MJS Mk4 Build Thread

[Mark Eaton]

That sleeved grommet with a bushing is pretty slick! I wish I had thought of that...

[Mark Eaton]

That sleeved grommet with a bushing is pretty slick! I wish I had thought of that...

[MSumners]

Wiring question: Day 1.
Using the classic instruments gauges so I may very well have to go to the source but figured I would check here as well.

My question is in regards to the speedometer wiring. I notice I have a wire for both a 'speed signal' and also a 'pulse signal generator' coming from the speedometer. Not sure if both get connected?

On the instructions included with the speedometer it says to either use a pulse signal generator wire - OR - use a VSS wire. They did in-fact send the pulse signal generator with the package.

I'm planning on using the Molex connectors that others have described and appear pretty slick.

Can I just hook up the connection that comes off the rear harness to the speed sensor already installed and connect the corresponding wires from the dash harness into the molex connector.

Not even sure if I'm asking the right questions at this point. Thanks for any guidance.



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118417&d=1575340059

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118420&d=1575342094

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118418&d=1575340094

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118419&d=1575340122

[MSumners]

Working through the wiring and all is coming along.

Going to work on fitting the dash soon and make it removable as is commonly done.
Is it reasonable to install the dash without the body on for exact placement?

When looking from the engine bay to the rear, does the top center of the dash get lined up flush with the top of the hoop ?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118645&d=1575819334

[Jeff Kleiner]

When looking from the engine bay to the rear, does the top center of the dash get lined up flush with the top of the hoop ?



No. There is often variation in the curve of the hoop so don't use the top/center of it as your locator . Set the dash so that you have approximately 3/16" of the end of the curved hoop visible above the dash like I show here:

https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/p720x720/75279375_2373374912785203_3990571367320780800_o.jp g?_nc_cat=103&_nc_ohc=ME0AZuOt7NwAQk6ZPbfT05kY74ZMsU_6rgb8KTYCWP DFi37k8msWJ1vLg&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=07f2eaec685f669e36b23366808768d0&oe=5E7E11A7

Jeff

[MSumners]

Perfect, thank you sir!


No. There is often variation in the curve of the hoop so don't use the top/center of it as your locator . Set the dash so that you have approximately 3/16" of the end of the curved hoop visible above the dash like I show here:

https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/p720x720/75279375_2373374912785203_3990571367320780800_o.jp g?_nc_cat=103&_nc_ohc=ME0AZuOt7NwAQk6ZPbfT05kY74ZMsU_6rgb8KTYCWP DFi37k8msWJ1vLg&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=07f2eaec685f669e36b23366808768d0&oe=5E7E11A7

Jeff

[MSumners]

I assume these thumbscrews would interfere with the body or be inaccessible, or both?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119203&d=1576813023

[MSumners]

Does this whole hex shaped barrel get removed to screw in the oil pressure sender?
The threads on the sender are 3/8 fine.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119317&d=1577037909

[Railroad]

The hex extension stays on the engine. It should have female pipe threads where the black cap is.
If your sending unit is not pipe threads, you will need an adapter.

[Railroad]

On the foot box access panel, you might be able to use the lowest one. The top two would not work on mine.

[MSumners]

Working through the wiring harness and came to a few questions tonight.

I'm using a Fitech GoEFI 600 and all of the connections are completed or at least run near their respective connections.

1: Can anyone verify which side of the fuel pump jumper I cut and which one I connect to? It looks slightly different than the manual.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119361&d=1577071641


2: Can anyone else using the Fitech verify that none of these wires are needed?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119362&d=1577071664

3: For the temp gauge input signal, can I splice off this connection that goes back to the ECU and run to the gauge? Otherwise I would run one from the radiator?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119363&d=1577071695

[GTBradley]

“I assume these thumbscrews would interfere with the body or be inaccessible, or both?l

The top ones will most definitely not fit or be accessible. You could use the lower ones and across the top just notch the hatch and use rivnuts, just don’t tighten those all the way down. That way you can slide the top part of the hatch into position and use the lower ones to hold it tight.

[MSumners]

Wiring slowly continues

I think I have all the routing figured out. Just a matter of terminating and getting it organized.

Put the battery in and it fits like a glove in the Breeze front box.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119543&d=1577570213

[MSumners]

Will mounting the horns as shown interfere with anything ?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119550&d=1577596388

[Mark Eaton]

[QUOTE=MSumners;393457]Will mounting the horns as shown interfere with anything ?

That horn on the inside might interfere with your radiator cowl/surround panel depending on what you decide to do with those.

Mark

[MSumners]

Thanks again everyone for all the help

Anyone run into this fuel pump relay jumper connection that looks quite different than the manual?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119422&d=1577164153


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119361&d=1577071641

[edwardb]

Interesting. Looks like another version of the Ron Francis harness. Has changed several times with the several I've used. Not unusual, unfortunately, for the Factory Five manual to not keep up. Hopefully though the RF wiring manual you received is showing the version you have. That relay enables the fuel pump inertia switch. In that picture, they're using different sources to power the fuel pump (the brown wire on the LH side of the relay looking at the picture) and the relay coil (the orange wire at the bottom of the relay). In the previous version, the first picture you posted, there's a jumper powering both off the same source. Not sure why the difference. Either accomplishes the same thing. Not sure about your specific setup. You can break into either wire, and have your external EFI system power either the fuel pump directly or the relay coil.

FYI, the inertia switch provides the ground connection for that relay. If the ground is open (e.g. inertia switch triggered) then the relay breaks the power connection to the fuel pump. The brown wire on the RH side of the relay, looking at the picture, is the power feed going to the fuel pump.

[MSumners]

For anyone like me new to wiring and harness work I would recommend getting the free catalog from Ron Francis. The back of it has a good sized section on basics and general rules/tips.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119865&d=1578006488

[MSumners]

This picture accurately summarizes my recent work.
Currently carefully going through all the alterations to work with the Classic Instruments gauges and learning a lot along the way. I thought I wouldn’t like the wiring but actually truly enjoy doing it. Definitely a steep learning curve here.
Nearly everything is wired and first start attempt should be soon. The final two connections are still the FiTech to fuse panel for the pump and fan. I need to review those connections again to make sure I know exactly where I’m tying into. From what I’ve read there seems to be a difference in whether you decide to utilize the inertia switch and relay or simply connect straight to the fuel pump. It appears this may affect some settings on the FiTech based on what specific fuel pump is being used. Again, more research is needed.
Waiting on pipes from Gas’n and will likely be ready for first start when they arrive.
You’ll also notice the 4awg ground wire in the box. ‘Someone’ cut that one a hair too short.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120684&d=1579065748

[MSumners]

Pulled the headers out to get ready for install and noticed I didn’t have bolts for this connection.
Does anyone recall if they were packed with the headers in the same box or elsewhere? Maybe I missed that somehow in the inventory.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121206&d=1579803966

[TMartinLVNV]

On mine, those bolts were already in place holding the two pieces together IIRC. The header bolts for the the motor were in a plastic bag in the box.

They are grade 5 hardware bolts and locking nuts. I can measure mine for you if you just want to pick them up at Ace.

[MSumners]

That would be great thanks !
Distorted lock nuts I assume?

[MSumners]

When I looked at the headers closer I noticed both of the ends had some damage to them and don’t look like they would be able to form a seal.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121241&d=1579822140

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121242&d=1579822172

[TMartinLVNV]

That would be great thanks !
Distorted lock nuts I assume?

https://i413.photobucket.com/albums/pp213/tmartinlvnv/DSC03738.jpg (http://s413.photobucket.com/user/tmartinlvnv/media/DSC03738.jpg.html)
I think these are grade 5 with a flange. I am including a picture just in case I am wrong. Yes, an evil distorted locking nut that exhausts my puny arm muscles.
2.5" long, 3/8-16

[TMartinLVNV]

I am not a metallurgist and I did not stay at a Holiday Inn last night. But the headers are stainless steel and are pretty soft. My guess is that when you join the two parts together and tighten the nuts, they will distort to create a seal pretty easily.

[MSumners]

That's a good thought maybe they would. I honestly have no idea. Anyone else have any thoughts on whether this would seal up or not?
I planned to contact FFR today but as usual work was busy from minute-one and the next time I looked up it was 6pm.
Thanks for any thoughts.

[MSumners]

Knocked a couple things off the list today. Something I was putting off was dismantling the mech throttle and pinning the arms to the SS bar. I realized with everything installed getting a wrench into the pedal box was going to be nearly impossible. I ended up drilling and tapping 10-32 through the arm and SS bar and securing with a 3/4” set screw.
Then finished up the fuel vent.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121370&d=1579992064

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121371&d=1579992343

[Railroad]

That's a good thought maybe they would. I honestly have no idea. Anyone else have any thoughts on whether this would seal up or not?
I planned to contact FFR today but as usual work was busy from minute-one and the next time I looked up it was 6pm.
Thanks for any thoughts.

They will seal up fine. You can pull that dent up with an adjustable wrench. If you like put a little smear of anti seize on the contact circle. Put just enough you know it is there, no globs or beads. Do not over tighten the bolts. You can always snug it up, if you need too.

[MSumners]

Thank you sir!
Ready to install and I’ll take the recommendation on the anti seize too.


They will seal up fine. You can pull that dent up with an adjustable wrench. If you like put a little smear of anti seize on the contact circle. Put just enough you know it is there, no globs or beads. Do not over tighten the bolts. You can always snug it up, if you need too.

[MSumners]

The header gasket is flat on one side and has this small raised ridge on the other. Does the flat side face the header ?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121517&d=1580215687

[Greg K]

Flat side against heads.

[TMartinLVNV]

The header gasket is flat on one side and has this small raised ridge on the other. Does the flat side face the header ?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121517&d=1580215687

The side with the ridge goes against the header.

[MSumners]

Thank you gentlemen!

