25th MKIV #9772 Build NOR*CAL: new vanity plate

[toadster]

Attended Build School with my son August 2019
Ordered a 25th Anniversary MKIV October 25th, 2019 - pushed finalization to January 18, 2020 to finalize funds
Car was finalized for pickup, #9772 which is #20 of 25 of the 25th Anniversary Cars.
Stewart Transportation was selected for delivery, $2,100 from Boston to Sacramento Area.
Picked up on 1/22/19, and delivered 2/6/20 (some weather delays) and I was car #10 in a trailer full of 10 cars... ours was tucked WAY in the back.

I turn 50 this year, 25 year anniversary at my workplace, and 25th anniversary for Factory Five - the planets have aligned!
My son (23) and I will be the primary workers on this car, we've done several things with cars from brakes, to axle replacements, to simple stuff like stereos, wheels, etc. But this is a whole new ballgame!

I've created a website to capture all the thought, progress, ideas for this endeavor: https://cobradreams.com
I've made my color choice - here is the color!!! (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?34952-25th-MKIV-9772-Build-NOR*CAL-CA-SB100-Registered!&p=555953&viewfull=1#post555953)

25th Anniversary Kit Details: Original PO for Build (https://cobradreams.com/original-list-of-parts-for-the-roadster/)



Part#
Description


50013
MK IV COMPLETE KIT


16800
25th ANNIVERSARY KIT COMPONENTS



- Bronze Chassis
- Satin black aluminum footbox panels
- Anniversary GPS Gauges
- Anniversary Wilwood brakes
- Exclusive bronze 18" wheels
- Anniversary leather seats
- Anniversary badges
- IRS w/front & rear sway bars
- KONI double-adjustable shocks
- Assembled louvers
- Chrome driver's rollbar w/grommets
- Stainless steel exhaust & bumper kit
- Carbon fiber dash
- Sun visors & Wind wings
- All new body mold


15440
Modular 4.6/Coyote Engine/Transmission Mount Kit


16972
Coyote Full Length Headers w/Cats w/Kit


60175
31 Spline 2015 IRS 10.50" Driveshaft


12066
Front Lower Arms - Standard Width


15549
Roadster Wiper Kit


12469
Brake Duct Wire Mesh


15015
1.50" Passenger Side Chrome Roll bar


15158
1.50" Roll Bar Grommet Set


16863
GEN 3 COYOTE INSTALLATION KIT


DISCOUNT
25th Anniversary Discount


DEPOSIT
Deposit $2500 C/C 10/25/19


DISCOUNT
BUILD SCHOOL DISCOUNT






Engine & Transmission Plans: Forte's Coyote Engine Package (https://mobiletekkdemo.com/fp/product/5-0l-460hp-gen-3-coyote-engine-package/)


M-6017-M50B GEN III COYOTE ECU (https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6017-M50B)
M-8600-M50BALT ALT KIT (https://amzn.to/312emWC)
GEN III COYOTE ENGINE COVER KIT (https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-9680-M50B)
Tremec TKX TCET17765 FORD TKX 2.87 / .68 (https://fortesparts.com/product/tremec-tkx-manual-transmission-tcet17765/)
QT RM-6080 4.6 COY TKX (https://amzn.to/39iRTt5)
FORK COY CLUTCH FORK W/ PIVOT
T/O B 614014 FORD LATE USA TIMKEN (https://amzn.to/3vTVbg3)
BOLT KIT & FLYWHEEL, CLUTCH BOLTS & PILOT
ACT COY 164T COYOTE FLYWHEEL 8 BOLT
M-7560-T46 11" 26 SPL 4.6 CENTERFORCE
MINI COYOTE MINI STARTER N/C (https://amzn.to/3eZYxrv)
COYOTE OIL FILTER NIPPLE (https://fortesparts.com/product/454/)
OPTIONAL OPTIONAL PARTS & LABOR BELOW
MOR COY GEN III PAN & PICKUP WITH GASKETS & BOLTS
EXT HYD EXT HYD KIT MK IV MINUS MASTER
LABOR-A ASSEMBLE TO TURNKEY & CRATE
COY AIR K&N FILTER AIR INLET KIT
ENGINE ENGINE LIFT PLATE COY REFUNDABLE $95.00


+ FREIGHT costs




Tires:
Yokohama ADVAN A502 (https://cobradreams.com/2020/01/14/tires-before-wheels/)
315/30R18
265/35R18

Body and Paint: Ken Pike (https://cobradreams.com/2020/01/30/visiting-ken-pike-https-streetrodpainter-com/) will be the man!

Here are the aftermarket items I have already purchased (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1FpEApz3NWGMQ2CXqUVNh6Jb8u0ksuT_tVp6Zl0dF6RE/edit?usp=sharing):
Metco Driveshaft Safety Loop (https://www.metcomotorsports.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MDL2500)
Boyd Welding Factory Five MK4 25 gallon fuel Tank (https://fueltankparts.com/collections/factory-five-roadster)
Aeromotive Stealth 340 Fuel Pump (https://amzn.to/2XDh3xo)
Aeromotive 12347 Line Filter (an-6 Male) 10 Micron (https://amzn.to/2xsCWVD)
Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator with 100PSI gauge (https://amzn.to/2xsCS8l)
DWC rearview mirror mount (http://www.darkwatercustoms.com/buildrequest.php#!/Rear-View-and-Side-Mirror-Brackets-Dash-Bracket/c/185741)
DWC door sill trim (http://www.darkwatercustoms.com/buildrequest.php#!/Door-Sill-Trim/c/185913)
Forte's Parts Ford Super 8.8 3.55 Differential W/ Knuckles & Hubs (https://fortesparts.com/product/super-8-8%E2%80%B3-irs-differential-3-55-and-knuckle-kit/)
Russ Thompson turn-signal (http://www.norcal-cobras.com/store/russ_garage/mk3/mk3tss.html)
520 Speedwork hidden-rollbar mounts (https://520speedworks.com/shop/ols/products/bolt-less-roll-bar-kit-15-inch)
Breeze Black, 5-Speed Pattern with Cobra(R) Snake Logo Both Sides (https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/shift-knob-white-5-speed-pattern-with-cobrar-snake-logo-both-sides/)
Breeze Hose and Fitting Group for FFR 16137 Coyote Power Steering Kit (https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/hose-and-fitting-group-for-ffr-16137-coyote-power-steering-kit/)
Breeze Engine Compartment Battery Mounting Kit, MkIV Roadster (https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/engine-compartment-battery-mounting-kit-mk3-3-1-4-roadster/)
Breeze Dead Pedal Kit for use with Wilwood Pedal Box (https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/dead-pedal-kit-for-use-with-wilwood-pedal-box/)
Breeze Radiator Fan Shroud (https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/radiator-fan-shroud/)
Breeze Offset Rack Mounting Kit for FFR Roadster (https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/offset-rack-mounting-kit-for-ffr-roadster-and-coupe/)
Breeze Heavy Duty Hinged Radiator/Shroud Mounting Kit (https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/heavy-duty-hinged-radiator-shroud-mounting-kit/)
Breeze Lower Radiator Support Kit (https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/lower-radiator-support-kit/)
Breeze Radiator Cowl Cover Kit for use with FFR Hinges (https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/radiator-cowl-cover-kit-for-use-with-ffr-hinges/)
Breeze Steel Frame Seat Mounts (https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/installation-kit-for-new-steel-frame-classic-seats/)
Factory Five 16461 Coyote KRC Power Steering Kit (https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/KRC-POWER-STEERING-COYOTE-ROADSTER-COUPE.pdf)
Factory Five Gen3 A/C + Heater Kit (http://chrome-extension//efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/viewer.html?pdfurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.factoryfive.c om%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2017%2F11%2FAC-HEATER-DEFROSTER-COUPE-Gen-3.pdf&clen=17962097&chunk=true)
ididit 3100006040 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/IDT-3100006040)relays (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/IDT-3100006040) for Russ's turn signal button
Replica Parts Radiator Panel (http://www.replicaparts.com/Roadster%20aluminum%20panel%20page.htm)
Replica Parts Brake Booster Spacer (http://www.replicaparts.com/BRAKE%20BOOSTER%20SPACER%20PAGE.htm)
Replica Parts Rear Quick Jack Plates (http://replicaparts.com/Rear%20quick%20jack%20plate%20page.htm)
Replica Parts Seat Belt Trim Plates (http://replicaparts.com/seatbelt%20page.htm)
Replica Parts Under Dash Filler Panel (http://replicaparts.com/under%20dash%20filler%20page.htm)
Replica Parts Windshield Post Trim Plates (http://replicaparts.com/windshield%20trim%20plate%20page.htm)
Replica Parts Russ Thompson Turn Signal Bezel (http://replicaparts.com/russ%20thompson%20turn%20signal%20page.htm)
Wilwood Electric Parking Brake Kit (https://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitsProdRear?itemno=140-15978-BK)
Drummer Mike polished Heat Shields
Fortes A/C Pedal Extensions (https://fortesparts.com/product/fortes-custom-pedal-extension-kit/)
GT500 ABS Custom Setup


Plans to buy:
MKIV Wheel Well Liner Kit (https://vraptorspeedworks.com/mk-4-wheel-well-liner-kit/)

[ydousurf]

Toadster, looks like you have a very thorough and complete plan in place and your ready to build! I've been out on your site too, nicely done! I'm in front of you with #19, but I'll surely be behind you in my build (planning a few years to complete mine) and will be following yours closely. I dig the color scheme and it should look sweet once it's completed. Enjoy the build and more importantly, enjoy building it with your son and other family members and friends too!

Dj

[Straversi]

Congratulations on your anniversary roadster. I look forward to watching it go together. I’ve never seen the Boyd’s tank in a roadster. The ones they build for the 33 are nice. I’m sure you and your son will have a great time.
-Steve

[toadster]

first pass on inventory is complete!

122445

https://cobradreams.com/2020/02/12/first-pass-inventory-done/

next pass will be verifying all part#s that are missing and aligning with POL

[Logan]

Congrats!! Looks like a solid build plan.

The FFR wipers work, but many have reported that they’re not the highest quality (especially for the price). A solid alternative was found by EdwardB, which is a kit from Specialty Power Windows (model WWK-2). Similar style setup but all the parts are beefed up compared to the FFR/Lucas ones. And it’s also around $300 instead of $500. Just letting you know there are options.

Good luck with the build! The stars have indeed aligned.

[toadster]

Congrats!! Looks like a solid build plan.

The FFR wipers work, but many have reported that they’re not the highest quality (especially for the price). A solid alternative was found by EdwardB, which is a kit from Specialty Power Windows (model WWK-2). Similar style setup but all the parts are beefed up compared to the FFR/Lucas ones. And it’s also around $300 instead of $500. Just letting you know there are options.

Good luck with the build! The stars have indeed aligned.

thx for the update, I've tried to gather a LOT of pre-purchase info... wipers I'm not super worried about for functionality - hopefully won't see too much rain around here :)

[toadster]

here's my POL update

https://i.imgur.com/0YamZlj.jpg

and the missing parts list, surprised the shocks were missing!

https://i.imgur.com/27T5VM0.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/34v6oxC.jpg

[toadster]

assembled the Wilwood hats & rotors with safety wire...

122802 122803 122804 122805

[Fman]

assembled the Wilwood hats & rotors with safety wire...

122802 122803 122804 122805

Way to go Toad! off and running... I am following your build progress, hoping to learn something. If you ever need another body to help please let me know, more than willing to come over and help.

[RodneyArcher]

Congrats on the build! Just couple things on the Gen 3 Coyote...make sure it's plumbed with the OEM and the Seed Hut Oil Pressure senders and be prepared to trim the engine cover considerably (especially if you plan on using the gas struts!)

[toadster]

Congrats on the build! Just couple things on the Gen 3 Coyote...make sure it's plumbed with the OEM and the Seed Hut Oil Pressure senders and be prepared to trim the engine cover considerably (especially if you plan on using the gas struts!)

ahhh I love autocorrect! I'm sure you mean Speedhut Oil Pressure Senders :)

yes, I've been watching Paul's build on his coupe...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Quick-Release-Steering-Wheel&p=398469&viewfull=1#post398469

I need to put sticky notes in my manual!

[toadster]

A little more scrubbing on the diff today...

123028

A little iron-x LOL DANG
123029

NICE!
123031

Tomorrow gets clearcoat

[toadster]

lots of work yesterday!

I went a little backwards, normally I'd do the POR15 THEN the shiny parts, but oh well - the aluminum cover was shined up and clear-coated
123161

Even after a day of using the ironX spray, I had more surface rust to hit...
123159

the Dremel with a wire wheel (https://amzn.to/32oNgcg) works very well!
123160

I used some scotch brite pads to ensure the dust was knocked off, used my air compressor to blow off any extra materials then started the degrease process for the POR15 kit, this little kit was PLENTY for the IRS diff...
POR-15 40909 Gloss Black Stop Rust Kit - Permanent Corrosion Preventive System $21
123162 (https://amzn.to/2TeLZQR)

Here's a quick video showing the metal prep step of the POR15 process, very important to have the POR15 coating stick!

https://youtu.be/9av3P7s1Yuc

The IRS diff is VERY heavy ~ 93lbs. and awkward to move, I have to give @edwardb credit for building a mount for his setup - I used a milk crate and it's a real PITA to setup properly due to the design

once the prep dried (quickly thanks to compressed air) I was ready for the stinky stuff (https://amzn.to/2TeLZQR)! Don't' worry that it's such a tiny amount, it's self levelling and works VERY well!
123163

The end-result was awesome! It's funny how many of us enjoy doing this to a part that most people will NEVER see!
123164

While the diff was drying, I finally got to removing the doors, trunk, hood, the front/rear bumper mounts, front body mounts, and the 4 body screws under the doors.

123166 123167 123168 123169

[toadster]

I had a few helpers...
123170

next I marked the inner body panels that will be trimmed to fit later once the body is off... this was recommended at the build school, run a sharpie perpendicular to the body and trim along that line.
123171 123172

I noticed that the front body mounts were bare metal, and many say they won't use them - but I figured if I do, I painted them (not really seen but now protected)
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I bagged and tagged the parts removed to make sure they don't get lost, and also not mix the front and rear bumper mounts - they look similar but very different!
123175

and the final shot of the body, ready to pull and mount on the buck tonight (hopefully!)
123176

[Jeff Kleiner]

next I marked the inner body panels that will be trimmed to fit later once the body is off... this was recommended at the build school, run a sharpie perpendicular to the body and trim along that line.
123171 123172



I suggest that you revisit this because there is no way you'll need to remove that much material.

Jeff

[Ducky2009]

assembled the Wilwood hats & rotors with safety wire...

122805

You might want to revisit your lockwire spec. The lockwire should be tight enough to NOT allow a bolt to rotate. The bolt to the left could turn/loosen because the wire "between" the bolts is too losses.

Good luck in your build! Never stop asking questions. There is a wealth of information here.

[toadster]

You might want to revisit your lockwire spec. The lockwire should be tight enough to NOT allow a bolt to rotate. The bolt to the left could turn/loosen because the wire "between" the bolts is too losses.
Good luck in your build! Never stop asking questions. There is a wealth of information here.

yes, I agree I have a few to re-do, just need to get more wire... surprisingly, the 27 ft of wire that came with my safety pliers was a perfect amount for what I used...



I suggest that you revisit this because there is no way you'll need to remove that much material.
Jeff

agreed, the sharpie I used had a pretty fat tip on it, so most likely will trip to the TOP of that line (not the bottom)

[edwardb]

...so most likely will trip to the TOP of that line (not the bottom)...

Personally I'd recommend not cutting anything until later in the build. I know they say this at build school. All due respect, they've been saying it for a long time and I'm not sure the fit is the same as it used to be. Sheet metal and body are placed for shipping. Not way off necessarily, but also not necessarily where it all will be later when finalized. As the saying goes, you can always remove material. But hard to put it back once it's off. I've never had to trim that much (either side of your lines...) in three Roadster builds. You'll find it's just not hard to take the body on and off. Even a few times.

[toadster]

Personally I'd recommend not cutting anything until later in the build. I know they say this at build school. All due respect, they've been saying it for a long time and I'm not sure the fit is the same as it used to be. Sheet metal and body are placed for shipping. Not way off necessarily, but also not necessarily where it all will be later when finalized. As the saying goes, you can always remove material. But hard to put it back once it's off. I've never had to trim that much (either side of your lines...) in three Roadster builds. You'll find it's just not hard to take the body on and off. Even a few times.

point taken! thanks all :)

[toadster]

With the help of my son and one of my friends, we were able to successfully re-assemble the body buck, pull the body, and strip the panels to get to the base frame!

first we assembled, and tested to make sure it fits in the garage - yay!
123205

body removed and resting on the buck!
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from my previous 'upgrade' I added some locking casters, the bummer is that they're about 1.5" taller than the old ones, so we had to remove the front ones to clear the garage door!
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next we tagged and pulled the interior panels (many of which are on the POL)
123210

believe it or not, the rivet spacer is on POL, I mean really?! So my son was creative and took one of his old rulers from elementary school and modified it :o
123211

the F-panels were in a separate box for the engine bay panels, so we drilled and cleco'ed them in until I get a new tube of silicone
123212

[toadster]

Mounting the front LCAs - the passenger side was just like the manual - one spacer in the rear mount, the front was perfect

The driver side was a PITA, front mount needed coaxing with a dead blow hammer, the rear has 1 spacer but looks like it needs a 2nd - should I put a second one?

Passenger side:
123277

Driver side
123278

[SSNK4US]

I’m right there with you Toadster! Pictures from Sunday. 7/31/18 delivery :(
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123281

[ydousurf]

Hey Toad, I would follow what the FFR Manual on how it advises for assembly and/or consult with the tech folks at FFR. With that said, I'm actually wondering why there are not spacers on each side for both upper and lowers and perhaps even copper (wearable) spacers on each side? Yes, they wear out, I know, that's the point! None-the-less, are you greasing them up prior to install? I also did notice that the upper plastic/rubber spacers have "grease grooves or slots" manufactured in them. They're similar to the modification that many have made prior to them manufacturing them this way, which is great, since I was planning to mod them. I'm thinking there should be something not similar, but a small mod on the lower part to allow for better grease coverage to flow. I have a couple ideas I'm thinking about. I'm not at this stage yet, but I do plan to pre-grease all fittings as I assemble any friction/moving related parts. Anyway, you're moving right along, keep at it!

Dj

[Jeff Kleiner]

...perhaps even copper (wearable) spacers on each side? Yes, they wear out, I know, that's the point!

Dj

Huh? There better not be anything moving on the LCA washers. The sleeves inside the polyurethane bushings get captured between the chassis tabs and are stationary.

Jeff

[ydousurf]

Ahhh... I was thinking that the boxed bracket welded to the frame would begin to get wear over time and so the "sacrifice" would be on the spacers instead? Your explanation clears that up and so I'll not be making any mods to the sleeves themselves. Do we need to slot the poly parts like they are now done on the UCA's for better grease coverage? Thanks for clarification, Jeff!

Dj

[toadster]

Total transparency... LOL I got my 15/16th wrench today, did the passenger side, and went to the drivers side... forgot to use the open ended side - whoops! :eek:

123312

[Jeff Kleiner]

Total transparency... LOL I got my 15/16th wrench today, did the passenger side, and went to the drivers side... forgot to use the open ended side - whoops! :eek:

123312

Darn, now you're going to have to buy a plasma cutter to get it out of there. :p

Jeff

[toadster]

Ugh seriously how do I get it out?

[Logan]

Least invasive: use another wrench and put the open-end on the nut, just inside of the stuck wrench. Remove the bolt.

More invasive: cut the stuck box end ratcheting wrench out with a dremel. One of those rare cases where a non-reversible ratcheting wrench stinks.

