GTBradley's build - how far will a Coyote go w/no rad. cap?

[GTBradley]

078 Panels - Total Square Footage - Page 2 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?30668-GTBradley-s-build-Intermittent-wipers-and-washer/page2)
082 Front Suspension - Page 3 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?30668-GTBradley-s-build-Intermittent-wipers-and-washer/page3)
097 IRS Center Section
100 Rear Brakes
101 Coyote Arrived
123 Routing of Rear Brake Lines - Page 4 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?30668-GTBradley-s-build-Intermittent-wipers-and-washer/page4)
131 Video Tip for Pulling Studs into Hub
132 Shocks
133 Panel Treatment - Natural Aluminum with Clear Coat
146 Power Steering Rack and Steering Shaft
153 Tires and Wheel Weight
159 Clutch Throw Out Arm
169 Panels and Drop Trunk - Page 5 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?30668-GTBradley-s-build-Intermittent-wipers-and-washer/page5)
170 Cheap Bench Top Bandsaw Mod
172 Fuel System
174 Brake Lines 2
182 Cockpit Sound and Heat Insulation
186 Electrical
197 Coyote - Installation
218 Transmission Spacers - Page 6 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?30668-GTBradley-s-build-Intermittent-wipers-and-washer/page6)
223 Radiator Mounting - Breeze
226 KRC Power Steering Reservoir
232 Instruments
250 Glove Box - Full Size - Page 7 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?30668-GTBradley-s-build-Intermittent-wipers-and-washer/page7)
251 Headers and Side Pipes
252 Heater with Firewall Forward and Full-Size Glove Box
255 Intake
256 Couplers for the Rear Over Riders
257 Cubby and Roll Bar
259 Dash Mount Using Hidden Fastener
260 Buttoning up the Driver's Foot Box
261 Tunnel Top - Leather
264 Body Installed
265 First Engine Start
268 First Drive
270 Trunk Struts and Hinges
272 Carpeting
279 Seat Heaters
283 Off to Paint - Page 8 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?30668-GTBradley-s-build-Intermittent-wipers-and-washer/page8)
291 Body Buck Mod
292 Gas-N Side Pipes
303 Painter Updates - Molded Hood Scoop
307 Body Painted
339 Wipers - Page 9 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?30668-GTBradley-s-build-Intermittent-wipers-and-washer/page9)
341 Spinner O-rings
343 Seat Brackets - Breeze
344 Wheel Well Panels
347 Broken Windscreen - Replaced with Lexan
363 Colorado Registration Process - Arapahoe County - Page 10 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?30668-GTBradley-s-build-Intermittent-wipers-and-washer/page10)
367 Badges
370 Radiator Protection - Nomex Honeycomb
377 Fan Controller to Reduce Fan Run-Time and Noise
385 License Plate Mod
390 Factory Five Floor Mats Mod
398 Driveshaft Safety Loop
401 Clutch Cable Repair and Upgrade - Page 11 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?30668-GTBradley-s-build-Intermittent-wipers-and-washer/page11)
424 Whitby Motorcars Soft Top and Tonneau Installed and Time-Lapse Installation video
428 Dyno Tune
431 Seat Repair
434 Self Cancelling Turn Signal
439 KRC Power Steering Pump Flow Valve Change
453 Phone Mount using Dash Support Tube - Page 12 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?30668-GTBradley-s-build-Intermittent-wipers-and-washer/page12)
470 Foot Box Vents with Blowers
483 3500 Mile Report - Likes and Dislikes with time breakdown - Page 13 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?30668-GTBradley-s-build-Intermittent-wipers-and-washer/page13)
489 Inflatable Lumbar Support
554 Painting Coyote Engine Covers - Page 14 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?30668-GTBradley-s-build-Intermittent-wipers-and-washer/page14)
564 Luggage Rack - Page 15 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?30668-GTBradley-s-build-Intermittent-wipers-and-washer/page15)
585 Intermittent Wipe and Wash Function Added to the Lucas Wipers
599 Powder coating large items - DIY
609 Forte's Front Anti-sway Bar - Page 16 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?30668-GTBradley-s-build-Getting-Setup-for-Autocross&p=487046&viewfull=1#post487046)
612 Autocross Spare Wheels and Tires
614 Autocross Improvements
615 Side Pipe Sound Suppressing Inserts
623 Gas-N side pipe sound mod that is removable
639 Radiant heat deflectors for the vent tubes
641 Cruise control for drive-by-wire Coyote gas pedal - Page 17 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?30668-GTBradley-s-build-Drive-by-wire-Cruise-Control&p=512140&viewfull=1#post512140)
*6/26/2020 EDIT: Graduation thread posted:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?36327-Pleased-to-Graduate-FFR-9506-Rocky-Mountain-Drive-Video

July 2020 POM (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?36633-July-2020-POM-WINNER!)

3500 mile report video:

https://youtu.be/qlivJ_CQQ4I

[BadAsp427]

Welcome to the madness.... Looks like you are well planned to begin with... Just a thought, if you just purchased the 1 ton engine hoist, IMO you should return it and get the 2 ton one. It's reach is further and you will need reach... Just something to think about.

Are you going to get a Hyd Clutch or go with the cable?

Also, I have many times looked back at my own build thread and in awe say to myself, I did that... You will be glad you did your build thread.

[VAHokie]

Congrats! I have a complete date of today and Stewart said earlier this week that I should expect delivery within the first two weeks of January. Todd said to call back Thurs this upcoming week to confirm, sure you could do the same.

Looks like we have a lot of overlap on our build plans and will be starting around the same time. I'll be sure to follow your build thread.

[edwardb]

Congrats on your kit order and welcome to the madness. Feedback on your list. (1) Agreed 100%. If by "Pittsburgh 1000 lbs engine stand" that means the foldable shop crane, you definitely want the 2000 lbs version. Longer reach and way more robust. If you really mean engine stand, not sure you really need it. My understanding is the Factory Five Coyote combo comes with a stand. (2) You do know you have fuel pump and related on there twice? Once from Factory Five and once from Breeze. (3) You've got a high end build going there. I'll spare the long sales pitch, but you'll not regret power steering. I've had both manual and power and it makes a huge difference. Don't automatically think about effort either. Think better front end geometry and improved driveability.

Good luck!

[GTBradley]

Thanks, glad to be here.

It's just the engine stand. I requested FF not assemble the engine parts so my son and I can do it together. I'm still a little bummed that we aren't building our own engine. I'll rent an engine hoist when the time comes. I figure the space savings is worth it.

I am looking for input on things like the hyd clutch versus cable. My preference is hydraulic, but my preference was for anti-sway bars and manual steering and I'm going to do an about face on both of those by Monday. What's your take on hydraulic clutch?


-----
(Moved from first post to free up some room)
12/15/2018 - I ordered my Mk4 full kit in November along with the packaged Coyote engine and Tremec TKO600 transmission from Factory Five Racing. Checks have been written and the completion date is December, 22nd 2018.

Here's my advance preparation list of items ordered/purchased so far:

Amazon:

440 lbs ceiling hoist - to store the body out of the way
Security Cam
Pittsburgh 3 ton low profile floor jack
Big Red 2 ton jack stands x 4
Rubber wheel chocks x 2


Harbor Freight:

Pittsburgh 2 Ton Engine Hoist
Pittsburgh work stool


Factory Five - Fall Sale
50013 MK IV COMPLETE KIT:

16613 POWDER COATING ROADSTER CHASSIS
15440 5.0 Coyote Mounts with Transmission plate
16598 2015 IRS PARTS w/COMPLETE KIT
15442 ROADSTER COYOTE STRAIGHT TUBES
60175 31 SPLINE 2015 IRS 10.50" DRIVESHAFT
12070 BODY CUT-OUTS
16213 BLACK LEATHER SEATS UPGRADE
Power steering rack
12066 FRONT LOWER ARMS - STANDARD WIDTH
16004 FFR GPS GAUGE SET
15330 Mk4 STAINLESS STEEL BUMPER KIT
Sway bar brackets
16039 VINYL DASH WITH GLOVE BOX
15101 1.50" MK IV LH CHROME ROLL BAR UPGRADE
15659 ASSEMBLED SIDE LOUVER SET
16590 TRUNK GAS STRUT KIT
16668 2018 IRS 3.55 CENTER SECTION & SPINDLES
15368 12.88" FRONT WILWOOD BRAKES - Black
15986 12.88" 2015 IRS WILWOOD BRAKE KIT - Black
16267 COYOTE FULL LENGTH HEADERS


Forte's


COYOTE ENGINE PACKAGE & TKO-600
M-6007-M50A GEN II
M-6017-504V 2015 COMPUTER KIT COYOTE 5.0 ENGINE COVER KIT
ALTERNATOR KIT
RAM 11" X 26 CLUTCH
COYOTE MINI STARTER
BELLHOUSING, BLOCKPLATE & BOLT
CLUTCH FORK
T/O B 614014 FORD LATE USA
COYOTE CLUTCH BOLTS & DOWELS
TKO 600 .64 FORD
Canton Oil pan & P/U with plug
AIR INLET & FILTER
Coyote Install Kit (from FFR)


Factory Five Black Friday Parts Sale:

12042 Sun Visors
12049 Wind Wing Kit
12453 Battery Cut-Off Switch
12469 Aluminum Brake Duct Screens
14816 Heater/Defroster Assembly
14865 17" x 9" and 17" x 10.5" Vintage Halibrand Replica Wheels
15154 Mk4 Floor mats
15158 Mk4 Roadster Roll Bar Grommets
15549 Vintage Wiper Kit
15635 Center Dash Support


Breeze Automotive:

In-tank fuel pump assembly
Fuel line assembly quick connect
Fuel filter regulator and line kit
Fan shroud
Upper hinged radiator mounting kit
Lower radiator support kit
Cubby kit
Seat brackets


FFMetal:
Firewall forward panel and tunnel top.

GasN polished stainless side pipes; Seat heaters by Cobraheat; Leather tunnel top; Door panels from Herb; Dropped Trunk conversion by Russ Thompson.

[GTBradley]

...and I'll keep in contact. I was hoping to connect with someone in the same situation. I know it's to much to hope they lived in the same city, but that's what makes these cars so special - they are relatively rare.

Did Stewart ever contact you? I've called twice and left my email, but nothing from them yet.

[GTBradley]

We have a winner. You nailed it about the fuel system parts. I just discovered it myself today, really feel stupid too. I want to keep what I got from Breeze as it will allow a single fuel line, but I don't know that I can get FFR to take the items out of the eng kit, even though it won't be delivered for a month. I sent an email to Mark at Breeze to get his thoughts. We'll see.

