Wyoming GTM Underway

[jamesfr58]

Now that I have had GTM #500 for a little over a year guess it is time to post some information on my build. Have been reading the forum off and on when I get a chance and even posted a few responses, but it has bee a very busy year looking after my aging parents and younger kids with grandkids (found out what the sandwich generation is) but better late than never I would guess. My name is James and we all live in Wyoming, so the weather up here was bad last winter just after I received my GTM. Good news is, I am lucky enough to have a nice shop to work in due to weather or everything would shut down in the winter.

I received my GTM I September of last year, had to unload it at our local Shopko (we live in a small town in Wyoming only store around with exception of grocery store) because there is no way for a truck of that size to make it up to our shop on the hill much less be able to turn around to get back out. We took delivery in the same weekend as my town Newcastle, WY. has its annual Shine and Show car show. There is usually around 200 cars that show up from all over the northeast corner of Wyoming and parts of South Dakota. Needless we had a lot or visitors watching us unload the GTM form a big truck that said Factory Five Racing on the side in the local parking lot during the annual car show.

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[jamesfr58]

In the shop and ready to start the long task on making it all work. And before I forget I want to thank Shane VRaptor for his assistance, ideas and making the aftermarket parts that make the build better and more functional, along with the guys for Infinity Box, Stan and G-Box and everyone who has help me get to the point I am now on the build.

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[jamesfr58]

GTM frame is on stand with front and back A arms install, steering installed and some of the aluminum panels installed. First fit up of wheels to make sure they had clearance with Wilwood 6 pistons front, 4 pistons back brakes with EDS racing rotors and new Detroit Axle hubs.

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[jamesfr58]

Fast forward, my pit crew (3 of my 6 kids) assist in setting the 585 HP LS3 into the frame for the first time. Engine installed with Kennedy Engineering transition plate and clutch assembly installed on block prior to installation.

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[jamesfr58]

Moving on, this is my 6-speed transmission (996 G2) built by Stan at G-Box in Denver. We added a limited slip and upgraded the final gearing with gears from Australia to change the final gear ratio lowering the RPM when in 6th gear. It is now mated to the transition plate and mounted in the frame with modifications to the rear frame section for transmission mount as shown with plates installed from Shane at VRaptors for mounting the wing.

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[jamesfr58]

Gear shifter mounted in tunnel, Cable Shift provided the shifter and cables with the modified shift mount from Shane.

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[jamesfr58]

A/C Blower relocation using VRaptor supplied kit, it worked very well and opened front end for other modifications such as moving the battery up and evaporator over to make room for everything in the front end. Picture of these modification to follow.

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[jamesfr58]

Added structure to the front nose as it was flimsy, and I figured it would move and rattle during so using thin wall square tubing I fabricated this removable frame to stiffen the lower aluminum plate.

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[jamesfr58]

Fabricating my hard lines for the front-end radiator using silicon fittings to make installation and removal simpler and something that can be done after the car is built.

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[jamesfr58]

Fabricating cooling lines to the water pump again hard piped to silicone fittings for removal if needed. All tunnel piping, cooling, heater and A/C lines in the tunnel are hard piped and insulated, installed on hangers to allow spacing and air flow through the tunnel.

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[jamesfr58]

Had to modify the frame at the water pump (Using a LS1 water pump on LS3 as recommended by Shane) to allow the thermostat housing enough room to keep it from hitting the frame. Fabricated a triangular tube for this section and added a thermostat housing that could be swiveled so the neck was in the proper place for the hard piping. Hard piped form one side of the engine compartment to the other for the heater lines and steam vent. 97806978079780897809

[jamesfr58]

Fabricated the harness bar for the 4-point harness I am planning on using on this build.

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[jamesfr58]

Once again, thanks to Shane who sent me his storage compartment I was able to modify it to fit in the tunnel even though my lines were hung and spaced in the tunnel. Would have been simpler if they were all laying on the bottom but was able to work with what a had and it came out better than I was expecting.

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[jamesfr58]

Installed the Infinity Box system (20 circuit Control module, 2 power modules, InTouch module and temperature control module) along with Dakota Digital HDX gauges, GPS and fan controller. Also installed is an Escort Passport 9500 system integrated into the GTM, pictures show the location of the different modules and the closure over the center section of the front end that was sectioned into 3 pieces for removal and access to the different areas if needed.

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[jamesfr58]

Some pictures of the initial layout of the interior used to insure all wiring was installed and that I could modify the center console to fit my head unit with navigation and the touch pad to operate the Infinity Box system.

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[jamesfr58]

Another look at the modules and Center cover with ductwork.

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[jamesfr58]

A look at the LS3 installed for the front and back of engine compartment.

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[jamesfr58]

Here is the central console modified to except the head unit, a separate cover piece to attach the touch pad for the Infinity Box system through the veneered dash with the HDX gauges installed, veneered panels for the push button start, electronic e-brake, windows switches, interior lights etc. on the center console. The veneer is from Africa and finish quality is good and I hope it comes out at the end of the day looking like a some of the interiors in like hyper cars.

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[jamesfr58]

A few more pictures of interior work and front panel.

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[Straversi]

Beautiful work. Great thing about Wyoming is there is plenty of room for nice large shops. No such luck in Los Angeles. I used to call on Dixon Bros in Newcastle. Great people. Know any of the Dixon’s?
-Steve

[jamesfr58]

Aluminum gas tanks installed with fabricated hold downs to insure they do not move.

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[jamesfr58]

Yes I do, Jim Dixon and his son I have lunch with them ever now and again...

[Straversi]

In most towns that doesn’t work but in Newcastle, it’s a good bet people know each other. Tell Jim that’s Steve Traversi from Polar Tank and Heil Trailer says hello. I saw the roadster in the back of your shop. Did you build that as well?
-Steve

[jamesfr58]

On the lighter side of thing these 2 are my junior shop helpers, Cooper just had to have my powered 3/8 ratchet he is the one in the walker and the little girl Brooklynn is up in the engine compartment with Grandpa she is just a working away. The really like being in the shop with their Grandpa and I really enjoy having them around, the are a blast and you never know what hey are going to try next. The good new is they are to small to break anything still so watching them try to figure it all out is something else!!
They are both walking now so keeping up with them can ware one out!!

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They are a racing team....

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[jamesfr58]

And while I might be getting older, I still like playing with toy trucks... I is fun to drive and everyone really seems to like it. Not how may picture have been taken of the truck but no matter where I travel in it someone always wants to take a picture !!

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Well this kind of brings me up to date. Have not really started on the body yet and have a couple of thing to finish, electrical check out and it should be ready to run as go kart if he weather will let me take it out. Been quite a year and have had a lot of fun so will continue to march on and hopefully have it done before the Newcastle Show and Shine in the fall of 2019..... Hopefully !!

I will try harder to keep post now I have started up to date somewhat and for everyone on this forum it has been great reading what everyone has done, getting ideas and keeps me busy when I am traveling thanks to everyone for sharing with us all and aain special thanks to Shane for his advise and assistance...…….

[jamesfr58]

Yes I did, but needs to have transmission replaced so as soon as I get the GTM off the lift I will but new C4 or C6 in it. It is an automatic not standard (the wife made me do it) she wanted it and I have never been able to get her to drive standard, she tried once and then just quit so since she wanted the car it had to automatic. Not a lot of room in transmission tunnel for automatic but we got her in there.....

[jamesfr58]

I will tell Jim the next time we have lunch. My partners and I were the minority owners of the small refinery here until 2016 when it was sold. So I know him well as they hauled product for us off the rack.

One would never know that as small as Newcastle is there are cars in the area. I have a couple and at the local cars shows around the Black Hills there is always for 150 to 300 collector and hotrod cars. I have no idea where they keep them all and only see them at the car shows but they do come out and they are all for this side of Wyoming or western South Dakota. It really is amazing for as small as these communities are

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Looks like things are coming along nicely! Very nice build!

[Shoeless]

Hey James,

Thanks for bringing us up to date on your build. You are doing some excellent work and I'm very jealous of the shop you have. The custom woodwork will really make that dash stick out. I'm building 501, and feel like a slacker now LOL.

What fuel vent filters are those?

Sean

Holy crap, I just looked up that Passport 9500ci, that is some serious hardware there. I need to research this some more as I love the built in functionality.

[beeman]

Great looking build, very clean! And cup holders!
How are you heating your shop? I'm in talks with a contractor to install a wood burning stove. I'm out in the sticks and we don't have a gas line. Been using a propane salamander up to this point.
Keep posting updates!

[jamesfr58]

Hey Shoeless,

I got them on ebay they are 9mm engine/oil crankcase valve vent intake clamp-on cone blue filter/breather but will work for my needs was around $7.50 and the come in different colors as well.
Yea being built in is a great option and I molded the indicator into the steering wheel cover so it is right in my line of site, this is the hump on top of the steering column.

[jamesfr58]

Hey Beeman,

I live right on the edge of town, the city street ends 10 before my gate, so I let the city have 3/4 of an acre in a strip so I could get them to lay a natural gas line to the place. So it is heated with natural gas one meter for the shop, cars storage (keep it around 55 in the winter) and one for he house. The shop is 40 x 60 approx. pole barn construction and has two 75,000 BTU heaters so depending on how cold it gets don't have to run them both all the time. Insulated with R36 in the walls and R39 in the ceiling.

[TheBabyBadger]

Hey Beeman,

I live right on the edge of town, the city street ends 10 before my gate, so I let the city have 3/4 of an acre in a strip so I could get them to lay a natural gas line to the place. So it is heated with natural gas one meter for the shop, cars storage (keep it around 55 in the winter) and one for he house. The shop is 40 x 60 approx. pole barn construction and has two 75,000 BTU heaters so depending on how cold it gets don't have to run them both all the time. Insulated with R36 in the walls and R39 in the ceiling.

I need one of those... Stupid California space confinements...

[adubbelde]

Hey Neighbor, I'm across the state line just outside Custer. Would like to check out your build some time.

[crash]

Great thread. Thanks for posting.

[jamesfr58]

Was reading my last post and realized I had gone brain dead, spelling and grammar went out the window. I had been up since 3 am on a conference call with parties in Dubai, United Arab Emirates, they done know we need to sleep at night!! I guess I was more tired that I though have been at it for a couple of days with them working on a proposed project in Africa. Think I need to retire all the way!!

Installed tilt and telescoping steering column that is controlled by two momentary switches on the right side of the dash shown in earlier.

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[jamesfr58]

Picture of the cooling lines, heater lines and A/C lines entering the tunnel. Also shown in this picture is the fuel tank crossover that is using 16 AN fitting so is large that the original. Of note, in reading the post on the forum there have been several comments on having to open the cooling system with no good way to drain the system. The angle the radiator sits at in the nose the pit **** is point up on the inside toward the dividing wall and would run all over the front nose pan if opened not to mention you can barely reach it to open it in the first place with the hoses in the way. So, to take care to the problem of emptying the cooling system I added two pit cocks to both lines before they tur exiting the tunnel to the engine. I will look at a way to be able to access them without having to remove the belly pan when I get to that part of the build.

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[jamesfr58]

Made my own clutch stop to keep from pushing the clutch too far and made modifications to yoke on clutch pedal to eliminate the problem of the yoke hitting the clutch pedal and shortened the rod from the clutch master cylinder to the yoke so the clutch moves smoothly through the full range and will not go completely to the foot well back wall. So, to keep from having issues and possible breaking parts in the clutch system in the transmission I added this stop to insure I could not stroke the pedal further than needed.

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[jamesfr58]

Here are some close up picture of the wiring that is complete with all pulled for head unit, all switches, on the passenger’s side is the speaker for the 9500ci and the connection for computer for updates and on the driver’s side is the PRM limiter for A/C, the wiring terminal block from the Infinity Box Master Cell to the various switches etc. and a close up of the warning indicator for the 9500ci built into the top of the steering column. Not shown but it is there is a 1 ½ inch PVC pipe that the wiring passes through from the passenger’s side where the Power Cell and the inMotion Cell are located along with the Fan Controller and the controller for the 9500ci. I will try to get some picture that show the wiring and the crossover through the top of the compartment where the A/C unit is located.

