Patrick's 427 Build

[Pat427]

Wiring Continues

I've spent the past couple days cleaning up the wiring. It started out a rats nest, but I've slowly been able to trim some wires, get rid of others and wrap a lot of the wires in bundles, which has made things look nicer. It's not perfect by any means, but it's an improvement from where I started.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109689&d=1561668304

I was working on getting my oil pressure and water temperature wires connected when a couple questions popped up.

I was puling some wires through the top of the manifold when this tube came out from under the Sniper. Can anyone tell me what this is and where it goes?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109688&d=1561668293

Next, I was trying to figure out where my water temperature wires connect on the engine and I'm coming up empty handed.
I wanna say it's this thing? I'm not sure, because the wires that are coming out of it attach to my Holley Sniper. From there, I don't see any of the wires in the Holley Sniper harness that are labeled for water temp that would connect to the RF water temp wires.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109690&d=1561668917

[Papa]

Wiring Continues

I've spent the past couple days cleaning up the wiring. It started out a rats nest, but I've slowly been able to trim some wires, get rid of others and wrap a lot of the wires in bundles, which has made things look nicer. It's not perfect by any means, but it's an improvement from where I started.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109689&d=1561668304

I was working on getting my oil pressure and water temperature wires connected when a couple questions popped up.

I was puling some wires through the top of the manifold when this tube came out from under the Sniper. Can anyone tell me what this is and where it goes?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109688&d=1561668293

Next, I was trying to figure out where my water temperature wires connect on the engine and I'm coming up empty handed.
I wanna say it's this thing? I'm not sure, because the wires that are coming out of it attach to my Holley Sniper. From there, I don't see any of the wires in the Holley Sniper harness that are labeled for water temp that would connect to the RF water temp wires.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109690&d=1561668917

Pat,

That tubing looks like a piece of vacuum tubing. There should be a vacuum port on the base of the Sniper that you'll want to trace that tube back to one of manifold vacuum ports. That looks like the 3/8" tube, which would be for a brake booster if you have one. If not, you want to remove that tube and put a plug on the port. The smaller tube should go between the EFI and the vacuum advance on your distributor, which looks to be connected in your picture.

For the water temp, the coolant temp sensor you are showing in the picture is likely for the EFI since it's already connected. Look in your gauge box for another sensor to supply the signal for the gauge. Don't try to splice them together as they work off of resistance and you'll get bad data to the EFI and your gauge if you try to put them on the same sensor.

Dave

[Pat427]

Radiator and Wiring


Not too much to report over the past few days. My job has been getting in the way of working on the car recently, but I snuck a few hours in today.

I'm basically finishing up the wiring. The only pending issue has to do with the placement of my water temperature sensor. I think I've figured it out though. Plus I'm waiting for a busbar to arrive from Amazon so I can get the wiring to the solenoid finished. Then I have to figure out the final placement of the rear wires and then I think that will be it for the wiring.

I managed to also mock up my radiator today. I used the Breeze shroud and upper mounting kit. I think I'm going to use the lower mounting kit too, but haven't ordered that yet. I'm waiting to figure out everything that I need to order from Breeze to make my power steering hoses, that way I can just place one order. However, I can't do that yet because I'm waiting for a flow down-regulator from Jegs that will go on the back of my Saginaw style power steering pump which I need in order to be able to finalize what exactly I'll need from Breeze for the hoses.

This is pic of my radiator mocked up. Just wanted to make sure the gaps on the sides of the radiator look appropriate? The red arrows are pointing to a gap that's a little over an inch.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109770&d=1561847270

Thanks,

Pat

[Fixit]

If I recall correctly the build manual suggests you offset the radiator to the driver's side about 5/8 - 3/4 inch.
(I don't remember if this was Coyote specific).

In my case the drain petcock was on the outside face of the PS side-tank of the radiator. Moving it over really helps with access to the petcock, and it made the large hose plumbing fit nicely.

(Do the breeze mount, or fab up one of your own (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27544-The-40-Watt-Garage-Road-Trip-2-One-little-hiccup-but-20-6-mpg!&p=351728&viewfull=1#post351728). Using the FFR nose-tin to support the radiator is really cheezy IMO.)

[Pat427]

Fixit,

My drain petcock is on the outside of the DS side of the radiator. Yours is on the PS. Does this mean I have my radiator upside down? Or is this just how my particular radiator is oriented?

Thanks,

Pat

[cv2065]

If you are using the FFR provided radiator, you should have two petcocks Pat. One on the DS and should be on the outside upper part of the radiator. That is to let excess air out while you are filling it or draining it. There should be another on the lower passenger side of the radiator which is on the inside of the radiator, facing the engine. That is your drain petcock.

If you are going the Breeze route, you'll need the bottom radiator support to determine the placement of the hinge and whether you decide to cut the 3/4" tubing.

I centered my radiator and had no issues with the hoses, but I also have the Boig Cool Tubes, so mileage will vary and you'll want to check.

[Pat427]

If you are using the FFR provided radiator, you should have two petcocks Pat. One on the DS and should be on the outside upper part of the radiator. That is to let excess air out while you are filling it or draining it. There should be another on the lower passenger side of the radiator which is on the inside of the radiator, facing the engine. That is your drain petcock.

If you are going the Breeze route, you'll need the bottom radiator support to determine the placement of the hinge and whether you decide to cut the 3/4" tubing.

I centered my radiator and had no issues with the hoses, but I also have the Boig Cool Tubes, so mileage will vary and you'll want to check.

Thanks cv2065,

Unfortunately, I just mounted my radiator before reading your post. I already cut off those 3/4" tubes, so I really hope the Breeze lower support works out with the radiator in it's current location. Otherwise, I see some re-drilling in my future.

[cv2065]

Thanks cv2065,

Unfortunately, I just mounted my radiator before reading your post. I already cut off those 3/4" tubes, so I really hope the Breeze lower support works out with the radiator in it's current location. Otherwise, I see some re-drilling in my future.

You'll be fine. That will just drop the radiator a little more versus sitting it directly on the 3/4 bar. I had to do the same thing.

[Pat427]

Radiator Connections

Ok, so I'm working on connecting my radiator tubes today and I've managed to rack up a few (4) questions that I wanted to run past the forum.

My kit came with 4 black connectors. Inside each of these connectors are 2 pieces of rubber tube. One is thin and one is thicker. See pic.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109823&d=1561922940

I started with the upper engine connection.

1) I followed the manual and put the thin piece of rubber hose (the piece on the right in the pic above) onto the engine. I then placed the connector over that thin rubber hose. It was tight, but it went together. However, I noticed that I cannot seem to get the inner rubber hose to sit flush with the metal rim on the engine. Hard to explain, so check out the picture.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109826&d=1561922986

Hopefully you can see that the thin inner spacer is not flush with the metal hose connector on the engine. Is this going to be a problem?


2) Next question has to do with the other thicker piece of rubber that was originally on the inside of the connector. This thicker piece (the center piece in the first picture) won't allow the metal radiator tubing to fit over it.https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109824&d=1561922959

Am I supposed to use these thicker pieces? I'm leaning towards no because the metal hose seem to fit nice and tight into the connectors without the need for these.

3) Next, the lower radiator connection site on the engine is bigger than the upper radiator connection site. In fact, it's too big to allow the thin piece of rubber to even fit over it. The black tube connector will barely fit over the metal, so I assuming I don't use the thin rubber piece here, instead it looks as though I just connect the back connector directly on the mounting site.https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109827&d=1561922997

4) Last, my radiator cap doesn't look like the one in the manual. The manual shows there to be a black connector on both sides of the radiator cap. I do not have those two extra black connectors. I assuming I will just insert the metal radiator tubing directly into those black tubes of the radiator cap.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109825&d=1561922973

I know this is a lot, but I was hoping ya'll could clear this up for me.

Thanks,

Pat

[Papa]

Patrick,

Here is another place to let us help you spend your money. Do yourself a favor and get a set of the Boig Cool Tubes and toss those hose multi-piece fittings, filler neck, and a dozen possible coolant leaks.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84669&d=1524442470

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84667&d=1524442454

Dave

[Pat427]

Dave,

I was afraid you were going to say that.

[cv2065]

Patrick,

Here is another place to let us help you spend your money. Do yourself a favor and get a set of the Boig Cool Tubes and toss those hose multi-piece fittings, filler neck, and a dozen possible coolant leaks.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84669&d=1524442470

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84667&d=1524442454

Dave

+1...Very easy to setup

[BadAsp427]

Spend the extra money if you want, but it is not needed.

109876

109877

109878

[Pat427]

Power Steering Pump

So I've started to tackle the issues I'm having with my power steering pump. My engine came with a Saginaw style pump. I have learned from the members of this forum that my Saginaw style pump is too powerful for the steering rack and therefore I will need to put a flow limiter on the pump in order to make it compatible with the steering rack.

I ordered the flow limiter from Jegs and it showed up today. This is what the flow limiter looks like.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109982&d=1562099200

I went to remove the existing part from the back of the pump, but was unable to access the piece given its location. Therefore, I had to completely remove the pump in order to switch out this part. When I removed the existing part, it looks like this. (pic below)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109981&d=1562099160

To me, these two parts looked the exact same. I measured the piece in all dimensions, counted threads, everything, and they appear to be the exact same. I'm not sure what is so special about this part I got from Jegs, but I installed into the pump and reassembled things.

Then I called Mark from Breeze and discussed what I would need to complete my power steering hoses. He was great and walked me through what I would need to make this happen. Hopefully the components I ordered from Breeze will come together and allow me to wrap up this part of the build.

Now, just to vent a little: I was very disappointed in the power steering hoses that came with my kit from Factory Five. They don't seem to fit, are not long enough and overall do not come across as very high quality at all.

I called Factory Five because the hoses were not long enough to reach the pump and the exact response I received was that I needed to, "take the hoses to a hydraulic shop and have them put longer rubber tubes on". Very disappointed with that response, which ultimately steered my to purchase hose components from Breeze.

Thanks,

Pat

[Pat427]

Progress

I made some progress today.

I got my Breeze lower radiator support installed. Fairly straight forward process. Getting the 51 degrees was a challenge as a solo builder, but I managed to get it done. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110535&d=1562876916

Also, I managed to complete my power steering lines. I ended up buying the needed components from Breeze. They want together easily and I think are going to work. Very pleased with the stuff from Breeze.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110536&d=1562876928
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110537&d=1562876941

Also, I got a Lokar throttle cable. I wasn't very confident in what came with the kit, so I upgraded to the Lokar. I didn't get it fully installed yet, because I had a couple of questions:

Is this little set screw really the only thing linking the cable to the L-shaped end assembly? This seems as though it would pull out during a spirited acceleration. Thoughts?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110538&d=1562876953

In addition, the L-shaped end assembly had to go on the outside (toward the drivers side) in order to fit. Otherwise, if I put it on the inner side of the throttle assembly, the L-shaped assembly will hit a bracket on the throttle body when I pull the cable (mimicking acceleration). That L-shaped assembly wants to be on the inner side of the throttle body, because that way the cable will align perfectly with the alignment holes (seen on the bottom of the pic below), but I can't figure out how to avoid the interference with the end assembly hitting the arms of the throttle body.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110539&d=1562876965
As you can see, with the L-shaped assembly on the outside of the throttle body, there is a curve to the cable that I don't like. Any ideas?

[BadAsp427]

Pat,
On your throttle cable, did you order and get the correct cable bracket that you need for that cable? It will bring the cable out away from the base of your carburetor/EFI system so that the cable will pull straight in and out of the sleeve. You DO NOT want to leave it like that. See this: CLICK HERE (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COMNMW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
And yes, when properly installed, that single set screw will hold everything in place. You will/should have a throttle stop on your gas peddle that will actually stop your peddle before you are actually pulling full force with your foot on that cable. Although it would hold it, you don't want to test it with your foot force.

Also, in the one photo you have of your power steering line, (the steel braided one) it looks like it is rubbing against your brake line/bracket. If so, you will want to get some separation there so that you do not end up chaffing a hole through one of them and having either a brake failure or big power steering fluid mess.

From what I can see your Radiator install looks good. Nice work.
Carl

[Papa]

Pat,

Time for me to help you spend a little more money. As Carl mentioned, you want the throttle linkage to be as straight on as possible. I used this bracket with my Holley Sniper and it is perfect!

Fast 304147 EZ-EFI Cable Mount Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BBOLWTM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_N56jDbCGH9XW2

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92496&d=1535931775

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92497&d=1535931783

Dave

[Pat427]

Moving Along

I made a little bit of progress today.

I think I fixed my throttle cable issue. I was tempted to buy the throttle body that Papa recommended in his post above, but I decided to experiment with something before spending any more money.

I took the L-shaped bracket that came with the kit (which is a little shorter) and attached the Lokar cable to it and tightened the set screw like usual. With the kit supplied L-shaped assembly, I was able to attach it to the inside of the throttle body, which allowed the cable to be perfectly straight. I think this will work. If it won't work, please let me know.https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110569&d=1562966803

Next, I was able to get my overflow tank installed. It took a phone call to Factory Five, but ultimately I was able to get things figured out.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110568&d=1562966785

Last, I was wondering if anyone could explain he horn wiring to me. It's a little confusing in the manual.

I have two horn wires. One is a green wire that says HORN and the other is a black wire that says HORN GROUND.

However, in the manual there is a wire that is called, "small ground wire". I'm confused by this. I'm assuming the wire that is being referred to as, "small ground wire" is just the 2 inch piece that I'm supposed to cut off the end of the HORN GROUND wire. Is this correct?

Then, there is also wires referred to as, "jumper wires" that are supposed to be connected to the horns. I'm not sure what these are.

Anyway, I was hoping someone might be able to describe the horn wiring in a more understandable way.

Thank you,

Patrick

[Papa]

Pat,

See if this picture answers your question on the horn wiring:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84675&d=1524442850

Dave

[Pat427]

Dave,

Yes!

This picture is excellent. Thank you. This clears it up for me.

Pat

[Pat427]

Horn

I got my horn wiring done.

Thanks to BadAsp427 for showing me his horn wiring when he visited my build a few weeks ago and to Papa for sending me that picture, these two guys have been lifesavers.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110674&d=1563118321

[Pat427]

Steering Wheel Question?

So I have a question that I need some help with. It has to do with how the steering wheel connects to the steering shaft.

In this first picture is my steering wheel with the hub attached with 6 bolts.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110685&d=1563125960

The next picture shows the end of my steering shaft showing a threaded hole.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110686&d=1563125973

When I put the steering wheel on the shaft and then screw the bolt into the hole, the steering wheel just spins on the steering shaft, but the shaft doesn't turn!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110687&d=1563125984

It doesn't seem like that bolt is doing anything. I don't see where that bolt is doing anything to hold the wheel onto the shaft.

I feel like I'm missing something here.

Any help is appreciated.

Pat

[Papa]

Pat,

Be sure the shaft is aligned with the wheel. It's keyed and is a pretty tight fit. Once you are happy with the shaft to wheel alignment, the bolt will draw the wheel down tighter onto the shaft to the point that it will be very hard to get it off later. Be sure you really want it on right now! It doesn't look like your dash is in place yet, so maybe wait to get it fully tightened up.

