CV2065 MKIV Build Thread - Graduated!

[cv2065]

OK guys. I've been posting for a while and thought I'd make it official and get a build thread rolling. So here's what we have to work with, as well as mods that I've planned.

MKIV Complete Kit
Powder Coated Chassis
IRS
Body with Cutouts
Black Vinyl Roadster Seats
Power Steering Kit
Standard Width LCA
GPS Gauges
Halibrand Replica 17"x9" Front and 17"x10.5" Rear
Stainless Exhaust
Wind Wings/Sun Visors
Wiper Kit
Brake Duct Wire Mesh
Battery Cutoff
Vinyl Dash with Glovebox
Roll Bar - Powder Coated Black
Roll Bar Grommets
Assembled Side Louvers
Center Dash Support
Leather Steering Wheel

Other Upgrades
Russ Thompson Turn Signals
Breeze Seat Frames
LED Headlights
Forte Hydraulic Clutch
Forte Mechanical Accelerator Linkage
Exhaust Heat Shields - Finish Line
Cobra Floormats - Finish Line
Trunk Carpeting - FFR
Nose Aluminum - Replica Parts
Front Battery Box - Breeze
Radiator Shroud - Breeze
Radiator Shroud Cover
Boig Cool Tubes
Breeze Power Steering Hose upgrade
Upper and Lower Radiator Supports - Breeze
Triple 1482 Reservoir Kit w/Pressure Bleeder Lid- CNC
Roadster Radiator Panel - Replica Parts
Seat Belt and Steering Hole Trim
USB Ports
Radiator Honeycomb Protector - Speedway
Cipher Racing Belts
Billet Side Mirrors - Gloss Black - Dream Cars
Powder Coated Everything (All Panels)
Tire stickers
Metco Safety Strap
Rockville Marine Bluetooth Stereo and 12" Subwoofer
Kenwood Marine Amp and Polk Audio Marine speakers

Engine/Trans
Blueprint 427 (Carb'd)
Tremec TKO 600

[cv2065]

Took delivery this past Tuesday. Warren the driver was great. I didn't think he'd be able to get that 18 wheeler in my neighborhood, but somehow, he did it. Had a great "we'll get this done" attitude the entire time and really gave himself a workout in this hot Florida humidity! Great experience with Stewart...

Sorry about the pics...not sure why some of them came out upside down. Anyone know how to rotate them?

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[cv2065]

Here's the workshop. You'd think with a 3 car garage I'd have more space to move around in, but not so much. Thinking about selling my Harley, but I built that golf cart for the wife and she'd probably get nasty if I tried to sell it. Either way, we'll make it work!
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[cv2065]

Just finished up inventory yesterday. Easy to get into the weeds with some of those bags when it comes to washers, bolts and electrical connectors, but I'm a bit uptight like that so had to count everything. Seems like I'm missing the following right out of the gate.

Spring Hat
Spring Collar
Steering Wheel Boss (Was hoping to get this to Russ Thompson!)
E-Brake Hardware Pack and Cables
Front Spindles
Rear Brake Pads
31 Spline Drive Shaft
Halibrand Lugs, Spinners, Nuts, Cover and Adaptors

Some things that said they were in the boxes but I couldn't find:
Plastic Gas Cap
Driver Footbox Front Patch Cover
Fuel Strap Block Off Plate
Wiper Hole Tool (Not sure what this looks like)
Clutch Quadrant Stop
Fuel Tank Cover
Filler Neck Retaining Ring
Center Dash Support Instructions
Glove Box Hinges (Left and Right)

So not too terrible, but hopefully they all come in quickly. I've already sent the list to FFR, so we'll see.

[cv2065]

So, started evaluating the panels tonight. Seems like they all line up pretty good, with maybe just a couple of tweaks.

First hole is the hardest right? Can anyone identify where is a common place to trim? I can't really see an area that is off so much that I'd want to trim it, but then again, not sure what areas are to be flush with the top of the frame and which aren't. For example, the two rear panels extend about a graduated inch above the small rail. Shown in picture below. The area right behind the Dr. Pepper bottle. Both sides are like that, so I'm assuming that they are correct, but thought I'd check.

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I've read where some go ahead and just drill the panel and the frame at the same time, and where others drill the panels first then hang them and drill through the frame. I think I'm going to do the latter and work on a section at a time with the clecos.

[edwardb]

Several comments:

- Don't trim those trunk sides. That's where the bulb seal attaches. I can say with high confidence -- the sheet metal on the Roadster has been refined to the point that there will be little/no trimming. Basically, if you think something needs to be trimmed, check the instructions and how you have it assembled. Specifically check you have the overlaps in the right order. They're that precise. At this stage, you may need to nip a little here and there to clear a weld, but that's about it. Later when fitting the body, you may need to trim some. But not now.

- I'm definitely in the drill the aluminum first and then drill in the chassis. Then cleco as you go.

- For you parts listing, I'm assuming the first group are on your Parts Order List (POL). Some of those would be pretty big items to be missed. Plus are common shortage items. POL items should arrive over the next weeks without you doing anything. But doesn't hurt to ask.

- For the second group, couple things to check. Don't think you need the clutch quadrant stop with your hydraulic clutch. Those block-off plates are small rectangles that are likely in the loose aluminum box. Would be easy to miss. The gas tank cover is shipped in the box with the gas tank. They're assembled. Sure it's not there? The wiper gauge should be in the box with the rest of the optional wiper parts. It's a welded piece with a bushing to drill the holes in the body. Would be pretty hard to miss. For the dash and glovebox hinges, they're really not typical hinges. Just bent plates that you bond to the back of the door. Check this post that describes it: https://www.ffcars.com/forums/4942049-post7.html.