I have decided to forgo the sway bars and get the PS kit from FFR instead. I have a lot of experience with sports cars from the 60s and 70s and nostalgia had me thinking manual steering was the way to go. Thanks for the input.

Yes, it is just an engine stand. It's still in the box, so I'll hold off assembling until I find out about the potentially included one. Thanks again.

[BadAsp427]

I know it's to much to hope they lived in the same city, but that's what makes these cars so special - they are relatively rare.



So where are you located?

[VAHokie]

...and I'll keep in contact. I was hoping to connect with someone in the same situation. I know it's to much to hope they lived in the same city, but that's what makes these cars so special - they are relatively rare.

Did Stewart ever contact you? I've called twice and left my email, but nothing from them yet.

They never contacted me but I was alwyays able to get a hold of someone when I called ~5:30 pm ET.

PM me your location if close to VA.

[GTBradley]

Denver, but I'll be getting out that way when the build is done, I love the coast.

[GTBradley]

Yeah, no, Denver.

Good to know about Stewart, I'll contact them again this week. Maybe mine will be on the same truck as yours.

[BadAsp427]

Denver, but I'll be getting out that way when the build is done, I love the coast.

You may want to hook up with " Papa " here on the forum.... He is out that way...

[Straversi]

Congratulations and welcome. Look forward to following along. That “carte blanche kitchen design authority” could be the most expensive part of your build. Good luck!
-Steve

[GTBradley]

Congratulations and welcome. Look forward to following along. That “carte blanche kitchen design authority” could be the most expensive part of your build. Good luck!
-Steve
Thanks.
She’s pretty frugal, however; I’m really finding it less expensive on my mental well being to stay out of those design “discussions” and spend my time in the garage.

[GTBradley]

Okay, here’s another quiz for you guys:
What is this part?
99076

[BadAsp427]

That is an alignment tool for drilling your windshield wiper holes.

[edwardb]

It's just the engine stand. I requested FF not assemble the engine parts so my son and I can do it together. I'm still a little bummed that we aren't building our own engine. I'll rent an engine hoist when the time comes. I figure the space savings is worth it.

I am looking for input on things like the hyd clutch versus cable. My preference is hydraulic, but my preference was for anti-sway bars and manual steering and I'm going to do an about face on both of those by Monday. What's your take on hydraulic clutch?

You really won't use the engine stand much if at all. Agree it's easier to do the oil pan swap with the engine on a stand and flipped over. But it's not easy to get the stand attached to the block with the flywheel in place. I did it once with my first Coyote. Took some messing around with spacers, longer bolts, etc. Still wasn't too happy with it. Mounting the front accessories (power steering, alternator) are quick and easy and don't require a stand. The rest of the major work to be done, e.g. clutch, bell housing, trans, etc. can't be done with the engine on the stand. I too thought I didn't need the engine hoist, but turns out I use it quite a bit, even for other non-automotive stuff. It folds up and takes about a 24x24 inch footprint in my garage.

I like a hydraulic clutch setup. Your choice and a nice feature. But honestly, not particularly cheap and the current cable design by Factory Five is robust and works fine. You'll want to pay careful attention to the cable routing. Smooth and away from the headers. I'd also recommend a genuine Ford branded cable. It's a higher quality piece than the generic one that comes with the kit.


...I want to keep what I got from Breeze as it will allow a single fuel line, but I don't know that I can get FFR to take the items out of the eng kit, even though it won't be delivered for a month. I sent an email to Mark at Breeze to get his thoughts. We'll see.

I have decided to forgo the sway bars and get the PS kit from FFR instead. I have a lot of experience with sports cars from the 60s and 70s and nostalgia had me thinking manual steering was the way to go. Making my wife dislike driving it had crossed my mind too. Thanks for the input.

Sort of about the single fuel line. The Coyote setup, like most aftermarket EFI systems, requires a return line. So the fuel pump has a supply and return line. No choice there. Some installations, which it sounds like you're describing, put the regulator back by the fuel tank. That way only the supply line has to go all the way to the engine. Agree it's simpler, but there are still two lines. One is just a lot shorter. Also sounds like the non-adjustable GM style regulator/filter. Lots of guys use them successfully, even though FWIW both Factory Five and Ford Performance say not to. (You'll have lots of decisions like this, where you have to decide what works best for you. :o)

Sway bars can be pretty easily added in the future if you think you need/want them. For a street driven build though you probably won't miss them. Changing from manual to power steering after the build is done is possible of course, but way easier to do it during the build. Trust me. You'll both like it. One hint though. If you think there's a chance you may want sway bars in the future, buy the two rear brackets and install them during the build. They are fabricated metal parts that bolt in at the inner pivots of the lower control arms and toe arms. Adding them now would make a sway bar in the future a simple bolt-on versus taking your rear suspension apart. Front is a bolt on with no added parts. The mounts are standard on the chassis.

[Fixit]

Agree w/ Edwardb on the engine stand... you won't need it for the jobs ahead of you.

The Coyote comes bolted to a pretty stout wood cradle assembly from Ford. The crate/box framing is just tacked to it with a zillion nails.
99084

Some careful work with a prybar will get rid of the 2x4's, and you'll have a really nice cradle in minutes. Lift the engine up and set it on a furniture dolly and you're good to go.
99085

I installed the oil pan with the engine hanging from the hoist. Just follow the safety rules and DON'T GET UNDER THE LOAD. It's not a bad job. When it's hanging there you'll need to take some measurements and do some carpentry on the Ford wood cradle. Lower the engine back down, and start on clutch/transmission.
99086

[GTBradley]

That is an alignment tool for drilling your windshield wiper holes.
Ah, that makes sense now. It came in my Black Friday sale items box with a number of other items, so it wasn’t obvious what it went with. Thanks.

[GTBradley]

Okay, got it:
- Return engine stand and buy folding 2000 lbs hoist
- Keep the cable clutch actuator - seems like something I can change out later anyway
- Install the rear sway bar brackets - do I just tell FFR I need sway bar brackets?

Another question about the FFR eng kit, it comes with an oil pan, but I see people ordering a special Moroso pan. Will the one in the kit work?

[GTBradley]

Thanks John, did you get the engine from Ford directly? I’m looking for some input on the FFR eng/trans kit I’ve ordered.

[GTBradley]

...IMO you should return it and get the 2000Lb one. It's reach is further and you will need reach... Just something to think about.
Is the one you’re referring to at Harbor Freight?

[GTBradley]

2 ton Capacity Foldable Shop Crane Pittsburgh® Automotive- Item#69514
HF has it on sale today for 180, which is the same price as the 1 ton.

[BadAsp427]

Is the one you’re referring to at Harbor Freight?

Yup!

[Fixit]

I ordered my entire powertrain "package" from Forte's Performance. The engine, ECU, engine specific wiring harness, and some other bits are shipped directly from Ford, via their authorized distributor(s) (Forte's and others) direct to your door.

**Remember to request/tell them "residential delivery with a lift-gate truck!!**

Forte's "package" includes everything needed to install a Coyote in a FFR MkIV, and I went with the hydraulic clutch setup he offers. My parts list from them looks very similar to yours.

While you're a Harbor Freight, pick up a furniture dolly (or two). The engine is only about 500lbs., and it'll roll easily on a good floor. I also stacked some of my heavier boxes on others so I could easily roll them around out of the way.

[GTBradley]

My engine/transmission kit from FFR will come on the same truck as the kit, so they tell me. I really like Forte’s, but I got a deal from FFR and went for it. I did get the better dolly, I’m headed over to HF to return the eng stand and get the eng hoist now. There’s a super deal running on the 2 ton. I hope it’s not too big, if so I’ll stick with the 1ton.

[edwardb]

There’s a super deal running on the 2 ton. I hope it’s not too big, if so I’ll stick with the 1ton.

Don't do it! You'll struggle to get enough reach with the 1 ton. Multiple examples, me included, of the 2 ton being the right choice. When folded, I don't think there's a big difference in space required.


Okay, got it:

- Install the rear sway bar brackets - do I just tell FFR I need sway bar brackets?

Another question about the FFR eng kit, it comes with an oil pan, but I see people ordering a special Moroso pan. Will the one in the kit work?

The sway bar brackets for the IRS are part numbers 16000 and 16001. You can see them in these instructions. https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/SWAYBAR-2015-IRS.pdf. Also visible in this picture. Not mandatory to do them now. Just easier and will make the sway bars an easy bolt on should you add them in the future.

https://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/th_IMG_0150_zpslldjumio.jpg (https://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_0150_zpslldjumio.jpg.html)

Only two low profile pan options for the Coyote -- Moroso and Canton -- that I know of. I've used the Moroso one twice, and seems pretty common. I'd bet Factory Five is supplying one of those. Note you also have to change the pickup tube which should also be included.

[Papa]

GTBradley -

I got your PM and see you already have a body buck, but you are welcome to use my 2000lb engine hoist if you need one. Give me a shout and let me know if you ever need a hand or two.

Dave

[GTBradley]

Oh, okay. I thought everyone was suggesting the 2000 lb crane. I’m guessing 2 ton is what was meant? Anyway,4000 lbs capacity which is the 2 ton is the one I’ll get.

Thanks for the part numbers and picture, very helpful.

[GTBradley]

Thanks, Dave. I appreciate it.

[Papa]

Oh, okay. I thought everyone was suggesting the 2000 lb crane. I’m guessing 2 ton is what was meant? Anyway,4000 lbs capacity which is the 2 ton is the one I’ll get.

Thanks for the part numbers and picture, very helpful.

My mistake. Mine is the 2 Ton hoist. I also have the leveler with an upgraded handle. The HF handle is junk.

Dave

[GTBradley]

Cool, thanks Dave. I appreciate the offer to borrow yours. I went by HF to look, you know how that goes, and ended up buying the 2 ton with leveler. At 180 clams plus 40 for the leveler, I figure it’s worth it to have it ready all the time and not bother you. At that price I can easy Craigslist it after the build too. I’ll put it together and check that handle.

[Papa]

Here is the handle I replaced the plastic one with. The original handle shredded on the first use.

J.W. Winco 25WG57/E DIN98-ST... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PUDIF4K?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

[GTBradley]

Here is the handle I replaced the plastic one with. The original handle shredded on the first use.

J.W. Winco 25WG57/E DIN98-ST... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PUDIF4K?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

In the shopping cart.

[GTBradley]

Wow! What a good suggestion. That hoist is fantastic and it's not taking up any room that I needed. You guys are and handier than pockets!
99100

[PeteMeindl]

Welcome GT! This group is fantastic and is constantly helping me out on our build - you're in for a great time!