If it makes you feel any better, just the other day I installed a rivnut using my fancy tool in a tight spot, then couldn’t get the tool out of the newly set rivnut. I had to cut the threaded tip off my tool to get it out. This was after I wasted an hour+ trying to get it out. Tried disassembling the tool and everything, but it was not possible. To replace that one tip I need to buy the whole set of tips for $35. Ouch. Least I learned something...

[Jeff Kleiner]

Ugh seriously how do I get it out?

Please step away from the tool box, turn off the light and leave the garage.

Jeff

[toadster]

Least invasive: use another wrench and put the open-end on the nut, just inside of the stuck wrench. Remove the bolt.

More invasive: cut the stuck box end ratcheting wrench out with a dremel. One of those rare cases where a non-reversible ratcheting wrench stinks.

If it makes you feel any better, just the other day I installed a rivnut using my fancy tool in a tight spot, then couldn’t get the tool out of the newly set rivnut. I had to cut the threaded tip off my tool to get it out. This was after I wasted an hour+ trying to get it out. Tried disassembling the tool and everything, but it was not possible. To replace that one tip I need to buy the whole set of tips for $35. Ouch. Least I learned something...

well, i guess i'm off to buy another 15/16ths wrench to see if step #1 works.


Please step away from the tool box, turn off the light and leave the garage.

Jeff

yeah, my excitement got the best of me, last of 4 bolts mounting the LCAs - the first 'parts' on the car... thinking the clearance was like in front of the tube, but not so... I did leave the garage, today is a new day :eek:

[SSNK4US]

Hate it when that happens lol Wrench might be to wide to fit. I’ve ground lots of wrenches thinner in my life over the years.
I’d try some needle nosed visegrips first, it’s almost like grabbing the nut with a wrench.
Good luck!

Kurt

[rich grsc]

Is everyone really that dense? You don't know what an open end wrench is?

[SSNK4US]

He used a ratchet box end wrench and when the bolt came through the nut it trapped his wrench. When he tries to take out the bolt the ratchet spins freely and won’t loosen the nut. I don’t think he’ll be able to get another open end wrench in there, not enough room. We’re just trying to give him ideas how to get his wrench out. He wasn’t thinking the bolt would come through and trap his wrench. If it wasn’t a new fangled ratchet wrench he could just back out the bolt. He even said oops I used the wrong end. Any way you look at it his wrench is stuck and he’s looking for help. He made a mistake.... he’s not dense.

Kurt

[Boydster]

Amazon open end thin wrenches (https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Super-Thin-Wrench-Set/dp/B001HZQW0Y/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1L1PVWRANY8YK&keywords=15%2F16+open+end+thin+wrench&qid=1582924317&sprefix=thin+open+end+15%2F16%22+wrench%2Caps%2C18 1&sr=8-5)

[SSNK4US]

Yeah like those... or a grinder and a cheap wrench lol

[ydousurf]

Hey Toadster, sh!t happens and we all make silly mistakes. Gotta love it when you assemble something and forget a part or whatever and have to redo it, it only equals frustration and curse words, but please, don't throw the wrenches! :p As said above and/or get a harbor freight or cheaper brand tool and grind one side down if necessary. I know I've made my share of mistakes and had to make some "custom tools" to get me out of that particular pickle, but I still use some of them when a wonky situation arises. Wrench on...

Dj

[Nigel Allen]

You could just leave it there and tie it to the frame. A lifetime reminder of frustration and fun building these things.

Only joking.

Cheers, Nigel

[rich grsc]

Wedge a screwdriver under a flat on the nut.

[railing]

Worst case if the new 15/16 open ended wrench doesn't fit, use a grinder to make it thinner.... Also, bicycle wrenches are thin, might call your local bike shop and see if they have a 24mm in a thin bicycle wrench.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BBCKLC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_d0zwEbPDWB59M

Ones like that, 15/16 is between a 23 and 24mm so it would be a little loose.

Most bicycle shops will have that in stock.

[toadster]

15/16ths are hard to find (especially a thin one) in the local stores; Lowes, Home Depot, etc.
The guy at Home Depot told me about a thinner wrench that was used for plumbing, he technically couldn't 'recommend using it' but winked while he said it...
snagged a new Rigid wrench from Home Depot
123330 (https://amzn.to/2IhH38N)

problem averted, nut & bolt removed, and used the open ended side this time - took a little powder coat off, but oh well, it's a reminder... thanks guys for the assist, I've honestly never done that before!

123329

[railing]

Congrats getting it off. A good lesson. We have all been there and done something that required new tools or asking someone for help.

[SSNK4US]

Wedge a screwdriver under a flat on the nut.

I thought about that too Rich. Not sure if it’s a nylon lock nut or a crushed one. Nylon locknut maybe.... crushed one probably no chance in the double hockey stick place lol Definitely jack up powder coat going that route :(

I replied to Rich’s post and it put it here on page two a few hours late lol
I’m glad you got handled! Long road ahead.... probably gonna have a few more oppps lol
Don’t ever stop asking questions. Or for help :)

Kurt

[Railroad]

Through edwardb's post, I found the correct color match for the 20th anniversary frame powder coat in a spray can.
If you call FF, they should be able to give you the color number or name. I think the company name is LVP. Might need to search and make sure on that name. I did find I needed to touch up the frame more than once.
The cost is a little high, but for the perfect color match, it was worth it for me.
I put some bolts in the IRS that would not come out after the sheet metal was installed. My friend pointed it out to me, prior to riveting the panels in.

[rich grsc]

Glad you got it off, sorry if I came off hard on my other post.

[ydousurf]

Hey Toadster, glad you got that solved. I tell ya, if that's the worst you face on your build, I would gladly trade ya poker build hands! ;) Yeah, get a hold of FFR and they'll pass along the color/code info, and that way you can do some touch-up's where and when necessary. I'm hoping to begin to take my first steps and take the body off tomorrow. I was waiting for my son Nick to fly-in and help kick off the build! Stay at it, I'm following your progress here and on your website too!

Dj

[toadster]

Got the ball joints installed and mounted the upper control arms - the seem VERY close to the frame - is this normal?

Also the manual is backwards, the UCA adjustment is AFTER the mount, so the tolerances are super tight when tightening the upper nuts to secure the UCA setup

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123446

123447 123448

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[PeteMeindl]

The nuts holding the upper control arms on my car are also quite close to the frame - similar to yours, I'd say. Of course, as you know, as you tighten that nut down, it'll move away from the frame a little bit. Keep up the good progress!

[edwardb]

Through edwardb's post, I found the correct color match for the 20th anniversary frame powder coat in a spray can.
If you call FF, they should be able to give you the color number or name. I think the company name is LVP. Might need to search and make sure on that name. I did find I needed to touch up the frame more than once.
The cost is a little high, but for the perfect color match, it was worth it for me.

Agreed. The company name with matching spray can paint for powder coat touch-up is LVP. https://www.lvppaints.com/. For the 20th Anniversary, Factory Five was able to provide the exact powder coat details for the frame (Tiger Drylac DB 703 Glimmer, 49/84340) so no reason they couldn't provide the same info for the 25th. With that, LVP should be able to provide another perfect match.

[Joynt Venture]

Toadster - I've got the exact floor in our garage. How many times have you put your eyeball on the floor looking for a run away washer?!?

[toadster]

Agreed. The company name with matching spray can paint for powder coat touch-up is LVP. https://www.lvppaints.com/. For the 20th Anniversary, Factory Five was able to provide the exact powder coat details for the frame (Tiger Drylac DB 703 Glimmer, 49/84340) so no reason they couldn't provide the same info for the 25th. With that, LVP should be able to provide another perfect match.

awesome - thx for the update! Will give them a call to see if I can get the color match!



Toadster - I've got the exact floor in our garage. How many times have you put your eyeball on the floor looking for a run away washer?!?

haha - it's better than my buddy who has a grey/blue floor - it's IMPOSSIBLE to find anything silver!

[toadster]

Factory Five responded, this is the powder 'color' - not sure how to match with paint...

SKU: SK44145 (https://www.powderbuythepound.com/anodized-light-bronze-matte.html)
Anodized Light Bronze Matte
from Powder buy the Pound

[toadster]

a few days got away from me, busy at work...

before I tighten everything down in the front, I want to check on what types of chassis lube/grease you guys are using?

in the manual, the koni's need white lithium grease on the delrin washers

assuming any white lithium will work...
Lucas Oil 10533 White Lithium Grease
123567
(https://amzn.to/2TvYg3a)

for the chassis/ball-joints - I see some post about certain grease for the energy suspension bushings, and others for ball-joints
the FFR ball joints come pre-filled with a gray lube (not full) and I hear mixing some types of grease is bad...

any ideas on what type of grease (https://amzn.to/3aqfCW1) to use?

no mention in the manual on maintenance fluids other than basic stuff

Engine



Oil Type
Capacity


302
10W-30 (https://amzn.to/2IlPKyA)
5.0 qts.


4.6L/Coyote (https://amzn.to/38onzd4)
5W-20
8.0 qts w/FFR pan



Transmission Oil Type



T-5 (https://amzn.to/3coYQIK)
TKO (https://amzn.to/38qHGHs)
T56 (https://amzn.to/2uWURCs)


Mercon/Dexron III Trans. Fluid (https://amzn.to/2wq2KRl)
2.8 qts.
2.64 qts.
4.0 qts.



2015 IRS


Fluid

Amount


Motorcraft SAE 75W-85 Synthetic Hypoid Gear Lubricant (https://amzn.to/2To6QCm)
3.15-3.30 pt.


Friction Modifier (https://amzn.to/39ms6xS)
3.0-3.5 oz

[toadster]

Passenger side
123604 123605

Driver side
123606 123607

I know the UCAs are flipped side to side - so it looks different side to side - but all is good!

Alignment:
Using the manual measurements, I did some alignment - but need to re-jigger spacing a bit more...
123608

A few tips - if you connect the spindle to both LCA and UCA and attach the steering arm - you can move the whole assembly UP, swing the steering arm into the center of the LCA, and lower the assembly - this captures the steering arm so things stay put while you tighten things down :)
123609

the castle nuts on the LCA ball joint are 1 1/16ths - fortunately I had a socket to fit...
123610

I pre-attached my bolts and spacers for the shocks - they're on backorder till EOM
123603

I forgot the hub nuts are HUGE and need 225-250 ft-lbs - i'll have to go to Autozone to rent this...
123611

best part of the night was this! ONE LESS BOX!
123612

[toadster]

also, contemplating a disassembly of the UCA to perform the trimming of the UCA bolts and sleeves... seems this is a popular thing to do to give more flexibility in alignment

123615

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29449-Upper-control-arms-amp-Rough-Alignment-Mk4

yay? or nay?

seems MUCH simpler to just do it now... ;)

[Mark Eaton]

do it now

[Jeff Kleiner]

do it now

That's a no brainer!

Jeff

[toadster]

That's a no brainer!

Jeff

on it now...

LOL my skillz are bad with the sawzall...
123821 123822 123823

wait for it...
123824
:rolleyes: :p

sanded it quite a bit, a lot closer to flat
123825

[toadster]

ok - 1 step forward, 2 steps back...

posted my progress on 'the other site' and it was determined that I finally got the sleeves trimmed properly and squared up - BUT the steering arms are backwards, AND I have the spindles on the wrong sides...

oh fun, more wrenching later!

but on a more positive note, I got my first bench grinder (used to square up the sleeves that I trimmed poorly with the sawzall) for $42, yeah it's not the greatest - but it did the job! and I got the stand which makes it portable!

It worked great! WEN 4276 2.1-Amp 6-Inch Bench Grinder with Flexible Work Light
124007 (https://amzn.to/2WaNqT9)

I did get more boxes on Monday, got the catted headers!
124008

here's the driver side UCA with 9" front setting and 7.375" rear which should place it around 8 degrees caster - pardon the anti-seize smear...
124009

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[Caddy Dad]

BTW if you want to remove the tone ring on the front hubs, check out edwardB post. Easy to do with a dremel and hammer. Cut a slot about 2/3 the way through the ring then insert a screwdriver/chisel. A few taps with a hammer and the ring will split right in two. I don't know what kind of metal it is but its really quite brittle.

Keep making progress! Build is looking good

[toadster]

ok it's been a week since an update, when I posted my last update - the world still had toilet paper on the shelves... LOL

I've been busy, but it's nice working from home - I can take a break and go work on the car :cool:

The folks online informed me that I had my spindles on the wrong side of the car, so some disassembly occurred, getting the ball joints separate from the spindle was puzzling me - but @Jeff Kleiner helped show me where to 'hit' the sleeves to release the ball joints, a few good whacks with a "metal" hammer and they popped out...
124436

As part of disassembly, I accidentally stripped out the rear UCA sleeve last weekend, and ordered a new one
SPC 92045 Build Your Own Control Arm Adjusting Sleeve (https://amzn.to/395Qinn), and for $25 I wasn't going to complain...

I got the new part, and trimmed it "again" this time used a hacksaw with a fine blade, worked perfectly! re-trimmed the bolt that was galled (see 2nd pic), still plenty of threads - and everything went back together wonderfully!
124437 124438

Now that I got the UCAs re-aligned, the castle nuts torqued - I was ready for brakes...

The 25th anniversary car comes with Wilwood that are different than what is provided on FFRs website
and the directions are DIFFERENT!

124432

The directions sent with the brakes were for the top-loading calipers...
124433
as I finished the installation, I realized I couldn't install the pads, so I had to disassemble, install the pads, and re-mount them...

Here are the correct directions...
https://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds834.pdf

the results so far
124434 124435

still waiting for the KONIs, but now I can focus on the rear IRS...

[toadster]

next step was to prep the IRS parts...

removing the rear studs from the hubs was pretty easy, simple mount and hammer out...

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will go visit a buddy to press in the new ones instead of killing myself with a torque wrench and lugnut...

[toadster]

drilling out the rear spindles requires a 5/8" bit, off to Home Depot to nab one...

IRWIN Drill Bit, Silver and Deming, 5/8-Inch (91140) $13
124442 (https://amzn.to/2UrvWzo)

need some strong wrists for this bit for sure, go slow and use some oil!! I taped a cup underneath the spindle to catch all the aluminum ribbons... worked pretty well and saves from getting aluminum bits on the floor to be picked up by car tires, shoes, doggy feet, etc...

124443

trimming the ears off the rear spindles - oh man, that was fun LOL

the directions say to use a wood bit with 14TPI or less as the smaller toothed blades will get gummed up with Aluminum...

124444

so I started with a 6TPI wood blade, shook the living hell out of my arm, my workbench, my vise, and my garage wall - enough to get my wife to come out and as WTF was going on :rolleyes:

I figured, I'll switch to a carbide blade... bad thing is they're usually a bit wider - and didn't really help much but it got me through the first spindle

124445

for the 2nd spindle I decided to switch to starting with a hacksaw - the blade is very thin, and has tons of teeth, surprisingly it bit into the aluminum quickly.
So i opted for a metal blade in the sawzall - 14TPI, nice thin kerf...

i added a few drops of oil - and it was MUCH smoother and about 1/4 the time that the first one took...

wire wheeled the rough edges, and pretty happy with the results!

124446

last part was to drill the mounting holes on the rear diff... NOT aluminum, and wrists be damned! same lovely 5/8" drill bit - use oil, and patience!

124447

time to hoof this 93lb beast into the chassis...

[Caddy Dad]

This all sounds way too familiar, bench shaking, wrist hurting etc. LOL. But I found it was easier to drill out the IRS differential rather than the spindles. I sure was glad that part was over with! By the time I got to install the diff, it actually went in fairly easily with the engine lift and ratchet straps as per many posts on here. Good luck!

[Fixit]

This might be of some help when you mount the differential (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27544-The-40-Watt-Garage-9365-Waiting-for-Nice-Weather&p=333514&viewfull=1#post333514)

[toadster]

This might be of some help when you mount the differential (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27544-The-40-Watt-Garage-9365-Waiting-for-Nice-Weather&p=333514&viewfull=1#post333514)

Thanks John - I've been planning my IRS install based on your post :)

just need to wait for the front sleeves for the front bushings to arrive!

[Kmcallahan]

on it now...

LOL my skillz are bad with the sawzall...
123821 123822 123823

wait for it...
123824
:rolleyes: :p

sanded it quite a bit, a lot closer to flat
123825

Toadster
how much you cut off? Just the round part on each sleeve end? I did not do this on mine. I have nothing but time due to this quarantine thing.

[toadster]

Toadster
how much you cut off? Just the round part on each sleeve end? I did not do this on mine. I have nothing but time due to this quarantine thing.

I cut off both circle ends of the UCA rear sleeves, so it's just the hexagonal shape, no circles on either end - trust me, use a hacksaw in the vice or bandsaw
the inner threads need to be cut and they're steel, so takes more persuasion with a long session on the hacksaw

124592

just the yellow highlights - probably 1/4-1/3" - you don't need a ton of extra room, but this will allow for more caster

no need to cut the front sleeves as you can get the 9" extension as built

[Kmcallahan]

Thanks for the info, I will take care of this. Good luck with the build.

[toadster]

got a lot prepped to install the IRS - waiting on 6 parts from FFR (shipping them out today!) hooray!

drilled the spindle arms
124641

cut the ears off...
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drilled the differential (wrist-breaker!)
124645

mounted the upper control arms
124638

press-fit the new lugs into the hubs thx to @TMScrogins and @Dave Borden
124639

protected the half-shafts with some paint to minimize surface rust
124640

mounted the hubs onto the spindles, and everything pre-assembled - waiting on toe adjuster sleeves, a few spacers, and the front IRS bushing sleeves...
https://i.imgur.com/Ef5azvv.png

[toadster]

Still waiting on parts while FFR is on leave...

figured I could Pre-assemble the rear sway bar while waiting

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surprised how much I had to massage the LCAs to adapt the spacers...
124962 124963
124964 124965

[toadster]

more parts are slowly trickling in, still no IRS front sleeves so the 93 pound beast sits on the floor...

I did get the driver footwell panel mounted, and pre-drilled for the FFMetal Firewall Forward (still need to get it powdercoated to match the black enginebay)

126619 126620 126621

the Koni DA 8212 shock bodies finally arrived, so I got them mounted up as well

126622 126623 126624 126625 126626

126627 126628

[toadster]

also started on the willwood pedalbox - had to remove the brake pedal arm to install the whitby one for power brakes
I ended up stretching a c-clip and had to get a replacement at Lowe's .89 cents for two 1/2" c-clips, and I splurged for a nice set of Channellock 8" snap ring pliers since my crappy HF ones were worthless!!

126630 https://i.imgur.com/kxPMGWB.jpg?1 (https://amzn.to/3euyCFS)

also, when replacing the pedal arm, both shims don't fit - but Jeff at Whitby's said it was ok as long as there's no side-to-side play...
126629 126631

[Caddy Dad]

I see you went with the FF Metals firewall forward too. So far I really like it. My only surprise was when I went to mount the Forte's mechanical throttle, I had to add a 2" coupler from McMaster Carr to allow the Heim joints to mount to the 2" square tube.

Enjoy the build!

[toadster]

I see you went with the FF Metals firewall forward too. So far I really like it. My only surprise was when I went to mount the Forte's mechanical throttle, I had to add a 2" coupler from McMaster Carr to allow the Heim joints to mount to the 2" square tube.

Enjoy the build!

Thanks! Fortunately I'll be using the Coyote so no throttle cable...

however, I'm curious how much of the firewall (if any) will need to be cut for the heater/ac setup... it's definitely a BEEFY product for sure!

[GTBradley]

Thanks! Fortunately I'll be using the Coyote so no throttle cable...

however, I'm curious how much of the firewall (if any) will need to be cut for the heater/ac setup... it's definitely a BEEFY product for sure!
I can tell you from experience that with the firewall forward a heater and a full-size glovebox can be done. Even with the Coyote, but it is tight. Let me know when you get to that point if you want any input.