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121887&d=1580690692

[Jim1855]

Mike,
I'm really impressed with your build and enthusiasm. Looks great.
Jim - Ada

[MSumners]

Thanks Jim I appreciate it,
This build process has been even more fun than I anticipated.
One of these days we will have to meet up, hopefully in the summer when this thing is rolling.

[MSumners]

Back from vacation and back to the build.

Working on creating brackets for the overflow reservoir. Will it cause interference if the top lid extends above the rail here by about 1/4”?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123279&d=1582776327

[TMartinLVNV]

That might be a problem. I have the top just under the top of that frame rail. You can mount it on the F-Panel itself. Lots of room there.

[TMartinLVNV]

When I got home from work after a 16 hr day last night (I'm ready for the weekend), I took a look at where I have my catch can. Here is a pic I took before the body was on.
https://i413.photobucket.com/albums/pp213/tmartinlvnv/DSC03701.jpg (https://s413.photobucket.com/user/tmartinlvnv/media/DSC03701.jpg.html)
The hood bulges down to just about even with the lower part of that frame rail. So, I'd recommend making the catch can cap just under the height of that frame rail. You can also see where I have it on the F panel. Also, that back edge of the F panel is not 90 degrees vertical. So don't use that line to place your can. I used a bubble level to ensure that the catch can was 90 degrees.

[edwardb]

Suggest you guys take a look at where the hood gas strut drops down in that area. Not just the hood to be concerned with. This picture shows my #8674 20th Anniversary build. The tank in this case is the PS reservoir. But would be the same with your radiator tank. With the cap below the 3/4-inch tube, clears the gas strut. There would be interference if it were much higher, including at the top of the 3/4-inch tube.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/.highres/IMG_1054_zpsubcglk9s.jpg (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/p/49576ca7-e351-4327-af2a-2b9d8b352c78)

[MSumners]

Perfect, thanks. Looked through some pictures but couldn't quite tell exactly from the angles. I ended up buying a larger reservoir as it seems is commonly recommended and trying to find the right position. Time to make some new supports.

[MSumners]

Decided to try my hand at powder coating and picked up the simple Eastwood system and after a recommendation from Mark Eaton powders from Prismatic.
Actually very easy to use and the first run turned out great. I figured black would be hard to screw up so started here on the Gasn pipe hangers.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123387&d=1583026319

[MSumners]

Finally got the overflow mounted. I’m using a larger version similar to the one provided by FF. I’ve read some concerns about it being too small and just figured I would rather make the exchange during the build rather than later. I needed just a bit of extra clearance from the F panel so I cut some mounting plates from aluminum scrap I had, powder coated and mounted up.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123417&d=1583093760

[Mark Eaton]

Well done!

[jiriza84641]

Brake lines finished. Just a short checklist and I’ll be filling the system/bleeding them.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110161&d=1562376118

The screws clamps, are they attached with rivnuts or tapped?

[MSumners]

Those are tapped for the 10-32 button heads.

[jiriza84641]

Finally got the overflow mounted. I’m using a larger version similar to the one provided by FF. I’ve read some concerns about it being too small and just figured I would rather make the exchange during the build rather than later. I needed just a bit of extra clearance from the F panel so I cut some mounting plates from aluminum scrap I had, powder coated and mounted up.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123417&d=1583093760


Those are tapped for the 10-32 button heads.

Thanks, prepping my tool and screw list. Edward says 3/8” is the most common he uses.

[MSumners]

Dash question for the experienced

I am creating a custom dash and roughly using the provided blank sheet from factory five as the initial template. My question is in regards to how to shape the upper part of the dash that will be against the hoop. I know it’s recommended to keep the ends of the FF dash 3/16” below the far edges of the hoop because of some variation in hoop curvature. On the provided blank dash and with the RT signal assembly in place, prior to adjustment the edges are both about 1/2” above the bar and the center is lined up exactly at the upper edge of the hoop. Obviously the steering column hole will have to be enlarged to lower my template. That will put the top center of the dash near the lower edge of the hoop at its center.
On my custom cut, can I follow the hoop exactly at its upper margin or should I still maintain the 3/16” gap as you would with the stock provided version.
Thanks again for any guidance or thoughts!

Mike S

[edwardb]

Dash question for the experienced

I am creating a custom dash and roughly using the provided blank sheet from factory five as the initial template. My question is in regards to how to shape the upper part of the dash that will be against the hoop. I know it’s recommended to keep the ends of the FF dash 3/16” below the far edges of the hoop because of some variation in hoop curvature. On the provided blank dash and with the RT signal assembly in place, prior to adjustment the edges are both about 1/2” above the bar and the center is lined up exactly at the upper edge of the hoop. Obviously the steering column hole will have to be enlarged to lower my template. That will put the top center of the dash near the lower edge of the hoop at its center.
On my custom cut, can I follow the hoop exactly at its upper margin or should I still maintain the 3/16” gap as you would with the stock provided version.
Thanks again for any guidance or thoughts!

Mike S

If you're making an all new dash piece, can't think of any reason why exactly following the top of the dash hoop would be a problem. It's all underneath the body lip.

[MSumners]

Decided I wanted a parking brake that I could reach from the drivers seat. Looked through build logs and decided to put it through the trans top. I bought a Lokar brake setup and removed the mounting brackets. Drilled out 5/16 mounting holes and 3/8” spacers to distance it from the trans tunnel side. Secured temporarily and works great and rock solid secure. I’ll have to replace the mounting bolts with some low-profile heads or grind them down to fit under tte side of the trans top edge.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124051&d=1584233780

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124052&d=1584233828

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124053&d=1584234541

[shark92651]

Decided I wanted a parking brake that I could reach from the drivers seat. Looked through build logs and decided to put it through the trans top. I bought a Lokar brake setup and removed the mounting brackets. Drilled out 5/16 mounting holes and 3/8” spacers to distance it from the trans tunnel side. Secured temporarily and works great and rock solid secure. I’ll have to replace the mounting bolts with some low-profile heads or grind them down to fit under tte side of the trans top edge.

Nice e-brake setup. Perhaps something like an elevator bolt would work well here. You could drill the outside of the 3/4" tube to the width of the neck, and use a file it to square it up. This would probably be a LOT stronger than a flat head and countersunk hole.

https://www.mcmaster.com/94650a413

124075

[MSumners]

Good idea.
I looked at ultra low profile hex heads from McMaster but they want $19 each for the 2.25”!
I think I can spend a bit of time on the grinder and get a great result on the ones I have. I don’t think a countersink is an option there isn’t enough depth. The FF Metals trans top cover has about a 1/4 gap on each side so I won’t have to clearance the heads too much.

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124133&d=1584383979

[MSumners]

Dash template one of 31.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123819&d=1583725509

[MSumners]

How much fluid should the KRC power steering take? With priming the system I can only get about 8oz to the level in the reservoir as recommended.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124373&d=1584667384

[Mark Eaton]

I purchased two bottles of this

https://www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple-ROY01326-Power-Steering/dp/B001DKPXU8/?creativeASIN=B001DKPXU8&linkCode=w61&imprToken=rrmDH5DgjyR0KMDOx0kijg&slotNum=8&tag=power-steering-fluids-pcr-20

I don't think I even used the second bottle. Probably did it wrong but I check the level frequently and it hasn't changed from the fill line and the system seems to work fine. I'm up to almost 400 miles.

I like your dash, only 31 templates, LOL?!

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124416&d=1584725829

[MSumners]

For the supplied FFR shift lever, I assume the mounting holes have to be drilled out to fit the TKO? Seems basic but just asking as I don’t recall seeing this before.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124472&d=1584803510

[shark92651]

Yeah and it's a bit of a pain to drill out. I used it temporarily but ended up using the ********** 427 shifter after go-cart stage.

[TMartinLVNV]

Yep, I had to open up the holes a little. I found that the shifter arm passes through the tranny tunnel hole more centered when mounted on the left side rather than the right side. Basically, reverse the two bolts orientation.

[MSumners]

Made an adjustable pedal stop with some aluminum block scrap. Measured out the distance I would need at full throttle open, Drilled out a mounting hole and tapped the adjustable stop for a 3/8-16. The red stop is from McMaster.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124481&d=1584824986

[MSumners]

Template 2 of many in process
Nothing is tightened down just loosely set to check overall placement.
Nearly a keeper but still a few things to change and the clock has to go somewhere.
The toggles are too close together and should have spaced them 1.5-2” apart.
Probably will have another couple rounds of trial before cutting into the expensive stuff.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124599&d=1584914159

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124604&d=1584914687

[MSumners]

I was planning on working on the breeze roll bars soon. I’ve read some concerns with having them tack-welded while on the car in terms of damaging electronics.
I have most of the wiring in place. The engine is grounded and the EFI is wired. The fuel pump and all senders are wired.
The battery is disconnected and none of the gauges nor switches are hooked up yet.
Is tack welding the roll bars on the car a legitimate concern in this state?

[MSumners]

As if I needed motivation to buy a new awesome tool. A day of hammering aluminum panels against a metal strip and the workbench and cutting with aviation snips. I’m onto the “it’ll pay for itself” stage of reasoning here.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124683&d=1585013091

[MSumners]

Breeze roll bars fit and welded today. Certainly wasn’t the cleanest weld line I’ve ever seen but a bit of time with the angle grinder taking down the mounds and it looks reasonable. Before they get taken off and finished in the future I’ll clean them up some more. I think I learned the difference between Tig welding and whatever this was today. My fault for not realizing the difference.

They did require minimal adjustment after welding using both the floor jack to spread one and the ratchet strap trick to narrow the other. Now they slide right in and out with no interference.
Next step is to drill the holes for the through bolts.

Are people through-bolting all 3 legs or just the rear and one front leg?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124728&d=1585089449

[MSumners]

The build one year ago.

Nearly made go-cart in a year as was the initial thought.
Just a few things on the short list and have to look at doing a rough alignment and it’s go-cart time

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124768&d=1585138082

[Jim1855]

Mike,

Thru-bolting 2 or 3 bars. I'd thru-bolt all three. In the past, with another Cobra brand, I'm aware of the bar pulling off the frame mount in a roll over. It wasn't bolted at the point of separation, the bolted connections stayed together. Doesn't mean that it will or won't happen with the Breeze bars but I don't think there would be a downside. Will you have access to all three bolts on each side?

