GTBradley's build - how far will a Coyote go w/no rad. cap?

[GTBradley]

Okay, so I wanted it all - a firewall forward, full-size glove box, heater and the Coyote. And I'm here to say it fits even with a bypass valve hidden under the engine cover.

The first thing I did was cut a big-honkin' hole in my firewall

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109085&d=1560897282 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109088&d=1560897310

Then I made brackets to hold the heater in place as it will only stick into the engine bay by a couple of inches at the heater's widest point and there are no existing mounting options here


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109083&d=1560897252 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109087&d=1560897300

There is exactly zero room between the glove box and the heater, but that's a good thing as this lends rigidity to the back of the glove box

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109086&d=1560897292 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109084&d=1560897259

[GTBradley]

Be conscious of the direction the coolant flows through the Old Air Products bypass valve (https://www.oldairproducts.com/product/25-1018-bypass-heater-valve-pull-to-open/Default.aspx?gfid=p123438&source=googleshopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3uj3q8-j3QIVFcpkCh143g92EAkYBCABEgI4SvD_BwE)as it is one way valve.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109091&d=1560897334

To give the heater hoses some room I did a u-turn down into the bell housing area where they won't be seen.
I mounted my valve upside down and it fit like it was meant to be there under the engine cover and I can't see it much at all.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109090&d=1560897326 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109089&d=1560897317

[GTBradley]

Success! Well, after I reversed the flow that is:o

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109092&d=1560897342

[GTBradley]

I received my kit from JLT and installed the CMVV and PCV ports on the intake tube along with the mass air flow sensor.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109093&d=1560899564

[GTBradley]

I put the rear over rider couplers on, but I've been hearing from painters that say they just take them off. It may be different with mine, as I have the drop trunk making things even tighter

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109096&d=1560900219 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109095&d=1560900210 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109094&d=1560900201

[GTBradley]

This is going to be a well driven car and conveniences/creature comforts (mostly hidden) rule. Still, it was hard to make the decision to cut the hole for the cubby, but it is so dang convenient! What with jackets, camera, water, etc. And power ports, my hidden seat heat switches - how could I not? I'd still like to hide though, I just don't know how yet.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109097&d=1560900788 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109098&d=1560900795 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109099&d=1560900801

What might be a good idea is to mount the divider on a piano hinge to allow access to the cubby area from the trunk. Maybe later...

[GTBradley]

Roll bar was a non-issue - drilled it, mounted it, done. Edit: Later I went back and cut it down by ¾" as it was way tall!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109100&d=1560900927 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109101&d=1560900932

[GTBradley]

So I wanted a way to mount the dash without putting screws through the front of it. What I tried first was a total failure and a big waste of time. I mounted tabs at three locations along the top dash frame ¾" tube. I then drilled multiple holes in the face of the tabs to allow JB weld to grip the dash through. I roughed up the back of the dash where the JB Weld would go and clamped it all down over night.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109107&d=1560902179 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109105&d=1560902109

It seemed to work, but after a short time the connections popped loose under some moderate pressure. Back to the drawing board...though I would not be defeated! After visiting my friend, and yours, Dave (Papa) and learning of the way he was attaching his tunnel cover with 3M Dual Lock I thought I would give it a try on the dash. It works well!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109106&d=1560902154

There is an added benefit - when you realize your left most gauge is too close to the body you can pull the dash off and remount it a ¼" lower.

[GTBradley]

I had read that the cable clutch actuator at the top of the clutch pedal is somewhat misaligned and can cause chafing to the cladding of the cable. I took the extra step of unmounting the cable and grinding away at the sharp metal edges to try and prevent this from happening

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109108&d=1560904383

After that I made the bold decision to button up the foot box! The next day I found a reason to need access to the foot box area and wished I hadn't buttoned it up. It's like that English Lit. paper back in college, you revise and you revise and you never seem to be done, until you realize you need to move on. Oh well...I'm flexible enough...I think.

I also did the rivet nut hatch access panel for the foot box

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109110&d=1560904414 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109111&d=1560904439

[GTBradley]

I bought the FF metal thick metal tunnel top because I wanted that solid feel in the area people are likely touch the most. I had no idea how solid this thing would end up!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109114&d=1560905620

I had an upholsterer put ⅛" padding and leather with french stitching on the tunnel top. I then stuck Cool It Thermo Tec to the bottom of it and attached it all to the crossbars with 3M Dual Lock. This thing feels like a stage floor - it is solid enough to walk on.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109112&d=1560905542 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109113&d=1560905557

BTW, what you see in the photo is about all that I had left of the four rolls of Thermo Tec. Just about perfect!

[GTBradley]

It turned out pretty well, I think

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109117&d=1560906689 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109116&d=1560906681 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109118&d=1560907116

Credit to Papa Dave for lots of good ideas here.

[GTBradley]

While we're on the subject, that shift ball may or may not stay. I got it for free from Tremec. Changing out the original shift ball is not easy though. First off, I had to use a pipe wrench and piece of heater hose to turn the knob. And second, the shifter shaft thread did not match up to any of the adapters Tremec sent. The shifter shaft FFR supplies is a ⅜-24 thread. So I used a 21/64" drill bit to drill out the closest sized adapter and rethreaded it. Holding the adapter while drilling it required the use of a compression fitting stuffed with wood chips to prevent it from threading itself all the way in and never coming back out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109119&d=1560909409 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109122&d=1560909431 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109121&d=1560909423

Pretty minor thing to write about I know, but it might help somebody.

[GTBradley]

I brought the body down for the first time since January and it's down for good!
I took it off the body buck and used the nylon rope and some padding to help me install and remove it from the car a couple of times by myself. It is easier with two people though.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109123&d=1560910872 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109125&d=1560910892 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109126&d=1560910901 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109124&d=1560910881

It needed trimming around the pipes and the ends of the dash, but it fits really well with little effort on my part. I'll let the painter do the undercoating and additional trimming.

[GTBradley]

On 4/25/2019 we had our first official start!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109136&d=1560912680



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JRtMtOx_U0I&feature=youtu.be

[Papa]

Looks good, Bradley! I love the family event for the first start and especially having the young man doing the honors.

Dave

[GTBradley]

Looks good, Bradley! I love the family event for the first start and especially having the young man doing the honors.

Dave
Thanks Dave.

I was going to wait for even more family on Sunday, but couldn't help myself. The funny thing was, I thought we had a problem because the first time we tried to start it nothing happened...I forgot to tell Evan to push the clutch in:o. We did a second video and considered it the first.

[GTBradley]

5/12/2019 first drive. Oh happy days!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109137&d=1560914087



https://youtu.be/HmMszBMN8v0

[GTBradley]

Installed weather pack connectors to all the lights and tested them. Signals running lights, headlights and flashers, all working. Love these rainy days in the garage!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109225&d=1561000728

[GTBradley]

I like the look of stainless steel, especially when it comes to hardware. So I file the edges off the laser cut FFR hardware and rub it smooth with Scotch-Brite and finally treat it with clear paint. It ends up looking pretty nice I think.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109227&d=1561000904https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109231&d=1561000933

[GTBradley]

Big fat mistake! I cut through my cubby divider in the wrong place to mount my first trunk gas strut

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109229&d=1561000916 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109228&d=1561000910

No matter though, it'll patch and be covered by carpet

[GTBradley]

I wanted to carpet the trunk and I think the FFR carpet is pretty good quality so I ordered another roll. Unfortunately the shipping is as much as the carpet, so a single roll ended up costing over $50.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109237&d=1561004174

I needed to cover the sides of the trunk so I cut these templates and made some sheet metal panels that fit behind the roll bar anchor points

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109265&d=1561041549 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109267&d=1561041561

The slots cut through the middle in the shape of a T is for flexibility where the roll bar goes through and the grommet is for the license plate light wires loom.

[GTBradley]

I also wanted to fill in the hand brake hole a bit. I've read that there is no issue with water coming in here, but it was just too big for my taste

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109232&d=1561003008 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109233&d=1561003015

[GTBradley]

My seat heat was next and I don't want any modern switches to be visible so I made a bracket and mounted them in the cubby area. Up is high and down is low heat, so no issue with not being able to see the indicators. I'm not using the signal indicators in the speedo so I may see if I can use them for right/left seat on indicators. This all worked fine until it dawned on me that you probably can't reach these switches with a seatbelt harness on:eek:. Oh well, it's not difficult to slip out of one shoulder harness the few times you need to actuate these switches.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109238&d=1561004197

I mounted an LED light strip in the cubby area along with power ports that are always powered.

[GTBradley]

Carpeting went pretty well, but it is officially my least favorite job now. The 3M 77 spray glue works well, but it does float around and stick to your arms if you don't wear an old jacket

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109239&d=1561004207 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109240&d=1561004213 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109241&d=1561004219 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109242&d=1561004226 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109243&d=1561004232 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109244&d=1561004239

I'll cut the carpet where the Breeze seat brackets go when the time comes.

[GTBradley]

Trunk carpeting.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109247&d=1561004309

[Papa]

[QUOTE=GTBradley;371573]Carpeting went pretty well, but it is officially my least favorite job now. The 3M 77 spray glue works well, but it does float around and stick to your arms if you don't wear an old jacket

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109239&d=1561004207 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109240&d=1561004213 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109241&d=1561004219

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109242&d=1561004226 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109243&d=1561004232 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109244&d=1561004239

Bradley,

Did you mount the bottom bracket already? I mounted mine to the floor and carpeted over it, then bolted the top bracket with the carpet in place.

Dave

[GTBradley]

Did you mount the bottom bracket already? I mounted mine to the floor and carpeted over it, then bolted the top bracket with the carpet in place.

Dave
I didn't, that's a nice idea though. I'll cut the carpet bigger than the bracket and lay it under there. I may have to use new carpet for that too, as the fibers tend to pull through when peeling it loose. Thanks.

[GTBradley]

I bought Cobraheat waterproof seat heaters. They make a nice kit. The pads install in the Cobra seats without cutting the heater pad, so it's a pretty easy job, though you do have to peel and re-glue the seat covering in places.
I routed my wires between the seat and the Breeze bracket because it provides a gap that is bigger than it looks in the picture. It comes out the back because I wanted to mount the relay on the back wall and route the wires into the cubby for hidden switches

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109257&d=1561038285

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109258&d=1561038292


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109264&d=1561038350

[GTBradley]

I had to remove the original connectors so I could cut a smaller hole in the back wall to run the wires through to the cubby. I replaced them with weather pack connectors. The hi/low switches are mounted in the cubby above the opening

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109263&d=1561038342

[GTBradley]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109262&d=1561038330 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109261&d=1561038322

[GTBradley]

I was concerned about the 10 amp rating on these times two going through my fuse box on a wire that doesn't appear to be a high enough gauge to handle 20 amps, which is also the size of fuse I'm using. I'm using the the electric choke location in the RF (Ron Francis) fuse panel. I turned both seats on high and let run for a while and the wire never heated up so, I guess it's not really pulling that many amps? I'll check it again when the seats are working hard on a cold day

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109260&d=1561038313

[GTBradley]

I've been talking with a lot of painters, I even started a thread collecting opinions on what people liked and disliked about paint shops. The consensus was that experience is second to none. For me the criteria was experience, price, location/distance (which goes to price as well) and level of interest in my car. Of coarse, my first choices were too long a lead time and/or too far away. It generally costs a dollar per mile to professionally transport. As luck would have it though I found an experienced painter in my hometown! Yeah, my hometown is 600 miles away, but this allowed me to get the job done for $330 and see family in the process.

