25th MKIV #9772 Build NOR*CAL: new vanity plate

[toadster]

Finally got my drop trunk built and pre-drilled today - I was glad to find a local sheet metal guy https://sheet-metal-contractors.cmac.ws/hangtown-sheet-metal/1278/
He did the 31.5" x 10.5" x 2" drop trunk for $60 and even soldered the corners to seal things up

my prior design was keeping more of the x-brace in the trunk, but ended up cutting it to make more room, now at least it's rectangular and can fit some larger things.
In total, it comes out to be about .38 sq ft, which is a little over 2 gallons... not huge, but will make a difference! Would I do it again? hmm... probably!

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note that this is galvanized, and I wanted to protect the soldered joints so i sprayed some paint on them - it will be covered up, but a little paint never hurts
I got my trusty DeWalt grinder and quickly removed the rest of the 3/4" tube on the driver side. I left about 5-7 inches of the diagonal on both sides to give the box a little more support

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the next part was tricky - aligning the trimmed trunk piece, and fitting the drop trunk was really tight... I had to remove/refit, shave, trim, etc to get it just right... I think its going to be really helpful to keep tools and stuff from sliding all around in the trunk

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this last pic gives some idea on size with a couple of soda cans... like I said, it's not huge, but it will sure help...
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[Vspeeds]

Looking good Todd

[JohnK]

That looks great! I'm sure every little bit of extra space will help with such a small trunk.

[toadster]

Looking good Todd


That looks great! I'm sure every little bit of extra space will help with such a small trunk.

thanks guys! this was one of the big tradeoffs going with the Boyd Welding tank - 25 gallons of gas vs 15, but no standard 'drop trunk' like Russ Thompson (or others) have done...
gives me back a little more room!

[toadster]

ok - got the trunk paneling 99% done! almost ready to button up the seating panels - making some last minute cabling changes then it will be sealed up!

starting to get sealed up!

the hinged access panel, just in case the fuel pump needs service
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fuel sender access panel with some rivnuts, will dig up some black 10/24 screws to match the carpet
realizing since I was cutting the 3/4" supports, I should have just went wall-to-wall for the drop box... !!
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driver side kickpanel riveted in finally...
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center section mounted up
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the trunk all buttoned up, just need a latching point for the hinged door and will probably run some Sheetmetal trim to keep things tidy
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[toadster]

lots more aluminum work today, getting the cockpit sealed up, running out of rivets again!! LOL

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my wife has been working nights, so I was a good hubby today and made her some chicken and smoked mac & cheese on the smoker today :)
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and I installed my 'red' sticker for my starter button - got it from http://rappygraphics.com - they do amazing work with vinyl, and most of my Raptor has stuff from them
can't complain for $5 and they sent 3 of them just in case they got boogered up... a little heat and it fits the concave Raptor start button perfectly!
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I think once this back wall is done, the only riveting left will be the driver footbox, maybe the center tunnel and some odd and ends... whew!

[toadster]

started mocking up the Breeze cubby wall and the rollbars last night, moved the cubby wall to 11.5" back from the cockpit wall/upper trunk floor - just happened to work out that way due to the extra side panels I installed

after installing the rear slant bars, and adding the hoops, I need to move the slanted bars UP to the hoop for fitment THEN drill
drilling is going to be an exciting moment to be honest...

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[Fman]

Nice work Todd! Really coming together nicely...

Having A/C will definitely make the Sacramento summers much more tolerable to drive your car! and we really need to get everyone at your place this fall for some of that smoked Mac 'n Cheese & Chicken!:D

[toadster]

Nice work Todd! Really coming together nicely...

Having A/C will definitely make the Sacramento summers much more tolerable to drive your car! and we really need to get everyone at your place this fall for some of that smoked Mac 'n Cheese & Chicken!:D

yeah, if FFR could actually ship the A/C unit I could start the fab work! they're SOOOOO backordered right now!
Agreed, I can cook up a storm for the next get-together! Nobody will go home hungry! :)


I'm currently fitting up, prepping to drill the rollbars - but the darn things are stuck! the tolerances are really tight! Trying to take my time and not scratch the chrome, I've used gloves and no luck... one of those walk away moments for sure!

edit: got them 'un-stuck'

noticed there's a little bump on the front supports, I assume those are 'stops' and not something I need to drive the bars 'past' to lock them in?
the manual shows what I think is an older style where the rollbars go inside the mounts

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[Fman]

yeah, if FFR could actually ship the A/C unit I could start the fab work! they're SOOOOO backordered right now!
Agreed, I can cook up a storm for the next get-together! Nobody will go home hungry! :)


I'm currently fitting up, prepping to drill the rollbars - but the darn things are stuck! the tolerances are really tight! Trying to take my time and not scratch the chrome, I've used gloves and no luck... one of those walk away moments for sure!

edit: got them 'un-stuck'

noticed there's a little bump on the front supports, I assume those are 'stops' and not something I need to drive the bars 'past' to lock them in?
the manual shows what I think is an older style where the rollbars go inside the mounts

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Are you using a Cobalt bit? that is hard steel and it will destroy any other bit than a Cobalt. I bought two Cobalt bits, one for a pilot hole and the other larger for the bolt. I also used the 520 Speed works boltless kit for upper bolt, nice setup and eliminates the Frankenstein bolt and risk of chipping the roll bars where you can see it.

I honestly do not recall those stops/bumps on mine, I just pushed down the bar as far as possible. They definitely could have been there just did not see them. Probably did not notice them because I stopped reading the manual half way through my build :D

[JohnK]

noticed there's a little bump on the front supports, I assume those are 'stops' and not something I need to drive the bars 'past' to lock them in?
the manual shows what I think is an older style where the rollbars go inside the mounts

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My frame has those little bumps also, so I think they must be an intentional stop and not just a random weld booger.

[toadster]

Are you using a Cobalt bit? that is hard steel and it will destroy any other bit than a Cobalt. I bought two Cobalt bits, one for a pilot hole and the other larger for the bolt. I also used the 520 Speed works boltless kit for upper bolt, nice setup and eliminates the Frankenstein bolt and risk of chipping the roll bars where you can see it.

I honestly do not recall those stops/bumps on mine, I just pushed down the bar as far as possible. They definitely could have been there just did not see them. Probably did not notice them because I stopped reading the manual half way through my build :D

LOL yeah I catch myself doing things and thinking, hmm I should check the manual... but then you get situations like this where it's REALLY outdated!
I am using cobalt bits, and I too have the 520 speedworks boltless kit - the problem I'm having is that the tube fitting is so tight that it's not easy to rotate the assembly - did yours spin easily together? or was it a tight fit?

[Fman]

LOL yeah I catch myself doing things and thinking, hmm I should check the manual... but then you get situations like this where it's REALLY outdated!
I am using cobalt bits, and I too have the 520 speedworks boltless kit - the problem I'm having is that the tube fitting is so tight that it's not easy to rotate the assembly - did yours spin easily together? or was it a tight fit?

Tight fit, takes a little bit of twisting power to get them together. I also had to put a pipe bender on the lower rear passenger tab to bend it a tad and get the alignment better for the rear leg. This seemed to help make it easier to twist the rear bar together with the 520 kit. The better you can make it fit will help Ken out because he is going to have to take it apart and re-install it.

[egchewy79]

I have the bumps at the bottom of my mounts as well. I did need to "hone" the inside of the rear tube and sand the mating surface of the upper tube to get my boltless kit to spin easily. That and a lot of white lithium grease. Use some antiseize on the upper bolt threads and consider using red loctite on the lower threads as mine started to unthread from the bottom when I was trying to remove it after mocking it up with blue loctite. It's a huge pain in the a$$ if the lower threads spin instead of the upper ones.

[toadster]

I have the bumps at the bottom of my mounts as well. I did need to "hone" the inside of the rear tube and sand the mating surface of the upper tube to get my boltless kit to spin easily. That and a lot of white lithium grease. Use some antiseize on the upper bolt threads and consider using red loctite on the lower threads as mine started to unthread from the bottom when I was trying to remove it after mocking it up with blue loctite. It's a huge pain in the a$$ if the lower threads spin instead of the upper ones.

Thanks E :)

yes, we dremelled the male and female ends and used quite a bit of white lithium grease to fit them up... it's amazing how a small coating of chrome can create such a friction point!!
also, I highly recommend an automatic center punch (https://amzn.to/3EKz7sy), painters tape (https://amzn.to/3EKz7sy), and 2 cobalt bits: 3/16" (https://amzn.to/3nXQgch) to get through the initial cut, and 5/16" for the final holes (https://amzn.to/3CEjwIZ) - use lots of cutting oil too (https://amzn.to/3u4EIVL)!

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only 6 holes drilled but took us about an hour since this hardened steel is pretty tough!
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[egchewy79]

might be too late, but make sure you consider the orientation for the roll bar bolts with the rear cockpit wall on. I think I installed by bolts side to side instead of front to back to make assembly/disassembly a bit easier.

[toadster]

might be too late, but make sure you consider the orientation for the roll bar bolts with the rear cockpit wall on. I think I installed by bolts side to side instead of front to back to make assembly/disassembly a bit easier.

we definitely thought several times about that and given the tight clearance against the inside wall we opted to drill front to back, not side to side, but then again I'm going to have Ken install them after paint :)
I spend quite a while looking through forum pics to see what folks did for their installations... it's honestly a mix of stuff!

[toadster]

engine arrives Oct 1st - super excited! :)

worked a bit tonight on the lower dash setup
came out a bit wonky, but used some aluminum strips to square things out

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the head unit is going to be VERY tight... Alpine ILX-W650 (https://amzn.to/3o592yx) that is already very shallow, we shall see when things go together...

also started my Vinegaroon today to stain my leather door pulls
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I used some 0000 steel wool (https://amzn.to/3ueEKKs) and white vinegar (https://amzn.to/3EPoi8y)

will be checking the mixture the next few days prior to filtering it :)

[toadster]

last night did more work in the trunk area, I think we're 99% ready to start putting down the Thermo-tec layer

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where does everyone run their electrical/audio lines for setups like this? grommet out the bottom of the trunk? or down the side rails?
it's pretty amazing how tight things get when it all comes together like this!!

[JohnK]

That cubby wall looks good. Nice job slotting in the trunk struts. I didn't install any audio in my build, but if I was going to I'd probably run the wiring similar to how the rear harness is run - through a grommet in the trunk floor and then along the transmission tunnel. That would put it right at your center console.

[toadster]

That cubby wall looks good. Nice job slotting in the trunk struts. I didn't install any audio in my build, but if I was going to I'd probably run the wiring similar to how the rear harness is run - through a grommet in the trunk floor and then along the transmission tunnel. That would put it right at your center console.

that's my initial thought... want to keep power and audio wires separated though, just my nature to make clean audio - but then again, what do I know, probably won't hear much anyways LOL

I have to remember to save room for 3rd brake light wiring, and internal trunk lighting too... geesh! this stuff adds up quickly!

[toadster]

here are some pics of how I prepped the Breeze cubby

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4 holes? yep - adding rear speakers; so I used a 4 3/4" hole saw for the setup

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since I'm mounting my subwoofer on the breeze wall, I wanted to give it some more 'structure' so I added these simple braces to keep the wall a bit more rigid

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mounted the mid-wall with some thermotec to help deaden the tinny sounds... I used some of the scraps from trimming to where the subwoofer will be mounted just to dampen any odd vibrations - this will get carpeted over as well


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the rear cockpit wall trimmed out, just a few more holes to mount speakers but in all essence done and ready to mount
I imagine it will be simpler to put carpet in this section with the cockpit wall not yet attached - recommendations?

[toadster]

My engine was supposed to arrive today but it won’t be till Monday or Tuesday so I took my frustrations out on my dashboard :cool:

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[Fman]

Great work Todd you are really pulling together one amazing car. That dash looks sick!

[johnpinetree]

You are crushing!

[toadster]

Dyed my door pulls last night...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z5wYtmsaT5c

Simple concoction to make this (and super cheap!)
• mason jar(s) https://amzn.to/3uDnmiY
• vinegar (I used white vinegar, but apple cider works good too!) https://amzn.to/3a9ADWW (https://amzn.to/3a9ADWW)
• 0000 steel wool (don't use a brillo pad because of the soap) https://amzn.to/3uH6tnw
• plastic wrap https://amzn.to/3A5E2kc
• coffee filters https://amzn.to/3lhw6IF
• paintbrush, you can use a foam brush as well https://amzn.to/3D6TM8q
• a few days’ time...


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Steps to create this:
1. Fill one of your jars with steel wool. I did about 1 steel wool pads in my 16 oz jar but depending on the size of your mason jar you can add more/less. You can also shred them up to create more surface area.
2. Fill the jar with vinegar, about 3/4ths full if it’s a smaller jar. Cover it up with plastic wrap and poke a few holes in it. This allows some of the gas to escape during the chemical process.
3. Make sure you put your jar somewhere that it’s warm, and away from noses – it can smell during the process. Also, protect the area around the jar in case you bump it or spill any of the mixture.
4. Now the patience kicks in - stir it every day to help get the bubbles to rise and mix the rust. Some say by 3 days it should be done. You should be getting a rusty brown color on your surface and more of a rust than a vinegar smell near the end.
5. I filtered the mixture 3 times with the coffee strainer, it’s still a cloudy mixture but you just want to remove the chunks!
6. Be sure to be in a ventilated area and wear some gloves! Paint away! You’ll notice an ashen, or brown tone, but it will get deep grey and after a few coats pretty darn black!
7. Some rinse with a baking soda wash, but I just rinsed the parts well with water. I’ll probably protect it with some mink oil or protectant! Looks darned good if you ask me!


Hope you enjoy!

[John Ibele]

Wow, those look great, Todd. I have that in my plans but it's good to have the detail and photos of the end result. Car is looking great.

[JB in NOVA]

Todd, that is some beautiful work! I had planned to do the same thing, but I was just too lazy. In the meantime (and to my surprise), one of the most frequent comments I get (albeit mostly from women) is: "OMG, look at those leather straps, so cool!" I think the raw leather gives the Roadster a vintage look that catches the eye very quickly against the black interior. Just food for thought, but I think I'm going to keep mine raw.

[toadster]

Todd, that is some beautiful work! I had planned to do the same thing, but I was just too lazy. In the meantime (and to my surprise), one of the most frequent comments I get (albeit mostly from women) is: "OMG, look at those leather straps, so cool!" I think the raw leather gives the Roadster a vintage look that catches the eye very quickly against the black interior. Just food for thought, but I think I'm going to keep mine raw.

haha love it ;) thanks guys for the kind words, and good luck with those 'straps :)

[toadster]

FYI - here's a pic of the door cards and the leather straps - I really like the mix of stitching and threads in the leather...


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I'm contacting FFR about the quality of the door cards... the edges are terrible! 80% of the glue came apart and some of the edges don't have enough material to cover the frame!

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[toadster]

after 5 nervous days of - we are locating your crate, UPS finally dropped off the Coyote today!

we tore down the pallet in about 40 minutes, kudos to Mike Forte's team for a solid crate build!
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of course, we started modding instantly LOL

thanks to the insight of Michael Craven who is also doing ABS - I had to change the thermostat housing to the Procharger ATI AB018A-052 2015+ Mustang GT H.O. Thermostat Housing (https://shop.brutespeed.com/ATI-AB018A-052-2015-Mustang-GT-HO-Thermostat-Housing-ATI-AB018A-052.htm)
This changes the output 90-degrees due to my ABS setup blocking a downward facing lower radiator hose, yet one more use of the inch-pound torque wrench :)

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I also opted to add the MMR Head Cooling Mod for 2018+ PN#455478B (https://www.modularmotorsportsracing.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=555:67955e60a57bb04514f49c33c9832d10), I mean - why not protect the #8 cylinder from over temp issues...
plus it's MUCH easier to do this NOW when you can straddle the transmission to get the freeze plugs out
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glad I didn't spring the extra $20 for an AN fitted hose, it's tight enough in there with just a regular hose for flow

[edwardb]

FYI - here's a pic of the door cards and the leather straps - I really like the mix of stitching and threads in the leather...


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I'm contacting FFR about the quality of the door cards... the edges are terrible! 80% of the glue came apart and some of the edges don't have enough material to cover the frame!

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No excuse for that. But can be fixed in about 10 minutes with contact cement. I prefer DAP Weldwood® Gel Formula Contact Cement. Carried in most big box stores. Brush on both surfaces. Let air dry until not tacky. Press down and you're done. Pretty good chance if replaced will also have wrong/insufficient adhesive. Maybe made by the same supplier that does their seats. The lower cushion covering is almost always also coming off. With similar looking adhesive as your door card pictures.

[460.465USMC]

after 5 nervous days of - we are locating your crate, UPS finally dropped off the Coyote today!

we tore down the pallet in about 40 minutes, kudos to Mike Forte's team for a solid crate build!


Congrats on the Coyote delivery! I also ordered from Forte and agree the crate was quite solid. The WiFi here at the university pool (daughter's swim practice) um...sucks! So, your pictures were taking forever to load and I gave up. But, excited for you!

[toadster]

No excuse for that. But can be fixed in about 10 minutes with contact cement. I prefer DAP Weldwood® Gel Formula Contact Cement. Carried in most big box stores. Brush on both surfaces. Let air dry until not tacky. Press down and you're done. Pretty good chance if replaced will also have wrong/insufficient adhesive. Maybe made by the same supplier that does their seats. The lower cushion covering is almost always also coming off. With similar looking adhesive as your door card pictures.

I agree, I chatted with FFR and they agreed that it looks pretty bad... of course, asking for extended time to get it resolved... some of the edges don't have enough material to wrap around the panel... it's cut, or too short...!

I have to visit an upholsterer anyways for some other work so I may be able to get some ideas...

Thx for the feedback!

[toadster]

busy with other items now that the engine is here!

my Control Pack is on backorder, Mike Forte thinks it should only be about 2 more weeks - fingers crossed!
Also, my hydraulic clutch kit from Forte was missing the slave cylinder... was kind of surprised to see that missing!

anyhoo... been busy figuring out the footbox fresh air setup, spend way too much time drilling, fitting, adjusting, etc... I'm ordering a few 90-degree elbows to make sure they're mounted up out of the way of the headers.

due to the wilwood pedal box and the way the blower gate aligned, I had to remove one leg from the plate
I ended up using 2 longer 10-24 screw so it threads and snugs up the 2 plates, but also gives me a mounting point on the footbox
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I know some have said that the footbox blowers don't do much, or get hot but I hope this will work well. I figure I have ThermoTec inside, I'll have exterior insulation as well on the footbox, plus my headers are Jet-Hot coated...

