Fmans Dart 427 build #9818 - 14" Leather steering wheel

[Fman]

The weather has just been fantastic here this week so today I took 9818 out for a mid morning drive, 65 degrees out could not get much better. I am up to 2100 miles on the car now and unfortunately I had my first semi major mishap with the car, I noticed my foot starting to slide on my clutch pedal along with my heel sliding on the rubber pad and not being able to shift gears as easily. I immediately knew I had a leaking clutch MC, ah ****!!! Fortunately I was only about 3 miles from my house and able to make it back home to avoid the tow of shame. I had the time today to actually pull the MC so I got right to work. It definitely is leaking from behind the boot, I must have bad luck because I would hope these MC's last longer than 2100 miles :mad: oh well it is what it is... and definitely not a fun project pulling that little sucker out either. There is little to no room in that tiny compartment, I ended up dropping the fuse panel and got some of it below. I called Wilwood and they are going to warranty it out for me and sending me a new one tomorrow. Overall the car has been performing great, I did have a couple other small items my RT turn signal will not hold in upright position (right turn) and at 1400 miles had a DS leaking valve cover gasket I ended up replacing.

Here is the little bugger...one thing that threw me was the fluid coming out of the clutch MC looked very dirty (you can see the color of it on the white towel) almost had a grey color to it. I do not really know how this would be possible with only 2100 miles. I will have to really flush out the system when I re-bleed it. Maybe someone has explanation for why it would look so bad?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158168&d=1638415290

Before the clutch MC mishap I did get a chance to pull over and take a quick snap of 9818, sure is fun to drive :cool:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158167&d=1638415131

[edwardb]

...I had the time today to actually pull the MC so I got right to work. It definitely is leaking from behind the boot, I must have bad luck because I would hope these MC's last longer than 2100 miles :mad: oh well it is what it is... and definitely not a fun project pulling that little sucker out either. There is little to no room in that tiny compartment, I ended up dropping the fuse panel and got some of it below. I called Wilwood and they are going to warranty it out for me and sending me a new one tomorrow. Overall the car has been performing great, I did have a couple other small items my RT turn signal will not hold in upright position (right turn) and at 1400 miles had a DS leaking valve cover gasket I ended up replacing.

Here is the little bugger...one thing that threw me was the fluid coming out of the clutch MC looked very dirty (you can see the color of it on the white towel) almost had a grey color to it. I do not really know how this would be possible with only 2100 miles. I will have to really flush out the system when I re-bleed it. Maybe someone has explanation for why it would look so bad?

I had a Wilwood MC start leaking also out of the boot during my Coupe build. Fortunately before it was all together, so easy enough to access and fix. It's great Wilwood is going to replace yours. Being the impatient type, I ordered and received a rebuild kit the next day. The 3/4" one is Wilwood Master Cylinder Rebuild Kit 260-10514 and just over $30. Includes every part except the actual housing. In my case, I found what looked like a defective seal on the piston. Appeared to be a short shot when it was molded. The whole thing comes apart with a single snap ring. Fixed mine and it's been on the road for two seasons.

Not an issue for you since you have a whole new one coming. But it would be easy for you take yours apart and maybe see what's wrong. Could the color in the fluid be from a defective seal that's breaking down? Maybe there's some kind of defect or rough spot in the cylinder bore?

[Ted G]

Sorry for that trouble Travis.... what a bummer, but thanks for posting. These are the things that future or current builders will learn from. Keeping things accessible seem to be pretty important in instances like this. One reason why I am a nut-sert fan!! Hope the swap out goes well. See ya soon!

Ted

[Fman]

I had a Wilwood MC start leaking also out of the boot during my Coupe build. Fortunately before it was all together, so easy enough to access and fix. It's great Wilwood is going to replace yours. Being the impatient type, I ordered and received a rebuild kit the next day. The 3/4" one is Wilwood Master Cylinder Rebuild Kit 260-10514 and just over $30. Includes every part except the actual housing. In my case, I found what looked like a defective seal on the piston. Appeared to be a short shot when it was molded. The whole thing comes apart with a single snap ring. Fixed mine and it's been on the road for two seasons.

Not an issue for you since you have a whole new one coming. But it would be easy for you take yours apart and maybe see what's wrong. Could the color in the fluid be from a defective seal that's breaking down? Maybe there's some kind of defect or rough spot in the cylinder bore?

Paul, thanks for posting that rebuild kit part number. I was strongly considering doing a rebuild but with the difficulty of removing the MC I was hesitant about not doing it right causing me to remove it again. Hopefully I never have to do this over, thankfully I have a lift which made it somewhat do-able but I cant imagine doing it with car on the ground trying to get up under the fuse panel. I did have to purchase a new MC from Wildwood upfront and they will credit me back when I send them back the defective part which I thought was totally fair. I am still a little stumped on why the fluid looked so mucky out of the MC, that fluid was only about three months old (Motul RBF600 Dot 4 synthetic). I also confirmed with Wilwood that I did not do damage by running Dot 4 fluid, they said Dot 3,4,5 + synthetics are all fine with there MC's.

[Fman]

Sorry for that trouble Travis.... what a bummer, but thanks for posting. These are the things that future or current builders will learn from. Keeping things accessible seem to be pretty important in instances like this. One reason why I am a nut-sert fan!! Hope the swap out goes well. See ya soon!