So Evan and I put the body back on for the last time and drove it one more time before loading it up on a U-haul car carrier. We hit the road last Friday to deliver our Roadster to paint.

KC here we come! With an overnight stop at relatives in Abilene.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109293&d=1561067486


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109294&d=1561067496

[GTBradley]

Storms all around, but I navigated around all and only had to cover it at night. It went very well and other than some bugs and sun flower seed shells Evan was putting out the window landing in the roadster, it stayed clean and dry.

Exciting and depressing too, what with nothing on the trailer coming home

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109295&d=1561067504

[GTBradley]

I am a huge fan of the history of the Cobra and drivers like Ken Miles. I wanted a car that reminded my of that era and mostly I like the looks of the street Cobras. That makes me a fan of things like over riders and bumpers, hoops; nudge bars whatever you want to call them. However, I also wanted modern conveniences and reliability, so it's not a totally period-correct car. It also makes me a true fan of that iconic blue color and white racing stripes just like Ken Miles (https://shelbyamericancollection.org/cars/1964-usrrc-cobra-roadster-csx2431/) had on his number 98.

As seen at our very own Shelby American Museum (https://shelbyamericancollection.org) in Boulder Colorado:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109291&d=1561067421

[GTBradley]

I'm told that the Blue is Gaurdsman Blue and the Stripes are called Wimbledon White and that's what I'm gonna do! With just two racing stripes (no pinstripes). It will have a molded hood scoop made of fiberglass rather than the supplied plastic one and no rivets. I know the racing cars had the rivets typically, but if you look closely at Ken's racer you can't see them.

Some examples of blue Cobras I found on the internet:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107771&d=1558565566

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109292&d=1561067427

[PeteMeindl]

Bradley - wow! What great progress you're making - nice work, man!

[VAHokie]

Congrats, Bradley. You made quick work of that build! Can't wait to see the finished product.

[GTBradley]

Bradley - wow! What great progress you're making - nice work, man!
Thanks, I’m hoping to drive it in the Golden CO Super Cruise yet this year.

[GTBradley]

Congrats, Bradley. You made quick work of that build! Can't wait to see the finished product.
Thank you Tony. Ya know, my wife made the observation some time ago that she knows what it’s like to be widowed...I did obsess a bit. :rolleyes:

[GTBradley]

My body buck mod I forgot to post about in the beginning. It was made with 3/4" plywood and is designed to hang from a winch, but is easily adapted to a rolling floor type. It has a stretchy net for holding the body panels too.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109384&d=1561236445 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109383&d=1561236435

[GTBradley]

Has to be something good in here...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109637&d=1561587066

[GTBradley]

Those look goooood! Nice work Georgie.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109638&d=1561590778

[KDubU]

Those look goooood! Nice work Georgie.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109638&d=1561590778

The best IMHO.

[GTBradley]

That's the best looking Roadster you have there Kyle. I'm having the same paint scheme done to mine right now.

[Cruzzz]

I ordered the same pipes from Georgie and they are beautiful! Hope they sound half as good as they look.

[GTBradley]

I ordered the same pipes from Georgie and they are beautiful! Hope they sound half as good as they look.
I went to visit Dave aka Papa just to see what they sound like. I was sold on them in 10 seconds


https://youtu.be/qxF-K-vwR1c

[GTBradley]

Hey Dave, think we'll have the cars ready to debut at the movie debut?



https://youtu.be/zyYgDtY2AMY

[Papa]

That would be cool!

[GTBradley]

That would be cool!

We should get the Mile Hi Cobra Club to all go at the same time.

[Paul Mischenko]

Hey Dave, think we'll have the cars ready to debut at the movie debut?



https://youtu.be/zyYgDtY2AMY

Can't wait!!!

[cnutting]

It will have a molded hood scoop made of fiberglass rather than the supplied plastic one and no rivets. I know the racing cars had the rivets typically, but if you look closely at Ken's racer you can't see them.


That may be due to Ken's car being a 289. The hood is different than the 427 (actually... One of many differences) and the scoop isn't riveted.

[GTBradley]

I chose to go to a small paint shop in my hometown that had some experience with Factory Five cars and was highly recommended by his customers, so far I'm feeling good about the work he's doing:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114223&d=1568342030 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114224&d=1568342048

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114226&d=1568342079 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114225&d=1568342064

[GTBradley]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114231&d=1568343185 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114230&d=1568343158

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114229&d=1568343136 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114228&d=1568343072

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114227&d=1568343056

[GTBradley]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114234&d=1568343957

It's a family affair

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114233&d=1568343931

He makes his own molded hood scopes

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114232&d=1568343903

[GTBradley]

Bart says it's ready for the primer surfacer. I can hardly contain myself :D

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114235&d=1568343985

[GTBradley]

The Dupont paint is mixed

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114481&d=1568759556

How appropriate! The main toner is called "Fast Blue"

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114484&d=1568759914 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114482&d=1568759565

I prefer a molded hood scoop and this looks like it's done well. The scoop is Bart's own technique and is thicker than the supplied plastic scoop

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114483&d=1568759573

[GTBradley]

I'd like to say to the world "sorry for yet another blue roadster", but nope! I love it and it's exactly what I was looking for, so I hope you all like it as much as I do.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114485&d=1568759932

[Straversi]

Love it! Never apologize for Blue.
-Steve

[GTBradley]

Right? Thank you Steve.

[Papa]

Looks great Bradly! Mine should be wearing a proud blue coat soon.

[GTBradley]

Looks great Bradly! Mine should be wearing a proud blue coat soon.

Can’t wait to see that car of yours Dave, these are exciting times!

[Paul Mischenko]

I'm all for the blue n white...Looks great! Most importantly is that is came out the way you had hopped, congrats!

[GTBradley]

I'm all for the blue n white...Looks great! Most importantly is that is came out the way you had hopped, congrats!
Thanks. America’s colors right? At least, that’s what they called it back when Shelby was going up against the Italians.

[GoDadGo]

Won't Be Long For Graduation Time & A P.O.M. Entry I'm Sure!

https://youtu.be/k0AuipqPqsU

Looking Good Is An Understatement!

[GTBradley]

Won't Be Long For Graduation Time & A P.O.M. Entry I'm Sure!

https://youtu.be/k0AuipqPqsU

Looking Good Is An Understatement!

Ha! I got Chico’d! Now I know it’s good. Thanks man.

[KDubU]

She’s a beauty! Blue rocks.

[GTBradley]

She’s a beauty! Blue rocks.
As is yours! Love that Viking Blue. Thanks a bunch.

[D02G]

Looks great

[Jeff Kleiner]

Nice! :cool:

What is it? Looks like Guardsman but photos and monitors can be deceiving.

Jeff

[GTBradley]

Looks great

Thanks. I'm attempting to go pick it up this weekend.

[GTBradley]

Nice! :cool:

What is it? Looks like Guardsman but photos and monitors can be deceiving.

Jeff
Computer guy too! Man, you do it all! You are correct sir. However, the difficult part was getting a formula conversion for DuPont paint. We finally found a 1964 mustang that would work - it looks even lighter than that on my monitors, but I haven't seen it in person yet... My range of desired and acceptable blue was broad enough that I'm not disappointed if it is a little lighter.

[GTBradley]

So, I'm headed to KC this weekend to pick up the car and it looks like rain. Possibly a lot of rain. The car carrier is open, but I'm planning to use my car cover with a tarp over that and a stretchy cargo net over all of it to keep things from flapping in the wind. Anyone see a problem with this? Any suggestions? It's a good soft car cover, but I'm putting it over one week old paint...

[Jeff Kleiner]

So, I'm headed to KC this weekend to pick up the car and it looks like rain. Possibly a lot of rain. The car carrier is open, but I'm planning to use my car cover with a tarp over that and a stretchy cargo net over all of it to keep things from flapping in the wind. Anyone see a problem with this? Any suggestions? It's a good soft car cover, but I'm putting it over one week old paint...

Just let it get wet. Rain won't damage it...a cover, any cover, potentially will.

Jeff

[Bart@SnakeFarm]

I'm dying to know...how was your trip home?

[GTBradley]

I'm dying to know...how was your trip home?

600 miles of dodging and juking thunderstorms just like my KC Chiefs. I made it with not so much as a drop of rain inside the roadster. I did it without the cover the whole way too.

[GoDadGo]

600 miles of dodging and juking thunderstorms just like my KC Chiefs. I made it with not so much as a drop of rain inside the roadster. I did it without the cover the whole way too.

The Moral Of The Story:

Never Underestimate The Power of God Nor The Perseverance Of A Factory Five Family Member To Keep His Car Dry!

PS: Except For Mr. Kleiner!

[Bart@SnakeFarm]

600 miles of dodging and juking thunderstorms just like my KC Chiefs. I made it with not so much as a drop of rain inside the roadster. I did it without the cover the whole way too.

Good to hear! You must be living right. I'm glad you decided against the cover although you likely had to wave at a lot more people that way.

[GTBradley]

My gas stop in Colby, KS netted four full conversations and one hoot-n-holler driveby.

[GTBradley]

I went with with an open car carrier rented from U-Haul knowing there were major storms forecasted for Kansas. The U-Haul car carrier is great but not covered and at least 1000 pounds heavier than needed for my purposes.

114861114862114866

[GTBradley]

I stopped in Abilene overnight and Saturday I got word that we were delayed until noon making the the chances for getting caught in thunderstorms even worse. I headed the rest of the way to KC with storms coming up from the south rapidly - this was going to be a race against the weather.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114867&d=1569359535

[GTBradley]

When I got to Grain Valley, east of KC, it started to rain right on queue! So we stayed in the paint shop admiring the Cobra, she looked fantastic!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114868&d=1569359964

[GTBradley]

Once the rain took a break we pulled outside and voilà the color seemed to transform. I liked it even better!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114872&d=1569360031

We loaded it up and I took off to the south towards Kingsville where my sister lives and my family would be gathering. The clouds looked ominous, but they wouldn't let loose.

[GTBradley]

Once at my sister's house we got the cobra down off the carrier and took some rides up and down a country lane.

This is my daughter Heather and me
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114870&d=1569360010

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114874&d=1569360047

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114873&d=1569360040

[GTBradley]

Back on the trailer and off to Abilene again.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114871&d=1569360021

[GTBradley]

Right after I left all heck broke loose

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114875&d=1569360059

I didn’t have a garage in Abilene, but I was willing to sleep in the suv under a car wash bay for protection if it came to that and it almost did, but the severe storms pulled north of I-70 just before reaching Abilene. I covered her up when the storms seemed to have passed and slept somewhat well. In the morning the storms were still pounding KC but it was all past me. Another car show for more family on Sunday morning and I was headed west again with clear skies and a tailwind.

