My Official GTM Build Thread!

[LCD Gauges]

Fair enough, it's a little premature (no comment) but this is the very beginning of it all! This poor sucker
will have the task of hauling the GTM home this Saturday. Hopefully the FF cars are more fun to assemble
than trailer hitches!


http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/305386_10150416463529148_505744147_10659364_599897 7_n.jpg
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/308291_10150416463354148_505744147_10659360_595397 6_n.jpg

One thing I've learned and still get burned...universal fit usually means, "cut, drill and stand on head". This
job was no exception. Drilled the frame to relocate two bolt holes and then cut the bumper mounts to clear
the hitch flange.

Fun stuff. Check back this weekend for pics and updates on the GTM!
Peace,
Tino

[riptide motorsport]

Gotta start somewhere.........get er done!

[crash]

Welcome to the madness.

Try and get some sleep these next few nights. :)

[VD2021]

Tino,
Cool. I'm sure you're not missing that camaro one bit..... Let the fun begin.:)

[afourcault]

congrats bro! cant wait till the day i stand in your shoes. maybe after this next deployment.

[Roger Reid]

Tino, welcome to the madness. Wait, am I the only sane one here? On the other hand there was that leftnfast guy:)

[LCD Gauges]

Thank you all! I'm looking forward to finally becoming a part of this crazy, dysfunctional and
somewhat "finally broke" family. :cool:

I'll do my best to get to sleep tonight, but I can't promise about tomorrow.

[LCD Gauges]

I can't believe it's sitting in my garage! GTM #105 has a proud new owner as of today. We drove from Cambridge to Callander, Ontario in
a ten hour round drip drive to pick up the beast.


We had quite a few confused stares on the drive home as people tried to figure out what type of car I was hauling. Lots of
thumbs-up and horns. We stopped twice for gas at highway service stations, and the trailer was swarmed by curious on-lookers.
Some kid even took a picture...which was strange because it was all taped up and stuffed with boxes. It was a cool feeling;
all the questions and compliments. I almost felt like a FF salesperson with the info sessions! ;)

It was a great day, awesome weather and nice to meet Alain and Dave who were a big help getting the car onto the trailer and ready for
travel. Below is a video link of some scenery along the way, and our adventure getting the car from crate to trailer:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L8Kialru1lA

I am still wired from the events of today. Instead of going to sleep, I just unpacked the entire car and checked out the contents. This kit
is going to be a BLAST to build. I'm very impressed!

[LCD Gauges]

My first build question!

What do you find is the best method to knock down the edge/flashing from the body molding?

Also wondering if there's a good thread on general body work tips for fiberglass prep.

I know very little about prepping, priming, painting.

[Presto51]

WOW Your fast, just took delivery and already onto bodywork and paint :)

On the other forum members STL-Scott and Dan Ruth have documented a lot about body/paint work

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/230701-started-body-work-6583-a.html

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/120-factory-five-33-hot-rod-forum-sponsored-e-t-wheels/268652-dangerous-curves-ahead.html

[LCD Gauges]

Thanks for the links. I'll continue to search, but there's just so much to read! Hopefully someone can show me what tool they used to knock down/cut the flashing without wrecking the body itself.

[VD2021]

THis is what I have gatherered so far. Depending on how good the seam is there are a few ways to tackle the seams. If the seam is good you can block the area on either side and this will bring it level with the surrounding area. If you're good with a DA you can use it instead. Then you can address the seam with a rotary tool. You only want to go until you hit the fg. The better the seam the less of a groove you'll leave for filler. The worst areas are usually the side scoop, hood latch and B pillar areas.

I am very close to starting this part of the body work and the above is what I have gathered from the other forum as well as some direct Q&A from some members and my painter. I am not a paint/body guy. HTHs.

[crash]

Um, I don't think it advisable to use the rotary tool. You certainly want to take the seam down, and there may end up being areas that come up low and need some filler, but I would not go down to fiberglass with a rotary file on a body that you want to use as a finished product. If you can get the seams down while avoiding going entirely through the gel coat, I think I would do that. Just my opinion though.

[LCD Gauges]

Thanks guys. I know it's a little bit early, but there is a great deal of work ahead of me. I want to make sure there's enough information under my cap before the work starts.

I'll do my best to avoid cutting too deep. My thought is to chop down the excess material and leave a little hump, and then
block it down. There must be some detailed YouTube videos on Fiberglass prep along with member 'how-to' threads.

Let the reading begin!

[dbusa]

I use roloc pads 3" - with course sanding discs , knock down the ridges, block sand to level/ smooth. Look closely for any voids (where trapped air bubbles are) most of them are in fiberglass / gel coat interface layer. You want to open those up and fill with a quality filler - rage has been highly reccommended - Most of the time , I use an epoxy resin thickened with various fillers -( west system for example) micro fibers, micro balloons, etc, - as most of the ridges/ seams are just the parting line / not an actual joint between to separate pieces - most of your work is fairing, not structural. other than filling the voids. Once that is sanded down and you're happy with feel , epoxy prime - (either reg or high build as necessary - block sand, prime as necessary, ( if you've sanded through the primer) - then primer/sealer per paint manufacture specs. What ever fillers you use - allow enough time for shrinkage - full cure and sealed with a good primer coat. You will be going through the gel coat in some areas - it can't be helped. If you go too deep - widen the area and rebuild with fiberglass cloth/ mat , sand back to level, then apply body fillers / skim coat . I think street rod painter has some tips on the other forum - you'll also find a bunch of information on marine repair forums - as the majority of boats are fiberglass - your average body shop deals with steel bodied autos and may not be as well versed in fiberglass prep - and the materials selection - Take your time and when you think you've got it sanded perfectly smooth ( the primer)
give it another go over with the block - (wet sanding)

[VD2021]

Um, I don't think it advisable to use the rotary tool. You certainly want to take the seam down, and there may end up being areas that come up low and need some filler, but I would not go down to fiberglass with a rotary file on a body that you want to use as a finished product. If you can get the seams down while avoiding going entirely through the gel coat, I think I would do that. Just my opinion though.

Crash,
I definitely see what you're getting at. I've seen some of the roadster guy’s seams that look like ditches.

Overall my body's seams are pretty good so there's no need to create a ditch in most of the seams, however there are the areas that are not level between the two mated pieces and then there's the side scoop area. That's why it’s good to start by blocking the area to level the excess to the surroundings. Then you can inspect what you have and how best to proceed. I don't know of a more effective way to get the mold release wax out of the voids in the seams in the side scoop surfaces. This so far has been the worst area.

It's my understanding that the lightweight filler used on the seams should be applied to fg and not gel coat.

Again, I'm not a body/paint and this is what I've gathered from the forum and direct member Q&A.

[VD2021]

I use roloc pads 3" - with course sanding discs , knock down the ridges, block sand to level/ smooth. Look closely for any voids (where trapped air bubbles are) most of them are in fiberglass / gel coat interface layer. You want to open those up and fill with a quality filler - rage has been highly reccommended - Most of the time , I use an epoxy resin thickened with various fillers -( west system for example) micro fibers, micro balloons, etc, - as most of the ridges/ seams are just the parting line / not an actual joint between to separate pieces - most of your work is fairing, not structural. other than filling the voids. Once that is sanded down and you're happy with feel , epoxy prime - (either reg or high build as necessary - block sand, prime as necessary, ( if you've sanded through the primer) - then primer/sealer per paint manufacture specs. What ever fillers you use - allow enough time for shrinkage - full cure and sealed with a good primer coat. You will be going through the gel coat in some areas - it can't be helped. If you go too deep - widen the area and rebuild with fiberglass cloth/ mat , sand back to level, then apply body fillers / skim coat . I think street rod painter has some tips on the other forum - you'll also find a bunch of information on marine repair forums - as the majority of boats are fiberglass - your average body shop deals with steel bodied autos and may not be as well versed in fiberglass prep - and the materials selection - Take your time and when you think you've got it sanded perfectly smooth ( the primer)
give it another go over with the block - (wet sanding)

D,
If using Rage do you recommend blocking down to the fg? Do the voids you expose need to have the fg exposed? I'm doing the body work myself and want to have a solid job when done. Thanks.

[dbusa]

D,
If using Rage do you recommend blocking down to the fg? Do the voids you expose need to have the fg exposed? I'm doing the body work myself and want to have a solid job when done. Thanks.

it is recommended to take the area being repaired, filled or faired down to bare glass - for the best adhesion. usually in a mold the gel coat is apllied and allowed to tack up, and then the fiberglass is laid. The gel coat and fiberglass cure together thus creating a bond between the two - or you could say gel coat sticks to fiberglass , fiberglass doesn't stick to gelcoat . also note that when bonding to a cured part, with the intial part being laid up using polyester resins ( such as the body) the secondary bond strength can be improved by using a better grade resin - such as some hybrid polyesters, then vinylester or the best being epoxies . The price goes up pretty quickly - for example in my area a gal of marine boatyard resin is about 20, the better quality or hybrid
polyesters can triple that, the vinylester runs me between 60 -80 a gal and the epoxies 125 and up -

I haven't used Rage - just know it is highly recommended for use on fiberglass - As I do most of my work with epoxies. However, I have used in the past LSC, Tigerhair for rough filling and the better quality surfacers - I prefer to finish coat with an epoxy/ fairing compound, and no matter what , I always use an epoxy primer - mostly awlgrip 545 - and I have topcoated that with base/ clear, imron, ppg dbu, sterling or awlgrip .

Unless you are doing a lot of body mods, such as widening the fenders , radiator ducting, or re scuplting the body - a one gal kit should be more than enough if you mix and use in small batches. The West system will probably be the easiest for you and they have a pretty good user guide manual - the 403 is not a bad all round filler and the 410 mixed with the epoxy resin is a very good fairing compound, mix and use in small quantitys too avoid excessive heat - that
creates air bubbles, which leaves pinholes- we don't want that. hth

[LCD Gauges]

I'll admit:

- I didn't even try to search

- I'm only about 1/4 way through the GTM manual

I'm trying to pick-up from where the previous owner left off , and it appears we're at the stage of
wiring the steering column harness.

I've search through the hundreds of boxes and baggies but cannot find the mating end. Perhaps this
is why there is a Painless Wiring kit included with the car.

Is the Painless Wiring kit part of the GTM package when ordering from the factory?

Also wondering if there are keys, door key locks, and a steering column lock? Maybe the owner has them, or I'm supposed to buy these separately...

This particular column does not appear to have a lock cylinder. In the area that I would expect
to find a key, there is a toggle switch. Perhaps this column is meant for a push-button start deal?

382038213822
I've already sent a message to the previous owner who should be able to set me
straight, but I likely wont hear back until later tonight. A quick reply to get me
back to work will be very appreciated! :cool:

Last one: Has anyone found the steering linkage to be too long? I had to remove
the inner locking nut to align the front tires. This is temporary of course; I'll likely
drill and tap through the sleeve, or check the passenger side to see if it will fit
3823

[mmaragos]

The only key from FFR is the ignition key (they provide the ignition cylinder and key). There are no keys for the door locks, etc. Some have made the Corvette locks functional, but you will need the Corvette keys. I believe most have not done this. I shaved my door handles and will be using solenoids and poppers.

Steering linkage is too long. Bore and tap or cut the threaded rod from the rack. Both solutions have been done.

[VD2021]

I'll admit:

- I didn't even try to search

- I'm only about 1/4 way through the GTM manual

I'm trying to pick-up from where the previous owner left off , and it appears we're at the stage of
wiring the steering column harness.

I've search through the hundreds of boxes and baggies but cannot find the mating end. Perhaps this
is why there is a Painless Wiring kit included with the car.

Is the Painless Wiring kit part of the GTM package when ordering from the factory?

Also wondering if there are door key looks, and a steering column lock?

This particular column does not appear to have a lock cylinder. In the area that I would expect
to find a key, there is a toggle switch. Perhaps this column is meant for a push-button start deal?

382038213822
I've already sent a message to the previous owner who should be able to set me
straight, but I likely wont hear back until later tonight. A quick reply to get me
back to work will be very appreciated! :cool:

Last one: Has anyone found the steering linkage to be too long? I had to remove
the inner locking nut to align the front tires. This is temporary of course; I'll likely
drill and tap through the sleeve, or check the passenger side to see if it will fit
3823

T,

*Yes Sir. An 18 Circuit GM Column Painless Wiring Kit is included with the kit.
*No door locks. However the latches do have a mech that you are instructed to remove before installing. Many go with "shaved handles" and poppers.
*The portion of the steering wheel lock that the pin would go through is removed with the airbag. So you will not have a column lock.
*The corvette steering column does not house the ignition switch. In the corvette it resided above your right knee. The switch on the column housing is for the telesoping function of the column.

*You will have to shorten the rods on the steering rack.

[LCD Gauges]

I love you guys...in a non-sexual internet kinda way! ;)

[VD2021]

I love you guys...in a non-sexual internet kinda way! ;)

T,
That's funny LOL.

Now hurry up so we can see some building progess on the "My Official GTM Build Thread!".

On a serious note. You're doing the right thing by going through the manual and inspecting what's been done. If you haven't, I would highly suggest you read the "Links to $64K Questions" on the other forum as well. It will let you know alot of what you'll be facing and answer many, many questions.

[LCD Gauges]

Thanks, I'll check out that link later tonight.

I'd love to post up some progress pictures, but most of the good stuff has already been assembled. I just spent two days (a few hours) sorting all of the
parts in the boxes/bags so I know where to find certain items as the book calls for them. Before doing that it would have been a nightmare to search through
everything!

Right now, I'll be fighting with wiring for the most part, so there's not much to show. Perhaps I'll post some picures of the routing and fastening when it's
all tucked away.

Thanks again for the quick replies & help earlier (both of you). This forum has been great with facts and tips!

[LCD Gauges]

Another day of inaction...

Most of the "work" done on this car has been dedicated to sorting through boxes and organizing the parts. Today I tried installing the e-brake, but the screw clips are MIA. The cables have been routed, so it wasn't
a total loss. I'll have to buy some washers, nuts and hardware from the local Home Depot tomorrow in order to move ahead.

At least now I've visually identified all of the parts and placed them around the car so I'll know where to find them when needed. All of the aluminum panels have been stacked in numerical order as well. Better luck
next round to assemble the car.

Total build time thus far: 30 mins. :rolleyes:

38453846384738483849

[LCD Gauges]

Today I finally made some headway on the build. The steering column wiring was sorted, routed, cut to length and soldered/heat shrunk into place.
Quite a long process, but I want to keep it neat and tidy as I'm going along. Some of the extra switches on the cruise stalk are sparking some
ideas. These buttons may be used to trigger certain custom features (IE: "Set" = push button start, R/A = LCD monitor mode cycling).

I'm also toying with a circuit that will retract the telescopic column when the ignition is cut, and slide it back to a user set position when the
ignition wires are charged. I'll see how feesible such a circuit will be once everything is powered up and I learn how it operates. If nothing else,
it will make it easier to get in and out of the car.

Just a couple of photos (boring...I know).
Total build time: 2 hours

39393940

[VD2021]

Today I finally made some headway on the build. The steering column wiring was sorted, routed, cut to length and soldered/heat shrunk into place.
Quite a long process, but I want to keep it neat and tidy as I'm going along. Some of the extra switches on the cruise stalk are sparking some
ideas. These buttons may be used to trigger certain custom features (IE: "Set" = push button start, R/A = LCD monitor mode cycling).

I'm also toying with a circuit that will retract the telescopic column when the ignition is cut, and slide it back to a user set position when the
ignition wires are charged. I'll see how feesible such a circuit will be once everything is powered up and I learn how it operates. If nothing else,
it will make it easier to get in and out of the car.