Dave

[Pat427]

Pat,

Be sure the shaft is aligned with the wheel. It's keyed and is a pretty tight fit. Once you are happy with the shaft to wheel alignment, the bolt will draw the wheel down tighter onto the shaft to the point that it will be very hard to get it off later. Be sure you really want it on right now! It doesn't look like your dash is in place yet, so maybe wait to get it fully tightened up.

Dave

Dave,

Correct, I wasn't planning on attaching it just yet, I was just tinkering in the garage and came across this question. The issue I foresee is the head of that bolt is more narrow than the hole, therefore when the bolt gets tightened down, it doesn't seem to pull the steering wheel onto the shaft. Instead only the bolt screws down, but the steering wheel stays put.

Does it appear that I have the correct bolt?

[Papa]

Dave,

Correct, I wasn't planning on attaching it just yet, I was just tinkering in the garage and came across this question. The issue I foresee is the head of that bolt is more narrow than the hole, therefore when the bolt gets tightened down, it doesn't seem to pull the steering wheel onto the shaft. Instead only the bolt screws down, but the steering wheel stays put.

Does it appear that I have the correct bolt?

Pat,

The hub should not rotate on the shaft with or without the center bolt in place. The hub should key on the shaft. There should also be a washer between the head of the bolt and the hub.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84588&d=1524422604

[BadAsp427]

Pat, remember when I was there and told you that a 16mm wrench fits the steering rod... it is flat on two sides... the inside of your hub should be flat on two sides as well... But like it was said above, if you put it on and pull it down with the bolt and washer, it WILL be very difficult to pull off... Don't put it on yet.... that is the message being sent... LOL

[Pat427]

Pipes

I installed my side pipes today. I went with the unpolished version because I'm planning on using aftermarket quiet pipes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110828&d=1563416462

I haven't been able to get the innermost bolt installed because it looks like I'll need a 90 degree drill in order to get the hole drilled. My current drill won't fit.

Tomorrow, I'm planning on finishing up my dash (I still have to install my hazard switch) which is the last thing and then I can bolt it to the frame.

After that, I think I'll be ready to take her for a go cart....

[Papa]

Pat,

Do you plan to swap the pipes before the body goes on? The O2 sensor is not going to work in that position with the body on unless you go through the body. You'll need to rotate the position so it angles down under the body. If you're just going to run it as-is for go carting, you'll be okay.

Dave

[Pat427]

Dave,

I'm going to answer your question with a question.

The instructions with Holley Sniper say the O2 sensor is supposed to be mounted at least 15 degrees above horizontal. So when you say to mount the sensor, "under the body", will that still be >15 degrees above horizontal?

On the other hand, I'm just gonna be go-carting for now, no body.

Thanks for continuing to check on my progress. It's much appreciated.

Patrick

[Papa]

Pat,

I know the angle isn't what Holley calls out, but if you use the side pipe collector to mount the O2 sensor, you'll have to compromise. Lots of guys are running the O2 sensor in the collector without issues with the inverted angle.

Dave

[cv2065]

Pat - You might want to mount the body to mount your dash for the go karting. It’s much different than trying to eyeball it.

[Pat427]

Pat,

I know the angle isn't what Holley calls out, but if you use the side pipe collector to mount the O2 sensor, you'll have to compromise. Lots of guys are running the O2 sensor in the collector without issues with the inverted angle.

Dave


Is there another location other than the collector that you would recommend?

[Papa]

Is there another location other than the collector that you would recommend?

With your headers, I think the collector in the side pipe will give you the best results. My headers have a double collector in them with a bung for the O2 sensor.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92494&d=1535931758

[Jeff Kleiner]

When I have done cars with oxygen sensors I have either put them in a header tube or in the collector like this:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93734&d=1537273234

No, they aren't above horizontal. No, they don't conflict with the body. No, it has never caused a problem.

FYI; the reason that they recommend above horizontal is so that they are above any water that collects in the exhaust for longevity, not functionality.

Jeff

[Pat427]

Fuel Gauge Calibration

Does anyone know which Ohm setting I should use for calibration purposes? I have the sender that came with the complete kit.

[Papa]

You want the 16-158 Ohm range. I think it's the 3/4 tank setting in the calibration mode for the gauge.

Edit: It's actually the 7/8 mark.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110985&d=1563722437

[Boydster]

Keep trucking, Patrick. You're kickin ***. ;)

[Pat427]

Go Cart

I took my baby out go carting for the first time today. Everything went well. I was very surprised how smooth the drive was. The power steering was really nice. I didn't get it above 15mph. I found a small leak in my radiator hose, which I was able to tighten.

I had a co-worker come over (who is building a FF GTM) to monitor things. I really got a big boost from this milestone. Big thanks to all you guys on the forum that go me to this point.

Pat

[Papa]

Go Cart

I took my baby out go carting for the first time today. Everything went well. I was very surprised how smooth the drive was. The power steering was really nice. I didn't get it above 15mph. I found a small leak in my radiator hose, which I was able to tighten.

I had a co-worker come over (who is building a FF GTM) to monitor things. I really got a big boost from this milestone. Big thanks to all you guys on the forum that go me to this point.

Pat

Congratulations on a MAJOR milestone!

Dave

[cv2065]

Congrats Pat! Where’s the video or pics?

[Jeff Kleiner]

Congratulations Pat!

Jeff

[BadAsp427]

Hey Pat.... Congratulations... You've been working hard on this and this is a awesome milestone.

[GTBradley]

Nice work Pat. Telling that it’s so fun even under 15mph isn’t it?

[Mark Eaton]

Go Pat go! And I hear you, doing my first Go Cart really revitalized my build and helped wipe away any build fatigue I was experiencing.

[PeteMeindl]

Go Cart

I took my baby out go carting for the first time today. Everything went well. I was very surprised how smooth the drive was. The power steering was really nice. I didn't get it above 15mph. I found a small leak in my radiator hose, which I was able to tighten.

I had a co-worker come over (who is building a FF GTM) to monitor things. I really got a big boost from this milestone. Big thanks to all you guys on the forum that go me to this point.

Pat

Wooohooo!!! - that's awesome, Pat! Congratulations!

[MSumners]

Good work, that thing has to sound awesome!
Hope to be near that point in a couple months!

[Pat427]

Fuel Gauge

I calibrated my fuel gauge as per the Speedhut instructions, which went fine. However, once I set the proper Ohms, the gauge went to "E" like it's supposed to, but it is supposed to then display the current fuel level (I currently have 4 gallons in the tank), but the gauge still is reading "E".

Any thoughts?

[Papa]

Pat,

Just like the fuel pump connection issue you experienced, check the plug connector on the sender. You may not have it fully seated.

[Pat427]

Dave,

I really have that connection seated firmly, but still no luck. The gauge is still reading "E".

[Papa]

I assume you have also checked the sender connection at the gauge? Did your gauge harness come with the plugs or did you have to make your own connections?

[Straversi]

I had similar problems. After checking all the connections I pulled the sending unit assuming I was going to need to replace it. I cycled the float a few time to check the ohms. Ohms were good but noticed that after I manually cycled the float it started moving smoother. Gauge has been reading correctly ever since.

-Steve

[Papa]

See what resistance you get at the gauge. You have 142 Ohms between empty and full starting at 16. If 4 gallons is ~1/3 of a tank, then 142/3 = 47.3. Add 47 to 16 and you get ~63 Ohms at 1/3 of a tank. If you don't get a reasonable reading at the gauge, check it at the tank. If still no reading, bad sender. If you get a reading at the tank, but not at the gauge, bad wiring. If you get a reasonable reading at the gauge, recheck the calibration steps and convince yourself that you actually set the value at the 7/8th full mark.

Check the steps again:

While gauge is powered up, press and hold button down for 10-12 seconds until pointer swings and stops at ‘1/8’ tank then release the button. You are now in calibration mode.
Press and release button to toggle between available resistive ohm options. Pointer will travel to each available setting with quick button press. At desired ohm range press and hold button down for 2 seconds to select that range.
Pointer will then travel to ‘E’ gauge will exit calibration menu and display current fuel level.

Dave

[Pat427]

Doors

I spent most of the day fitting the body and doors.

I hit a wall pretty early in the day. I cannot seem to get the rear Quick Jack body bolts into place. The reason why is because the gas tank is in the way. In order to troubleshoot this, I will have to either lower the gas tank or perform a modification on the bolts. I don't want to lower the tank because I'm working by myself and I have about 5 gallons of gas in the tank. If I lower the tank I foresee a gas spill in my garage since the tank was pretty wobbly even when it was empty. So, I might do the modification to the bolts, which I decided to table for now.

Next, I got my front Quick Jack bolts in place with minimal hassle.

Next, I got the passenger door attached and door latch installed. This all went pretty easy and the door is almost perfectly flush with the body.

Then, I started on the drivers side. This side is giving me a fit.

I cannot seem to get the door to sit flush with the body. Actually... I can get the door to sit flush with the body....the problem is that when the door sits flush with the body, then bolts that hold the door to its hindge do not seat properly. See pics below.

First pic, this is the door sitting nearly flush with the body.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=112073&d=1565290802

Now...this next picture is the inside of the door.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=112074&d=1565290819

As you can see, the lower bolts do not seat through the holes in the hinge. If I push the bottom of the door inward so those bolts go through the hinge, then the top of the door will pull away from the body. I've even tried to manipulate the body itself instead of the door, but no luck. I just can't seem to get it to work.

I'm gonna take a break from it and work on the trunk for now.

Any advice is appreciated.

Pat

[edwardb]

Rear quick jack bolts: That issue is talked about a lot. Have you been watching the forums at all? Common solution is the so-called "Kleiner mod" which is to put couplers on the frame and then mount the rear quick jacks with threaded rods. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?14243-Rear-quick-jack-mounting&highlight=coupler. Going to have to drop the tank enough to install the couplers (which you'd have to do anyway with the bolts, no way around it) but then you're done. You don't have to drop the tank all the way down. Just enough to reach in there and bolt things up. You can use a floor jack with a piece of plywood or whatever to lower the tank. Suggest getting help though. It's a little precarious by yourself. Five gallons isn't a lot, but with it sloshing around can be a little challenging.

Door hinges: Hate to ask the obvious, but you do know those hinges are adjustable, right? Loosen the mounting bolts at the frame and position the hinge out more at the bottom. I can see from your pic there's available adjustment. Sorry if you've already tried that and hopefully not insulting. But just going by what I see in your picture. FYI, you may have gotten a little ahead of yourself on the latch. Generally better to get the doors hinged and positioned before installing the latches.

[Fixit]

Your saga sounds like a tape recording of me and #9365...
The passenger door just about fell onto the car. Minimal fuss, minimal trimming on the edges.
The driver's side is a POS/PITA (this has been confirmed with a few of the pro-painters/body guys here). The upper kick-in where it meets the cowl/dash will be about 1/4" low, the rest of it will fit pretty decent, but the lower rear will be "out". You can pull the rearmost end of the body sill out a bit to get it close.

I'm not doing my own body & paintwork, but I did want it to look good for gel-coat miles. I futzed with the DS door for a LONG time to get it halfway looking good without surgury.

112104 112105

[Pat427]

I managed to get the drivers door looking better. BadAsp427 texted me and informed me the hinges are moveable, which was described by edwardb in his post above. So, I was able to get the door looking fairly good.

I'm getting the trunk on right now.

It's looking like I'm gonna be doing the, "Coupler Mod" for the rear quick jack bolts. Thats on my to-do list for tomorrow.

[Pat427]

Hood

Things in the garage have been moving slow around here. I haven't had too much time to spend in the garage lately. But today I managed to get a few hours to work on the car.


I managed to get my hood scoop installed today.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=112460&d=1566084040

I spent a really long time making sure this was centered. I think I managed to succeed.

Started to work on the drivers side door latch. PITA alert. I couldn't get it to work properly, so I'm going have to wait and to tackle that tomorrow.

[Papa]

Good progress, Pat. Keep pushing through the little issues and before you know it, you'll have it finished.

Dave

[Pat427]

Transmission

Earlier in my build I was having trouble getting my transmission to go into gear. The issue somehow fixed itself without any explanation and I've been able to move through the gears without trouble. However, over the past few drives, the transmission is slowly becoming more difficult to go into gear and today it finally got to the point that the transmission will not go into gear at all.

Is this a situation where the clutch cable is becoming slack and needs tightening or is there a problem with the transmission?

[BadAsp427]

Pat,
I would almost bet money that the adjustment nut on the end of your clutch cable is slowly vibrating and loosening and that you have probably lost the "jam" nut. Thus, your cable is effectively becoming longer. This means that as you press down on your clutch peddle, the clutch fork is NOT disengaging your clutch fully and making it hard and not impossible to get into gear.

You will need to get under there and tighten the nut back up on the cable until it is just at the point of pulling the cable tight and your peddle to the top of its arc.

Here is how I do it... from under the car, pull the cable all the way out... This will be pulling your peddle UP. Once you have it pulled out, spin the crowned nut down into the clutch fork hole until it just touches (be sure the fork is gently pushed toward the front of the car) Then turn it back about 1/4 - 1/2 turn. Then you should have a second regular nut on there that will tighten up and "Jam" up against the crowned nut. Put a wrench on both of them and tighten the jam nut up to the crowned nut. (try not to let the crown nut move from the adjusted position.


If this doesn't make sense, call me when you are under there and I'll try to talk you through it.

[Pat427]

Transmission and More


Well, I know I haven't been on the forum much recently. My wife and I have both taken new jobs and have moved to Texas. The past month has been pretty hectic. Moving the car was a little complicated, but I managed to get the car to Texas without too much hassle. Hopefully I can get back to the build now that we've completed the move to the Lone Star State.


As far as the issue I was having with my transmission...well, BadAsp427 (Carl) was correct. The nuts holding the clutch cable to the clutch fork had loosened, which allowed the clutch cable to effectively become longer. Once I tightened those bolts, the cable was shortened and I was able to get the transmission in gear without trouble.

On another note, I had a question for the forum. When I am go carting around my neighborhood, there seems to be a fairly prominent "lag" in acceleration when I press on the gas.

Basically, when I press the gas pedal, I have to press it all the way to the floor for a second or two before the engine responds by roaring to life. If I press the pedal any less, the engine doesn't seem to rev at all. Do you guys think this is an issue with the cable needing to be tightened?

After taking the car around the block a couple times, the engine will begin to stall on me when I stop. I'm not sure what's going on, but I'm thinking the engine is getting flooded?

[Greg K]

There have been issues with the oval air cleaner and the Sniper system, basically RF interference. Try running without the air cleaner and see what happens.

[Papa]

Check that the blades in the throttle body are opening and closing in response to your throttle pedal and that nothing is binding in the cable.

Does the engine respond if you actuate the throttle linkage by hand?

Have you monitored the handheld to see what it thinks the throttle position is with the pedal to the floor/stop? It should read 85% or more. If it is lower, you need to adjust the linkage to get it into the proper range. Part of the setup is getting the idle set based on the IAC position and TPS reading and should be adjusted only when the engine is above 160 degrees. I recommend setting the idle to around 850 RPM. That should help with the stalling issue. This is all covered in the Sniper Quick Setup Instructions. You really want to follow the steps exactly.