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[jamesfr58]

Here are a few pictures of the GTM nose that show the battery relocate, turning it sideways and raising it so the hard-cooling lines run underneath the battery. The A/C evaporator was moved to the side and you can see my separate ground block and the outside fuse blocks for ignition on 12V and constant 12V that are not connected to the Infinity Box System. I am using a Digital Guard Dawg, PBS-II for Classics, RFID Push Button Start System + 5 output channels for power locks or other power accessories. The power lock feature will operate my door poppers and the popper that will be on the back hatch. It also controls systems that are hooked up to accessary power only that will operate without engine running so I do have a couple of fuse block outside the Infinity Box system. Also pictured is a better picture of the cover over the A/C compartment, the passenger side and driver side foot box area. As mentioned it is sectioned into three sections and any one of the sections can be removed without having to remove the other section, there will screws that overlap two section on the seam line but section bcan be removed without removing the whole cover.

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[jamesfr58]

Again for everyone who post and the good ideas and advise that can be found on this forum I thank you all.

Talking about my shop, I am very blessed to have a really nice shop to work on the GTM build (my wife let me build one, but she extracts her share out in other ways not sure but she might be ahead by now), we have several collector cars and we needed a place to work on them so we can play with them for a while and will resell at a later date. The idea was to give me something to do being semi-retired and keep me from going crazy. I am engineer by trade and enjoy trying to make something better or do something that has never done before, does not always work as designed but fun to try and keeps my mind working and me out of my wife’s way. So, know this has nothing to do with the GTM build but have had some comments on the shop so thought I would post a few pictures of the shop that an am very thank full to have an be able to use.

[jamesfr58]

Ok forgot to add the pictures so here they are...….

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[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Beautiful shop!!

I do have one caution. You are definitely going to want to fix that big hole that you have all of your AC/heat vent hoses coming up thru. Each one of those vent hoses needs to be sealed so that the hot air from the tunnel can't come into the cockpit. If you leave that big open hole like that, it's going to feel like there is a blast furnace running under your dash as you drive....even with the windows down it will roast you out very quickly. We take that top tunnel panel and cut individual holes in it for the vent hoses to be pulled up thru, with the holes slightly undersized of the flex hose so that the hose tends to make it's own natural seal against the edge of the hole. I have that hole pattern in CAD.....I use my plasma table to cut the holes and also have a "patch panel" drawn up with the hole pattern cut into it to fix the cars that come in that already have that hole opened up like yours is.

BTW, don't feel bad.....I think every single GTM I've had come into the shop where the owners already had that panel cut did the exact same thing.

[jamesfr58]

Beautiful shop!!

I do have one caution. You are definitely going to want to fix that big hole that you have all of your AC/heat vent hoses coming up thru. Each one of those vent hoses needs to be sealed so that the hot air from the tunnel can't come into the cockpit. If you leave that big open hole like that, it's going to feel like there is a blast furnace running under your dash as you drive....even with the windows down it will roast you out very quickly. We take that top tunnel panel and cut individual holes in it for the vent hoses to be pulled up thru, with the holes slightly undersized of the flex hose so that the hose tends to make it's own natural seal against the edge of the hole. I have that hole pattern in CAD.....I use my plasma table to cut the holes and also have a "patch panel" drawn up with the hole pattern cut into it to fix the cars that come in that already have that hole opened up like yours is.

BTW, don't feel bad.....I think every single GTM I've had come into the shop where the owners already had that panel cut did the exact same thing.

VRaptor,

That would be great if you have something already drawn up. Since I can remove that section I think I could use the patch panel and make a new section to take it place with the layout that you have. Guess I never thought about that, the heat coming from the nose through the tunnel. Thanks for the heads up it is a lot easier to fix not that later. Can you send the layout can you send me a diagram or tell me where I can find it. Really appreciate the advise and the help you have given me so far not mention the pieces. Thanks

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

For some reason, I can never post photos here. Shoot me an email and I can send you a photo with the hole pattern and hole sizes.

[jamesfr58]

Thanks Shane I will send you an email and have a couple of question on more parts anyway.

[jamesfr58]

Getting stumped by this one and cant find the answer anywhere, my question pertains to the wipers. On the column switch and the operation, I understand you cut or do away with the purple wire to eliminate the high side of the wiper function, but if all other wires are used will the intermittent function still work or do you just have off and low? Making modifications to the switches on the column switches to clean them up and remove the switches that are not needed like cruse control and if no needed I would eliminate the right switch that operates the intermittent function. Don't want to cut it off or epoxy in plate then round off if the function will still work.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Leaving the purple wire disconnected will only disable the high speed wipers.....everything else will still work. Pretty sure that when you move the stalk to high speed, the wipers will remain on in low speed.

[jamesfr58]

Thanks to Shane at VRaptor Speedwork’s on the A/C ducting and need to make sure they were sealed up, so heat does not come into the cabin, and since it was easier to change it now that later he saves me some serious rework.
So, looking at he drawing he sent and compilating what I could do to make the access better for maintenance I can up with an idea to make a big bulkhead connection type plate to cover the section over the A/C unit. Plate cut, drilled and fitted over the center section containing the A/C Unit.

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Based on the drawing that Shane sent I laid out each penetration thought the bulkhead. The layout is slightly different to insure in miss angled the crossmembers in the tunnel section.

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Here it is with the penetrations installed. The A/C duction will fit over each one and will be either zip tied or clamped on the top section. The penetrations are made with of two PVC fitting that have been ground down and modified to allow the A/C hose to fit snuggly over each.

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[jamesfr58]

These are the two types of PVC fitting I started with.

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The threaded bottom modified PVC Fitting is attached to the A/C Duct and cone up through the bulkhead.

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The top coupling piece screws down onto another the modified bottom piece attached to the duct providing a tight seal between the middle A/C unit compartment and tunnel.

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Here is close-up of the fittings sitting on screwed to the bottom piece and sitting on the bulkhead.

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[jamesfr58]

Here is the A/C ducting attached to the top connections orientated in somewhat the same manner as I plan to have them installed. I figure it does two things, one is to allow me to disconnect the duct work and keep out of the way until it is needed for final installation, and second allows me to access just this section of the A/C compartment if needed for maintenance or service. The other two sections over the passengers footwell and drivers footwell are also removable for maintenance or service.

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[jamesfr58]

9821498215Here is the side by side of the before with top center section before with large cutout for ducts and the after with new center bulkhead and bulkhead fittings to connect the ducts from the center section above the A/C unit and tunnel.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Nicely done!!

[beeman]

That should make a huge difference in your cabin comfort.

[Shoeless]

Excellent work!!!!

[jamesfr58]

98421Thought I would post this so if someone has an odd shaped or complicated piece to paint it will save you a lot of time. Masking off small pieces or irregular pieces can be a challenge but I was taught a way to make fast work of this task buy using aluminum foil. It can be molded around just about anything no matter the shape as it can be folded or crushed around these strange shapes good enough to keep the paint off the parts you want. Check out the picture below, I wrapped up the turn signal switch and the window wiper/washer switch to paint the handles after removing unwanted parts and filling holes. It still work great !!

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[jamesfr58]

Guess I need to figure out how to use the buttons better !! Have been buys working at that thing they call a job lately so have not been able to work on the GTM like I want but just had to tall this story. While working on the car a few day ago, my grandson cam to visit me in the shop. While there he decided he wanted in the car to drive. So with out thinking (brain fog) I let him climb in the car and he started turning the steering wheel around. Now, while i thought it was kind-da cool for him to take an interest, I forgot I had not tied the wiring up under the drivers side by the steering wheel. Well, let me tell you, even a little guy like him can turn the wheel hard enough to wrap up a few wires and pull a few out...…. So it took me a few hours fixing them and putting them back into there connectors, but got the task done and now we have the wiring tied back away from the steering column !!

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[jamesfr58]

Well those pictures posted sideways but everyone will get the idea. Made the temporary dash and plate to hold switches, will go now add fuses to Infinity Box system and connect the battery. Time to check the electrical out …………… Once that is complete, time for first fire up in the GTM frame. Engine has been run on a test stand but not in the GTM yet. Was hoping to get this done next week but heading for Houston of meetings all week so might be the following week before it fires but will film it and post. It will be a milestone for sure, then on to all the body work :p

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[jamesfr58]

Well, achieved a milestone for the Christmas holiday, all mechanical work and wiring done, so yesterday for the first time, hit the push button start to see if the motor would roll over and ignition would come on and it did!! Powered up the HDX gauge set and it came on with a green blinking light ready to go so testing continues with fan controller and then full check out of Infinity Box system then the really big test……. Time to put some gasoline in the tanks and see if she will rumble to life and run, accelerate and idle properly. The ready for the go-kart test drive weather permitting. It is cold here in Wyoming now, have a day every now and again in the 45-50-degree range so hope to get it out on one of these good days if we have any and take the first drive.

I will post a video of the first fire up and run shortly as I am just about there.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Be sure not to put power to your fuel pump until you get fuel in the tanks.......

[beeman]

Making some great progress! I'm about to dive into wiring. Still weighing keeping the C5 harness vs aftermarket with C5 components spliced in, I am keeping ABS and TC.

[jamesfr58]

Shane

Thanks for the heads up, it is still disconnected hot wire uncoupled at connector. Will put fuel in in a day or two and hopefully fire the engine for the first time. Have all fluid is and was able to get almost 5gallons of anti-freeze in with out running the engine so it should be almost full. Hope to hear it run before the first of the year....

[jamesfr58]

Beeman

Hard to tell sometime what is best, mine was all new, installed the Infinity box system and pulled the remaining wire myself. I am sure there has to be an easier way, but I am sure I more than likely did it the hard way !! if there is a easier way I will not find out about it until I have completed a task and someone tell me why didn't you do it like this.... da, guess I should of though of that !!

[jamesfr58]

First Start of GTM #500, finally got there !!



https://youtu.be/7qxy6FdPOmM

[jamesfr58]

First Start of GTM #500, finally got there !! Video did not post first time....

https://youtu.be/7qxy6FdPOmM

[tucker298]

awesome work! great updates! i just got caught up on your thread and you've answered ALOT of my AC ducting questions that I just posted, thanks for the info for the rest of us!

-Brent

[adubbelde]

Awesome.

[jamesfr58]

Wanting to insure the steering column telescoping function was working through the Infinity Box Master Cell and the inMotion module I hooked them up and put it through testing. Had to add another shim to column where it is tied into the frame from FFR and remade the bracket that attaches the drive motor to allow the column to slide to the back of the slotted holes. Had to move the drive motor back and down approximately 1/2 inch down to keep everything lined up so there was no binding on the column.

Remade mounting bracket for the drive motor, also made the bracket heavier to eliminate flexing when in use.

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Steering column in operation

https://youtu.be/EzIRdZYKxBw

[jamesfr58]

Here is the video of the steering column operating


https://youtu.be/EzIRdZYKxBw

[jamesfr58]

Hopefully I will get the hang of posting on the board for everyone to see better.

I have been installing some LED lighting in the engine compartment and will look at installing some up from as well. Thought the would look good at the car shows or at least I hope so to add some contract and draw attention to the detail in the engine bay, as well as giving light if needed to the engine compartment when the sun goes down. Below is a video of the lights and some of the patterns that they can generate.


https://youtu.be/vS2GbCJumiU

[jamesfr58]

Checking out interface with brake lights and safety system on Digital Dawg push button start intergrade with Infinity Box, the good news is it works and still starts and runs, LED brake lights work great. These are light I purchased in lieu of the stock FFR lights and they are really bright.....

Foot off break ………. Foot on break engine ready to start !!

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[jamesfr58]

With the mechanical work basically complete until the body is on, I have started of the smaller thing as it relates to the interior. I have all the switches and buttons installed on the veneered wood pieces installed and am working on terminating all the wiring in the tunnel to the accessory switches. The plan is to cover the outside of the tunnel with a 1/8” or 1/4” sandable foam and the veneered wood pieces will sit down inside the foam once the tunnel is upholstered. The veneer is a Bubinga Raw Wood Veneer (AKA African Rosewood) wood attached to 1/4” thick sub flooring plywood. The push button latching and momentary switches with etched titles came and are now in place. Below are some pictures of the final product.

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Driver side tunnel - Center Console - Passengers Side

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Each Piece Shown Separately

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Center Console with all veneered pieces in place with upholstery to show contract. Cut outs for shifter and radio will follow during final assembly

[jamesfr58]

The drivers side tunnel switches installed and working

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Switch panel for center console wired and working, the cut out that has nothing there yet is for the Escort Passport 9500ci built in radar detector

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Moving on the passengers side tunnel today and will finalize the wiring when installing. New will be to set body on frame for eh first time to set the back fire wall and front dash pieces. Time to stat working on the doors and body, plant to build a body buck so once things are fit up I can remove body and work on the fiberglass on the body buck before refitting to finish doors etc. if possible, and if not will revert to plan C as I have already ruled out plans A and B !! Will keep marching along and hopefully will have if finished this year but who knows life has a way of getting in the way so we shall see...……..