Just a couple of photos (boring...I know).
Total build time: 2 hours

39393940


T,
Good stuff.

The SCM held the circuit for the column in the corvette. There are 3 memory positions and entry/exit assist.

If you'll be using a stock PCM you can use your cruise control.

[LCD Gauges]

Cool, I didn't know it had entry/exit assist. Something tells me there's no SCM with this kit (steering control module?); I'm
assuming it's some sort of box with pin harness. Does anyone have a photo of this bad-boy?

If it's not too expensive, I'll grab one from the dealer/or used, otherwise I will design something similar.

A stock PCM is the most likely choice, but I'm not sure that I'l be using drive-by-wire throttle body.

Thanks for the info.

[VD2021]

Cool, I didn't know it had entry/exit assist. Something tells me there's no SCM with this kit (steering control module?); I'm
assuming it's some sort of box with pin harness. Does anyone have a photo of this bad-boy?

If it's not too expensive, I'll grab one from the dealer/or used, otherwise I will design something similar.

A stock PCM is the most likely choice, but I'm not sure that I'l be using drive-by-wire throttle body.

Thanks for the info.

The SCM is mounted under the driver's seat in the corvette. I have mine in the tunnel. I moved it up to take the picture. I kept it from my donor so I wouldn't know the cost. I took a close up of the tag for the part number. HTHs.

[LCD Gauges]

There is a black plastic box with similar looking harness connections; again thanks for taking the photo.

This week has been nuts with family events, but thankfully it's all coming to a hault. Today I finally had a couple of hours to mess
around with the car. I managed to pull the body away from the cage which makes working up front much easier. I'll eventually
hang the body to the ceiling of my garage, but for now it's posted against the rear tires.


A couple of photos for the brake switch and mounting bracket, along with ignition wires. My plan is to find some quality looking toggles
and pushbutton instead of using a key to start the motor. Total build time 3.5 hours.

409740984099410041014102

[LCD Gauges]

Finally getting into some of the good stuff. I made a temporary template for the gauges and tied them with marettes to make sure
everything works before the hard-wiring begins.

If all goes well, all of the non-engine wiring will be complete by month end with neatly tucked loom. I'm also toying with some ideas
to design a warning indicator for engine sensors that are approaching their hazard zones (IE: high temp., low oil pressure, low fuel, etc.).
This would be separate from the PCM malfunction indicator (MIL).

Even cooler is to install a keypad that requires a code in order to start the motor. I'll need to find some fancier buttons, and LED's
to make it look nice.

Here's a short video of where I'm at now:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ovKXIDKPHts

4443
illuminated keypad $20 44904444

[LCD Gauges]

Another small roadblock that I'm hoping the experienced builders can help with!

I'm trying to wire up the fog light and hazard light switches. They appear to be a momentary type push button;

they are Apem A0152B series like this:
4503

Having purchased a used kit, I'm getting the feeling I don't have all the necessary parts or instructions for assembly.
The large Factory Five GTM manual doesn't appear to have specifics on the wiring for these.

My guess is that the switch output connects to a module, and the module activates a relay for the flashers and fog lights
Correct? Can someone please direct me to a thread that details the wiring for these switches and/or a diagram for the module
and the pin-outs?

The best search yielded this thread:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?1695-Corvette-Instrument-Panel-in-my-Gen2-GTM-Build&highlight=Hazard+switch

I gather I'm missing some harnesses and some control modules? The only component I have is a small module that looks like this:

4504

Could this be the one? Wiring diagram anyone?
Thanks,
Tino

[VD2021]

Another small roadblock that I'm hoping the experienced builders can help with!

I'm trying to wire up the fog light and hazard light switches. They appear to be a momentary type push button;

they are Apem A0152B series like this:
4503

Having purchased a used kit, I'm getting the feeling I don't have all the necessary parts or instructions for assembly.
The large Factory Five GTM manual doesn't appear to have specifics on the wiring for these.

My guess is that the switch output connects to a module, and the module activates a relay for the flashers and fog lights
Correct? Can someone please direct me to a thread that details the wiring for these switches and/or a diagram for the module
and the pin-outs?

The best search yielded this thread:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?1695-Corvette-Instrument-Panel-in-my-Gen2-GTM-Build&highlight=Hazard+switch

I gather I'm missing some harnesses and some control modules? The only component I have is a small module that looks like this:

4504

Could this be the one? Wiring diagram anyone?
Thanks,
Tino

Tino,
I didn't use the painless so I can only help you with the switches pin-outs if you need it. However I would highly suggest you look at Spytech's site. Do a search there for flasher or switch. I would also suggest a search on the other forum. I'm certain you'll find your answer. HTHs.

There was an electronic update to the manual and the new manual has the fog and hazard instruction. It's too large to attach here.

[The Stig]

SpyTech has the Hazard switch documented in his build log. On the right side of his page, click on "wiring". Scroll down to the bottom and there is an section that explains which wires to match up to wire it correctly.

http://www.gtm-supercar.com/?cat=34
Show how he wired his head lights, fog lights, tail lights

http://www.gtm-supercar.com/?cat=11
Shows how the dash, stereo, and gauges were wired. Scroll to the bottom, and you'll see his instruction for the Hazard Lights.

Take Care,

Mike

[LCD Gauges]

Thank you MIke and Vidal. I will browse these pages more carefully later this evening. Upon a quick look at the instructions
of the Hazard wiring, I don't believe my problem will be resolved.

My switch seems to give a pulsed, momentary output to the centre pin (#2) when pushing the button. Whenever I release
the button the signal to pin #2 is lost (but the hat will stay down and illuminate the LED).

This may be the wrong switch ; I don't think the relay will continue to supply power to the hazard lights with a momentary
type button. Maybe I'll make a video to explain.

Great site links, thanks again for the quick reply!

[LCD Gauges]

Here is a quick video of the switch function. The Hazard and Fog Lamp siwtch work the same way.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T0mYPTKQ-kQ

I'll either need to build a latch circuit to hold the switch state, or resort to using a continuous latch type switch to
activate the relay (correct?).

[spytech]

The switch should power pin 2 continuously when it is pressed in. Is your switch fully 'clicked together'? The inner pins look too short. The switch pins are slightly diff than what the Gen 1 used, but here is a pic from my build log:

http://www.gtm-supercar.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/img_6215.jpg

[LCD Gauges]

I agree.

It's clear that these switches are the wrong type compared to your part number and photo. I'll see about building a latch circuit because I don't think getting
them swapped for the proper type is an option. Perhaps I can order them through a local electronics supplier.

[VD2021]

Tino,
Can you seperate the two? Both the hat portion and the other part should be latching switches. Seperate the two and test it by itself. And since it hasthree additional pins I would test them too. We not the hat it latching. I think the other part is not and the hat's post is backing uff just enough for the connection to go back to open.

Oh and thinks for the shoutout.

[LCD Gauges]

I'll give it a shot when I get home; both the Fog Lamp and Hazard switch are doing the same thing.

Chances of both being faulty are slim, but who knows?! Hopefully the odds will be in my favour!

[VD2021]

Tino,
I'm 99.9% sure that the problem is the hat switches pin is backing off a little to much. My kit has the Apem A0152A for the hazard and fog. But the switch I purchased from Shane for my push button start has the Apem A0152B. Both are monmentary so it's the hat that is holding the pin for latched operation. When you get a chance seperate the two and you should see that holdiing it down yeilds the results you need.

I would either buy a set of Apem A0152A or see if I could add some material to allow the hat to keep the switch down.

[LCD Gauges]

Vidal, you are such a great help!

You were 100% correct about the switch and I wish I had read this sooner. I was so convinced that the switches were wrong that
I ran out and grabbed some parts to build a latch circuit. Who would have thought two switches acting the same way had similar issues?!

Again, your diagnosis was correct. Here are two photos of the before/after of the APEM parts. Hopefully this will save someone else
some hassle.

Notice how close the base of the switch and collar are to each other:
4529
Now the previous photo taken. Notice the gap between the base and actuator in this photo:


4530

Thanks again, and again! Tomorrow I should have most of the panel wiring complete!

[LCD Gauges]

Most of the steering column and instrument panel wiring is complete now. All switches, lights, and horn are working. Aside from the
cruise control and windshield wiper electrical (which I do not have yet), everything checks out.

For those looking to clean up the nest of wires behind the instrument cluster, check out the buss bars that I found at a local electronics
store. Four of these are available for use in areas where several grounds and +12 VDC connections are required. I'll get some before and
after shots of the wire routing soon.
4648

For those wanting some nicer alternatives to the LED's, here are some chrome housed lights which are a bit larger than those supplied
with the kit
4649

Here is another option I found on the "other site" (< I hate that) which I'm going to inquire about:
http://www.newvintageusa.com/images/90938-03.jpg

Not quite OEM looking, but better than those tiny LED's in my opinion.

[VD2021]

Tino,
Great progress. Keep the updates coming.

[LCD Gauges]

Long time no post, or work. Another slow week with the GTM, but I've managed to tie all of the tunnel wires and
rear end wires with loom. There isn't too much else that I can firm up until the remainder of the donor parts are
purchased, and the motor arrives.

For now I think I'll treat the aluminum panels with paint and some sort of absorption material to keep the interior
quiet. Maybe some body work is in my near future!

51545155515651575158

[VD2021]

Oh yes, progess.

[VD2021]

Tino,
Any updates?

[LCD Gauges]

Hi Vidal, thanks for checking up on me.

These past two weeks have been busy as I'm changing jobs and looking to relocate. I'm currently checking options for an engine right now,
and picking up some switches for the interior and hole saws to begin the front light install.

Hopefully I"ll have some progress photos uploaded by the end of the week.

How about yourself?

[VD2021]

Hi Vidal, thanks for checking up on me.

These past two weeks have been busy as I'm changing jobs and looking to relocate. I'm currently checking options for an engine right now,
and picking up some switches for the interior and hole saws to begin the front light install.

Hopefully I"ll have some progress photos uploaded by the end of the week.

How about yourself?

I worked on my gauge bezel, added some material to the LH hood horizontal and adjusted my doors a week+ ago, but didn't find any time this past week end.

[LCD Gauges]

I'm not looking forward to aligning the doors. Did you manage to get everything setup without too much frustration?

This weekend, I spent a bit of time with the headlight assembly as I'm waiting for parts to arrive. The lamp bores only required
slight massaging to get the lights to fit properly. I'm searching for close-up photos of light installs, so if anyone has some
progress photos, or completed close-ups,please link them. Spytech's site has some cool shots, but nothing of the front side
that I can find.

Tomorrow I'll be picking up the hood hinges which will allow me to get the front end started.

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/292005_10150503573114148_505744147_11225282_855390 728_n.jpg
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/301625_10150503573224148_505744147_11225283_271693 862_n.jpg
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/314546_10150503576654148_505744147_11225299_137488 2709_n.jpg

[VD2021]

I initially had the doors too low and in. Tom (Thomas#142) looked at them and immediately noticed because of the front upper section (the area that requires a larger gap). Tom gets all the credit here. We also used a set of 1/2" door strikers that Tom put on the lathe to make the head thinner. I needed it for the passenger side and we matched it on the driver's.

No garage time this week end. I'm going to try to finish my gauge bezel this week by grabbing 30 minutes to an hour late evenings this week. My goal now is to work through the interior. This includes a full mock-up.

My kit arrived with the holes for all three lights. They were slightly undersized which was fine, but the passenger side low beam hole location is too high and toward the center.

[LCD Gauges]

It's starting to take shape now. The hood is positioned, and ready for mounting.

I wont be able to align anything until the body is back on the frame, but at least I can start
some minor body work and layout the front end components.


Pics of the hood, hinges, and rubber seal. I'll have to adjust the ride height as there's way
too much space between the tire and fender.

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/315985_10150506956714148_505744147_11245801_182092 8006_n.jpg

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/309518_10150506957044148_505744147_11245803_213692 7517_n.jpg</a>
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/293549_10150506956064148_505744147_11245792_184189 0546_n.jpg</a> (http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/293549_10150506956064148_505744147_11245792_184189 0546_n.jpg)

[LCD Gauges]

The hood is mounted to the hinges; it looks pretty straight but we'll see what happens when the body gets installed.

Fog lights? What the heck is with the bracket and lens protruding outside of the pocket? Is this they way it's supposed to be,
or do I have the wrong lights? Either way, I'm thinking new lamps are in my future. I'll have to round up some photos and check
how the rest of the cars look.

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/317445_10150512425454148_505744147_11277167_996281 493_n.jpg
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/392561_10150512425624148_505744147_11277171_172685 5775_n.jpg
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/312866_10150512425969148_505744147_11277180_188574 0727_n.jpg

[LCD Gauges]

Another fun aspect of the kit car build is the progress documentation. I had to follow suit and start up a web page. Right now it's just a small graphic, and some
text.

Eventually, I'll make it all pretty and upload the pics, videos, etc.

For those that want to follow along, here's the link:

www.streetlegalracecar.ca

[LCD Gauges]

Today was probably the coolest day of the build stage. An engine source has been found, and the specs are getting worked out. I called a buddy who owns a machine shop to get stock on LS short block assemblies. He said none were available, but to call Bob at Hilton Motorsports.

When I called the shop, Bob answered and we started talking like gear heads talk. When I told him I was building a GTM he said, "Oh yes, I've
built a couple of motors for those cars." At first I thought, no way: he either misunderstood the name of the car, or he just wanted to sound
like he knew it all.

Well, it turns out he actually did build engines for GTM's and it happened to be the former owner of my car (Alain), and his friend Dave whom I both
met in August when buying the kit. Talk about going full circle?! After a few more minutes on the phone I told Bob I'd head over to his shop.

When I opened the door, I walked into heaven. This shop looked like the set of Body Coddington's reality series, "American Hot Rod". 67-69 Camaro's, a Top fuel dragster, Bel Air, Nova, etc. You get the idea. When the employees found out I was building a GTM, I suddenly became
royalty. A few guys flocked around and chatted about the build, my progress and expected completion date. They were all interested in seeing the
car and wanted me to send photos. They also want me to bring the car to their shop when it's done to take pictures.

Bob has been around, and knows his stuff. He wouldn't sell me a short block unfortuantely. It was all, or nothing. For the prices he quoted,
I'm not going to complain. Originally I was going to assemble the motor myself and get parts through my suppliers (I used to build for a living).
After getting to know the shop and seeing the quality of their work, I have no problems handing the torch over to a more experienced builder
(even if it will cost me a little more in the end). Bob even offered to have me drop by and help build the motor! Too freakin' cool! I'm looking
forward to working along side a seasoned pro and learning from each other (most likely learning from him).

If all goes well, the engine will be ready by early Decemeber. That gives me more than enough time to prep the chassis for drop-in.

This car has changed my life. This is just one cool story of many that have happened since buying the GTM. I'll post more about my experiences
in the General Discussion forum for those who are interested.

P.S. Major GTM work session starting tomorrow through Sunday! It will be the most consecutive and productive chunk of time dedicated
to the build thus far. Updates to come!

[LCD Gauges]

Looks like I'll be using a 6.0L, LQ9 (iron block), 10.5:1 SCR for the build. Haven't nailed down valve events yet, but the cam will likely be
in the 0.6" lift range and 246'ish' duration based on head flow and rough header dimension calcs. I'll have to get some specs before it's
too late!