Have fun with it!

[cv2065]

Thanks for that detailed reply Paul. Much appreciated. I was thinking that those panels didn’t need to be trimmed, but thought I’d check. I’m really impressed with the overall panel fitment right out of the gate. I’ll check back through my parts based on your descriptions. Should help identify some of those pieces if I’ve missed them.

[TexasAviator]

I got my kit just 9 months ago and I trimmed every panel I have. I had to. Even though they use robots to cut the fiberglass there is still a lot of room for error in fiberglass. Every car is different. What will work for some may not for you and vise versa.

Good luck and looking forward to your build.

[edwardb]

I got my kit just 9 months ago and I trimmed every panel I have. I had to. Even though they use robots to cut the fiberglass there is still a lot of room for error in fiberglass. Every car is different. What will work for some may not for you and vise versa.

Good luck and looking forward to your build.

I don't want to get off topic in cv2065's build thread too far. Also don't want to be argumentative. But need to respond because I don't understand the points you made in your post, which could influence this build and others. Of the 50-60 aluminum panels in the kit, literally only a handful are touching the fiberglass or affected by variations in the body. And even then, usually doesn't change how the panels are mounted. Most are affected by the chassis, which while sometimes not perfect, is fixture built (mostly...) and pretty accurate. In four builds, with only a few exceptions, I've found the laser cut FF aluminum panels to be surprisingly accurate.

My point to the OP, as a first time builder, was to check assembly and the instructions very carefully before trimming anything. More often than not, trimming could be the result of not assembling correctly. Or in the case of the question regarding overhang along the top of the trunk sides, not knowing that is for bulb seal attachment. Not saying trimming or adjustments aren't part of the build, because you're right every one is different. But make it the last thing you do versus the first.

As for the body, you're right, the smaller FF in-house produced parts are final trimmed using a robot. Pretty cool to see during a plant tour. But they're intentionally cut oversize. The Roadster bodies themselves are made at an outside supplier. I'm not familiar with how they're finished, but based on what I've seen not quite the precision of what FF themselves does. In either case though, the bulk of the aluminum panel fitting and mounting isn't affected by this. Body fitting and mounting does require a degree of finesse. Certainly agree with that.

[cv2065]

Moving right along this morning. Pulling the panels off section by section, noting how they go together and then marking where they are to be drilled is working out well. I'll then be able to just drill everything at one time. I like to compartmentalize tasks! If that is a word...:cool:

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Anyhow, I had to remount the rear panels again as the other metal is out of the way to mark it correctly. I did notice that a couple of welds on the frame towards the front of the panels is keeping it from sitting flush. I'm going to notch out about a 1/4" there on both panels. I don't think it will affect the way the cockpit panel sits as I've already marked those but will test fit it again just in case.

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I also noticed that the bottom of the outside footbox panels were riding along a seam and don't sit flush when pushed up against the frame. I'm going to trim those about 1/4" as well so that they fit without any stress.

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[cv2065]

Took the kids to Universal Studios this morning. Season passes are nice as you can go for a couple of hours and leave. Spent half day and got back and went to work on the car. I was able to get A LOT done, which was very pleasing.

Referencing the last post about trimming the rear panels to accommodate the welds. I did notch each side about 1/4", but come to find out because of the way the panel is designed, it really didn't give it any relief in fitting more flush. Not a huge deal, so went about my way.

Was able to strip the entire frame down, mark every panel from behind and start drilling. Today I got the main trunk pan, trunk side panels, driver and passenger floor pans and F panels drilled and fitted. The only thing I haven't done as of yet is drill into the frame. I'm taking Jeff Kleiner's advice and in this order, marking, drilling the panel, fitting the panel, drilling into the frame and then silicone with rivet. 5 steps but well worth it to get these right. I have to get everything powder coated first of course, so only the first 4 steps are possible right now.

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Although I thought everything fit pretty well, have trimmed a few pieces so far. The passenger side piece of the cockpit wall needed some trimming where it meets the side door frame. I also had to trim the passenger side floor pan where it runs flush with the top of the frame of the center console. Took about 1/8" off of each to make flush with my new Dremel tool. Used a 2x4 as a guide to get a straight line and then deburred the edges. If you don't have a Dremel starting a build, you really should get one. Other than that, pretty nice fitment.

I'll be starting on the foot boxes tomorrow or Tuesday.

By the way, if anyone is looking for good Cobalt drill bits for a decent price, I'm using these from Amazon. They stay very sharp, are double sided and walk very little on the panels. I'm hoping that will hold true for the frame.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0054E80M2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Higgybulin]

Go Speed Racer Go!!

[Gobozo]

Do you plan on powder coating your panels? If so, which is preferred, before or after drilling all the mounting holes? Edwardb?

[cv2065]

Do you plan on powder coating your panels? If so, which is preferred, before or after drilling all the mounting holes? Edwardb?

Yes, I’m going to powder coat everything. Powder coating after drilling holes is preferred, as you don’t want to mar up your new powder coated finish, which could scratch or chip when drilling if you are not careful.

[edwardb]

Yes, I’m going to powder coat everything. Powder coating after drilling holes is preferred, as you don’t want to mar up your new powder coated finish, which could scratch or chip when drilling if you are not careful.

