MJS Mk4 Build Thread

[MSumners]

Figured I should get this kicked off. The stars aligned and tomorrow, on my 40th birthday, the stewart truck is scheduled to arrive and drop off the kit sometime mid-day. Ordered in December and completion day was March 9th. I've spent a great deal of time researching on this forum and going through threads that others have been so thorough in creating. A special thanks to edwardb, wareaglescott, badasp, dadofthree and others as I already learned so much from following threads and questions. I'm not sure I would take this on if it were not for the forum help available. I don't have a ton of experience and I would imagine most of my posts will be along the lines of "check out this picture and let me known what you think", so thanks ahead of time. Probably I will try to update weekly. Most of the time Ill have will be weekends and an hour or two most nights of the week after the rest of the fam goes to sleep, so I won't be flying through this thing. I'll try to take the good advice from many on this site and research first and execute second.


So to get to it, the build plan thus far:
Complete kit, powder coat
IRS, Red Wilwoods, 18" Halibrand
Just kept the bare pipes in the kit and planning either quiet pipes or Gas'n
Dart 347 EFI with mech throttle and hydraulic clutch, Liberty TKO 600, Quick time housing, in tank pump, trick flow filter.
Leather seats
Custom dash to be determined
Breeze parts so far: Radiator shroud, upper and lower radiator mount, front battery box.
Dual Breeze roll bars
Still some things I'm certain will change along the way..


Maybe this pic attachment will work?
If it does, garage ready for delivery

104153
Needed a place to store the body and figured ceiling of the back third stall would work. We will see tomorrow how close my measurements are if this will actually work. I have a separate pulley system I rigged up to take the body on and off as I'll be solo for the vast majority of the time. Of course this was inspired by others.

[MSumners]

Picture seemed to go through but not sure how to rotate it as its sideways.

Anyhow, received the Wilwoods last week and figured I would try my hand at safety wiring as I've never done that before.
After the first couple I got the hang of it, mostly it was hard just from the small space to pull the wires through but some needle nose pliers did this trick fine.
For those doing it for the first time, from another beginner, one piece of advice.
As below, once you have the wire through the first bolt the key for me was standing straight over the second bolt and lining up where to clamp the wires. Based on specifically where the hole was in the bolt you can make small adjustments so the twisted portion ends right where you need it at the next bolt.
See picture
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[BadAsp427]

Congratulations. Thanks for the shout out. It is actually quite fun to build this car. If you can stay on a good steady schedule and work that schedule, it will come together very quickly. Again congratulations and let us all know if you have any questions.

[edwardb]

Welcome fellow Michigander. From the other side of the state. Congrats on your order and sounds like a nice build. Planning power steering? You won't regret it. I loved the Dart 347 in my 7750 build. For a pushrod motor. :p Adding EFI is a nice touch. Will be interested to hear how it works for you. Very nice job on the safety wires. Really the first time? If you ever get over this direction, Dream Cruise, or whatever, give me a shout out. Lots of enthusiasts and a great club over here. Good luck with your delivery and settle in for a nice enjoyable build. Along with lots of others on here, ready and willing to help.

[Straversi]

Happy 40th! Congratulations and welcome. Look forward to following your progress
-Steve

[Boydster]

Welcome to The Fray. I have loved having my car to work on, even if it's only the extra hour or two you mention. Safety wire looks great.

[Higgybulin]

Good look! Exciting times these are!
Higgy

[MSumners]

Delivery Day!
All was smooth but I actually couldn't get back from work early afternoon so papa helped out.

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[MSumners]

Some initial inventory questions.

1: These locknuts look almost oval and the threads look uneven. I've never come across this before. Is this normal?
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2: Anyone know what these are, the inventory list they came with is pictured as well.
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3: Are these the "aluminum edge trim"
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4: Are these the 10mm and 1/4 brake line adaptor?
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5: Quickjacks?
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Thanks for any help!

[edwardb]

Partial answers:

1. Those are distorted lock nuts. That's how they're supposed to be.

2. Those are the U-nuts listed. Something to do with brake lines, but I've not used them on my builds, so not exactly sure what they're for.

3. Aluminum edge trim in the past was a smaller size white nylon material that you glued around sharp edges to prevent chafing on wires, convolute, etc. Maybe replaced with something like that, but I don't know.

4. Don't know. Haven't used those pieces either.

5. Those are for hood pins. I'm assuming you (like every kit delivery for the past xx years) have hood hinges. A mystery to me why they're still included. Scrap metal.

[MSumners]

Thanks for the info I appreciate it

This isn't a question but just made me laugh, I love how one is Made in India and the other is "Made in India"
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[jeffhelms56]

Congrats! I’m just a little bit ahead of you. Bolt by bolt - rivet by rivet! Looking forward to following your build thread.

[Jeff Kleiner]

4. Yes

Those, like the hood pin plates and some assorted connectors, relays, etc. are vestiges of the pure donor concept. I think the packages that include bits and pieces such as these are prepared in bulk and go out with every kit regardless of whether the parts are applicable or not. Somewhere along the way it's probably been calculated and determined that it is less costly to simply include a few dollars worth of items which may not be necessary rather than to expend the labor and paperwork needed to "pick & pull" on a kit by kit basis.

Jeff

[MSumners]

4. Yes

Those, like the hood pin plates and some assorted connectors, relays, etc. are vestiges of the pure donor concept. I think the packages that include bits and pieces such as these are prepared in bulk and go out with every kit regardless of whether the parts are applicable or not. Somewhere along the way it's probably been calculated and determined that it is less costly to simply include a few dollars worth of items which may not be necessary rather than to expend the labor and paperwork needed to "pick & pull" on a kit by kit basis.

Jeff

Gotcha, thank you

Nearly finished with detailed inventory, not bad overall. Actually fun to go through everything. That wiring harness gets your attention. Probably the most daunting part of the build for me. So far just missing a few random screws and nuts and nothing on the POL list that would hold me up at all. And a couple boxes were mislabeled but everything became accounted for. Good to go through everything in detail and know all the parts.

[Railroad]

If those fender nuts, u nuts, are 3/8" they may be used for the front gas tank straps. F5 sent nyloc nuts with my kit, but I bought some of the fender nuts and with a little grinding, made them work. No holding the nut, to install or remove the front strap bolts.

[Fixit]

I love this place...
I was just about to post about the above #5 brackets - what are they for?? Now I know.

(pretty intricate laser-cut piece/stamping to just toss...)

[MSumners]

If those fender nuts, u nuts, are 3/8" they may be used for the front gas tank straps. F5 sent nyloc nuts with my kit, but I bought some of the fender nuts and with a little grinding, made them work. No holding the nut, to install or remove the front strap bolts.

Thanks for the tip I’ll keep that in mind!

[MSumners]

Still going through inventory!
All in all not bad. I need to study the pedalbox instructions though I couldn’t even identify what some of the things may have been on the inventory. After I do that if I still can’t figure some parts out I’ll post questions. Looked in every box again twice and still couldn’t find the rear view mirror or the quickjacks. Other than that just a few random nuts and bolts.

1:Are these the hood hinges?
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2: Rear view mirror tool?
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3: I have no idea
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Thanks again for the help.!

[MSumners]

Welcome fellow Michigander. From the other side of the state. Congrats on your order and sounds like a nice build. Planning power steering? You won't regret it. I loved the Dart 347 in my 7750 build. For a pushrod motor. :p Adding EFI is a nice touch. Will be interested to hear how it works for you. Very nice job on the safety wires. Really the first time? If you ever get over this direction, Dream Cruise, or whatever, give me a shout out. Lots of enthusiasts and a great club over here. Good luck with your delivery and settle in for a nice enjoyable build. Along with lots of others on here, ready and willing to help.

Sorry late reply to earlier post. Thank you, yes first attempt at safety wires. Really took some force to get them pulled tight and I felt that for the next couple days. I just picked up some cheapo safety wire pliers and they seemed to work fine. Actually gripped the wore really well. The pliers I used in my other hand slipped intermittently and I ended up with bloody knuckles a couple times.
I am actually out your way a fair amount and I’m also doing the build course in a couple weeks. Sometime I’m heading out maybe I could stop through and check out the build, especially later when I have more pointed questions it would be good to see some particular aspects in person.
Thanks again. !
Mike

[BadAsp427]

Still going through inventory!
All in all not bad. I need to study the pedalbox instructions though I couldn’t even identify what some of the things may have been on the inventory. After I do that if I still can’t figure some parts out I’ll post questions. Looked in every box again twice and still couldn’t find the rear view mirror or the quickjacks. Other than that just a few random nuts and bolts.

1:Are these the hood hinges?
104360

2: Rear view mirror tool?
104361

3: I have no idea
104362

Thanks again for the help.!


1 - Trunk lid Hinges
2 - Windshield Wiper Drill Guide/tool
3 - Left in photo, Fuel Tank filler tube holder and right in photo, Fuel filter holder- will be used with large hose clamp and fuel filter

[MSumners]

104539
Body off, inventory done. Time to get to work.

[MSumners]

104540

[MSumners]

Working nonstop this week so not much happening until the weekend. Did put the lower control arms in but not tightened down as I’m getting shorter bolts for the front.
Is this too much of a gap to have prior to tightening everything down?
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[MSumners]

Also flipped the upper arms around.
Verifying these are correct?
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[MSumners]

Trying to get either the factory or the aftermarket Moog ball joints in was not even close to happening. I’ll try the wire wheel and see if I get anywhere.

[Fixit]

Here's a link (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27544-The-40-Watt-Garage-9365-Initial-Body-Fitment&p=333508&viewfull=1#post333508) to #9365's front suspension.
On pic 2 you can just see a hint of the spacer washer on the aft pivot of the LCA. I wouldn't "pull" it tight, slide in a washer.

[MSumners]

Thanks, adjusted the tabs and got the spacing set right before torquing it down.

[MSumners]

Still trying to get the balljoints in. Both the included mevtechs and the Moog 772 I can’t even get the threads started. Tried the wire wheel and the vise. Trying not to force it too much, I assume the threads should start fairly easily?

[Cruzzz]

Sorry about your troubles with the ball joints. I ordered a set of Moog's due to the troubles everyone was having with the Mevtechs and fortunately for me the screwed right in with very little effort. Have you tried putting the Moog's in the freezer overnight (they will shrink) and then screwing them in?

Since you are in Michigan and it is still a little cool for us northerners, you may tried applying a little heat to the end of the UCA where the ball joint screws in just before trying to screw in the frozen ball joint.

[MSumners]

I’ll try the freezer! Thanks for the advice.
In the meantime I can work on the shocks.

[edwardb]

Hard to be completely sure, but I don't think you have the UCA's re-assembled properly. The zerks have to point up, and the upper ball joint mount pointed out. Study the picture in the manual carefully, shown below.

As for the ball joints, welcome to the club. I've not had good luck with the kit provided ones either. But many say wire brushing the threads gets it done. Maybe the heat/cooling thing would help. But I wouldn't get crazy putting heat on the that ball joint mount. But that's just me maybe. Keep in mind that if you go to extraordinary lengths to get them on, you may never get them off once they have some mileage and time on them. I wouldn't be happy until they go on with reasonable force.

https://oi867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Daytona%20Coupe/Misc%20Pics/UCA_zpsr4cycmg7.jpg (https://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Daytona%20Coupe/Misc%20Pics/UCA_zpsr4cycmg7.jpg.html)

[MSumners]

Hard to be completely sure, but I don't think you have the UCA's re-assembled properly. The zerks have to point up, and the upper ball joint mount pointed out. Study the picture in the manual carefully, shown below.

As for the ball joints, welcome to the club. I've not had good luck with the kit provided ones either. But many say wire brushing the threads gets it done. Maybe the heat/cooling thing would help. But I wouldn't get crazy putting heat on the that ball joint mount. But that's just me maybe. Keep in mind that if you go to extraordinary lengths to get them on, you may never get them off once they have some mileage and time on them. I wouldn't be happy until they go on with reasonable force.

https://oi867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Daytona%20Coupe/Misc%20Pics/UCA_zpsr4cycmg7.jpg (https://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Daytona%20Coupe/Misc%20Pics/UCA_zpsr4cycmg7.jpg.html)

Agreed! I had one backwards and after looking at it earlier switched it to the correct orientation.
I’ll try the freezer but if it doesn’t go easy step back and re-assess again
Thanks!