Ted


Ted, one other tip for people installing the Wilwood clutch MC, the top nylock nut make sure and only snug it down or maybe even just put a regular nut on it with a lock washer. It was a complete PIA trying to break it free because I had it very tight, after cutting down an old 1/2" open end with no success I ended up using a crows foot (I think that is what it is called) to get it off. There is just no room for a wrench in the back corner of that area.

[toadster]

wow that sucks! Forma Cars just posted on the main forum that they have a customer with a failed clutch master cylinder as well - what the heck??!

is this a Wilwood issue or Forte clutch slave issue? or mix? I can't imagine the contortions needed to replace that!

[Fman]

wow that sucks! Forma Cars just posted on the main forum that they have a customer with a failed clutch master cylinder as well - what the heck??!

is this a Wilwood issue or Forte clutch slave issue? or mix? I can't imagine the contortions needed to replace that!

IMO a Wilwood problem, I do not think a slave really has anything to do with a master cylinder failing. If this one does not last I will go with a Tilton MC, I have heard the Tilton is much better quality than Wilwood.

[Nigel Allen]

My local brake company specialises in stainless sleeves. Could a stainless sleeve be a worthwhile, hopefully one-time solution?

[Fman]

My local brake company specialises in stainless sleeves. Could a stainless sleeve be a worthwhile, hopefully one-time solution?

I have no idea what the internals of a Wilwood MC are made of, I do not think they fail often but enough to where I have seen it on this forum a few times. Fingers crossed this one holds up, I can say installation went a lot easier than removing it. I also completely flushed the slave out with fresh fluid, all seems good now so hopefully it holds up.

[460.465USMC]

Travis, it seems also like an impossible task to remove the MC with the body on. Glad you were successful, and here's wishing you many miles of leak-free motoring!

[Hoooper]

Seems like "a lot" of Wilwood MC leaks lately, someone else posted about a leak pretty recently. Pretty sure I also have a small leak, had a small puddle one day but havent investigated yet. Mine is also from spring/early summer 2020

[Fman]

Seems like "a lot" of Wilwood MC leaks lately, someone else posted about a leak pretty recently. Pretty sure I also have a small leak, had a small puddle one day but havent investigated yet. Mine is also from spring/early summer 2020

My next one will be a Tilton not sure how true this is but I have been told they are a much better higher quality master cylinder compared to Wilwood.

[zee]

Hey @Fman, thanks for documenting it. Really enjoyed your videos and this thread.

Random question for ya: I am considering the same powder coating on the sheet metal but I want to do the same on the frame as well. Based on your experience with them, any thoughts on using that powder coating on the frame as well?

[Fman]

Hey @Fman, thanks for documenting it. Really enjoyed your videos and this thread.

Random question for ya: I am considering the same powder coating on the sheet metal but I want to do the same on the frame as well. Based on your experience with them, any thoughts on using that powder coating on the frame as well?

Hey thanks, glad you found it useful sure was a fun car to build I really miss working on it. I definitely think that powder coating would work on the frame, my PC showed me a 250 gallon steel tank they did that was in there shop as a sample before I did my panels and it looked really good.

[zee]

Hey thanks, glad you found it useful sure was a fun car to build I really miss working on it. I definitely think that powder coating would work on the frame, my PC showed me a 250 gallon steel tank they did that was in there shop as a sample before I did my panels and it looked really good.

Awesome. Thank you. I might go with a hint of copper / bras / bronze to do a little brown hue.

[Fman]

I am adding this video to my build thread, it is on a very well built 289 but many of the upgrades and ideas can be applied to the MK4. Thank you again Vspeeds for bringing over your awesome car as mentioned in the video one of my favorite cars to date.... definitely not a bad way to spend a couple hours talking some shop! Also trying to generate some small donations for Sheena Rutherford Go-fund me, anything is greatly appreciated.

Cheers :cool:

https://www.gofundme.com/f/helping-funds-for-sheena-kyle-rutherford


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYypZiWWUJQ

[ShayanIK]

Big fan of your build Travis!
I noticed you put a cool flag emblem on your air cleaner. Can I ask where you purchased it?

[Fman]

Big fan of your build Travis!
I noticed you put a cool flag emblem on your air cleaner. Can I ask where you purchased it?

Thank you, as I have mentioned before my car is a compilation of other build ideas taken from this forum.

Here is a link for the 1" x 2" American Flag decals.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D025KMW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AW80HGTU6OTVJ&psc=1

These are the black on black:
https://www.amazon.com/Lower-American-inches-Embossed-Emblems/dp/B08DK7FMRB

Cheers:cool:

[Mike.Bray]

My next one will be a Tilton not sure how true this is but I have been told they are a much better higher quality master cylinder compared to Wilwood.

Do you know if there is a Tilton that is a direct replacement for the Wilwood? From the website it looks like a 75 series might be it. To my the Tilton MC is a better quality piece than the Wilwood so I might change them out during my build.

[460.465USMC]

I am adding this video to my build thread, it is on a very well built 289 but many of the upgrades and ideas can be applied to the MK4. Thank you again Vspeeds for bringing over your awesome car as mentioned in the video one of my favorite cars to date.... definitely not a bad way to spend a couple hours talking some shop! Also trying to generate some small donations for Sheena Rutherford Go-fund me, anything is greatly appreciated.