Yep, pretty sure most would agree any finish on the panels (powder coat, paint, etc.) should be after they're fitting and drilled. Agreed you don't want to scratch or mar the newly finished panels. Properly applied powder coat typically shouldn't chip. Other reasons include the the possibility of minor trimming or tweaking bends. Better to do that with bare panels vs. coated. Also lots of marking involved in laying out the holes. Better not to be doing that on finished panels.

[cv2065]

Was able to work on the car again this evening for a couple of hours. I was able to get the passenger foot box built again. Origami should be a pre-requisite here. :)

I will say that one thing I've learned is that, especially when it comes to the foot boxes, even though I made good marks on the panels before disassembly, I still missed a couple of things and had to review the panel fitment again before I started drilling. Even some of the areas that I marked for drilling, I abandoned after taking a second look on how things fit together as you only want holes on one side or the other. Pictures beforehand are essential and had to review them a couple of times as well.

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I figure if I can devote a couple of hours a day to the build, and still be ready for dinner with the family, I can make good progress and still be in the good graces of the homestead. Tomorrow I think I'm ready to start drilling holes into the frame as well as the foot box before I move to the other side.

[Gobozo]

Concerning the powder coating, my concern would be a decrease in the size of the rivet holes as a result.

[cv2065]

Concerning the powder coating, my concern would be a decrease in the size of the rivet holes as a result.

Metal expands and contracts with heat but I wouldn't worry about holes closing up....

[Jeff Kleiner]

Metal expands and contracts with heat but I wouldn't worry about holes closing up....

The buildup of the powder coating in the i.d. of the holes can make getting a rivet in difficult which can necessitate running a reamer or bit through to open them up again.

Jeff

[cv2065]

The buildup of the powder coating in the i.d. of the holes can make getting a rivet in difficult which can necessitate running a reamer or bit through to open them up again.

Jeff

Now that you mention it Jeff, I think I've read you saying that before. Thanks for the reminder!

[cv2065]

Moving right along and started drilling today. Focus was on getting the passenger foot box finally fitted and drilled, as well as the trunk floor pans and side panels. Clecos helped out a lot. Had the wife get inside the frame and push up on a couple of pieces so that I could get a flush fitting when drilling my holes. She had just put on clean clothes to go for a cheerleading meeting for my daughter. A few metal filings flying her way and a close call with a drill bit and that was the end of that, but luckily, we finished up that area. :D

Everything went together great. However, the inside panel of the passenger foot box that meets and rivets to the side of the v-shape center console panel was about 1/8" out of alignment at the top. No matter how I tried to maneuver the foot box, the result was the same. You can't notice it in the pictures, but in the same fashion as I know every minor scratch and dent on my wife's Jeep, I see it. There was plenty of overlap to rivet the pieces together, but trying to go for perfection here as much as possible. I looked at the pictures I took before removing all the panels, and see it there as well. Everything else lined up perfectly, so I moved on.

One thing I found out is that some of my holes were not accessible for my drill as they were too close to a frame piece or too close to a panel. I'll have to buy some longer drill bits for harder to reach areas.

Overall, a productive day. Tomorrow I'll finish up my drilling in the hard to reach areas on the passenger side and then start on the cockpit panels.

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[Straversi]

If you can't get our drill in there, you probably can't get your rivet gun in either. Check how the rivet tool fits into those hard to reach areas before you go get special drill bits.
-Steve

[cv2065]

If you can't get our drill in there, you probably can't get your rivet gun in either. Check how the rivet tool fits into those hard to reach areas before you go get special drill bits.
-Steve

Good point Steve. I’ll try with both my air and manual riveters tomorrow and see how much space I have. Mistake I made was not measuring where those hard to reach areas were on the panels so I could skip over them when drilling my holes. What’s the best looking way to plug a couple of unwanted holes in the aluminum panel?

[Straversi]

Ha, I’ve got more experience covering up my mistakes than I’d like to admit. If you are going to use lizard skin sound/ heat shield you will find it covers up many sins. It will seal an extra rivit hole. If the rivit is in a visible place you can make a bridge patch that catches the rivet on either side. Cut the stem off of a rivet and shove it in the hole and give it a tap with a hammer if you can reach. Keep in mind, one extra or one less rivet isn’t going to make any difference in the structure.

[cv2065]

Had a productive couple of days getting ALL of my panels drilled and fitted. With the Florida heat in my garage, I've probably lost 10 pounds in water weight. Man is it SWELTERING with the humidity. I'm from here and still can't get used to it year over year!

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I don't know how many holes I've drilled exactly, but as many of you know, it's a lot, but glad to get this part of the equation out of the way, and get to the fun stuff. All of the panels went together pretty well. The cockpit rear wall was a little challenging, as I had to bend a few of the flanges in order for them to line up with the larger panel from the rear. Not sure what they are called, but the angular small panels that fit against the tunnel and rear panel were challenging to get just right, as everything else aligns with those.

I do have the thicker firewall that also went in without a hitch. It was noticeably heavier and identical to the FFR supplied piece.

[cv2065]

One difficulty I did have that I just noticed as I was buttoning up some other panels in the cockpit, was the outer panel of the passenger side foot box. The gap at the bottom seems to be a little larger than I would like (1/4"). The factory screws holding the panel were in, so must have been situated this way from the factory.