[GTBradley]

At my brother-in-law’s house this one seemed to be telling me he wanted a ride in the roadster. But he’s an 80 pound six-month-old puppy...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114876&d=1569360069

[GTBradley]

Lots of waves from passerby and a grin on my face all the way home

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114878&d=1569360102

Home once again

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114879&d=1569360119

[GTBradley]

I got back to work the day after getting home in hopes of getting the registration process started the very next week. My goal has been to make it to the final Golden Colorado Super Cruise for this season October 5th.

First up was the wipers, which are required in Colorado.

The tubing supplied from FFR is very hard and I bent my tubing bender on it. My flaring tool was of no use either, even though I just wanted a single flair. I ended up using a punch and hammer. I works well as there is a nice tapper on the punch. I bent the tubing over an air tank of the right diameter. Install, uninstall, install, uninstall...when I had them about right I turned them on and they made a terrible racket. I forgot the Lithium grease - retried and still some unacceptable noise. I reduced the radius of the bend a bit and suddenly they were quiet and working nicely, time to add the wiper arms. One worked fine the other stripped out it's splines immediately. To fix it, I drilled and tapped a chrome screw into the splined shaft through the bottom of the arm cup where it's hard to see.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115627&d=1570504246 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115628&d=1570504256

The radius is difficult to get even without the proper bending tool, but I discovered that the whole thing is impossible to see without laying your head on the engine anyway.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115663&d=1570545635

[GTBradley]

A combination of factors resulted in my neighbor burning his calf on the side pipe during a test ride: I forgot to remind him to step over; the pipe was sticking out 1 1/2" to far; and he was wearing shorts. I got the wedges from Breeze and fixed the angle, but I guess I'm going to buy the heat shields too. Sorry again Brad (neighbor):(

Anybody have recommendations for heat shields?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115629&d=1570504265 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115632&d=1570504301

[GTBradley]

I tried the foam noodles on the knock-offs to keep them from rotating, but not very elegant IMO and they tend to crush over time. Instead I went with the O-rings from Amazon

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115630&d=1570504277

They could fit somewhat tighter, but they seem to work, so I'm going to go with this solution for now

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115631&d=1570504286

[GTBradley]

Setting the ride height is not my favorite task. I set it before paint at 4 1/2" and when it came back it was at 3 1/2". I set it again to 4 1/2" but each time takes multiple rounds of up on the jack pull the wheels set the shocks and reverse...]

[GTBradley]

I avoided dealing with the seats for the longest time, but I finally tackled that task and it wasn't too bad. I used the Breeze brackets and routed the seat heat wires between the plates and out the side toward the trans tunnel. I did cut the carpet for the plates but mounted over the Thermo Tec thinking that this way less vibration might be transmitted to the seat.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115638&d=1570505231 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115639&d=1570505251

[GTBradley]

With the installation of the wheel well panels things worked mostly okay. I ran out of rivet nuts, so I went ahead and used regular rivets. It'll be easy enough to drill out the rivets if I need to remove the panels later.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115633&d=1570504999

The driver's side panel didn't fit as well as I would like. I'm not sure if, or how, I'm going to fill the gap up at the top. Anyone else have this issue? The passenger side fit well at least.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115634&d=1570505009 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115635&d=1570505019

[GTBradley]

I went old school on the fender badges - like everything else on the car a casual observer will see. I believe these went mostly on the FIA 289 cars, but hey, they look good!


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115670&d=1570555052

[GTBradley]

So the nice lady at the DMV gave me a 2-day temp tag to drive the car to the State Patrol in Castle Rock CO for safety inspection (28 miles round-trip). First real drive impression - OMG! did you all know these cars are really fast? I ended up talking for two hours with four troopers and one other customer and having a mini car show. Passed with flying blue colors.

[GTBradley]

Back to the DMV and got another nice lady (after being handed off from the mean one). She gave me a 60-day temp tag and and I was feeling pretty darn good...until I cracked my windshield about two seconds later. I didn't, as you might have guessed, break it with a visor screw. I did however, break it trying to fix the threads for the visor screw, as I couldn't even get the screw started. Very bad design!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115640&d=1570505282

Distraught to say the least, but the next morning I set out to rectify the situation. I researched alternatives to glass and found that the racers replace their glass with Lexan. Drove to a plastics shop in Denver and bought a 3/16” by 4x8 sheet of Makrolon AR-2 (Tuffak). I cut off a piece big enough for the windscreen and laid it under the original glass to trace it. I cut out the new piece with a jigsaw and coarse blade. It leaves a mostly smooth cut on the edge and the curve of the original glass windscreen is adopted because the frame is curved. Very bendy this stuff! Try as I might with my clumsy use of sharp (and dull) tools, I was not able to put a single scratch on it.

This is exceedingly easy to do and I suggest that anyone who wants to try it, go for it! I’ll be selling the other half of my poly-carbonate sheet, so my cost will only be $200.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115641&d=1570505303

[GTBradley]

Success! I met my original objective - I drove the Golden Super Cruise (http://www.goldensupercruise.com/) Saturday night with my new plastic windscreen, and did a canyon drive after that - 80 miles and never once thought about the lack of glass. Love this stuff!

[PrestonT23]

The paint color turned out great! Happy to see that the lexan is working for you, keep up the good work!

[GTBradley]

The paint color turned out great! Happy to see that the lexan is working for you, keep up the good work!
Thanks. I haven’t posted much lately because I’ve been working on finishing touches and enjoying the car. Pictures to come soon.

[KDubU]

I really like that you painted your louvers. Just a personal preference as there is plenty of chrome on these cars anyways and does not cut into the beautiful color.

[GTBradley]

I really like that you painted your louvers. Just a personal preference as there is plenty of chrome on these cars anyways and does not cut into the beautiful color.
Thanks, that’s exactly what I was going for, I even had the painter do a matte finish with the clear coat on the louvers.

[GTBradley]

Went to the track today to see my friend Bob Cowan race.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115982&d=1571016512

[GTBradley]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115985&d=1571016682

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115983&d=1571016654

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115986&d=1571016703

[GTBradley]

Just received a letter from the Colorado Dept of Revenue that the VIN application has been approved! Now I just have to figure out a personalized license plate.

[Papa]

Just received a letter from the Colorado Dept of Revenue that the VIN application has been approved! Now I just have to figure out a personalized license plate.

That's great news! The process seems to have gone pretty smoothly for you. Any pointers you can share? I'll be going through it in a few weeks.

Dave

[Mark Eaton]

GTBradley, Your car looks great and I have enjoyed reading you thread. Thanks for posting, you've go me second guessing my planned color scheme.

Mark

[GTBradley]

So this guy walks up Sunday while I was at the track and compliments me on the car - says his name is David Uhl..."Thanks and nice to meet you" right?. He said he is a painter, so I look him up later...wow! I had no idea who I was talking to:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116013&d=1571062937

https://www.uhlstudios.com/artwork/collections/historical-works/snake-oil/

[GTBradley]

That's great news! The process seems to have gone pretty smoothly for you. Any pointers you can share? I'll be going through it in a few weeks.

Dave
Yeah, don't break your glass!

Other than that follow everything you said to me. It's all been straight forward, just a lot of trips to the DMV and a couple to the State Patrol. They will give you a two day temp tag to go to the inspection just don't go to get it until you are within the 2 two day window of your appointment - which you set on-line, BTW.

[GTBradley]

GTBradley, Your car looks great and I have enjoyed reading you thread. Thanks for posting, you've go me second guessing my planned color scheme.

Mark
Thanks. I saw Ken Miles' car at the Shelby American Museum in Boulder, Colorado and said "I like that". Later I dumbed it down to "what will make people remember that car they saw back in the 60's, the one that made them think "I'm gonna have that car some day".

[PeteMeindl]

Just received a letter from the Colorado Dept of Revenue that the VIN application has been approved! Now I just have to figure out a personalized license plate.

Awesome news, GT!

[Papa]

Yeah, don't break your glass!

Other than that follow everything you said to me. It's all been straight forward, just a lot of trips to the DMV and a couple to the State Patrol. They will give you a two day temp tag to go to the inspection just don't go to get it until you are within the 2 two day window of your appointment - which you set on-line, BTW.

Cool. All my paperwork is filled out and ready to go. When my car gets back next week, I'll need to install the Simpsons and it should be ready to inspect. I'll take the required pictures and add them to the packet, but that should be all I need to do. My DMV is in Kiowa, forty-five minutes away, so "a lot of trips" is going to be a pain. Not to mention that the Elbert County DMV isn't open on Fridays.

Did you get a two-day temp tag for both trips the CSP in Castle Rock?

Dave

[GTBradley]

Two of the trips were really not necessary. The first was early on to get info that I already had access to on-line. The second was to pick up the two-day tag. I went in late on a Friday to get it for my Tuesday CSP appointment and was told to come back Monday - what they do if you have a Monday morning appointment with the CSP, I don’t know. I have only been to the CSP once so far, when they call soon for the VIN plate attachment I’ll go on my 60-day tag. BTW, the DMV did not offer the 60-day tag (actually written for 58 days) I asked for it once the paperwork was complete. I’m not even sure it’s officially supposed to be done - maybe a box of sprinkle doughnuts would help.

So you could set your CSP appointment on-line and then go in to the DMV the day before the appointment to get the paperwork done, pay sales tax and get your two-day tag at the same time. The next day do the safety inspection appointment at the CSP and drive right back to the DMV with your approval paperwork and ask for the 60-day tag then. That would ideally cut it to two DMV visits and one CSP visit in two days. Technically, you could do all those in the same day, but that would be tight. Once the approval comes, the point I’m at now, you need to go to a special location for having the VIN plate affixed, I think mine might be in Golden. Then back to the DMV for the final paperwork and to pay the registration fee, plus another temp tag. This is the time to request the personalized plates. The license plates will come in the mail a month or so later.

[Aircontroller]

Howdy!

What kind of garage flooring company did you go with there? Thanks!


Agree w/ Edwardb on the engine stand... you won't need it for the jobs ahead of you.

The Coyote comes bolted to a pretty stout wood cradle assembly from Ford. The crate/box framing is just tacked to it with a zillion nails.
99084

Some careful work with a prybar will get rid of the 2x4's, and you'll have a really nice cradle in minutes. Lift the engine up and set it on a furniture dolly and you're good to go.
99085

I installed the oil pan with the engine hanging from the hoist. Just follow the safety rules and DON'T GET UNDER THE LOAD. It's not a bad job. When it's hanging there you'll need to take some measurements and do some carpentry on the Ford wood cradle. Lower the engine back down, and start on clutch/transmission.
99086

[GTBradley]

Well that figures, the Colorado State Patrol called this morning. They say I can come in now to get my VIN plate installed...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116606&d=1571930715

[GTBradley]

Saturday was the perfect day. I got my VIN plate installed and drove all over the front range plaines. Including dropping in on Dave(papa) to to see his beautiful new Cobra.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116762&d=1572193571

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116763&d=1572193586

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116760&d=1572193536

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116761&d=1572193554

[GTBradley]

It snowed all day today so I spent time on the car. I got my Cobra nose, trunk and steering wheel badges installed. I committed fully as I did use the pins and push on speed nuts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116774&d=1572223977

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116773&d=1572223965

[Papa]

Saturday was the perfect day. I got my VIN plate installed and drove all over the front range plaines. Including dropping in on Dave(papa) to to see his beautiful new Cobra.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116761&d=1572193554

Nice picture on your way out of my neighborhood!

