I've enjoyed the process but it definitely has been very time consuming and slow going.

If anyone has an idea for a good countersunk screw head please post it up. I am going to order a few of these that Edwardb recommended and see if I can make them work.
https://www.mcmaster.com/90729A112/

As I said in my PM, anything other than dead flat will show through. Tape may spread it out, but it will still show. Don't do it. Those 6-32's will work. So would 4-40's. Surprised you didn't find them at your local hardware. Mine has those sizes all day long. I also like these: https://www.mcmaster.com/97530A097/. I also routinely use plane old solid aluminum rivets and pound them with a hammer against a solid surface like a small anvil. Low tech but works really well. The aluminum is quite soft and bucks easily. https://www.mcmaster.com/97483A075/. The thickness of the material is fine. Don't feel like you have to bury the head of the screw (or rivet). Do the best you can. As long as it's holding against the tapered countersink, it's not going anywhere. One installed, whatever remains above file or sand flush. Those brackets are mainly holding in shear (up/down) versus normal stress. With three per and 6 brackets (!!!) you will be OK with a reasonable mechanical attachment.

[Straversi]

I didn’t use a thicker dash and was still able to get enough countersink with the hardware Paul (Edwardb) is recommending. If any of the head still protrudes, just grind it flush.
-Steve

[Fman]

As I said in my PM, anything other than dead flat will show through. Tape may spread it out, but it will still show. Don't do it. Those 6-32's will work. So would 4-40's. Surprised you didn't find them at your local hardware. Mine has those sizes all day long. I also like these: https://www.mcmaster.com/97530A097/. I also routinely use plane old solid aluminum rivets and pound them with a hammer against a solid surface like a small anvil. Low tech but works really well. The aluminum is quite soft and bucks easily. https://www.mcmaster.com/97483A075/. The thickness of the material is fine. Don't feel like you have to bury the head of the screw (or rivet). Do the best you can. As long as it's holding against the tapered countersink, it's not going anywhere. One installed, whatever remains above file or sand flush. Those brackets are mainly holding in shear (up/down) versus normal stress. With three per and 6 brackets (!!!) you will be OK with a reasonable mechanical attachment.

Copy that, I added a couple more brackets on the passenger side to help support the grab handle with no glove box they are easily accessible. I def could have missed those 6-32/4-40's at my local ace, will make another run by there this week. They are starting to get to know me by first name there, I feel like Norm on Cheers :D I make a couple stops per week there since I started building this car.

[edwardb]

Copy that, I added a couple more brackets on the passenger side to help support the grab handle with no glove box they are easily accessible. I def could have missed those 6-32/4-40's at my local ace, will make another run by there this week. They are starting to get to know me by first name there, I feel like Norm on Cheers :D I make a couple stops per week there since I started building this car.

I haven't progressed to first name basis at my local Ace. But I don't get the "Can I help you?" greeting any more. They just wave at me as I head to the hardware aisle. :p

[v1-vr]

Nice layout Travis Looks Great Switch panel is awesome

Just a thought for your rivet dilemma. TIG weld your brackets on the back side. It will turn the front side alittle blue from the heat but you are covering it anyway.
I'd offer to do it but waiting on a new torch and have to get a bottle of gas.

[Fman]

I was able to pick up some 6-32 recessed stainless screws and got them down into the dash, hopefully this will do the job to not have them exposed once the dash is covered. I also ended up replacing the rivets on the lower control box front panel. I was concerned about removing alum with the holes being tapered but they still seem to plenty strong.

I think I am finally just about done with the dash and ready to have it covered.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133145&d=1596820705
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133146&d=1596820728

[JohnK]

Looks good! As a final precaution, you might want to consider filling the heads with some body filler or JB Weld and sanding them flat to ensure that you don't get any unevenness telegraphing through the dash cover.

[Fman]

Looks good! As a final precaution, you might want to consider filling the heads with some body filler or JB Weld and sanding them flat to ensure that you don't get any unevenness telegraphing through the dash cover.

John, good idea, I have some bondo filler I could use that I think would work well for this application.

[Fman]

Was able to get some last details finalized yesterday, should be ready to strip the dash down and send off to my local upholstery shop.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133299&d=1596989887

I also was able to get the steering shaft length set for the RT turn signal bezel. I am glad I did not set it to the FFR manual setting when I installed the shaft and waited until I was at this point. I believe I have it set properly, it slowly needs to be tapped into the shaft to make sure the alum collar has enough space free to not contact the turn signal mechanism.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133300&d=1596989903

I used some bondo over the inset screws, sanded them down. It is about as flat I can get them

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133302&d=1596989929

I also got the lower control box panel box riv nut set and mounted along with some bondo on the front panel screws that were recessed

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133301&d=1596989915

I ended up mounting my 12v dual USB/aux charger on back panel between driver and passenger seat

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133303&d=1596989941

[toadster]

lookin awesome!!!

[Vspeeds]

Looking good Travis! But you need to get another steering wheel.

[Fman]

Looking good Travis! But you need to get another steering wheel.

Thanks Eddie...

Haha! That is FFRs new "Mad max" version they are now offering! driving gloves required :D

FFR still has no steering wheels to send out so they made me a sample wheel for fitting. Nice of them to send it to me, hopeful I will see a wheel by the end of the month.

[JB in NOVA]

Ha ha! I'm impressed with your "Mad max" steering wheel. I'm also waiting for my FFR steering wheel, and I'm tired of using a big crescent wrench to exercise the steering rack. Well done, Fman!

[v1-vr]

Nice Travis
Quality work you do

[Fman]

Hope everyone is doing well and if you live in Nor Cal, staying out of the smoke and heat!

Finally getting some build time in and I have been able to make a little bit more progress...

My dash is covered with the leather hyde I picked up, it is nice to see some fruits from your labor, I spent a lot of hours on the dash and I am pleasantly surprised I cant see anything under the leather! I guess even a blind squirrel can find a nut sometimes :-) The leather hyde quality is exactly what I was hoping for, even smells like a new car... I did make a last minute change and moved the headlight knob to the right side of the speedo. I was afraid of it hitting my hands being around the steering wheel and wanted everything around the wheel to be flat. I also moved the horn button from the left side to under the speedo.

I was also able to come up with a very basic clutch stop, mounted my breeze 1/2" vent line with charcoal canister and mounted the Aeromotive fuel filter. One other highlight was getting my brakes bled out, I now have a car with working brakes!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134314&d=1598416814
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134315&d=1598416832
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134316&d=1598416847

Clutch stop, simple but functional. Also totally adjustable the rubber stopper can go completely flat against 1/8" alum reinforcement plate if needed (by removing the nut). Can also be adjusted outward approx 1-1/4"

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134317&d=1598416858
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134318&d=1598416871

Breeze 1/2" vent line with sprinkler charcoal canister, Aeromotive 10 micron fuel filter

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134319&d=1598416985
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134320&d=1598416998

[toadster]

good choice on the filter :) i'm jealous now!

awesome job! coming together nicely!