[MSumners]

Anyone have a link to the Howe racing set that may work? If they go in without so much hassle I’ll gladly pay!
Tried the wire wheel on the factory set with no luck. I just don’t want to mess the arms up spending so much time trying to make these work.

[MSumners]

After I stepped back to re-check this whole situation, and looked through some images from prior threads, realized the upper A- arms I have are different than previously provided. The receiving threads for the ball joint, and the whole section, is covered in a similar coating as the Mevtech ball joints. - see below - I then took a small Dremel wire and smoothed out the inner threads as well BOOM - balljoints threaded in easily. Oddly enough, even after this I still could not get the Moog k772's to go in. Oh well, I only bought them in the first place because I thought it would save a hassle, if only I had known.
Anyway, they are in and ready to go.
105057

** does anyone know why all the images I upload are crooked or how I could fix it?
Thanks again!

[BadAsp427]

** does anyone know why all the images I upload are crooked or how I could fix it?
Thanks again!

So here is how I fix the image... While going through the motions here on the forums page to select the image, I first right click on the image and select "Edit" this, on my computer, will open the image in "paint". Then, all I have to do is hit save and it seems to fix the problem. While in paint, at times I will crop down the image if needed and even change some sizing. You can also add arrows or text during this. But regardless, all that is needed to get the photo to show up straight is to hit save and then upload. Hope this helps.

[MSumners]

So here is how I fix the image... While going through the motions here on the forums page to select the image, I first right click on the image and select "Edit" this, on my computer, will open the image in "paint". Then, all I have to do is hit save and it seems to fix the problem. While in paint, at times I will crop down the image if needed and even change some sizing. You can also add arrows or text during this. But regardless, all that is needed to get the photo to show up straight is to hit save and then upload. Hope this helps.

Thanks I will try this.

[MSumners]

Working on the front suspension, anyone see any issues prior to moving on. Trimmed the rear control arm adjustment sleeves and anti-seized them but realized I may have to go back and trim the bolt as well. Does anyone know if that is required or is trimming the rear sleeve enough?
Thanks again! (Thanks basasp, got the pictures oriented correctly)
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[Fixit]

There's a pretty lengthy banter about this subject on my build thread, but what it came down to was trimming off the ends of the sleeve netted me the adjustment range to get the magic 7deg's + adjustment.

Here's a link to a little device I made (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27544-The-40-Watt-Garage-9365-Initial-Body-Fitment&p=354412&viewfull=1#post354412)

[MSumners]

Are these two panels at the trunk supposed to line up perfectly on fitting?
Thanks!

105220

[MSumners]

Perfect, thanks. I remember reading that but then couldn’t remember exactly where. Hope to get by with just the sleeve modification.


There's a pretty lengthy banter about this subject on my build thread, but what it came down to was trimming off the ends of the sleeve netted me the adjustment range to get the magic 7deg's + adjustment.

Here's a link to a little device I made (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27544-The-40-Watt-Garage-9365-Initial-Body-Fitment&p=354412&viewfull=1#post354412)

[Jeff Kleiner]

Are these two panels at the trunk supposed to line up perfectly on fitting?
Thanks!

105220

Theoretically yes however the two 90 degree bends at the rear of the trunk floor are done by hand so some amount of error is not uncommon. I often have to trim that rear lip so that the rear valance can be pulled in far enough to meet the lower edge of the trunklid.

Jeff

[Jeff Kleiner]

Working on the front suspension, anyone see any issues prior to moving on. Trimmed the rear control arm adjustment sleeves and anti-seized them but realized I may have to go back and trim the bolt as well. Does anyone know if that is required or is trimming the rear sleeve enough?


I always cut back the male stubs as well so that they do not bottom out inside the sleeves.

Jeff

[doddmoore]

HEY THERE! Just now seeing this build, welcome and I look forward to reading more. Best of luck to you. I know less than anyone but hopefully I can help at some point along the way, if not I will be looking to you for help before you know it.


Mitchell

[MSumners]

Thank you sir!
So if I'm still still planning on you being my body work expert I can leave this alone correct?


Theoretically yes however the two 90 degree bends at the rear of the trunk floor are done by hand so some amount of error is not uncommon. I often have to trim that rear lip so that the rear valance can be pulled in far enough to meet the lower edge of the trunklid.

Jeff

[MSumners]

I always cut back the male stubs as well so that they do not bottom out inside the sleeves.

Jeff

Gotcha, I'll check back on the alignment and plan to do this.

[MSumners]

Made some simple progress this week
I noticed a slight list to the raised area of the caster wheels so I pulled the frame off and put 4 additional 6" lag bolts into every wheel support base. If this thing collapses it will stay where it lies.
105319

105321
Did some work getting things ready for the IRS. Used a Sawzall and a 6TPI blade to cut the ears off the knuckle , then just ground them down with a Dremel sander and 320 emery cloth. Tapped the two ABS holes and put set screws (1/4-20, 7/16-20) in with red locktite. Saw this on another thread and thought it was a good simple solution...
Rented this behemoth to torque the hub nut, but bought the wrong size socket, thought it was 1 1/2 but seems like it must be 36mm.
105324
Then cut the 5/8 hole in the corner of the knuckle and the drill went through like hot butter... so all was buzzing along just fine, enjoying the summer afternoon and all is well. Next step I get to in the instruction book casually states about the center section preparation "...chase the front mount with a 5/8 drill bit.."

105322
buzzing along with the dewaldt drill, bit catches hard enough to dead stop for the entire 90# center section to do a 360.. my arm goes the opposite way, wow, ouch. It was at that exact moment I recall someone else on here doing the same thing, probably countless others actually. Now being someone who depends on my hands to work everyday I would certainly be interested if there were a smarter way to go about this. Thought about a step drill but can't find one that maxes out at 5/8, maybe some sort of reamer? hmm. Gonna have to step back here for the night.

General observations:
1: It is impossible to have too many clecos.
2: If you are building a frame dolly just build it as if you're going to put a tank on it.
3: Look for weld spots to grind down before fitting and drilling position holes into the frame.
3: When the build manual casually says to 'chase' something proceed with caution.


Update: Ordered one of these reamer bits, looks like a smarter solution. We shall see.
105340

[MSumners]

Did you folks drill and rivet this bottom edge of the passenger footbox through the two panels into the frame?
105427

[MSumners]

HEY THERE! Just now seeing this build, welcome and I look forward to reading more. Best of luck to you. I know less than anyone but hopefully I can help at some point along the way, if not I will be looking to you for help before you know it.


Mitchell

Thanks appreciate any help!

[JohnK]

I'm a little late to the party, but here are a couple of thoughts on a few of your items:

- The threaded rods/bolts inside the adjuster sleeves are MUCH harder to cut than the aluminum sleeves. Being inherently lazy, I decided that cutting one was easier than cutting two so I cut one of them on each arm equivalent to the sum of the two pieces I took of the sleeve. I hope that makes sense. IOW, if I took 3/16 off each end of the aluminum sleeve, I took 3/8 off of one of the bolts. That still leaves a ton of thread inside the sleeve, and it also avoids the need to have to try to cut the one bolt that's welded onto the ball joint plate on the one arm.

- As far as chasing those 5/8 holes, I had the same experience as you except I was using a cordless drill so it didn't spin the whole center section around but did spin the drill around a good ways and tweaked my wrist. What I found is that if I spin up the drill bit to max RPM first and then start drilling with very light pressure I could keep the bit speed up (and with some cutting oil on the bit) I could keep it from grabbing.

- in case you haven't found it yet, here's the Howe Racing ball joint: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRE-22320S

-John

[MSumners]

It was remarkably easy to torque to 250ft-lbs on the hub nuts using this massive wrench. It’s a free rental from Autozone, I just paid the deposit and it’s full refund upon return. Would highly recommend if anyone is looking for one.
105515

[MSumners]

I'm a little late to the party, but here are a couple of thoughts on a few of your items:

- The threaded rods/bolts inside the adjuster sleeves are MUCH harder to cut than the aluminum sleeves. Being inherently lazy, I decided that cutting one was easier than cutting two so I cut one of them on each arm equivalent to the sum of the two pieces I took of the sleeve. I hope that makes sense. IOW, if I took 3/16 off each end of the aluminum sleeve, I took 3/8 off of one of the bolts. That still leaves a ton of thread inside the sleeve, and it also avoids the need to have to try to cut the one bolt that's welded onto the ball joint plate on the one arm.

- As far as chasing those 5/8 holes, I had the same experience as you except I was using a cordless drill so it didn't spin the whole center section around but did spin the drill around a good ways and tweaked my wrist. What I found is that if I spin up the drill bit to max RPM first and then start drilling with very light pressure I could keep the bit speed up (and with some cutting oil on the bit) I could keep it from grabbing.

- in case you haven't found it yet, here's the Howe Racing ball joint: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRE-22320S

-John

Thanks for the info!

[MSumners]

Center section front mount 5/8 drilling update: The reamer drill bit was no better and again currently feeling like my arm was nearly torn in half after round three still on the first hole. I am going to buy a 3/8 shank 5/8 bit and use the cordless as some others have recommended.

[edwardb]

Center section front mount 5/8 drilling update: The reamer drill bit was no better and again currently feeling like my arm was nearly torn in half after round three still on the first hole. I am going to buy a 3/8 shank 5/8 bit and use the cordless as some others have recommended.

Use the cordless drill and turn the torque way down. Most cordless drills have a selector for that. That way when it grabs (and it will grab) it slips the ratchet in the drill instead of nearly breaking your arm or wrist. It will take a few stalls and bites, but goes through pretty easily after a few tries. And yes I learned this the hard way too.

[MSumners]

Use the cordless drill and turn the torque way down. Most cordless drills have a selector for that. That when it grabs (and it will grab) it slips the ratchet in the drill instead of nearly breaking your arm or wrist. It will take a few stalls and bites, but goes through pretty easily after a few tries. And yes I learned this the hard way too.

Perfect! Thanks again. I am optimistic about round 4.

[JohnK]

It was remarkably easy to torque to 250ft-lbs on the hub nuts using this massive wrench. It’s a free rental from Autozone, I just paid the deposit and it’s full refund upon return. Would highly recommend if anyone is looking for one.


Wow! That's a beast of a torque wrench. Thanks for the tip. I have a 1/2" drive torque wrench that will max out at 250 ft-lbs but it's half the length of this one so it would be a fight to get to that torque. I'll have to track one of these things down when I get to that step here shortly.

[MSumners]

Stupid question for the Day # 1.

It’s ok to take an angle grinder and smooth some of these weld spots down so panels fit flush? As below.
105928

[Straversi]

Stupid question for the Day # 1.

It’s ok to take an angle grinder and smooth some of these weld spots down so panels fit flush? As below.
105928

Yes, you can. Most of the time, I found it easier to notch the panel with snips or a Dremel. No paint to fix that way.

-Steve

[MSumners]

Nice, finally worked through the full size picture posting.

Just working on panels over the last week. Everything south of the firewall has been fitted, marked, drilled, de-burred, re-attached, re-drilled. It’s hard to fight the urge to put clecos everywhere. Once everything is done in the next week I’ll send them off for powder coat.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105950&d=1555626095

[MSumners]

Did anyone have to trim the inner sleeve of the center section mount bushings down. The rear mounts were the perfect length but the inner sleeves of the front mounts hang out about 2mm on the other side

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106029&d=1555683929

[JohnK]

I just installed my center section a few weeks ago. I torqued the rear mounting bolts first, and that pulled the center section back tight to the frame. In that position, the two front mounts are pulled backwards slightly away from the frame. The attached photo isn't great, but if you look closely at the rear part of the front PS mount, you'll see that the bushing is pulled away from the frame mount by ~2mm. The DS is the same way. I think your inner sleeves should work fine the way they are.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106031&d=1555685220

[cv2065]

Did anyone have to trim the inner sleeve of the center section mount bushings down. The rear mounts were the perfect length but the inner sleeves of the front mounts hang out about 2mm on the other side

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106029&d=1555683929

My inner sleeves were identical. I called FFR about the small gap when tightening, and they said that's how it was designed and to proceed.