I took out all of my clecos and attempted to adjust the box in it's entirely, and I was successful in getting it aligned again, BUT, getting that straight was a domino effect with the top part of the box and that began to get misaligned. The box naturally wanted to go back to where it was originally, which is where it sits now. I looked at a few more build threads and have seen the same thing on a couple of others. Is this just one of those from the frame being different on every build, or is there something else I should try? I had drilled a new line of holes to accommodate the new position of the panel, but as I mentioned, its now back where its "comfortable"....

Sorry, my pic is turned 90 degrees counter clockwise.

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[edwardb]

One difficulty I did have that I just noticed as I was buttoning up some other panels in the cockpit, was the outer panel of the passenger side foot box. The gap at the bottom seems to be a little larger than I would like (1/4"). The factory screws holding the panel were in, so must have been situated this way from the factory.

Are you referring to the gap between the 2 x 2 inch tube and the cutout at the notch? You shouldn't try to move the whole assembly to close that. As you said, it cascades into a whole bunch of other things not fitting. There are several ways that can be filled (aluminum tape, seam sealer, piece of aluminum, etc.) and I suspect you'll find some others that also require some similar filling. Like around the round tube out the bottom of the passenger side footbox, the cutouts around the seat belt tabs, etc. Normal part of the aluminum panel fit-up.


...Is this just one of those from the frame being different on every build...

Not sure why you think that. The frames are built on a giant fixture with everything held to close tolerances. If you haven't been to the factory, you should check it out sometime.

[cv2065]

Thanks for the feedback Paul. I’ll leave as is and take your advice to fill. I’ll probably cut a small piece of aluminum similar to the space you referenced on the tube inside of the box. Inside the box is actually pretty tight around that tube. The reason I mentioned frame tolerance is that the gap is not very noticeable on the drivers side, but that being said, it is an entire separate assembly, so may not be relevant.

Would love to tour the plant, but just not in the cards these days from a travel perspective. Thanks again!

[BadAsp427]

Please explain the "Thicker Firewall" Is this an option from FF or somewhere else? Thanks

[cv2065]

Please explain the "Thicker Firewall" Is this an option from FF or somewhere else? Thanks

Sure. Here’s the link from ffmetals. Nice piece.

http://www.ffmetal.com/index.html#fw1

[cv2065]

Wow...I had some good intimate time with the car today. Wife was out and kids were doing their thing. One thing is for sure...It is HUMID in Orlando. I had to change clothes twice within a couple of hours as I was drenched with sweat!

Anyhow, the morning started off enlarging the spindle holes as well as cutting the ears off and that went very well. Aluminum cut really easy on both accounts. I used a Reciprocating saw from my favorite place, Harbor Freight ($20 after discount) and an 8T blade, as the instructions say anything around a 14T would gum up. Finished off the cut with my flapper disc and its nice and smooth. Looks like it came that way. Biggest challenge here was holding the spindle as its such an odd shape as the cutting causes a lot of vibration. I've got an old B&D portable work bench that did the trick.

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Next on the list was to enlarge the holes on the IRS pumpkin. Parked the pumpkin on my transmission jack and went to work. Although I knew better, started off like a banshee out of the gate with high speed to get it done quickly and the drill caught, twisted and nearly tore my wrist off. It was slow going from that point, just a little at a time but got it done. The force may have cured my carpel tunnel in my right hand!

From there, it was time to install the IRS pumpkin. Wasn't really looking forward to this and although my wife said she would help, she conveniently disappeared to the mall, so I was flying solo.

I parked the trans jack with pumpkin up underneath the frame, raised the jack a little then lifted the front of the center section up into the frame and then over the front mount. Once there, I slowly jacked the transmission jack up a few inches, re-seated the front of the trans, and then rinsed and repeated a few times until it was in position with all 4 ears. The rear bolts went in pretty easily. The front bolts not so much. I think my two front holes were sharing about 1/16" off in alignment, so one would go in, but the other was missing ever so slightly because of the metal sleeve. So, I backed them both out completely, then started one, then started the other and used a ratchet (so the sleeve would stay in place) with a little grease and went from side to side a little at a time until they were both fully seated, nice and flush. Ended up changing over to my car jack during this process.

Haven't torqued them down yet, as I had to get an electrolyte replenishment. Did I mention the garage floor was wet because I'm sweating so much? I was ready to power down, and update my build thread under the ceiling fan.

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Next up tonight will be to work on my upper/lower control arms, cv axles, spindles and tow arms (although my toe arms rod ends are on backorder), so only can do so much there.

[cv2065]

Had a little delay the night before last with the kids, and wasn't able to get to the control arms, axles, etc. However, I did finally get all of my panels and brackets out of the garage and into powder coat. I know the owner and he gave me the 'friends and family' discount, which was great. $500 for the entire lot of 57 panels and a box of brackets in Satin Black, and it will be most likely done before the weekend. I'll have to make another trip back for the wheels and windshield trim, but I think I got just about everything in one trip. Can't wait to get it all back!

[Yama-Bro]

You are making some great progress! Keep up the good work!

[cv2065]

Well, not a lot happening today. I'd start on the rear suspension and remembered that the ends of the toe arm are on backorder, and that looks to be the first step after installing the pumpkin. I started on the pedal box, and remembered that some of those parts are at the powder coaters. I then moved to the front suspension, and F-panels are at the powder coaters as well, but I know some things can be done, so I at least installed the lower control arms. Didn't want to put the upper on in case I couldn't get to a rivet on the panel.

