VAHokie's Roadster Build Thread - Body Fitment Questions

[VAHokie]

I'm approx. two weeks out from delivery on my MKIV complete kit, so I figured it's time to set-up the build thread, master the art of posting pics, and start documenting all my questions and the forum's great insights. I'll spare everyone the intro and build details as I already documented it here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?30278-New-Roadster-Builder) and my signature has most of the pertinent stuff. But I will share a pic from the Build School back in October and the "nursery' pic that Sally @ FFR (who is great BTW!) sent last Thursday (12/13).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=99265&d=1545276703

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=99264&d=1545275832

[John T]

Welcome to the club. First advice I was given I'll pass on to you. Inventory is really important. Check off everything and that will help you to find it when you need it. Enjoy the journey.

[Cruzzz]

Looks like we will have similar builds although you will have a 6-8 week head start. I should take delivery mid-February. Congratulations and look forward to reading about your build! Will be documenting my build here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?30687-Living-the-Dream-MKIV-Build).

[VAHokie]

Welcome to the club. First advice I was given I'll pass on to you. Inventory is really important. Check off everything and that will help you to find it when you need it. Enjoy the journey.

Thanks for the advice, John. I intend to do a thorough inventory before getting started.

[VAHokie]

Looks like we will have similar builds although you will have a 6-8 week head start. I should take delivery mid-February. Congratulations and look forward to reading about your build! Will be documenting my build here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?30687-Living-the-Dream-MKIV-Build).

Good to know, I'll be sure to follow your build since we'll be on similar tracks. Don't hesitate to reach out.

[Pat427]

Congrats! I just ordered my kit too. Completion date 2/2/19. I'll be following along your thread. Good luck.

[Cruzzz]

Congrats! I just ordered my kit too. Completion date 2/2/19. I'll be following along your thread. Good luck.

My completion date is also 2/2! Will you be doing a build thread?

[RJD]

Congrats Tony! Here comes the fun. I'm happy for you.

[Pat427]

My completion date is also 2/2! Will you be doing a build thread?

Yes, I'll be making a Build Thread. I'm going to wait until I get closer to delivery before I start it up. I'll be on this forum A LOT. Hopefully we can make it through with everyone's help!

[Fixit]

One thing with inventory that may help...
There's nut & bolt packs all over the place, in every box, loose with a number on them. During the inventory put the hardware kits in the box of a larger part they go with. I also Sharpie'd the "orphan" hardware bags with the original box number, and combined them in their own box... so now when I move along and there aren't any bolts, I look at my list and find the part # & box number, then go to my new "bolt box" and find the pack.

[VAHokie]

Thanks, Rocco!

[VAHokie]

One thing with inventory that may help...
There's nut & bolt packs all over the place, in every box, loose with a number on them. During the inventory put the hardware kits in the box of a larger part they go with. I also Sharpie'd the "orphan" hardware bags with the original box number, and combined them in their own box... so now when I move along and there aren't any bolts, I look at my list and find the part # & box number, then go to my new "bolt box" and find the pack.

Great advice - I'll definitely be borrowing that approach.

[BadAsp427]

Hey there. I did not want to steal Yamabro's thread so I'm over here on yours... LOL.... Seriously, on the dolly, I used the same plan that you have except I raised it up by adding a 4 x 6 along with the 4x4.... I used gorilla wood glue and some 7" lag bolts to attach the 4x4 and 4x6 ; It brought the bottom of my chassis up to 21" with the wheels that I got. HERE is my link to my build of the dolly (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29472-Carl-s-20th-Anniversary-8690-Preparing-to-Install-Body-for-Gel-Coat-Driving&p=336983&viewfull=1#post336983).... I LOVED it as it was very easy to get under and it was up high enough to work without bending over too much. I found it to be extremely sturdy as well. And it rolled around the garage like a dream... Hope this helps. I had some left over red floor epoxy that I coated it with as well... just a nice touch. Hope this helps.
99382 99384

[VAHokie]

Hey there. I did not want to steal Yamabro's thread so I'm over here on yours... LOL.... Seriously, on the dolly, I used the same plan that you have except I raised it up by adding a 4 x 6 along with the 4x4.... I used gorilla wood glue and some 7" lag bolts to attach the 4x4 and 4x6 ; It brought the bottom of my chassis up to 21" with the wheels that I got. HERE is my link to my build of the dolly (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29472-Carl-s-20th-Anniversary-8690-Preparing-to-Install-Body-for-Gel-Coat-Driving&p=336983&viewfull=1#post336983).... I LOVED it as it was very easy to get under and it was up high enough to work without bending over too much. I found it to be extremely sturdy as well. And it rolled around the garage like a dream... Hope this helps. I had some left over red floor epoxy that I coated it with as well... just a nice touch. Hope this helps.
99382 99384

Thanks, Carl. Dumb question, safe to assume you counter sunk the 7" lag bolts that held the 4x4 and 4x6 pieces together?

[BadAsp427]

Thanks, Carl. Dumb question, safe to assume you counter sunk the 7" lag bolts that held the 4x4 and 4x6 pieces together?

Yup.. just used the appropriate size wood bit (Paddle style) Worked great.... That's also why I ended up with the 4x4 on top.... FYI, pre drill with 3/8" bit and use 7/16" Lag bolts... good catch....

[VAHokie]

Still waiting on delivery but Stewart confirmed it should some time over the weekend. Not to worry though, plenty to keep me busy over the holidays in preparing for its arrival, including building the body buck and chassis dolly. Big thanks to Scottiec for donating his body buck, phileas_fogg for the chassis dolly casters, and BadAsp427 for the chassis dolly enhancement recommendation and confirming some measurements for me. Like so many have commented before, the willingness and generosity of this community are amazing.

For the chassis dolly, I used these plans (http://cobra.chrisarella.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Factory-Five-Roadster-MkIV-Chassis-Dolly-ChrisArella.pdf) but added a 4x6 to increase the height and an additional cross brace for some added support. Hopefully the increased height will help spare my back a bit during the build - we'll see.

Here's the body buck and chassis dolly:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100046&d=1546489820

And here's an up close of the chassis dolly so you can see the modifications:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100047&d=1546489835

[BadAsp427]

For the chassis dolly, I used these plans (http://cobra.chrisarella.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Factory-Five-Roadster-MkIV-Chassis-Dolly-ChrisArella.pdf) but added a 4x6 to increase the height and an additional cross brace for some added support. Hopefully the increased height will help spare my back a bit during the build - we'll see.



And here's an up close of the chassis dolly so you can see the modifications:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100047&d=1546489835

Looks really nice... great job, it will be a back saver...
Looks very familiar... Nice job... I will tell you that while I was working on my build, I found my self in the engine bay several times while the chassis was up on the dolly. I used the cross support to hold tools, rivets, perhaps a 12oz bev etc several times.... The extra cross brace you installed would have been in my way. And I really do not see where it would have helped me at all. You may find that you want to remove it and you should not have any problems if you do. That is of course if you tied the 4x4 and 4x6 together with a few lag bolts as we discussed.

[VAHokie]

Looks really nice... great job, it will be a back saver...
Looks very familiar... Nice job... I will tell you that while I was working on my build, I found my self in the engine bay several times while the chassis was up on the dolly. I used the cross support to hold tools, rivets, perhaps a 12oz bev etc several times.... The extra cross brace you installed would have been in my way. And I really do not see where it would have helped me at all. You may find that you want to remove it and you should not have any problems if you do. That is of course if you tied the 4x4 and 4x6 together with a few lag bolts as we discussed.

The cross brace may just end up being for peace of mind but it is setup for easy removal in case I need too. The 4x's are tied together with 8" lag screws but something about adding another 5.5" in height to the design and only having that lap joint at the bottom didn't sit right with me visually. Again, probably overkill but I'll feel more comfortable moving around underneath it. With this build and all components of it, its safety first, reliability second and performance third.

[Zuma737]

Hi Tony,
So the Stewart truck is loaded and rolls through NOVA tomorrow.
Warren the driver says he'll be at my house between 12 and 1:00. I'm not sure if that is the first stop.
You seem very well prepared. Build school too!
I'll be hanging out on this thread a bunch, soaking up knowledge.
And it begins!
Cheers,
Steve

[RJD]

Looks like you're ready to rock and roll!

[VAHokie]

Hi Tony,
So the Stewart truck is loaded and rolls through NOVA tomorrow.
Warren the driver says he'll be at my house between 12 and 1:00. I'm not sure if that is the first stop.
You seem very well prepared. Build school too!
I'll be hanging out on this thread a bunch, soaking up knowledge.
And it begins!
Cheers,
Steve

Hey Steve - spoke to Warren (driver) and it looks like I'm stop 3 of 3 so it'll be between 4-6 pm for me if I had to guess, possibly Sunday morning if he times out. He said Leesburg was first on the list so you'll be in business early afternoon when he gets in the area. Congrats and look forward to meeting up soon.

[PeteMeindl]

Things are looking great! Nice going. Warren was our driver and he was fantastic - super patient and helpful. Tell him hello from the connecticut Meindls! As BadAsp said, i also wind up in the engine bay a lot and use the dolly's cross support to hold all sorts of things and have found it a good place to sit while working on some pedal installation issues.

Nice prep work and we're excited for the arrival!

[VAHokie]

Things are looking great! Nice going. Warren was our driver and he was fantastic - super patient and helpful. Tell him hello from the connecticut Meindls! As BadAsp said, i also wind up in the engine bay a lot and use the dolly's cross support to hold all sorts of things and have found it a good place to sit while working on some pedal installation issues.

Nice prep work and we're excited for the arrival!

Hi, Pete. I let Warren know you said hi - what a great guy! Now with the frame on the dolly, I definitely see what you and BadAsp are talking about re: the cross brace. With it being removable, I should be able to quickly swap it in and out as needed, or until I get tired of that extra step every time I'm in there :D

[cv2065]

With that design of dolly (same as the one I had), just be careful when you are wheeling the dolly back into the garage once you have the car on it. If you have a lip on the front concrete pad of the garage and you slam the weight of the dolly into it, you can damage your dolly to where it can be unstable. Ask me how I know..:)

[VAHokie]

Well, it's real now! After a seamless delivery process with Warren from Stewart, a number of local builders, my dad and son, the roadster is finally home. Big thanks to phileas_fogg, craigs, jrcuz and zuma737 for lending a helping hand and then sticking around for a celebratory toast and discussion about the build process. I look forward to benefiting from the great wealth of knowledge and experience from these great guys (and those of this forum) as I embark on this journey. Here are a few pics from the delivery.

Stewart truck parked for unloading:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100257&d=1546783091

Car ready to be unloaded (there was a hot rod, GTM, coyote/trans package, and more next in line for delivery):
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100254&d=1546782856

Car in the garage (thanks again to BasAsp for the body buck dimensions to clear the increased height of the dolly - I had about 1" to spare):
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100255&d=1546783060

The mountain of boxes awaiting inventory and placement in storage:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100256&d=1546783073

[VAHokie]

With that design of dolly (same as the one I had), just be careful when you are wheeling the dolly back into the garage once you have the car on it. If you have a lip on the front concrete pad of the garage and you slam the weight of the dolly into it, you can damage your dolly to where it can be unstable. Ask me how I know..:)

Great advice and also the same thing phileas_fogg shared as we wheeled it into the garage and over the small lip I have for mine - I suspect he encountered the same learning experience you did. :)

[Zuma737]

Thanks again to VAHokie for the invite and to phileas_fogg, Craigs, and jrcuz for all the great info!

[GTBradley]

Don’t you feel like a kid again? Happy days.

[phileas_fogg]

Great advice and also the same thing phileas_fogg shared as we wheeled it into the garage and over the small lip I have for mine - I suspect he encountered the same learning experience you did. :)

Yup.

Congratulations again, Tony, and thanks for hosting!


John

[VAHokie]

Don’t you feel like a kid again? Happy days.

Indeed I do. About to start inventory - it'll be like ripping into boxes on xmas morning like a kid!

[GTBradley]

I just started to build and ran into a problem already. It's not a big problem but it slowed me down. Watch out for correct assembly by FFR on the upper control arms, they assembled mine upside down.

[edwardb]

Watch out for correct assembly by FFR on the upper control arms, they assembled mine upside down.

Common problem and talked about in multiple build threads. FFR doesn't assemble those. They are standard off-the-shelf parts currently from Specialty Products. As they come from SPC, the ball joint plates are "upside down" from how they need to be installed in our builds. The build manual explains how they should be oriented, and pictures them properly. But doesn't specifically say they need to be taken apart and reassembled to get them that way. Would be an easy enough add, but isn't there including in the latest version I've seen. Perhaps they're leaving out because this is a supplier specific thing. They've used other suppliers for these parts in the past.

[Zuma737]

Thank you GTBradley! I appreciate the heads up.

[VAHokie]

I just started to build and ran into a problem already. It's not a big problem but it slowed me down. Watch out for correct assembly by FFR on the upper control arms, they assembled mine upside down.

Thanks for the heads up GTBradley. I recall reading about this in a build thread and probably have it noted down in my notes, but will reach out with any questions if I run into any issues.

[VAHokie]

Logged a couple of hours doing inventory over the past couple of days and making some headway. Thought I would share some thoughts for those first time builders and then a few questions for those experienced ones.

Observations
1) Like so many have forewarned, the carpet is messy and coats everything within a 10 foot radius of wherever you unpack it. Be sure to do so in an area easy to clean, preferably outside. Also, each piece has its own part number in the packing list, but it doesn't always correspond with what's listed in the manual. This mostly applies to RH and LH pieces where one matches the number in the manual and the other doesn't. Not a big deal, just something to be prepared for.
2) While most of the boxes I've gone through have been some of the larger ones (to help clear space and feel like i'm making progress, at least visually), I did go through a couple that contained bolts, nuts, etc. One tool I saw recommended that has been very handy confirming the size of bolts is this (https://www.amazon.com/Metric-Thread-Colors-Choose-Listing/dp/B01GIQNLFA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1546922512&sr=8-4&keywords=stainlesstown+nut+bolt+screw+thread+gauge ). I also picked up this (https://www.amazon.com/Bolt-Thread-Checker-Inch-Metric/dp/B003FJW0GK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1546922595&sr=8-2&keywords=nut+and+bolt+thread+checker), but haven't had a need to use it yet.
3) The aluminum panels were mostly marked with their corresponding part #'s, but a few required some digging in the manual as the schematic in the front of the box isn't detailed enough to confirm. Not a big deal, just something to keep in mind and through process of elimination you can arrive at the answer.

Now for the questions:

Within one of the IRS boxes came across this piece and through process of elimination narrowed it down to the manual driveshaft adapter, spring collar and delrin spring washer, but hoping someone can confirm.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100313&d=1546921770

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100314&d=1546921779

Can someone confirm the three panels below are the fuse panel mount, front nose floor and left footbox top inside cover. Almost positive they are but want to confirm.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100311&d=1546921757

Finally, a carpet question, does someone know if the picture below is the LH footbox floor, outside/front?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100312&d=1546921763

[BadAsp427]

Now for the questions:

Within one of the IRS boxes came across this piece and through process of elimination narrowed it down to the manual driveshaft adapter, spring collar and delrin spring washer, but hoping someone can confirm.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100313&d=1546921770

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100314&d=1546921779

Can someone confirm the three panels below are the fuse panel mount, front nose floor and left footbox top inside cover. Almost positive they are but want to confirm.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100311&d=1546921757

Finally, a carpet question, does someone know if the picture below is the LH footbox floor, outside/front?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100312&d=1546921763

So you seem to have the aluminum pieces figured out and correct.

The disk is in fact your drive shaft to rear end coupler/adapter.

The carpet piece I'm not 100% sure about, but it looks like it could be the PS forward floor piece. I did my carpet a couple weeks ago and they became very evident as I was doing them where they went.

I'll tell you that the detailed inventory that you are doing now is going to pay you dividends later as you build. Good Job!!!

Carl

[phileas_fogg]

As Carl said, you'e got a drive shaft adapter (pay attention to the bolts as you fit it; some have been reported to be a thread or two too long), a right forward floor carpet piece, a pair of spring collars (lots of folks, including myself, don't use the set screws as they goon up the threads), an I-don't-know-what Delrin piece, radiator front aluminum, foot box access cover, and fuse panel mount. The fuse panel mount is for the donor fuse box; the Ron Francis harness comes with its own correctly-shaped panel mount & as I recall is in the RF box with the harness.


John

P.S. Good questions all around. I remember when I did my inventory I had to use process of elimination to figure out what the fuel filter was. Oh how much I've learned!

[VAHokie]

So you seem to have the aluminum pieces figured out and correct.

The disk is in fact your drive shaft to rear end coupler/adapter.

The carpet piece I'm not 100% sure about, but it looks like it could be the PS forward floor piece. I did my carpet a couple weeks ago and they became very evident as I was doing them where they went.

I'll tell you that the detailed inventory that you are doing now is going to pay you dividends later as you build. Good Job!!!

Carl

Thanks for the extra set of eyes, Carl. I agree with your comment on the inventory - it's great to take note of every piece, learn what's-what, and actually have the parts in my hands after only ever seeing them in build thread pics. I'm pushing through any part knowledge gaps now so that I can avoid delays when it comes time to start building.

[VAHokie]

As Carl said, you'e got a drive shaft adapter (pay attention to the bolts as you fit it; some have been reported to be a thread or two too long), a right forward floor carpet piece, a pair of spring collars (lots of folks, including myself, don't use the set screws as they goon up the threads), an I-don't-know-what Delrin piece, radiator front aluminum, foot box access cover, and fuse panel mount. The fuse panel mount is for the donor fuse box; the Ron Francis harness comes with its own correctly-shaped panel mount & as I recall is in the RF box with the harness.


John

P.S. Good questions all around. I remember when I did my inventory I had to use process of elimination to figure out what the fuel filter was. Oh how much I've learned!

Thanks, John. I have to believe the Delrin spring washer goes with the spring collar as that's how it was packed and I encountered the same part packed with the front suspension this evening. What's interesting is that this washer is rubber and the other spring washer I came across in inventory with the steering shaft was metal - I guess they come in different material types.