[MSumners]

My inner sleeves were identical. I called FFR about the small gap when tightening, and they said that's how it was designed and to proceed.

Thank you!
I appreciate the response from you both! Until I read this I was planning on hammering them out and trimming. Thanks for the insight.

[MSumners]

Question for the forum:
Fitting the cockpit back wall aluminum.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106063&d=1555791754o
To line up the rear square bar with the cutouts for the seatbelts, I ended up with this uneven edge where it meets the corner panel.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106062&d=1555791727

The other side is similar but a hair less.
Should I re-fit this or will it end up ok?

[MSumners]

First experience with the POR15 line of paint.. this stuff means business. My son wanted to ditch the sidewalk chalk and got in on the action for a bit.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106079&d=1555814266

Still contemplating what to do about the aluminum mismatch as above, in the meantime installed the front swaybar. Only had to file out the bolt-holes on the swaybar itself and was a smooth install. Waiting on some parts to have enough to install the steering or IRS, but plenty to keep me busy in the meantime.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106075&d=1555814026

[edwardb]

Question for the forum:
Fitting the cockpit back wall aluminum.
To line up the rear square bar with the cutouts for the seatbelts, I ended up with this uneven edge where it meets the corner panel.
The other side is similar but a hair less.
Should I re-fit this or will it end up ok?

The 3/4-inch bar cutting through the opening is intentional. That's to prevent the shoulder strap from chafing against the aluminum since it wraps over from the below in the trunk. As for the mis-match on the corners, I don't remember that on the ones I've done. Attached a picture of my #8674 build which shows them lining up pretty well. If you're sure the rear wall is down as far as it will go, e.g. to the cockpit floor, not much you're going to do there. You could raise the corner pieces slightly if it's not too late. But could be trimmed if needed and bulb seal goes across there anyway, which can absorb some difference.

https://oi867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_3911_zpsy5ow4j3j.jpg (https://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_3911_zpsy5ow4j3j.jpg.html)

[MSumners]

Few extra rivet holes no one will see and straightened the whole section out.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106122&d=1555897934

[MSumners]

Ordered aftermarket Moog power steering rack ends, are they supposed to be different?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106496&d=1556547205

[cv2065]

Ordered aftermarket Moog power steering rack ends, are they supposed to be different?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106496&d=1556547205

Mine were the same. Looks like you have two different ones. I ordered the Moog es2150rl tie rod ends.

[MSumners]

Mine were the same. Looks like you have two different ones. I ordered the Moog es2150rl tie rod ends.

Gotcha, that’s what I figured just making sure. That’s the order number I used as well. I’ll just send these back and try a different supplier.
Thanks!
Mike

[MSumners]

Header Question: Anyone using a Dart 347 EFI use shorty or long headers? And for any reason in particular?

[MSumners]

Does anyone rivet this whole section of the driver footbox together prior to powder coat or should they all be done separately
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106578&d=1556672998

[MSumners]

May not look like much but I think it took two hours to get this one panel aligned as well as I could using the improvised wooden-block sheet metal brake.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106580&d=1556678570


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106581&d=1556678586

[Boydster]

Does anyone rivet this whole section of the driver footbox together prior to powder coat or should they all be done separately
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106578&d=1556672998

With the drivers footbox outer panel and it's kick-out, I'd assemble, then powdercoat. No need to do the kick-out pieces seperately. However, be very careful with the silicone. Any silicone at all that squeezes out will prevent powdercoat from sticking.

I saved the powdercoat for panels that would be seen and got the most abuse. I simply painted this panel on my car.

[cv2065]

Does anyone rivet this whole section of the driver footbox together prior to powder coat or should they all be done separately
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106578&d=1556672998

I drilled and then sent them to powdercoat separately, then assembled when I got them back. I'm sure either way will get the same result.

[MSumners]

I drilled and then sent them to powdercoat separately, then assembled when I got them back. I'm sure either way will get the same result.

Thanks for the info gentlemen, I hadn’t thought of the silicone yet. I think I’ll just take exploded view pics on disassembly and coat them separately.

[MSumners]

Mine were the same. Looks like you have two different ones. I ordered the Moog es2150rl tie rod ends.


Couldn’t return the tie rod ends as I bought them on EBay and can’t get any response from the seller.
Ordered some from local auto parts store but they wanted 62$ each. Would love to support them but 2 delivered next day on amazon for 50$.

[JohnK]

You'll want to check the service temperature of whatever adhesive you use, and then find out what temperature your powder coater bakes at. The PC shop I use bakes the zinc primer at 400 F and the top coat at 500 F. I'm not sure all adhesives can withstand that temperature.

[MSumners]

You'll want to check the service temperature of whatever adhesive you use, and then find out what temperature your powder coater bakes at. The PC shop I use bakes the zinc primer at 400 F and the top coat at 500 F. I'm not sure all adhesives can withstand that temperature.

Thanks for the heads up!
Wouldn’t have thought of that. I’ll just plan to have them PC prior to assembly

[MSumners]

I’m not close to finalizing placement of panels yet but drilling this area got me thinking. Which way do you face the head of the rivet for this intersection where the clecos are?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106640&d=1556843848

[Higgybulin]

I think you have to go opposite of the Celco's, from inside the footbox to inside the engine bay. When you put the motor in, you wont be able to see a thing.
Higgy

[edwardb]

I personally try to install rivets so that whatever is exposed, wherever it is, the head is showing versus the crushed side. In this case, the inside of the footbox will be covered with insulation (you're doing that, right?) and carpet, and that will cover the "ugly" side of the rivet. As long as your rivets aren't overly long and crush down reasonably, I'd install them with the heads showing into the engine compartment. BTW, while nothing wrong with it, you're installing the rivets really close. Must like to squeeze those things, huh? :rolleyes:

[MSumners]

I personally try to install rivets so that whatever is exposed, wherever it is, the head is showing versus the crushed side. In this case, the inside of the footbox will be covered with insulation (you're doing that, right?) and carpet, and that will cover the "ugly" side of the rivet. As long as your rivets aren't overly long and crush down reasonably, I'd install them with the heads showing into the engine compartment. BTW, while nothing wrong with it, you're installing the rivets really close. Must like to squeeze those things, huh? :rolleyes:

Thanks for the info and recommendations I appreciate it!
Agreed, I only did a close rivet spacing in this area as I was having some trouble keeping it well approximated. Probably overkill and didn’t really do that anywhere else. Yes I’m planning on insulation and believe I’ll use the lizard skin products so I’ll see how well they are flattening out on other areas before finishing this section.
Thanks again all.

[Boydster]

Def put the heads in the engine compartment. Using the standard rivets, the carpet will easily cover them up. And if someone IS looking at the car for details, like down in this area, you certainly dont want anyone seeing the ugly part of a tight row of pop rivets. ;)

[Mark Eaton]

Header Question: Anyone using a Dart 347 EFI use shorty or long headers? And for any reason in particular?

I am using DART 347 EFI. WE used shorty headers in the build school and put them on backwards. Then you need either a J pipe or CATS which is what I am using.

Looks something like this

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106667&d=1556973935

[MSumners]

I am using DART 347 EFI. WE used shorty headers in the build school and put them on backwards. Then you need either a J pipe or CATS which is what I am using.

Looks something like this

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106667&d=1556973935

Thanks for the info. Talked with Mike Forte pretty sure I will have what I’ll need.
Your build is looking great!

[MSumners]

Got the center section in. I would only echo what others have said that it’s a tight fit. Used 4 hoist points to help position and went inch by inch with no issue. Using the large drift punches for alignment definitely helped.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106781&d=1557084875
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106780&d=1557084842

[MSumners]

Finishing up the last of the panel work prior to powder coat.
I can cover this pedal box hole if I’m doing hydraulic clutch correct? And the other small panel shown?
Otherwise I plan to cover the small hole on the drivers side of the transmission tunnel and pre-drill the trunk access panels and access panel to the driver footbox.
Anything else to drill out or cover prior to PC?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106811&d=1557102544

[edwardb]

Yes the hole you're pointing to on the front footbox is for the clutch cable. You can cover it if you want. I use it for the hoses from the brake and clutch reservoir though. The hole in the small firewall extension can also be covered. Unlikely that you'll use it. But having said that, it's basically completely hidden. So if you cover it after the fact it doesn't hurt anything. The small hole in the DS of the transmission tunnel can also be filled. I've never used it. I believe it's left over from the donor harness days, but I'm not positive.

[MSumners]

How hard to move should the IRS UCA be? Just after install and grease it still takes more than a nudge to get it to move at all. Tried opening up the mounts as much as possible with the threaded bar but the posterior mount will only adjust so far.
Thanks for any advice.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106833&d=1557179339

[MSumners]

The drivers side IRS UCA had a defect in the threads and the rod end assembly would only thread to this point where it was a hard stop. Tried a wire wheel but no-go. Called FF and they are sending one out. As usual great quick service.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106832&d=1557179324

[MSumners]

All panels fitted, marked, drilled, re-fitted often multiple times, de-burred and off to powder coat.
How many drill bits did everyone else go through for this whole process?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106932&d=1557361598

[MSumners]

Confirmed with F5 that there should be some drag on the UCA and require a hand to move it.

[MSumners]

All metal and some random hardware back from powder coating. Turn-around time was only a day so came in ahead of schedule and under budget which hasn’t been the theme to this point.
Went with plain Ford black for panels that will mostly be covered and Carbon metallic for the visible engine bay panels.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107008&d=1557530497

[Blue Viking]

I've been debating wether to go satin black or satin clear, but until now landed on satin clear because I don't like the look of all the rivets standing out in aluminum on the black. I see now that black anodized rivets are readily available. Is that what you will be using? Would love to see how that would look like.

[MSumners]

I've been debating wether to go satin black or satin clear, but until now landed on satin clear because I don't like the look of all the rivets standing out in aluminum on the black. I see now that black anodized rivets are readily available. Is that what you will be using? Would love to see how that would look like.
I haven’t checked that out yet actually but may look into it. If I find some I’ll post after they’re placed.

[MSumners]

Now that everything is powder coated. Putting the trunk and cockpit floor in won’t interfere with something down the road will it?

[Blue Viking]

I haven’t checked that out yet actually but may look into it. If I find some I’ll post after they’re placed.

Great, thanks!

[MSumners]

Question for the more experienced crew.
I’m working on the Wilwood IRS brakes. Everything else is installed and torqued( UCA,LCA, Toe, hubs and CV shafts in, etc). Is it normal to have some play in the rotor and hub prior to final torquing of the hub nut? I have the hub nut turned down as far as I can without having some weight on one of the wheels for resistance and 3 lug nuts placed temporarily but snug. Despite this the rotor can rock back and forth about 2-3mm and moves with the hub and CV. If this is normal, what use is it being very exact in the rotor to caliper spacing at this point. I feel like I’m missing something here.
Thanks for any advice.

[JohnK]

Others more experienced than me will chime in, but my experience was that yes, you will feel some play in the rotor until the spindle nut is tightened down. However, since the rotor, caliper bracket and caliper are bolted to the hub, the relationship between rotor and caliper is fixed so your caliper to rotor spacing is not affected by this play. By the way, if you have the emergency brake calipers mounted, you can put a clamp on the two arms that the e-brake cable pulls on to tighten down the e-brake caliper and torque the spindle nuts even before mounting your wheels.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Putting the trunk and cockpit floor in won’t interfere with something down the road will it?

It won't actually interfere but will make running brake and fuel lines as well as wiring significantly more difficult because of the limited access. I always fit and drill the panels beforehand but don't permanently install them until the other items are done.

Jeff

[MSumners]

Others more experienced than me will chime in, but my experience was that yes, you will feel some play in the rotor until the spindle nut is tightened down. However, since the rotor, caliper bracket and caliper are bolted to the hub, the relationship between rotor and caliper is fixed so your caliper to rotor spacing is not affected by this play. By the way, if you have the emergency brake calipers mounted, you can put a clamp on the two arms that the e-brake cable pulls on to tighten down the e-brake caliper and torque the spindle nuts even before mounting your wheels.