[adubbelde]

Looking good James. About time to make another venture across the state line to check things out.

[jamesfr58]

Thanks and your welcome anytime.
Finished the passengers side accessory panel it has a 12V round port, a 5V 2amp charging port for iPhone etc. and a connection to head unit for iPhone, ipod or similar device direct to the double dinn head with navigation , apple car play and back up camera.
unit that will installed in center console.

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[jamesfr58]

Hooked up all panel to test night time lighting system through Infinity Box system. All interior LED working with theater timed shut off and dash and center console unit working as planned, turn on with switch on steering column when parking lights come on.

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Have to finish the wiring to the hatch popper and the final connection and mounting for the Escort Passport 9500ci on the center panel, clean up the wiring and tie in place then on o the body work. Will mount the body on the frame for eh first time since it arrived this week to set the back fire wall and front dash parts. Starting to look like a real car !!

[beeman]

That 9500ci looks like a nice unit. I have the Uniden R3 which I have been impressed by the range but get a lot of false alerts from other vehicle blind spot warning systems. Would be cool to have a built in radar detector.
I didn't think Wyoming had speed limits? :p

[jamesfr58]

Beeman, well you are partly right, when they removed he federal 55 MPH speed limit Montana went back to know speed limit listing it as safe a prudent for the road conditions (I was in Montana at the time) and Wyoming raised there but did not enforce them as well as the Feds thought they should. So at the end of the day the Feds told them both they would with hold federal highway funds if they did not change and implement a speed limit and enforce them. Back then I was traveling from Eastern Montana back to Billings and got pilled over doing 110 MPH, but not for speeding but because my back license plate was missing (it was in the cab, knocked it off loading a trailer), cost me 20 dollars but nothing for speeding. We should go back to those days...………. There is nothing up here and takes for ever to get anywhere so why not get on down the road. You can push it pretty hard here still but they will at some point pull over.

Here is the full completed center control panel for the center column completed with the controller for the 9500ci install with warning light. All wiring hooked up and down inside the center column. The red rags jut help keeping it from getting scratched while sitting against the frame. Wanted to make sure it all fit, so no good to go.

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Would like to take it to and drive it in go kart stage but weather in Wyoming this time of year not very good to make an attempt. Don't thing as light as the GTM is and the HP it has will do very good on the snow and ice, in fact might not even make it up the hill out side the shop to get to the road. Hopefully it will get better sooner than later and I can get out to drive for the first time, would need ski's on the front end now!! So will continue on building and wait for better weather.

[jamesfr58]

Well had to rework the steering column to get additional clearance between the seat and the steering column. I opted to install the telescoping version (may not make a difference at the end of the day) and shimmed the column down to the telescoping function to work right as other have done. But after lower it and setting the seats in the car decided to raise it back up to the bracket or just below the mounting bracket (has 3/16" shims on each side to clear the 1 1/2" main square tube frame) and made new brackets to hold the motor for the telescoping function (FFR supplied bracket would not work with out lowering the column) and reworked the bracket holding the carrier baring for the steering rods to the steering rack. I will also add another brace from the 1 1/2" tube to the column tube to stiffen the column as it will still flex now. I also added a cable tray for the wiring where it crosses over the steering column to the Master Cell and the Dakota Digital controller for the instrumentation. Below are some pictures of the cable tray installation.

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Protects wiring for getting into the linkage on the steering column

[jamesfr58]

Here are the seats sitting inside the car, they are for a fox body Mustang and the are sitting on sliders inside the car. The seat is under 33" tall and fit inside the cockpit with no problems. I know they are not pretty but they were priced very well, got them from an individual as the matched the dimension I was looking for to put the sliders on the seats and keep them short enough allow them to work in the car. I am going to recover them to match my interior design so I did not care that they were black and red with a small tear in the drivers set, the price was right. Might have to rework the should wings to insure they do not hit the door but think they will work. Mounted on modified mount plates for the Mustang I modified to keep them right down against the GTM floor. Will take better picture when fully mounted.

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New mounting bracket for drive motor for telescoping steering column

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[beeman]

Looks like you are about ready to go-kart!

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

I don't want to discourage you, but I can't see how those seats can work unless you're 5' 6" or shorter. Looks like the base of the seat is about 6" thick, which means you lose about 6" of headroom over the FFR seats. Also, I'm guessing your legs are going to be wedged up against the dash with the front of the seat so high and thick. The dash extends well below the chassis tube and steering column.

[72442conv]

With the mechanical work basically complete until the body is on, I have started of the smaller thing as it relates to the interior. I have all the switches and buttons installed on the veneered wood pieces installed and am working on terminating all the wiring in the tunnel to the accessory switches. The plan is to cover the outside of the tunnel with a 1/8” or 1/4” sandable foam and the veneered wood pieces will sit down inside the foam once the tunnel is upholstered. The veneer is a Bubinga Raw Wood Veneer (AKA African Rosewood) wood attached to 1/4” thick sub flooring plywood. The push button latching and momentary switches with etched titles came and are now in place. Below are some pictures of the final product.

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Driver side tunnel - Center Console - Passengers Side

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Each Piece Shown Separately

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Center Console with all veneered pieces in place with upholstery to show contract. Cut outs for shifter and radio will follow during final assembly

Where did you get those switches? Been trying to find something like that with no luck.

[jamesfr58]

72442conv,

I got the switches from Automotive Buttons Pty Ltd in Australia, they arrive in about 5 days. Here is a like to their site: www.billetautomotivebuttons.com

[jamesfr58]

Thanks Shane, I am not quite that short but not tall either. Not sure How think they are but will set them back into the car and check. I still have the FFR seats and as you say may have to end up using them or maybe mounting the other seats directly on the floor (removing the slider and mount, but again thanks for the heads up something I need to check out for sure.

[jamesfr58]

Beeman, I would love to take it our for a drive but the weather here...… well take a look, don't think I can even get it up the hill out of the shop !! Instead I get to drive something different to move the snow around, and in fact have to do it again tomorrow.

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[jamesfr58]

Tested the remaining wiring, lights, turn signals, emergency flashers and all went well all working as planned. Still need to add clutch neutral safety switch bit have wires pulled and working to make the car start. Need the body go back on the frame and continue working on the interior.

https://youtu.be/2tCcvWpm_Co

[jamesfr58]

Here is the video of the lights working, I have one led hooked to front low beams, one led hooked to high beams, the two led that are amber are the front turn signals, two of the back lights are hooked up one for each side so you can see all lighting, turn and 4 way flasher working.


https://youtu.be/2tCcvWpm_Co

[jamesfr58]

Cleaning up the wiring, have most of it tied in place now and believe it or not everything is still working, it is good to have a little luck from time to time !! Pictures of engine bay and nose with wiring heat insulated and tied in place.

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[beeman]

Very clean, very nice!
What is the RPM limit switch relay for?

[jamesfr58]

Beeman,

The RPM Window Switch (the technical name) is used to monitor and shut down the air conditioner compressor when the engine RPM's exceed a set limit to keep from over speeding the compressor under hard acceleration. I purchased mine form JEGS, got the information from Shane (VRaptor) on the switch. The relay shuts down the compressor when RPM limit is exceeded by tripping the relay. Here is a picture of the RPM Window Switch installed in cockpit. You can set the number of cylinders and the RPM you want the switch to trip the relay. The switch is the little black box just right of the steering wheel in the aluminum mount to the 1 1/2" frame tube.

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[jamesfr58]

Those are the only relays in the car, the 4 shown in the picture 1 for the A/C unit, 1 for the RPM Window Switch (turns it off at a set high rpm number and back on below low limit number) and the 2 for the electric fans. I have an aftermarket fan shroud with 2 3000 cfm Spal fans one low and one high speed. They are controlled by a Dakota Digital Fan Controller (not the ECU as my stand alone ECU only had one speed running both fans all the time), that I can set the temperature for each fan to come on and turn off again.

[Shoeless]

Very cool James. I like seeing how other are attacking simple things like cutting the AC at certain RPM to not over load the compressor, but also not rob you of power when you go for maximum acceleration under higher engine loads.

For my setup, I'll be controlling this through my AEM EMS computer. It has tons of functionality including many safe modes that I can program in like low oil pressure = limp mode.

[jamesfr58]

Well since I have a size 8 1/2 foot (like small size-short and wide) I decided to raise the foot well so it was not as far from the floor to the peddles. The reason for raising the floor was to get peddles closer it really changed the look in the cab on both the driver and passengers side and think it is a lot cleaner. Got part of the body seam sealed and am not getting ready to put body on and set seat in interior. Below are some picture of each side with floor raised.

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Work taking up more time now so progress is slowing but still plugging along when I can...……

[jamesfr58]

Thought I would share with everyone, did not get to work on car today, had to dig us out from underneath a massive snow fall. That took all afternoon when temperatures warmed up to a whole 6 degrees. Tonight drop to -17 degrees with the high tomorrow of only 2 degrees. I figure I have about 2 to 3 months before I can even think about taken it out as go kart, but will continue on body and interior...….

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[jamesfr58]

And it is still snowing over 12" now and climbing !!

[adubbelde]

Just 35 miles east we only got 4"

[Shoeless]

I’m glad I don’t have to deal with that white fluffy crap falling from the sky in S FL :cool:

[jamesfr58]

Got the drivers seat installed using the seats designed for a fox body mustang. The racing seats are smaller than the standard racing seat and I was almost certain they would fit without or with very little modification. They are sitting on adjustable seat tracks, as I am short compared to some others that are pushing 6’, at 5’ 8” I can slide the seat back as far as it can go before it hits the tunnel and just barely reach the pedals (short inseam only 27”- 28”) and need to slide the seat forward to be able to push clutch to the stop.

In the pictures below the seat is all the way back against the tunnel and you can see the clearances with the center water fall and how it sits in the cockpit. It is almost centered with the steering wheel and being able to slide the seat back helps getting in and out of the car.

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[jamesfr58]

This is how the seat is mounted to the floor just off the floor in the back and attached to the lip of the metal pan in the front.

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[jamesfr58]

Here is the clearance on the top of the seat, I can raise it straight up with very little clearance but it does not touch the frame bar. I may modify the top section of the seat but think it will work as is with no modifications.

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[jamesfr58]

I reposted the picture from above showing the seats in the car in relationship to the steering wheel and tunnel. Hopefully they are not sideways this time.

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Hopefully the passengers side will not be issue as don't have to match up with everything on drivers side. The seats will be recovered to match my interior so they are not staying the cloth red and black they are now.

[jamesfr58]

Well finally got back out in the shop and finished the seat belt harness mounts installed. I have a 4 point harness going in on both sides and these are the brackets for the lap portion, will have to install two more at a later date for the shoulder harness after more of the interior is installed and the seats along with the harness bar are installed for proper placement.

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[jamesfr58]

Also fitted the ARP wing onto the weld in steel wing mount designed by Shane at VRaptor Speedworks. I would like to thank Shane again for the great design work he puts in on the aftermarket parts for the GTM. Wanted to make sure I did not need to change anything before the body goes on, and as designed and fabricated by Shane it when on without any issues and look really on the complete frame support system he designed.

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[jamesfr58]

I also deign and have installed temporary for now kick panels for both the drivers and passengers side foot well to enclose the tube frame and I will be relocating some of the electronics down to the kick panel on the foot wells for access after the body is installed o the car. The currently are sitting on to of the mounts for Shane for eh Infinity Box CAN-bus system on both the drivers side and passengers side. They were mount there temporary to finish wiring, finish checkout of electrical system and programing of the Dakota Digital modules. They will be moved to the kick panels so they can be accessed later if needed.

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[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Dang....you're making some good progress!! Looks great!

[jamesfr58]

Thought I would post another update not that I have the kick panels finished, dead pedal modified and installed and the electronics I had on top of the Infinity Box system on the mounts supplied by Shane. Was getting ready to put the body on and in looking at the position of the electronics I discovered (should have seen it sooner) that I would not be able to get to or service the electronics if I needed to due to placement the body would cover them up behind the dash and it would almost impossible if not totally impossible to get to the modules if I needed to remove one of the Dakota Digital modules or the controller for the escort 9500ci. I can control the Dakota Digital from my phone or pad through blue tooth but as we all know anything can go wrong and may need to get to the modules. So to that end I relocated the modules down to the kick panels I made to enclose the foot wells and cover the exposed tubing making a smooth wall.