[BadAsp427]

You have the same leveler that I have... So far my handle worked well... One very important key, put some grease on the screw, the full length and run it back and forth a couple times before you put the 800+ lbs onto it. If you don't, you will have a bear of a time actually using it. I know you are a ways off from actually using it, but put this thought in the back of your mind... I've found that starting the install off with the engine/trans at near level when the leveler is towards the very back will allow you to have more angle adjustability as you go in the hole. If you start out with it centered, you may not get enough of the angle you want going into the hole. Just something to think about.

Started here....
99130

Ended up here at full drop in angle...
99131

[GTBradley]

Welcome GT! This group is fantastic and is constantly helping me out on our build - you're in for a great time!

Thanks Pete, hey aren't you the guy with the God-like status and a car body in your living room? :p I don't think anyone felt worthy after seeing that picture. I too have a family involved in the build, in particular my fifteen-year-old son.
Question for you, how do you put up such big pretty pictures? I've seen people use photobucket, but personally I find that service annoying.

Bradley

[GTBradley]

Thanks, I did order that metal handle Papa suggested, but I will definitely be greasing that screw shaft and using your technique. The last time I put an engine in I didn't even use a leveler and it was a royal pain-in-the-butt. And that was a small engine.

[Papa]

Here is a link to the instructions for posting pictures via the FF Forum's own picture hosting service.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18962-How-to-use-the-Image-Gallery-to-embed-pictures-in-posts

It's free and won't decide to kill all your old postings unless you agree to pay them $$$. I resisted initially and used both Photobucket, then Flicker before adapting to the forum's built-in tools. It's a bit more cumbersome than other services at first, but once you get used to it, it's fine.

[Fixit]

My engine/transmission kit from FFR will come on the same truck as the kit, so they tell me.

I hope Stewart Transport has come up with a way to get that 500lb pallet down & off the truck with the gantry crane... 'cause the trailer that dropped off my kit didn't have a lift gate.
99161

(My Coyote was shipped truck freight w/ lift gate, and the driver just rolled the crate on a pallet jack right to the garage.)

You'd better check on this.

[PeteMeindl]

Thanks Pete, hey aren't you the guy with the God-like status and a car body in your living room? :p I don't think anyone felt worthy after seeing that picture. I too have a family involved in the build, in particular my fifteen-year-old son.
Question for you, how do you put up such big pretty pictures? I've seen people use photobucket, but personally I find that service annoying.

Bradley

Ha! :) We do have the car body in our living room but i certainly don't deserve any god-like status... I'm just a novice at this and learning way more from everyone else here than i could ever contribute! Thanks, though!

Yeah, i learned to post pictures using the link that Papa sent out of David Hodgkins post. Like Papa said, it takes a little bit to learn how but once you get the hang of it, it works just fine and it's nice to have the bigger pictures embedded in the thread. If you have any questions as you go through those instructions, feel free to ping me.

[GTBradley]

Edwardb, what size fuel return are you using? I'm learning something about aeration issues using the 255 lph in-tank pump and it's stock ¼” OD return port.

[GTBradley]

I'll check on that lift gate or other mode of offload. Thanks for the heads up.

[edwardb]

Edwardb, what size fuel return are you using? I'm learning something about aeration issues using the 255 lph in-tank pump and it's stock ¼” OD return port.

I've used full 3/8-inch supply and return lines for both my Coyote builds, along with the fuel pump hanger from Pro-M. http://www.promracing.com/high-flow-fuel-pump-hanger-for-1986-1997-mustangs.html. Not an inexpensive approach, and doesn't use many of the parts from Factory Five or any of the usual vendors. Certainly some debate about whether this is necessary and others report their setups with different parts work fine. But didn't want to have any issues and haven't. My #8674 build thread (link in sig line below) is a very similar configuration as you're planning. The build thread describes this fuel system as well as a bunch of other approaches I took with the build. FWIW.

[GTBradley]

I’ve read your thread on that and reread the part on the in-tank fuel pump again this morning. In fact, you convinced me of the value of having an in-tank fuel pump in the first place.

I’m going to hold off returning any of the fuel system for a while. I need to get more comfortable with what I want. I watched this video and was thrown a bit by the Ford supplied fuel pump and the video’s claimed aeration issues and small return port. Have you seen this?: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ium8jf4Jm04&t=19s

[edwardb]

I watched this video and was thrown a bit by the Ford supplied fuel pump and the video’s claimed aeration issues and small return port. Have you seen this?: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ium8jf4Jm04&t=19s

Sure. That's from Pro-M. Also linked from the product page I posted previously. Don't question that's a good thing to fix. My main motivators for their fuel pump hanger though was (1) Full 3/8-inch supply and return, (2) -6AN fittings standard.

[GTBradley]

So, Stewart transport said they can handle the eng/trans 500 pound pallet with their truck no problem. Problem is, there was mix up in the quote and Stewart upped what I was expecting to pay by $600. That coupled with the extra fuel system parts pushed me to cancel the eng/tran kit order from FFR.

[Fixit]

Mike will do you right... He's a great guy.
Again, when you talk to Mike & order, remind him that it's "residential, lift gate delivery".

[GTBradley]

I have talked to him already a couple of times. Great guy. I’ll let him know, thanks.

[GTBradley]

I just got an update from Stewart. My delivery has been moved up a couple of weeks. I heard a couple of days ago that it was a possibility, but I wasn’t convinced. Turns out, the Mk4 got on the truck late today.:eek:

[Ducky2009]

.... - Keep the cable clutch actuator - seems like something I can change out later anyway....

Welcome. As you read "Everyone" posts, you'll find that we ALL have different ideas. Take the best that meets your vision, and enjoy the build. Ask lots of questions. There is a lot of experience and helpful hands/ideas within your reach.

You need to research the cable vs hydraulic set-up. Not sure if your engine control set-up requires one or two clutch switches (used to be two but I believe only one is now required). If you're going hydraulic, need to set it up prior to the DS footbox sheetmetal is installed, definitely prior to body install. Would be easier to install on trans prior to install too.

[GTBradley]

Thanks. I am definitely going to look closely at it. Sounds like things are pretty tight, especially with the coyote in there. I did try a FFR cable clutch for feel the other day and though it was a little effort to actuate, it was easy to hold. Not like the old days.

[GTBradley]

99398

[GTBradley]

9959099589995929959199593

[Papa]

Congratulations!

[PeteMeindl]

Great news!

[GTBradley]

Unfortunately, I have not seen the car in person yet. I don’t know if this has been done before, but I couldn’t be there for the delivery, so I received it via security cam and a neighbor. Scott with Stewart was a real pro and a genuinely nice guy. I’m still not home, but I visit her by baby cam nightly. 99639

[Paul2STL]

Congratulations! The anticipation is probably killing you right now. Good luck and enjoy the journey.

[GTBradley]

Congratulations! The anticipation is probably killing you right now. Good luck and enjoy the journey.
It’s tuff. As a teenager working at Montgomery Wards Department store I hated inventory more than anything else. Now I can’t wait to do it.

[SSNK4US]

OMG!!! Congratulations!!!! When do you get to see it “live”?
I’d be going crazy. I haven’t done anything yet, but at least I get to see ours everyday :)

Kurt

[Fixit]

Why do I have this funny feeling that the pickup is going to move to the single bay, and the MkIV will somehow "slide over" to the double bay?? 99679

[GTBradley]

OMG!!! Congratulations!!!! When do you get to see it “live”?
I’d be going crazy. I haven’t done anything yet, but at least I get to see ours everyday :)

Kurt
Very soon. I have to act as though I prefer being at the Xmas celebration at the mother-in-law’s first.

[GTBradley]

Why do I have this funny feeling that the pickup is going to move to the single bay, and the MkIV will somehow "slide over" to the double bay?? 99679
The single bay is looking tighter than I anticipated. I promised the wife though, that I wouldn’t ever spread into all three.

[GTBradley]

Okay my first question to you guys during inventory. Can anyone confirm this part is:
16588 - trunk hinge arm w/gas strut mount?
100048

[edwardb]

Okay my first question to you guys during inventory. Can anyone confirm this part is:
16588 - trunk hinge arm w/gas strut mount?
100048

Yes. Those are the trunk hinge arms. Pretty new update adding the gas strut mount. Nice improvement.

[GTBradley]

Yes. Those are the trunk hinge arms. Pretty new update adding the gas strut mount. Nice improvement.
Thanks Paul, I left them out and forgot what box they were from.

[GTBradley]

I got a late start what with Holiday travels - a cold - and the cold. It’s been in single digits temperature wise lately and with the cold (virus) I brought back from Kansas I’ve been a little less than sharp. My garage heater can only do so much on a zero degree day, but I’ve been at it and almost done with inventory. It’s probably the best task for me right now because it’s hard to mess it up and I can’t hurt myself...much.

The good news is, my POL list is fairly short and there are few inaccuracies on the packing lists. The only major items on b/o are headers and some power steering parts, none of which will hold things up early on.

I sent my check for engine and transmission last Friday, so that monster crate will be be here and inspiring me soon.

Things are pretty organized and out of the way. Prior storage prep seems to be paying off. I plan to get the body off and stored on its ceiling suspension system soon. (Note to self: stop saying “I store the body up there” people look at you funny when you say it that way.)

Hoping to get some suspension parts installed this weekend.

[Fixit]

I sent my check for engine and transmission last Friday, so that monster crate will be be here and inspiring me soon.

And what will be inside that crate???

[GTBradley]

And what will be inside that crate???
I had a tough time with that decision - build an engine, do a blue print engine, go with current technology and dependability...
I finally settled on the Coyote. Let's face it, it was Ford's new technology that made those early cars winners and with my wife in mind I decided to make this a daily driver. So, I bought the Coyote/TKO600 package from Mike Forte. He has a pretty sweet deal right now and I trust his extensive experience, certainly more than mine.

I'm still struggling with the Coyote install package from FFR. I hear I need it, but have never understood what's in it.

[edwardb]

I'm still struggling with the Coyote install package from FFR. I hear I need it, but have never understood what's in it.

Motor mount spacers (required), brackets to mount the PCM and PDB (which you could make if you wanted to, but why...), brackets for the clutch switch(s) (depends on the version Coyote you have, probably only one), bracket for the accelerator pedal, and a whole bunch of fittings, hoses, terminals, hardware, etc. that align with their installation instructions. I'd suggest buying it. I did my #8674 build before this package was available, so it's certainly possible. But I did go back and buy their motor mount spacers right after they were released. Note I'm saying that without knowing what Mike includes in his Coyote package. But I'm guessing there isn't much in common.

[Cruzzz]

I am planning the same Coyote/TKO install and through discussions with Forte and FF it appears the FF installation kit is worth while. I have been going through the same trials about which engine to go with and like you landed on the Coyote for newer technology, dependability, and it actually is significantly cheaper than a SBF with bolt on EFI.