Cheers :cool:

https://www.gofundme.com/f/helping-funds-for-sheena-kyle-rutherford

Great review, Travis! Cool to see the 289. Eddie built a great machine. Please keep the build reviews coming! Very helpful not only to get ideas, but seeing what things look like once they're together.

[Fman]

Do you know if there is a Tilton that is a direct replacement for the Wilwood? From the website it looks like a 75 series might be it. To my the Tilton MC is a better quality piece than the Wilwood so I might change them out during my build.

Unfortunately I am not sure on what MC Tilton would use for the Wilwood pedal box. You might try giving them a call to see if they can help you out or maybe someone else on can chime in. Definitely want to make sure it is the same cylinder diameter to keep pressure and throw the same as Wilwood.

[Fman]

Hope everyone has had a nice winter and ready for the spring. In Nor-Cal we had a very wet Nov/Dec followed by a bone dry Jan/Feb which is not great for our drought but really nice for Cobra driving weather. I have been racking up some good miles on the car rapidly approaching 3k miles. Have done a few little items on the car and had a couple problems to resolve. My clutch MC started leaking and was replaced (not a fun process BTW) along with recently my starter solenoid stuck and smoked the starter. Replaced the starter and tested the ignition switch and all seems good now, not sure why this happened. I also added a heat shield/wrap to the new starter to avoid heat soak. Overall the car has been performing well, the Edelbrock PF4 EFI system has been spot on, starts up and runs good every time I drive the car. Have been very pleased with the EFI system and hopeful (fingers crossed) I continue to get good performance from it. As with all EFI systems they have computers/sensors and anything can happen.

Thought I would add a few photos to my build thread of some additional bling and final touches I have added to the car.

I wanted to purchase the Tangent light kit but they are no longer available. I ended up buying these similar fog lights on eBay, replaced them with LED lights and added the Factory 5 logo to complete the lower front section of the car. The fog lights use H3 bulbs for the driving light and T10 bulbs for the small outside bulbs (which can be colored). Below is what I ordered and they are working well, definitely a step up from the yellow-ish halogen bulbs.

T10 colored bulb: (I went with red to match my stripes)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDL96TS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

H3 bulb:

https://www.amazon.com/BRISHINE-Extremely-Projector-Daytime-Running/dp/B08QZ58NS4/ref=sr_1_7?crid=3ESXE4223D6SB&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.gLFmpRgXAIItoTV9NBsK6q31ld0DYkCHw WLpQ94bD0wlMmOPut7g09yfpLY3RjNcCoxtnaqaGO6V4RJyCEU f3lL0FndxkEhruyWTi6P3NCIfvrZSyyMuf_CUhYqLUHsuiyaxl X-7C-3YPaL9OvDfTxNxmsU698uRi5aqujP_Pu2zKCW4kV8mDcHUExWl lxjCqEXPcpkkrs9QoXGNDwNhIQQj-0nk-NfaXivYr6u5rVmYSc0rVHL2k-J5lT9HwLTFPuo1vhuxcScWb5K_kVx4xsbXK4CsJphPjXRLOEDB ztw.jiOaKFuoTZFBlGl6I536IEyBtc7ynRnNGvrehqnNwyk&dib_tag=se&keywords=H3%2BLED%2Bbulb&qid=1709264047&sprefix=h3%2Bled%2Bbul%2Caps%2C186&sr=8-7&th=1

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163916&d=1647266654

I am a big fan of Breeze products however I decided to remove the Breeze upper radiator cover. The cover seemed to prevent airflow from entering the engine compartment when the car is moving. It is a large area when removed, you do have the hood scoop but this really opens it up. Had a drive the other day in 73 degree weather and I can already tell the difference with the cover removed allowing much better air flow in engine compartment when driving. I am going to run it off this summer to see how it performs in warmer weather.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163915&d=1647266654

I added a few more bling items under the hood, some Cobra wheel caps on the brake reservoirs, completion ID plate and FFR logo. I built this car with my Dad so I wanted to have his name badged on the car with the build.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163933&d=1647268346

Also a few more final touches to my lower vintage toggle bezel, on/off indicators, Joe's Racing battery switch cover and Cobra coin emblem on my dash above my light switch. The Cobra coin emblem actually has some sentimental value unfortunately we had a member in our local Cobra group pass away of pancreatic cancer early this year and he had made these Cobra coins and often handed them out to people. We decided to all put them on our dash to remember Greg Bagwell RIP my friend. I also started wearing ear plugs, I must be getting old! I found the noise reducing plugs seem to be working well you can still hear the side pipe harmony but not quite as hard on the ears. I do have the Gas'n touring pipes but at 3k rpm+ it still gets hard on the ears.

Ear plug link:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GYXJZRY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_detailshttps://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163917&d=1647266654

And a little fire extinguisher tag bling

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163918&d=1647266654

The car never gets old to drive, I was thinking by now it would loose some of the fun factor but not the case still puts a smile on my face every time I turn the key. The sound of a healthy pushrod engine just never seems to get old. My wife and I really enjoy taking a Sunday afternoon drive together. Hope everyone is out enjoying there cars and if you are in the build process continue to make progress you won't be disappointed with the end result!:cool:

[Ted G]

Looks great Travis!