[Nigel Allen]

Really, really nice work. Building the dash and doing the brake and fuel lines were some of my favourite bits. Day or night, those instruments always look great.

Cheers,

Nigel

[JB in NOVA]

Well done! The dash looks great.

[JohnK]

Looks awesome! The dash turned out amazing.

[Fman]

good choice on the filter :) i'm jealous now!

awesome job! coming together nicely!

Some cool guy I met on the forum recommended this filter.... just took his advice! :cool:

It is a nice setup, should be pretty simple to swap out a filter. For anyone interested in the filter - Aeromotive #12317

[GTBradley]

The clutch pedal stop is nice too, is that a hardware store item?

[Fman]

The clutch pedal stop is nice too, is that a hardware store item?

It is a hood stop for a Camaro and I used a 2 1/16" circular hole saw to cut the backing plate from 1/8" aluminum. The backside of the hood stop has a nut on it as well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XH7KJR1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005LEZA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[TMartinLVNV]

Looks great Fman. Fantastic work!

[Fman]

Looks great Fman. Fantastic work!

Terry, thank you... I have been referencing your build thread (and many others) to help me out. I am starting the wiring now, I have to admit I am a little intimidated by the entire wiring process. There seems to be quite a few guys adding more fuse panels, relays, grounding blocks, etc. to what FFR sends with the car trying to keep it as simple as possible. I am still awaiting my engine completion and until my engine is installed have come to a little bit of hault in the build process. If you or anyone else does have any tips on wiring please post it up!

[TMartinLVNV]

Are you using the autometer or classic gauges?

I really like my extra fuse box. It is only hot with the key in the on position. That way, if I leave my seat heaters on, USB acc plugged in, or cruise control on when I shut off the car, no power will be drained from the battery when off.

[JohnK]

Nice work on the clutch stop! I don't know yet if I'll need one but I had a similar idea using a swiveling leveling foot from McMaster (https://www.mcmaster.com/leveling-feet/leveling-mounts/mount-type~threaded-stud/adjustability~swivel/bolt-down-swivel-leveling-mounts-with-threaded-stud-9/) but the hood stop is brilliant.

[Fman]

Are you using the autometer or classic gauges?

I really like my extra fuse box. It is only hot with the key in the on position. That way, if I leave my seat heaters on, USB acc plugged in, or cruise control on when I shut off the car, no power will be drained from the battery when off.

I am using the classic gauges, also planning on using the RF battery switch. I will have to read over your build thread to take a look at what you ended up doing, sounds like a good setup!

[Fman]

I was able to spend a couple days working with my dad on the build, these are some special times, I really enjoy working with him on the car. I can't wait for him to take this car for a rip someday!

I gave him rivet duty and he did the entire cockpit area, he is now a certified pro rivet master! he did such a good job I told him he could come back and hit the trunk later on in the build:cool:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134401&d=1598586045

His finished product...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134402&d=1598586060

We also were able to get the HF 2 ton hoist put together

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134403&d=1598586084

Speaking of engines, I got a few pics from my engine builder today... the Dart 427 is starting to come to life!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134410&d=1598586743
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134411&d=1598586757

[Fman]

Visit this page for fresh air vent change (hose and coupling)
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?35778-Fmans-Dart-427-build-9818-Nor-Cal-Fresh-air-vent-change/page11

One other task I was able to accomplish was installing my footbox vents. I want to thank silver_pilate for giving me all the information to duplicate his system, it is mucho appreciated! He has been using this setup for awhile now with good results, you can get all of these items for around $120 all in. It is simple but seems like it is going to work great.

The only part I still need is some type of hose cushion clamp for a 3" hose, still searching around for something to hold them in place. I used some zip ties to temporarily hold them up.

Here is a link to all the parts:

Stainless duct clamps:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PQDRFVH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Blast gate:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223YO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Attwood bilge blower:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O0DE8K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

20' RV sewer hose:

EDIT: NOT USING THIS HOSE ANYMORE
https://www.ebay.com/itm/201997860428

Went to this stuff: Insulated and much better.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FXF1CXX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also used a couple small stainless buttonhead bolts with nylock nuts in each blast gate to hold them on (2 on each gate).

Drivers side

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134404&d=1598586120
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134405&d=1598586132

Blast gate, I ended up reversing the lever so it was on the same side as the set screw. It is very easy to open and close the vents. You do need to manually open and close them, there is no cable on them but that could be added very easily if desired.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134406&d=1598586148
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134407&d=1598586161

Passenger side

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134408&d=1598586174
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134409&d=1598586196

I was also able to get my elephant ears rivnuted to the F panel and cut the hole for the 3" footbox vent line.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134412&d=1598588322

A very productive week, I am reaching a point where I need my engine to move forward. I will be holding off on fuel lines, regulator, electrical grommet holes in firewall until my engine is installed and I can get a good visual on where I would like everything to go.

[TMartinLVNV]

I am using the classic gauges, also planning on using the RF battery switch. I will have to read over your build thread to take a look at what you ended up doing, sounds like a good setup!

If you choose to use a secondary "key on" fuse box, this is how I wired mine (with assistance of BigBlocker).

10 gauge wire with a 40 amp inline fuse going from the battery to under the dash near the regular fuse box. My 6 bay aux fuse box is mounted adjacent to the regular fuse box. 10 gauge ground wire to the frame.

The two 10 gauge wires going to a 50 amp rated relay. Relay wired to be closed** until activated by brown radio power wire in the "Radio/Heater/Wiper" bundle which is keyed on.

I have my cruise control (10 amp), two seat heaters (10 amps each) and USB (minimal amps) wired to the aux fuse box. I still have two bays in the aux box open with probably about 15 amps of capacity left. I think when I looked at a wiring amperage chart, the 10 gauge wire was actually good for 50 amps for the length that I ran even though I put a 40 amp fuse inline.

I actually have third 4 bay fuse box that is HAAT that I use just for my dash clock that I added. I can use it for radio memory as well if I ever decide to put one in.

**I used the wrong term in the above description above. I actually wired the relay to be "open" (electrons not flowing) until the key is on. That way if i leave something on, it will not kill be battery with the key off.

Car hasn't burned down yet :rolleyes:

[toadster]

One other task I was able to accomplish was installing my footbox vents. I want to thank silver_pilate for giving me all the information to duplicate his system, it is mucho appreciated! He has been using this setup for awhile now with good results, you can get all of these items for around $120 all in. It is simple but seems like it is going to work great.

The only part I still need is some type of hose cushion clamp for a 3" hose, still searching around for something to hold them in place. I used some zip ties to temporarily hold them up.

Here is a link to all the parts:

Stainless duct clamps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PQDRFVH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Blast gate: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223YO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Attwood bilge blower: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O0DE8K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
20' RV sewer hose: https://www.ebay.com/itm/201997860428

I also used a couple small stainless buttonhead bolts with nylock nuts in each blast gate to hold them on (2 on each gate).