Dave

[Pat427]

Check that the blades in the throttle body are opening and closing in response to your throttle pedal and that nothing is binding in the cable.

Does the engine respond if you actuate the throttle linkage by hand?

Have you monitored the handheld to see what it thinks the throttle position is with the pedal to the floor/stop? It should read 85% or more. If it is lower, you need to adjust the linkage to get it into the proper range. Part of the setup is getting the idle set based on the IAC position and TPS reading and should be adjusted only when the engine is above 160 degrees. I recommend setting the idle to around 850 RPM. That should help with the stalling issue. This is all covered in the Sniper Quick Setup Instructions. You really want to follow the steps exactly.

Dave


Thanks Dave,

My engine and Sniper came already set up by my engine builder (they specifically told me not to mess with the Sniper set up as they had already done it)

Yes, if I actuate the throttle linkage by hand, the engine will roar to life immediately.

I'll try to mess with he throttle cable and see if I can tighten it up a little bit.

[Papa]

Sounds like the cable adjustment is the issue. You want it so that the blades are closed when the pedal is in its rest position, and at least 85% open with the pedal pressed all the way. Your Sniper handheld will give you a readout of the throttle position by following the steps below:

On the HOME SCREEN, select the MONITOR icon, then select the “Monitors” screen. You will see an icon named “Initial Startup”. Select this. With the key on and the engine off, these sensors should read as follows:

- Engine RPM – This gauge should show “Stall!”, once you begin cranking the engine it will show actual engine RPM 
- TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) – Should read 0. Slowly depress the throttle to wide open. It should read between 85 and 100% at wide open throttle. If it does not, please verify your throttle linkage is allowing full travel of the throttle arm. 
- MAP (Manifold Air Pressure Sensor) – Should read from 95-102. At high elevations it could read as low as 75. 
- CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor) – reads engine temperature. 
- IAC Position – See Idle Setting/Throttle Plate Setting section in this manual. 
- Battery – Will read battery voltage. Should be 12.0 volts minimum.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113843&d=1567792410

Dave

[Pat427]

Sounds like the cable adjustment is the issue. You want it so that the blades are closed when the pedal is in its rest position, and at least 85% open with the pedal pressed all the way. Your Sniper handheld will give you a readout of the throttle position by following the steps below:

On the HOME SCREEN, select the MONITOR icon, then select the “Monitors” screen. You will see an icon named “Initial Startup”. Select this. With the key on and the engine off, these sensors should read as follows:

- Engine RPM – This gauge should show “Stall!”, once you begin cranking the engine it will show actual engine RPM 
- TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) – Should read 0. Slowly depress the throttle to wide open. It should read between 85 and 100% at wide open throttle. If it does not, please verify your throttle linkage is allowing full travel of the throttle arm. 
- MAP (Manifold Air Pressure Sensor) – Should read from 95-102. At high elevations it could read as low as 75. 
- CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor) – reads engine temperature. 
- IAC Position – See Idle Setting/Throttle Plate Setting section in this manual. 
- Battery – Will read battery voltage. Should be 12.0 volts minimum.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113843&d=1567792410

Dave



As always Dave, thank you for the detailed info, you have no idea how much I appreciate it!

Cheers,

Pat

[Papa]

As always Dave, thank you for the detailed info, you have no idea how much I appreciate it!

Cheers,

Pat

Any time, Pat.

[Pat427]

Bent Lines

I've been tinkering with my engine and noticed a fuel leak. I was able to see that it was coming from the rear passenger side of the car. I took off my rear passenger tire and inspected the area. Here's a picture of what the area USED to look like.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113913&d=1567954267

The bends in the line were nice and I was very happy with how it looked.

Howver, this is what it looks like now:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113914&d=1567954277

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113915&d=1567954287

Somehow the return line got bent. I have absolutely no idea how or when this happened, but I'm not real happy about it. There is a leak where the hard line mates with the red flexible line.

It looks as though I'm going to have to replace the section of the hard line. I think I'll be able to do this with minimal problems (fingers crossed) as the access to the area is pretty good. I'm just more concerned about how this happened. I'm clueless.

I'll keep ya'll posted.

Pat

[Pat427]

Fuel Lines

Well, my bent fuel line has sent me down a bit of a rabbit hole and I wanted to ask the forum about. I've found a couple of threads that talk about using 3/8th inch supply line instead of the 5/16th lines that comes with the kit. Since I have a 427 engine, does anyone think that I need to make the change to a 3/8th inch supply line?

Additionally, could this be the reason my engine seems to be lagging when I press the gas pedal?

I'd rather make this switch now if it something that needs to be done.

Thanks,
Pat

[ndevor1968]

Hi Patrick. I’m Nick. Just a guest here but aspire to have a kit someday and have loved reading your trials and perseverance. I don’t know if this thread has died or you got outside help from the outstanding members here but I do think 5/16ths is a bit anemic. That said as long as your fuel pressure doesn’t drop off or your fuel pump doesn’t overheat even your fire breathing big block should survive on the 5/16ths. I have a small procharged 350 Chevy in my Camaro and it has a -8 an feed and return line just to be safe. If you wish to future proof 3/8ths change over now without your body final mounted may be the best aside from costing you more unintentional spending. People also use fuel logs or surge tank setups but that’s often to help not overwhelm your fuel pump output ability versus trying to provide fuel through a small hole. It may behove you to look up what cars from the factory like the dodge demons and svt mustangs use for fuel line diameter to make their huge power figures. It may be 5/16ths. Anyway this has run long and I wish you great luck with settling into your move and finding time to wrench. You’re killing it.

[Pat427]

I'm Still Here

So, I've almost finalized my move to Texas. Unfortunately, in all the chaos, I haven't really had any time to work on my build. I'll be able to get back to it soon though.

In the meantime, I had the chance to stop by the Circuit of the Americas today. I live about 30 miles from it. It's pretty cool. I'm looking forward to watching the Formula 1 race there in November.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115180&d=1569806822

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115179&d=1569806811

[Pat427]

Stalling

I took my car out this morning for a drive around the block, which only takes about 30 seconds, but as soon as I circled back around to my house, the car stalled.

I let it stand there for a few minutes and it would start again, but then immediately stall. I did this a few times and it kept stalling. I'm thinking the engine is getting flooded, maybe the fuel/air mixture is off?

Also, when I turn the key to "start" I would usually hear the fuel pump humming for a few seconds and then stop. However, now when I turn the key to the, "start" position, the fuel pump keeps humming and doesn't stop. Could it be possible that I don't have enough fuel in the tank? (FYI I have about 5 gallons in there, although I still haven't been able to get the fuel gauge to work yet)

I have a Holley Sniper EFI. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

Thanks,

Pat

[Mark Eaton]

When mine acts like that I run through the "Set Up Wizard" from the beginning and she starts behaving.

[Pat427]

Stalling part 2

So I added another 1.5 gallons of gas to my fuel tank and things worked fine. The engine started and sounded great. I'm not sure about this situation as I had nearly 5 gallons of fuel in there when it was stalling, yet when I get the tank to about 6.5 gallons, things work fine.

Anyone with any thoughts on this?

[BadAsp427]

I think that you were actually much lower on fuel than you thought... Just my guess... With all the little starts and revs and such that you do, you burn more than you think. The reason your pump continued to run I would guess is that it was starving for fuel and not able to bring the system up to pressure. But if you know for fact there was 5 gal in there, then you may have another problem. But that doesn't sound like the case due to the addition of 1.5 gal and things worked fine.

[Pat427]

Trans Cover and Papa Motivated

I decided to cover the transmission tunnel with leather and a French stitch on the edges. I think it turned out pretty good. It has some padding on it, which will hopefully add a little comfort when resting my elbow on it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115736&d=1570661148

I'm not sure if everyone has seen the pictures of Papa's paint job, but seeing that really motivated me for some reason. Hopefully I can get to that stage soon.

I'm working on taking the body off this weekend and start buttoning up some things as well as look into why the fuel gauge isn't working. Hopefully I can make some head way.

[Papa]

Thanks for the props, Pat. Keep on chipping away at it ... one bite at a time!

Dave

[PrestonT23]

Great job on the build thus far, keep up the good work!

[Pat427]

Steering Shaft Wiggle

So, I've got another question for the forum.

I've noticed that my steering wheel as a little bit of wiggle in it. When I turn my steering wheel, the wheel (and hub..red arrow below) seems to turn a few millimeters before the hub feels like it "catches" the steering shaft.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116069&d=1571162406

I was wondering if anyone else has run into this and if so, what are some good fixes?

I'm worried about this wiggle eventually causing the edges of the shaft to become, "rounded" and thus the hub not really gripping the shaft at all, at which point the steering wheel would just spin on the shaft.

Thanks,

Pat

[BadAsp427]

Hey Pat,
Just to confirm, the hub has two flat sides as does the steering shaft. (remember when I should you how the 16mm wrench was the perfect size to use to turn the shaft) When you are ready to do your "final" install of the hub, you will be tightening down on the bolt (with hard washer) in the center of the hub. As you do that, it will pull the hub down on to the shaft and the fit between the shaft and hub should/will get very tight. But, I would not tighten it down all the way until you are really 100% sure you want to as it will/could be difficult to pull back off without a puller. Once you tighten it down, the slight play you speak of should be gone.

[Pat427]

Fuel Level

I'm still workin on the car..I promise. I've been MIA from the build thread for a while for several different reasons, but suffice it to say that I've officially made my return and hopefully can get this thing finished.

I'm still working on my fuel level issue.

To recap, when I calibrate my Fuel gauge on the dash, the gauge reads "E" even though I had gas in the tank. I follow the gauge calibration process exactly.

I took my fuel level unit out of the tank to inspect it.

Is this what everyones looks like? And I'm assuming this is what it looks like when the tank is empty.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117394&d=1573495049



I'm assuming this is what it looks like when the tank is full.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117395&d=1573495062

Is it just me or does it seem like the black floating bobber wouldn't reach the bottom of the tank when the gas level is really low? It seems like the depth of the tank is greater than the reach of the black float?

Any advice is welcome.

[Papa]

Pat,

Rather than struggle with where the float might be in the tank, get your multimeter out and check the resistance at the empty and full positions. They should read close to 16 and 158 Ohms respectively. If they don't, then the sender could be bad.

Dave

[Pat427]

Dave, I don't know what it is, but I'm starting to think that you and BadAsp427 are somehow my lucky charms. It seems like whenever you two chime in, things magically start working.

So, I went to the garage to test the Ohms like you recommended. I turned on the power to the car and bam! the fuel gauge started reading the proper fuel level. I didn't really do anything different, it just started working.

I'm gonna chalk this up to the Cobra Gods. But again, thank you for the advice. It's always appreciated. FYI your car looks awesome.

[Papa]

Dave, I don't know what it is, but I'm starting to think that you and BadAsp427 are somehow my lucky charms. It seems like whenever you two chime in, things magically start working.

So, I went to the garage to test the Ohms like you recommended. I turned on the power to the car and bam! the fuel gauge started reading the proper fuel level. I didn't really do anything different, it just started working.

I'm gonna chalk this up to the Cobra Gods. But again, thank you for the advice. It's always appreciated. FYI your car looks awesome.

No problem. My guess is it was stuck and by removing it and moving it through it's full range, you fixed it.

Dave

[toadster]

Hey, just thought... if you want to make the drive to Summerville, I'd be happy to let you use my Chassis dolly and body buck. Dolly has a 21" lift.

102067 102068

those are awesome! what patterns did you use to create those? looks perfect!

[Pat427]

That chassis dolly was made by Carl, aka BadAsp427. He's been integral in my success to this point. Touch base with him, I'm sure he can shed some light on those dolly plans.

[Pat427]

Rookie Question

Silly little issue, but I can't seem to figure this out:

How do I get this knob to stay in? It just keeps pulling out.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117467&d=1573591162

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117466&d=1573591151

[BadAsp427]

those are awesome! what patterns did you use to create those? looks perfect!


I built the dolly that you refer to. Here is my thread link for it... there is a link to the plans also in there. NOTE: I added a 4x4 for height and I used 6" lag bolts and Gorilla Wood glue as I assembled it. IMO Very important.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29472-Carl-s-20th-Anniversary-8690-Gel-Coat-Driver-9000-miles&p=336983&viewfull=1#post336983

[edwardb]

That headlight switch shaft/knob should click into place when pushed in. Normally not a problem. Maybe wiggle it a little. Also maybe try pushing/wiggling the release button on the underside of the switch. Normally the shaft is long enough. I'm assuming your dash isn't extra thick and the retaining nut is screwed in adequately. Did by any chance you try to put it in before installing in the dash, e.g. with the retaining nut most of the way in? In the end, possible you have a defective switch. If so, on a new kit Factory Five may give you a new one. Or buy a genuine ACDelco D1588 replacement. About $20 on Amazon and perhaps elsewhere. IMO the branded ACDelco switch is better quality than the reproduction switch in the kit.

[CTHiker52]

Congratulations, good luck, and enjoy.

[Pat427]

edwardb,
I don't think my dash is particularly thick, but then again, I don't really have a good point of reference. I have a layer of closed cellulose foam and then leather covering.
I tried all the things you mentioned in your post, but no luck. I'm thinking of purchasing one off Amazon. Thank you for the part number. I'll keep ya'll posted.

[Railroad]

My FFR supplied headlight switch is a bear to remove or install the knob/shaft. It seems I stumbled upon getting it to latch in, by turning the knob all the way to activate the interior lights, while pushing in. If that does not do it, try pressing the removal button on the switch, while doing the same. good luck,

[Pat427]

I received a new headlight switch from Amazon today. The knob clicked into place and does not pull out. Like edwardb mentioned, the AC Delco part feels high quality.

[mad_dr]

Another win. Nice. They all add up.

[Pat427]

Body Liner

I spent the day applying a protective liner to the underside of the body. I used a product called Herculiner. I got it off Amazon.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117792&d=1574205865

Word to the wise: if you use this product, wear gloves.


This is the finished product.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117791&d=1574205846

I applied a heavy coat around the wheel wells to hopefully add some protection from pebbles flying around down there.

[Greg K]

Who are you planning to use for body and paint?

[Pat427]

Who are you planning to use for body and paint?

Greg,

Not sure yet. I'm leaning towards Kleiner.

[Jeff Kleiner]

...I'm leaning towards Kleiner.

Be happy to do it for you but just be forewarned that I'll read you the riot act for painting that $hi+ all the way out to the edge of the wheelwells :p It is diabolical to get through and remove and will double the time it takes to finish out the wheel openings.

Word to anyone else---do your painters a favor and keep the bed liner/undercoat/whatever at least a couple inches back from all openings.

Jeff

[Pat427]

Be happy to do it for you but just be forewarned that I'll read you the riot act for painting that $hi+ all the way out to the edge of the wheelwells :p It is diabolical to get through and remove and will double the time it takes to finish out the wheel openings.

