Patrick's 427 Build [Archive] - Page 3

Pat427

04-10-2020, 06:16 PM

Headlight Wiring

I started to work on wiring the headlights today. Before I get too far into this project, I wanted to make sure I'm going in the right direction.

After reading other build threads, I decided to install Delphi Weatherpacks on the wires to make life easier when having to replace bulbs. For the headlights, I ordered 12 Gauge connectors.

Below is a mock-up of what I think things should look like:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126093&d=1586559337

From Left-to-Right:

The three wires (from the Ron Francis Harness) are: Low Beam (red), Ground (black), High Beam (brown). These three wires will go into the Delphi Weatherpack. On the right side of the picture are three wires of the headlight harness, which are: Red, Black and White. These wires don't have any labels on them.

My plan was to hook these wires up in the orientation that I have them in the picture. So, Red-to Red, Black-to-Black and then Brown-to-White

Will this work?

The reason I'm concerned is because the Chassis Wiring Book says this, (which doesn't make sense to me):

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126094&d=1586559488

And finally, the Black ground wire seems to be a good bit larger than the Red Low Beam and Brown High Beam wires and I'm concerned the larger Black Ground wire won't fit into the Delphi Weather Pack?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

Patrick

GTBradley

04-11-2020, 10:23 AM

Hey Patrick, yeah the instructions aren’t terribly helpful, though it will help if you draw out your own schematic plan when wiring things. That way, when it doesn’t work you can keep track of what you’ve tried before. Two suggestions: buy a multi-pack of assorted fuses and buy the terminal removal tools for the weather packs. The terminal removal tools work really well and make it easy to change the orientation of wires in the connectors. Also, those connectors are labeled so you’ll be sure that a wire in one half is going to match up on the other half without having to compare them.

“My plan was to hook these wires up in the orientation that I have them in the picture. So, Red-to Red, Black-to-Black and then Brown-to-White”
this how mine are connected.

TMartinLVNV

04-11-2020, 11:48 AM

MSumners

04-11-2020, 12:21 PM

Going through this today too. I am using these old thread posts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126145&d=1586625165

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126146&d=1586625191

Pat427

04-11-2020, 02:22 PM

Pat, I concur with GTBradley. That is how the wires get hooked up. Kleiner has a detailed write up for all of the lights. Do you have the correct tool to crimp the Delphi Weatherpack wire ends?

https://www.amazon.com/Delphi-Packard-Weatherpack-Crimper-Tool/dp/B002CCAEJ6/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?ie=UTF8&aaxitk=FaVD7RKySNqQ-Mkv9Q29eg&hsa_cr_id=2492303880501&ref_=sb_s_sparkle

Terry,

So, I hit a wall today because I do not have the necessary crimping tool. None of the local auto/hardware stores have one in stock. I ordered one today. Unfortunately, it's going to be several days until it arrives, so now I'm stuck trying to knock out little things in the meantime.

Also, any thoughts on the Ground wire being much bigger than the other wires? I'm worried the Ground won't fit into the metal terminal of the Weatherpack.

MSumners

04-11-2020, 02:31 PM

If needed you can use different gauge pins on the same housing.

TMartinLVNV

04-11-2020, 03:40 PM

Terry,

So, I hit a wall today because I do not have the necessary crimping tool. None of the local auto/hardware stores have one in stock. I ordered one today. Unfortunately, it's going to be several days until it arrives, so now I'm stuck trying to knock out little things in the meantime.

Also, any thoughts on the Ground wire being much bigger than the other wires? I'm worried the Ground won't fit into the metal terminal of the Weatherpack.

If your little rubber seals are green, they will fit. You can squeeze it over the slightly larger wire. There are actually different color seals and terminals for different gauge wire. But for our purposes, the green ones will be fine.

Here is a pretty good tutorial for how to crimp and install everything. If you have some extra terminals to practice with, it will help when you do the real ones. It took me a couple of tries before I got the hang of it. Another thing that helped me was to try to assign ground (black) to a specific spot on all four corners. In my case, I choose to use "A" for each one. Red always went to "B" and so on.

https://www.wikihow.com/Assemble-Weather-Pack-Connectors

Just like forgetting to install the threaded coupler on a brake line until after you have flared it, I bet you will crimp on a terminal before remembers to put the seal on.

Pat427

04-12-2020, 02:35 PM

Holding Pattern

I'm still in a holding pattern waiting on my crimping tool to arrive so I can work on the lighting. In the meantime, I'm trying to get a couple things done.

First, I mocked up the headlights just for practice. As per usual, the instructions aren't very good in the build manual. I assembled the headlights and installed them as best I could. I wanted to see if this looks correct? Is the rubber gasket supposed to be visible like this (where the blue arrow is pointing)? I'm guessing its not supposed to look like this....

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126233&d=1586719634

Next, I installed the brackets for the hood latches. Pretty straightforward. I used 10-32 screws to mount those brackets instead of screws that come with the kit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126234&d=1586719646
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126235&d=1586719657

skidd

04-12-2020, 03:44 PM

Rubber Gasket.. yep.. that's correct. It just shows that edge around the chrome piece. You're good there.
As for those hood latch bits... I'd suggest a cotter pin through the small hole at the end of the square rod. Just in case one of the set-screws backs out, at least you won't lose the whole piece. Just a set screw. I can't for the life of me remember if they came with that hole, or if I drilled them??

https://www.ludicrous-speed.com/zp/cache/Shanes%20Cobra/TheBuild/IMG_20200412_154011_595.jpg

Pat427

04-12-2020, 06:38 PM

Skidd,

Thank you for the recommendation about the cotter pin. I'll definitely be do that modification. Those holes are not present on the square rod, so I'll drill them and add the pin.

Thanks,

Patrick

Railroad

04-12-2020, 06:46 PM

Edwardb idea, I used. I put a bronze shouldered bushing in the bottom hole for the square shaft support.
I found them at Ace Hdwe. You have to dress the corners of the square shaft down slightly. I epoxied the bushings into the bottom of the hood. This make the handles feel much more stable and takes some of the laterial load off the top screws.
Just remembered the bushing are a little long, had to shorten, used a cut off wheel.

Kmcallahan

04-12-2020, 08:16 PM

Mark Eaton

04-12-2020, 08:46 PM

Patrick, before you go too far down that road to hood latches by the FFR manual I would consider the Edwardb mod, its pretty sweet and makes the hood open and close really well. Here's a link to my build which has Edwardb's link in it

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?25895-Eaton-s-Mk4-9130-Oregon-Build-quot-Street-Legal-quot&p=398214&viewfull=1#post398214

Pat427

04-13-2020, 04:20 PM

Updates

I can't leave well enough alone. I ordered the parts for the hood latch modification from McMaster. Once they get here, I'll work on those latches.

In the meantime, I fired up the engine today and let it get up to temperature to the point I got the fan to turn on for the first time. I'm happy that it's working appropriately because I was nervous I had done something wrong. (Thanks to Papa for walking me through the wiring)

I no longer saw the leak from the power steering pump, which was a relief. However, I still see a small oil leak from where the oil pressure gauge screws into the engine. I think I have to either just tighten it a bit or unscrew the thing and put some thread sealant on there.

Still waiting for my crimper...

Papa

04-13-2020, 04:24 PM

Pat427

04-13-2020, 06:30 PM

Papa

04-13-2020, 06:37 PM

Oil Leak

Here is a picture of where I think the oil leak is coming from. Red Arrow.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126391&d=1586820143

The Blue arrow is pointing to the PTFE sealant I already put on the adapter that connects the engine to the pressure receiver.

Question: If I remove the brass adapter (Red arrow) in order to put on the PTFE sealant, will I have oil squirting all over the place?

Pat,

You should have sealer on those brass threads. I think you'll be fine removing it and reinstalling it with sealer with no major oil spill. There might be a few drips, but it's not like removing the drain plug. The oil level is in the pan when the engine is off and has been sitting for a while. Do you have sealer on the other end of the extension that goes into the block? If not, you know what I'm going to tell you. :p

Dave

Pat427

04-13-2020, 06:47 PM

Dave,

The brass adapter was already installed on the block when I received the engine, so I'm not sure if there is sealant on it, but I doubt there is because I think that is where the leak is coming from (Red arrow).

I did put sealant on the threads that link the brass adapter to the oil pressure receiver. (blue arrow) You can kinda see the PTFE sealant where the blue arrow is pointing.

I'll be removing the brass adapter and applying sealant (where the red arrow is pointing).

dncharo

04-13-2020, 07:23 PM

Pat - I literally just removed this part about an hour ago and there were just a few drops that leaked out. So don't worry about that.
David

Pat427

04-14-2020, 04:16 PM

Todays Updates

Still waiting for my weatherpack crimpers and McMaster parts.

I was able to find some Permatex PTFE thread sealer at an auto store. I took off the oil pressure sensor and was able to put on the sealant and got it tightened back in place. Fairly straightforward process. You can see some of the sealant where the arrow is pointing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126466&d=1586898350

I also drilled a hole in the hood latch square bar and put a cotter pin through the hole. I think this is a good idea and was a simple job.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126383&d=1586817262

I hate that I've wasted the past few days just waiting for parts. Not very good planning on my part.

Pat427

04-16-2020, 03:58 PM

Hood Latch Mod

I completed the hood latch modification. I gotta say that I'm glad I did this one. The final product is a much more solid feeling latch, plus it looks cleaner too.

I had to re-orient the hood latch holes in the transverse lie, instead of front to back. I then mounted the flat 10-32 plates onto the underside of the upper hood layer using HSFR. I held the plates in place with one of my nutserts while the HSFR hardened.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126590&d=1587070198

Then I grinded the bushings and mounted them into the underside of the hood with HSFR.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126588&d=1587070177
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126589&d=1587070186

I then grinded the square bar a little bit so it would fit through the bushing.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126587&d=1587070168

I then re-mounted the latches using 1/2 in 10-32 screws.

I'm pleased with the finished product.

I also received my crimpers for the Weatherpacks. That'll be my project tomorrow. In the meantime, it's off to work for an overnight shift.

Pat427

04-17-2020, 03:38 PM

Throttle Mount

I broke down and finally purchased a throttle cable plate from FAST. I just wasn't happy with the way the existing throttle connection looked.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126672&d=1587155239

I had to grind the base plate a little bit (red arrow) because it was interfering with the coil. I then spray painted the area to cover up the grinder marks.

The cable is much straighter and looks cleaner.

Question: Is there a better way to connect the cable to that L-brakcet (blue arrow)? I'm worried that the only thing connecting the cable to the throttle is a little set screw.

Papa

04-17-2020, 03:55 PM

Pat,

Ask and we'll help you spend a bit more of your money. This connector from Lokar is a great choice to replace the one from the kit that your are using:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Q4XCS6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A cheaper option is to run a second set screw in the kit-provided connector so that you pinch the cable between two set screws.

Dave

Pat427

04-17-2020, 04:02 PM

Dave,

You've become a really good spender of my money during the build. :p. I've seen this connector in other build threads and I like it. Thanks for the link.

Pat,

Ask and we'll help you spend a bit more of your money. This connector from Lokar is a great choice to replace the one from the kit that your are using:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Q4XCS6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A cheaper option is to run a second set screw in the kit-provided connector so that you pinch the cable between two set screws.

Dave

Railroad

04-17-2020, 04:51 PM

Neat looking set up, but I think you can do better with those throttle return springs.
They should be in line with the travel of the throttle shaft bracket. Ideally they should pull opposite of the travel. I see a couple of places to hook them, that would not require much work. JMO

Pat427

04-18-2020, 02:25 PM

Papa

04-18-2020, 03:06 PM

Wiring Question

I'm trying to get my lights wired today, however I've hit a wall.

Coming out of the Dash Harness are three wires (see pic)
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126703&d=1587237412

There is a light blue wire called HDLT SW-DIM, red LOW BEAM and a brown wire HIGH BEAM.