What hardware are you planning to use as the thru-bolts. I've used shoulder bolts in previous installations as they are solid with threads on the ends and less susceptible to shear.

Jim

[MSumners]

Thanks Jim, all three it is. They should be no problem to access.

[BadAsp427]

Perhaps I missed something, but with the rear leg welded on, how do you install the roll bars once the body is installed?

[MSumners]

The rear leg isn’t welded, just the top of the hoop. With the breeze bar it comes as separate steel pieces and has to be fit to the car and welded. Then it can be taken off and finished. So right now it is welded and fit but slides on and off easily. There are sleeves that you can see from the rear leg with a 1.75” OD, 1.5” ID that allow the rollbar to slide over the mounts.

[Boydster]

Perhaps I missed something, but with the rear leg welded on, how do you install the roll bars once the body is installed?

The 3rd leg has a sub piece that slides up into the breeze bar with enough clearance to then remove the bars straight up.

[MSumners]

As I was standing and staring ( this happens more and more) at the few things I’ve been working on lately I noticed the passenger roll bar was a few millimeters higher than the drivers side. Unfortunately once I see something like this I can’t leave it alone. Sometimes I wish I could. I looked and noticed the front legs of the bar weren’t completely flush to the floor due to a weld bead, actually one on each leg. I took the dremel out, ground them down flush and the front legs sat flush and even. Then went to slide the rear coupling sleeve down to the frame mount but now it’s out of alignment. The sleeve was about 5mm too far inward, meaning the rear leg would have to be pulled away from the front legs. I recall reading about using a leverage bar on the rear leg but had no idea how to secure the bar down to get enough force into it. After staring again for a bit, decided to use a big C clamp as shown to pull the leg out with the front legs in place. I grooved a small piece of wood to stabilize the clamp and protect the frame. On the initial attempts the whole hoop simply wanted to lift out of the mounts so I had to secure the whole thing to the rear harness straps with rope to hold it down. It took a few cycles of some serious effort and it had to be taken quite a bit past where I thought it would due to its memory but now finally have the sleeve lined up.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124818&d=1585193389

[MSumners]

After bonehead move number 6,453 the trans tunnel is nearly ready. May have to trim a hair more but very close.
On attempt number two, after making a template, somehow I cut the the hole for the new E-brake on the wrong side and had to order a new lid from FF metals.
At least I didn’t order the expensive low profile head bolts from McMaster for the EBrake mount. The regular profile bolts actually fit perfect underneath the edge of the FF metals top.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124970&d=1585360131

[MSumners]

All the bulb seal on or off for first body fitment?
I planned to set position after the body is on for:
1- breeze seat bases
2- roll bar bolts
3- side pipes
4- dash.

Anything else I should look at or thoughts?

Thanks all

[MSumners]

What’s an acceptable fuel line to header distance here? Should I shield this?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125457&d=1585832702

[MSumners]

Applied power to the system for the first time. I almost expected either nothing to work or everything to explode and neither of those things happened so that was a bonus. Actually all the gauges are lighting up and acting as they should, the fuel pump kicks on and the EFI. As far as I can tell everything is working as it’s supposed to. Creeping towards first start but I keep getting distracted on other small things I want to finish first. After some forum recommendations I picked up a ShopFox sheet metal brake. Only trialed on a few test pieces so far but appears to be well constructed and I think I’ll be really happy with it. Now I’ll likely put in the dash template and hook everything in while I’m working on the final version of the dash.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125590&d=1585966845

[MSumners]

Continuing some non photogenic work on simple things, patching the E-brake trans tunnel hole after relocating it, finalizing dash placement and dimensions before panels go to the laser after iteration number 4. I also picked up some new powders from prismatic to trial. This is 'super chrome'. I was really impressed by how it turned out. This was simply on a bracket I needed to make that won't be visible and not something I spent time preparing well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125980&d=1586473534

[MSumners]

Opinions please.
After seeing the recent steering wheel quick release mod Karlos et al. have done I decided to follow suit as I thought it would be useful. I also decided to farm out the re-drilling and tapping to a machine shop because 1: I don't even own a drill press and 2: I didn't know about the centering hubs that were floating around.

I just picked up the finished pieces today. As you can see the attachment is not completely centered. I did make it clear that this was the critical part of the process when I dropped it off.
Personally I feel for the price ($389) this should be flawless. Before I contact the machine shop, my questions are as follows.

1: is this acceptable at all?
2: will this be noticeable and how would you proceed strictly from the build standpoint?

Thanks for any thoughts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126066&d=1586546677

[edwardb]

Probably not noticeable or an issue. But good grief. I would be disappointed too. That's not very good work. Might be possible to clock it around and make new holes. How's the steering wheel? Get that centered?

[RoadRacer]

That's awful. I hope that price includes parts, and they didn't just charge that for labor. Unless they were really friendly I'd be asking them to replace the part and redo at their expense.

But you could also just cover it up and move on and never think of it again..

[Railroad]

I would have a conversation about that, for that price. See if they want to buy a new hub and try again, or give your money back and leave. If it will fit and work, I doubt you will notice the run out at the rim of the steering wheel.
Looks like they free handed it.

[Mark Eaton]

Not acceptable. I didn't use that quick release but won't that make your steering wheel lopsided? That will always bother you. They need to make that right.

[MSumners]

Actually the wheel orientation appears perfect, which makes it all the more odd.
Nonetheless, I’m confident they will work to make this right, just waiting to hear back. Either way I’ll get this corrected. Mark is right it’s just something that would always bother me even if it functions normally.
In the meantime plenty of other things to work on. Doing the LED install today. Once I figure out the wiring I plan to hook up all of the lights and do testing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126134&d=1586622273

[MSumners]

I found 1/2” and 1” weatherstrip. I assume the 1/2 goes along the sides of the hood opening and trunk curved hoop.
Maybe I missed it somewhere but what’s the 1” for?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126276&d=1586742004

[TMartinLVNV]

I found 1/2” and 1” weatherstrip. I assume the 1/2 goes along the sides of the hood opening and trunk curved hoop.
Maybe I missed it somewhere but what’s the 1” for?

I'm hoping that someone knows what this is used for. I have been wondering myself and these are sitting in on of my "parts not used" boxes.

[edwardb]

The narrower material is for along the hood outline and trunk hoop. The wider material I believe is the expanding foam meant to go on the footboxes right behind the door hinges right before you put the body one. Check the instructions for final body installation and you should see it. I've had mixed results with that approach, and I think so have others. There are a number of threads where builders have shown alternatives to filling the gap between the straight footboxes and the curved body sides.

[MSumners]

Another box emptied means hours of car ramp fun.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126592&d=1587077468

[MSumners]

Working on weatherpacking (verb) the light connections. This is how long my length is from the RF harness side connection. How much can or should I trim down the length of the wire bundle coming off the lights?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126702&d=1587228373

[Mark Eaton]

I'm no expert but I left mine kind of long and tidied them up with zip ties. I figured that would be easier than adding wire if I came up short.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126733&d=1587253603

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126732&d=1587253577

[MSumners]

Thanks Mark, appreciated.

Anyone ordering weather packs for the rear lights may want to look at the wire gauge shown. I ordered 16-18ga terminals after looking at the wire but clearly these are not AWG standard. Going to have to re-order 20-22ga terminals. No way I could get the pins to grip on these and might as well get it right the first time.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126735&d=1587265298

[MSumners]

Final dash cad complete and off to the laser.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126856&d=1587495037

[Mick40]

The chrome powder coat, I'm guessing you did not clear coat it correct? Most turn a dull chrome and look more like silver. Without the clear, it will scratch easily. Did you find this the case with this powder?

Nice build!!!

Mick

[MSumners]

I actually covered that with a blue topcoat just to test it. I did just do the quickjacks as well and have the clear topcoat to put on. I’ll let you know how it turns out.

[Mick40]

I'm asking because I use Eastwoods almost chrome and they recommend the top coat. Without it, the PC could pass for chrome. Depending on the part and where it's located I would forgo the top coat. Quick Jacks, is one of those parts. When they start looking bad, just remove and reshoot.

Thanks, look forward to the update!!!

Mick

[MSumners]

I am planning on polishing and keeping the stainless front and rear hinge hardware raw. I took it down with a wire wheel and looks great right now. Any recommendations on polishing or treating these parts?

[MSumners]

Reading some recent threads got me thinking again about my wiring of the FiTech EFI (30002) and the fan relay connection. I followed the wiring manual but this is not correct for my application. Indeed on review i spliced into the positive relay side when the FiTech actually sends a ground signal so I have to re-do the connection, repair the red jumper and tag into one of the thermo control green wires. I pulled the terminals out, ordered the correct replacements and will make a replacement jumper as the cut one is now too short to repair.
The FiTech instructions are clear, as shown. For any new builders I would recommend having a clear understanding of relay wiring prior to doing this. It is not complicated at all and may save you some grief.
Always more to learn.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127429&d=1588132605

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127428&d=1588132574

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127430&d=1588133697

[MSumners]

Your mission, if you choose to accept it, is to make this rats nest of a dash harness organized.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127675&d=1588544693

[jiriza84641]

take your time and use plenty of wire ties, to organize?

[MSumners]

I think this is about as organized as its going to get. One thing i have to do is replace the input and output to the cutoff switch with 90degree angled terminals to take some stress off the lines at the angle they are running.

My vision for the dash/ interior is slowly taking shape. Right now the amount of shiny metal is a bit overwhelming but will be toned down with the next step. I'm having a second overlying trim piece modified and laser cut from the same file that I will cover with black leather and will continue to the trans to and side/bottom fill pieces I'm making.