After tuning, I'm hoping to make a modest 450 HP. We'll see what the cam and springs will allow for max RPM. Should be a fun bit of
power for the total build weight! :eek:

[LCD Gauges]

Installed the hood shocks, and passenger fog lamp. Also did some prep on the light buckets, and started knocking down the body flashing. More of the same
tomorrow and Sunday. I'll have to call on "Crash" for his expertise on body work before going ahead too far.

The motor should be ready by the end of this month according to the builder (originally mid December). Cool for me!

600760086009

[VD2021]

Here's a technique. Try to block the "flashing" slowly taking it down going 3-5 inches to either side. This technique will keep you from creating a valley and making more work for yourself than is necessary. You can go 40-60 grit to knock down the stuff like in your picture. Then you can move to 80 grit on a long block for the majority and an appropriate block for the others.



I did the sections over both rear wheels last night.

[LCD Gauges]

Thanks for the tips Big V (< that's your new nick name).

I'll add that to my list of "how to" before going onto the next stage of body work. At the moment, I'm still leaving a bit of
a ridge that will be low enough to block down.

I've been doing a bit of research on the site, and Google/YouTube to get more info and learn some better techniques. If
you don't mind I'm going to start a new thread on Body work specifics so that everyone starting out, including myself
can reference the page.

[VD2021]

Thanks for the tips Big V (< that's your new nick name).

I'll add that to my list of "how to" before going onto the next stage of body work. At the moment, I'm still leaving a bit of
a ridge that will be low enough to block down.

I've been doing a bit of research on the site, and Google/YouTube to get more info and learn some better techniques. If
you don't mind I'm going to start a new thread on Body work specifics so that everyone starting out, including myself
can reference the page.

Tino,
That's funny. That's the nick name I had in college.

I've gathered quite a bit of info on body work and GTM specific body work. I'm also in that stage of the build. I've actually learned the most working hands-on with Tom (Thomas#142) on my GTM. I'll add to your other thread soon.

[LCD Gauges]

I'm away from home as I've relocated for a new job. It's killing me to postpone work on the GTM throughout the week, especially when
the motor is due to arrive next weekend. :(

With most of my spare time only available to weekends, it's going to be a challenge to have this car ready to drop the motor before
the New Year. With that time, I still have to consider what a regular day will bring, as well as packing up the house for the big move
in January.

While I'm away from home, I continue to mentally work on the car and build up my web site. It's progress, but not on the car unfortunately.
Feel free to check out the updates on the web page. It's obviously not complete as you'll notice instantly; the buttons resolve to temporary
pages as place holders.

The basic design is pretty much laid out, but I'll be adding more content on the splash page, as well as some animation for the buttons.

www.streetlegalracecar.ca (http://www.streetlegalracecar.ca)

Hopefully everyone else is getting more work done than I am these days!
Tino

[LCD Gauges]

duplicate

[LCD Gauges]

My thread is on page three, shame on me. It's a reflection of how little I've worked
on this car, and maybe a sign of more to come.

The engine will be ready by early January '12. I told the builder to hold off because
I needed more time to prep. the car. I'm moving on the 27th of Jan. and the car
will be in storge until April (which is when the other house is ready).

It's pretty much safe to state that my GTM will not be ready for Spring 2012 :confused:

On the bright side, my wife has a sense of humour and thought some white fuzzy
dice would go well on the rear view mirror. Not a chance! The high volume, low
pressure spray gun will certainly come in handy though. Everything else is getting
returned in exchange for some sandpaper and filler.

70137014

All of tomorrow and some of Tuesday will be spent in the garage. Time to step
up my game and make up for lost time before I have to put this toy away.

HOpe you all had a good Christmas and have been plugging away on your cars!

[LCD Gauges]

Some good news for once! The motor is ready and I was able to stop by and snap some photos. This combo makes about 400 HP with stock PCM tuning and OEM exhaust.
I'm hoping to dial-in about 30-50 HP with HP Tuners and a tuned exhaust system. LQ9 with custom cam. Nothing too crazy, but it shuold be fun in the GTM.

725272537254

[RF RIDER]

Tino;
Nice looking motor, but before you take delivery get Bob to change out your water pump. You need the original LS1 water pump. He put the wrong one on mine aswell and I had to send back to swap out for another one. The FFR relocating bracket for the upper pulley will fit but the back of tensioner pulley will hit your intake. The LS1 water pump is slightly different and gives you the clearance you need.

I see your coming along nicely with the build. It's a great feeling when the motor goes in.

David (your northern buddy)

[LCD Gauges]

Hey Dave, thanks for the tip. I'll check into this tomorrow. Does the crank hub also need to be swapped in order to line up
with the original LS1 waterpump?

[RF RIDER]

Tino
Are you talking about the balancer, if so, no it is fine, everything lines up. I also ordered the extra brace parts for the alternator bracket as I've heard that is a weak point. Call Jason at FFR and he will set you up, cheap part.
I bought the Airtex brand part #AW5081 and good to go

[LCD Gauges]

Yes, the balancer. I'll look into this further, thanks for the tips.

[LCD Gauges]

That's right people...$22 worth of sandpaper to start prepping the body for primer.
Too bad I can't touch the car for another two months, but at least it's a baby step forward.

For now, I'm going to work on the electronics for the door code, and other things. Also getting leads
on transaxles so I can get this SOB on the road this Spring...even if it's gonna roll in primer!

No, I'm not kidding.


7686

[LCD Gauges]

I"m happy to say the PCM and harness are now in hand. This is a huge piece of the puzzle in terms of moving forward with the assembly. I have to give a shout out to Bob at Hilton Motorsports for supplying the engine, and getting a custom made harness (by Howell) with new connectors, and tested for less headaches during the install.

79067907

Now with transaxle leads, and discussions ongoing I hope to have the car ready for go-karting by the end of April (the car is in storage until March 30th! :( ). If all goes well, it will be road worthy by mid Spring even if I leave the black gel-coat (with the flashing sanded and prepped, and primed to match) for this Season. It will give me a chance to work out any bugs, or add body modifications/upgrades before final paint goes on.

Whaddya think, will it still turn heads with the factory coating? :p

[LCD Gauges]

Diagram of the security circuit I'm designing for the push-button start disable. I have most of the circuit built and functional on bread-boards (proto-typing), but I'm still looking for a quality keypad, and cases to assemble the real thing.

7914

[LCD Gauges]

Need help with transaxle mount question as my car is not easily accessed right now:

How are the transaxle mounts setup on the Gen 1, GTM? Are they located for a 1987-1989 Porsche 911 G50, or a 1989.5-1994 Porsche 964 G50?

Thanks!

[mendo]

Whaddya think, will it still turn heads with the factory coating? :p


I think it will!

the sound of it is impressive, the looks of it (from 50 feet away) is impressive!

of course, when we look closely at it while it is parked, well, not quite as impressive.

I think you will be happy looking at it from across the parking lot. do it!

[LCD Gauges]

No worries, I wont disgrace our vehicle by driving around in patches of filler, and a multi-shaded body. I'm just anxious to get this thing road ready as I've been driving a 4 cyl Winter car since
selling my SS last Summer. Not so fun!

[LCD Gauges]

What are your thoughts about building an air box at the rear and using the existing cut-outs from the hatch for access? I plan on using two panel filters, with an insulated box to isolate the exhaust heat.

My exhaust will be routed to the sides, and lower section of the back end. I'm thinking about a fiberglass scoop to keep the rain out, and some screened drain holes at the bottom
of the box to remove any water build-up.

80318032

Picture stolen and hacked-up from Kempo's build page :cool:

[crash]

That is much like what we have on the FFR PDG GTM and it works well. You can make the scoop changable in orientation so that it can face forward during dry times, and back during wet times. That's how we have done it and there is a difference in HP numbers, although slight, depending upon how the scoop is oriented. :)

[kabacj]

Crash, I am surprised that rain would be an issue. I have always raced motorcycles with "ram air" which would suck plenty of water in when it rained. Never any change in performance. As we know the 'Ram' effect is minimal and debatable. The scoops provide cool air which is clearly an advantage.

On my first car I wanted to see what would happen when you injected water into the carburetor. Took the hose and let the water flow in at idle. Nothing happens. I'm talking a trickle 1/8 inch thick trickle not a flood. The motor would idle along happily. You would be hard pressed to get more rain in then that.

Now I know I am opening a can of worms here as ram air and water or alcohol injection are all much discussed internet forum topics.

In the case of a race car I am just surprised to hear that you would worry about rain in the intake. Fresh air and rain would only help I would think.

John

[crash]

Yep water will raise the octane level and clean the chambers nicely, but you must get it all out, or stuck valves and rusted clyinders will result.

The situation we are concerned about is heavy rain at 100+ MPH with a scoop into a relatively small air box. Probably wouldn't be an issue, but we don't risk it. If it looks like heavy rain we sacrifice a couple HP for piece of mind.

As a point of referrence, our competitors have a very similar design. It is reversible for rain duty. :)

[LCD Gauges]

Ahhh, nuts! I thought this was an original idea for the GTM. I'd love to see photos of your design when you have a minute Chris. I'm not worried
about water entering the motor, however having a bunch of water pooling in the airbox would be death of the engine on startup.

Is anyone on this site using water/alc. injection? I know there is a member with a twin turbo setup, maybe he might be?
Remembering the days of misting water into the carburetor to clean up the chambers, and plugs. :)

Never thought about any sort of ram effect as much as having a direct shot of cool air getting to the motor. The LS intake is so tiny that providing
a little more pressure in the box couldn't hurt. Before this idea, I was trying to find a method to move the box closer to the intake, and then run
the throttle blade/filter on the opposite side of the box in hopes of creating a larger plenum and still have rear view capability.

[Kempo]

however having a bunch of water pooling in the airbox would be death of the engine on startup.


Tino,

You might be able to incorporate a dirt bike/atv airbox drain on the bottom of the air box. This will stop water from pooling inside the box.

8050

[crash]

Tino,

You might be able to incorporate a dirt bike/atv airbox drain on the bottom of the air box. This will stop water from pooling inside the box.

8050

Automatic ones are also available off of tractor air boxes...remember what my filter looks like? LOL!

[Kempo]

Automatic ones are also available off of tractor air boxes...remember what my filter looks like? LOL!


LOL yes I remember seeing the picture of that 55gal capacity filter. You should post the picture again to remind us how small our filters are.

[LCD Gauges]

Automatic ones are also available off of tractor air boxes...remember what my filter looks like? LOL!


Where did you end up putting that thing anyway? I'm guessing the passenger seat area?

[crash]

Where did you end up putting that thing anyway? I'm guessing the passenger seat area?

No. My car is much wider than a normal GTM yet has much less room in the drivers compartment, so there is room in a "side pod" for that monster. :)

[LCD Gauges]

My ideas for the rear-end look. Audi A4 lights, and 01 Sentra reverse lights (already have). I'd like to work something out with
the exhaust tips for a sort of "boom tube" appearance, and rework the diffuser.

If my hands can work as well as Photoshop's cut-n-paste, I may be in business!

8246

[LCD Gauges]

Guess what's back, and finally out of storage!? I'm happy that I'll be able to participate on this forum with more substance once again.

Sorry about the dust and messy garage, there's quite a bit of organizing and cleaning before I start working on the car but it wont be long.
The main goal will be finding a transaxle and getting the car ready for the go-kart stage by the end of May.

I'll be adding an Integra spoiler to finish off the rear end appearance; it seems to fit well. I'm going to mount it about 1/2 inch above the
body as I'm not a big fan of the taller race-style wing. I might bug you all for ideas on fabricating mounts when the time comes.

86588659

[fastthings]

My ideas for the rear-end look. Audi A4 lights, and 01 Sentra reverse lights (already have). I'd like to work something out with
the exhaust tips for a sort of "boom tube" appearance, and rework the diffuser.

If my hands can work as well as Photoshop's cut-n-paste, I may be in business!

8246

I like the look of the lights, they look good in the pic. Consider that most cars have a rounded rearend. Most cars, the tail lights bend around the corner to be visible from the sides. Hard to tell looking a picture. I spent alot of time looking at cool tail lights on cars driving around, they look good driving up on them, but then when you get up close I see they wouldn't work becauase they wrap around the side. That's the problem I ran into, I was forced to use a light that doesn't wrap around the side. That look you came up with is killer, I hope you can make it work.

Gene

[LCD Gauges]

Gene, I know exactly what you're thinking. I've been looking at tail lights on every car on the drive home and found that most don't suit the 'lines' of the GTM, or they wrap
around the corner as you mentioned.

The Audi A4 (certain model years) and A7 have fairly flat lenses. Failing that I was thinking about lights from a VW, or 1st/4th Gen Camaro.

P.S. I've been watching your video logs like a hawk to get ideas on working the 'glass for these lights!

[fastthings]

Well goos luck, let me know if I can help somehow. That pic is sick. I do, love the look.

[VD2021]

Tino,

I'm glad you're ready to continue with your build again. Your thread was collecting dust :).

Seeing others progress is a great motivator for me.

Gene's videos are good stuff. I'm about ready to start picking his brain as I turn back to body work.

[smkn951]

Hello everyone, noob here.
great thread , very informative.
looking into building one soon as i get promoted.......
How rude of me...
My name is Carl, been in the military for 23 years now (enlisted), currently a BMS (Battalion motor Sergeant), a little knowledge about turning wrenches.
currently stationed in FT Bliss Texas.
Would getting the donor first be good prior to getting the kit or get the kit then decide which route to go with the motor and drive train?
thanks everyone.
Carl

[crash]

Especially if your space is limited, you should probably get the donor first. Although most say that it is very helpful to keep the donor around for little parts that aren't listed in the manual that you will end up needing. So, unfortunately, it seems very beneficial to be able to keep both cars on site until at least the go kart stage, and probably through to completion.

[LCD Gauges]

After more than five months of inaction, I'm happy to say I'm back in the saddle again.

A quick question about engine install: Besides bolting up the headers, plugs, wires, and
removing the thermostat housing, what other items should I add/remove before dropping
the motor into the chassis?

Today I spent about three hours cleaning tape residue, and mold flashing off the rear hatch area.

Before and after pics:

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/535108_10150956978769148_505744147_12842570_852421 269_n.jpg (http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/558557_10150956979639148_505744147_12842579_101276 7323_n.jpg)

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/558557_10150956979639148_505744147_12842579_101276 7323_n.jpg

The rear glass gap alignment is good along the sides, but not very even along the top. There is also a
huge mismatch between the rear quarter and hatch lid. It's going to take quite a bit of filler to make it
seamless.
88208821

[RF RIDER]

Tino;
Alain likes his duct tape. that tape was everywhere when you brought it home.
I would take the body off when installing motor, when I installed mine, I was at the engine lift controls and my dad was guiding it into place while standing in the car between seats. The motor had to to be tilted to get thru framing. Leave alternator off. you can install a/c comp. before. Also do a search on the other forum, you will have to notch the frame near a/c comp. plug or get the comp takin apart and relocate it to the other side. Kempo has pictures of this on his build page. I ended up cutting the frame with a dremel. depending on your headers, you might not be able to install with them on.

[LCD Gauges]

I'll gladly send back all the tape dust and debris to Alain once I'm done! :p I'm going to remove the body, but not until I have the engine and transaxle ready. At the moment, I'm going to focus on finishing the items required for the engine install, and sand down all of the flashing.

Thanks for the tip about the A/C compressor plug. I'll check it out before getting to that point.

[VD2021]

After more than five months of inaction, I'm happy to say I'm back in the saddle again.

A quick question about engine install: Besides bolting up the headers, plugs, wires, and
removing the thermostat housing, what other items should I add/remove before dropping
the motor into the chassis?