[JB in NOVA]

Very nice! I can't wait for the nice weather to settle in here in Northern Virginia. Shouldn't be much longer.

[Fman]

After reading about the L539 clear turn signal lenses from JohnK I decided I was going to add them to 9818. I like the clear lens look and also there is definitely a bump in quality difference from the FFR amber lens that come with the kit. Price was not too bad either, however it did require two different flashers to accommodate the LED amber bulbs. These are complete plug and play, the L539 covers go right onto the old FFR mount and the LED bulb will pop right in. The new flashers do require a separate ground wire but other than that it is a simple install. My entire car now is all LED, so everything is now matching which really gives off some nice bright lights and indicators. Thanks again John for helping me find the correct flashers!

Very pleased with the final look, and anything for under $60 on these cars is a win! :cool:

Link to Lucas539 clear lens from Rogers motors:
https://jollyrogersmotors.com/store/p/770-Lucas-L539-Clear-Lens-Rim-Pair-New.html

Link to correct flashers needed to run Amber LED indicators:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JXLH7CG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Link to Amber LED lights:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RQCHBH5?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Here is the look of the clear lens which will turn amber when turn signal or running lights are turned on.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=165175&d=1649392208

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=165176&d=1649392208

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=165177&d=1649392208

[mosh1999]

Looks good!

[BadAsp427]

That really looks good with your paint and other accents. Nice job.

[nucjd19]

Thank you for the links Travis! Just ordered everything to swap mine out as well. Appreciate your effort and documentation.

[GTBradley]

I did too, they fit much better. I bet the Rogers' are wondering why the spike in sales of turn signal lenses.

[Mike.Bray]

Unfortunately I am not sure on what MC Tilton would use for the Wilwood pedal box. You might try giving them a call to see if they can help you out or maybe someone else on can chime in. Definitely want to make sure it is the same cylinder diameter to keep pressure and throw the same as Wilwood.


I'm going with Tilton 76 series master cylinders, they bolt right in place of the FFR supplied Wilwood units. A few quick calculations and I came up with:

TIL-76-750 0.75" bore for 6 piston Wilwood calipers (front brakes)
TIL-76-812 0.812" bore for Tilton hydraulic throwout bearing
TIL-76-1000 1.00" bore for 4 piston Wilwood calipers (rear brakes)

[Fman]

I'm going with Tilton 76 series master cylinders, they bolt right in place of the FFR supplied Wilwood units. A few quick calculations and I came up with:

TIL-76-750 0.75" bore for 6 piston Wilwood calipers (front brakes)
TIL-76-812 0.812" bore for Tilton hydraulic throwout bearing
TIL-76-1000 1.00" bore for 4 piston Wilwood calipers (rear brakes)

Mike, Thanks for posting this for references. So far my new Wilwood I replaced has been holding up, I have about 1000 miles on it now. Fingers crossed!

[Fman]

I always liked the look of the oil cooler lines showing in front nose opening on the Roadsters. However, I don't think it is necessary for my driving and some of the coolers can run up to $350. I did want the look of the oil cooler and I was able to source this Evil Energy cooler for $88. It is nice compact unit and fortunately tucked in right behind the driving lights, it was a perfect fit. I was also able to make it work with the Michael Everson nose cone which was a nice discovery too. The fittings on this cooler look like they are nice quality with the black braided lines. The lines are not connected to anything, they tuck behind the front of the car.

Link to Evil Energy cooler:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W3LQ786?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

This was the final outcome, had to pick up (4) 1/4-20 stainless bolts/nylock nuts from Ace to hold down the oil cooler.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=165419&d=1649822516

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=165416&d=1649818246

Driving shoes??? I have always battled my feet with the small Roadster footbox. There definitely is a little safety factor not pressing the gas pedal while trying to brake. Someone recommended wrestling shoes actually work very good for driving. So I figured I would give it a shot. Wresting shoes are about half the price of driving shoes. I took a drive today with these Adidas and I must say it really did make a difference! They really do narrow up your feet giving you a little more real estate inbetween the pedals. A nice upgrade from wearing my Nike running shoes. If your looking for a low budget driving shoe option these Adidas are definitely worth a try.

I picked them up on Amazon: (Adidas HVC wrestling shoes)
https://www.amazon.com/Adidas-Wrestling-Ankle-Strap-Black/dp/B01BPL5XRM/ref=sr_1_13?crid=25Z43CZ9NQNXP&keywords=adidas+mens+hvc+wrestling+shoes&qid=1649819271&sprefix=adidas+mens+hvc+wrestling+sh%2Caps%2C470&sr=8-13

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=165418&d=1649818246

[Fman]