Bradley

[toadster]

took my FFMetal firewall and Boyd's Tank to the powdercoater - should be ready this week, then I can mount the firewall...

decided to move forward with the front swaybar installation - reading ahead I could have save a step by not mounting the lower shock bolts, but oh well - onto the installation...

mounting the swaybar is super easy, 4 hex-head bolts and nuts on the front frame

126880

btw - a T-50 head fits perfectly in a 5/8" hex nut if you don't have a 5/8 allen wrench (mine only went up to 1/2")
trimming the rod ends to 1/2" was the same as the rear swaybar, simple hacksaw job in 5 minutes

remove the lower shock bolts, use a jack to remove some pressure and it will slide right out
126879

finally the whole front suspension is DONE!
126878

[Joe D]

I looked thru the thread so far and didn't see that you had fixed this but the front passengers side UCA is upside down.

[Fman]

took my FFMetal firewall and Boyd's Tank to the powdercoater - should be ready this week, then I can mount the firewall...

decided to move forward with the front swaybar installation - reading ahead I could have save a step by not mounting the lower shock bolts, but oh well - onto the installation...

mounting the swaybar is super easy, 4 hex-head bolts and nuts on the front frame

126880

btw - a T-50 head fits perfectly in a 5/8" hex nut if you don't have a 5/8 allen wrench (mine only went up to 1/2")

trimming the rod ends to 1/2" was the same as the rear swaybar, simple hacksaw job in 5 minutes

remove the lower shock bolts, use a jack to remove some pressure and it will slide right out
126879

finally the whole front suspension is DONE!
126878

Looking good! If you don't mind me asking, who is doing your powder coating?

[toadster]

used Performance Powder Coating in Orangevale https://www.instagram.com/ppcsb?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet&igsh=ZDNlZDc0MzIxNw==


Jason is a cool dude and does great work!!

127218

Got the ffmetal firewall mounted too
127219

[toadster]

I looked thru the thread so far and didn't see that you had fixed this but the front passengers side UCA is upside down.
Latest pic -the collar for the ball joint is positioned properly

https://i.imgur.com/FKC0UK3.jpg?1 https://i.imgur.com/9Gt2x9o.jpg

[Jeff Kleiner]

Todd,
Before putting that big tank in place do my COUPLER MOD (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?14243-Rear-quick-jack-mounting&highlight=coupler). You can thank me later ;)

Jeff

[Joe D]

Latest pic -the collar for the ball joint is positioned properly

I see how they have changed the plate design now.

Thanks

Joe

[toadster]

Todd,
Before putting that big tank in place do my COUPLER MOD (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?14243-Rear-quick-jack-mounting&highlight=coupler). You can thank me later ;)

Jeff

oh yeah! good reminder!

what length thread do you use for just overriders? (no bumper)

[toadster]

painted the Whitby brake booster and master cylinder, used a hammered black paint - I like the look!

https://i.imgur.com/jZIrI0W.jpg?1 https://i.imgur.com/0ECCRAN.jpg?1

[Ducky2009]

This is a view from the bottom. Looks like you have the pedal stop plate mounted on the top, or you didn't add the spacers between the stop plate and the bottom of the bracket. When mounted on the underside, the lock nut should still be below the top of the plate. That would give you more travel.

AND, Don't use the cable supplied from FFR. It's junk. Hard to push and won't last long before failing (1,000 miles or so in my case). Purchase a Ford cable P/N M-7553-C302. Adjustable on the fork end.

[edwardb]

Still planning a Coyote, right? Then you won't use the clutch switch you just installed. The Coyote control pack comes with a clutch switch that matches the harness. In your Coyote completion kit, Factory Five has a mounting piece that goes on the clutch quadrant you just installed and the footbox. Then the Ford provided switch mounts to that. Check your Coyote installation instructions.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I thought that you plan to use a hydraulic clutch. Am I mistaken? I can tell you that based on the Anniversary car I’m working on that you’re going to want to move your clutch and brake pedal pads as far to the left as possible. I am really not impressed with the latest throttle pedal mounting arrangement...too tight to the brake pedal and needs to be farther forward so that it isn’t on the same plane as the brake & clutch.

Jeff

[toadster]

This is a view from the bottom. Looks like you have the pedal stop plate mounted on the top, or you didn't add the spacers between the stop plate and the bottom of the bracket. When mounted on the underside, the lock nut should still be below the top of the plate. That would give you more travel.
AND, Don't use the cable supplied from FFR. It's junk. Hard to push and won't last long before failing (1,000 miles or so in my case). Purchase a Ford cable P/N M-7553-C302. Adjustable on the fork end.

I'll have to check for spacers, I didn't see any in the bag, or accessory bag either... thx for the pics, that helps


Still planning a Coyote, right? Then you won't use the clutch switch you just installed. The Coyote control pack comes with a clutch switch that matches the harness. In your Coyote completion kit, Factory Five has a mounting piece that goes on the clutch quadrant you just installed and the footbox. Then the Ford provided switch mounts to that. Check your Coyote installation instructions.

yes a coyote, didn't know it came with a separate clutch switch - since I don't have the Engine/Trans yet, I hadn't even thought that far ahead... although the kit is designed for a Coyote
does the Coyote Completion kit come with the engine & ECU? or with the kit? Assuming I use a different gas pedal too?



I thought that you plan to use a hydraulic clutch. Am I mistaken? I can tell you that based on the Anniversary car I’m working on that you’re going to want to move your clutch and brake pedal pads as far to the left as possible. I am really not impressed with the latest throttle pedal mounting arrangement...too tight to the brake pedal and needs to be farther forward so that it isn’t on the same plane as the brake & clutch.

Jeff
oh Jeff - you're right, I'm going with a hydraulic clutch - so I don't even need this quadrant (ugh!) I'll have to reach out to Mike Forte on getting his hydraulic setup...

It really seems that if you deviate from the master plan at all, you have to REALLY think ahead... even this early in the game!
Thx guys! You're awesome!

[Jeff Kleiner]

...does the Coyote Completion kit come with the engine & ECU? or with the kit? Assuming I use a different gas pedal too?



oh Jeff - you're right, I'm going with a hydraulic clutch - so I don't even need this quadrant (ugh!) I'll have to reach out to Mike Forte on getting his hydraulic setup...

It really seems that if you deviate from the master plan at all, you have to REALLY think ahead... even this early in the game!
Thx guys! You're awesome!

The Coyote Completion kit doesn't come with either the engine or ECU; it has to be ordered as an option from Factory Five. Coyote gas pedal is not included with the kit and is part of the controls pack. Yes, a hydraulic clutch will require configuring the pedal box entirely differently than how you have assembled it.

Planning ahead is good---not just early in the game---but before the game even starts ;)

Jeff

[toadster]

The Coyote Completion kit doesn't come with either the engine or ECU; it has to be ordered as an option from Factory Five. Coyote gas pedal is not included with the kit and is part of the controls pack. Yes, a hydraulic clutch will require configuring the pedal box entirely differently than how you have assembled it.

Planning ahead is good---not just early in the game---but before the game even starts ;)

Jeff

ok - so I have the FFR coyote completion kit then :)
16863 - Coyote Installation Kit: Includes Coyote accelerator install and fitment kits (assorted fittings, lines, etc.)

no pedal, just the install parts - got it...

found the gas pedal mount install on P9 https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/Coyote-Gen-3-Fitment-roadster-rev-1B.pdf

I called Mike Forte and ordered the hydraulic master cylinder setup for the clutch.

P74 in the directions above are for a clutch cable system, where can I find directions to modify for hydraulic clutch and clutch switch?
127388

[edwardb]

I mentioned the Coyote fitment kit because you show it on your order form in your linked website. Shouldn't be any question about what's in it. You have the inventory sheets, right? Has all the details. Including the mount for the upper clutch switch I mentioned earlier. Although the Factory Five pieces assume you're using the clutch cable quadrant mod, which you're now removing. Several build threads including mine show how to still mount the switch with a hydraulic setup. The Drive By Wire (DBW) accelerator pedal comes with the Ford Performance control pack. Can't speak for Gen 1 Coyote (never did one) but Gen 2 and Gen 3 use the same DBW pedal.

Highly recommend reviewing the Gen 3 Coyote installation instructions on Factory Five's website: https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/Coyote-Gen-3-Fitment-roadster-rev-1B.pdf.

Also the Ford Performance instructions are on their website and are an important resources as well: https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/instructionsheets/FORDINSTSHTM-6017-M50B.PDF.

[toadster]

I mentioned the Coyote fitment kit because you show it on your order form in your linked website. Shouldn't be any question about what's in it. You have the inventory sheets, right? Has all the details. Including the mount for the upper clutch switch I mentioned earlier. Although the Factory Five pieces assume you're using the clutch cable quadrant mod, which you're now removing. Several build threads including mine show how to still mount the switch with a hydraulic setup. The Drive By Wire (DBW) accelerator pedal comes with the Ford Performance control pack. Can't speak for Gen 1 Coyote (never did one) but Gen 2 and Gen 3 use the same DBW pedal.

Highly recommend reviewing the Gen 3 Coyote installation instructions on Factory Five's website: https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/Coyote-Gen-3-Fitment-roadster-rev-1B.pdf.
Also the Ford Performance instructions are on their website and are an important resources as well: https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/instructionsheets/FORDINSTSHTM-6017-M50B.PDF.

thx again as usual Paul - I wasn't thinking I'd need the instructions for parts I don't have yet, but there are dependencies as has been pointed out - I will be digging into these docs as well..
obviously FFR can't account for every change/mod - and I've already started collecting parts that won't be used in my build (as many have)

[toadster]

ok - re-jiggered the pedalbox - painted all the parts too - ready for the top-mount clutch switch when I get the control-pack :)

127530

is there a need for the lower clutch switch? or is it an extra part now?
I still have the mount, but I'm not seeing a section for in across the 3 manuals (Coyote install, control pack, ffr manual)

painted up more stuff for the power brakes, and rust protected the driveshaft too...

127531 127532

also moved the pedals over far left as suggested, and mounted the Coyote gas pedal bracket
127533

[toadster]

did some frame cutting today to mount the whitby brake booster arm... a little unnerving to cut a perfectly good chassis, it's done nothing wrong to met (yet) LOL

127568 127569 127570

pre-assembled the booster and master cylinder
127571

and realized that I now have to take this all apart a 3rd time to drill the holes for the brake booster LOL
127572

at least my Wilwood clutch master cylinder arrived today from Mike Forte so I can get that mounted up after the booster, and he shipped me the breather port for the IRS too...

really bummed that FFR is OOO till May 18th now!

[Railroad]

Neat job on the cut and fab. Just a note, I would put washers under the bolt head and nut on your mod. JMO.

[toadster]

it's been a busy work week so didn't progress much on the pedal box, I did get some cutting fluid and a step-bit - but realized I need a much longer step bit as you're not supposed to cut metal thicker than the step

the footbox metal is 5mm thick, the pedal box is 3.5mm so both together are almost 9mm... It's just one 3/8" hole so I may just hog it out the rest of the way

on a side note - the skeleton team came through at FFR!
128163 128164
yep! finally got my IRS sleeves and toe adjuster arms!

my son was at work, so I attempted the IRS center installation like many have suggested with some ratchet straps

1. screwed in the rear bolts just enough to support, and initially slid the front bolts in
2. placed a front set of straps behind the front mount points
3. placed a rear set of straps behind the rear mount points
4. note that both straps are tied into mounts on the chassis near the back of the seat box

https://i.imgur.com/4NXvoh4.jpg


slowly getting the center off-ground, I worked both front and back up to where I needed to readjust the straps a bit

https://i.imgur.com/seiJu3p.jpg


the front of the center section needs to go up and over the 4" frame tube, so I dropped the rear straps and kept cranking on the front eventually swinging it over
https://i.imgur.com/eOPEsgU.jpg

the trick to get the back locations in alignment was to use a jack to support the center, while I moved the strap mount points rearward of the center section
I placed those straps toward the front which created a pull effect toward the rear of the vehicle - once everything was aligned, simply slide the front bolts in, and screw in the rears

https://i.imgur.com/coekvNn.jpg

this was quite simple after all said and done, the hardest part was determining the strap points on the body, I was done in about an hour - all torqued down and ready for the rest!

afterwards my wife and I visited some friends and they showed us their '62 Sunbeam Alpine that they've had since the early 70s
https://i.imgur.com/coBgb7F.jpg

[toadster]

ok - it's been a busy week!

Got the rear suspension all dialed in - thanks to FFR for the few missing parts holding this up!

https://i.imgur.com/ZwdgY20.jpg?1

UCA and toe arms installed along with the rear sway-bar
https://i.imgur.com/dQQE2gE.jpg?1

the differential cleaned up - and covers were pulled
https://i.imgur.com/DiVG9lx.jpg?2

pre-lubed the axle shafts and coaxed them in with the mallet
https://i.imgur.com/k1UmWBz.jpg?1 https://i.imgur.com/KaCoBf3.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/7UeD5jf.jpg?2

all tightened up and ready for brakes!
https://i.imgur.com/DESEk3Z.jpg?1

[toadster]

rear brakes are installed

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[toadster]

also, started customizing the wilwood pedal assembly for the upper studs from the power brake booster

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will let it dry overnight and assemble the pedalbox again tomorrow ;)

[toadster]

paint dried, reassembled the pedalbox, pre-installed the steering shaft bushing inside the footbox for clearance

test fit - the wilwood pedalbox needs trimmed to fit the steering shaft bushing on the inside of the footbox, plus you can see how close the tolerances are with the brake booster

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trusty dremel to the rescue (again)
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fits perfectly now... I just need to sand the brake pedal mount, for some reason the booster rod won't slip on - but lunch break is over, will tackle later :)
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I'm thinking this would be a good template for FFR to use if folks will be using the Wilwood Pedalbox AND power brakes... would be really simple for them to convert the existing design

[toadster]

from my last post, the booster arm wouldn't fit over the pedal post, simply sanded down the pedal post

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Whitby ships a slide-pin with the '33 kit, but not the Roadster kit, maybe a miss - but I figure this is secure with a cotter pin :)
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finally have this step done!
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ordered my power steering rack yesterday from FFR, hope to see it soon then I can continue with the steering setup

[Railroad]

You do nice work and keep everything clean. If you would, do me a favor and put flat washers under both ends of those bolts in the frame kick out mod. Just my OCD on some things, others not so much, LOL.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Todd,
You're going to have to take another Mulligan. I see from this photo...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128665&d=1589993349

...that you have sandwiched the footbox front bukhead with the two piece bearing shell. This is incorrect; both halves must be on the same side and in fact when using a brake booster they should be installed on the inside. Additionally, when using a booster the collar with the setscrews should be pointing rearward rather than forward as you currently have it.

Jeff

[toadster]

You do nice work and keep everything clean. If you would, do me a favor and put flat washers under both ends of those bolts in the frame kick out mod. Just my OCD on some things, others not so much, LOL.

poof! your wish is my command! :)

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[toadster]

Todd,
You're going to have to take another Mulligan. I see from this photo...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128665&d=1589993349

...that you have sandwiched the footbox front bukhead with the two piece bearing shell. This is incorrect; both halves must be on the same side and in fact when using a brake booster they should be installed on the inside. Additionally, when using a booster the collar with the setscrews should be pointing rearward rather than forward as you currently have it.

Jeff

actually both pieces are on the inside of the footbox (see pic below) just the bolts are on the front of the box, both bezels and the rotating mass are internal - maybe it's the color of the chassis that's throwing you off
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I've played with the setscrews both directions in/out and it looks like it will work with the way it's setup on the outside using the Replica Parts spacer, there's enough wiggle room, if not, I can loosen and rotate it pretty easily.

[toadster]

Todd,
Before putting that big tank in place do my COUPLER MOD (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?14243-Rear-quick-jack-mounting&highlight=coupler). You can thank me later ;)

Jeff

done!

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18-8 Stainless Steel Coupling Nut 7/16"-20 Thread Size https://www.mcmaster.com/90268A340-90268A340
18-8 Stainless Steel Socket Head Screw 7/16"-20 Thread Size, 3/4" Long https://www.mcmaster.com/92196A685-92196A685

[toadster]

I changed my power steering option a while back when I realized the epowersteering.com setup wouldn’t fit in the engine bay with the Coyote motor. So I opted to get the KRC power steering kit from FFR. The parts finally came in and I complemented the kit with some options as well. My rack showed up a few weeks back, along with other parts, I believe the only thing on my POL now is the front bumper, and 2 items from the PS rack.


First, by many recommendations I opted to get the Hose and Fitting kit (https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/hose-and-fitting-group-for-ffr-16137-coyote-power-steering-kit/) and Offset Rack Mounting Kit for FFR Roadster (https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/offset-rack-mounting-kit-for-ffr-roadster-and-coupe/) from Breeze Automotive.
As usual from Mark, both are high quality kits – highly recommended!!
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A few more items to tweak the setup. Many have said the KRC steering pump feels a bit 'over-boosted' so a new KRC Power Steering 25304000 flow control fitting (https://amzn.to/2AhgEqZ) can help with that. (won't need it yet, but have it in house)
Also added the Moog ES2150RL (https://amzn.to/2Aeufzq) tie-rod ends as they are much beefier than the ones that come with the FFR kit.

Now onto the install... first I had to remove the bushings and sleeves from the power rack - simple enough with a few good whacks with a hammer, then install the offset rack mount kit from Breeze. Mine slid right in, no interference. Then it's time to mount to the chassis. The MKIV didn't need any chassis modifications - just had to work the angles and it fit perfectly! Measuring side to side, the differences were within .125" between both sides, so I tightened the rack down.

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btw - one of these universal sockets work great on the steering gear to move the rack back and forth
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Next was to setup the tie rod ends, this is where I learned yet another way to inadvertently put the wrong side parts on.
The steering arms were swapped side to side so the TRE didn't fit (it's an angled hole). (separate thread on this!)
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So yes, I had to remove the calipers, rotors and hubs from both fronts to get enough clearance to swap out the arms.
But once swapped, the TRE fit perfectly with ~53" side to side (rough alignment estimate).
I did swap out the hub nuts - this is an area that you can save a lot of money, if you look at Summit they'll sell a single nut for $22! crazy!
What you need Dorman (615-098.1) 36mm Hex Size x M24-2.0 Thread Size Prevailing Torque Spindle Nut ~$14/ea (you can find cheaper too!) (https://amzn.to/37cMEIP)

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I also was able to mount up Russ Thompson's ABS brackets - pending the ABS cables I need to purchase.
129679

[toadster]

Now that the rack was installed, I proceeded to the steering shafts.

I had zero issues putting the first knuckle on, wasn't tight at all, and also drilled the divot in the upper shaft
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I had to swap the footbox bearing to have the allen threads inside the footbox due to the power brake booster interaction...
I pray I never have to undo this once the panels are in place as it will require a great amount of contortion to get to this spot!
I have the Russ Thompson turn signal, so I'm holding of on finishing the top section right now to read through the docs a bit more...

[Jeff Kleiner]

Todd,
Just so you know...don't get too carried away and make that steering shaft installation permanent just yet. It'll have to be disconnected from the rack and moved out of the way to install the Coyote.

Jeff

[toadster]

lots going on this past weekend, and I finally got to use the nutsert tool for the first time, dang that's a great tool!
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I started fitting panels on the car and applying insulation prior to mounting because everyone says it's a PITA once it's in place already!
upper passenger side panel and driver front footbox, another great place to use themal/sound scraps because nobody will see them, and they'll help keep the footbox cool!
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center dash panel, made insulation for those small areas - no sense in throwing away scraps because they fill in the gaps!
using spare boxes to make more templates, hope to get more panels setup and fitted...
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dropped off 9 more parts at the powder coater, soon will be able to mount the Breeze battery box and radiator shield
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[toadster]

finished up the passenger box today (sans floor for now)

my son stopped by to help align everything and put some clecos in - i finished up today while I was on a call :)
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just have to fill in the seams with some thermotec and it's buttoned up!

plus my son brought his GT350 over to show off his new JLT intake and has a Lund tune - dang that car rips!! plus the Avalanche Grey matches my Raptor :)
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[Railroad]

Just an idea I did not use,,, consider putting the carpet in the back of the foot boxes, before closing them up.