Tino,

If you have a helper or two you can leave more on the engine and still get it in. I installed my engine by myself so I had to remove the water pump and alternator (compressor and headers remained) and the intake manifold had not been reinstalled yet.

[LCD Gauges]

Another three hours in the books, and it's looking a little nicer without the tape!
I must say it's sooooo nice to be working on the car again. Thanks for the reply
Vidal. I'll see if I can round up some helpers to drop the motor down.

A little more of the before and after shots; just the driver's side remains to be
cleaned and then I'm ready for the block sanding stage. This is where I start to
get nervous as I've never attmpeted this level of repair on fiberglass before.
Thankfully YouTube has some decent tutorials to learn from.
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/532720_10150956979109148_505744147_12842574_659320 948_n.jpg
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/521881_10150959864834148_505744147_12851566_144078 3803_n.jpg
The windshield glass has an irregular gap, and also doesn't sit on the body too well.
I think it's mostly because the body isn't sitting square on the chassis at the moment.
With a bit of shifting near the doors, the glass sits down in the gap. Perhaps I'm making
a big deal out of nothing as the body is not secured.
There are some huge steps/mismatch in the mold which will take some skill to fix.
I'm not sure whether to build up the filler and round the A-Pillar, or take the highest
point and keep it somewhat flat.
8839
8840

[LCD Gauges]

After nine hours of removing tape scum, and flashing I'm ready to start the block sanding. I'll be picking out the filler/bondo, as well as
any other materials required for this stage of the body work. Doors, rear hatch, and hood will need some massaging to clean up the edges

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/551924_10150984823184148_505744147_12908941_439998 161_n.jpg

I wont be able to get the finer details worked out until the body is mounted...and that will happen once the motor/transaxle gets dropped in.
For now, I'll work on the areas that are not alignment sensitive. I'll be updating another thread about body work techniques to discuss my
approach, and get some opinions.

Until then, check out this odd discovery I found today. It appears a mouse had a field day on this tube, but it's tough to believe because these
parts were stored in a taped box, inside of a covered pick-up truck for the Winter. A mouse, or something else? Curious to know!

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/548283_10150984823609148_505744147_12908945_115568 0736_n.jpg

[LCD Gauges]

The "second stage" has begun! Today I hit the roof, and A-pillars with sandpaper and a rubber block. Dust, dust, and more dust! I can understand why many people finish the body work before starting the interior, and engine.

Here is the roof roughed up. I tried to keep even pressure, and use circular movements as I moved the block in straight line.
9018
The step between the door half and the main body has been knocked down. The remainder will be filled, and sanded to
make a smooth transistion between sections.
9019
After a dry wipe, the pitting, surface scratches, and low spots were more apparent. I can see the importance of using a
coloured spray once the filler is applied to ensure all of high, and low spots are evened out.
9020
Tomorrow I hope to have the hood finished, and Saturday to complete the back end.

[LCD Gauges]

Hello all, a quick video log (idea stolen from Gene "fast_things") to get some pointers on filling the side/nose of the hood.


If you get a green screen try resizing, or going to full screen mode, or click the link below:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqcWazIvD5c&amp;list=UU_2ocnVFleOIBThGzDXB7Dg&amp; index=1&amp;feature=plcp

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqcWazIvD5c&list=UU_2ocnVFleOIBThGzDXB7Dg&index=1&feature=plcp

[VD2021]

Tino,

My technique is to use the same "X" or 45 degree moving pattern keeping the block on the flashing until its flush. Then continue the same blocking pattern but now covering 3-5 inches on either side of the flashing. I purchased a DA but had yet to take it from the box. It's more work, but I feel this technique will keep me from creating mistakes that make for more work. Skilled body Guys can make it perfect with the DA. I personally would avoid the circles you mention. But that's just me.

For the areas where the surfaces are on two different plains you will have to use your judgment on how much to take down the higher surface. At that point, depending on how much material difference you need to address, you'll have to decide if it’s minimal enough for just filler or if it requires fg work. If its filler then sand the low untouched spots with 80grit, apply your filler and block sand. Good luck and keep the updates coming.

[carbon fiber]

my technique with a D/A sander is to bump the lever to get it spinning and then make contact while using low "throttle". keep the rpms down to where you are hearing it struggle to keep spinning with light/medium pressure. i use the same 45 degree "x" pattern while using a D/A also. this gives you the same control as block or hand sanding in a "x" pattern. you can also do 90 degree passes over that. only time i'd stay in one place is when i'm taking down a high spot, and still be careful you can dig in quick with even finer grit paper. i've seen a $20,000 dollar set of fiberglass airplane wings ruined by a rookie builder using a D/A where he should have been block sanding with a 2 or 3 foot block sander. not saying don't use it, just know where and how. practice on a old fender or something until you get used to the feel and technique.

[LCD Gauges]

Let me clarify that I'm doing the circles on the curved areas (IE: front fender area).

The more I read about the dangers of using power tools for glass work, the more I want to refrain. I'm fairly comfortable using the hand blocks right now,
and things are going well for the first pass of blocking.

I think I'm going to grab a laser level to find humps, and uneven spots along the body. If I shine the laser laterally across the hood for instance, I should
be able to see dips along the beam that are not easily seen by inspecting the filler. Know what I mean?

[fastthings]

Hi Tino, (is that your name?)

I learned a long time ago to not tell someone that they might be doing it wrong on a forum. It usually turns out ugly. It would seem that you are really looking for a conformation.

One man's opinion, I could not hear the sound on the vid, but your waisting your time.
The air pockets I saw on that vid need to be ate out and filled. Any difference in the mating surface, one side needs to be ground down to match, or the other side needs to be filled with bondo, as to bring it up to match. Since you don't want to grind any of your car paper thin I would chose the bondo. the blocking I saw in your vid is premature, You will be doing the same thing at the same spot after you get the mud work done.

As I was doing my car I found many air pockets just below the surface, most of them I 'm glad I found. I would hate to have one poke out after it's painted.

I'm not to sure what you have done, to the car. Looks like your just past the gokart stage. If your not going to be the one to finnish the body work, and then paint it, you may want to go a different route. If I were you I would do all the busy work so you don't have to pay the finnisher to do it.

Do it in stages, the fine tunning blocking that you are doing is near the last stage. Get the body were you want it and use a couple points to keep it in one spot. Then do the same to the hood, hatch, and doors. Get it all to fit the way you want then start finnishing the car as if it were painted. Get the seals you want, trim all the edges were you want, all the lights, trim, screens, wing, nuts, bolts, everything. Alng the way only do some roughing in of the bodywork, as to make propper any item you install. Using a light grinder, 40 grit sand paper, the roughing in stage.

After al that you would be left with a complete car all put together, with roughed in body work. Take it all back apart, and give it to the body man. If you gave me a GTM that was 100% complete except the final bodywork, all stripped down, that would be a quik and easy paint job.
The body nam will cruise right threw the blocking stuff, that's not were the time gets ate up, it's all the fitting and aligning, and finding screws, trying to get a seal.

The laser will not work, picture a ball, shine a laser over the top. You will only get it to hit in one spot. If it's hitting two spots you really have a problem. Same thing with your hood, it's round.

good luck,
Gene

[VD2021]

Hi Tino, (is that your name?)

I learned a long time ago to not tell someone that they might be doing it wrong on a forum. It usually turns out ugly. It would seem that you are really looking for a conformation.

One man's opinion, I could not hear the sound on the vid, but your waisting your time.
The air pockets I saw on that vid need to be ate out and filled. Any difference in the mating surface, one side needs to be ground down to match, or the other side needs to be filled with bondo, as to bring it up to match. Since you don't want to grind any of your car paper thin I would chose the bondo. the blocking I saw in your vid is premature, You will be doing the same thing at the same spot after you get the mud work done.

As I was doing my car I found many air pockets just below the surface, most of them I 'm glad I found. I would hate to have one poke out after it's painted.

I'm not to sure what you have done, to the car. Looks like your just past the gokart stage. If your not going to be the one to finnish the body work, and then paint it, you may want to go a different route. If I were you I would do all the busy work so you don't have to pay the finnisher to do it.

Do it in stages, the fine tunning blocking that you are doing is near the last stage. Get the body were you want it and use a couple points to keep it in one spot. Then do the same to the hood, hatch, and doors. Get it all to fit the way you want then start finnishing the car as if it were painted. Get the seals you want, trim all the edges were you want, all the lights, trim, screens, wing, nuts, bolts, everything. Alng the way only do some roughing in of the bodywork, as to make propper any item you install. Using a light grinder, 40 grit sand paper, the roughing in stage.

After al that you would be left with a complete car all put together, with roughed in body work. Take it all back apart, and give it to the body man. If you gave me a GTM that was 100% complete except the final bodywork, all stripped down, that would be a quik and easy paint job.
The body nam will cruise right threw the blocking stuff, that's not were the time gets ate up, it's all the fitting and aligning, and finding screws, trying to get a seal.

The laser will not work, picture a ball, shine a laser over the top. You will only get it to hit in one spot. If it's hitting two spots you really have a problem. Same thing with your hood, it's round.

good luck,
Gene

Gene,

That's exactly the route I am on. I am doing it this way for a few reasons. Two of them are to save on the cost and have an expert paint it. I am doing the entire panel fitting and so on. I just finished the hatch and will hit the headlight buckets before moving back to the doors/windows (which are ~75% complete).

This is a great way to go. I still get to be very involved in the entire build (IMO body work is the toughest part), I will save a lot of money (keeping me very close to my original budget), and have a high quality paint job. The majority of the labor is put into the doors/windows. So if you can get these to a final rough, with everything installed, sealing and working, you'll save ~half of the labor.

The key with this route is to coordinate with your bodywork Guy/painter. Some, if not the majority, of painters will not warranty (some may not take the job at all) the paint because the prep is critical to a quality job. Tom (Thomas#142) and I have been working together on my bodywork and I am doing my part under his instruction and guidance . He doesn't even want me to block the body. He only wants me to knock down the flashing.

Tino,

From some of the post I am under the impression that you plan to do all of the body/paint yourself.? I have learned a lot from gathering information from the forum and some of its members, but my best education has come from hands-on working with Tom. It can be difficult, if not almost impossible to instruct through voice or message. In the absence of hands-on instruction, keep pulling in the knowledge and take it on to your best ability. In the end it’s your GTM and it would be cool to say "I built it from start to finish", because there are few [non-shop owners/mechanics (for instructional purpose only:)) we wish we had your skills] who can. Dave (Nitetrain) comes to mind.

Good luck Buddy.

[crash]

Exactly what I would, and have recommended. I'm certainly not too proud to say that I am NOT a professional car body man. I rough it, like with the demonized air file, and the 60 grit 90 degree die grinder, get the body filler to a point where it needs only to be taken down a slight amount to finished height, and then I call in the pros. IMHO, it is just foolish to think that you will do this better than a guy who does it all day, every day for a living. And since it is not the type of work I want to be doing all day, every day,I really see no practical reason to learn a skill that will ultimately be cheaper and MUCH more enjoyable to have someone else do.

If you have those skills...GREAT!! It's just not an area that I think is worth my while learning to perfect.

YMMV

[LCD Gauges]

it is just foolish to think that you will do this better than a guy who does it all day, every day for a living.

Exactly. I am not that foolish to believe/think such a thing, but I am crazy enough to attempt it! I have no issue handing over the project
when it's time for paint. It would be a smart move in order to receive the high gloss, show car quailty, masterpiece that this car deserves.

On the other hand, a part of me want to explore and learn. I was thinking I'd try my luck on the spoiler (it's a throw-away piece), and
maybe the doors, and rear hatch. If they turned out to expectation, I might attempt the body, and hood. Who knows, it's all too far away t
to conisder right now.

I know for certain the car is not getting painted this year. There are too many add-ons, and upgrades that I want to install before final paint
happens.

As for the laser, I'm not thinking a single beam, "flashlight type". I'm thinking more like the type that Gene uses (a leveling laser) than can shine
a continuous line across the hood. Does that make more sense now?

Gene,

Thank you for the response. I don't take offense to any of your comments; I just wish you could hear the audio. I'm confused when you say that I'm not ready for the block
sanding stage? After breaking down the flash, I started to sand the parting lines to a point were the body panels have a smooth transition.

I've also roughed up the gel coat with 150 grit so that filler/bondo/primer will adhere.

Some air pockets have appeared which I plan to fix before moving forward.

Right now my goal is to sand the entire car, rough it up, and get all the parting lines flush.

Next I will treat the air pockets, and then add filler to the low spots.

The car is not at the go-kart stage. I have abondoned the engine install, and interior aluminum assembly until the body is sanded down.

I'll get another video uploaded with better quality, and more clarification. My cell phone is apparently not the correct format for YouTube!

[LCD Gauges]

Working on the back end now, and pretty much done the entire car except the doors, and rear hatch. After everything is done I'll be cleaning off all of the dust, and treating the holes/defects.

This defect will need some special attention. I'm thinking that I'll chip away all of the pitted area, and then fill the entire hole to prevent flaking in the future.

9641

The passenger, and driver's side air inlets are proving to be a challenge to blend evenly. There are several joints, and curves all coming together
at this point.

9642964396449645

[LCD Gauges]

I'm pretty much done roughing up the gel coat now. All that remains is the rear hatch panel, and rear bumper. My next step is to treat the major holes/defects by chipping away loose 'glass, and sanding
the edges down. I certainly don't want the underbody flaking off after the primer/paint is applied.

Before I start applying filler, I'll be wiping the dust off. I'm going to use the same cleaning fluid to get all the junk off of the body. If all goes well, I'll have the holes treated, and some patches of filler applied
by Tuesday.

Here are some pics of the door, and side air vent shape that will be cut out:
982098229821

P.S. The transaxle is coming soon!

[LCD Gauges]

Getting ready to clean off the dust, and treat the holes (tomorrow's task). Filler to be applied, and then hit the entire body again with a finer grit
paper. The second pass will pay more attention to getting the lines proper, and getting an even base for the primer.

The video has some questions for the pro's if you don't mind!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sN7VQT4C0nw

[rev2xs]

Hi 00SS_M6LS1,

I thought i'd throw in my 2 cents worth. With regards to the A-pillar, yes, what you are experiencing is normal (when compared to my build). And yes, your idea of using filler there is spot on. I used filler with glass fibers. Much stronger but the only downside is that its a lot harder to sand.

With regards to the windscreen fitment, thats normal too from my experience and from what i have read on other people's threads. I doubt you will be able to get the windshield to fit 100% perfectly using filler alone. If you want 100% perfection then you will probably have to reglass the channel in which the glass sits in. Probably make it slightly deeper at the top. Not worth the extra work in my opinion. What i ended up doing was using a universal windshield seal that you place around the the windshield before you install it. Here's a pic:

http://i701.photobucket.com/albums/ww20/rev2xs/P1110233.jpg

As you can see, it completely finishes the windshield and covers the inaccuracy. Even when looking up close, you cant tell that the windshield doesn't conform 100% to the car itself. This is the easiest and probably best solution as sometimes, even windshields in production cars have the same problem.

As with the rear hatch waviness, that part of the hatch is not visible at all under the black bit around the rear hatch glass. You can even it out, but once again, i dont think it'll be worth the time and effort. straighten it out yes, but the waviness i would leave as the windshield silicon will probably fill those waves out on their own like it did on mine. You would probably be better suited spending that extra time on your electrics or on visible areas of the car. Thats what i would do. If you do want to fill them in, then i would using something like that glass fiber body filler i mentioned. Much, much stronger.