One question I have is regarding diodes. I'm going to systematically replace the bulbs back to the LED one at a time to see where my backfeeding issue is. I will likely add grounds as needed and possibly some diodes. Does anyone have a link to exactly what diodes I should use for the taillights or turn signals? I would like to have some on hand ahead of time.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127831&d=1588765001

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127811&d=1588716667

[MSumners]

How far down is everyone pulling the steering wheel onto the steering shaft for go-cart?

Making sure it is lined up I still can’t get the boss advanced very far and it is very loose. I’m assuming I may just have to pull it down with the bolt and use a steering wheel puller to get it back off but I don’t recall anyone else discussing this before.

[egchewy79]

With your seats in, you'll want the steering wheel at your wrist level with arms fully extended.

[edwardb]

How far down is everyone pulling the steering wheel onto the steering shaft for go-cart?

Making sure it is lined up I still can’t get the boss advanced very far and it is very loose. I’m assuming I may just have to pull it down with the bolt and use a steering wheel puller to get it back off but I don’t recall anyone else discussing this before.

Yes and yes. You'll need to use the bolt and washer to pull the steering wheel into place and get properly seated. Don't even think about driving it without doing that. And yes, you'll likely need a puller to get it back off. I have this HF one and works fine. The price is crazy. https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/auto-maintenance-repair/pullers/bolt-type-wheel-puller-set-62620.html.

[MSumners]

First start attempt will be today. Going through a last checklist prior to pulling it out of the garage this afternoon.
One thing I went back and forth on and ultimately decided to include was a fire system. Hopefully obviously never needed but some peace-of-mind.
Bottle is mounted in the trunk and lines run down the trans tunnel. One auto nozzle is at the gas tank and two others in the engine bay. The included lines I didn't want to hassle with so created my own lines and nozzles from let lok compression fittings and 1/4 stainless from Inline tube.

Nearly ready!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127922&d=1588945202

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127919&d=1588945075

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127921&d=1588945134

[MSumners]

First start attempt was a bust.
Turns over but no start. Went through the Fitech quick start instructions (at least a few times) and verified the setup.
Fuel pump kicks on for 5-8 seconds as it should, no leaks in the system. Verified again the fuel send and return lines are correct.
It does not appear to be getting spark at the plug when removed and grounded with cranking. Not quite sure where to go here but apparently time to do more reading.

— one of the things I’ll check tonight is if I get a tach signal during cranking.

update: indeed there is no tach signal on neither the handheld unit nor the gauge during cranking. Re-verified all the wiring according to Fitech instructions. Definitely getting fuel to the system and its turning over strong. From reading some Fitech support threads it certainly appears the unit is sensitive to changes in cranking voltage drops but I don't believe that's currently an issue and will check. Either way I'll trickle charge the battery overnight and try again. I have a message out to tech support at Fitech as well to see where I possibly went wrong.

[MSumners]

I've been reading more about troubleshooting this and some general questions came up that I'm still unsure about. Obviously Mike Forte would be able to answer but is closed for the weekend so I figured I would try here first to work on it this weekend.
As listed I have a sbf 347 and Fitech go efi 600 model 30002, Pertronix flamethrower Ignitor 2 distributor and coil. When reading the Fitech setup instructions they make a distinction between a "ready to run" distributor and a "conventional" distributor. I wired up as a ready to run version and according to their instructions, was this correct?
My second question is; how do I determine if I need to hook up the vacuum advance? It appears the fitech can't control the timing to the distributor in this setup so I'm not sure how it would be possible that I don't need it? Still reading more but I'm stuck on this basic understanding and the instructions included from pertronix are basic and not specific to my model.
Any guidance or other info needed to proceed would be greatly appreciated.

[Boydster]

FiTech is largely made for people upgrading their systems. so they may have a distributor that still uses points and a capacitor. This is a Conventional Distributor.
Ready To Run generally has 2 or 3 wires to it that install to the coil and ground.
"I wired up as a ready to run version and according to their instructions, was this correct?" I'd say yes.

If you have a vac advance distributor on the street, you should hook it up. The vac advance increases the efficiency of the engine at certain times, increases throttle response, can give a smoother idle and slightly lower coolant temps. Lots of articles out there on the advantages of vac advance. Really, the only time to not run it is if you're wide open +90% of the time, or the electronics (of your choice) is running the ignition advance. Since you're not using the FiTech ignition control, use the vac advance.

I am using very much the same setup as you... FiTech 30002 and a Pertronix III distributor and coil (but on a 427W). Wire the distributor and coil to the ignition switch just as in any standard, non FI car, then the FiTech gets its signal from the coil - (neg) on the blue wire from the 6 pin connector.

[MSumners]

Boydster, thanks I appreciate the verification!
I see there seems to be a deal of debate over ported vs other source. Did you use the ported source?
Thanks again.

[Boydster]

I used ported. Some people like manifold vac, but to me that adds too much timing in at idle. I do disconnect the vac advance and plug when setting base timing.

Did ya fix the spark issue? You should have power to distributor and coil in Run and Crank, simple ignition switch wiring. Fitech and tach should be tapped into the coil - post.

[MSumners]

Thanks Boydster, I figured out the spark issue it was powered wrong to the coil. Its been raining heavy and haven't pulled it out of the garage to test yet though. I anticipate this should fix it.
Thanks for the verification on the vacuum advance I'll get that hooked up.

[MSumners]

First start success! Or maybe now its considered second or third, either way once I wired the coil correctly it fired up immediately and ran perfectly.
Checked every line and connection and the only minimal leak I had was at one of the temp senders which just had to be tightened down a bit more.
All of the gauges worked as they should and the fan kicked on at the right temp.
I can't believe how good the Gas'n pipes sound. The only prior comparison I had was the build school and I found that to be nearly loud enough to make my ears bleed. This is SO much different and more reasonable for daily cruising. I love it. Likely has more to do with the engine setup as well but either way I couldn't be happier.
A big thank you to everyone on the forum that has given me advice and all of the vendors I've used particularly Mike Forte and Mark at Breeze.
Just awesome. I'll have to look at how to post a video today.

[TMartinLVNV]

Congratulations! This is a big step in the build process.

[Mark Eaton]

Mike, first start is AWESOME!!!! We need some video!

Mark

[GTBradley]

Congrats! Making some sound sure makes it real, doesn’t it?

[cv2065]

Nice work Mike! A video is needed!!

[MSumners]

Thanks everyone!
All work and no play lately so no significant time for the build.

It is awesome to hear this engine start up and I couldn't be happier with it. Runs perfect and starts immediately every time. I promise I'll figure figure out how to post the video. I haven't really taken it for any real go cart rides, just up and down the driveway. I have been able to tune in the pedal heights, and at only the crawling minimal speed brakes are working well with no leaks. Before I take it out I want to trim the bottom overhang from the bell housing so I don't have to worry about it. Otherwise at this point all electrical and gauges / lights are working correctly and all the extra connections on the classic gauges appear correct. Again thanks for all the help.

Now that its running and all systems appear to be good I plan to do a first fit with the body the next chance I get. I did talk with J Kleiner a few weeks back and plan to drive it down to him for all the finishing work when he is available. Timing should be around next spring which will hopefully work out great and give me some time to drive it this Fall in gelcoat if all continues to go to plan.

[MSumners]

Not too much time lately but finally managed to pull the body down from its perch, flip it and spray the underside with Raptor bedliner. Similar to the Lizard skin, 99% of the work is masking everything off and taking the tape off after spraying. I did get a bit of overspray on the body but it came off quick with a clay finish bar. All in all the raptor system is pretty slick and I would definitely use it again.

I’m planning to take a 1/4” off the lip that contacts the dash and then do the first trial fit.
Is there any reason not to fit and trim for the louvre with the body off? Seems like it would be easier right now, but of course I might be missing something.

Thanks again all.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130403&d=1592888368

[Ernie67]

If those are the two "tail-ends", something isn't right. The closer one is correct. The one in the back almost looks like an elephant ear from the front. Don't drill yet!

[MSumners]

?..

[MSumners]

Still plugging away but not too much time lately.
I have the body under coated and trimmed a 1/4” off the front cockpit roll prior to doing a first fit.
I keep coming up with other things I ‘need’ to do before the body goes on. Even though I’ll probably have it on and off at least a couple times for fitting.
I added ground wires on the four corners to the chassis from the lights.
Decided now was the time to put in a clutch stop before the piston on the throw out get disengaged.
The short list before trial fitting the body is to replace and test the LED lights, raptor the rear wheelwells and the underside of the trans tunnel cover and maybe some of the interior, run wiring to the front for fog lights.
I think that’s it but I’ll probably come up with something else. I think subconsciously I’m dragging this out so the build won’t be over.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130923&d=1593655529

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131645&d=1594524571

[MSumners]

Looking for somewhere to use the leftover Raptor bedliner I masked off and sprayed the rear wheelwells and trans tunnel cover. This stuff is robust! You definitely want to spray it with good ventilation.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131814&d=1594765587

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131813&d=1594765552

[MSumners]

I’ve been working more with pedal setup and believe I want the clutch to disengage earlier in the pedal throw. I am using Fortes hydraulic clutch setup. Does this typically require a larger master cylinder? I’ve tried small adjustments with the threaded rod for pedal height but it still doesn’t want to disengage until the pedal is nearly bottomed out on the footbox.

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131913&d=1594954419

[edwardb]

I’ve been working more with pedal setup and believe I want the clutch to disengage earlier in the pedal throw. I am using Fortes hydraulic clutch setup. Does this typically require a larger master cylinder? I’ve tried small adjustments with the threaded rod for pedal height but it still doesn’t want to disengage until the pedal is nearly bottomed out on the footbox.

Yes, a larger master cylinder would cause it to need less pedal movement because of more fluid movement. But at the expense of higher pedal effort. What size are you using now?

[MSumners]

Right now it’s a 13/16th. I think I actually found a happy medium currently so before I switch anything out I’m going to drive it as-is for a bit. Right now it’s fully disengaged about an inch above the pedal stop. Once I get the seats in final position I’ll see if I need any other adjustment.