[GTBradley]

Nice picture on your way out of my neighborhood!

Isn't it? I even pulled over to take it. Too bad there are so many bugs on the windscreen. Oh well, you can’t have a clean car and drive it too.

[GTBradley]

I spent some time this week looking at options for dressing up the radiator. I like the look of the honeycomb product (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006K8IP6M/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_dlXJFb2BHT7VZ) from Allstar/Amazon, but I wasn't sure how to attach it and more importantly how to remove it later for easy cleaning and replacement. I painted the radiator screen with black spray paint and zip tied it through the fins of the radiator just to try it out. It works great and looks nice. I finally landed on some Z bar from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCENJPI/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_u5HVDbT8WM7W3) to hold it in place.

First I removed the rivets holding the lower radiator shroud

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117049&d=1572740222 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117048&d=1572740208

...then put the z bar under the lower radiator shroud and riveted it back in.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117047&d=1572740194 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117046&d=1572740178

It's hard to see the z bar but it's there

[GTBradley]

The idea was to have a channel for the honeycomb (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006K8IP6M/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_dlXJFb2BHT7VZ) to be held in place and be able to remove the top channel easily to clean or replace it without a lot of work. The honeycomb product by itself doesn't look very good on the edges and it's hard to cut with a perfectly straight line.

Edit: as it turns out, the Honeycomb bends enough to come out without removing the Z-channel and only takes seconds. The product I used was "Allstar ALL30158 19" High x 26" Wide x 1/2 Thick Honeycomb Design Radiator Screen"
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117041&d=1572740078
145000

[GTBradley]

The z bar is simply bolted in across the top with the two bolts holding the Breeze radiator shroud in place


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117044&d=1572740124

[GTBradley]

So now everything looks clean and is simple to remove when needed


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117043&d=1572740113 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117042&d=1572740102

If you're wondering about the sides, it turns out the radiator fins are recessed from the side tanks and that captures it quite well. I took a high-speed test run this afternoon and the grill protection stayed in place.

[cv2065]

Agree with you on the honeycomb edges. Looks like you came up with a great idea to finish it off. Great pictures of your drive. Sun on the horizon is nice. I can't wait to have the same view!

[GTBradley]

Agree with you on the honeycomb edges. Looks like you came up with a great idea to finish it off. Great pictures of your drive. Sun on the horizon is nice. I can't wait to have the same view!

It looks like you’ll be there soon enough. I don’t know if you’ve ever driven one before, but I hadn’t and it is truly thrilling. It’s worth the wait.

[Bob Cowan]

Thanks. I saw Ken Miles' car at the Shelby American Museum in Boulder, Colorado and said "I like that". Later I dumbed it down to "what will make people remember that car they saw back in the 60's, the one that made them think "I'm gonna have that car some day".

Nailed it! :)

[GTBradley]

This is for those guys out there that have a loud radiator fan and want to quiet things down a bit. I hear lots of other engines use this very thing, not just the Coyote.

I have a real problem with the decibel level of my Factory Five supplied radiator fan, actually it comes from Maradyne. It appears to be a very good and capable cooling fan, but controlled by the Coyote computer, it ends up running all the time at full power. At 225 watts it amounts to some significant energy wasted too, especially considering this thing runs even at highway speeds - what is the sense in that? Once it's on it won't shut off even if the engine gets cool, not until the ignition is shut off. Mine would typically turn on no later than 80 degrees C, and sometimes as low as 75. The thermostat hasn't even opened at those temps!

This is an unfortunate design and reportedly it is this way because Ford was concerned that they didn't know what conditions these crate engines would be operating under, so they decided to err on the side of caution, as in, turn it on when the engine is on, run it at full speed and make it stay on. I know it is an inferred temperature that the computer determines based on sensors in the engine, but that fan has only an indirect relationship to the engine temp. What the fan affects directly is the radiator and keeping the radiator cool obviously keeps the engine cool. So why not control the fan based on radiator temperature? Or better yet the coolant temp just before it re-enters the engine?

What I did to address this was to install a coolant sensor in the lower radiator return hose and fed that information to a Pulse Width Modulated fan controller. BTW, Maradyne makes the only one I could find that operates at half-speed and kicks into high when needed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117885&d=1574393092117899

Controller part number MFA136. Sensor adapter is from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FY3A2PG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) Check what your radiator hose size is though, as I’ve heard from others that they needed a 40mm adapter.





https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117884&d=1574389548 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138230&d=1606240089

https://youtu.be/CNsz9IMQhdk https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138229&d=1606240061

The controller mounted nicely to the right side inner wheel panel (elephant ear) and the sensor wires were routed along the back of the fan. The controller is currently powered by the Coyote fan wire, but I'm considering changing to the battery. The thing is, the controller will run for an additional minute after the ignition is shut of at low speed, but not if powered the way I have it now.

In the video you'll see LEDs on the controller. At first the red LED is the only one lit and that means that ignition power has been turned on. After a few seconds the green LED lights up and you can hear the fan blowing at half speed. The center LED is yellow and it will light up when the fan is running at full speed, but that didn't happen in the video.

The fan runs significantly less than it used to and it runs at half speed when it does in these cool Fall temps. I set the on temp at 90ish degrees C, which means the fan doesn't come on at all at low driving speeds and in 50 to 60 degree F weather. It will come on when idling for extended periods, but it is quiet and very acceptable to me now. I love hearing the the pipes at idle rather than an industrial sounding fan.

[GTBradley]

I'm nearing the end of my build thread, as I really don't have much more to add, either to the thread or the car. I know these projects go on forever, but I'll go ahead and say here that the car is finished. I think what I'll do next is post a graduation thread.

It was almost exactly 11 months ago that I started this thread. I received the kit the day after Christmas and started on inventory the first of January. The first start was late April and go-kart in early May. Delivery to paint in mid-June and pick up from paint mid-September. The licensing stretched out for more than a month, but I got my personalized plate (see my avatar) on the same day as the Ford V Ferrari movie debut. I declared the car complete, nick-named it Miles and proudly drove it to the Shelby American Collection Museum in Boulder and then the Ford V Ferrari movie just last Saturday. It creates a crowd of the friendliest people almost everywhere I stop. This whole thing has been a whirlwind and I can't believe what I own now.

Thanks to everyone who posted here and for all the technical input, encouragement and compliments. I don't know where I'd be right now if it weren't for you guys - certainly not on the road. Don't hesitate to contact me if you new builders reading this need any help.

See you all on the road and at the car shows.

Bradley.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117865&d=1574383615

[PeteMeindl]

Congrats, Bradley! What a beautiful car - you've done a great job!

[GTBradley]

Congrats, Bradley! What a beautiful car - you've done a great job!
Thanks Pete, that mans a lot coming from a guy as meticulous as you.

[Straversi]

I love the car, the nick-name and the license plate. Well done.
-Steve

[Papa]

I love the license plate! Very creative. The car looks great in your pictures, but having seen it in person, the pictures don't do it justice. Looking forward to getting together for a drive this summer.

Dave

[Boydster]

Right On Bradley! Congratulations on a nice build and a beautiful car. I like that you found a different way to do some things... unique and original. Nice work.

[GTBradley]

Thanks Steve, Dave and Boyd. I’m honored to to be associated with builders such as yourselves.

[GTBradley]

The continuation of this build thread will be about upgrades and mods that are post build-completion. My first one is the license plate mod, I know it isn't really an upgrade, but I wanted to get in here as I've seen this done a lot on the forums, but never really saw the detail I wanted.

I decided to do the plate cut at the top because the Colorado state name is at the bottom. If it hadn't been, I probably would have drilled the hole in the plate at the bottom for the handle.

I started with a template of the light box where it contacts the trunk lid.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119103&d=1576632899 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119101&d=1576632878

I don't remember if the holes were pre-drilled from FF or if the painter drilled them, but they were too low, so I made a template from cardboard for drilling new ones higher up.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119100&d=1576632865 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119099&d=1576632857

After mounting the light in the new mounting holes, I measured for the depth of cut I would need in the license plate and also the width. I did, ultimately, widen the cut beyond what is shown here

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119097&d=1576632802 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119095&d=1576632779

[GTBradley]

To mount the plate with the original holes you also need an extension bracket. It doesn't have to be pretty as it won't be seen.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119094&d=1576632772 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119092&d=1576632742

I squared the holes so I could use some press in plastic anchors for the mounting screws

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119091&d=1576632648 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119090&d=1576632615

The bracket extension is riveted to the original bracket with some wide head rivets. This picture is out of sequence. It's of the bracket before the square holes were made.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119093&d=1576632751

Next, I estimated how much of the light lens would need to be cut. What I didn't realize was that the light housing would need to be modified a bit, as well. I used a Dremel to cut the lens and a file edge to modify the light housing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119089&d=1576632602 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119088&d=1576632590

[GTBradley]

It's a nice work-around, though I still wish I had the new trunk lid that doesn't need this level of modification.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119112&d=1576639442

I just wish he were alive to see it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119113&d=1576639688

[ydousurf]

GTBradley,

I've seen some really cool license plates in my days and yours rates right in top, with a such a really cool and clever way to convey a message using only 7 letters & numbers. Nicely done!

Dj

[GTBradley]

GTBradley,

I've seen some really cool license plates in my days and yours rates right in top, with a such a really cool and clever way to convey a message using only 7 letters & numbers. Nicely done!

Dj
Thanks, I only thought for 4 or 5 months before coming up with it. I had a long list with some really dumb stuff on it and a good short list, but this one won out in the end. My other Shelby plate was going to be IOUSHLB.

[GTBradley]

My floor mats were moving around too much and I wanted a way to hold them in place like modern cars do. Someone recently posted these locking floor mat anchors (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BT7VYGL/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_k-e.DbCCR4SJE) so I bought some and here's the results:

I decided the best place for these anchors was on the vertical face of the floor at the drop down. I marked the places I wanted to mount the anchors permanently in the floor mats.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119206&d=1576815917 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119207&d=1576815926

I choose an appropriately size and old socket that I could use to heat up and burn holes on the mat. I saw this trick on a youtube video that Papa shared some time ago and I wanted to try it. The socket is just a bit bigger than the inner race of the bottom portion of the mat anchor. This is a nifty trick and beats the heck out of scissors or a knife.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119208&d=1576815934
https://youtu.be/LgVME-uol4Q

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119210&d=1576815947 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119211&d=1576815954

[GTBradley]

The end result is very nice and looks just like professional mats. The anchors have a pin that pushes sideways into the existing carpet. I pushed them a little deeper and the pin went in to the Thermotec. They are solidly in place.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119212&d=1576815973 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119213&d=1576815982

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119214&d=1576815989 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119217&d=1576818494

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119216&d=1576816008

[Papa]

Nice job, Bradley. I plan to do the same task with the same anchors this weekend.