A very productive week, I am reaching a point where I need my engine to move forward. I will be holding off on fuel lines, regulator, electrical grommet holes in firewall until my engine is installed and I can get a good visual on where I would like everything to go.

WOW looks amazing Travis! Great work by your dad too!!!

I'm tossing around the idea of those footbox vents, seems like a no brainer for $120!
assuming those you have to manually reach down and open/close them?

[Fman]

WOW looks amazing Travis! Great work by your dad too!!!

I'm tossing around the idea of those footbox vents, seems like a no brainer for $120!
assuming those you have to manually reach down and open/close them?

Hey thanks! yes they are a manual open and close gate. You could add some type ofcable to attach to the gate which would not be hard to do. I figure I will more than likely always leave them open during spring/summer and close them during the cooler months.

[460.465USMC]

Great progress, Fman! Hard to believe you've only had your kit for ~4 months. Very cool! I'm a bit jealous as I wait for mine to arrive.

I took a note on your foot box vents. Climate is a bit cooler up here in Spokane, but we surely have our hot days in July-Aug. I'm still following along. Keep up the great work.

[v1-vr]

Stewart Trans will be here tomorrow yea
Your thread has been so helpful with great ideas and lots of pictures along with email address of suppliers in getting prepared. Thank You Travis
Hope GrassValley gets your power done soon. Looks like a beefy lower end.
DaveThanks

[Fman]

Glad my posts are giving some people a few ideas, most have been taken from other builders on this forum. I am also currently doing the same following other build threads trying to figuring this car out. Currently starting to plan out my wiring, just starting to look over the wiring schematic... good times ahead:D

v1-vr and 460.465USMC looking forward to seeing your builds...:D

[Fman]

Slow week... did get a little more electrical work done and ran rear harness, wired ignition switch and also installed my Aeromotive stealth in tank fuel pump and ran my first short line of Fragola PTFE steel braided line. I did get a few more engine pics from my builder he passed along, slowly coming together.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134713&d=1599189164
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134714&d=1599189184
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134715&d=1599189205
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134716&d=1599189224

[Fman]

Hope everyone is doing well and staying safe, California is having a terrible fire season, work has been ridiculously busy and the air quality has been the worse I have ever seen.

This week I was able to make a little more progress on my build, I completed my Fragola PTFE fuel lines, Aeromotive pump, filter and pressure regulator install. I chose to run Fragola 3/8" PTFE lines the entire run with no hard lines. The Fragola line is very strong and durable, not expecting any issues with it more than likely this stuff will be around long after I am gone. I also found a local label shop to make some labels for my CNC triple reservoir and added a vent cap to my diff breather line.

My next hurdle is wiring, I have run front and rear harness, completed my gauge wiring harness and am starting to move into the IDIDIT and RT turn signal. My engine is just about done, we are waiting on some serpentine pulleys/PS pump from Levy Racing to arrive. Hopefully by end of next week my builder will be able to finish it up.

3/8" Fragola lines with Aeromotive pressure regulator

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135056&d=1600143174

Nothing fancy here, definitely not the most glamorous fuel line run but hopefully functional

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135058&d=1600143200
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135059&d=1600143214

Aeromotive 10 micron fuel filter, Aeromotive stealth fuel pump

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135057&d=1600143187

CNC Triple with alum labels installed

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135054&d=1600143134

Vent line cap, $6 and good to go.
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-924-284-Axle-Vent/dp/B06XHBY38X/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=differential+breather+cap&qid=1600144137&sr=8-1

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135055&d=1600143153

Here is my next wiring venture, thanks again to Paul and Dave for the information on these items, now I have a much better idea of what I need to do.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135047&d=1600126231

[JohnK]

Nice work on the fuel lines. They look great! You must be excited to get the engine. It looks like it's coming together very nicely.

[JB in NOVA]

Looking good! Nice work on the fuel lines.

[Fman]

Nice work on the fuel lines. They look great! You must be excited to get the engine. It looks like it's coming together very nicely.

Thank you John, nothing near as nice as what you are putting together your SS lines look amazing!

The wiring is going to be my biggest challenge with this build, feel very fortunate to have the more experienced builders here for help!

[nucjd19]

I have spent the last hour or so between work catching up on your thread. First let me say just amazing work. Your powder coat is beautiful and your attention to detail is impressive. I have already earmarked your clutch stop and air vents for my build ( 11/14 finish date ). Thanks for the detailed explanations and links :)

[Fman]

I have spent the last hour or so between work catching up on your thread. First let me say just amazing work. Your powder coat is beautiful and your attention to detail is impressive. I have already earmarked your clutch stop and air vents for my build ( 11/14 finish date ). Thanks for the detailed explanations and links :)

Thank you, I am a newbie just learning myself learning as I go. As I have mentioned before just about everything in my build thread has been taken from some other builder on this forum. Maybe my claim to fame will be my $3 clutch stop ;)

I hope my thread helps you along your journey and congratulations on your order!

[Fman]

I was able to spend a little more time today wiring up the IDIDIT relay, RT turn signal, and started running my accessory wires. I definitely will be picking up a grounding bar, can see that will be needed. I have most of the "core" wiring hooked up, if it actually works TBD when I put a battery on the car.

RT and IDIDIT important info, I was having problems figuring out the wiring for the IDIDIT relay, and RT turn signal and the host of other wires coming from the dash harness. Edwardb and Papa gave me a lifeline and explained how the wiring works along with what switches RT and IDIDIT were replacing. I wanted to post up EdwardB's reply so it is in my build thread for others to use down the road. I can guarantee in a few months I won't remember how to do it again:p I really can't thank them enough, would have been stuck without there feedback!

"Exactly. Nearly everything is in the RF chassis wiring harness schematic.

- The three turn signal wires on Russ's assembly replace the turn signal switch in the RF schematic. Wired exactly as pictured there. The grey feed wire is attached to the common lead. The dark green (left) and light blue (right) to the appropriate other two wires.

- Assuming you want the button on the end of the turn signal stalk to do the high/low beams, there are the two wires from the switch out of Russ's assembly. One goes to ididit switch tan wire. The other to ground. Doesn't matter which. Pushing the button grounds the tan wire and switches the ididit switch.

- For the actual high and low headlight wiring, the iditit switch replaces the dimmer switch in the RF schematic. Wire exactly as pictured there using the purple, green and yellow wires from the ididit switch. You just need to add +12V battery power and ground for the ididit switch. You did get the instructions that came with it, right? Shows and explains pretty clearly. Just got that piece for my new build and it seems exactly suited to our needs. Much simpler than putting together the circuit yourself like the schematics that came with your RT turn signal assembly. And does the same thing, e.g. high/low beam switch plus flash to pass.

From TedG's build a very nice wiring schematic to simplify the IDIDIT/RT turn signal wiring. Thanks Ted!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172586&d=1663420155

Here is a pic of the IDIDIT relay, RT turn signal and accessory bundle from the RF dash harness

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135047&d=1600126231

The rats nest of wires forming behind my dash, I am going to hold off on housekeeping until I confirm everything is working properly. I am 96.4% confident I did everything right....