Word to anyone else---do your painters a favor and keep the bed liner/undercoat/whatever at least a couple inches back from all openings.

Jeff

*palm-to-forehead*

I apologize Jeff. Is there anything I can do in the meantime to make life easier on a painter (who will possibly be you)?

[Jeff Kleiner]

*palm-to-forehead*

I apologize Jeff. Is there anything I can do in the meantime to make life easier on a painter (who will possibly be you)?

Call me sometime.

Jeff

[Pat427]

Call me sometime.

Jeff

Roger that

[Pat427]

Progress

I have a couple days off work, so I had some solid time in the garage today. I made a little bit of progress, which was nice.

First, I took apart the Breeze radiator shroud and my hood hinges in order to have those parts powder coated. I was always going to be bothered by those parts not being powder coated, so I decided to remedy the issue. I was able get them coated to match the previously powder coated parts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118057&d=1574715981


Looks much better IMO.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118056&d=1574715938






Also, I installed the Russ Thompson throttle pedal. Like everything else I purchased from Russ, I'm very pleased with the quality of his products.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118055&d=1574715925
I'll be working on the cosmetics of the footbox later.


I also started on carpeting the trunk today, but ran out of adhesive. Pics to come.

[Pat427]

Part Identification

Can anyone help me identify these parts? I assume they're part of the door frame.
Perhaps someone has a picture of them installed?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118107&d=1574794299

Patrick

[Papa]

Pat,

Those fill the gap along the bottom of the door sills once the body is in it's final position.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101938&d=1549756577

Dave

[Pat427]

Pat,

Those fill the gap along the bottom of the door sills once the body is in it's final position.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101938&d=1549756577

Dave

Perfect! Thank you Dave.

[GTBradley]

Pat, regarding that picture you posted of the gas pedal area, I used the same Thermo Tec and carpeted everything like you did, but recently cut the carpet and Thermo Tec away from where my foot rubs the foot box wall. The thing is, the the panel on the engine side angles in toward your foot and that can cause some annoying interference with the carpet on pedal application. I have small feet and found this to be an issue, so you might think about it. It turns out bare metal is the answer for me and you can’t see it unless you look for it.

[Pat427]

Pat, regarding that picture you posted of the gas pedal area, I used the same Thermo Tec and carpeted everything like you did, but recently cut the carpet and Thermo Tec away from where my foot rubs the foot box wall. The thing is, the the panel on the engine side angles in toward your foot and that can cause some annoying interference with the carpet on pedal application. I have small feet and found this to be an issue, so you might think about it. It turns out bare metal is the answer for me and you can’t see it unless you look for it.

In that case, do you have issues with heat on your foot?

[nick7405]

Trans Cover and Papa Motivated

I decided to cover the transmission tunnel with leather and a French stitch on the edges. I think it turned out pretty good. It has some padding on it, which will hopefully add a little comfort when resting my elbow on it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115736&d=1570661148

I'm not sure if everyone has seen the pictures of Papa's paint job, but seeing that really motivated me for some reason. Hopefully I can get to that stage soon.

I'm working on taking the body off this weekend and start buttoning up some things as well as look into why the fuel gauge isn't working. Hopefully I can make some head way.


That turned out really nice, did you do the stitching and if so can you expound on how you did it a little?

[Pat427]

That turned out really nice, did you do the stitching and if so can you expound on how you did it a little?

nik7405,

Although I do a lot of stitching at my job, I can't take credit for this. I had this done professionally at a local automotive upholstery shop.

[GTBradley]

In that case, do you have issues with heat on your foot?
No, but I haven’t driven any miles in warm weather yet. If I do notice any any heat I plan to put insulation on the engine side opposite the foot area. I doubt that’ll be an issue though as the area is small.

[cv2065]

In that case, do you have issues with heat on your foot?

You can always just trim down the brake, clutch and gas pedals. I have a foot pad on the sidewall sewn into the carpet and after a bit of trimming of the pedals, I can fit my hand in-between the wall and gas pedal, with room to spare.

[Pat427]

More Progress

I finished carpeting the trunk today. I had previously tried laying down the kit provided carpet using a spray on 3M adhesive, but was disappointed in the outcome. This time, I used an after market carpet and the adhesive that edwardb recommend in his thread. Its a Weldwood DAP adhesive. I think it worked great and would recommend it to others. I'm not totally happy with the outcome, as there are a couple places that don't look great, but all in all, I'm happy and will address the imperfections tomorrow.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118450&d=1575414575
Not the best picture, but you get the idea.

The Russ Thompson drop trunk was a little difficult to navigate, but I managed to make it look alright.


Next, I installed a second pulley for my E-brake. I originally had a single pulley, but it wasn't wide enough to accommodate both E-brake cables. Now each cable has its own pulley. I'm happier with this setup.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118405&d=1575327540

Last, a question for the forum. I have some extra wires in my trans tunnel and wanted to double check with everyone to make sure I can cut this stuff out?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118448&d=1575414547
and
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118449&d=1575414556

Thanks for yalls help,

Patrick

[Pat427]

Cockpit

I finished the cockpit today.

I put the seats in just for the picture. Things turned out alright. Its not perfect, but I think it'll work.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118507&d=1575503556

[Papa]

More Progress

I finished carpeting the trunk today. I had previously tried laying down the kit provided carpet using a spray on 3M adhesive, but was disappointed in the outcome. This time, I used an after market carpet and the adhesive that edwardb recommend in his thread. Its a Weldwood DAP adhesive. I think it worked great and would recommend it to others. I'm not totally happy with the outcome, as there are a couple places that don't look great, but all in all, I'm happy and will address the imperfections tomorrow.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118450&d=1575414575
Not the best picture, but you get the idea.

The Russ Thompson drop trunk was a little difficult to navigate, but I managed to make it look alright.


Next, I installed a second pulley for my E-brake. I originally had a single pulley, but it wasn't wide enough to accommodate both E-brake cables. Now each cable has its own pulley. I'm happier with this setup.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118405&d=1575327540

Last, a question for the forum. I have some extra wires in my trans tunnel and wanted to double check with everyone to make sure I can cut this stuff out?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118448&d=1575414547
and
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118449&d=1575414556

Thanks for yalls help,

Patrick

Pat,

Carpet looks very nice - great job! On the wires you showed, the first looks like a relay, but not sure what it would go to as I don't have the same in my harness. The second plug is for the speed sensor if you have a mechanical speedo. You can remove the plug and seal up the wires or just tie it up out of the way in case you ever need it down the road.

Did you plug the speed sensor port on the trans? If not, you need to remove the plastic shipping plug and put a real plug in that spot.

Something like one of these examples:

https://www.amazon.com/Tremec-30-360-1X-Mechanical-Speedo-Plug/dp/B002RPJ3G8/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?keywords=speed+sensor+plug+for+tr emec+tko+600&qid=1575508690&sr=8-1-fkmr0

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/icb-551919?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAz53vBRCpARIsAPPsz8V7fU67G6N32DFm9lfX 8lc9gc7T4AX60en3pFsEjDAX93XUgyKGNEkaAsTTEALw_wcB

Dave

[GTBradley]

I’m guessing it has one. I purchased my Tremec less than a year ago through Forte’s and they had started shipping them with a metal plug in it already.

[Pat427]

Rear Quick Jacks

So I tackled the rear quick jack issue today.

Basically, it's impossible to use the kit supplied bolts for the rear quick jacks unless you lower the fuel tank, which is something I didn't want to do, so I went with the Kleiner modification to fix the issue.

I used a piece of threaded bar (7/16-14), which I cut into pieces that were about 1.5 inches long. I then pushed those pieces through the mounting bracket. I then tightened on a nylock nut to secure the piece of bar in place. I then screwed on the coupler nut from the other side.

The upper one was hard to do because getting the nylock nut onto the threaded bar was very difficult given how tight the space. This took a good amount of time, 3 beers and several four letter words, but I was finally able to get everything tightened down.

Passenger side, lower:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118798&d=1576098733

Passenger side, upper and lower:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118799&d=1576098746

Drivers side, upper and lowers:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118797&d=1576098722

View from the trunk:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118796&d=1576098712


Not the most difficult of tasks, but I feel pretty good that I was able to get this done today.

[Papa]

Rear Quick Jacks

So I tackled the rear quick jack issue today.

Basically, it's impossible to use the kit supplied bolts for the rear quick jacks unless you lower the fuel tank, which is something I didn't want to do, so I went with the Kleiner modification to fix the issue.

I used a piece of threaded bar (7/16-14), which I cut into pieces that were about 1.5 inches long. I then pushed those pieces through the mounting bracket. I then tightened on a nylock nut to secure the piece of bar in place. I then screwed on the coupler nut from the other side.

The upper one was hard to do because getting the nylock nut onto the threaded bar was very difficult given how tight the space. This took a good amount of time, 3 beers and several four letter words, but I was finally able to get everything tightened down.

Passenger side, lower:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118798&d=1576098733

Passenger side, upper and lower:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118799&d=1576098746

Drivers side, upper and lowers:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118797&d=1576098722

View from the trunk:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118796&d=1576098712


Not the most difficult of tasks, but I feel pretty good that I was able to get this done today.

That's exactly how I did mine.

[Pat427]

That's exactly how I did mine.

Yea, I had your build thread post pulled up on my computer while working today.

[Pat427]

Hood Latches

Not a lot of updates today, but I did manage to get a few nagging things done.

I installed my hood latches. Pretty straight forward installation.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118893&d=1576269476

I also ordered the seat mounting system from Breeze.

Then I wrapped up the day by installing my dash support aluminum. I kinda forgot about that until now, but was able to get it into place without issue.

I feel like I'm starting to close in on wrapping this thing up. I still have to install the roll bar and the side louvers and then put the body back on and wire up the lights. Other than that, I feel like I'm getting near the end. I'll keep ya'll posted.

Pat

[Pat427]

Turn Signal Switch

Does anyone know the brand of toggle switch used for the turn signal? One of the male prongs on the back of my switch broke off and I need to replace it.

Thanks,

Pat

[egchewy79]

I did a search and they're hard to source, at least from what I was able to find. are you needing an on-off-on toggle? I'm planning on using a momentary (on)-off-(on) toggle with the signal dynamics self cancelling unit, so you could have mine if you'd like.

[Papa]

Turn Signal Switch

Does anyone know the brand of toggle switch used for the turn signal? One of the male prongs on the back of my switch broke off and I need to replace it.

Thanks,

Pat

FFR will sell you one for about $5.00 + S&H.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Hood Latches

Not a lot of updates today, but I did manage to get a few nagging things done.

I installed my hood latches. Pretty straight forward installation.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118893&d=1576269476

Pat's photo made me think of a couple things that might be useful for those of you playing along at home.

1. I recommend that you turn the hood latch bases 90 degrees so that they are oriented side to side rather than front to back. When they are front to back there is a good chance that one or more of the screws will break through the side of the underside rib unless you are 100% spot on (and lucky!) with their placement.

2. I also suggest holding off on mounting the hood scoop until the body is on so that it can be located based on the centerline of the entire car and not the center of the hood. If you measure and place the scoop using only the hood it's not going to be straight or true because the hood itself is not in the center nor is it straight with the body. Want proof---

https://scontent.fagc3-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/57331402_1991762070946491_5326812667510259712_n.jp g?_nc_cat=103&_nc_oc=AQlX97LRB2fUhPSEHSNE_OaRJVwp4qKiskXyMGuNeZc 9XNyVJbcuKljwutdzMKcKrVI&_nc_ht=scontent.fagc3-2.fna&oh=68d2855e71c08aa13543d0535e84f1aa&oe=5EAFE935

Just a couple things that may save you &/or your body guy some grief down the road.

Jeff

[MSumners]

Won’t be using mine and will send one out if you want it. PM me with address if you want it.

[Pat427]

Pat's photo made me think of a couple things that might be useful for those of you playing along at home.

1. I recommend that you turn the hood latch bases 90 degrees so that they are oriented side to side rather than front to back. When they are front to back there is a good chance that one or more of the screws will break through the side of the underside rib unless you are 100% spot on (and lucky!) with their placement.

2. I also suggest holding off on mounting the hood scoop until the body is on so that it can be located based on the centerline of the entire car and not the center of the hood. If you measure and place the scoop using only the hood it's not going to be straight or true because the hood itself is not in the center nor is it straight with the body. Want proof---

https://scontent.fagc3-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/57331402_1991762070946491_5326812667510259712_n.jp g?_nc_cat=103&_nc_oc=AQlX97LRB2fUhPSEHSNE_OaRJVwp4qKiskXyMGuNeZc 9XNyVJbcuKljwutdzMKcKrVI&_nc_ht=scontent.fagc3-2.fna&oh=68d2855e71c08aa13543d0535e84f1aa&oe=5EAFE935

Just a couple things that may save you &/or your body guy some grief down the road.

Jeff


Jeff,

Thank you for the advice. I think I managed to avoid both of those pitfalls. The bolts that hold the latch hardware do not break through the side of the under rib of the hood. Also, I aligned my hood scoop with the body, so I think its centered. Plus, when I cut the hood, I cut the hole slightly smaller than the size of the scoop, that way if the hood scoop needs to be moved slightly to make it straight, then that would be easily done since there is some "extra"hood still remaining.

[Pat427]

Set Back?

Welp, I think I've hit a bit of a setback today.

I was looking over my car today and noticed there is different amount of wear on the rotors. Basically, when the rotors were new, they were painted black. However, I noticed the black paint on the front rotor has been stripped away by the brake pad from my little drives around the neighborhood.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118984&d=1576443758

However, the back rotors still had a lot of black paint on them, which made me think the rear brake pads were not working correctly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118985&d=1576443773

Therefore, I decided to bleed my rear brakes again. When I started to bleed the rear brakes, I noticed there was a hissing/ fluid whooshing sound coming from the rear master cylinder.

There is no fluid leak anywhere in the system and all my connections appear to be really tight. When I bleed the caliper, only fluid squirts out, but no air bubbles come out. When I pump the brake pedal, the pedal will start to feel firm, but when I let the pedal out, there will be that sound again and then the pedal will feel loose and floppy and go all the way to the floor without much resistance.

After taking to BadAsp427, I'm concerned there is a faulty master cylinder. If anyone wants to hear the sound I'm talking about, please Private Message me your cell number and I can text you a video I took that has the sound I'm talking about.

I'd greatly appreciate any help on this one.

Thanks,
Patrick

[Papa]

Pat,

It sounds to me like you have air in the MC. Is it possible that when your were re-bleeding the calipers that the reservoir got low and sucked air in? The uneven front-to-back wear on the "paint" on the rotors isn't an issue. There is a lot less braking force on the rears and they will take longer to rear the coating off the rotors.

I'd recommend re-bleeding the MCs and then redo the calipers RR, LR, RF, LF. Be sure the reservoir doesn't run low during the process.

Dave

[Pat427]

Master Cylinder and More

I called Factory Five about the master cylinder for my rear brakes. They agreed that it sounded like there was a leak somewhere and promptly sent me a new one. I received the new master cylinder and was able to install it without too much fuss.