[toadster]

Just an idea I did not use,,, consider putting the carpet in the back of the foot boxes, before closing them up.

yeah, I'm contemplating this before I put in the floor... I can't imagine the contortion needed to get in there!

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[Fman]

Todd your making some great progress, well done!

How much Thermo tech did you end up ordering? 60x36 piece? Are you planning on doing Lizard skin or Thermo-tech only?

[toadster]

Todd your making some great progress, well done!

How much Thermo tech did you end up ordering? 60x36 piece? Are you planning on doing Lizard skin or Thermo-tech (https://amzn.to/3cXWaRm) only?

Thanks Travis (catching up to you slowly) :)

I ordered 2 of the 60x36 boxes, but I'll probably go with at least 1 (maybe 2) more boxes - I think I'm sticking with just the Thermo-Tec
I may go with an engine bay ZeroClearance (https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/zero-clearance-aluminum-fiberglass-psa-insulation/) type product (from Breeze of course)

https://i.imgur.com/wlikEyq.png

I'd only use it in the lower part of the engine bay near the headers - this would give 2 layers of insulation: ZeroClearance (https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/zero-clearance-aluminum-fiberglass-psa-insulation/) - footbox aluminum - Thermo-Tec (https://amzn.to/3cXWaRm) - carpet

[toadster]

Yesterday was great! Got to meet up with about 12-14 local owners, builders, drivers! Thanks Eddie @vspeeds for setting up!

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got back home and installed the boyd welding tank!
I have to admit the step-drill bit was awesome to use here! Wish I had a 90-degree drill chuck - would have come in handy here for sure
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I got creative and used 4 bungee cables to suspend the tank into the space - the tolerances are great for this tank. The front tabs are wider than the 3/4" chassis, but a few extra nuts snugged it up nicely.

130004 if you don't have a 2nd set of hands, the bungees work great!

all buttoned up - just used the strap bolts and nyloc nuts from the stock tank setup to mount into the chassis, also did the Kleiner Mod so I don't have to get back in there :)
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I may try to devise a mini-drop tank setup here - I have about 1.3" under the support V arms, so about 2" of space can be found - it won't give a ton of space, but it's not trivial either

[Lancaster Lad]

Mr ...ster

I wish I had seen the way you mounted your tank before I mounted mine. I used the stock straps and had a
heck of a time re bending to match the Boyd shape.
But I do have a question, how you plan to remove the tank with the lower aluminum in place unless you plan for access
holes to reach the cap bolts. You may have a plan if so I would like to know because I might copy your idea.
I never thought of bolting to the front down legs, everybody's mods just slows down my project more.
Thank you for posting your progress.

Cecil

[toadster]

Mr ...ster

I wish I had seen the way you mounted your tank before I mounted mine. I used the stock straps and had a heck of a time re bending to match the Boyd shape.
But I do have a question, how you plan to remove the tank with the lower aluminum in place unless you plan for access holes to reach the cap bolts. You may have a plan if so I would like to know because I might copy your idea.
I never thought of bolting to the front down legs, everybody's mods just slows down my project more.
Thank you for posting your progress.

Cecil

good point a probably will add some small access holes for the 5/8ths Allen wrench on top - the front mounts should be easy to access

[edwardb]

good point a probably will add some small access holes for the 5/8ths Allen wrench on top - the front mounts should be easy to access

I was thinking the same thing when looking at the pics. No access to those cap bolts once everything's together. Obviously hope to not have to drop the tank. But it could happen. I'd consider just making them permanent, e.g. a tack weld to the frame. Or some other method making access to the top unnecessary. One other suggestion. You may want to just cut off those rear tank strap tabs. Especially the RH side where they protrude into the trunk.

[achi]

Hi Todd,

I am enjoying watching this build come along. I am curious about the Boyd Tank, it looks great tucked up in the frame. Would you have any pics from the back at level of the tank, and from the side, just to see how low is sits in relation to the frame. Would be much appreciated as I was considering a Boyd tank for my build when I get to that point as my plans include the 390 and the extra fuel capacity would be a big bonus.

Great Build!!

Thanks!!

Cheers,
Achi

[toadster]

I was thinking the same thing when looking at the pics. No access to those cap bolts once everything's together. Obviously hope to not have to drop the tank. But it could happen. I'd consider just making them permanent, e.g. a tack weld to the frame. Or some other method making access to the top unnecessary. One other suggestion. You may want to just cut off those rear tank strap tabs. Especially the RH side where they protrude into the trunk.

yep, i'm trying to determine how to match the paint color if i cut the trunk tabs off...


Hi Todd,

I am enjoying watching this build come along. I am curious about the Boyd Tank, it looks great tucked up in the frame. Would you have any pics from the back at level of the tank, and from the side, just to see how low is sits in relation to the frame. Would be much appreciated as I was considering a Boyd tank for my build when I get to that point as my plans include the 390 and the extra fuel capacity would be a big bonus.
Great Build!!

your wish is my command!

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as you can see I could have put the rear tab 'above' the rear chassis rail and moved the tank up 3/4" overall - and there is room to do that - but I also have about 2" of depth from the top of the trunk bars to the top of the tank - so I can do some drop trunk magic - if nothing else it will keep some smaller things from rolling all around the trunk :)

[Lancaster Lad]

Mr toadster

I noticed in your latest pic that you have a rag stuffed in the inlet. I did that also the baggie thing but did you
know that a black ABS rubber cap fits perfect. I didn't trust my self that something wouldn't fall in. You don't
need to use the clamp just the cap. Don't mean to pick on your build I enjoy your buildmanship just looking
out for you.

[toadster]

Mr toadster

I noticed in your latest pic that you have a rag stuffed in the inlet. I did that also the baggie thing but did you
know that a black ABS rubber cap fits perfect. I didn't trust my self that something wouldn't fall in. You don't
need to use the clamp just the cap. Don't mean to pick on your build I enjoy your buildmanship just looking
out for you.

yeah, I hear you - I forgot to keep the cap covers that Boyd shipped with the tank - so I improvise, will probably find a cap like you stated to be a little more sturdy

edit: ok - i cheaped out and just used some tape :cool:
130095

[achi]

Hello Todd,

Thank you very much for the pics!!

It fits like a glove in there. Very nice and sturdy unit.

Cheers,
Achi

[edwardb]

yep, i'm trying to determine how to match the paint color if i cut the trunk tabs off...

LH side is 100% covered by the trunk aluminum. Impossible to see once everything is together. You will need to add a small patch piece on the aluminum. RH side would still be visible, but only from the bottom and behind the tank. I'm as anal as anyone, but any color even close will be unnoticeable IMO. I may have posted this before. But https://www.lvppaints.com/ will provide paint that matches your powder coat. Used them on my 20th Anniversary build and it's excellent. They can match if you know the exact powder coat mfg and color. Or they can match to a physical sample.

[Lancaster Lad]

Sorry to bother you but I just checked my frame to tank clearance.
I have 1 3/4 tight or about 1 1/2 deep area for cubby.
Did you look at the upper trunk area between the diff and the tank?
I don't know who to give credit to but some one took that space for storage.
There is at least 7in deep and over 24in wide. Could also be larger with a
stepped bottom. Don't know where your battery is going, I going up front
with Breeze tray.
The new powder coat color is growing on me.
Thank you for sharing your build with us.

[toadster]

LH side is 100% covered by the trunk aluminum. Impossible to see once everything is together. You will need to add a small patch piece on the aluminum. RH side would still be visible, but only from the bottom and behind the tank. I'm as anal as anyone, but any color even close will be unnoticeable IMO. I may have posted this before. But https://www.lvppaints.com/ will provide paint that matches your powder coat. Used them on my 20th Anniversary build and it's excellent. They can match if you know the exact powder coat mfg and color. Or they can match to a physical sample.

I have a piece of the chassis that I cut to do the brake booster so I'm going to take to a local shop to see if I can color match it...
The feedback from Factory Five (Tony Z) is that the color is Anodized Medium Bronze Matte by Powder Buy the Pound (https://www.powderbuythepound.com/anodized-medium-bronze-matte.html)
130096


Sorry to bother you but I just checked my frame to tank clearance.
I have 1 3/4 tight or about 1 1/2 deep area for cubby. Did you look at the upper trunk area between the diff and the tank?
I don't know who to give credit to but some one took that space for storage. There is at least 7in deep and over 24in wide. Could also be larger with a
stepped bottom. Don't know where your battery is going, I going up front with Breeze tray. The new powder coat color is growing on me.
Thank you for sharing your build with us.

I have the breeze battery tray as well, its at the powder coater - just doing black to match the engine bay.
Yes, there is a lot of 'air space' behind the tank and back wall - my one friend opened that whole section above the rear seats and it's rather spacious.
Another idea is to mount the estopp system in there - like JohnK did https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31167-Greek-Guys-Garage-Roadster-Build-9509-(E-Stopp-parking-brake-mount-finished)&p=415574&viewfull=1#post415574

[Straversi]

What is the capacity of that tank? Nice work by the way.
-Steve

[toadster]

What is the capacity of that tank? Nice work by the way.
-Steve

online they say 20 gallons, but others on here have said anywhere from 24-26 - pretty substantial!
Thanks! :)

[Rat2274]

Toadster,
I too, am in Folsom, and have also placed an order for A Mk4 Roadster from FFR.
will you send me an email to Rat2274@msn.com and I will share more details.
I would love to talk builds with you.
Rat2274

[toadster]

Toadster,
I too, am in Folsom, and have also placed an order for A Mk4 Roadster from FFR.
will you send me an email to Rat2274@msn.com and I will share more details.
I would love to talk builds with you.
Rat2274

absolutely anytime! will email...

[toadster]

it's been a long couple of weeks, lots of 'work' getting in the way of the car- but that's life!

I started pulling together the radiator setup, and it takes a decent amount of prep-work to get things together.
Since I'm using the Breeze radiator shroud, upper hinge and lower mount there is one small adjustment needed - trimming the 3/4" segments that are connected to the upper 3/4" cross-bar
since the bronze color is unique on this frame, I tried to match it closely - not that it will really ever be seen. upon initial spray it looks 'close' but when you overlay it on top - it's still too light...

not something I want to spend $120 minimum on for color matched paint... at least it's protected

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the next parts just require a bunch of holes, 14 across the top radiator tab front, and 2 in the rear top tab that align with the support bolts.

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got late last night, so I was able to line things up and clamp into place - still need the lower mount installed and adjust to 58-degrees (will be using the replicaparts radiator panel (http://www.replicaparts.com/Roadster%20aluminum%20panel%20page.htm))

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still a bit puzzled how the top hinge connects to the 3/4" bar - there are 4 bolts with lock washers, but nothing for the bolts to 'grab' like a nut?

130555

I already rivnut'ed the shroud, so that will hold the fan in place.

added 4 rivnuts for the top hinge and mounted the fan tonight


I'll run the brake lines before I final mount this part.

[toadster]

Slow goin this week, also working on installing pergo in my office (too many projects!)
130930

finally mounted the rad after fitting up the FFR panels, the ReplicaParts panel cost more to ship than the part costs :(

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[jiriza84641]

Looking good buddy!

[toadster]

cleaned up a few items yesterday that have been putting off...

installed more Thermo-Tec (https://amzn.to/2Of1SEF) on the FF Metal firewall, maybe overkill but would be impossible later without a teardown...
will definitely be buying a few more rolls of this stuff to get everything covered, 2 rolls isn't nearly enough

131593

my ABS sensors (Motorcraft BRAB-406 (https://amzn.to/2WaMb5N)) arrived after I had the rear brakes installed, and those sensors are long and too stiff to place (see 1st pic) with the rear bracket installed
had to undo the parking brake, rotor, caliper and loosen the bracket to install (I'm getting good at rebuilding!) you can see in the 3rd pic below how the bracket and wire are aligned, hence he teardown/rebuild
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Next was to installed the breeze battery tray. I love Mike's stuff but I wasn't too keen on screwing a bolt into the 4" rail with no backing, so I opted to install an M8 nutsert (https://amzn.to/3gSeTjY) instead
This was a funny story as I started getting the holes prepped and the one closest to the side is pretty tight and as I was compressing the nutsert, I was stuck against either the cross-bar or the jack stand
Hence, I had to jack the car up, replace the jack stand further back and then proceed... I nutsert was mangled in this process but once reset; the new one fit great!

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This battery tray isn't going anywhere! and BTW if you don't have an air-rivet gun (https://amzn.to/3270egz) - GET ONE, seriously it's so effortless to set and shoot rivets!
next up will most likely be to drill out the rest of my sheetmetal, waiting for my rivet-fan (https://amzn.to/2C2lfOD) to arrive so I can lay out better lines!

Aircraft Tool Supply Rivet Fan Spacing Tool (https://amzn.to/3iSsk58)

131600 (https://amzn.to/3iSsk58)

[GTBradley]

Nice work so far. I can tell you that 4 rolls of the Thermo-Tec will do the entire cockpit and then some. However, you have to use your big scrap prices too.

[toadster]

Nice work so far. I can tell you that 4 rolls of the Thermo-Tec will do the entire cockpit and then some. However, you have to use your big scrap prices too.


Thanks! That's what I've realized as well. Can't really over-do it with this stuff it lays out so easily and yes, I use all my scraps in all the places you never will see :)

[toadster]

Made more progress today on the driver footbox. Initially i was a bit puzzled on the kick-out panel, but Travis (Fman (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/member.php?29520-Fman)) helped with some pics of his setup :o
One of the issues of the 25th anniversary car is that the panels didn't come pre-staged on the chassis, just 2 boxes of panels and lots of guesswork!

I have to say, whoever developed clecos - I pray he's a rich man, because these things are awesome! I can't imagine building without them to be honest!

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131735 131736 131737 131734

aligning all the panels is pretty tricky, plus I had to notch the small front panel to make room for the nut/bolt setup for the Whitby brake brace

131738

overall, pretty happy with the progress... it was 88F in the garage and that was with my portable A/C blasting - better than the 102F outside for sure!

[toadster]

some more fun drilling holes last night... you don't realize how many holes are in this car until you're 2 hours into it and there's a lot more to go!

131829 131830 131831

I'll most likely keep things cleco'ed in place until I know I'm done working around that section...
still need to figure out the mini drop trunk ideas and will have to change the locations for the pump and sender holes as well

[Straversi]

My brother came down to visit and we drilled, sanded, clear coated and riveted panels for three days. We had a good time working together and the time flew by, but man, was I happy to have had help on that project. Your project is looking good!
-Steve

[JB in NOVA]

I have to say, whoever developed clecos - I pray he's a rich man, because these things are awesome! I can't imagine building without them to be honest!


Toadster,

I’m also a big fan of cleco’s, which are totally ingenious, and I wondered who actually invented them. Apparently, the “cleco” tool was originally commercialized the Cleveland Pneumatic Tool Company. So, Cleveland . . . Co . . . = “CLECO.” I imagine this tool really came in handy for aircraft production during WWII.

The Cleveland Pneumatic Tool Company filed a patent in 1941 for this tool, which looks a lot like a cleco tool: https://patents.google.com/patent/US2328866?oq=2%2c328%2c866
If we are to give these inventors full credit for the cleco, then that credit belongs to Paul Van Sittert and Andrew J. Lev, who were employees of the Cleveland Pneumatic Tool Co. at the outbreak of WWII.
I would note, however, that a French citizen, Mr. Jean J. Blanc, invented something strikingly similar in 1936: https://patents.google.com/patent/US2328866?oq=2136875

I’ll leave it to historians to figure out who the “true” cleco inventor is. But I agree it’s a great tool!

BTW, I'm a patent attorney, hence my weird obsession with who invented what.

[toadster]

started the fuel lines yesterday... I have fragola PTFE lines and AN fittings, an Earl's and Russell setup for the in-tank pump

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initial cut was with tin snips LOL - yeah that wasn't good
2nd cut was with a hacksaw with a fine tooth blade - if the ends are taped up good - it's not a bad solution
3rd cut was with a dremel and cutoff wheel - was easy but dusty!

2ft done, about 12 more to go! :)

[toadster]

drilled about 350 holes tonight... geesh! when does it stop!? LOL

132903 132904 132905 132906 132907 132908 132910 132911

did more sound/heat deadener too

132909

[JohnK]

Hahaha - hang in there... it eventually ends. ;)

I spent what seemed like an eternity drilling holes. When I finally finished I spent an entire afternoon with the shop vac cleaning the garage. I'm so glad that phase is over.

[Fman]

started the fuel lines yesterday... I have fragola PTFE lines and AN fittings, an Earl's and Russell setup for the in-tank pump

132606 132605 132602 132603 132604 132635

initial cut was with tin snips LOL - yeah that wasn't good
2nd cut was with a hacksaw with a fine tooth blade - if the ends are taped up good - it's not a bad solution
3rd cut was with a dremel and cutoff wheel - was easy but dusty!

2ft done, about 12 more to go! :)

Todd, would you mind to put some links on what you ordered from Summit? (fuel filter, fittings, amount of line) I notice you have some type of jig/wrench to attach the -AN fittings? I am going to latch on to your fuel line solutions, assuming you are going to run the Fragola lines all way to engine with no hard lines?

Keep 'er up! Builds looking great!:D

[ydousurf]

Hahaha. Yeah, I got a good chuckle off that! How many licks to the center of a tootsie pop? That silly but very pondering commercial we all loved. It's time that we update it.

Mr Todd, how many holes drilled to the completion of one's dream? I'm starting to think the builder might not know either, since I've already lost count myself. So, I guess it is true?! The world may never know...

Build is looking good and you're way ahead of me. Keep at it!

Dj

[toadster]

Hahaha. Yeah, I got a good chuckle off that! How many licks to the center of a tootsie pop? That silly but very pondering commercial we all loved. It's time that we update it.

Mr Todd, how many holes drilled to the completion of one's dream? I'm starting to think the builder might not know either, since I've already lost count myself. So, I guess it is true?! The world may never know...
Build is looking good and you're way ahead of me. Keep at it!
Dj

Thanks Dj! LOL, yeah there is SO much more to drill!!!



Todd, would you mind to put some links on what you ordered from Summit? (fuel filter, fittings, amount of line) I notice you have some type of jig/wrench to attach the -AN fittings? I am going to latch on to your fuel line solutions, assuming you are going to run the Fragola lines all way to engine with no hard lines?
Keep 'er up! Builds looking great!:D

Thanks Travis!

Here's my list from Summit


Part Number
Item
Price
Qty
Total



AEI-15606 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-15606)
FITTING
$14.06
3
$42.18



AER-FCM3661 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fcm3661)
Aluminum Vise Jaw Inserts
$34.99
1
$34.99



FRA-600106 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fra-600106)
STR HOSE END
$10.99
6
$65.94



FRA-602006 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fra-602006)
TEFLON HOSE 20 FT
$82.99
1
$82.99



SUM-900106 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900106)
#6 AN WRENCH 11/16 HEX
$9.99
1
$9.99













you may want to play with end-types - I initially got all straight end connectors - but they're not too bad price wise to switch as needed.

[Fman]

Thanks Dj! LOL, yeah there is SO much more to drill!!!




Thanks Travis!

Here's my list from Summit


Part Number
Item
Price
Qty
Total



AEI-15606 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-15606)
FITTING
$14.06
3
$42.18



AER-FCM3661 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fcm3661)
Aluminum Vise Jaw Inserts
$34.99
1
$34.99



FRA-600106 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fra-600106)
STR HOSE END
$10.99
6
$65.94



FRA-602006 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fra-602006)
TEFLON HOSE 20 FT
$82.99
1
$82.99



SUM-900106 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900106)
#6 AN WRENCH 11/16 HEX
$9.99
1
$9.99













you may want to play with end-types - I initially got all straight end connectors - but they're not too bad price wise to switch as needed.

Thank you! Mucho appreciated!:cool:

Do you have a link for the fuel filter? I like your style you are using much better, assuming it would work fine with my 427/EFI setup as well?