I am up to 3700 miles now on the roadster, I have had a couple people inquire about the Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4 EFI system and how it is treating me. Truth is I was really struggling what EFI system I was going to install when building my car, Sniper and FiTech were definitely also at the top of my list. I decided on the PF4 system and up to this point the PF4 system has been spot on. I installed the system, ran the wizard and used the 500 mile learning mode, set the IAC (idle air control), set base/advanced timing and that is all I have done to it. I have not had it tuned professionally the PF4 system by design was meant to be a set it and forget it system. Really have no complaints about it, car runs great and it starts right up every time I turn the key. I get no exhaust fuel smells and it runs clean. I am averaging about 13-15 MPG around town, for a 500+ HP 427 is not bad. I also did add a MSD box with the initial install which came recommended to do this by Gordon Levy. There are some features about the PF4 system I do really like... comes with a tablet, ECM is located out of the heat behind my dash, true multi port EFI, can adjust base/advanced timing on tablet, complete system which includes intake manifold (with two temp sensor ports), TBI, distributor, ECM and good installation instructions. Throttle response in this car is instant with zero lag. I do get some mild down shift exhaust popping between 1400-1100 rpms, I actually don't mind it so I have just left it alone. So at this point (knock on wood) I would have to definitely recommend the system for anyone interested in installing EFI on there SBF. Nothing is 100% so hopefully this system will continue to perform for the long term future.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Edelbrock-35950-Pro-Flo-4-EFI-Kit-Ford-351-Windsor,357721.html?sku=32535950&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkruVBhCHARIsACVIiOwHXorbxd-QbFsp5zDa9l7KaZf9zexlSZGLhSGcZH654wAAjRbH5FoaAlOHE ALw_wcB

One other item I added a few months back is an oil catch can. I did some research on this and figured better to have one than not. I do have baffled good quality valve covers and I would consider myself to be more on the chill side of driving. I don't hammer the throttle much and usually just cruise the car. RPMs are typically 3-4k shifts. I was not sure how much oil (if any) I would collect from a catch can. To my surprise after checking after 500 miles I did have enough oil in the catch can to steadily flow out for a few seconds, probably 1-2 ounces. Not an overwhelming amount but enough to make me realize I am glad I do have the can installed and that oil is not going into my valves/intake system.

I went with a Moroso catch can, not the cheapest on the market but the quality is there. It is a nice can with a large holding reservoir and quarter turn ball valve to easily open and close for draining. Installation was easy and I as able to install it right next to my PS reservoir.

For anyone interested this is where I picked up the catch can:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K9BIY4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=168360&d=1655694080

Installation of the lines goes from PCV valve to catch can back into your intake manifold, simple.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=168359&d=1655694080

Happy motoring... hope everyone is out enjoying there roadster and if you are building one enjoying the build journey!:cool:

[Geoff H]

Thanks for the update! I used the same oil separator with a 347 I built. Also added this adjustable PCV from ME Wagner http://mewagner.com/?p=444 . Made a difference in amount of oil in the separator and main seal seeping I had developed (resolved it). Thanks for the review of the PF4. I run a sniper and finally have it tuned right, but the PF4 is always whispering in my ear.
Geoff

[Fman]

Thanks for the update! I used the same oil separator with a 347 I built. Also added this adjustable PCV from ME Wagner http://mewagner.com/?p=444 . Made a difference in amount of oil in the separator and main seal seeping I had developed (resolved it). Thanks for the review of the PF4. I run a sniper and finally have it tuned right, but the PF4 is always whispering in my ear.
Geoff

Geoff, that PCV valve is trick, thanks for the link. I also noticed the PF4 system has jumped up in price about $500 since I installed mine 18 months ago. Even the Moroso catch can went up $20 in last couple months. No surprise I guess, par for the course with everything else getting more expensive.

[mmklaxer]

Performance coatings finished my wheels this week, another perfect PC job from them! highly recommend them... my son talked me into going with gloss black I was a hesitant at first but I have to admit I am liking the look of them mounted up. I had them mounted up at Americas Tire Co. today those guys always do a good job, great customer service and have good pricing. I guess I officially have a rolling chassis car now or at least close to it. One thing for sure my IRS and front end is way out alignment, I am going to need to do some research on this on how I get it "close" enough for go-karting down the road before I can get it to alignment shop once the car is finished.

I was also able to install my Powerstop brake kit for the front end with drilled and slotted rotors and upraded pads. They claim 30% better braking over stock Mustang GT setup, time will tell. It is definitely affordable well priced upgrade and I do think the rotors look a lot better than the factory oem setup. Hoping to see the rear kit arrive next week.

Powerstop front brake kit, anyone interested here is link to where I purchased.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWR-K1301-26

Just double checking the p/n of the power stop kit you purchased. When i add it to my summit cart and confirm fitment, the K1301-26 comes back as not compatible with a late 90s mustang GT front brakes. I thought the complete kit used the front brakes from that era mustang - is that the wrong assumption? Thanks!

[Fman]

Just double checking the p/n of the power stop kit you purchased. When i add it to my summit cart and confirm fitment, the K1301-26 comes back as not compatible with a late 90s mustang GT front brakes. I thought the complete kit used the front brakes from that era mustang - is that the wrong assumption? Thanks!

This is the correct Power stop kit for the Mustang GT brakes that come from FFR. I believe the FFR kit is from a 2015 Mustang GT not late 90's but I could be mistaken.

[red.barchetta]

Hey Travis

Love the build thread and have been stealing ideas for my own build (#10268)

Question for you regarding your Fragola fuel lines. Do you remember roughly how much line you used? I am looking to order mine ASAP and with being in Canada I don't want to under order and have to pay the very high shipping twice....

Thanks again for documenting everything!