Still trying to decide on my source for power steering. Seems the easiest option is to get the FFR kit.

Looking forward to following the rest of your build.

[GTBradley]

Motor mount spacers (required), brackets to mount the PCM and PDB (which you could make if you wanted to, but why...), brackets for the clutch switch(s) (depends on the version Coyote you have, probably only one), bracket for the accelerator pedal, and a whole bunch of fittings, hoses, terminals, hardware, etc. that align with their installation instructions. I'd suggest buying it. I did my #8674 build before this package was available, so it's certainly possible. But I did go back and buy their motor mount spacers right after they were released. Note I'm saying that without knowing what Mike includes in his Coyote package. But I'm guessing there isn't much in common.
Helpful as always Paul, that’s valuable information. I’ve been hesitating to spend an additional $475.00 if it wasn’t something really needed. Sounds like people think it’s worth it.

I guess I’ll call FFR to order it, especially since I can’t find it on their parts webpage.

[GTBradley]

I am planning the same Coyote/TKO install and through discussions with Forte and FF it appears the FF installation kit is worth while. I have been going through the same trials about which engine to go with and like you landed on the Coyote for newer technology, dependability, and it actually is significantly cheaper than a SBF with bolt on EFI.

Still trying to decide on my source for power steering. Seems the easiest option is to get the FFR kit.

Looking forward to following the rest of your build.
Agreed. And thanks for the input.

I looked at different options for the ps, but finally decided FF was the easiest and not much different on price. It was one of my last minute panic decisions before shipping. I had settled on anti-sway bars front and back, but discovered that most people say the car doesn’t have body roll problems to begin with and the bars are more suited to the track. I also was going to forgo the power steering because I just didn’t think the weight of this car justified it. Again, reading that most people believe it is more about driving geometry and feel rather than convenience made me change my mind.

Mike is a really friendly and knowledgeable guy and that helped me decide to go with him plus the discounts, free shipping, etc. There are lots of places to get the eng/trans setup though.

Are you you going to do a build thread? I highly recommend it. Somebody has got to keep these guys entertained. Might as well be us.

[GTBradley]

From what I'm reading, the F panels don't actually have to be installed first, right? I'd like to drill the holes and then start on the front suspension, but come back later to actually mount the F panels. Reason being, I'm still figuring how to do my powder coating.

[Fixit]

That's correct. You can jig them up, drill holes, and set them aside for awhile... but getting the rivets in to the center area with the suspension arms in place probably won't happen.

[GTBradley]

That's correct. You can jig them up, drill holes, and set them aside for awhile... but getting the rivets in to the center area with the suspension arms in place probably won't happen.
Great thanks.

[GTBradley]

Has anybody ever estimated the sq ft of all the panels? I got a price today from one vendor for $2.50 per sq foot times two sides to powder coat.

[Papa]

Bradley,

I used four rolls of Thermo-Tec (15 square feet per roll) and didn't do the trunk, which is probably another 15-20 square feet. My estimate would be ~75-80 square feet, so 150-160 square feet for your estimate, which right at $400. Not a bad deal at all for our area.

Dave

[GTBradley]

100309

Bradley,

I used four rolls of Thermo-Tec (15 square feet per roll) and didn't do the trunk, which is probably another 15-20 square feet. My estimate would be ~75-80 square feet, so 150-160 square feet for your estimate, which right at $400. Not a bad deal at all for our area.

Dave
That, I think, may be a pretty good estimate. I laid the panels out on the floor and did a straight width times length and came up with 112 sq ft. If you figure 25% area for gaps that's 84 sq ft. times 2 = 168 sq ft for both sides.

I weighed the panels to see how consistent I could get. 53 lbs was what I came up with on a bathroom scale. 6061-T6, 0.4" thick aluminum panels according to TW Metals weighs 0.56 lbs per square foot. 53 / 0.56 = 94.6. Check my math on this, but that would indicate about 190 square feet for both sides. So, $400 to $475 is pretty good. This doesn't include brackets or hardware I might add like the hood hinges.

This all makes me realize that Factory Five probably knows the exact number. It would be really handy to find that out for getting accurate quotes.

[GTBradley]

100342
I built a lightweight/small dolly for the stages before the kit gets heavy and it works pretty well.

[GTBradley]

I installed the control arms with some difficulty. I'm pretty sure they are correct now, but the upper control arm was assembled at the FF incorrectly. I put the ball joints in the way the manual instructed, but after it was on the chassis I noticed that the grease zerks were pointing down. I labeled a photo of the assembly for others to see how it should go, provided it's right, please let me know for sure.
100343

[GTBradley]

I did add the spacer washer on the driver side, back side of the lower control arm as the manual instructs and one was enough, but on the passenger side I was able to add a spacer to both back and front sides. 100344
Seems like the right thing to do, though there is a small gap even when torqued down.100345

[Papa]

I installed the control arms with some difficulty. I'm pretty sure they are correct now, but the upper control arm was assembled at the FF incorrectly. I put the ball joints in the way the manual instructed, but after it was on the chassis I noticed that the grease zerks were pointing down. I labeled a photo of the assembly for others to see how it should go, provided it's right, please let me know for sure.
100343

You've got it right. The upside down assembly comes from the supplier. Did you use thread locker on the ball joints? If not, you'll want to do so to keep them from backing out. Also, some paint marks will help you monitor if they are moving or not.

Dave

[GTBradley]

My POL was fairly short and had just small items on it, but unfortunately the spring hat and another shock component are on it. My question to the group would be can I go on to do the spindles and come back to the shocks and springs later? It looks like this shouldn't be a problem, but if it is I can wait.

[Jeff Kleiner]

My POL was fairly short and had just small items on it, but unfortunately the spring hat and another shock component are on it. My question to the group would be can I go on to do the spindles and come back to the shocks and springs later? It looks like this shouldn't be a problem, but if it is I can wait.

Go right ahead.

Jeff

[GTBradley]

Thanks Dave I did use the thread locker blue on the ball joints, though the PS ball joint was so tight I can't imagine it ever coming off. I'll put the paint marks on it, good tip.

[GTBradley]

Cool, I'll go do that right now. You guys are super helpful. Thanks.

I'd like to post the picture of the body hoisted up to the ceiling, but the darn picture keeps turning upside down when I upload it.

[GTBradley]

Go right ahead.

Jeff
Jeff, I read your post about the bare aluminum panels today. You really have me rethinking the powder coating. I like saving the money and the panels look so good.

[VAHokie]

I installed the control arms with some difficulty. I'm pretty sure they are correct now, but the upper control arm was assembled at the FF incorrectly. I put the ball joints in the way the manual instructed, but after it was on the chassis I noticed that the grease zerks were pointing down. I labeled a photo of the assembly for others to see how it should go, provided it's right, please let me know for sure.
100343

Thanks for the pic and explanation - will be helpful when I start the front suspension. Keep up the good work!

[GTBradley]

Sure thing. I’m learning that all sources available are required to avoid problems: FF YouTube videos, the manual and the forum at a minimum. It was telling to see the the guy in the FFR video use an impact wrench on the wheel nuts and the wheel hub box warns against doing just that.

[GTBradley]

I know it’s been a long time since I’ve worked on wheel bearings, but is there really no extra grease to put inside before the dust cap goes on?

[Jeff Kleiner]

I know it’s been a long time since I’ve worked on wheel bearings, but is there really no extra grease to put inside before the dust cap goes on?

No, they are sealed bearings.

Jeff

[GTBradley]

I’ve gotten a few things done, although I’m skipping the power steering and shocks for now as both have parts I’m waiting on. In the mean time, I’ve installed the upper and lower control arms on the rear, the center section, axels and the spindles.

I’m on the rear brakes now and Wilwood instructions say to start with at least one .029” shim, but it appears the caliper is more centered with no shims between the bracket and upright. Does that seem okay? Wilwood only sent me 2 .625 o.d. Washers for the lock nuts that hold the calipers on the brackets. I assume I can get 2 more replacements at the hardware store?

[edwardb]

I’m on the rear brakes now and Wilwood instructions say to start with at least one .029” shim, but it appears the caliper is more centered with no shims between the bracket and upright. Does that seem okay? Wilwood only sent me 2 .625 o.d. Washers for the lock nuts that hold the calipers on the brackets. I assume I can get 2 more replacements at the hardware store?

Do what's necessary to get them centered properly. I've installed those brakes a few times, but don't remember the exact shims required. The instructions are only giving you a starting point. But they give you plenty of extras in difference thicknesses. So add or remove as necessary to get everything aligned properly. I'm surprised about missing hardware. Wilwood is usually really good and thorough about that. I don't recall the exact one you're talking about. But their hardware is all very specific and also hardened. You may be able to find something suitable. Or call Wilwood and I'll bet they'd send what you're missing.

[GTBradley]

Do what's necessary to get them centered properly. I've installed those brakes a few times, but don't remember the exact shims required. The instructions are only giving you a starting point. But they give you plenty of extras in difference thicknesses. So add or remove as necessary to get everything aligned properly. I'm surprised about missing hardware. Wilwood is usually really good and thorough about that. I don't recall the exact one you're talking about. But their hardware is all very specific and also hardened. You may be able to find something suitable. Or call Wilwood and I'll bet they'd send what you're missing.
Yeah, It just surprised me that I didn't need any shims. I don't know what happened to this batch, but not only did they short me two washers, they gave me 24 extra washers for the bolts that go on the bolts holding the hat to the disc. I''l give them a call on the missing ones and see if they are special enough to wait on replacements from Wildwood. Thanks for the input.

[GTBradley]

Cleaned off the writing with acetone and then clear coated the center section.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100772&d=1547527050


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100774&d=1547527100

[GTBradley]

My son pulled up from the cockpit and I puled up from the trunk. We controlled and supported the center section with ratcheting load straps.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100773&d=1547527076


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100771&d=1547527030

[Papa]

Looking good!

[GTBradley]

Axles installed without any drama, heard the click. Rear brakes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100857&d=1547786644

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100855&d=1547786609


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100856&d=1547786629

In this picture you can see that the the center rod has no nut on it (left side). I don't believe it needs one as it has threads in the caliper but the Wilwood instructions say there is a nut there. Maybe a a left-over instruction from previous versions?

[GTBradley]

The engine arrived today
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100854&d=1547786140

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100858&d=1547787556

[GTBradley]

Looking good!
Thanks, finally getting some time to get this pictures upload thing figured out.

[Jwheels]

Go chiefs!!!!!

[edwardb]

In this picture you can see that the the center rod has no nut on it (left side). I don't believe it needs one as it has threads in the caliper but the Wilwood instructions say there is a nut there. Maybe a a left-over instruction from previous versions?