Luckily for me, my rear hatch didnt prove as problematic as yours was. One tip i can offer, make sure that you place your rear hatch glass on to gauge how much you need to adjust the fitment. The glass changes how the hatch sits completely. You may find that the difference on the left side of that lip might not even be as pronounced when the hatch has the weight of the hatch glass sitting on it.




Getting ready to clean off the dust, and treat the holes (tomorrow's task). Filler to be applied, and then hit the entire body again with a finer grit
paper. The second pass will pay more attention to getting the lines proper, and getting an even base for the primer.

The video has some questions for the pro's if you don't mind!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sN7VQT4C0nw

[carbon fiber]

rev2xs, i didn't even notice the trim on your windsheild before. looks nice. where did you source it?

[LCD Gauges]

Awesome response REV. I'm happy to know I'm on the right track as I'll be hitting the car again this afternoon. Hopefully I can pull the body out from the sides, and the
front enough to seat the windshield. Unfortunately, I think I'll be reworking the fiberglass to make it fit.

Love your car BTW. I saw a video of the walk-around not too long ago.

[rev2xs]

Hi Carbon,

I bought it at a local autoparts shop here in Poland. It cost pittance really and the effect is excellent. It really gives the GTM a production car quality when you look at it in person. Thats what i noticed about the GTM. Its not the big differences that give the allure of quality, its the little things. The more little things you change, it all adds up to a whole and that is what gives you the "production car" look.

Here's what the seal looks like so you can try to source it where you are..

http://i701.photobucket.com/albums/ww20/rev2xs/windshieldSeal.jpg






rev2xs, i didn't even notice the trim on your windsheild before. looks nice. where did you source it?

[fastthings]

Hey man, how are ya. I admire your willingness to learn and question. So many things to address in your vid. See how the bondo you have sands, I never have used that kind before. You will need a gallon or two before your done.

I think you need to pick one part of your vid and focus on that. Doing it all together is going to get overwhelming. Consider the fact that after your done all the stuff you will have learned, some of wich you will realize was a waist of time after you get done. I think if you take just one spot and take it from it's raw form to final prime you will learn alot from doing that one spot that you can transfere to the next.

Sooner or later you will have to take a grinder to a spot and pour on the bondo, then sand it off and add some more, finaly getting it to were it's ready for primer.

The front glass, you need to check the gaps with the glass spaced from the bottom as if there was a bead of uerothane under it, it is not realistic to fit it with it resting on the body. On the rear, the part under the rear glass, dotn't touch it, good enough. When you install the glass the bead of glue will not care if it's on a rolling surface, and you'll never see it.

Too much to coment on, make a new vid, with questions about one part, and we will get more detailed.

Very difficult to help long distance, but I will try.

Good luck,
Gene

[LCD Gauges]

Thanks Gene (*and everyone else), I appreciate the tips. I'll be sure to upload another video with one specific area of focus. Today I mounted the light buckets with pins (temp. mounting). Everything looks
symmetrical at first glance, but I'll get the measuring devices out, and let the eyes have another look in the morning.

There is quite a bit of work required around the perimeter of the hood openings to make the buckets flush. I know it will take a combination of cutting back, sanding, and filler to blend the pieces.


99549953995299559956994999509951

[fastthings]

Well, that is a good place to take the process from start to finnish. Concentrate on just the head light buckets for now. You need to think about if you want to clean inside the lens, if you glue it or not. The only thing I can think of to stick it on there without screw is some of that heavy duty velcro, and I can kinda see that working just fine. Get the thing were you want it, tape it in spots, slice the tape at the seem so you can now remove and replace without haveing to find the right spot again and again.

You will have to use screws, clamps, preasure from something, anything you have to tightly hold it in place while the fiberglass, or glue to dry. I would do a dry run of how you will attach it with no glue, and do one at a time, keep you from chaseing yourself. If you use screws, use few as possible, when it's done you will have to glass those scew holes. everyone you have to repair is a chance of a spot that fails somehow and you will see it years later after everything cures.
Grind the mateing surfaces, don't touch the part you ground off anymore keep any oils, silacone away. Get it stuck on.

Then grind into the seem on the outside, your wanting to round off the sqare edges of the pannels, into the seem you only want to grind just enough to get down into what I will call unmolested glass. When it's proper you will see unfractured glass on both sides of the joint. You will see a fiberglass sandwich with glue in the middle, with no air gaps, you want a continuos surface with no voids. Then at the same time your grinding out into the body on both sides of the seem, you want to taper, or blend the depth of the grind out into the good part of the pannel. Since it's not strucural, you don't have to go far out at all, just remove all voids.

Then start using bondo to get it to the shape you want, use only 40 grit until you get it just right, then on your last pour switch to 80 grit. Keep the 40 grit away from the rest of the body, then blend the last coat of bondo and sand with 80 out into the body.

I like the glue, but I have seen it shrink at a different rate than fiberglass over the years, then you can kinda see it. Fiberglass is way harder to deal with but less likely to shrink. I used fiberglass. I think if I were to use glue I might use like a kevlar embeded type bondo made for blending fiber glass to metal seems, for the first coat then finnish it off with bondo. I really think you need to get a different bondo for doing the hole car. What you have, you will probably use all of that on just one bucket trying to figure it out. I really liked that U-pol lightweight gold bondo, and glaze. Mix a little glaze with the bondo and it spreads and sands really good. You can buy it off the net.

Gene

[LCD Gauges]

That's a pretty detailed procedure, thanks for that. This morning I laid the lens over the headlight opening to check the alignment. The contour is pretty bad, and I'll need to "true up" the sides, and use
some filler to keep the gap spacing constant.

I think from now on I'll be able to sail along with more confidence. Now that I'm starting to rework the fiberglass, I'm not as scared to dive-in, and make things happen. I will admit, it was very intimidating
to take on the body work for this car, but I'm getting comfortable using the tools, and pulling things together.

As for the screws, I'm going to counter sink the heads with enough depth to blend-in the filler.

I'm looking forward to your next video log. Your car is coming along quite well.
Have a good day.

[LCD Gauges]

More work to the lights. These Lexan lenses, and the spacing around the lens will be a pain to make right!

9975997699779978997999809981

[VD2021]

More work to the lights. These Lexan lenses, and the spacing around the lens will be a pain to make right!

9975997699779978997999809981

Tino,

I'm curious... Are those covers as they were from FFR or have they been trimmed? Richard Oben sells headlight covers that fit the gen1 and will save you on the body work your current ones will require. here's a thread and his website.

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/42-factory-five-gtm-forum/86646-anyone-else-have-headlight-cover-fit-issues.html

http://www.northracecars.com/gtmparts.html

[LCD Gauges]

Vidal,

That's the condition right out of the box. Thanks for the link, I'll have to give Richard a call soon.

[LCD Gauges]

Ordered these for the GTM. Should be here in about six weeks (hopefully in time for the go-karting stage!).

9995

[LCD Gauges]

Glassed in the front headlight buckets. These things are set for life with some epoxy, and short strand fiberglass holding them to the hood. I did the
front, and back perimeter with fiberglass, and also glued the buckets to the hood.

I'm going for the Gen II appearance with no seams along the buckets. This morning I picked up some 3M"Professional Gold" filler. This stuff
spreads like butter, and is nice to work with. I'm going to let it cure over night, and then blend the filler to form a nice smooth curve into the hood.
I'll need at least one more layer to make it right, possibly two more applications before moving onto the next step of treating pin holes, etc.

The body work is starting to move along at a better pace.
101281012910130

I'll upload pictures of the blended seams this weekend. I think you'll be slightly impressed; I'm very happy with the results so far!

P.S. Those are not burn holes under the lamp bores. That was the result of a pilot hole when drilling the anchors to hold the bulbs.
These buckets are not filled-in like some that I've seen on here.

[Kalstar]

Ordered these for the GTM. Should be here in about six weeks (hopefully in time for the go-karting stage!).

9995

Looking for trouble....very creative.

[LCD Gauges]

Some pics of the passenger light after the filler has been sanded down. It will need at least one more layer to fill in the pitting, and get a nice transition into the hood.

After this stage I'll have to vacuum, and wash the entire body to get all the junk off. Right now I'm cleaning the local areas where the filler is applied, and letting
it dry before applying the Bondo. I'm allowing at least 24 hours between stages even though it's not required.
10137101381013910140

[LCD Gauges]

Not happy right now! My windshield must have slipped down from the upper support overnight, and now there's a crack down the middle of the glass.

I should have known better than to keep the windshield in place all of this time, but Geeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeezzzzzzzzzzzzzzz!
I'll be eating that expense before the car rolls.

Not happy. :(

Anyone selling a windshield by chance?

[rev2xs]

Oh man, i know the pain. It happened to me too. BUT, i'm over seas in Europe so if you think that it'll be expensive for you, then watch this, a new windshield to Poland = about $3000usd. For you? it'll probably a few hundred bucks from FF5..




Not happy right now! My windshield must have slipped down from the upper support overnight, and now there's a crack down the middle of the glass.

I should have known better than to keep the windshield in place all of this time, but Geeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeezzzzzzzzzzzzzzz!
I'll be eating that expense before the car rolls.

Not happy. :(

Anyone selling a windshield by chance?

[LCD Gauges]

Thanks Rev. I'm not even sure that it slipped down so much as the weight of itself over time just 'gave in'. Nonetheless, hopefully someone will learn from my mistake,
and place the glass in a safe location until it can be mounted properly.

[fastthings]

Well if it makes you feel better, my passenger window now has a scratch in it from a bump that came from a burr tool. It is hard to work around glass in the building stage. I have ruined lots of glass in my day. Ya know it's kinda weird, I have been so carefull and whatched glass break, then on the other hand I have purposely threw glass across a room to watch it break and it just bounced off the floor. don't figure.

[LCD Gauges]

It doesn't make me feel better, but thanks for trying! :)

Just the other day I was thinking I'll take the glass into the house once the body comes off the frame.

Geeeeeeeeeeezzzzzzzzzz, I need a drink.

Let's talk about happy things now.

[fastthings]

Blood,sweat, AND tears. It's no joke!

[LCD Gauges]

AND money!

What does FFR charge for a replacement? I'd check, but I'm not at home right now.

[LCD Gauges]

Plates arrived much sooner than expected (last week). I'm dreading the fact that Ontario requires a plate to be mounted on the front of the vehicle. The front grill/vent
area is the only logical place. What have the Canadian builders done? Just mount against the screen mesh, or fabricate some posts fixed to the fiberglass?

Hopefully airflow wont be an issue with the radiator cooling; the plate covers a good 1/3 of the opening. On a better note, I'm grabbing the transaxle within the next couple
of weeks. Need to study all the angles before grabbing one. See you in the transaxle threads!
1038110382

[The Stig]

On a better note, I'm grabbing the transaxle within the next couple
of weeks. Need to study all the angles before grabbing one. See you in the transaxle threads!


Hi Tino,

You have a few options that involve balancing wait time against spending a little more. Mendeola, Griffin, Aldin, Ricardo, or Porsche.

If Mendeola has their vendor supplier/production issues straightened out on the SD5, and they're still willing to sell them, then that may be the best route at the moment.

I here that Griffin is very close also. Fran Hall says that they've been testing a version of that box in their SLC Race Car with some success. But they have been sorting out some odds and ends to make it right for sales to the public. As well, they have been plagued by supplier issues. Kind of makes me wonder if they were working with the same people that Mendeola has been working with... I believe that Ruth (Art Girl) mentioned that she got word that they are about 3 weeks out.

Aldins (Australia based Gear and transaxle company) has some VERY nice products. Their V8 compatible gearboxes start around 18k and go up substantially from there depending on how you have it set up. 20 to 30k is not out of the question with their equipment.

Ricardo: Ford GT gear box. Very stout, and can handle pretty much all the power and torque that you can throw at it. If you're in the 600 to 1000 hp club, this would be one of the boxes that you should be considering. I hear though that the availability of these transaxles may be thinning out. I think I know where 2 or 3 are though... :)

Last, but certainly not least, Porsche: Extremely wide variety of 5 and 6 spd options. I like my 5 spd (G50/01 rebuilt, and reworked with taller 1st, 4th, and 5th gears). At the moment I have about 11k into it. But I will say that if I had it to do over, and given what I know now, I'd go with either a rebuilt G50/50 or a GT2 box.

At least the way I figure, it may be worth spending a little extra money to have a proven product (Porsche) that can handle the power and torque as needed, given how I intend to use the car (which will be strictly street and highway). There may be 1 or 2 track days in it's lifetime (or at least as long as I own it).

All of this is not to influence your decision as much as just wanting to share my two cents...

Take care,

Mike

[RF RIDER]

Hey Tino;

Looks like your workin hard at getting that car on the road. Good luck with Trans. Did you find one here in Ontario?

[LCD Gauges]

Thanks for the all of that info Mike. I've been reading some conflicting reviews about certain transaxle models, so I'll have to be cautious with my final decision. At the moment Dave, I'm leaning toward
a G50 box that I've sourced in the Vaughn area. I'll need to figure out ratios with tire size, against the engine particulars to ensure a good performing car on the track, and on the road.

As for working hard, it's just an illusion. I'm still in the middle of mudding up the nose end. Once the transaxle arrives, I'm going to put body work on hold and get the go-kart portion ready.

Before that happens, I'll have to dust it all off. Hopefully it will turn out somewhere between Kempo's car and my current mess when it's all shined up. :p

[crash]

Just for clarification, Mendeola has an SDR model and an S5 model. The S5 is a race/dog ringed box, and the SDR is the synchroed/street version of the S5. The SDR comes in two varients. The GTM specific SDR and the "regular" SDR. I can never remember how they are classified, but they are designated "SDR Stage I" and "SDR Stage II". The "regular SDR" has a higher HP rating and, of course, is considerably more expensive than the GTM SDR. Either may end up being a cheaper alternative when you factor in the fact that the Mendeola boxes use stock GM clutch and starter components. :)

[The Stig]

Just for clarification, Mendeola has an SDR model and an S5 model. The S5 is a race/dog ringed box, and the SDR is the synchroed/street version of the S5. The SDR comes in two varients. The GTM specific SDR and the "regular" SDR. I can never remember how they are classified, but they are designated "SDR Stage I" and "SDR Stage II". The "regular SDR" has a higher HP rating and, of course, is considerably more expensive than the GTM SDR. Either may end up being a cheaper alternative when you factor in the fact that the Mendeola boxes use stock GM clutch and starter components. :)

Thanks Crash. Sorry about that. I can be a little dyslexic at times... And you make an excellent point in regard to cost savings due to the ability to use the Corvette Clutch and Starter.

I recall reading a post regarding "Exedy Clutch Kit" (part # 04173) that can be bought for around $300.00.

Mike

[LCD Gauges]

Still truckin' along with the body work. These aren't the latest photos, but they depict the current state of 'mud' on the car. All of the parting lines are covered,
and have been sanded down to a very smooth blend with nice feathering on the edge of the filler.

I'm adding a second, wider coat of filler to ensure a nice blend, and will be using a finer grit paper to get a cleaner appearance. Lots of pits/holes
to cover, and then I might be ready for some primer!

105241052510526

[LCD Gauges]

What is 'the' suggestion for filling the tiny holes in the bondo/filler? What product worked best for you all?

[crash]

I'm using a Duratec Surfacing Primer. It's not cheap, but it can be built up to 40 mils thick. Least that's what the instructions say. I think I have actually gone thicker in some areas. That's 40 mils WET application. You can really fill some pretty big imperfections at that thickness.

[VD2021]

What is 'the' suggestion for filling the tiny holes in the bondo/filler? What product worked best for you all?