[toadster]

Thank you! Mucho appreciated!:cool:

Do you have a link for the fuel filter? I like your style you are using much better, assuming it would work fine with my 427/EFI setup as well?

The Aeromotive setup I have is nice, it's a bit tight though, will have to disconnect both ends and push the filter up to unmount
the 10 micron is perfect for EFI setup

my setup is the Aeromotive 12347 Filter, In-Line, 10-Micron Fabric Element, 2" OD (https://amzn.to/3kfSU90)
with the Aeromotive 12701 Filter Mounting Bracket, Black Spring Steel, Rubber Coated (https://amzn.to/3fyvRCy)

If i changed the build, I'd most likely use
Aeromotive 12317 Filter, Canister, 10-Micron Fabric Element, 3/8" NPT Port, Bright-Dip Red Top/Black Cup, SS Series (https://amzn.to/31gKVzC)
because the mount stays put and you simply unscrew/drop the filter, no disconnecting needed

[toadster]

finally pulled the trigger on the Wilwood EPBs, I got a better deal going through Jegs, versus Summit Racing as Jegs has a $30 off over $750 deal and the taxes were about 1/2 of Summit Racing... came to just over $1k

in typical guy fashion, no directions - and I lined up the caliper and sighed, awww crud they interact with the springs :(

135222 135223

so, I prayed the directions would tell me differently...

EPB CALIPER - Mount the EPB calipers per the installation instructions included with your specific Wilwood brake kit, reference
Figure 3. EPB calipers are left and right handed, however they can be used on either side of the vehicle to best suit your specific
application.

light bulb turned on, there is an offset that changes side to side , so I swapped sides - voila! They fit! They're close, but should have no issues!
135224 135225135226

here's both sides mounted - the new EPB calipers have 'wilwood' printed on them where the regular ones were blank...
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sorry for all the dust, shows you how much ash got into the garage the past few weeks with all the CA fires this month...

[David Hodgkins]

So those are electric parking brakes?? I wonder if it's a universal kit. Gotta check that out, very cool!

:)

[toadster]

So those are electric parking brakes?? I wonder if it's a universal kit. Gotta check that out, very cool!

:)

yep! just electric wires, no cables!

the Kit i ordered that fits the .81" rotors is 950-140-15978-BK (https://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/140-15978-BK/10002/-1)
if you want Red it will be 950-140-15978-RD (https://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/140-15978-RD/10002/-1)

[JohnK]

That's awesome! Thanks for being the trailblazer on that. Definitely looks like an easier and cleaner install than the E-Stopp, and by the time I factor in what I spent to make my custom mounting tray and custom parking brake cables for the E-Stopp, the Wilwoods aren't that much more expensive. What else did they come with in the way of a controller, switch, etc?

The smoke and ash was also pretty bad here in the Bay Area the last couple of weeks. It's only been in the last couple of days that we've started getting good air quality again. All the cars are covered in ash, but I'm reluctant to wash them because that will guarantee another round of smoke and ash.

[toadster]

That's awesome! Thanks for being the trailblazer on that. Definitely looks like an easier and cleaner install than the E-Stopp, and by the time I factor in what I spent to make my custom mounting tray and custom parking brake cables for the E-Stopp, the Wilwoods aren't that much more expensive. What else did they come with in the way of a controller, switch, etc?

The smoke and ash was also pretty bad here in the Bay Area the last couple of weeks. It's only been in the last couple of days that we've started getting good air quality again. All the cars are covered in ash, but I'm reluctant to wash them because that will guarantee another round of smoke and ash.

the whole setup looks like this
135244

comes with the controller, wiring and a switch for the dash (or wherever)
135245

[Kmcallahan]

Toadster,
Your build is coming along pretty good.

[toadster]

man after a long break, back into it again...

my son stopped over last night and we tackled the front ABS sensors which has been bugging me for a while
The Russ Thompson ABS brackets are designed for the '95 ABS sensors but I have the '07-09 GT500 ABS setup so different sensors Motorcraft BRAB-290 (https://amzn.to/2SWAhdG)

thankfully my son has better vision than me (LOL) and noticed that @johngeorge had drilled some new holes for these sensors!

we pulled the ABS brackets and drilled a few holes and now the sensors are perfect!

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baby steps but progress!!!

I ordered a bracket for my HCU since mine came without one - but I can't complain, the GT500 HCU was $15, and I found the bracket for $20 shipped LOL
Next I'll be mounting the brake reservoirs and figuring out the placement of the HCU to run the brake lines.

[Fman]

Back in the game! Looking good my friend, I commend you for your brake system that ABS is going to be awesome!

[toadster]

Finally getting back on the car... time to get fuel lines installed!

I drilled and tapped 5 of 6 holes, last one in the engine bay will depend on FPR placement

To get a measurement of how long of a run, I used some simple cord from home depot ~$4 on sale and trimmed/burnt the ends to keep from unravelling, taped from the filter to the engine bay
139547 139548 139549
139550 139551 139552 139553

I drilled out and set my Earl's dual line mounts, and got to the Fragola AN6 straight fittings...
In order to mount the fittings, I had to get longer socket-head 1/4-20 screws - they fit perfectly into the frame!

I also got the Fragola Hose Pressure Kit to test for air leaks, and I think both ends need re-doing...
Yes, I need to get new olives since these are a 1 time use thing...


https://youtu.be/jN-yOVF-qEk

Earl's 1/2" Hose & Tubing Separator Black https://amzn.to/3rfkQ04 (https://www.youtube.com/redirect?v=jN-yOVF-qEk&event=video_description&redir_token=QUFFLUhqbkxiSDA3dGplVXZfT3pBcElnT2NZem hFaWdRZ3xBQ3Jtc0ttMnVWcUxaQ2otUHRGM0l6V0dGbi1KME5F dUhsVU43Qjc5UUxsem1WcUpsQUlYaU55NzI3MmtBTW1CdjlZQ2 5fN2ZMRjA5SzVnajZWUHNYZzhKN2NObmItYmR1MlhNalF1U1Zt bHBiOEk1SWZUazJRdw%3D%3D&q=https%3A%2F%2Famzn.to%2F3rfkQ04)
Earl's Performance AN to Straight Cut O-Ring Fittings AT949006ERL https://amzn.to/3p73SPz (https://www.youtube.com/redirect?v=jN-yOVF-qEk&event=video_description&redir_token=QUFFLUhqbW5Vc3Rua2Rya2t3c0xMWXJ0OE44Qm 00UlFYUXxBQ3Jtc0tuZXlrNjFlOGs0VmRzaEI4bEJDOVBkSzhM WG5JUmF1Rm5CZzhEQTlUWU5LQ0NibHhScC03OHpsLTFybHVpc1 RFeEhfUWlUYXRhVGo4NF9NZUdRMVI0cWhETEJQb1RybzB3OVpa OW93elpfMW9tTlQwNA%3D%3D&q=https%3A%2F%2Famzn.to%2F3p73SPz)
1/4-20 x 7/8" Socket Head Cap Screws, Allen Socket Drive, Stainless Steel 18-8, Full Thread, Bright Finish, Machine Thread https://amzn.to/34taK24 (https://www.youtube.com/redirect?v=jN-yOVF-qEk&event=video_description&redir_token=QUFFLUhqbE5tTDRsTk14aWc4TVlJNmFIa3dyRk pBUEE3QXxBQ3Jtc0ttLUczT0pmbU5NLV9xNld5QVVndG9SWWVX cFJVSmdzajVlSk9BMkJyZGZEVG1CRmlBbzkxRUxEa19vTloyMm FQblhMaVRGbWJuZG91ZzdxS3BOdTJYbjhPUnNxcG5takFSOXdx WGRvbnlEWW1ndUpnVQ%3D%3D&q=https%3A%2F%2Famzn.to%2F34taK24)
Fragola FRG900666 Size (-6) Individual Hose Pressure Test Kit https://amzn.to/3atQOj9 (https://www.youtube.com/redirect?v=jN-yOVF-qEk&event=video_description&redir_token=QUFFLUhqbnpidEUzMjB2bklGdDdUV0VpTlN5SU plWWszQXxBQ3Jtc0tuczdWU19peFRPcEJuUzZQY1NGRl9LbGVF NUdkcl9TMUZWN3lyRlJQcUNNTFAxblFrNWRqY3otbU0xbHJOcz FZVGNLSHVKZXhFZk1ndVFtQWZaU2ZLbTZjNi02VlhvUWZjUW52 SzBQVFJLbjFSbGUtcw%3D%3D&q=https%3A%2F%2Famzn.to%2F3atQOj9)

[Fman]

Todd, I found when using these AN fittings you need to push the olive flush against the vice to bottom them out on the hose before tightening down and using lube on the threads is a big help aiding in tightening them down. I also trimmed a little off the steel braid back around the olive nut before tightening them. Have you tried to tighten those fittings a little more before pulling them apart? Sometimes they need just a little more to complete the seal.

[toadster]

Todd, I found when using these AN fittings you need to push the olive flush against the vice to bottom them out on the hose before tightening down and using lube on the threads is a big help aiding in tightening them down. I also trimmed a little off the steel braid back around the olive nut before tightening them. Have you tried to tighten those fittings a little more before pulling them apart? Sometimes they need just a little more to complete the seal.

yep, I've done a few extra turns on them - the Fragola fittings I purchased are the zinc covered steel ones, they tear up my aluminum AN wrench something fierce...
at this point the joints are binding a bit so I can redo them - the olives are only $2/ea. and I left a little extra fuel line slack so it should still fit :)

[Hoooper]

Make sure you have any steel braid trimmed back so it doesnt get in the threads, but just enough. If you trim the braid back too far you wont get enough compression on the olive to the tube even with the fitting tightened all the way together.

[toadster]

Make sure you have any steel braid trimmed back so it doesnt get in the threads, but just enough. If you trim the braid back too far you wont get enough compression on the olive to the tube even with the fitting tightened all the way together.

Thanks Hooper! yes, I ordered a few new fittings - got them at a 45-degree angle for better aesthetics - plus they're aluminum Fragola so it should be a bit easier.. plus I'll use some lube to ensure smooth tightening :)

[toadster]

thanks to @Fman he was gracious enough to haul my body up to Ken Pike since he was getting his car back from fitting :)

last time on the buck, and in Ken's shop!
139759 139760

[toadster]

argh, more attempts - went through 4 ferrules/olives - got to the point that there was no audible leak, but failed the water test :(

this one was trimmed too far back, so I used a blade to shorten the PTFE
139971

ferrule is flat on the top of the PTFE liner
139972 139973 139974


https://youtu.be/TfmGWUiKsbo

any ideas what I may be doing wrong here?

[Greg K]

Most likely incompatible fitting and hose. The Fragola fitting is for ptfe hose. In the question and answer about e85 for that Kraken hose says it's not ptfe lined.
Get the Fragola hose https://pitstopusa.com/i-23901885-fragola-6000-series-p-t-f-e-lined-stainless-hose-6-10ft.html?ref=category:1206463

[toadster]

Most likely incompatible fitting and hose. The Fragola fitting is for ptfe hose. In the question and answer about e85 for that Kraken hose says it's not ptfe lined.
Get the Fragola hose https://pitstopusa.com/i-23901885-fragola-6000-series-p-t-f-e-lined-stainless-hose-6-10ft.html?ref=category:1206463

sadly it's the Fragola hose and ends!!...

[Greg K]

The link above in post #161 is what led me to a different hose that I thought you were using.

[toadster]

The link above in post #161 is what led me to a different hose that I thought you were using.

using FRA-602006 from summit

[toadster]

just to follow up, got some new olives and will give another go... one thing I've been thinking is that maybe I'm putting too much air pressure in the line to test?

also, found some instructions that shows that you push the PTFE lining .125" past the ferrule? First I've seen that - what is everyone's take on this setup?
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/braided-stainless-steel-lines/an--8-stainless-steel-hoses-p-1201.html

[Fman]

Todd, what pressure are you testing at? FWIW I did 65 lbs on my entire system and it held pressure. One thing to consider you do not need to bottom out the fitting when tightening them down. There can be a gap in between the two fittings and still seal up properly. I am wondering if you are possibly over tightening the ferrule? Definitely do not need to go gorilla strength tight. I used the same line as you but did use aluminum fittings which really should not make a difference. Another tip is to push the ferrule into the side of the vice and bottom it out on the PTFE line before tightening it down. Lastly, make sure and put lube on the threads this really made a difference.

Hope this helps you out...

[Hoooper]

just to follow up, got some new olives and will give another go... one thing I've been thinking is that maybe I'm putting too much air pressure in the line to test?

also, found some instructions that shows that you push the PTFE lining .125" past the ferrule? First I've seen that - what is everyone's take on this setup?
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/braided-stainless-steel-lines/an--8-stainless-steel-hoses-p-1201.html

If you are using the fittings and olives it looks like you are using, you cant push the line all the way through the olive. There is a stop at the top of the olive that the line is meant to push against. If you have a ferrule type that is straight through on the inside then yeah the line should extend past the end of the ferrule.

For pressure testing, what are you testing to? It shouldnt be anywhere near the limit of these fittings and hoses either way, the assembled hoses are rated as high as 2,000 PSI. Mine held 100 PSI of fuel pressure no problem when testing

[toadster]

Got 3 of 4 sealed

need 1 more olive to seal up!!
140519

[Fman]

Got 3 of 4 sealed

need 1 more olive to seal up!!
140519

Awesome, what did you end up changing? Glad it is working out for you!

[toadster]

Finally got 3 of 4 PTFE ends air-tight

I’ve determined that I’ll ruin every aluminum fitting - so I’ll stick with the zinc covered steel


Awesome, what did you end up changing? Glad it is working out for you!

I went with some zinc/steel earl's fittings with the brass olive, they seem to be working better... every one of my aluminum fittings got stripped :mad:
been busy with work this week, need to finalize this and move along :)

[toadster]

ok - holy smokes - I'm still alive guys!

A few months has passed, and sadly I was kept away from the build...

so some updates:
the body was taken to Ken Pike
143705


I donated my body buck,
143706 143707

and the initial body prep is done!
143708

I have a LOT to do to get the car ready for fitment!

[toadster]

Tonight I was able to get the Russ Thompson turn signal mounted,
I just need a few longer screws to get the bushing collar to have enough threads that I feel comfortable with the setup, I chose not to cut away more metal than was needed.

pre-assembled the setup for fitment on the body, I found that it's a good idea to snug up the bushing between the 2 parts to align the holes a bit more, so I recommend a quick tighten and removal
183170 183171

Thanks to @Fman, Tony & Russ Thompson - I was able to figure out which way the plate fits onto the MKIV mount
143712 143716

drilling out took some time, but slow and steady and used some cutting oil to help keep the squeaks at bay! still cleaning up metal shavings!!
143715 143718

Installing the steering shaft took a lot more effort than expected but I mounted just up till the 2nd washer was hidden as the instructions say...
I'll get a few longer screws tomorrow as I wanted a bit more thread on the mount

143719

overall happy with the result - removed the signal stalk till later - no sense in accidentally breaking it!

edit: I believe my 2ndary shaft was damaged somehow and both ends are a bit mushroomed :(

[toadster]

well, my steering shaft issue aside... I think I somehow buckled both ends of the 2nd shaft so I'm contacting FFR to get a new primary and secondary shaft with the washers, etc... sigh...

back to the build, realized I had not put in the floor of the passenger side yet LOL whoops!

made an aluminum and silicone pizza today :)

143874

felt good to make a little progress today!

[toadster]

ok - got the fuel lines run tonight... I think all this time I just haven't been tightening down the union joints enough!! so basically threw away $100 of AN fittings and olives.. oh well, live and learn!

Here are the fuel lines from tank to engine bay...

from the tank
143936

down the passenger backside
143937

under the passenger tube - they'll straighten out once the fittings are set in the engine bay
143938

loose in the engine bay until I finalize the insulation and determine the pressure regulator location
143939

here are the screws I used to go through the mounts and into the chassis
1/4-20 x 1" Socket Head Cap Screws, Allen Socket Drive, Stainless Steel 18-8 (304) (https://amzn.to/3eeRr29)

-6AN Hose Separator Clamp - Fuel line Mounting Clamps, Aluminum Hose Fitting Adapter (https://amzn.to/2Ob6Fun)



full details on my fuel setup
https://cobradreams.com/2020/07/17/ordered-my-flex-fuel-line/ (https://cobradreams.com/2020/07/17/ordered-my-flex-fuel-line/)

[toadster]

more odds and ends work today...

after some struggling to mount the reservoirs next to the vacuum brake booster, I finally decided to mount the reservoirs on the firewall due to so many conflicts with the booster area

144364 144365 144366
I'll figure out some type of cover for the Jamar etched logo - not a priority right now....
This setup should have enough room with a coyote engine and it will facilitate a really short hop to the clutch master, and will have to feed the brake booster through the side of the driver box

next was to setup the driver footbox, I thought I had lost the panels but found them and assembled with clecos - not ready for final fit just yet - but it's darn close
144367 144368

next was to use some extra aluminum panel to fill in the passenger side floor since I'm not using the handbrake

144369 144370 144371

lastly, I started to assemble the mesh screen to cover the radiator, sadly my brain was thinking in 2D and I only got enough aluminum 1/2 to do one side, so tomorrow I'll finish up once I make yet another trip to Home Depot :)

144372 144374

[Fman]

Nice work on the Jamar, looking good!

[toadster]

finally got the radiator cover installed today - got the idea from Eddie (vSpeeds) and Travis (Fman)
I think the mod adds a nice look, should protect the radiator, and only about $50 and a few hours of drilling, snipping, aligning, riveting, innovating ;)

ordered the 24x36 sheet from Pegasus Auto
144403
I had to trim it down to fit the front of the radiator, I ended up at 22.5" W and 20" H it's a bit long on the bottom, could have cinched it up another 1/2 inch, 19.5 H would place the lower bar just in the middle of the radiator tab

I don't have a drill press, so all this was done by hand, gets tricky when aligning two bar together to not have the bottom one walk away on you
I used a cleco to initially hold the bars together, then used 2 zip-ties to lock in the x,y,z axis which worked out pretty well IMHO

144405 144406

getting everything aligned, clecos help a LOT here
I left the mesh a little wide, maybe 1 square to ensure I was getting enough mesh in the bars
To clean it up, it was easy enough once held together to pull a wide vertical strand down the outer edge and dremel off the horizonal matrix on the outside
144407

The top spring clips worked great to hold the upper mesh, but the bottom needed some support, I found a few ABS spacers in my toolbox and some stainless bolts, lock washers and nuts
one at each lower corner, just drilled out the rivet and it aligned perfectly with the lower radiator tab... took a pic, maybe hard to see
this ensures the shield is solidly mounted and won't move/damage the radiator itself
144408

here's my before and after pics - I think it turned out great!
144409 144410

[JB in NOVA]

Nice! I'm adding that to my to-do list.

[toadster]

slowly chipping away at the brake/clutch reservoir plumbing...
the 3/8" tubing I got from Whitby was about 2-5" too short for my setup, so I had to shop around to find some brake ready hose
I also took the time to swap out my 1/8" NPT for the clutch line to a 1/4" barb, the 3/8" barb was too big and this fits up better.

before running the reservoir lines, I've been on the hunt for some grommets that will keep the lines intact, no cuts and keep the engine bay heat from creeping into the footbox.
I found the RPC 1" x 1.25" ones fit one of the footbox holes perfectly given the extra depth with the steel plate - but the one closest to the clutch needs a 1.3-1.5" OD grommet - need to keep hunting!

144840 144842

for the inner wall I found a collection of grommets from Harbor Freight that work perfectly for the thinner aluminum sheet metal, but first had to make some holes
I quickly realized that the top of the inner footbox was not 'level' so I had to do some quick measurements

Step drill bits are probably one of the best inventions ever! 7/8" center hole, and 1" on both side holes
144847 144843 144844

You may notice that it's "BIG small BIG" hole placement - I went off the tightness of the NTP on the reservoir and alternated the outputs so they can route around each other.