In other news, still working through the LED backfeeding issue. With the incandescent bulbs everything works perfect but once switched back over to the LEDs the brake and turn signals all decide they want to work as the hazard circuit. I added ground wires to the chassis from all the corner ground wires and it actually seems to have made things worse. So I have some more research and tracking down to do here. Certainly could be related to the changes made with the classic instrument gauges somewhere. However, even when the corner lights are acting wonky all the dash lights and in-gauge indicators are working normally. I found some old threads that described the same issue but was not able to follow one out to a solution so I have some messages out to those who experienced it to see if they figured it out.
Once that is sorted out I’ll work on adding the flash to pass circuit. I have a custom slip ring in the works and I’m planning to wire the NRG steering wheel cap shown in the prior picture as the flash to pass. It wasn’t something I initially planned to do but decided I missed that functionality from days cruising the autobahn and couldn’t resist.
One of these days I’ll get a few people together and actually get the body test fitted for the first time.

[edwardb]

Right now it’s a 13/16th. I think I actually found a happy medium currently so before I switch anything out I’m going to drive it as-is for a bit. Right now it’s fully disengaged about an inch above the pedal stop. Once I get the seats in final position I’ll see if I need any other adjustment.

That seems small. On my #8674 20th Anniversary build with the Forte setup, ended up with a Wilwood 1 inch MC and CNC 7/8 inch slave cylinder. At the time, Forte was supply a 1-1/8 MC. But I found that gave too much throw. So went down to the 1 inch and that was perfect. I don't have a stop. I can push it hard against the back wall and not exceed the slave cylinder throw. Not sure how current this information is though. I know the CNC slaves aren't available any longer. So perhaps whatever he's replacing them with is different. So could be a different combination now. FWIW.

[Jim1855]

Mike,

Count me in on the body test fit. Just let me know when.

Jim

[Traveller]

Mike,

I'm just a few miles up the road from you and happy to help with the body test fit as well.

Jason

[MSumners]

Excellent, I’ll text out some options.

[MSumners]

Took this while I was working through this whole backfeeding hazard wonkiness today.
Showing the front turn signals: LED on the left and standard incandescent right. Impressive how much brighter these are.

I switched out all of the bulbs individually and re-tested. Again narrowed down to the passenger side turn signal. With an incandescent bulb in the passenger turn signal and LED everywhere else, everything works normally. Once this one is switched back to LED I get the backfeeding issue, but ONLY when the headlights are off. Meaning that when the headlights are off and i activate a turn signal, all of them go on. With the headlights on, all works normally. Not sure what to make of that yet but again more to research.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132217&d=1595352271

[MSumners]

Over the last few days I've been able to test fit the body. I realized I was going to have to pull it on and off repeatedly so created a new lift support to get the body on and off. On the initial fit the body did have to go forward about a 1/2" to make the door opening flange forward of the latch striker, this actually required trimming the rear corner aluminum a small amount. Once it was trimmed the flange is equally about 1/4" forward of the striker plate. Once that was done I did have to adjust the front 'outriggers' about a 1/2" to even up the hood opening over the hinge mount brackets. Of course I used a high tech tool as shown.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132470&d=1595731834

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132469&d=1595731808

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132472&d=1595731938

[MSumners]

Working on body fitting and all is coming along well.
Right now the door flange on both sides is equally 1/4” in front of the striker plate and I adjusted the outriggers so the hood opening is equally spaced over the hood hinge plate.
Should this still look uneven at the radiator? I’ve read it is historically not perfectly aligned but just verifying I’m not missing anything.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132500&d=1595794373

[Jeff Kleiner]

They’re all like that. Carry on!

Heff

[MSumners]

Perfect thanks Jeff!

[richtersand]

MSumners, I’ve enjoyed following this build. Great work!!

Cheers,
Matt

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132968&d=1596506796

Working on rough fitting the trunk, doors and hood. My goal is to trim just enough to make it functional and leave the final work to the expert (jeff k). I am still hoping to finish up enough to go through inspection and drive some this fall before the weather turns too cold but this may end up being held up with delays at the SOS.

[MSumners]

I decided to add the premium FFR soft top and thus, essentially by default ordered a heater/defroster. I am reading through instructions and planning things out. Is this a spot I can run the return line to?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133039&d=1596598175

[TMartinLVNV]

No No No No No No!!!!!!!!!!!

That's an air passage.

There are two ports on the front of the intake. If you need a 3rd, you must get creative. I got a replacement water neck with a port.

The return line goes into the right side of the water pump. You may have a cap on that spot now.

[egchewy79]

Here ya go133056

[MSumners]

Thanks as always, that’s why I ask, I know just enough to be dangerous sometimes.

—Ok maybe in this case less than that, but dangerous nonetheless

[MSumners]

Is it common to have to trim the top of the windshield side bar? Not something I’ve read about before. I’m getting interference from this top most point. The three lower screws thread in easily but at the top there remains a gap. The drivers side fits very well but appears the passenger side is a hair too long. The gap won’t allow the screws to begin to thread.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133255&d=1596935313

[edwardb]

I've had to re-bend them slightly to get the best fit. But never trimmed. I put the end in a vise, with padding of some kind. Usually soft wood pieces. Then you can bend them pretty easily. I'd be very careful whether bending or trimming. Slight misalignment, if that's what you end up with, is better than chrome peeling off the brass. Which isn't hard to do in my experience.

[Mark Eaton]

Mike,
Be careful with that windshield! Here's something to consider

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?25895-Eaton-s-Mk4-9130-Oregon-Build-quot-Cobra-on-the-Coast-quot&p=396133&viewfull=1#post396133

HTH,
Mark

[MSumners]

Thanks for the tips!

I’m currently caught in some twilight zone where all you can do is take the side bars on and off the windshield a thousand times trying to get the fit perfect.

[MSumners]

After a large but unknown number of adjustments to the side arms, the windshield slid into its home and is bolted in. 27” from the body to the upper mid screw. There is the slightest gap in the lower seal on the drivers side

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134030&d=1598041831

[MSumners]

I assume normal for the trunk latch and license plate light to be so far off center?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134047&d=1598109307

[Jeff Kleiner]

The latch hole is centered; the lamp pad isn't. Never has been and even with the change to raise the pad on recent Mk4s it still isn't. Just think of it as part of the car's charm like the crooked and off center hood, crosseyed headlights, etc. (and hope that your painter knows how to compensate if you're doing stripes).

Jeff

[MSumners]

perfect. That’s why I’m going with the expert!


The latch hole is centered; the lamp pad isn't. Never has been and even with the change to raise the pad on recent Mk4s it still isn't. Just think of it as part of the car's charm like the crooked and off center hood, crosseyed headlights, etc. (and hope that your painter knows how to compensate if you're doing stripes).

Jeff

[MSumners]

Trying to get the doors to line up everywhere is enough to make a man crazy. I certainly appreciate the people that can make these look good. With pulling the rear lower lip of the body out about 3/4 “ the drivers door fits reasonably well. The passenger door I have no idea. I’m afraid to trim anywhere because I can’t see yet how to get it close enough. Time to break and eyeball it again tomorrow.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134081&d=1598151104

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134083&d=1598151526

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134082&d=1598151503

[Mark Eaton]

Yep, those doors will drive you nuts but you'll forget all about them when you're driving. I really like your dash and E-Brake mod!

Mark

[MSumners]

Thanks Mark! I can’t wait to be driving this thing now. I sat in it the other day for the first time with body/doors/dash /wheel in at least near-final position and it just fits like a glove. making a push to get some miles in gel-coat but the weeks are slipping away before winter.

Decided to take a break on the fiberglass and do some sheet metal work making the under dash filler panels. These will be rivnut in place so everything is removable.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134151&d=1598237098

[Railroad]

I used some nearly flush mount rivnuts in some places. Due to the reduced surface contact, I thought some loctite bearing and sleeve retainer would assure the rivnut did not decide to spin at a later date. Only time will tell, whether this was needed or works. I also found there was enough metal in the thicker wall tubes to use a self tapping screw/bolt.
Just throwing out some of my thoughts. Not that you need any, looks like you plan very well. Nice work.

[MSumners]

Good idea on the flush mount rivnuts. I had found something similar on McMaster and I think I’ll trial some. I’m working on finalizing my plans to make the rear dash area easily accessible yet still have it covered and integrated to the partial dash cover I made. Some people browse social media at night, lately I tend to explore the McMaster site. My wife is typically not nearly as impressed with finds such as stud-rivets as I am.

[bldr.rob]

Under dash panels look great! Great idea to cover up everything under there. Gives it a much cleaner look.

[MSumners]

Decided on USB hookup placement.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134474&d=1598806986

[MSumners]

Trying to fit the doors still. I feel like a caveman that was given a trigonometry exam.

[egchewy79]

have you checked out any of Jkliener's threads on the topic? he has some excellent insight on how to position the rocker panel to get the doors to fit ideally.

[MSumners]

have you checked out any of Jkliener's threads on the topic? he has some excellent insight on how to position the rocker panel to get the doors to fit ideally.

Yep thanks for looking out. Ive read through quite a few threads on the fitting. I think I have it about as close as its going to get for the passenger side and now will look at the drivers side. I'm just trying to make sure the position is acceptable before putting the latches on to try to avoid re-drilling them. I actually plan to have Jeff do the bodywork and paint next year when available so really I’m just trying to get it functional, not screw it up and get some miles in. On the passenger side all corners line up well except for the leading edge of the upper to mid front where it is about 3mm too high.

[Jeff Kleiner]

...On the passenger side all corners line up well except for the leading edge of the upper to mid front where it is about 3mm too high.

Don't make yourself crazy trying to make all the corners line up...they won't ;)

Jeff

[MSumners]

Don't make yourself crazy trying to make all the corners line up...they won't ;)

Jeff

That’s all the nudging I needed. Trimmed so slightly, bolted in and time for latches. Then just have to get the pipes back on and a temporary manual wiper to get through inspection and start registration. Hopefully still in time to get some good test miles in this Fall.