You can add some resin to your filler. You can play with the ratio. I'd start with an 80/20 mix. Mix it in really small batches and just use the bondo's cream hardner.

[LCD Gauges]

Getting closer to the primer stage now. I'm done with the bulk of the parting lines, and hood area. There's not much else I can do without mounting the body
to true up the lines, and gaps. Today I checked my work with some primer on the light buckets. Not too bad, but I'll need to get some of the surfaces lines
out with finer grit paper.

How smooth do I want the final primer stage? Should it be glass smooth, or do I want some 'roughness' for the paint to adhere properly?

Here's where I'm at with the lights. Pretty good progress from where I started!

1080610807
Before:
108091081010811

It may not be the pro method, but it's getting results I suppose.

[LCD Gauges]

More body work. Boring stuff. I'm moving to the main shell area now; working on the hood latch, and A-pillar areas first. The hood is getting touch-ups, and pin hole treatment,
then a 220 grit pass.

111631116411165

I'm on my third application of filler on certain parts, but this time I'm not seeing any high, or low spots. It must be close to 'straight, and true' now? I'll have to apply a
guide coat to help me identify the imperfections at this point.

[LCD Gauges]

Just as I'm posting this message, the phone rings and it's Eric telling me the transmission is ready to ship! I'm thinking it will arrive by next week.

I'll have to tie up some loose ends on the body work, and then remove the skin to begin the necessary work required to drop in the motor.

Two questions: Is there any danger in spraying the body work (filler) with water to wash all the dust off?

Will it degrade the bondo at all?

Here are some shots of the latch, and A-pillar. I'm not sure how much detail will be necessary in the pcoket because I know the hardware will fill this area,
and likely need some cutting/drilling.

11355113561135711358


This area is not at all complete; I sprayed some primer over the filler to check the blend into the fiberglass.

[LCD Gauges]

A not so interesting video to check out. As you'll see, I'm very slow at getting things done on the body. :eek:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dU4UcyNYtu8&amp;feature=youtu.be

After getting the transaxle home the build will move much faster as I'll be able to begin working on
the interior, and get the wiring finished. Can't wait to 'shift gears' and start doing the driveline as opposed to body work!

What to do with the stock shifter, and shift rods...

[rev2xs]

With regards to the dust issue, what i did is wheeled the car outside and blew as much of it as i could off with compressed air and then got the rest of it with a old vacuum cleaner. Any residue left over from all that on the body or the frame, i used an electrostatic cloth. That worked pretty well for me as i had the same concerns as you did.


Just as I'm posting this message, the phone rings and it's Eric telling me the transmission is ready to ship! I'm thinking it will arrive by next week.

I'll have to tie up some loose ends on the body work, and then remove the skin to begin the necessary work required to drop in the motor.

Two questions: Is there any danger in spraying the body work (filler) with water to wash all the dust off?

Will it degrade the bondo at all?

Here are some shots of the latch, and A-pillar. I'm not sure how much detail will be necessary in the pcoket because I know the hardware will fill this area,
and likely need some cutting/drilling.

11355113561135711358


This area is not at all complete; I sprayed some primer over the filler to check the blend into the fiberglass.

[VD2021]

Two questions: Is there any danger in spraying the body work (filler) with water to wash all the dust off?

Will it degrade the bondo at all?

Tino,
Here's a technique I was taught by Tom. Use the brush attachment and a drywall dust collection bag with/in your shopvac. You will be able to safely brush and vacuum the dust from the surface. I also try to vacuum as I go. When I stop to check the progress, vacuuming is part of it.

I don't know if the water will contaminate or degrade the filler or not.

[crash]

Yep. That's what I do. Vacuum with a soft brush attachment. I vacuum all the time to try and keep it from moving around the shop. Not having the roll up door open also helps a bunch. The only time my shop got really messy was the ONE time I left the door open and did a bunch of fine sanding of body filler. WHAT A MESS! Still trying to clean up from it.

[LCD Gauges]

Sweet stuff, thanks guys. I guess I'll start cleaning as I go...but it piles up so quick that it's tough to manage every day. As one section gets close to completion, I'll wipe it down,
clean it nicely to check the sanding (sometimes spray a guide coat).

Tomorrow will be spent hosing down the garage, and getting the dust to settle before the engine wrapping/plugs come off. Time to get the driveline working! :cool:

[LCD Gauges]

TX pics! Let the good times roll.

114331143411435

[VD2021]

TX pics! Let the good times roll.

114331143411435:cool:

[sk7500]

Getting bonds wet won't hurt it. Doing additional work over the top of it while it's still damp will cause you all kinds of grief. Just make sure it's dry before you apply more filler or primer and you'll be fine. As for filling pin holes, I like to use a polyester glazing putty. It mixes like bonds but is much creamier and drops down into pin holes and sand scratches with ease and is very easy to sand. It's also more stable than spot putty.

[LCD Gauges]

Thanks for the heads-up, and tips. I'll be sure to dry the filler, or body before doing any further work. Tonight I'm going to roll it outside, and clean the entire
body, and interior. This week is slotted for getting the old shifter, and linkage out, as well as prepping the 'cart for engine install.

[riptide motorsport]

Excellent work its progressing nicely!

[LCD Gauges]

Thanks, it's getting there...slowly I guess!

Yesterday I had some time to roll the car outside, and spray down the garage. It will be nice to walk on the concrete floor again without collecting a bunch of filler dust all over
my shoes! The body is hanging overhead to make some extra work space; a little low, but it's fine if I'm going under the wheel wells.

The car certainly received a bunch of attention while sitting on the driveway. One of the neighbours kinda jogged over hoping he'd see the motor installed. Sorry about 'yer luck dude!

Tonight I started cleaning up the motor, and bolt holes. A little thread chasing goes a long way to ensure proper torque, and assembly. Once I grab the alternator, AC compressor, and motor mounts I'll be ready to install the engine. When does the money stop spending?!
1151411515115161151811517

[LCD Gauges]

A minor snag in the engine mod process. I'm not sure if it's the LQ9 block, oil pan (doubt it), or perhaps a 'cut to fit' alternator relocation bracket...
It seems there is a bit of intereference with the bracket against the lip of the oil pan, and lower edge of the block.

Did anyone else experience this?

Worst case, I'll have to hack/bend the support arm of the bracket to make it work. Another set-back is the need to drill, and tap a hole for one bolt.
11640116411164211639

[LCD Gauges]

Today I ripped out the factory shifter, and laid down the cable shifter. Drilling will be required to mount the box securely, and prevent movement when shifting hard.
No photos yet, it's just sitting loose in the tunnel for now. A couple of hours was spent modifying the block, and alternator bracket to fit snug against the oil pan rail.
with a bit of shimming, the grooves will be in perfect alignment.

I'm just waiting on some motor mounts to get this ball rolling! A/C compressor, tensioner, and alternator are on the way.

116571165811659

[LCD Gauges]

The engine is starting to take shape with the components mounted, and exhaust manifolds mocked up. Today
I picked up a set of Z06 Tri-Y headers for $100 online. These things will perform just about as well as aftermarket
mid-length headers with a bit of work.

Monday, I'm grabbing the A/C compressor; Wednesday the motor mounts; then the engine goes into the
car. The photos, and progress should get more interesting from this point forward. I'm well on track to firing up
the motor, and rolling on the streets in "go-kart" mode by mid October (maybe much sooner!).

I'm starting to like this car again now that I'm getting into mechanical/electrical and tuning. That body work
was really frustrating, as well as busting the budget last month. I'm $3K over now, and counting...
This kit will end up costing me $50K before paint, rims, and tires (or any other eye candy I'm planning).

I'm trying to think of a way to move that tensioner to the other cylinder head, then buy an even
shorter belt to wrap on the outside of the crank, water pump, and alt. pulley. Know what I mean?
Just a little drilling, and hacking up the black bracket, and I think it will work.

Baby bear
11700
Momma Bear
11699
Pappa Bear! Buy a shorter belt, and eliminate the inner pulley. Less drag, a touch more power, and
stability as RPM increases. AC compressor will be added on the inner crank hub. Hopefully this will
be enough bite on the pump pulley to make it worth the modification. I'm not liking the long run between
the upper tensioner, and alternator pulley, that is the reason for this idea.
11701



A little work needed to cover the emissions crossover, as well as some grinding to the
ports to make some additonal ponies! I'm also going to relocate the 02 sensors to
prevent a reflective surface in the collector area.
116961169711698

[LCD Gauges]

Tried to work out the tensioner relocation to make the segment length shorter between tensioner, and alternator but it's not going to work. There's not enough wrap on the water pump pulley, so I"ll have to settle for the orignal 12:00 position.

On a better note I picked up the the A/C components/bracket, and motor mounts. Just a little clean-up required before installation, as well as swapping in a brand new A/C belt tensioner.

The engine/transaxle install begins tomorrow! :cool:

11794

[LCD Gauges]

Today the garage received a little shuffle to position the car sideways, and out from under the body which is hanging from the ceiling.

Most of the time was spent setting up the engine, and engine bay for the install...but then something came over me which I couldn't control:
Wanting to see the motor in between the pipes peaked my excitement, so the motor went into its home temporarily. It wasn't too difficult to
navigate over the X-section, and under the rollbar. The waterpump had to come off in order to lower the engine to mounting height. In total,
it took about ten minutes to get the motor in place once everything was set. It was much easier than expected after reading some of the posts
(also done alone).

A little tip to those approaching this stage: Use a floor jack to lift the cage about two inches so the legs of the hoist can roll under comfortably.
Also remove the back section of the roll cage. Four bolts, and it's off quite easily. You'll have to remove it eventually to get the transaxle installed
anyway.

The motor is still tied to the chains, with blocks and engine mounts supporting the motor (in case the hoist leaks down). It will be coming out again
tomorrow in order to paint the panels.

118091181011811

[LCD Gauges]

Engine installed. Clutch Installed. Transaxle waiting for approval...!

11824118251182611827

Transaxle Prep. I think everything is here, and ready to go. I'm going to make a quick call to Erik tomorrow
with some e-mailed photos to ensure everything is set properly. The instructions say something about a "guide tube"
that is supposed to be installed, but I don't know what part that might be? The tube around the input shaft?
118281182911830

Have you guys been using grease on the input shaft to ease the install?

[RF RIDER]

Tino;
your guide tube is the part as you say, around the input shaft. it has two bolts into the trans. I think you are good to go.
Nice trans, is there any mods to make fit with the rear removable frame??

[LCD Gauges]

Thanks Dave.

The trans mount, and axles require some modification to hook up. I'm not sure to what extent at this point, but I figure some welding will be involved.

[mikespms]

Hi Tino,

Looking at your pictures and can't see where your starter mounts. I used a g96-50 and it is completely different my shift linkage and starter are on the right side of the car and the rear mount is on top. On the picture of the transaxle in the car it shows the rear mount on the bottom and no starter or shift on right side or is that picture inverted. I see that the the throwout bearing and linkage is different as well, your adaptor plate looks to be about 1 1/2" wide, does that change the angle of your halfshaft to the wheels?

[crash]

Do not use grease on the splines of the input shaft. Centrifugal force will carry that grease out to the clutch disc over time and you will have a slipping clutch.

[LCD Gauges]

Mike (Florida),

The picture is not inverted, just blurred from my crappy cell phone. The Adapter plate is about 2 inches, but there's machined step where the face of transaxle sits in about 0.5 inches. I'll take some measurements if you like. From what I can tell without bolting up the transmisison, the angle of the axles will be fairly straight.

This setup uses a cable shift, and the levers are located on the left side (driver's side); the starter mounts to the engine block in the original location as far as I'm aware. The
OEM starter will be used in my setup, it's fairly compact and shouldn't cause any clearance issues.

11842
Mike (CALI), thanks for the heads-up, I figured it might be a problem! The GM stuff calls for a dab on the input shaft tip to help insert to the pilot bearing. This config seems like
it will slip right in.

[mikespms]

Hey Tino,

How about a little dry lube on the slpines.

Are you the first to use a g96-00?

I like that clutch set up is easier to install and the stock starter is a plus. The rear mount should be fairly easy to fab, just check your clearance to the difusser and mount the speedometer ring on the other side.

[LCD Gauges]

I'm not sure about being the first to use the G96. I know it's not a common choice, but I thought I read a few builds with 6 spd Porsche boxes when I first started researching.

Whenever I've installed clutch kits on other vehicle makes (mostly GM), the splines were never lubed, just the shaft tip to help slide into the pilot bearing. I'm abuot to head into
the garage and bolt everything together. I'll keep an update on how the progress goes!

[crash]

Yes, lube on the pilot bearing shaft is okay. Just don't be too generous. A little will go a long ways.

[LCD Gauges]

Silly me. I think I have the transxle upside down. That explains why you thought the picture was inverted.

[LCD Gauges]

The transaxle is installed; not too bad once you have it proper side up! A bit of wiggling required, but it slipped right in. Getting the clutch disc centered really makes
life easy for this step. I used the engine hoist with chains supporting either side of the transaxle from the axle adapters, then tilted the unit using the mount to guide
the input shaft into the bearing.

A few things to note for those consdering the G96.00:
- the stock starter does not fit the cut-away of the KEP adapter plate. Maybe my starter is the wrong type, but it's the smallest one that GM makes for the Vette as far
as I'm aware.

- the slave cylinder (PN# 997.116.237.04) is very difficult to insert. This might be easier if installed before putting the transmission into the car.

- cable shift routing, and mounting is a challenge. I don't see any mounting holes on the transaxle itself; it appears that something will need to be fabricated to make it work.

Also noteworthy:
- the waterpump has no clearance for the thermostat housing, or the cooling lines. The frame is too close to connect pipes at this location.

- the A/C compressor is fun to install. You'll need to insert some of the bolts beforehand, and tip the unit back/forth to clear the frame for two of the bolts.

1184611848

The adapter plate is 1.75" wide; no offset for the transaxle case. This puts the axle 3.5" off center.
11847

[crash]

It is good to have a bit of axle angle. Having them straight means that the CVs wear faster. Anything up to 10 degrees or so is fine.

[mikespms]

118511185211849[ATTACH=CONFIG]11850

Ok now it looks right, i used a porsche shifter with a b&m short throw kit and ran the shift cables on the left side and looped them away from the exhaust behind the triangle panel on the side. The bracket that mount the cables on the trans. needs to be modified for the new cables. I made an adapter plate to mount the stock porsche bracket to the trans with the proper set back for the new cables. Thats the cheap way or california motorsports make a nice billet bracket for $150.00 dollars

[LCD Gauges]

Mocking up the axles to determine new axle lenth. At this isntall height, and considering engine torsion, and suspension travel, the axles are pretty much ideal length.
I'm thinking half and inch shorter on each side will be enough clearance. Some pics, and video of how it sits right now.

Axle Angle viewed from top, and rear view
118601186111862

Coupler clearance before bolting (about 1/2" spacing)
1186311864

A little walk around of the transaxle install

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92Sk7X3excY

[crash]

Axle length must be checked at the point where the wheel is closest to the transaxle, and thus, the distance between the stub axle hub and the transaxle hub are the closest. On a GTM this is usually where the suspension is completely compressed. I suggest taking the shock off, compressing the suspension until it is to the point where the frame would be hitting the ground with the wheel on, and THEN seeing how much clearance you have. 3/8th is good, but anywhere between 1/4 and 1/2 inch end play is fine.

[LCD Gauges]

Good plan Mike.

For the short term, I tagged the axle at each end, then stood on the rear of the frame
and jumped "in phase" with the suspension. I was able to get the frame to dip over
2 inches toward the ground, and still no sign of slamming the axles.