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I had to use the spacers on both arms of the passenger side. Drivers side, as many have said, was a little different as the left arm was too tight and the mounting ear had to be bent slightly. Couple whacks of a dead blow hammer and it moved just enough to install. Right arm needed a spacer. Everything tightened up nicely and I just sat the castle nut and spacer on the studs with kotter pin for safe keeping. Oh, and thanks to Wareagle for noticing the correct orientation of the spacer, as it is beveled side down.

Started testing out my HF rivet gun tonight. Hooked it all up and first shot it sprayed oil everywhere. Followed directions on filling with oil, but maybe it was slightly overfilled and just equalized itself, as the oil became less and less with each shot. Other issue was that although the gun shot the rivet, it would not auto break the end off and shoot it into the collection cup. Not sure what's going on there, but its going back tomorrow for a replacement. The gun has enough positive reviews to give it another shot.

I'm hoping that I will get my backordered parts here soon, as we are about 2.5 weeks since delivery. Probably will give FFR a call tomorrow and find out where we are.

[Fixit]

I've also bought one of the HF rivet guns, and yes... sprayed oil all over everywhere (luckily it was on a test panel...). I also had a few instances where I had to take another bite on a rivet and give it another go - then it'd snap the shank off. It's getting better with use.
(BTW - it won't "shoot" the shank into the cup... It'll just snap off and remain in the gun. A little shake and gravity will drop it rearward, or the next rivet will knock it backward)

[cv2065]

I've also bought one of the HF rivet guns, and yes... sprayed oil all over everywhere (luckily it was on a test panel...). I also had a few instances where I had to take another bite on a rivet and give it another go - then it'd snap the shank off. It's getting better with use.
(BTW - it won't "shoot" the shank into the cup... It'll just snap off and remain in the gun. A little shake and gravity will drop it rearward, or the next rivet will knock it backward)

Thanks John. I thought it might work itself out and shot about 10 rivets with it. The oil stopped spraying but it didn't snap off any of the rivet shanks.

[Fixit]

What's your line pressure?
I'm running 90psi at the gun and it now pulls & snaps 'em off just fine... even the 3/16".

[cv2065]

What's your line pressure?
I'm running 90psi at the gun and it now pulls & snaps 'em off just fine... even the 3/16".

I’m running at 100psi

[edwardb]

Thanks John. I thought it might work itself out and shot about 10 rivets with it. The oil stopped spraying but it didn't snap off any of the rivet shanks.

Yea, all the air tools say "oil daily" but it's just a couple drops and typically if used continuously. If you're spraying oil, a little less oil and less often. I don't have the H-F puller, but another brand. Totally normally for it to take a couple cycles to pull and snap the pin. Depends on the rivet, the grip range, what you're riveting, etc. The puller only has so much travel. If that's not enough to snap the pin on the first stroke, push the nose back down to the head of the rivet and pull the trigger again. Almost never have any that take more than the second pull. If on the other hand, you don't think the riveter isn't gripping the pin properly, that's adjustable. At least it is on mine.

[cv2065]

If on the other hand, you don't think the riveter isn't gripping the pin properly, that's adjustable. At least it is on mine.

I don't 'think' mine is adjustable, but I'll give it a another look before I bring it back today.

[cv2065]

Just heard back from FFR regarding my back ordered parts. Hopefully I get most of them shortly, but the manufacturer of the spring collars and hats had some kind of anodizing issue and those parts have been delayed another couple of weeks or more. Wonder if this is something I can get locally? Also, that is the company that makes the steering wheel bosses...which will push back the arrival of those...UGH!! Guess Russ will be back from vacation before I can even think of sending it to him. Brake pads are also on continued back order along with my front spindles and rod ends for the toe arms.

I realize that each FFR Cobra parts list is long and complicated, but I'm still just a little perplexed around the FFR purchaser/supplier relationship and the overall communication to the end user after the sale. It's been 2.5 weeks since my kit was delivered, and almost 2 months since the kit was 'completed' for pickup. Hate to be a negative Nancy, but FFR needs to get this stuff dialed in.

[Fixit]

I ordered my kit in February, but specifically delayed delivery until May (when Ma Nature is back on her meds, and the white stuff is gone around here). I'm guessing that due to this elongated "order date to ship date" was to my benefit - my POL list is pretty short, and only had a few "mission critical" pieces on it - and these have all arrived.
FFR is at the mercy of their 3rd party vendors... as is any other manufacturer that uses out-of-house suppliers for parts.

You're not going to need the steering wheel for awhile, and the coil-over assemblies aren't really critical until you want to set the chassis down on it's own wheels. I'm also still in the early build stages, and trust me... there's PLENTY of other tasks & sub-assemblies to occupy your time!

[cv2065]

I ordered my kit in February, but specifically delayed delivery until May (when Ma Nature is back on her meds, and the white stuff is gone around here). I'm guessing that due to this elongated "order date to ship date" was to my benefit - my POL list is pretty short, and only had a few "mission critical" pieces on it - and these have all arrived.
FFR is at the mercy of their 3rd party vendors... as is any other manufacturer that uses out-of-house suppliers for parts.

You're not going to need the steering wheel for awhile, and the coil-over assemblies aren't really critical until you want to set the chassis down on it's own wheels. I'm also still in the early build stages, and trust me... there's PLENTY of other tasks & sub-assemblies to occupy your time!

Agreed, and I've been keeping myself busy, but my OCD doesn't allow me to draw outside the lines very often...:) I'm in manufacturing as well, and understand the challenges of suppliers, but control and expectation have to be mastered, especially with such long lead times. Good news is that I have a box coming from FFR as we speak. May not have all my stuff, but they responded to my email, which is good!