[JohnK]

Thanks for the build thread. This is all great information! I'm a few weeks behind you. My kit had a 12/22 complete date, so as Sally says, my "baby is in the nursery" waiting for Stewart to pick it up. Per my last discussion with Stewart, it should be picked up late this week or early next week and then it will start its long journey to the west coast. I'll be keeping tabs on your progress. Good luck!

[VAHokie]

Thanks for the build thread. This is all great information! I'm a few weeks behind you. My kit had a 12/22 complete date, so as Sally says, my "baby is in the nursery" waiting for Stewart to pick it up. Per my last discussion with Stewart, it should be picked up late this week or early next week and then it will start its long journey to the west coast. I'll be keeping tabs on your progress. Good luck!

Glad this info helps! If you haven't already, ask Sally to send a nursery pic to add to your photo library. There's something about seeing your name, on your car that makes it feel real - at least it did for me.

[JohnK]

Glad this info helps! If you haven't already, ask Sally to send a nursery pic to add to your photo library. There's something about seeing your name, on your car that makes it feel real - at least it did for me.

Already done! ;)

100369

[VAHokie]

I continue to work through inventory, averaging 1-2 hours a night. My hope is to be done by the end of the weekend, which will be a week after delivery and consistent with what others have shared it took them to complete it. I'll be able to start the actual build, or should I say tear down process? I tackled the Fuel Tank and eBrake boxes last night (as well as a few others) and wanted to run a few things by the group:

I believe these are the 3/8-5/16" and 1/4" fuel line connectors, but would like to confirm. It's not entirely clear in the instructions where these go, but in reviewing the pics in the manual it appears they attach to either end of the fuel filter - does that sound right?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100449&d=1547178390

I also have two hoses, one is clearly the nylon fuel line that connects the filter with the tank (Part Name: Tank to Filter Fuel Line Assembly), and the other is Part Name: 1/4" ID, High Pressure Flexible Fuel Line. Can someone confirm where this goes?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100447&d=1547178359

In the eBrake parts, I had two leftover items that weren't on the actual parts list: a wing nut and washer. Did anyone else receive these?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100448&d=1547178370

[jrcuz]

Hi Tony, I just thought that when you get your engine and trans you will need to dial indicate your bell housing. It is very easy to do with the proper tools. When I got my eng/trans from Mike Forte I confirmed with him he doesn't do this. There are several videos on youtube, check out american powertrain for their video. As they say if you don't do this step and you have trans bearing problems down the road your trans is not covered under tremec's warranty. I have the dial gauge to do it with or you may be able to get one on loan from an auto parts store. I bought mine and a magnetic base from Harbor Freight for cheap money.
Good progress on your inventory.
Jerry

[phileas_fogg]

Hey Tony,

Regarding the fuel system parts, where they go (and if you'll even use them) will be dictated by your engine choices (EFI vs carb; internal electric vs external electric vs mechanical fuel pump, etc.). I didn't use the nylon fuel line because it was too short to get from the tank to my fuel filter location. I did use the quick connects and the provided rubber hose for my EFI system. In other words, you'll soon have a "Parts Not Used" box, and have to make up the rest as you go.

Regarding the wing nut & fender washer, I don't recall seeing those. But make a note where they're located so if you come up short somewhere you don't have to make a trip to Fastenal.


John

NOTE: If you go with an EFI system, make sure whatever fuel filter you use meets the EFI specification. An EFI system expecting 10u filtration won't last long if all you've got is a 15u filter.

[VAHokie]

Hi Tony, I just thought that when you get your engine and trans you will need to dial indicate your bell housing. It is very easy to do with the proper tools. When I got my eng/trans from Mike Forte I confirmed with him he doesn't do this. There are several videos on youtube, check out american powertrain for their video. As they say if you don't do this step and you have trans bearing problems down the road your trans is not covered under tremec's warranty. I have the dial gauge to do it with or you may be able to get one on loan from an auto parts store. I bought mine and a magnetic base from Harbor Freight for cheap money.
Good progress on your inventory.
Jerry

Hey, Jerry. I appreciate the reminder on this. I recall you mentioning that during my visit to see your build and actually have it noted in my discussion notes. Still a bit out from this step, but I'll be sure to connect when the time comes.

[VAHokie]

Hey Tony,

Regarding the fuel system parts, where they go (and if you'll even use them) will be dictated by your engine choices (EFI vs carb; internal electric vs external electric vs mechanical fuel pump, etc.). I didn't use the nylon fuel line because it was too short to get from the tank to my fuel filter location. I did use the quick connects and the provided rubber hose for my EFI system. In other words, you'll soon have a "Parts Not Used" box, and have to make up the rest as you go.

Regarding the wing nut & fender washer, I don't recall seeing those. But make a note where they're located so if you come up short somewhere you don't have to make a trip to Fastenal.


John

NOTE: If you go with an EFI system, make sure whatever fuel filter you use meets the EFI specification. An EFI system expecting 10u filtration won't last long if all you've got is a 15u filter.

Great info, John, and appreciate the heads-up on the fuel filter specification. I intend to go the carb route and will be sure to confirm that what I have will be sufficient or if I need to swap it out with something else.

[phileas_fogg]

Also, when you find your fan, look up the current draw for whatever manufacturer / model you have. Mine was a Maradyne fan that only draws 12-15A. I replaced the 30A fuse in the Ron Francis fuse box with a 20A to better match the expected load. And if you replace the fan's spade connectors with Weatherpak, note that typically the latter are rated to 20A so you'll want a 20A fuse anyway.


John

[VAHokie]

Also, when you find your fan, look up the current draw for whatever manufacturer / model you have. Mine was a Maradyne fan that only draws 12-15A. I replaced the 30A fuse in the Ron Francis fuse box with a 20A to better match the expected load. And if you replace the fan's spade connectors with Weatherpak, note that typically the latter are rated to 20A so you'll want a 20A fuse anyway.


John

Hey, John.

Unpacked the radiator fan and it's a Faz Elektrik M162K-F. Upon googling it, it took me to the Maradyne website (http://www.maradynehp.com/m162k.html) and it appears we probably have a similar fan, although mine draws 18a. What advantage does lowering the fuse rating from 30 to 20 to more closely align with the expected load? Wouldn't it be better to have a higher rated fuse to allow for a little wiggle room? Admittedly, the electrical components of the build are where I feel most deficient, so apologize for what may be a noob question.

[VAHokie]

One question for the group and a request for confirmation on two parts. Thanks in advance to all who can share some insight!

First the question: In the Fuel Line components section, it states you should receive two brass barbed fittings, one 1/4" and the other 5/16". Located both (see below), but the one on the left isn't barbed, it's actually a clamp style fitting. Will this be an issue?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100704&d=1547429115

Now for the parts confirmation: Can someone confirm these two parts are the LH/RH Pin Mount Plate, Front, 1/16" Steel?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100705&d=1547429124

And can you someone confirm these are the 3/16" Steel Door Latch Spacers?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100703&d=1547429106

[Houdini]

did all your parts come in the boxes they told you?? could not find some of mein and it looks like they had 5 open boxs and
just threw stuff into whatever box had room
I thought some stuff was missing and found it in other boxes hope to get a assistant to help inventory it
I took a HF 30 in moving dolly and moved the frame to work site put wood on it and 2 8 in planks and it worked fine
think building a truck is gonna be a real adventure

[phileas_fogg]

The fuse keeps the wire from melting and potentially causing a fire in the case of current overload. You do need some wiggle room; I believe 10-15% over the anticipated load is the rule of thumb.

In my case, the Weatherpak connectors I used were rated to 20A (you can get higher rated Weatherpaks; you just have to look for them). If I'd left the 30A fuse in place, the actual fuse would have been the connector. Since swapping the spade connectors for Weatherpaks is a common upgrade, and you've got easy access to the fan now, it's an easy decision / change to make.


John

P.S. Yes, you've got door latch spacers. The other brackets must be for the hood pins; I had them left over since I used the gas struts. I don't see the picture of the fuel line fittings.

[VAHokie]

The fuse keeps the wire from melting and potentially causing a fire in the case of current overload. You do need some wiggle room; I believe 10-15% over the anticipated load is the rule of thumb.

In my case, the Weatherpak connectors I used were rated to 20A (you can get higher rated Weatherpaks; you just have to look for them). If I'd left the 30A fuse in place, the actual fuse would have been the connector. Since swapping the spade connectors for Weatherpaks is a common upgrade, and you've got easy access to the fan now, it's an easy decision / change to make.


John

P.S. Yes, you've got door latch spacers. The other brackets must be for the hood pins; I had them left over since I used the gas struts. I don't see the picture of the fuel line fittings.

Thanks, John. Updated the pic above to the fittings.

[VAHokie]

did all your parts come in the boxes they told you?? could not find some of mein and it looks like they had 5 open boxs and
just threw stuff into whatever box had room
I thought some stuff was missing and found it in other boxes hope to get a assistant to help inventory it
I took a HF 30 in moving dolly and moved the frame to work site put wood on it and 2 8 in planks and it worked fine
think building a truck is gonna be a real adventure

Sorry to hear about your experience with the inventory. I've actually had the opposite experience with almost every part being where they said it would be and most everything accounted for (very few things missing). I couldn't imagine having to go on a scavenger hunt for parts - it would have increased the inventory two fold.

Congrats on being one of the early builders for the truck. I look forward to seeing the finished product.

[Boydster]

Fuel line fittings: The one with the bump is still considered a barb, just a different kind. Still takes a push-on hose.

Pin mount plates, yes, for hood pins, if you choose to use them. Most dont on todays builds.

Door Latch spacers. Yep.

[VAHokie]

Fuel line fittings: The one with the bump is still considered a barb, just a different kind. Still takes a push-on hose.

Pin mount plates, yes, for hood pins, if you choose to use them. Most dont on todays builds.

Door Latch spacers. Yep.

Thanks for confirming and good to know. Just saved me some $ not having them PC'd.

[VAHokie]

Completed the box inventory over the weekend and moved onto the mounted components this evening. Nice to be in the garage and actually working with tools on the disassembly vs. checking boxes on paper, although there was still some of that as the various trunk and door hinges were pulled off and accounted for. I did encounter some minor damage to the fiberglass for the hood and a door (see first three pics below). Interested to get those that are familiar with the bodywork process if these are non-issues and I should just move on, or include it in my missing/damaged parts note to FFR. Based on the part lines and other areas of the body I'm sure they're a non-issue, but I'd rather be sure (hopefully one of the Jeff's can chime in here!).

I also had my first d'oh moment as I realized that the position of my frame on the chassis dolly places the cross braces connecting the 4" tubes right up against the rear trans mount holes. For those of you that have attended the build school, you'll recall that the trans mount is the first piece that they instruct you to put in as they claim it's easier now than later when the manual instructs you too. Not an issue, just need to adjust how the frame is resting on the dolly, but I really had my heart set on putting on my first part tonight. Good reminder to slow down and think things through.

This pic shows a dimple in the hood in one of the upper corners.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100816&d=1547695480

Here are three pics of fiberglass damage to the hood (first two) and one of the doors (third pic), respectively.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100815&d=1547695469

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100814&d=1547695460

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100813&d=1547695452

And finally a pic of the chassis dolly and trans mount interference.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100817&d=1547696051

[edwardb]

I've never been accused of being a body and paint guy. But I've personally repaired damage/defects a lot worse than that. Very easily fixed (typically with 3M HSRF) and no big deal. You should have seen some of the earlier bodies. :p

[VAHokie]

I've never been accused of being a body and paint guy. But I've personally repaired damage/defects a lot worse than that. Very easily fixed (typically with 3M HSRF) and no big deal. You should have seen some of the earlier bodies. :p

Thanks, Paul. Figured the gouges were fine as they can be filled, sanded, etc. - more concerned about the dimple in the hood. Almost like there's a foreign object stuck in the fiberglass.

[Houdini]

grind it and concave it and fill with glass matt and resin if you go through put duct tape behind , after its cured grind and sand to fit curve of panel A da sander or air file can be used and HF has tools that will do it , its dirty and messey is a real problem
after that it time to finish prime and spot putty or whatever to get it paint ready , anything that your hand can feel will show in finished product

[Jeff Kleiner]

No worries about your body panels by what I can see in the pics.

RE: Trans mount; I do it differently than the build school guys and don't install it until the engine and transmission go in. Different strokes...

Jeff

[VAHokie]

No worries about your body panels by what I can see in the pics.

RE: Trans mount; I do it differently than the build school guys and don't install it until the engine and transmission go in. Different strokes...

Jeff

Thanks for confirming, Jeff. I won't lose any more sleep over it.

[VAHokie]

Small but important milestones reached this past weekend as I received half of my POL items from FFR, officially completed the inventory, including all the mounted body components, and pulled the body off and placed it up onto the body buck. I had the non-mounted body components inventoried two weekends ago and was toying with the idea of sending in my list of missing/damaged parts to FFR, but opted to hold off until everything was completed. Glad I did as there were a few additional things I uncovered worth including in my note. Re: inventory, hats off to Paul @ FFR who packed my parts as everything was where the packing list said it would be and there were a limited number of missing and damaged pieces. For those who will be tackling the inventory process soon, I recommend taking your time to document and count every part, familiarize yourself with what it is and where it goes. As others have said and I'll now second after going through the inventory, it will pay dividends months down the road when you're in build mode.

Prior to removing the body, I took a sharpie pen, held it flush against the underside of the body and traced along the firewall panel, PS firewall extension panel, and rear backwall to ensure I had the recommended 3/8" gap for the bulb seal. Only two places appear to require trimming: the DS of the rear backwall and the PS firewall extension panel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101026&d=1548109914

You can see the contact looking at the DS backwall and then you'll see the line created with the sharpie.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101030&d=1548109943

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101028&d=1548109928

Here's the PS firewall extension panel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101031&d=1548109956

[VAHokie]

With the body off, I was able to spend some time looking over the panel fitment. My plan is to get all of the panels fit where they'll be permanently installed at the appropriate time in the build process so that I can eventually get everything PC'd at one time. Surprisingly, aside from a few areas, the fitment is pretty good and may not require too much adjustment to get them to their final position. I did notice two areas where a weld interferes with a panel sitting flush to the frame, specifically the PS F panel and PS outside trunk wall. Like others, I'll notch the panels to sit flush. I'm also taking a page out of a few build threads by creating interior side panels for the upper trunk area on both the DS and PS to give it a more finished look and help with carpet placement. I took measurements and plan to transfer them onto construction paper for a test fit before the final transfer to a piece of .040 aluminum. If anyone has any interest in those measurements as a starting point for doing the same in their build, shoot me a PM.

Here's a pic of the weld interference on the PS F panel, which you can see from the dimple just below and to the left of the screw.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101033&d=1548109972

Here's a pic of the gap created by the weld interference on the PS outside trunk wall.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101036&d=1548110284

[Zuma737]

Alright, parts on the frame... Thanks VAHokie and fixit for the heads up on alignment. I'll drive off that bridge when I come to it... Wait, bad metaphor..

101327

[VAHokie]

Alright, parts on the frame... Thanks VAHokie and fixit for the heads up on alignment. I'll drive off that bridge when I come to it... Wait, bad metaphor..

101327

Good progress, Steve. What did you use to paint your F panel?

[Zuma737]

I used Krylon automotive premium enamel just to try on a place that will be hidden

[Zuma737]

Here is a better photo of the UCA. I did flip the ball joint mount over. Looks like mine came from a different vendor. So did I flip one that came correct already?

[phileas_fogg]

Here is a better photo of the UCA. I did flip the ball joint mount over. Looks like mine came from a different vendor. So did I flip one that came correct already?

The axis of the ball joint points out from the car at the bottom, so the one in your photograph is correct.


John

[Jeff Kleiner]

The UCA on both sides need to be assembled with the ball joint plate oriented to angle the joint outward and so that the grease fittings on the crossbar links point up. This will result in the welded, fixed end being to the front on the driver's side and to the rear on the passenger side.

Jeff

[Zuma737]

Thanks Jeff and John!

[VAHokie]

Disassembly Continues - Aluminum Panels

It’s been awhile since I last posted, but work continues on getting panels fitted and trimmed (to address weld interference). I’ve been working my way from the back of the car to the front, getting the exact placement and tracing the underside as guides for rivet placement. While I was pulling the trunk pieces off, I took the opportunity to grind down the weld in the back, as well as on the PS where the F panel had interference. I wasn’t planning on grinding these, but after further inspection it appears notching the panels for relief would result in holes in the panels and, more importantly, there was extra weld material so I figured a little haircut wouldn’t hurt it. Here’s the weld before the trim.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101538&d=1548984998

And now after. Any suggestions for what to cover up the exposed metal with that matches the satin black PC of the frame?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101539&d=1548985020

There were two other places that required a panel trim, one on the DS cockpit floor towards the back to provide relief for a weld so it would sit flat and the other being the PS trans tunnel side wall as it slightly extended past the top edge as you moved towards the front of the car. No amount of adjusting would get it to sit flush. I think a few others have experienced this same thing on their build, so not going to lose any sleep over it.

One thing I noticed in positioning the cockpit backwall is that there’s a 1/16 difference in the gap between the left and right seatbelt slots. Normally wouldn’t worry about this, but the fact that the body rests on this, I’ve been stewing over it. I’ve finally made peace believing that the bulb seal will help address any slight inconsistencies, but let me know if anyone disagrees.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101534&d=1548984825

I spent about 3 hours on the DS footbox playing around with panel position to get it right (OCD was getting the better of me!). In doing so, I have a couple of holes in the panel that will not be used that will require filling – any suggestions? The only remaining issue with the footbox is that there’s a gap created on the inside of the engine bay towards the back of the DS footbox. Anyone else encounter this same issue?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101535&d=1548984838

[VAHokie]

UCA and IRS Knuckle Mods

In addition to the aluminum panels, I also had the opportunity to make adjustments to the UCA sleeves to help ensure I’ll be able to get the 7 degrees of positive caster when it’s time for alignment. Big thanks to CraigS for giving up his Sunday afternoon so we could use his lathe to make the sleeve cuts.