I'll drop the coil-overs and check it out next. Thanks again.

[VD2021]

Tino,
Should you need to shorten them what would be the process?

[LCD Gauges]

A hacksaw, and some glue? :p

I would have to find a driveline shop that sells half-shafts, and give them the dimensions, spline count, etc.

At the moment, it looks like I'm safe, but I'll need to try Crash's method as it's
more accurate.

[Kempo]

A hacksaw, and some glue? :p

I would have to find a driveline shop that sells half-shafts, and give them the dimensions, spline count, etc.

At the moment, it looks like I'm safe, but I'll need to try Crash's method as it's
more accurate.

You wouldn't necessarily have to get new ones. You might be able to send yours have them cut and re spline in the side they cut. There is a company called thedriveshaftshop.com that can do that for you.

[LCD Gauges]

My last update for the day (I think). Just some photos of the transmount interference, and proposed mods. I'm going to take the G50 mount , and basically flip it
on top of the cross-bar, then add some links to the main frame for stability.
11867118681186911870

Test fitting the reluctor, and setting the sensor position before installing axle boots/grease. Less mess if something goes wrong!
11866


Slave cylinder is installed. YOu might want to bolt this down before mating the transaxle to the motor as it's pretty tough to muscle the opposing force of the pressure plate.
If you did it backward like me, I have an alternative method using the specialty tools in the last photo.
118711187211873

Another shout out to Erik who has been calling me after updates are sent just to make sure all is well.

[LCD Gauges]

You wouldn't necessarily have to get new ones. You might be able to send yours have them cut and re spline in the side they cut. There is a company called thedriveshaftshop.com that can do that for you.

Nice idea. I wonder what the cost/turn-around time would be vs. getting new shafts. I was thinking I'd trade mine as a "core" if needed.

[Rumbles]

If its the donut on the end of the transaxle that is the problem, you can just cut off the donut.

[LCD Gauges]

After disconnecting the coil-overs, and finding the tightest point of travel, the shafts moved:
> 13/16" end play RR

> 7/8" end play LR

That's one less expense, and hurdle for those choosing this option.

Still best to check your car as tolerances will vary.

[LCD Gauges]

For those considering a G96, 6 speed as an option, let me say that axle lengths as supplied from FFR are not an issue, and the modifcation for the transaxle mount is fairly simple.
It took me about an hour to get everything cut to size, and test fit. The tools required:
- metal saw
- grinder
- measuring tape
- scribe

Remove the flanges first, then cut the cross bar section from the mount. Clean up the sharp edges, and paint with the grinder to prep for welding. Scribe the flanges, along with the mating section of the trans-mount once you have checked the measurement. At this point, if I had a welder, I'd tack the flanges in place before removing them.
Unfortunately, I'll have to mark their place, and take photos for the person who will be performing the welds.

It appears my diagrams were too complex; the additonal support is not needed because the orignal design has support bars extended down just inches away from the flanges.
Once the dual bolts are torqued through the mount, it should be more than rigid enough. We'll see during the karting stage. Once the piece returns from welding, I'll clean up
the welds, and paint it.

1188111882118831188511886

Next stop: Fuel system!

[LCD Gauges]

New starter, an alternative to the IMI. Just a slight mod required to the KEP plate for the G96.
1189211893
I'll be mounting it, and shimming it tomorrow afternoon.

[fastthings]

Hi Tino,
Your making some good progress, looks good.
I have a concern that I hope Kabacj, or JCracer chimes in on. The mount you just made has a double bar desing to give enough strenght to hold up the trans, you just eliminated the strenght by cutting it in half. I would think you'll need to add some brace to make up for the loss. Maybe not???

Gene

[LCD Gauges]

Thanks Gene. In the diagram previous to my last post, I factored in some additional bracing to account for torsion, and forces as the car bounced around.
After putting it into place, it appears that the existing tubing will be strong enough. I'm not opposed to adding a bar across the back side to increase the rigidity,
or some angled braces between the cross-bar, and lower legs.

The only trouble is that I'm not a welder, and don't own a welder. I'll have to wait until my trans-mount is back for test fitting, and then make arrangements to
add material. I kept the piece that was cut out in case it needs to be added for more support.

[mikespms]

11915

Hi Tino,

Gene makes a good point on that mount, not so much as far as torsion but shear, in a frontal impact or a vary hard stop you only have your mounts keeping the engine from coming forward. The mount on the g96-50 is different and I didn't have to cut that brace. But I had to move it back and remove the brackets from the down legs for the shifter cables and bracket. I cut the mount brackets like you did and cut the top brace and down legs of the hoop re aligned it and welded it back together.

[LCD Gauges]

Good point about the shear forces. I think I"ll add some angle braces forming triangles between the outer frame, and the cross bar. I'll also weld in the shorter pieces as suggested
in my first diagram to reduce any vertical flexing.

Welds, and metal braces are inexpensive; rebuilding a GTM isn't!

[LCD Gauges]

The mount is back, and everything fits nicely. Now I'll measure up some lengths to help firm up the cross bar.

Today I spent a few hours figuring out the postitioning for the shift linkage. It turns out there's just enough room
on the G50, right side, transaxle mount to place the bracket. A ittle drilling, cutting, and grinding but it's
finally into place.

After the final welds are complete, it will all come off a third time for paint, then everything can
get torqued down for the final install.

1195511956119581195911960


This will not work here! When the engine/transaxle twist, the shifter is going to shake, and/or possibly
fall out of gear. Going to have to mount the top bracket to the transaxle as well. .. don't know what I was thinking!

11957


Tomorrow, I'm picking up the water pump, amd fuel system components. The light is getting brighter at the end of the tunnel....

[LCD Gauges]

Just some eye candy today as I rework the upper shift link location. Fuel tanks will get modified, and then the briaded hose gets routed.

I think I'm done spending for a while...? Billet AL electric water pump, AN adapter fittings, regulator, filter, and braided hose.

Decided to go electric to solve the belt issue, and apparent slipping that many have reported.
11965
Using AN adapter fittings to convert the fuel hose to Stainless ProFlex braided. No need to change the pump, or fuel rails with this setup.
The stock pump and rails will support over 500 HP which made this option a no-brainer for my engine requirements. A regulator
is not necessary, but I'm planning to modify the in-tank setup, as well as plan for future upgrades.
119661196811969
Exhaust cross-over is welded closed. Just need to clean up the ports, and check port matching before bolting them up.
1197011971
Couldn't stand the rust, so I decided to paint the brackets yellow which will be the colour of the car.
I have a three-tone idea for the calipers; we'll see if I can pull it off.
1197211973

[LCD Gauges]

The starter, and water pump have been fitted. There appears to be more clearance for cooling lines; I'll just have to convert everything over to braided ho$$$e now.

Mounting the starter wasn't fun...well...because I did things a little backwards. I was told the stock starter would work, so the KEP plate went into place, and the transaxle
got thread locked, and torqued down.

It turns out the stock starter wont fit into the machined hole on the flywheel side of the adapter plate because of the GM starter housing. Instead, I grabbed an MSD high
torque starter which appeared to have the same mounting capability as the IMI mini-starter. Nope...not really! The KEP machined hole sits approximately one inch above
the gear access position of the OEM starter.

Long story short, the metal hole saw cutter came out of the tool box, and the KEP plate received a make-over. Please don't try this at home. :(
For anyone wanting to use the stock starter, or MSD starter, here's a tip:
Drill the KEP plate before mounting to the block. It's a 45 second job, and will save you tons of headache as opposed to trying to fit between the roll cage, engine,
and suspension.

In the end, I got my way but it was a hell of a fight. Hopefully this news will save someone else some time, effort, and maybe money if wanting to use the G96 with
the Corvette / MSD starter.

The water pump looks great; too bad I wont see it after the interior gets installed. It should free up a nice handful of power, and keep the engine well within proper
temperature range. Next task is modifying the fuel tanks, and running the PCM harness.

11993119941199511996

[LCD Gauges]

A few days of frustration as I'm having trouble getting parts from suppliers. Some items are back-ordered, and some just don't exist! I had to make a couple of stops at
CDN Tire, and Home Depot for coupler/reducers to make the cooling system work out. I'm still having trouble finding a 1 3/4 flex hose (braided) that will fit the pump
coupling. I may end up resorting to a rubberized flex hose afterall.

The PCM is going to get parked in the area which was reserved for the fuse box. I'm not using the Vette OEM harness so this location seems practical, and clean. Eventually
I'll make a metal cover to bolt over the opening for a finished look.

At this point I'm waiting for the fuel cross-over ports to dry from the sealer, then I'll test them for leaks before installing the tanks. I guess the next step will be finishing the
fuel line plumbing from the pump to the remote regulator. This car is just days away from a test start!

12146121471214812149

[Rumbles]

I see you are using a by-pass fuel pressure regulator.

I'm using a Walbro 392 fuel pump which is rated at 255LPH @ 60PSI to feed my stock LS3. My understanding is that the LS3 requires 58-60 PSI fuel pressure, so if I use a 60PSI fuel pump, do I really need a pressure regulator? With no by-pass regulator, will the Walbro pump eventually overheat and fail, due to low fuel flow to cool the pump?

[Kempo]

I see you are using a by-pass fuel pressure regulator.

I'm using a Walbro 392 fuel pump which is rated at 255LPH @ 60PSI to feed my stock LS3. My understanding is that the LS3 requires 58-60 PSI fuel pressure, so if I use a 60PSI fuel pump, do I really need a pressure regulator? With no by-pass regulator, will the Walbro pump eventually overheat and fail, due to low fuel flow to cool the pump?

You still need a regulator. The rating on the pump is the amount of LPH it will move when regulated to 60PSI. If you fully close the return the pressure should go up to 100+PSI. There is a GM filter that has a return built into it and a regulator inside the tank (i"m almost sure the stock corvette tanks have this).If using QRP tanks you will need an external regulator.

[LCD Gauges]

I see you are using a by-pass fuel pressure regulator.

I'm using a Walbro 392 fuel pump which is rated at 255LPH @ 60PSI to feed my stock LS3. My understanding is that the LS3 requires 58-60 PSI fuel pressure, so if I use a 60PSI fuel pump, do I really need a pressure regulator? With no by-pass regulator, will the Walbro pump eventually overheat and fail, due to low fuel flow to cool the pump?


It's best to check with the MFG, but in my experience, you will have no problem. A regulator is still required as Kempo says. There will be fluctuations in voltage, and pressure which will load, and unload the pump. The regulator is the insurance to prevent damage to the pump over extended periods.

In my case, the regulator is a bit for show, but also for future considerations. Having the ability to change pressure at the regulator, as opposed to ripping out the tank/pump is always a plus.
Even in the event of a regulator failure...better to have a remote unit, as opposed to in-tank.

It's also nice to have the regulator as close to the fuel rails as possible to ensure the pressure is most consistent. It's not a huge deal as the fuel pump distance is only a few feet in the case of the GTM;
it's splitting hairs really.

[Rumbles]

Thanks for the clarification,

I'll be using an external pump, and an external regulator with a port for the pressure meter.

[LCD Gauges]

Fuel lines are connected. Tanks are cleaned, and sealed. The pumps are bolted down (leak test is next). Still waiting on cooling system components so I'll shift my focus to
the electrical, and PCM communication with HP Tuners. It's looking more like the end of the month for an engine start unless the parts arrive early this week.

122131221412215

[VD2021]

Tino,
Looks like you're doing something different with the crossover fitting location. Where exactly did you place it? I can't tell from the picture.

[LCD Gauges]

If you're looking down from the top, the fittings were drilled at the sides facing inward to the engine. It seemed like a more directly route, and less bends.

[VD2021]

If you're looking down from the top, the fittings were drilled at the sides facing inward to the engine. It seemed like a more directly route, and less bends.

Any pictures of the tank in the chassis?

[LCD Gauges]

No photo at this time, but I'll snap one tomorrow. Here's a quick sketch though:

The 90 degree AN fittings are facing forward, an the hose is looped just in front of the crank pulley
with about 6 inches of clearance.

12235

[LCD Gauges]

Here you go sir!

The fitting isn't connected, but this is how it lays.

12239122421224012241

Running electrical today, and connecting the mock-up panel for engine start. Fun stuff.

[VD2021]

Here you go sir!

The fitting isn't connected, but this is how it lays.

12239122421224012241

Running electrical today, and connecting the mock-up panel for engine start. Fun stuff.

Thanks. But I really wanted to see where the fitting was relative to the chassis bars in that area.

So what day are you looking at for the first start:cool:?

[LCD Gauges]

How about this angle (driver's side)? I'm not sure about the date; still waiting on cooling system parts to be delivered.

If they show up this week, and the isntall goes well I'll say Monday 15th. for 1st start.

1224312244

[LCD Gauges]

I'm really getting tired of waiting for parts to ship from my suppliers. Friggin' back-order,
and special order parts are terrible!

Not much can be done until the rest of the cooling system parts arrive,
and nobody wants to see wiring (right?)!

Here are some random shots as I'm dragging my butt through the wiring detail.

Passenger side fuel tank capped, threaded, and sealed for high pressure return.
1240512407

Cooling system return connected, and checked for clearance.
124061240912408

[LCD Gauges]

Finishing up some loose ends with the electrical, and then I'll be able to communicate with the PCM, and check the starter shimming. 2-3 weeks longer for the cooling system parts as I had to special order from a new supplier. This car may go-kart before the snow hits!

I found these power blocks to run stereo wiring, and also serve to route main power to the fuse panels. I'll see if there's a way to make them look less 'stereo competitionish' as theylay in the GTM.

12503

[LCD Gauges]

Movin' along with the exhaust, and wiring. I'm thinking tomorrow night will be the PCM comm. check with HP Tuners. The start circuits should also be ready for testing!

Right now I'm cutting up some pieces to map out the exhaust. I'll be using three inch mandrel bent piping from the collector, to the tips. There appears to be enough room
for a cross-over pipe even with the intake air box mounted at the rear. At the moment I'll leave it without mufflers until the car is ready for plating!

125681256912570

Now I'll have to buy welder to tack the pieces in place. Ohhh dear, more tools in the house...what a shame! :D

[LCD Gauges]

Saw these lights today, and I think I'm in love? 2013 Malibu.

1257912580

I think they would be easier to 'glass in than Audi A8 lights?

12582

[LCD Gauges]

I don't know why I'm posting this update? Maybe just to make it appear like my build is moving forward. No sign of cooling parts yet. Still researching welders.
My car is just sitting in limbo, with some pieces tagged on for fitting, and testing.

Some green painters tape to hold the elbow in place. Even the piece on the right is a test pipe, and will be replaced. The axle bolts are barely inserted. Why do I post this you ask? Just cuz.
I'm thinking I'll have to fab up some sort of heat sheid to protect the speed sensor. It's gonna get hotttttttttttttttt!
13071

Installed the filter to keep the dust out of the intake. This will be replaced with an insulated air box after the mufflers are fitted, and the body goes on.
I don't like how close the filter sits to the hot exhaust.
13072
Here's just a random shot of where I'm at this week. Maybe I'll get some power connected to the computer tomorrow, and see if she talks!
13073

So close, yet so far.

Have a good evening my FFR friends.

[carbon fiber]

most people relocate the air filter. you're right, it'll just be sucking really hot air right in the engine.

[LCD Gauges]

^ We might as well plumb the exhaust directly into the intake. It would make one hell of a 'charger! :D

One more baby step forward as I was able to get HP Tuners talking with the PCM today. All the initial settings look good
except for an odd cell value in the timing table. Not sure how that ended up there. No biggie, just weird.