Where do these go?

According to the wiring diagram, these are supposed to connect to the Front Harness, but I don't see how that is possible. It seems to me they need to connect to the Headlight Switch, but my headlight switch only has two free male connections.

Any help would be appreciated

Pat,

Here is how they go on the kit-provided switch (On-On switch):

https://live.staticflickr.com/4351/36187945744_1cff4e125a_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/X8NFv3)

I ended up using a relay wired like this:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126719&d=1587241103

With is setup, if the switch fails, I still have low-beams by default.

Dave

Pat427

04-18-2020, 03:48 PM

Dave,

Thank you for the picture. I was totally off with my thinking. I was able to get the lights working properly. Very happy to see the lights on for the first time.

Pat,

Here is how they go on the kit-provided switch (On-On switch):

https://live.staticflickr.com/4351/36187945744_1cff4e125a_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/X8NFv3)

I ended up using a relay wired like this:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126719&d=1587241103

With is setup, if the switch fails, I still have low-beams by default.

Dave

Pat427

04-18-2020, 03:57 PM

Weatherpacks

I started working on my Weatherpacks today. After watching a Youtube video I went to work. I was able to get them put together without too much fuss. The proper crimper makes all the difference.

I noticed the RF Front Harness only has one ground wire for the passenger side and one ground wire for the drivers side, but there are two lights (Headlight and Turn Signal) on each side of the car that both need a Ground wire. Therefore, I'm missing one ground wire on each side.

So, I decided to connect the Ground wire to the frame. I drilled a hole and installed a 10-32 nutsert into the frame.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126720&d=1587242743

From that point, I'll be able to run two ground wires: one to the headlight and one to the turn signal light.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126721&d=1587242752

Then I hooked up the Weatherpacks to the headlights.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126722&d=1587242764

Pat427

04-18-2020, 07:54 PM

Turn Signal

On the front passenger turn signal lights:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126734&d=1587257507

On the RF harness, there is a Tan, Light Blue and Black.

On the Turn Signal, there is a Yellow&Red wire and a Green wire.

Does anyone know the mating pattern with these wires?

Much thanks,

Patrick

Papa

04-18-2020, 08:03 PM

In the rear:
The Ron Francis harness is set up so that all 4 lamps are illuminated for tail lights with one on each side used for brake lights and the other on each side used for turn signals. I prefer to orient them so that the uppers are brake lights for better visibility. When using that configuration:

---Tan harness wire at each corner is for tail lights and will go to the low element on all four light assemblies via the red/yellow lamp wire.

---Purple harness wire at each corner is for brake lights and will go to the bright element on the upper light assembly per side via the green lamp wire.

---Yellow harness wire on the driver's side is for left turn and goes to the bright element on the lower light assembly via the green lamp wire.

---White harness wire on the passenger side is for right turn and goes to the bright element on the lower light assembly via the green lamp wire.

---Black wire on all joins with the black harness ground.

In front:

---Tan harness wire at each corner is for the amber parking/running lights and will go to the low element on both light assemblies via the red/yellow lamp wire.

---Dark green harness wire on the driver's side is for left turn and goes to the bright element on the light assembly via the green lamp wire.

---Light blue harness wire on the passenger side is for right turn and goes to the bright element on the light assembly via the green lamp wire.

---Black wire on both joins with the black harness ground.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126558&d=1587003991

Pat427

04-18-2020, 08:12 PM

Awesome! Thanks Papa!

In the rear:
The Ron Francis harness is set up so that all 4 lamps are illuminated for tail lights with one on each side used for brake lights and the other on each side used for turn signals. I prefer to orient them so that the uppers are brake lights for better visibility. When using that configuration:

---Tan harness wire at each corner is for tail lights and will go to the low element on all four light assemblies via the red/yellow lamp wire.

---Purple harness wire at each corner is for brake lights and will go to the bright element on the upper light assembly per side via the green lamp wire.

---Yellow harness wire on the driver's side is for left turn and goes to the bright element on the lower light assembly via the green lamp wire.

---White harness wire on the passenger side is for right turn and goes to the bright element on the lower light assembly via the green lamp wire.

---Black wire on all joins with the black harness ground.

In front:

---Tan harness wire at each corner is for the amber parking/running lights and will go to the low element on both light assemblies via the red/yellow lamp wire.

---Dark green harness wire on the driver's side is for left turn and goes to the bright element on the light assembly via the green lamp wire.

---Light blue harness wire on the passenger side is for right turn and goes to the bright element on the light assembly via the green lamp wire.

---Black wire on both joins with the black harness ground.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126558&d=1587003991

Pat427

04-19-2020, 10:50 AM

Lights

I was able to get the headlights and turn signal lights to turn on, but the turn signal doesn't work when I toggle the turn signal switch. Below is a picture of the lights on. The other picture is the turn signal switch wiring.
Could the switch be bad?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126762&d=1587311122

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126763&d=1587311139

Thanks,
Pat

egchewy79

04-19-2020, 11:39 AM

Is ignition keyed on? I think the power supply for the turn signals only work with key on as opposed to the hazards, which have constant power with key off (pink wire)

Pat427

04-19-2020, 12:25 PM

egchewy79,

Thank you for the advice. I turned the key to the "On" position and then tried the turn signals again. This time, both turn signal lights blink like what I would expect the Hazard lights to do. I guess I've got something mixed up.

Is ignition keyed on? I think the power supply for the turn signals only work with key on as opposed to the hazards, which have constant power with key off (pink wire)

Papa

04-19-2020, 01:09 PM

Pat,

On the hazard switch, run the two red wires to the two center pins on the 6 pin switch. Then, put both the left and right wires on the two pins on just one end of the switch. It doesn't matter which end or which order the wires are placed. The pins on the other end of the switch will not have anything connected to them.

Dave

Pat427

04-19-2020, 01:29 PM

Hazard Switch

Does this look correct?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126767&d=1587320807

I'm concerned because the light blue and green wires say they are Front Turn wires. It doesn't seem like those wires should be on a Hazard switch?

Jeff Kleiner

04-19-2020, 01:52 PM

That is correct. The 4 way hazards power the wires for LF and RF turn signals as well as the LR and RR turn signals. The LF and LR tie together downstream in the harness as do the RF and RR.

Jeff

Pat427

04-19-2020, 03:00 PM

Wiring Continues

Alright, so I've made some progress, but things still seem mixed up.

When I toggle the Hazard switch to the "On" position (just like in the picture above), the turn signal lights will work properly. However, if I toggle the Hazard switch to the, "Off" position, the turn signal lights will both blink.

Pat427

04-19-2020, 08:26 PM

Brake Switch

Ok, so here's the current situation with the wiring:

The rear lights will only turn on if I also turn on the headlights. Once I pull the headlight handle out one notch, the rear lights of the car will light up. At that point, the turn signal will also work. However, if I turn off the headlights, the rear lights turn off, turn signal doesn't work and the brake lights won't turn on when the brake pedal is pushed.

I'm mostly concerned the brake lights don't work when the brake is pushed. I took a picture of my Brake Switch: Does this look right?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126790&d=1587345456

The white plunger on the Brake Switch is being pressed when the pedal is at rest. Once I press the pedal, the pedal is pushed away from the Brake Switch plunger and the plunger extends. Is this correct?

Papa

04-19-2020, 08:44 PM

Pat,

Two things for you to consider:

1. For the turn signals to work, they all have to be hooked up. It sounds like you have then connected, but just want to be sure.

2. A bad ground connection in either side of the Weatherpack connector can cause weird results. Check the harness side of the connector with a volt meter to see if you are getting power on each of the tan, purple, yellow, and white pins with the ground pins in the connectors. If all those check out, use an ohm meter to do a continuity test on the lamp side connectors using the pins in the connector. If those check out, you have good connections and should work.

The brake light switch looks correct, but check the harness as described above with a helper or by wedging the brake pedal. There is an error in my version of the manual and I had to move the wires to the other two spades on the switch as my brake lights were on with the pedal at rest and would turn off when the pedal was pressed. Also, make sure the plunger comes out far enough to actuate the switch or the lights will never come on.

Dave

Pat427

04-20-2020, 10:41 AM

Thanks for the response, Dave.

I was able to get all the lights on the car working properly except for the brake lights, I still haven't figured them out yet. The brake lights WILL light up, but only if I pull on the knob on the headlight switch. So, it seems like the wiring and grounds are good to those lamps. Without much knowledge on the subject, I'm convinced the issue is with the brake switch. I'm gonna mess with that today and see if I can make any progress.

Pat,

Two things for you to consider:

1. For the turn signals to work, they all have to be hooked up. It sounds like you have then connected, but just want to be sure.

2. A bad ground connection in either side of the Weatherpack connector can cause weird results. Check the harness side of the connector with a volt meter to see if you are getting power on each of the tan, purple, yellow, and white pins with the ground pins in the connectors. If all those check out, use an ohm meter to do a continuity test on the lamp side connectors using the pins in the connector. If those check out, you have good connections and should work.

The brake light switch looks correct, but check the harness as described above with a helper or by wedging the brake pedal. There is an error in my version of the manual and I had to move the wires to the other two spades on the switch as my brake lights were on with the pedal at rest and would turn off when the pedal was pressed. Also, make sure the plunger comes out far enough to actuate the switch or the lights will never come on.

Dave

Railroad

04-20-2020, 01:08 PM

Your brake light switch should have a hot at all times lead, if you want the brake lights to work with the key off and headlight switch off.
The other wire(s) should go to the bright filament on the upper bulb on the rear of the car.

Pat427

04-21-2020, 06:57 PM

Functionally Complete

After getting advice from the forum, I ended up replacing one of the fuses in the fusebox and BAM! The brake lights are working as intended. I'm very excited about this because now the car is functionally complete.

All systems are currently working: lights, gauges, engine, fan, brakes, transmission, horn, wiper motor. This is a pretty big day for me. Obviously, I have a lot of work until the car is totally complete, but I'm feeling good at the moment. Obviously, I would never have been able to get to this point without the help of BadAsp427, Papa, EdwardB, TMartinLVNV, Skidd, Kleiner, Wareaglescott, Boydster, Railroad, Mark Eaton, among multiple others. Thank you all for your help!

I'll keep you guys posted.

TMartinLVNV

04-22-2020, 01:39 AM

Pat427

04-23-2020, 05:40 PM

The Build Goes On

Not much to report today. I started on the modifications to the door handles. I was only able to work on where the knob attaches to the lever. According to other builders, the little knob can wiggle loose and fall off the lever. The recommendation is to drill and tap a 10-32 hole into the knob, which is what I did. Not too difficult and I was able to complete this with minimal fuss.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126978&d=1587681296

Pat427

04-24-2020, 05:52 PM

Chipping Away

I'm still chipping away at the remainder of the build. Work has been crazy recently, so not a ton of time to dedicate to the garage. I received my Lokar throttle linkage today and was able to get it installed. Pretty straightforward. Looks and feels much better than the kit supplied part.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127140&d=1587768579

Papa

04-24-2020, 06:47 PM

Looks good Pat. In the FAST bracket kit, you should have a couple of other pieces that came with it that will allow you to bring those return springs over a bit and not have them at such a sharp angle. That's what that unused slot is beside the one where you attached the throttle cable.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92498&d=1535931791

Pat427

04-24-2020, 08:00 PM

Ahh, I see it now. Yes, There are other brackets in the FAST box. I'll use one of those extra pieces and then I will be able to hook the springs in a better way.

Looks good Pat. In the FAST bracket kit, you should have a couple of other pieces that came with it that will allow you to bring those return springs over a bit and not have them at such a sharp angle. That's what that unused slot is beside the one where you attached the throttle cable.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92498&d=1535931791

Pat427

04-26-2020, 04:37 PM

Spring Fix

I used an extra throttle mounting tab that came with the FAST kit and attached it to the underside of the base plate and was then able to hook the springs more parallel with the throttle cable.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127267&d=1587936883

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127266&d=1587936871

I'm not entirely sure if this makes a functional difference, but it certainly looks more clean.