I have a couple of Seaflo 3" inline blower fans (https://amzn.to/2YChRWk), they move about 130cfm, if you want more go up to the 4" model
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I wanted to get an idea of how I'll run the 3" hose through the elephant ears so I mounted them temporarily
and yes - THEY ARE BACKWARD in these pics, so DO NOT MOUNT THEM THIS WAY

my mistake is your blessing in knowledge :)

[toadster]

but wait, there's more!

I nearly have the trunk done - I think a couple of holes are still needed to run the following:



remote turn on wire for the subwoofer
power line for the 3rd brake light
speaker wires for left/right rear speakers
power wire for LED trunk light


for the trunk - I have access panels for the fuel sender and the center section is hinged for easier access to the fuel pump, return line
simple 10-24 rivnuts (https://amzn.to/3ArpqvP) with button head screws (https://amzn.to/3FEZOz9) for sealing it up
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I'd really like to get carpet in the cubby before I put on the rear cockpit wall, I may get some of the 20oz bass boat carpeting - again, decisions!
and still contemplating a door for the cubby... decisions, decisions...

I'm pretty happy with how the cubby wall worked out

I have the braces mounted to the rear trunk hoop for more structure in the center
I also riveted in the Breeze side mounts which may need trimming later but at least it makes things much more solid!
I used aluminum tape on ALL joints in the trunk...and hard to get spots got a good dose of silicone...
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overall, the trunk sounds much more solid - AND should be worry free in puddles...

[toadster]

slow progress... got a few elbows to feed the footboxes and help mitigate the heat from the headers

parts to setup the footbox so far:

Woodstock W1141 3-Inch Aluminum Blastgate (https://amzn.to/2Z8MWRy) $16/ea
#10-24 Phillips Pan Head Screws with Lock Nut Kit (https://amzn.to/3lUAxZV)(varies depending on size) but the blastgates use 10-24 screws
Spectre Performance 8791 3" ID 90 Degree Boot (https://amzn.to/3jjM43j) $19/ea
3" Bi-Metal Speed Slot Hole Saw (https://amzn.to/3DU7ufl) ~$15/ea

let me remind you, if you use a holesaw on metal and there is already some ThermoTec attached - be prepared for a messy saw :)

I wanted to tuck the passenger side vent up high and make sure it would clear the pending Coyote ECU mount so I opted for the top corner of the passenger footbox just outside the frame rail
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in order to do this, the blast gate had to fit inside that triangular space which is recessed in the upper footbox, this meant trimming!
the reason I had to trim so much is because when you pull to open the gate the squared off plate would rub on the frame, it's a really tight fit now but it works!
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in order to mount the blast gate, I used 2 longer 10-24 screws and locknuts to hold it in place
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and top it off with the 90 degree elbow - ready for the 3" hose...
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[toadster]

trying to sort through my A/C shipment mess... really peeved, this took 2 months to get 1/2 of it was FFR delay and the other 1/2 was FedEx

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unsure who the heck actually packed this box at FFR, but it was most likely a marsupial... yes, i'm a bit upset that a $2k shipment had zero packing materials, and was 70% air
The condenser is a banana shape, and has some marring of the fins... I mean, the compressor was just bouncing around inside this huge box of air, so something had to take the brunt of shipment - right?
2 of the bags were open and the content were strewn throughout the larger box... still need to do a full inventory, but dang this is really depressing to wait for this and this is the result
I contact FedEx and they said to contact FFR, so I left a message... ugh!

On a side note, like Papa - I moved my trunk wiring off to the passenger side of the trunk - I think it makes for a cleaner installation and will show a cleaner trunk setup

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pretty much ready to carpet the trunk now, need to find more material to cover the breeze cubby wall as well

[toadster]

still going through the parts list for the A/C kit - I know the condenser is bent/damaged, other parts seem to be 'ok' but there are actually POL items as well!

Did a quick video on removing the exhaust studs from the coyote, did a quick fit before removing them to get a little more excitement in the garage

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdu2ob4Sy9k

[Christopher]

I am really enjoying reading and following your thread. I have been taking many notes thus far. My kit isn't ready until April and I am curious on your opinion so far on the Wilwood electric parking brake? I love the idea of a cleaner space between the two seats. I don't think I will be doing the ABS brakes, but those electric parking brake setup has my wheels turning. Specially since I already have ordered the Wilwood brakes along with double koni shocks and IRS.

[toadster]

I am really enjoying reading and following your thread. I have been taking many notes thus far. My kit isn't ready until April and I am curious on your opinion so far on the Wilwood electric parking brake? I love the idea of a cleaner space between the two seats. I don't think I will be doing the ABS brakes, but those electric parking brake setup has my wheels turning. Specially since I already have ordered the Wilwood brakes along with double koni shocks and IRS.

Thanks for the support! The Wilwood EPB is pricey but it’s amazing!
Less cables and extremely strong braking ! I think it’s 2400 ft lbs of brake pressure.
and you get to lose the parking brake handle

If you can stomach the cost it’s awesome!!!

[toadster]

slow progress, got the power steering pump and compressor installed, pretty straight forward stuff here - undo the serpentine belt, remove a few bolts, add a bracket, and replace belts

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note the KRC Power Steering KRC 25304000 Aluminium Flow Valve (6AN Male ID - 4) (https://amzn.to/3nlQJEt) as recommended by many on the forums
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Also, the compressor is simple as well- 3 long bolts, but the tricky part is getting that belt attached correctly!
The FFR instructions make you think there's a ton of space behind the crank pulley LOL, nope maybe the belts thickness is all you have!
It's an interesting process using zip ties, and rotating the engine, but it snapped in place!
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lastly I'm trying to do some pre-fit on the headers, may as well make sure the bolts are threading properly
mainly because nobody wants to be underneath the engine struggling with bolts more than need be!
I am using the Stage 8 (8914) 1.25" Thread Pitch Bolt Kit for Ford Coyote 5.0 (https://amzn.to/3FjDhqI) which should make it a one-and-done setup!

I can't fully thread the lower bolts on the stand (no clearance) so maybe will play a bit more once I get it on the engine hoist
I am digging the jet-hot coating though!
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[Tooth]

I'm loving this build. My order doesn't come in until July, but I've got my control pack ordered through Mike. I'm doing a coyote as well.

[toadster]

I'm loving this build. My order doesn't come in until July, but I've got my control pack ordered through Mike. I'm doing a coyote as well.

awesome! Hope it's helping, I post the good and the bad, so it's a journey!

I hope to get my Coyote ECU kit someday!!

[Railroad]

A tip on the jet hot coating. I have read about and seen the coating frost from initial start up heat. The Coyote seems to start clean and idle well on first start. I would consider doing some short idle sessions to cure the coating before a long run. Great job on the build.

[toadster]

A tip on the jet hot coating. I have read about and seen the coating frost from initial start up heat. The Coyote seems to start clean and idle well on first start. I would consider doing some short idle sessions to cure the coating before a long run. Great job on the build.

yes, i'm curious how it will hold up since they didn't tumble polish them due to the exposed catalytics... they've cured in the bag for sure :) LOL

[Kiwistrada]

Toadster, this is a great build to follow!
Love the fact that its "all" included.... keeps us all grounded knowing others have the same ups and downs along the way.
You're making great progress and incorporating a lot of great additions along the way. Like many, I look forward to your frequent updates!
Thanks for sharing!!

[460.465USMC]

Thanks, Todd, for the links for the reduced power steering flow valve, and the header bolts. Bookmarked in case I need them.

[Ted G]

I am really enjoying reading and following your thread. I have been taking many notes thus far. My kit isn't ready until April and I am curious on your opinion so far on the Wilwood electric parking brake? I love the idea of a cleaner space between the two seats. I don't think I will be doing the ABS brakes, but those electric parking brake setup has my wheels turning. Specially since I already have ordered the Wilwood brakes along with double koni shocks and IRS.

Hey Christopher, I bet our delivery will be on the same truck! Mine is complete mid March, but probably won't ship till April. You are also fairly close as I am in El Dorado Hills.

[toadster]

a month later and zero response from FFR or FedEx on replacing the broken A/C condenser... unbelievable.
so - back at things, while I wait.. and maybe never get resolution!?

finished up the footbox vent choke cable (https://amzn.to/3D38IUz) setup, used some angle aluminum to make some mounts, the cables are about $11/ea.
237 Rotary Universal Push Pull Choke Cable 63" Inner 60" Conduit (2-3/4" Travel) (https://amzn.to/3o0cwlj)

spray-painted black and riveted to the 2" square tube, about 1.25" off the side wall
the driver side is about 2.5' long due to the vertical mount, the passenger side is about 8" long - love that I was able to sink that gate into the little cubby in the roof of the passenger footbox

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started to play around with the A/C knob controls... really bummed that every direction online shows black knobs yet,
I somehow got silver anodized ones - VintageAir doesn't sell the black anodized knobs by themselves - so I need to figure out something as I think the silver will clash on the dash

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I won't be using the FFR supplied plate, but trying to get an idea for spacing on the dash

lastly, my son and I measured several times, and cut out the hole for the A/C - Heater setup in the FFMetal Firewall Forward, still going to be extremely tight and really wishing the Coyote was in the bay to see clearances
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given the dimensions here, most likely the glovebox will need to be shortened... still have to test out some more 3d printed parts for the A/C unit to see if we can develop some 90 degree outlets

[Ted G]

Glad to see your back in the garage! Good to see you this weekend to at C&C

[ydousurf]

Hey Todd, looking good on the AC install. But man, that looks like it extends quite far into the engine bay? I think with the fan, you're going to have to shrink the glove box some more? I know I'll have to do that with mine, to like 1" in depth or maybe less - YIKES! That's cool you have the 3d printer and I hope you create a optimal solution that work for you situation. Anyway, just following along... Keep up the great work! And enjoy the precious time with your son helping you build your Roadster. You're pretty lucky!

[toadster]

Hey Todd, looking good on the AC install. But man, that looks like it extends quite far into the engine bay? I think with the fan, you're going to have to shrink the glove box some more? I know I'll have to do that with mine, to like 1" in depth or maybe less - YIKES! That's cool you have the 3d printer and I hope you create a optimal solution that work for you situation. Anyway, just following along... Keep up the great work! And enjoy the precious time with your son helping you build your Roadster. You're pretty lucky!

Thanks DJ. Yes, after we measured multiple times we realize that things are going to be extremely tight. Honestly I'm a bit concerned about HOW tight that fan will be up against the Coyote. I know the Coyote is a shorter block front-to-rear than other engines but it still seems quite daunting right now. Surely we will have to fit everything and pull the A/C unit before dropping the engine in. I just hope it clears! Oh the excess trouble I create for myself!

Yes it's been great having my son around for the build! He's awesome at crawling all over the car for hard to get to spots :)

[Fman]

Todd, that is quality time with your son really cool to see him working on the car with you. BTW, I picked up one of these headlamps and they are really nice for a bargain price if you need a little more light. My shop lighting is mediocre at best along with my aging eyes so I am always trying to get more light. Looking forward soon to seeing the Coyote land in its new home!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R5V5TZZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

[toadster]

Todd, that is quality time with your son really cool to see him working on the car with you. BTW, I picked up one of these headlamps and they are really nice for a bargain price if you need a little more light. My shop lighting is mediocre at best along with my aging eyes so I am always trying to get more light. Looking forward soon to seeing the Coyote land in its new home!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R5V5TZZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

OMG that is so nerdy - I HAVE TO HAVE IT! :) thanks Travis for the find!

[toadster]

the dash is better aligned now, thanks to many - I believe i have it fit for end-result setup
this has been nerve racking since Carbon Fiber has zero wiggle room for error, you can't cover up a mistake like a metal dash with a leather/vinyl cover - what you drill is what you get

the initial setup from the FFR template with the RT Turn Signal puts the dash way too high as you can see in the pics, it's about .5" too high and

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you can notice the gap above the dash hoop

I mounted the RT Turn Signal plate "UNDER" the steering column which saved me about 1/4" of space in height, this left a gap under the Michael Everson RT plate
my son did some 3d printer work to get a shim fitted under the plate, hides the hole pretty well

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will be drilling a few more holes to finalize the layout in the center of the dash for wiper switch, and my billet buttons for horn, driving lights, hazard, and 3 switches for heat/ac (heat, fan speed & A/C on/off)
I'll most likely mount the headlight switch under the dash or off to the left of the steering column if it doesn't mess with the turn signal

[jamminj]

Hello Todd
How have you been
this is James
up here in paradise ca
Looks like your build is really coming along great
I like the carbon fiber dash
I'm a woodworker i may make my own veneer out of claro walnut haven't decided yet
still waiting on my kit scheduled for march so most likely I will see it beginning of April

[toadster]

Hello Todd
How have you been
this is James
up here in paradise ca
Looks like your build is really coming along great
I like the carbon fiber dash
I'm a woodworker i may make my own veneer out of claro walnut haven't decided yet
still waiting on my kit scheduled for march so most likely I will see it beginning of April

thanks James!

finally getting back at it! Sounds like your skills will be a great asset!
I have to say this carbon fiber dash is pretty daunting one little slip and poof it’s dead!
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I just need to find a good under dash mount for the headlights and I think I’ll pretty much be done

[460.465USMC]

I have to say this carbon fiber dash is pretty daunting one little slip and poof it’s dead!
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I just need to find a good under dash mount for the headlights and I think I’ll pretty much be done

Hi Todd. Congrats on your progress!

I think I can commiserate with you on the can't be careful enough sentiment on your dash. Mine is powder coated: my approach was measure five times, then measure again. Then stare at it and think about it "one last time" before drilling/cutting. The more progress I made the greater the consequence of a screwup: result=start over from scratch. But, I eventually finished it in world record time (longest time to complete a dash!). Now I'm working through testing all of the circuits (no smoke yet!), and dressing in all of the wires. Looking forward to seeing your next update.

[toadster]

Not a huge update but got the dash finally drilled
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also wire dieted the Wilwood parking brake - lots of spare 16 and 12 wire now :cool:
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[Fman]

Looking good! Keep at it... won't be long before the Coyote lands.:cool:

[toadster]

had a little bit of time last night to drill out the elephant ears for the vent tubes...

used a couple Spectre Performance 8791 3" ID 90 Degree Boots (https://amzn.to/32Y2vxr) to angle the hoses up and away from the headers, these mate up with the blowers (https://amzn.to/3HvscnQ) and the blast gates (https://amzn.to/3oru7Cx)
went larger than the 3" hose to give a little wiggle room, used a 3 3/4 hole saw (https://amzn.to/35PwcSp) and fitted some trim protector (https://amzn.to/32WZr4y) around the hole openings to keep from cutting the hoses

looks much better now that these are tucked out of the way...

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drilled out one more hole in the dash for the light switch, only 2 more holes left for the dash - waiting on my grab handle to arrive...

still waiting on the ECU for the coyote, it's been since October!

[Ted G]

Looking good! Can't wait to see the dash in person as I did the carbon fiber too.

[ydousurf]

Yeah Todd, looks good! I still need to order my fan units. Any plans to wrap the hoses above the headers with some additional insulation? I'm thinking I'll do it in that area only. Anyway, keep at it, you're getting closer to the **********. :cool:

[toadster]

Yeah Todd, looks good! I still need to order my fan units. Any plans to wrap the hoses above the headers with some additional insulation? I'm thinking I'll do it in that area only. Anyway, keep at it, you're getting closer to the **********. :cool:

I'll probably leave the hoses for the moment, they're like the original design with 2 layers wrapped around the coil
I also have JetHot coated headers and it's a Coyote so temps should be much less than a regular 427 setup... https://www.facebook.com/JetHotUSA/videos/jet-hot-high-performance-coatings/555729431503705/
if I get the notion, I can always wrap later...

[toadster]

my son and I worked about 5 hours on the car today, doesn't seem like much was done - but really digging into the wiring now...

since the lightswitch has a keyed hole, I decided to mount the sheetmetal to the back of the CF dash to keep it aligned and not tear into the CF
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also mounted the key switch up under the dash -we'll be using the keyless start but opted to keep the cylinder intact for another safety measure to have/remove a key if needed

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we also got to re-use the 'other' fuse panel mount to prep for the 2nd fuse block, going to use the Blue Sea Systems ST Blade ATO/ATC Fuse Block (https://amzn.to/3otzQrp)
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then the fun stuff - we pre-assembled the dash and started working the connection points - let me tell you, when you add the heat/ac unit you get extra looms involved so it's going to be a challenge for sure
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fortunately the wiring diagrams are pretty good
will spend a few days I'm sure getting things like the RT turn signal and IDIDIT relay integrated - also will have a good amount of spade connector usage so the dash can be removable if needed for any reason

[Fman]

had a little bit of time last night to drill out the elephant ears for the vent tubes...

used a couple Spectre Performance 8791 3" ID 90 Degree Boots (https://amzn.to/32Y2vxr) to angle the hoses up and away from the headers, these mate up with the blowers (https://amzn.to/3HvscnQ) and the blast gates (https://amzn.to/3oru7Cx)
went larger than the 3" hose to give a little wiggle room, used a 3 3/4 hole saw (https://amzn.to/35PwcSp) and fitted some trim protector (https://amzn.to/32WZr4y) around the hole openings to keep from cutting the hoses

looks much better now that these are tucked out of the way...

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drilled out one more hole in the dash for the light switch, only 2 more holes left for the dash - waiting on my grab handle to arrive...

still waiting on the ECU for the coyote, it's been since October!

I cant believe the ECU is still unavailable, have you thought about sourcing from a donor at a dismantler? I also hope your footbox vents work much better than mine did, after disconnect the hose from the waste gate and leaving it open I did have some nice heat blowing on me today so in the end I have a poor mans heater now. :D I re-directed the open tubes to just blow more air into the engine compartment.

Nice work on everything, really starting to come together.