[MSumners]

Doors mounted, not perfect but functional and trimmed the minimum amount I could to get them fitted. Got the latches attached and quite pleased with how secure they seem. As some have noted, I had to use two spacers for the latch on the drivers side and none on the passenger. Other small work, drivers seat is in with the breeze setup. I'm still debating high back seats from kirkey or nrg but will likely use the FFR for a bit as its already in and see how I like it. Looked at sidepipe fitting to the pre cut openings and body. Looks like I'll need about 1/2 spacer for the passenger side and a 1.5" wedge for the drivers side and have these on order from Mark. I have a manual wiper and bracket on order. I still have to make a small adjustment to the windshield to see if I can get to exactly 27" and close that gap on the drivers side. Thought it was dead on but re=measured and is slightly off. Once that is wrapped up I'll try to get inspection done.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135204&d=1600442033

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135192&d=1600431643

[Jeff Kleiner]

That door actually looks better than most :cool:

Jeff

[MSumners]

Thanks for the reassurance on the doors!

Some questions regarding the side pipe fitting as it relates to the body openings and front elephant ears. I've been reading the manual and some build logs and I see recommendations for both "trimming to fit" the front elephant ears and also the possibility that the elephant ears will push out the fender some when in place.
1: Should the elephant ears be adjusted to fit into place so that they don't put too much pressure on the body?

As everything stands currently, the passenger side pipe appears it will bolt up with a 1/2" of spacer and be in a good position and essentially centered in the current (untrimmed) side pipe opening. The drivers side is quite a bit off. The main interference currently is with the front edge of the fender (again currently untrimmed). If I were to simply trim the opening to fit I would end up with about a 2.5" gap between the back edge of the pipe and the edge of the fender which seems like too much. I've read about shifting the engine slightly and maybe I'll have to consider that to get a reasonable fit. Anything else I should check before I blaze forward?

Thanks all!

Mike

[MSumners]

What’s the over-under on this wiper being sufficient for initial Michigan inspection prior to installing the real system this winter?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135481&d=1600994647

[MSumners]

I figured out my side pipe spacing and wedging issue to get them aligned.
For the body side-pipe cutout opening, is there a standard clearance from the pipes to the body(front, top, rear) that is recommended?

[edwardb]

What’s the over-under on this wiper being sufficient for initial Michigan inspection prior to installing the real system this winter?

Depends solely on the LEO who does your inspection. In four I've had a couple do a cursory look over the car, and two others that barely looked. Just asked me if everything was there. I've never had an inspection where anything (lights, horns, wipers, whatever) was required to be operated during the inspection. So I would say your chances are pretty good. Now washers, which I don't see present, are a different story. I've had to do some fast talking on that one. Finally installed them on my Coupe. Only to have them not inspected or even noticed. He just checked the box.

[MSumners]

Depends solely on the LEO who does your inspection. In four I've had a couple do a cursory look over the car, and two others that barely looked. Just asked me if everything was there. I've never had an inspection where anything (lights, horns, wipers, whatever) was required to be operated during the inspection. So I would say your chances are pretty good. Now washers, which I don't see present, are a different story. I've had to do some fast talking on that one. Finally installed them on my Coupe. Only to have them not inspected or even noticed. He just checked the box.

Yeah I noticed that washer requirement. I think for now I’m just going to take my chances and see what happens. Time to strap the pipes on and schedule the inspection!

[MSumners]

Belts and ready for laps around the neighborhood
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135566&d=1601168285

[EbourqueIII]

Just found your Build. It is looking great!!!!!!!!!!!! The caveman with a geometry problem remark had me laughing

[MSumners]

Just found your Build. It is looking great!!!!!!!!!!!! The caveman with a geometry problem remark had me laughing

Thanks!
I’ve had a great time with the build and still a lot to do but the list of major items is getting shorter. I think not setting artificial timelines from the get-go is important. Every item is simply going to take as long as it takes.

[MSumners]

Between some recent needed R&R spent climbing the Red in KY I was reading some build threads regarding front body fitting again.
Specifically relating to centering measurements of:
1) the hood opening to the chassis rails - and-
2) the distance of the shock-mount tower to the body wheel-well lip.

I know measuring in general here can possibly drive you nuts but where is this supposed to land? Right now I’m striking a balance between the two. The hood-opening to chassis rails is close but the shock mount to wheel well lip is about 1/4” off with more gap on the drivers side. Just wondering if either is really more noticeable.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Between some recent needed R&R spent climbing the Red in KY I was reading some build threads regarding front body fitting again.
Specifically relating to centering measurements of:
1) the hood opening to the chassis rails - and-
2) the distance of the shock-mount tower to the body wheel-well lip.

I know measuring in general here can possibly drive you nuts but where is this supposed to land? Right now I’m striking a balance between the two. The hood-opening to chassis rails is close but the shock mount to wheel well lip is about 1/4” off with more gap on the drivers side. Just wondering if either is really more noticeable.

Position the body based on measurement from the shock mount to the body wheelwell lip and don't reference anything based on the hood opening to tubes. As you can see in this photo the hood opening isn't centered on the body and is skewed with the front shifted to the driver's side (it also shows that the radiator opening is crooked and the headlights are crosseyed but that's another story ;) ).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131794&d=1544925801

Remember too that if you're measuring 1/4" difference side to side it will only take 1/8" of movement to bring it to zero.

Cheers,
Jeff

[MSumners]

Position the body based on measurement from the shock mount to the body wheelwell lip and don't reference anything based on the hood opening to tubes. As you can see in this photo the hood opening isn't centered on the body and is skewed with the front shifted to the driver's side (it also shows that the radiator opening is crooked and the headlights are crosseyed but that's another story ;) ).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131794&d=1544925801

Remember too that if you're measuring 1/4" difference side to side it will only take 1/8" of movement to bring it to zero.

Cheers,
Jeff


Perfect thank you as always!

[MSumners]

Disassembled and pulled the body to do some re-adjustment (front centering,heater, etc). I have it suspended as shown essentially just with 4 hooks to the wheelwells and a support bar in the cockpit. Think it’s ok to suspend here for a week or two?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136713&d=1603556524

[Jeff Kleiner]

Think it’s ok to suspend here for a week or two?



Absolutely.

Jeff

[MSumners]

Still plugging away 20 minutes at a time here and there. I was able to get the clutch master cylinder switched out for a 1” for a shorter throw disengagement. Haven’t had it back on the road to test yet but the stationary disengagement test seems much improved. I through bolted all of the breeze roll bar connections with 5/16 shoulder bolts after marking the body position when it was on. I have a whole list of other small things to work on including the heater setup, making a small adjustment to the front outriggers to center up the front end, various final electrical work and additions. In short, probably enough to keep me busy for awhile. I think my push to get some miles in this fall is officially over as the snow is flying now and I can’t seem to get the car scheduled for inspection. Now that it’s partially disassembled I’ll shoot for spring.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137012&d=1604254549

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137013&d=1604254606

[MSumners]

Hoping someone might be able to help me avoid buying another $100 paperweight to decorate the garage with. At this point if I had to relocate my desk to the back of a flatbed truck I'm pretty sure I'd have enough wrong-purchase artifacts to keep the whole enchilada secured down. Anyhow, I'm currently working on positioning and installing the heater and keep looking behind the dash at all the wiring and its driving me crazy. As it currently stands I have, in addition to everything else, my master disconnect switch in the middle of the dash and 2-0 wire coming in and returning from it as shown in my prior images. I would like to keep everything as accessible as possible after everything is together and I'm going to spend some time organizing this further. What I'm considering doing is essentially using the master disconnect as a simple switch to activate a relay on the engine bay firewall to gain some space. Seems simple enough as currently everything is wired and working correctly so should just be a matter of re-routing some wires. I've done some reading over the past couple days but still unsure about which specific relay to buy. This is the one I'm looking at. Looking for any guidance on whether this would work and whether I could essentially wire it like a normal box type relay with the current master disconnect as the switch?

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/cole-hersee-continuous-duty-solenoid-200a-spst-normally-open-contacts-one-circuit-off-on-4-terminals-24213-bx/11044678-P

[MSumners]

Finishing up prep for installing the heater/defroster and I’m going to switch out the water neck for one with an extra return port. Aside from the included gasket should this be sealed with anything else?

[TMartinLVNV]

Finishing up prep for installing the heater/defroster and I’m going to switch out the water neck for one with an extra return port. Aside from the included gasket should this be sealed with anything else?

Before you replace your water neck, please read the saga that Fman and I went through and learn from our mistakes. It cost both of us a LOT of time and frustration. If you have the Ford Performance Parts water neck, modify it as in my post. If you don't, get one.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?35778-Fmans-mk4-427-build-Nor-Cal-Cooling-upgrades-Start-up-video-and-first-go-kart!&p=433741&viewfull=1#post433741

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?33080-Terry-in-Las-Vegas-Build-graduated&p=432824&viewfull=1#post432824

[egchewy79]

I put a very thin coating of RTV on both sides of my gasket. no leaks yet. also don't forget to RTV the bottom of the heater (vintage air I assume?) to fill that gap.

[MSumners]

Perfect thanks for the tips!

[MSumners]

Exhibit A:
Photographic evidence of the last known position of my 9/16ths wrench

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138124&d=1606001490

[MSumners]

Still plugging away. Working on the dash panels, under fill area and seat heaters. Might not look like much but for a beginner like me this has been a TON of work making the panels fit together flush. I don’t want to think about how many hours I put in getting the passenger side dash panels to fit perfectly. Everything is Riv-nut together and held with 8-32’s so it’s all easily disassembled. I think all of the heater parts are ready and thought through so it’ll just be a matter of execution. Once that happens I’ll try to get some more go cart time in before considering re-assembly for the final time before paint. Still a lot to do.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139302&d=1607917262

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139305&d=1607917423

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139308&d=1607917725

[Railroad]

Nice DASH!