With the help of my wife pushing on the brake pedal, I was also able to get my front CV nut torqued to 250ft/lbs. I still have to torque the rears. That'll be on the list of things to do tomorrow.

Papa

04-26-2020, 04:42 PM

That looks great, Pat. I may have to go fix mine now.

Dave

Railroad

04-26-2020, 06:27 PM

Good job, looks clean!

Pat427

04-27-2020, 05:07 PM

Body

I put the body back on today. I'm going to have to move it forward about an inch or so. However, that will have to wait for another day since today is our anniversary and the wife will kill me if I spent the whole day in the garage.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127377&d=1588024997

Papa

04-27-2020, 05:19 PM

Happy anniversary, Pat!

Pat427

05-01-2020, 06:41 PM

C'mon Georgie

I'm once again in a holding pattern. I ordered Gas'n Side Pipes about 2 months ago and they still have not arrived due to the fact that Gas'N is shut down by this quarantine.
I called Georgie from Gas'N a few weeks ago and he didn't really give me a timeframe due to the uncertainty of the lockdown. Annoying, but understandable.

In the meantime, I'm trying to get as much done as possible. I'm going to tackle the windshield this weekend. I have the needed tap to make the modification that EdwardB mentioned in his thread.
I'll keep ya'll posted.

Pat427

05-11-2020, 04:48 PM

Trans Cover

I finally buttoned up the transmission tunnel cover today. This was more of a P.I.T.A than I had anticipated. Basically, after I put the heat shield and carpet in the cockpit and leather on the tunnel cover, it wouldn't fit very well. I ended up having to drill and tap 1/4-20 holes in order to get the cover to get secured properly.

In the front, I put the bolts on the sides of the cover and in the rear, I put them on top. I'll probably replace those ones with black bolts later on. I wasn't pleased with this at first, but it started to grow on me after a while.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128228&d=1589233290
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128229&d=1589233300

TMartinLVNV

05-11-2020, 05:11 PM

I love the cover. Good job. The silver bolt heads are not bad, but black chrome would probably look a little cleaner.

Pat427

05-11-2020, 05:53 PM

Thanks Terry. I agree with you.

I love the cover. Good job. The silver bolt heads are not bad, but black chrome would probably look a little cleaner.

Greg K

05-11-2020, 08:53 PM

You could hide them with screw caps...https://www.autoattire.com/license-plate-frame-screw-cap-covers.html

Pat427

05-12-2020, 06:01 PM

Quick Jacks

I mocked up the Quick Jacks today.

I think I'm going to end up putting on chrome overriders instead of the quickjacks, but for now, this will have to do. The ends of the threaded rods are still ugly, but I'll clean those up eventually.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128268&d=1589324293

Anyone with recommendations for where I can get good chrome overriders?

Thanks,

Pat

Papa

05-12-2020, 10:03 PM

Boydster

05-13-2020, 03:51 AM

Also suggest FFR over riders for FFR cars. I have the ********** pieces, and they can make your brain hurt.

Jeff Kleiner

05-13-2020, 04:31 AM

Make that 3 for the FFR stainless overriders.

Jeff

Pat427

05-13-2020, 04:40 PM

Brake Light

Does anyone know where I can source a single brake light?

Papa

05-13-2020, 04:51 PM

Brake Light

Does anyone know where I can source a single brake light?

Order it with your overriders from FFR! Ignore the stock warnings on their order site and call them. They often have items available or will put you in the queue to ship when they receive the parts.

http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/10622-red-tail-light/

http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/12012-over-rider-bumper-kit/

Dave

Pat427

05-14-2020, 03:04 PM

Tailights

Not much to report today. I installed the taillights. I had to expand the holes in order for the weatherpack to fit through, which I was able to do with my Dremel. The holes don't look very good, but you can't tell because the lights cover them.

I called FF today in order to get a new brake light. I was only able to leave a voicemail and I haven't heard back yet. Basically, on one of the lights, the threaded rod on the back had come loose so that it just spins around and therefore won't allow the locknut to be screwed down.

But for now, I'm just using one bolt to hold that one in place.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128396&d=1589486259

Pat427

05-18-2020, 03:49 PM

Progress
I made a little progress today. I got the hood mounted. A little tricky to get the hood hinge brackets tightened so the hood sits correctly, but I was ultimately able to get it done. I also noticed the hood scoop has become warped somehow and doesn't look good at all. I'm definitely gonna have to get a new scoop from FF. Oh well.

Plus, I picked up a nifty piece from Breeze Automotive. It's a bracket that holds the lower radiator tube to the X-member on the frame. Looks clean. Very happy with it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128556&d=1589834658

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128557&d=1589834678

JB in NOVA

05-18-2020, 11:49 PM

Hi Patrick,

Your build is looking amazing! Just wanted to thank you for such a detailed and thorough build thread. It has been very helpful to me as I get started on my own project. Good luck getting to the finish line!

- JB

Pat427

05-21-2020, 05:52 PM

Door Latch: Continued

I completed the rest of the modification to the door handles. I inserted a carriage bolt in the hole in the handle mechanism and secured it down with a lock nut. There's a couple catches here: First, I had to grind the four sides of the carriage bolt down in order for it to fit into the square hole. Secondly, once I secured the lock nut, I had to cut off the excess threads in order for the decorative chrome cover to fit. Last, I had to grind the domed back of the carriage bolt so the whole mechanism will fit flush against the door.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128793&d=1590100970

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128794&d=1590100979

I started eyeballing the frame getting prepared for installing the windshield. Really nervous about that.

Pat427

05-24-2020, 11:13 AM

Windshield

I got my windshield installed today. A little nervous at first since I was working alone, but I ended up getting in place with minimal fuss.

I had to trim the support posts a little bit in order to get the windshield to seat properly. I then removed the whole thing and drilled holes as outlined in the instructions. I then used the EdwardB mod and threaded those holes. Tapping those holes was fairly easy given the fact it's brass.

After that, I re-installed the windshield and the bolts screwed nicely into the threaded holes. Very relieved.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128923&d=1590336438

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128922&d=1590336391

And then a bonus pic.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128924&d=1590336448

This is the last time he'll ever set foot in the drivers seat.

TMartinLVNV

05-24-2020, 10:25 PM

Great progress Pat. You are really trucking right along. That last pic is adorable! No vomiting in daddy's Cobra!

Pat427

05-25-2020, 01:31 PM

Seatbelts

I started to mock up my seatbelts today. I haven't found really clear instructions on how to do this, so I wanted to check with the forum to see if anyone has a good resource/pictures of the specifics of how to mount the lap belt and crotch?

It's been a while since I went to the Mott Build School, so my memory is a bit fuzzy. Any help would be appreciated.

Below is a quick picture I took of the Drivers Side outer mounting tab. Do I insert the bolt from the outside as shown in the pic? Or should I insert from the inside of the tab?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128981&d=1590431172

Pat427

05-28-2020, 12:56 PM

New Clutch Cable

On the recommendation of TMartinLVNV, I got a new clutch cable. I've seen this topic previously discussed in various places on this forum and decided to heed the advice and replace the cable.

I ordered the part recommended by Edwardb. Part number M7553C302. I'm very happy with the cable. It is much heavier than the kit supplied cable and feels like it is high quality. I was able to get it installed without issue and the clutch pedal is working well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129189&d=1590688058

Also, I got my drivers side door installed. This was a huge PITA because I could not get the latch to line up with the handle mechanism. I was able to determine the issue was the frame mount where the door striker attaches was at a slightly wrong angle. This caused the striker to be out of line with the latch mechanism. I ended up having to use some washers between the latch mechanism and door in order to get everything lined up.

Next, I'm gonna mount the seats. I feel like I'm getting close to wrapping up the build. Fingers crossed.

BadAsp427

05-28-2020, 06:31 PM

Remember, you started as "mechanical knowledge none" and now your "close to wrapping up the build" I will tell you that you have a lot more to go, but your are closer now then you were the day you dropped it off the dolly. Oh, was I not suppose to say that?

Pat427

05-29-2020, 09:08 PM

Carl, don't remind me of that disastrous start. Palm-to-forehead just thinking about it. And don't for a second forget that I wouldn't be to this point without your help. Much thanks again. I'm sure I've got a lot more work ahead of me that I just haven't anticipated yet, but I feel optimistic at the moment. Fingers crossed.
Remember, you started as "mechanical knowledge none" and now your "close to wrapping up the build" I will tell you that you have a lot more to go, but your are closer now then you were the day you dropped it off the dolly. Oh, was I not suppose to say that?

Pat427

05-29-2020, 09:15 PM

Gas Cap

I decided to replace the kit supplied screws that hold the gas cap in place with 10-32 screws. I used 1 inch screws. I originally bought 3/4 inch screws, but they aren't quite long enough. I secured the screws with lock nuts. Feels much more secure.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129248&d=1590804611
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129247&d=1590804589

Thats all for today.

Railroad

05-30-2020, 07:56 AM

Good job, do not forget the washers on for the final install.

jiriza84641

05-30-2020, 12:39 PM

Tip Toeing Along

So, I had intentions of mocking up my wiring harnesses today, but decided instead to re-do my brake lines. I just wasn't completely happy with the way they looked, so I got another roll of NiCopp line and started over. It's amazing how much faster I was able to get this done the second time. Although the pictures might not look drastically different, I can assure you that up close the lines look much cleaner. I just knew I would always be annoyed if I had not fixed them, so I'm very happy I re-did them.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105690&d=1555285485

Next, a big thank you to the forum and a big palm-to-my-forehead with respect to the fuel regulator issue. I have confirmed that my Holley Sniper already has a fuel regulator, so there is no need for the one that I spent all day mounting. :mad:

So, I removed the fuel regulator.

I then started on my wiring harness. I was able to get the fuse box mounted, ground wire drilled into the frame, brake and clutch safety wires connected. I also drilled a couple holes in the firewall using a hole saw and got some of the wires to go through. Thats all I had in me for the day.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105692&d=1555285505

Last, I just wanted to double check with the forum that I am supposed to cut this mounting flange off of my TKO-600?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105693&d=1555285519

Thanks,
Patrick

What Steering rack are you using, and how did you get it to sit so high up? I have mine just clearing the mounting frame.

Pat427

05-31-2020, 09:13 PM

I'm using the FF supplied power steering rack.

All I had to do was align the rack with the mounting holes in the frame and it went into place pretty easily. I'm not sure why you're having a difficult time getting your rack higher in the frame. Is there interference somewhere that is preventing you from getting it aligned with the frame mounting holes?

Pat427

05-31-2020, 10:41 PM

Overriders

I ordered the Factory Five OVER RIDERS. I received them today. I had read they are easy to install and good quality, which is why I bought them. Well, it came as no surprise that I hit a wall very quickly during the installation.

On the rear of the car, I did the Kleiner mod using the threaded rod and coupler nuts technique as seen here:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129315&d=1590981699

This is great if you're using the Quick Jacks because the holes in the Quick Jacks are big enough so the threaded rod goes through the holes without any issue (you can then put a nut on the threaded rod and tighten everything down).

However, if you're using the OVERRIDERS, then it's a whole other story.
Why you ask? Well, the holes in the OVER RIDERS that receive the threaded rod are themselves threaded! See pic:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129316&d=1590981714

So with the threaded rods coming from the back of the body (see pic below) you cannot get them to screw into the threaded hole in the OVER RIDER!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129317&d=1590981729

There have been times in this build that frustrated me, but this one takes the cake. I had to walk away from the garage tonight and cool off. I was under the assumption these OVER RIDERS were going to be a breeze to install, but now it appears this is going to be another headache.