[toadster]

I cant believe the ECU is still unavailable, have you thought about sourcing from a donor at a dismantler? I also hope your footbox vents work much better than mine did, after disconnect the hose from the waste gate and leaving it open I did have some nice heat blowing on me today so in the end I have a poor mans heater now. :D I re-directed the open tubes to just blow more air into the engine compartment.

Nice work on everything, really starting to come together.


its the whole ECU kit with coyote pedal, etc. one of his customers ordered in April and received it in late November :(
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it’s paid for already, just at the whims of the supply chain now

anyone use the “optional” hot start wire on the speedhut speedometer? It’s the red/black wire. Instructions say optional, but No idea where that one connects to…

[JohnK]

That's a bummer that the ECU is still backordered, though not surprising with the global chip shortage. The build looks like it's coming along nicely though!

The optional hot start wire is to keep the GPS circuit powered. You want to wire it to the coyote HAAT (hot at all times) wire. This will allow the GPS to acquire satellites within a few seconds instead of having to go through the whole boot up sequence.

[toadster]

That's a bummer that the ECU is still backordered, though not surprising with the global chip shortage. The build looks like it's coming along nicely though!

The optional hot start wire is to keep the GPS circuit powered. You want to wire it to the coyote HAAT (hot at all times) wire. This will allow the GPS to acquire satellites within a few seconds instead of having to go through the whole boot up sequence.

thank you!! I don’t have that part yet so we’re trying to alight the stars between 3-4 wire looms!

[JohnK]

Also should have mentioned that besides running the HAAT wire to the speedo hot start wire, you'll also want to run it to the clock power wire so the clock is powered at all times.

[facultyofmusic]

slow progress, got the power steering pump and compressor installed, pretty straight forward stuff here - undo the serpentine belt, remove a few bolts, add a bracket, and replace belts

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note the KRC Power Steering KRC 25304000 Aluminium Flow Valve (6AN Male ID - 4) (https://amzn.to/3nlQJEt) as recommended by many on the forums
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Also, the compressor is simple as well- 3 long bolts, but the tricky part is getting that belt attached correctly!
The FFR instructions make you think there's a ton of space behind the crank pulley LOL, nope maybe the belts thickness is all you have!
It's an interesting process using zip ties, and rotating the engine, but it snapped in place!
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lastly I'm trying to do some pre-fit on the headers, may as well make sure the bolts are threading properly
mainly because nobody wants to be underneath the engine struggling with bolts more than need be!
I am using the Stage 8 (8914) 1.25" Thread Pitch Bolt Kit for Ford Coyote 5.0 (https://amzn.to/3FjDhqI) which should make it a one-and-done setup!

I can't fully thread the lower bolts on the stand (no clearance) so maybe will play a bit more once I get it on the engine hoist
I am digging the jet-hot coating though!
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Toadster sir, I'm curious about those header bolts you got. Are those significantly better than FFR provided (more like GOING to provide cuz backorder) bolts? Wondering if you saw them recommended from some place. I want to drop my coyote in soon and I'm not gonna let a few bolts hold me up. :P

[toadster]

Toadster sir, I'm curious about those header bolts you got. Are those significantly better than FFR provided (more like GOING to provide cuz backorder) bolts? Wondering if you saw them recommended from some place. I want to drop my coyote in soon and I'm not gonna let a few bolts hold me up. :P

they lock in your header bolts, they won't back out at all... I figure I don't want to re-tighten the bolts so it's a one-and-done method - very high reviews on these parts

Stage 8 (8914) 1.25" Thread Pitch Bolt Kit for Ford Coyote 5.0 (https://amzn.to/3GM557x)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0zWDepXYhxY

[Joynt Venture]

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I followed the template exactly and the speedo just rubs on the hoop. The glove box is a close fit. You can see the exposure on the center of the hoop on mine. After I put the body on, it did show. So I am working on raising the dash and slightly losing some of the level of the dash. It's a balance, but will look better than having the bronze/gold frame slapping me in the face!

[facultyofmusic]

they lock in your header bolts, they won't back out at all... I figure I don't want to re-tighten the bolts so it's a one-and-done method - very high reviews on these parts

Stage 8 (8914) 1.25" Thread Pitch Bolt Kit for Ford Coyote 5.0 (https://amzn.to/3GM557x)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0zWDepXYhxY

Sweet! Ordered a set!

[toadster]

my wife and I took some much needed time off and went to the coast (Pacifica, CA) for 5 days last week - wonderful break!
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Took another jump into the wiring yesterday... i DID get notice that FFR shipped my last 3 parts for the AC/Heater setup...
still waiting on the ECU for the coyote :(

We got our 12v bench test setup, which is IMHO something everyone should have now that we've been using it!
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110V/220V to DC 12V 30A 360W Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply Transformer (https://amzn.to/3Hg2SkN) $25
- Input: 110V/220V AC; Output: DC 12V 30A max. Output voltage is adjustable 15%. Three output channels
- this supports up to 3 12V connections, we are only using 2 for now

CESS-083 Female Banana Jack to Spade Plug for Speaker Cable (Small Spade) (https://amzn.to/3BGopC2) $10
- these needed a trim on the spade plug to fit the terminals on the power supply but this is a great quick connect/disconnect for the alligators

Multimeter Banana Plug to Crocodile Alligator Clip Test Probe, 2PCS (https://amzn.to/3h79He3) $18 for 2 sets
- nice 3 foot cord gives you 'play room' when setting up tests

6ft 18 Gauge 3 Prong Heavy Duty Replacement Power Supply Cord (https://amzn.to/3LOIjzA) $15
- I'd suggest a power cord with a built in switch as there is no on/off for the power supply

we were previously using a benchtop 12v battery and it just doesn't have the 'oomph' to get the job done, so this plug in test unit is awesome!

Lots of line tracing, labelling and test connecting going on
I got the Dyno Rhino 5200 (https://amzn.to/3h4qO00) shrink tube labeler, IMHO this is critical to the setup - and will hopefully help with any future troubleshooting as well
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here's a quick 1:12 video on our quick test

https://youtu.be/cm1F9Rv2rq8

[JohnK]

What a wonderful getaway! Looks like you managed to find a day that Pacifica wasn't absolutely socked in with fog - pretty rare out there.

That's a nice setup for power testing. I have a Power Probe, which also does a great job but is quite a bit pricier and maxes out at 10 or 15A (don't remember). I did pop the built-in resettable breaker a few times testing some of the higher-powered items.

[toadster]

What a wonderful getaway! Looks like you managed to find a day that Pacifica wasn't absolutely socked in with fog - pretty rare out there.

That's a nice setup for power testing. I have a Power Probe, which also does a great job but is quite a bit pricier and maxes out at 10 or 15A (don't remember). I did pop the built-in resettable breaker a few times testing some of the higher-powered items.

yeah, we were surprised - all 5 days it was clear! maybe a touch of fog before 9am, but otherwise warmer than here in the Sacramento area!

as for the power supply, I saw lots of reviews of this one for $25, and it seems to hold up pretty well, time will tell! :)

[toadster]

also worked on the used Tanget light setup that I purchased a while back
I have replacement light housing units and LED lights as the halogen setups don't cast much light, and they get pretty hot

The existing setup has a two-position switch, 1 toggle turns on the parking lights, and the other turns on the fog/driving lights
My design will most likely run the parking lights in conjunction with the turn signal running lights and use my driving light switch to just activate the driving lights themselves


https://youtu.be/xYhur0rJaZ4

here's the wiring diagram that I received with the kit just in case anyone wants/needs this
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[toadster]

some minor updates...

had to get some more blue loctite to set the horns before we drilled and set the front wiring harness

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my son and I have been running circles on the wiring for the radiator fan (believe that?) because with the A/C setup the Trinary switch AND the COYOTE ECU can decide when the fan turns on - so we've done a lot of prep on the wiring, I think we're ready - but just need the dang ECU to arrive - we ordered it last APRIL!!!

thanks @edwardb for your guidance!!

so I continued on other mods...

since the engine bay is going to be insanely tight with the A/C setup, I decided to remove the CMCV valves off the back of the coyote
as you can see, those snails on the back of the intake are there for your average Coyote vehicle, Mustang, F-150, etc... for the Cobra, with a tune (that is required anyways) - these won't be needed (or missed)
they take up a tremendous amount of space on the back of the motor ~ 5 inches by measurement

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I got a CMCV lockout ki (https://amzn.to/3BXEraU)t on ebay for about $15 to set the runners open all the time
there were about 6 t-20 torx screws to remove and 2 circlips - then you attach the billet lockout spacer, just attach with 2 of the screws you removed...
the circlip side wasn't shallow enough to re-attach the circlips but I don't see these moving whatsoever due to the sturdiness of the billet parts fitting perfectly...

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some much needed space is now freed up!

[John Ibele]

Toadster ... nice space-saver and engine bay beautifier all in one. Good to see you finding ways to make progress without the ECU!

[Canyonblue]

What's the difference between the -50A controller vs the -50B?

isn't A for an auto and B for a manual?

[toadster]

What's the difference between the -50A controller vs the -50B?

isn't A for an auto and B for a manual?

A is for Gen1/2 coyote and B is for Gen3

[Canyonblue]

Ahhh...thanks.

Maybe I should consider ordering the ECU now and the engine later!

[toadster]

last week was a brutal work week, not much done on the car - trying to tidy up things and remembered I had to wire the LED converter into the harness...

many see this as a simple add-on to the harness, by my son and I really struggled with the premise to be honest...
this thread was awesome! https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?38666-Question-about-LED-converter-for-tail-lights-Update-LED-lights-are-all-sorted-THANKS

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I left a door in the trunk for access to the fuel pump and it's where the wiring loom splits for the rear lights
long story short - when you use the LED converter the PURPLE wire is not needed for the rear lights

I also am adding a 3rd brake light so I wired an extra feed into the purple/red brake feed (before the converter)

with a mistaken cut of the purple wires - I had to bond 6 wires together to make this setup work, ended up using a large heat shrink with a solder joint - fingers crossed it feels pretty solid!

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I know - fun pics of wires! LOL
it's all part of the process...

the nice thing is that we will tuck all this right below the trunk area and ensure things are watertight with all the shrink tubing - I'll be pre-testing the connections from the harness in the front before buttoning this all up.

[460.465USMC]

Hey Todd. Glad you remembered the converter in plenty of time! I can’t explain it, but I pondered the wiring for the converter WAY too long. Is it because I joined the 50s club last year? I can’t afford to lose any more brain cells.

Good progress on your wiring.

[toadster]

Hey Todd. Glad you remembered the converter in plenty of time! I can’t explain it, but I pondered the wiring for the converter WAY too long. Is it because I joined the 50s club last year? I can’t afford to lose any more brain cells.

Good progress on your wiring.


Thanks Chris! I'm in the same boat, brain cells fading LOL
Now I'm struggling on how to test without the full car being battery connected!

[Windsor]

Thanks Chris! I'm in the same boat, brain cells fading LOL
Now I'm struggling on how to test without the full car being battery connected!

Pull the fuse and inject power through the downstream pin in the fuse slot.

(Be sure to fuse your power supply just in case you find a wiring foopah the fun way)

[toadster]

starting to make things look like they're progressing, lots of time into wiring but wanted to get the cubby finished up so we can get the cockpit finished up

since I'm putting in some audio, we had to find a spot to run all the wiring
for comfort lights I'll be mounting up 4 LED strips (https://amzn.to/3CYhoNH), one in the trunk and one in the cubby (and 1 each in the footwells) and will chase that along with the audio/power cables through a 3/4" grommet
also wired in a flasher for the 3rd brake light (https://amzn.to/3tprl3C) - they're cheap for $15, but I think will add a bit more notice to the brake light
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I realized that the RCA cable I had was about 20 ft long, which is about 14 feet too long! so ordered a new 6ft one (https://amzn.to/3wjt5xe)with some more split wire loom (https://amzn.to/3ilcxfZ) to run down the center of the car from the cubby
Next was to get some carpet in the cubby, nothing special but it's our first set of carpet cuts and holy cow is it messy! I swear we will find carpet fuzz for the next 3 years, and we just started!
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since the build deviates from the norm - we used some of the trunk carpet included in the kit to cover the cubby and the back of the cubby wall
I ordered more black 20oz carpet from Bass Boat Seats (https://www.bassboatseats.com/products/deckmate-20oz-bass-boat-carpet?variant=540868009) which has been highly recommended on this site, we'll likely use the FFR carpet as a template for the new carpet

the 3M Super90 glue is amazing, literally spray on the carpet, and on the panel - let it tack up and bam it's set!
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just have a few more wires to test in the rear of the car and the trunk and cubby will be done, then we can finalize the cockpit metal

still waiting on my ECU :(

[toadster]

finally tested out the tail lights, had to provide power to the fusebox to get it to work correctly!
without power the rear lights will not light from the yellow/white wires at either side from the brake pedal, but that purple wire works every time (the one that is not used!)

had a bit of fun when the key was turned too far and the fuel pump kicked in for a few seconds

tidied up the cubby wiring and now we're ready to seal it up and mount the cockpit wall (finally!)
164314

[toadster]

Good news ECU is finally shipped!
also ended up ordering a set of GASn Touring pipes...

time to sell my FFR polished sidepipes!

[Ted G]

Good news ECU is finally shipped!
also ended up ordering a set of GASn Touring pipes...

time to sell my FFR polished sidepipes!

Congrats on getting the ECU shipped..... dang that took long. How long did George say the sidepipes would be? I ordered mine in November and still don't have them. Just got the headers last week.

[toadster]

Congrats on getting the ECU shipped..... dang that took long. How long did George say the sidepipes would be? I ordered mine in November and still don't have them. Just got the headers last week.

Thanks Ted! Georgie said it's about 10-12 weeks out due to stainless availability and pricing, but he sent a quick video - dang they look gorgeous!


https://youtu.be/liotj2CXf3Y

[toadster]

travelled last week, first time in 2 years for work!

got the rear wiring completed, may need to run 1 more line for reverse lights but not a big deal

also finished carpeting the trunk!

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for some reason the last pic looks gray, but it's black 20oz bassboat carpet

[toadster]

also wired up the Breeze quick-disconnect harness for the rear lights tonight :)

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[Joynt Venture]

I got the Gas-N pipes mounted just before I left Florida. They are works of art! Now I need to let the world thaw a bit before I can get it out of the trailer and back into the garage here in Wisconsin.

[Joynt Venture]

Have you drilled the trunk for the license light wiring yet? I started to drill to on the right (PS) side of the lid near the hinge mount. I'm in about a quarter inch and haven't gotten through the aluminum yet. I stopped there.

[toadster]

Have you drilled the trunk for the license light wiring yet? I started to drill to on the right (PS) side of the lid near the hinge mount. I'm in about a quarter inch and haven't gotten through the aluminum yet. I stopped there.

originally I had the license plate wiring in the trunk floor, but decided to move it where Papa did his - keeps the floor open and less 'stuff' to hang up on in that tiny space!

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[Joynt Venture]

originally I had the license plate wiring in the trunk floor, but decided to move it where Papa did his - keeps the floor open and less 'stuff' to hang up on in that tiny space!

165157

I'm referring to the trunk lid itself. Where will you run these wires to then connect to the license bracket?

[toadster]

I'm referring to the trunk lid itself. Where will you run these wires to then connect to the license bracket?

oh - the trunk (and body) is at the painters, I think many go the route of Papa and edwardb by running it up the passenger trunk mount
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?24916-Papa-s-MKIV-Roadster-Build-9115-(Post-Grad)-Inglese-8-Stack-is-Here!&p=331147&viewfull=1#post331147

[facultyofmusic]

travelled last week, first time in 2 years for work!

got the rear wiring completed, may need to run 1 more line for reverse lights but not a big deal

also finished carpeting the trunk!

164989 164990 164991

for some reason the last pic looks gray, but it's black 20oz bassboat carpet

Loving the little hinge. Gonna borrow your idea. ;)

[Joynt Venture]

oh - the trunk (and body) is at the painters, I think many go the route of Papa and edwardb by running it up the passenger trunk mount
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?24916-Papa-s-MKIV-Roadster-Build-9115-(Post-Grad)-Inglese-8-Stack-is-Here!&p=331147&viewfull=1#post331147

I see in the pic that he is further toward the outside edge than I am. Thanks for the tag !

[toadster]

I was a happy camper today! my Coyote ECU FINALLY ARRIVED! Ordered April 2021, Coyote arrived October 2021, ECU delivered April 2022! yikes!

I got things unboxed and started on some simple (ha!) things tonight!

Simplest thing to do was the mass air flow meter :)
labelled the collar to make sure it's installed properly, it's a real shame that they ship the whole intake with air filter and the only part used is the MAF!
165770

next up was the coyote gas pedal - I thought, some trimming, flipping and 2 screws should be done in 20 minutes... NOPE!

followed the 'instructions' and quickly realized that they're a bit lacking...
cut off the right mount, flip and trim the pedal - that's pretty straight forward

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I mounted the coyote pedal 'mount' a LONG time ago, and it's been waiting for this part!
The pedal is IMPOSSIBLE to mount from below, it conflicts with the steering shaft and the pedal box - so I had to do some disassembly

un-cleco'ed the inside driver footbox, and loosened the Russ Thompson turn signal and removed the steering shaft - but the pedal STILL didn't fit - it's that tight!
obviously this would have been much easier had the pedal been here before the pedalbox and brakes were installed - but carry-on!