Braden

[cc2Arider]

Hi Braden

I agree this a great build thread...I intend to copy some of his ideas...as well as your user name for my build! (Off topic: that was such a darkly inspirational song for a kid like me who loved to escape by driving) :)

Craig C

[Fman]

Hey Travis

Love the build thread and have been stealing ideas for my own build (#10268)

Question for you regarding your Fragola fuel lines. Do you remember roughly how much line you used? I am looking to order mine ASAP and with being in Canada I don't want to under order and have to pay the very high shipping twice....

Thanks again for documenting everything!

Braden

Braden, thanks for the kind words... I took just about everything on my build thread from others on this forum so can't take credit for much of it. I was trying to find my receipt for the Fragola fuel lines and I can't locate it anywhere. I think it was 20 ft but I can't confirm this. With Pro Flo 4 EFI I had to double it up because of the return line needed. If you are running a carb you will not need the second return line. Maybe someone else can chime in and help you out on the length needed. Whatever you do make sure and buy name brand PTFE fuel line (Fragola is really good) and not some off brand on Amazon.

[460.465USMC]

Braden, I ordered my braided stainless fuel lines from Breeze (with fittings). He provided 23' with the kit. This was enough for supply and return lines, and a few feet between the fuel pressure regulator (mounted on lower center of firewall) and the Coyote fuel rail (PS of motor). I ended up with a couple feet left over. Hope this helps.

[Fman]

Did not work on the car much this winter but did accomplish one task that had been bugging me over the past year. To make a long story even longer my upholstery guy did not adhere my vinyl properly on my dash and it was starting to create this uneven "spotty" appearance to the dash. I have seen this happen before on other Cobras. The cold and hot weather cycles can create this affect. My upholstery guy did offer to repair it free of charge but pulling the dash was a much bigger project than I wanted to take on. Went with plan B and decided to create a template with some thick craft board and use a piece of .040 scrap aluminum I had in the garage, then wrap it in matte auto film and use some stainless button head screws. I was actually quite surprised how it turned out and added some new dimension to my dash. Planning on adding a Carroll Shelby signature decal to finish it off. All in was about $20.

Hope everyone is getting some wheel time in, just took a cruise today! Spring is starting to peek out a little here in Nor Cal, great Cobra weather!

Cheers :cool:

For anyone interested here is the wrap I ended up using, very easy to work with and they also have carbon fiber, gloss black, etc. Would definitely consider using this product also on a complete dash wrap.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GL2342H?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180192&d=1676851444

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180191&d=1676851444

[mladen]

I like the dedicated earplug cases there :)

[Railroad]

I like the dedicated earplug cases there :)

I thought they might be for Amyl Nitrate, LOL.

[cc2Arider]

I was wondering what those were, too! ;)

Craig C

[Fman]

Was able to get my button head hood mod completed today. I wanted to thank Ken Pike for answering a few text messages to give me some guidance on how this was supposed to happen. I ended up deciding on 16 button heads, below are some pics of the process I used. Overall not too bad other than the stress of drilling 16 holes in your hood, it was definitely a measure twenty times pick up the drill then measure another ten times then actually drill.

Here are the tools I ended up using for the project. The 2" nail in the picture was used as a guide to give me the proper distance around the perimeter of the hood. Ken advised me to make sure 2" would land all the button heads inside the rib of the hood and it did. You cant see anything under the hood, very clean doing it this way.

For anyone wanting to do this mod here are some links to purchases I made.

8/32 x 3/8" stainless button heads:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0899P1WWN?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

1/16" Cobalt pilot bit:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q64J6LR?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

5/32" Drill bit:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q9XWGWT?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181012&d=1677794953

This is the schematic I used with slight modification to the lower section of the hood. I decided to go 1" outward from dead center, this put the 3" spaced holes down below on the inside areas of my stripes, I did not want to run a button head through the edge of any stripe. The side button heads are 5" spaced.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180539&d=1677254179

I used some low tack painters tape to mask off and create my template. Notice the small pieces of tape on the drill line, I ended up re-measuring about twenty times and realized I was about 1/8" off so I used the tape to mask the old hole and create the new one. The pencil line also works really good and with the eraser you can easily re-draw your lines. This is when I used the 2" nail to create my guide line around the perimeter hood.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181006&d=1677794881

No turning back now! Holes are drilled. At this point I was like holy **** I hope I do not peel this tape and find some surprises. I used 1/16" pilot bit for the first hole followed up with the 5/32" bit and this worked really good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181007&d=1677794881

I was pleasantly surprised I had no issues with paint chipping, the cobalt bits worked like a champ just like Ken recommended.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181008&d=1677794881

The final product, the button heads all threaded perfectly into the holes and I stopped tightening immediately once I bottomed them out. Ken mentioned if you go too tight you will split the paint and have much bigger problems. I really like the look of the hood now with the added button heads, it might not be for everyone but I am diggin' it!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181009&d=1677794881

And lastly my Carrol Shelby signature decal arrived and is installed on my dash.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/275168439449

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181015&d=1677796621

Overall a great day in the shop!

Cheers!

[Blitzboy54]

Travis,

Looks great man! The coconuts it takes to drill into a completed paint job. I got anxious reading through this update. Lol. Your car look fantastic. I really like the upgrades and my wife thanks you for the electric blanket idea.