I'm assuming I'm going to have to drill the threads out of the OVER RIDER and get those holes big so the threaded rod can pass through and then put a nut on the distal most end of the threaded rod in order to tighten everything down?

If anyone has any suggestions on how to navigate this problem, please let me know.

Thank you,
Pat

edwardb

06-01-2020, 06:10 AM

There have been times in this build that frustrated me, but this one takes the cake. I had to walk away from the garage tonight and cool off. I was under the assumption these OVER RIDERS were going to be a breeze to install, but now it appears this is going to be another headache.

I'm assuming I'm going to have to drill the threads out of the OVER RIDER and get those holes big so the threaded rod can pass through and then put a nut on the distal most end of the threaded rod in order to tighten everything down?

If anyone has any suggestions on how to navigate this problem, please let me know.

Thank you,
Pat

Yes, for this mod if you're using overriders it's normal to drill out the threads. No big deal really. You'll have a little fun getting a nut and washer on the inside of the overrider. But just be patient. Works fine. If this is the most frustrating part of your build you got off easy. :p

Jeff Kleiner

06-01-2020, 09:50 AM

OR---You screw the all thread about an inch into the overrider and add the sleeve and whatever trim you use at the body (I prefer a stainless washer against the sleeve and rubber washer against the body). Push it through the holes and thread the two jamb nuts loosely inside the trunk then push it tight to the body and turn the threaded rod so that while it is unscrewing out of the overrider it is screwing into the coupler. Once you only see 2 or 3 threads left inside the overrider use the inner jamb nut to lock it tight to the coupler and turn the outer one so that it's snug against the inside of the body. I'll be doing one this afternoon and try to remember to take some photos for you.

Jeff

Papa

06-01-2020, 09:59 AM

Or … you ship the overriders with the car to Jeff and let him do all the work for you. :p

Pat427

06-01-2020, 10:20 AM

Jeff,

Thank you. Yes, I would really appreciate some pictures to help clarify this sequence.

OR---You screw the all thread about an inch into the overrider and add the sleeve and whatever trim you use at the body (I prefer a stainless washer against the sleeve and rubber washer against the body). Push it through the holes and thread the two jamb nuts loosely inside the trunk then push it tight to the body and turn the threaded rod so that while it is unscrewing out of the overrider it is screwing into the coupler. Once you only see 2 or 3 threads left inside the overrider use the inner jamb nut to lock it tight to the coupler and turn the outer one so that it's snug against the inside of the body. I'll be doing one this afternoon and try to remember to take some photos for you.

Jeff

edwardb

06-01-2020, 11:17 AM

rpurch

06-01-2020, 11:54 AM

Look great

Jeff Kleiner

06-02-2020, 06:32 AM

Jeff,

Thank you. Yes, I would really appreciate some pictures to help clarify this sequence.

Pat,
As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words so here are some photos I took while putting it together yesterday that should help you "see" what I'm talking about!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129361&d=1591096771

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129362&d=1591096803

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129363&d=1591096844

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129364&d=1591096875

As long as we're talking rear bumpers, for anyone wondering here's a writeup I did a few years ago on how I do the full width rear bumper/overrider combination. It's handled a bit differently.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?16986-Rear-bumper-with-coupler-mod&highlight=bumper

Hope that helps!

Jeff

129361 129362 129363 129364

Pat427

06-02-2020, 04:22 PM

Thanks Jeff!
I was tinkering in the garage and I was able to figure out this technique. It works great! Thank you for the pictures and description. It was much appreciated.

Pat,
As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words so here are some photos I took while putting it together yesterday that should help you "see" what I'm talking about!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129361&d=1591096771

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129362&d=1591096803

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129363&d=1591096844

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129364&d=1591096875

As long as we're talking rear bumpers, for anyone wondering here's a writeup I did a few years ago on how I do the full width rear bumper/overrider combination. It's handled a bit differently.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?16986-Rear-bumper-with-coupler-mod&highlight=bumper

Hope that helps!

Jeff

129361 129362 129363 129364

Pat427

06-06-2020, 12:02 PM

Can't Catch a Break

I took my car out for a spin around my neighborhood today. It drove really nice. I drove it for about 5 miles.

Once I returned to my garage, I noticed a hissing sound. Turns out there is a large gash in the back left tire and it was gushing air. Palm-to forehead.

I don't think this is going to be fixable with a patch. Looks like I'll be hitting the web to buy another tire.

At least the car drove nicely.

Papa

06-06-2020, 12:04 PM

Pat427

06-06-2020, 01:00 PM

Dave,

I’m fairly certain it was a puncture. I went through an area where houses are being built and I drove over some questionable terrain that had a lot of construction debris. Plus, as I was driving I didn’t hear any thuds or clinks of the tire hitting anything. Plus the hole in the tire is on the vertical edge of the tire tread, which leads me to believe I drove over something. But, I guess ultimately I’m unsure what the culprit was.

BadAsp427

06-06-2020, 10:18 PM

You most likely have road hazard insurance on the tire itself... Depending on where you bought it from

Pat427

06-16-2020, 03:38 PM

Moved..Again

I started this build in South Carolina, but ended up moving to Texas about 6 months ago. When we first moved to Texas we rented a house while we built a new home.
Well, the new house is done and my wife and I have finally moved in.

Pro Tip: try not to move the location of your build. Expert Tip: don't move the build twice.
Moving the car, parts, tools is a huge PITA and has been a huge headache.

I was able to get the car moved to the new house. It was about 12 miles from our rental. I had it towed on a flatbed truck. I considered just driving it, but I was too nervous, plus the car isn't insured or registered, so I went with the legal and safe choice and had it towed.

Our new neighborhood has really long paved roads which makes it enjoyable to drive the car around. The car continues to drive nicely. There is some variation in the RPMs when I first fire up and it sounds like it wants to stall, but I rev it a little and it stays running.

Plus, I was able to get a little work bench and tool cabinet. Feels nice to get organized.

Next on the agenda is to mount the seats permanently. Then wind wings and mirror.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130064&d=1592339257
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130065&d=1592339273

Pat427

06-19-2020, 02:05 PM

Help!

I was going to take the car around the neighborhood today, but no such luck. The car won't start.

When I turn the key, the fuel pump is making a weird rumbling/grumbling noise instead of the humming sound it usually makes. Then, when I crank the engine, all I hear is clicking noise.

I took a short video of these sounds and would be happy to text it to anyone that wants to hear it. PM your cell number if you want to see the video.

I'm assuming something is wrong with my fuel pump. Any advice would be much appreciated.

Pat

Jeff Kleiner

06-19-2020, 03:51 PM

Sounds like your battery is nearly dead. Even if the fuel pump failed the engine should crank normally. What does your voltmeter show when you turn the key on?

Jeff

Pat427

06-19-2020, 05:41 PM

Jeff,

After talking to Terry and Carl, I think the battery is the issue. The volts are reading 9.5, which I have learned is too low. I purchased a battery charger and will try to either charge the battery or just jump the car to see if that’s the issue. If it’s the battery I’ll be relieved, but annoyed because that battery was like $200. And Jeff! Let’s talk paint! When can we chat?

Sounds like your battery is nearly dead. Even if the fuel pump failed the engine should crank normally. What does your voltmeter show when you turn the key on?

Jeff

Jeff Kleiner

06-19-2020, 06:47 PM

Is it an Optima battery?

Jeff

Pat427

06-19-2020, 07:35 PM

Yes. It’s an Optima

Papa

06-19-2020, 07:56 PM

Pat,

Let me help you spend a little more of your money.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DHGPVKI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dave

Jeff Kleiner

06-20-2020, 05:14 AM

Yes. It’s an Optima

Wow! I'm shocked! (In case you didn't notice the sarcasm font was on when I typed that)

Instead of spending 90 bucks and having to keep the car plugged into the wall all the time so that you can keep an unreliable battery charged (not that I'm speaking from experience or anything...again sarcasm font) just spend that same money on a good ol' lead acid battery from Interstate, Autozone, etc.

Jeff

Pat427

06-20-2020, 09:24 AM

Jeff, you took the words right out of my mouth.

Wow! I'm shocked! (In case you didn't notice the sarcasm font was on when I typed that)

Instead of spending 90 bucks and having to keep the car plugged into the wall all the time so that you can keep an unreliable battery charged (not that I'm speaking from experience or anything...again sarcasm font) just spend that same money on a good ol' lead acid battery from Interstate, Autozone, etc.

Jeff

Jeff Kleiner

06-20-2020, 11:15 AM

I see that there is a series called "Optima High Performance House Calls". I've never watched but I think it shows an Optima rep showing up at owners' doors with jumper cables.

Jeff

Papa

06-20-2020, 07:31 PM

Wow! I'm shocked! (In case you didn't notice the sarcasm font was on when I typed that)

Instead of spending 90 bucks and having to keep the car plugged into the wall all the time so that you can keep an unreliable battery charged (not that I'm speaking from experience or anything...again sarcasm font) just spend that same money on a good ol' lead acid battery from Interstate, Autozone, etc.

Jeff

I get the sarcasm, Jeff. I have to say, the only time my Optima died was after traveling for two days in a trailer with the key on to get to your place. I keep battery maintainers on all my infrequently used vehicles, mowers, tractors, etc. I typically use a Deltran Battery Tender, but those don't play well with the Optima battery, so I bought their maintainer. If I didn't already have the battery, I'd probably do exactly as you recommend and just buy a simple battery, although I was a bit concerned about what a lead acid battery would do in the trunk of my car, which is why I went the AGM direction. Every modern car I've owned with the battery in the trunk has used AGM.

On another note, I participated in my first club drive today and the paint got lots of compliments. ;)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130267&d=1592699467

Kmcallahan

06-21-2020, 11:03 AM

I get the sarcasm, Jeff. I have to say, the only time my Optima died was after traveling for two days in a trailer with the key on to get to your place. I keep battery maintainers on all my infrequently used vehicles, mowers, tractors, etc. I typically use a Deltran Battery Tender, but those don't play well with the Optima battery, so I bought their maintainer. If I didn't already have the battery, I'd probably do exactly as you recommend and just buy a simple battery, although I was a bit concerned about what a lead acid battery would do in the trunk of my car, which is why I went the AGM direction. Every modern car I've owned with the battery in the trunk has used AGM.

On another note, I participated in my first club drive today and the paint got lots of compliments. ;)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130267&d=1592699467

Dave,
Thanks for this post, this give me more enthusiasm to narrow down a color for my 25th anniversary roadster. Great Pic!

Pat427

06-21-2020, 12:09 PM

New Battery

I took a play out of BadAsp427's playbook and bought a new battery from O'reilly's.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130305&d=1592759204

After getting the new battery in place, the car fired up no problems.

KDubU

06-21-2020, 03:30 PM

Jeff Kleiner

06-22-2020, 08:48 AM

Pat, you made Jeff’s day admitting it was an Optima. ;)

Kyle,
It's just so predictable. I have one here with an Optima right now---needed to move it last week after it had been sitting for about 7-10 days and had to jump it and then put it on the charger. Having an Optima is kind of like having a Tesla; you better plug it in when you park it if you want to be sure it will go next time :p

Jeff

Pat427

06-23-2020, 09:46 AM

Gettin' Right

Yesterday was a good day in the garage.

Terry (TMartinLVNV) and Shane (skidd) came to visit my build again. These two immediately went to work on looking things over and found something that I had completely missed. Basically, there was a connection on the inside of the alternator that was loose. This was causing the alternator to not work properly. Shane ended up taking the alternator out of the car and opened it up and, sure enough, a bolt was loose. We tightened it up and re-installed the alternator.

I fired the car up and the volts immediately went to 14-15 on the gauge.

Next, Terry and Shane tinkered with my EFI and adjusted the IAC and temp at which the fan clicks on and off.