Once i got the hard parts out of the way - the pedal STILL wouldn't fit - so I had to remove more material
165775 165774
these weren't even the final pics of what had to be shaved, trimmed, etc. even the right side had to have nearly all the webbing removed to create enough space to get the 2 screws in place
sadly even the provided screws don't fit the Gen3 pedal with the metal brackets so I had to scrape up some 1/4x20 screws with locknuts

so what originally was going to be a 20 minute job, turned into 3 hours - but at least I have my 3rd pedal now! :)
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[Ted G]

I can't believe that took a year! Holy Moly! I was hoping to catch up with you on the build.... lol

[toadster]

another update - I've been working on 'things' while waiting for the ECU...

one thing to note, when you get all the inventory - some items may be blended across multiple packages - case in point, the gauges come with sensors, but not the mounting parts to affix them to an engine...
FFR does a pretty good job when itemizing things, and I was going crazy trying to find adapters to mount sensors - case in point the water temp sender, FFR provides a 'stepped' method for the sensors

I was fortunate enough to find Al_C's thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?25194-Coyote-Water-Temp-Sender-did-they-change-the-size

I opted to order a 3/4" to 1/8" NPT adapter (https://amzn.to/3xu9lrs)to mitigate binding multiple adapters together to make this fit - simple $10 tweak

in the pic below, the upper part is the 3/4" to 1/2" adapter - the 1/2" to 1/8" adapter was missing in my parts
the middle is the new 3/4" to 1/8" NPT adapter
the bottom is the original plug from the coyote engine
165784

you can see the installed part in the block below, it's a tiny space saver in comparison to the FFR model
-pic using my new adapter, saves about an inch of space
165785

FFR model (if you have the parts)
165786

I also have been struggling to figure out how to install the oil sender
After several emails with FFR we realized that my parts list did NOT include parts 16903,16904 and 16905 which make up the oil sender connections - so waiting on them to ship out
this could be that I've had the kit now for 2 years, and the Gen3 configs had not been fully dialed in back then...

definitely a lot more to do, but progressing daily!

[460.465USMC]

I got things unboxed and started on some simple (ha!) things tonight!....next up was the coyote gas pedal - I thought, some trimming, flipping and 2 screws should be done in 20 minutes... NOPE!

...followed the 'instructions' and quickly realized that they're a bit lacking...

so what originally was going to be a 20 minute job, turned into 3 hours - but at least I have my 3rd pedal now! :)


Great to hear your ECU package arrived! I hear you on the Coyote pedal fitment. Even though I had all of the parts up front, I still spent many hours (too embarrassing to say the number publicly) until I was happy with how it fit.

[johnpinetree]

Hey Toadster, you've been crushing! My mind/heart/garage are finally starting to thaw so I'm picking my build back up. Had a question for you on the 90* thermostat housing mod to avoid ABS interference. Do you have a picture or a post you can point me to? I saw you mentioned Mike Craven's advice but I'm instagram averse.

Again, looking great!

[toadster]

Hey Toadster, you've been crushing! My mind/heart/garage are finally starting to thaw so I'm picking my build back up. Had a question for you on the 90* thermostat housing mod to avoid ABS interference. Do you have a picture or a post you can point me to? I saw you mentioned Mike Craven's advice but I'm instagram averse.

Again, looking great!



Thanks John! The part we used is ATI AB018A-052 2015+ Mustang GT H.O. Thermostat Housing (https://shop.brutespeed.com/ATI-AB018A-052-2015-Mustang-GT-HO-Thermostat-Housing-ATI-AB018A-052.htm) (Can be used on the 2015-17 as well as the 2018+ Coyote)
It's not cheap at $116, but will fit the bill for mounting the hose in the space that the ABS HCU takes up!

168477

[toadster]

small update - it's been a crazy few months of travel and life...

finally got the rear buttoned up by riveting the rear cockpit wall, and planning on laying out the ThermoTec and get carpet installed

https://i.imgur.com/nr9FqNr.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/YfrSxNO.jpg


also, did the activated charcoal canister / sprinkler head setup for vapor collection; fun side project to keep the garage from stinking of gas

here's the parts list:

(1) Orbit 54346 4" 300 Series Spring-Loaded Pop-Up Sprinkler (https://amzn.to/3naL0QN) $3.99
(1) 3/8" Hose Barb x 1/2" NPT Male (https://amzn.to/3zWHQI0) $3.60
(2) 3/8''–5/8'' 304 Stainless Steel Worm Gear Hose Clamps (https://amzn.to/3yaWZnM) 80 cents for 2
(1) Kitchen Bathtub Sink Strainer (https://amzn.to/3ybIVu9) < $1
(1 bag) Activated Charcoal Carbon Pellets (https://amzn.to/3tYGB7p) ~$9
(1) #3 ACC Conduit Hanger (https://amzn.to/3A18Ber) $5
(30") Fuel Line 3/8" ID (https://amzn.to/3tVwksI) ~$3/ft

whole setup is about $30, granted you could probably get a charcoal cannister from the junkyard for the same (or cheaper)

simple enough setup, but thought I'd document for someone who hasn't see/found this yet

1. dissasemble the sprinkler head, you just want the hollow shell, and open on both ends for now
2. I re-used the bottom of my sprinkler valve since it had a metal breather at the bottom - keeps the pellets from coming out the bottom
3. take your new strainer and trim it just a bit larger than the screw top
168491
4. fill up the sprinkler head with the activated carbon granules, almost to the top depending on how your sink filter is shaped, mine is concave
5. put the strainer on top of the charcoal, and screw down the cap
168492
6. add the 1/2" MIP (hose) end to the sprinkler head, I used a little teflon tape, but probably overkill here
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Now you prep the body for install.
Since I have the Boyd Welding Gas Tank (https://cobradreams.com/2020/06/15/installing-the-boyd-welding-gas-tank/) my breather valve is on the passenger side, so I opted to route my breather hose up and into the rear tire well

Since my mount point was in the rear panel, but also occluded by the interior trunk panel, I used an M6 rivnut to mount the #3 ACC bracket
simple enough, and hopefully out of the way of everything
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slow progress is still progress - right?

[toadster]

a little more last night, 100+ outside, so I had the portable A/C cranking in the garage ;)

I'm sure not a new idea, but using the carpet pieces really helps to pre-cut your Thermo-Tec :)

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[toadster]

catching up a few more items...

buttoned up the inner driver/passenger boxes and lined with some Thermo-Tec, also added some insulation under the FFMetal transmission tunnel top (will finalize later)
168674 168675
although the garage is a mess, at least the car is taking shape ;)

also did other odds/ends to get ready to test fit the engine - simple things like Clutch safety switch, transmission mount prep, wire diet the Coyote ICP segment, and tied off the RF Harness Clutch switch wiring

168676168677

168678168679

question - is it a good idea to go ahead and order some transmission spacers now? or wait for fitment?
the setup is Coyote + Tremec TKX, and I believe it may need a spacer (or two) - anyone with recent knowlege?

[JohnK]

Nice progress! Most coyote setups I've seen require some amount of spacers. You could order the set of three spacers plus longer bolts from Mike Forte and that seems to work for some (most?) people. In my case, I needed more spacers than that, so ended up ordering a few more and had to get longer bolts than the ones Mike provided. Another approach is to do the initial fitment and setting of pinion angle with a bunch of washers and then once you have that established you can figure out exactly how many spacers and what length of bolts you need.

[Fman]

Todd mine took 3 forte spacers, not a Coyote but I would say go ahead and have them on hand more than likely will need some. Mike's are the easy button method, you could definitely make your own too if you wanted.

[toadster]

Thanks guys - I ordered 3 spacers from Forte, should be here this week
also went ahead and got the under-dash filler panel (http://www.replicaparts.com/under%20dash%20filler%20page.htm) from Mike Everson - it's nicely cut part, and I'm sure I'll have to modify, but it will really brace up the bottom of the dash, the CF dash is nice but so lightweight it feels a bit flimsy

started making progress on the coyote wiring harness... it's crazy how much wiring is part of the modernized setup

168901

one reminder, NEVER trust the FFR instructions...

maybe the older coyote PDB cable had a 2" grommet, but the newer one has a 1.5" grommet - how did I find out? trusted the instructions :rolleyes:

168900 168899

it's not OCD perfect, but at least it's sealed up and hopefully hidden away
trying to figure out next steps to make room to test fit the engine, garage is feeling a bit cramped right now...

[460.465USMC]

Nice progress, Todd. I almost got bit by that one too. I recently downloaded the newest Coyote fitment instructions (Rev 1F), but it still calls for a 2.0" hole. I put a warning in my build thread as well, so hopefully between the two of us we can save someone else the headache.

[Fman]

Nice save Todd on the grommet, nobody will ever see that once the body is on. I always called the FFR manual the 50% book, gets you 50% there and is 50% correct most of time ;)

[toadster]

got caught up on a few things yesterday...

ran the ECU harness into the dash, connected the fuel pump wire and attached the OBD port, also mocked up the fuse box in the engine bay - it looks like it will clear the A/C unit

169234 169235 169237 169238

next up was trimming the under dash panel from replica parts (http://replicaparts.com/under%20dash%20filler%20page.htm) - the newer panel doesn't look anything like the one on the website
also, I found another thread (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?32613-Dash-position-with-Replica-Parts-under-dash-support-panel&highlight=dash+panel)that talks about the newer MKIV steering mount is much higher/bulkier that previous models - so the driver side sits too high, I may trim it off, or mount some spacers and rivet/screw into place

169244

a little extra trimming needed around where I placed the inertia switch and wilwood EPB setup
lots of cleanup work to do so smooth the edges and put some protective trim around the access holes
also, still have to trim the center portion of the under-tray to fit the drop down for the CF dash and provide some access for the center console (coming)
169240 169243 169242

[Ted G]

Looks great and good to see you guys yesterday!

[toadster]

Looks great and good to see you guys yesterday!

Thanks Ted! Agreed! Was great to see your build in action, LOVE that blue! Keep pluggin away! You're rockin fast!

[toadster]

small progress...

sorry Michael, had to obliterate the under-dash mount to fit the CF dash and the newer MKIV steering mount
but now it's at least rivnut'ed (is that a word?) and I put some edge protection in areas that a hand may traverse...

still have to do a few more drill points to rivet it in place, but that's the easy part...

169289 169290


will have to notch a bit more due to the grab handle mount, similar to this design (https://www.ffcars.com/threads/passanger-grab-handle.561905/) - looks simple enough and strong enough

169288

We cut 4 angle pieces tonight, and my brilliant mind decided to try to pick one of the pieces 30 seconds later.. I haven't felt metal 'stick' to skin in a while - pretty much my first snake-bite LOL ouch! that's enough for tonight!

[John Ibele]

Good updates Todd, you're chugging along. Good call on the grab bar and the reinforcement for it. Wish I'd have made mine larger, but even so, should help passengers when they're trying to figure out how the heck to sit down. And the reinforcement makes the dash super solid on the PS side.

[facultyofmusic]

I'm interested in seeing your final design for the bar. The picture you showed above seems a little flimsy to me, as I've been working with steel strips of a similar size for various things on my build and they were a lot more bendy than I thought. I'd like to be proven wrong though.

[Fman]

One recommendation on the grab bar, have a thick backing plate behind the dash (1/8") this will really help secure the bar and give it a good foundation to tighten it up.

[Ted G]

I just added two 1/8" thick aluminum braces that are about 2" wide for my braces. Really strengthens the grab bar and the dash.

[toadster]

I'm interested in seeing your final design for the bar. The picture you showed above seems a little flimsy to me, as I've been working with steel strips of a similar size for various things on my build and they were a lot more bendy than I thought. I'd like to be proven wrong though.

the 1/8" steel is really strong to be honest, the aluminum - not as much but works well for support (plus I already had the aluminum angle on hand)

here are some pics of the parts making up the grab bar brace/brackets
it's a mix of aluminum angle and steel bar both are 1/8" thickness, is this was all 100% 1/8" steel it would feel pretty indestructible IMHO

169389 169390

these parts are currently drying from paint, so final pics are pending - but you can see the 90-degree angles mount into the 2" bar under the dash
the bottom is secured with 5-16"-18 rivnuts and stainless bolts and the adjoining right angles are 10-24 stainless bolts with locknuts, I think along with the under-dash tray this will be pretty solid

still have to administer a few notches in the under-tray to align with the supports - but this part is pretty much done!

[Zach Bohn]

I like your grab handle support design!

[toadster]

I like your grab handle support design!

Thanks - It turned out pretty awesome! My son initially thought it would be flimsy, but I feel that the average person could grab it and think it was part of the frame

We spend the best part of the weekend getting the dash mounts setup both the under dash mount as well as some L-brackets to use some ALFA-LOK Velcro
It's insane the amount of time that we spend on stuff that nobody will see, but I guess that's what makes it a unique build! :)

aligning the rivnuts in the dash under-tray was tedious, CF is unforgiving so we opted to route out the holes a bit for the 10-24 screws and added washers for added protection against the carbon fiber
We trimmed the tray even MORE because the grab-handle support angles were pretty invasive - the passenger side we removed, and left a tab for a support bracket, and the driver side we carved back pretty decently to clear the bar.

also notched the center of the tray since I'll be creating a center console under the center of the dash, plus we needed room for the controls behind there as to not interfere with the tray.
you may notice, we even riveted the ends of the trim under here to make sure those parts never come off the under-tray
169525

the next step - which took an inordinate amount of time was to cut 4 1" L-brackets for the ALFA-LOK, the cuts took 5 minutes, but aligning the drill marks, drilling upside down, fidgeting with clecos and finally riveting in took what seemed like 3 hours!
the furthest mount on the right (passenger side) was tricky because there's a gnarly weld at that corner, and didn't want to grind that away so we had to shim the mount to clear the weld

the ALFA-LOK Velcro (https://amzn.to/3OgBhDQ) is VERY strong both from the sticky side as well as the velcro side - inexpensive and I don't have to drill more holes in my dash :) WIN!

169523 169524 169526

you can see the 4 mount points circled below, I'm hoping this is enough!
169522

once everything is screwed and riveted and velcro'ed in - this dash won't be going anywhere! overkill? probably...

next big step is to figure out how to test fit the engine/transmission - my A/C unit is the biggest fitment item that will most likely need MORE modification, but alas that's the story of this build! :)

Thanks for following along!

[toadster]

just a little epoxy work tonight for the A/C & heater switches
the switches that FFR ships with the coupe kit is setup for a single panel setup
169595

I separated all 3 switches from the single plate to make them fit into the CF dash, and epoxied them in place since the switches are keyed in certain directions
hopefully this will keep any movement from happening and the knobs and switch will stay put and not rotate freely

169597 169596

[460.465USMC]

We spend the best part of the weekend getting the dash mounts setup both the under dash mount as well as some L-brackets to use some ALFA-LOK Velcro
It's insane the amount of time that we spend on stuff that nobody will see, but I guess that's what makes it a unique build! :)

aligning the rivnuts in the dash under-tray was tedious
the next step - which took an inordinate amount of time was to cut 4 1" L-brackets for the ALFA-LOK, the cuts took 5 minutes, but aligning the drill marks, drilling upside down, fidgeting with clecos and finally riveting in took what seemed like 3 hours!
the furthest mount on the right (passenger side) was tricky because there's a gnarly weld at that corner, and didn't want to grind that away so we had to shim the mount to clear the weld

Hi Todd. I hear you on those under dash mounts! Wow! The degree of accuracy required is pretty high. If you're anything like me, it was a relief to get them installed. Nice idea on the velco. Looking good!

[toadster]

a little more progress between work trips... really trying to get the central wiring done in the transmission tunnel so we can drop in the engine/trans

finally moved the car onto the rollers to be able to move it around better - this was pretty exciting!

170423

did a quick assemble of the hood hinges, and finally riveted the driver inside footbox now that the coyote pedal is installed

170427 170426

next was to re-make the under dash faceplate - really bummed that the original got pretty mangled up

now that we have the dash height pretty much finalized - my son took some cardboard to get the perfect measurements
nip and tuck work for a while, and yes the dash is not totally squared up so it's not asymmetrical
170428

with a lot of patience and trimming we got the faceplate re-built and aligned with the dash - set back about 1/2 way between the face of the dash and the lower edge
then my son trimmed the FFMetal transmission tunnel top, and we re-placed on the tunnel - the front portion nearest the firewall will be riveted down

170429 170431 170430

here we have fitted the buttons, this took quite some time with hole saws, step bits, and dremel
170433

then trimmed out the center of the dash for the stereo faceplate - you can see old vs new below
170432

now the real fun comes into play - getting this all boxed in, as well as managing the tons of cabling that will fit in this little space - it's going to be claustrophobic in there! :)

[John Ibele]

slow progress is still progress - right?

I can verify this for you. :)

You’re going great, Todd. Console box looking really nice - I had a lot of fun with that part.

[JB in NOVA]

I can verify this for you. :)

You’re going great, Todd. Console box looking really nice - I had a lot of fun with that part.

Totally agree! I've really enjoyed following your build, Todd, and it's looking great. Now that I'm (almost) done with my build, I'm actually a bit jealous of those still building theirs. The "journey" truly was one of the most joyful parts of this process -- and there is no need to rush it.

[Jeff Kleiner]

...did a quick assemble of the hood hinges...
170427

[/QUOTE]

Todd,
Your hood hinges are assembled incorrectly (and interestingly, each is incorrect in different ways ;) )

Here's how the left should be:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=170629&d=1659797228

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=170630&d=1659797261

And here's the right:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=170631&d=1659797290

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=170632&d=1659797322

Better to find out now rather than when you're trying to install the hood :)

Cheers,
Jeff

170629
170630
170631
170632

[toadster]

...did a quick assemble of the hood hinges...
170427



Todd,
Your hood hinges are assembled incorrectly (and interestingly, each is incorrect in different ways ;) )
Better to find out now rather than when you're trying to install the hood :)

Cheers,
Jeff

170629
170630
170631
170632[/QUOTE]

Thanks Jeff! I did a loose assembly so that's an easy fix :)

LOVE this forum!!! Thanks for everyone's assistance!

[toadster]

I ordered the honeycomb mesh for the intake, everyone says it really helps with the coyote tune and drivability - I mean what's another $20 right?

170669
it's mounted about 1/4" from the intake side and about 2" away from the MAF sensor - hopefully this will help!

We did a little more (ok a LOT) more tedious work getting the lower dash section ready
We cut the floor of the center dash last week and it was time to get it solidly mounted to the floor of the transmission tunnel and also build some 90-degree mounts to use with rivnuts - unfortunately my rivnut head broke, so we have to finish the other 3 rivnuts on monday when the part is delivered

170671 170672


we did the faceplate last week and it turned out great, but the sides were 'lacking' so we rebuilt those as well
tons of nip/tuck work and finally got to a result that aligns well with the dash and also should be 99% completed until we cover it and get it finalized

170670 170673170674

with the dash mounted for fitting, we love it! set back just under the dash lip and will look awesome once it's wrapped, etc.

170676 170675

we also installed the side USB ports for charging and riveted the lower dash all together - two screws on both sides and the lower section will be removable!