144845 144846

overall pleased with how it turned out, still need one more grommet to run to the brake booster, tomorrow is another day!

on a side note, I talked with Mike Forte this week and updated my first post with the order sheet - waiting for the tax man update, then will pull the trigger on the Coyote and TKX :)

[toadster]

reservoirs fully connected today to the vacuum booster, I'll figure out some type of foam to fill the gaps around the two 3/8"s hoses
144902


I was also able to fully mount the driver's floor
144900 144901

the driver's inside panel needed more fitment so I can add the ThermoTec on the inside
144903

Since I was on a roll, I decided to align the whole top part of the box and prep the hatch... just a few clecos for now, but will add nutserts to ease access
144904 144905

I think next steps are to install the passenger side floor, and get on my brake lines already!

[toadster]

last night worked on fitting and setting the passenger floor pan
I had to remove the handbrake mount on the chassis since I'm going with the Wilwood EPB, quick work with a sawzall, cleaned up with a dremel, and painted the bare spots
145157

then it was fit, drill, clean, verify the holes, silicone, and rivet into place!
145158 145159 145160

I told my wife she could officially sit in my car last night, but she passed until there's a seat!

[bldr.rob]

Really coming together! Love the frame color. One thing I noticed, and you may have already accounted for but with the reservoirs mounted on the firewall it may be challenging to check the levels and/or fill them once the body is on. Just a thought. ....

[toadster]

Really coming together! Love the frame color. One thing I noticed, and you may have already accounted for but with the reservoirs mounted on the firewall it may be challenging to check the levels and/or fill them once the body is on. Just a thought. ....

Thanks! it's going slow, but progress is progress :)

yes the reservoirs will be tough to check, unfortunately options are limited though given the vacuum booster - i spun on that placement for way too long and just bit the bullet and will learn to live with it
in hindsight, would have done the hydroboost to save space in that area... not that I couldn't change it now but I'm pretty deep into that segment already...

[jiriza84641]

Looking Good, Keep it up!

[toadster]

closed up the gas tank mount that won't be used, and mapping out the drop trunk ideas...

145663 145664 145665

determining whether I flush cut against the rails and drop the box in from top, or bend tabs down from the trunk and rivet the floor of the drop trunk to the drop tabs?

145666

also drilled out the fuel sender access port

145667

[JB in NOVA]

Regarding your drop-trunk ideas, I was thrown for a loop until I remembered that you installed a non-standard gas tank (like, why is the fuel sender on the other side???). As a newbie, I've got nothing else to add, other than your build is looking great. Good luck with your custom drop-trunk!

[toadster]

worked on setting up my ABS controller, I've been so back and forth on this setup - but I figured I have all the parts so I darn well should set it up!

I'm drafting off @johngeorge setup with the GT500 ABS module http://www.johngeorgeracing.com/wordpress/2015/12/
I don't know johngeorge but everyone who DOES know him says he's a legit dude with racing cred :)

trusting blindly :)

I have the Mustang HCU with GT500 module, not the FR500S module - that's for slicks, the GT500 module is for road tires - so perfect!
Believe it or not, I got the whole setup for about $160 - but now the fun part - where do you mount an ABS module on an FFR?

now, when you get the HCU and bracket from a Mustang - it isn't designed to fit a custom car like the FFR
145723
so I had to do some measurements and figure out how the heck this will mount on the MKIV - perfect spot next to the Breeze battery box
145724 a local pizza box will do for the mockup for a sheetmetal box :)

with the HCU mounted on top, I'd need a way to mount the bottom of the HCU to the bracket so 4 x M5 rivnuts will be used, but first I had to trim the bracket to get it to 'fit' the space
145725 145726

this gave me the basic shape and I smoothed the edges on the grinding wheel to knock off the edges, and also used a brushed wheel to strip a lot of the paint and prep for some POR-15
145727 145728 145729

tonight I remembered why POR-15 is such a fickle product, the mini can that I had was sealed up REALLY tight since I had previously used it on the IRS pumpkin - as I was tearing up the lid the whole thing exploded, ruining my garage computer mouse, and blackening my hands like midnight... UGH! oh well, some dawn soap, and brillo pads (and a new mouse tomorrow) and back to work!

Tomorrow I will set the rivnuts and make my super excellent sheetmetal box with my harbor freight metal brake LOL

[egchewy79]

I just had a similar experience w/ POR this weekend. Not the exploding can part, but the stained hands. If you buy another can, instead of opening up the lid, drill 2 small holes through the lid opposite of each other. you pour what you need out into a cup and reseal the holes with small screws. you'll just need to unscrew the screws when you want to use it again. think of an old juice can or Hi-C can that you'd need to open with that triangular can opener.

[toadster]

I just had a similar experience w/ POR this weekend. Not the exploding can part, but the stained hands. If you buy another can, instead of opening up the lid, drill 2 small holes through the lid opposite of each other. you pour what you need out into a cup and reseal the holes with small screws. you'll just need to unscrew the screws when you want to use it again. think of an old juice can or Hi-C can that you'd need to open with that triangular can opener.

haha - yes, that went through my head, about 2 seconds after the accident... it's very odd how your skin gets warm almost instantly when POR hits it...
call it poor prep on my behalf, I thought I could open it without gloves on... lesson learned!!

[toadster]

built my mounting box, note - my name is not Mark Breeze, quality does not come close to his battery box - but then again, it's just a mount for my ABS HCU, so it will be tucked down by the battery box

Used my pizza box mockup to scribe the sheet metal, some extra parts from the anniv build came with un-powdercoated stuff so I'm recycling :)
145793

Since I have the cheapo Harbor Freight brake, I can't easily do keyed width bends, so I used my vice to do the initial bend - and cinched the rest with a hammer and square corner - not pretty -but functional
145794

This gave me the shelf to mount the HCU, so I drilled/matched the holes
I left the HCU main bushing and bolt to sustain the mount as well as the bottom pins so it should be pretty secure with rivnuts on the plate
145795

I went to paint, it was dark outside and after my initial spray I realized that someone at the store had swapped color lids :mad:
so I thought I was getting hammered black paint, and it ended up being a gray/tan hammertone... I'll paint over with some black tomorrow...
extra rivet holes are pre-drilled so I can place in the car and drill into the 4" tubes and a couple rivets into the Breeze battery box as well - overall about 8 rivets to hold this in place

145796

[Hacksaw84]

I basically mounted mine in the same place but used another Breeze battery box. Depending on how you mount it, you have to watch out for how far it sits down into the hole so you can still get the harness plugged in because of the 4" tube. I ended up having standoffs on the bottom of the ABS bracket. I also didn't like the way it felt by only sitting in the post/rubber fittings from the bottom and the bolt on the one side. So I bolted it on both sides, from that ear on the bracket and then through the front of the Breeze battery box with a think rubber washer between the two.

145960 145961 145962

[toadster]

I basically mounted mine in the same place but used another Breeze battery box. Depending on how you mount it, you have to watch out for how far it sits down into the hole so you can still get the harness plugged in because of the 4" tube. I ended up having standoffs on the bottom of the ABS bracket. I also didn't like the way it felt by only sitting in the post/rubber fittings from the bottom and the bolt on the one side. So I bolted it on both sides, from that ear on the bracket and then through the front of the Breeze battery box with a think rubber washer between the two.

145960 145961 145962

awesome - yep, I'm inverting my 'bucket' so the ABS HCU will sit on top (not down in) of the box

lookin good!!!

[toadster]

it's taken me a few days to finally get this setup, but the ABS HCU is mounted and I have a battery in the car!

my nutsert method didn't work out, I just couldn't get them to bind over 8mm, so I went with some long 3/16" rivets and it worked great!

146017 146018 146019 146020

[Fman]

Looking good Todd, that ABS is going to be a sweet setup.

[johnpinetree]

Hey Todd, great info. Quick question (John George's thread on ABS has some dead pics): For the GT500 ABS you can use the tone ring that's already mounted on the SN95 hubs (but maybe with some different sensors) and then use .... whatever magic magnets comes on the CV axles in the back with the sensor you called out? Or is there a seperate tone ring you need to separately mount to those hubs?

Thanks!

Juan

[toadster]

Hey Todd, great info. Quick question (John George's thread on ABS has some dead pics): For the GT500 ABS you can use the tone ring that's already mounted on the SN95 hubs (but maybe with some different sensors) and then use .... whatever magic magnets comes on the CV axles in the back with the sensor you called out? Or is there a seperate tone ring you need to separately mount to those hubs?

Thanks!

Juan

Hey Juan - I have my parts list on my site https://cobradreams.com/2020/04/12/abs-planning/ (https://cobradreams.com/2020/04/12/abs-planning/)
I'm pretty sure I have all the pics from johngeorge's site as well

As far as sensors I went with modified Russ Thompson brackets with Motocraft BRAB-290 (https://amzn.to/3tayt1p) for the SN95 hubs,
and the rear IRS I believe will use sensors that will work with the built in IRS hub Motorcraft BRAB-406 (https://amzn.to/2RhL4S7)

today I was pretty stoked to actually get some brake lines setup on the car!!

The Eastwood Brake Flaring tool (https://amzn.to/3uA4Ab0) is amazingly simple once you figure out the steps, I'm using Ni-Copp for brake lines and it's super flexible!

146088
one tip, and I swore I wouldn't screw it up - but use a bit of tape to keep you flare nut at the end of the line,
this way when you bend your lines you don't accidentally trap the nut behind a bend... yep, did it already! LOL
146089

I took Edwardb's advice and used the Rigid 3/6" tubing bender (https://amzn.to/2QbItbY) - it works fantastically!
146090 146091

with ABS, I have to run 2 feeds to the HCU, then spider out from there to each wheel... got the two feed lines setup today
146092 146093

[johnpinetree]

Brilliant! Yeah, I have poked around your blog some - didn't realize those were the same pics, that's great. One thing that's not super obvious to me is how the sensors get mounted up for the rear hubs. Also, what motivated the copper lines? Apart from having to flare umpteen connectors and saving yourself carpet tunnel?

[toadster]

Brilliant! Yeah, I have poked around your blog some - didn't realize those were the same pics, that's great. One thing that's not super obvious to me is how the sensors get mounted up for the rear hubs. Also, what motivated the copper lines? Apart from having to flare umpteen connectors and saving yourself carpal tunnel?

the sensors drop into the hub from the top and secure with a screw see my pics here: https://cobradreams.com/2020/07/10/cleaning-up-some-odds-and-ends/

the NiCopp lines are recommended by many folks, they're much softer and easier to form - you can get a 25ft coil for about $20-25
25 Feet of 3/16 Inch (4.75 mm) Copper Nickel Brake Line (https://amzn.to/3d9uts8)


I still have vspeeds (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/member.php?24199-Vspeeds) tubing straightener! Don't worry Eddie - I got you!

[toadster]

my son stopped by tonight, it's been a while since he's been busy - but always worth the time spent!
he had grand dreams of finishing all 4 of the ABS lines tonight in 2 hours, but he realized (like I already have) that brake lines are not easy for the OCD folk :)

here's our work over 2 hours...
146387

LOL yes, the driver's side brake line which is the shortest run of them all, about 34 in., 9 bends and 2 perfectly crimped ends (not forgetting the nuts!)
it was a one-and-done moment, we didn't falter - but we really shouldn't work in this field as it would be a real pity for the garage paying us for this slow of work LOL

we did some re-configuring of the lines from the HCU - it can be quite a mess given there are 6 lines (2 inputs, 4 outputs)

from this angle it's not the prettiest layout, but no lines are touching, rubbing, and they all have clearance where they need it!
146388

yesterday I did run the passenger side line - I added some gravel guard since it was a pretty straight run and may get some rocks from inside the wheel well
146389

next are the 2 long runs to the rear... should be a challenge for sure, our goal is to do ZERO unions but that's a lofty goal... :)

also, first hole in the carbon fiber dash (eek!)
146390

still determining the layout, but going for comp style

[johnpinetree]

Looking pretty slick! The OCD comment is hilarious. I wonder if you took a straw poll of who fits into that category from this forum where you'd land...

[toadster]

Looking pretty slick! The OCD comment is hilarious. I wonder if you took a straw poll of who fits into that category from this forum where you'd land...

Thanks! oh I'm sure there are PLENTY who fit that category :)

[johnpinetree]

Hey, so still in the rabbit hole. After doing some digging it looks like you were also looking into traction control? Did you ever dig up any more info or call any experts to see what it would take with this system?

[toadster]

Hey, so still in the rabbit hole. After doing some digging it looks like you were also looking into traction control? Did you ever dig up any more info or call any experts to see what it would take with this system?

I've been looking at this setup, but at the time he didn't have any way to interface with the Ford Perf ECU https://moretraction.com/
It's something that can be done later, not cheap - but cheaper than going sideways and crashing :)

[johnpinetree]

I'm going to be owing you a number of beers my friend, for doing all this heavy lifting. Is that where Ford Perf pointed you, or did you find that on your own? Worried about aftermarket and the VVT... Also, it seems like if you've got traction control.... launch control can't be that far off?

[toadster]

I'm going to be owing you a number of beers my friend, for doing all this heavy lifting. Is that where Ford Perf pointed you, or did you find that on your own? Worried about aftermarket and the VVT... Also, it seems like if you've got traction control.... launch control can't be that far off?

ah its not me, it's this whole forum! I found the TCU stuff on my own, they're very popular with the aftermarket crowd if you want to spend the $$.
Just need more time to investigate to see if it will (or can) work with the Coyote ECU

[toadster]

finally got the rear runs done for the ABS, 2 sections for each - didn't turn out too bad :)

lots of folks ask about the NiCopp tubing - here's a link to the stuff I used from The Stop Shop https://amzn.to/32JnvUM


my magical way of measuring... I lay out some $4.99 home depot rope along the run and bends, then measure the distance - it works VERY well to determine the length of brake line that I need to cut. Perfect every time!
146726

the farthest run... rear passenger, this was the most difficult one to be honest
146727

driver side was super short - I used some leftover tubing from a prior mistake
146728

long run from passenger side, I used 3/8" gravel guard to protect the line - it's a bit large, but wanted to use it since I had it on the shelf

146729 146730 turned out pretty well - gotta keep it really high on the 4" tube since a 2nd run has to happen

2nd run just under the first - making sure to keep clear of the 4" tube bottom
146731 146732

final setup at the HCU
146733

woo! honestly, it's sad, now I'm done with brake lines... no wonder guys do multiple builds!!!
still have to test the system, but will have to wait for the ECU as it has to bleed the ABS system through the OBD port

Here's the tool that I'll get to do the ABS bleed: Autel MaxiAP AP200C Wireless OBDII Scan Tool (https://amzn.to/3nnSbEM)

[toadster]

a few updates today... first, I got to run into about 10 local Cobra guys at Cars & Coffee, I can't believe I didn't take any pics!!! Was great to see everyone! and some new cars were out too!

After reading a different thread about the Whitby power brake setup, I looked at my setup and wondered if my inlets to the master cylinder would leak air and just to seal things up I ordered the Billet Aluminum Master Cylinder Nipples from Lodestone Billetworks (http://www.lsbilletworks.com/)
such simple parts, but you need the right tools to build these... I bet guys with CNC or lathe could do these quickly, but for $30 I can't buy a CNC machine (haha!)

146887

I removed my plastic inlet barbs and had to figure out how to seat these suckers! They're very VERY tight so I know there won't be any leaking!
I couldn't just push them into the rubber grommets, so I pulled the rubber and mounted on the nipple - STILL couldn't get it on - so I grabbed a clamp and slowly popped them into place
146888 146889 146890

I used these 90-degree brass fittings from Amazon with 1/8" NPT to 3/8" hose barb connection
Brass Hose Barb Fitting, 90 Degree Male Elbow, 3/8" Hose ID x 1/8" NPT Male, 2pcs (https://amzn.to/3xowDw8)

Next up was to seal the path for the 3/8" hoses into the firewall. I found this Seals-It SGS35BL Split Grommet Seal (https://amzn.to/3aERFgt) that allows a specialized cut to keep it closer than an open-hole grommet
146891 146892
and the final result, I can fidget with the hole and hoses a bit to seal it up now versus before when it was about 2" of open air
146893

hopefully I'm done with brake stuff for a bit, will need to start the bleed process and check all the fittings/unions

[johnpinetree]

Of course there is a 100 tool to bleed the abs. Sheesh. Good luck with the bleed and testing... sending good luck your way.

[toadster]

last night I started unpacking the electrical loom, need to figure out if I have another mount for the fuse panel as the one the box doesn't fit...

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/A9e97R0cFEGQAeTNlxh_Bqc1Kicp8VIaUJal6xXXKgkJTClsX_ BwqXg2S6C4qjk7Ji0EfXQLP8H7ztsjwsucl7ue0PfUskQdHrTE tUlLCLcwzSuC1kbvGVzoYEcfFuohEHCMjTmpvIYQJE9EHL4PlJ e6TxMMD23DaGaMuUv-K9YWrcPW_NpRS_GxfGuoPql9X6q2o7y0--4DE_GAIh8E0-DSeeYipDj06EiUNHWNJOWhoHqkCJ8TW0I0Rv0E-vwaE3DBD4jTu7ZsCxaWaWdM1qdkasA4HF-JXTIp0ZvmwvbTu7SLtWiuF68QVNRX4QjemY1Suel-id0ercqI245oSVBQPkGFfLRVrwQuFHM4x-SYBkx6BZvs_lful3CiqyhH2JYJhyZb6o_gzCHOSqik_UMrZFv0 owAvnwLSdbFTNj3TqVjIY8blyPjL4plKlhP4bP4XuhbY8TuqwV BqmMtoSwxZNS1A0uuBTxSa2vsZpdBZp_VB7r8htq26Bl4fEDhX M5C4Fu8zb3d8SpV4rO82R5-fENmr3d6vMp3lqSsTSvsSp-wDoyendl1r6jxLhRFKLxw7Sux3eah_M62w89bbHUUTsLNMA5_2 6J_brG4Z0O4pWcWR4FcTc3XGEPwgpZ09csrih7oOr0I8fHy1D7 XzjOPR2gvG0ZsCEiCGKmd17C2KVq5g5v8wwT5UAbuXnlcvIZOr 1Sl4zv9mVZSHav0brz-8=w711-h947-no?authuser=0

the relay on the left side is too low to fit the space
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Bd8Dr1Jj4J80_CFndP7vthmDmGpxui2i90VLAq2_vSAR43RpgX NtCiKUjfdZLG2rofARaG4lcZ1gbH8FO_yls8JYCS-Cuh_YG93IApLYkFIHAqEfpODi8_srISTENI1M0abbthA7uGj7u tVlf_eKPykxyiUC1svUejCh8zZ1mGkgtiKO2B8XpJlP0M-BAiYIIghnkwS999pKUzA2TIYb8VEMYPd8UA5tLZARJRIZa-X1IAydU18iKM2eqtpu6vst7CXFqYz4z4eT0nKOzKN44CZ7iapZ _1V9OT1kC7vflCL94gMWNJv4YwLxOe7E3t7Pnucdqw6p5-ItcOc44VAaaP8sRAlp4C-jG7qtYs_rfY9Kz191ega_tZEvWLGc5JXSKQgIQfK4HMVYSLrjF DxafTgaRmoG6FgJ-ZiJlSGglnDUXcygWfRktyS8yUa0v-Yu8AzvIrPvQNz29AwQXu4W04TgYzrWPnLFAptd7MN3hSrgxipc QhXWOotIU1jWAXw4_AwkXuzog8wVh31a8NJeQVvQqTk5KjCgsg c4MZDhtEziLBzqY9a7f2yILGui57QUf5StTGl0l4uJerDB7PI4 ciWLEPBvWGm5FQD8nOMrXg6jDPvlahalSN1zXchP7_da0wg08Y 7OFnJaICAxsqKyIpSZwE3NLdjV8_Mo2qJoH2V0zwCGGjHAfxDN 5PVjZsAoLbbJafWNWOP_oHCfrnUcGaTy=w1539-h947-no?authuser=0

also started drilling out the driver floor panel last night, fingers crossed - I haven't broken a drill bit in weeks!!! :)

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/j85WEr8w3-4r8M0ccSsMxs2g6zTXLz_aB2-gOOTvFbxQhK6NTZoE_-nnJcPUZgj8jMSj8etagNSzpz7qtDXKqlJ7vFPF7-WJve-4PY5J6hzghjBvXQF4Sl6-y5YgSOayfhIN8QOyOwFc1Ku00JyISqW2Fo7ER06wzJfx5N-OL08YawvAfNDEmRr3dbrPHjm_YSX0Sf1xoaqN0yB14HuJiFsAd pgtKn-576_l8x8VKerwFgbN46J8t2xPCV3gSS-5xNCMrwIrcWN3viUIzKTuxL2B0KR45LPB0s8_G5s24cqy4wb5O Yk2lWJO1Iy3zq83APojKz9fvXoamcdIX14FvCHlBroUSdmOhRR UtVdS-oCbKV9I1MCejxsEKSnx8eFAbeseeX78GW1IMYrLYJE3T8nAXXg JfaUQWf99-VWirJ1akdZGVfBDJrKje_B17kd806pFnquQOSoA8gvNPdksLBX 2Bz8ddZELa4NfAmdOTlvjL0kQHusn7-TiJkWTq0R_WMkPb00DSDUvOJVsJ3sceqnmXM6QqgTX3UeD99yk JerybLMQ2ksMxTYqnnKKGgZhKytIKvm_Z-WD4uceHSLr_X5cdpavw1O5cLy6hPkaFkx6yOjuvTOnC0OTR7Ed EAhzmjUIWSqc3Kqi8TquwYhjwqtOX1gz2MWclRTuJ5u2VvpPfE i81TL9LZhr9v3e58g5zym_cvZaBs9n_QC5-ct7qAdU=w1263-h947-no?authuser=0

If I haven't said it before, I'll say it again - always have a vacuum nearby - those metal shavings get everywhere!