Jesse

[Ted G]

Great job! Looks great and now I think I'm going to do it. Btw, did you tap those holes or just screw them in? Also, where'd you get the Carrol Shelby sticker? I want one for my tool box

[Fman]

Great job! Looks great and now I think I'm going to do it. Btw, did you tap those holes or just screw them in? Also, where'd you get the Carrol Shelby sticker? I want one for my tool box

Thank you Ted, it actually turned out like I was hoping and added some pop to the hood. This is where I ordered the Carrol Shelby decal from, I picked the silver color. It takes about 3 weeks for it to arrive but it is a good quality vinyl peel off decal.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/275168439449

[JohnK]

That's very cool! Nice work Travis. I hope I get to see it in person one day.

-John

[Railroad]

How does the bottom of the hood look after screw/rivet install?
thanks,

[Fman]

How does the bottom of the hood look after screw/rivet install?
thanks,

All the screw heads are inside the rib of the hood, you cant see any of them.

[toadster]

seriously amazing work Travis! looks awesome!

[ydousurf]

Yeah Travis, your car is absolutely gorgeous! The red accents on the oil cooler - Brilliant! Gutsy move on the hood mod too! Brave one you are! I might have to follow that, but will do so prior to paint. Nicely done and beautifully executed with the theme!

Doug

[buttsjim]

And lastly my Carrol Shelby signature decal arrived and is installed on my dash.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/275168439449

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181015&d=1677796621

I won't have a glovebox, but I will have a grab bar. Still, I was concerned about the empty look on that side of the dash, and your Carrol Shelby decal is the perfect solution! I have thoroughly enjoyed your thread and drooling over your car--it is beautiful, with about a zillion other ideas worth stealing. Thanks for all your posts.

[TBull]

Beautiful car and it really shows your dedication to your vision of your car that works for you. I applaud it. The color scheme is very close to my old MKII.

[Fman]

We had a nice break in the weather over last couple days our local Sacramento FFR club met up for lunch today out in Granite Bay at the Flower Farm. We all had to get out and get some wheel time before the rains return tomorrow. Also had a nice surprise a Kirkham Cobra showed up this owner had just finished this car. It is absolutely beautiful, Kirkham definitely puts together one amazing car. I was fortunate enough to park next to him not too often you get this opportunity so I had to snap a photo!;)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181058&d=1677890771

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181059&d=1677890788

[Fman]

My side pipes start to develop a little yellowish hue over time, I was using bar keepers and mothers to bring them back which took a lot of time and elbow work polishing them. TedG in our local FFR Sac group used Compound 302 with great results so I ended up picking up a can. Compound 302 is specifically designed for stainless. First off this stuff is nasty, use eye protection and gloves whenever handling it and use in a well ventilated area. I was shocked how well this product works, after spreading over the pipes you let sit for about 30 seconds and buff of with a terrycloth towel followed with a wet wipe soapy solution clean and your done! It brings them back to brand new condition in a matter of seconds. The container I purchased is enough to last a lifetime, you don't need much only a light layer. I definitely would also mask off around side pipe cut outs, this stuff would probably do some damage to paint.

Compound 302 is a must have for any hot rodder with stainless exhaust components that need to be refreshed! It is not easy to find but I was able to locate some from this supplier and they even shipped it to Commifornia which was surprising.

https://weldingsupply.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl#ezScrl2

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182948&d=1681482628

Results after a 30 second one time treatment...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182949&d=1681482628

Cheers to some purdy side pipes! :cool:

[Ted G]

Good call on the protecting paint. I noticed the fumes are pretty strong from this stuff on my second use; who knows what it would do to paint.

[Fman]

I am running the FFR 17" Halibrands, have always thought the rear tires tucked in a little too far for my liking. I decided to install some 1" spacers to bring them out, I ended up going with Richeer 6062-T-6 billet aluminum spacer with 12.9 grade studs. Pretty simple install other than having to cut down the wheel studs. They send red loctite with the spacers but I ended up going with blue because of the full floating rotors which could need to be taken off some day. Overall really happy with the final look, have a couple drives on them now and no rubbing or handling issues - all seems good! :cool:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184257&d=1683600032
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184258&d=1683600032
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184259&d=1683600032
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184261&d=1683600032
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184260&d=1683600032
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184517&d=1684120930

[JohnK]

That looks really nice!

[Ted G]

would love to see a before and after shot. Looks great!

[JV1953]

Looks great! Have been planning on doing the same! PM Sent

John

[Geoff H]

I like the look! Did you have to change ride height?

[Fman]

I like the look! Did you have to change ride height?

Hey thanks, no ride height change. Bolted them on and that was it.

[Keith Lamberson]

Hope everyone is doing well and if you live in Nor Cal, staying out of the smoke and heat!

Finally getting some build time in and I have been able to make a little bit more progress...

My dash is covered with the leather hyde I picked up, it is nice to see some fruits from your labor, I spent a lot of hours on the dash and I am pleasantly surprised I cant see anything under the leather! I guess even a blind squirrel can find a nut sometimes :-) The leather hyde quality is exactly what I was hoping for, even smells like a new car... I did make a last minute change and moved the headlight knob to the right side of the speedo. I was afraid of it hitting my hands being around the steering wheel and wanted everything around the wheel to be flat. I also moved the horn button from the left side to under the speedo.