[toadster]

yesterday was spend on heat-shielding in the engine compartment and starting to tackle more wiring...
I got the Breeze Zero Clearance Aluminum/Fiberglass/PSA (https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/zero-clearance-aluminum-fiberglass-psa-insulation/) stuff, I like the thinness of the material and should be yet another layer to keep the engine heat at bay

I used some Wiss Snips (https://amzn.to/3P78EcI) to cut, and only had some minor gumming up with the peel to stick adhesive, a squirt of WD40 cleans the snips up like new again

170750

looking at the wiring, it's just a LOT

RF Wiring Harness
Gen3 Coyote Harness
GT500 ABS HCU Harness
A/C - heater Harness
Wilwood EPB Harness
plus other things like Radio, Digital Guard Dawg Pushbutton Start, Fog Lights, and the whole dash wiring


Started with some cleanup behind the dash as it's getting a bit unwieldly prior to 'more' wiring additions
We used the Self Adhesive Black Cable Zip Tie Mounts (https://amzn.to/3QycSLD) which seem to be working well with the CF dash

added the speedhut button on the bottom of the dash just right of the steering column
170751

we also riveted the Ididit relay switch for the RT turn Signal, and started laying out wire paths behind the dash- not the prettiest setup by any means, we're going for functional chaos :)

170753 170754

[John Ibele]

Heat shielding ... I'm debating that, or just waiting to see if the hammer tone I slaved over in the engine compartment starts to turn brown near the headers. Neither one a huge win as far as appearance goes ... gotta just decide where you feel lucky sometimes :) Thanks for sharing the example, I'll mull over your option. Good progress and good updates, Toadster.

[Fman]

Looking awesome Todd, you won't regret doing everything possible to defend heat in your cockpit. Nice work on the center console, really coming together nicely. I can already see you and wife rocking out to some tunes while cruising around town!:cool:

[Ted G]

Looking great Todd. I too am in the middle of wiring.... not my favorite part of the car. I had to take a break and move to my fuel tank. Can't wait to see it completed!

[facultyofmusic]

Hey Todd, I did heat shielding on mine because the cat on the header generates a crap ton of heat. The cat is also a LOT closer to the foot well than I expected! I thought the cat would sit somewhere in the middle between the rear of the F panel and the foot well but it wasn't in the middle at all. I didn't know this when I wrapped my exhaust and added heat shielding, but in retrospect I'm very happy I did. Here are some pictures to illustrate the tightness:
170837 170838

[460.465USMC]

looking at the wiring, it's just a LOT

RF Wiring Harness
Gen3 Coyote Harness
GT500 ABS HCU Harness
A/C - heater Harness
Wilwood EPB Harness
plus other things like Radio, Digital Guard Dawg Pushbutton Start, Fog Lights, and the whole dash wiring


Wow, Todd! That is A LOT of wiring. I thought I had a lot, but your list contains several more items than my build. You have my admiration. Keep plugging away...you'll get there. I still remember the feeling of relief after I finished mine. It's a big part of the build, and even bigger with all of the cool add-ons.

[toadster]

Hey Todd, I did heat shielding on mine because the cat on the header generates a crap ton of heat. The cat is also a LOT closer to the foot well than I expected! I thought the cat would sit somewhere in the middle between the rear of the F panel and the foot well but it wasn't in the middle at all. I didn't know this when I wrapped my exhaust and added heat shielding, but in retrospect I'm very happy I did. Here are some pictures to illustrate the tightness:
170837 170838

yeah, hoping the jethot coating will help with that!!


Wow, Todd! That is A LOT of wiring. I thought I had a lot, but your list contains several more items than my build. You have my admiration. Keep plugging away...you'll get there. I still remember the feeling of relief after I finished mine. It's a big part of the build, and even bigger with all of the cool add-ons.

yeah, it's a HUGE bite of the elephant... a bit daunting to be honest, but will persist :)

[toadster]

slow progress lately due to 110+ temps and the local fires - garage is no fun at 95F and smoky :(

in an effort to get wiring cleaned up to test fit the motor the center console has proven to be a bit of a 2nd control zone for wiring, much (if not all) of this is due to adding 'stuff' to the build
the most notable items here are the touchscreen stereo, amplifier, and 6 control buttons: 2 for footbox fans, 2 for seat heaters, starter button and Wilwood EPB
also added a USB charger on both sides and last night we added the subwoofer gain knob

started the basic 'big' stuff on the back wall - namely the speaker amp, the ground worked out pretty well since it's directly into the 2x2 dash tube
172350

since we're trying to save any space possible, and we already pulled the subwoofer gain wire from the trunk - we 'optimized' the knob setup :) thankfully the 3/4" heat shrink worked out perfectly!
the heat shrink version on the left and the OEM cover on the right - worked out perfectly for the location under the amplifier on the driver side
172351

added the control button for the digital guard dawg keyless start next to the key mount
172353

did a test on the seat heater in the kitchen - wife wasn't home, safe test time!
172354

The seat heater kit from Cobra Valley is quite a complete kit - there's a LOT of wiring to meet many builder's needs
plans are laid out as such for the wiring

toggle buttons in lower dash, one each side driver/passenger
the power/ground wires pulled up from the center transmission tunnel up into the dash for termination
the rest of the wiring will go down either side inside the trans tunnel and route behind the seats (see TedG's pic below) for location
172355

the end of the night had us nearly ready to test the stereo setup before closing things up
believe it or not - there will be MORE wiring in there behind the touchscreen, but we're confident that things will be spaced out enough to get things landed
172356

[toadster]

spent a lot of today getting all the wiring completed for the radio, and tested out - sounds darn good IMHO
I know a radio isn't for everyone - but absolutely loving how this is turning out!


https://youtu.be/YjOdrKpIKNk

172618

also setup the footwell courtesy LEDs today and getting a lot more of the dash wiring dialed in...

[460.465USMC]

Todd, looking good. Sounding good. That turned out really nice.

Who will get the DJ responsibilities for music choice once you have it on the road? :p Your son looks like he's more than up to the job. :cool:

[Mark Eaton]

Nice, good radio with a monster subwoofer is TOTALLY worth it!

[toadster]

a little more progress tonight, starting to feel the crush of wiring behind the dash... mounted a false wall since I cannot attach directly to the firewall with my brake/clutch reservoirs mounted there
took some engineering and space planning to mount the keyless start, relay and ground/power bus bars

finally decided to rivet down the lower dash now that everything sub-dash is wired and working
173052

fabricated a false wall that attaches to the floor of the dash and supports a few electrical items, the 2nd pic shows the standoff wall and we have room to run wiring behind it as well
173053

173054

need to run another power line with a relay to the new fuse panel and we're getting pretty close to the next phase!

[edwardb]

Looks like the button on the inertia switch will be inaccessible with everything buttoned up. May want to reconsider that. I haven't had any of mine pop yet (that's a good thing...) but most put them where they can be easily reached if necessary.

[toadster]

Looks like the button on the inertia switch will be inaccessible with everything buttoned up. May want to reconsider that. I haven't had any of mine pop yet (that's a good thing...) but most put them where they can be easily reached if necessary.

it's just enough to get a finger up in there - we tested this! hopefully never needed :cool:

[toadster]

slow progress with travel and work - ran a 4GA wire lead from battery to the bus bar, and using some convolute to cover both the stereo and main feeds

I ordered these Battery Terminal Connectors, Multiple Battery Terminals, Quick Disconnect Quick Release Heavy Duty Car Marine Top Post Clamps, with Allen Wrench, Washers (https://amzn.to/3eK6JP2)
for $11 it gives a lot of connect points for +/- terminals without having to create a wiring hassle at the battery

173918


I also got the breeze automotive quick disconnect setup wired together for the headlights/turn signals
the heat-shrink/solder joints have been working pretty well in this scenario

I also ordered a set of AMBER 1157 LED Bulb - Dual Function 27 SMD LED Tower - 2 Pack (https://www.superbrightleds.com/1157-led-bulb-dual-function-27-smd-led-tower-bay15d-bulb+color-Amber+packamt-2-Pack) for $20, they have been recommended here by boat737 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?24250-LED-Light-amp-Signal-Bulbs&p=277113&viewfull=1#post277113)
pics don't do it much benefit but you can hopefully see the difference here...

here's the 27 SMD LED next to the regular 1157 white bulb, no covers, the right side almost reminds me of old flashlights we used to use :)
honestly the LED has me seeing spots... very bright!
173914 173915

here's a pic with the covers on - same bulbs, the LED is amazingly bright, and the incandescent is 'soft' on the eyes
173916

lastly, here are both signals with LEDs
the left is full power turn signal power
and the right is marker light brightness
173917

[facultyofmusic]

Kinda cool how you can almost see the LEDs through the lens. Looks like something out of Ironman.

[toadster]

Kinda cool how you can almost see the LEDs through the lens. Looks like something out of Ironman.

LOL yeah!!!

173921

[460.465USMC]

I also ordered a set of AMBER 1157 LED Bulb - Dual Function 27 SMD LED Tower - 2 Pack (https://www.superbrightleds.com/1157-led-bulb-dual-function-27-smd-led-tower-bay15d-bulb+color-Amber+packamt-2-Pack) for $20, they have been recommended here by boat737 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?24250-LED-Light-amp-Signal-Bulbs&p=277113&viewfull=1#post277113)
pics don't do it much benefit but you can hopefully see the difference here...

here's the 27 SMD LED next to the regular 1157 white bulb, no covers, the right side almost reminds me of old flashlights we used to use :)
honestly the LED has me seeing spots... very bright!


I couldn't agree more on the LED improvement. Nice! I did the same (from Watson Streetworks), because I want to be as visible as possible to other drivers given the small footprint and low profile of these Roadsters.

Not sure if you already checked, but I had to swap out my flashers for LED compatible flashers with a pigtail ground. Not a big deal at <$20, but mine wouldn't work correctly without them.

[John Ibele]

Good ideas, Todd. Wish I had had those battery clamps hooking up my Sniper stuff. I will be doing the LED upgrade.

[toadster]

I couldn't agree more on the LED improvement. Nice! I did the same (from Watson Streetworks), because I want to be as visible as possible to other drivers given the small footprint and low profile of these Roadsters.

Not sure if you already checked, but I had to swap out my flashers for LED compatible flashers with a pigtail ground. Not a big deal at <$20, but mine wouldn't work correctly without them.

my kit came with LED flashers for the rear taillights, so should be OK with the fronts - time will tell :)

[toadster]

more wiring! :)

had to reattach the HS CAN +/- 12V lines in the harness because we will use them for the ABS HCU

got to do some wire dieting on the O2 sensor wires, our harness had a 4-to-1 power distribution wire really high up the harness toward the plugs
We split that power feed way back and wrapped the right side (which is shorter) and we hope right hand means the passenger side!

Left the driver side unwrapped for now as we'll most likely have to extend the wires to the O2 harness later when the engine is in

174595 174596

also mounted the DGD GPS sensor, assuming this will be a safe place and not get in the way of anything around the windshield - correct?

174597

In reading I believe the C132 AAT isn't needed so we're going to cut at the Y joint and terminate, I do want a modern car, but I don't think in need an ambient air temp display telling me I'm getting sunburnt LOL
174598

also tidied up the ABS wiring
174605

[JohnK]

also mounted the DGD GPS sensor, assuming this will be a safe place and not get in the way of anything around the windshield - correct?

174597



Hey Todd, that area is going to get covered up by the rest of the DS footbox upper sheetmetal, so I don't think that GPS sensor will work in that position.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174604&d=1667795717

[facultyofmusic]

...also mounted the DGD GPS sensor, assuming this will be a safe place and not get in the way of anything around the windshield - correct?

174597

Hey Todd, looks like it won't get in the way of the windshield but I'm not sure if there's enough space under the footbox top aluminum panel for that GPS thing to fit. The aluminum panel has a cut-out for the windshield post and goes pretty far back. Would definitely recommend checking for clearance.

As for the O2 sensor, the manual from Ford actually says to not splice or do anything to the O2 sensor harness because it may affect the signal... haha I read that one after I did it too! :p

EDIT: Looks like John beat me to it!

[toadster]

Hey Todd, that area is going to get covered up by the rest of the DS footbox upper sheetmetal, so I don't think that GPS sensor will work in that position.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174604&d=1667795717


Hey Todd, looks like it won't get in the way of the windshield but I'm not sure if there's enough space under the footbox top aluminum panel for that GPS thing to fit. The aluminum panel has a cut-out for the windshield post and goes pretty far back. Would definitely recommend checking for clearance.

As for the O2 sensor, the manual from Ford actually says to not splice or do anything to the O2 sensor harness because it may affect the signal... haha I read that one after I did it too! :p

EDIT: Looks like John beat me to it!

awesome thanks guys! I have other spots to put it, hence the zipties :)
it's been SO long since I've seen that part LOL

also, the O2 sensor wires won't be modified, it's the wires that feed that O2 connection - that's not an issue THANKS!

[toadster]

minor work in the past day, but attached the fuel pressure regulator in the engine bay, and tidied up the flex fuel line to the footbox

174674

[Ted G]

Looks Good! I was going to wait till I get the motor installed just in case. But that is the same location as mine.... eventually.

[facultyofmusic]

minor work in the past day, but attached the fuel pressure regulator in the engine bay, and tidied up the flex fuel line to the footbox

174674

I wonder if that's going to be tough to see and work on. I know some folks like to set the fuel pressure and then replace the gauge with a plug since those pressure gauges may leak. Suppose one day you'll have to change out the return line for some reason; it will be tough to reach the bottom. However I've also seen others use about the same location.

Just a thought. Great job so far!

[toadster]

I wonder if that's going to be tough to see and work on. I know some folks like to set the fuel pressure and then replace the gauge with a plug since those pressure gauges may leak. Suppose one day you'll have to change out the return line for some reason; it will be tough to reach the bottom. However I've also seen others use about the same location.

Just a thought. Great job so far!

Thanks Dan! Yes, everything is going to be tough to work on in this car to be totally honest :) this was about the only spot left on the firewall without going lower... time will tell :)

Got to more wire dieting last night, finished up everything on the Coyote pre-install except for the 250A fuse

also installed the 2nd fuse panel, the top 6 fuses will be HAAT, and the bottom 6 will be keyed-on power
174929

we re-used the 2nd fuse panel mount that came with the kit to mount the Blue Sea fuse (https://amzn.to/3tp3AYP) panel
174854

put in a good ground for our ground bus bar, tricky spot, but it's bare metal ground
174855

While my son was soldering connections, I went ahead and aluminum tape sealed the footbox Zero Clearance heat reflection panels from Breeze (https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/zero-clearance-aluminum-fiberglass-psa-insulation/)
not as clean as I wanted it to look but it's keeping it functional and sealed the edges from the rough cuts

174857 174856

lastly, here's the fuse panel mounted under the steering wheel - still lots of wire to run to this! But I like the location, keeps everything in one area!
174858

[toadster]

setup the 250A for the Coyote ECU, space is at a premium for sure! the 24" power lead should reach the starter with no issue from here

174912

getting the center console disconnects done and laying out some thermotec to prep for running the heated seat wiring, keeping the Breeze seat mounts directly onto the floor

174913 174914

running more wires to the 2ndary fuse box and we added a relay to power the key-on power
174915

15 hours in this weekend on the car, doesn't look like much but dang we got a lot done!

[Ted G]

Looking good Todd. I was wondering if you set your Breeze seat racks yet. They look pretty square to the door side where mine are more angled to match the trans tunnel. I have pre-set mine so I can go-cart, but won't fully secure them until the body is painted and secured.

[toadster]

Looking good Todd. I was wondering if you set your Breeze seat racks yet. They look pretty square to the door side where mine are more angled to match the trans tunnel. I have pre-set mine so I can go-cart, but won't fully secure them until the body is painted and secured.

no not mounted at all, just set in place for sizing for the thermo-tec, still need to run the wires for the seat heaters and they'll run in the corner of the trans tunnel and floor

similar setup to this, just we're mounting the breeze seats directly onto the floor, no thermo-tec as per the directions
174933

[toadster]

minor updates, my son wire-dieted the Wilwood brake setup to get the lines to the correct length to the lower dash pod, I think altogether it was about 30 solder joints, and 16-20 quick disconnect wires
You don't realize it until you're in the middle of it all but wiring takes a long time!
174993174994

While he was occupied with wiring, I did the rivnuts and button-head screws in the driver footbox top panel
174995

at this point I think we only have the main power wire from the battery to run to the starter in the engine bay, all the Coyote pre-wire is done
We have to chase down a few more wires for the A/C-Heater setup but we're nearly ready to test fit the engine!!!

[460.465USMC]

Sounds like a fantastic weekend in the garage, Todd. I'm looking forward to hearing your Coyote roar to life.

[Ted G]

Looking good! I guess you'll need that engine hoist pretty soon eh? I'll get it back to you this weekend hopefully! Thanks goes out to Fman for the loaner X2.

[toadster]

a few more things while we prep for engine test fit...

Digging through all the wiring, we realized that there a few more items from the A/C and wipers that we needed to pull the dash and re-wire, we'll probably leave the dash off for a little while to do the engine-bay runs back to the switches
lots more wire dieting and soldering, thankfully my son loves to solder :)

176165

clearing out the garage a bit to make room for the hoist and a few local cobra guys to help with the engine test fit, expectations are that we'll have to pull the engine back out due to the A/C & Heater setup alignment
maybe we'll get lucky - but not expecting it to all work the first time...

also prepping more cockpit items, spraying the seat frames to minimize rust, and the last bit of Thermo-Tec on the transmission tunnel
176166 176167

Also ran the relay and wiring for the fog light setup, upgrading from the H3 55W to LED

176168 176169

I then realized that you need a h3 pk22s base which is a flat base, many LED H3s have a thick collar, so I ordered new ones from SuperBrightLEDs
https://www.superbrightleds.com/h3-led-daytime-running-light-bulb-with-focusing-lens-400-lumens-cool-white

the side markers are Alla Lighting Miniature 168 194 LED Lights Bulbs T10 Wedge Super Bright Amber Yellow Interior/Side Marker Lights 194A 194NA 2825 W5W 192 158 (https://amzn.to/3gM7Bnd)

[toadster]

getting a few more items done, placed a 150A breaker (https://amzn.to/3H3w2r9) in the engine bay for alternator circuit protection, cheap $40 insurance for what could be a big $$ issue
also ran a grommet for the hydraulic clutch line, length TBD once we test fit the engine, I'll seal up the alternator line once we get a good length on the line

176257

since the Coyote has been sitting for a bit, I chose to use some Sta-Bil Fogging Oil (https://amzn.to/3XVia88) to coat the cylinders a bit, hand spun the engine about 10-12 times
was also a good opportunity to check the spark plugs for proper gap

176258 176260 176261

getting the garage ready tonight, and hopefully the weather won't be too bad tomorrow for a test fit of the engine!