This is the drivers and passengers side location of the modules prior to relocation sitting on the mounts for eh Infinity Box system.

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This what the back side of the Infinity Box mounts look like now with modules relocated

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This is the foot wells finished with the modules relocated and the modified dead pedal installed. The trim on the outer tube of the footwells installed this will be covered allowing a good clean edge at the transitions piece to the kick panels. I will cover these with the same material I am using on the main tunnel and try to make a additional matching piece to cover the electronics on each kick panel that hopefully will look good and be functional at hiding the modules mounted on the panels.

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Think I will go back now and cover the floor etc. with the thermal and sound barrier material before I put the body on. It will be easier and I can cover at least up to the seat area prior to putting the body on and attaching the back wall.

[jamesfr58]

Got a chance to do some more work on the GTM between cleaning up snow that seems to fall every two days and work. After I built the kick panels and moved the electronics I decided to build a mold to make a fiberglass cover to hide the electronics moved to kick panel. The picture below is my cardboard mold that I covered with blue tape prior to fiber glassing.

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[jamesfr58]

This is what the fiberglass cover looks like when finished, this one fits the passengers side and hides the fan controller and control module for the escort 9500ci.

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[jamesfr58]

Here is the kick panel with the fiberglass cover installed on the panel that now has the dead pedal installed and I have covered it with sand able foam in preparation for covering. I still have some wiring to finish tying up under the dash as well but it is starting to get there. I have also started installing the sound / thermo mat in the drivers foot well. I hoe to get the foot well done with barrier and carpet before I fit the body on as it seem it will be harder to get to after the body is on the frame.

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[72442conv]

Here is the clearance on the top of the seat, I can raise it straight up with very little clearance but it does not touch the frame bar. I may modify the top section of the seat but think it will work as is with no modifications.

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You have to be careful with the seats when the body is not installed. if you are short and need to move the drivers seat forward, if the upper bolster goes into the door area it may hit the door, I know as I am also vertically challenged. One thing I found out is that the seat has to be as close to the inside tunnel as possible or the upper side bolsters will hit the door. If the bolsters on that seat are wider than on the seat provided by FFR it will probably hit the door when you move it forward.

[jamesfr58]

Thanks for the heads up on the seats, I think they will fit and I am modifying the door panel so should clear there. If the shoulder bolsters are to wide I have looked at modifying them to decrease the total length across the bolsters. Have not had the body on yet but getting ready to and will check them before I send seats to be recovered. Both sides are as close to the tunnel as I can get them now and yes you are right I get in the care and have to slide it forward to driving position.

I have been away for a couple of weeks at NASCAR race in Vegas and am in Phoenix now, it was so cold in Wyoming we decided to go to Phoenix they have race here this weekend then go home and hope its is warmer has been -5 day and -17 at night so since we are down south were it has been 80 decided to stay an extra week.

[jamesfr58]

Well back home and getting to work on the GTM again. Continuing where I left off, I have been working on the foot well kick panels to cover the exposed square tubing and to hid the modules I moved from on top of the Infinity Box mounts (supplied by Shane at VRaptor) and down to the upper foot well for access after the body is mounted to the frame. I have made is so that after the body is on and should the need to remove one of the modules arise I can remove the covers, unplug the module and remove from the GTM with relative ease, have to get into the foot well somewhat but can be reached with no problem. As the process was going along I decided I would try my hand at the upholstery and cover the kick panels. I covered the wood form with 1/4" foam and the removable cover with 1/8" foam, then covered the large panel portion with one of my interior colors an reinstalled the completed panel with the electronic modules attached, connected all wiring and installed the cover over the connected modules. Have no made the covers for the curved module cover but will attempt to sew these myself and cover with the same color. I took some time to figure out ho best to cover them and this is my first attempt and upholstery work but I wanted to do as much of the work as I can myself, then hand it off for the finishing touches. Hopefully I can figure out most of the interior but seats going to shop to be recovered and modified is needed. Below is some pictures of the finished kick panel.

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[jamesfr58]

Sorry guys don't know what happened here, not sure how it posted the pictures twice, did not mean to clutter up the post.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

If that's your first upholstery job, you killed it! Looks great!

[jamesfr58]

Thanks Shane, it was my first try at it, always had someone do it for me but figure after watching them I could figure this out as well. Got the passenger side done now and starting on the foot wells tunnel walls and front end carpet are next on my list to tackle. Once this is completed the body will go on to finish the fire wall etc. Still think is will be easier to work on the interior this way with the body off so I can fit my older self under the dash parts and reach everything without having to go through the door opening. At over 60 I just don't bend like I used to...….

Think I might try to do most of the upholstery myself, looking for a good sewing machine now to French stitch what I need to sew for the interior. We shall see if this old dog can learn a new trick....

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[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

We do all of the interior that we can with the body off for that very reason. All carpet and tunnel suede installed, tank covers, waterfall, rear window panel, seats, seat belts.....everything except the 3 main dash pieces.

[Shoeless]

That looks amazing James, keep up the great work.

[jamesfr58]

Took some time to figure it out but got the glove box or Shane's storage compartment door done, completely covered both front and back and still have the hinge operate being covered with the door. The door is smaller as I had to cut the size down to fit over the top of the lines I had mounted in the tunnel and show in a earlier post. It came out better than I had expected so into the passages side tunnel now to see how it will all go together.

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Got my sewing machine ordered so now a new learning curve as it will attempt to do the complete interior myself. Used to sew but been a long time with raising kids and work so if I can remember the right way to get the job done it might even come out right. Thought about using leather but since I haven't done it for over 30 years think I will go with a heavier than supplied vinyl (faux leather) so if I have to may mistakes it wont break the bank like buying leather. Will post my progress on this new adventure and hope it goes well, but if nothing else might all get a good laugh at the way some of it might come out the first time !!

[jamesfr58]

Been continuing the work on the interior, got the storage compartment door mounted with the switch plate on the passengers side along with getting the foam on tunnel (really smooths out the hard lines of the panel bends) and due to the foot well kick panels had to modify the next panel that goes below the door opening. I closed up the large hole in the panel for the corvette style retractable seat belts (I am using 4 point harness) then made templet and test fit for some box pieces that will close of the area between the harness mount and the body as I intend to upholster the panel below the door instead of carpet and wanted it to look clean instead of having the large hole where you can see the body. This interior work sure is taking a long time, but think it will be worth it in the end to have it customized (my way) in lieu of the plain black interior. Know it may not add any value to the GTM but hope it will look good and stand out to those who look at the GTM. Kind of crazy I know but..... since its for me guess I can modify it the I think it will look best......one of the perks of building your own car !!

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[beeman]

James, I agree with you completely that you should build the car exactly the way that you want to, it is essentially the whole point of the GTM! We all are here because we decided that the OEM manufacturers don't have an existing product that is more desirable than the philosophy of the GTM.
You seem to be moving right along, keep it up! The weather will be breaking soon!

[jamesfr58]

You never know what you might find on a walk about.....so to that end I have a story I will share from today, kind of funny but work out well in the end. It post is kind of long but thought it was worth putting up for everyone to see and maybe get inspired by what we can find that is used every day that might work as a piece of what we are trying to build. Hope you guys enjoy it.

Ok I have a story to tell that is kind of funny and as it turn out worked out really well. In my last post I show one of the side panels below the door that I was working on. Trying to build a box that looked good from aluminum was my idea, I had gotten as far a making a crude box to cover the space in the panel where the original corvette seat belts attached to clean it up and close it off from the body side around my installed mounts for my 4 point harness. So I went and got two aluminum panels to bend up into boxes, one for each side panel. Then after leaving the Farm and Ranch store I decided to go check out the sale at our local Shopko as they are going out of business after filing bankruptcy.

So I am wondering down the isles checking the prices of a few things I might get since the are liquidating the store. I am walking through the cooking section when I pass two small loaf pans sitting on the self for 3.50 each. As I walked by and passed them, an idea popped into my head. While cant I just use these small loaf pans and cut them a needed, they might work and would give a nice clean look with no rivets that show or welds to dress up and both sides would be exactly the same adding good symmetry to the interior. So I backed up and picked up the small loaf pans.

So here are the little loaf pans

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Then I mad a new panel and attached the loaf pans to the patch panel with a notch cut our for the mount to enter the bottom inside the boxed area. I then mounted the patch panel with the modified loaf pan onto the side panel than goes next to the seat and under the door.

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Here is the test fit of the panel with the patch panel with modified loaf pan in the GTM, from inside the cockpit, outside the cockpit and a close up of the loaf pan and mount for the harness.

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I had to trim the panel as it was designed to come up onto the 1 1/2" tube where the door hinges are but with the kick panel and the way it mounts I hand to change the design to accommodate the kick panel.

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And finally I have the foam on the new piece and again a look at the panel with the foam set inside the cockpit.

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The moral of this story is it took 1/3 the time to build complete using the small loaf pan as it did to try to build the box templet then cut out the aluminum, bend the aluminum of brake, drill the hole for rivets, rivet the box together and try to fit it into the original patch panel. Some how I always have in the back of my head what I am trying to do in the GTM build, think it stays there churning all the time. And because it is every no and again I stubble across an idea when out looking for something else that work out even better than I thought, more often than not. Guess its the engineer in me that is always looking for a better way, and at time it even sets me back when I finally come across a better way and have to take the GTM apart to reconfigure it after I build it once before. But then again that part of the fun for me is keeping my mid sharp and seeing if I can come up with a better way that at the end of the day will make the GTM better, improve the looks and as Beeman said make it mine...….

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

LOL....well gotta admit that worked out pretty well! You can be pretty certain that you have the only GTM build with incorporated bread pans!

[beeman]

Not to mention you saved those cooking pans from a depressing life of meatloafs! Can you imagine the stories they will be telling at the reunions?
"Well, it certainly sounds like that fruitcake of 2035 was one for the ages, but let me tell you about the time I averaged 170mph in the Silver State Classic."

[claybags]

Ingenious!! That's a creative mind working there.
Cheers, Jeff

[Roger Reid]

I like it.

[jamesfr58]

Ok all here is a update on the meat loaf pan closure for the side panels under the door. I got one finished today and hope to get carpet installed on passengers side so I can install the kick panel and the meat loaf panel for the last time. Here it is covered front and from the back side, then finished sitting in the cockpit. Because the pans were already coated I jut left them the color they were and that made the panel wrap smooth and clean. So what does everyone think, not bad for an impromptu engineering decision.

And thank to everyone for the kind comments, though everyone would get a chuckle out of the story...….

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[jamesfr58]

Update on my upholstery progress (or my learning experience doing upholstery) on the passenger side of the GTM. I have the front half of the tunnel done, the kick panel and the carpet laid along with my now infamous meat loaf pan side panel that goes under the door. Getting it figured out slowly and I hope to get better as we go along. Got my sewing machine and will start working, or I should say practicing on some scrap material before I make the first attempt to sew the covers over the Dakota Digital modules on the kick panels. Should be interesting to see how they come out!!

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[jamesfr58]

On a lighter note I am trying to get the next generation interested in the car hobby both collecting and building. This is my granddaughter, she thinks she can drive already but think it will be a few more years. Both under two years of age, grand kids like to come down to papa’s shop, they are fun to watch, and I know they are trying to help. Makes my day and always good for a smile and good laugh.

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[beeman]

I enjoy having the kids out in the shop too, but it kills productivity!
Your interior is really coming along, it looks great! What are you going to line your tunnel glove box with?
Have you decided on a paint scheme yet?

[jamesfr58]

Beeman, I was planning on lining the glove box (storage area) with a felt material. It is already has a thermal barrier around the outside of the box so jut need to line the inside. If in still need to reduce the heat in that area I will and some thermal mat to the inside under the felt lining. And unless I change my mind (like that happened all the time) the exterior color will be Tangerine Pearl with either flat black or possibly and other dark color (dark brown or maroon) stripes. That is the plan now but have a long wat to go so it still may change...…

[jamesfr58]

Have the passenger side what I would call lower interior installed. The tan band sitting at the joint between the waterfall and the top center console piece it will span from passenger side floor to driver side floor and coverup the joint between front and rear of GTM. Now on to the drivers side, seems a shame I have to take it apart one more time to get interior in but that's the way it goes. Learned a lot on passengers side so hopefully the drives will go faster and hopefully I have improved on my skills.