I was also able to come up with a very basic clutch stop, mounted my breeze 1/2" vent line with charcoal canister and mounted the Aeromotive fuel filter. One other highlight was getting my brakes bled out, I now have a car with working brakes!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134314&d=1598416814
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134315&d=1598416832
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134316&d=1598416847

Clutch stop, simple but functional. Also totally adjustable the rubber stopper can go completely flat against 1/8" alum reinforcement plate if needed (by removing the nut). Can also be adjusted outward approx 1-1/4"

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134317&d=1598416858
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134318&d=1598416871

Breeze 1/2" vent line with sprinkler charcoal canister, Aeromotive 10 micron fuel filter

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134319&d=1598416985
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134320&d=1598416998

what is the push button under your tach? is that your horn?

[Fman]

what is the push button under your tach? is that your horn?

Yes sir, horn button.

[Fman]

Life got real busy last year so I did not do much of anything with my car, only put about 300 miles on it. Car has 5700 miles now, recently I began to not like the wood rimmed steering wheel so I decided to pick up a FFR leather steering wheel. Was able to grab the 12 days of xmas sale from FFR for $99. Only a couple drives with it so far but it's been a nice change from the old school wood rimmed wheel. Definitely more comfortable on the hands when driving.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=194203&d=1704645796

[Ted G]

Nice, I do prefer the leather wheel too. Looks good Travis!

[BrewCityCobra]

Was able to get my button head hood mod completed today. I wanted to thank Ken Pike for answering a few text messages to give me some guidance on how this was supposed to happen. I ended up deciding on 16 button heads, below are some pics of the process I used. Overall not too bad other than the stress of drilling 16 holes in your hood, it was definitely a measure twenty times pick up the drill then measure another ten times then actually drill.

Here are the tools I ended up using for the project. The 2" nail in the picture was used as a guide to give me the proper distance around the perimeter of the hood. Ken advised me to make sure 2" would land all the button heads inside the rib of the hood and it did. You cant see anything under the hood, very clean doing it this way.

For anyone wanting to do this mod here are some links to purchases I made.

8/32 x 3/8" stainless button heads:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0899P1WWN?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

1/16" Cobalt pilot bit:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q64J6LR?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

5/32" Drill bit:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q9XWGWT?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181012&d=1677794953

This is the schematic I used with slight modification to the lower section of the hood. I decided to go 1" outward from dead center, this put the 3" spaced holes down below on the inside areas of my stripes, I did not want to run a button head through the edge of any stripe. The side button heads are 5" spaced.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180539&d=1677254179

I used some low tack painters tape to mask off and create my template. Notice the small pieces of tape on the drill line, I ended up re-measuring about twenty times and realized I was about 1/8" off so I used the tape to mask the old hole and create the new one. The pencil line also works really good and with the eraser you can easily re-draw your lines. This is when I used the 2" nail to create my guide line around the perimeter hood.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181006&d=1677794881

No turning back now! Holes are drilled. At this point I was like holy **** I hope I do not peel this tape and find some surprises. I used 1/16" pilot bit for the first hole followed up with the 5/32" bit and this worked really good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181007&d=1677794881

I was pleasantly surprised I had no issues with paint chipping, the cobalt bits worked like a champ just like Ken recommended.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181008&d=1677794881

The final product, the button heads all threaded perfectly into the holes and I stopped tightening immediately once I bottomed them out. Ken mentioned if you go too tight you will split the paint and have much bigger problems. I really like the look of the hood now with the added button heads, it might not be for everyone but I am diggin' it!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181009&d=1677794881

And lastly my Carrol Shelby signature decal arrived and is installed on my dash.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/275168439449

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181015&d=1677796621

Overall a great day in the shop!

Cheers!

Fman,

I'm considering doing these "hood bolts" as well. Just a quick question, you say that you used 8/32 stainless button-head bolts for the hood. Did you use 8/32 for the scoop as well? I was considering using 10-32 for the scoop, which makes me wonder if I should do 10/32 for the hood bolts as well. Just curious if you matched yours.

-Brew

[Fman]

Fman,

I'm considering doing these "hood bolts" as well. Just a quick question, you say that you used 8/32 stainless button-head bolts for the hood. Did you use 8/32 for the scoop as well? I was considering using 10-32 for the scoop, which makes me wonder if I should do 10/32 for the hood bolts as well. Just curious if you matched yours.

-Brew

The hood scoop was installed by Ken who painted my car, I will need to check and see what size they are. Whatever size bolt you use for the hood just make sure the hole you drill is the correct size to thread the bolt in tight enough to secure but not crack the paint.

[BrewCityCobra]

Thanks! I can certainly work with that.

[BrewCityCobra]

Fman, sorry for the million questions but I have one more. I'm a really big fan of your stripe layout (specifically your red pin stripes) and was wondering if you would mind letting me know how wide they are. I'm thinking of doing a similar pinstripe layout but with different colors (Blue car, white primary racing stripes, and Black pinstripes). Other pinstriped cars I've seen always seem to have the pinstripes too thin, yours are a bit thicker and seem to create the perfect look.

Appreciate all the help!

-Brew

[Gordon Levy]

They look to be 1/4"