Thanks I’ll try the Ebrake to tighten it down and recheck the movement.
Thanks!

[MSumners]

It won't actually interfere but will make running brake and fuel lines as well as wiring significantly more difficult because of the limited access. I always fit and drill the panels beforehand but don't permanently install them until the other items are done.

Jeff


Thanks!
I’ll wait to put these in, should be to brake / fuel lines fairly soon

[MSumners]

Thanks I’ll try the Ebrake to tighten it down and recheck the movement.
Thanks!
Tried clamping the E-brake and torquing the hub nut down. That took out the last couple millimeters of play on the rotor.
Thanks!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107152&d=1557791060

[MSumners]

Settled on the black head rivets from McMaster for the visible areas to match the powder coat. Thought I may like the contrast to the bare aluminum rivets but after seeing these placed I am sold.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107179&d=1557870193

[MSumners]

Question for the experienced here.
When placing a Rivnut into the F-panel, despite practicing beforehand, I’ve set it and it was slightly cockeyed. I lightly thread a button head SS 10-32 into it to see if it would set down ok but got stuck and my attempt to bring it back out sheared the head off the screw as below. This reminds me of reviews at work where it’s sjasts a series of mistakes that build to a situation like this, ha.
Before I get further into this I was considering options and wanted to see if someone has gone through this before.
1: is it even possible to drill this out?
2: if not I was considering taking the whole thing out either smallest hole saw possible and using a separate fastener here.
3: if that failed or messed up the F panels I could always take them off and just start over here but that seemed extreme.
Thanks again in advance!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107322&d=1558011257

[Cruzzz]

It looks like there is enough of the screw sticking out to clamp a set of vice grips onto and screw it out. If you can do that then I would drill it out and replace. They are easy to drill out using a bit that just fits inside the rivnut.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I'd use a Dremel with a cut off wheel on the backside and cut the expanded part of the rivnut off flush. Once you get it out you need to promise that you will never again install a stainless steel fastener dry...always use anti-seize (or just don't use stainless steel).

Jeff

[MSumners]

I'd use a Dremel with a cut off wheel on the backside and cut the expanded part of the rivnut off flush. Once you get it out you need to promise that you will never again install a stainless steel fastener dry...always use anti-seize (or just don't use stainless steel).

Jeff

I’ll try the dremel cut-off when I get a chance.
Deal on the SS anti-seize!

[Fixit]

107381
x2 on Anti-Seize, but the stuff is diabolical - it gets everywhere.
On machine screws, just a TINY dab on the 1st few threads will do. It'll spread out as it's threaded in and keep the threads from galling.

[MSumners]

Thanks for the recommendations, the twirling rivet nut came out without a hassle after taking the dremel cutoff to the backside and didn’t even nick the F panel at all.

Starting on the brake lines now and I’ve been reading about routing. Would it make more sense to have a 180 degree adapter in this spot below. It just seems like it would avoid the odd extra bend I would have to make because the line to go across the X brace would go straight off the front. But of course, maybe there’s something I’m missing.
Thanks again.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107925&d=1558925014

[MSumners]

Started working on the E-brake as well and decided to do the pulley modification that Edwardb described to avoid running the cables under the frame. I placed the two pulleys as shown and secured with a shoulder bolt and they are very solid. I also obtained the Lokar clevis with the set screws for the attachment point. I’m not sure about other experiences but I wasn’t able to make this work without interference from the E brake handle frame mount, even with a carriage or elevator bolt placed from the underside. I decided to try something slightly different. I cutoff the clevis so I could just use the threads and the set screws. I then attached a 5/16- 24 female rod end for the assembly as shown. To offset the cable pull and avoid the interference I drilled out the 2 holes on the Ebrake to 5/16 and placed a 2” 5/16 shoulder screw as well with 5/16 spacers taking up the space where the prior rod end was held. I used spacers for the offset and so far it looks like this.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107930&d=1558925874

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107931&d=1558926103

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107932&d=1558926176

I’ll post a picture of the offset and final position tomorrow when it’s actually in and working to see if it really avoids the interference. Also, I ‘believe’ there will be enough room to avoid interference from the transmission but if not then back to the drawing board or the old design.
Any thoughts are welcome.

[edwardb]

Starting on the brake lines now and I’ve been reading about routing. Would it make more sense to have a 180 degree adapter in this spot below. It just seems like it would avoid the odd extra bend I would have to make because the line to go across the X brace would go straight off the front. But of course, maybe there’s something I’m missing.

A 180 degree adapter would be a bit easier I guess. But I've never seen one in that configuration for 3/8-24 inverted flare adapters. It's really no big deal to bend lines for that fitting. You have to do a 90 degree turn on the other side to go straight into the flex line adapter. So in effect, both sides are similar.


Started working on the E-brake as well and decided to do the pulley modification that Edwardb described to avoid running the cables under the frame. I placed the two pulleys as shown and secured with a shoulder bolt and they are very solid. I also obtained the Lokar clevis with the set screws for the attachment point. I’m not sure about other experiences but I wasn’t able to make this work without interference from the E brake handle frame mount, even with a carriage or elevator bolt placed from the underside. I decided to try something slightly different. I cutoff the clevis so I could just use the threads and the set screws. I then attached a 5/16- 24 female rod end for the assembly as shown. To offset the cable pull and avoid the interference I drilled out the 2 holes on the Ebrake to 5/16 and placed a 2” 5/16 shoulder screw as well with 5/16 spacers taking up the space where the prior rod end was held. I used spacers for the offset and so far it looks like this.

Not quite sure what you're doing there until you show the final assembly. You're right though. With only the Lokar clevis as I and others have installed it, does rub on the carriage bolt under the mount. In actual use has been a non-issue. I'm on the third season and 4,200+ miles with the mod. Haven't touched it and still works great. Use the e-brake all the time. Will be interested to see what you come up with.

One comment on your pulley installation. That bolt isn't quite long enough. It's not all the way through the lock nut and doesn't even appear to be engaging the nylon insert. Good practice for all nuts, locking or not, is there should be threads coming through. Normal recommendation is two threads exposed.

[MSumners]

Thanks for the info on the adapter and agreed I searched quite a bit and couldn’t find one that would work.
The nylock is only hand tight in the picture, it was before tightening down but is fully engaged now.
I’ll post tomorrow with the final install and see if anyone thinks there will be issues.
Thanks again!

[MSumners]

Back to the E-brake work.
My first iteration as shown below did not work out as planned. My goal was to offset the clevis away from the frame mount to avoid interference. I found I had to set it so far away to avoid the interference that the length of the arm created put too much torsion on the rest of the assembly. See below.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108102&d=1559266285

So I scrapped that idea. After staring at the whole thing for a few minutes I decided just to elongate the lower arm of the assembly as below and keep everything lined up.
I cut a length of steel from an angle I had as below and marked and drilled to attach with the lower arm. After cleaning it up, taking the edges off with an angle grinder and Emory cloth and a couple coats of paint it was ready. I had to buy slightly longer 5/16 and 3/8 shoulder screws for the attachment to the Ebrake arms. I then used the modified Lokar clevis with the 5/16 rod end and assembled it together. Success! Of course, as others have said, maybe this wasn’t even an issue to begin with, but I’m happy with it nonetheless. Pulls straight and solid and no interference and it’s not even close to being below the frame.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108095&d=1559265051

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108096&d=1559265079

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108097&d=1559265108

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108098&d=1559265124

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108100&d=1559265173

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108099&d=1559265152
I’m sure builders have done this before I just don’t recall seeing it. Given the longer attachment arm the only major difference I see would be having a shorter pull on the handle to full brake engagement. I get about 3 ‘clicks’ to full hard stop engagement. I may look at how much I could shorten the arm and still retain frame clearance when I pull it out again and also rotate the carriage bolt to point the other direction. I believe this would give a bit more throw on the handle before full engagement.
Any thoughts are welcome or downsides I haven’t thought of.

[MSumners]

Ended up shortening the arm slightly and exchanging the carriage bolt for a hex button head. Still have clearance and it gets a bit more throw on the E-brake handle. I’ll post final pics when it’s back in place.

[MSumners]

I made a bracket for the reservoirs shown. I remember reading about a maximum distance the front edge of the bracket can be from the front of the pedal box, but can’t find it now. I think it was 12” ? And I don’t really recall why. Interference from something else?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108189&d=1559420057

[edwardb]

I made a bracket for the reservoirs shown. I remember reading about a maximum distance the front edge of the bracket can be from the front of the pedal box, but can’t find it now. I think it was 12” ? And I don’t really recall why. Interference from something else?

12-inches is cutting it a little close. I normally recommend no more than 11-inches from the front of the footbox. The reason is to stay clear of the hood gas struts that drop down into that area when the hood closes.

[MSumners]

Thanks for the info. It’s about 11” as it stands in the picture so I’ll probably plant it in that spot.

[MSumners]

Decided to take a few days and go back over everything I’ve done to this point, checking torque settings on bolts and just making sure I didn’t miss anything. Fairly basic but good peace of mind.
Decided I would work through the fuel and brake lines. I’m essentially following work and recommendations from others that have detailed their routing and suggestions. Something I decided to do from the beginning was stainless lines including the 3/8 fuel supply and return. Like others I sourced them from Inline Tube on the other side of the state from me in Michigan. As EdwardB stated this allows for uncoiled sections which are nice to work with and no extra unions.
Because I’m doing stainless I decided to pick up the heavy duty flaring tool many have used ( it is sold under multiple vendors including Eastwood and TGR) and also size specific tubing benders to make this easier.
I initially had some trouble getting consistent flares made, and attribute this to not following recommendations others have made. I probably made about 40 practice flares in every shape imaginable before I figured out my simple mistake. I wasn’t tightening the die down hard enough and the tubing was moving, nearly imperceptible, but moving nonetheless. This caused the slight ridge you notice on the glare in the left side of the picture, compared to what I believe is a good flare on the right.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108992&d=1560776183

Using air tool oil on the end seemed to help too. Once I started doing this, I practiced on some 3/8 SS and every one was perfect.

I started marking the edge of the tubing in the die, otherwise I really couldn’t tell if it had moved at all.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108991&d=1560776163

So far I’ve been able to get the 3/8 fuel lines bent and in place, actually very happy with how it turned out and every surface is flush with the frame to mount it secure. I’m working on the brake lines now but waiting on some fittings to finalize sections.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109033&d=1560824420

[MSumners]

Can’t wait to see this beast. Crated and ready to ship.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109312&d=1561090304

[MSumners]

Question for the forum

I’m taking my time finishing the brake and fuel line routing and using SS for the hard lines. At the time I finished up the front section I used aluminum sleeves and tube nuts for connections to the -3 aluminum adapters shown. I really didn’t even realize that this might be an issue because it seemed to be sold as brake line compatible equipment.
I am planning on replacing with steel. After reading some other forum thoughts on this I figured I would ask.
I should replace these aluminum fittings/adaptors with steel, correct?
Is this a theoretical issue or actually known to cause failure?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109400&d=1561260080

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109401&d=1561260139

[MSumners]

Being totally new to bending and fitting brake lines, I’ve found this useful for assessing bending angles when completing the ends going to the fittings. I’ve been taking short pieces of scrap tubing and using as angle guides to mark the incoming length and measure the angle to bend. I think I would’ve saved about 10 feet of SS tubing if I would have done this from the start.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109407&d=1561261361

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109409&d=1561261511

[MSumners]

Does it matter which side of the flange the wheel-well fill panels attach later in the build?

Debating which orientation to put some brake line clamps on.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109418&d=1561303489

[Fixit]

The "elephant ears" attach to the wheel-side of the "F" panel, or from the front, not behind.

Nice work on the lines!... tight radii and everything tucked in.

[MSumners]

The "elephant ears" attach to the wheel-side of the "F" panel, or from the front, not behind.

Nice work on the lines!... tight radii and everything tucked in.

Thanks!
I think round 4 for the brake lines was finally the keeper. Now I just have to figure out if I need to re-do the front run to switch out the aluminum fittings.

[cv2065]

Very professional looking line routing and bending. Nice work!

[MSumners]

Very professional looking line routing and bending. Nice work!