Don't remember seeing that in the instructions. Must have missed it. But I've used those brakes twice and no nut in that location. Not sure how one would fit anyway unless the bolt were longer.

https://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/th_IMG_3732_zpsd0gp60rx.jpg (https://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3732_zpsd0gp60rx.jpg.html)

Congrats on receiving you Coyote. The fun really starts now.

[GTBradley]

Don't remember seeing that in the instructions. Must have missed it. But I've used those brakes twice and no nut in that location. Not sure how one would fit anyway unless the bolt were longer.

https://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/th_IMG_3732_zpsd0gp60rx.jpg (https://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3732_zpsd0gp60rx.jpg.html)

Congrats on receiving you Coyote. The fun really starts now.
Thanks. Makes a guy nervous having all this expensive equipment sitting around. Can’t do the e-brake because cable is b/o. I guess I can do break lines this weekend.

[BadAsp427]

The engine arrived today
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100854&d=1547786140



You need to return that motor... It appears to be upside down, the oil fill cap should be able to be read correctly. As it is now, you can see the oil will leak out of the oil can... Just sayin'

[GTBradley]

You need to return that motor... It appears to be upside down, the oil fill cap should be able to be read correctly. As it is now, you can see the oil will leak out of the oil can... Just sayin'

Yeah, but when I turn it right side up the competition is gonna get turned on its ear. :cool:

[GTBradley]

So I haven’t looked into it yet, but why is the engine shipped with one header?

[edwardb]

So I haven’t looked into it yet, but why is the engine shipped with one header?

The other side has a built-in catalytic converter, so they don't include it. I'm assuming because of the value, but I've never heard officially. Doesn't matter, because hopefully you're installing straight tube headers so the stock headers aren't needed.

[Papa]

You need to return that motor... It appears to be upside down, the oil fill cap should be able to be read correctly. As it is now, you can see the oil will leak out of the oil can... Just sayin'

Paul,

The engine's fine, that's the 710 cap …

Dave

[GTBradley]

The other side has a built-in catalytic converter, so they don't include it. I'm assuming because of the value, but I've never heard officially. Doesn't matter, because hopefully you're installing straight tube headers so the stock headers aren't needed.
Thanks, just curious as yes I have the full length 4 to 1 to 4 headers on backorder.

[GTBradley]

I have the control arms, brakes, center section and axels installed. Snce the backordered parts: spring hats for the shocks; mounting hardware for the power steering and e-brake cable prevent me from finishing those things I’m thinking brake lines would be okay to start. Any suggestions would be welcome.

[Papa]

I have the control arms, brakes, center section and axels installed. Snce the backordered parts: spring hats for the shocks; mounting hardware for the power steering and e-brake cable prevent me from finishing those things I’m thinking brake lines would be okay to start. Any suggestions would be welcome.

Bradley,

I used Paul's pictures and description of the brake line install in his 20th Anniversary build thread to model mine. His brake line install starts on post #214:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=229659&viewfull=1#post229659

Dave

[Fixit]

Here's a link to how I did mine (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27544-The-40-Watt-Garage-9365-ATTN-Power-Steering-Users!&p=334152&viewfull=1#post334152)... fuel for the synapses.

**Note**
None of the supplied brake lines were used "out of the box". They were all cut to fit, and new double-flares done when necessary.

[GTBradley]

Here's a link to how I did mine (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27544-The-40-Watt-Garage-9365-ATTN-Power-Steering-Users!&p=334152&viewfull=1#post334152)... fuel for the synapses.

**Note**
None of the supplied brake lines were used "out of the box". They were all cut to fit, and new double-flares done when necessary.
nice work on that, now I know what to do. You’re telling me I need a brake line flaring tool too, I think.

[cv2065]

nice work on that, now I know what to do. You’re telling me I need a brake line flaring tool too, I think.

I used pre-flared lines from Advanced Auto. Worked out great. Just another option for you.

[Fixit]

nice work on that, now I know what to do. You’re telling me I need a brake line flaring tool too, I think.

Thanks for the compliment...
You don't necessarily need a flaring kit - As CV stated you can get lucky piecing it together with pre-made lines - but you may not be able to tuck/tighten the lines up as well due to some extra length.
I'm using my Dads 50+ year old kit. I have it, so why not. Doing proper double flares isn't difficult once you've practiced a few times on scrap material.

[GTBradley]

I used pre-flared lines from Advanced Auto. Worked out great. Just another option for you.
Thanks. I looked into that and ended up buying a bending tool. This is going to get interesting.

[GTBradley]

Thanks for the compliment...
You don't necessarily need a flaring kit - As CV stated you can get lucky piecing it together with pre-made lines - but you may not be able to tuck/tighten the lines up as well due to some extra length.
I'm using my Dads 50+ year old kit. I have it, so why not. Doing proper double flares isn't difficult once you've practiced a few times on scrap material.
I bought a bending tool and expected to use my dad’s 50 year-old flaring tool I’ve been hanging on to since 1987 - broken. Oh well, a new one was not expensive. I spent yesterday making good progress on learning the art of bending/double flaring. I never once forgot to put the fitting on:cool:, twice I forgot to slide the fitting past the bends first:mad:.

Im tempted to mount that brake line on the top of the cross bar, opposite yours. I know it wouldn’t be accessible, but how often does one replace a break line? And if I needed to, I have the option of cutting off the excess and leaving the unseen parts up there.

[Papa]

Bradley,

If you want, get everything bent up and bring your lines over and we can use my Eastwood flair tool to finish them up.

Dave

[GTBradley]

That's right you have one of those fancy Eastwood tools. I thought about buying one of those and then spent gobs of money on other unexpected things and let that thought fade. I'm going to give this a shot first, thanks. I hadn't even considered flaring after the bends though, thanks for that too.

[GTBradley]

Bradley,

If you want, get everything bent up and bring your lines over and we can use my Eastwood flair tool to finish them up.

Dave
Thanks Dave, but I think I've got it, it might even be fun and maybe even faster soon. Glad I took Monday off...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134765&d=1599427481
Does that look Right?

[GTBradley]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100977&d=1548008280

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100978&d=1548008280

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100979&d=1548008280

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100980&d=1548008280

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100981&d=1548008280

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100982&d=1548008280

[Papa]

Thanks Dave, but I think I've got it, it might even be fun and maybe even faster soon. Glad I took Monday off...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100976&d=1548008280
Does that look Right?

The double flair has the right shape, but I'd be a bit nervous about the condition of the tube leading up to the flair and the roughness of the flair itself. It doesn't take much to create a leak and brake fluid is one of the most effective paint removers I've ever seen. Here is my very first flair with the Eastwood flair tool:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84535&d=1524420303

Dave

[GTBradley]

Yeah, that tool has ridges that grip the pipe and leave those marks. I can see that Eastwood is pretty good. I'll see if I can clean up on the outside of the flair.

[GTBradley]

So who’s done the FFMetal firewall forward kit? I’m wondering how the the under dash panel works with it.

[Fixit]

Yeah, that tool has ridges that grip the pipe and leave those marks.

That's about the only downside... just dress them off with a few light swipes of a small file. They're hidden inside the fittings anyway.

[GTBradley]

My KC Chiefs lost :(, though they put up a very good fight. However, it looks as though my POL delivery is here:D and I took the holiday off.

[GTBradley]

That's about the only downside... just dress them off with a few light swipes of a small file. They're hidden inside the fittings anyway.
It does appear to me that the important part for a good seal is the inside face where it meets the opposite fitting.

[GTBradley]

Well, I'm mounting body of the Koni shocks down also, but just as soon as you think you've seen everything on the subject out pops instructions from just one of the shocks:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101042&d=1548113299

[GTBradley]

I had trouble with pulling the new studs into the hub, so when I figured it out I made a quick and dirty video to show that my solution woks well.

Add two hardened washers and a drop of oil between. Use breaker bar to turn lug nut until stud is flush against hub.


https://youtu.be/ERK-_ehKumk

https://youtu.be/ERK-_ehKumk (https://youtu.be/ERK-_ehKumk)

[GTBradley]

I received the spring hats and a bunch of other POL items Monday, so I was able to get the shocks and springs installed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101085&d=1548130348 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101084&d=1548130327 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101083&d=1548130291
The instructions don't call out the same spacers I had but it was easy enough to figure them out.

[GTBradley]

After giving it a lot of thought and getting quotes that ranged from $550 to $3000 to powder coat all the panels I've decided to go the JKleiner route. My panels will be natural with the visible ones cleaned, scored and treated with clear enamel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101134&d=1548203112


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101135&d=1548203120


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101136&d=1548203127

[Jeff Kleiner]

The front coilovers are to be installed with the body up rather than down as you have them.

Jeff

[GTBradley]

The front coilovers are to be installed with the body up rather than down as you have them.

Jeff
I would tend to agree, but there are so many discussions on the forums saying otherwise. Most notably that the double-adjustable Koni shocks require body down but not the single like mine. All official sources I’ve seen agree with you.

[edwardb]

...the double-adjustable Koni shocks require body up...

Actually, just the opposite. The double-adjustable Koni shocks must be mounted body end down. Per Koni, the valving mechanism only works properly with the body down and no more than 45 degrees from vertical. The standard red Konis work with the body end either up or down.

[q4stix]

... I've decided to go the JKleiner route. My panels will be natural with the visible ones cleaned, scored and treated with clear enamel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101135&d=1548203120


What enamel did you use? I really like that look!

[GTBradley]

Yeah sorry, got that backwards/upside-down. Where does this come from though?

[edwardb]

Yeah sorry, got that backwards/upside-down. Where does this come from though?

For the double adjustable shocks, both Factory Five and Koni instructions cite mounting them body down. The Koni instructions say why, as I mentioned in my post. They don't work body up. Don't remember if the Factory Five instructions state the reason.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/th_IMG_3381_zpskpel3ybs.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3381_zpskpel3ybs.jpg.html)

https://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/th_IMG_3460_zpszqgjoytm.jpg (https://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3460_zpszqgjoytm.jpg.html)

[GTBradley]

Ah, now I know what has me confused, the assembly manual has the shocks mounted body down and the #14675 - KONI Front Coil Over Shocks (Download (http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/content/instructions/14676-koni-front-coil-overs.pdf)) PDF has the shocks mounted up. Then there is the instruction sheet I received in just one of the shock boxes showing this:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101164&d=1548292434

Anyway, sorry for bringing it up again. I was just curious to know if anyone had gotten official word from Koni on the single adjust shocks (part number 30-1720) saying they could be mounted both ways.