13083

[mmaragos]

Saw these lights today, and I think I'm in love? 2013 Malibu.

1257912580

I think they would be easier to 'glass in than Audi A8 lights?

12582

I think that you are going to have an issue with the 'wrap-around' nature of these taillights. You pretty much have a flat surface on the GTM where the taillights are, it would take a heck of a lot of work to fit lights that wrap like that. I will show what I did soon...I am almost done.

[LCD Gauges]

Please do; I'd love to see your ideas, and your build photos.

I'm not sold on any lights at the moment. I have a list of about nine lights that might work. The Audi A8 is really cool looking, but may be too big to fit in the space. I'll just keep dreaming until that point in the build arrives.

P.S. My cooling system parts finally arrived! I'll be getting the motor buttoned up this week, and hopefully post an engine start video by mid month.

[LCD Gauges]

So here's the remote thermostat housing that held me back. This will be "fun" to connect while keeping all braided lines, and coolant hoses away from the motor,
yet out of the rear view mirror.

13149
I'm torn on this water pump/remote housing setup. It solved some clearance issues, but also created some set backs, not to mention the expense. There is a
bleeder valve at the top which should make purging air a snap. My biggest peeve is the cooling hose that will route just over my right shoulder. It shouldn't be
an issue for blind spot checks, but the hose will probably be seen in the rear view mirror. I'm tentative about this location, but I don't see any other way.

1315213153

If anyone can think of an alterantive, I'm all ears (eyes)! The only other criteria is that the intake manifold, and fuel lines are not to contact the hose.

1315013151

Next will be plumbing the AN lines to the heater core, fluids & priming, then setting connecting the ignition wires for start-up.

[LCD Gauges]

Rear lights for the GTM? I'm thinking yes...maybe. These would make the top five on my list for appearance, and maybe #1 for ease of install.

1332413325


This is a customer's car which will be getting a s/c upgrade. Interior is sparse. Very little room, and quite loud from the engine noise.
133261332713328

How about the lights on this Diablo instead? They are flat enough, and probably worth more than my car.
Love the sound of that engine. The Lambo was turning heads, and slowing traffic from the opposite direction
at the intersection. Wish I had my GTM so I could feel somewhat important...I don't think anyone was checking
out my Saturn. :(

http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=10151536225004148

[LCD Gauges]

A better view

http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=10151536243669148

Speaking of views, how did you like the opening scene of the movie, "Flight"? :cool:

[narkosys]

Right now I am tossing up between those but with the European amber turn signals or a set of Hella rear light modules. The Lotus ones are still at the top because, to me, they look better and more refined.

P

[LCD Gauges]

I agree 'Nark, the Lotus lights look better, however much more expensive.

The cooling system is complete; just some hose clamps for the heater core pipe,
and I'll be able to test the pump, and check for leaks.

Sorry about the poor quality pics.

133651336613367

If all goes well, and I'm not too lazy the engine will fire up this weekend.

[LCD Gauges]

As you see from the photo the fuel tank is positioned, and the firewall pieces
are resting in place.

Is there supposed to be a space between the roll bar, and window section?

I can't push the fuel tanks back any further, which means I'll need to fabricate
a bracket to hold the window, and firewall to the roll bar, correct?


13499

P.S. I'm grabbing some oil, and coolant this afternoon. Egine Start video to come soon!

[RF RIDER]

Tino;
your gas tank needs to go back more, the blue pipe from the tank should almost be touching the round tubing that the rear window panel mounts too.
not sure what year your tanks are, but some have had to heat them up on one side to push them into place. I had to push mine in a little with some force, but I had more
foam protection between the tank and frame.

[Edgeman]

I also had to grind down the seams on the bottom of the tank. The were sticking up about 1/8" to 1/4" this would not allow the tank to side all the way back.

[LCD Gauges]

Thanks guys. This is probably covered in the manual, but I stopped reading it months ago!

[The Stig]

Thanks guys. This is probably covered in the manual, but I stopped reading it months ago!

Hi Tino.

If I remember correctly, it seems that the rear of the tanks were supposed to be gradually heated with a torch held away from the tank, so that the plastic would give a bit. Then you gently move the tank into place, and allow it to cool once you have it pushed all the way back. Obviously you'll want to make surethat they are empty and clear of any fumes.

I used the aluminum tanks so I didn't actually have to do this myself. I can't remember if I read this in the manual, or in one of the posts...

Take Care,

Mike

[LCD Gauges]

Mike, at this point I've decided to make brackets to allow the tanks to fit as-is. I may have to rework the engine cover, but I'm not feeling the desire to melt down the tanks for
a couple of inches of firewall clearance. Unless the displaced firewall interfere's with the interior, it's my game plan.

Today I finally finished the right side tank installation. I'm left with a few minor connections, and then I have no excuse for delaying the test start of the motor. Tomorrow I'm
going to dedicate some time to wiring the ignition, and pressure testing the cooling, and fuel system.

Saturday is the video upload with, or without a running motor! :eek:

Just a bit of spaghetti wiring to clean, and loom-up. Fuel, and cooling system complete.
13576

Common grounding block for engine, and interior electrical systems. Today, red means ground! Since
this will be covered up, I'm not too concerned about the spider cracks in the case. Just don't tell anyone...
13577
Gauges are hooked up, and tested. Let's hope the engine produces some pressure during prime.
13578

Gauge pod with matching texture. Should go well with the dash covering. It may need to be reupholstered for the final install.
13579

[RF RIDER]

Tino;
you need to get the tanks in where they belong. If I am not mistaken, the tanks you have come from a 2000 model year. (pretty sure thats what Alain told me).
a lot of things will be affect with the tank a few inchs forward. rear firewall will not fit, engine cover will be pushed forward and will interfer with center dash piece that extends
to the rear engine cover. plus it will add gaps to the sides were aluminum gets riveted to tunnel.
I would trim off all the excess seams, as I had to do that. and just wiggle the tanks until that are just about in, then the aluminum covers will hold it nicely in.
last resort, get another set of tanks. it will less headache in the long run.

[LCD Gauges]

I'm going to re-work the tanks after the engine start/karting stage if necessary. My focus right now is getting the engine, and exhaust complete so I can get the body
back on for door fitting, etc.

Today I picked up this huge, ugly looking thing. It will be nice for priming the motor before starts, and supplying oil/oil pressure in the event of a drop out. Where to install it,
and how to make it sexier... remove the sticker, and powder coat? Paint it something other than bare aluminum? Planning to remove that handle for an electric valve that
will activate on each start. Find a solution for one thing, and then create more work it seems!

13586

[LCD Gauges]

I know, I know...no start video! Fair enough, you'll get it this weekend.

Picked up a bunch of stuff for the oil system, and interior however!

Accelerator pedal, seat rails, power window motors/regulators, windshield fluid pump, dual power mirrors, door handles. $1320 all in.
Not bad pricing considering the dealer wants $750 per window system.

1369713698
I'm pretty much $50K in the hole. Already surpassed my budget/forecast by $5K, and I still need paint, rims, tires, windshield, etc.

Makes me wish I had gone the donor route, but I doubt it would have been possible to get a C5 for less than $15K.

[crash]

Makes me wish I had gone the donor route, but I doubt it would have been possible to get a C5 for less than $15K.

Actually IIRC I have been seeing people getting donors for less than $5k. You may have to replace a suspension arm or two, but you can replace a lot of those with $10-12k!

[LCD Gauges]

I'd love to know your contacts because there is nothing around here, or even border side for that little. I had my car dealer friend check auctions, and everything.
Nobody is giving up the Vette's, and certainly not trashing them in the wreckers (checked there too).

The closest I found was a half-hacked C5 in your state, but it was too much, and the shipping would have been hell.

On another note, the GTM battery is at 9.8 Volts. :( The computer isn't connecting to HP Tuners, and the MIL LED is on.

No start video today, but I bought myself a charger for an early Christmas present. We'll see how my luck goes tomorrow!
So close, yet so damn far!

[crash]

Fuzzy was the master/middle man on those deals. Haven't seen him around much lately, but he did some great work in getting some good deals for people that needed a donor...as I recall.

[LCD Gauges]

Fuzzy was a bear, and Fuzzy had no hair. Where was Fuzzy when I needed him!? :mad:

Another tid-bit of bad luck with the start date: The oil adapter thread does not mate with the filter adapter coupler which means
the accumulator cannot be installed.

I'll have to find a thread that will fit the oil galley, and work with the oil adapter fitting. Here's hoping that a local hardware store will
have a fitting for my setup. Then, I'll have to replace the oil filter to mate with the accumulator adapter.

On a positive note, the engine is filled with coolant, and no leaks (so far). The water pump is working, but the pressure test will
happen once the engine is running. The AutoTap, and HP Tuner scanners show that all sensors are responding.

1384113842

[LCD Gauges]

I found a solution for the accumulator after some browsing on Russell's site. A quick test fit set the ball in motion to order a metric adapter,
and plumb the system into the upper oil port of the block. A bit more work as the manifold had to be removed, and the -10 braided line was
scrapped for -8 size because there wasn't a 16mm adapter for -10 hose! It's a good thing I'm made of money...

Once all that was assembled, the electo-mag valve wouldn't test. I figured the valve was faulty, so apart it came. Didn't see anything wrong;
but hold that thought.

Ultimately the electro-valve was omitted, and the line was connected directly to the manual valve on the accumulator - at least that would allow
me to prime the motor. With a shot of compressed air, the cylinder pressurized, then I cracked the valve. Oil could be heard flowing into the motor,
as well as down to the pan. A quick check of the dipstick indicated the correct amount of oil was infused.

The sad part of the day happened to be test start; or should I say, "Lack of test start". The battery appears to be faulty as it wont hold a charge.
After a night on charge, the voltage drops to about 10.3 with only the PCM loading the circuit, and a severe drop to 3 volts when trying to run the
the fuel pump.

I'd like to think the fuel pump is fine, but I'll test it with another battery BEFORE yanking the GTM battery...cuz we all know how fun that's going to be!
With the PCM loading down the battery to 10.3 volts, I'm pretty sure the fuel pump is not the problem.

Some days I just want to quit. It has been uphill for a quite a while now.


Fuel, and vacuum gauges in place waiting for the start test. Accumulator is pressurized to ~70 PSI.
1393913940
Alternate location for accumulator feed. Looks pretty good here, and away from the exhaust.
139411394213943

[LCD Gauges]

Success! Removed the battery from my daily driver, and hooked up the GTM electrical. The computer spooled up, and the fuel pump buzzed a nice, healthy tone.
It appears I'll be able to startup the engine tomorrow (if all is well)!

For those in the early stages of build: Do yourself a favour and install a battery that is small enough to remove without dismantling half the front end. With a little
force, I was lucky enough to remove the battery while keeping the steering rack in place. I'm going to find a smaller, lighter replacement which shouldn't be a problem.
It's also a good time to relocate the A/C hoses because we all know it's just a matter of time before the battery will need to be swapped again.

An extra inch of width, and an extra inch of length built into the GTM would solve many problems.
1396813969

[sk7500]

Some days I just want to quit. It has been uphill for a quite a while now.


Hang in there Tino. We,ve all been there. You are so very close to a huge infusion of enthusiasm the first time you hear your baby fire up. Remember the harder the battle the sweeter the victory. Just how sweet will your victory be?

Steve

[LCD Gauges]

Hey Steve, you know a GTM owner would never give up. We (myself mostly) just like to vent!

It has been a couple of years since my SS was sold, so hearing and feeling a V8 light-up will be VERY sweet.

Now get over here, and paint my car! :cool:

[Fraser D]

Tino.

Invest in a battery tender that is correct for your battery and you won’t have these issues in the future.
I resisted and after removing mine a couple of times, (Optima red) to go and get it checked thinking that I had smoked it, (it was OK but my traditional charger was not good for a gel cell), I have not regretted the cost.
The Optima red is not too big but Effin heavy for the leverage that you can provide in that little space.
Rebuilding a car from a car manufacturer is still a pain in the butt and that is one that has already been together previously and driven so just keep that in mind. With your GTM you are going where no one has been before. You are in the true sense "building" this car. Something to be proud of, frustrated and pissed off at the same time. ;-)

[Taz Rules]

So GTM owners are just like their cars...if they don't vent properly they overheat and blow up?

[LCD Gauges]

Dave, I picked up a charger last week, but it didn't help. The regulator would show 12.6 volts, and stop charging the battery. As soon as I put any sort of load on the system, the voltage would drop significantly.
Even something as light as the PCM would drop 2.5 volts. It couldn't even power the fuel pump. Battery can't charge.

This kit has been sitting for several years before I bought it; and 1.5 years since being in my possession.

I'm happy knowing that I'm ten minutes away from a test start! :D

No more venting for a while, I promise.

[sk7500]

So GTM owners are just like their cars...if they don't vent properly they overheat and blow up?

LOL! Good one and so true.

[MGDBuddy]

If you are loosing voltage when you put any real load on the electrical system and know that you have a good battery, check to see if the battery cables are the problem. I had this problem one time and found the "new " battery cables corroded inside the factory crimped ends. When I replaced the cables with more new cables the problem was solved. Cut the removed "new" cable ends off and found corrosion inside. NOT VISIBLE UNTIL i CUT THEM APART.

[LCD Gauges]

Thanks for the reply. All of the cables, and connectors are new.
I've already used the battery in the photo (top one), and
All the accessories came to life.

Video time, start-up time tomorrow. First crank, no leaks? I can only hope!

[LCD Gauges]

bahhhhhhhh...No fuel pressure.

Guess I'll have to check the pump, and ensure there's enough fuel in the tank for the pick-up.

There's nothing coming out of the send port at all; I'm hoping it's low fuel level.

[LCD Gauges]

Played around a bit more, and found that the plastic bag covering the filler neck (aka. old crossover tube) is getting sucked into the tank ("pushed" for the physics geeks).

It appears the pump is taking in air, and my fuel level is too low; there is about two liters of fuel split between both tanks. I can't tip the tank enough to pool the gas on
one side unfortunately.

Tomorrow is the day? :confused:

[Kempo]

Glad you found the problem. Can't wait to see the video of that first start.

[Taz Rules]

Played around a bit more, and found that the plastic bag covering the filler neck (aka. old crossover tube) is getting sucked into the tank ("pushed" for the physics geeks).

It appears the pump is taking in air, and my fuel level is too low; there is about two liters of fuel split between both tanks. I can't tip the tank enough to pool the gas on
one side unfortunately.

Tomorrow is the day? :confused:

Hey, don't feel bad. I once spent 45 minutes pulling on the starter rope for a snowblower before I thought to check the tank!:confused:

[LCD Gauges]

Not so smooth:
- Fuel issue ended up being too little fuel in the tank, and a busted FP gauge.
- Leaking at the pump seal, and cross-over. Hoping that the AN fitting was just loose. Not sure about the pump seal yet.
- Engine backfire. Loaded with fuel? Vacuum leak? Other? Hmmmm...time to figure it out.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NMOX1GBBkD0&amp;feature=youtu.be

[LCD Gauges]

Checking around for vacuum leaks, loose connectors, loose bolts, and guess what I found?

The cam sensor harness was not fully seated. I had removed that to plumb an oil line to prime the engine. :o

EDIT: looking back at this photo, you can see that the clip is not even hooked. I did remember to tighten the
bolts though.
14061


Hopefully, that's all it takes to fire the motor. Going to have some dinner, and then clean up my mess around the car.

If it's not too late, I'll try to start it this evening. The neighbours are gonna love me!

[Kalstar]

Really looking forward to hearing your toy blast up and down the street.

Question....are you still an F-Body guy at heart??