Thanks!
Definitely took some practice and a few extra lengths of line. I’ll probably be getting a Christmas card from in-line tube this year.

[MSumners]

Finishing up fuel hard lines with the 3/8 SS. I think I checked angles about 3 times for every bend and those tubes must have been in and out about 15 times. I did not want to have to re-order these lengths. Now just have to tie in the fuel filter and the tank can go up.
Still have to go back and equalize the thread length on the IRS section shown. Didn’t think of that until I was re-reading EdwardB’s thread.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109605&d=1561511124

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109606&d=1561511150

[JohnK]

Very nicely done! I'm about to tackle all the brake and fuel lines myself. I can only hope mine turn out anywhere near that nice.

[MSumners]

Pulled the tank out to prep.
Is this edge supposed to be bent?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109641&d=1561601101

[MSumners]

Very nicely done! I'm about to tackle all the brake and fuel lines myself. I can only hope mine turn out anywhere near that nice.

Thanks for the compliment, I honestly spent a good deal of time on the lines. I had never done this before and wanted to get it right. First I made templates in 1/4 copper tubing I picked up at HD. Then made a second round in the included steel line, then copied into the SS. Even messed up the first round of SS on 3 of the lengths and re made them. Luckily the 3/8 fuel lines turned out good the first round.

[MSumners]

I contacted Fragola Performance Systems and asked about my use of their aluminum fittings on the front brake runs with the SS 3/16 hard lines. They said there is no issue and many people run them this way. They said they are tested to over 3000psi in this setting, so for now the front system stays put.

[MSumners]

Side by side of kit (left) vs Breeze big bore fuel tank vent valve.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109731&d=1561780881

[MSumners]

On the last run of the brakes to the rear. Decided to run down the inside foot box as many others have done. I found it was easy to take the Wilwood pedal box out and tilt the front pedal box panel forward. Then was able to notch out the hole in the floor as shown. By doing this I could pre-bend the entire line and rotate it into place fairly easily.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109865&d=1561942840

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109866&d=1561942970

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109867&d=1561943001

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109870&d=1561943119

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109869&d=1561943080

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109871&d=1561943148

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109872&d=1561943179

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109868&d=1561943041

[MSumners]

When using the rear sway bar, is anyone replacing the 110mm M16 bolt that goes through the UCA and mounting plate with a 120mm for some extra thread length. If so , where did you find one? I can’t even find one on McMaster. It’s been on my list of things to check back on now for a few weeks.

[MSumners]

Brake lines finished. Just a short checklist and I’ll be filling the system/bleeding them.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110161&d=1562376118

[D02G]

Pulled the tank out to prep.
Is this edge supposed to be bent?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109641&d=1561601101

Mine was receive the same way. Haven’t installed it yet....

[MSumners]

When using the rear sway bar, is anyone replacing the 110mm M16 bolt that goes through the UCA and mounting plate with a 120mm for some extra thread length. If so , where did you find one? I can’t even find one on McMaster. It’s been on my list of things to check back on now for a few weeks.

Found
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110206&d=1562420155

[MSumners]

Finished up the front hard fuel lines by making a mount out of .625” aluminum block. This way it won’t be hanging in space. I put a couple layers of anti-slip foam between the block and the footbox so it has some degree of room for vibration. The aluminum I ordered from Online metals, who will cut to almost any dimension you need. All I really did was drill out for mounting and tap the holes for the 3/8 tubing clamps. Of course, literally every piece of SS I use gets anti-seize now, in accordance with prior recommendations.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110217&d=1562431653

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110214&d=1562431567

[MSumners]

Has anyone run three reservoir tubing lengths (I'm using the CNC triple) through this hole and found a grommet that works well. Obviously a simple grommet would work but just wondering about achieving a good seal given the possibility of running three lines through it. Or maybe not even a big concern and just K.I.S.S.
Thanks for any advice! As always, this build would only be possible with all of your help.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110236&d=1562450815

[Boydster]

I made a single round plate with 3 grommeted holes in it. The holes were pretty close, just enough space for the grommets, but it works, seals off the footbox and looks good. I spent some time looking for some kind of rubber diaphragm that would go in the hole like a single grommet, then I could cut access thru it for the hoses, but never found anything that I liked.

[MSumners]

I made a single round plate with 3 grommeted holes in it. The holes were pretty close, just enough space for the grommets, but it works, seals off the footbox and looks good. I spent some time looking for some kind of rubber diaphragm that would go in the hole like a single grommet, then I could cut access thru it for the hoses, but never found anything that I liked.

Thanks for the info! Again fairly simple but good to know what others have come up with. I did find a correct size ( I believe) solid grommet and will see if I can fit it and cut the appropriate holes. If not I will probably follow suit and make a panel as well.

[MSumners]

Worked a bit on fitting the fuel tank. Didn’t have any difficulty getting it into place but I am seeing interference from the mounting posts on the passenger side. After searching the forum it looks like others have at least intermittently had similar experience. I think the easiest fix will be to very slightly bend the passenger side forward mount bar away from the tank.
Anyone else have this recently? The last thread that came up on searching was a few years ago.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110394&d=1562634892

[edwardb]

I also made a plate to route the three reservoir lines through that hole in the footbox. I played around with grommets, but wasn't able to get them lined up and fitted the way I liked. I ended up shrinking two short pieces of double wall shrink sleeve over each line where they went through the plate. Once installed, filled from both sides with Permatex Ultra Black RTV. Picture below is before the sleeving and RTV, and also the Coupe build. But wouldn't be any different for the Roadster.

For the fuel tank, I've had that happen too. That thin wall tubing is easy to bend. Couple of taps with a dead blow hammer with the tank out of the way and you'll be fine.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82181&d=1520476455

[bluse]

Like others I went with 3 seperate grommets.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110305&d=1562516669

[MSumners]

I also made a plate to route the three reservoir lines through that hole in the footbox. I played around with grommets, but wasn't able to get them lined up and fitted the way I liked. I ended up shrinking two short pieces of double wall shrink sleeve over each line where they went through the plate. Once installed, filled from both sides with Permatex Ultra Black RTV. Picture below is before the sleeving and RTV, and also the Coupe build. But wouldn't be any different for the Roadster.

For the fuel tank, I've had that happen too. That thin wall tubing is easy to bend. Couple of taps with a dead blow hammer with the tank out of the way and you'll be fine.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82181&d=1520476455

Thanks again, I’m confident I’ll be heading that way with the separate cover panel.

Before raising the fuel tank back up I planned to ensure the IRS differential was adequately filled. After searching and reading some threads it sounds as if the take-home message is the diff is usually filled from the factory, but there seems to be differing experiences with this and checking the level for peace of mind would be the way to go.
Is there a way to just remove the top plug and check the level without draining the whole thing?

[edwardb]

Before raising the fuel tank back up I planned to ensure the IRS differential was adequately filled. After searching and reading some threads it sounds as if the take-home message is the diff is usually filled from the factory, but there seems to be differing experiences with this and checking the level for peace of mind would be the way to go. Is there a way to just remove the top plug and check the level without draining the whole thing?

When you fill the empty diff with specified amount, in my experience, it goes right to the level of the top plug and even starts coming out a bit. So you could do the same with a partial fill. Check to make sure the fluid is at the top plug. If not, put in enough to where it starts coming out.

[Mark Eaton]

Thanks again, I’m confident I’ll be heading that way with the separate cover panel.

Before raising the fuel tank back up I planned to ensure the IRS differential was adequately filled. After searching and reading some threads it sounds as if the take-home message is the diff is usually filled from the factory, but there seems to be differing experiences with this and checking the level for peace of mind would be the way to go.
Is there a way to just remove the top plug and check the level without draining the whole thing?


Use a pipet , just like back in highschool chemistry, to check the differential fluid level.

Mark

[MSumners]

Use a pipet , just like back in highschool chemistry, to check the differential fluid level.

Mark

Thanks if I can get the plug out I think I’ll try this and check the level.

Is there a specific tool to get this plug out? Searched and found some have had success using a simple 3/8 drive but when I try to fit this it’s clearly too loose. If I’m not mistaken that’s red threadlocker as well? I think I’m going to call FF and check their confidence of whether this comes ready to roll.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110483&d=1562807032

[edwardb]

Thanks if I can get the plug out I think I’ll try this and check the level.

Is there a specific tool to get this plug out? Searched and found some have had success using a simple 3/8 drive but when I try to fit this it’s clearly too loose. If I’m not mistaken that’s red threadlocker as well? I think I’m going to call FF and check their confidence of whether this comes ready to roll.

That's sealant, not red Loctite. The plug isn't hard to get out. I've successfully used a 3/8-inch drive on mine for both IRS builds. Similar plugs are used by Tremec and a 3/8-inch drive works OK there too. Maybe you're using a ratchet with a push button release? You may need to push the button when inserting into the plug so the locking ball retracts and it goes in far enough. It's not a super precision fit, but works fine.

[MSumners]

That's sealant, not red Loctite. The plug isn't hard to get out. I've successfully used a 3/8-inch drive on mine for both IRS builds. Similar plugs are used by Tremec and a 3/8-inch drive works OK there too. Maybe you're using a ratchet with a push button release? You may need to push the button when inserting into the plug so the locking ball retracts and it goes in far enough. It's not a super precision fit, but works fine.

Perfect, thanks for the re-direction. That makes sense. I’ll see if I can get a drive in and loosen it out. Just didn’t want to start torquing on something I wasn’t sure of.

[MSumners]

Again probably not needed but couldn’t stop seeing the thread length on IRS LCA and decided to switch the bolts out for m16 120mm.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110482&d=1562806984

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110555&d=1562931674

[MSumners]

Engine package arrived from Forte!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110589&d=1563037989

[BadAsp427]

I think I’m going to call FF and check their confidence of whether this comes ready to roll.


Not sure if you have completed this task yet, but wanted to chime in. There is no way anyone at FF will know if there is fluid in your diff. And even more, whether it has the appropriate amount of friction modifier in it as well. Mine came with only the friction modifier in it so I drained it and started fresh all the way around just to be sure I knew what was going on in there. I would say that if you pull the plug (use a 3/8 ratchet) and it is full to the bottom of the hole then good to go. If not I'd pull the bottom plug and drain whatever is in there out and put your own fluid in it for peace of mind that it is done and done correctly. Just my $.02 worth.

[MSumners]

Not sure if you have completed this task yet, but wanted to chime in. There is no way anyone at FF will know if there is fluid in your diff. And even more, whether it has the appropriate amount of friction modifier in it as well. Mine came with only the friction modifier in it so I drained it and started fresh all the way around just to be sure I knew what was going on in there. I would say that if you pull the plug (use a 3/8 ratchet) and it is full to the bottom of the hole then good to go. If not I'd pull the bottom plug and drain whatever is in there out and put your own fluid in it for peace of mind that it is done and done correctly. Just my $.02 worth.

Thanks for the recommendation!
This is actually exactly what I plan to do. It sounds like it’s supposed to be full but anecdotally people have had differing experiences. When I talked to Dave Smith at the build course one of his top 3 recommendations was to make sure the differential is checked and full. He said even they incorrectly made the assumption once that one was filled and turned out obviously poorly.
Thanks again, I’ll let you know what I find.

[MSumners]

Called the Ford Performance tech line to check on the differential fluid level recommendation. I removed the fill plug last night and checked it. Ford tech said the fill point level is 9mm below the plug. This is actually exactly what I measured so I am putting the plug back and leaving it alone.

[MSumners]

Remember the game ‘Operation’ with the bones and the tweezers and the buzzer etc?
I currently have the nightly hot rod equivalent of this happening involving a gas tank, dislodged fuel pump sock, wrench and drift punch.
With the tank in the car, does the long axis of the sock end up oriented forward-rear or left-right?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110829&d=1563423303

[edwardb]

Remember the game ‘Operation’ with the bones and the tweezers and the buzzer etc?
I currently have the nightly hot rod equivalent of this happening involving a gas tank, dislodged fuel pump sock, wrench and drift punch.
With the tank in the car, does the long axis of the sock end up oriented forward-rear or left-right?