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135118&d=1600226125

Started to pull my footbox blower wires through along with the accessorie bundle from RF harness. I am going to be using the heater, wiper, and radio hot wires to power my heated seats, USB charger and footbox vents.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135117&d=1600226109

[JohnK]

Hey Travis, thanks for posting the question about the Ididit relay. I'm a bit behind you but I'm planning to use that same Ididit relay with the RT turn signal so I'm very thankful that you've documented the wiring of that.

[Fman]

I was able to pick up my engine today along with my tk0600 and QT bellhousing. The engine has a few bolt on items remaining to be completed which I will take care of myself. Unfortunately after I got home and was looking over the engine I noticed the oil pan is 8" deep which I think is not going to work and hang down below the frame rail. I am a little bummed about this because I requested a 7.5" deep oil pan. Not a huge deal but a little bit of a buzz kill of the hype of the new engine.... Oh well, things happen and we will have to switch it out. If anyone has a link for a good 7.5" pan please send it my way, I found a Moroso 20534 that I think will get the job done.

I was also able to get my tko600 tailshaft cut off and started coming up with a game plan for mating up the TKO an QT BH. My engine builder already spec'd everything for me and installed my clutch, he said just bolt it together and should be good to go. The clutch fork is the only thing I have to do some more research on, I believe it needs to be at 90 degress with BH attached to the engine and TOB touching clutch? Maybe someone could confirm this is how I should do it? It seems pretty straight forward but definitely want to make sure I do this correctly.

Here is the Dart 427 with the Edelbrock Pro Flo 4

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135571&d=1601173124
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135572&d=1601173132

Here is the Canton oil pan at 8" deep, I ran a level on it and it definitely looks too low to me...... bumma! my engine builder wants me to install everything and see where everything lands. He said he would install another pan later on if needed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135574&d=1601173188
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135589&d=1601178209

Tko tailshaft cut down, I ended up using a sawzall to cut it

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135577&d=1601173273
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135576&d=1601173257

Looks like another trip to Ace, these bolts that were sent with my transmission mounts are not even close to being long enough. Not quite sure what they were thinking on this one? EDIT: these short two bolts are for the underside of the mount, the two longer bolts that attach to the transmission do not come with the mounts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135578&d=1601173294

[Fman]

Couple other little items, I was able to get my grounding bar installed which helped clean up a little more wiring.

Here is the link for the grounding bar:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KVWCY19/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135575&d=1601173231

IDIDIT relay is also mounted to firewall now temporarily held up with some heavy duty velcro. Will add a couple stainless bolts later on, better having it tucked out of the way to clear up some space behind the dash.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135584&d=1601175566

Mike Fortes hydraulic clutch setup

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135580&d=1601175317

[D Stand]

I purchased this one for my ford racing 427. It fits perfect and I hear these guys built the original cobra pans.. It is part number 155-55356


http://aviaid.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/media/pans/155-55356.gif

[Fman]

Today was a fun day, I want to thank Dave (V1-Vr) and my dad for helping me get the engine installed. Also want give a shout out to Elliott at Mustang Corral and Gordon (Levy Racing) for giving me phone a friend to make sure everything was done properly.

Overall a few small challenges but in the end everything went great! Still have plenty of items to take care of but slowly getting closer to my first start!:D

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135834&d=1601612484
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135835&d=1601612498
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135836&d=1601612510

We made sure engine was leveled before tightening down motor mounts

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135837&d=1601612527
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135838&d=1601612540

[JB in NOVA]

Nice! It looks great. Looking forward to your first start.

[JohnK]

Congratulations on getting the engine in. Looks great!

[Fman]

Thanks fellas, it definitely is nice to have her in the cradle. The harbor freight load leveler worked fine other than the crappy plastic handle they use on it. That handle is a joke, needs to be replaced with a metal handle that can sustain the force of turning the handle. The two ton engine hoist worked great.

I have a long punch list of items to still take care of but starting to see the light.

[460.465USMC]

Sweet! Great milestone reached. That motor looks like it's begging to roar to life. Keep up the great work.

[jiriza84641]

Motor looks good there at home!

[TMartinLVNV]

Fman, that thing is going to be a beast. My little baby 347 scares me. I can't imagine driving a car with the power that yours will have. Your engine bling choices all came together really well. Everything compliments each other without look gaudy. I am happy with my Holley Sniper, but I do sometimes think about the Edelbrock multiport FI setup. It seems to be a great setup from all of the reviews that I have read.

[Fman]

Fman, that thing is going to be a beast. My little baby 347 scares me. I can't imagine driving a car with the power that yours will have. Your engine bling choices all came together really well. Everything compliments each other without look gaudy. I am happy with my Holley Sniper, but I do sometimes think about the Edelbrock multiport FI setup. It seems to be a great setup from all of the reviews that I have read.

Terry, thank you I appreciate the motivating words... so far everything is slowly coming together. The engine cam on this 427 is on the mild side but still right around 480-500 HP. I am hoping the Pro Flo 4 will live up to the feedback I got from a few guys running it who all seem to really like the setup. Time will tell, I will definitely give a full report on how the pro flo 4 ends up working out.

[KDubU]

Engine looks fantastic! Congrats on this milestone. I am also interested in how the Pro Flo 4 performs for you. From reading, it seems like a great solution.

[Fman]

Chipping away at my punch list, still lots to do but checked off a few more items. I was able to get my serpentine belt system installed with Alternator and Jones Racing PS pump. Still waiting for the lines to arrive but everything is mounted. I was also able to get Fortes throttle linkage installed and hydraulic clutch set up. Still have to fill and bleed the system but everything is mounted and ready to go.

If anyone notices any issues please red flag them for me. Everything I installed pretty much has no directions other than pics I could find online.

Serpentine belt system all set up. The Jones PS pump comes with a cooler and remote reservoir which I installed. This complete serpentine system can be purchased from Gordon Levy, he has been excellent to work with.
http://lrclassicsllc.com/

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136088&d=1602212113
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136090&d=1602213737
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136089&d=1602212230

Forte's throttle linkage, everything seems buttery smooth
https://fortesparts.com/product/mechanical-throttle-linkage-kit/

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136085&d=1602212057
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136086&d=1602212079


Forte's hydraulic clutch setup - I ended up allowing 3/16" clearance between the TOB and clutch pressure plate diaphragm springs, this is what Forte recommended.
https://fortesparts.com/?s=hydraulic+clutch+kit

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136084&d=1602212044
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136083&d=1602212027

[mark jones]

great job you are doing on your kit. It's wonderful to know there are so many Cobras close to where I live in Petaluma. Hoping to get one going my self. Searching for a place to build one. A question I have, pardon me but I see these copper sleeved studs sticking out of the sheet metal, what are they?

[Sdonnel]

Do yourself a favor. In order to make sure you have the clutch actuator rod cut to the right length, get in and push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor. Make sure the piston stays inside the housing and none of the O-rings are visible. It can lead to rides on a rollback. Ask me how I know.