I also ordered a measurement tool for the power brake booster, not in any directions from Whitby but the forum suggests this for a good pedal feel. Oh the things we learn everyday!

Power Brake Booster Pin Adjustment Tool (https://amzn.to/3xxMsk7)

and a quick video on how it works!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qc6MgNNMQts

[Blitzboy54]

There is a screw holding the inertia switch relay to the rest of the panel. Remove it and move the relay to the spot it belongs. Everything will fit nice and snug after that


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145944&d=1617930387

[toadster]

There is a screw holding the inertia switch relay to the rest of the panel. Remove it and move the relay to the spot it belongs. Everything will fit nice and snug after that


thanks! I noticed that this morning when I took the photo :)

had to find a shorter screw, otherwise it would have pierced the fuel pump fuse

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/a4mbiTOeEBYNR3qlcu8boFrL4ZkBYbHP9Wfsirdmcs7IWOVqgj BKEAt00TvC6ohseu30djug-jHDbdXj9xHyh3jvZcKTSek-kaWFurQ9DZldVZYwmk0nAGP0OQOVZlIvyBqpsbXLXPlDMp4C4u SuuWYuQDxmPpzLOZJeVws7lDsGLsaEVxW0gDI4WcXPExyjy5id _LfmQgC7yvJ-M9Wz1jAZorzTu132VA9DXshhEPGoYIzGKt9HiwtzbBTYifigVu LypUq28cEGjOo04rqyVVGTbcvLHqO_24pD7MxPu5wl0MfXlIvU kHxSGX_iLYhMwhas9HqQnMBAXF1ujopak5UV-FbHGy31-80lV7E3iHp2ZlFG-fTjQpEZPGCuNiYS9YO-H0bLY_Jm2qhYK88GCNqpZu2KnqmWZyFG0-9t6GhkwH5JYHSqCirqcIvR2mVmsk4q6BRgml6DemhU2IIIux_R 9WYXqs-AMeL757KATn6K3_uugFT105wDZi0DMrrpj4-kLm3igX2cAgo41yAnde3xwfcXTe1zwlYAJvMFPYlPrpT-1etN3yWVm1hC8M2bdqTCha8VX4YXqeU6ONRcUg4vduPXZ6eiWc D1Plu93rS38CzkjKXiXYwIZNkgJIEgP09EqkwjgjGczJgAx9hV-k09FGIYgak4YBtESF0GYambpe25hBD3yLY4XKJD6VyhrSGMphb cp_gZjg6UX-cZnD2n=w1547-h947-no?authuser=0

[Blitzboy54]

I think I used one of the machine screw that were holding the aluminum panels.

[JB in NOVA]

last night I started unpacking the electrical loom, need to figure out if I have another mount for the fuse panel as the one the box doesn't fit...

Toadster, in my kit there were two fuse panel mounts -- one in the FFR kit, and another in the Ron Francis box. I used the FFR panel but had to trim a bit to make it fit. After I did that (story of my life), I noticed the Ron Francis mount probably would have fit without modification. Either way, cutting the mount is pretty straightforward. I used my Dremel with a cutting wheel, took 5 minutes. BTW, your build is looking great!

[toadster]

so today my brake booster rod adjustment tool arrived, who knew this existed? (n00b alert!)

I setup my Whitby brake booster like the directions stated, I only used one spacer - well here's the result!

you use this tool to first measure the depth of the master cylinder, then you measure the pushrod depth... well with no spacers it was WAY too long, here's with 1 spacer (like I had initially installed)
the pushrod is still too long as the gauge goes past the rod, there's supposed to be .02" clearance...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hDgLDf2Rlw6YGRkiHOR_Z0_F1ggL-PNki90vKlXjYoxO98Zh_pSHv8wOqdBVsvXe34S4n4K1BvhrFPh EckklEljY8dJxMMamNk8_Ixhxd_9HscphPYl2lupk8EvGu3YsM WjAlqPxnGNS2cpJyrd49eO3FgVRLpd7OYjpZOiETgBS94cwwLP 4C_Qhb_b90vzGk0PLPlHicaFO2JIkBvgdnhCSOC147cbIECkMT bEjs8mRmcXuQ7mAsgexXrKJzPZ67xlzgboUveqrCXVTb7_dtGz vl0drFwJNBnejrMjD-DoC_ac3kKbbKqMsaHlylECzPndyNlqRYLzkYBnzDbqFsi7Hpvj BnZyD0PhEMvyzHJf0k5-S5hU1rQIlrrvWpqtcpZPQl8SoE807Pp9K17fWrEdNX24tY0r0L iHQ4uVkJWJNQSf4BSYnkQW9elYiCaqWWjasX7cucCexTIvFbwE C-kBRVVaskidlZ41mAqQSzyqt7yrPLFZGzBx0XQraPp7Z-QMApobKyteHweuXeyokYL4KUFyGQA4DrA4LsgC47Y6htDRCxQ6 avXRhAuA8udUYVHNPA7zXYhmLTeO5V-RXyDjC4LMWoEHsptfy2qdz8UcVlLkBnCg1-iGrs5AYQdm0qK7w1nXmSWO2he4cQbjYgqpDa59i-k4rK4M9wbmphKicbFEmVNHcLyuDxGk_7FGhHX9-9lOUwrZ42GQbr6FHPmcW=w1263-h947-no?authuser=0

so I added another spacer and it's perfect! you can't tell in the pic, but it's ever so slightly gapped from the rod
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kgNf6nxcBX_J5UwnjR32wDwT7rfAfMOAKsUB79Sn8_SsPiYP_c Vj7cFuuuFwj01kL11I3EzHB6xK9YyDk3-m3an7XVfFra77ucZ79baYrQ2Ca7VyrJqxOLlc-25Ax83ZEeCXxXXe3gOT2ZxnzuU4bJaFbN2O-TRMsbhA-aj5hOiJ7mmt49L0Jor8hiDJUbfMVvHjeq7bmOKBYFDBnbTUiPw ntyfyvgSHto4r4iWuRxyDMN5P_KgDSMa0mopOPh5o1Wh9Mv-V91Dgr_ySXz4_4KoBPBEKJ7ppSSFa1foappfRz4w0nzlWHE3on OWfrUHY3Vdxpw05gjkLZ1B097P5e4s7HkrFFpcQtaYyVKOSzJo LrlHDTcirdvzggBHm-fiSohdMPrmb-OP1hLvmeBv1bOKQH3O2ApDM7NGSst3JRwhuNYusH6STkXARBew 4L4kWyB20slWaj0Q4DkBy2MLEFBqd6WKmF-yk97Ww-UE9SBI4CCIowY9pKuyJA-Rqs8VwFKXhLdzggg3cQ8p9C5ItGDzz4Visw1i5tk8UOjRsKkqr o5LVZ3tzTc_IPmv5EfMBWp6h1bJt4EB3f_5AtZWVLNpJY31uEX-Y1Tie96WSIHnqSdUmujp8xnPilCvQh-UngdPGmd8s9CBm2xg1JgehNUBp6m-w681taxaYxWIwuy8POkUsegQ9dgpd9mElNLJHU_2uP6YgKFd3w XbZGz4tpXgL=w1263-h947-no?authuser=0

pedal still goes to the wall, but my speed-bleeder arrives tomorrow (I hope) and I can get the brake system bled and hopefully it will take care of the issue.

[toadster]

well, after a day or so of testing the brakes - still pretty spongey... then I realized the ABS unit uses bubble flare, NOT double flare... ugh, more rework!

the front lines I may just redo, but the rear lines being so long, I may just cut them closer to the ABS unit and do a union closer to the front...
like many say, you won't build a car, you'll build it 3 times before you're done :) LOL ouch!

[GoDadGo]

like many say, you won't build a car, you'll build it 3 times before you're done :) LOL ouch!

I found your statement to be very true because I've seen several cars that looked like they rolled off an assembly line while others seemed to be cobbled together.
I too felt like I built my Roadster 3-Times and every little back step tested my skills so just remember that you are building your dream.
Don't get discouraged because a finely crafted car is what you end up with once the dust settles and it has been completed.

> ABS on a Cobra?
> Who'd Have Wanted Something Like That?
> A Dude Near Sacramento Cali That We Call Toadster Who Is Building His Dream!

You've Got This!

[toadster]

ok - a little update (it's been a while!)

did some cleanup/re-org in the garage and got back into the build... my son and I pulled the 2 feed lines and 2 front lines off the HCU, and the master cylinder... wasn't too messy, used the vacuum bleeder to evacuate 90% of the fluid from the lines

Since the GT500 HCU has 2 1/4 feed lines, I ordered two 60" straight NiCopp lines, I just don't want to spend another $80 on a 1/4 tubing straightener for 2 lines
Waiting on those to arrive...
also had to swap out the outlets from the master cylinder to adapt to the 1/4 lines, I got ones that fit from AutoZone

our next step is to see if I can re-use the existing 3/16" lines buy cutting and re-flaring with the bubble/ISO flare into the HCU, if not, will have to re-bend new lines
the rear lines will be interesting since they're longer sections - if I pull them off the car, then I can probably re-use them

waiting on those lines and a 1/4 tubing bender to arrive - so I got to labelling some wiring :)
it's a bit OCD, but verify the wiring docs and simplify the build on the car

using this DYMO RhinoPRO 5200 Label Maker (https://amzn.to/3ysFSer)with shrink tubing - love it!

https://i.imgur.com/jxMzPbN.png?1 https://i.imgur.com/rNO3lvv.png?1


also, I ordered the Flex-a-lite Flex-Wave LoBoy Electric Fan (Puller), 16" fan (https://amzn.to/3yHF85B)
I figured it's good cooling insurance, and much easier to do now than when the body is on...
although it was still a PITA to remove the old fan...

had to disassemble the shroud, mounts and the front mesh - then remove the fan
then had to re-drill holes for new rivnuts because the spacing is a bit different - then re-assemble

essentially the same size fan, but the Flex-A-Lite pulls more CFM at the same amperage

kit fan left, Flex fan right
https://i.imgur.com/0llrX63.png?1

https://i.imgur.com/0XgtNSp.png?2 https://i.imgur.com/exSOnKx.png?1

hope to get the brakes DONE this week!

[johnpinetree]

Good luck on the brakes my friend! After investigating further I think the best way to do the traction control on something like this is with an aftermarket ECU like the AEM Infinity. Great, right? So like ideally you wouldn't even waste cash on the OEM ECU if you're going to upgrade anyway, right? Easier to justify??

Well, the problem is with the Gen 3 Coyote is that there's too many damn injectors. Yeah, too many injectors!!! Blasphemous. Anyhow, I'm trying to reach out to the AEM Infinity people this week and see if there's anything on the horizon... but I'm getting nervous. In my head I thought the perfect build would be a new Coyote with traction control... (enabling maybe even launch control...) but something might have to give...

Anyhow, if you've done any more digging on this and have thoughts I'd love to hear them.

[toadster]

LOL you guys are SO right when you say - I'll build the car 3x before I build it once!!!

FINALLY have the Whitby power brakes and GT500 HCU bled and good pedal pressure!!!

My son and I tore out all the lines and had to re-do the bubble flares for the ABS HCU

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qXzesCt0vvbncOCJbb3PInSLUVUuSsyC7m9OBXksN4kvqm0nNm r3eEHEo0JaDU0DvnlIpY96tot18I6DfFkCh_WBQbtfks-9q55rpCLaAuUM-dZRGXQefDyBgMOU-oUuDrh2gkX7FxjjNJCA6ly3r2-FwwY2mUcBCXBuNsjq9iKYcQhx6VUbfP6X6lGRCotHorPuGm1RN gjuaECNGjjIxBGtXXwfweqhdmrBQtQe12KMCmPzWoWSFEK3UcV vz64bqWoLN3DzS0k8pOZb5xKbVnh95nV6tY_q2SCqpFbwVHjnP zZpAg8Y49r_GnSoiubo4G-IYUw6HyvBAvb5NqrpFxzhKwg3OXIVWGcz6fqgdZMCJtcPggQJJ BFznyd9ucTI27sEiXHWMrQGyrkaBwOQWqXyvA9g4uVVZPmYjQa W2bUwycQT97Uj2iUxp8ixt0D5itMMUgzW38BYeVSCM6bUNHbsV NVSS18pymtCgZ9NW777DHchIPPBOX5a28Pb_RDy4zsVIhqTZA9-9JJGLFilAEff-r7Uyr3f2LhNgYcNzeWT5vkzWjjotLsEcE80oGEiLau6KJzsSpM lMJK-aXr8Msz3Vx4pjdgm4bj8-0saWeiJczJHH1GM2PkBJJOcFLJDVbeorm-Hj3UQgGSrFkIQtSlRnNoxpBtmM-gOjn3pnSnhaEqeARx3XKJdlVOtcWwIpQwUUQgyfb2jYEPMMXx0 9VjEuw=w711-h947-no?authuser=0


we also upgraded the 2 feed lines with 1/4" NiCopp and we believe the brakes are DONE!!!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jrIDQV3Ci5TEc7D0kAI9Jgf_0XlNnZL0CDJcSNkDpZXZI7vrG5-XgESZk56Xn5xnNDpZBCLj5jQjHYUPHuqjHHmwKQk2AULpTwxtX 7_XT7OzROqek3TTIWFTGiF035GdiG--LMq1l2hy-SoZQYEyX9OFT2Vv0xvCGymKac_e_jVwpOxZ909hwbYD_1jVe6C l5nbm3PV9Ct5lN16x-H0CtczAJsNBbbwIhVU_ZqXQloWzyQS5k0T4bWRztVyq6Nr1oY-Z0qh7HU3hFyu2GmqfZj6Fs0OKcUFrLc9Nw2kdK7IxzUKaQjjp1 vVm8TbkQLNXi_FsEuJ6uYbXqpV__qWQs0oKB8NDpAQDRiMcl1P ROLyUsuuXjZeq-KI-gu7t6aZDOW-PUr5EpycKzAlY9iMI-BRi3PGzQJtO-v1GbG1aDS4lHwWrg3lZ16o87v6YbWsA0V31TiLixFk2MaUnziq WAWQ1KCM35POXc_Z_hV95rsIpiFGZ2_FlRXuoT0oInI4CEcGUf gBPCCFTzrFOAm9qZ25dli-LIFCCoEaERvOI0n6oXqMW-d1XLc3h6m4Z1oris7Z5iItv9YnmBKErIgUnN4FHJqHBqwCqqOZ yzi_Q6epxcQ_dk6CHh0rzh8IFwIdvOKUUFsgYNEC-d0Tcx3jYZlEMq-gbU-NiCRH8kZNpocR9poVV6lkaCiDctp2FZJoBw4ZNtQV2cKXfs3jL 8agogsNzaA=w711-h947-no?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DpGZAgaxu0NIJx1tzkkkNZ9i3ZtFAVdhiJ1hhMnziW4bq8IYwX TCdrEa5m-l5oA8M8aSny6CjynLHmvVPn2fo5r7biTOoMi3FAaYPpUhRX49V-uqDaQ6ggeQJQTpUVfqW6bg4zCrfEjllx62omIOdAX6WTYcF15D 5cIx-i6av02Hez5Vk1g7uw9_Y14Z8Xyh9gfbALAPXsCSAOsL8ukgp6i KM9qUgrSCZTSyDjBb2m9S4gBTuCHWr0V5CLwNKT7m6IdJNqrhG Hnxhx0P11_5dGCyvvLUu8MMHBRbmv_8kmCACwPiJd2WLgiZsF5 7zPPKwmCjRWZskv-dWqtD4N5KYZupX8XT-WJoG8HgjG6Rkk0mLBwKCOyTaB79ZAysQvBoEVD805I1EC_6jFa kXK16JoNuu5w_sMqRKod0HFUyjrjY3zKENYdPhdUqtLIR9w4vI PSyMHKEwOTjdwBdACUC9H9RW2nkNAx8eW1usDcPaw26KpEncHx FA7ziHYXg9aYaEr3qkE6sZ0vFAIM9-jbeIiuqZjsl1P32p1kYcfohnB5YXk9aK7P8-6OsMwvIwaIdrcPZmwplgw3i5wGfZi3G_WGDMvEwOw01ydmjNEG OWPBAb_dfPq9PMoh0ykWBiz0vdKIW-cUU4M6A7Lja2BS4CyVFFdh-1njMgjaMKV9V4Zq-vGyHDcqu6WwfiwrLrhisJkGRcQfCGiSgxWEbLnBJbPudJw=w12 63-h947-no?authuser=0

[toadster]

also got a chance to re-setup the Russ Thompson turn signal on the replaced steering shaft

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/i22xV9smXIYKOVsykxDBC85vF-DqSYxpl8wvRHCa5YEfFYD_OeW58Tm10AtS5PxILTAQeP2hxo1I 8V7U15BGN4F1sodmY5i9sSJy5qj6MXYzsX-7VKRVLRmftdsy0__Tal4XKfRZnCX2_TRXPqqxcSOviGWD5XxtU BJoJNzEdxj3na4Dwi5nGEaXfdERH4oyAQwpcnyhHj7_lsrStay PxE6jUbavp4wa0YMkg1poq0dDlupQg1ztDU8xUKZsrS0iYu3z0 G8W9S29AJKAHWheiNKH5RFhkWfanLCqD9LLrW9x8HGtREZZvq3 uL3t_GxjDaMTi3u3IYDULz_cqf0WivLEcd5yQk8D0VJKOBXJCz ZLW45aoGP22nGTzKoGXaWJxS8gMaN-Z3OjF6jXb87P35FT-ytecu_DZNrahlkidYUt7CJKGIRkjl-F9ad5JkSsSv9ghjv_D1SL7aSlwSrJaihWiY1nNs1vOrfTrb-T2IIa_lxhxmOPmD7CFx7jDACbv0wenz8cbIMdF2jHp5FVCnHS8 I5XDxUbW_-wWEDkavj1RRy73nIg0xI4_0zpQD6Sk7N-wGB85wtT0I9bfQVXF5SsBg5o5pB-B2EJ3eXwJ-7rh_3Ns3fpx0VuFFaV9gsu3zz3p9Ik1HVPclMTiJ6AA7_yFeZH jpInObh6iKdmrEzk4lmrhBc7h63uHcx8uE88WSt6rVIsNMhyZ5 3vv0mizehu88A=w1092-h947-no?authuser=0