I am very thankful for these guy helping me out because I don't have the fund of knowledge about engines that these guys have. And remember, it was about 185 degrees in my garage.

Afterwards, we took a drive to Rudys BBQ and had some food. All in all a good day in the garage and I feel like I got my engine sorted out and running better.

Papa

06-23-2020, 10:17 AM

skidd

06-23-2020, 11:22 AM

Glad we could come hang out .. and help out a bit too!! Wrenching on cars never gets old... even in a 185F garage.
It's funny.... when Pats motor was not running quite right.. and mine parked beside it was running perfectly.. nothing I said could convince him to swap out that 427 for my 302?
Go figure right!! :)

TMartinLVNV

06-23-2020, 11:47 AM

For the record, I took two bolts out before Shane pushed me to the side and went medieval on your alternator;). After that, I stood by and sweated. It was a wet heat, not the dry stuff I'm used to :cool:

The positive terminal (B+ I think it is called) on the backside of the alternator was very loose. Battery is probably just fine. Even though it still is an optima :rolleyes:

Pat427

06-30-2020, 03:13 PM

Pipes

My Gas'n Quiet Pipes arrived...finally.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130833&d=1593547865

I ordered them March 8th. I'm not happy with how long it took, but I'm glad to have them.

I went with the brushed look instead of the polished look.

I will be working on getting them installed this week.

Caddy Dad

07-01-2020, 07:57 AM

I ordered mine March 15th! Hopefully mine will ship out soon too. I got the mounting hardware earlier this week and now wondering how to insert the small round rubber hockey puck thing into the hanger. Doesn't seem to be an easy insert. Let me know how you make out.

Thanks!

Jeff Kleiner

07-01-2020, 08:14 AM

Looks like you'll be ordering some wedges.

Jeff

Pat427

07-02-2020, 01:43 PM

Pipes Continued

I got my Gas'N Pipes mocked up today.

A couple things came up that I need to sort through. First, it appears I was able to use the existing Factory Five hangers that I had previously installed. I was told they would not work, but I was able to get them to bolt on to the pipe. I 'm not sure if I've messed something up, but I'm gonna go with it for now.

Next, it appears I'm going to need a wedge for the drivers side. I'm thinking either 1/2" or 1" inch spacer. I'm not sure which now to go with. I'm leaning toward the 1".
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130963&d=1593714803

The passenger side looks alright and I don't think I'll need any wedges for that side.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130962&d=1593714788

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130961&d=1593714776

I have to take the passenger side off in order to drill the hole for the O2 sensor. I planned on drilling the sensor hole in the little collecting area of the pipe like I did with the FF pipes. The only issue is that little collecting area on the Gas'N pipes is shorter, which might make that a little tricky. I'll post a picture of that later so you can see what I'm talking about.

And yes, I'm planning on having the female attachment piece welded to the pipe. I need to look for someone to do this for me as I don't have welding tools and I've never welded before, so I'm gonna outsource that to a professional.

Jeff Kleiner

07-02-2020, 03:20 PM

You won't know the actual wedge configuration until the body is in it's final position with everything adjusted but for now it's obvious that the end of the driver's side pipe needs to come out quite a bit. In the end it will most likely have to come out even more. When you install the wedge to kick the rear of that pipe out you'll need to relocate the hanger.

Jeff

Pat427

07-04-2020, 10:16 AM

O2 Sensor

Okay, I'm trying to get the hole drilled into the sidepipe for the O2 sensor, but running into an issue.

As I mentioned before, the collecting area in my new Gas'N pipes is shaped differently than the Factory Five pipes, which is causing a hiccup in what to do.

This first picture compares the collecting areas of the two pipes:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131090&d=1593875294
As you can see, the Factory five pipe has a flat spot in the collecting area, which is where I had the O2 sensor hole. However in the Gas'N pipe, the collecting area is more tapered and there is no flat area for the mounting bracket to sit.

I wanted to know if it would be okay to drill the hole where I have the mounting bracket placed in the picture below,? (which is more on the body of the pipe)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131089&d=1593875284

I really don't want to mess this up, so I would love any input you guys may have.

Thanks,

Patrick

Railroad

07-04-2020, 10:34 AM

If it would help you can cut one end of the flange of the O2 mount off. This might get the sensor closer to the 4 tube mix area. May not even be needed???

Also a threaded bung is available, which you can weld into the tapered area, if desired.

Papa

07-04-2020, 10:52 AM

Pat,

That part of the pipe is muffler. I would try to get into the collector, but double check that you'll be able to get it in/out and it clears the body of the car before drilling. I'd also go get the bung welded rather than using the clamp.

Dave

Pat427

07-04-2020, 10:55 AM

Yea, I'm thinking about just cutting off the ends of the mounting flange, so effectively there would just be a circular threaded hole remaining and then have that welded to the pipe.

There is a bit of a flat spot in distal end of the collecting area (right next to the weld where the 'body' of the pipe starts) which might work. See pic below:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131095&d=1593878031

I just don't know anything about welding, so I didn't know if you can weld something right next to an existing weld line? Because if I mount the bung where the red arrow is pointing, I feel like the two welds would be touching each other and I wasn't sure if that's allowed?

If it would help you can cut one end of the flange of the O2 mount off. This might get the sensor closer to the 4 tube mix area. May not even be needed???

Also a threaded bung is available, which you can weld into the tapered area, if desired.

TMartinLVNV

07-04-2020, 11:50 AM

$10 from Summit. It should fit on the flat spot without having to mess with the muffler section. Just make sure that the threads on the sensor are the same with the bung. Summit has lots of options available.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-1188?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0YD4BRD2ARIsAHwmKVmLc9hAUzhPgWun80Ua Cvp8WC4ebNhMaMPMk0XAETzb_kZnnuWYhkgaApXQEALw_wcB

$8 on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Vibrant-1194A-Standard-Oxygen-Sensor/dp/B00180870Q

Pat427

07-04-2020, 12:19 PM

I saw one on the Holley site, which I would think should be the appropriate size/thread etc

$10 from Summit. It should fit on the flat spot without having to mess with the muffler section. Just make sure that the threads on the sensor are the same with the bung. Summit has lots of options available.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-1188?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0YD4BRD2ARIsAHwmKVmLc9hAUzhPgWun80Ua Cvp8WC4ebNhMaMPMk0XAETzb_kZnnuWYhkgaApXQEALw_wcB

$8 on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Vibrant-1194A-Standard-Oxygen-Sensor/dp/B00180870Q

Jeff Kleiner

07-04-2020, 12:24 PM

Quit agonizing. Any good muffler shop will have the bungs and the ability to weld them into the area you have shown with the red arrow. It will take 15 minutes and lighten your wallet by about 40 bucks.

Jeff

Pat427

07-07-2020, 03:36 PM

O2 Sensor

I was able to get an O2 sensor bung welded to the pipe. I took it to a local muffler shop and they were able to do it. $30.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131408&d=1594154005

Once I got home, I installed the pipe and fired up the engine. Oh boy! Those pipes sure do sound good. The sound is low and rumbling and quieter than the kit supplied pipes. Very happy with the sound.

Also, I got ahold of Kleiner and had a nice talk. He’s about a year out for paint and body. Gonna go with him. I’ll probably give Miller a call too just to see what his timeframe is.

skidd

07-10-2020, 02:30 PM

I can't wait to hear those pipes in person.

Jeff Kleiner

07-10-2020, 03:41 PM

...probably give Miller a call too just to see what his timeframe is.

I warned him when we talked a couple of days ago :p

Jeff

Pat427

07-10-2020, 05:53 PM

I can't wait to hear those pipes in person.

Shane,

They sound really nice. We gotta get you up here again soon to hear them.

460.465USMC

07-13-2020, 09:46 PM

The Build Continues

Also, I tackled the modification of the front upper control arms. I wasn't sure about this step as it's not mentioned anywhere in the build manual and I wasn't sure if this was something that FFR had fixed by the time my kit was built and the modification may be totally unnecessary or what. However, I decided to go ahead and perform the modification. I'd like to extend a specific Thank You to BadAsp427, who walked me through this modification, which turned out to be painless. Hopefully I did it right and it helps with alignment down the road.

Pat

Hello Pat427, I'm enjoying your thread. As another first timer (just ordered my complete kit about two weeks ago) I know I will have similar questions, so really appreciate you documenting your questions. Question: what is the Mod to the front UCAs that you mention above? Thanks in advance for the info. I will continue reading on.

Pat427

07-14-2020, 04:44 PM

460.465USMC,

Thank you for following along. I'm exited for you to tackle the build. It's been fun and challenging all at the same time. But, with this forum, you should be just fine.

As far as the mod for the front upper control arms, it basically boils down to cutting them shorter. I'm not entirely sure this modification is necessary, but it was recommended to me by BadAsp427 (Carl). And to be perfectly candid, when BadAsp427 gives me advice, it take it. He's been a life saver and hasn't been wrong on anything to this point in my build.

Here's a link to a discussion thread. It's a little over my head, but there's some pictures that illustrate what the modification looks like.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27330-Unable-to-get-enough-Caster-amp-Camber

Hello Pat427, I'm enjoying your thread. As another first timer (just ordered my complete kit about two weeks ago) I know I will have similar questions, so really appreciate you documenting your questions. Question: what is the Mod to the front UCAs that you mention above? Thanks in advance for the info. I will continue reading on.

Pat427

08-11-2020, 04:05 PM

Windshield Wipers

In order to get the car legal in Texas, it must have windshield wipers. I learned recently that I could've just borrowed some cheap hand-powered windshield wipers for the inspection and then removed them afterwards. Well, I didn't research that enough and ended up buying the windshield wiper kit from FF.

This has been a bit of a PITA, but I think I'm almost done with it. I'm planning on posting some more details about the installation process, but for now I had a question for the forum.

I have managed to crossthread one of the wheelboxes and therefore cannot get the nut to secure the wheel box tightly to the body. Pic below. Kinda hard to see, but trust me, the threads are cross threaded.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133434&d=1597179369

Question: would it be easier to buy a 7/8th die and try to fix the threads OR should I buy a replacement wheel box. The reason I'm asking is because I've never had to fix threads before and didn't want to buy all the tools and then have it not work properly, etc..

If it's recommended to buy a new one, does anyone have a brand or part number for these?

The good news is once I get the windshield wipers working, I'll be ready for inspection/registration.

TMartinLVNV

08-13-2020, 04:10 PM

Looks cross threaded to me. I don't have the wipers and have never examined the parts in person. Looking at your pictures, they don't look like high quality metal and would be wary of repairing the threads.

GTBradley

08-14-2020, 09:48 AM

Are you saying the nut caused the cross thread damage and you removed it? Because the nut is not in that picture.
133587
If the threads are just slightly damaged you can use a nut to clean them up, but it needs to be threaded on straight and use a different nut, preferably a hardened one. I would mount it in a vice to hold it and don’t force it. If the threads are too damaged for that I would use a die and some cutting oil to gently thread on one thread off one thread, on two threads off one thread and so on. It may still not work, but it’s worth a try.

P.S. A tap and die kit from Harbor Freight is not that expensive and pretty handy to have around.

Pat427

08-14-2020, 03:03 PM

I elected to buy another wheelbox from Finsh Line. I took the nut off for those pictures, but yes, it was the nut that caused the damage.

Are you saying the nut caused the cross thread damage and you removed it? Because the nut is not in that picture.
133587
If the threads are just slightly damaged you can use a nut to clean them up, but it needs to be threaded on straight and use a different nut, preferably a hardened one. I would mount it in a vice to hold it and don’t force it. If the threads are too damaged for that I would use a die and some cutting oil to gently thread on one thread off one thread, on two threads off one thread and so on. It may still not work, but it’s worth a try.

P.S. A tap and die kit from Harbor Freight is not that expensive and pretty handy to have around.