I bled the system in an "open fashion, which I saw on a Youtube video and it worked well. My brake pedal is now pretty darn firm. When I press the brake pedal, there is about an inch or two of easy movement, but then the pedal effort becomes very stiff, which I think is correct.

Also, a big thank you to everyone that offered to send me a switch for my turn signal and to MSummers for sending me one. The generosity on this forum is awesome.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119728&d=1577810730

I also received my seat mounting system from Breeze. Another great product and one that I'm already glad I purchased even though I haven't really driven my car yet. I haven't bolted the seats into the floor yet, instead I just mounted the seats to the brackets for now. The instructions say to have the body on first before final mounting of the seats, which is my next project.

Oh, and I also re-did the carpet in the cockpit. There were some imperfections that would have always irritated me, so I pulled all the carpet out (HUUGE PITA) and laid down new carpet that I purchased from Factory Five. FYI, they sell replacement carpet in 1-yard sheets. It's not cheap, but it's good stuff. I'm much happier with the final product.

[mad_dr]

I don’t want to hijack Pat’s build thread but if Jeff K happens to check back here I’d love some elaboration on his post #373 here. I can’t tell if my eyes are playing tricks on me or not and haven’t been around here long enough to have seen other comments about crooked/off-centre hoods and scoops but the pic you posted looks very drunk to me. Am I imagining that? The fore-aft distance from the leading edge of the radiator opening to the brake duct openings looks to be much greater on the driver’s side than the passenger side. Presumably this is just an indication that the car in the photo is not completely head-on to the camera but is rotated slightly? I can’t imagine why it would be skewed like that in reality.

The leading edge of the hood also looks canted towards the driver’s side but, again, I’m not sure whether that’s true or whether it’s just a not-quite-head-on shot exaggerating things. Anyway - would be great to hear some of the typical things you see over and over again with the body. Cheers

[Pat427]

Spacers

I installed transmission spacers that I ordered from Forte. I'm really glad I did this. At first, I had just put washers between the A-frame and the hard rubber mount on the bottom of the transmission, which was probably not a great idea and a little dicey as the washers weren't actually bolted in place, instead it was just the weight of the transmission keeping them in place.

I installed the Forte spacers with minimal hassle and the transmission feels much more secure.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120234&d=1578422431

[Jeff Kleiner]

I don’t want to hijack Pat’s build thread but if Jeff K happens to check back here I’d love some elaboration on his post #373 here. I can’t tell if my eyes are playing tricks on me or not and haven’t been around here long enough to have seen other comments about crooked/off-centre hoods and scoops but the pic you posted looks very drunk to me. Am I imagining that? The fore-aft distance from the leading edge of the radiator opening to the brake duct openings looks to be much greater on the driver’s side than the passenger side. Presumably this is just an indication that the car in the photo is not completely head-on to the camera but is rotated slightly? I can’t imagine why it would be skewed like that in reality.

The leading edge of the hood also looks canted towards the driver’s side but, again, I’m not sure whether that’s true or whether it’s just a not-quite-head-on shot exaggerating things. Anyway - would be great to hear some of the typical things you see over and over again with the body. Cheers

You're seeing the exact point I was making---the bodies are not symmetrical and vary side to side and the hood is skewed (among other things---like the headlights being crosseyed with one farther forward than the other, etc.) which is why I recommended against placing the scoop only taking the hood into consideration because that may not be correct once you see the big picture.

Here's a photo that I took a couple of weeks ago that quite by accident happens to show that the hood opening is not dead center.

https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/p720x720/78301233_2421020284687332_6414758214646104064_o.jp g?_nc_cat=110&_nc_oc=AQkl0yCPJ7AdGInt4JSUSbm3XsCRXYs2TAOZKfELi5X uBEY6UxZH-chtKTiW8nAgdpw&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-2.xx&oh=20f323d83da40de7dc938e4d053f9b2c&oe=5E65953B

Things are wonky on the back end too but we'll save that for another time ;)

Jeff

[Pat427]

America

I decided to add an American flag to the engine compartment. I covered the footbox access panel with an aviation decal. I think it looks pretty good.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120240&d=1578434702

[Pat427]

Cowl

I started to install the Breeze engine cowl today. I took a page out of Papa's build and decided to use nutserts instead of the pop rivets that come with the kit. I figure this would make the cowl easily removable in case I had to work on the radiator for any reason. I think it's going to make the engine compartment look clean.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120301&d=1578529833
I'm not completely done yet, but should be able to wrap it up tomorrow.

[Papa]

Looking good, Pat. You're getting close now!

Dave

[Pat427]

Side Louvers and More

I've had the past four days off of work and had big plans to possibly finish the build. Well, that plan quickly came to a halt. I learned that in order for a car to pass inspection in Texas, it has to have windshield wipers. When I started my build, I was not planning on installing windshield wipers, but it looks like I'm going to have to install them.

I ordered the windshield wiper kit from Factory Five on Monday of this week and have yet to receive the kit. I called FF today to inquire on the status of my order. As I was talking to the lady from FF, it was clear there was some mix up with the order. I'm not sure what was going on, but about 10 minutes after hanging up, I got an email from FF stating the package was ready for shipping.

I was planning on putting the body back on during this 4 day window, but elected not to until I can install the wiper kit. So basically, I wasted 4 days not making a lot of progress, which has been annoying. Oh well.

Today, prepped my side louvers. I bolted the 90 degree brackets to the louvers using 8-32 bolts and screws.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120416&d=1578692746


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120415&d=1578692736

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120414&d=1578692726
I got a lot of help from my shop assistant in the background

I'm waiting for the mounting tabs to get delivered from McMaster. I'm also waiting for the HSRF to get delivered from Amazon. Thanks to BadAsp427 and Edwardb for the detailed write-ups on how to install these things. I read both of those posts several times. Hopefully once I get the rest of my supplies I can get the louvers installed.

Then it'll be windshield wiper kit and then hopefully I can get the body back on and get on with the rest of the build.


Question: Should I drill the holes in the frame for the aluminum panels that surround the radiator before putting the body on, or can these holes be drilled when the body is on?

[Papa]

Pat,

A couple of tips on the louvres. First, the angle brackets will need to sit back from the edge of the louvre enough to account for the height of the mounting studs, unless you have a different mounting method planned. It's maybe 1/16" of an inch or so. You can just oblong the holes in the bracket for the mounting bolts you used to get some adjustability. If you don't account for the stud thickness, your louvres won't sit flush against the body.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92892&d=1536443954

The other tip I have for you is simple. Flip those mounting screws over so that the button head is what you see rather than the nut.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94852&d=1539032879

Dave

[Pat427]

Dave,

Thank you for the tips. I'll be making those adjustments.


Pat,

A couple of tips on the louvres. First, the angle brackets will need to sit back from the edge of the louvre enough to account for the height of the mounting studs, unless you have a different mounting method planned. It's maybe 1/16" of an inch or so. You can just oblong the holes in the bracket for the mounting bolts you used to get some adjustability. If you don't account for the stud thickness, your louvres won't sit flush against the body.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92892&d=1536443954

The other tip I have for you is simple. Flip those mounting screws over so that the button head is what you see rather than the nut.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94852&d=1539032879

Dave

[Railroad]

Why don't you put the screw and nuts in from the other side. Allen head button screw shows instead of the nut.
Looks good. I am at the point I need to install mine. Thanks for the tip on the set back of the bracket.

[Pat427]

Louvers 2.0

I had a few hours to tinker in the garage today. I worked on prepping the side louvers for installation. I listened to the forum and flipped the button head screws so the heads of the screws are visible.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120729&d=1579140754


Also, I oblonged the holes in the bracket with a Dremel. This allows me to move the bracket to make room for the thickness of the mounting tabs, which will ensure the louvers sit flush against the body.

For the time being, I put a bunch of washers between the mouting tab and bracket. These washers are just for keeping the bracket lifted away from the body when applying the HSRF. This way the bracket and louver won't get covered in HSRF.



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120730&d=1579140767



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120728&d=1579140721Tomorrow, I'll get the mounting tabs bonded to the inside of the body. Then I'm going to remove those washers and remount the louvers and I'm hopefully the louvers will be flush with the body

[Pat427]

Louvers Cont.

I managed to get the mounting tabs attached to the body. I used 3M HSRF. Not cheap, but that is some serious stuff. Once it hardened, those mounting tabs were rock solid.

This is a picture of when the HSRF was hardening. After it set up, I took off the louver and removed the washers. This took a little work with the Dremel, but I got it all cleaned up and it appears the louvers are lined up and flush with the body.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120778&d=1579216388
(It looks like there is a gap between the louver and the upper opening of the body, but there isn't, it's just the angle of the photo)

Now I have to grind the opening in the body to match the size and slant of the louvers.

[Pat427]

Updates

I had a few hours in the garage today and knocked out a couple of things.

First, I finished the side louver body openings. I basically followed the instructions from EdwardBs and BadAsp427's build threads. It took a little longer than I expected to grind out the openings using my Dremel, but I was able to get things looking pretty good. They're not perfect, but it looks better than before.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121049&d=1579634493

Next, I was able to mount the windshield wiper motor to the firewall. It was pretty straightforward. I had a little interference from the busbar that was mounted on the cockpit side of the firewall, but I was able to get things tightened down without too much fuss.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121050&d=1579634508

Tomorrow I'll be finishing the windshield wiper install.

[Pat427]

Fuel Line Replacement Part 1:

I had originally used the kit supplied hard lines for my fuel send and return lines. (5/16th and 1/4in). However, it was brought to my attention that my 427 engine and Holley Sniper would require larger lines in order to function properly. Therefore, I'm going to replace my fuel lines with 3/8th inch line.

Well, this is easier said than done.

The biggest issue is the fact I had to replace my fuel pump hanger. Currently, I have the hanger that came with my kit, which has send and return ports that are 5/16 and 1/4in. So I went ahead and purchased this hanger from Pro-M Racing https://www.promracing.com/high-flow-fuel-pump-hanger-for-1986-1997-mustangs.html.

This was recommended to me by BadAsp427 way earlier in my build and recently by Papa. Thank you both for the recommendation.

I received the hanger last night and installed it today. The biggest issue with this hanger is the fact you have to modify the hole in the fuel tank. Here is a picture from the instructions that come with the hanger:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121125&d=1579715442

The hard part about this modification was preventing any metal chips from falling into the tank. I was able to remove my old hanger without too much hassle (although the white filter on the bottom of the pump fell off into the tank and I had to retrieve it with a coat hanger).

I then took a couple pieces of Gorilla Tape and covered the hole in the tank from the inside with the sticky part of the tape pointed upwards. Kinda tricky to do this. I then used my Dremel to make the modification. The metal shavings all fell onto the sticky tape and I was then able to remove the tape without letting the metal shavings fall into the tank.

I then took apart my old hanger and moved the fuel pump (Walbro 255) onto the new hanger, attached the wires and used heat shrink to make good connections. I was then able to get the new pump/hanger assembly into the tank. I think everything went alright, but I'm always nervous about whether or not any of those wires came loose as I was wiggling it though the hole in the tank.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121126&d=1579715454

Then I proceeded to remove my hard fuel lines. Not too much to talk about here, except the spilling of gas in my garage is probably going to upset my wife when she smells it. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121127&d=1579715467

Next, I have to order new fuel hose and AN fittings. I'm going with flexible hose this time. I know there has been chatter about this topic, but I just don't have the energy to mess around with flaring and bending tube. I'm going with PTFE lined 3/8th line this time.

I'll keep yall posted.

[TMartinLVNV]

You have already done the work, so this is kinda a moot point. But, did you try to install the Pro-M without modifying the fuel tank flange? I was just BARELY able to get mine in without filing anything down. I had to line up the bends in the lines of the hanger with the notches in the flange and it worked.

You may have experience with braided lines and know this, but this was the first time I have ever installed AN fittings. I found that cutting the line with battery cable cutters made the job super easy. Definitely easier than taping the line to prevent fraying and cutting with a saw. I cut the line, and immediately installed the fitting with no fraying problems at all. When I first tried the saw method, it was a total PITA.

[Pat427]

Terry,

I might take you up on that idea of using battery cable cutters. I messed around with AN fittings earlier in my build and almost lost my mind with getting my fingers poked with the sharp frayed ends of the tube.


You have already done the work, so this is kinda a moot point. But, did you try to install the Pro-M without modifying the fuel tank flange? I was just BARELY able to get mine in without filing anything down. I had to line up the bends in the lines of the hanger with the notches in the flange and it worked.

You may have experience with braided lines and know this, but this was the first time I have ever installed AN fittings. I found that cutting the line with battery cable cutters made the job super easy. Definitely easier than taping the line to prevent fraying and cutting with a saw. I cut the line, and immediately installed the fitting with no fraying problems at all. When I first tried the saw method, it was a total PITA.

[TMartinLVNV]

Terry,

I might take you up on that idea of using battery cable cutters. I messed around with AN fittings earlier in my build and almost lost my mind with getting my fingers poked with the sharp frayed ends of the tube.

This is how my buddy that owns a hydraulic hose shop showed me how to do it:
-After cutting, create a slight bevel on the inner rubber hose, basically take off the 90 angle. I have a deburring tool for reloading ammo that worked perfectly. Insert the cone end of the deburring tool and take off just a smidge.
-Put a light coating of oil on the metal male end of the AN fitting and press into the hose. I was able to do this using just my hands, no vice, no clamp necessary. Give it a hard push and twist. I used gun oil as that is what happened to be next to me at the time. One drop and spread it around with my finger.
-Tighten down the locking nut. Nice and snug. Not overly tight. The seal is created by the male tube on the female hose. Not the nut.
-Use AN wrenches if you want it to look pretty.

This was my first time using AN fittings. I have 7 on my fuel lines and none leaked at all. My only fuel leak was at the filter and it wasn't an AN fitting.

[Blue Viking]

Fuel Line Replacement Part 1:

I had originally used the kit supplied hard lines for my fuel send and return lines. (5/16th and 1/4in). However, it was brought to my attention that my 427 engine and Holley Sniper would require larger lines in order to function properly. Therefore, I'm going to replace my fuel lines with 3/8th inch line.

Well, this is easier said than done.

The biggest issue is the fact I had to replace my fuel pump hanger. Currently, I have the hanger that came with my kit, which has send and return ports that are 5/16 and 1/4in. So I went ahead and purchased this hanger from Pro-M Racing https://www.promracing.com/high-flow-fuel-pump-hanger-for-1986-1997-mustangs.html.

This was recommended to me by BadAsp427 way earlier in my build and recently by Papa. Thank you both for the recommendation.

I received the hanger last night and installed it today. The biggest issue with this hanger is the fact you have to modify the hole in the fuel tank. Here is a picture from the instructions that come with the hanger:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121125&d=1579715442

The hard part about this modification was preventing any metal chips from falling into the tank. I was able to remove my old hanger without too much hassle (although the white filter on the bottom of the pump fell off into the tank and I had to retrieve it with a coat hanger).

I then took a couple pieces of Gorilla Tape and covered the hole in the tank from the inside with the sticky part of the tape pointed upwards. Kinda tricky to do this. I then used my Dremel to make the modification. The metal shavings all fell onto the sticky tape and I was then able to remove the tape without letting the metal shavings fall into the tank.