Scott

[Fman]

great job you are doing on your kit. It's wonderful to know there are so many Cobras close to where I live in Petaluma. Hoping to get one going my self. Searching for a place to build one. A question I have, pardon me but I see these copper sleeved studs sticking out of the sheet metal, what are they?

Thank you, as you probably can tell I am learning as I go. This forum has been a huge help for me, first time I have ever tackled this big of a project before.

The coppered sleeved studs you are referring to are called Clecos, they are basically a temporarily rivet that can be removed and installed instantly. A must have to build one of these cars, I have used them countless times throughout this build.

[Fman]

Do yourself a favor. In order to make sure you have the clutch actuator rod cut to the right length, get in and push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor. Make sure the piston stays inside the housing and none of the O-rings are visible. It can lead to rides on a rollback. Ask me how I know.

Scott

Scott, are you referring to the master or slave cylinder? I am assuming this can only be done after the system has been bled out? Do you have a clutch stop installed on your build? How far forward should the slave arm move for full clutch engagement?

[JB in NOVA]

Fman, for what it's worth, I just bled my hydraulic clutch today and here is how it looks at both extremes of pedal travel:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136112&d=1602298989 (at rest)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136113&d=1602299008 (fully depressed)

My pedal basically hits the floor at full travel, and I don't see any piston exposure or O-ring exposure. I adjusted the MC set screw (bolt?) a bit to ensure full engagement of the clutch well before it hits the floor. I'm average height and don't want to have to work that hard to shift gears!

Obviously, I'm just a newbie, so take my comments accordingly.

[Railroad]

I think the advise is for the slave cyl.
Good luck,

[Sdonnel]

That’s correct. My mistake. It was for the external slave cylinder. I did install a simple pedal
Stop once I knew the clutch was disengaged. A little piece of kind to know it won’t happen again.

Scott

[nucjd19]

Fman do you know where to get that awesome air filter. I am looking for that exact one. Thanks!!!


I was able to pick up my engine today along with my tk0600 and QT bellhousing. The engine has a few bolt on items remaining to be completed which I will take care of myself. Unfortunately after I got home and was looking over the engine I noticed the oil pan is 8" deep which I think is not going to work and hang down below the frame rail. I am a little bummed about this because I requested a 7.5" deep oil pan. Not a huge deal but a little bit of a buzz kill of the hype of the new engine.... Oh well, things happen and we will have to switch it out. If anyone has a link for a good 7.5" pan please send it my way, I found a Moroso 20534 that I think will get the job done.



I was also able to get my tko600 tailshaft cut off and started coming up with a game plan for mating up the TKO an QT BH. My engine builder already spec'd everything for me and installed my clutch, he said just bolt it together and should be good to go. The clutch fork is the only thing I have to do some more research on, I believe it needs to be at 90 degress with BH attached to the engine and TOB touching clutch? Maybe someone could confirm this is how I should do it? It seems pretty straight forward but definitely want to make sure I do this correctly.

Here is the Dart 427 with the Edelbrock Pro Flo 4

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135571&d=1601173124
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135572&d=1601173132

Here is the Canton oil pan at 8" deep, I ran a level on it and it definitely looks too low to me...... bumma! my engine builder wants me to install everything and see where everything lands. He said he would install another pan later on if needed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135574&d=1601173188
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135589&d=1601178209

Tko tailshaft cut down, I ended up using a sawzall to cut it

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135577&d=1601173273
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135576&d=1601173257

Looks like another trip to Ace, these bolts that were sent with my transmission mounts are not even close to being long enough. Not quite sure what they were thinking on this one? EDIT: these short two bolts are for the underside of the mount, the two longer bolts that attach to the transmission do not come with the mounts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135578&d=1601173294

[Fman]

nucjd19, I picked up that air cleaner from Ansen valve covers, they can custom make you any graphic you desire. I did the air cleaner as a set with my valve covers, great guys to work with and there prices are very reasonable.

https://www.ansenvalvecovers.com/

[Fman]

That’s correct. My mistake. It was for the external slave cylinder. I did install a simple pedal
Stop once I knew the clutch was disengaged. A little piece of kind to know it won’t happen again.

Scott

Do you know how far the clutch fork should extend for full clutch engagement or does it just bottom out?

Thanks for the tip, I will definitely take a look at this once I bleed out the clutch.

[nucjd19]

Thank you for the link Fman. I know now where to get my air filter and valve covers. Much appreciated!

[John Ibele]

Great looking work so far, Travis, and man are you making fast progress! I haven't decided how to do my vents yet, but yours look clean and straightforward ... a good example to bookmark and copy. Thanks and good luck as you get ready to turn the key :)

[Fman]

I was able to take a few more steps up the mountain... I got my FFR headers, Gas'n pipes, driveline installed, fluids filled in IRS center diff, tko600, shifter and my engine ground strap attached to the frame. I was also able to fine tune in my Forte throttle linkage, the adjustable bracket in the footbox was touching the top of the footbox panel at full throttle. This made me a little nervous so I ended up shaving off (1/16-1/8) top of the bracket to clear the top of the footbox, all good now.

I also had a fail bleeding out my Forte hydraulic clutch, at full extension the slave cylinder center piston came out, pivoted and got jammed with the clutch fork compressed. It was a little of a debacle but my dad and I were able to get everything apart, luckily I don't think I did any damage to the slave cylinder or the piston. This was my fault, I cut the linkage shaft too short. I contacted Forte and he told me to add 1/2" in length with a new bolt to get it dialed in correctly. Live and learn, part of the process....

Installing the driveline was a complete headache, what I thought would be a half hour job turned into three hours. A couple tips, the transmission needs to be resting against the cross member in order to achieve the straightest line of site to slide in the driveshaft. It was still a struggle to get the driveshaft to slide in and a relief when it went in, I read one thread about someone actually taking there engine back out to get it in. I also removed the center donut, I really cant see how you could get it in with the donut on but Tremec does say it is possible to do it. Upon my research most seem to just take it out.

Here is a pic of the donut before and after removed. Be very careful removing it, I used two needle nose pliers on each side and avoided pinching the outer part of the seal. With a few good tugs it came out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136332&d=1602727309

Donut removed, a good idea to inspect the inner seal to make sure it is not folded over or damaged.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136333&d=1602727330

Driveshaft installed, I ended up using three spacers from Forte to get the angle almost straight. I still need to run the Tremec app on it to confirm it is within specs, more on this to come. I ended up doing 50 ft/lbs on the six bolts on the center diff adaptor plate and 80 ft/lbs on the four bolts holding the driveshaft. I also used blue loctite on all of them.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136334&d=1602727347

Forte spacers

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136335&d=1602727372

I used 75w-85 (3/4 qt top off) for the rear IRS and AC Delco synchromesh for the TKO600 (almost 3 qts). One surprise is when I found out Ford is now filling the center diff before shipping, it was about 3/4 qt down before coming out the fill plug. I called FFR and they confirmed for me to top it off and no need to add the friction modifier as Ford is now doing this.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136336&d=1602727386

Also got my FFR gearshfter mounted to the Tremec 600, it looks like a nice shifter. Probably will end up replacing the shift ball with something different.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136344&d=1602731599

Shizzzel!!! my Gas'n Pipes arrived.... as many have mentioned these are a work of art. Totally worth the five month wait, the craftsmanship is incredible. I also installed my FFR stainless headers, my engine builder recommended a Felpro 1415 gasket anti-seize on each bolt and 1" long 6 pt header bolts. He mentioned I would need to re-check a couple times after a few heat cycles.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136337&d=1602727403

[toadster]

dang that's lookin legit Travis!!! nice job!