I won’t go into the details of the mod as others have already done an exceptional job explaining it (see Fixit’s build thread (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27544-The-40-Watt-Garage-9365-Wheel-Alignment/page7&highlight=fixit), post #273 and on). Like John, I applied some anti-seize to each sleeve before buttoning them up. Also took the time to flip the ball joint mount while I had everything apart.

This pic shows the welded, fixed ends positioned to the front of the DS and the rear of the PS (indicated by the circles) and the two sleeves that were trimmed (indicated by arrows). Note: you only trim the rear sleeves on each side.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101542&d=1548988656

And here’s a close-up of the DS.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101543&d=1548988680

While at CraigS’s, we also used his band saw to cut the ears off the IRS knuckles, a step I wasn’t particularly looking forward to doing with a sawzall and gladly took him up on his offer. I’ll clean these up with acetone and apply some clear engine enamel for protection.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101548&d=1548989585

The divot you see in this pic is the remnants of the right screw hole of the two you cut between.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101549&d=1548989592

[jrcuz]

Good progress Tony and great decision getting your ears trimmed with Craigs's band saw.
JR

[phileas_fogg]

Very nice progress Tony.

Regarding the "extra" holes, you can add a rivet or a short screw & nut to fill them. By the time you cover with insulation & carpet, you'll never know. (Don't tell anyone, but my front foot box panel has a 1/2" bolt & washer covering that extra hole inboard of the steering shaft bearing). ;)


John

[VAHokie]

Good progress Tony and great decision getting your ears trimmed with Craigs's band saw.
JR


Very nice progress Tony.

Regarding the "extra" holes, you can add a rivet or a short screw & nut to fill them. By the time you cover with insulation & carpet, you'll never know. (Don't tell anyone, but my front foot box panel has a 1/2" bolt & washer covering that extra hole inboard of the steering shaft bearing). ;)


John

Thanks, Jerry and John! Hope to have everything marked and pulled off the car tonight so that I can begin drilling.

[Yama-Bro]

Making some good progress. Keep it up. Your thread was the first time I read the term "nursery" for our cars. I like that. LOL.

[Fixit]

I won’t go into the details of the mod as others have already done an exceptional job explaining it (see Fixit’s build thread (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27544-The-40-Watt-Garage-9365-Wheel-Alignment/page7&highlight=fixit), post #273 and on). Like John, I applied some anti-seize to each sleeve before buttoning them up. Also took the time to flip the ball joint mount while I had everything apart.

101804

(Cutting the IRS knuckles is a job pretty high on the "pucker factor" scale. It can be done many ways, but a metal-cutting bandsaw is the way to go!)

[JohnK]

Cutting the IRS knuckles is a job pretty high on the "pucker factor" scale. It can be done many ways, but a metal-cutting bandsaw is the way to go!

I totally agree. When I cut mine, I did a test cut further up on the arm with a metal cutting blade on my Sawzall. The blade skipped around a lot before finally biting, and then made a pretty ugly jagged cut before finally killing the blade a third of the way through. I put a metal cutting blade on my bandsaw and cut through it like butter. You can see the first test cut with the Sawzall in the photo, then a second test cut with the band saw, and then the final cut with the band saw. Much less of a puckerfest with the right tool.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101809&d=1549472186

[VAHokie]

Making some good progress. Keep it up. Your thread was the first time I read the term "nursery" for our cars. I like that. LOL.

I can't take credit for that. Sally at FFR referenced it and I thought it was fitting.

[VAHokie]

Nothing too noteworthy to post since my last update as my time to work on the car has been limited, but I did manage to get a solid 6 hours this past Saturday to begin fitting and drilling panels. I managed to get both F panels, DS and PS footboxes, firewall, and trans tunnel front vertical wall positioned and drilled (see below). Work will continue this week on the cockpit floors and hopefully finish all fitment/drilling by the end of next week. I still need to pick up an aluminum sheet to fabricate the two upper trunk side walls and possibly a piece along the back trunk wall (still TBD). I also made a trip to FFMetals to pick-up one of their trans tunnel covers as I plan to do a mid-shift and have no interest in having an uneven surface with aluminum patches. It's a nice a high quality piece and Bill's a great guy. Spent a solid 45 minutes talking shop, sharing tips/tricks, etc.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102854&d=1551233779

[jrcuz]

Looks good Tony. John, Craig, Henry (another builder) my brother and Dave (old friend) were able to do the first body fitting yesterday, looks pretty good.
JR

[phileas_fogg]

Well well well...I was beginning to wonder if you'd abandoned this thread!

Good to know you're making progress.


John

[GoDadGo]

L-L-Looking Good!
Please keep in mind that CLECO FASTENERS are your best friend at this stage of your build.
Also, make sure to run and install your rear electrical harness, fuel and brake lines before you permanently install the pans.
It makes life a lot easier if you do.
Good Luck From The Dark-Dart Side!

[VAHokie]

Looks good Tony. John, Craig, Henry (another builder) my brother and Dave (old friend) were able to do the first body fitting yesterday, looks pretty good.
JR

Congrats, JR! Big milestone.

[VAHokie]

Well well well...I was beginning to wonder if you'd abandoned this thread!

Good to know you're making progress.

John

Slow,progress, but its progress!

[VAHokie]

L-L-Looking Good!
Please keep in mind that CLECO FASTENERS are your best friend at this stage of your build.
Also, make sure to run and install your rear electrical harness, fuel and brake lines before you permanently install the pans.
It makes life a lot easier if you do.
Good Luck From The Dark-Dart Side!

Thanks, GoDadGo. I'm putting the 50 I have to work, that's for sure. No panels will be installed for awhile and certainly not before the pieces you referenced go on.

[VAHokie]

Panel fitment is 95% complete and before wrapping it up, I wanted to fabricate a few aluminum pieces: firewall brace and upper trunk inside panels. Nothing too crazy here, but enjoyed doing these mods to add some rigidity to the firewall and improve the finish in the trunk. For the firewall brace, I used the provided DS front footbox panel that isn't used as it already had the flanges to butt up against the firewall.

Here's the panel ready for the first cut - placed painters tape down to avoid scuffing the aluminum.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104351&d=1553475553

And the finished piece installed. Still need to drill a couple of holes to allow for the wiring harness to pass through.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104354&d=1553475572

For the upper trunk inside panels, I ordered a 2' x 2' piece of 6061-T6 aluminum from Aircraft Spruce which was enough to cut three of the panels, allowing a little margin for error (little foreshadowing here). I then traced the previously made template onto the aluminum and proceeded to make the cuts.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104355&d=1553475580

After cutting the DS, I attempted to install it and had the hardest time getting it into place, eventually conceding defeat and cutting the panel in two to slide in from different directions. Here's a pic of the two panels installed - note the vertical cut behind the roll bar mount.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104356&d=1553475588

After drilling and clecoing it in place, it dawned on me that to install this panel you can simply push it in up against the side from the interior vs. trying to slide it from the front to the back (as I was doing before). Duh! This required a few extra cuts, specifically creating a slot for the roll bar mount to slide through, but easy enough. I applied this approach to the PS and voila - success!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104357&d=1553475601

Satisfied with this new approach, I used the remaining material of the 2' x 2' and fabricated another DS panel. I know, I know... it'll be covered by carpet and no one will ever know if I had kept the original in there, but I would and that was reason enough to spend the extra time to do it right.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104358&d=1553475607

Next weekend I'll tackle the RT drop trunk mod and that should bring the panel fitment process to end. I'll then pull everything off, deburring the holes as I go, inventory everything, and begin the process of getting quotes for PC. I was definitely in the PC everything camp in the beginning, but the more time I'm spending with the panels, the more I may just PC those that will be visible in the engine bay. A key driver will be the cost.

[jrcuz]

Good work Tony, I'm jealous. I just spent the week-end getting my rear bumper fitted-up.
JR

[phileas_fogg]

Hey Tony, are you planning to install a heater? If so, you may find that the 3/4" brace for the dash hoop interferes with the heater body. If so, the easiest solution is to cut out the brace...which means you'll have to rethink your aluminum firewall brace. :(


John

[BadAsp427]

Hey Tony, are you planning to install a heater? If so, you may find that the 3/4" brace for the dash hoop interferes with the heater body. If so, the easiest solution is to cut out the brace...which means you'll have to rethink your aluminum firewall brace. :(


John

Or move the heater a bit outboard. It is very close, but fits as the template indicates but one of the air outlets comes out right at the 3/4" tubing support. It will work, but very tight.

[VAHokie]

Hey Tony, are you planning to install a heater? If so, you may find that the 3/4" brace for the dash hoop interferes with the heater body. If so, the easiest solution is to cut out the brace...which means you'll have to rethink your aluminum firewall brace. :(


Or move the heater a bit outboard. It is very close, but fits as the template indicates but one of the air outlets comes out right at the 3/4" tubing support. It will work, but very tight.

No heater planned for the build, just heated seats, so I should be good to go. Appreciate the input though and hopefully it will benefit another builder considering the heater install.

[VAHokie]

After a six week hiatus I got back into the garage this past weekend to pick back up with final panel fitment and to tackle the Russ Thompson drop trunk kit. The kit is high quality and the instructions provided by Russ are very detailed. I still need to do some final trimming on the DS and PS edges (~1/8"), clean up some of the cuts for the cross brace clearance, and drill the holes to mate the drop trunk with the lower trunk floor. Cautionary words for those that are doing this mod: Be sure to follow the instructions about placing the rivet holes close to the edge of the flanges instead of in the center, as well as not placing the corner rivet holes too far into the corner. In both cases, doing so could make it hard to get your rivet gun into position. It's called out in the instructions, but worth repeating. For my application, I needed the corner rivets 11/16" in to account for my rivet gun. Also, Russ provides some rough marks for cutting the cross brace clearance. The one on the rear and PS were pretty close, but the one at the forward DS was off. In fact the relief required ran right through the corner. In looking at a couple of other recent builds, this appears to be true for others. Here's a couple of pics:

View of the holes close to the flange edge. I don't believe i'll have any issues with the rivets seating, but we shall see.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106903&d=1557279183

Completed trunk. You can see where the DS forward brace clearance is right in the corner of the box.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106849&d=1557194151

Lower trunk installed right after making the cuts.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106846&d=1557192747

Here's a bird's eye view.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106847&d=1557192757

Drop trunk clamped into position.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106848&d=1557192775

View from the PS bottom.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106851&d=1557194171

View from the DS bottom.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106852&d=1557194178

[JohnK]

Very nice! Thanks for all the tips on the RT drop trunk. I'm right behind you and will be tackling all the sheet metal shortly so I appreciate all the pointers.

[jrcuz]

Nice work Tony!
JR

[VAHokie]

Very nice! Thanks for all the tips on the RT drop trunk. I'm right behind you and will be tackling all the sheet metal shortly so I appreciate all the pointers.

Thanks, John. Reach out with any questions; although I'm sure you'll be just fine.


Nice work Tony!
JR

Thanks, Jerry. Shoot me a PM when you have some time - would love to hear how the finishing touches on the build are going.

[BadAsp427]

Tony, You are coming right along... Won't be all that long now before you'll be looking back and thinking.... That wasn't so bad!!!

[VAHokie]

Hit a big milestone tonight, as embarrassing as it might be, when I pseudo-installed my first parts on the car almost 5 moths to the day of receiving the kit. I say pseudo because they're not tightened down pending input from the forum, but more on that in a minute. I've spent the past couple of build days cataloging all of the parts needing (read: I wanted to have) powder coated and creating an ~100 page RFQ to be sent out to local shops. I'm not sure what friends-and-family discounts you guys are getting, or if the currency exchange rate is better where you live, but my quotes are coming back much higher than expected or budgeted (what budget?!?). I'll need to rethink my approach here, but glad I did the work so I have all the information to make a decision. On a side note, I have a nice document that outlines each parts name, part #, approx. size, picture, side notes, etc. if anyone wants a copy to do the same.

First part installed was the A Frame Transmission Mount. Why? Because at the build school they tell you to do this first before you have to contend with other parts that get in the way if you follow the sequence in the book. Before tightening everything down, curious if 1) these need to have Loctite applied to them and 2) for those who are running a TKO600, will placing it on top of the frame tabs allow enough room or does it need to be installed to the bottom of the frame tabs?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108752&d=1560389187

Next up was the Kleiner Mod to avoid having to drop the gas tank to get to the quick jack bolts. Despite searching all the usual suspects for the three different parts needed (coupling nuts, bolts, washers), I couldn't find one location that had everything, so I simply ordered them online at Bolt Depot. Hate paying $5 in shipping for $10 in parts, but I would have spent that driving around cobbling the parts together. Anyone have any luck painting the zinc-plated steel coupling nuts? Thinking in can scuff them up and apply some rattle can to them.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108741&d=1560383943

Here's a pic of the installed Kleiner Mod, from the rear of the car
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108759&d=1560390347

I also spent some time mocking up the LCA's. As others have reported, I'll need to spread some of the tabs to get them installed.

Here's the PS Front, which will require a spacer - thoughts on whether this should be placed against the front or rear tab, or does it not matter?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108757&d=1560389240

Here's the PS Rear, which will also require a spacer - same question as above, does placement matter?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108758&d=1560389247

Here's the DS Front, which won't require a spacer, but will need to be spread ever so slightly with the threaded rod method. My type A, OCD stresses about this one not needing a spacer where all of the others do.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108755&d=1560389226

And here's the DS Rear, which will also require a spacer.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108756&d=1560389233

[Cruzzz]

On powder coating, I had all the aluminum panels and smaller laser cut pieces (aluminum and steel) done for ~$800 for reference. This was also in four different trips. Most of the top side of the panels will be covered but for the minor cost compared to the overall build I like the finished look and protectant.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I also spent some time mocking up the LCA's. As others have reported, I'll need to spread some of the tabs to get them installed.

Here's the PS Front, which will require a spacer - thoughts on whether this should be placed against the front or rear tab, or does it not matter?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108757&d=1560389240

Here's the PS Rear, which will also require a spacer - same question as above, does placement matter?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108758&d=1560389247

Here's the DS Front, which won't require a spacer, but will need to be spread ever so slightly with the threaded rod method. My type A, OCD stresses about this one not needing a spacer where all of the others do.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108755&d=1560389226

And here's the DS Rear, which will also require a spacer.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108756&d=1560389233

The shims go in the rear between the LCA and forward tab.

Jeff

[cv2065]

I paid $500 for all the panels to be PC’d. I think counting everything it was 70 plus pieces. You just have to re drill the holes on some panels to remove some of the PC when riveting. I put the A frame in after I had the trans installed (supported by a jack). I put the A frame on top of the tabs so it could sit in place by itself. I didn’t put any loctite on the bolts with nylock nuts.

[VAHokie]

On powder coating, I had all the aluminum panels and smaller laser cut pieces (aluminum and steel) done for ~$800 for reference. This was also in four different trips. Most of the top side of the panels will be covered but for the minor cost compared to the overall build I like the finished look and protectant.


I paid $500 for all the panels to be PC’d. I think counting everything it was 70 plus pieces. You just have to re drill the holes on some panels to remove some of the PC when riveting. I put the A frame in after I had the trans installed (supported by a jack). I put the A frame on top of the tabs so it could sit in place by itself. I didn’t put any loctite on the bolts with nylock nuts.

My list is a little bigger (~85 pieces) but 3-4x what you guys are quoting. I've found a reputable guy through a local cars & coffee who has an industrial size oven in his garage that charges $40/bake. I may use a professional shop for the pieces that will be visible and everything else through him.

[VAHokie]

On an unrelated note, I received the last of my POL parts which comprised mostly of small odds and ends with the 302 headers being the main item. When I inquired with FFR over the past couple of months on when the outstanding items were going to be delivered, they said they were waiting on a retooled set of 302 headers. Expecting the single headers I have seen others receive, I was surprised to find that the headers now come in two pieces and also incorporate an O2 bung integrated into it already. I'm not sure the reason for the two different pieces, but suspect it has something to do with adjustability to ensure better alignment coming out the opening.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108904&d=1560615066

[Blue Viking]

On an unrelated note, I received the last of my POL parts which comprised mostly of small odds and ends with the 302 headers being the main item. When I inquired with FFR over the past couple of months on when the outstanding items were going to be delivered, they said they were waiting on a retooled set of 302 headers. Expecting the single headers I have seen others receive, I was surprised to find that the headers now come in two pieces and also incorporate an O2 bung integrated into it already. I'm not sure the reason for the two different pieces, but suspect it has something to do with adjustability to ensure better alignment coming out the opening.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108904&d=1560615066


WOW, that looks great!

[Jeff Kleiner]

I'm not sure the reason for the two different pieces, but suspect it has something to do with adjustability to ensure better alignment coming out the opening.



Correct; the ball flange will allow up, down, in, out.

Jeff

[Blue Viking]

Did you specify that you are using efi to get the o2 bung or do they all come with it installed?

[VAHokie]

Did you specify that you are using efi to get the o2 bung or do they all come with it installed?

I believe it comes standard now as I didn't specify carb/EFI.

[Blue Viking]

I believe it comes standard now as I didn't specify carb/EFI.

That is perfect for me. I am planning some sort of fuel injection (My wet dream is an 8-stack type), and i've been wondering where to get the bung welded on as welding isn't my forte. Also no need for the wedges anymore, i love it!

[VAHokie]

I've made some good progress over the weekend on the IFS. Buttoned up the LCAs after getting some feedback from CraigS on this thread (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?32505-LCA-Spacer-Question). I greased all the fittings with Royal Purple, paying mind not to overdue the boots so as not to bust the seals. I added enough to where I started to see the boot expand. Does this look like enough? I also added the torque marks to the bolts to keep an eye for any movement down the road.