[Railroad]

Do not use that gauge to open the gap on your plugs, if needed.
Read up on gapping plugs and make note about the precious metal tipped ones.
It is not so surgical, but a lot of people pry on the electrode to open the gap, BAD.

[toadster]

Do not use that gauge to open the gap on your plugs, if needed.
Read up on gapping plugs and make note about the precious metal tipped ones.
It is not so surgical, but a lot of people pry on the electrode to open the gap, BAD.

agreed, it was only to check the gap - they were all spot on, just wanted to verify - you never know when a tech will accidentally bump one when assembling :)

[Ted G]

Can't wait to help you install this thing!

[460.465USMC]

Almost there, Todd. Not sure if you got your hydraulic clutch line from Forte, but I did, and routed very similarly to yours and the length is perfect. Looking good.

[John Ibele]

Man you bit off a lot with your build, but not more than you could chew - way to keep chugging along, Todd.

[toadster]

I took a day off Friday to get the garage a bit more organized and see how the engine would come off the pallet, never ran into this before, but I haven't use an engine hoist in over 30 years - let alone, one with a new crate motor on a pallet

the pallet wood itself is too wide for the legs of the engine hoist, so not only are we doing a custom build, but had to customize the pallet to get the engine on the hoist :)

176352 176351 176350 176349

what fun is that!? The legs now were situated to the point where the end of the hoist was over the center of the engine which allowed us to test lift and check on clearance, etc.

next, I prepped the engine bay, removed the steering arm, removed the radiator, and used some HUGE pool noodles to protect the engine bay a bit

176355

[toadster]

Saturday was an amazing day - some of the local Sacrament FFR crew showed up for bagels and coffee... oh and to help STUFF the coyote in the engine bay!

176364 176365 176356 176357

176358 176359 176360 176361

Holy Smokes! Just a surreal feeling!

[toadster]

here's a few more pics to show how tight that coyote really is in the engine bay!
I need to figure out the oil filler - it's flush against the passenger rail, probably a disassemble, and mount on the head?

176366

the driver side zero clearance insulation is right up against the spark plug wires, folks aren't kidding that it's about 1/4" clearance to the footbox...
176367

the team was amazing! Such a great group!!

176368

[toadster]

after a few hours, the team left and my son and I were mounting the A-frame and torquing bolts...

things went well until the passenger size engine mount... yes, that's a grade8 bolt that snapped off!!

176369

Sadly my son fractured his knuckle when this bolt snapped, we think he may be ok with a brace for a bit while it heals...

fortunately, Tim (aka tbl100 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/member.php?28199-tbl100)) had a spare mount kit - the alignment pin was welded in the wrong spot so FFR sent him a new kit when he assembled his Coyote

he was gracious enough not only to come get the parts, but to also grind off and re-welt the alignment pin! my son Ryan - broken knuckle and all wanted to do the work!

176370 176371 176372 176373
that was the first time he welded and it turned out great!

today, I'm hoping to use some metal etch on the plate and paint to protect it then we'll have to raise the engine and re-fit the passenger mount

just to clarify - torque settings we're seeing on the internet is 41-ft/lbs from mount to block and 120 ft-lbs from chassis to mount

if that 120 is too much PLEASE let me know!

[John Ibele]

Wow! That was even more excitement than you anticipated! Glad your son's (mostly) okay, and great to see his level of attachment to the project. And in the end, you've got the engine in it's final home, which is a great thing. Those Coyote's give the phrase "between the rails" a real test ... congrats Todd, way to go. Great to see after that ton of custom wiring you've churned out.

[JohnK]

Congratulations on getting that beast stuffed in there! That's a huge accomplishment. No matter how many photos you've seen, it's a far tighter squeeze when you see it in person. Sorry to hear about your son's knuckle. I hope it heals up quickly. FWIW - I also had a tough time tracking down torque specs for the engine mount to block and engine mount to frame torque specs. I ended up going with the recommendation in this thread (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31343-Engine-Mount-Torque-Specs).

Engine mount (Engine to mount) 35-60
Engine mount (Mount to frame) 50-105

That's a pretty wide range, though. IIRC, I just shot for the middle of that range and called it good enough. I put some blue loctite on the mount to engine bolts. My mount to frame nuts were distorted thread nuts, so no loctite needed there.

[toadster]

Wow! That was even more excitement than you anticipated! Glad your son's (mostly) okay, and great to see his level of attachment to the project. And in the end, you've got the engine in it's final home, which is a great thing. Those Coyote's give the phrase "between the rails" a real test ... congrats Todd, way to go. Great to see after that ton of custom wiring you've churned out.


Congratulations on getting that beast stuffed in there! That's a huge accomplishment. No matter how many photos you've seen, it's a far tighter squeeze when you see it in person. Sorry to hear about your son's knuckle. I hope it heals up quickly. FWIW - I also had a tough time tracking down torque specs for the engine mount to block and engine mount to frame torque specs. I ended up going with the recommendation in this thread (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31343-Engine-Mount-Torque-Specs).

Engine mount (Engine to mount) 35-60
Engine mount (Mount to frame) 50-105

That's a pretty wide range, though. IIRC, I just shot for the middle of that range and called it good enough. I put some blue loctite on the mount to engine bolts. My mount to frame nuts were distorted thread nuts, so no loctite needed there.

Thanks guys! Yeah, my son is doing pretty well - this is nothing compared to his broken collarbone and thumb six months ago! He's a trooper!!

I think your mount #s John are pretty good, no wonder 120 broke a bolt :(
I'm really (maybe no so) surprised FFR doesn't have any numbers on this step! They seem to document torque settings on everything else...

I 'prepped' the new mount and painted it - it ain't pretty, but it's an engine mount LOL

I think when we get the engine up in the air a little, I will probably fumble around with the headers, that's going to be an exercise in frustration, I just know it! :)

[Gizmosrcool]

Good story for your son when asked what he did this weekend. "Ehh. Busted my knuckle up a little when dropping in Dad's coyote motor in his hotrod. No biggie". You will have great experiences and stories to look back on. Busted knuckle = sore. Time with your son = priceless.

[toadster]

Good story for your son when asked what he did this weekend. "Ehh. Busted my knuckle up a little when dropping in Dad's coyote motor in his hotrod. No biggie". You will have great experiences and stories to look back on. Busted knuckle = sore. Time with your son = priceless.

yes, we've made some amazing memories working on this car! :)

tonight we use the doctored up engine mount, I metal etched it and painted it - the paint looks horrible, but - it's an engine mount!
what is really odd, the 7/8ths socket fit the prior nuts, but we had to go buy a 22mm socket for the replacement nuts - so crazy!

we torqued them to 85 ft-lbs this time!

176407 176408

also got two of the 3 starter bolts in, need to jack up the car for the bottom one for sure...

176409

we were going to start the headers tonight, but realized it's 10pm time for bed!

176410

[edwardb]

Nice progress. Minor point, but you asked about the oil filler. Probably you've figured this out by now. But yes, take the extension off and use the provided cap. The extension twists off just like a cap. You'll need a funnel for oil fills. But no big deal.

[Mike.Bray]

also got two of the 3 starter bolts in, need to jack up the car for the bottom one for sure...

176409

Situations like the starter motor and even headers are often easier with studs and nuts instead of bolts.

[toadster]

Nice progress. Minor point, but you asked about the oil filler. Probably you've figured this out by now. But yes, take the extension off and use the provided cap. The extension twists off just like a cap. You'll need a funnel for oil fills. But no big deal.

yes, thanks Paul - that filler neck was in there pretty good, surprised FFR doesn't tell you to remove it before dropping in the motor as it's right up against the passenger rail
all better now, agreed will need a funnel and maybe flexible hose for filling once the body is on


Situations like the starter motor and even headers are often easier with studs and nuts instead of bolts.

that's a great idea! I got the Stage 8 (8914) 1.25" Thread Pitch Bolt Kit (https://amzn.to/3Hg3tXC) for the headers, in hindsight the studs/bolts method would be much easier!

[460.465USMC]

here's a few more pics to show how tight that coyote really is in the engine bay!

the driver side zero clearance insulation is right up against the spark plug wires, folks aren't kidding that it's about 1/4" clearance to the footbox...

176368

Congrats, Todd and Ryan. Well done. Like JohnK said, until you put the Coyote in it's hard to describe how tight it fits. I had less than a 1/4" on the DS FB.

I see Edwardb already commented on the oil filler tube. Forte removed mine before shipping, so I use a funnel with a long flexible tube to fill the oil.

I hope your son's finger heals up with no issues.

P.S. which one are you in the picture?

[toadster]

Congrats, Todd and Ryan. Well done. Like JohnK said, until you put the Coyote in it's hard to describe how tight it fits. I had less than a 1/4" on the DS FB.

I see Edwardb already commented on the oil filler tube. Forte removed mine before shipping, so I use a funnel with a long flexible tube to fill the oil.
I hope your son's finger heals up with no issues.

P.S. which one are you in the picture?

I'm the one circled in yellow, my son Ryan is in red :)

176424

[toadster]

oh the fun we get ourselves into!

I started fitting the headers, and got a bit ahead of my skis (just being honest)

I fit both sides with a few bolts to check clearances, etc. I posted a separate thread (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?44725-Coyote-full-length-header-alignment-side-to-side) on this, but it was the first time I could physically 'see' the headers in relation to the body

the passenger side has all the room in the world, but the driver side, everything is tight!

176665 176666

I realized that I had to put the side panel on the driver footbox, so I was checking everything in the area, fusepanel access, etc.
This is where I came upon my blast gate issue that I had installed a while ago - it was binding up so this was the time to fix it!

I realized that the choke cable I used was binding up from the angle of the blast gate mount point, so I installed a small 1/4" aluminum mount and it works great now!

176667
https://youtu.be/l2pv7dWe0AQ

with that done, I can button up the side panel for the driver footbox...

I set off to install the headers... oh boy...
I started with the passenger side, and here's where I made a rookie mistake...

I fastened 2 bolts at first, didn't torque them down but use them to hold he gasket and header in place, I proceeded to do 5 more bolts and got them all screwed in but not torqued
the last bolt (rear upper) started in just fine, and it's harder to see so I but my socket on it and started tightening down.

This last bolt was mis-aligned a bit and started cross threading... (insert sad/mad face here)

so I pulled it all out and we determined (along with the local Sacramento Factory Five clan) that it was time to tap the hole...

[toadster]

https://youtu.be/MlFvD7XSfX4

my son and I have never tapped a hole before, let along on a brand new aluminum coyote head- so we tested on a scrap piece of 1/4" aluminum I have laying around
and once we determined that the hole was perfect and the bolts slide like butter, he did the same on the engine... I love this kids patience!
we use cutting oil to ease the cut, and also helps remove debris

176669 176670

we blew out all the junk we could with the air nozzle, but to go the extra step, I have some nylon plugs from my other tap - A BEER TAP! These worked AWESOME!
normally these are pretty white, but the silver sheen shows that it worked great at cleaning out those threads!

176671 176672

all bolts move well now, but we had to finalize a few more things before bolting on the headers (again)

we jacked up the car to get the 3rd starter bolt installed from underneath, and also finished mounting the transmission to the A-Frame, and installing the Metco driveshaft loop

I think after 6 trips this weekend to Lowes, Home Depot and Ace, we finally found a 7/16-14 1" bolt that we needed to mount the Metco frame to the transmission
The 1.25" bolts provided by Metco were too long and the .75 bolts from FFR were too short...
3 Forte transmission spacers were installed and we also put red Loctite on the bolts from the driveshaft to the yoke adapter
176673

at this point the drivetrain has been torqued down and done - finally! next is the headers... fingers crossed and tons of patience needed!

[toadster]

well some good news, finally got a few minutes last night to install the passenger side header - voila! it fits!
I believe part of our problem is that 2 of the bolts from Stage8 were x-threaded, still need to torque down and fit the locks, but progress!!

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[Jeff Kleiner]

well some good news, finally got a few minutes last night to install the passenger side header - voila! it fits!
I believe part of our problem is that 2 of the bolts from Stage8 were x-threaded, still need to torque down and fit the locks, but progress!!



TIP: Run it through a few heat/cool cycles and torque the bolts after each one before installing the locks.

Jeff

[toadster]

man it's been a while since an update! I think my license plate should read "SLOWBLD" :)

lots of odd-and-ends, still so much to do!
lots of updates, will probably break into a few posts

Reworked the ABS wiring, I'll probably post a whole separate thread on this. No guarantees it works till I test drive it!
After hours of research and jumping across 3-4 websites, I believe we have the proper wiring setup now.
trackmustangsonline.com (https://trackmustangsonline.com/threads/hi-all-new-guy-here-building-a-factory-five-cobra-with-gt500-abs.19335/#post-293529)
community.drivenasa.com (https://community.drivenasa.com/topic/46617-repost-of-quotford-racing-abs-installationquot/)
www.johngeorgeracing.com (http://www.johngeorgeracing.com/gallery/index.php?/category/79) prior owner of FFR#48 Type65
community.drivenasa.com (https://community.drivenasa.com/topic/33926-fr500s-abs/)

my biggest concern was getting the signaling setup, all 4 corners have sensors - it's a matter of pedal feedback and realizing that the 2007-2009 Ford Mustang GT500 anti-lock brake system (ABS) hydraulic control unit (HCU) can run standalone

My son and I rewired everything (pending a whole other post) - but ended up with a 2nd OBD2 port to talk to the HCU
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the trick here is to put a 120 Ohm resistor between the HS-CAN Hi and Lo wires - I have yet to test this, but from a few others (forums above) - it should work

new OBD2 pigtail and resistors, depinned, and shown with the new 40A/30A harness I created to feed the front and rear ABS channel pumps
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here you can see the resistor soldered in between the HS CAN+/- lines, and the 2nd OBD2 port (on the left) that will allow me to talk with the ABS HCU as a standalone unit
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[toadster]

next up was to FINALLY cut the dash center mount, I'm sure this will raise some comments, but it was a much simpler mod for the A/C unit install versus cutting more into the firewall and further restricting the wiper motor installation
this A/C installation is going to be a LOT of customization to the condenser to make it fit the engine bay with the coyote...

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we're looking to get the last of the wiring in the cockpit done, and to setup the wiring for the heated seats I wanted to get the seats setup so we can wire diet the seat heater harness a bit

I had already installed the seatback heater pads, but was dragging my feet on tearing apart the seat portion, and like many have done before me with the Cobra Valley Seat Heaters, I unglued the seat, and placed the heating element
if you're like me, you hate tearing apart something new to modify it - but it has to be done!

gently pull back the leather from the pad without removing too much padding - take your time.
next peel the adhesive tape off and affix the pads
next, many cut into the seat pad a bit to bury the heater cable
I glued that cut to seal it up (nice pink duct tape eh?)
using the Weldwood adhesive, the small can worked beautifully for both seats - and yes, IT STINKS!
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[toadster]

oh but wait, there's more!

I have these other options for the seats - the Breeze seat mounts, ABS to replace the fiberboard, and some seat slides, YMMV if you use them or not but I figured it's an option that may be beneficial down the road

I ordered a set of Universal Bucket Seat Slider Tracks from Speedway (https://amzn.to/3I274Z5), they lock on both sides with a wire pull between them
of course, they don't snap in like a lego set, you need to modify them - and took us about 6 hours to align to the Breeze mounts, and attach the seats

measuring out the breeze mounts, and wanted to share our trick to minimize damage when drilling the seats
use a scrap piece of aluminum sheet to place between the leather and the drill bit - worked GREAT! and stopped the bit a few times as it broke through the metal
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the ABS panel I got custom cut from Falken Design 2x Custom Cut: 10.125 X 14.875 to match the fiberboard dimensions from Breeze
it's not cheap at about $75, but I know this will be more flexible/sturdy than the fiberboard, the smooth self-tapping screws are low profile and shouldn't impede any seat comfort
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next up was the fun stuff, get out the cutting wheel!
the posts on the seat slides need to be cut-off, and you can drill out - punch out the press-fit remainder...
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[toadster]

we opted to put the slides in between the breeze lower mount and the angled mount, this way the seat will move forward, without moving upward
you can see how the setup will look when mounted to the bottom brackets - both sides are mounted with the adjuster on the right side

once this plate is mounted on the floor we can simply attach the seat with the slides with 4 nuts, moving the seat back/forth to gain access to the front & rear nuts
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of course, modding the bottom mount means we have to mod the top mount that attaches to the seat itself
on the both the top and bottom sides, we left the front holes the same and drilled new rear mount holes

tolerances are pretty tight, but we used eight 1/2 inch 5/16-18 hex bolts with matching locknuts - these wont budge and really solid!

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[cc2Arider]

I agree on the 120 Ohm terminating resistor on any CAN backbone with unused connections.

Craig C

[toadster]

got a few more things behind us now...

when I assembled the seat sliders, both rails lock but there is a tension wire made of spring steel that was about 2 inches too long, no matter how hard you try, spring steel wants to keep it's shape, and trying to rebend is a nightmare and just won't hold
I had to get creative and used some prior knowledge using stainless wire and a turnbuckle setup - about $10 in parts from home depot

I honestly could have done this for $6 if I didn't get the turnbuckles, about $1 in 1/16 wire and the ferrules were $5.10 for a pack of 8
now they're the perfect length, and can be adjusted (if needed) over time, to keep the tension
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next up was to setup the Moroso 63806 Coolant Expansion Tank (https://amzn.to/3IDpxvi) for the coyote, as many of you have seen before on Edwardb's (and many others) builds
Getting the setup has a few requirements first:
1. need to mount the hood hinges, at least the passenger side to get the spacing correct, I setup the hood hinges as far inward as possible as a worst case scenario
2. mounting the intake will help as well, you have about 1/4-3/8" clearance when it's all setup
3. removing the radiator makes it easier to access the crossbar

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the intake tube, in pieces doesn't look like much, but when assembled - it's a stout setup!