[JohnK]

The pipes look fantastic Travis!

[JB in NOVA]

Nice work! I can almost hear your engine starting now.

[Fman]

I was able to get a few hours in this week on the build, got my starter installed, plug wires done, -AN 6/10 PS lines finished and my clutch bled out and working. My first start punch list is starting to get smaller, just a couple more small items on the engine to take care of then I will dive into completing my wiring and getting the EFI all hooked up.

I picked up this plug wire divider which has a nice clean look to it, really does a nice job of organizing the wires and keeping them away from the headers.
https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Machined-Aluminum-Plug-Wire-Divider-Satin/broncoperformanceignition

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136625&d=1603333300

-6AN and -10AN steel braded PS lines are all finished and PS pump filled and primed, so far no leaks in the system. The high pressure line is AN -6 PTFE line. The -10AN is the larger hose coming from the reservoir into the PS pump.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136626&d=1603333319

PS pump cooler hooked up and ready to go

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136627&d=1603333336

Alslo had a great weekend down in San Clemente, my wife and I celebrated our 27th anniversary. We hit up a Cars and Coffee on Saturday and got to see a rare Koenigsegg Regera, only a 2.5 million dollar car! Makes me feel a little better about splurging for the 427:cool: If you ever get a chance to visit a C&C down in So. Cal make sure and do it, they had over 600 cars there ranging from a VW to Lambo.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136628&d=1603334573

[bobm488]

Looks good, you will love the Gas'n Pipes. I was at the Cars and Coffee last weekend as well; I was amazed how many nice cars were there.

[Fman]

Just about finished with my first start punch list, I was able to get my radiator re-installed with Boig cool pipes and mount the overflow reservoir. I also got my coil mounted and battery installed with my ground wires all completed. My only tasks remaining are to fill the radiator, 4awg battery positive wiring and wire my Pro Flo 4 EFI.

Boig cool pipes, excellent quality and the fit was perfect. I ended up using T bolt clamps over the worm drive clamps. The T bolt clamps came recommended by a few different people and they did not disappoint. They are stainless, good quality and really put a secure clamp on the hose.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136816&d=1603834134

I was pleasantly surprised the boig pipes cleared my power steering cooler. Kind of dumb luck on this one, but I will take it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136817&d=1603834150

Here is the Vibrant Performance T bolt clamp with the boig cool pipes and FFR radiator. If you want to use this setup you will need two different clamps, the 2789 and 2790. I used 4 packs of the 2789 and one pack of the 2790. The 2790 is a larger clamp that is needed for the lower water pump port. All the other fittings will take the 2789 clamps.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-2789
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-2790

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136818&d=1603834170
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136820&d=1603834346

I mounted my coil at back of the engine, I think this will be a good spot to tie into my CDI box and is away from direct engine heat.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136819&d=1603834202

Group 51 battery installed along with my 4awg ground wires.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136821&d=1603835333

[edwardb]

The Boig tubes look great. Have them on my Coupe build and very happy with them. Good choice on the T-clamps. Those things work great. One suggestion. After a few heat cycles, go back and snug them up one more time. I've usually found that necessary. Shouldn't have to touch them again after that.

[JB in NOVA]

Very nice! Looking great.

[Fman]

The Boig tubes look great. Have them on my Coupe build and very happy with them. Good choice on the T-clamps. Those things work great. One suggestion. After a few heat cycles, go back and snug them up one more time. I've usually found that necessary. Shouldn't have to touch them again after that.

Thank you, I will definitely put that on my check list!

[Fman]

There have been some high's and low's over the last week for me on the build. I was able to get my engine fired up, running great and then 5 minutes later my thermostat water neck started dumping anti freeze. I installed the neck so all on me, the frustrating part of this entire process is I have replaced the gasket now three times and I still have a small leak. After researching why this was happening there is a trick to using RTV to hold the t-stat in place so it does not move around while installing the neck on the manifold. I did this on my third try and still have a slight leak, after researching what water neck was sent to me it was a $12 China model that is going to be replaced by a Ford OEM model arriving this week. This has been a little bit frustrating but I am hopeful this week I will get it sealed up and leak free. I was able to move the car forward out the garage and back in which is a good sign the drivetrain is moving in the right direction.

In meantime I was able to test my fuel system with air to confirm no leaks before I started. I also had my BIL visiting last weekend who helped me align the front and rear IRS, got my rear trunk panels put together and got my steering wheel centered. Once I get the water neck sealed up I am ready for a go-kart test ride. I will definitely post up a video once all is stabilized and leak free!

Here is the Fragola fuel line test kit, one suggestion to anyone using -AN fittings is to use lube on all the threaded connections. This will make a huge difference for you and will avoid stripping out the fittings.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137369&d=1604967044

I Plugged off the return line and fuel line to PF4 rail, the nice thing about testing entire system is you also test the fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter for leaks.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137370&d=1604967062
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137371&d=1604967084

I ran pressure up to 62 lbs of air, it held for 15 mins and this confirmed I was leak free.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137372&d=1604967105

String alignment, my BIL races cars and does this on the track often. He said I am well within specs to drive the car with no issues... cant thank him enough for the help!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137373&d=1604967118

[Fman]

Here is where I installed my CDI box

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137376&d=1604967175

I also installed a 150AMP AN fuse in my Alternator wire. I am not sure why RF does not do this because the Alternator wire is not fused at all, it would be a bad day if that wire back fed and melted down.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137374&d=1604967130

The Pro Flo 4 EFI requires a relay if you are using a fuel pump over 10 amps. I ended up wiring in this weatherproof 30 AMP relay for the fuel pump.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137378&d=1604968579

Rear trunk is all put together

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137375&d=1604967148

If you live in Commifornia you will need a PCV valve to pass SBC100 inspection so I ended up installing one

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137379&d=1604969363

[JB in NOVA]

Fman, your build is looking amazing! Very clean and professional-like. Off-topic question: what is your hydraulic lift system? I think I'm ready to upgrade from jack stands.

[Fman]

Fman, your build is looking amazing! Very clean and professional-like. Off-topic question: what is your hydraulic lift system? I think I'm ready to upgrade from jack stands.

This leaky water neck is going to put me in the crazy house... fingers crossed I can get it figured out this week!