Here are the complete LCAs. On the PS I had to use a spacer on the on front tab of both the rear and front mounts. For the DS I had to use a spacer for just the front tab of the rear mount.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108969&d=1560714052
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108970&d=1560714062

Here's a pick of the boots - Do they look like they have enough grease or should I add more?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108973&d=1560715076
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108972&d=1560715068

[VAHokie]

Next up was the UCAs. I had already made the necessary changes and mods to the sleeves, see post #73 in my build thread and Fixit’s build thread (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27544-The-40-Watt-Garage-9365-Wheel-Alignment/page7&highlight=fixit), post #273 and on. The provided pivot balls went on surprisingly easy. Drop of Loctite blue and into the bench vise to tighten them down as instructed in the manual. Unfortunately, I don't have my F-panels powder coated yet, so the UCAs are on temporarily. I proceeded to work on the shocks, first going through the recommended adjustment process (http://www.koni-na.com/en-US/NorthAmerica/Technology/Adjustment-Guides/). Next up was screwing the spring seat down on the sleeve. Unfortunately, one of the coil sleeves has some thread damage and it won't allow the sprint seat to thread on. Email sent to FFR about getting a replacement so that parts on hold.

Here's the dust cover lifted up exposing the button.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108971&d=1560714079

With the shocks on hold, I proceed to remove the ABS sensor rings from the hub assemblies using a three jaw puller. I was able to get them to the edge with a piece of steel but had to get creative to get it the rest of the way off, finally resorting to a large socket on the back of the hub with the steel resting on top of it. I placed a shop rag between the socket and back of the hub to provide some protection. Little hard to see in this pic, but this did the trick.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108968&d=1560714039

[RJD]

On an unrelated note, I received the last of my POL parts which comprised mostly of small odds and ends with the 302 headers being the main item. When I inquired with FFR over the past couple of months on when the outstanding items were going to be delivered, they said they were waiting on a retooled set of 302 headers. Expecting the single headers I have seen others receive, I was surprised to find that the headers now come in two pieces and also incorporate an O2 bung integrated into it already.

Wow! I am envious of those headers.

[VAHokie]

While I'm waiting on my replacement coil sleeve to show up, decided to start tackling components of the IRS. First up was replacing the wheel studs that come installed on the hubs. My neighbor, who is an ex-Ford mechanic, has an air hammer and it made quick work of the studs that came installed in the hubs.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109305&d=1561082801

The hubs suffered a few dings from the air hammer but nothing I'm too concerned about.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109306&d=1561082821

As I was pulling in my second stud, I recalled a few others had notched the heads to avoid clearance issues with the bearing seal. Took a look at the first one I installed and sure enough, it was touching.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109216&d=1560991866

I stewed on this all day, reached out to a few guys on the forum to see what they encountered/did and recommended (thanks for your input, everyone!). Ultimately decided to back out the two that were in and notch the heads with an angle grinder. Plenty of clearance now and I have peace of mind.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109307&d=1561082840

To pull the studs through, I used the same technique that most everyone else does: hub in a vise, two hardened washer, a hardened bolt, 3/4 inch socket and good ol fashioned brute force. Actually, it wasn't terribly hard.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109308&d=1561082849

Here's a shot of a complete hub, the studs that were removed, and all the tools used for the job.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109309&d=1561082856

[jrcuz]

Good work, Tony
JR

[VAHokie]

Good work, Tony
JR

Thanks, Jerry. Replacement coil sleeve arrived yesterday so I'll be back on the IFS this weekend.

[VAHokie]

Replacement coil sleeve was also damaged and wouldn't accept the shock seat. Email to FFR and hope to have another one this upcoming week. A little frustrating, but I recognize it's not their fault and they were great in getting a new one out to me this past week without delay. I trust it'll be the same this week. Without the shock sleeve, I couldn't wrap up the IFS, but I did proceed with building one of the shocks.

Here's the completed shock. To appease my type A, OCD personality, I made sure the FFR writing was right side up.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109404&d=1561260408

Here's a pic of the snap ring - placed the gap opposite the opening on the hat - will this present an issue accessing/removing once installed? I see in the manual they have it a quarter turn to the side.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109405&d=1561260425

I decided to move onto the steering rack next. I purchased the offset bushings from Breeze and the first order of business was removing the bushings that came installed in the FFR supplied rack. I was able to knock the first one out with a socket and hammer.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109403&d=1561260401

The other wasn't budging with this method, I must have spent 15-20 minutes pounding away at it. I opted to use the three jaw puller with one of the removed IRS studs as a flat surface against the bushing head and that made quick work of it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109402&d=1561260394

With the supplied bushings out, it was time to put the Breeze bushings in. One slid right in and the other was slightly oversized. A 1.5lb dead blow hammer did the trick. After installing the DS with the FFR supplied bolt, I encountered the PS rear tab hole was undersized. I think i'll need to drill out the hole slightly. which i'll tackle tomorrow or this week.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109406&d=1561260443

[MSumners]

Wow! I am envious of those headers.

Interesting , I’ll have to check on this. Received my headers about two weeks ago as it was the last POL item but haven’t opened it yet.

[edwardb]

Here's a pic of the snap ring - placed the gap opposite the opening on the hat - will this present an issue accessing/removing once installed? I see in the manual they have it a quarter turn to the side.

Wouldn't worry about it. You won't be taking that apart very often if at all. At least not with the shock installed. Easy enough to rotate around if necessary.


After installing the DS with the FFR supplied bolt, I encountered the PS rear tab hole was undersized. I think i'll need to drill out the hole slightly. which i'll tackle tomorrow or this week.

I'd recommend not drilling out the hole. That's going to take a big bite of metal where it's not needed. Make the hole a slot toward where you need the material removed. Easy with a die grinder or whatever. If you don't have that, a little bit of sweat with a round file will get the job done. Pretty common "adjustment" for those holes BTW.

[VAHokie]

Wouldn't worry about it. You won't be taking that apart very often if at all. At least not with the shock installed. Easy enough to rotate around if necessary.



I'd recommend not drilling out the hole. That's going to take a big bite of metal where it's not needed. Make the hole a slot toward where you need the material removed. Easy with a die grinder or whatever. If you don't have that, a little bit of sweat with a round file will get the job done. Pretty common "adjustment" for those holes BTW.

Thanks for the note on the steering rack hole, Paul. I'll take a die grinder or round file to it.

[Cruzzz]

Agree with Paul. I used a Dremel to open up one side a little where there was interference. Once you get it in make sure the rack is centered before you tighten everything down. This is where the offset bushings really help.

[VAHokie]

Agree with Paul. I used a Dremel to open up one side a little where there was interference. Once you get it in make sure the rack is centered before you tighten everything down. This is where the offset bushings really help.

Thanks, Cruzzz. I have the alignment thread bookmarked and will be taking care of that. On that note, my one bushing I had to coerce in has no side to side movement given how tight the fit is. I'll have to take a look at that to ensure I have the needed adjustability.

[GTBradley]

Replacement coil sleeve was also damaged and wouldn't accept the shock seat. Email to FFR and hope to have another one this upcoming week. A little frustrating, but I recognize it's not their fault and they were great in getting a new one out to me this past week without delay. I trust it'll be the same this week. Without the shock sleeve, I couldn't wrap up the IFS, but I did proceed with building one of the shocks.

Tony, is it that the seats won’t thread on to the shock sleeves? I had a real time with that. What I did was smooth the threads down with scotch brite. I didn’t use any tools on the the ring as I knew it would mar the surface, but continually working the ring on and off with my hands and some DW40 finally freed them up. The only thing I can figure is there are unseen burs on the the threads.

[MSumners]

Thanks, Cruzzz. I have the alignment thread bookmarked and will be taking care of that. On that note, my one bushing I had to coerce in has no side to side movement given how tight the fit is. I'll have to take a look at that to ensure I have the needed adjustability.

I used the breeze bushings as well and found the mounts to be VERY tight. I didn’t technically have to Dremel out the mount hole at all, but using the spacer as directed I had zero adjustability in the system. Before taking anything out I tested the rack multiple times and just got lucky that it was centered so I just torqued it in.

[VAHokie]

Tony, is it that the seats won’t thread on to the shock sleeves? I had a real time with that. What I did was smooth the threads down with scotch brite. I didn’t use any tools on the the ring as I knew it would mar the surface, but continually working the ring on and off with my hands and some DW40 finally freed them up. The only thing I can figure is there are unseen burs on the the threads.

Yep, that's exactly it. Used scotch brite and a couple of other things with no luck. No problem though, new parts are on their way and we'll be back in business in no time.

[GTBradley]

That must be a really common problem now. I hope the new ones work better. Oddly enough, I have a bunch of those seats sitting around too, but only because they sent too many with the kit. They all had the same sticking issue.

[VAHokie]

After a little time off for vacation, waiting for the new shock sleeve and seat from FFR, and getting a couple of panels sample PC'd by a local shop, I was able to get back into the garage. First up was installing rivnuts in the back edge of each F panel to use for attaching the splash guards, which helps with accessibility of the area down the road. I ended up using a wrench-drive rivet nut installation tool (https://www.mcmaster.com/96349a203) from McMaster with their low-profile steel rivet nut (https://www.mcmaster.com/98560a561) in size 10-32. After opening the holes in the F panel back up to the appropriate size, it was a pretty straight forward process once I got the hang of the tool (tested on scrap pieces first). In total, ended up with 8 rivnuts on each F panel.

Here's a pic of the tools used:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110765&d=1563237337

Here's a pic of the installation tool in-progress:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110766&d=1563237354
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110767&d=1563237363

[VAHokie]

With the F panels PC'd and the rivnuts installed, it was time to install them on the frame. I took the route of applying the Clear GE Silicone II (https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-10-1-oz-Clear-Silicone-2-Window-and-Door-Sealant-GE5000-12C/100026175) directly to the frame, followed by clecoing the panels in place, and finally riveting them in permanently. I used a hand rivet gun and it wasn't bad at all - ask me again after another 1,000+ pulls though. To ensure I didn't apply the silicone passed the F panel contact points on the frame, I test fitted them and marked the outer edges with painters as a guide.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110762&d=1563237294

Here's the silicone going on - I was a little too liberal on this side (DS) which led to a little clean-up after install. I think I found the right balance on the PS.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110763&d=1563237304

Here's the finished DS F panel in place - 13 rivets in total. Same on the PS.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110764&d=1563237322

Nothing earth shattering here, but hopefully the extra info and pics will help a future newbie like myself.

[VAHokie]

With the F panels in place, I could now proceed with installing the IFS. Two key things to callout, both of which others have cited in their builds as well: 1) The locknuts on the ends of the pivot shaft interfere with the F panel to the point if you don't screw them on slightly prior to install you'll find it hard to tighten them down without marking up your F panels; 2) The lock nut for the aft bolt that affixes the UCA to the frame is impossible to get a socket or wrench around it given the limited clearance. I ended up having to bring the wrench in perpendicular to the locknut from the rear to hold it while I torqued it to 110 ft-lbs.

Here's a pic of the DS.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110768&d=1563237384

I still need to make adjustments to the UCAs, torque them down, and grease the fittings, as well as torque down the shock bolts, and install the rest of the IFS (spindles, hub, etc.), but hoping folks can take a look and let me know if they see anything out of place. The ball joint mount and shocks should be oriented in the right direction.

Quick question: For the shock spacers, is it recommended to put some protectant on them, e.g. clear engine enamel, to protect against rust?

[MSumners]

With the F panels in place, I could now proceed with installing the IFS. Two key things to callout, both of which others have cited in their builds as well: 1) The locknuts on the ends of the pivot shaft interfere with the F panel to the point if you don't screw them on slightly prior to install you'll find it hard to tighten them down without marking up your F panels; 2) The lock nut for the aft bolt that affixes the UCA to the frame is impossible to get a socket or wrench around it given the limited clearance. I ended up having to bring the wrench in perpendicular to the locknut from the rear to hold it while I torqued it to 110 ft-lbs.

Here's a pic of the DS.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110768&d=1563237384

I still need to make adjustments to the UCAs, torque them down, and grease the fittings, as well as torque down the shock bolts, and install the rest of the IFS (spindles, hub, etc.), but hoping folks can take a look and let me know if they see anything out of place. The ball joint mount and shocks should be oriented in the right direction.

Quick question: For the shock spacers, is it recommended to put some protectant on them, e.g. clear engine enamel, to protect against rust?


Personally I didn’t but wouldn’t be too difficult during the build. The only one that really sticks out now as it has a noticeable layer on it is the longer spacer for the front sway bar. Even assembled I plan to take that one off and probably just send it through the next round of powder coat. Curious to hear what others have done.
Can’t tell from the picture, but this is a good time to trim the rear UCA adjuster sleeve if you haven’t yet and plan to. At others recommendations as well anti-seize it good on re-assembly.

[jrcuz]

Looking good Tony. I'll be doing the same with the F panels and splash guards.
JR

[VAHokie]

Personally I didn’t but wouldn’t be too difficult during the build. The only one that really sticks out now as it has a noticeable layer on it is the longer spacer for the front sway bar. Even assembled I plan to take that one off and probably just send it through the next round of powder coat. Curious to hear what others have done.
Can’t tell from the picture, but this is a good time to trim the rear UCA adjuster sleeve if you haven’t yet and plan to. At others recommendations as well anti-seize it good on re-assembly.

Thanks for the input. If no one else weighs in, I'll probably hit them with the clear enamel. Tough to see in the pic as you noted, but I trimmed the adjustment sleeves, bolts, and applied some anti-seize (see post #73).


Looking good Tony. I'll be doing the same with the F panels and splash guards.
JR

While I have yet to reap the benefits from this mod, others speak highly of it so glad to hear you're planning to do it.

[phileas_fogg]

Looking good Tony.

For your rivnuts (& for JR too), I'll gladly loan you my Astro 1442 Setter...and if the weather cools off I'll run it up to you in my Roadster to boot. It won't get your money back, but after setting 50+ of those little buggers, you'll likely prefer the Astro to the McMaster.


John

[VAHokie]

Looking good Tony.

For your rivnuts (& for JR too), I'll gladly loan you my Astro 1442 Setter...and if the weather cools off I'll run it up to you in my Roadster to boot. It won't get your money back, but after setting 50+ of those little buggers, you'll likely prefer the Astro to the McMaster.


John

Thanks for the offer, John! The wrench-drive McMaster tool is surprisingly easy to use and requires little effort. You're always welcome to take a ride out this way, tool in-hand or not.

[J Bell]

While I'm waiting on my replacement coil sleeve to show up, decided to start tackling components of the IRS. First up was replacing the wheel studs that come installed on the hubs. My neighbor, who is an ex-Ford mechanic, has an air hammer and it made quick work of the studs that came installed in the hubs.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109305&d=1561082801

The hubs suffered a few dings from the air hammer but nothing I'm too concerned about.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109306&d=1561082821

As I was pulling in my second stud, I recalled a few others had notched the heads to avoid clearance issues with the bearing seal. Took a look at the first one I installed and sure enough, it was touching.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109216&d=1560991866

I stewed on this all day, reached out to a few guys on the forum to see what they encountered/did and recommended (thanks for your input, everyone!). Ultimately decided to back out the two that were in and notch the heads with an angle grinder. Plenty of clearance now and I have peace of mind.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109307&d=1561082840

To pull the studs through, I used the same technique that most everyone else does: hub in a vise, two hardened washer, a hardened bolt, 3/4 inch socket and good ol fashioned brute force. Actually, it wasn't terribly hard.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109308&d=1561082849

Here's a shot of a complete hub, the studs that were removed, and all the tools used for the job.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109309&d=1561082856


I have reading build threads and I keep missing the info as to why everyone switches out the wheel studs. Changing to stainless steel and longer?

[BadAsp427]

It is so that all of your lugs are the same thread... I guess the mustang ones that you remove are a different thread... and this way all 16 lugs are the same..

[edwardb]

It is so that all of your lugs are the same thread... I guess the mustang ones that you remove are a different thread... and this way all 16 lugs are the same..

Correct. The front hubs are SAE 1/2-20, and so are the all lug nuts with Factory Five wheels if you buy from them. The 2015+ Mustang IRS setup is metric. So the studs are switched out so that the whole car is 1/2-20.

[VAHokie]

Over the past couple of weeks I buttoned up more of the IFS, just need to install the hubs, rotors and brakes. They're all getting some paint: POR15 for the back of the hubs and rotor centers, and caliper paint for the calipers. Temps and humidity this time of year aren't ideal for application, so holding on those until September/October for some cooler temps. Same is true for the IRS differential and IRS hubs and rotors.

Here's the DS IFS all torqued and lubricated.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111833&d=1564962207

Same for the PS.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111838&d=1564962700

I had one thing left for the IRS wheel hubs before setting them aside, which was torqueing them down to the 100 ft-lbs. The first hub went smoothly, but a couple of turns on the first stud on the second hub and I had a free spinning nut. Backed it off ever so carefully but the damage was done. The nut and stud threads were shredded. Quick call to FFR and got another two sent out in the mail - one for the replacement and the other to have on hand if ever I need it, and picked up a new nut (well, actually 10 of them) from my local Fastenal. Items received, new stud installed, all five torqued down, and back on the shelf for cooler temps.

Here's the damaged stud.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111834&d=1564962216

And here's the damaged nut.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111835&d=1564962223

[VAHokie]

As you saw in in previous posts, I started installing the steering rack and encountered a couple of issues:

1) The PS mounting tab attached to the X member didn't align with the front mount and steering rack. I'll need to open that up a bit, but opted to hold on doing that until I can resolve #2 as getting some movement in the bushing might address this.

2) The PS Breeze offset bushing in the steering rack required some persuasion to go in and not surprisingly it's a snug fit with now movement side-to-side. I suspect this should have side-to-side movement as the DS spins freely and will even slide out of the rack if you let it. Thoughts on how to address the PS? I was thinking taking an emery cloth to the bushing and/or inside of the steering rack mount hole - thoughts?

3) I noticed in the instructions from Breeze that it mentions possible getting the rack extenders from FFR and also needing to ground the tabs. Looking at a bunch of threads and it didn't appear that others needed to purchase or make this adjustment to the tabs - anyone running power steering with the Breeze offsets that can share what they did?