[Papa]

Bradley,

This same subject came up early in my build, too. There is a post from Jim at FFR that may settle it in your mind.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?24319-Inverting-Front-konis-on-33&p=278032&viewfull=1#post278032

Dave

[GTBradley]

Bradley,

This same subject came up early in my build, too. There is a post from Jim at FFR that may settle it in your mind.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?24319-Inverting-Front-konis-on-33&p=278032&viewfull=1#post278032

Dave
Thanks, that does help. The fact that they had a Koni engineer involved helps immensely.

[GTBradley]

Those damn steering arms! Just when you think you know what you’re doing...

[GTBradley]

What enamel did you use? I really like that look!
Thanks, I can only take credit for the elbow grease, it’s Jkleiner’s technique. I used Duplicolor Engine Enamel Gloss Clear with Ceramic. It seems like pretty good stuff and protects reasonably well against finger prints and minor wear - does nothing to protect against stupidity when skidding across it with the revit gun:eek:.

[GTBradley]

I gotta say, one of the most convenient items I have for working on the car is my adjustable rolling desk. It has the perfect height for standing and the perfect height for sitting, even at the lowest stool level. And it keeps the the manual right where I need it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101206&d=1548382337

[GTBradley]

I installed the power steering rack and steering shaft. Not a big deal after fixing the steering arms mistake I previously thought I had avoided.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101245&d=1548392213

I don't understand why the steering shaft is so close to the chassis:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101244&d=1548392011

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101243&d=1548391988

It's not touching anymore but by slim margin and only after loosening and raising the lower bearing what little distance it would travel upward.

[Fixit]

Steering shaft clearance seems to be a common problem with the "newer" frames. Mine was the same way.
Solution:
1) Either a flat piece of 1/8" plate (shim) or some washers under the pillow block
2) Purchase Russ Thompson's turn signal setup

Either one will fix the clearance issue.

[GTBradley]

Steering shaft clearance seems to be a common problem with the "newer" frames. Mine was the same way.
Solution:
1) Either a flat piece of 1/8" plate (shim) or some washers under the pillow block
2) Purchase Russ Thompson's turn signal setup

Either one will fix the clearance issue.
Thanks, at least I know it’s not a problem with just mine. If they just raised the point at which the steering shaft came through the foot box front wall a ¼” it would help.
I was thinking of the shim, I was concerned about the geometry of the steering wheel if I did that though. I’m guessing the RT turn signals essentially act as a shim too. It does clear currently, but if that lower bearing drifts down over time...
I suppose I could grind a low spot in the 4” cross member as a third option?

[Fixit]

Raising the lower bearing point isn't really an option for them, it's really tight already with a Coyote powerplant
(**Future Build Tip Ahead** You'll have to disconnect the shaft at the steering box and swing it outboard just to get the engine in there, so don't LockTite anything down there yet!)...
Be it a shim, washers, or RT's signal setup, that little bit of angle change won't affect anything. The steering wheel (by design) isn't actually parallel to the dash now.
I'd avoid grinding a radius in the crosstube. It's not worth the effort when a $.05 washer will fix the problem.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Put a couple of flat washers under the pillow block---DONE!

Jeff

[GTBradley]

I had planned on moving it for engine install. I moved ahead on steps as I still have POL items holding up earlier steps. Good to know about it not affecting the steering wheel position much. Thank you.

[GTBradley]

Put a couple of flat washers under the pillow block---DONE!

Jeff
Done!

[GTBradley]

I'm going to pull the trigger on the tires. Putting this car on it's wheels can't be more than a couple weeks away. From what I've read on the forums Nitto is a favorite and I think I like the NT555 G2 for its balance of performance and tread life.

size:
255/40 17 $128 each. Weight: (tire and wheel) = 48 lbs
315/35 17 $203 each. Weight: (tire and wheel) = 55 lbs

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101280&d=1548527570

[BadAsp427]

Now would be a very good time for you to review this post concerning front steering rack setup... (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?19175-Steering-Rack-Install-Setup-Procedure) If you find your correct center now, and mark it for later use, you will save yourself a lot of trouble in the future. This photo shows how I marked the steering rod and rack so that I can always take my rack back to dead center. NOTE: this is not the same as turning your wheel lock to lock and back to midway...

101312 101313

[GTBradley]

Now would be a very good time for you to review this post concerning front steering rack setup... (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?19175-Steering-Rack-Install-Setup-Procedure)
...and perfect timing, I was just starting my investigation of this.

One question, I have not done initial alignment of the rear wheels yet as I am still waiting on the e-brake cable and the manual says not to tighten bolts down until the e-brake step is done. Will this affect the steering rack setup? ...I see there is a step in there where a string is run from the rear wheels to the front.

[BadAsp427]

...and perfect timing, I was just starting my investigation of this.

One question, I have not done initial alignment of the rear wheels yet as I am still waiting on the e-brake cable and the manual says not to tighten bolts down until the e-brake step is done. Will this affect the steering rack setup? ...I see there is a step in there where a string is run from the rear wheels to the front.

The main part of this is to find your center on the rack. The actual alignment will come later and with your IRS, you only have toe and camber adjustments to worry about, you can get those pretty close by eye for now. You will have plenty of time to get the alignment later. It is just very easy to do the centering with everything out of the way at this time. Actual front end alignment will also be done later in your build.

[GTBradley]

I went ahead and set the toe and camber on the rears too:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101458&d=1548824583


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101457&d=1548824561

One thing I'm a little concerned about is the distance from shock to rear tire near the tops - it is different from one side to the other. Actually, with the shock body up the spring hat was touching the tire so I flipped both shocks. I haven't read into rear wheel alignment yet as I still need to install the e-brake and torque the rear wheel nuts.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101459&d=1548824616


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101460&d=1548824641

Initial alignment done, steering wheel straight


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103453&d=1552156566

[GTBradley]

Okay, some good progress since last post and I'll get that all posted soon, but right now I've got some real consternation going on here. I don't get this throw out arm. I have the Coyote/TKO600 kit from Forte's. The clutch is a RAM. The first problem is there is minimal direction from RAM on how to install the clutch. But I should be able to figure this out, right? Anyway, if someone has put together the same setup as I have here please chime in.

In one box was was the shorter, black pivot and the silver, longer pivot in with the clutch parts. I don't know which to use...
***edit - Mike Forte says use the shorter black one.***

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102386&d=1550548870

Then I have this, while the arm sits on the pivot the throw out bearing is not aligned with the center:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102387&d=1550548887

I have the throw out bearing installed on the arm like this:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102391&d=1550548978
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102390&d=1550548935
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102389&d=1550548909


So what's going on here, is it me or do I have parts issues? And where are the detailed instructions? Did I misplace them or what?

[Fixit]

You're so close...
102398 102399

The bearing just needs to be pushed further onto the throwout arm. When in the correct position it'll kinda just flop/rock on those pivot humps in the arm, but not fall out of place.

Unfortunately I don't remember which pivot stud I used. Here's a pic of mine installed
102400 (I'm thinking it was the black stud.)

When all is good and you'll not be taking anything apart again, slather a light smear of chassis grease on the snout of the gearbox (where the TOB slides on), and on the pivot stud & fork detent.

[Straversi]

I had the same questions. Call Mike Forte. He will walk you through it. Best thing about buying from Forte is that he will happily guide you through any problems you have.
-Steve

[GTBradley]

Thank you. Fixed it in five seconds. Sure would be nice if there were better instructions. Oh well, moving on.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102414&d=1550591825

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102413&d=1550591814

[GTBradley]

I’m going to definitely speak with Mike to make sure I’m doing this right.

[Fixit]

Sure would be nice if there were better instructions. Oh well, moving on.

My guess is that the mfg's (and maybe Mike) is assuming that if someone's undertaking this project, they've probably done a clutch install before, and feel that detailed instructions aren't necessary... maybe maybe not.
Personally I'd have liked to have some detailed instructions on Mike's hydraulic setup. It was a bit interesting figuring out what went where.

Be sure to use the supplied plastic dummy input shaft when assembling the clutch disc & pressure plate. It simulates the input shaft of the transmission, and keeps the disc concentric with everything... Also a light smear of chassis grease on the input shaft splines and pilot nose when you grunt the transmission into place.
Here's a couple of links that have a few handy tips n tricks for installing the transmission
Post 72 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27544-The-40-Watt-Garage-9365-Stalled-by-Mother-Nature&p=328515&viewfull=1#post328515)
Post 76 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27544-The-40-Watt-Garage-9365-Stalled-by-Mother-Nature&p=328523&viewfull=1#post328523)

[GTBradley]

I’ve actually installed 3 or 4 clutches in my time, but more than 2 decades ago. Still would have thought this would be an easier job. Maybe they should hire you for technical write ups. :cool:

Questions, I don’t remember seeing that plug, is it in one of my boxes? Also, I didn’t paint that blocking plate but it comes off without removing the flywheel, do you think I should pull it and POR15 it?

I did use the alighnment tool. I’ve seen that the pressure plate bolts are toqued to 35 ft/lbs in Ram’s instructions and 35 plus 60 degrees in a FFF post. Which did you do?

[Fixit]

Yeah... I found out about the inspection cover/plate being able to be fitted after 102433 I'd removed the flywheel.
If I recall it's just raw steel, so it needs some type of protection... but I wouldn't go as far as POR-15. That stuff has a pretty thick film thickness. A light rattle can metal primer coat, then color of choice.
I don't remember if the rubber plug was knocking around in the "Ford Performance" parts box, or in one of Mike's boxes. Couldn't figure out what it was for until I saw a pic somewhere then 102434

I used the RAM recommended 35 ft.lbs., then just an extra tweak of about 10degs.

[GTBradley]

Yeah... I found out about the inspection cover/plate being able to be fitted after 102433 I'd removed the flywheel.
LOL. It did appear to me at first that it wouldn’t go on without pulling the flywheel. I only figured it out in time because I’m lazy a will do twice as much work trying to find a shortcut than it takes to do the job.

[GTBradley]

Bet you guys thought I was gone for good, didn't ya? Well, as it turns out I have developed a serious obsession/addiction for the build and I never have the time or the energy to do the build thread. Sorry about that. I am planning to catch up now as the family and I all headed out to the mountains for a spring break skiing trip and I'm nursing a finger injury anyway.

It will be quick updates as best I can remember them and depending on how good my notes were. I have been taking pictures though. I haven't run into anything too difficult or any earth-shattering problems, though some things have stumped me on the transmission for which Mike at Forte's was kind enough to help with on a Saturday night - that guy is committed to his craft! I have spent all my spare time in the garage since early January and I'm pleased with the progress, however; I'm not fast nor do I want to be because I love doing this. Which is strange because I also can't wait to drive it. Oh, the stress!