JB, highly recommend a lift if you like working on cars.... game changer for sure on all counts. Your back and knees will also appreciate it! Here is the lift I purchased, it was about $600 to install it and another $300 for electrician to wire it for me. I went with this lift because it is wider at 115" which is nice to be able to get the doors open easier. The lift is made by VSG who also owns Rotary and Direct lifts. One suggestion would be to make sure you get ALI certified lift, there are some on the market today who don't have this certification.

I have had my Tundra up on the lift with no issues and it weighs around 5600 lbs.

http://shopequipmentlift.com/two-post-lifts/apex-pl10/

[TMartinLVNV]

This leaky water neck is going to put me in the crazy house... fingers crossed I can get it figured out this week!

JB, highly recommend a lift if you like working on cars.... game changer for sure on all counts. Your back and knees will also appreciate it! Here is the lift I purchased, it was about $600 to install it and another $300 for electrician to wire it for me. I went with this lift because it is wider at 115" which is nice to be able to get the doors open easier. The lift is made by VSG who also owns Rotary and Direct lifts. One suggestion would be to make sure you get ALI certified lift, there are some on the market today who don't have this certification.

I have had my Tundra up on the lift with no issues and it weighs around 5600 lbs.

http://shopequipmentlift.com/two-post-lifts/apex-pl10/

Fman, you are really close. I had the same problem with my water neck. Except mine was leaking while driving. It is amazing what a mess that can cause underneath of your car and down the right frame tube. I had mine on and off about 3 times as well. I think that you are on the right track with your components now. I was using the Mr Gasket chrome water neck. The parts that I ended up using that was finally leak free:

Ford Performance water neck with Felpro gasket
Thermostat held in place with RTV (3 little dabs is all you need) and let sit overnight. You are correct that this keeps it in place when mounting it up.

Good luck. I also lost a LOT of time on this. Don't forget to snug the two bolts up after a few heat cycles.

[Fman]

Fman, you are really close. I had the same problem with my water neck. Except mine was leaking while driving. It is amazing what a mess that can cause underneath of your car and down the right frame tube. I had mine on and off about 3 times as well. I think that you are on the right track with your components now. I was using the Mr Gasket chrome water neck. The parts that I ended up using that was finally leak free:

Ford Performance water neck with Felpro gasket
Thermostat held in place with RTV (3 little dabs is all you need) and let sit overnight. You are correct that this keeps it in place when mounting it up.

Good luck. I also lost a LOT of time on this. Don't forget to snug the two bolts up after a few heat cycles.

What you purchased is exactly what I will be using, even my BIL who helped me the second try said I have a bad water neck. Thanks for the tip about rechecking the bolts, I will definitely do that!

[460.465USMC]

Wow! It's really coming together nicely! Congrats! Looking forward to the video.

[Fman]

Finally some success, fourth time is a charm... my leaking water neck is now sealed up! Amazing what a good part can do, the Ford Racing water neck fit perfect and no leaks!!!

I was also waffling on upgrading my overflow tank and cooling fan, figured now is much easier to do it then waiting after the body is on. The FFR tank is less than 1 qt (.91) I picked up a 2 qt Canton, I like the extra holding capacity. I also did some research on the FFR cooling fan, it is rated at 2170 CFM, the minimum rating for a V8 is 2500 CFM so I decided not to chance anything and picked up a Flex-a-lite lowboy 3000 CFM puller. Both were a very easy install and now I feel confident I have maximum cooling capability.

Here is the Flex-a-lite fan, rated at 3000 CFM. It is also a little quieter than the FFR and draws the same amount of amps.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-238

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137507&d=1605222129
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137508&d=1605222145

Canton 2 qt overflow tank, it also has a nice site gauge on the side of it which lets you know where the current level is
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctr-80-201

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137509&d=1605222158

Final picture of Engine after wiring is cleaned up

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137506&d=1605222110

And here is a video of my first non-leak start up, I also was happy to see my temperatures are stabilizing. I was also able to go-kart around the neighborhood.... I am still alive, nothing caught on fire and I made it home. Transmission shifted good, clutch felt good, so far everything is moving in the right direction!

I still need to adjust my IAC down, it is high at 48% right now, that will be my next task on the EFI.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WzV11uZDsGA

[JohnK]

That's awesome. Congratulations!

[TMartinLVNV]

Not leaving drips of anything on your driveway is priceless. Congratulations! It is sounding great!

[CDXXVII]

Just an FYI. My local BAR referee required a closed PCV system. This meant a PCV valve plumbed as yours is to a vacuum port and a breather on the other valve cover plumbed to the air filter. One thing my inspector pointed out ahead of time is that your hoses need to be rated for the PCV system. On my hoses the PCV side is identified with ridges along the hose. On the air cleaner side my hose I'm pretty sure it's printed right on it. The best thing I did is contact the BAR referee ahead of time and took a few minutes to discuss my build and his requirements. Did the same thing with CHP and Brake/Lamp/Safety inspection.

If you live in Commifornia you will need a PCV valve to pass SBC100 inspection so I ended up installing one

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137379&d=1604969363[/QUOTE]

[Fman]

Just an FYI. My local BAR referee required a closed PCV system. This meant a PCV valve plumbed as yours is to a vacuum port and a breather on the other valve cover plumbed to the air filter. One thing my inspector pointed out ahead of time is that your hoses need to be rated for the PCV system. On my hoses the PCV side is identified with ridges along the hose. On the air cleaner side my hose I'm pretty sure it's printed right on it. The best thing I did is contact the BAR referee ahead of time and took a few minutes to discuss my build and his requirements. Did the same thing with CHP and Brake/Lamp/Safety inspection.

If you live in Commifornia you will need a PCV valve to pass SBC100 inspection so I ended up installing one

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137379&d=1604969363[/QUOTE]

Thanks for that info I appreciate it, my plan was to use another air cleaner for the other loop to pass inspection. I don't want to drill another hole in this one, it already has MAT sensor in the back of it for the EFI.

[JB in NOVA]

Oh wow, that sounds really good. Congrats! That mechanical throttle looks sharp!

[jiriza84641]

I was able to take a few more steps up the mountain... I got my FFR headers, Gas'n pipes, driveline installed, fluids filled in IRS center diff, tko600, shifter and my engine ground strap attached to the frame. I was also able to fine tune in my Forte throttle linkage, the adjustable bracket in the footbox was touching the top of the footbox panel at full throttle. This made me a little nervous so I ended up shaving off (1/16-1/8) top of the bracket to clear the top of the footbox, all good now.

I also had a fail bleeding out my Forte hydraulic clutch, at full extension the slave cylinder center piston came out, pivoted and got jammed with the clutch fork compressed. It was a little of a debacle but my dad and I were able to get everything apart, luckily I don't think I did any damage to the slave cylinder or the piston. This was my fault, I cut the linkage shaft too short. I contacted Forte and he told me to add 1/2" in length with a new bolt to get it dialed in correctly. Live and learn, part of the process....