[VAHokie]

Despite the pauses in the build, there's always something else you can work on, so I moved on to the pedal box and have brought my started but unfinished phases in the build to 4 (IFS, IRS, Steering Rack, Pedal Box). To be honest, I hate moving on to something else without first fully completing what I had started, but I want to keep wrenching! Couple of quick pedal box questions for the group:

1) In the online build video it shows mounting the rear clutch side mounting bolt upside down, I suspect because doing it the other way will interfere with the clutch system. I'm planning on a hydraulic clutch so I suspect that this doesn't apply to me and I can mount the same as the other three mounting bolts - sound right?

2) In the instructions for mounting the pedal box to the firewall, it states to use the three 3/8" x 1" socket head screws from the pedal box hardware kit (#11029) and the one included in "this" pedal assembly. I looked all over for another 3/8" x 1" socket head screw that matched the three black ones included, but could only find two stainless steel ones from #16292 - can someone confirm i'm supposed to use one of these as the fourth mounting position? The pics in the manual show four of the black socket head screws but my inventory only shows I should receive three of them.

Here are the bolts in question:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111836&d=1564962241

[phileas_fogg]

As you saw in in previous posts, I started installing the steering rack and encountered a couple of issues:

1) The PS mounting tab attached to the X member didn't align with the front mount and steering rack. I'll need to open that up a bit, but opted to hold on doing that until I can resolve #2 as getting some movement in the bushing might address this.

I've got nothing helpful here; sorry.


2) The PS Breeze offset bushing in the steering rack required some persuasion to go in and not surprisingly it's a snug fit with now movement side-to-side. I suspect this should have side-to-side movement as the DS spins freely and will even slide out of the rack if you let it. Thoughts on how to address the PS? I was thinking taking an emery cloth to the bushing and/or inside of the steering rack mount hole - thoughts?

You can clean up the inside of the steering rack with one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002XUL072/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. This brush is also useful for cleaning out the insides of your roll bar down tubes so that they slip easily over the mounts. I've got one you can borrow if you like.


3) I noticed in the instructions from Breeze that it mentions possible getting the rack extenders from FFR and also needing to ground the tabs. Looking at a bunch of threads and it didn't appear that others needed to purchase or make this adjustment to the tabs - anyone running power steering with the Breeze offsets that can share what they did?

Breeze sent me the Unisteer rack; I did not need rack extenders. I suspect that whatever rack you get from Breeze Mark has already made any adjustments you need; give him a call to confirm or refute.

I did have to grind the frame tabs as indicated below.

https://live.staticflickr.com/4304/36248937386_e8daba36ad_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Xechc5)IMG_1690 (https://flic.kr/p/Xechc5) by jhsitton (https://www.flickr.com/photos/91016165@N07/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/4314/36248937276_606acec1cf_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Xechab)IMG_1693 (https://flic.kr/p/Xechab) by jhsitton (https://www.flickr.com/photos/91016165@N07/), on Flickr

A test fit midway through. I did clean the edges up after this!

https://live.staticflickr.com/4305/36248937096_898d3aff9e_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Xech75)IMG_1694 (https://flic.kr/p/Xech75) by jhsitton (https://www.flickr.com/photos/91016165@N07/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/4324/36248936516_c5dc474e34_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XecgW5)IMG_1697 (https://flic.kr/p/XecgW5) by jhsitton (https://www.flickr.com/photos/91016165@N07/), on Flickr

[phileas_fogg]

Also, the black oxide bolts will rust if you don't treat them. Many folks just swap them out for stainless. Also, I think those bolts receive conventional (not Nylock) nuts; use blue Loc-Tite to secure them. I don't recall how many bolts I received; if I was short I bought a replacement from Fastenal.


John

[VAHokie]

You can clean up the inside of the steering rack with one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002XUL072/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. This brush is also useful for cleaning out the insides of your roll bar down tubes so that they slip easily over the mounts. I've got one you can borrow if you like.

Thanks, John. I'll connect with you offline about borrowing the tool.



Also, the black oxide bolts will rust if you don't treat them. Many folks just swap them out for stainless. Also, I think those bolts receive conventional (not Nylock) nuts; use blue Loc-Tite to secure them. I don't recall how many bolts I received; if I was short I bought a replacement from Fastenal.

I recall reading this with respect to the fuel tank mounting strap bolts, so makes sense that the same would apply here.

[VAHokie]

Continued work on the pedal box and made some good progress. I opted to swap out the black oxide bolts for the reasons everyone has mentioned here and in their threads with some stainless steel versions from Home Depot. I ran into the same issue that others have with the clutch pedal hitting the 3/4" tube. I made a steel bracket that I'll mount underneath the tube after cleaning it up and spraying it with some black paint. Thanks to Fixit for the idea for this one. Couple of pics below in the hope that some folks can check my work, as well as a few questions.

Here's the clutch pedal stop template and bracket. I drilled some 1/4" holes that i'll use to anchor it to the 3/4" tube with some stainless steel bolts.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=112228&d=1565573524

Nothing crazy here but the backside of the front plate with the four (4) 3/8"-16x1 bolts and the 3/4" tube that the clutch pedal stop will mount too. Quick note for builders approaching this step. Your kit, if it's like mine, will provide three 3/8"-16x1 in the pedal box hardware kit in box 2a, but the instructions direct you to install four. Apparently, after speaking to FFR, Wilwood changed something around and the kit components haven't been adjusted yet. Not an issue as I ended up getting the stainless steel versions anyways, but it was a bit of a head scratcher at fi
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=112229&d=1565573537

Rear pedal box mounting arms. Even though this isn't tightened down yet, it's clear the fender washer under the bolt head isn't going to sit flush, but this is no different than what the manual shows. Does this look/sound right?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=112230&d=1565573545

In order for the rear pedal box mounting holes to sit flush to the pedal box, I had to adjust the hex nuts on the switches all the way down - is this what everyone else has done?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=112232&d=1565573606

Here's the pedal box as it sits right now, with both the front (top) and rear (bottom) cylinders in place. I cut the instructed 5/8" off the threaded shaft with my Dremel, which left 1 1/8" of the shaft remaining. I'm going with a hydraulic clutch, so there will be a third down at the bottom once that gets here.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=112231&d=1565573552

[jrcuz]

Looking good Tony. I guess I'm 1 of the lucky ones who didn't have to modify the 3/4" tubes for the clutch pedal. I did change out the black bolts for stainless.
JR

[phileas_fogg]

I like it.

In the second picture, I'd like to see at least 1 1/2 to 2 threads sticking out past the end of the nylok nut. Otherwise, the bolt may come loose. If the bolt is too short to get that protrusion, you need a longer bolt.

For the washer under the bolt head in the third picture, grind a flat on the washer so that it will sit flush. Also, grind the powder coating under the nut-side washer off the 3/4" tube; you'll be using that as a ground for your fuse box. If you've got a non-GPS speedometer, you may want to grind the powder coating under the nut-side washer off on the other side as well (I found that the pulses from the speedometer sensor were back feeding into my ECU and push button start).

Your brake switch looks remarkably like mine. ;) Will you be installing a clutch safety switch? All you need is a second mounting tab which you can get from F5 for a nominal charge. When you call to place the order ask them to just mail it in a business envelope; that'll save you ~$10 in shipping.

Regarding which brake cylinder goes where, think about how you're going to run your brake lines. The cylinder doesn't care if it's the inboard or outboard one, but swapping them side to side may make your brake lines easier (or harder) to run.


John

https://live.staticflickr.com/4294/36123274152_1703a1d17e_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/X36dTA)IMG_1642 (https://flic.kr/p/X36dTA) by jhsitton (https://www.flickr.com/photos/91016165@N07/), on Flickr

[VAHokie]

I like it.

In the second picture, I'd like to see at least 1 1/2 to 2 threads sticking out past the end of the nylok nut. Otherwise, the bolt may come loose. If the bolt is too short to get that protrusion, you need a longer bolt.

For the washer under the bolt head in the third picture, grind a flat on the washer so that it will sit flush. Also, grind the powder coating under the nut-side washer off the 3/4" tube; you'll be using that as a ground for your fuse box. If you've got a non-GPS speedometer, you may want to grind the powder coating under the nut-side washer off on the other side as well (I found that the pulses from the speedometer sensor were back feeding into my ECU and push button start).

Your brake switch looks remarkably like mine. ;) Will you be installing a clutch safety switch? All you need is a second mounting tab which you can get from F5 for a nominal charge. When you call to place the order ask them to just mail it in a business envelope; that'll save you ~$10 in shipping.

Regarding which brake cylinder goes where, think about how you're going to run your brake lines. The cylinder doesn't care if it's the inboard or outboard one, but swapping them side to side may make your brake lines easier (or harder) to run.

Thanks, John.

For the second picture, everything is just hand tight right now, so there won't be any issues getting the appropriate number of threads through the nut - good looking out, though! The kit actually comes with two switches and mounting tabs, one for the brakes and an optional clutch safety switch, which I elected to install. Good call on the placement of the master cylinders. I'll need to take another look at that and possibly swap positions so that the rear cylinder (currently inboard) is outboard as my brake line path will likely be through the front right of the DS footbox floor and back down the 4" frame tubes.

[VAHokie]

Work and a quick family trip slowed progress the past couple of weeks, but managed to get a couple of hours in this past weekend. Continued work on the pedal box which is ~90% complete. I ran into a slight delay in that I didn't have any 5/16-24 lock nuts included in the kit or supplied Wilwood components. There weren't any listed in my inventory list, so not surprised they weren't included, but that's what is needed for the master cylinder mount studs. Quick trip to Fastenal and back in business. I still need to tackle the balance bar adjustment having just threaded the master cylinder shafts in until they were flush on the other side of the mount. I've read a lot of folks recommend not spending too much time on the adjustment at this stage as it's best to do it once there's fluid in the system. So question for the group, do I work through some minor adjustments now or just wait until later.

Also interested to get thoughts on how much of the 90 degree brake line adapter thread is still showing once installed in the master cylinder. As you can see in the pic, there are 3-4 threads engaged with 3 still remaining. Turning it anymore felt as though it would strip the threads and I left as-is. It appears to match the pics in the manual.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=112983&d=1566864997

[VAHokie]

Also resolved the clearance issue in the one steering rack sleeve to allow the Breeze bushing to move freely and do what it's intended. Believing a drum sander or some other mechanically enabled sanding machine might be a bit overkill and/or take too much off, I opted for a medium grit emery cloth wrapped around a 7/8 socket.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=112984&d=1566865024

Couple of turns, test fit, couple of more turns, test fit... you get the idea. After a few minutes and we have success.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=112985&d=1566865034

I also taped off the steering rack as I plan to spray it with a couple coats of clear to help with rust prevention. The pic below doesn't have the steering shaft or either of the two ends masked off, but they will be before getting started.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=112986&d=1566865048

[jrcuz]

HI Tony, I just went out and checked the 90 deg. adapters on my m/c's and there are about 3 threads showing. I like the clear idea on the steering rack.
JR

[VAHokie]

HI Tony, I just went out and checked the 90 deg. adapters on my m/c's and there are about 3 threads showing. I like the clear idea on the steering rack.
JR

Thanks for taking a look and confirming, Jerry. I can't take credit for the idea to apply clear to the steering rack, that was a suggestion by BadAsp427. I plan to do the same for the rear CV axles as others have done.

[BadAsp427]

Things are starting to look really nice! Keep up the great work. It won’t be long and you’ll be wondering what else is there to do?

[VAHokie]

This post serves as my work on the build for this weekend as there wasn't much time for anything else. But I did spend the last couple of weekends wrapping up the steering rack and RT turn signal install. For the steering rack, I started another thread here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?33318-Centering-Steering-Rack-Questions) to get a few questions answered based on Karlos' great steering rack install/set-up post (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?19175-Steering-Rack-Install-Setup-Procedure&highlight=karlos). After a bit of work, I think I have everything in the right place.

Here's the DS all torqued down.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114381&d=1568595893

Here's the PS.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114383&d=1568595906

I also took this time to get the steering wheel centered before I bolted everything down. I suspect there will be future adjustments needed, but this gets me in the ballpark.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114380&d=1568595883

Question for the group: Safe to assume that as I tighten down the socket head screw that holds the steering wheel to the upper steering shaft that it will pull it through so its closer to being flush? The upper steering shaft has a taper and any gentle persuading I do isn't getting it to seat further into the hub.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114388&d=1568595955

[VAHokie]

As noted above, I also installed the RT Turn Signal assembly. Russ sends a lot of great detailed instructions which are easy to follow, which I supplemented with Fixit's post #159 and #160 from his build thread (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27544-The-40-Watt-Garage-9365-More-miles-under-the-wheels!/page4&highlight=fixit). John does a great play-by-play in his thread so I won't parrot it back here, but there are a couple of things I will call out.

To get the approximate upper steering shaft angle across the front 2x2 cross tube, I first installed the pillow block provided by the kit, mocked everything up, and placed some painters tape on either side where it crossed to serve as a guide. As I positioned the RT Turn Signal mounting plate for final fitment, I used these as a rough initial guide. I will echo John's cautionary note about needing to pay careful attention to the placement of the mounting plate and the slip fit on the steering shaft. I had to make adjustments a couple of times before getting everything right with no binding. It seemed every time I went to tighten down the pillow block and mounting plate, the steering shaft would bind. You can also see where I eventually drilled the holes for the adapter plate.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114387&d=1568595950

Here it is installed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114386&d=1568595929

[VAHokie]

IRS Install
Finally got around to installing the IRS differential this weekend. First order of business was chasing the front ears with a 5/8 bit. As others have reported, you have to go slow as it will grab and do a number on your wrist/arm. I started with my handheld 20V cordless drill and wasn't getting very far. Borrowed by neighbors drill and with a slow and steady approach, we achieved the needed 5/8 opening.

Next up was getting it off the ground and in a position where I could mask it off with blue painters tape, clean it up, clear it and drain/refill the fluids. Used two saw horses and a couple of 2x4s running perpendicular at ~15" apart to get it situated. It's a little nerve wracking having the diff a couple feet off the ground, but it worked just fine. I then used acetone and a clean rag to clean the markings off the casing. As others have reported, my diff came with a coating on the steel portion of the casing. Original plan was to POR15 this, but after reading what others have done, probably fine with what it came with so I just masked it off and hit it with a couple coats of duplicolor clear.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114684&d=1569156108

I then drained the diff and replaced the fluids. It probably would have been alright to leave as-is but decided to change it out for two reasons: 1) There's not external marking indicating the diff is filled with the appropriate fluids, at least that I could tell, and 2) There's no guarantee it's filled properly, although I'm sure it is. My OCD kicks in and $66 later, 1.5L of the gear oil and 4 oz. of the friction modifier are in. I posed a question to the forum (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?33560-IRS-Friction-Modifier-Amount) on the correct amount of friction modifier to put in as the manual states 3-3.5 and the Ford workshop manual has 4. Thanks to Gordon, Paul and Carl for the quick reply and in went 4 oz. A little blue Loctite on the plug threads and torqued down to 25 ft-lb per the Ford manual.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114682&d=1569156064

I won't detail all the steps for the IRS install as many others have done so in great detail already, but we did end up using a combination of the floor jack to get it up in position and some ratchet straps to hold and maneuver it into place. I will definitely say that the more people you can have helping the better, as I had three other guys assisting in the process: one working the floor jack from behind, two on either side from underneath and one directing the front end from within the cockpit. Here it is installed. Love the F5 logo.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114683&d=1569156074

I don't have the bolts torqued down just yet as I wanted to run something by the group. The front mounting bushing sleeves protrude about 1/16" on either side. Assuming that's OK? For the rear mounting bushing sleeves, I have it flush to the bushing on the rear of the mounting, but there's ~1/8" gap between the end of the sleeve and the bushing on the front, as you can see below. Should this gap be equalized on both sides of the bushing sleeve or does it even matter? Hoping it's fine as-is as I don't want to pull the diff and have to reinstall it!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114680&d=1569156043

[edwardb]

IMO go ahead and torque those IRS diff bolts and you'll be fine. The mounting is quite rigid and it's not going anywhere. Been done on a whole bunch of builds with that combination of bushings and sleeves. For an earlier question you posted, without a response, yes the steering shaft will pull flush with the hub when you use the socket bolt and washer. It's a tight fit, but will pull right in. Don't be in a hurry though, unless you like using a wheel puller. Unlikely it will come back off any other way. FWIW, I have this one and it's cheap and does the job. https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/auto-maintenance-repair/pullers/bolt-type-wheel-puller-set-62620.html.

[VAHokie]

Continued with the IRS diff install above by torqueing everything down. One thing to call out here: there are different torque specs for these bolts listed in the supplemental instructions. In the step-by-step instructions that mirror the manual, it states 100 ft-lb, but on the last page where it lists all of the specs, it states 129 ft-lb. Quick email to F5 tech and Dan confirmed 100 ft-lb is the right spec. After getting the front bolts torqued down, I noticed that there was still some gap in the rear between the frame mount and diff, which was looking uneven on both sides due to the bushing slightly protruding. Spent some time examining, measuring, examining, and measuring again and finally convinced myself everything is equal on both sides despite visually appearing to be off because of the bushing. I also recall reading in some other threads that other builds had a slight gap here as well. If anyone has any thoughts here, please chime in.