Pat427

08-14-2020, 03:08 PM

Wings

Today I mounted the wind wings and sun visors.

The FF instructions for the wind wings are pretty bad. The pictures aren't very good and the description isn't much better. The FF instructions say to mount the wind wings so that the "Factory Five Racing" logo can be read from the inside. This seems silly to me. I think it makes more sense for that logo to be legible from the outside of the car. So, I strayed from the instructions and mounted them the way it made sense to me. Below are a couple pics. If anyone has a functional reason or a convincing aesthetic reason that I should change things, please let me know.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133626&d=1597435228

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133625&d=1597435218

I also mounted the sun visors.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133627&d=1597435242

bldr.rob

08-19-2020, 01:48 PM

Looking good! I'm not too far from you (Bee Caves just north of Dripping Springs). We've got a rolling chassis and will be working on fuel lines next. Would love to stop by some day when convenient and check out your build. Thx.

BadAsp427

08-19-2020, 08:21 PM

Hey Pat, Glad to see you are getting some time in on the build. Couple questions for you. On the photo of your wind wing, it looks like the top bracket is not all the way in/over the windshield brace. Is it bottomed out on the inside where I can't see or just not on all the way. Also, what is the pattern in the dash board between the glove box and your gauges. Is that just some kind of reflection or something? Regardless, it looks like you are starting to get all those little tasks accomplished... fun times await.

Carl

Chilly

08-20-2020, 12:24 PM

I pulled the trigger and ordered my MKIV kit. Completion date is 2/2/19.

I have no knowledge or experience when it comes to building a car. I went to the Mott College Build school which was helpful, but I anticipate this forum will be the main source of help when problems arise.

I've been reading multiple build threads (EdwardB, Papa, Wareagle, etc) in preparation for my kit to arrive, so I already feel like I've learned a lot about problems and troubleshooting, although I'm sure the reality of what I'm getting myself into will set in once those 26 boxes arrive.

I only work about 15 days a month, so I anticipate I'll be able to dedicate a lot of time to the build. No kids (yet). No wife (yet).

My plan is as follows:

MK4 Complete kit-powder coated
IRS
427w engine Holly Sniper (from the Engine Factory) Pic at bottom.
In-tank Fuel system
Tremac TKO 600
Power Steering
Halibrand wheels
sway bars (front and rear)
Wildwood brakes (red calipers)
Drivers side chrome roll bar
Breeze Radiator shroud
Russ Thompson turn signal
Drop trunk.
Leather seats
Vintage gauges
Glove Box
Wind Visors
Sun Visors
Pre-assembled side louvers

Again, I'm the definition of a novice, so any help is MUCH appreciated. I look forward to the challenge.

Thanks in advance,

Pat.101527

Pat ,

Almost have the same setup, just received my car last month, how is your build going?

Colin

Chilly

08-20-2020, 12:50 PM

Pat,

Did you do the lizardskin as well as the thermo-tec product? Curious.

Colin

Pat427

08-20-2020, 03:34 PM

absolutely! I'm just north of New Braunfels. shoot me a PM whenever you'd like to swing by!

Pat427

08-20-2020, 03:51 PM

Hey Carl, excellent observations. Nothing gets past you!

With respect to the wind wing brackets I've attached a pic below that will help explain the situation:

Where the red arrow is pointing, there is a threaded hole in the windshield support beam. (There's also another hole on the front edge of the windshield support beam that you can see.)
Anyway, this hole was a perfect size for the set screw from the wind wing bracket to screw into, so I used it. This resulted in the wind wing bracket being not fully seated.

With respect to the pattern on the dashboard: there's a pattern in the leather. It came that way. It's kinda hard to see when you look head-on. I'm hoping I can somehow flatten it out with heat or something.

Thanks for checking over things. Let me know if there's anything you think I should change.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133948&d=1597956054

Couple questions for you. On the photo of your wind wing, it looks like the top bracket is not all the way in/over the windshield brace. Is it bottomed out on the inside where I can't see or just not on all the way. Also, what is the pattern in the dash board between the glove box and your gauges. Is that just some kind of reflection or something? Regardless, it looks like you are starting to get all those little tasks accomplished... fun times await.

Carl

Pat427

08-20-2020, 03:54 PM

Colin,

It's going well. I'm in the home stretch. I'm in the process of wrapping up some of the smaller projects and working on getting the car registered and titled. It's been a lot of fun (and some frustration), but this forum has been a lifesaver.

Almost have the same setup, just received my car last month, how is your build going?

Colin[/QUOTE]

Pat427

08-20-2020, 04:08 PM

Colin,

I used the thermo-tec stuff as well as a spray on stuff on top. It wasn't lizard skin, instead a product called Boom-Mat.

Pat,

Did you do the lizardskin as well as the thermo-tec product? Curious.

Colin

Chilly

08-21-2020, 08:58 AM

Colin,

I used the thermo-tec stuff as well as a spray on stuff on top. It wasn't lizard skin, instead a product called Boom-Mat.

Pat,

How many cans of Boom-Mat did it take to get the job done? looks a little easier process that the lizard skin. Also did you go with the hydraulic clutch on your set-up?
Let me know how it goes with your titling, If there are any tricks to the process.

Pat427

08-21-2020, 06:19 PM

Colin,

I honestly forget how many cans of Boom-Mat I used, but I think it was between 6-8. I chose it because it seemed easier than Lizard skin. I didn't feel like getting a compressor and buying all the equipment needed for Lizard Skin. At that part of the build I had blown my budget so badly, I was trying to avoid spending too much money on the soundproofing, so I went with Boom-mat.

I did not use a hydraulic cluth. However, I did buy the OEM Mustang clutch cable that is recommended in multiple build threads (I think Mike Forte sells them and I would defintitely recommend it). I also bought a clutch cable adjuster that attaches to the drivers footbox wall (it's the same one Papa used in his build). My clutch feels fine and doesn't feel too floppy or too hard. It feels just right.

I'll let you know about titling. Sounds like it's a vriable experience depending on who you deal with at the DMV.

Pat,

How many cans of Boom-Mat did it take to get the job done? looks a little easier process that the lizard skin. Also did you go with the hydraulic clutch on your set-up?
Let me know how it goes with your titling, If there are any tricks to the process.

Chilly

08-23-2020, 05:50 PM

Pat,

Thanks for the info. Yes budget seems hard to stick with. I am going the hydraulic clutch route, will let you know how it goes.

Chilly

08-26-2020, 04:25 PM

Brake Line

I started on my brake lines today. A little tougher than I anticipated.

I was only able to get the front lines that connect the front PS and DS brakes before I had to go to work.

My question for the forum: Is it okay to have the brake lines protruding out like they are OR do I need to re-do them to reflect the red lines so they are more "tucked" into the sides of the engine compartment?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104586&d=1553797585

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104587&d=1553797597

None of them are bolted down. I'm waiting for my stainless attachment pieces.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104585&d=1553797575

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104584&d=1553797564

Also, I got a my CNC resevoirs delivered today.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104588&d=1553797607

Now it's off to work...

Thanks,

Patrick

Where did you buy your CNC dual brake canisters kit? Did you order the FF brake line or use something different?
Regards,
Chilly

Pat427

09-01-2020, 11:13 AM

Chilly,

I purchased it from some random supplier I found online. As I understand CNC has gone out of business, so I just searched the internet until I found an auto store that had one in stock. I can't remember the name.

Pat427

09-01-2020, 11:21 AM

Papa

09-01-2020, 11:31 AM

Pat,

There are at least two items on the car that will draw current all the time; the clock and the GPS speedo (memory) feature. If the car isn't being driven, the alternator can't keep the battery charged and you'll get a slow drain over time until the battery is too low to turn the starter over and too low to feed voltage-critical functions like the EFI computer. I keep battery maintainers on all my vehicles that aren't driven regularly.

My preferred maintainer for lead acid batteries is: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0128-Maintain-Damaging/dp/B00068XCQU/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2DAS27QSG9YRR&dchild=1&keywords=deltran+battery+tender&qid=1598977837&sprefix=deltran%2Caps%2C192&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzVkRWRUtGU1RFRTFMJ mVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDgxMjE2MUVCQkJaUFJMRTYyNyZlbmN yeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODI5MTE2MzBLNkFNQVgzWUFDUSZ3aWRnZ XROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05 vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Dave

TMartinLVNV

09-01-2020, 11:37 AM

Battery Issue..Again.

Just to recap. Earlier in my build, my battery died. Orginally, the battery was an Optima, which people told me was a bad battery to use. So, I ended up putting in a new battery that I got from O'reilly Auto Parts. Since putting in that new battery, everything was fine, but I started to notice the car would struggle to start after a few weeks.

Thankfully, Terry and Shane came to my build and discovered that my alternator was not working properly because a bolt had come loose on the inside, which was causing the alternator to malfunction. Those guys fixed the alternator and all was good.

Now, my car is struggling to start again. It'll do that that, 'clicky clicky' sound of a dying battery. I managed to get it to turn over today (barely) and I noticed the Volt gauge on the dash was reading 14. However, the volts on my Holly Sniper are only reading 11.8-11.9. I drove around for about 20 minutes today, and the car ran great.

Does anyone have an idea of what the heck is going on with my battery? Is the alternator not working again or what?
Any help is always appreciated.

It is weird that the gauge and the Holley Sniper readout are not the same. They should be. I don't know why they would be different. Were you looking at them at the same time or maybe one with the engine off and one with the engine on? With the engine off and key on, it should be in the 12s. With the engine on, it should be in the 14s.

If my car is going to sit for more than two weeks, I hook up my Battery Tender. It keeps it nice and topped off. Driving around the neighborhood may not be enough for your alternator to charge up the battery. At idle, there may not be enough RPMs for the alternator to charge at all.

Use your multimeter to check the output of your alternator at idle. Attach the red wire to the post that Shane tightened up and ground the black wire.

Hoooper

09-01-2020, 11:50 AM

Use a multimeter to determine if the holley or the dash is right. If your gauge is somehow connected to the alternator but the alternator isnt well connected to the battery then I guess both could potentially be right...

Pat427

09-01-2020, 02:19 PM

Dave,

Thank you for your response.

I purchased that exact Tender. I've got it hooked up to the battery as I type this. I'll be hooking the battery up from now on.

Pat,

There are at least two items on the car that will draw current all the time; the clock and the GPS speedo (memory) feature. If the car isn't being driven, the alternator can't keep the battery charged and you'll get a slow drain over time until the battery is too low to turn the starter over and too low to feed voltage-critical functions like the EFI computer. I keep battery maintainers on all my vehicles that aren't driven regularly.

My preferred maintainer for lead acid batteries is: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0128-Maintain-Damaging/dp/B00068XCQU/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2DAS27QSG9YRR&dchild=1&keywords=deltran+battery+tender&qid=1598977837&sprefix=deltran%2Caps%2C192&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzVkRWRUtGU1RFRTFMJ mVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDgxMjE2MUVCQkJaUFJMRTYyNyZlbmN yeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODI5MTE2MzBLNkFNQVgzWUFDUSZ3aWRnZ XROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05 vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Dave

BadAsp427

09-03-2020, 02:31 PM

Strange, I've had my car sit for weeks without running and never have any problem with the battery and Pat has the same one. I'm wondering if he somehow has something hooked to be hot all of the time that should not be. Pat, have you tried turning off your master kill switch and seeing if your battery drains with that off? Just a thought.
Carl

Pat427

09-03-2020, 02:51 PM

Battery Update

Alright, so I've had my battery hooked up to a charger/tender for the past 30 hours. The charger is finally showing a green light, which indicates a full charge.

The car started much better. I noticed the dash gauge showed a little over 14V. The Holley Sniper computer showed 12.3-12.4 (it was previously 11.3-11.8)

I've been scratching my head trying to figure out why the battery keeps getting drained and I think I found an issue I wanted to run past the forum.