OK..enough of all that stuff! Good news is that all of my panels are ready for pick up today from the powder coaters and they look sweet! I'll post some pics later. Very pleased with the cost to get everything done.

As many have done, I tried to get my Mev Tech ball joints into my upper control arms last night, and it was a no go from the launch pad. I see where the issue is, as the threads of the ball joint have some kind of bubbling and look to need a bit of scraping...

91049

So, took a look at the forum and many have tried the Moog K772 ball joints, so ordered them from Amazon last night ($16.99 each) and we'll see how they fit. Last resort is to go the Edwardb route and get the high performance ball joints, but hoping that Moog will do me right!

[Jeff Kleiner]

As many have done, I tried to get my Mev Tech ball joints into my upper control arms last night, and it was a no go from the launch pad. I see where the issue is, as the threads of the ball joint have some kind of bubbling and look to need a bit of scraping...



My experience with multiple installations is that after you wire brush the protective "schmutz" of of them they'll go in without issue.

Jeff

[cv2065]

My experience with multiple installations is that after you wire brush the protective "schmutz" of of them they'll go in without issue.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff. I'll break out the wire brush on the drill and see where it gets me. Doesn't look like these were painted that great anyway, so might give it a fresh coat. If it doesn't work out, the Moogs will be here tomorrow anyway.

[cv2065]

Great news today. Got all of my panels back, and man do they look good. I had them done in Black Satin to match the frame. Although they are looking more Semi-Gloss than Satin, I'm still pleased. My powder coater laid the powder on thick. Might have to put the drill bit through a couple of holes to get the excess out. He said to bring back the wheels and he'd do them for $250. That Friends and Family discount is really saving me some dough! He did all 57 panels plus brackets in 3 days.

91110

Was able to get my new rivnuts into the top cover of the foot box. They fit really well and I've entered the no spin zone, as these puppies grab and are easy to install. I don't really like the yellow chromate color, but they'll be covered up anyway. I'll probably change out these SS button head screws for some taller ones. Here's the ones I used: https://www.mcmaster.com/#95105A135

9111191112

Also picked up my hubs from the machine shop. Rob the owner pressed my wheel studs in for $20. I thought it was money well spent to make sure that I didn't run into any issues pulling them through with my impact wrench. He did a great job and had them back in 2 hours.

91113

Exchanged out my rivet gun today at Harbor Freight. Got home, hooked it up, and the same thing was happening as the last, where the gun was not pulling the shanks off. I think I figured out my problem. It's not the gun at all but my pancake compressor. Volume is plenty, but I think I'm lacking in pressure as it only puts out 2.6 SCFM @90psi. My rivet gun is calling for 3 SCFM. So, tomorrow I'll pick one up at HF and see if that solves my problem. I'm pretty sure that it will.

[Jeff Kleiner]

...I had them done in Black Satin to match the frame. Although they are looking more Semi-Gloss than Satin, I'm still pleased....

I have a matte finish on my roadster body--- trust me when I say that you'll be glad those panels have some sheen. Matte will show every spot of oil, grease or finger smudges and unlike a surface with a sheen if you go to wipe it off it just gets bigger and you have to chase it all the way to the edge. Really disappointed that FFR has switched to matte PC for chassis components; enough so that I'm seriously thinking of ordering the chassis for an upcoming Coupe uncoated and having it done locally...don't want to but they may force my hand :(

Jeff

[cv2065]

I have a matte finish on my roadster body--- trust me when I say that you'll be glad those panels have some sheen. Matte will show every spot of oil, grease or finger smudges and unlike a surface with a sheen if you go to wipe it off it just gets bigger and you have to chase it all the way to the edge. Really disappointed that FFR has switched to matte PC for chassis components; enough so that I'm seriously thinking of ordering the chassis for an upcoming Coupe uncoated and having it done locally...don't want to but they may force my hand :(

Jeff

I was also surprised when it didn't come gloss black, not only for durability, but for the touch up factor with something like POR15. I wouldn't say that the finish on my frame is matte though, it is more like a satin finish, as it has somewhat of a sheen, like maybe 20-25% reflectency? Big difference between my panels and the frame though...that is for sure. I was trying to get them to match, but as you said Jeff, the clean up should be much easier!

[Fixit]

I think I figured out my problem. It's not the gun at all but my pancake compressor.

You've found yourself in perfect position for a great new tool acquisition... "Honey, I need to get a new air compressor. The one I have just isn't big enough to run (my $30) the air tools I'll need for the Roadster build... OK?"

Go Large!
91161 91162

[cv2065]

You've found yourself in perfect position for a great new tool acquisition... "Honey, I need to get a new air compressor. The one I have just isn't big enough to run (my $30) the air tools I'll need for the Roadster build... OK?"

Go Large!
91161 91162

LOL...I’m with ya John! The real tragedy is that I just sold my big one about a year ago thinking that I would downsize the garage a bit. Of course, the Cobra was not in the picture at that time. Learned my lesson that projects of some kind will always play a part as long as I have a garage to do them in....So big air compressor purchase...Round 2!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Or...

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41Gj5WhfVzL.jpg

;)

Cheers,
Jeff

[edwardb]

Exchanged out my rivet gun today at Harbor Freight. Got home, hooked it up, and the same thing was happening as the last, where the gun was not pulling the shanks off. I think I figured out my problem. It's not the gun at all but my pancake compressor. Volume is plenty, but I think I'm lacking in pressure as it only puts out 2.6 SCFM @90psi. My rivet gun is calling for 3 SCFM. So, tomorrow I'll pick one up at HF and see if that solves my problem. I'm pretty sure that it will.