[GTBradley]

I bought a nutsert tool and broke it on the first nutsert. I guess I was thinking of it as a rivit rather than a rivnut and I pulled it until it popped. The company was great though, they sent me a whole rivnut kit.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103456&d=1552156655


Anyway, this is what I needed it for


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103452&d=1552156498


Though, I changed my mind on the square hatch and made a round (ish) hatch and used more fasteners. I figure this is a location that will leak in the rain, so I sealed it with weather strip too. This is the Russ Thompson Drop Trunk too. Great product though it is tricky to get it in there with the gas tank and all.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103451&d=1552156473
Footboxes are started. No issues here, though I was a little thrown by a statement in the manual about not riveting to the main round frame tube when doing the floor. It turns out it’s okay and necessary on the floor pan in the footboxes.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103449&d=1552156407


I also bought the thicker tunnel top and partly so I could cut my own shifter hole because I wanted to use the mid-shifter. I may be changing my mind on that, but I’m happy to say that Mike Forte said he has developed a rear to mid-shift conversion which avoids splitting the TKO transmission.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103415&d=1552154703

[GTBradley]

I bought the Harbor Freight Bauer hand held band saw and mounted on some scrap lumber to turn it into a bench top model – amazingly capable. I have a ¼” aluminum plate I’ll attach to it for the deck.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103468&d=1552157197


It’s cold in the garage so I bought a 30,000 BTU natural gas heater which puts out virtually no CO. It’s comfy now!


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103467&d=1552157191

[GTBradley]

Got a poster for Christmas and finally put it up. It serves as a reference for curious but unknowing neighbors and as inspiration for me - pfff like I needed any.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103437&d=1552155963

[GTBradley]

I made my gas pedal extension from edwardbs suggestion. This allows the pedal to be moved away from the foot box wall. I made mine out of steel flat bar stock from Home Depot, it’s not as wide but it worked well.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103434&d=1552155794


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103433&d=1552155775


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103432&d=1552155732


Pedal mod is complete.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103430&d=1552155601


I like how the pedal feels, but it’s hard to tell without a seat.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103431&d=1552155650


I selected the Breeze Auto fuel delivery system. I think it’s brilliant. The pump is in the tank, the regulator is on the tank, the filter is on the tank, the return line stays at the tank. So all I had to do was run the braided fuel line to the fuel rail on the engine. This is as simple as it gets, plus it can supply more horsepower than the coyote makes…I like it!


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103429&d=1552155536
EDIT: at the time of my installation FFR was supplying a fill tube gasket that was inferior to the Ford OEM part. My suggestion to anyone reading this is to verify that you are installing the OEM part number F4ZZ9072DA (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Q6QO7C/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_ZSYQH2DDY1NAGPZ25H6E?_encodin g=UTF8&psc=1). It’s about 20 bucks more but the knock-off one lasted me less than 10,000 miles.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103436&d=1552155888

[GTBradley]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103419&d=1552154913

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103428&d=1552155473

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103422&d=1552155144

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103417&d=1552154894

[GTBradley]

I decided on the single FFR supplied brake reservoir placed in the suggested location. I like the way it looks and it doesn’t block the view of the valve cover from the left fender view point.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103421&d=1552155113


I took the fairly typical routes out of the foot box forward and aft. Going through the foot box avoids the heat of the header. It travels behind the outer foot box vertical round tube, which I found to be plenty safe a location away from feet or anything else. It exits through a grommet in the floor pan. The forward brake line travels across the upper engine bay square tube to the left front brake.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103438&d=1552156136

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103427&d=1552155431

[GTBradley]

I don't know whether I will try to replace the misaligned panel or leave it. It doesn't look as though it will interfere with anything. I could also trim off the overhanging piece.

[GTBradley]

The left front brake coupling is where I discovered my first mistake and what I think is FFRs fault originally. The left side F-panel is not positioned correctly as I could not mount the brake coupling in the correct location without modifying the F-panel. Here’s a picture of the left panel at the forward point and it is much wider when compared to the right one. I can only imagine that when I was mounting it I aligned the top and forward points and this caused a slight tilt and moved it forward in the brake coupling area about ¼” to ½”.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103447&d=1552156226


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103448&d=1552156273

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104471&d=1553556852

[GTBradley]

I ran the brake line that crosses over to the right front across the main tube just a little higher than where the front battery box will go, but still lower than the top of the tube.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103423&d=1552155248


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103420&d=1552154962

[GTBradley]

Going aft I ended up having to use the short piece of brake tubing to make it all the way, so I placed it in between the two longer pieces.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103426&d=1552155405


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103425&d=1552155312


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103424&d=1552155270


Note: The rest of the brake line pictures going to the rear brakes were posted earlier starting at post #123 page 4.

[GTBradley]

Got back from our trip Yesterday and had these nifty items waiting for me: the VW glove box latch many people seem to like now and the free Tremec shift ball.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104570&d=1553741597

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104569&d=1553741587

[GTBradley]

I also purchased a hydraulic crimp tool to get those battery terminals done. Still a good price on Amazon.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104568&d=1553741576

[GTBradley]

If anybody has had trouble getting the big tip (3/16ths) in the pneumatic rivet gun I found a handy trick. Hold the tip upright with the closed end of a 10 mm wrench and compress the spring by pushing the gun down on it, then just turn the wrench to catch some threads.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104672&d=1553906255

[GTBradley]

Cockpit panels are all done, so it's time to lay in the Cool It Thermotec

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104674&d=1553909158

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104673&d=1553907395

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104677&d=1553909345

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104676&d=1553909319

[GTBradley]

First, rough up with scotch-brite, then wipe down with acetone

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104678&d=1553910161

[GTBradley]

When you inadvertently turn your template upside down for the firewall and ruin a large piece of Thermotec...it fits nicely on the back deck as it has the same radius.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104679&d=1553910212

[GTBradley]

This stuff is easy to work with, but this is a bigger job than I thought

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104680&d=1553910227

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104681&d=1553910243

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104682&d=1553910278

It took three and a quarter rolls to get to this point. I still have the tunnel top to do.

[GTBradley]

I installed the Breeze forward battery box. It's a bit of a job, but this is a well made product and it's stainless steel so no need to paint it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104689&d=1553912740

[GTBradley]

Factory Five's supplied clutch switch and bracket, also stainless steel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104688&d=1553912723

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104687&d=1553912708

[GTBradley]

Cockpit fuse panel

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104686&d=1553912692

[GTBradley]

Access holes were easy to cut with some basic hole saw tools from Harbor Freight

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104684&d=1553912674

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104685&d=1553912682

[GTBradley]

I mounted the power distribution block and electrical cutoff switch in the same place as edwardb. They are very handy locations for these things, but I don't know that I will wire things exactly the same. Mostly because I don't want to buy 2 AWG battery wire. We'll see...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104691&d=1553912758

[GTBradley]

I've been somewhat stuck on what to do next and it just hit me...I could put the motor in:eek:, yes?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104697&d=1553914013

[GTBradley]

So what is this existing wire going to the PDB from the coyote wiring harness, does anyone recognize it?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104741&d=1553967414

I'm guessing it's at least partially the HAAT (Hot At All Times) power, but does it get connected along with the power wire from the battery through the cutoff switch as shown in the coyote install manual? Or could I connect it to the battery side of the cutoff switch?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104742&d=1553967420

[edwardb]

Yes I recognize it. I believe the Ford instructions say to attach it to the fused side of the megafuse, e.g. same side as the short power cable to the PDB. Opposite side as where the power is coming in. That's what I've done on my builds.

[GTBradley]

Yes I recognize it. I believe the Ford instructions say to attach it to the fused side of the megafuse, e.g. same side as the short power cable to the PDB. That's what I've done on my builds.

Thank you. It being attached the PDB right out of the box threw me for a loop. And now that I think of it, electrically speaking that's effectively the same point.

[edwardb]

Thank you. It being attached the PDB right out of the box threw me for a loop. And now that I think of it, electrically speaking that's effectively the same point.

Right. Same difference.

[GTBradley]

Right. Same difference.
I see it now in one of your pictures, way down under the PDB - had to zoom in.

[GTBradley]

The Coyote is in it's den. Thanks to Scott Kussel and Evan Middleton for helping me get this done in short order.

Installation went well with a few minor scratches and one thing I need to fix.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108308&d=1559610052 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108307&d=1559609637

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108306&d=1559609625

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104851&d=1554090748

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104852&d=1554090755

The Firewall Forward puts the new larger PDB too close to the engine to be mounted low. I'll be moving it about half way up the Firewall.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104853&d=1554090761

[GTBradley]

Can I just say, even though it's been said a hundred times already, Damn, that's a wide engine!

[Straversi]

Congratulations. Now the real fun begins.
-Steve

[Fixit]

Can I just say, even though it's been said a hundred times already, Damn, that's a wide engine!

Yup... it's all cylinder head.

Curious... what are your clearances PS & DS to the footbox tin?

[GTBradley]

Congratulations. Now the real fun begins.
-Steve
Right? So many options. Now I can’t decide what I want to work on next. So I just keep working.

Thanks.

[GTBradley]

Yup... it's all cylinder head.

Curious... what are your clearances PS & DS to the footbox tin?
A full inch on the PS foot box. As little as a quarter inch on the drivers side. It’s a half inch on average, but at the bolt bump out it’s a quarter. Is that common?

[Fixit]

A full inch on the PS foot box. As little as a quarter inch on the drivers side.

That's just about exactly what I wound up with.

[GTBradley]

Can anyone help me with identifying which harness this Intercooler wire is in?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105461&d=1554937544

[edwardb]

Can anyone help me with identifying which harness this Intercooler wire is in?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105461&d=1554937544

Ford Coyote control pack harness.

[GTBradley]

Does it really need to be cut back, because I can't find it.

[edwardb]

Does it really need to be cut back, because I can't find it.

No, it doesn't hurt anything to be there. But a little strange you can't find it. It's item P on the control pack harness, per the Ford instructions.

https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtM-6017-504V.pdf

[GTBradley]

Ah, thank you. I totally forgot to download that from Ford. I have been using the FFR Coyote Installation instructions exclusively to try and locate it. Everything has been fine until this FFR picture came up. I had identified the right wire on my own, but apparently the FFR picture is old because it shows the wrong colors and that threw me. You've got me back on track once again.

[GTBradley]

Paul, while you're at it, would you give me your thoughts on this location for my overflow tank? I know you didn't use the FFR tank, but do you think this location will work regarding hood hinges, etc? I can't go more aft as the engine is so wide, so I think I'm stuck with this side of the brake line or a different tank altogether.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105484&d=1554952944 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105484&d=1554952944)

[edwardb]

Paul, while you're at it, would you give me your thoughts on this location for my overflow tank? I know you didn't use the FFR tank, but do you think this location will work regarding hood hinges, etc? I can't go more aft as the engine is so wide, so I think I'm stuck with this side of the brake line or a different tank altogether.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105484&d=1554952944 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105484&d=1554952944)

The front to back location will clear the hinges OK. Just watch the height. The gas shock for the hood drops down exactly into that area. Keep it below the bottom of the 3/4-inch hood surround tube (including with the cap) and you'll clear the gas shock.