The battery cable and grounding strap that attach to the battery posts are loose. I've attached a picture for context:

Basically the battery cable and grounding strap have a ring-like female end that goes over the battery posts. The female endings have a bolt that can be tightened. However, even with those bolts tightened down as far as they'll go, that female end is still loose on the battery post. They definitely touch the battery posts, but are loose enough to pull up and off without any significant force. You can see those bolts where the red arrows are pointing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134709&d=1599162210

Can this cause my battery to be drained?

Carl, I do not have a master cut-off switch? Is this something I need to add?

Thanks guys!

BadAsp427

09-04-2020, 04:05 PM

Pat, I'm at a loss, what is all of that? You have a side post battery, but using top post mounts or something. Please explain all of that so I can help, if I can. I do not understand why you have wires on the top and on the side. As far as the top post battery posts, you should have those down on to the posts much further and then tighten up the nuts you are pointing at. It will clamp tight to the battery posts.

Here is a photo of my battery. I have the ground strap and the hot (+) wire hooked up. That's it. Are the extra wires you have for your Viper system? That is about the only thing you have on your car that is different from my build.

134720

cv2065

09-04-2020, 04:14 PM

What gauge are those battery cables?

Pat427

09-04-2020, 10:04 PM

BadAsp427

09-05-2020, 07:27 AM

Carl,

With respect to the top of the battery: I have the battery cable attached to the positive post. Then, I have the ground strap attached to the negative post.

With respect to the side posts: This is where the Holley Sniper power and ground wires are attached. I spoke to a Tech from Holley Sniper who recommended attaching the Holley Sniper power and ground wires to a side port on the battery.

Also, in the picture above, the battery charging clamps are also attached to the top negative and positive posts.

Ok, so that makes a little better since of what I'm seeing.

1st. So the top post battery cables should tighten down and be very solid. If you haven't, start by loosening the nuts on each of them all the way until they are just about to come off the bolt. Remove both of them so that they are not touching the battery. Using perhaps a large flat screwdriver, open them up a little bit. This will allow them to slide down onto the post further. Notice that the post and the clamps are tapered slightly, be sure they tappers match. In the photo with the arrows, the positive terminal actually looks like it may be upside down. Check the tapper and confirm. I can not really tell about the ground post. Then put them back on the post. They should almost go all the way down to the top of the battery's plastic top. A slight gap is fine or if you have the felt pads, then down to them. Then tighten the nuts down. This should create a good tight connection.

2nd, I just pulled up the Holley Sniper wiring diagram and you appear to have that done correctly. At first I was thinking this could be causing your drain on the battery, but it appears that is what they want done with those power wires.

Hopefully, the loose wires will fix your problem. If the alternator was not able to charge the battery, due to the poor connections, then every time you started it up, the battery would loose a little more charge. And also, the loose connections would not allow the appropriate current to flow to the starter.

Carl

Pat427

09-21-2020, 01:35 PM

Battery Update and License Lighting

I took the advice of Carl, BadAsp427, and noticed the battery cable ends indeed have a taper to them. I had them upside down. I remedied this issue and was able to tighten the connectors much tighter. In addition, I noticed the wires in the busbar I used had come loose, so I tightened those as well. The car starts much beer now. I'm hoping it was those loose connections that were the culprit. Fingers crossed.

Then I tackled the license plate wiring. Pictures below. Before ya'll start beating me up, let me explain: No, this is not the final way the wiring will be. I just want to get the license plate light working for inspection purposes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135367&d=1600712786

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135366&d=1600712775

After getting things wired up, the light didn't work...

Is there anything I'm missing here? Is there a switch or something? Or is the light just supposed to come on automatically?

Thanks guys,
Pat

Papa

09-21-2020, 01:53 PM

Pat,

The light should come on with your headlights.

nuhale

09-21-2020, 02:01 PM

As long as you're into the license plate mount you may want to do the mod so the plate fits. I ended up doing a blend of what EdwardB and Shark did with LED conversion. Was a pain and the whole mod took longer than I planned for but in the end it came out nice.

Pat427

09-21-2020, 03:04 PM

Dave,

Thanks for the clarification. The license light worked when I turned on the headlights!
Next stop is getting the car inspected.

bldr.rob

09-21-2020, 03:26 PM

Dave,

Thanks for the clarification. The license light worked when I turned on the headlights!
Next stop is getting the car inspected.

Congrats! Think you'll be taking to the event in San Marcos?

Good luck with the registration process. Be interested to hear any tips about it.

Pat427

09-21-2020, 05:13 PM

Congrats! Think you'll be taking to the event in San Marcos?

Good luck with the registration process. Be interested to hear any tips about it.

Yes, I’m gonna do my best to get to the event in San Marcos.

Kmcallahan

09-21-2020, 08:33 PM

Yes, I’m gonna do my best to get to the event in San Marcos.

Guys I may see y’all there. I am planning to go also. Hope weather sty’s nice.

Pat427

09-24-2020, 12:35 PM

Inspection

In order to legally drive my car to the mechanic for inspection, I had to get a Single Trip Permit from the Texas DMV, which I was able to do this week.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135475&d=1600968499

Texas requires the inspection be performed by an ASE Master Mechanic AND that mechanic has to print out a copy of his/her ASE certificate that shows it is currently valid.

Sounds easy, but it has been tougher than I imagined, but I eventually found someone that I think will work. I'm planning on driving the car there today. I'm nervous because I haven't taken her out on public roads yet. I've only driven around my neighborhood to this point, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed everything goes smoothly. The mechanic is about 10 miles from my house. I'll let y'all know how it goes.

Papa

09-24-2020, 12:58 PM

Good luck, Pat! First real drive is a great experience.

Pat427

09-28-2020, 12:42 PM

Inspection Update

I took the car into the mechanic today for inspection. I was supposed to do this a few days ago, but life got in the way.

I was more nervous than I expected while exiting my neighborhood onto the public roads. The car drove fine and I made it to the mechanic without any issues. Of course..I don't really have a point of reference, so I'm not sure if the car performed like it was supposed to or not. I digress. The point is, the car made it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135694&d=1601314428

I dropped the car off and the guy told me it would be an, "all day" process, so I took an Uber back home. Welp...about 45 minutes after getting home, I got a call saying the car was ready. So, I took another Uber back to the shop and picked up the car.

Everything checked out. The mechanic said that he thinks the engine is running rich because the exhaust has a very strong gas smell to it. Any advice on this would be appreciated.

Other than that, she passed the ASE Master Mechanic inspection.

Next stop is to get her registered. Hopefully, I can get this done quickly as I would like to drive her to the Texas Cobra meet in October.

It felt pretty good to have the car on the open road. It sounds pretty good and that acceleration....:cool:

Papa

09-28-2020, 12:57 PM

Congratulations, Pat!

TMartinLVNV

09-28-2020, 04:13 PM

"Everything checked out. The mechanic said that he thinks the engine is running rich because the exhaust has a very strong gas smell to it. Any advice on this would be appreciated."

Plug in your Sniper display and it will tell you exactly what your air/fuel ratio is. I think the standard tune will be about 13.5 to 14.0 to one while at a steady cruise. Heavy throttle will drop that down to 12ish to one. The mechanic may not remember what an exhaust without catalytic converters smells like :cool:

Congrats on your first legal road trip.

Raddksn

09-29-2020, 09:08 AM

KDubU

09-29-2020, 09:17 AM

Congrats! You have done it and now you have her to drive. The first few outings are nerve wracking due to always thinking what could go wrong as you did just build a car!

TMartinLVNV

09-29-2020, 10:08 AM

Congrats! You have done it and now you have her to drive. The first few outings are nerve wracking due to always thinking what could go wrong as you did just build a car!

It took me at least 1000 miles to start feeling comfortable and relaxed while driving mine.

BadAsp427

09-29-2020, 01:49 PM

Congratulations Pat. You did well.

Jeff Kleiner

09-29-2020, 02:01 PM

It took me at least 1000 miles to start feeling comfortable and relaxed while driving mine.

I know what you mean...I waited until mine had 36 miles before I put it on the track the first time ;)

Jeff

Jay-rod427

09-29-2020, 02:08 PM

He likely says he thinks it's rich because it doesn't have catalytic converters. Does it? a modern mechanic isn't used to that smell since basically everything they see does have converters.

Pat427

09-29-2020, 04:42 PM

Congratulations Pat. You did well.

Carl, you know that I would have never ever gotten this done without your help. You deserve a huge shout out for everything you did to help.

Pat427

09-29-2020, 04:44 PM

Congratulations, Pat!

Dave, you deserve a huge thank you too. I wouldn't have gotten this far without your help. I greatly appreciated all your explanations and suggestions. You spent my money well.:D

Pat427

09-29-2020, 04:57 PM

congratulations pat! I just found this thread over the weekend, once I started reading I couldn't stop. great job building as well as posting your progress. what impresses me the most is how fast you completed the build! new wife congrats, new baby boy again congrats, new job one more time congrats, not one but two moves! truly impressive!!!

Thanks Raddksn,

It's been a whirlwind the past year or so. I did go fast only because I knew we would be moving during the build, but if I could do it again, I'd go much slower and try to enjoy the process a little more.

bldr.rob

09-30-2020, 04:44 PM

Congrats Pat! Great build and thank you for all the incredible hints, tips and tricks you've shared on your journey. Hope to see you in San Marcos next week!

Pat427

10-01-2020, 11:40 AM

Weight

In order to get titled in Texas, I had to get an official weight of the car. Some people have mentioned that you can just guess the weight and the people at the DMV don't care, but no such luck in my case. They wanted an official printed copy of the weight report. Well, luckily for me, there is an official CAT Scale at a truck stop about 5 miles from my house. I went there today and got the car weighed.

When I came out of the office, I found my car surrounded by about 8 truckers. I took me a good 15 minutes of chatting before I could leave. I feel this might become a common situation.

The car came in at 2560lbs. I'm not sure how they calculate power-to-weight ratio in terms of car performance, but I gotta think 538hp in a 2500lb car is pretty good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135806&d=1601570319

q4stix

10-01-2020, 12:04 PM

I'm sure each horse will really feel that 5lbs on its back ;)

.21hp/lb slots you in right between a Ferrari 458 Speciale and an early Bugatti Veyron, so not too shabby at all!

mark jones

10-01-2020, 12:18 PM

Beautiful, wish my budget would allow that combo.

Pat427

10-06-2020, 01:38 PM

Clutch Fork

The past few times I've taken the car out for a drive, I've been having some trouble with the transmission going into gear. I got stuck at a red light and couldn't get the car into gear and I caused a mini traffic jam. I was able to eventually get pushed into a parking lot to remedy the issue.

It turns out the bolt holding the clutch cable to the transmission throw-out fork is coming loose which caused the clutch cable to wiggle loose from the fork. Luckily I was able to tighten that bolt enough to get the car back home.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135995&d=1602009286

Anyone else have this problem? Anyone have a solution? I was thinking about replacing the jamb nut with a locknut. Any thoughts?

Hoooper

10-06-2020, 02:08 PM

loctite. Tighten the jamb nut tighter. A nylock may or may not work depending on how hot that clutch fork gets. A distorted thread nut should work well for it. When I have something like that which may get warm I would usually use a distorted thread nut in place of the the jamb nut.

Pat427

10-10-2020, 11:20 AM

Legal and more...