I use my Campbell Hausfeld air rivet gun in the basement with the little Porter-Cable 6-gallon pancake compressor I have there. Works fine. Runs more than the much bigger Quincy I have in the garage shop. But still pulls rivets fine. Far be it from me standing between someone and new tools. But I don't think you need a bigger compressor for this reason alone. I still think your riveter may need to be adjusted. I looked on H-F's website and theirs adjust exactly like mine does. Look in the instructions under the section near the end titled Jaw Cleaning and Replacement. With the whole outer cylinder nose piece off, there's a lock nut and the jaws that grip the rivet. Loosen the nut and adjust. They show using the wrench as a measuring device. If their adjustment doesn't make it better, you can adjust it a little more on your own. Mine was also slipping sometimes, and a slight adjustment in this area made it work perfectly every time.

[cv2065]

Or...

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41Gj5WhfVzL.jpg

;)

Cheers,
Jeff

LOL...Got one of those and the handshake to prove it....:)

[cv2065]

I use my Campbell Hausfeld air rivet gun in the basement with the little Porter-Cable 6-gallon pancake compressor I have there. Works fine. Runs more than the much bigger Quincy I have in the garage shop. But still pulls rivets fine. Far be it from me standing between someone and new tools. But I don't think you need a bigger compressor for this reason alone. I still think your riveter just need to be adjusted. I looked on H-F's website and theirs adjust exactly like mine does. Look in the instructions under the section near the end titled Jaw Cleaning and Replacement. With the whole outer cylinder nose piece off, there's a lock nut and the jaws that grip the rivet. Loosen the nut and adjust. They show using the wrench as a measuring device. If their adjustment does make it better, you can adjust it a little more on your own. Mine was also slipping sometimes, and a slight adjustment in this area made it work perfect every time.

Soooo, I took mine apart to adjust and not sure what happened there but when the jaws went back in, they would no longer accept the entire rivet shank. Would only go in about 2/3rds of the way. I'm sure that I probalby jacked something up, but not sure how, as its a pretty simple assembly. Unfortunately, the wrench they now include in the box is not the same that's in the adjustment picture, so it doesn't have the any markers for adjustment purposes. I'll take a look at it again, but I'm thinking you are correct, its just a matter of getting it right.

I did take a look at the CH rivet gun that you have Paul and noticed that it says it only needs 1.1 SCFM where mine needs 3 SCFM @90psi. Even if those numbers for the CH were at 40psi, double it and its still under the capacity of my pancake compressor. Harbor Freight has a blue and black rivet gun, with the black being the more expensive model, just like the CH that you have. Not sure what the differences are there....

That being said, I do like having a larger air compressor again....:)

[cv2065]

Today was all about painting parts. I'm waiting on some key suspension parts so I can complete the front and back so thought I'd paint some of those.

First up was the calipers. My wheels will be powder coated a black chrome color, so I thought red calipers would not only contrast nicely, but somewhat match the Ruby Red color of the car. I used the POR15 caliper paint and as I've used their products before, very impressed. I used a chip brush to apply and it levels out very nicely. I had one drip that I missed, but other than that, they are coming along great so far.

912139121491260

Next up was the knuckles. I was going to use the Duplicolor clear like Edwardb, BUT for some reason my knuckles looked a little dirty and banged up in certain places. Some of that was me, the dirty part, but I bought them new through Summit and don't think they were used or anything. Instead of the clear, I used the Duplicolor Silver Caliper paint and they came out great. Look brand new....Taping them off was a bit of a chore, but worth the time.

91220

Next up was the control arm adjustment cylinders. Mine came from FFR with a few scratches in the black powdercoat. I was just going to run with those until one of them froze up on the threads. It moves easily now, so not sure if someone went crazy with some thread locker or what, but used my adjustable wrench to 'unfreeze' it and scratched the crapola out of it. So, I decided to paint the same POR15 caliper red. Ironically enough, I used a self etching primer from Rustoleum and it only came in a green color. Couple of coats of red on top of that, and it came out similar to a Ruby Red, same as the body paint. They came out great and almost look 'dipped' in color. The POR15 product is outstanding.

91228

I'm sure that my son is looking for his shark towel. I was by myself today and had run of the kitchen. Things got a little busy and this is what the kitchen island looked like before the wife got home. PLENTY of time to clean up and move to the garage, but man its hot out there, even with my shop fan.

91227

I did paint the lower caliper pieces with the Duplicolor Caliper paint in Black. Those seem to have come out a little 'powdery'. Maybe they just need more time to cure but hopefully I'm not seeing a future stripping of those parts due to poor adhesion.

Edit: Looks like the paint didn't really take to these pieces. Not sure if its the paint or the glossy finish to the metal, but I stripped these and we are back to the silver. Will still look great.

Edit 2: Took a look at John's calipers (aka Fixit) and said forget the silver. I hand sanded the lower caliper pieces with 120 grit sandpaper. Seems to rough up enough to produce a fine powder, so I'm confident that the caliper paint will bite. So we are back to RED!

92032

Tomorrow I'll be tackling the pedal box!

[cv2065]

Almost forgot to mention that I received my MOOG K772 ball joint replacements. Happy to report that after a couple of drops of Loctite, they dropped right in and screwed down with little effort. I will say that they didn't actually 'drop in'. At first, you put them in and looks almost like they don't fit. I had to fiddle around with each one a little, twisting lightly back and forth until the ball joint settled into the control arm up to the threads. Once in position, they screwed down easily. Not sure what is lining up there, but takes a little patience.