Installing the driveline was a complete headache, what I thought would be a half hour job turned into three hours. A couple tips, the transmission needs to be resting against the cross member in order to achieve the straightest line of site to slide in the driveshaft. It was still a struggle to get the driveshaft to slide in and a relief when it went in, I read one thread about someone actually taking there engine back out to get it in. I also removed the center donut, I really cant see how you could get it in with the donut on but Tremec does say it is possible to do it. Upon my research most seem to just take it out.

Here is a pic of the donut before and after removed. Be very careful removing it, I used two needle nose pliers on each side and avoided pinching the outer part of the seal. With a few good tugs it came out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136332&d=1602727309

Donut removed, a good idea to inspect the inner seal to make sure it is not folded over or damaged.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136333&d=1602727330

Driveshaft installed, I ended up using three spacers from Forte to get the angle almost straight. I still need to run the Tremec app on it to confirm it is within specs, more on this to come. I ended up doing 50 ft/lbs on the six bolts on the center diff adaptor plate and 80 ft/lbs on the four bolts holding the driveshaft. I also used blue loctite on all of them.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136334&d=1602727347

Forte spacers

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136335&d=1602727372

I used 75w-85 (3/4 qt top off) for the rear IRS and AC Delco synchromesh for the TKO600 (almost 3 qts). One surprise is when I found out Ford is now filling the center diff before shipping, it was about 3/4 qt down before coming out the fill plug. I called FFR and they confirmed for me to top it off and no need to add the friction modifier as Ford is now doing this.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136336&d=1602727386

Also got my FFR gearshfter mounted to the Tremec 600, it looks like a nice shifter. Probably will end up replacing the shift ball with something different.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136344&d=1602731599

Shizzzel!!! my Gas'n Pipes arrived.... as many have mentioned these are a work of art. Totally worth the five month wait, the craftsmanship is incredible. I also installed my FFR stainless headers, my engine builder recommended a Felpro 1415 gasket anti-seize on each bolt and 1" long 6 pt header bolts. He mentioned I would need to re-check a couple times after a few heat cycles.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136337&d=1602727403

Interesting to see that Ford send the differential with some friction modifier and fluid, I added about a quart of it and friction modifier, hope the addition of the 4oz of added modifier doesn't affect the differential.

[Fman]

Interesting to see that Ford send the differential with some friction modifier and fluid, I added about a quart of it and friction modifier, hope the addition of the 4oz of added modifier doesn't affect the differential.

I just did what FFR told me to do, I am no expert in rear diff's but IMO either way having it or not the differential would still be fine. It already has synthetic gear lube in it to begin with. I doubt adding more modifier would cause any problems.

[Vspeeds]

looking good!

[cv2065]

Looking great! Where'd you get that air cleaner?

[Fman]

looking good!

Thanks Eddie, appreciate all your help along with many others on this forum! Nice to have it fired up and running, I drop it off for body fitment first week of Dec to Ken.

[Fman]

Looking great! Where'd you get that air cleaner?

Thank you, I definitely used your build thread quite often!

I picked up the air cleaner from Ansen valve covers, they will do any custom logo for you and were excellent to work with. Jury is still out on my air cleaner with that air filter if it is going to clear the body. I might have to change the filter to a lower profile, will find out soon.
https://www.ansenvalvecovers.com/

[v1-vr]

Nice work Travis
Looks top notch uhc

[Fman]

Nice work Travis
Looks top notch uhc

Thanks Dave, let me know when you need a second set of hands... I owe you one! Hope your build is going well...

[460.465USMC]

Congrats, Travis! That is awesome. Been following your build since the beginning, and it's really coming together nice. Way to go!

Chris

[Fman]

Congrats, Travis! That is awesome. Been following your build since the beginning, and it's really coming together nice. Way to go!

Chris

Appreciate that, definitely still feeling the buzz of getting that engine fired up!

[Fman]

Thought I would post up the process to adjust the IAC on the PF4, I got these directions from Edelbrock tech support. The directions in the PF4 manual are a little vague. The Idle Air Control target is around 0-15% at idle when the car is fully warmed up. My car was running at around 56%, you can tell it is high from "air sucking" noise coming from the throttle body. When you have a low IAC it allows the computer to pull more air when needed while driving the car.

Below is the process to get it back to a lower value.

1. Warm engine up to normal operating temp (180+).

2. Once warmed up use the PF4 tablet adjust your target idle down to 700.

3. Begin to turn the idle screw clockwise to adjust the idle back up to desired value (mine was around 800 RPM).

4. Turn off the car for 30 seconds, this will reset the throttle position sensor (TPS) sensor to 0% and the throttle blades.

5. Start engine back up, your IAC should have dropped considerably. You should also not hear the air sucking from the throttle body.

6. If you are still not at the target 0-15% you can repeat the process until the IAC is at the target percentage.

[VAHokie]

Congrats on the first start and progress to date. Looks great!

[Fman]

Congrats on the first start and progress to date. Looks great!

Thank you, took her out for another go-kart today. The car seems to be driving good and shifting with no issues. I am pleasantly surprised how I can lug the engine at a lower RPM and still have it drivable, my engine builder used a mild cam for this reason and it seems to be working out. Up to 5.6 miles now, slowly starting to build some confidence in the car and engine. I will say this thing will knock your teeth out if you hammer the throttle... she gets angry real quick;)

[John Ibele]

Yep, congratulations on a huge milestone. It looks really sharp and sounds fantastic.

[Fman]

Today I dropped my car off to Ken Pike to start working his magic. He has had my body since June, he will do fitment over next couple weeks then give the car back to me to complete interior while he is painting the car. Fortunately I am only about 40 minutes from his shop. They were working on the body today getting ready for primer. He said the body should have primer on it by next week. If all goes well I could have a painted car by end of January early February. Also took v1-vr along with me on the road trip, thanks for coming along Dave!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138616&d=1606854272
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138617&d=1606854289
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138618&d=1606854303

[Fman]

Looks like Ken is making some progress on body fitment...:D after he is done with this process I will take the car back home and finish up interior and a few other punch list items while he finishes paint.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139354&d=1608051888

[norcalLo]

Looks like Ken is making some progress on body fitment...:D after he is done with this process I will take the car back home and finish up interior and a few other punch list items while he finishes paint.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139354&d=1608051888

Congrats Travis!!!!!! Keep us posted on the progress!!! FYI when you finally retire you can certainly do a "body buck" start up company as the one you gave me fits like a glove!!!!!

[Fman]

Congrats Travis!!!!!! Keep us posted on the progress!!! FYI when you finally retire you can certainly do a "body buck" start up company as the one you gave me fits like a glove!!!!!

Hey Larry, your welcome and it was a pleasure meeting you and your wife. I am glad the body buck is working out for you, hope you can pay it forward to another builder once your ready to let it go. Hopefully next year I will see you at a local Cobra event!

[toadster]

holy cow you're cruisin! so excited!!!

what color did you end up going with?