[toadster]

now that the brakes are tidied up - I got to do more panel riveting!

https://i.imgur.com/YE3LcGH.jpg?1 https://i.imgur.com/JNfLdsG.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/AB45AvU.jpg https://i.imgur.com/6OgAE0N.jpg

and OMG rear wheels and tires mounted!!!

https://i.imgur.com/ANtkXWu.jpg

[toadster]

also mounted the fuse panel, and am getting ready to drill some holes in the firewall

the three runs that aren't used in the roadster - do you guys cut them and tape off?
https://i.imgur.com/oMuxsEx.png
https://i.imgur.com/GvQJe5n.png?1 https://i.imgur.com/Siu9jEL.png?1

[Fman]

now that the brakes are tidied up - I got to do more panel riveting!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/j1vk3f0nVsE8p5CEK31FxYlCQxONwtHfXJ-qC_GuGNd_Q5H6DNuutomLPw6TQ6StgiYtS2mYFWKdKhJceCNCY 5HHO_Fn2dwCZaGfKNMZQYyJKB-nZbewBQGNnm2p1uIYEmKgIrXqzc0elTLcm2KnyStD13oY71xmI JIjQvYBnbPlslppSsShjqIIEZSf6-g60Xu2ALwliN1blui49tRpzbs4BXSczl8KKSDtQ1lJELasaxqh cZovduKyzeFiaacax2qQcMz76kpoEVgw5H-XpFClbmq0Wh62L0Gz0wsLD2vHn2jN5PARprTAZ8n74_ZxcV4gs 4sNa1RCWUnZgfce_tIeMWqYK6pIqM0b2d-jaJLxbY1W5SijNuyuV7sMQrv8zNkxuCX5ilt-NWaUAjccQYR7wYWEXk-V86hekj4noC6kBdUj5_AQjMI2i4nHBoovXqOn5Vp37hNfrCX8B VgS2Jm9s0XHKKJgnfvAeSDr4hUGsutZpdcHzHmFU5H_R4fBIsQ EnFx3qyCOyDfD8n3Tl65PZLsRuBpflb_cnVh4ikE1Ncyy6HfwC hPuVunrNfoklpKfABuPvR4zhpQBLhbzUyH_aL-PrwrXTsR4dKtGTXkozeVPURtfy1J7cFKEsBNSLPYTRX_oG2PI7 _1mrjmiAxcJPo6cEcIUKi4w7hLHTrK6SQeN1oKhxLuusoAydgX YbwmwQIYVg_OXaYJLLvXUqA8I=w697-h929-no?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NZ-k6OR3OUGg0EpIReqP_XPpY0UC5oD9dtPNadyu4q6U3nGwrQ0IA u7SPWCPaSCjBdxfg8r3r7s4lnsWZtW2YaSNxR_KTnYuFtJHZPO _WxaFNm7L69PUTIxDOReUWr0pgoyS2XAGTFRIe--HiPY0gY-gQCK3lFlVdxwbP-Uo17RpX8FRttDP4R5DY4iI0e4FiwDiQaWDF_ybDEJ-DSeM-yd_m1ZkZDZWW-mHOyvTqg0iCco9naI8CoheAAPv0HttDqZCujKdlU_5Q12uxGdb nqbPZYKby4Xw8JCBE_kUSuK0t2WSgFUcHQxLnpwQ2QERuXnN95 TrkCfpx15YfdbAPN79JFoq_kd-y8O5xkOgr5E4hjdS9otArMA-5W4B5XUaC8i-XL_1pUG0tq4nsxAYlHRzAEF2wpPhZ5g0f5YAQVhK76DiYMzaLj z3_jdX3CeyLcyYavS8iqpZbRce01UySKQuXoaMOzvsdnexlZYR 69nE3pGVmeQ61fgRMwurVrF-Rqn7r5bd-mzi1PEX6vujZ6JKZG_x2_VOwp9uoVEg9YP91sbY-cLL1o-p5-r0mFaYB6UqXVEg9XrUkuBRA7KtamH2tQbGWpATwv3jeG2VqLS_ J7PxT6okGqKqlqIr8goubZC9JZHx4HD5AIZhFNuAozSba5h_NA ZIAJ55PLo1wx3IUoxE5psuTYZheHtzDe_7utIHEwgofWeJtIyn XkXe6r8O=w1239-h929-no?authuser=0



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/32nFi2WSPyvBApma6F0QHBpgshqhpcZ99rKkxE-Dc3JKc_ce97StcwWj1zftNihGxDxgBCOA_lzwY3DNatPkmWhSR-j30PvItNTGXu7NpZInCnyMK1qzHFX3D6xxE1rUGisaQFi3LdDF HYB3GAY5B_j2bUW4046mtZqYlDo_FAs5l2cDLBFuOAycGHE30K OV7amWL6LfIbXDbcowJ-DAx3Lpkb8kUMxhzTrphtGdJIMQp9CVUV3ff42yQq7q3Sd6PDBS C_oSFT371PpLVkV8Ohbtkh4xgtb1UmicPeZHtxuyM8B2ER05IX iN8JsruQ4CIbERJ8cbR5j-uCsRbNzrwHbVhYE4b0IWwG4_uaj_gdn33QU6C_PO3B-es1z1n0jQk3JZYQ-z9DdXWvx7B30BcxhRMU8oA3J4fLEhVwjnVd9m1x62nBFSZyJKT FTBaY42VestsFWsJXht2JKB6v8EGlmblSU6utbMBYnw1GShaBf RZ4JrV-D9T8UOQL4cBQMeA-fcMBQreap-FTzDUqJPDEHnFmGbmTyjzXC-b4ABdqU8Pa-0IsPhJM6EpGLaeju79CFTj1xWbdlwtO-s7sLaVE7bT5hX0We9jj87oj-YCa4ifhn_1gQRhEAjLWpvq5pPpN-EoBjpYZUv7xH3A1Uh9AE7DYfLmBLUnuUTC2UW-c7Bhepsrv2_JM-gTFRUQTEiSexXsTuKTUU6cVSsGiinzB1R=w697-h929-no?authuser=0

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https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xpjuiGLuksDXyTb4EVAenldpTdv15mehuCrYt-4nMj3VhZrQPW-6UJc596ZTbMVWd0o4cjgI7HcgtBL8BuZP8RP_ZW1EgTp4yedRI VkxLBJvBsfIlrMfcazbs5svT9XwwelgekuJZxiHO-XbB8pNLoPHQD2a686xiT7c3cx9SLQ5_rNYFaxLNwap7FS41XkY bdfP0zEorRWTTqjIK-TFRrtqZsKmP6VbWEb1vU3vOS7hUCWZZxWpj5St1A-XnLNHsi3FuH7DJn0nKYgjqZe6ca0lUmb0c_u_9o5MP9RCISovG O6LhoxQvIJuBI02Eyi46LT2AgSIf64n19ROOLRUqlB6HxwI0m8 dHXWhlwe3Zlk9ZaUGIG06l0FV12iG_GIWSHE_6dG8VPpzaH0hc oS9KRU3roKdNAzbx_H7PsS2E-qR487QovxG1MrgVLb8bmZLdspblpMM-cuQW_L9mmNXu-dGKq0HInip2XviAzjcX0rgM8wpBJz8atcmTHkCpr0lgkdJf1DJ PRpdhi9DSsdNhNRg_hmYELmkKPOZ7OgjpbRu37kODwYC60sXP_ A_F6yjl6WjFi6isHansgpu3tWKisl4qvwosTtTQMP_xE2X8WvH v_4YUqzQswb5UoPDTOx-KFuhCTsRc4td86Md5xlJSfj9R6W5xD-Bt3tEdZm2z5CwXl9egYKysIme_RmQ8FHq3LYpErF44SZim6Ya4 8YE86ME=w1239-h929-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ph0u_spT7b8fuvWUD9u79PcM_4_cSc54NjdwZ_oH62okk-x3jz634BhDmg9FzWkqXi_ddvk5obUSxjvTfkQMpn9Yul1XCmvb MrG-afNSu11-ujS0mpzg7FGwg3RACC2SnXcKVMZe9ymbSKcXlvVMUZBR5bMyux JPWoArkt1XFZwSbWrCay1Vrwu2JH8pM0RZfm4jaR-Q2_B6IvDbvFnS4G7zuQCMK-rlTvwbeZHPBs9cqoDWAjtPU6UNGYVvEgBZL15MSGXLTKYTByPM 1bSr3Cz5ColUpk9bvBkRu8gPsYtbepRnnkf_cFADbURguhWVEO r3sdOty6WCqZeoJ9je0TTHqVj1KAaWCI8bDjleiGmZvCvNKyA7 tIVqw1IaOtP_Puh72u8RgbTkSKbtNZSG1hAkvbL4P8z1jQS0PF k0mL0Z-iaBb2QkrDRFmA4ovHA4Wazt_qEk3mNbS-5VJyCf-ic9gxh_1FRU7o7Zo-1UujW3FxCgWubdE1RaeiKx2fc1Rr8qdyyh21733qZVBkpSAo7e rgrQGKjT4xgYc8nSx9NnsBLXjKZCCvKaffewil6Zkrn-Sa5E04fUElGvm6BYXL-FVAnUCluro4pU0NequHjkrwTkyYEcz-j2Ch7KnG0vpeSskxAQW3cnMFoUzI9jw9vewWcSb8fnGgX2rIj1 RuKhBTBvoPOhGSL6g8VqMgKgtCQfrx2NB10ESEAWpliGrXPM=w 1239-h929-no?authuser=0

and OMG rear wheels and tires mounted!!!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yRD4hFYDzOpGH3uOTRycVOJ_sP3sM_f-DNLUpsidlXeN5N5TZd7VbfR6di6ya4_SMuDDBFyhq7H-bLaBD1w170oxIIyvooQs9O53HHptENH1veLF6SrdI6vPtUeb3T sX7iNPdiQ8SBQ_ViAwjVqWfHcbFw7-CrcBgTfr8ng4yFCxj9RcBMSBo8gZyJigR9Df98SiJCe5ztvSyG xFfdLll57DFvBEJfAGc38A2VLdcJ_9X7ICJDhRxomODRPH_3Pi NkvY0fr6ku2kkwLtnFPcxMyVOefy0xwjYcBrkdg0m4Tz0Ww6y8 9cn8nUA_o1KOKR1Z2IduQjkIoL4_2Fkwf-3OsMCFOGZoWhb6Z44GUUtcqE6v1z5tVkXH2HkfBlpVSJ3wPVNs PjIDD2byJWdp6Zlz8Wr-V5hUx6aTL9Yf9ggEGQbdDiptc7dD8d63QDg4_dJnqkBEv9kB9A IqDxjS--LU0h9LD8BznogPUvAh61TK0PZVFB6AS5VI_BBHE9VumexgiaP7 y9XkqgJB2Wh1qA3pY2qSTX-mTwIwlPj0BWNPd81D1HHWQ01gYQwq3GrDmGei7MtIeuWcvV7cG Cm5dTXAQA8V8FjdLWRSmmkAnlDbRDyMPmvAxkmzVZuIyQN4090 oau3J92mRZjyq3tbwFsg50qySddKKf7xlUhFjGwXCyJeW7YPo-QB0kyRRPDMvI1MRnvfEobLg2r00aQiolk8hSM=w1239-h929-no?authuser=0

Way to go todd but I dont think your pics are coming through tho... Just a box with a ? on my end. Maybe it is my computer that is the problem... I can see all the other pics.

[toadster]

Way to go todd but I dont think your pics are coming through tho... Just a box with a ? on my end. Maybe it is my computer that is the problem... I can see all the other pics.

I think fixed now - thanks!

[Fman]

I think fixed now - thanks!

Ah much better, looking good! Those wheels are very cool! FWIW on the extra connections on the RF harness some guys diet the looms and remove them. I hit the easy button and just taped them off with gorilla tape. This is what FFR recommended to me. Would be cool if you could find some type of caps to go on them.

[JohnK]

Those wheels are cool! Congratulations - it's a great day when the wheels and tires go on for the first time. It definitely makes it feel like much more of a car.

I did diet out the 33 hot rod connector from the wiring harness, along with some other stuff that I don't need in my build. It was a bit of work and involved stripping off almost all of the wire loom so I now have a massive mess all over my cockpit that I'm working to re-organize and re-wrap. In the end it'll be a cleaner package but it's a lot of work.

[toadster]

made some great progress the past two days!

got a few more steps done with the breeze battery box - had to notch the ABS platform that I had built to allow the braces to fit squarely onto the battery
we inadvertently did the starter side of the ground cable first, so we'll trim to fit when the engine is in!
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I have to say Mark Reynolds is a master! I was going through the directions and saw a grease fitting - I thought, hmm a grease fitting for a battery tray!?
yeah, he's thought of it all - a 90-degree fitting so it's easier to grease the LCA!!

Next up was to create a few trunk panels for a good surface to mount some carpet in the upper trunk walls...
yes, they don't look great, but once covered with carpet - unless you have x-ray vision they'll never be heard from again!

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[toadster]

next up was the big chunks of the wire harness! drilling the firewall is one of those things you don't want to screw up!
we measured about 10 times :) had to move the holes over about 1/2" to clear the reservoirs - but it's done!

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ran the front and rear harnesses and tried getting the footbox tidied up to clear the hoses
right now it looks like a TON of space with the firewall forward from FFMetal, but I know it's gonna get cramped REAL soon!
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[toadster]

started doing some more mockup for the dash, moving switches around, etc... this is where the OCD kicks in hard!

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and a little hint of what's coming...
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[JB in NOVA]

Looking good! You've been putting in some serious hours in the garage!

[460.465USMC]

Nice progress, Toadster! Looking good. I'm also working electrical...and enjoying it. Keep up the good work.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Looking at the photo your dash appears high Todd. It would probably be prudent to drop the body on for a test fit before making anything permanent.

Jeff

[John Ibele]

Looking great, Toadster. Dash OCD ... tell me about it :rolleyes:. I actually found cutout photos of the gauges helped to better assess sightlines around the steering wheel. You're making serious progress!

[Railroad]

May or may not be an issue, one on line builder left the clamps holding the dash in place, on too long. Results, depressions in the padded dash that would not come out.

[toadster]

Looking at the photo your dash appears high Todd. It would probably be prudent to drop the body on for a test fit before making anything permanent.
Jeff

you would know with the CF dash, does it lay out the same as the standard sheetmetal/covered dash? the rounded edge is a bit deceiving...
the center is currently flush with the top of the hoop and the edges below...


May or may not be an issue, one on line builder left the clamps holding the dash in place, on too long. Results, depressions in the padded dash that would not come out.

hopefully carbon fiber won't have this issue -right?

[toadster]

moved the dash down about another 1/8th inch to account for the RT Turn Signal, the center and passenger side look good - may have to shave the driver side a bit during body fitting


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got more wiring done for the rear ABS signal wires 22AWG is so small...!!

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[toadster]

I've been battling around what to do in the trunk to add more space since I have the large Boyd's Tank - only room for 2" drop, not a deep one, but ever little bit counts!

trimmed off the passenger side diagonal, left about 7 inches... now to find a good sheet-metal person to take my plans and get my mini-drop trunk setup!

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[John Ibele]

May or may not be an issue, one on line builder left the clamps holding the dash in place, on too long. Results, depressions in the padded dash that would not come out.

This is a good general caution. Shortly after finishing my dash I left it face down across the tranny tunnel for 'only a few hours' while we went out to dinner. I know, not great shop practice. I was rewarded with a nice dent across my glove box door which took a few days to completely fade away. A few more hours and I think I would have been facing a re-do.

[toadster]

did a ton of measuring last night for the CF dash, not a part that can disguise screwups so it's a measure 10x and cut once type of setup...

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I ordered other buttons/switches from https://billetautomotivebuttons.com/ and they should be here soon, will do a final setup, measure and place the dash soon
I do plan on prepping the dash setup and putting the seat in the car to verify visibility of dials and lights

my son and I started determining the wire diet for the Wilwood EPB, but waiting to finalize any wire cuts due to the placement of the EPB and ACC line
the wire loom is excellent, but about 2x the length that is needed

if you remember, I can't do the RT drop trunk because I have the Boyd's Tank gastank

152253

also played around with some CAD to do the trunk floor drop design, something I haven't done in years... getting some ideas on how to lay it out

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it's about 35" length at it's widest and 10.5" high in the square area, and 2.1" deep

[egchewy79]

This is a good general caution. Shortly after finishing my dash I left it face down across the tranny tunnel for 'only a few hours' while we went out to dinner. I know, not great shop practice. I was rewarded with a nice dent across my glove box door which took a few days to completely fade away. A few more hours and I think I would have been facing a re-do.

I also found that if you leave your shoulder harness on a padded leather wrapped trans tunnel, it'll leave a mark that takes a bit to resolve.

[460.465USMC]

Hi Todd. I thought it was your thread (can't seem to find it now) where you commented about using version W of the RF Chassis Harness instructions. I downloaded version T from F5 website instructions page a month ago. Wondering if I have an outdated version of the manual? If you have version W, would you mind sending it to me?

[toadster]

the W copy I have is hardcopy - maybe FFR could post a new one!

[toadster]

making some progress... was on vacation to visit 2 of our kids in Albuquerque last week, so back at it!

got the ABS HCU wired up, all the wheel sensor wires are soldered in and just need to find 12V constant connections and land the grounds, 2 more CAN wires will have to wait for the ECU
152827 152828

we ended up using the TS100 Digital OLED Programmable Soldering Iron Station with B2 Tip, DC5525 Embedded Interface STM32 Sensor Chip (https://amzn.to/3sTlAJu)
https://i.imgur.com/I0jQGPA.png?1
It's fully portable and uses the DeWalt 18V battery with this adapter (https://amzn.to/3ywOTmE)
https://i.imgur.com/44phs55.png?1

also got by billet buttons from https://billetautomotivebuttons.com/ (Australian company)
very nice quality, and look to be well built/documented - plus customizable!

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I was able to borrow a Siroco heater-A/C unit from Ken Pike to see how to mock up in the roadster.
this setup is used in the HotRod and Coupe, and will take some modification...

my son is a whiz at 3D printing so we're testing out some fitment possibilities to maximize space behind the dash
here's a sample print, still refining...

152830

also figuring out the number of relays needed for my accessories and thinking of a nice fuse block with expansion

This one looks to be built rather well and has excellent reviews; 6 of the fuses are HAAT, and 6 are ACC
Blue Sea Systems 12 Blade ATO/ATC Fuse Block (https://amzn.to/3zqonMM)

https://i.imgur.com/riemow5.png?1

[JB in NOVA]

Dang, that is impressive! Nice work.

[toadster]

it's been a busy week, I've been helping my son get his house ready for sale - 4 18 hour days of painting, crown-molding, moving cut lumber, etc... sheesh!

anyhoo - back to the car..

I did final payment on my engine/trans with Mike Forte - but still waiting on the control pack!! should be here in a few weeks!
I also ordered an A/C kit from FFR, but no ETA yet - that's really holding up my 'behind-dash' layout plans as it will be a custom setup...

so I figured I'd start laying out the lower panel below the dash - just ahead of the shifter

I have to say, I've been having fun with a free tool called eMachineshop.com (http://emachineshop.com), honestly I could play with this thing all day but have to get more done :)
it will even do estimates and let you see things in 3D

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now that it's laid out, I'll probably wait a bit more to do the dash since it has the drop down section and the Whitby box that I bought is too high, so some trimming will be needed