Here is a picture of my upholstery machine I have been working with, still need a lot of practice but try on test pieces every day an am getting better. You see a piece I made, it fit well but need to work on keeping my seams straight, but not to bad for my first time making pattern and putting it together. Will work on this piece some more so not final yet but installed to see what the color scheme was looking like.

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And here is a view around the passengers side of the lower part of the interior installed.

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[beeman]

Looks great! If your passenger starts holding a straight edge to your seams, just gun the throttle!

[jamesfr58]

Well got back home after 2 weeks in Kansas trying to help my aging parents get into an assisted living center, no fun but needed to be done. So, getting back to work on the GTM, go the drivers side loaf pan panel done and ready to install. Moving on to the driver’s side tunnel and carpet now. Got my specialty hoses (reducing hoses) in to eliminate the radiator hoses that have bushings where they change size. They all seem to weep a little antifreeze and I was tire of fighting them so ordered reducing replacement hoses and will also get them installed. Hate to drain cooling system down again but better now than later.

On another note weather is really getting nice up here now so hope to get go kart out soon for first test run. Will finish driver side lower inter interior first as I have the modules out to install interior but after that is finished and cooling system reworked it out for a first drive.

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[jamesfr58]

Well finally got back down to the shop today for the first time in more than two weeks. That hospital took more out of me than I thought, but am now again working on the GTM albeit a little slower than a few weeks ago but hope to be up to full steam soon. I got the foam on the drivers side tunnel done under the foot well and out to the point where the strap will cover the joint. Will attempt to get this covered in color tomorrow I hope, but will see ho it going in the morning. Good to get back into the shop if even for a little while!!

107071

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Keep in mind how this is going to effect the main dash fitment to the tunnel. We also usually apply the same foam you're doing there, but only apply it to the panels up to the 1" flange on the tunnel tubes and leave that part with no foam. Once you get both the foam and upholstery on the flange for the tunnel tubes, your main dash will no longer fit where it did before and it will push the main dash back quite a ways.....to the point that you may have little or no overlap with the main dash to cowl area of the body.

[jamesfr58]

Thanks for the heads-up Shane, I think it will fit as is but will set console back on the tubes again. I had it on with only one side covered and had around 1/4"+ still open on the other side. I had thought about how it would fit and if I need to I can pull it off the tubes and remove some foam to narrow the section where the console fits. I will take a few pictures when I set it back on and post them, maybe you can take a look then and see if you think I am still going to have an issue. I really appreciate the advice and knowledge you share on this forum with all of us building the GTM. I just hope I can do as good a job as what I have seen you turn out, always admire your work. Again thanks.

[jamesfr58]

Finally go the drivers side upholstery completed this weekend. Still moving a little slow but back at it again and moving along. Here are some pictures of the center console sitting in place with upholstery done on both sides of the tunnel. I tapered the foam when it was installed it fit as I hoped it would, take a look if you get a chance Shane and let me know if you thing I still have a problem.

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Below are some pictures of the completed drivers side, with the small cover over the Dakota Digital modules. I French seam this one to see the difference and like it better so guess I will make another cover for the passengers side and French seam that cover as well so at least they will match.

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Going to sew up a bely like piece of the lighter color to cover the seam in the tunnel and where the two top center column pieces join...

Now I will have some decisions to make on the remaining color scheme before continuing to cover the interior parts. And the weather I though was going to be good enough to get the go-kart out for a first drive but oh know, it bee in the low 40 degree range to high 30s and it has been raining and has even try to snow a few times this week, go figure thought winter was over but guess it will try to hang on a little longer. So going to get ready to set body on and set the back wall so I can keep working in the interior as well as starting the body work. Still have long way to go but hope to be making good progress soon.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

On the cars we build here, the rear edge of the main dash usually ends up a bit forward from that short frame tube in the tunnel. The car we're working on now, the distance between the rear edge of the dash and front edge of that short tube is about 5/8". The dash needs to be that far forward in order for the leading edge of the dash to sit on the cowl area of the body. If you're going to be putting your body on in the next few days, you'll know soon enough if that is going to work out for you or not.

[jamesfr58]

I can see where there might be a problem if I have to push it up 1/5 to 5/8 inch in front of the small tube. It is sitting right on the edge of the small tube so might have to taper the foam some more for it to slide that far forward. Thanks again for the heads up and I will let you know how it goes.

[jamesfr58]

On a side note, my grandson was over and he is just working way on one of my sons truck. He hit large pothole bent front end parts of we have completely disassembled front end on Dodge 1500, waiting on all the parts and will rebuild. I have been helping but not actually doing the work. Think it is good for them to learn and do the work themselves, and they are willing to learn!!!

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[jamesfr58]

107797For everyone who lives where it is warm, I really wanted to have driven the go kart stage by now and though by the end of May the weather would have been good enough to give it a try but take a look at the picture, we hand anywhere from around 12" to as high as 24" of wet snow two days ago and now have flash flood warnings as it melts. Temperatures as still in the 40 degree range for a high bit thing are looking up supposed to get up into the 50 to 60 this weekend, the end of May …. go figure usually over and can plant a garden by father day but not this year !!

[jamesfr58]

Well haven't posted in a while as life gets in the way sometimes, the wife and kids wanted a boat for the summer and to go fishing on so after some long deliberation I broke down and got them a pontoon boat and have been outfitting it for the last week of so and my office has been keeping in busy as well. Hope they have fun this summer and will have to make a few trips with the family as well so I expect to lose some time this summer on building my GTM.

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The family boat ….. at home, had to drive to Minot ND and back to pick it up.... road trip !!

[jamesfr58]

Anyway got back to working on the interior since the bottom half is done, no working on the waterfall testing my upholstery skills. Here it is covered in a thin layer of 1/8" foam to smooth out the shape. I have the wood work mounted and the cup holders sitting in place making sure everything is going to fit. Have clearance for wrapping the upholstery up over the top to everything should go together as planned. Time will tell, going to attempt to make the cover and get it installed in the next couple of days.

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[crash]

Well haven't posted in a while as life gets in the way sometimes, the wife and kids wanted a boat for the summer and to go fishing on so after some long deliberation I broke down and got them a pontoon boat and have been outfitting it for the last week of so and my office has been keeping in busy as well. Hope they have fun this summer and will have to make a few trips with the family as well so I expect to lose some time this summer on building my GTM.

108705

The family boat ….. at home, had to drive to Minot ND and back to pick it up.... road trip !!

Pontoon boats are awesome. We have a ski boat that we have had for many years and just got a pontoon last year. I think the ski boat only went out twice last year. The kids just love to cruise or go and sit and jump off the upper deck. Who knew? I figured it wouldn't get used that much, but I was wrong. Congrats on the boat, but it definitely will make getting things done on the GTM a challenge.

[Shoeless]

My boat definitely gets in the way summer times. It gets a little toasty in the garage so we shoot over to the Bahamas for a little hard core fishing.

https://i.imgur.com/FB9HBMq.jpg

[tanderson1]

Anyway got back to working on the interior since the bottom half is done, no working on the waterfall testing my upholstery skills. Here it is covered in a thin layer of 1/8" foam to smooth out the shape. I have the wood work mounted and the cup holders sitting in place making sure everything is going to fit. Have clearance for wrapping the upholstery up over the top to everything should go together as planned. Time will tell, going to attempt to make the cover and get it installed in the next couple of days.

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That is a great use of that space.... I may do the same thing. Is that a factory cup holder out of a Buick or Cadillac?

Added benefit the engine heat will keep your coffee warm!

[jamesfr58]

I made the pieces for the cupholder, they are sub-flooring plywood covered with African Rose Wood (Budinga Raw Wood veneer) and I ordered the lighted cupholders from a website that sell them for boats. the thin back piece is made from ABS plastic 1/8" thick and again covered with the wood. All was finished in multiple coats of Spar Urethane (Gloss) then rubbed out and polished. Below if the finished waterfall with cup holders installed and the switch that light them up, they light up green.

Finished water fall with cupholders, and switch that operated the green light in the cup holders
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Here the water fall is setting in the interior so you have an idea of what it looks like installed
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The underside is covered with a thermal sound barrier and then the gold reflective coating was installed. The big hump where the cup holders go is made from blue foam and covered as well.
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[jamesfr58]

Worked on building a piece to cover the hole where the Accumulator was relocated to in my build. I decided to finish closing off the fan section from the remaining open front end. I will cover the piece in the same reflective material and hopefully it will redirect the heat out the hood vents and mitigate the inflow of heat into the tunnel and interior.

[jamesfr58]

Here are the picture of the cover for the Accumulator installed, hit the post button to soon !!

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[jamesfr58]

Shoeless your boat is a little bigger than mine, but they both are fun anyway. Only have to get the anchor winch installed and it is all rigged out and ready to go. Hope you get some good fishing in when out on the water. Have a couple of trips planned already this summer with kids and grandkids should be fun. At least your is in the water, I have to drag mine somewhere, the trailer was a extra add-on had to make sure they added the trailer or would have to drag it down the road, pontoons wont last long.....
Did do some checking on the hydrodynamics of a pontoon boas and may design and skin the underside of the deck. It will add to the speed and prevent the lurching you can get some times with the water hits the aluminum supports under the deck. A project for another day, does not cost much a few sheets of 0.034 aluminum and self drilling screws to solve the drag issue caused by water hitting the underside of the deck and deck supports.

Some how I never seem to run out of projects...…. also have to install new shower in master bedroom bath a week or so when all the parts arrive...no rest for the weary

[Shoeless]

Hey James,

I wish I lived on the water down here in S FL, but that property is so dang expensive. Thankfully my neighborhood has a private boat ramp so I don’t have to deal with the craziness there. The pic I posted above was in a West End Bahamas, we take our boat over there once or twice a year. It’s only about a 3.5 hour boat ride for us on a good calm day. I did get my first Blue Marlin last year, my wife drove the boat perfectly as I manhandled that beast for an hour.

Thankfully my wife enjoys fishing just as much if not more than I do. Over the years she has told me we needed a bigger boat twice LOL, but boy is it a lot of work. I was on her all day today prepping for a week in the Bahamas for 4th of July. I just had a complete rewire job done and we are working out the final bugs before we head over.

I hear yea about the never ending work :cool:

[jamesfr58]

Finished the cover over the accumulator, have heat reflective material on one side and thermal mat on the other so should keep heat away for the accumulator. I screwed the cover on so I can take it off easily if needed for access to the accumulator or the connections for A/C system. This finished the front end, the covers are on and sealed, have a few other small items that I need to finish like the installation of interior lights, they are pulled in and connected just need to finish mounting them. I get done doing one thing, stand back take a look at the GTM and realize I still have all the little things to finish...… I think the list is growing faster that I am getting the items done but it is fun to see it come together. And it all the little thing we all do to our build that give them that personal touch that them our, our vision, our dream and when complete we can all stand back and take in what we accomplished.

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[jamesfr58]

I had a hard time trying to get the golf heat reflecting material to lay down right on the cover as I put a bead roll on the face to stiffen it and had to put a dish on the bottom side to allow room for the sight glass on the front tank. I still might take it off an paint it would look a lot smoother but does not look to bad as is, fit great just wish I could get material to lay down like I want it, won't stretch like the interior material so makes it harder to get around complex shales.

[beeman]

I'm in a similar spot, James. All of those little tedious things that are necessary to finish up, or at least need to be done to get the car registered and on the road.
When applying the foil, did you have someone assisting you to keep it under tension while you laid it down? Did you use an applicator like this? Keep up the great work!
https://www.amazon.com/TECKWRAP-Plastic-Squeegee-Scraper-Applicator/dp/B01ALLUTD0/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=vinyl+application+tools&qid=1560691218&s=gateway&sprefix=vinyl+appl&sr=8-4

[jamesfr58]

First let me say Happy Father Days to all the father out there, for taking the time to pass on their knowledge from building a car (learning mechanic skills) or just taking a kid fishing. Hope you all enjoy the day.

AS to the question you ask Beeman, no I did no have someone helping me and maybe I should have gotten on of my boys down to assist. I have a plastic applicator but know as good as the one you listed above. Think I will do a much better job, so going to get a couple of them. Thanks for the heads up and the applicator, I like the fact is has a softer end to insure no scratches. And if I would post before I have bee in the shop all evening I might of even spelled "gold" right instead of golf as I did above !!

[jamesfr58]

Ok will I could not take the wrinkles in the cover piece for the accumulator so.... I tore it off and recovered it again but this time just used the tape I use to seal the ends of the gold film. It cam out a lot better so I will leave it this way and move on to the next small item to finish.