Dave

[GTBradley]

Nice job, Bradley. I plan to do the same task with the same anchors this weekend.

Dave
Hands down easiest/most effective thing I’ve done on the car, Dave.

[cv2065]

Hands down easiest/most effective thing I’ve done on the car, Dave.

That was cool. I didn't see that on Dave's thread. Thanks!

[GTBradley]

He hasn’t done it yet, though he probably is working on it at this very moment (instead of cruising on 65 degree day DAVE:cool:). He did the legwork and posted it here and there, though.

[Papa]

He hasn’t done it yet, though he probably is working on it at this very moment (instead of cruising on 65 degree day DAVE:cool:). He did the legwork and posted it here and there, though.

No driving yet. I'll have a ten-day temp tag on Monday and you better believe I'll be on the road if the weather is anything close to what we have today. My tasks for this weekend are to install the anchors in my floor mats and to polish and install my aluminum spats from VeryCoolParts.com (http://verycoolparts.com/). The spats are a very nice heavy aluminum and formed with an English Wheel to the shape of the MK4.

Dave

[GTBradley]

That’s good news Dave. I did buy the clear spats and will put them on today. I’ll be interested to see how your metal ones work out. I don’t do much driving on your type of road, so in 1000 miles I really haven’t had and chips show up yet, even unprotected - I’m hoping the cheap ones will do the trick.

[GTBradley]

I've decided the driveshaft safety loop is worth the effort, but I also decided to do the extra work to install a light-weight version that is intirely above the suspension. It was lot of work, but that's a good thing for me because I like doing this kind of thing.

I bought the Heavy Duty Universal Bolt-On Driveshaft / Safety Loop Kit (https://speedmaster79.com/Heavy-Duty-Universal-Bolt-On-Driveshaft-Tail-Shaft-Loop-Safety-Loop-Kit) from Speedmaster for $20. It needed to be cut off and bent, but this metal is fairly pliable and can be formed easily.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119271&d=1576900163 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119267&d=1576899919

I coated it with Por15 for longevity.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119268&d=1576899960

Once mounted I don't see any reason it should ever have to be removed, not even for pulling the eng/trans. An added benefit is that this configuration only weighs 5 lbs.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119270&d=1576899986 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119269&d=1576899972

[GTBradley]

This won't qualify for an upgrade post, but is more of a repair post. I really didn’t expect this to happen so soon

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126362&d=1586809767

[Papa]

Oh man! What happened?

[GTBradley]

I have been happily driving my new Cobra Mk4 roadster every chance I get. I check it over on a regular basis, but really haven’t found any abnormal wear items or issues of real concern. The Coyote engine is rock solid and everything else works great. So I’ve started to forget about the possibility of a breakdown...until Monday when my clutch cable snapped! Luckily, my long country drive out in the “boonies” Sunday was uneventful, but the next day I drove about 15 miles to a tuner shop and when I was backing out of my parking spot I heard a loud pop and the car lurched to a dead stop, the clutch pedal all floppy.

Gotta give it to my insurance company, Hagerty, they’re a little more expensive than others, but they came through for me. I had a flatbed tow truck in thirty minutes and I was home in no time at no cost.

If you look closely at the picture you can probably figure out that it was my own fault the cable broke.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119494&d=1577404138

[Papa]

Bummer, Bradley. I know you had mentioned clutch effort back when, but it sounded like you had it worked out. Were you using the FFR provided cable or the Ford part?

[GTBradley]

I was using the FFR supplied cable, Dave. I believe that is a Ford part, yes?

The problem was, I put the two nuts on the cable on the back side of the throw-out fork and for some unknown reason I put one on the front side too. If I had given it any thought at all I would have realized that the cable couldn’t pivot in the fork like that. When I saw it I was like “What the...” and “who was the idiot that did that?”

Anyway, I ordered a couple of Mike Forte’s improved clutch cables and will forgo the clutch cable which is adjustable at the fork end in favor of the firewall adjuster type.

No driving for now, but it is below my preferred 50 degrees for the foreseeable future anyway. More to come...

[Papa]

I was using the FFR supplied cable, Dave. I believe that is a Ford part, yes?

The problem was, I put the two nuts on the cable on the back side of the throw-out fork and for some unknown reason I put one on the front side too. If I had given it any thought at all I would have realized that the cable couldn’t pivot in the fork like that. When I saw it I was like “What the...” and “who was the idiot that did that?”

Anyway, I ordered a couple of Mike Forte’s improved cable clutch cables and will forgo the adjustable clutch cable at the fork end in favor of the firewall adjuster. No driving for now, but it is below my preferred 50 degrees for the foreseeable future anyway. More to come...

I was referring to the "upgraded" Ford part I've seen referenced in several threads. Sounds like you have a plan. I need to check how I did mine now.

Dave

[GTBradley]

Right? It makes me wonder how I did a number of things. I mean, why didn’t I recognize that mistake before I did it? Oh well, it really wasn’t a bad experience and the tow truck truck driver was an interesting guy.

[GTBradley]

1000 mile oil change was a non issue. Oil drain plug had what appeared to be an expected amount of metallic sludge coating it. I bought Motorcraft 5W-20 synthetic blend since that is what is recommended by Ford. Side note, it sure appears from the oil isle at Oreilly's that oil is moving toward full-synthetic. My oil was way down in the corner where I had trouble finding it.

I took my fomoco C336B oil filter that came with the engine install kit with me to the parts store - they didn't sell it and couldn't cross reference it. Edwardb to the rescue! I googled the fomoco filter and factory-five-coyote and voilà, there was Paul's post on the subject regarding oil filters including pictures! Thanks again Paul.

I installed the Mobil 1 M1-113 oil filter and added my oil - 7 and a half quarts to be exact before running the engine.

[Pat427]

Which clutch adjustment product are you going to use at the firewall?

[Papa]

Pat,

I know you didn't ask me, but here is the one I used.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002L1IZKS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dave

[Pat427]

Dave,

Believe me, I was going to. But I thought I'd bother someone else for a change :)


Pat,

I know you didn't ask me, but here is the one I used.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002L1IZKS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dave

[GTBradley]

CHIEFS! Sorry, crazy game.

It’s basically that, Pat. It’s one that Mike Forte carries, but I don’t think he has it on his website. Just tell him you need it. I spent $105 total. Two cables ($50) one tensioner($35) and shipping.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120453&d=1578793731

[Papa]

CHIEFS! Sorry, crazy game.



You aren't kidding about a crazy game! I thought the Chiefs were done five minutes into the game. Insane comeback.

[D02G]

CHIEFS! Sorry, crazy game.

It’s basically that, Pat. It’s one that Mike Forte carries, but I don’t think he has it on his website.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120453&d=1578793731

Do you have any pictures of it installed?

[GTBradley]

You aren't kidding about a crazy game! I thought the Chiefs were done five minutes into the game. Insane comeback.
Right? That's kinda how the season has gone. I need a nap!

[GTBradley]

Do you have any pictures of it installed?
Sure thing. The tensioner tips out at the top under the weight of the cable, so I reinstalled the screw that held the FFR cable in place, however I used a longer screw and a washer. It worked perfectly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120503&d=1578873888

[GTBradley]

You have to remove the rubber grommet and file down the tabs before installing the tensioner on the Ford cable

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120451&d=1578793705 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120452&d=1578793720

[GTBradley]

Chiefs 51, Texans 31 bring on the Titans!

With that out of the way I got a few things done. I received my engraved FFR VN plate back and installed it on the passenger foot box. I also found a place to mount a couple of the FFR badges

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120511&d=1578881168 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120512&d=1578881174

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120513&d=1578881180

[Bart@SnakeFarm]

Thanks. I saw Ken Miles' car at the Shelby American Museum in Boulder, Colorado and said "I like that". Later I dumbed it down to "what will make people remember that car they saw back in the 60's, the one that made them think "I'm gonna have that car some day".

You told me in the beginning that you were looking for the Ken Miles look. Did we get it?

[GTBradley]

You told me in the beginning that you were looking for the Ken Miles look. Did we get it?
Pretty darn close! Technically, Ken’s number 98 is a little darker - I saw it in person at the museum. But considering how many people say they love the color, well, that’s just fine by me! Cuz I love it too!
120599


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117872&d=1574383698

[GTBradley]

We had a nice little neighborhood cars and coffee Sunday. It topped 74 degrees (and promptly dropped below zero the next night) and was perfect weather for a car show. 17 cars wasn’t too bad for just the neighborhood.


https://youtu.be/kara0HCjjQ8

[Papa]

Sorry I couldn't make it. I get my car legal and promptly have minor surgery on my left foot making it impossible to clutch. Maybe next time. We're sure to get a couple more warm days before spring.

Dave

[GTBradley]

Yeah, too bad you missed it - bunch of nice guys. Hope the foot is better now. We all had such a good time we’re thinking about a monthly thing.

[GTBradley]

Had nice drive along the Front Range Mountains to Monument for lunch today

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125080&d=1585430147

[GTBradley]

and by the way, I’d just like to say cheers to Russ Thompson!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125081&d=1585430163

[GTBradley]

For several reasons I decided to go with a Whitby soft top:

- The main reason was the lift-the-dot fasteners that allow me to use a real tonneau cover. I wanted to be able to drive with it unzipped down the middle and have half the cockpit still covered.
- I wanted the look of the 1965 cars with the lift-the-dot pegs around the body
- The price for the top is half that of the FF Rodtop - $2149 for the Whitby top and the tonneau.
- The visibility the top affords through it's expansive rear window
- The function of the door windows

I know the top doesn't look as refined as the Rodtop, but for me that's a good thing, because this top looks like what cars had 'back in the day'. Plus, this is strictly for rain and cold weather.
The tonneau however, will be used extensively. Leaving it attached on the back deck of the car with two or one occupant makes it supper easy to close up when going into a restaurant, etc.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125092&d=1585434344

Installation time-lapse video:


https://youtu.be/rcExQMiJIPk

[GTBradley]

This is the hardware that gets installed to attach to the windscreen frame. It is secure and easy to use.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125094&d=1585434664

I had to buy new wind wing brackets from ********** (https://www.**********accessories.com/p-328-wind-wings-hardware.aspx) to make the wings operate with the windows installed but they seem to work just fine. The visor brackets work with the top if you turn them upside-down.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125093&d=1585434659

Visibility out the back window is excellent and my dash mounted mirror works fine as is.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125089&d=1585434142

Seeing out of this top is not unencumbered especially when looking left and right, but I just have to dip my head a bit and I can see everything I need to.


https://youtu.be/WBR_fOO8jDM

[GTBradley]

A major effort in this install was the roll bar. I kind of thought it was too tall looking anyway, but I had never considered uninstalling and cutting it down. As it turns out, I had to, as the top did not fit with the FFR supplied roll bar. Fortunately, you can cut the roll bar down by 3/4" without having to re-weld the attach points and that was enough to make the top work. The shorter roll bar is still safe for me and someone taller by an inch or two and it looks better in my opinion, too.