I then took apart my old hanger and moved the fuel pump (Walbro 255) onto the new hanger, attached the wires and used heat shrink to make good connections. I was then able to get the new pump/hanger assembly into the tank. I think everything went alright, but I'm always nervous about whether or not any of those wires came loose as I was wiggling it though the hole in the tank.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121126&d=1579715454

Then I proceeded to remove my hard fuel lines. Not too much to talk about here, except the spilling of gas in my garage is probably going to upset my wife when she smells it. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121127&d=1579715467

Next, I have to order new fuel hose and AN fittings. I'm going with flexible hose this time. I know there has been chatter about this topic, but I just don't have the energy to mess around with flaring and bending tube. I'm going with PTFE lined 3/8th line this time.

I'll keep yall posted.

It looks to me like you haven't fully seated the locking ring on the Pro-M hanger.

[Pat427]

Shifter Issue

A little annoyed today.

I have no idea how this happened, but basically the hole in the transmission tunnel cover was causing interference with the gear shifter when I put it into 3rd and 5th gear. The shifter handle would smash into the rim of the tunnel cover, which was unacceptable to me.

Since I had already had my tunnel cover professionally upholstered, I really didn't want to rip off the leather and move the hole forward. So instead I decided to buy a different shifter handle. I got this from **********. I figured the vertical base of this shifter would allow the handle to avoid interference with the tunnel.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121317&d=1579881750
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121318&d=1579881761

I had to drill the holes in the new shifter handle to 3/8th inch, which wasn't a big deal. However, the bolts that came with the kit are not long enough to pass through the base of the handle AND where it mounts on the transmission.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121319&d=1579881771

Easy fix right?

All I have to do is get longer bolts, right? Well, just my luck, but I went to Lowes, Home Depot and Ace Hardware and none of them have the needed bolts.

I'm looking for 3/8x24 button head bolts that are 1.5 inches long. (1.25 in would probably work too).

Anyone out there know of a place where these can be sourced?

[Papa]

Pat,

I'll send you a couple.

Dave

[Pat427]

Wow! Thanks Dave!


Pat,

I'll send you a couple.

Dave

[Papa]

No problem, Pat. They're in the mail.

Dave

[Pat427]

Clutch Adjuster

Not much to report today. I installed my clutch adjuster today. Went together fairly easily. I drilled and tapped 10-24 holes in the footbox and then screwed on the adjuster. I ended up dinging up the footbox aluminum panel getting the old clutch adjuster out. I'll touch up the powder coat later with some matte paint.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121362&d=1579980097

[Pat427]

A Little More Progress

I made a little more progress today.

First, I was able to install the windshield wiper wheel box mounts. This was fairly painless. It was a little awkward to drill that oblong hole, but was able to make it work using my Dremel.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121459&d=1580158964

Next, I was able to test fit my new shifter. A big thank you to Papa for sending me the longer bolts needed to mount the shifter. I'm happy to report that the issue with interference with the trans tunnel cover has been fixed with this new handle.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121458&d=1580158947

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121457&d=1580158931

[Pat427]

Windshield Wiper Wiring Question

Probably a silly question, but I thought I'd run it past the forum to be sure.

In the diagram for the windshield wiper wiring, there is a picture that shows two wires (purple & white) docking to the same location on the wire motor.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121465&d=1580168362

In order to accomplish this, do I simply twist those two wires together and then insert them into one of the provided connectors as seen below?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121466&d=1580168375

Thanks,

Patrick

[Papa]

That's what I did.

[Pat427]

Wiper Wiring

Not much to report today. I finished the windshield wiper wiring today. It was pretty simple. Not sure where I'm going to mount the switch. I haven't decided if I'm going to put it on the dashboard or mount it under the dash.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121560&d=1580239761
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121559&d=1580239751

Also, I received the 6AN hose that I'll be using to build my new fuel lines. Hopefully the 6AN hose will satisfy the Holley Sniper which requires 3/8th lines. Still waiting on the 6AN fittings to get delivered before I can start that project.

[Pat427]

Fuel Line Issue

For a recap, I've decided to replace my fuel lines with 3/8th in. (send and return) lines in order to satisfy the demand of the Holley Sniper and my 427 engine. I've decided to run flexible lines this time.

I purchased 6AN PTFE lined fuel hose and now I'm piecing together the fittings needed to make all the connections.

I received most of these fittings today, but realized I didn't purchase the PTFE appropriate fittings, so I'm returning them today and re-ordering the correct ones (the ones with the little olive).

But, I discovered another issue and I'm hoping the forum can clear this up for me.

My issue is with the fuel send line that connects to my fuel filter. My engine came with a fuel filter already installed. See pic below.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121598&d=1580316178

Another shot looking up at the filter:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121599&d=1580316187

The male end is 3/8th, so I ordered this piece in order to connect the filter to the hose. It's a 3/8th to 6AN piece.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121600&d=1580316196

However, I can't get the plastic retaining piece to fit over the male end of the fuel filter. The little collar on the fuel filter is too big and won't allow the blue plastic clip to fit onto the male end.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121601&d=1580316206



Does anyone have any advice on how to connect the 6AN fuel hose to this end of the fuel filter?

Thanks,

Pat

[Greg K]

Non-compatible fitting for the filter. Could use a 6AN to barb fitting or change out filter.
Also not sure why they have the fuel line routed that way either. Should be able to relocate to inlet port #1 on back of throttle body.
121604

Do you have the regulator mounted to the firewall?
Here is old post when you mounted it https://Post #148 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31206-Patrick-s-427-Build&p=364148&viewfull=1#post364148)
Not needed, Sniper has it's own internal fuel regulator.

You installed a new pump hanger, the sock on that hanger is the first filter, you can eliminate one of your inline filters and install the 10 micron inline.

[Pat427]

Greg,

I previously removed the regulator on the firewall since the Sniper has its own.

My engine builder already has the fuel line going from the other side of the filter to Port #2.

The reason I would like to use the existing fuel filter is because in order to remove the filter, I would have remove my power steering pump in order to access the AN fittings on the outlet side of the filter.

So, ideally, I'd like to figure out a way to attach my 6AN fuel hose to the male barb on the filter. You mentioned a 6AN barb fitting. Is this what I would need? https://www.amazon.com/Derale-98204-6AN-male-Hose-Fitting/dp/B004XOR9T4. It seems like a piece like this would require a plain piece of tube to connect to the barb on the filter?



Non-compatible fitting for the filter. Could use a 6AN to barb fitting or change out filter.
Also not sure why they have the fuel line routed that way either. Should be able to relocate to inlet port #1 on back of throttle body.
121604

Do you have the regulator mounted to the firewall?
Here is old post when you mounted it https://Post #148 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31206-Patrick-s-427-Build&p=364148&viewfull=1#post364148)
Not needed, Sniper has it's own internal fuel regulator.

You installed a new pump hanger, the sock on that hanger is the first filter, you can eliminate one of your inline filters and install the 10 micron inline.

[Greg K]

Can you not disconnect the line up top at the throttle body and pull it down? You don't need to three filters and the additional fuel line around and under the engine and can eliminate the barb connection.

[Pat427]

Greg,

For clarification, I have already bypassed the fuel filter that came with the kit.

So as it stands, the fuel goes through the filter that is on the bottom of the in-tank hanger and then goes to the filter that my engine builder already installed (1st picture in post #406). From that filter it goes to the Sniper.

I could disconnect that fuel line from the Sniper, but the other end of the line is still connected to filter outflow port. I would have to remove my power steering pump in order to reach the AN fittings and loosen it, which I really don't want to do.

I would prefer to leave the filter in place and get that 6AN fuel line to go through the filter. I just have to figure out a way to get the 6AN fittings to attach to the male in-flow port on the filter.


Can you not disconnect the line up top at the throttle body and pull it down? You don't need to three filters and the additional fuel line around and under the engine and can eliminate the barb connection.

[cv2065]

I think you'd have to use the barb fitting and connect with a rubber hose and clamps. Personally. I would change out the filter to one that works with braided AN fittings. A little more work, but that's with just about everything.

[Greg K]

Thought you still had the filter back by the tank. Do they have some bracket or clamp holding the fuel filter or fuel line in place behind the PS pump?
Could always put the filter back in that came with kit, you have all the lines for it from the tank. IMO, it would be a much cleaner and serviceable install in the end.



Greg,

For clarification, I have already bypassed the fuel filter that came with the kit.

So as it stands, the fuel goes through the filter that is on the bottom of the in-tank hanger and then goes to the filter that my engine builder already installed (1st picture in post #406). From that filter it goes to the Sniper.

I could disconnect that fuel line from the Sniper, but the other end of the line is still connected to filter outflow port. I would have to remove my power steering pump in order to reach the AN fittings and loosen it, which I really don't want to do.

I would prefer to leave the filter in place and get that 6AN fuel line to go through the filter. I just have to figure out a way to get the 6AN fittings to attach to the male in-flow port on the filter.

[Pat427]

Greg,

The filter is bolted to the engine block by a hose clamp. It would be impossible to get a wrench on that bolt and the AN fitting that holds the fuel line to the out flow side of the filter with the power steering pump still in place.


Thought you still had the filter back by the tank. Do they have some bracket or clamp holding the fuel filter or fuel line in place behind the PS pump?
Could always put the filter back in that came with kit, you have all the lines for it from the tank. IMO, it would be a much cleaner and serviceable install in the end.

[Greg K]

What's another hour or two...your call, I know what I'd do. :cool:

[BadAsp427]

Pat,
Just my opinion. The filter you engine builder put in will some day have to be removed to replace it with a new filter, right? If that is the case and it is that hard to get too now then I would suggest moving it now so that in the future, with a completed car, painted, etc you are able to replace it with ease. The mounting location that the manual shows back in the rear of the car makes the replacement much easier.

Also, the fitting that is on the current filter that your engine builder gave you is designed for a simple rubber hose and hose clamp be attached to it. There are end pieces that are designed to "hide" the hose clamp and give the appearance of the actual hose fittings. This photo is an example of that type of fitting (just a bit larger).

Again, however, I would find a place to install your filter that is much easier to get to and replace when the time comes that you need to replace it from normal use. Just because your engine builder put it there does not mean it is the best for your build.

Hope my opinion helps...

Carl

121625

[Pat427]

Carl,

As always, your advice much appreciated and I'll be taking you up on finding a more easily accessible location for my filter for all the reasons you mentioned.




Pat,
Just my opinion. The filter you engine builder put in will some day have to be removed to replace it with a new filter, right? If that is the case and it is that hard to get too now then I would suggest moving it now so that in the future, with a completed car, painted, etc you are able to replace it with ease. The mounting location that the manual shows back in the rear of the car makes the replacement much easier.

Also, the fitting that is on the current filter that your engine builder gave you is designed for a simple rubber hose and hose clamp be attached to it. There are end pieces that are designed to "hide" the hose clamp and give the appearance of the actual hose fittings. This photo is an example of that type of fitting (just a bit larger).

Again, however, I would find a place to install your filter that is much easier to get to and replace when the time comes that you need to replace it from normal use. Just because your engine builder put it there does not mean it is the best for your build.

Hope my opinion helps...

Carl

121625

[Pat427]

Wiper Support

I originally saw this modification in EdwardBs thread, but have seen several others do the same. I took a piece of 3/4in tubing and cut new supports for the windshield wiper wheelboxes. These metal support replace the rubber ones that came with the wiper kit. Fairly simple project and I'm pleased with the results.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121629&d=1580346465

[Pat427]

Fuel Line Routing

With respect to the flexible PTFE fuel hose, is it okay to route the hose on top of the engine manifold or is this a no-no?

For example, in this picture, would it be okay to route the hose where the red arrow is pointing?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121664&d=1580414729

[Greg K]

Why not cut it shorter and use port #1 on the rear? Just swap the fittings on the throttle body.

[TMartinLVNV]

I second that. The inlet and outlet on the back of the TB should be used. No need for a fuel line to have to be routed to the front.

[Papa]

Definitely swap to the rear input -- much cleaner.

[Pat427]

Roger that.

Thanks for the advice guys.


Definitely swap to the rear input -- much cleaner.

[Boydster]

With everything you've done and been through, I really am looking forward to seeing this car run and done. Especially when I look back to your first post... "I have no knowledge or experience when it comes to building a car." Yer gettin it done!

[Pat427]

Thanks Boydster! I've definitely learned a lot over this past year. This forum has helped more than I ever imagined. I think I'm getting close to being able to wrap up the build soon. I'm looking forward to seeing it done too.


With everything you've done and been through, I really am looking forward to seeing this car run and done. Especially when I look back to your first post... "I have no knowledge or experience when it comes to building a car." Yer gettin it done!

[Pat427]

Holding Pattern

Still waiting for my PTFE hose fittings to arrive in the mail, so I'm kind of in a holding pattern today. I decided to mock up my cockpit today just for fun.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121797&d=1580510186
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121796&d=1580510177

[Pat427]

Warning?

As outlined in a previous post, I installed the Pro-M Racing Fuel Pump Hanger.

I installed the hanger without too much hassle. It required that I grind the opening of the fuel tank a little but, which was fairly straightforward. Of note, I did this modification/installation with 1/4 tank of gas in the tank.

I saw this warning on the Installation Instructions and ignored it, but now I'm getting ready to start my engine again and I'm growing scared and wanted to run this past the forum.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122130&d=1581101967

I did not, "thoroughly clean" the tank before installation of the hanger. Again, I installed the hanger with fuel still in the tank, so there was no cleaning to be had. I'm not sure if I needed to drain the tank and clean it or what. I'm not sure what/how a fire or explosion would happen, but I was hoping someone could shed some light on this?

Thank you guys,

Patrick

[Greg K]

Grinding on the tank may have caused a spark to ignite any fuel that may be in the tank. Nothing to do with attempting to start engine once more.

[Railroad]

I did not have to grind my tank. The Pro M lines will flex enough to go in, without damage or grinding.
Watch the wires on the sharp metal edges.

[Pat427]

Railroad,

You read my mind.

I too was a little worried about the wires getting damaged by the sharp edges. My paranoia got the best of me, so I decided to check it out. I removed the fuel filler and took a picture. I poked the wires around with a chopstick to make sure there were not any exposures or damage. Things looked okay. Pic below.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122151&d=1581111695



I did not have to grind my tank. The Pro M lines will flex enough to go in, without damage or grinding.
Watch the wires on the sharp metal edges.

[TMartinLVNV]

I did not have to grind my tank. The Pro M lines will flex enough to go in, without damage or grinding.
Watch the wires on the sharp metal edges.

That's how I did mine too. It was tricky, but no modifications were necessary.

[TMartinLVNV]

Railroad,

You read my mind.

I too was a little worried about the wires getting damaged by the sharp edges. My paranoia got the best of me, so I decided to check it out. I removed the fuel filler and took a picture. I poked the wires around with a chopstick to make sure there were not any exposures or damage. Things looked okay. Pic below.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122151&d=1581111695

It is looking good Pat. You will be happy that you went with the bigger lines and hanger when it is all finished up.

[Papa]

Railroad,

You read my mind.