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[jamesfr58]

On a off topic, I worked on the cover when it was raining, but when it would stop I designed a sub structure for the front end of the pontoon boat to mount a anchor mount that was designed to fit on the back and attach to the pontoon mounts. Since the front of the pontoon narrows, to mount the platform we had to design a substructure to mount the platform to and maintain structural strength with the pull of the anchor or winch. It worked out better than I had envisioned it so thought I would share some pictures.

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[jamesfr58]

Got some smaller thing done, interior lights mounted under dash and fit the waterfall back on the tunnel after making the small belt pieces to cover the seam in the tunnel. The list of smaller things keeps growing bigger I think..... even when working on them to cross them off the list. getting ready to make attempt to tackle recovering the seats and setting the body on to set fire wall. Moving along slower than in the winter, since it is summer now there seems to be more thing that need than I can get done so still working on car just not as much as in the winter when noting to do so going to the shop hanging out down there is not a issue when its to cold to go outside...…

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[jamesfr58]

Opened up the cooling system again today, have been putting this off but got to it yesterday. I replaced the remaining bushing with the reducing fittings (1 1/2 x 1 1/4 90 deg. ells) and a straight (1 1/2 x 1 1/4 coupler) so had to drain again and replace the last pieces with bushings. It stopped the leaks on the one I tried before I got the remaining reducing fittings to replace all the bushings. Here is what they look installed.

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This is the one on the front top radiator connection, it is small enough that it sit where it will no interfere with the body when installed.

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This is the one installed on the water pump side in rear, they cam out looking and fitting better than I thought.

Now on to putting the body on for the first time to set the back fire wall.....

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Those look great!

[jamesfr58]

Started to clean up and final fit parts for my custom build tunnel cover. I have the pieces together with the larger dash piece, a/c vent in proper location to make sure I can get the 7" A/V - GPS system in the dash, the mounting bracket is installed with the bezel in place. So think I have it now and will work on covering the custom piece and finishing the wood work. Haven't driven the go kart yet, need to change oil pan and once it arrives and I get the proper undercar clearance will drive the go-kart for the first time. Here are some pictures of the custom made tunnel cover that houses my switches, the A/V system and a 7" tablet to operate the Infinity Box System when brought on line.

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[jamesfr58]

Finished the center section of the tunnel cover that was pictured above. Do to is shape it could not be covered with out adding a seam so my solution was to cover as much as I could by stretching the material then cutting it down and adding a hand sewn diamond seam like they use on some of the high end cars. While it does not look bad it is not as good as the European car makers and their hand sewn seams, but I tried and it really does not look to bad.

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[jamesfr58]

Still have to finish coating the wood piece where the shifter goes and polish it our to look like the switch panel. This piece goes over the FF5 supplied front tunnel cover and dash piece to get my 7" tablet for the infinity Box system and switched in the GTM. The stitching works with he interior design being kind of rustic if you will using the screws etc. Hope to also add some more wood work on the door panels to help tie all the interior parts together. Hope it all work out right in the end.

[beeman]

Looks really nice, James
How are you securing your tablet?

[jamesfr58]

The tablet sit in the cradle and it has padding on all 4 sides so it hold it in pretty tight. I may have to attach some kind of pull strap to get the tablet out if I need to. And if I have to I will had some hook and loop (Velcro) strips on the back side to insure it stays put in the cradle.

[jamesfr58]

The tablet in the picture is cracked and the touch screen does not work most of the time, was using it a templet and have a new table to fit in the same hole. Though about blaming it on the dog, but alas it was me who dropped the table some time back just not paying attention, but allowed me to build the fiberglass cradle and make all adjustments without having to worry about damaging the table because I already broke the thing. Oh well, and that is the rest of the story !!

[jamesfr58]

While waiting on the smaller oil pan, decided to keep on working on interior. Got the back window wall padded, covered and the gasket for the window done and ready to install. Will fit this into GTM as soon as we get the body mounted. Have been holding off because I want to drive the go kart and need to change the oil pan out to gain 2 inched more in ground clearance before I try to drive it on the streets here, don't want to knock a hole in oil pan on the first drive!!

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View on cockpit side

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Passenger side view of corner inside cockpit

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Driver side view of corner inside cockpit

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Back (engine side) with gold reflective material to match engine bay

[jamesfr58]

Fitting the pieces that cover the center tunnel and the waterfall with cup holders. Was checking out the wiring again and everything worked excepted the lighted window up switch on the drivers side, not sure why but will check it out and get it working. Everything fits pretty good so far (Shane made mention of this in another post that I may have to slide the tunnel cover forward of the cross bar at the joint for the tunnel cover and waterfall piece) but may have to make a few adjustments. All lights and inter cabin lights work with the one exception mentioned above. Moved through all the gears with no issues so there appears to be enough clearance her as well. Will have to custom build a shift boot and ring to fit my tunnel cover design but figure I would need to do this from the start. Once the body is on and the back wall fitted it will be time to reinstall the seats (hope to have them recovered soon) and it not will install before recovered so I can drive the thing, weather is nice now so time to take her for a first drive.

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Passengers side, Drivers side and view from back toward the front

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View from overhead, the pieces fit better that I thought so don know if I will do anything at the joint between the waterfall and the tunnel cover, will have to wait till the body is on the remain dash sections installed to make final decision. But it is coming along again....

[jamesfr58]

Thanks to Jkviper I got a different oil pan that he had for a LS3 that is a lot better suited for my GTM build. It turned into quite a chore and if I had been thinking far enough ahead I would have made sure this got changed a lot earlier. But we did get the new oil pan installed and now it look like is should and like the pictures VRaptor posted showing the oil pan and the ground clearance. Was not sure I could get it in without pulling the motor but with some help and luck we unbolted the engine mounts after removing the exhaust and the air intake and removed the two top bold on the very back frame holding the transmission, while loosening the bottom bolts so the could tip up and were able to move to get just enough to get he oil pan to clear the pickup tube and in turn get the new pick up tube and oil pan installed. Below are a couple of pictures of the before and after new oil pan installation.

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The before picture with pan hanging 2" below the frame

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The after picture with the new oil pan, pick up tube, and dip stick now tucked to most of the way just above or even with the frame.

Again thanks to Joel for offering his LS3 pan and accessories after making an engine change, they work great.

[Jkviper]

Thanks to Jkviper I got a different oil pan that he had for a LS3 that is a lot better suited for my GTM build. It turned into quite a chore and if I had been thinking far enough ahead I would have made sure this got changed a lot earlier. But we did get the new oil pan installed and now it look like is should and like the pictures VRaptor posted showing the oil pan and the ground clearance. Was not sure I could get it in without pulling the motor but with some help and luck we unbolted the engine mounts after removing the exhaust and the air intake and removed the two top bold on the very back frame holding the transmission, while loosening the bottom bolts so the could tip up and were able to move to get just enough to get he oil pan to clear the pickup tube and in turn get the new pick up tube and oil pan installed. Below are a couple of pictures of the before and after new oil pan installation.

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The before picture with pan hanging 2" below the frame

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The after picture with the new oil pan, pick up tube, and dip stick now tucked to most of the way just above or even with the frame.

Again thanks to Joel for offering his LS3 pan and accessories after making an engine change, they work great.

Awesome, glad you could put those parts to good use. Looking forward to seeing the first start!

[jamesfr58]

Well with the new oil pan installed, and the replacement specialty silicone fittings on the cooling system we finally got her back up an running. Ran it up to temperature and finished filling the cooling system and all looks good. No more weeping leaks where the bushings were installed in the cooling system and no leaks on the oil pan replacement. Has been setting now 2 days after the last engine run and not a drop on the floor (Amen) so think we have this problem solved. Going to install the drivers seat again and recheck the slave cylinder in the clutch, then it our for her first drive...…

[jamesfr58]

Got some of the bottom panels located and in place to cover the tunnel and all the wiring and plumbing that is running through the tunnel. We have a lot of gravel roads and just to get to the good/paved roads I need to travel down gravel roads so decided to insure the bottom was at least covered for the first drive. The bottom NACA Duct Belly Pan Small Trapezoid and Louvered Belly Pan Center Narrow Panel were provide by Shane (VRaptor Speedworks) and integrated seamlessly with the panels supplied by FFR.

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[jamesfr58]

Here is the routing for my cable shift lines and the hydraulic line tot he clutch slave cylinder. I ran them close to the engine next to the oil pan as it kept them further away from the exhaust leaving the BBK headers on my LS3. Both lines are cable shift lines and hydraulic line are wrapped in thermal protection as well. Know it is different than many other who run these lines down the frame, so though I would let every one see the routing and if anyone has any comment as to how this configuration will work please let me know as it is still no to hard to change routing if needed.

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[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

I think that all looks like it should work well. The key on the shift cables is to make sure you don't have them clamped tight or even zip ties tied tight around them anywhere in the engine bay. If they do get warm, the outer sheath softens and will allow the clamp or zip tie to compress the sheath tight to the cable and will lock the cable up tight to where you can't move it at all.

[beeman]

Looking great! There's just something cool about NACA ducts. And those look well-designed with the vertical edges. A lot of "NACA ducts" out there are poorly designed...

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Looking great! There's just something cool about NACA ducts. And those look well-designed with the vertical edges. A lot of "NACA ducts" out there are poorly designed...

Thanks!! ;-)

[jamesfr58]

The cables are not tied or clamped, the U-bolt in the picture is not tight against the cables but used as guide only, they are lose in the U-bolt. Thanks Shane for the heads up on wire ties or tie downs, thought that was the case from other post so designed to ride in the guides without clamping down on the cables. And thanks again for the undercarriage parts they really worked great.

[Shoeless]

You are making some serious progress James and it looks great. Now that I have got my summer fishing out of my system, I'm back on the GTM and making a point of doing something related to it each day. My next task is insulating the garage door so I can actually get out there in these hot summer months.

Keep up the great work!!!

[jamesfr58]

Got the seat sliders installed in the drivers side now that the carpet is installed. Here is a couple of shots of the sliders in place with out the seat.

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Here the drivers seat is installed, almost ready to drive. Found a leak in my clutch hydraulic line at a union joint (was working the clutch and it was working as it should) but under pressure had a leak so am making a new section of line and will replace tomorrow.

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[jamesfr58]

Well it has been one of those days, went to replace the bad hydraulic fitting and short piece of hard line from the tube union to the connection at the AN flex hose to the clutch slave cylinder. Well of course I had to open the system again, so hydraulic fluid everywhere again, seemed a shame as I finally had the slave cylinder working right with now air (not mushy at all) and had to open it again. Got the line replaced and reloaded the master cylinder, hooked up the power bleeder and started pushing oil through the system. Blead it back at the salve cylinder into the catch bottle the first time and forgot to release the pressure on the catch bottle (30 psi) when I pulled it off the bleeder and it shot hydraulic fluid everywhere, this was mistake number 1 on the day. Checked the clutch and it was soft after a couple of pumps do hooked up power bleeder again and this time grabbed the wrong cap for the master cylinder (right size wrong thread) screwed it on and pressured up the master cylinder to bleed it again. Well hydraulic fluid started pouring out of the master cylinder top at the cap all down the front, so in a hurry to try and get the leak shut down, I again pulled the catch bottle off the master cylinder bleeder under pressure and shot more hydraulic fluid down the front end. Needless to say, I really had a mess on the floor and on the front end of the GTM. So, I spent the next few hours wiping everything down and dropped the belly pans to get to the puddles setting on them. Floor dry down to soak up the mess and cleaning up all the spray from pulling the catch bottle off.

I did finally get the slave cylinder working and think I have all the air out but will work the clutch and if needed I will bleed again. Was a long afternoon and all I could do was laugh at myself, better than crying in the spilled oil! Funny thing is you know how to do it right but still make multiple mistakes like today, attribute it to a brain fart or just getting older not sure which.

Hope tomorrow goes better…….

[crash]

Just a heads up- Brake fluid will eat away at most coatings and paints. It must be COMPLETELY cleaned up. That's the bad news. The good news is that brake fluid is water soluble, so you can get rid of it by washing down the area with a hose. Not super convenient if the car is in the garage in jack stands, but still easier to push the water of the garage than it is to resurface everything the brake fluid could damage.

[jamesfr58]

Thanks for the heads up on it being water soluble, did not know that, but wiped as much as I could last night. Can remove from lift and roll outside to wash so will do that today. Yea I really made a mess !!

[jamesfr58]

Crash,

Got all the break fluid washed and cleaned off again thanks did not know it was water soluble.