These are the studs across the back deck. I had lost some of my hardware and had to wait on Amazon to resupply some lift-the-dots (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FBI9U70/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to finish along the front of the cockpit. They are the same as what Whitby uses. The tool needed to make the holes in the top can be expensive, but I found one that works fine for this propose and is only 28 bucks on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LB3B1BX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125082&d=1585430177

[GTBradley]

The tonneau was easy enough to install, but isn't without it's own issues. The lift-the-dot studs are already placed where the soft top needs them and so you have to place the holes in the tonneau where it falls on the studs. This results in them not being placed perfectly symmetrical around the cover, but that isn't something that's stands out. The one other issue is the steering wheel pocket on the cover, it pulls against the wheel a bit and is taller than it needs to be. It's close enough, but I may have an upholsterer expand and shorten it a bit. This will relieve some pressure that cases a slight wrinkle in the driver's side and make it fit the steering wheel's height better.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125104&d=1585438986 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125105&d=1585438993

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125103&d=1585438979

If you are going to install the Whitby top I can tell you that it is very high quality material and the craftsmanship is too! I can also say that this not a terribly difficult thing to do but it does take time and patience, especially considering the holes being drilled in the body, you can't afford a dumb mistake here.

The things I would do different would be to protect the paint in a larger area with tape or something - I have a couple of extra scratches that I'd rather have avoided, though they are minor. And, be extra certain of the widow door feral placement. My passenger side window takes extra effort to get the pins to slide in because they are ever so slightly too far apart.

[GTBradley]

I got the Coyote professionally tuned last week and am very happy with the results. I've only been able to drive it for maybe an hour and a half over two drives, but the throttle response is better and it feels like a lot more power in the 2000 to 4500 RPM range.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125486&d=1585863843

Dyno results say 401.05 hp to the wheels. About 20 hp more than before the tune at max, but at least 40 hp more in the lower RPM ranges.

I had to go back a few days later and couldn't pass up the chance to get some cool shots of this amazing auto shop.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125489&d=1585863877

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125490&d=1585863896

[PeteMeindl]

Wow! Yeah, Bradley, that shop looks fantastic. Of course, your car is the star of the show! ;)

[GTBradley]

Well, of course! Actually, no, this place jammed with classics and what a showroom!


125506

[GTBradley]

I broke my seat sometime ago. I don't know when because I didn't notice it until I decided to add some foam cushion to the FFR leather roadster seats. I have the Breeze brackets and with them you get a fiberboard that extends the seat in the thigh area. I figured the fiberboard wouldn't last, especially since my bull-in-a-china-shop sixteen-year-old son is constantly climbing in and out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125582&d=1585954747 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125583&d=1585954764

I decided to replace it with some plywood I got at HD. I applied waterproofing to it first. For the additional padding I used .5 inch high density foam cushion from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ACFGGPK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125584&d=1585954776

The seats do feel better, but they feel like there is the slightest crown to them now. I had to peel back some of the leather where it was glued back when I installed the Cobra Heat seat heaters and didn't really want to do that again, but I might still go back and put the foam pad on top of the seat heaters instead to to see if that makes the crown go away.

[Fixit]

My "masonite" panels lasted about a grand total of 4 minutes after install! Literally the 1st pivot of my oversize azz (L or R cheek, depending upon the seat) to get out and SNAP!

I replaced them with 1/8" aluminum sheet from an old roadsign.

[GTBradley]

My "masonite" panels lasted about a grand total of 4 minutes after install! Literally the 1st pivot of my oversize azz (L or R cheek, depending upon the seat) to get out and SNAP!

I replaced them with 1/8" aluminum sheet from an old roadsign.

LOL!

I thought about the aluminum, I was afraid I might bend it, but then again I could break the plywood; however, I did choose a wood that is less brittle. We’ll have to compare after a few thousand miles and a few more pounds.

[GTBradley]

HotRodBlinkn


I stumbled across Skidd's post for the self-cancelling turn signal (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?24625-DIY-SolidState-Arduino-Self-Canceling-Turn-Signals)a short time ago and got very interested (being a RPi nerd at heart and all), so asked him if I could try it out and he said he had a prototype ready to go. well, long story short, this thing is fantastic! Nice work Shane.


It's easy to install, has virtually no moving parts (one could say the relays are moving parts) and is working flawlessly so far. It's has some nifty features too.


I had originally installed the FFR toggle switch and was attempting to retrain my brain to turn off the signals manually. Resounding success with that! I only left them on 50% of the time and on average only four additional miles past the turn I initially needed them for.


So, I jumped at the chance to give the HotRodBlinkn, self cancelling, turn signals a try.


I had to come up with an electrical drawing that would work for the Mk4 standard signal setup - please forgive the poor penmanship, I drew it up on the fly and haven't had a chance to clean it up. I also needed a momentary double throw toggle switch (ON)OFF(ON). I opted for the one at O'reilly Auto (https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/cole-hersee-3171/agriculture-hd-parts---accessories-19818/fleet---heavy-duty-20088/battery---electrical-20106/toggle-switch--universal--18224/5041f9f16b0e/cole-hersee-toggle-switch/59024108/2622618?q=toggle+switch+%28universal%29&pos=157) because I could get it quick, but it's more expensive than the one at Radio Shack (https://www.radioshack.com/collections/switches/products/12vdc-6p-dpdt-on-off-on-momentary-toggle-switch-20a?variant=20332072453) (the existing flashers toggle switch works as is). Other than that, all I needed were spade connectors, zip ties and shrink tubing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125868&d=1586314460

[GTBradley]

First, I made two jumpers to take the place of the two can flashers currently in the Ron Francis fuse block. The fuses that currently supply the flashers and signals are already in the fuse block, so I was set there.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125480&d=1585863561

Second, I attached the relays that came with the self-cancelling turn signals to the panel that hold the fuse block. BTW, typing "self-cancelling turn signals" takes too long, I'll do "SCTS" from now on, AKA HotRodBlinkn.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125482&d=1585863580

I also attached the SCTS module to the fuse block bracket. In the picture below you can see the two jumpers where the can flashers would be, they plug right in.In the foreground left side you see the two new relays. I like them because they click like most cars do. To the right of them is the SCTS module. What you can't see is the heart of the system, the IR sensor, it gets mounted to the cross member and points directly at the steering shaft. In the picture you can see the steering shaft is painted flat black on just the part that faces down when the wheels are pointed straight ahead. The IR sensor sees the black and waits for it to change to silver and back to black again. What an elegant and simple solution. It is nothing short of brilliant!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125485&d=1585863609 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125483&d=1585863589

The module is hardly noticeable

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125484&d=1585863599

Here I'm testing the module without the self cancel function because the IR sensor isn't installed yet. Believe it or not, I can hear the relay clicking when at idle.


https://youtu.be/kUgg4JnL1y8

[GTBradley]

I love this thing! It worked almost immediately. I did have a bad connection in the module I had to fix, but that took all of 20 minutes to find and repair. It is amazing how satisfying it is to do this mod. Mostly because I don't have to think about my signals at all anymore. And best of all, my signals are never left on after the turn any more. Plus, I still have the simplicity of the toggle actuator.

But the proof is in the pudding, right? I donned my son's GoPro camera and took off for a test drive:


https://youtu.be/_DxBn5en8fk


Thanks to Shane Powell (Skidd) for letting me be a beta tester and try one of his prototype modules. This thing made my day!

[skidd]

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_FfUAkN9pYw/VlZbFZZj8vI/AAAAAAABIRs/VJ0He0IXYu8/s1600/12274462_10208309204513094_1422848551988555614_n.j pg


Might have to put this quote into my sig
"What an elegant and simple solution. It is nothing short of brilliant!"
Flattery will get you EVERYWHERE!! :)

[GTBradley]

It’s really not flattery, but it is getting me down the road without looking like a bluehair with a signal stuck on.

Hey there’s a slogan for you... “Don’t be a bluehair! Use HotRodBlinkn self-cancelling turn signals.”

[GTBradley]

The standard flow valve that comes with the Coyote KRC power steering pump makes the steering over boosted and I've needed to change it ever since the car hit the road. At highway speeds you just think about changing lanes and voilà, you're there, and don't even consider looking for that thing that just fell between the seats...

At the advice of an Edwardb post on the subject, I bought the KRC part number 25304000 (https://www.krcpower.com/ecommerce/part-krc-25304000.asp), which is their lowest boost valve they have for this pump. The valve is on the bottom and not too hard to get to.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126365&d=1586810483 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126366&d=1586810501

Don't be like me and but the plunger in first, it won't work that way :mad:. The spring goes in first.
In this picture the old one is on the right. The new valve still has the cap on it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126367&d=1586810528

Pretty easy to do and it doesn't actually dump out all the oil either, but you do still need a catch pan. I primed the system by turning the steering wheel while on the jack stands lock to lock, first with the engine not running, then running.

The feel is much better now and much more manageable on the highway - not so twitchy.

[Fixit]

Thanks Paul & Bradley... another $30 poof-gone!
(I've wondered about lessening the assist on #9365, changing lanes if you sneeze is not good)

[GTBradley]

Thanks Paul & Bradley... another $30 poof-gone!
(I've wondered about lessening the assist on #9365, changing lanes if you sneeze is not good)
$40 with shipping...poof, poof!

Think of it this way though, all those beer cans you so dutifully emptied and recycled went into making that little valve.

[GTBradley]

I bought the Hunziker shoes and have had a chance to drive a couple of hours over 3 or 4 trips. They are really well made; they are thin enough for the pedals, have a nice rigid sole and look great. My one concern is for hot weather as there is no venting in the shoes I got, but so far so good in spring temperatures.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126603&d=1587083006

[PeteMeindl]

Looks good, Bradley! Also good point about being thin enough for the pedals - not every shoe can fit with our pedal situation, that's for sure!

[GTBradley]

That’s mostly true, Pete. Since I bought the AC pedals from Mike Forte and really don’t have an issue with my wide shoes either, but I have size 9 feet, so that’s the biggest advantage.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127290&d=1587946521

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127291&d=1587946545

[GTBradley]

Okay, so I’ve been very curious about my weight, self conscious, you might even say. My car’s weight, not mine. I’d rather not talk about the added weight I’ve put on since this stay at home thing went into effect.:o

I didn’t really want to spend the money on four-wheel professional scales for corner weighting, but I did want to know how close I got on the corner weights. I also wanted to know how much the car weighed total as I splurged for things like breeze seat brackets and 40 pounds of Thermo Tec in the cockpit. I also removed the glass windshield and replaced it with plastic. I bought the Coyote partly because it is a lightweight engine. So while not freaking out about every pound, I always had it in the back of my mind and avoided a lot of things that would make my car heavier than it needed to be.

I bought a cheap scale capable of 660 pounds that had good ratings indicating it was accurate:

660 pound scale (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BURKQNW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_QgUPEb6HV6FXG)

I checked the scale for repeatability, both with my weight and the car’s. I figure if it gives the same number over and over it has to be a decent scale.