Here's a pic of the DS forward mount and gap.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115797&d=1570756354

And here's a pic of the PS forward mount and gap. You can see here that the bushing is flush vs the DS above.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115798&d=1570756368

[VAHokie]

Part of the reason I haven't wrapped up the IRS install is that I've taken advantage of the cooler temps to paint my brake calipers and apply POR15 to the front/rear hubs and IRS knuckles. For the brake calipers, I used Duplicolor's Red Caliper Paint Kit (https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/duplicolor-caliper-kit-red-8-oz-half-pint-aerosol-kit-bcp400/7141462-P?searchTerm=Duplicolor+Caliper+Paint+Kit) which worked well in my opinion. You get a lot of product and I have quite a bit left over. For the POR15, I purchased the small starter kit (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077J66P27?aaxitk=HPOoc3Uu33oBQD8RkDLTAw&pd_rd_i=B077J66P27&pf_rd_p=44fc3e0f-4b9e-4ed8-b33b-363a7257163d&hsa_cr_id=2074773190801&sb-ci-n=productDescription&sb-ci-v=POR-15%2040909%20Gloss%20Black%20Stop%20Rust%20Kit%20-%20Permanent%20Corrosion%20Preventive%20System) on Amazon that so many else have used. A few words of caution that others have shared and one unique experience of my own: 1) Be careful not to get this on anything you don't want to get ruined, because it will if you do and 2) Don't use red solo cups to hold the POR15 for painting - whatever is in POR15 ate right through the bottom of the solo cup and left a nice stain on my garage floor, as well as a nice trail from point A to B when I at first didn't realize it had seeped through. A good reminder that this stuff is potent!

Here are the front and rear brake calipers taped up and ready for paint. I found a spare 8' 2x4 across saw horses and clothes hangars made for a nice system to paint these.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115792&d=1570756267

Here are the finished pieces and a close-up of one of the calipers. I was careful to tape off or not paint any areas where I didn't want to create extra friction for the brake pads - I think I covered them all.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115793&d=1570756279

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115794&d=1570756294

Here are the finished IRS knuckles and hubs. Although not visible in this shot, I used clear silicone to fill the ABS sensor hole. Quick and easy.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115795&d=1570756328

[GTBradley]

Nice work Tony, I sure hope you work for NASA because you are amazingly detail oriented.

[jrcuz]

Good work Tony. I only coated the IRS diff with POR15 the knuckles turned out looking great wish I had done mine now.
JR

[VAHokie]

Nice work Tony, I sure hope you work for NASA because you are amazingly detail oriented.

Thanks, Bradley. Just the OCD/Type A in me!


Good work Tony. I only coated the IRS diff with POR15 the knuckles turned out looking great wish I had done mine now.
JR

Thanks, Jerry!

[VAHokie]

Before getting back to the IRS install, I took some time to clear the CV axles and paint the front/rear brake rotors. None of this is necessary, but does add some extra protection (for the CV axles) and aesthetics (for the rotors).

Here's a pic of the CV axles taped and ready to have clear applied.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116328&d=1571583815

Here's a pic of the rotors all taped up in my makeshift paint booth with the VHT satin black caliper paint applied. Note, I only applied this to the center section of the rotors and taped off anything that would be in contact with the brake pads.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116325&d=1571583477

Here's the finished product with the tape removed - came out great IMO!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116326&d=1571583489

While I had the VHT out, I removed the Kleiner mod couplers from the rear, sanded them down with a medium grit emory cloth to scuff the surface and applied the paint. Nothing crazy and easy enough to do.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116327&d=1571583501

[VAHokie]

Picked back up on the IRS install and first order of business was to install the toe arm. I noticed even after adding the spacers there was a small ~1/8" gap remaining. Not wanting to tighten anything down and possibly stress the mounts with that gap, I shot a note to FFR Tech to get some advice. Dan responded quickly confirming that in this instance it's OK to tighten down as-is.

Here's a pic of what I was talking about.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115799&d=1570756380

Most of the UCA and LCA frame mounts required the threaded rod method to open them up a bit, but everything went in fine. I have the DS mocked up before tackling the PS and torqueing everything down. Would appreciate some experienced builders set of eyes on this to ensure it's all set. Note, the jam nuts, adjustment sleeves, etc, have not been adjusted, they're just simply in place for now.

This is where the UCA meets the knuckle and the one I'm most interested to get confirmation it's installed correctly.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116322&d=1571583451

Here are two more shots of the DS mocked up.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116323&d=1571583458

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116324&d=1571583465

One tip I picked up at the build school and did on the front LCAs (although I didn't call it out in my earlier post) as well as the rear was cut grooves in the bushing ends to help with grease travel on the ends. Here's a shot of one of the rear LCAs. I used a Dremel and cutoff wheel, running the grooves from the center openings out to the edge.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115796&d=1570756341

[MSumners]

UCA to knuckle looks correct. You will likely want more threads showing and equal on both sides to leave some adjustability later on though.
This is how mine looked. I had to go back and adjust the thread lengths after this was taken.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107070&d=1557626522

[VAHokie]

UCA to knuckle looks correct. You will likely want more threads showing and equal on both sides to leave some adjustability later on though.
This is how mine looked. I had to go back and adjust the thread lengths after this was taken.

Thanks for taking a look and confirming. I definitely need to make adjustments as I just have everything screwed in all the way for mock-up purposes.

[VAHokie]

The past two weeks have been pretty busy wrapping up the front brakes and IRS. For the front brakes, I installed the supplied hardware in the calipers, added a smear of CRC Brake & Caliper grease on the caliper pins, hardware, and the front inner face of the caliper where the back of the pad will make contact (Note: my kit came with two hardware kits, a black and silver set. I installed the black set and then realized I had the extra silver set. Quick email to FFR to confirm there isn't a difference between the two and I left it be). I was on the fence about swapping out the supplied StopTech brake pads with Hawk pads like so many others. My initial thought was to go with the provided pads and see how they felt as upgrading them later wouldn't be terrible difficult. The more I've thought about it and I'm going to just install them out of the gate. So even though the front caliper is installed, it'll need to come off when the new pads arrive.

Hardware installed with CRC applied.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117097&d=1572821873

Here's the underside of the caliper so you can see where I applied the CRC to the pins and on the front inner face of the caliper where the pad will make contact. Also applied a little to the back of the pad.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117098&d=1572821885

Here's the CRC grease I used.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117099&d=1572821894

Here's the caliper installed on the DS from both a side and top view.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117101&d=1572821940

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117102&d=1572821947

[VAHokie]

Continued with the IRS by installing the CV axles. To be safe, I got a hold of the Ford shop manual instructions for installing the axles to confirm the proper installation steps. Surprisingly, it was just as straightforward as the manual states - you just press it in until it seats, which you can feel/hear as the inner halfshaft circlip finds its home. Confirmed that I had the ~1/8 gap as the manual states and all set. With the CV axles in place, I was able to get the knuckles, UCAs, LCAs and toe arms in place. For both the UCA and toe arm, I left ~1/2" of threads on either side of the adjustment sleeves. This isn't called out in the manual, but an important step for when you go to make adjustments for alignment down the road.

Here's the 1/8" gap between the diff and inner CV axle shaft.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117100&d=1572821910

Here's the UCA adjusters with the spacing.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117103&d=1572821961

Here's the toe arm with the spacing.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117118&d=1572823989

[VAHokie]

Question for the group: In looking over the IRS UCA mounts, I noticed that the forward UCA bolt barely has any thread protruding beyond the end of the locknut despite being torqued down. The front LCA aft bolt is the same way, although I didn't take notice earlier. Curious if folks are swapping these out for something longer (120mm vs. the supplied 110mm in the case of the IRS UCA) to achieve more thread engagement? I'm mostly concerned about the IRS UCA because that forward bolt would be a pain to swap out later once all the tin is in place.

Here's a pic of the DS IRS UCA forward bolt i'm referencing.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117120&d=1572824238

[edwardb]

Question for the group: In looking over the IRS UCA mounts, I noticed that the forward UCA bolt barely has any thread protruding beyond the end of the locknut despite being torqued down. The front LCA aft bolt is the same way, although I didn't take notice earlier. Curious if folks are swapping these out for something longer (120mm vs. the supplied 110mm in the case of the IRS UCA) to achieve more thread engagement? I'm mostly concerned about the IRS UCA because that forward bolt would be a pain to swap out later once all the tin is in place.

Here's a pic of the DS IRS UCA forward bolt i'm referencing.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117120&d=1572824238

I've used the bolts as is on the builds I've done, and haven't heard anyone who's replaced them. Maybe a purist would have another thread or two sticking out. But those distorted-thread locknuts are just not going to back out IMO. I suspect you noticed they went on pretty hard when installing and torquing down. Plus those bolts are pretty specialized and wouldn't be cheap, after you find them. I say use them.

[VAHokie]

I've used the bolts as is on the builds I've done, and haven't heard anyone who's replaced them. Maybe a purist would have another thread or two sticking out. But those distorted-thread locknuts are just not going to back out IMO. I suspect you noticed they went on pretty hard when installing and torquing down. Plus those bolts are pretty specialized and wouldn't be cheap, after you find them. I say use them.

Thanks, Paul. I'll keep pressing on.

[VAHokie]

After addressing my UCA thread engagement concerns (thanks again, Paul!), I wrapped up the rear suspension by attaching the brackets to the calipers and installing my newly acquired Hawk HPS 5.0 brake pads (Part # HB580B.627 (https://www.hawkperformance.com/pads/hb580b-627)). I also replaced the previously installed front brake pads with a set of Hawk HPS 5.0 pads (Part #HB274B.610 (https://www.hawkperformance.com/pads/hb274b-610)). I did run into a little fitment issue with the rear pads where the mounting arms were just slightly too wide. I took a small amount off each end with a file and everything went into place.

Here's the DS caliper with the installed brackets and pads. The brackets were one of many of the pieces that are provided in the kit as raw steel and I had powdercoated.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117597&d=1573783633

Installed DS brake caliper side and top.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117598&d=1573783643 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117599&d=1573783678

[VAHokie]

With both the front and rear suspension now complete, I paused to check back over all the work up until this point to ensure everything was installed properly, torqued correctly, etc. In doing so, I convinced myself that I should order the Moog outer tie rods (Part #ES2150RL) that many builders are using to help address the limited thread engagement you get with the part provided in the kit (I had ~1" engagement without a rough alignment). Removing the previously installed outer tie rods ended up being a major PIA (don't ask), so word of advice for other builders: if you're considering or even on the fence with this mod, just spend the ~$40 and do it out of the gate. Everything is back where it should be and I'm sleeping better at night now that I have ~1 15/16" engagement on each side (without an alignment adjustments).

While messing around with the steering, I also decided to move the steering shaft flange bearings to the inside of the footbox to allow for greater ease in removing/adjusting the lower adapter in the future. I was OK with the placement on the outside of the footbox as the instructions state, but the more I thought about possibly needing to move the steering shaft out of the way for the engine install or to re-center the steering wheel after alignment, making this change felt like the right thing to do. There's just one problem: one of the pedalbox mounts sits flush up against the opening on the rear. Pulled out the Dremel and made the necessary adjustments and it fits perfectly.

Here's the pedalbox mount interference.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117592&d=1573783556

The Dremel and cut-off wheel combo are proving very handy in this build.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117593&d=1573783564

Here it is installed after the modification.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117594&d=1573783583

[jrcuz]

Good progress Tony. The Dremel is a very handy tool, glad I got one.
JR

[CraigS]

Your car is looking good Tony!

[VAHokie]

Good progress Tony. The Dremel is a very handy tool, glad I got one.
JR


Your car is looking good Tony!

Thank you, gentlemen!

[VAHokie]

Before getting started on the fuel tank install, I wanted to get some thoughts and input from other builders on which route to go with the fuel pump, mechanical or electric. A lot of great advice and different POVs were provided here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?34103-Fuel-Pump-Questions). I'm certain I'll be going with a mechanical pump, but will hold off on purchasing anything right now in the event a pump is supplied with my engine. Great call out by CraigS and a few others to be sure to specify the engine will need a front cover w/ the mount and an eccentric on the cam.

I elected to enlarge the fuel tank vent openings as others have done to increase airflow. This is intended to allow displaced air to escape without backing up the filler neck when gassing up. There are larger diameter options on the market, but figured I'd try this out first. I also checked with someone who did the mod and he confirmed he hasn't encountered any issues on his end (thanks, BadAsp427).

On the top end, I enlarged the opening to 13/64". Any more and I felt it would start eating at the neck. Here's a side-by-side comparison showing the difference in opening (enlarged on the left and original on right). I received two vents in my kit and used the unmodified one for reference
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117821&d=1574300157 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117824&d=1574303288

For the bottom end, I opened up the pinched ends with a pair of pliers, removed the hardware and drilled it out to 13/64" as well. Took a minute to figure out how best to crimp the end back together and settled on using the vise and screwdriver shaft. Not quite like new, but good enough.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117825&d=1574303297 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117823&d=1574303276 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117826&d=1574303304

For the fuel pick-up, I also opened up the end of the send line to 9/32". I didn't bother with the return line since I'll be running a carb. Question for the group: What is the best way to ensure all the shavings from enlarging the hole are removed from the sender? With the mesh strainer on the end I can't blow air through the tube and it doesn't appear it can be removed easily.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117822&d=1574300794

[edwardb]

Tried to send you a PM, but looks like your in box is full. Won't let me send. Something to check.

[VAHokie]

Tried to send you a PM, but looks like your in box is full. Won't let me send. Something to check.

Thanks, Paul. Should be good now.

[VAHokie]

Progress has been slow with the holidays and things being crazy at work, but was able to get the gas tank installed. Nothing crazy here but thought I'd callout a few things that might help others and solicit thoughts from the forum on a few others. Unpacking the fuel tank and kit supplied parts, there are two sets of retaining clips and O-rings provided for the fuel pick-up and sending units. One set is actually true to its name and cylindrical in shape, the other has more of a rectangular shape to it. I elected to use the cylindrical shaped o-ring and applied gas-resistant contact adhesive/sealant (Seal-all (https://www.amazon.com/Seal-All-380112-Contact-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B008VK0JS4/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2QA5QGFXEGGVV&keywords=seal-all+contact+adhesive+and+sealant&qid=1576545838&sprefix=seal-all%2Caps%2C143&sr=8-4)).

In bending down the flanges on the gas tank, there was a bit of cracking on the inside of the weld. It appears this is limited to the protectant coating on the gas tank and not the actual tank. Curious if this happened to anyone else?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119033&d=1576545501

As noted by many others, the 2" supplied bolts have no chance in closing the gap on the PS between the frame mount and strap. I went ahead and purchased a 3.5" bolt from Fastenal and it seemed to do the trick, although the angle it's pitched does concern me.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119035&d=1576545523

The supplied 2" bolt for the DS worked just fine, although also pitched, but to the aft of the car.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119034&d=1576545511

The PS frame mount also needed to be pushed forward slightly to better seat against the tank. I read many have used a small rubber mallet or similar, but I chose to use a ratchet to slowly pull it forward. It's hard to tell in the pic, but there is a small gap between the tank and edge of the frame mount.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119036&d=1576545533

[egchewy79]

I had similar issues with the finish on the gas tank cracking as I bent the flange. I am also not concerned about the pitch of your bolts as mine did the same. The biggest challenge was getting a socket to lineup with the head of the bolt at the angle shown

[jrcuz]

Good to see you back at it Tony. Another thing to keep an eye on is the rubber gasket on the filler tube and tank. I read another post during the summer about it and checked mine and it was nearly cut half way thru. I ordered a Ford replacement

[jrcuz]

Here is the Ford part# F4ZZ-9072-DA
JR

[phileas_fogg]

Hey Tony, I hate to tell you this but I had no luck with the seal all when I installed my tank. It started leaking within a month or so. When I took the pickup & fuel pump hanger out to see what was going on, it appears the seal all becomes rigid over time, which leads to cracks, which leads to leaks.

I replaced the two gaskets & used the Ford-recommended lubricant - motor oil - when putting everything together. Note that there are two types of gaskets: one has a circular cross section & the other has a square cross section. Either one works just fine.


John

[VAHokie]

I had similar issues with the finish on the gas tank cracking as I bent the flange. I am also not concerned about the pitch of your bolts as mine did the same. The biggest challenge was getting a socket to lineup with the head of the bolt at the angle shown

Thanks for confirming and putting my mind at ease. I didn't even try a socket and just ended up using a 8mm hex key.


Good to see you back at it Tony. Another thing to keep an eye on is the rubber gasket on the filler tube and tank. I read another post during the summer about it and checked mine and it was nearly cut half way thru. I ordered a Ford replacement

Thanks for the heads-up, Jerry. Curious what caused that. I've read other comments about the edges of the tank openings being very sharp and needing to be addressed, but mine were actually quite smooth and profiled.



Hey Tony, I hate to tell you this but I had no luck with the seal all when I installed my tank. It started leaking within a month or so. When I took the pickup & fuel pump hanger out to see what was going on, it appears the seal all becomes rigid over time, which leads to cracks, which leads to leaks.

I replaced the two gaskets & used the Ford-recommended lubricant - motor oil - when putting everything together. Note that there are two types of gaskets: one has a circular cross section & the other has a square cross section. Either one works just fine.

Thanks, John. Appreciate the heads-up and certainly easier to make that swap now. Do you have a part # handy?

[phileas_fogg]

I knew you were gonna ask me that, and unfortunately I don't. The good news is that F5 provides an OEM Ford Mustang tank, so any Napa, Advance, or Autozone can easily get one for you.

[jrcuz]

Tony here is the part # for the fill pipe gasket

[VAHokie]

Started work on the brake lines and ran into my first question for the group. It appears I installed the F panels too far forward which leaves too small of a space to position the front brake line mount against the chassis without interfering with the UCA pivot shaft. Other than not being as rigid of a mount, any issues with affixing it to the F panel as shown below?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119308&d=1576977601

[jrcuz]

Hi Tony, there might be a problem when it comes time to install the inner splash guards. Any idea how far off they are? You might also think about installing the brake line bracket with the hole horizontal to eliminate a bend in the braided flex line. I didn't and wish I had.
JR

[VAHokie]

Hi Tony, there might be a problem when it comes time to install the inner splash guards. Any idea how far off they are? You might also think about installing the brake line bracket with the hole horizontal to eliminate a bend in the braided flex line. I didn't and wish I had.
JR

Thanks, Jerry. It's about 3/8" on the DS. I may just drill out the panels and reposition them. Fortunately, I placed all the rivets where I can get a drill to them, with only one that could potentially give me hard time. I had the horizontal placement of the bracket in my notes from the build school, thanks for the reminder!

[Cruzzz]

Mine are also close but work perfect. See post 43 in my build thread linked below for pictures.