Got the undercarriage pieces all drilled, coated and installed with the exception of the two panels that cover the area where the seats bolt through. Will finish these when seats are installed for the final time. Here is what they look like finished and installed.

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[jamesfr58]

Finished the under carriage close out, located and mounted the last 2 panels they are not coated yet as they will have to be removed again to remove and re-install my seat rails and seats but did go ahead and locate and mount them to get this part out of the way.

111941

[jamesfr58]

With the exception of installing some heat shielding around starter and the A/C compressor the go kart is mechanically complete and here are a few pictures of it sitting on the ground. Will take it out for its first drive then the body goes on to continue installation of interior and building the doors, hatch etc. Maybe 1/2 the interior is already complete or in some stage of completion but body has to go on now to locate firewall and firewall window piece and fit the rest of the dash. This is what it looks like now ready for it first drive.....

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[Jkviper]

Looks great james, coming along. Also, I like those comp grey wheels, very nice.

[jamesfr58]

Got busy in the shop today and got the passenger’s seat (or just the bottom seat part) mounted and in place, left back off to make it lighter and will have to remove anyway when them get recovered.

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Seat travels a few inches, one picture seat all the way forward, one picture seat all the way back. The passengers side does not have the same spacing between the tunnel and the out side frame as the drivers side does.


Removed the exhaust and wing supports for now so I could mount the body for the first time. Below are a few pictures of the body on the frame for the first time.

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[jamesfr58]

The rear tires seem to line up pretty well with the body, will have to final adjust but not looking to bad now. The rear of the body is sitting on approximately 9” block between the transmission support and the body.

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[jamesfr58]

Had to make a few adjustments to the CAI but if is fit in place and you can see the clearance between the hatch and the rea fender wells below. I still have the air filters attached and they are sitting in the area that they will be final mounted. May have to rework for hatch hinges but so not know yet as they have been removed from the GTM.

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Here is tape indicating the measurements between the throttle body and the MAF and the end of the Y and the MAF for reference. Any comments are appreciated if it need to me moved but would need to install in one 3" section only prior to the 4" section it is in now.
112179

[beeman]

A great feeling to have the body on! You have had your wheels aligned already, right?
Looks like your MAF is 7-1.5"=5.5" from the beginning of the straight intake tube. That's awfully close to 6" and a heck of a lot better than most GTM (and SL-C for that matter) setups I see. Flipping around that tube with your MAF on it should get you over 6" and would be simple (I don't have the bung type MAF, I'm assuming you can flip it in the mount?)

[KGTM]

James,

what do you use your ISIS for?
Also how did you route your PCV valve hose?

Thanks,
Mostafa

[jamesfr58]

Beeman,

Yes the wheels are aligned, shop here is town did it moved on trailer there and back but will check alignment one more time when finished. I can flip the tube the MAF sensor will still go in in the right direction if I flip the tube the mount screws will work even if you flip the tube. Will take a look at doing that and get some more measurements when I rework the support holding the CAI system, need to shorten the height. Yea kind of a milestone and now really starting to look like a car !!

[Shoeless]

Looking great James!!! Definitely a milestone for sure.

You can also think about putting an air straightener in there (simple honeycomb) up stream of the MAF sensor. I’m sure when the GM manual was put together the length measurement for the location of the MAF was for a single tube intake. I’m betting the dual intake will cause additional turbulence in the intake that may cause issues. Just a thought, may or may not be a problem.

[jamesfr58]

Mostafa

If you are referring to the Infinity Box CAN-Bus system I have installed, as you probably notice the rear power cell in the pictures, I have 2 power cells one front and one back and a In-Motion module along with a In-Environment module for controlling the Vintage Air and a In-Touch module to communicate with the table installed on the top or the center tunnel cover. The In-Motion module controls the windows etc. that need to reverse current to move in two directions. The front power cell controls all the functions from the dash forward, lights, turn, interior lights, wipers etc. and the rear power cell control all the functions required at the rear, lights, turn signals, reverse lights and all power requirements from the cab to the rear end.

I only have 4 relays in the entire car and the Infinity Box system handles the rest through the Master Cell (computer brains of the unit) and is connected to each of the cells and modules. I have RFID keyless ignition, E-Stop electric parking brake, door poppers and rear hatch popper all controlled through or interfaced with the Infinity Box CAN-Bus system, it eliminated the need to run a lot of heavy wirer back and forth through the tunnel, only power wires to the power cells and two small control wires from the Master Cell to power cell to run everything in the rear of the car with the exception of the stand alone control (ECU) for the engine, but it is interfaced with the Infinity Box system.

Guess the simple answer is it runs all the electronics required to operate the GTM and accessories with no relays (except for A/C, Fan Controllers, high fan and low fan RPM window switch to cut compressor out over 5000 RPM, the 4 relays I did install due to current draw or no interface built into system) and a reduction in heavy wiring, and allows me to control the entire GTM system from the tablet in the car or my iPhone or another tablet.

Hope this is what you were asking, but if not let me know and I will attempt get you the right answer. Thanks

I don't not have a PCV valve on my engine build, he hose connected the CAI in the picture draws filter air into what would be the draw for a PVC valve. I came off the connection on the engine with a hose to a piece if stainless tubing that I bent to loop around back toward the CAI and went back to hose with stainless steel jacket and hose connectors from Summit Racing.

[jamesfr58]

Sean,

Yea, bet a vane straightener would help once the two sides come together to straighten out the flow and eliminate the turbulence. I'll see what I can find to do the job. And thanks for the comments, they help all of us in figuring out a better or more appropriate way of getting the job done.

[jamesfr58]

put the drivers side door up to the body and taped in place to check the clearance against the seat to make sure I did not have an interference problem. Did not think so when I decided to used the seats from a fox body mustang but was not sure until I had the body on and the door to check the fit. Now can breath a sigh of relief as I know I can them to work now...…

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[Edgeman]

112210
I like the single intake. JMHO

[beeman]

112210
I like the single intake. JMHO

James' setup is superior to the one that you have pictured, the MAF is essentially on an elbow, probably confusing the pcm to some degree.

That being said, I went with a single intake for simplicity and more importantly because I couldn't find 6" of straight intake pipe in front of the throttle body for the MAF in a dual intake because of where the Kooks exhaust lies. It might be possible with the FFR exhaust.

112225

[Roger Reid]

Here is a product that claims to smooth out the airflow before a MAF. I still wouldn't put an MAF in a middle of the bend.

https://performancemrp.com/i-30497566-4-diameter-aluminium-honeycomb-air-straightener-screen.html?ref=category:1389190

[Edgeman]

The MAF is under the hatch hinge not on the bend, it has the right amount of straight spacing and worked perfect. I don't see his set up having the right amount of spacing.

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[KGTM]

Jame, I thought that was infinity box, I just did not see all the wires connected so was not sure what it was driving.

Do you have 3 out and one input?

How do you do side mirrors?

How much power does it draw when ignition is off? have heard is really bad.

I sort of have my own system, I think is is better, I have have only one relay so far and that is for my power steering, and not real fuse box, expect the crate ECU stuff.

A lots of stuff to get working though.

[jamesfr58]

Mostafa

I have 2 power supply lines to each Power Cell (front & back) and have use all the front power cell, on the back one you can see the wires I have six outputs so I did not use all the connections on the back power cell (at least not yet) and as to power draw, well it does draw some power for sure.

Not sure how long it will take to drain the battery enough so it won't start as I have been disconnection it while working on GTM. I have a battery cut off switch installed in the front that will turn the Infinity Box system off (the ECU for the create motor remain powered) so in this state it acts like any other car and the battery stay up for some time. I will have to check it out with the Infinity Box system on to see how long it takes to drain the battery enough so it won't start.

Yes I am going to have power adjusting side mirrors when done. I have not done anything with the circuit for them yet, and intend to build my own system to power the mirrors.

[jamesfr58]

Thanks Rodger, I will check it out and plan on adding a flow straightener.

[KGTM]

I saw a picture you had that has lot of stuff and relays and Radar and so on, how to you get to these after you put the dash on? I am having enough dealing with radios and wires to them.

Thanks,
Mostafa

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

If Infinitybox hasn't made any significant changes in the past 10 years or so, the Infinitybox system will drain the battery down to below 12V in about 2-3 days....which realistically takes the battery down to about 50%. I'm the one who convinced them to come up with the inReserve system to cut power to the system to prevent this. With the inReserve installed, the car can literally sit for months without issue....with only power wired direct to the stereo memory and ECU "hot" wire.

As for the power mirrors, if you are using a conventional power mirror switch to control them, there's really no need for any complicated electronics to control them as the power mirror switch already does everything you need.....all you need is power and ground to the switch.

[jamesfr58]

Shane

Thanks for the information as I really did not know how long it would last if connected to the Infinity Box system. I should look into getting the inReserve and installing it as I am sure I will not remember to manually shut it down every time. As mentioned I have the system on a battery cut off switch now but would have to remember to turn on and off all the time. I have done the same thing with the head unit (stereo, GPS & Nav.) and the hot wire to ECU are all on constant power separate from the Infinity Box system. I ca in fact start the engine and drive it with the Infinity Box system off line. The Dakota Digital fan controller is on two separate relays as is the create engine with its own ECU. I installed a Digital Dawg RFID keyless system that operates as a stand alone system with the exception of the safety switch (clutch switch) that is the only interface with the Infinity Box system and if needed I can fool it to get the car started and running. With the Digital Dawg RFID system I have Acc. 1 power (no ignition power on) Acc. 2 (ignition power on) then start, worked out good for LED lights, radio and items I might want to have running for car show etc. with the Infinity Box system offline.

I was planning on controlling the mirrors as you mentioned above they will not be tied into the Infinity Box system.

[jamesfr58]

Mostafa,

I relocated all the modules from the fist location under the dash in my early pictures to down on the kick boards. I can access them all (Dakota Digital dash controller, GPS, fan controller and the Escort 9500ci controller even with the dash on from inside the cockpit. The are hidden under the lighter color covers you can see on the kick boards on each side of the cockpit under the dash.

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[jamesfr58]

Headed down to the shop, got a long way to go to finish but wanted to ask the forum has anyone ever fabricated an X-pipe system (other than the Kooks exhaust) for the GTM using the J-pipes supplied by FFR? Looking at different ways to route the exhaust and still have them exit the same location as the H-pipe system.

[beeman]

If I was doing a custom exhaust, it would stay below the rear frame X-bars and exit lower in the bumper or even the diffuser. That would allow room for a shallow "trunk" above the X-bars.
I'm actually thinking about having a shop do a shorty exhaust for me that exits through the hatch just after the headers for track days like the 918. It would be LOUD. :cool:

[claybags]

James,
I used BBK shorty headers, FFR J pipes, fabbed the rest, Bought an X pipe on the forum, thru 8" bullets, then exits under the body and diffuser
Cheers, Jeff

[Roger Reid]

I used the Kooks exhaust set up for my GTM. On my current build (SLC) I am using the LS7 stock headers from a C6 Z06. Here is a link as to what has been done by other builders.

https://www.gt40s.com/threads/kens-slc-build-thread.38446/post-509027

The LS7 headers can be sourced from eBay fairly cheep. They are stainless and SS tubing bends are available.

[crash]

I am a big fan of stock headers as they tend to not leak when installed properly. It is getting hard to find the LS3 center dump headers these days, but the LS7 ones are still on ebay. If you are doing anything but an LS7 the center dump LS3 headers are easier to work with since they have a round output as opposed to the LS7 oval. I have personally built over 600 HP using stock LS3 intake and exhaust manifolds. There is nothing wrong with either. If you don't mind moving coils around you can also flip the manifolds upside down and swap side to side and then the exhaust does not go down by the transaxle/axles...

[Roger Reid]

...If you are doing anything but an LS7 the center dump LS3 headers are easier to work with since they have a round output as opposed to the LS7 oval...

Good point Crash.

[KGTM]

wow, 2 3 day is really bad for Infinitybox , I just hate having to enable and disable this all the time, should at least last few weeks or may be a month or so. these car for most part in weekend cars.

I hope to get my stuff under 50ma, but seems hard right now, with all the dash, radio and controls and remotes, that should last 20 day to about %50 battery.

Mostafa

[jamesfr58]

Crash

I am using BBK direct replacement headers for Corvette on my LS3 (585 HP when tested after build on stand), they are more or less center dump like the stock headers. Thanks for the information it is interesting to see your configuration as I can see how this might work better. I am still looking at how to route the exhaust and will make final decision since the body is on now and I can see what I have to work with. It is so tight using the J-pipes and H-pipe furnished by FFR since I have transmission from 996 G2 and the transition place done by Kennedy Engineered Products is much larger than the one furnished by FFR for the G-50 transmission. Will check out several ideas and pick one.