[GTBradley]

So the Ford Controls Pack Instruction Sheet says the AC wires come off Takeout CCA, but their picture does not look like what I have. I'm assuming these (pictured below) wires are the same thing. Can anyone with Coyote confirm please?

These are coming from Takeout CCA, along with the fan wire and starter lead.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105630&d=1555197779

[edwardb]

Per the Ford Performance Gen 2 Coyote Control Pack instructions, and my memory, the wires you're picturing here are from the 16-way I/P Pigtail cable. Not the main wiring harness. If those are really in the main harness, then something has changed. i know Ford Performance has made some changes with the later versions of the Control Pack. Later than the Gen 2 version I installed. If that's the case, maybe call the Ford Performance help line. Unless someone else on here has experience with a later version.

[GTBradley]

You got me to thinkin...I needed the M50A 2017 tech sheet. (https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtM-6017-M50A_504V_Rev3.pdf) Those wires I was asking about are intended for Electric Power-Assisted Steering (EPAS) and this one does not have the option for A/C.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105655&d=1555214159

[edwardb]

You got me to thinkin...I needed the M50A 2017 tech sheet. Those wires I was asking about are intended for Electric Power-Assisted Steering (EPAS) and this one does not have the option for A/C.

There you go. Hadn't seen that update, but shows some of the changes I've heard about. Nothing that should affect anything with your build. Just different.

[GTBradley]

There you go. Hadn't seen that update, but shows some of the changes I've heard about. Nothing that should affect anything with your build. Just different.
In fact, everything had been identical til the A/C wires were missing. Don’t know why they would omit those, but I hadn’t planned on air conditioning here in the mountains anyway.

[GTBradley]

Well, it's been a couple of months again since I updated the thread with details, so I'll try to catch it all up again.

[GTBradley]

Only minor scratches to the frame, but we apparently broke the LS O2 sensor plug. It still works and makes a good connection, so I have it zip tied to stay together. I'm not sure how to go about replacing it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108309&d=1559610992

[GTBradley]

I made my spacers - three of them out of 1/4" aluminum plate I ordered from Amazon.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108404&d=1559830692 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108403&d=1559830686 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108405&d=1559832142

Longer bolts were needed and 7/16" -14 by 1.5 inches long worked.

[GTBradley]

3/4" of lift provided by the spacers seems to align the transmission with the center sect just fine.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108401&d=1559830663

[GTBradley]

I found this badge online some time ago and can't remember where. I really like it but I don't know who sells it. Does anybody know?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108406&d=1559833592

[GTBradley]

Routing the fuel line in the engine bay

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108417&d=1559836686

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108419&d=1559836716 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108418&d=1559836699

The fuel line for this setup has no return line in the engine bay, and the regulator is back at the fuel tank so this is super easy and clean. As a result, the vacuum line that would go to the fuel regulator is capped at the engine.

[Jdav]

I found this badge online some time ago and can't remember where. I really like it but I don't know who sells it. Does anybody know?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108406&d=1559833592

Wareaglescott has them. I believe he got them from https://www.billetbadges.com/

[GTBradley]

Radiator installed using Breeze upper and lower mounts. The piano hinge makes setting the correct angle a...well...let's just say it, a breeze.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108420&d=1559842661 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108421&d=1559842668

Breeze fan shroud and radiator stainless hoses:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108423&d=1559842684 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108424&d=1559842689

Because the lower radiator hose was moving around a bit I tapped a bolt into the cross member and added a snug-fit vibration dampening loop clamp from McMaster, part number 3177T59. This also keeps it higher up away from the road.

[GTBradley]

I mounted the supplied radiator reservoir here. I have to admit I don't know why I've seen this one and a larger one mounted in other build threads, but this is working so far. Maybe it's for additional capacity?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105484&d=1554952944

[GTBradley]

Wareaglescott has them. I believe he got them from https://www.billetbadges.com/
Ah, thank you! I remember now I saw them on his thread last fall. I think that's a snip from his photo. I took it to remind me...

[GTBradley]

Power steering installed. I love the design of this pump and reservoir! it fits snugly into the engine and saves space over previous designs I've seen and it's easy to install.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108425&d=1559844962

[Jdav]

I mounted the supplied radiator reservoir here. I have to admit I don't know why I've seen this one and a larger one mounted in other build threads, but this is working so far. Maybe it's for additional capacity?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105484&d=1554952944

The power steering fluid reservoir (if you had that option prior to FFR switching to the current power steering set up) was similar looking but smaller. THat could be what you have seen.

FYI - I, along with many others went with a moroso coolant tank that allows for factory routing of coolant hoses vs the capped lines that FFR instructs.

[GTBradley]

I mounted my OBD-II plug vertically to hide it. This photo is looking up from the foot box through the pedal box. The second shows that the plug is still quite accessible and the light can be seen from the driver’s seat with a little bending down.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108428&d=1559846242 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108429&d=1559846248

[GTBradley]

The power steering fluid reservoir (if you had that option prior to FFR switching to the current power steering set up) was similar looking but smaller. THat could be what you have seen.

FYI - I, along with many others went with a moroso coolant tank that allows for factory routing of coolant hoses vs the capped lines that FFR instructs.
What do you mean by capped? Mine goes from the radiator pressure cap to the fill pipe in the bottom of the reservoir and then an overflow drain line comes out the bottom.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108434&d=1559848058

[Jdav]

What do you mean by capped? Mine goes from the radiator pressure cap to the fill pipe in the bottom of the reservoir and then an overflow drain line comes out the bottom as well

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108434&d=1559848058

In stock form there are additional overflow inlets that the FFR tank doesn't accommodate so the instructions have you cap or loop those outlets on the engine. I don't recall anyone having an issue with that route, but many people choose to follow the ford planned routing using an aftermarket tank and hoses. EdwardB details it our pretty nicely:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=220495&highlight=moroso#post220495

[GTBradley]

In stock form there are additional overflow inlets that the FFR tank doesn't accommodate so the instructions have you cap or loop those outlets on the engine. I don't recall anyone having an issue with that route, but many people choose to follow the ford planned routing using an aftermarket tank and hoses. EdwardB details it our pretty nicely:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=220495&highlight=moroso#post220495
Thanks, I'll check that out. I have to admit I haven't been keeping up with the forums - too busy working on the car:o

[GTBradley]

Started the daunting task of wiring of the instrument cluster
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107724&d=1558493144

[GTBradley]

...and five minutes later:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108311&d=1559611023

[GTBradley]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108313&d=1559611047

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108312&d=1559611037 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108316&d=1559611090

[GTBradley]

Did I say minutes? It may have been days, but no real problems here. I blew a few fuses - bought the multi pack!

I learned what a real sports car was watching my dad manipulate the toggles and knobs on a Jaguar XKE in the early 60's. I love switches and knobs! It's probably what drove me to flying. Anyway, my dash is filthy with gauges, switches and knobs and I love it!

[GTBradley]

108566

So I’m interested in this steel blue color. I wonder if anyone recognizes it? I found it on a website selling the car https://www.pjsautoworld.com/vehicles/164/1965-factory-five-cobra
They just described it as steel blue metallic.

[GTBradley]

Can anyone tell me what these are? They came in the Coyote install kit I bought a while back, thanks.

108688

[Cruzzz]

Bottom is the Coyote pedal mount. This is relatively new and gets the pedal even with the others.

[GTBradley]

Bottom is the Coyote pedal mount. This is relatively new and gets the pedal even with the others.
Thank you. I have been stumped by that one for some time. Either I missed something, or they don’t tell you that in the Coyote install manual. I guess I should have checked sooner - I ended up fabricating my own.

[edwardb]

X2 on the Coyote pedal mount. The other part is intended to mount the Power Distribution Box (PDB). Depends on where you mount it whether you need the bracket or not. The PDB has mounting ears and I've mounted them directly to the firewall without anything additional.

[PeteMeindl]

Can anyone tell me what these are? They came in the Coyote install kit I bought a while back, thanks.

108688

Hi GT - loved your 5 minutes til the dash was done! :) I think that top piece you're asking about is to mount a box that's part of the coyote wiring harness on top of the passenger footbox. It's shown on page 67 of the coyote fitment manual (version 9/5/18). You're making great progress!!

[GTBradley]

Thanks Paul and Pete, I thought I remembered something along those lines. I mounted to the firewall, following fairly close to Paul's install and didn't need it. It seems a little lightweight for that purpose though, so I thought maybe it was for something else.

Thanks, Pete, I'm actually a lot farther along than what it shows here, it's just that with work, a major house remodel and me spending all my spare time on the car I've had zero time for the thread, but I'll get it done.

[GTBradley]

Any takers on this one? I haven’t a clue what these steel brackets are for, though they may be for the body.

108853

[Fixit]

Had the same question awhile back... they're the corner braces/brackets for the hood pins

[edwardb]

You are using hood pins in your builds, right? ;) Scrap metal, although I've cut them up and fabricated a couple other things from them.

[GTBradley]

Had the same question awhile back... they're the corner braces/brackets for the hood pins
Okay, thank you. There’s been a few things like that I just set aside until the manual brings it up.

[GTBradley]

You must be talking to Fixit, Paul, cause my wife won’t let me do plural build(s)...yet.

[edwardb]

You must be talking to Fixit Paul, cause my wife won’t let me do plural build(s)...yet.

:o Was responding to both of you. But hang in there.

[GTBradley]

:o Was responding to both of you. But hang in there.
Thanks man. I’m on it.
Little sneak peek here just for you guys - don’t tell anybody because I’m not caught up on the thread yet:
108889

[GTBradley]

I saw in the glove box instructions downloaded from FF parts a picture of a glove box door stiffener, but no such thing was in the boxes I received. So I made my own from leftover panel aluminum. I attached it to the plastic door with glue and then attached my hinges to the door using JB Weld.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109076&d=1560895333

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109077&d=1560895341

I'm also using the VW keyed latch from Ebay.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109080&d=1560896004

[GTBradley]

THE hardest job I've had to-date on this project, even more so than pulling new studs into the wheel flange (before I figured out the easy way - see video posted earlier) is the LS header bolts. No room and the hardest to reach galled on me. I came back the next day to finish two of the bolts because my arms were spent. I got them on there and the RS was no big deal, but man, what a job!

FFR side pipes on for testing, GasNs coming later.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109081&d=1560896479

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109082&d=1560896490