[Mark Eaton]

I agree your dash looks great, and your trans cover is definitely not going anywhere with all those rivets!

[MSumners]

Thanks gents. Love this project.
True on the rivets those holes are overkill, I’ll likely put in half that many in the end.
On to dash work phase 3 - toning down the dash metal effect.

[MSumners]

I’m working on the heater air duct lines. I’m using the vintage air system from FFR. Anyone see a problem with creating a Y connection in the hose using aluminum tape?

[egchewy79]

Creating a Y connection or connecting a Y?
Are you going to cut a hole in the side of a hose and tape another hose in?

[MSumners]

Creating a Y connection or connecting a Y?
Are you going to cut a hole in the side of a hose and tape another hose in?


I would essentially be cutting a hole in the side to add a limb that would run to the footbox.

[MSumners]

Because of my gauge interference I had to get a bit creative to fit both the heater box and the wiper motor line. I used a bump-out box as many have done to gain more room behind the dash. This however interfered with the wiper line. Tried to come up with a solution that was a bit simpler but in the end after mocking things up quite a few times realized I essentially had to run the wiper through the heater box. Doesn’t look like but but as usual a lot of hours of ‘entertainment’ here. First I finished the box that would space the heater out from the dash and Powder coated it Ford black. Found the appropriate spot on the firewall and cut the hole with an air saw. I had to drill 4 holes through the box and through the heater assembly itself, which meant these had to be sealed up tight. I used solid grommets and punched out holes using a leather punch. I ran a short length of flared 5/16 through the grommets and secured the wiper, that way I can run the rest of the lines with the body on later to line up the wiper boxes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139858&d=1608955008


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139859&d=1608955058

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139860&d=1608955117

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139861&d=1608957246

[MSumners]

About to run the 5/8 heater hoses, it mentions running the send line to the LEFT heater fitting. Does this mean left (driver side) or left as I’m looking at it (passenger side) ?

[egchewy79]

139912
Here's how mine's plumbed. 289 SBF
Heater send coming off intake. Upper nipple on water pump for thermostat bypass. Lower nipple for heater return.

[BadAsp427]

About to run the 5/8 heater hoses, it mentions running the send line to the LEFT heater fitting. Does this mean left (driver side) or left as I’m looking at it (passenger side) ?

I have always been told and followed the rule that anytime you are talking about left or right, it is as you are looking at the vehicle from the rear. So in this case, I would say it would be the fitting on the drivers side.

Having said that, as far as the heater core goes, I really do not think it matters the flow direction through it. Hot water goes in, it gets hot, and air blows through it.

And for what it's worth, mine is plumbed exactly the same as egchewy

[edwardb]

Correct. Left and right is always looking toward the front of the car. This side of the pond, left = driver side, right = passenger side.

[MSumners]

Thanks for the input gentlemen, the picture makes it clear. Somehow I was thinking the send line was opposite what it really is.

Finished up the wiring to my secondary fuse panel and time to re-test everything.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139927&d=1609106928

[MSumners]

Is factory five releasing a motorcycle?

[MSumners]

I finally have all the gear I need to finish up the 5/8 send and return heater lines to the engine and thanks again for the images above.


I'm currently draining some coolant from the lower drain port on the radiator. If I drain enough from this position will it still pour out when I take the water neck off?

[egchewy79]

Your thermostat will be closed when the engine is cool, so I suspect you'd still lose coolant despite draining some from the radiator

[MSumners]

Finished up the wiring to the heater and decided not to use the included switch, I just didn’t like the way the black plastic knob looked and anyway the push-pull cable was too short for where I initially intended to mount it. I ended up using one of the Ron Francis switches on the lower dash that’s a on-off-on. I will lose one fan speed but decided I’m ok with that. I wired up the medium and high speed and ditched the low. I figured if I’m ever using the heat or defrost I’ll likely really be needing it. I initially bought a push pull cable from Wag-aero that looked like it would work but ultimately I didn’t have the depth needed. I found this simple locking push-pull cable at Napa for a good price, it’s rock solid, smooth, and I like the way it looks. Otherwise finishing up the short list before the body goes back on for (hopefully) the final time before paint.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140568&d=1610326995

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140567&d=1610326959

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140569&d=1610327030

[Straversi]

Good luck with that flux capacitor. Heard those are hard to tune properly.
-Steve

[Traveller]

Good luck with that flux capacitor. Heard those are hard to tune properly.
-Steve

I've seen Mike's car, and am pretty sure he used the gen. 2 flux capacitor which is MUCH easier to tune (pretty much plug-and-play). However, I'm not sure if he installed the recommended 88 mph safety lockout. You can blow a lot of fuses running 1.21 gigawatts through that thing below that speed.

Mike - That dash is looking great! Nice find on the pull/push cable.

[MSumners]

If there’s a chance I can go back in time and re-think some of my build decisions it’ll be worth it.


Good luck with that flux capacitor. Heard those are hard to tune properly.
-Steve

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140763&d=1610774337

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140764&d=1610774368

[MSumners]

I think this is plumbed correctly but figured I would post to see if anyone could verify?

After running the lines as above I do have a small leak coming from the water neck. Its on the order of 1 drip every minute. Not sure what I can really do to fix it based on how I initially sealed it but figured I would see if anyone has any recommendations.
To run the heater lines i used the ford water neck and tapped the extra port out to 3/8npt and attached the extra fitting (this does not leak). I cleaned off both the water neck and the attaching point well and applied the permatex sealant in a thin layer to both sides of a new gasket. As instructed attached and put the bolts in finger-tight then let it set for 1 hour before final tightening. I read somewhere maybe 18-20ft /lbs but most people just wing it because its difficult to get an adequate torque wrench in position, and thats exactly what I did. Not sure if there is a better process or sealant recommended?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140824&d=1610925769

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140823&d=1610925743

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140822&d=1610925706

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140821&d=1610925655

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140820&d=1610925635

[egchewy79]

I used black ultra RTV I believe. Where is your fitech temp sensor? In the intake?

[MSumners]

Yep this is where it came installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140847&d=1610930090

[egchewy79]

what do you have threaded into the bung on the PS front of the intake? I have my heater coming off my PS front, my Fitech coming off the DS front as you do, and my water temp sender coming off my water neck. it's probably going to work all the same. good luck with the leak. Napa will rent you a coolant system pressure tester to identify leaks.

[MSumners]

The PS is the temp sender for the gauge. I think I’ll retry with a new felpro gasket and see if I still have trouble.


what do you have threaded into the bung on the PS front of the intake? I have my heater coming off my PS front, my Fitech coming off the DS front as you do, and my water temp sender coming off my water neck. it's probably going to work all the same. good luck with the leak. Napa will rent you a coolant system pressure tester to identify leaks.

[Fman]

I had problems with my water neck leaking as well. The final fix for me was to order a Ford OEM performance water neck using RTV and good Fel Pro gasket. Let it set up over night before trying to run it. There is also a trick when installing the thermostat using a few small dabs of RTV to hold it in place so it does not move when you place the water neck to the intake manifold. If you do not do this it will move around and cause problems with the sealing.

What water neck are you using?

This neck was what I ended up ordering and it solved all the problems.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-racing-thermostat-housing-90-degree-302-351w-1979-1995/p/M8592M90/?year=1983&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqY-mh_Kl7gIVMQPnCh1pFg62EAQYBCABEgJt1vD_BwE

[MSumners]

Thanks for the recs! Yep that’s actually the same water neck I’m using. I just tapped the extra port to 3/8 npt.

[Fman]

Thanks for the recs! Yep that’s actually the same water neck I’m using. I just tapped the extra port to 3/8 npt.

Did you secure the T-stat when installing? RTV on front and back side of gasket and let it sit overnight?

[TMartinLVNV]

Did you secure the T-stat when installing? RTV on front and back side of gasket and let it sit overnight?

I would guess this. I spent sooooo much time on this leak. I was finally able to get sealed up a while ago. When I open the hood, sometimes I still have flashbacks of seeing coolant pooled on top of the water pump on each side :mad:

I did not use RTV on the Fel Pro gasket, but used three dabs to hold the t-stat in place and letting it sit overnight before installing to keep it from slipping out of place.

[MSumners]

I did secure the thermostat and coated both sides of the gasket. However I didn’t let it sit overnight prior to install. I’ll give that a shot on the next round. According to FelPro website using rtv with their gasket can actually make it more difficult to seal so maybe I’ll simply clean it and retry with only a new gasket.

[MSumners]

Update on the water neck leak. It was the felpro gasket for the win. Didn’t use any RTV this time just cleaned everything up again and bolted it back in with a new gasket. I was able to heat cycle it a few times and at least to this point no leak at all. Last leak to fix up is at the hydraulic clutch line to the master cylinder connection. It is the smallest of leaks and doesn’t even form a drop over time but I can feel the brake fluid on the exposed threads and have been tracking it for weeks, I have a new brass wilwood adaptor ordered and I’m optimistic that should do it. Everything at this point mechanical and electrical is working as it should.

[MSumners]

I was able to get the clutch connection leak sealed. Ordered the actual wilwood 3/8-24 to -3 fitting and installed then re-bled the line. Not exactly sure why this one works so much better as it looks just like the one I exchanged it for. Nonetheless it’s switched out and not even a trace of fluid after holding the pedal to the stop for over two minutes.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141442&d=1611629266

[TMartinLVNV]

One of my brake fittings did the same thing. Just a little bit of a leak. I tightened a little bit, no change. I took it apart, inspected, and reassembled. No change. The hell with it! I replaced the fitting and it has held for 5K miles now. IDK, some parts just don't like to fit together.

I'm glad you fixed the water neck leak. It sucks having to dump coolant out the front of your motor each time you try to fix it. Both you and I are experts in water neck removal! Watch your brass 90 degree fitting and make sure that it does not come loose. I was having problems with mine. After a few hundred miles and lots of heat cycles, mine kept coming loose. Also, because of the 90 degree bend, I would have to remove the upper hose in order the turn it past it. I ended up replacing mine with an aluminum fitting that was straight. That way I could easily turn it if needed to again without removing the upper hose. Of course, the needed a new 90 degree bend heater hose....... It never ends :rolleyes:

[TMartinLVNV]

I noticed that you have the vacuum advance port on the distributer capped off. Is that something that is not needed with the FiTech?