Well...I'm legal. I went to the DMV with all my papers in order as per the Texas DMV website. The guy at the DMV had no idea what I was trying to do. I don't think he had ever heard of someone trying to register a kit car. He called his supervisor who appeared to have more knowledge about the situation. After a few minutes of them typing on the computer, they both came over to the little window and gave me my temporary tags and registration stickers. I couldn't believe it went through without any issues.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136121&d=1602346220

Also, the Texas Cobra Club is having their annual meet in a town about 8 miles north of where I live. I had the chance to go out there and meet some guys. Everyone was really nice and it was awesome to see so many Cobras out there. When I went out there, a lot of guys had gone for drives and the others were still covered up, but all-in-all there were about 100 cars out there.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136120&d=1602346208

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136119&d=1602346195

Unfortunately, I'm on daddy daycare duties this weekend, so I can't take the car out there to hang out and go for rides, but still a cool thing to be happening so close to my home. Driving around town, I've seen packs of Cobras driving around. It's interesting to see the attention they command.

Papa

10-10-2020, 05:13 PM

I wonder if this is the club Dave Smith was going to visit that he mentioned in his FFR Live update a couple of days ago.

TMartinLVNV

10-10-2020, 08:10 PM

That is really awesome Pat. Every time I try to go to a meet, it gets cancelled :rolleyes:

Jeff Kleiner

10-11-2020, 06:33 AM

I wonder if this is the club Dave Smith was going to visit that he mentioned in his FFR Live update a couple of days ago.

Yes, it is. He texted me last night and said that the swab they used at the airport for the mandatory COVID testing must have been as long as his arm! I replied that you know what they say...everything is bigger in Texas :)

Jeff

Fixit

10-12-2020, 05:26 AM

Back to your clutch cable/fork loosening problem...

What's the ty-rap in the picture? As that crushes/wears it'll introduce slop in the adjustment...

As I was thinking about this, the idea of a 1/2-circle/rounded washer (to register in the fork divot) came to mind. Then this came to mind... a rocker arm pivot ball 136242
I dunno... depending on what engine they're for, they're bored with a 5/16" or 3/8" hole. Maybe this, then the adjuster nut, then the jam-nut (with blue loctite) might solve your issue.

Pat427

03-17-2021, 01:28 PM

Advice:

I went out for a drive today and very quickly I noticed a grinding/scraping noise coming from the right side of the vehicle (hard to tell if it's from the front or rear of the car). Obviously, it's hard to pinpoint what is going on while driving. It sounds like metal scraping on something. It got worse as I drove, but luckily I made it back home without incident.

Upon visual inspection, I cannot see anything out of place or any obvious source of this sound.

My question is this: what are your suggestions for where to start when looking for a mysterious noise? Are there any, 'usual suspects' that ya'll can think of?

Hoooper

03-17-2021, 01:31 PM

Rock stuck between the pad and rotor is a quick and easy one to check, both for the regular brakes and parking brake

Papa

03-17-2021, 01:51 PM

I had some odd metal on metal noise on mine that I ultimately identified as the fuel tank moving around.

Dave

Pat427

04-09-2021, 12:22 PM

Updates

So I finally got around to getting into the garage to figure out where the mysterious noise was coming from. I took off the front passenger tire and looked things overs. There was a bolt that had backed out from the brake caliper. See pic below.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145966&d=1617988437

I tighten the bolt and put the tire back on.

While I had the tire off, I snapped a couple pictures and wanted to see if I had these bolts in the correct position? Is the red arrow or yellow arrow the correct position?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145967&d=1617988448

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145968&d=1617988459

Then I decided to adjust my steering column. The car was pulling a little to the left, so I took apart the column and rotated the column a few notched and re-assembled things.

Welp, as I was backing the car out of the garage in order to test drive and see if the mystery noise was gone, the steering column was locking up on me and I couldn't turn the wheel more than a few degrees. Crap.

Well, I had to tinker with the column for about an hour before I think I got it working again. No time to go for a drive because the wife is coming home and we've got a lot of house stuff to do.

Jeff Kleiner

04-09-2021, 12:28 PM

Those are jamb nuts so that the adjustments don't change. Yellow is the correct location on the control arm and red is the correct location on the tie rod. If you've had the car aligned the guy doing it should have locked them all down---obviously that was not done on the tie rod.

Jeff

Railroad

04-09-2021, 12:32 PM

The jam nut, yellow arrow on the tie rod end, needs to go against the tie rod end, red arrow.
Hold the tire rod and tighten the nut against it. You can put a little muscle on the nut. It needs to stay tight.
Check the other bolts on your brake calipers. That should not have been loose or an oversight.

Pat427

04-19-2021, 03:29 PM

Mystery Noise Continued

For those of you following along, I've been having a mystery noise coming from the right side of the vehicle. It was a grinding noise and usually only heard when I tugged the steering wheel to the right. I had a tough time localizing the source, but I'm happy to say that it's been solved.

Before I go any further, I would like to take a minute to thank Carl, aka BadAsp427. Carl is like the Cobra whisperer. I texted him the issue and within about 30 seconds he identified the source of the sound. Carl has been instrumental in my success to this point.

Ok, let's get back to the rest of the story. (FYI, I'm not totally familiar with the terminology of wheel alignment, so please bear with me.)

The mystery noise was a result of the spring on the shock rubbing against the inner part of the wheel. Basically, the camber was way off causing the tire to be tilted too much inward thus making contact with the spring. See pic below:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146553&d=1618862548

Before I fixed the camber, the tire looked like this:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146549&d=1618862485

After I fixed the issue, it now looks like this:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146550&d=1618862494

So now there is no more rubbing of the tire on the shock and the mystery noise is gone. Despite this victory, I still have a question for the forum with respect to the Camber adjustment.

When I adjusted the camber, there was an upper and lower adjustment that could be made. I made the majority of the fix by adjusting the upper arm, which basically consisted of my unscrewing the bung on the upper control arm, which made everything more upright. I also tightened the lower control arm a little bit to help in making the wheel more upright, but I didn't adjust the lower as much as I did the upper.

What concerned me was the number of exposed threads on the upper control arm. See pic below.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146552&d=1618862520

I'm worried the upper adjustment bung is too far unscrewed and might work it's way out completely, thus causing the upper control arm to fall off the frame.

The reason I think this is because when I look at the other side of the car, the upper adjustment bung isn't nearly as unscrewed. See pic:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146551&d=1618862506

The passenger side bung has like 8-10 threads showing, whereas the drivers side only has 4-5 threads showing.

Is this a problem?

Thanks,

Patrick

cv2065

04-19-2021, 04:47 PM

Sounds like you are in need of a professional alignment, get a better understanding of what they can and can't do, then go from there.

BadAsp427

04-20-2021, 09:20 PM

Please, take it to an alignment shop, asap. You are going to do more damage either to the suspension or your tires. The rear suspension has both camber and toe adjustments that need to be set. The front has Camber, Caster and Toe. Get your ride heights set to what you want, about 4.75-5.00" and then take it to the alignment shop.

Pat427

04-21-2021, 03:15 PM

Carl,

Yes, I took the car to the local Firestone today for an alignment appointment. Of course, when I got there, they said it could only be done by their master mechanic who wasn't available today. So, I have to return on Friday.

Pat427

06-29-2021, 10:42 AM

Lifts

Any recommendations on a good car lift?

I'd really like a lift that can also allow me to store a car longterm. I know Papa has the Bendpak, but I was curious if anyone has other recs?

460.465USMC

07-02-2021, 05:04 PM

Hi Pat. I also have a BendPak, but the four-post version. I bought it in 2016. It has a 9,000 lb max capacity (not that I will put 9,000 lbs on it). To me, the most important question to help narrow down your choices (other than safety) is how you plan to use it. You mentioned storage. If that's your primary intended use, then I highly recommend a four-post, as it will be the most stable (safety), and gives you area underneath it to store another vehicle. If your intention is mixed use (i.e. storage and vehicle maintenance), then I would recommend a two-post lift). Both types have their pros and cons, again, largely depending upon how you intend to use it. Feel free to PM me if you want any more info.

Another consideration is the AC power source. Many require 220VAC. If that's an issue in your situation, then look for one that will operate on 120 VAC (mine does - though Bendpak recommended 220 VAC). Running 220VAC to the lift location can be pretty expensive depending upon location of main electrical panel in relation to the lift, obstacles (i.e. attics, going underground, etc.), and whether you would run/wire it yourself.

P.S. Back when I was researching, my runner-up choice was Eagle lifts.

Hope this helps.

nucjd19

07-02-2021, 07:09 PM

Lifts

Any recommendations on a good car lift?

I'd really like a lift that can also allow me to store a car longterm. I know Papa has the Bendpak, but I was curious if anyone has other recs?

I have a challenger 2 post 10000 lbs lift CL10V3 (ALI/ETL certified.) with the extensions at the top to give more clearance. They are a little more than Bendpack but are built in the USA ( Kentucky ) and have a killer warranty and service. They did an amazing job installing mine. I could not recommend them more. They do a four post and many variations
https://www.challengerlifts.com/
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146511&d=1618787725

Pat427

05-18-2022, 03:19 PM

I'm still here

I'm still here. It's been awhile since I've been active on the forum, but I'm back.

Life has thrown more curveballs at me. My wife and I moved to Nebraska. That makes three moves since I started the build, which I strongly recommend against anyone doing.

I'm just now getting back into working on the car.

I've discovered a squealing noise coming from the serpentine system. It sounds like it's coming from the alternator pulley, but I'm not sure. Plus, it looks like the power steering pump pulley is wobbling. Any advice would be appreciated!

Cheers,
Pat

BadAsp427

05-18-2022, 11:20 PM

Pat, welcome back. First, check to see if the belt is tight. It should feel very tight. Push down on the longest stretch and you should not be able to move it more than about 1/8-1/4" and also in another good way to check the tension in a the serpentine belt is that it should not deflect more than ½ inch when twisted either way from the middle. If twisted more, the belt is loose, and if twisted less, the belt is too tight. If it is loose, try tightening it a bit and see if that takes care of the squeak. Also, did you have to jump start it after all this time? If so, you may just have a case of the alternator working hard and causing the possibly loose belt to slip a little. If you still see the pully on the PS wobbling, start by releasing the tension on the belt and see if you can feel/find any play in the pully you think is loose. Then (I'm guessing it wont be loose) Put the belt back on and be sure that the grooves in the belt are all in the correct grooves of the pully and retighten. This will get you started....

Now, when are you going to get it painted? How's the baby,,,, in college yet?

Pat427

05-19-2022, 07:27 AM

Hey Carl, good to hear from you. I'm excited to get back into the build. I've missed being in the garage and talking with people on this forum. No paint yet, but hopefully I can get that arranged this summer.
The kid is good. Growing like a weed.

Thanks for the advice on the belt and pulleys. I have some time tomorrow morning, so I'm gonna take a look at what you mentioned and will post my findings.

Pat427

06-03-2022, 09:05 AM

Squealing and Ceramic Coating Question

I replaced the serpentine belt, tightened it and the squeaky is still there. It's not a constant sound, instead it sorta comes and goes in a crescendo-decrescendo fashion. I'm taking the car into a mechanic in a couple weeks to have the alignment done again. The guy said he can look at what's causing the sound, so I'll likely just defer to an expert at this point.

Also, I was considering having my headers ceramic coated. Does anyone have thoughts on this move?

Thanks,
Patrick

Railroad

06-03-2022, 09:11 AM

Did you turn the individual pulleys while you have the belt off? It sounds like a bad bearing to me. Could be in the alt or an idler pulley.
I had an alt pulley that actually rubbed the alt case. It generated a squeak and a lot of heat on the alt case.
good luck,

Pat427

07-30-2022, 05:06 PM

BadAsp427

08-02-2022, 05:35 AM

So I ended up taking the car into a professional mechanic who played withe belts and got the squeaking to stop. He said it was too tight at the power steering pulley. I also had the alignment on the car re-done and had the oil changed.

I'm slowly getting back into the build.

More to come.

That is great news... FYI Pat, I'm going to be transporting a kit down to Katy TX from NY next week. Have you scheduled your paint work yet. Too bad I couldn't pick your up to take to GA with me on the way back. Either way. glad to see you are back at it. Carl