Instead of making two separate tabs (like on this page) https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?30519-Coolant-expansion-tank
I had some 1/8" x 2" aluminum bar, so I figured I'd make a bar setup and rivet to the crossbar frame

simply run the bar up the flange, mark the holes and cut to size...
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next I had to space the reservoir side to side, making sure the passenger side hood mount wouldn't hit, and also the intake wouldn't rub either
once I had this placement, I was able to bend the mount to the correct angle, I opted to put in 1/4-20 rivnuts with button head bolts

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once all aligned and drilled, I could mount the reservoir in the engine bay

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overall, feels pretty good to get this in place, still plenty to do, and space is at a super premium now!

[JohnK]

Hey Todd! Nice work on the expansion tank. You're likely already aware of this if you've seen Edwardb's build thread but I'll mention it anyway... that expansion tank gets kinda heavy when full and definitely needs something for that lower tab on the underside of the tank to sit on. The bracket on the flange of the expansion tank is not enough, by itself, to support the tank when full. Lot's of folks have come up with many different ways to skin that cat. If you're using the Breeze radiator fan shroud, that's a convenient place to attach a support to.

[toadster]

Hey Todd! Nice work on the expansion tank. You're likely already aware of this if you've seen Edwardb's build thread but I'll mention it anyway... that expansion tank gets kinda heavy when full and definitely needs something for that lower tab on the underside of the tank to sit on. The bracket on the flange of the expansion tank is not enough, by itself, to support the tank when full. Lot's of folks have come up with many different ways to skin that cat. If you're using the Breeze radiator fan shroud, that's a convenient place to attach a support to.

agreed, I plan on adding one more tab on the bottom to the breeze mount as well, it's a lot of trial-and-error to get everything to fit in the engine bay at this point :)

[toadster]

hooked up the brake booster to the coyote tonight, couldn't find a Quick-Loc connector that was 1/2" inlet and 3/8" barb, so I cobbled together a few parts

Dorman 46017 PCV End Assembly (https://amzn.to/3YLq4kH) which connects to the vacuum port on the Gen3 Coyote intake port
Dorman 800-011 Fuel Line Rep Kit 3/8 Union (https://amzn.to/41epNbq), this connects the 90-degree assembly (above) to the hose from the Whitby brake booster

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and yes, before you ask - my steering shaft is on the motor because I haven't mounted the driver header yet ;)

Next up before buttoning up the footbox was to place the Breeze Dead Pedal (https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/dead-pedal-kit-for-use-with-wilwood-pedal-box/)
a little confusing at first until you get things setup, it's a REALLY stout setup and I placed the dead pedal tad behind the clutch pedal to give an inch or so of stretch when resting
this is personal preference, you may do yours higher or lower

without the side panel, it's a bit of - hmm, how does this work? so we cleco'ed the panel in place
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here you can see two bolts installed, we mounted the dead pedal pretty much up to the corner of the footbox extension, really nice scuff pad on the pedal too!
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lastly, you can see the 2 other bolts and cross-brace which is riveted to the outer footbox, and the brace gets riveted back on the 2" rail as well - really sturdy!
I rounded the edge a bit when I cut off the length of the cross-brace, we figured it would hopefully save a gash in the leg during the paint prep session :)
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[egchewy79]

may be the angle, but I think your overflow tank is going to be way too high as it sits. look at where the hood hinges are. you will have only slight clearance above this as the nose of the body tapers down a bit going forward.

edit: just looked at the side view. you might be ok looking at the location of the top of your air snorkel. carry on.

[toadster]

may be the angle, but I think your overflow tank is going to be way too high as it sits. look at where the hood hinges are. you will have only slight clearance above this as the nose of the body tapers down a bit going forward.

edit: just looked at the side view. you might be ok looking at the location of the top of your air snorkel. carry on.

thanks for the check chewy :) I was skeptical as well, but reading through lots of posts, I kept the mounting tab at the same level as the bottom of the cross-bar
this seems to keep the tank low enough :)

Crazy how tight everything is in the engine bay !

[JohnK]

It's good there. I mounted mine the same way and it fits just fine under the hood.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152906&d=1630460566

[Ted G]

Looking great Todd!!! Can't wait to ride with you this Summer

[toadster]

finally got some time on the car today...

buttoned up the engine sensors (oil pressure, oil temp and water temp)

Got creative here to minimize some wiring runs as the Coyote Moroso #20570 oil pan (https://amzn.to/3yduR2v) has 3 holes, 1 for draining at the rear, and two on either side, the temp sender for the oil temp fits the passenger side bung, but we didn't want to run a 2 1/2 foot longer wire under the engine, so I opted to get an adapter for the driver's side to keep the wiring all together.

I had to use a GlowShift M20 x 1.5 Male to 1/8-27 NPT Female Gauge Sensor Sender Thread Adapter Reducer (https://amzn.to/3SNZdlT) and assemble the oil temp sender into this adapter - fits perfectly into the oil pan!
Since these wires get awfully close to the driver side header, I opted for a 3/4" Titanium Express Heat Sleeve (https://amzn.to/3mvjZKK), it fits perfectly over the bundle and even matches the powdercoat! :)

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Next up was to drill the PCV port on the intake, used a step bit to work our way up, but ended up just doing a 3/4" hole in the end as the grommet and part fit really snug at 3/4"
This is needed in CA, even registering as a 1965 vehicle, you need the PCV routing back into the intake

JohnK was super nice and shipped me a few feet of PCV 1/2" hose, it fits perfectly! Gosh I need to get the buffer out now!

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next up we fitted the power steering lines...

this is a bit tricky since we have the Breeze battery box in the engine bay AND the ABS unit next to the battery... Not sure how you guys route your PS lines with the battery there, but we opted to put the high-pressure line between the battery and HCU instead of coming over and through the X

a few rivets and it's in there solid!

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lastly, started running some of the heater hose to the Moroso overflow tank...

used the Parts # list from Edwardb's build

CL3Z-8260-A or KM-5114 (upper hose - still need to connect)
BMS-104 Lower hose kit for Coyote in Roadster (need to figure out how this will connect!)

FR3Z-8075-C – Hose from tank top/front to radiator, including one-way check valve, mounted on the tank, need to refit the radiator

DG9Z-8100-A - Stock Mustang reservoir cap, mine seems to 'ride high' on the tank, should it mount flush?

FR3Z-8276-B - Hose from the overflow tank top/rear to the water neck near the throttle body. Not sure if I like how it fits on top of the intake tube...

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it's really insane how tight this engine bay is getting... and we're not done yet! still have to route heater hoses, A/C drier, Thermotron valve and A/C lines! oh and mount the A/C unit in the firewall...

[toadster]

last item we attempted was to get the Forte clutch slave connected - we finally got the 40" line as the 24" one wasn't going to match up... it was Mike's mistake from the shipment early on, so he promptly shipped the correct line.

when trimming the slave pushrod, I didn't grok the depth, cut it once, but thought it was still too long so cut it a 2nd time - alas, too short!
Ran to ACE Hardware before they closed to get a 4" 5/16-24 bolt and will try again tomorrow :)

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only had to use a pair of washers to mount the slave to the Forte mount with the Coyote/TKX setup
just to note, the pushrod is just a 5/16-24 bolt with the head cut off and ground the edges smooth - should be a simple enough fix then I can bleed the clutch!

[facultyofmusic]

Nicely done! The titanium heat sleeve definitely looks better than foil tape I put on mine!


DG9Z-8100-A - Stock Mustang reservoir cap, mine seems to 'ride high' on the tank, should it mount flush?


Mine rides pretty high too. It shows a few threads at the bottom. No issues tho!
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[JohnK]

Next up was to drill the PCV port on the intake, used a step bit to work our way up, but ended up just doing a 3/4" hole in the end as the grommet and part fit really snug at 3/4"
This is needed in CA, even registering as a 1965 vehicle, you need the PCV routing back into the intake

JohnK was super nice and shipped me a few feet of PCV 1/2" hose, it fits perfectly! Gosh I need to get the buffer out now!

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Hey, that's looking really nice! I hear you on needing to get the buffer out. I'll leave that for whenever I get the car ready for a show sometime down the road.

One small comment on the PCV connection into the elbow. I see what you're trying to do but I think you have that fitting backward. The barbed end is supposed to go into the grommet and the other end is meant to receive a connector on the PCV hose like the one on the engine end of the hose. It should look like this...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180329&d=1677011078

The barbed end of that fitting was a little loose in the grommet on mine, but several wraps of electrical tape on the barbs made for a really nice, tight fit.

[toadster]

Hey, that's looking really nice! I hear you on needing to get the buffer out. I'll leave that for whenever I get the car ready for a show sometime down the road.

One small comment on the PCV connection into the elbow. I see what you're trying to do but I think you have that fitting backward. The barbed end is supposed to go into the grommet and the other end is meant to receive a connector on the PCV hose like the one on the engine end of the hose. It should look like this...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180329&d=1677011078

The barbed end of that fitting was a little loose in the grommet on mine, but several wraps of electrical tape on the barbs made for a really night, tight fit.

ah! that makes sense!! LOL it's really snug fitting, I guess i need to find an adapter for the plug - that would be slick! any recommendations?

[JohnK]

In a couple of photos in your post here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?34952-25th-MKIV-9772-Build-NOR*CAL-odds-n-ends&p=517919&viewfull=1#post517919) it looks like you have the stock DS PCV hose but it was too short to reach. I just cut the plastic tubing off of my stock hose and re-used the two end fittings with the Gates tubing.

[460.465USMC]

finally got some time on the car today...

lastly, started running some of the heater hose to the Moroso overflow tank...

DG9Z-8100-A - Stock Mustang reservoir cap, mine seems to 'ride high' on the tank, should it mount flush?

[COLOR=#000000]FR3Z-8276-B - Hose from the overflow tank top/rear to the water neck near the throttle body. Not sure if I like how it fits on top of the intake tube...


Hi Todd. Glad you were able to get some garage time in recently. It's fun to watch your build progressing.

Radiator cap: as another point of reference, my stock cap sits 1 1/8" above the top of the Moroso tank.

I routed the top hose from the tank underneath the fresh air intake tube instead of over the top. Just another option that might work for you.

[toadster]

In a couple of photos in your post here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?34952-25th-MKIV-9772-Build-NOR*CAL-odds-n-ends&p=517919&viewfull=1#post517919) it looks like you have the stock DS PCV hose but it was too short to reach. I just cut the plastic tubing off of my stock hose and re-used the two end fittings with the Gates tubing.

yup that was before I realized I needed that 1/2" hose that you sent to me, I don't think any of it is documented in the Coyote FFR guide because they use their own intake bend with a port, I liked the look of the Spectre setup more



Hi Todd. Glad you were able to get some garage time in recently. It's fun to watch your build progressing.
Radiator cap: as another point of reference, my stock cap sits 1 1/8" above the top of the Moroso tank.
I routed the top hose from the tank underneath the fresh air intake tube instead of over the top. Just another option that might work for you.

Thanks! I'll give that a shot, it seems to be a pretty specific fit - so it's nice to see some of the factory parts align well with the aftermarket tank!

[JohnK]

yup that was before I realized I needed that 1/2" hose that you sent to me,

Do you still have that original hose? If so, just cut the plastic hose off the fitting carefully with an x-acto knife and re-use the fitting. If not, I think the correct Ford P/N is 7T4Z9E499D (https://www.newautoparts.com/oem-parts/ford-pcv-tube-connector-7t4z9e499d?c=Zz1lbWlzc2lvbi1zeXN0ZW0mcz1lbWlzc2lvb i1jb21wb25lbnRzJmw9NyZuPUFzc2VtYmxpZXMgUGFnZSZhPWZ vcmQmbz10cmFuc2l0LTI1MCZ5PTIwMjAmdD1iYXNlJmU9My01b C12Ni1nYXM%3D)

[toadster]

Do you still have that original hose? If so, just cut the plastic hose off the fitting carefully with an x-acto knife and re-use the fitting. If not, I think the correct Ford P/N is 7T4Z9E499D (https://www.newautoparts.com/oem-parts/ford-pcv-tube-connector-7t4z9e499d?c=Zz1lbWlzc2lvbi1zeXN0ZW0mcz1lbWlzc2lvb i1jb21wb25lbnRzJmw9NyZuPUFzc2VtYmxpZXMgUGFnZSZhPWZ vcmQmbz10cmFuc2l0LTI1MCZ5PTIwMjAmdD1iYXNlJmU9My01b C12Ni1nYXM%3D)

yep I have the fitting, i'll give it a go tonight

Thanks!

edit: gave it a shot, but my end connector is a 45-degree angle, so I'll order the straight one like you listed, too much strain with the 45

[toadster]

update! ordered the straight PCV fitting, still waiting on that!

seems like a lot of little things getting done!

finally got the new rod installed for the Forte's slave cylinder, figured out the logistics (we hope!) only had to trim about 1/4" off the rod and seems to get full throw
there's about 1/8" of play (e.g. no pressure on the clutch when fully engaged

it was quite a surprise bleeding that slave cylinder, I felt like a glazed donut for a few minutes LOL

next up was to finally button up the driver footbox (leaving the top open for now) - I figured may as well put in some carpet so I don't have to contort my body later
also, instead of spray painting black on your floor/walls, use gaffer's tape - it worked out PERFECTLY!

Gaffers Tape (2-Roll Pack) - 2” W x 30 Yards Per Roll (180 ft) (https://amzn.to/401OC9q)


this is the 20oz bass boat carpet, and used the FFR carpet as a template, came out pretty nice!
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will leave the floor and inner wall for post body markup

Now the part we've been all waiting for... FINALLY getting the driver side header installed... it initially started out poorly, like REALLY poorly! The bolts didn't seem to thread correctly... ugh!
my son said 'Dad, let's just tap them all' - and we spent the next 30 minutes tapping the holes, they were HORRIBLE! Unsure what happened at the Ford Factory with this engine, but we had 3 holes on the passenger side and 5 (maybe 6) on the drivers side that were horribly off or cross threaded...

Once tapped, the bolts went in like butter - I think we had the driver header installed in about 10 minutes - so anyone that is doing this, I HIGHLY suggest running a tap through your header holes... it made an amazing difference!!
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we used our fingers to run all but 1 bolt to the header plate, then a regular sized 7/16ths socket, a long 7/16ths socket, a 7/16's ratchet/open end wrench combo got the bolts tightened up
I never thought I'd say it, but with my son topside, and me under the car, the driver header was easy peasy!

[toadster]

next up, wiper motor bracket installation - we did some serious eyeballing and got this lined up, and drilled into the FFMetal Firewall Forward - removed it for now until we get the A/C / Heater installed

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Lastly, my son Ryan has been dying to tear apart the A/C unit, the unit itself is deeper than the regular heater and conflicts in the stock setup.

we chose to remove the fan and flip it upside down, and he's flattening the side to mount the fan - this should keep the whole unit under the hoodline
first we moved some of the coyote wire harness (the harness attached to the engine) downward, to give us the much needed space... by moving this bundle down, we gained about 2 more inches of space!
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normally that K08 labelled bundle is on top of the CMCV lockout, what a huge difference!!

And here's Ryan, dremelling away at the A/C unit while my heart skips a few beats... love this guy and his patience and fervor !!

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The A/C has a long way to go, but we did a LOT today! celebrated a long day with some burgers and brews!
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[Ted G]

Looking great guys! Can't wait to hear her run!

[Fman]

Awesome, one step closer! We will all be sweating and envious when you turn on your A/C! Are you running adjustable ball flange headers? or are those fixed? I have been following Johnk (Aka Greek guys garage) build and he had some header issues with his Coyote. Not sure if you were aware.

[JohnK]

Todd, which headers are those? I had the GP headers with catalytic converters, as FFR didn't offer headers with cats when I placed my order. Yours look similar to mine but hard to say for sure. A lot of header and side pipe fitment issues comes down to driveline alignment and body position, so just because I had issues doesn't mean you will too but what I will say is to make sure you spend some time test fitting side pipes and make sure you get everything sorted out before final bodywork and paint so you can avoid the heartache I'm going through now. In case you haven't seen it, you can read about my issues here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?44958-Side-pipe-fit-issues) , here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31167-Greek-Guys-Garage-Roadster-Build-9509-(rear-wheel-well-splash-guards-and-liners)&p=514177&viewfull=1#post514177) and here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31167-Greek-Guys-Garage-Roadster-Build-9509-(rear-wheel-well-splash-guards-and-liners)&p=518232&viewfull=1#post518232).

[toadster]

Todd, which headers are those? I had the GP headers with catalytic converters, as FFR didn't offer headers with cats when I placed my order. Yours look similar to mine but hard to say for sure. A lot of header and side pipe fitment issues comes down to driveline alignment and body position, so just because I had issues doesn't mean you will too but what I will say is to make sure you spend some time test fitting side pipes and make sure you get everything sorted out before final bodywork and paint so you can avoid the heartache I'm going through now. In case you haven't seen it, you can read about my issues here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?44958-Side-pipe-fit-issues) , here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31167-Greek-Guys-Garage-Roadster-Build-9509-(rear-wheel-well-splash-guards-and-liners)&p=514177&viewfull=1#post514177) and here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31167-Greek-Guys-Garage-Roadster-Build-9509-(rear-wheel-well-splash-guards-and-liners)&p=518232&viewfull=1#post518232).

they are the FFR catalytic headers, they do look very similar to your GP headers, will definitely be doing a lot of fitting, and Ken will be doing the bodywork
I intend to have the sidepipes on before taking up to him so all work can be done to ensure good alignment

[toadster]

getting a little more done...
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started the A/C condenser layout, the directions (for the coupe) state to mount the condenser at the bottom edge of the radiator... of course the radiator in the Coupe is mounted top forward (opposite of the roadster)
181913
assuming the same placement in front of the radiator it will stick out a bit more ~1.5" - my concern is the Everson radiator shroud, which I may have to hack a bit (but it's already powdercoated)
thinking that I'll switch from the stainless mesh to a nomex cover now due to the double mounted condenser/radiator combo, jury still out on that :)

I have a TON of extra A/C line fittings, need to really dial in the angles at this point. Space is at an ultra premium now and really struggling with mount points for the heater valve.. the last place I can logically mount it is on the firewall

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big concern there is with all the hoses, will I be able to adjust fuel pressure?

also here's a pic of the evaporator/HVAC - we still need determine how we're going to cap the front and route the hoses, but at this point if we can come off the sides (not as efficient) it will have a full glovebox
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[toadster]

ended up having to flip the install on the condenser to fit the roadster setup, not too bad... still need to get a #8 90-degree fitting for the top bung on the condenser

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also, removed the vacuum port from the FPR and replaced with the Aeromotive 15662 Breather (https://amzn.to/3ZjWmCO) since the vacuum won't be needed with the LUND tune.
saved a 'little' bit of space in the engine bay (LOL)

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my son Ryan dieted the passenger side and extended the driver side O2 wiring harnesses, much cleaner setup now (we left the actual O2 bung harness alone, just modified the feed lines to the O2 harness

then the fun part of mounting the lower mount on the Moroso overflow tank.. we re-used a portion of the Heater Valve mount (which is stainless) to make a 2 piece mount, 1 part mounted to the tank, and the other part mounted to the Breeze Radiator shroud
we were amazed at how the 3rd mount really makes this part unmovable - definitely recommended!