[VAHokie]

Thanks for the sharing, Cruzzz. I ended up removing the DS F panel and moving it back ~1/2". Jrcuz's note about tire fitment was a good callout and figured it's easier to make the change now then later on in the build. Cleaning the silicone off the frame and F panel was not fun! In moving the F panel back I was able to reuse most of the previously drilled holes in the F panel, but there are 4 that I couldn't. The type A in me doesn't like seeing those imperfections, but figure they won't be seen by anyone and I can always fill them with something later if it really bothers me.

I ended up placing the flexible brake mount on the inside of the F panel using 3/16 rivets as I had mocked up before. I think this makes for a cleaner look and it appears a few folks have done the same, so I don't think there's cause for concern.

Question: The instructions have you tightening down the caliper banjo bolts to 29 ft-lbs, but I recall reading that others have raised concern about doing this and possibly just leaving it hand tight - what's everyone doing?

Here's the PS all set-up and you can see the DS in the distance behind it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119429&d=1577205578

[cv2065]

Question: The instructions have you tightening down the caliper banjo bolts to 29 ft-lbs, but I recall reading that others have raised concern about doing this and possibly just leaving it hand tight - what's everyone doing?

Don’t tighten to 29 ft-lbs. I snapped a couple of bolts myself before realizing. I sent FFR about is as well so maybe they’d make a revision. Just snug up initially by hand. Then if you have a leak when testing the system, just tighten slightly until the leak stops. Doesn’t take much.

[phileas_fogg]

Don’t tighten to 29 ft-lbs. I snapped a couple of bolts myself before realizing. I sent FFR about is as well so maybe they’d make a revision. Just snug up initially by hand. Then if you have a leak when testing the system, just tighten slightly until the leak stops. Doesn’t take much.

Agree whole-heartedly. Snug them up, check for leaks (several pressure cycles including a 15-20 minute one), adjust as necessary.


John

[VAHokie]

Agree whole-heartedly. Snug them up, check for leaks (several pressure cycles including a 15-20 minute one), adjust as necessary.


John

Thanks for confirming!

[VAHokie]

Per phileas_fogg and jrcuz's recommendations, I pulled the fuel tank to 1) replace the Seal-all gasket material for the fuel pick-up and fuel level sender and 2) replace the provided fuel filler neck rubber gasket with the OEM Ford part# F4ZZ 9072 DA (https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-filler-pipe-seal-f4zz9072da) (I ended picking this up from a local Ford dealer vs. ordering online). For the replacement sealant, I opted for the Permatex Gasket Dressing and Sealant (https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-permashield-fuel-resistant-gasket-dressing-flange-sealant/). Straight forward swap with the most time-consuming part being the removal of the hardened Seal-all gasket materials from the fuel tank surface.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119528&d=1577546828

For folks considering swapping out the fuel filler neck rubber gasket, I'm not sure that you necessarily need too. In comparing the kit-provided version and the OEM part, they appear very similar in material, thickness, etc. Not sure if FFR has upgraded the kit-supplied part given some of the issues folks have experienced. Here are a couple of side-by-side views of the two gaskets (kit-provided on left, OEM Ford on right). The only difference I can tell is that the inner lip is slightly larger/thicker which you can see in the second pic below.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119526&d=1577546792

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119527&d=1577546799

While I had the fuel tank out, I also took the time to apply some black chassis paint to the filler neck for some added protection. Taped off the area that would sit within the tank and also where the fuel cap will seat to avoid anything from flaking off in the future and ending up in the tank. Once painted, applied a couple coats of clear for added protection. Also painted the fuel filler neck bracket.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119523&d=1577546775

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119525&d=1577546782

[VAHokie]

I had plans to use the CNC triple remote reservoirs that so many others have used in their builds. Unfortunately, I didn't order them prior to the company going out of business so I was left sourcing an alternative. I elected to go with the Jamar triple remote reservoir (https://www.kartek.com/parts/jamar-performance-billet-aluminum-triple-chamber-remote-reservoir-for-front-rear-brakes-and-clutch.html). It's a bit pricey but I like the fluid capacity it has and the black powder coated finish works with my build theme. Using a 2.5" x 2.5" 90 degree angle steel bar (https://www.mcmaster.com/9017k224), fabricated a bracket to go underneath the 3/4" upper frame tube just in front of the DS footbox. Per other recommendations, placed the front edge of the reservoirs no more than 11" from the front of the DS footbox to avoid interference with the hood struts. As it sits now, it's 10" exactly. Also positioned it so that the reservoir caps don't exceed 1/4" above the frame.

Here are all the parts used for the install.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119530&d=1577546874

Here's a view from behind to see how it's installed to the frame.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119532&d=1577546890

And the finished product.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119533&d=1577546897

[VAHokie]

Getting ready to install the brake lines and quick question for those that have used the kit-supplied lines: The brake lines have different length fittings installed on either end. Does it matter how these are oriented, e.g. should the longer/shorter fitting be used at the MC or flexible brake line connections, or in the union points?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119522&d=1577546748

[jrcuz]

Nice choice on the reservoirs, Tony. I looks,like I have to paint my filler pipe now.
JR

[VAHokie]

Nice choice on the reservoirs, Tony. I looks,like I have to paint my filler pipe now.
JR

Thanks, Jerry. Painting the filler pipe certainly isn't necessary and will likely never be seen, but a nice touch. At the very least, I think it's good to apply some clear for added protection against the elements.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Getting ready to install the brake lines and quick question for those that have used the kit-supplied lines: The brake lines have different length fittings installed on either end. Does it matter how these are oriented, e.g. should the longer/shorter fitting be used at the MC or flexible brake line connections, or in the union points?



For our purposes it does not matter.

Jeff

[VAHokie]

For our purposes it does not matter.

Jeff

Thanks for confirming, Jeff!

[bobm488]

Thanks for the sharing, Cruzzz. I ended up removing the DS F panel and moving it back ~1/2". Jrcuz's note about tire fitment was a good callout and figured it's easier to make the change now then later on in the build. Cleaning the silicone off the frame and F panel was not fun! In moving the F panel back I was able to reuse most of the previously drilled holes in the F panel, but there are 4 that I couldn't. The type A in me doesn't like seeing those imperfections, but figure they won't be seen by anyone and I can always fill them with something later if it really bothers me.

I ended up placing the flexible brake mount on the inside of the F panel using 3/16 rivets as I had mocked up before. I think this makes for a cleaner look and it appears a few folks have done the same, so I don't think there's cause for concern.

Question: The instructions have you tightening down the caliper banjo bolts to 29 ft-lbs, but I recall reading that others have raised concern about doing this and possibly just leaving it hand tight - what's everyone doing?

Here's the PS all set-up and you can see the DS in the distance behind it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119429&d=1577205578

I had to add a 90 deg fitting so the tire would not rub the brake line.

119730

119731

[VAHokie]

I had to add a 90 deg fitting so the tire would not rub the brake line.

119730

119731

I may encounter the same thing but don't have my wheels/tires yet to test it out. I may go that route just to be safe as it was a recommendation from the build school instructors and others have done the same.

[jrcuz]

Good fix, Tony.

[VAHokie]

Been awhile since my last post but have been plugging away at a few things, specifically installation of the Breeze front battery tray and the rear flex brake hose mounts in preparation for running the hard lines. As with all the Breeze parts I've used to date, the front battery tray is a quality part. I had never tapped a hole before so this was a new learning experience for me. I picked up a tap and die set and the required drill bit sizes that corresponded with the tap sizes. I found lubricating the tap and hole sufficiently, as well as tapping the hole in a step fashion with a full turn forward and half turn back to clear out the shavings worked well. I'm now planning to tap the cushion clamps to the frame vs. riveting them when I run the hard brake lines. Here's a pic of the installed piece.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121411&d=1580087306

Next up were the rear DS and PS flex house mounts. There's a couple of different places you can install these and I opted for the diagonal tube for the UCA. This location placed it closest to the caliper fitting for the flex hose to run too and it created to clear paths for the hard brake lines with the supplied "T" fitting. Here are pics of the DS and PS.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121412&d=1580087324

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121413&d=1580087337

[VAHokie]

Next up are the hard brake lines. Couple of questions for folks:

1) For those running the Nicopp lines, is a rock guard mandatory or are the lines sturdy enough to handle everyday road debris?

2) For the front run from the MC to the DS "T" fitting, the instructions have you going out alongside the bottom 3/4" tube for a straight shot to the fitting, which I like. But I see a lot of folks going out the top and down alongside the upper 3/4" tube and then straight down behind the F-panel. I'm assuming folks are taking the higher path because the lower 3/4" tube is close to the headers - same reason folks take the MC to the rear of the car on the inside of the footbox, which I plan to do also. Here's what I mocked up for the higher path. The line is sitting a little high coming out of the footbox as I haven't clearance the panel yet to allow it to set in. Will do that once I decide this is the best of the two paths.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121414&d=1580087357

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121415&d=1580087373

[Cruzzz]

Welcome back! Lol. I have been MIA for a while as well. Plan to do a mass update this week. On the brake lines...I didn’t use a gravel guard because many stated it mostly just gathered dirt, salt, etc and may cause more problems then solved. I also ran my front lines along the top rail then down mostly because it was a cleaner routing and once the motor is in there is a lot going on closer to the bottom rail including the headers you noted. You can see my routing for the front and back in posts #43-44 of my build thread. I was able to use standard pre-made lengths of Niccop from the chain auto parts store. I included the required lengths in post 43. Went in very easy. Bent it by hand.

[jrcuz]

Welcome back Tony, work looks good. Your planned brake line routing looks good. Now I wish I had gone with the Nicopp lines.
JR

[VAHokie]

Finally got around to installing/running the hard brake lines. As this was my first time every doing this, I took some advice from EdwardB's thread and purchased a roll of copper tubing from the local hardware store to dial in the routing before transferring it over to the provided steel hard lines. This stuff is very malleable which makes it forgiving and easy to work with. I was able to get the DS to PS front line mocked up going along the front of the x-member and proceeded to transfer it over to the steel line using a bending tool. Long story short, it was evident this was my first time bending lines and I eventually scrapped the provided steel lines in favor of Nicopp as it's easier to work with and has the added benefit of being corrosion resistant. I ended up purchasing pre-flared lines from the local autoparts store and was able to do everything with four (4) 60" lines and one (1) 40" line. Here's how everything turned out. I haven't affixed the lines to the frame yet as I want to bleed the system and ensure everything is good to go before final install.

Word of caution for folks who opt for purchasing the pre-flared Nicopp lines from a local autoparts store: be sure to check the flares on the end. Many of them had askew flares on the end like you see below. It wasn't an issue for me as jrcuz lent me his professional flaring tool which made quick work of putting quality flares on the end, but for someone who doesn't have access to the tool, it might be a different story.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123184&d=1582599333

Birdseye view of the pedalbox with the rear line to the left so that it has a straight shot to run down through the inner footbox, and the front line to the right to exit out the top front face of the footbox.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123185&d=1582599354

View of the front brake line exiting the top front face of the footbox.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123187&d=1582599376

View of the front brake line connection to the DS T fitting.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123188&d=1582599383

Routing across the front of the x member.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123190&d=1582599407

Final connection to the PS.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123192&d=1582599431

[VAHokie]

For the run to the rear, I came down the inboard side of the DS footbox and out through the bottom of the floor.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123191&d=1582599416

My only union underneath the DS. Note: I still need to remove the leftover adhesive from the product tags on the ends of the brake lines. I'm thinking baby oil and a cottonball, but open to suggestions.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123186&d=1582599362

Here's the back half of the rear run. Although it angles up and isn't the typical 90 degree turn up the square tube, it works really well and sits tight up against the frame.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123194&d=1582599446

I don't believe UCA travel will impact the placement of the line here. I think if it did, it would mean a blown shock and I'd have bigger issues. Open to differing opinions though.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123193&d=1582599439

Here's the rear T fitting.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123189&d=1582599395

And the final run between the two rear brakes. Event though this is probably the easiest of the lines to run being mostly a straight shot, it took three lines to get it right. Part of that is because I was shortening the 40" line to fit exactly and, you know how that goes, cut a little short and you're done. It's still not as clean as I'd like it to be but it should work.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123195&d=1582599454

[jrcuz]

Wow Tony, you've been busy. Glad all went well. I think I used about 3 store bought "extra" pieces also.
JR

[Caddy Dad]

Hi Tony,
Lines look good! I also ran my rear brake lines as a straight shot, but I bent a pig tail in each end to give me some margin as I'm still challenged at cutting the tubing to the exact length. That way I could shorten or lengthen a bit for an exact fit. I used Ni-Cop for my fuel lines but used the lines that came with the kit for the brakes. If I ever have to do it over again, I'd go with Ni-Cop every where.

Cheers!

[VAHokie]

Wow Tony, you've been busy. Glad all went well. I think I used about 3 store bought "extra" pieces also.
JR

Thanks, Jerry. Really appreciate you lending me the professional flaring tool. It made quick and beautiful work of these Nicopp lines.


Hi Tony,
Lines look good! I also ran my rear brake lines as a straight shot, but I bent a pig tail in each end to give me some margin as I'm still challenged at cutting the tubing to the exact length. That way I could shorten or lengthen a bit for an exact fit. I used Ni-Cop for my fuel lines but used the lines that came with the kit for the brakes. If I ever have to do it over again, I'd go with Ni-Cop every where.

Cheers!

Thanks, Frank. If I end up going with hard lines for the fuel lines, i'll definitely go with Nicopp. Still on the fence between the hard lines and flexible nylon race hose.

[VAHokie]

Working on a bunch of stuff over the past couple of weeks to include installation of the radiator with Breeze upper and lower mounts, refinishing the provided brake reservoir to be re-purposed as the gas tank vent filter (why waste a perfectly good part?!?), and finalizing the brake system so it can be bled - more on all of these things soon once I've wrapped them up. During all this, made some decisions around wheel selection and insulation. For the wheels, I wanted something modern and elected to go with the new FFR gasser wheels. I debated and spent A LOT of time considering and researching prices for forged wheels from Forgeline, Billet Specialties, US Mags, etc. Found a couple I liked but in the end couldn't justify spending $1K per wheel and didn't want to take the risk of having to figure out the appropriate backspacing, offset and other measurements (although fairly straight forward) needed to ensure they fit properly.

Here's one of the front wheels "mounted". They'll be going off to powder coating soon to be refinished in a satin black.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123969&d=1583979222

I also pulled the trigger on the interior insulation. Thanks to everyone who weighed in on my Insulation Preferences thread (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?35159-Cockpit-Insulation-Preferences&p=401269#post401269), I had a ton of options to research and ultimately settled on the SecondSkin Damplifier Pro heat/sound insulation. It's at the higher end of the price per sq. ft. spectrum but I was able to score 60 sq ft of their B-stock for a steep discount, which actually brought it under budget.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123970&d=1583979273

[jrcuz]

Hi Tony, good choice on the wheels and second skin. I"ve had my heat/sound insulation from Eastwood for quite a while should be installing it soon.
JR

[VAHokie]

Almost have the radiator install wrapped up, just need to finish cleaning up the horizontal 3/4 tube after cutting off the support tubes to allow for the Breeze upper radiator support hinge. Also went with the Breeze lower radiator support bracket. After mocking up the radiator to the suggested angle (58 vs. 51 degrees for me as I have the ReplicaParts aluminum radiator panel), I was able to get the lower radiator support bracket in position.

Here's a pick of the lower radiator support hardware from Breeze with a couple coats of chassis paint and clear for protection. I also did the same for the upper radiator support hinge and hardware.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124676&d=1585009542

Here's the radiator in position and ready to be affixed to the lower support brace. Holding off on going any further until I can address the clean-up mentioned above.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124677&d=1585009564

Also turned my attention to applying some of the insulation to the DS footbox. Many others recommend applying this before riveting the panels in place and I now see why. I'll second, third, or whatever number we're on that recommendation. It is tight in there and I think I may even try to apply some of the carpet piece as well. I find the insulation extremely easy to work with and the process of applying it to the panels to be painless, although time consuming.

Some of the panels like the DS footbox access panel required a Frankenstein approach due to the hole and rivnuts I have installed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124678&d=1585009585

Other panels like the DS footbox top outside panel are straightforward.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124679&d=1585009600

I have all the DS panels covered up until where the panels overlap and rivets will be placed. I may end up covering those areas up after everything is installed, although that would prevent me from doing any initial carpet install as noted early. Something i'll need to spend more time thinking about, although recommendations are always welcome! To ensure proper coverage of the insulation, I needed to install all of the panels to mark the overlaps. In doing so, I got my first look at many of the engine bay PC'd parts installed, which I have to say looks pretty good. I'll be tackling the PS footbox and firewall next.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124680&d=1585009626

[jrcuz]

You've been busy Tony. Looks good.
JR

[Caddy Dad]

Looks good! I did not insulate the access panel of my DS footbox before installation. I didn't think it was needed, but now rethinking that decision. Maybe I can put a small custom piece in there but I'm thinking I'll just use as is. The juice may not be worth the squeeze for me.

Cheers!

[JB in NOVA]

VAHokie, I just finished reviewing your entire build to date. Very impressive! Thanks for including so much detail. It is very helpful for newbies like me. I'm in McLean, so hopefully we can get together at some point.

[jrcuz]

Tony, here are the pics. I couldn't see how to add them to my pm.
JR

[VAHokie]

Woefully behind in updating this build thread, but certainly not for a lack of wrenching on the car. Lots of good progress over the past two months, with a few highs and lows that i'll share over the next couple of posts. First up, a real kick in the b@!!z with the radiator install. Hopefully others following behind me will learn from my mistakes.