Side-to-side. That's how I've put them in. Takes a little finesse to bend the sock through the hole, and then rotate the assembly to where it drops into the sump. This picture from my #8674 build just before installing into the tank. Later switched to a Pro-M full 3/8-inch pump hangar, but that's a separate discussion.

https://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009262015/IMG_3409_zpsmpwgjzcg.jpg (https://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009262015/IMG_3409_zpsmpwgjzcg.jpg.html)

[MSumners]

Side-to-side. That's how I've put them in. Takes a little finesse to bend the sock through the hole, and then rotate the assembly to where it drops into the sump. This picture from my #8674 build just before installing into the tank. Later switched to a Pro-M full 3/8-inch pump hangar, but that's a separate discussion.

https://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009262015/IMG_3409_zpsmpwgjzcg.jpg (https://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009262015/IMG_3409_zpsmpwgjzcg.jpg.html)

Thanks! That’s clear.
I did look at the ProM as I have 3/8 feed and return lines run. Any reason to just do the ProM now in the build that I’m unaware of? Obviously would rather do it now rather than later. I however am using a FiTech EFI so may be different.

Thanks again for the guidance.

[egchewy79]

I dry fit mine first w/o the sock. when standing from the rear of my tank, the fuel and return lines pointed to around 2 o'clock. my sump area inside the tank required the sock to be pointed at 12 o'clock, so I was not exactly parallel or perpendicular to the axis of the fuel lines. My sock kept popping off when putting the bracket into the tank and I had to bend the small metal tabs on the sock with a small screwdriver to get them to hold onto the pump. the pump/sock assembly was first inserted with sock facing 3 o'clock, then slowly rotated towards 12 o'clock once you get the assembly a bit deeper, taking care not to knock the sock off again on the walls of the sump area. Not as straightforward as I initially anticipated. remember to put your o ring on first and lube it with a bit of motor oil. It is possible to slip it on over the top if you forget to put in on first though.

[edwardb]

I did look at the ProM as I have 3/8 feed and return lines run. Any reason to just do the ProM now in the build that I’m unaware of? Obviously would rather do it now rather than later. I however am using a FiTech EFI so may be different.

I like the Pro-M hangar a lot and have used it in both Coyote builds. I too used both 3/8 supply and return lines, and decided best to finish the job with full 3/8 lines at the pump. Plus the Pro-M has an extended return line that is supposed to reduce/elimination cavitation. The video on their website is pretty convincing. Obviously it's easier to install now than it would be later when it might be necessary to drop the tank. Also, the Pro-M does require the tank opening to be slightly modified in order to get it in. I didn't find it was necessary to cut quite as much as they showed. But would probably be impossible if the opening were left stock. Something best to do before putting fuel in the tank. But having said that, I can't say whether it would make any difference in your setup or if actually necessary. You'll have to decide.

[MSumners]

Thank you gentlemen!
This will help greatly.

[MSumners]

A bit of progress today while the new baby napped.
Bled the brakes using the CNC pressure bleeding valve top. This made the process very seamless. Bench bled the masters first and followed the directions others have posted. I found my mountain bike shock pump worked perfect for this. Just a continuous cycle of pressure, bleed, close nipple, check reservoir level and repeat ad infinitum until no sign of bubbles. Same process as my MTB only larger.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111232&d=1564106293

After bleeding the pedal remained hard and I only had to tighten down a couple fittings slightly on the back run, otherwise everything was bone dry after holding the pedal down for awhile.

In contrast to my prior claim, I actually ended up draining the differential and refilling it because I wasn’t sure if there was friction modifier in it. I wish I could have left it alone but couldn’t stop thinking about it, so either way it’s done and I know exactly what’s in it now. I must say the level is exactly the same after refilling it to spec.

[MSumners]

Now that I’ve put the wheels on the rear end I planned to torque the hub nuts down.
I am hitting 250ft-lbs before I get to the “98ft-lbs then 45 degrees” specification.
Anyone else run into this.


Leaving it at 250ft-lbs

[BadAsp427]

Now that I’ve put the wheels on the rear end I planned to torque the hub nuts down.
I am hitting 250ft-lbs before I get to the “98ft-lbs then 45 degrees” specification.
Anyone else run into this.


Leaving it at 250ft-lbs

Not understanding the 250 ft lbs.... that is not the torque for those... the torque is 98 + 45* that is what the requirement is. It is not easy, but it will go as long as you have everything locked down so it doesn't turn.

[cv2065]

I was a couple of degrees shy of the 98 + 45*. I would say that I was roughly 42-43 degrees and it just wouldn't go any more. If you look to end of the manual on page 313, it says to torque the rear axle nuts to 175 ft-lbs. So looks like something wasn't updated.

[MSumners]

I was a couple of degrees shy of the 98 + 45*. I would say that I was roughly 42-43 degrees and it just wouldn't go any more. If you look to end of the manual on page 313, it says to torque the rear axle nuts to 175 ft-lbs. So looks like something wasn't updated.

Thanks for spotting that somehow missed it and I will check.

[MSumners]

Not understanding the 250 ft lbs.... that is not the torque for those... the torque is 98 + 45* that is what the requirement is. It is not easy, but it will go as long as you have everything locked down so it doesn't turn.


My statement should have read, ‘leaving at 250 until I get more info’
Agreed it has to be exactly to spec, but something seemed to be off as I was using a 3/4 “ drive and hitting 300lb before going near 45 degrees.

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111446&d=1564342058

Actually page 313 for me is only roll bar instructions.
The only thing I can find is still 98 + 45 degrees.

I apparently just needed to go higher. Incrementally ratcheting up the torque wrench to get to the 98+ 45 ended up being about 315ft-lbs for me.

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111453&d=1564344994

I would say at this point the 5$ kids pool used to pressure test AN lines has been the cheapest and most multi-functional tool of the build.

[MSumners]

After testing the brakes for about the tenth time decided to get it off the dolly and make it a roller.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111465&d=1564354875

[MSumners]

Found it CV , again thanks for the update!
pg. 321 in my book.
Not sure how so much discrepancy between this recommendation and the level I hit to get to the 98+45 degrees recommendation?
I’ll have to check with F5 tech
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111524&d=1564442439

[MSumners]

Found it CV , again thanks for the update!
pg. 321 in my book.
Not sure how so much discrepancy between this recommendation and the level I hit to get to the 98+45 degrees recommendation?
I’ll have to check with F5 tech
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111524&d=1564442439


Checked with F5 tech about the IRS axle nut torque specifications. I was told 220-250ft-lbs. Going to put the socket back on and verify it at 250ft-lbs.

[MSumners]

A workflow question for the forum.
I’m currently at the rolling chassis stage and wondering when the best time to do insulation and sound proofing would be. I’ve decided on the Lizard skin products so I’ll be masking everything off.
Currently the brake lines are bled and re-tested and good to go. Fuel system is plumbed and ready. I’ve loosely put the rear harness in place with plans for some trimming. The engine and trans are mated and ready to go in later.
My question is- prior to riveting the cabin sheet metal in and spraying the lizard skin what else should I finish or test?
Thanks again for all the guidance.

[edwardb]

If you're going to do Lizard Skin, sounds like you're ready to final attach the panels and spray away. I wouldn't put any more in the cockpit than you already have. Just that much more to mask and work around. Since you have the brakes installed that would mean you have the Wilwood pedal box and MC's installed? I can tell you from experience that won't be fun to mask or spray around. You may find you want to brush the area around the top of the DS pedal box.

[MSumners]

If you're going to do Lizard Skin, sounds like you're ready to final attach the panels and spray away. I wouldn't put any more in the cockpit than you already have. Just that much more to mask and work around. Since you have the brakes installed that would mean you have the Wilwood pedal box and MC's installed? I can tell you from experience that won't be fun to mask or spray around. You may find you want to brush the area around the top of the DS pedal box.

Thanks for the info. I do have the pedal box installed already and after looking at the footbox appreciate the difficulty here. My tentative plan is to leave the outside and top of the DS footbox off until final riveting them after go-cart stage in case I need access. I will likely try to mask the edges/overlap of these panels and spray them at the same time as the cockpit and trunk.

I spent an hour or so tonight going back through and checking the centering on the steering rack after reading the recent thread posted. Sure enough I was off about .2” to one side when actually checking the correct measurements. I had already installed the Breeze bushings and now I fully appreciate their function. They made the adjustment so painless! I would definitely recommend. So now it’s centered correctly following others great advice.

[MSumners]

Working on the radiator and the breeze mounts. Should the fan be mounted so the electrical hookup is at the top or bottom?

[edwardb]

Working on the radiator and the breeze mounts. Should the fan be mounted so the electrical hookup is at the top or bottom?

I put the fan electrical connector at the bottom. The fan wires are included with the bundle that crosses over from left to right. I put this bundle along the bottom, and it tucks in nicely on the underside of the body once installed.

[MSumners]

Changing build plans means the budget is completely out the window and things I’m posting for sale.
Taking pictures and posting in the sale section.

GPS FFR gauges
Black rollbar
Fuel level sender
Padded dash with glovebox
Quickjacks
Bare steel pipes
Clutch cable
Accel pedal and cable
More to list I’m forgetting

[MSumners]

Some minor progress lately.
Finished the initial installation of the breeze upper and lower radiator mount and front battery box.
After having the rear harness in and out about 8 times, doing some minor trimming, re-arranging and adding an extra wire for the trunk LED’s I think it’s nearly ready.
On average I would say 50% of ‘build time’ is spent staring at things and planning these days.
Also made the expensive excellent decision to go with Classic Instruments gauges. I couldn’t resist a Michigan company producing such fine pieces.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114463&d=1568693108

[MSumners]

First time putting together a fuel pump, seemed straightforward but thought I would post and see if anyone notices issues before it goes in?
Thanks again
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114565&d=1568917745

[cv2065]

Looking good! Regarding the fuel pump, I tested some of the Raychem DR-25 shrink in fuel for about two weeks before I installed, and it swelled up. Maybe I had a bad batch of it or something, but thought I'd mention it. Is that blue painter's tape on the ends? Paul (Edwardb) turned me on to the Perma Seal butt connectors. They are the real deal when it comes to chemical resistance. That was all I used when hooking the pump up.

[MSumners]

Thanks for the tip on the heat shrink, I’ll have to look into it again. I purchased mine from McMaster and it was the one specifically labeled fuel resistant but I will check into it. The blue is actually just the 10Ga wire, which as well is labeled gasoline resistant so I believe should be fine. Certainly interesting about the Raychem swelling up though. I did soak the Dr-25 for 24 hrs and it was unchanged but not 2 weeks long. I was going to use the permaseal but the two wires were different sizes, 10awg-12awg so I just soldered them together.
Thanks!
Mike


Looking good! Regarding the fuel pump, I tested some of the Raychem DR-25 shrink in fuel for about two weeks before I installed, and it swelled up. Maybe I had a bad batch of it or something, but thought I'd mention it. Is that blue painter's tape on the ends? Paul (Edwardb) turned me on to the Perma Seal butt connectors. They are the real deal when it comes to chemical resistance. That was all I used when hooking the pump up.

[cv2065]

I was going to use the permaseal but the two wires were different sizes, 10awg-12awg so I just soldered them together.

Hey Mike. Just for future reference, they do make Perma Seal connectors with different gauge ends. Might come in handy for other parts of the build.

[MSumners]

Hey Mike. Just for future reference, they do make Perma Seal connectors with different gauge ends. Might come in handy for other parts of the build.

Thanks, I should have known that. In fact Paul even told me that now that I look back at his message, it just didn’t click.
Thanks again.

[MSumners]

Vector W8 at the car show today
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114637&d=1569077013

[MSumners]

I still have some of the dr-25 heat shrink and I love an experiment so I’m going to soak it for the foreseeable future and post how it looks

[MSumners]

Ultimately the fuel pump hanger was just an itch I had to scratch. I switched out for the Pro-M to keep full 3/8 send and return lines. Probably not needed but now I can stop thinking about it. I just took the pump off of the Walbro and transferred it over. Created new lines, tested in the pool to 125psi and re-installed. Pending the results of the heat shrink longer term gas bath it should be final installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114722&d=1569200963

[MSumners]

72 hrs heat shrink gas soak and all is well.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114770&d=1569279924

[MSumners]

Because of this build I now get personal letters from my local Ace hardware thanking me for my business. I’m sure this is fairly widely experienced.