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we used a simple 10-24 bolt with locknut to hold the tank to the mount, riveted the bottom mount to the Breeze radiator shroud and then a 10-24 rivnut/bolt to hold both mounts together - took a lot of trial and error but it's SOLID!

[toadster]

finalized the wiring at the front of the car, got the fan wired up, all grounds, and ran a starter line from the battery (not hooked up yet)

got the Boig Cool Tube setup for the Coyote (https://boigmotorsports.com/product/bms-104-lower-hose-kit-for-coyote-in-roadster-with-new-ffr-radiator/)situated in the engine bay. Since the ABS setup in the way, we can't route under the X in the chassis, so we have to go over the X
modified the rubber a bit and worked like a champ with a cushion clamp to keep it solid on the frame.

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did the 'notch' in the Coyote top hose to get it clocked a little higher
some dremelling makes quick work of it, this helped the hose to rise up about an inch above the power steering belt
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if anyone has said that the coyote is really stuffed in the engine bay, they aren't kidding
all the hoses up front really make me wonder how fun it will be someday to change the battery LOL

here's the lower hose, and upper hose connected
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next, let's add the overflow tank and get the lower hose connected, and all 3 mounts for the tank
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next, run the front hose (shortened a bit to fit the size) to the radiator spout
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and finally with the intake installed, we clocked the intake a bit to account for the heat shield (https://amzn.to/3zwV90B) which was recommended by Lund Tuning to minimize low speed air fluctuation for the MAF sensor
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once I get the heater valve installed and hoses run, we're pretty much ready to add fluids!

[Ted G]

Looking good and you are catching up with me! LOL

[toadster]

last night was a huge step forward, and pretty nerve racking!

Using the Type-65 Coupe A/C kit was a change we made some time back, unsure how usable it will be
We've had convertibles before and sometimes just some cool air really helps the trip - even if it's just hitting you and going right out the top

In our setup, we decided to place the A/C unit where the usual Roadster heater would go, this induced several mind-bending items that required a TON of modification
This ended up being way more than I would want to do but we were already down the rabbit hole

Here's a list of changes that we had to make to get this to work on the roadster


mount the condenser 'inverted (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?34952-25th-MKIV-9772-Build-NOR*CAL-fitting-heater-amp-A-C&p=521619&viewfull=1#post521619)' as compared to the coupe, not a big issue, but clearance is tight
the lower fitting for the condenser provided is a 45-degree and it's too wide so had to purchase a 90-degree, Dan Golub at FFR was super helpful
new part: Vintage Air 35832-VUG Beadlock O-Ring Fitting 90 Degree No 8


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locating the drier was interesting considering that the space in the engine bay is really tight

we think it's low enough to clear the hood struts, time will tell, may wait to fit the hoses post body fit but prior to paint
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fitting the evaporator of course required the hole to be cut in the FFMetal Firewall Forward, in between the FPR and wiper motor (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?34952-25th-MKIV-9772-Build-NOR*CAL-fitting-heater-amp-A-C&p=520120&viewfull=1#post520120)
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We also ran into issues of the depth of the A/C unit - it's a few inches longer, and during our engine install one of the guys recommended pulling the motor and flipping it

flipping the motor on the unit helped, but still had clearance issues - this is where we cut the angled part of ABS on the engine side (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?34952-25th-MKIV-9772-Build-NOR*CAL-fitting-heater-amp-A-C&p=520120&viewfull=1#post520120) of the unit to make it a flat mount
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next, we had to build a plate to mount the flipped motor, just a simple box shape and rivets and we were able to relocate the motor
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[toadster]

next, we had to modify the outputs, the FFR heater has side vents and the HVAC Sirocco Boreal unit has front ports

here's a pic of the heater vs the HVAC setup
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fortunately my son is into 3D printing and has an option to print ABS, we wouldn't have done this without this capability - very fortunate to have his skill and knowledge

in order to change the flow (while not optimal) we blocked the front ports and had to create side ports
first step was to cut out the ports leaving just the open space
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then he ABS printed fillers, and we then epoxied them in place
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we then realized that our prior mount for the Wilwood EPB unit would block the HVAC hoses behind the dash, so we relocated the unit to under the HVAC unit and now that we had the lower dash mount we could connect to that
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my son ABS printed some side ports that we would connect to the sides of the unit, they're 2.5" round and about .75" deep
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Next, the scary part... we had to use a hole saw and cut into the sides of the unit.
We couldn't use the drill bit chuck since he internal components are so close to the sides, we created a template with some board to keep the saw from jumping
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[toadster]

here's how the drill out worked - used a template part (non-ABS) for fitting, you can see in the 2nd pic how close the components are inside the case

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we have been fortunate enough to have an HVAC unit on loan from Ken Pike so we could use as a template for all this work - you can see the original unit (Top) vs our modified version (bottom)

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so the air that would normally go straight out the condenser, will now go forward, and push out the sides - there's about a 1.5-2" gap between the coils and the front of the box

we're hoping for a laminar flow since the vanes are 3/4 of the box and then can pressure push the air to the sides, there may be some turbulence, but the original box shape has space on the sides and front as well

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[toadster]

and finally - mounted in the FFMetal Firewall Forward
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it fits all around, doesn't hit the engine, or the engine cover, I'll probably have to bend the A/C ports a bit to deflect the A/C hoses away from the engine cover

I also had to get a Low Pressure Port fitting for the HVAC as the one provided in the kit is a 90-degree fitting which won't work, another $45 later and will mount it near the unit
I also had to bend the lower port fitting on the compressor to get about a 20 degree angle to clear the headers and engine without running into the 3/4" bar by the ECU as well

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for the A/C to be effective, the plan is to add 2 dash vents, and have 2 vents into the footbox as well - heat can be indirect, but A/C cooling works much better if it can be directed at the driver/passenger
snagged a few vents from Vintage Air with some chrome accents to better match the SpeedHut gauges

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we've been going hog wild on the dash wiring, and are double/triple checking things - should be able to start mounting and get this beast fired up!

[toadster]

determined that the drier was too high, so I attached to the F-panel, should be good for angles for the A/C lines and adapters now
I added some leftover pieces of thermo-tec behind the drier to minimize some vibration, not that it should matter, but gave some space for the hose clamp that holds the drier in place

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Installed the drip line for the condenser, basically formed a "Y" between the two side drains and have a single drop down just attached to the transmission A-frame
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also did a heater bypass since the space in the engine bay is closing in very quickly
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once the FPR is adjusted I plan on removing the bypass and attaching the octopus of a heater valve on the firewall... yikes!
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[toadster]

another productive day! I've read many of the threads from Edwardb and others on their Type65 builds with A/C, and while they're different cars - the tooling is the same.
I found an A/C crimping tool that is hydraulic based. It's heavy, but has portability which is different from the vice mounted version

Handheld Hydraulic Hose Crimping Tool Hydra-Krimp 71500 Manual A/C Hose Crimper Kit (https://amzn.to/3MJh0ts)


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Now that the condenser, drier and evaporator were in their final resting places, it was a matter of running hoses, trimming to size and crimping them up

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just to compare what we started with and what changed, I took the original diagram and added the modifications:

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green is carried over to the new design
yellow is a modified part or swapped with original
red has been removed
also note that there are a ton of blanks, meaning those parts weren't used, things like bulkhead fittings, and heater lines since the HVAC is in the engine bay
and the new #10 Low Pressure port was added to the mix as the provided 90 degree fitting doesn't work in this setup

the crimper worked great!
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and the final locations

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the crimps feel solid, will find out if they leak when I have to fill the system... fingers crossed all ports are good!

[toadster]

simple update, but feels like a step in the right direction

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here's what was used for fluids:
Engine Oil (Gen3 Coyote w/Moroso Pan): 10 quarts of Mobil 1 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-20 (https://amzn.to/3owhbON)
Coolant: about 3.5 gallons of water, and added 16oz. Rislone Hy-per Cool Super Coolant (https://amzn.to/3KSMtXx) through Moroso expansion tank
Power Steering (KRC Coyote Setup): Honda 08206-9002PE Power Steering Fluid (https://amzn.to/3mQqatz), used about 1.5 quarts
Transmission (Tremec TKX): 2.75 quarts of ACDelco 769476 GM Original Equipment 10-4006 Synchromesh Transmission Fluid (https://amzn.to/3Aci8yl)
Differential (2015+ Mustang IRS): Valvoline SynPower SAE 75W-140 Full Synthetic Gear Oil (https://amzn.to/3GW8inZ)2 qts, fill till overflow (comes with limited-slip additive already)
Forte Hydraulic Clutch & Front/Rear Brake system: Valvoline 601458 Brake Fluid (https://amzn.to/3UUAm0K) (topped off)

also hooked up the battery to the car for the first time - what a tremendous amount of clicks and sounds from the electronics! best part - NO SMOKE :)

we have some gremlins to chase down since that was our first full power on, should be ready to start the engine soon!

edit: we missed 3 leads to hook up to the battery... still no smoke ;) things seem to be working as expected!!

[toadster]

cleaned up more wiring behind the dash, still a bit of a rats nest, but improving - at least it all seems to be working as expected :)

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next, we trimmed the sides of the dash, tired of fighting the flex - and we drilled the A/C vent holes - prayerfully the last things we drill into the CF dash :)

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next we found a very slow leak on the Forte slave cylinder, the brass washer wasn't centered so there was about a 1 drip per day issue, replaced the washer and will check again tomorrow

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wired up the wiper motor
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hung the Gas'N sidepipes, and checked the FPR again, it's around 64-65 during pump prime now

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[toadster]

got a partial start (this was a few days ago) - will get the Lund Tune this week and try again


https://youtu.be/vaNWnxIe0ZI

on initial start (prior to this video) we did have a small gas leak - the FPR wasn't tightened down on the feed or return lines, some contortionism to get a wrench in there and tighten it up - but better now...

at least we know the CEL is working :) the factory tune didn't like that we have the CMCV valves removed and locked open, but the Lund tune should take care of that :)

getting closer!!!

[460.465USMC]

Right on, Todd! Yours fired up pretty fast. Congrats! I had to crank on my Gen3 (spurts of 5 sec or so) for many iterations to get to the first fire. Looking forward to your next video.

[Ted G]

Great Job! Can't wait to hear it rev!

[jiriza84641]

This build looks great, love it!

[toadster]

This build looks great, love it!

Thank you! Been struggling with the Coyote running properly, working with Ford Performance and LUND, had the ECU re-flashed by Ford, but still having some issues we're chasing down

[toadster]

it's been about a month since the last update, the biggest issue at hand is that the Gen3 coyote has had some interesting/frustrating issues

1. the engine runs, but only the passenger side (bank1) seems to be firing properly -gets up to 350/400F - the side pipes have that heat patina now
- bank2 (driver side) is getting spark, we tested all the coils with a NOID light (https://amzn.to/3Pl1aq4), tested continuity and resistance on 90% of the ECU harness - that's 345 potential ports
2. I sent in the ECU to have Ford re-flash the ECU - that took a week
3. Lund Tuning has about 20 logs - which shows these errors - I can't seem to clear the permanent codes, and there is no CEL/MIL indicator light
- we tested all plugs and coils, pulled each and fired - they're all getting spark


Basic PIDs: 44
Trouble Codes:
P0356 - Ignition Coil F Primary/Secondary Circuit (Permanent)
P0124 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor A Intermittent (Permanent)
P2017 - Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit High Bank 1 (Permanent)
P2022 - Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit High Bank 2 (Permanent)
P2008 - Intake Manifold Runner Control Circuit/Open Bank 1 (Permanent)

P2017, P2022 and P2008 should be non-issues since Lund tunes them out

every log shows that bank#2 (driver) is pegged lean - so either we have too much air, or not enough fuel

4. I asked ford to replace the O2 wire set since we added about 16" of wire to reach both O2 ports - that took a week as well
5. new O2 harness installed, this time I used a 24" O2 extension - same issues
6. Lund says to try to get another O2 sensor for bank2 (even though we've swapped O2 side to side) - so that will be here in a few days - but... the car isn't here :)
7. if the O2 sensor doesn't fix things (and I don't think it will to be honest) - I may have to take the car to a local tuner (AED)


TedG was getting his car back from paint, so we coordinated to take my car up to Ken Pike to get fitted (e.g. cut in the hood, doors, trunk, etc.)

in order to get the car up to Ken, I had to finish up a few things...
- I have the dash 95% complete, waiting on a new CF dash door and hinge setup from FFR, unfortunately being first has some pain points, there are different door hinges on the CF dash and I had the standard dash hinges - it was already epoxied together so I had to order a new door/plate
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- to drive the car onto the trailer, I needed to add the shifter and also adjusted the angle for the clutch safety switch, basically extended the angle where the switch plate would depress the switch
LOVE the shifter knob I got from Breeze a while back, I think this was his last one back then..
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torqued down the lugnuts and tested the clutch - and had the first gokart (albeit about 50 yards) to get into the trailer
Thanks to Travis (Fman) for loaning the trailer for us to use - such a great guy!

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another fun thing to fix is i have a pretty robust power steering leak - really noticed it when turning the rack, so that will be chased down when we get the car back in a few weeks

[JohnK]

Hey Todd, sorry to hear that you're still struggling with the coyote. Just a couple of thoughts from me on permanent DTC codes, as I had some fun with those myself. I was trying to troubleshoot a defective MIL and tried to induce a DTC by unplugging the MAF sensor. This generated a permanent DTC code along with a 'regular' DTC code (and the MIL came on once I got that working). I was able to clear the 'regular' DTC code and turn the MIL off but try as I might I couldn't clear the permanent DTC code. I discussed with Ford Performance and they offered to reflash the PCM to get rid of it. After reflashing, the permanent DTC code was still there. Apparently they are stored in a separate memory that can't be flashed. As it turns out, the only way to clear a permanent DTC code is to go through a specific driving sequence to 'prove' to the PCM that the issue has been resolved. Sometimes people report that just driving around for long enough will eventually get permanent DTC codes to clear.

Long story short - a permanent DTC code, in and of itself, is not an indication of a current problem and it's not surprising that they're still there even after Ford reflashed the PCM. If you clear all codes and re-run the engine and the 'regular' codes come back and the MIL comes on then you genuinely still have an issue. Clearly there's still something going on with your engine, but I wanted to pass this along so you're not chasing codes that may or may not mean anything at this point.

[ydousurf]

Yeah Todd, sorry to hear that you are experiencing some issues, but I think it's to be expected for all of us builders, in one way or another? I'm confident you will figure it all out, and soon you will be cruising and leaving behind all those headaches in the rear view mirror.

I also wanted to say "Nice work on the AC!" Adding Air Conditioning into the build is not for the faint-of-heart! I laugh at those who say it isn't necessary. More like, they couldn't do it! Several folks have asked me why I would add AC. I tell em... "Its because I can!" We can/We did! ;) It's no doubt very involved and takes the right type of builder to take on the option to add-it-in and pull it off successfully! I'm currently working through mine and I knew going into it, it would be a definte challenge. So, good on you for getting past that part!

Anyway, I can't wait to see your car completed and you having a blast putting on the miles, with of course, the never ending smiles. :D

Keep at it and we'll look forward to future updates once you are in final assembly. All best in these final steps towards graduation!

Doug

[toadster]

update, the car should be ready from body panel fit and rough-in this week

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edit: another week out

[Ted G]

Looking forward to seeing it back in your garage

[toadster]

ready to pick up tomorrow, then back at it!!!

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https://imgur.com/vTGulKJ

[BradC]

Nice!! Back in business!

[toadster]

back in the stable! got the chassis back from Ken today! Thanks to Fman again for his trailer usage!!

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first step that I knew had to be fixed was a REALLY bad power steering leak, of course - excited to get back on the car after 3 months, I forwent some precautions...

https://i.ibb.co/9GRHfWR/71591364991-76-DFC388-EB8-B-49-F4-8-E69-BEDA8-A3-AB585.jpg (https://ibb.co/9GRHfWR) 189882

after thinking, I should have gloves on - BAM! a nice divot - so a little scrub/Band-Aid later - i found the culprit for the P/S leak

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fortunately I already ordered the Dorman 82540 Power Steering Caps - Power Steering Sealing Washer Assortment (https://amzn.to/44IeDwo) $2.69 to fix $20 of P/S fluid all over Ken's parking lot - Sorry Ken!

will refill and test, today was an 8 hour day of travelling/loading/unloading - and my eagerness got the best of my hand, so taking a break tonight :)

update: the 2nd washer failed, and leaked even worse - ended up using an M10 Copper Metric Sealing Washer (https://amzn.to/46DfCiw) - all better now!

[toadster]

Autozone warrantied my dead battery - was a whopping 1.4V

can’t complain - new battery and 2 more years of warranty!
Only had to remove the two breeze battery mount nuts and remove the PS return line to get the battery out :cool:
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[cv2065]

also wired up the Breeze quick-disconnect harness for the rear lights tonight :)

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Build is looking great! Does the chrome frame pull apart from the light if you wanted to powder coat it?