[MSumners]

When I was first getting the engine going I had messaged Mike Forte about it and he said to get it running and driving first without it. Glad you reminded me actually I need to look into this some more. I can say at least at my go cart speeds (<25mph) everything runs normally. Can’t say I really understand the vacuum advance too well yet specifically with the Fitech and the way it is setup so I have more reading to do.


I noticed that you have the vacuum advance port on the distributer capped off. Is that something that is not needed with the FiTech?

[TMartinLVNV]

When I was first getting the engine going I had messaged Mike Forte about it and he said to get it running and driving first without it. Glad you reminded me actually I need to look into this some more. I can say at least at my go cart speeds (<25mph) everything runs normally. Can’t say I really understand the vacuum advance too well yet specifically with the Fitech and the way it is setup so I have more reading to do.

I'm not an expert and I did not sleep in a Holiday Inn Express last night. There is a lot contradictory information out there. This is a good article:

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/everything-you-wanted-to-know-about-vacuum-advance-and-ignition-timing/

Go down to the section called "Where Should the Vacuum Canister Be Routed".

Buy about 5 ft of 3/16" vacuum line. This will connect the cone thingy on your distributer to the back of your throttle body. There will be two small ports there. The lower one (probably in the middle) is "manifold vacuum". The slightly higher one (probably on the right side) is "ported vacuum". I have mine connected to the manifold vacuum port. This was suggested to me by Skidd and I did a bit of reading about it afterwards. You can run the line under the throttle body in the valley of the Air Gap intake, and trim to fit. Make sure that the other port is capped off.

Research your FiTech options. I have the Holley Sniper.

[MSumners]

Finished fitting the Cipher belts and the attachment points.
Next up is continuing to work on some panels to decrease the amount of sheer metal in the dash area and glare. Using the weldwood solvent adhesive, 1/8”foam and some left over black leather. Not to any versions I would consider ‘keepers’ yet but getting closer and getting the methods down, probably a few more versions as usual until I land on something final.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142081&d=1612576071

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142082&d=1612576095

[MSumners]

Lots of standing , staring and cutting foam templates.

Not quite yet but getting closer.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142149&d=1612673613

[MSumners]

20-30 minutes of progress daily.
I decided to track down any gaps I missed in sealing the foot boxes. I put my headlamp on flash mode, placed it in the foot boxes and turned the garage lights off. Easily lit up a couple small areas I missed. Now confident they are completely sealed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142388&d=1612931489

[MSumners]

Great day for some go cart action and to test out the new flow valve on the KRC power steering pump. Night and day difference and feels so much better. I was able to mount a small reservoir and pump for a windshield washer jet and also mount the rear wall speakers. I think this is truly the last wiring to do and should be quick.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143934&d=1615163096


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143935&d=1615163120

[MSumners]

I’m working on finishing off the trunk area before the body goes back on and started laying out the carpet sections. The placement of most are obvious but there are a few I just can’t seem to get right.

Are all of the walls of the foot boxes supposed to have carpet sections?

Anyone recognize these two?

Anyone have pictures on a finished car of the upper corner near the rear of the door? Trying to envision what this carpet is going to look like and if the overhang from the body covers the edge.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144375&d=1615696439

[egchewy79]

Yes, footbox walls are covered. Looks like your PS footbox pieces. That notch is for one of the round tubes. The medial footbox piece isn't in the pic. It has a larger oblong notch for the 4"round frame.

edit: I think the bottom piece looks like the piece for the DS outside footbox kick out area.

[MSumners]

2 years ago today and the most recent progress. Still rolling along 30 minutes here and there.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144931&d=1616432296

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144932&d=1616432418

[MSumners]

Leather wrapped and test fit the trans tunnel cover and now working on fitting the Lokar boots. Fits like a glove. The landau top and trim adhesive that gets discussed fairly frequently is amazing for this work and would highly recommend it. After cutting the holes for the shifter and Ebrake I used a small syringe and 18ga needle to re-adhere the edges really well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145012&d=1616504247

[MSumners]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145060&d=1616553457

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145061&d=1616553680

[Blitzboy54]

Your cockpit looks like a WWII era fighter. It’s cool as hell.

[MSumners]

Working on the side louvres and I’m using the HSRF bonded studs for mounting as I saw in Paul’s thread. Works great and as always the forum comes through with an elegant solution. First time using HSRF and I’m glad I really watched where it was going that stuff is hard as rock when it’s cured. Glad I didn’t have to clean much.

4 cycles of ‘fit-mark-remove-trim-clean-check’ and the passenger side is not quite completely done but getting close. The individual fins look like they are 40mm apart and that’s what I used to mark the edges on either end.

(If anyone needs the basic louvres sent with the kit feel free to PM and I’ll send em out)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146202&d=1618366196

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146203&d=1618366223

[Blitzboy54]

On your trans tunnel, did you put anything between the leather and the metal or adheres directly to it?

[MSumners]

I used 1/8” volara sculpting foam for the trans tunnel under the leather. I believe I first saw it in Paul’s thread when he was using it on the dash. In my opinion gives the perfect cushion and appearance. I used it on my initial dash panels as well but I’m thinking of trialing one of them in 1/16”.

https://www.yourautotrim.com/1thscfo.html



On your trans tunnel, did you put anything between the leather and the metal or adheres directly to it?

[Blitzboy54]

Thanks! Your upholstery looks great.

[MSumners]

Still slowly plugging away. I decided awhile back I wanted something to fill the oil cooler space. After realizing I don’t need an actual oil cooler I decided to fab a setup with fog lights similar to many others. I believe a vendor used to sell one but doesn’t anymore.

For those that have used a similar setup, maybe even from the prior vendor, how was it secured?

My current plan is to HSRF four 10-32 thread adhesive studs in place as shown for a mounting platform.
Anyone think this will cause any issues down the road?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147596&d=1620615129

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147597&d=1620615156

[edwardb]

Properly roughed up and bonded with HSRF that should hold OK. FWIW, the Tangent Technology parts from the past had the base bracket directly on the fiberglass and just bolted through. The lights and grille were elevated so they lined up with the opening.

[MSumners]

Thanks again for the info. I ended up direct bolting through the lower lip with some 1/4-20’s and rubber washers. The benefit here was some more adjustability in height with front and rear mounting sides. I think I’ve landed on a final version. No interference on any side and mounted solid. Time to get the body back on and final punch list before sending for paint in about 4-ish weeks.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147886&d=1621119428

[MSumners]

Filling gas tanks from cans with safety spouts could be an Olympic sport

[egchewy79]

Anything larger than a 6gal tank is definitely like a strong man competition trying to hold that weight up

[MSumners]

I’m working on Re-fitting the body today and have it forward so the jams are about 3/16 in front of the catch plate on each side. I’m working on centering the front end from the body wheel well lip to the shock mount and seem to be within 1/16. The rear is still a bit off. Is it common to have to adjust the rear end laterally at all? I have the threaded inserts in place that Jeff K has described and many do and with the all thread in place.

[egchewy79]

from my understanding, there's very little lateral movement in the rear. The QJ holes and the roll bar holes pretty much set the location. There's more movement in the front.

[MSumners]

Thanks for the confirmation. I also haven’t had an official alignment yet so that is likely playing a role.

[egchewy79]

Yes, rear alignment will make a difference

[MSumners]

And this is what a 1/4 20 tap looks like when it snaps in the lower part of the rollbar. Ouch. I spent about 15 minutes looking at how I can get this thing out before I realized I really don’t even need to. It doesn’t go through the back wall and now I just have the sleeve really well attached.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148737&d=1622393221

[MSumners]

Re-assembly in full swing, busy day. Body back on, trunk and doors on, pipe cutouts trimmed, pipe hangers installed,

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148774&d=1622421374

[460.465USMC]

Looking good!

[Jim1855]

Mike, Looks good. You are making great progress. Jim

[MSumners]

Thanks gents.
To those that used the bushing for hood latch support. Did you have to grind down the corners on the extension a bit to get through the bushing? Thought I bought a referenced size but the bushing is a bit small for the ID. Likely a fraction of a mm.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148810&d=1622481816

[MSumners]

Trying to line up the radiator opening, middle of the windshield and midline between the rollbars. I feel like this may be a situation where you get to just choose two.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148961&d=1622681168

[Jeff Kleiner]

These bodies are anything but symmetrical...the hood isn't centered...neither is the windshield...the plate lamp isn't centered and is offset from the handle...the headlights are crosseyed...the oil cooler scoop and radiator opening don't align and neither are perpendicular with sides of the body... This is not a place to be using a high tech tool like a laser. You just have to make it look right even though it isn't! So put away the laser and get a string. Measure between the headlights and mark the center. Install the license plate lamp and mark it's center. Now pull the string between the two and there ya' go! (Obviously the windshield can't be installed when you do this ;) )You have to "fudge it" at the oil cooler scoop and jump the center between the plate lamp and handle (if you just "connect the dots" between the two the stripes will lean like this // when viewed from behind). You may need to adjust a little to hit center between two roll bars. Don't try to position the scoop on the hood until you have the centerline established because the center of the hood is not the center of the car.

Easy peasey :p :D

Jeff

[MSumners]

Jeff, Perfect thanks for the recommendation. I’ll use your method for center. Right now I’m just looking for the midline to measure out from for the hood latches. I’ll wait for the scoop then until the hood position is secure and Re-identify car center.
I’ve read that the hood latches may be mounted with the long axis to the rib for better contact. If that is done will they still be able to orient to the rear and lock?
Thanks again all!

[egchewy79]

I mounted mine oriented side to side, so along the axis of the under hood rib. the square nature of the post allows you to mount the latch in 4-90* orientations.