I am pleased to say that I stayed below 2300 pounds, which was my objective: 2277 is the car’s weight with ¾ tank and no driver.

[GTBradley]

My setup was to place three wheels on concrete blocks and the fourth on the scale - all had doubled up plastic between the tires and block or scale. The scale has adjustable feet so the height of it can match the blocks and compensate for any unevenness of the floor. The plastic is important so the tires and shocks won’t resist settling in. The front wheels are turned left and right and the front and back are pulled up and down smoothly to avoid damage to the scale. This helps settle the car on it’s shocks and normalize the angle on the rear wheels after it is jacked up and back down. I experimented with this and found the weights are different when the car is not settled in. You can even get small differences in weight if you push down or pull up a small amount on the car after you have it settled in.

Corner weights came out at:
LF 544 RF 546
LR 603 RR 584

I weighed the car four times and got very similar numbers, except when I tried off-center weight on the scale, but even then the numbers were less than 5 percent off.

I’m guessing the LR being 19 pounds heavier than the RR is a result of having only one roll bar?

I guess I’ll leave well enough alone, seeing as how the weight distribution is 48% front and 52% rear. Unless you weight and distribution experts see something wrong with what I did. Please weigh in if you do.:D

[Bob Cowan]

Your cross weight is about perfect, too. I wouldn't touch anything.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I’m guessing the LR being 19 pounds heavier than the RR is a result of having only one roll bar?



No, it's a result of how you have your spring collars adjusted but as Bob said you're setting really good as is and I'd leave it alone!

Jeff

[GTBradley]

No, it's a result of how you have your spring collars adjusted but as Bob said you're setting really good as is and I'd leave it alone!

Jeff
That’s what I suspected, based on what you guys have written about in the past. I understand that the weight on the LR is related mostly on the RF, it’s just that the RF is so close in weight to the LF, so if I were to fix the LR the fronts would be uneven.

Anyway, thanks for the input. And thanks to all the heavyweights who have posted on how to set the car up in the first place. I had to do it three times, but it looks like it paid off.

Bradley

[GTBradley]

Your cross weight is about perfect, too. I wouldn't touch anything.
Great! So when do we hit the track?

[Bob Cowan]

Great! So when do we hit the track?

Next planned event is 16 May, in La Junta. Unless it gets cancelled.

https://nasarockymountain.com/2020-schedule/

[GTBradley]

Took a drive to test out my half tonneau and heater a couple weeks ago. It worked pretty well even on the highway. It brought back memories of my 63 MGB from back in the 70s, albeit 4 times the power, about the same weight and way better handling.:cool:


https://youtu.be/qlkm30aFAOQ

[GTBradley]

I recently found a phone mount that works well with the dash support. It makes navigating much easier:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127528&d=1588290881

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127527&d=1588290837 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127526&d=1588290821

[GTBradley]

I took a trip through Rocky Mountain National Park on Monday to celebrate the graduation of the car. I made a video of it and it came out pretty nice:



https://youtu.be/yEq-DZnCa0w

[TMartinLVNV]

I took a trip through Rocky Mountain National Park on Monday to celebrate the graduation of the car. I made a video of it and it came out pretty nice:



https://youtu.be/yEq-DZnCa0w

Man, that is beautiful! I have to get up there. Thanks for sharing.

[GTBradley]

Let me know when you do, I'll show you around.

[TMartinLVNV]

Let me know when you do, I'll show you around.

That sounds fantastic. I rode a motorcycle for 13 years and put over 60,000 miles on it. I loved doing overnight trips to the Grand Canyon, the national parks in Utah, and northern AZ. I always wanted to do SW Colorado but never made it that far. I plan do with this car. I found that a 500 mile day with lots of stops for sightseeing was about the limit for my butt on the motorcycle. I should be able to do similar numbers in the Roadster. There are some others here in Las Vegas that have already expressed interest in joining me on my planned trips. Have you been through Utah?

In Colorado, I want to see Rocky Mountain National Park, Telluride, Silverton, Durango, Dinosaur National Monument, and whatever the locals have to suggest. Maybe separate trips that are 3 nights in length. One to the SW corner and one to the NW corner. I built this car to drive, not bring to shows or look at in the garage ;)

[GTBradley]

My philosophy as well. In fact, my current project is a spare trunk lid with luggage rack - so I can swap it out when not needed.

I rode my 77 Gold wing motorcycle through RMNP once and on another 3000 mile whirlwind trip To Oshkosh, WI for the air show and then just headed west. Did all the monument stuff through South Dakota and ended up in Yellowstone and back to KC. I much prefer the relative comfort of the roadster and it’s outfitted pretty well for the long trip, though I’d like to investigate lumbar support bladders.

I have not done a car trip to Utah, definitely on the list though. I had planned to drive to London this month, but that’s obviously out now. 500 miles is a good number, especially if getting out a lot to see sites. And don’t even get me started on SW Colorado:eek: amazing! The “million dollar highway” is a must!

[Papa]

Big Thompson Canyon on the way to or from Estes Park and RMNP is a must. The back way from Breckenridge to Keystone around Lake Dillon is a short but fun drive. Durango, Mount Evans Highway (closed this year), all beautiful drives. I want to do a loop from Parker up to the Black Hills to see Mt. Rushmore and then head over to Devil's Tower in Wyoming before heading back home. I think that would be a great three-day trip.

[GTBradley]

Big Thompson Canyon on the way to or from Estes Park and RMNP is a must. The back way from Breckenridge to Keystone around Lake Dillon is a short but fun drive. Durango, Mount Evans Highway (closed this year), all beautiful drives. I want to do a loop from Parker up to the Black Hills to see Mt. Rushmore and then head over to Devil's Tower in Wyoming before heading back home. I think that would be a great three-day trip.
I like the way you think!

[Bob Cowan]

I want to do a loop from Parker up to the Black Hills to see Mt. Rushmore and then head over to Devil's Tower in Wyoming before heading back home. I think that would be a great three-day trip.

We did this with the club a few years. It was a great trip, and we had so much fun. My wife and I also went up there for the big car show and parade one year.

[Papa]

We did this with the club a few years. It was a great trip, and we had so much fun. My wife and I also went up there for the big car show and parade one year.

Bob,

Is that the show in Deadwood? I've got a friend that just moved near there a year or so ago and has told me I need to head up there for the big show.

Dave

[GTBradley]

Wow! That looks like a big show. Loads of categories, but 73 and older and I didn’t see any category for kit. We could steal the show just parking on the street though.
https://www.deadwood.com/event/kool-deadwood-nites/

[GTBradley]

I’m getting my car ready for overnight trips. So far I’ve bought a spare trunk lid, a luggage rack, handle, license plate bracket and light. I just need to get it painted.
Here’s the idea:
129956

129957

I even bought an old Somsonite bag made in Denver:

129958

[Bob Cowan]

Bob,

Is that the show in Deadwood? I've got a friend that just moved near there a year or so ago and has told me I need to head up there for the big show.

Dave

Yup, that's the one. Many many cars of really high quality.

[GTBradley]

Looks like there’s a good trip to Buena Vista this coming Saturday with the group...

[Papa]

Looks like there’s a good trip to Buena Vista this coming Saturday with the group...

I'm planning on going if the weather looks like it will cooperate. My wife will be coming with me, too.

Dave

[Bob Cowan]

Looks like there’s a good trip to Buena Vista this coming Saturday with the group...


I'm planning on going if the weather looks like it will cooperate. My wife will be coming with me, too.

Dave

Me too!

Had a great day at Bandimere today. Took a trip to Fairplay on Friday.

[GTBradley]

Looks like there’s a good trip to Buena Vista this coming Saturday with the group...
...and good it was:

https://youtu.be/hhcl4d1isIc

[D02G]

Great video!

[GTBradley]

I didn't give much thought to the foot box vent modification while I was building the car and it's the one regret I have. It would be so much easier to do this with the body off. I don't need the ventilation that bad as the boxes are quite well sealed against air coming in from the engine compartment, but on really hot days it still gets pretty stuffy sitting at a traffic light. I have always held off adding things as I wanted to avoid the extra weight of unnecessary add-ons and mods that were of low benefit. I have now decided that the vents are valuable and I want them.

So here goes, I installed a pair of light-weight blowers and blast gates to both foot boxes. I know this has been posted before, but I did a couple of things differently.

Parts ordered from Amazon:

(1) 10' of 3" heat resistant hose (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XKQML35/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_AlEfFb0TWNZ56)

(2) 3" plastic blast gates (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223YS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

(2) quiet marine bilge blowers (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F7ANK7S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

From the hardware store I purchased:

(8) 3" stainless band clamps

(1) 3" hole saw

And one package of cable stops and two choke cables from O'reilly's Auto Parts. The toggle switches are from the leftover pile.

I like the 3" hose because it's clear and heat resistant to 176 degrees F and at less than $30 dollars it was a lot cheaper than the other hose I've seen for this application, though I have a lot left over. We'll see if it holds up, but if it doesn't it will be any easy thing to change out. I chose the Seaflow blowers because they were rated highly and reportedly quieter than other blowers. All the blowers had similar amperage and CFM ratings. The blast gates are corrosion proof and very light and seal tightly when closed.

The first thing I did was paint the blowers black, as they will be in the wheel well and would be more visible if left white. I then cut a 3⅝" hole in the elephant ear at the top, inner corner. This had to be done with a Dremel and leaves a jagged whole but I was using a split ⅜" fuel line to pad between the sharp metal and the 3" vent hose so no issue there.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132181&d=1595272202 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132189&d=1595274356 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132187&d=1595274311

The 3 inch vent hose fits perfectly using the fuel line. I used a couple strips of foam rubber under the feet of the blowers to defeat some vibration noise and it does reduce the noise significantly

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132176&d=1595272134 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132175&d=1595272127

I'm using pictures from both fender wells here because the procedure to this point has been identical on both.

[GTBradley]

Next I cut the 3" hole in the right side foot box. I had to remove the Coyote computer to gain access. This hole is cut using a 3" hole saw and is made easy by cutting a pilot hole from the bottom side first. This ensured that it would fit fully in the corner of the passenger side foot box.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132180&d=1595272188

On the right side blast gate I trimmed off just enough to make it fit next to the ¾" tube.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132179&d=1595272168 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132178&d=1595272157 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132177&d=1595272144

The choke cable I used is very difficult to operate until some of it's length is removed and lithium grease is run through it. To navigate from the dash to the location of the right side vent I looped the cable. I added cable stops to both sides of the blast gate and clamped down the cable sheath with a stand off to raise it a bit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132173&d=1595272113 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132191&d=1595274393

[GTBradley]

On the left side things got more difficult. Working space is minimal and on a hot day this is not enjoyable.

The optimum spot to cut through the foot box is right where the plate is mounted that covers a slot in the firewall on the MK4. The blast gate is then put in place with caulking and a short peace of vent tubing and a band clap on the inside to secure it in place. I might have used screws or bolts for this had I done this back when the body was off, but this method seems to work fine. I did have to have another person hold the gate in place on the outside while I slipped on the vent hose and band clamp.