[jamesfr58]

Thanks Rodger, knew there had to be some different options and still looking at what I want to do. Looks a lot different now the body is on and I can see what available options there are for routing the exhaust.

[jamesfr58]

Rodger

Awhile back you had a sway bar for sale do you still have it? Would like to add them to my GTM but cannot fit the one build by Ted on the front as I have to much in the way to get it through where it is located and am not going to move everything to fit it in.

[Roger Reid]

Rodger

Awhile back you had a sway bar for sale do you still have it? Would like to add them to my GTM but cannot fit the one build by Ted on the front as I have to much in the way to get it through where it is located and am not going to move everything to fit it in.

James. No, nothing for sale. I only made the one unit for my car. I can post some pics if you would like to see what I did. Let me know.

[crash]

BTW- If you are looking for a combination crossover and muffler in a very compact package you can see what I run on the race cars here...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmFPrDyScHI

[jamesfr58]

Thanks for the information Crash, I will definitely take a look

[jamesfr58]

Rodger thanks for the reply and yes I would like to see what you built for your car. Still looking for options in the sway bar department so any information you are willing to share would be greatly appreciated.

[crash]

Here's a couple of pics of the finished product in the GTM. I left it so we could use the rear facing intake or the front facing, which is what we currently run.

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[jamesfr58]

Here is my solution to the taillights I wanted to use in the GTM. Had to build all the pieces to make the lights work and flush mount as I had envisioned. The lights are 4” Round Mirage Double Vision Red Clear LED lights. They however did not have any mounting holes of standoff to screw to and were meant to be mounted using a rubber grommet with/with out a large chrome trim ring. Well nothing fit the application need to mount in the GTM. So, after a lot a scratching and a trip to the local farm and ranch store where I carried one of the lights looking for some inspiration, I finally stumble across some 4” PVS fitting that I decided would work when cut down. Below are the two pieces I started with:

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Here is what the light looks like when on, was testing the wiring and as you can see it has the large rubber grommet on the light. This is the brake light on:

112427

I needed the clean-out hub to slide the light into, they will mount from the back and slide into the smaller part of the hub until they hit the step-up ring on the light. The 4” coupling was turned down a little to fit the opening on the GTM and then slid the hub into the coupling. The fabricated ¼” thick rings will slide into GTM taillight hole and the light will slide from the back side of the ring to the sops on the lights. Will fabricate a bracket for the back side as all I need to do now is hold the lights in the rings.

I needed the clean-out hub to slide the light into, they will mount from the back and slide into the smaller part of the hub until they hit the step-up ring on the light. The 4” coupling was turned down a little to fit the opening on the GTM and then slid the hub into the coupling. The fabricated ¼” thick rings will slide into GTM taillight hole and the light will slide from the back side of the ring to the sops on the lights. Will fabricate a bracket for the back side as all I need to do now is hold the lights in the rings.

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The rings are now glassed into he back of the GTM and I will build the brackets later this weekend. Here is what they will look like installed, they are sitting in the rings as they came out flush mounted. I don’t plan to have any trim ring, will finish them and paint the whole fixture then install the lights when painted. Should look good when done.

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[beeman]

Should look good when done.

Looks great already.

[jamesfr58]

Thanks for the pictures Crash, it opens up possibilities for sure....

[jamesfr58]

Finished up the taillights today, below is the bracket made to hold them in from backside:

112556

This is the bracket as it will be installed, I plan to use panel adhesive to attach the bracket to the GTM and will long step-down piece will be bolted to the bracket standoffs:

112557
I used the above for template and made some out of heavier 1/8" material.

Here are the lights installed and powered up as we checked out the wiring. I tried to get picture of the Mirage Double Vision lights you can see how they are designed but look much better in real life.

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[jamesfr58]

Here is a video of the lights in operation, it will give you an idea of what they look like working:


https://youtu.be/sxJ-5DMNqBw

[jamesfr58]

Off subject, but thought I would share, did not get to work on the GTM Saturday as I participated in a car show in Gillette Wyoming for their Summer Fest Days. It was small they are trying to grow the event so one of the sponsors ask if I would bring my 1932 Little Duce Coupe over with another friend of mine who was bring a 1933 Ford. They have been trying to get it going and trying to draw more hot rods and custom cars. Drove it from Newcastle WY to Gillette about 100 miles one way and was luck as it did not rain or storm, it has no wipers and no side window so it really is a fair weather car. We drive it around the Black Hills in the summer it really is a blast and we get a lot of looks.

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Can't wait to get the GTM done and take it for a tour around the Black Hills, Newcastle WY is on the west side of the Black Hills and about 50 mile to Mount Rushmore.

[jamesfr58]

Here is a view at the show in down town Gillette, the 33 nest to my yellow 32 nose is my friend and a really nice car.

112565

[KGTM]

Jame,
Looks nice.
What do the lights look like for backup? it is hard to seed colors with video. so Yellow and red Led with clear lens?

[KGTM]

BTW, the yellow car is crazy, hope noting hit the button of that car, it is better than top of my car.

Mostafa

[jamesfr58]

Mostafa

The lights are red and I am adding backup lights lower down in the body they will be separate LED lights. I have had them hooked up and know they do work when transmission in put into reverse. Just have to decide where they are going to go, and will more than likely wait until I have the diffuser installed to get a good look at the rear end when complete.

Thanks for the compliment, it really is a fun little car to play with. The bottom hold up really well and the way it is designed it is not real easy to get something to bounce under the car when driving. I have been driving it around now since 2106 (but only in the summer good weather) and it does not have any chips on bottom yet anyway. Got it driving in 2016 then got my GTM (next car project) in October 2016, that way had something to do through the long winters we get here.

[jamesfr58]

Mostafa

Guess I should have answered the question better, they are red with clear lens and mirrored so you cannot se into the lights unless they are lighted up.

[KGTM]

You are much better craftsman than I can ever be.

I am doing all light in tail so no lower backup light, almost there as they are a bit complex in lighting


Mostafa



Mostafa

[jamesfr58]

Finished mounting taillights here is the finished bracket in place:

112742

Moving on to fit up the back hatch, have it fit and hinges on it move up and down within the designated space but there is definitely some body work to do the make seems even and flow from hatch through to fenders. Here is the hatch attached and sitting in place:

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Filmed a very short video of the hatch opening as it should, it pulls up and away from the body as it is raised:


https://youtu.be/WBVv5nbLFoM

Slowly getting it together but still have a mountain of body work to complete...

[jamesfr58]

Got down tot he shop again today, have to leave for a week on Sunday and then again in September so trying to get a few thing done. I built the wire harness for the tail lights, go to attach it to the body and add a 3 way waterproof connection to connect to the power cell. Will be able to unplug then at the power cell and leave the lights in place to lift the body off:

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[jamesfr58]

Still working on the rear end section making the cutout needed to assemble the GTM, got to the wing today and have it mounted through the body and in place:

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You can see the hatch clears the wing to you can open the engine compartment without removing the wing:

112797

[jamesfr58]

Have to give a shout to Shane at VRaptor for the weld in wing mounts, they worked perfectly and allow for a small hole to be cut in the body to get the wing mounted directly to the frame and not the body. you can see from the pictures it does not take much to get them through the body and the wing mounted:

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[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

You're making some great progress! Lookin' good!!

[jamesfr58]

Got the steering wheel changed today and work on the back hatch again. I worked on aligning the hatch door making adjustments in the hinges in an attempt to get it centered better in the opening and got the lift cylinders installed so trying to adjust to a happy medium that I can work with. It did not come out exactly like I wanted it but it opens and closes without hitting wing and when all the way open it does not touch the body either so for now will live with it the way it is. I did get the hatch hinges from Shane (VRaptor Speedworks) and they would have worked just fine it I had not run the CAI the way I did, but would rather change to the lifts or possible modify Shane's hinges, I will look at possibly modifying the when I return from the lake. Off in a family outing Sunday for a week so will cut into my build progress but will keep everyone else happy especially the wife.... So to here are some pictures of the hatch again with the hinges installed showing the alignment and how it is now sitting:

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And here is the new steering wheel installed and it does make it easier the get in and out of the GTM:

112884

[jamesfr58]

Crash,

I have a question, can you run or have you run a small permanent by-pass before the heater control valve (assuming you are using the on supplied by Vintage Air) to insure water on both sides of the thermostat? Seem you could add a 1/4" - 3/8" Tee and by-pass a small flow to insure there is always water on the thermostat. Just asking the question as then no matter what happens to the heater control valve there will always be flow on both side of the thermostat.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

James.....have you tried installing the hatch props both ways? With your intake like that, it looks like things will be pretty tight, but you might try installing with the short links on the props to the hinge links and attach the long links to the hatch?

[crash]

You could try that. I have not. I figure there is a reason these valves exist. If it were as easy as a small bypass, I don't know why the OEMs would go to the cost and trouble of making the bypass valve?


Crash,

I have a question, can you run or have you run a small permanent by-pass before the heater control valve (assuming you are using the on supplied by Vintage Air) to insure water on both sides of the thermostat? Seem you could add a 1/4" - 3/8" Tee and by-pass a small flow to insure there is always water on the thermostat. Just asking the question as then no matter what happens to the heater control valve there will always be flow on both side of the thermostat.

[beeman]

You could try that. I have not. I figure there is a reason these valves exist. If it were as easy as a small bypass, I don't know why the OEMs would go to the cost and trouble of making the bypass valve?

Probably just for cabin comfort, keeping that hot coolant out of the cabin unless the heater is on?

[jamesfr58]

Thanks Shane, I will look at installing them again had planned on doing that but been gone for a week so have not had a chance yet. Hopefully will get to some this week before I leave for the NASCAR races in Vegas next weekend.

[jamesfr58]

You guys might be right to keep heat out of the cabin but is running the Infinity box temperature control it will use but heat and air to control the interior temperature as happens in OEM installation in other cars. That is why I was asking the question Mike as I had not seen any try this configuration either.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Crash,

I have a question, can you run or have you run a small permanent by-pass before the heater control valve (assuming you are using the on supplied by Vintage Air) to insure water on both sides of the thermostat? Seem you could add a 1/4" - 3/8" Tee and by-pass a small flow to insure there is always water on the thermostat. Just asking the question as then no matter what happens to the heater control valve there will always be flow on both side of the thermostat.

We're going to find out. I see no reason this would not work. I just purchased a "manual" coolant shut-off from NAPA for the 5/8 hose to the heater core as well as 2 Tee fittings....one for the 5/8 coolant hose and one for the 3/4 coolant hose...both tees have a 3/8" T in the center.....so the 3/4 hose and 5/8 hose will be permanently connected with a 3/8 hose. When the petcock is closed in the manual shut off, that will dead-head the 5/8 line to the heater core and 100% of the coolant will have to run thru the 3/8 tee into the 3/4 hose. When the petcock is open (if you want heat for the winter) coolant can flow thru the heater core as well as the 3/8 tee. I plan on installing the shut off up front under the hood near the heater core so it's accessible whenever winter rolls around and you want to run coolant thru the heater core.

[jamesfr58]

Well, got the third brake light working today, had to dig back into the Infinity Box system and rework the wiring. Of course I had already removed all the unused wires from the Master Cell and the rear Power Cell, so had to add a control wire back in the Master Cell that took some time and add a wire back to the rear power cell, not to bad to get this task done. I had wired the lights, turn and brake lights as mentioned in previous post but when trying to wire the third brake light it finally dawned on me that if I tied it into one of the lead to the rear lights then the third brake light would blink with the turn signal or at least I figured it would so used another circuit on the power cell to power the rear brake light. Here is a picture of the back with the third brake light wired:

113904

Here it is with the drivers side turn signal on and the passenger side and third brake light on:

113905

I never tried it wired into one of the 1 element wires to the rear lights and really not sure if it would have worked or flashed with turn signal on the side it was wired to but know it will work this way.

[jamesfr58]

Well made it back from Las Vegas and the first race of the NASCAR play off races. It was hot (100 + during the day) there like last year but at least they moved the races to night races instead of the middle of the day. The weather was good and here is picture of the full moon on the night of the truck races.

114593

Got the air flow straightener (vane straightener) installed in place in the Y upstream of the MAF so should help with the close quarters of my CAI system.

114594