[MSumners]

I soaked the ray-chem dr-25 heat shrink and another slightly cheaper polyolefin option in gas for 10 days now due to a concern about using it on the in-tank fuel pump wiring.
All sections appear unchanged and I think this experiment is over. Good to know the pump can stay in place.. at least for now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115178&d=1569806159

[MSumners]

After some minor debate decided to do the RT drop trunk modification. I really couldn’t see a down-side to this and now would be the time to get it done. The assembly, fitting and placement are very straightforward and the kit I received went together perfectly. With dropping the tank, box assembly, drilling, marking, re-drilling, trunk marking and cutting, de-burring and placement, it probably took me a full 4 hours and well worth the time spent.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115280&d=1569903118

Marked out the trunk lid with silver sharpie.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115275&d=1569902923

Cut out easily with a jigsaw after drilling the corners.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115276&d=1569902959

After cutting the opening for the box per the instructions, definitely replace the trunk sheet and mark the locations of the cross beams from underneath. After this I re-cleco’d the whole thing together and extended the lines to the box to make the small indentation cuts with a dremel. 3 of the bars were exactly where they were marked but one was off by exactly one bar width. I rechecked this a couple times before I cut.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115277&d=1569903004

I still have to mark and trim the excess lip around the dropped area but it’s in and the cuts lined up exactly.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115279&d=1569903067

[MSumners]

Theoretically, if someone were to get rid of their fuel level sender and subsequently realize they actually needed it, where might one go about obtaining a new one. Asking for a friend of course.
Thanks in advance.

p.s. classic instruments sends their own 240-33 ohm sending units but it will not fit the roadster tank. It looks like a converter has to be used.

[Boydster]

Theoretically, if someone were to get rid of their fuel level sender and subsequently realize they actually needed it, where might one go about obtaining a new one. Asking for a friend of course.
Thanks in advance.

p.s. classic instruments sends their own 240-33 ohm sending units but it will not fit the roadster tank. It looks like a converter has to be used.

Hahaha! Done that kinda thing before.

Fox 87-93 Mustang sender... that's where your stock tank came from.

[MSumners]

Thanks got one ordered. Your build is looking awesome.


Hahaha! Done that kinda thing before.

Fox 87-93 Mustang sender... that's where your stock tank came from.

[MSumners]

Trimmed the edges of the drop trunk. Should I put a sort of gasket under the access panel on the drop trunk or is this not an issue? Now just have to wait to get the fuel sender re-installed and I can button up the rear end before lizard skin.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115361&d=1570114930

[Boydster]

Thanks got one ordered. Your build is looking awesome.

Thanks. Keep going, yours is lookin really good...

[Aircontroller]

Edwardb,

What power steering system is preferred? Electric or hydraulic? Thanks.


Welcome fellow Michigander. From the other side of the state. Congrats on your order and sounds like a nice build. Planning power steering? You won't regret it. I loved the Dart 347 in my 7750 build. For a pushrod motor. :p Adding EFI is a nice touch. Will be interested to hear how it works for you. Very nice job on the safety wires. Really the first time? If you ever get over this direction, Dream Cruise, or whatever, give me a shout out. Lots of enthusiasts and a great club over here. Good luck with your delivery and settle in for a nice enjoyable build. Along with lots of others on here, ready and willing to help.

[edwardb]

Edwardb,

What power steering system is preferred? Electric or hydraulic? Thanks.

Off topic for the build thread, but a quick response. You will get different opinions because it's not an absolute. By "electric" I'm going to assume you mean the type that uses an electric assist directly on the steering column with an electronic controller and a manual steering rack. Many have gone this way and are very happy with it. Others don't care for it and don't like the feel. I've heard just enough negative that personally I've stayed with traditional engine driven hydraulic setups. But again this is highly subjective, so take it as such. There are also electrically driven pump setups that are still hydraulic, just don't use the engine powered pump. (http://www.fastfreddiesfabrications.com/shop/category.php?id_category=4) I installed this version in a build and it works well. But the last two builds have stayed with KRC engine driven hydraulic with changeable flow valves. High end and somewhat expensive, but work very well.

[MSumners]

Was able to get some work done on the trunk area again tonight. After I Cleco’d the trunk panel and drop trunk in place I went to secure the fuel lines and realized the access panel was too small and I couldn’t get a wrench to the connections. I decided I wanted to have a larger access panel over the fuel pump.
Simple to do and lots of people have done this before.
Access area before enlarging that I had put rivet nuts into.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115757&d=1570678766
Outlined the new access area.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115756&d=1570678727
Placed 8-32 SS rivnuts
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115760&d=1570679407

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115759&d=1570678852

[PrestonT23]

Great progress on the build, keep up the good work!

[MSumners]

Nothing earth shattering but still plugging away when time allows. Working on the side trunk panels and got the RT signal positioned.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115987&d=1571023302



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115988&d=1571023343

[MSumners]

I’m planning on ordering some SS Gas’n sidepipes soon. The headers FF sends are shown below. I assume these will work, but what are advantages or disadvantages to using either these or the ones that Gas’n sells?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116080&d=1571194112

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116081&d=1571194143

[Gizmosrcool]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116081&d=1571194143

Nice and clean! Love the PC color.

[MSumners]

A Few Questions for the experienced here.

1: I've never lifted an engine before. I acquired a hoist, leveler with chains and lifting plate. I assume I just remove the 4 nuts as shown, the EFI comes off and the plate bolts on? Is this the best way to go about this?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116183&d=1571362442

2: Does anyone have a picture of how the underdash panel from Replicaparts fits in this area? I cant' see how it will work without cutting it up.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116185&d=1571363229

3: I gently placed the steering wheel and hub on the upper steering shaft just to eyeball the gauge positions. I can't get it to slide down at all without starting to mar up the edges and start to create a ridge. It seems like one of the edges will have to be filed down a bit. Has anyone else run into this. I understand its not supposed to seat all the way in but the slotted area almost appears to be the least bit off with respect to the upper steering shaft.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116184&d=1571362695

Thanks again for any guidance!

[edwardb]

Can't help you with the Replicaparts panel. Haven't used one. But for the other two -- Yes, a lifting plate on the intake works great. Seems a little scary hanging your engine and trans on there, but it's been done that way for decades and works very well. I've done it a bunch of times. You'll need to play around a little to see which hole gives the best balance location. I've typically used the front one. That's gives the best down angle to get the trans under the firewall, which may still need some pushing as you lower it into place. Some use a load leveler, but I haven't found that necessary when lifting from the carb location. Good luck.

https://oi867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/th_IMG_0123_zps9165b719.jpg (https://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0123_zps9165b719.jpg.html)

https://oi867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/th_IMG_0128_zps4da720ac.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0128_zps4da720ac.jpg.html)

For the steering column and hub, yes it's a tight friction fit. If there are any burrs or whatever, yes clean them up. But with the aluminum hub over the steel shaft, normally it will make its way in place using the mounting screw and a large washer. Then it will be tight with zero slop, which is exactly what you want. In my experience, once in place, you won't get it back off without using a puller. So be warned.

[Boydster]

On my #9042, the Replicaparts underdash panel fit perfect. I believe F5 made changes to the steering support bracket since mine, and chances are that Mikes panel is designed for the older setup. You probably just have to do some small trimming to make it fit.

But I would check with Mike first. He may have a more detailed answer.

[MSumners]

Will do, thanks again for the info and I’ll check with Mike. Just wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing something obvious or fitting it wrong somehow.


On my #9042, the Replicaparts underdash panel fit perfect. I believe F5 made changes to the steering support bracket since mine, and chances are that Mikes panel is designed for the older setup. You probably just have to do some small trimming to make it fit.

But I would check with Mike first. He may have a more detailed answer.

[MSumners]

Preparing to possibly install the engine and trans tomorrow and I was reviewing the manual and some build threads. For the transmission mount do I need the plate labeled ‘1’ below? I can’t seem to find it and don’t see anything similar in build pictures I reviewed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116303&d=1571539795

[edwardb]

Preparing to possibly install the engine and trans tomorrow and I was reviewing the manual and some build threads. For the transmission mount do I need the plate labeled ‘1’ below? I can’t seem to find it and don’t see anything similar in build pictures I reviewed

Not required for your engine. Used on Coyote and (I think) mod motors because they're not as long. But for sure not yours.

[Traveller]

Mike - I'm around this afternoon / evening, so if you do install the motor today let me know if you want an extra set of hands.

-Jason

[MSumners]

With the help of my old man and a fellow forum member (thanks Jason) we were able to get the engine and trans in without any issues.
I do have a question about the engine mounts where they meet up to the chassis mount as shown below.
On each side there is about 0.5-1mm space between contact at only the front edge of the mount. On both sides the pins are in the correct slots. The transmission is at the correct height with the 0.75 spacer and appears aligned. The distorted lock nuts have not been tightened down yet.
Before tightening these down I figured I would ask, should these be completely flush? Something else I'm missing or should check?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116388&d=1571625000

[MSumners]

To answer my own question, after the trans was raised to the correct height for pinion angle and the distorted lock nuts are turned down all is flat, solid and well.


With the help of my old man and a fellow forum member (thanks Jason) we were able to get the engine and trans in without any issues.
I do have a question about the engine mounts where they meet up to the chassis mount as shown below.
On each side there is about 0.5-1mm space between contact at only the front edge of the mount. On both sides the pins are in the correct slots. The transmission is at the correct height with the 0.75 spacer and appears aligned. The distorted lock nuts have not been tightened down yet.
Before tightening these down I figured I would ask, should these be completely flush? Something else I'm missing or should check?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116388&d=1571625000

[Traveller]

Glad to hear it, Mike. I enjoyed helping you get that motor put in place. You've got a great looking build! Looking forward to hearing you go-karting around the area soon.

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116370&d=1571601209

[TMartinLVNV]

Damn that looks good! I love the simplicity of a pushrod Ford motor in the engine bay!

[TMartinLVNV]

Damn that looks good! I love the simplicity of a pushrod Ford motor in the engine bay!

[edwardb]

Looks really good. I'm assuming you're going to take it back out to finish the DS footbox? Might be possible to rivet the inside pieces with the engine there. But wouldn't be particularly easy IMO. Very common to leave the outer top and outside side pieces off until the very last, e.g. right before the body goes on. But the inside not so much. Also, I'd recommend going ahead and bending your dash ends. You'll need to trim some length off on the PS to clear the short firewall piece on that side. Not required to trim the length on the DS, but I do just to keep things simpler. Maybe you already know all that. :p

[MSumners]

Good eye and thanks for looking out! The footbox was actually overlooked. I did realize it afterwards and looked at the clearance for getting rivets in place. The DS footbox is actually no problem but the U shaped piece in front of the trans cover is. I'm going to cleco everything in place and determine exactly what I can and cannot reach. If the direction of the rivets bothers me too much I'll just pull the engine partially out while I rivet them in place. Possibly I'll just use the black head rivets from Mcmaster and not worry about it because the only ones I can't reach will basically be hidden by the engine and body.
Thanks for the recommendation on the dash ends. I'm just starting to work on the dash and was determining fitment and where to bend them. They essentially just bend behind the hinges? I was tentatively planning on bending them around a small paint can. I just received supplies of carbon and leather and plan to work on the dash concurrently with finishing off fuel lines to the engine and working on the wiring harness. I'm fully prepared for the dash to be similar to the brake lines in that it'll likely be the third or fourth iteration I ultimately keep.


Looks really good. I'm assuming you're going to take it back out to finish the DS footbox? Might be possible to rivet the inside pieces with the engine there. But wouldn't be particularly easy IMO. Very common to leave the outer top and outside side pieces off until the very last, e.g. right before the body goes on. But the inside not so much. Also, I'd recommend going ahead and bending your dash ends. You'll need to trim some length off on the PS to clear the short firewall piece on that side. Not required to trim the length on the DS, but I do just to keep things simpler. Maybe you already know all that. :p

[MSumners]

I haven’t actually raised the tail of the transmission to the adequate height yet for pinion angle but noticed that the SFI bell housing does hang below the frame. It appears with adequate spacing on the trans it will be close, as others have encountered. It will likely be close to 1.25” spacer
If I have to trim the lower lip of the bell housing a bit, is the plasma cutter the way to go?
If so any recommendations?