I too was a little worried about the wires getting damaged by the sharp edges. My paranoia got the best of me, so I decided to check it out. I removed the fuel filler and took a picture. I poked the wires around with a chopstick to make sure there were not any exposures or damage. Things looked okay. Pic below.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122151&d=1581111695

Looks good, Pat. Good decision to do the proper lines now. What did you end up doing for the filter? I have a nice Holley filter with -6AN inlet and outlet and some mounting rings that I didn't use if you are interested. Not cheap, but top-shelf and I'll save you some money over retail.

Dave

[Pat427]

Dave,

As of now, I ended up using the existing filter that came with the kit. It was already in place, so I just used it. I considered using an aftermarket Holley filter, but I’m not sure if it’s needed.

Is there a specific advantage to using an aftermarket Holley filter?

Looks good, Pat. Good decision to do the proper lines now. What did you end up doing for the filter? I have a nice Holley filter with -6AN inlet and outlet and some mounting rings that I didn't use if you are interested. Not cheap, but top-shelf and I'll save you some money over retail.

Dave

[Papa]

Dave,

As of now, I ended up using the existing filter that came with the kit. It was already in place, so I just used it. I considered using an aftermarket Holley filter, but I’m not sure if it’s needed.

Is there a specific advantage to using an aftermarket Holley filter?

No specific advantage I can think of as long as it can be easily replaced and keeps the crud out of the injectors or jets.

Dave

[SteveP]

Pat:
Thanks for your build information. You are a year ahead of me. I'm just doing the suspension and I already had several of the issues you raised. You are going to save me a lot of head scratching. I've only read your first two pages and skipped to the end to thank you. I'm looking forward to how you dealt with the issues I'm sure are upcoming for me. Also, thanks to everyone who has helped you, they are also helping me.
One question, what is the trick you used to spread mounting brackets that are too tight? So far I've used a 24 inch Crescent wrench. Maybe you have a better technique.

[Papa]

One question, what is the trick you used to spread mounting brackets that are too tight? So far I've used a 24 inch Crescent wrench. Maybe you have a better technique.

Get a piece of threaded rod, a pair of nuts, and a pair of washers. put the nuts on the rod and thread them toward the center of the rod. slip the rod between the tabs with the rod running through the tab's bolt holes. slip a washer larger than the tab's holes onto the rod inside the tabs on both ends. spin the nuts back out toward the ends of the rod until they are holding the washers against the inside of the tabs. continue to wrench on the nuts until the tabs are spread apart to the desired width. If you need to pull the tabs closer together, just put the nuts and washers on the outside of the tabs instead of the inside.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122190&d=1581201634

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122189&d=1581201444

[SteveP]

Thank you. A much more elegant solution than bending the flange with my 24 inch crescent wrench.

[Pat427]

Unhappy Camper

I had planned on tightening up all my fuel line connections today and attempt to start my engine, but I ran into a snag.

I had assembled a short piece of fuel line to connect my new Pro-M Hanger to the fuel filter. Well, when I was tightening the fitting onto the hanger, the dang fitting stripped on me.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122253&d=1581288932

I had tried to save some money and had ordered a cheaper fitting for this particular connection and now I'm paying for it. So, I've ordered a new one (Vibrant Performance from Summit). I've been happy with the other Vibrant Performance fittings, so hopefully once this arrives, I can get that little piece of fuel line hooked up and attempt to fire the engine.

[PeteMeindl]

ugh.... I know that feeling, Pat! I broke a fitting on a flexible fuel line - same thing where i thought, "Maybe I should tighten this just a little bit more just to be safe" and bam, I broke it... Hope you get a replacement soon!

[Pat427]

New Builder

I haven't been in the garage much recently for a really good reason. I've been busy welcoming a new member to the forum. This is our first son. Welcome to the build, Emmett!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122629&d=1581899989

[Papa]

New Builder

I haven't been in the garage much recently for a really good reason. I've been busy welcoming a new member to the forum. This is our first son. Welcome to the build, Emmett!



Congratulations! Somebody get that boy a wrench.

[TMartinLVNV]

Congratulations Pat! Have you found a baby seat that fits on the passenger side yet?

[KDubU]

Congrats! A co-pilot in a few years.

[PeteMeindl]

That's awesome, Pat!!! Congratulations! There's no better news than this! Being a parent is an even bigger adventure than building a car! ;)

[E-Car Man]

Congratulations. Hoping that Mom and Son are both doing well.

[ptbashor]

Take care of what's important. The car will be there when you get back to it. My son is 8 months old so I was just there. It's a new adventure for sure.

[Boydster]

Congrats Pat!

[ydousurf]

I guess this just gives you a new reason to build another project in the future, that is, once your little helper is a little older. Congrats to you and your wife and all the family, on this most precious and glorious journey, Pat!

Dj

[Jeff Kleiner]

Congrats Pat! Before you know it you too will have a helper :)

https://scontent.fewr1-5.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/p720x720/11257881_714815218641189_2892609363235824829_o.jpg ?_nc_cat=105&_nc_ohc=O_DRlpyfZN4AQkROFtjKUmHY20crw0uVaTfPj6vTpK e5xx31PAnJEFVOw&_nc_ht=scontent.fewr1-5.fna&oh=ea64a8e4d8f6b4b560ea7d8536074f3d&oe=5E8A9162

Jeff

[Pat427]

Congrats Pat! Before you know it you too will have a helper :)


Jeff



Love that pic, Jeff!

[Pat427]

Last One

Ok, Ok. Last one, I promise.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122890&d=1582316583

[Pat427]

Texas Cobra Meeting

Out of curiosity, anyone attending the Texas Cobra Club meeting in April?

[Pat427]

Fired Up

I completed installing the new 3/8th inch fuel lines (send and return) along with the new Pro-M Hanger and fired up the engine again. Wow. Even my untrained ear can hear a pretty big difference in the sound of the engine.

The engine now has a much deeper and smooth sound. When I press the accelerator, there is no longer a hesitation in response from the engine. All in all, I'm pretty happy with things at this point. Still haven't tackled fine tuning the engine or anything.

I took the car out around the neighborhood and it ran nicely. I started to bed the brakes as outlined in the Wilwood instructions. I'm still a little concerned about the brake situation. They just don't seem to be as responsive as I thought they would be. I just don't have a point of reference, so I'm not sure if what I'm feeling is normal or abnormal. I hoping to get another builder over to my place to test the brakes and let me know if they're working well or not. I welcome anyone to swing by if you're near New Braunfels, TX.

Lastly, something that I hesitate confess, as I think a lot of you might shake your heads at me. But, I still haven't got the radiator fan to click on.

I'm hoping it's just a situation where I haven't kept the car running long enough to get it up to temperature. I've only ran the car for a few minutes at a time (like maybe 5 minutes at the most) I got the temperature up to about 67-68 C, so I'm not sure if that's hot enough or not.

On a brighter note, the gauges all seem to be working normally, including the fuel level gauge, which I was previously having issues.

[TMartinLVNV]

I'm flying into SA tomorrow for 2 1/2 weeks. My mom is having surgery but I should be good to leave the house by the weekend. I have the feeling that I will be ready for a road trip.

Mine takes longer than 5 minutes idling before the fan kicks on.

[Papa]

Fired Up

I completed installing the new 3/8th inch fuel lines (send and return) along with the new Pro-M Hanger and fired up the engine again. Wow. Even my untrained ear can hear a pretty big difference in the sound of the engine.

The engine now has a much deeper and smooth sound. When I press the accelerator, there is no longer a hesitation in response from the engine. All in all, I'm pretty happy with things at this point. Still haven't tackled fine tuning the engine or anything.

I took the car out around the neighborhood and it ran pretty nicely. I started to bed the brakes as outlined in the Wilwood instructions. I'm still a little concerned about the brake situation. They just don't seem to be as responsive as I thought they would be. I just don't have a point of reference, so I'm not sure if what I'm feeling is normal or abnormal. I hoping to get another builder over to my place to test the brakes and let me know if they're working well or not. I welcome anyone to swing by if you're near New Braunfels, TX.

Lastly, something that I hesitate confess, as I think a lot of you might shake your heads at me. But, I still haven't got the radiator fan to click on.

I'm hoping it's just a situation where I just haven't kept the car running long enough to get it up to temperature. I've only ran the car for a few minutes at a time (like maybe 5 minutes at the most) I got the temperature up to about 67-68 C, so I'm not sure if that's hot enough or not.

On a brighter note, the gauges all seem to be working normally, including the fuel level gauge, which I was previously having issues.

Pat,

The fan should come on around 80-85 degrees C.

Dave

[Pat427]

Let me know when you start getting cabin fever and maybe you can swing by.


I'm flying into SA tomorrow for 2 1/2 weeks. My mom is having surgery but I should be good to leave the house by the weekend. I have the feeling that I will be ready for a road trip.

Mine takes longer than 5 minutes idling before the fan kicks on.

[TMartinLVNV]

How close is your house to Cooper's BBQ? I've been to the one in Llano a few times on motorcycle rides through the hill country. Rudy's has a special place in my heart too, but they are all over SA now. I used to be a frequent diner to the original one by UTSA.

mmm, I'm hungry now.

[Pat427]

Google Maps says 14 minutes.

It looks like there might be some other builders from the San Antonio Cobra Club coming by on Saturday morning.

[Pat427]

Visitors

I had a couple visitors today. A couple guys from the local Cobra Club stopped by my build. It's always good to see a finished product for motivation. It's nice to have some knowledgeable guys nearby.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123784&d=1583707465

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123785&d=1583707475

[Pat427]

Two Steps Forward, Six Steps Back

Shane and Terry (TMartinLVNV) stopped by the build again today and went over things with a fine toothed comb and discovered multiple things that I'm going to have to address. I'll list them out and anyone feel free to chime in with advice on some or all of these issues.

1. My Holley Sniper is reading an Air/Fuel ratio of 35.6. I'm told this is markedly abnormal. The car runs, but sounds and smells very rich, which is expected given that A/F ratio. No error codes are noted on the Holley handheld. Of note: when I first installed my side pipes, I originally drilled a hole in the pipe to allow the O2 sensor to be at 15 degrees above horizontal (which is the recommended position from Holley), which I later discovered is not possible given the interference with the body, so I had to drill another hole to allow proper positioning of the O2 sensor. Well, this resulted in there being a big unfilled hole in my pipe, which I have tried to cover with Aluminum heat tape. Not sure if this hole is causing such an abnormal A/F ratio or not. Terry and Shane doubt that hole would be the sole cause of such a huge abnormality in the A/F ratio. Otherwise, I hoping its just a bad sensor. Any thoughts? (I've ordered Gas'n Quiet Pipes, which haven't arrived yet to remedy the issue with he hole it the pipe). Also, there is a little but of melting to the O2 sensor wire (it slipped and was resting on the pipes), but it doesn't appear the inner wires were affected. Not sure if this caused the issue or not. Anyone with any thoughts? I'll be calling Holley tomorrow to send them the diagnostic recording I made on the handheld. I'm hoping its an easy fix....

2. I have a leak in my Saginaw power steering pump, which is a huge PITA to access given its location. I'm probably going to have to disassemble the whole belt system to access the leak.

3. Small leak in my oil pressure sensor. This shouldn't be too hard to tighten up.

4. My clutch pedal was waaaaaaay too stiff. Terry estimated it was at least 10x stiffer than his. We squirted WD40 into the sheath of the cable and BAM!, the clutch pedal effort was like butter. The guys seem to think I need a longer and higher quality cable. Currently I have the FF cable which I'm told is pretty crappy.

5. My Lokar throttle cable seem to be too short, which is causing a fairly stiff throttle. Recommendation is for a longer Lokar cable. I also need to add a second spring to the throttle body.

6. I need to put a nut on my Howe racing tie rod end. I think EdwardB has recs on this?

7. There is concern that my header gaskets are no bueno. There is soot on engine block from right above the header gaskets on the drivers side.

8. I need to anchor the lower radiator tube to the frame X-member.

9. My throttle cable is having a tiny bit of rub on the throttle body, which needs to fixed. I know Papa had a nice fix for this, but I'm not sure I want to spend the money on it.

10. I'm going to put an extension on the bottom of the radiator overflow tank so coolant doesn't spray into the engine compartment when running at temperature.

I'm sure there are few others, but I can't think of them at the moment as I'm a little dazed right now.

I'm thankful for those guys coming over and discovering these issues, but damn, I'm feeling a little bummed. Oh well, this is the part that makes this build fun.

Thanks,

Patrick

[skidd]

Sorry we got ya bummed Pat!! At least it was all just fiddly bits, nothing really major.. except for the AF issue of course . Next time we'll start with some beers to numb the pain first. ;)

Also.. that 2nd throttle return spring... Don't put on a heavy one. Use the fatter light one. It's really just an added safety feature. A backup if you will.

[Jeff Kleiner]

... My Holley Sniper is reading an Air/Fuel ratio of 35.6. I'm told this is markedly abnormal. The car runs, but sounds and smells very rich, which is expected given that A/F ratio...



No, 35.6:1 is tremendously lean, not rich. People mistakenly think that when the exhaust stinks and burns your eyes it's rich, which is wrong. That's what lean or retarded timing does. That said I'd question the accuracy of that number; I'm not sure it would even run at idle if it's really that lean.

Jeff

[Papa]

No, 35.6:1 is tremendously lean, not rich. People mistakenly think that when the exhaust stinks and burns your eyes it's rich, which is wrong. That's what lean or retarded timing does. That said I'd question the accuracy of that number; I'm not sure it would even run at idle if it's really that lean.

Jeff

Pat,

As Jeff and I learned while my car was at his shop, the Sniper seems to be very sensitive to what the O2 sensor is reading. If you are pulling in any fresh air near the sensor, it may be causing the Sniper to think it's running lean and start dumping fuel in to compensate. Get your exhaust leaks addressed and be sure you aren't sucking any air into the system from outside the intake. You may want to check your plugs while you are at it and also re-run the setup wizard on the Sniper after you get the exhaust sealed up.

Dave

[skidd]

No, 35.6:1 is tremendously lean, not rich. People mistakenly think that when the exhaust stinks and burns your eyes it's rich, which is wrong. That's what lean or retarded timing does. That said I'd question the accuracy of that number; I'm not sure it would even run at idle if it's really that lean.

Jeff

I think what Pat meant to explain was.. since the Sniper is thinking the AF is at 35.6 (full lean), and it's showing it's in "closed loop".. it's adding more and more fuel trying to get the AFs back to the current target of 13.8. The "short term" fuel trims were at +50% and the long term was slowly going up as it sat idling. It smelled of raw fuel and was putting out a good amount of black exhaust. I'm pretty convinced there is a glitch-in-the-matrix. No matter what was done, the AFs never altered from full lean (35.6). Blips of the throttle did nothing to the AFs. Sealed up the few small exhaust leaks did nothing to the AFs. Either the sensor is borked, or something in the sniper brain is borked.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I think what Pat meant to explain was.. since the Sniper is thinking the AF is at 35.6 (full lean), and it's showing it's in "closed loop".. it's adding more and more fuel trying to get the AFs back to the current target of 13.8. The "short term" fuel trims were at +50% and the long term was slowly going up as it sat idling. It smelled of raw fuel and was putting out a good amount of black exhaust. I'm pretty convinced there is a glitch-in-the-matrix. No matter what was done, the AFs never altered from full lean (35.6). Blips of the throttle did nothing to the AFs. Sealed up the few small exhaust leaks did nothing to the AFs. Either the sensor is borked, or something in the sniper brain is borked.