The routing of this choke cable worked best by arching up through the roof of the foot box and then down the front side of the foot box firewall.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132186&d=1595274301 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132183&d=1595274224 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132184&d=1595274259

I cut the hole in the dash just a little small with a step bit so that I could thread the choke cable into it. This gives it a little more rigidity. I finished it off with a couple of Ashly Hinton, original pull knobs.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132185&d=1595274290
https://youtu.be/eMWnjUTIjx0

[GTBradley]

I have to purposely look for the vent tubes in the engine bay and they don't take any room that was needed for anything else.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132174&d=1595272120

I mounted toggle switches to the dash supports using a five amp fuse on each. I just left them hot-wired to the battery because there is simply no chance I'll forget that these are on once the engine is off, as they make plenty of sound to remind me. The air that these fans push is pretty impressive, so I'm glad I went with 3" instead of the 4" that others have used.

Here's a demonstration of how they work


https://youtu.be/MFVrE71oudA

[GTBradley]

I wanted to demonstrate how much air they push when the car is still, but that isn't easy to do, so a shopping bag will have to suffice


https://youtu.be/QPqbppG8uU8

The entire setup cost me just under $200 and that includes the brake duct boots and $20 for two pull knobs though those came earlier with other knobs, so I think it's totally worth the effort to do this modification.

I'll edit this later to show the connection from the front of the fans to the brake duct openings. ********** has not shipped my duct boots in over a month now, so I'll have to wait on that.

[PeteMeindl]

Great idea and execution, Bradley! Thanks for sharing that. We're having a heat wave in the 90's here in Connecticut and, just like you said, the time I feel the heat the most is sitting at a stoplight in the sun. Whoa, it is hot!

Great work.

[GTBradley]

Sure thing Pete. Yeah, unfortunately I did the work on the hottest days we've had and really worked hard to get it going before Evan and I were to drive up to the Shelby American Collection the next day. Fate had different plans though, since I didn't have it connected to the opening on the front of the car yet the air came from the wheel well which is maybe half as hot as the engine compartment:(. Oh well, we'll be cool soon.

How have you all been?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132198&d=1595299134

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132199&d=1595299143

[Papa]

Straight from the Shelby American Collection to Dave's place:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132200&d=1595300282

[GTBradley]

Hey, there I am yammering on about my car! How unusual...

Thanks for having us, that was a fun day.

[toddhack]

Thank you both for showing off your cars. Just the inspiration I needed to get mine finished.

[GTBradley]

Glad to help and it was good to meet both of you. We’re looking forward to seeing the finished product.

[GTBradley]

I finally received the brake duct boots from **********, so I installed those in the last couple of evenings.

I don't anticipate having any weight on these and so I attached them with silicone caulk. If anyone has experience with a better way to attach them I'd appreciate the knowledge.

This is easier to do than I was thinking, so it didn't take a lot of time, though letting the caulk set does take a while - I think the instructions say fully cured in 3 to 7 days. The boots need to be trimmed to fit the duct opening on the body, so I used a band saw to trim the top and bottom opening of the plastic boots and siliconed and temporarily zip-tied them to the car. The only thing left is to attach the duct hose and I'll be ready to put the wheels back on. I should say too that I have removed the screen material from the body opening as I've decided to go with the original look. I don't expect debris or live bugs entering the system to be a problem, but if they are I'll add screen further down the line where it can't be seen.

One other thing I did was to remove the horseshoe brackets that are intended to support the fender up front. I have been reading on a recent thread (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?36791-Mk4-front-body-mounting) that the overrider bolts and grommets serve this purpose and that the horseshoe brackets have a tendency to cause cracks in the body. This was very timely information as the brackets would have prevented installation of the boots. Thanks to Jeff Kliener and Jeff Miller for sharing their knowledge about the subject (body shims...yes, I used termite food, larger bolt tubes and grommets around the campfire - whatever that means...)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132662&d=1596046828 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132663&d=1596046843

[GTBradley]

I decided to report on the things that are working for me and the things that are annoyances. In the video I relate my take on mods and option choices and the wear I'm experiencing at 3500 miles, all done in my first year on the road.


https://youtu.be/qlivJ_CQQ4I

16 minutes of me prattling on about my car is probably not how you want to spend your time, so here is a contents list with times so you can jump to what you do want to hear about:
00:00 Mileage
00:35 Oil
00:50 Brake fluid
01:00 Brakes
01:23 Hill/Parking brake
01:45 MAF and filter issue
02:10 Clutch cable issue
02:25 Tires
02:50 Radiator protection
03:40 Cabin ventilation system
04:10 Whitby soft top
04:45 FFR radiator expansion tank
05:50 Two-speed radiator fan controller
06:35 Aluminum panels
07:45 Breeze Automotive cubby
08:25 Dog harness
08:40 FFR leather seats
09:23 Clear spats
09:55 RT drop trunk
10:44 Luggage rack plans
11:38 Whitby tonneau
12:25 Soft top, again
12:38 Windscreen wipers
13:08 Spinners and 17" wheels
14:34 IRS
14:55 Coyote gas pedal and limited right foot space
15:50 Solid-state turn signals

[TMartinLVNV]

Cool video Bradley. If I could start over again, I would have definitely put in the rear cubby. Cup holders only hold so much. You can try out my 17" wide Kirkey seats in Oct.

[460.465USMC]

Hi GTBradley. I watched your review video a couple times. This is the first video review of this type I've seen. As a new builder getting close to starting my MK4 build, I found your perspective quite helpful. For example, not spending the bucks and time investment on PCing panels is something I'm seriously considering. I ordered the Gen 3 Coyote, and because of its size there's just not much of the engine bay panels visible (as you just demonstrated in your video). Thanks for your investment in the F5 building community!

[GTBradley]

Cool video Bradley. If I could start over again, I would have definitely put in the rear cubby. Cup holders only hold so much. You can try out my 17" wide Kirkey seats in Oct.
If you decide you want the cubby they can be put in after completion. Those cup holders are what I’m struggling to do without. I’m being a snob about them since I remember when they became widely available in the 80s...in minivans!:eek:

[GTBradley]

Hi GTBradley. I watched your review video a couple times. This is the first video review of this type I've seen. As a new builder getting close to starting my MK4 build, I found your perspective quite helpful. For example, not spending the bucks and time investment on PCing panels is something I'm seriously considering. I ordered the Gen 3 Coyote, and because of its size there's just not much of the engine bay panels visible (as you just demonstrated in your video). Thanks for your investment in the F5 building community!
Glad I could help, though it looks like you know what you’re doing already. I’m frugal at heart and I don’t like to do things unless I fully agree with the benefit. When it comes to the roadster, money and time I don’t want to lose and weight I do and those things tend to go hand in hand.

FYI, you might look into a little moding on the foot box by the gas pedal while you still have access. I wish I had.

[PeteMeindl]

Thanks for the great video, Bradley! Really glad to hear how you're enjoying your car and how well it's all turned out!

[GTBradley]

On the longer trips I've noticed that the standard FFR leather seats are lacking in lumbar support, so I researched lumbar pillows on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FZ3F20/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and came up with a nice solution.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134164&d=1598281137 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134160&d=1598277893

I cut the stitching on the bag and removed the foam and bladder pillow, then pulled the air bladder out of the foam too. I didn't want the extra foam thickness because the seat is fine for short drives as is, so without the foam it's unnoticeably thin. I put the bladder back in the fabric covering and sewed the fabric bag in such a way that the bladder wouldn't move around. I haven't used a sewing machine since 9th grade Bachelors Survival class, and this made my wife a little nervous, but it was easy! I had to remove the seat to install, but I wanted to add some padding on both sides of the base and reposition the seat about a half inch farther back anyway. I positioned the air bladder in what felt like the correct location and routed the hand pump and hose so that it would lay just behind the seat on the right side out of sight.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134161&d=1598278890

In the picture I have the lumbar pumped up more than usual to illustrate where it is. Eddie (Rickenbacker) and I went for a test-drive last night (ice-cream for both of us) and it appears to work very well. I won't know for sure until that 3rd/4th hour of continuous driving if it's really what I need, but that will happen soon enough as I have a trip in October that will be 1400 miles+, so I'll update again on my experience.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134163&d=1598280342

[Straversi]

Very nice. I think any modification that makes the car more comfortable is with doing. Eddie looks like he approves.
Happy driving.
-Steve

[JohnK]

Very nice! Thanks for sharing that. I have a bad back and can't sit in a seat without good lumbar support for very long at all, so I need to do something similar to my seats.

[GTBradley]

Very nice. I think any modification that makes the car more comfortable is with doing. Eddie looks like he approves.
Happy driving.
-Steve
Eddie approves of ice-cream. The first start scared the begeezous out of him, but after a few rides with ice-cream as the pay off he is becoming a big fan.

Yeah, those seats are becoming pretty high-tech, what with hi/low heat pads in the base and the back, the strategically positioned additional padding, the breeze mounts and now the lumbar support. Maybe a messager next?...

[Papa]

Eddie approves of ice-cream. The first start scared the begeezous out of him, but after a few rides with ice-cream as the pay off he is becoming a big fan.

Yeah, those seats are becoming pretty high-tech, what with hi/low heat pads in the base and the back, the strategically positioned additional padding, the breeze mounts and now the lumbar support. Maybe a messager next?...

Take it to the next level, Bradley ....

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134179&d=1598288152

[GTBradley]

Very nice! Thanks for sharing that. I have a bad back and can't sit in a seat without good lumbar support for very long at all, so I need to do something similar to my seats.
That sucks, I don't have back problems generally, but the long trip does me in. This was easy and reversible, so you might give it a try.

[GTBradley]

Take it to the next level, Bradley ....
That was strange, I can tell you edited to replace the picture, but I was going to say on that first chair that when I got married my wife made me get rid of the same one.

PS. that guy is smiling just a bit too much:confused:

[Papa]

That was strange, I can tell you edited to replace the picture, but I was going to say on that first chair that when I got married my wife made me get rid of the same one.

PS. that guy is smiling just a bit too much:confused:

Yeah -- the first one I posted just wasn't high-tech enough. :p

[TMartinLVNV]

Take it to the next level, Bradley ....

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134179&d=1598288152

Lol, this would qualify for turning it up all the way to 11!

[GTBradley]

Lol, this would qualify for turning it up all the way to 11!
May need a bigger car...and a kegerator...and a chauffeur...

[BeePea]

Thank you for such a good build read! Question about your top, did you have to set your windshield like the FFR top? Is this something you can decide to do after you've had your car for awhile?

[GTBradley]

Glad it helped.

We did set the windscreen to 53 degrees...I think that is the correct number. However, this can be changed at any time, its just easier to have the painter do it when you know you will be using a top. I kind of like the more raked back look anyway.

[BeePea]

Glad it helped.

We did set the windscreen to 53 degrees...I think that is the correct number. However, this can be changed at any time, its just easier to have the painter do it when you know you will be using a top. I kind of like the more raked back look anyway.

Thank you, appreciate the input!