As noted in post #214 above, I went with a number of the Breeze radiator components, including the upper radiator hinge mount. Installation requires cutting off the tabs on the horizontal brace - easy enough. Removed both with ease but managed to slightly (~1") cut into the edge of the horizontal brace. OCD kicked in and I convinced myself that I couldn't have this blemish on the car. I enlisted the help of my next door neighbor who does various welding projects around the house and on his trucks to lay a small weld bead along the edge to close it up, which I would clean up, paint and on one would be the wiser. Long story short, a combination of excessive heat, thin metal, or other factors that I couldn't piece together, it resulted in more holes along the bottom edge, almost as if someone took a cheese grater to it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129338&d=1591059817

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129339&d=1591059829

Spoke to FFR Tech and they confirmed the horizontal bar is structural. Despite how bad it looks, the bar is still very solid and doesn't have any give, although my yanking on it isn't anywhere near the forces it will likely endure on turns, etc. I settled on cutting a piece of 3/4" angle iron to reinforce the bar, which I confirmed with FFR would be an acceptable solution.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129342&d=1591059849

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129341&d=1591059842

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129340&d=1591059835

I ended up painting the horizontal bar with some POR15 and plan to put silicone between it and the angle iron to ensure a water tight seal so as not to allow moisture in there. For those experienced builders out there, would be interested to hear your thoughts on this solution.

[VAHokie]

My transmission will have a hydraulic clutch which left the hole for clutch cable free to run the remote reservoir tubes through to the MCs. I had a heck of a time finding a grommet that would fit the hole, eventually settling on drilling it out to a 1.5" diameter and using a grommet that MSumners had left over and was kind enough to send me (thanks, Mike!). Opened up the grommet to fit the three tubes and we're in business. For anyone interested in taking this approach, here's the grommet used (https://www.mcmaster.com/2633N15).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129344&d=1591061219

[VAHokie]

I ordered my engine and trans package at the end of April, which included an upgraded fuel system to include an in-tank fuel pump and hangar, 3/8" nylon race hose, regulator, wiring and all the AN fittings needed to route the feed and return lines. I had the builder send this in advance so I could mock up the lines to the engine bay in advance of the engine arriving in late June. I opted for this upgrade for a couple of reasons, but mostly because plumbing an in-tank fuel pump with feed and return lines now will make any possible future EFI upgrade much easier.

The Aeromotive Stealth 340 pump and hangar are shipped ready to drop right into the tank without any modifications. It took longer pulling the gas tank from the car and getting it on my workbench (not necessary, but makes pump install easier) than installing the actual fuel pump. Despite being extra cautious and taking my time, I managed to knick and expose one of the wires on the edge of the tank opening.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129346&d=1591063153

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129345&d=1591063139

Spoke to Aeromotive Tech, some folks on the forum and others, and the general belief is that it would be alright as-is from a you-won't-blow-up-the-car perspective, but the exposed wire could corrode overtime being exposed to the gasoline and do you really want to have an exposed wire weighing on your mind at all times. No thanks. I have a some Molex Perma-seal butt connectors on their way that are resistant to fuel and that others on the forum have used for connecting in-tank wires with great success.

[VAHokie]

While waiting for the butt connectors, I started routing my feed and return lines along the PS side frame which you'll see in the next couple of pics. As the fuel lines enter and exit underneath the PS seating area, I mounted them up against the bottom vs. against the 4" tube. I did this because mounting them up against the 4" tube seemed to place them too close to the edges of the frame base, which I felt might lead to an eventual failure in the future due to excessive rubbing. But in placing them under the frame base, it pulls the hoses out away from the frame upon enter and exit of that area, which also has it's potential challenges. Interested to hear what folks think here - better to have up against the frame rail or OK as-is?

Here's the nylon race hose. High quality stuff and paired with the black AN fittings, it's going to look nice.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129347&d=1591063984

Here's are the feed and return lines leaving the trunk area towards the PS 4" horizontal frame tube.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129348&d=1591063990

Coming down the rectangular tube to the 4" round tube. Note, the lines aren't tight in place which is why you're seeing a little slop in the line.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129349&d=1591063997

Entry underneath the back side of the PS cockpit. You can see here how it's mounted up underneath and then back against the 4" frame tube.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129350&d=1591064009

Heading out the front side of the PS cockpit and turning up into the engine bay.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129351&d=1591064016

Here's a birds eye view of the hoses entering/exiting the PS cockpit section and you can see the gaps I reference above.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129352&d=1591064027

[jrcuz]

Tony, you have been busy. That looks like a good fix for the horizontal tube/hinge mount. I originally did something very similar with the hyd. lines running through the clutch cable hole and was able to get the grommets at Lowes. On the knicked wire I couldn't sleep at night either, sounds like a good fix. On the fuel line routing I don't see any problems so far. Thanks for the updates.
JR

[Caddy Dad]

Fuel line runs look ok to me. Maybe add some AN hose separators to tidy it up a bit? Or you could use zip ties as separators as we learned in the build school (a lot cheaper too). But everything else is looking good!

[VAHokie]

Fuel line runs look ok to me. Maybe add some AN hose separators to tidy it up a bit? Or you could use zip ties as separators as we learned in the build school (a lot cheaper too). But everything else is looking good!

Thanks, Frank. I’m going to take another look at putting them up against the 4” tube the whole way back to front. If still concerned with possible rubbing I’ll keep the where they are and use zip ties to pull them closer together. Still doesn’t entirely address those gaps but will help.

[phileas_fogg]

Hey Tony,

Glad to hear you've been making steady progress.

About those fuel lines...I'd think long & hard about the sag of a soft line over that long run to the front. Personally, I strongly prefer a pair of 3/8" hard lines, which you can find at any auto parts store. You can either use the factory flares & quick connects, or cut the flares off & go with fittings from Breeze (you'll have to give Mark a call as they're no longer listed on his website). If you decide to make your own flares, recall that quick connects take a 45* taper and AN fittings take a 37* taper.


John

[GTBradley]

I did the ss flex tubing (though I have the single line) and ran it in a similar fashion. Though mine is on the round tube all the way. There was a little sag so after 1500 miles of driving I added more mount locations.

[VAHokie]

Hey Tony,

Glad to hear you've been making steady progress.

About those fuel lines...I'd think long & hard about the sag of a soft line over that long run to the front. Personally, I strongly prefer a pair of 3/8" hard lines, which you can find at any auto parts store. You can either use the factory flares & quick connects, or cut the flares off & go with fittings from Breeze (you'll have to give Mark a call as they're no longer listed on his website). If you decide to make your own flares, recall that quick connects take a 45* taper and AN fittings take a 37* taper.

Thanks, John. Definitely going to tighten up the line to the 4” tube and remove any slop in it so there isn’t anything hanging off the tube.


I did the ss flex tubing (though I have the single line) and ran it in a similar fashion. Though mine is on the round tube all the way. There was a little sag so after 1500 miles of driving I added more mount locations.

Thanks, Bradley. How is the line holding up to road debris and the elements?

[GTBradley]

I haven't had any issues and being that the line is flexible I don't anticipate any debris breaking through this stuff.

These pictures are before I doubled up on the mount clips:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103428&d=1552155473 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103422&d=1552155144

[Papa]

My lines look similar -- braided lines with separators and clamps along the 4" tube:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89018&d=1531782536

[VAHokie]

Based on the recommendations of a few folks on the forum and my general uneasiness about having the fuel lines positioned off the frame tube in the two spots shown above, I went ahead and tucked them in tight.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129880&d=1592017804

No particular reason for the lines separating here other than not wanting to put another hole in the frame. I don't believe this will matter.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129881&d=1592017812

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129882&d=1592017822

[VAHokie]

The perma-seal butt connectors also arrived so I was able to fix the knicked wire on the fuel pump and get that back in the tank. I'm praying it's a solid connection so I don't have to go digging back in there for the pump again. As others have commented, these butt connectors are serious business and very solid, not to mention resistant to gas and other fluids.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129883&d=1592017843

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129890&d=1592018394

[VAHokie]

Earlier this week my engine was assembled and is in queue for the dyno, which I'll share once available. I had a particular look for the engine to match my overall scheme, and I think the builder nailed it with the blacked-out, red accent look. Only piece missing in the assembled pic below is the matte black carb with red accents. It's rated at 425/425 but I made some changes to the intake, carb, etc. that will likely impact that. Even still, it'll have plenty of git-up-and-go!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129884&d=1592017856

[VAHokie]

I've been avoiding the wiring portion of the build like the plague - it's the one piece that intimidates me. Not sure why, it just does. But with the engine/trans arriving in ~2 weeks, I need to get this taken care of and dove right in. With all the different harnesses laid out in the car and the fuse panel and fuel inertia switch installed, I turned my attention to the dash. I went with a competition dash layout and ultra lite gauges for a more modern look. Doing the competition dash requires purchasing one from a vendor or getting a blank dash from FFR and doing the work yourself, which is what I ended up doing (Big thanks to Caddy Dad for the detailed PDF with measurements - it made laying it out very easy). I used 3.25" (speedo/tach) and 2" (all other gauges) hole saws for the initial cuts and then followed it with a curved file to ease up to a snug fit. I'm still on the fence for the dash covering, which will require pulling out the file again to open up the hole. Little time consuming, but easy enough to do and ensures a nice snug fit.

Here's the dash mocked up with the gauges. You'll see blue painters tape indicating the location of other various buttons, switches, etc., some of which I haven't fully settled on.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129888&d=1592017948

[TMartinLVNV]

Earlier this week my engine was assembled and is in queue for the dyno, which I'll share once available. I had a particular look for the engine to match my overall scheme, and I think the builder nailed it with the blacked-out, red accent look. Only piece missing in the assembled pic below is the matte black carb with red accents. It's rated at 425/425 but I made some changes to the intake, carb, etc. that will likely impact that. Even still, it'll have plenty of git-up-and-go!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129884&d=1592017856

That looks sexy!

[TMartinLVNV]

I've been avoiding the wiring portion of the build like the plague - it's the one piece that intimidates me. Not sure why, it just does. But with the engine/trans arriving in ~2 weeks, I need to get this taken care of and dove right in. With all the different harnesses laid out in the car and the fuse panel and fuel inertia switch installed, I turned my attention to the dash. I went with a competition dash layout and ultra lite gauges for a more modern look. Doing the competition dash requires purchasing one from a vendor or getting a blank dash from FFR and doing the work yourself, which is what I ended up doing (Big thanks to Caddy Dad for the detailed PDF with measurements - it made laying it out very easy). I used 3.25" (speedo/tach) and 2" (all other gauges) hole saws for the initial cuts and then followed it with a curved file to ease up to a snug fit. I'm still on the fence for the dash covering, which will require pulling out the file again to open up the hole. Little time consuming, but easy enough to do and ensures a nice snug fit.

Here's the dash mocked up with the gauges. You'll see blue painters tape indicating the location of other various buttons, switches, etc., some of which I haven't fully settled on.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129888&d=1592017948

I was scared of the wiring for sure. BigBlocker came over and got me started and then I did the rest on my own. Looking back on it now, I consider it one of the funnest parts of the build. I think it is because I learned so much. If I could do it again, it would be so much neater than how I did it. Of course, no one will ever see it. The beer fridge stayed closed when I was working on the wiring :cool:

[VAHokie]

I was scared of the wiring for sure. BigBlocker came over and got me started and then I did the rest on my own. Looking back on it now, I consider it one of the funnest parts of the build. I think it is because I learned so much. If I could do it again, it would be so much neater than how I did it. Of course, no one will ever see it. The beer fridge stayed closed when I was working on the wiring :cool:

I see you're running the autometer gauges too, so I may be reaching out for consultation!

[TMartinLVNV]

I see you're running the autometer gauges too, so I may be reaching out for consultation!

Sure thing. This post will come in handy for you very soon :D
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?33080-Terry-in-Las-Vegas-Build-right-side-exhaust-pipe-woes&p=383523&viewfull=1#post383523

[jrcuz]

Hi Tony, I'm still wary of doing wiring. I was the same with running brake lines etc but when I finished I wondered why I had put it off. I'm sure you will do fine.
JR

[VAHokie]

Brake Bleeding
It's been awhile since my last post, but a lot going on with the build. I'm going to try to be more consistent with updating this thread. I had ordered my tires (Michelin PS2s) Memorial Day weekend and wanted to get them on the car and make it roller. To do that, I needed to wrap up bleeding the brakes. Following the lead of others, after bench bleeding the master cylinders, I attempted pressure bleeding the system through a homemade system that comprised of a spare reservoir cap that I tapped with a schrader valve into the top and then used a bicycle pump to pressurize the system to the recommended 4-5 psi (based on other threads).

Parts and tools used for the tapped reservoir cap.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132687&d=1596079548

Finished product.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132688&d=1596079555

Pressure bleeding with bicycle pump. I couldn't get the reservoirs to pressurize as the cap wasn't making an airtight seal, so all it effectively did was push fluid through the system. Other than repeatedly having to check reservoirs to ensure they didn't go dry, it was sufficient to get fluid throughout the system.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132689&d=1596079562

With fluid throughout the system, I elected to bleed the system of all air the ol fashioned way. In doing so, I noticed my rear PS caliper had a fluid leak. Quick call to FFR and I had a replacement in hand a short time later (great customer service!).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129740&d=1591758997

Unfortunately, when installing the new caliper mounting bracket, I couldn't get the centering notch to align in the middle of the rotor. No combination of shifting, removing shims, discussing with FFR tech, etc. could get the desired result.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132684&d=1596078825
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132685&d=1596078832

In the end I determined/settled on the fact that the replacement caliper mounting bracket was slightly larger than the original, which you can see in the pic below. I believe the larger "shoulder" (left box) was pushing the notch further outboard (right box). Here you can see the old (top) and new (bottom) calipers lined up side-by-side.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132686&d=1596078840

To close this out, I ended up using the old caliper mounting bracket and the new caliper to get the desired alignment and all is right in the world. The system is bled and I have a hard pedal.

[VAHokie]

Tires
As mentioned above, I ordered Michelin PS2s in 255/35/18 and 315/30/18, the recommended size for the 25th anniversary "gasser" wheels that I have. My preference was to go with the Nitto 555 G2s that so many others have had a good experience with (and cost effective too!) but their 315s have too large of an aspect ratio that makes the rolling diameter of the tire too large on 18" tires. Long story short, three different tire shops later (including both a BMW race shop and custom truck shop who have high-end equipment) and no one could get the tires on the wheels. Other builders have had luck getting the PS2s and Yokohama Advans on, so perhaps it's something with my wheels. I ended up returning the PS2s and am going to try the Yokohama Advans through another local tire shop that swears they can get the tires on the wheels. Challenge accepted. I'll share an update once I get them mounted.

[VAHokie]

Engine Update
Before my engine hit the dyno, the builder ended up using it for a photoshoot to do some Facebook promotions, which I thought was pretty cool.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132701&d=1596081675

Here's the engine on the dyno (https://youtu.be/OWhL9c7URik). 418 HP / 420 TQ.

All crated up with the ignition system, carburetor, TKO600 and other parts.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132702&d=1596081838

It's now sitting in my garage awaiting install, which will have to wait until I can work through a few more pieces of the wiring and ignition system.

[jrcuz]

Nice Tony, I like the blacked-out look. Good numbers too.
JR

[VAHokie]

Nice Tony, I like the blacked-out look. Good numbers too.
JR

Thanks, JR. It has plenty of giddy-up!

[jrcuz]

Tony, don't forget you will need to dial indicate your bell housing to make sure your TKO warranty is OK if you have problems in the future.
JR

[460.465USMC]

VAHokie, I just finished your build thread to date. Thanks for your pictures, documentation, and passing along lessons learned. I must have 10 or so tips recorded in my notes for when my build gets underway. Appreciate your investment in the F5 building community!

[BadAsp427]

Tony, not that it matters at this point, but the PS2s are standard on some Porsches. Perhaps they could have installed them. Either way, the tire shop usually has to mount the wheels backwards on their machines in order to mount the tires. But I would rather have the shop tell me they can't or don't want to do it than mess them up. FYI, that engine looks mean. Very nice...

[GoDadGo]

Christmas In July!
.....Sweet!

NOTE:..It appears you are running a GM Saginaw style power steering pump.
...........If you are, please know that you may need to restrict it if it didn't come that way from BluePrint.
...........Those pumps make a bit more pressure than the Ford units so they tend to over-boost the steering.

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/60791/10002/-1

[VAHokie]

VAHokie, I just finished your build thread to date. Thanks for your pictures, documentation, and passing along lessons learned. I must have 10 or so tips recorded in my notes for when my build gets underway. Appreciate your investment in the F5 building community!

Thanks for the note and great to hear you were able to extract some value out of it. I hope to impart some wisdom, cautionary tales, etc. for those fellow "noobs" following behind me. I've learned and have benefited so much from the knowledge, generosity and willingness of the great folks on this forum that it's the least I can do!


Tony, not that it matters at this point, but the PS2s are standard on some Porsches. Perhaps they could have installed them. Either way, the tire shop usually has to mount the wheels backwards on their machines in order to mount the tires. But I would rather have the shop tell me they can't or don't want to do it than mess them up. FYI, that engine looks mean. Very nice...

Thanks, Carl. Everyone tried installing them from the rear as required by them being reverse mount wheels, but no luck. I shared here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?36431-Tires-for-25th-Anniversary-Wheels) what they were saying was potentially the issue. I'll give the Yokohama's a try and if those don't work, i'll be swapping out the wheels for something else, likely what I had originally planned on going with (Forgestar F14s). Thanks for the compliment on the engine. I had a very specific look I wanted and I think the builder did a great job.


Christmas In July!
.....Sweet!

NOTE:..It appears you are running a GM Saginaw style power steering pump.
...........If you are, please know that you may need to restrict it if it didn't come that way from BluePrint.
...........Those pumps make a bit more pressure than the Ford units so they tend to over-boost the steering.

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/60791/10002/-1

Great eye, GoDadDO, it is a Saginaw pump and I plan to pick up a restrictor from Breeze with my next order.

[Papa]

Christmas In July!
.....Sweet!

NOTE:..It appears you are running a GM Saginaw style power steering pump.
...........If you are, please know that you may need to restrict it if it didn't come that way from BluePrint.
...........Those pumps make a bit more pressure than the Ford units so they tend to over-boost the steering.

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/60791/10002/-1

BluePrint ships the Mustang-specific pump, so no restrictor is required. Can't say what other builders provide.