Yes, Pat wasn't explaining it clearly but now that makes more sense. As Papa Dave said, and I experienced when his car was with me for paint with the sidepipes off the Sniper seems to lose it's mind and if the sensor is getting any false air into the exhaust. Plug those holes and fix the exhaust leaks before you go too far down a rabbit hole. BTW Pat, you are seeing black soot where the exhaust is leaking out but under the proper conditions such as when the throttle is closed after revving fresh air can and will get drawn INTO the exhaust through the same leak and cause the O2 sensor to read false lean which will tell the ECU to go rich.

Good luck,
Jeff

[TMartinLVNV]

Jeff and Dave please take a look at this thread on the Holley forum. The issue described seems to be the same. He may need to have to send the whole TB back to Holley in the end if nothing else fixes it.

https://forums.holley.com/showthread.php?20995-Sniper-AFR-Issues#post_104343

The exhaust leaks must be addressed first. Most of his header bolts needed a 1/4 turn to snug up. After Pat does a few more heat cycles of his motor he will keep checking those bolts until they no loner need tightening. Pat is going to call/email Holley as well. I had him do a 30 second data log in case they need it.

His 427 is a thing of beauty. Once he gets it running right, I know he will be super happy with it. I certainly had my tuning and leak issues for the first few weeks of operation. The biggest thing is that Pat got his motor running and this is his first big step into the car world! That is something to be very proud of. Now it is time to attack each issue until it is perfect.

It was a pleasure to meet both Pat and Shane in person while visiting SA. Both were great guys to talk to and see their builds. Personally, I think Pat may be overcompensating with such a huge engine. I did notice that he had really small feet when visiting him:p Shane is makine due with an itty bitty 302 :cool:

[Pat427]

A/F Update

So I called Holley today and discussed the issue. They said it was most likely the O2 sensor has failed. I know there has been some discussion about the angle in mounting the sensor. The instructions say to mount it at least 15 degrees above horizontal, which isn't possible given the interference with the body, so mine was mounted about 15 degrees below horizontal. The Holley guy said this is a no no. I know others on the forum state this is not a big deal, but I thought I'd re-visit the issue to see if anyone has recommendations.

The guy from Holley said that if I replace the sensor and it still reads an A/F of 35.6, then it's likely the ECU and I would need to send the whole thing back to them.

So, my gameplay is this:

1. I'm going to replace my pipes with the Gas'n Quiet Pipes (something I was going to do later, but will do now in order to troubleshoot things)

2. If my A/F is still high, then I'll replace the O2 sensor.

3. If that doesn't work then I'll send the whole thing back to Holley.

Anyone have a link to which O2 sensor I should purchase?

Thanks,

Patrick

[TMartinLVNV]

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/sniper_efi/sniper_efi_service_components/parts/554-155

https://www.efisystempro.com/wbo2-sensor-sniper-tbi-554-155

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-554-155

[skidd]

The only thing having the o2 sensor at that angle does.. is shorten its life span. It gets moisture inside it when it cools off.. and that will kill it sooner than "normal". I have mine for my Innovate LC1 installed at a similar angle to yours. It's been working fine for about 1000 miles. I know if/when the sensor dies, I'll just bite the bullet and buy a new one and not worry about it. It's small $$ for the only place I was willing to install it. P.S. I checked.. and the sensor in my car is a Bosch LSU-4.2 Your sniper uses the Bosch LSU-4.9, so we can't just try mine for testing.

[Pat427]

New Sniper

Well, long story short, Holley is sending me a new Sniper. The conclusion is there is something wrong with the ECU. So, once the new one arrives, I'm keeping my fingers crossed it fixes the A/F ration problem.

[TMartinLVNV]

Interesting. I'm glad they are taking care of the problem. Did you try a new O2 sensor before getting Holley to send a new unit?

[Pat427]

Interesting. I'm glad they are taking care of the problem. Did you try a new O2 sensor before getting Holley to send a new unit?

Yes. I tried a new O2 sensor. The A/F ratio still read 35.6.

Holley was super fast about shipping out a new one. I mean, I received a shipping notification that a new Sniper had been shipped within about 20 minutes of hanging up. Interesting...

[skidd]

On the upside.. since your o2 is an a non-ideal angle, you already have a spare o2 sensor for when the 1st one dies down the road!!

[Pat427]

Starting the Fixes

I'm an ER doctor, so as you can imagine work has been a disaster recently, so I haven't been in the garage much in the past few weeks.

I managed to score a couple days off, so I started fixing all the issues that were discovered during TMartinLVNV and skidds visit to my build.

First, I decided to address the leak from the back of the power steering pump. I had installed a pressure reducer to the back of the Saginaw pump (https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/60791/10002/-1)

There appeared to be a leak from in between the two brass pieces (where the black O-ring is located). See pic below:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125240&d=1585513517



I had to cut off a bolt on the back of the pump in order to get a wrench on these parts so I could tightened them down. After a lot of effort, I was able to get the pressure reducer much tighter. See Pic below. You can see the O-ring is crushed way more.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125241&d=1585513529

Hopefully, this fixes the leak. Fingers crossed.

Also, TMartinLVNV and skidd mentioned that I need to put 9/16-18 jam nuts on the Moog Tie Rod ends:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125242&d=1585513541

I've ordered these bolts and once they arrive, I'll be putting the car on jackstands, removing the tires and undoing the tie rods so I can get those jam nuts in place.


Still waiting on the new Sniper. Should be here on April 1st.

Let me know if ya'll have any thoughts on these issues.

Patrick

[TMartinLVNV]

Get a tie rod separator. If you don't have one already, you can buy a combo kit (they are cheap) or "rent" one from AutoZone. You pay for the tool and they refund it when returned. I can't remember if you used the cotter pins on the castle nuts already. If you did, you will need to replace them as well.

https://www.amazon.com/OrionMotorTech-Separator-Remover-Service-Splitter/dp/B01A0AWELW/ref=sr_1_7?crid=3BP9RCYDOVPPR&dchild=1&keywords=tie+rod+separator+tool&qid=1585519975&sprefix=tie+rod+sep%2Caps%2C234&sr=8-7

[Jeff Kleiner]

There appeared to be a leak from in between the two brass pieces (where the black O-ring is located)....

...After a lot of effort, I was able to get the pressure reducer much tighter. You can see the O-ring is crushed way more.

Hopefully, this fixes the leak. Fingers crossed.

Let me know if ya'll have any thoughts on these issues.



I'll keep my fingers crossed for you too but the thing with O ring fittings is that more often than not leaks are caused by them being overtightened rather than by them not being tight enough. You only need to barely compress the ring by making the fitting or nut snug. When you bear a$$ down on them the ring will usually get displaced or cut.

Thanks for your ER work and be careful when you go back in. I have a brother in law who is an ER doctor and niece who is a trauma nurse so my thoughts are with all of you on the front lines.

Jeff

[ptbashor]

Looking good, keep it up while you can!

I'm living vicariously through your build. One of these days I'll get back to the US and order my kit. Got my wife and son out of India and back to Texas but I'm here for the long haul. Things are starting to get stupid.

[Pat427]

New Sniper

I got a delivery today.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125376&d=1585698778
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125377&d=1585698789

Very impressed with Holley's willingness to replace the Sniper. I have no proof of this, but from reading Sniper forums, it sounds like Holley may have had a batch of Snipers with an ECU problem, which was leading to an A/F ratio of 35.6. The tech on the phone said they had identified and fixed the issue, but were being pretty good about replacing any Snipers with this problem.

Now, I just have to install it. Sounds simple....we'll see...

[Papa]

New Sniper

Now, I just have to install it. Sounds simple....we'll see...

You'll get it done, Pat. Replacing one that you've already installed and had the car running is much simpler than wiring one up from scratch.

Dave

[Pat427]

You'll get it done, Pat. Replacing one that you've already installed and had the car running is much simpler than wiring one up from scratch.

Dave

Thanks Dave. I'm hoping you're right. And thanks again for walking me through the wiring the first time around.

[TMartinLVNV]

I think this is going to fix all of your issues. I almost wish I could do my install again. The wiring would be much neater. But, I'm not too dissatisfied to do it over. Did they let you keep the old Sniper? Parts source!

[Pat427]

I think this is going to fix all of your issues. I almost wish I could do my install again. The wiring would be much neater. But, I'm not too dissatisfied to do it over. Did they let you keep the old Sniper? Parts source!

I’m supposed to send the old one back. I’m not gonna have a chance to work on the car for about a week or so. I hate when work gets in the way of wrenching. But once I get a few days off, I’m gonna take the old Sniper off and send it back to Holley.

[Pat427]

Throttle Cable Length

What length of throttle cable are ya'll using?

[MSumners]

Stay safe in the ED Pat. We haven't had any serious surge yet and our epidemiologists are now saying 'sometime between now and July' so its a lot of waiting for the unknown and trying not to let too many cases pile up for later. Hope all is well.
Mike S.

[Papa]

Throttle Cable Length

What length of throttle cable are ya'll using?

I used the 36" Lokar cable with a plate from FAST.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CONKFQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BBOLWTM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also did some stand-off clamps via longer valve cover bolts. All those parts were acquired from McMaster-Carr and I can help you with that if you want to do the same.

Dave

[TMartinLVNV]

I used the 36" Lokar cable with a plate from FAST.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CONKFQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BBOLWTM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also did some stand-off clamps via longer valve cover bolts. All those parts were acquired from McMaster-Carr and I can help you with that if you want to do the same.

Dave

I used the same ones that Dave did. In fact, I took the part numbers from his build page :p

The F.A.S.T. bracket makes it super easy to install and adjust the throttle cable.

[Pat427]

Throttle Length

Basically, I don't think my throttle cable is long enough.

I had purchased a 36 inch Lokar cable earlier in my build, but after TMartinLVNV and Skidd to a look at my build, it became evident to me the cable is too short. Currently, the cable (Yellow Arrows) has some pretty tight curves, which I don't think it is good. Plus, there isn't enough length to be able to use Papa's modification of securing the cable to the valve covers (which I think is pretty slick and would like to be able to do).

So, I think I'm going to have to get a 40 or 44 inch Lokar cable in order to make the curves less severe and to ensure I have enough length to do the Papa mod. (The red line is what I think it should look like)

I'm guessing my monstrosity of an engine is the reason a 36in cable isn't long enough...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125470&d=1585845279

[Pat427]

New Sniper 2.0

I was able to install my new Holley Sniper today.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125504&d=1585869906

Not a very exiting photo as it looks the exact same as the old one. Pretty straight forward install. I haven't hooked up all the wiring yet, but it looks like it'll be a straighforward process. I'm just hoping I can get the thing up and running without any problems. Fingers crossed.


The only thing I bunged up is the threaded rod that the air filter sits on.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125503&d=1585869896

Not sure if this has a specific name, but I'm likely going to need a new one as I dinged up the threads when removing it. Any thoughts on where to get one of these?

[TMartinLVNV]

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/air-cleaner-studs

I went into the garage and measured mine. 1/4-20 thread

[Pat427]

New Sniper

I got my new Sniper all wired up and I started the engine. It fired up without any issue. I checked the A/F ratio on the handheld computer and, BAM!, the A/F ratio was 12.9, which is what it's supposed to be, I think.

Anyway, I'm encouraged by this.

Unfortunately I have to go back to work tomorrow and can't work on the car.

Ya'll take care and be safe.

Pat

[Papa]

Congratulations, Pat. Much easier once you've done the initial work. Where did you settle on the idle setting?

Dave

[Pat427]

Congratulations, Pat. Much easier once you've done the initial work. Where did you settle on the idle setting?

Dave


Dave,

850.

The engine sounds like a deep rumble. Again, I don’t have a point of reference given my lack of experience, but I gotta say, I think the engine sounds good.

[TMartinLVNV]

That is fantastic Pat. Glad to hear you made a big step in the right direction.

[skidd]

Love it! Can't wait to hear that beast of a 427 rummblin!!

[Boydster]

Congrats Pat! Doesnt that 427 sound great? Wait till ya drive it! Happy for ya, man.

[Pat427]

Missing Part

I'm missing this bolt from the gas cap. I don't know what it's called. I was going to call Factory Five to see if I could get a replacement, but I'm not even sure how to describe what it is.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125852&d=1586299868

Any thoughts on where to find one of these?

Thanks,

Pat

[Pat427]

Progress

On the recommendation of TMartinLVNV and Skidd, I added a nut to the steering rack that butts up against the tie rod.

I'm still not entirely sure of the purpose of these nuts, but I went ahead and added them. The process was pretty simple, but definitely wish I had known about this while I was assembling the front end the first time around. I used a Ball Joint Separator tool that made this job a breeze. Thank you TMartinLVNV for that recommendation.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125952&d=1586463101

I think I'm almost ready to put the body back on....

[skidd]

Missing Part

Any thoughts on where to find one of these?

Pat

It's just a brass pin. It's a tiny bit smaller, but pretty much the same as the brass pin just below it in your photo. I'm sure F5 would send you one for nothing. if you're feeling creative, you could get a piece of brass rod from Home Depot, and try to fashion your own pin. Just have to find a way to turn down the rod to the right size, and then press it in. Or.. just contact a local metal fab shop, and see if they can make one for you. It'd be a snap for any of them.

[BadAsp427]

Progress

On the recommendation of TMartinLVNV and Skidd, I added a nut to the steering rack that butts up against the tie rod.

I'm still not entirely sure of the purpose of these nuts, but I went ahead and added them. The process was pretty simple, but definitely wish I had known about this while I was assembling the front end the first time around. I used a Ball Joint Separator tool that made this job a breeze. Thank you TMartinLVNV for that recommendation.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125952&d=1586463101

I think I'm almost ready to put the body back on....

Pat, it is a jam/lock nut. with out it, the toe adjustments would be free to "adjust" themselves. The inner rod is free to turn so that you can adjust the toe in and out. When you get to a point to have the car aligned, your alignment person will loosen the nut, and use the flats just at the end of the threads to put a wrench on it and turn it as needed. I had pointed out those missing during one of my visits to your garage. Glad you got them on there... your tires will also thank you...
Carl

[Pat427]

Pat, it is a jam/lock nut. with out it, the toe adjustments would be free to "adjust" themselves. The inner rod is free to turn so that you can adjust the toe in and out. When you get to a point to have the car aligned, your alignment person will loosen the nut, and use the flats just at the end of the threads to put a wrench on it and turn it as needed. I had pointed out those missing during one of my visits to your garage. Glad you got them on there... your tires will also thank you...
Carl


Ahh... now I get it! I sat there for a good 1/2 hour staring at the steering rack trying to make sense of those jam nuts and came up with nada, but now I get it. Thank you for the explanation Carl.