[edwardb]

I cut mine with an air cut off tool. Cleaned/straightened with a belt sander, and touched up with black paint. Even a Dremel with a cut-off wheel could be used, but might go through a couple wheels. It's pretty tough. Plasma cutter would be a little overkill and rough IMO. But that's me. Plus I don't have one... I've had to do it a couple times. I cut it even with the level of the oil pan. So it's not the lowest point not matter what. Both of those were with Moroso pans on a Coyote, so may not be exactly the same with your setup.

[Mark Eaton]

MSummers,

x2 on what Paul said, plasma cutter is definitely over kill but if it fits into the budget they are a lot of fun to use on other projects!:) Another tool which will trim the bell housing is an angle grinder such as this one

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-11-Amp-Corded-4-1-2-in-Small-Angle-Grinder-DWE402W/206743975

These tools are super handy for these builds if you don't already have one.

[cv2065]

I've had my angle grinder and cut off wheel from Harbor Freight for 7 years...and they are still chugging. Save some money and take a visit if you have one close by. The only thing I wouldn't buy from there are portable, battery driven tools, but then again, HF is getting some upgraded versions of those as well.

[MSumners]

Thank you gentlemen. Sounds like I don't 'have' to buy a plasma cutter yet, but also seems like so much fun. I actually do have the same dewalt angle grinder and have found it useful for so many things in this build so far. I agree very useful. Once I get the panels figured out, riveted and trans raised appropriately I'll decide how much to take off. Initially looking at the bell housing it looks like a major thing to cut but sounds like it goes reasonably well with the cutoff tool.
Thanks again!

[MSumners]

Some slow but steady progress. Had the engine back out while I riveted in the drivers side footbox and went back in without any drama.

After looking at the driveshaft angle and spacing I thought would be adequate I ended up needing a taller spacer on the transmission mount. It was cheap to buy a 1.25” section of 6061 aluminum from onlinemetals to exactly the right length so that’s what I did to make a new spacer.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117181&d=1573010133

After securing the mount in and loosely attaching the driveshaft I checked the driveshaft angle with the iPhone TREMEC app and appears to be within range. If anyone sees anything else I should check please let me know.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117182&d=1573010169

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117183&d=1573010211


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117185&d=1573010893

[MSumners]

Anyone have recommendations for an adhesive for dash work?
I just acquired all the supplies and it’s planned to be a combination of layers; Aluminum,carbon,leather.
Thanks for any tips.

[MSumners]

Went to install the Metco driveshaft safety loop this evening. With the lower support mount flush and in place, I ended up with only about 3mm of clearance between the loop and the driveshaft as shown.
Is this typical or should spacing be a bit more?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117228&d=1573095751

[edwardb]

Anyone have recommendations for an adhesive for dash work?
I just acquired all the supplies and it’s planned to be a combination of layers; Aluminum,carbon,leather.
Thanks for any tips.

I've used multiple times and highly recommend DAP Weldwood Landau Top & Trim HHR Contact Cement. It's a professional product and used extensively in automotive and trip shops. If you've watched any of the car shows on TV (or seen in person) where they're spraying adhesive using a gun for interior work, 99.9% chance it was this stuff. I've found it can be brushed like regular contact cement. It flashes off very rapidly and makes a permanent bond. If you know someone at a local shop, you could maybe get a small quantity. They get it in large cans. Or you can buy gallons online. I haven't seen it in any retail stores. Not cheap but works as good as anything I've tried. I get it here: https://www.yourautotrim.com/noname37.html. There are also a number of different 3M (and perhaps other brands) spray can products. Others can recommend what works best for them. I've tried several and not nearly as happy with them as the DAP Landau product. Plus you really have to watch the overspray. It's a bit messy.


Went to install the Metco driveshaft safety loop this evening. With the lower support mount flush and in place, I ended up with only about 3mm of clearance between the loop and the driveshaft as shown.
Is this typical or should spacing be a bit more?

Yeah, that's too tight. Many of us have put spacers between the bottom bracket and the loop. May need to get longer bolts as a result. Will raise the loop up over the driveshaft to a more acceptable gap. Just visible in this pic.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007192014/.highres/IMG_2656_zps098e0b89.jpg (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/p/5a38dc24-b623-4100-86e8-4c8db28e0897)

[MSumners]

Thanks for the recommendations again. I bought a gallon of the dap adhesive mentioned as that was the smallest one I could find and I should probably be set for life on that.

Added some spacers to the safety loop.
Good clearance?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117277&d=1573258497

[edwardb]

That spacing on the driveshaft loop with IRS should be fine. You're right, a gallon of that DAP adhesive should last a while. Just make sure to keep it well sealed. The solvent will evaporate and it can become unusable if you don't. Has happened to me. Also use it with a lot of ventilation. You'll see what I mean when you use it.

[MSumners]

This is about the point I decided the air rivet gun was a wise purchase.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117312&d=1573344711

[MSumners]

Almost ready for lizard skin. Going to spend some time sealing up all of the small gaps and then masking everything off.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117383&d=1573448020

[Gizmosrcool]

That’s good looking. Too bad it gets covered up.

[MSumners]

Masking and lizard skin day. Spraying sound control and I’ll do the insulation Saturday.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117587&d=1573771876

[MSumners]

The lizard skin experience. I initially ordered the lizard skin set of sound control and ceramic insulation with the plan to get it sprayed when the weather was warmer. It does state in the instructions that it should be at least 60 degrees to set up correctly. I ended up taking longer, as usual, and getting sidetracked doing the drop trunk, switching out the fuel pump etc.
so ultimately I was ready to mask everything off and do the insulation but the snow is flying. I decided to heat the garage and get the spraying done but after the second coat 1- my 100lb propane tank ran dry and almost immediately blew a breaker and lost power. This left it sitting overnight at about 30degrees. I came back to it expecting to see a disaster but mostly it still set up well. There were 2 small areas that peeled away and may have been in fact some degree of silicone I didn’t completely get removed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117650&d=1573963385

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117651&d=1573963414

I still have to spray the ceramic insulation and will just focus this up front and in the foot boxes. I think I’ll probably do a small area of dynamat where I had trouble spraying around the DS

Notes about the lizard skin
1- disassemble and clean the spray gun extensively after every coat.
2- the recommended 55psi seemed to work very well.
3- between masking and spraying I probably have about 18 hours into this process so I’m not sure if it’s a time saver at all over other methods but have nothing to compare to.

Any recommendations on what to do with the small areas that peeled up, if anything?

[edwardb]

Any recommendations on what to do with the small areas that peeled up, if anything?

Hard to say what happened there. As you said, the surface could have been contaminated. The way it's cracked though, almost seemed like a curing issue which could be related to the low temps. Perhaps it was thicker there, which wouldn't be unusual in a corner like that. Personally, I'd scrape off what's loose and re-apply a few layers with a brush. It's in an area that won't be seen, plus covered by more coating and carpet. Shouldn't be an issue. Good luck with your next step. FWIW, long term forecasts show slightly warmer temps. But we're off to an early cold start here in MI.

[MSumners]

Thanks for the advice!
I’m still working on putting lizard skin down in 2 small areas that wanted to peel up. In the downtime I started working on the power steering lines. As usual I consulted Mark at Breeze and he set me up great fittings. All of his solutions always work perfect.
Below is how I created and ran the high pressure PS lines. There is plenty of clearance around the steering shaft and belt. Nothing is tightened down yet.
If anyone sees any issues let me know.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117682&d=1574035299

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117683&d=1574035367

[MSumners]

For the driveshaft adaptor, two different lengths of bolts were included. As others have noted, the longer set bottomed out prior to being fully seated. Instead of using the shorter set I ground the tip off of the longer bolts just enough to get full engagement and no bottoming out. I only had to take off <1/16.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117227&d=1573094596

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117226&d=1573094555

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117883&d=1574388454

[MSumners]

For those that have used Lizard skin ceramic insulation. Was it the consistency of very thick tar? Even with mixing this stuff there is no way it’s going to ‘pour’. I would have to spoon it into the sprayer I think to transfer it. Seems completely different than the picture they show of it being poured.

[edwardb]

For those that have used Lizard skin ceramic insulation. Was it the consistency of very thick tar? Even with mixing this stuff there is no way it’s going to ‘pour’. I would have to spoon it into the sprayer I think to transfer it. Seems completely different than the picture they show of it being poured.

Agreed. The ceramic doesn't easily pour. Hard to describe the consistency exactly. It's light, so not really like tar in my experience. More like real thick cake batter. (How's that for scientific?) Bottom line is whether it will spray OK. Using the Lizard Skin gun, I found the best setting was about 70 PSI and 2 turns out on the nozzle.

[MSumners]

Agreed. The ceramic doesn't easily pour. Hard to describe the consistency exactly. It's light, so not really like tar in my experience. More like real thick cake batter. (How's that for scientific?) Bottom line is whether it will spray OK. Using the Lizard Skin gun, I found the best setting was about 70 PSI and 2 turns out on the nozzle.

��
The cake batter is a perfect description.
On first trial at 70Psi wouldn’t spray at all. Watered it down just a bit, still thick and seems to spray ok.

[edwardb]

��
The cake batter is a perfect description.
On first trial at 70Psi wouldn’t spray at all. Watered it down just a bit, still thick and seems to spray ok.

Sounds like you have it under control. As long as you get the thickness you want, and it dries OK, (which it should) you will be fine.

[MSumners]

Just finished a 7 day on-call brutal rounding week and looking forward to hopefully some good build time over the weekend.
I finished lizard skin and plan to work on throttle, engine fuel lines, clutch.

It’s time to seriously narrow down and make decisions on paint scheme in the next couple months. Outside of random builds were there any resources anyone used for options?

[MSumners]

A bit of progress finishing up the fuel lines and starting on the Forte mechanical throttle linkage.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118284&d=1575089549

Having the adjustability in the system with the threaded sleeve makes a lot of sense. It’s reverse threaded on one end so you can just loosen the jam-nuts and make adjustments.
I certainly wish I would have left the top of the footbox off until this was finished. Not impossible to do but makes getting wrenches in and out more difficult. As usual everything is in and out enough times that I lost count with continual small adjustments.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118283&d=1575089467

Has anyone found a 3/8 shaft size flange bearing that will work for the rod going into the footbox?

[MSumners]

Forte mech throttle questions:

What is a ‘normal’ pedal travel ? My current setup gets about 1.5” but seems like it would be too sensitive.

Is it common/necessary to put grooves and set screws through the arms that the rod ends attach to?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118293&d=1575145834

[MSumners]

And yep,, I spent 2 hours wondering how it was possible I had such a short pedal travel and the block off plate was still on.
Once that was off it was perfect.
Love the Forte supplied set up.

For the access into the pedal box I decided to seal it up with a sleeve bushing and grommet. After some trial and error and, as usual the third iteration, settled on a flanged .5 OD /.375 ID bushing and .5 ID grommet as shown. The length of the bushing allowed for the correct angle without being binding on the mechanism. Also, when I was playing with the pedal travel I noticed the pedal box end of the rod would get displaced off center ever so slightly and decided to add a third rod end inside the pedal box for extra support. Now rock solid and as far as I can tell ready to go.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118314&d=1575174674

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118313&d=1575174598

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118312&d=1575174564

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118316&d=1575175434

[BradCraig]

Great work so far, definitely helps me plan my build out. Should have it delivered by end of Dec. As far as tires, I see you went with the Toyo R888R. What led you to that over other options? What I am finding is that the options are surprisingly thin for the spec'd sizes for 18" wheels.

[MSumners]

Great work so far, definitely helps me plan my build out. Should have it delivered by end of Dec. As far as tires, I see you went with the Toyo R888R. What led you to that over other options? What I am finding is that the options are surprisingly thin for the spec'd sizes for 18" wheels.

I as well found few options for a set with all four tires and this was one of them. My decision was really simply based on recommendations of a few others that have used them and had no complaints and that they stick like glue. I however do not plan to test their limit anytime soon.