[Higgybulin]

I see your hydrating properly! Bottle of water AND a bottle of Michelob Ultra! Good job.
Higgy

[cv2065]

I see your hydrating properly! Bottle of water AND a bottle of Michelob Ultra! Good job.
Higgy

You got that right Higgy! Painting goes a bit sideways after a few beers if I don’t introduce some hydration!

[Fixit]

A tidbit of advise on the adjuster sleeves for the control arms... now that you've got them all purdy - but not on the car yet.

I've got the same style arms on my '65 El Camino, and neglected to lube the crap out of the internal threads of the sleeves on installation. Once I got it back on it's wheels and weight on the suspension, it was VERY difficult to turn the adjuster sleeves... Wound up pulling stuff off and lubing them up.

Use some chassis grease or anti-seize on the internal threads. Slather 'em up good, then thread the arms back in.
91393

Word of warning with anti-seize.... 91394

[cv2065]

Thanks for the reminder there John. I remember you mentioning this in your build thread and forgot to do it. First thing I’ll do tonight as I see exactly what you are saying, as one of mine was seized up a bit right out of the box

[wineguy]

Agreed, and I've been keeping myself busy, but my OCD doesn't allow me to draw outside the lines very often...:) I'm in manufacturing as well, and understand the challenges of suppliers, but control and expectation have to be mastered, especially with such long lead times. Good news is that I have a box coming from FFR as we speak. May not have all my stuff, but they responded to my email, which is good!

OK..enough of all that stuff! Good news is that all of my panels are ready for pick up today from the powder coaters and they look sweet! I'll post some pics later. Very pleased with the cost to get everything done.

As many have done, I tried to get my Mev Tech ball joints into my upper control arms last night, and it was a no go from the launch pad. I see where the issue is, as the threads of the ball joint have some kind of bubbling and look to need a bit of scraping...

91049

So, took a look at the forum and many have tried the Moog K772 ball joints, so ordered them from Amazon last night ($16.99 each) and we'll see how they fit. Last resort is to go the Edwardb route and get the high performance ball joints, but hoping that Moog will do me right!


CV - did you powder coat ALL of the panels? Will you add any other coatings? Thx

[cv2065]

CV - did you powder coat ALL of the panels? Will you add any other coatings? Thx

Yep. I powder coated everything. I still have some odds and ends to bring, but I'll just do that when I have my wheels, gas tank cap and windshield frame done in a couple of months.

[wineguy]

Yep. I powder coated everything. I still have some odds and ends to bring, but I'll just do that when I have my wheels, gas tank cap and windshield frame done in a couple of months.

Thats awesome! Wish I had a powder coating hookup! Are you also adding Thermo-Tec/Lizard Skin near cockpit?

[SSNK4US]

Ok I’m a little behind here but I just got my b/o front control arms on Friday. They are flat/satin black. I thought hmmmm
I haven’t really paid attention much to the chassis yet, but after reading this my chassis is flat/satin too. Also the powder coated 3 link brackets I just inventoried too. Not a real happy camper at this point because my moser rear end that I got 2 weeks before the kit is a glow in the dark GLOSS black!! NOT a very good match :(

[cv2065]

Thats awesome! Wish I had a powder coating hookup! Are you also adding Thermo-Tec/Lizard Skin near cockpit?

Yes, I'll be going with the Thermo Tec all around.

[cv2065]

Ok I’m a little behind here but I just got my b/o front control arms on Friday. They are flat/satin black. I thought hmmmm
I haven’t really paid attention much to the chassis yet, but after reading this my chassis is flat/satin too. Also the powder coated 3 link brackets I just inventoried too. Not a real happy camper at this point because my moser rear end that I got 2 weeks before the kit is a glow in the dark GLOSS black!! NOT a very good match :(

No doubt. I was surprised to see the Satin black as well. Seemed like it was a no brainer on the high gloss, as imperfections could easily be hidden by POR15. My control arms are satin black as well, but I do prefer that to the bare metal copper color that I've seen others get in the past.

[cv2065]

Haven't posted on my build thread lately, but have gotten quite a bit done. I was also waiting for my additional parts to show. FFR finally send me my spindles, toe arm ends and a couple of other things this week, but NO SPRING HATS!! Actually, they just sent them out this past Friday, so should have them by Tuesday. The only thing I'm missing is my rear brake pads...No big deal.

Started on my pedal box. Pedal box creation went without a hitch, but I did temporarily get confused around the cable vs. hydraulic setup, as I built the cable assembly, installed it and then sanded the seam off of the pedal so it could fit into the assembly, only to figure out that I needed to have a hydraulic MC there instead, so pulled it all apart and reassembled properly. Rookie mistake.

91846

Was able to get my upper control arms on the front as well. I had to put in 2 shims on the passenger side on left and zero shims on the right. Went to the driver's side and it took shims in both. Also, the ears were not wide enough and to open them up a bit. Started off with a dead blow hammer and although I was re-enacted the monkey scene from 2001: A Space Odyssey in the garage, I just ended up using a threaded bar and nuts/washers. That is certainly the most effective way to widen these up evenly on both sides. I also had to flip my center section over just like everyone else and "slathered" the adjuster with anti seize, just as John (aka Fixit) suggested.

I think I mentioned this before, but went with the Moog ball joints, and they went in without a problem. Very pleased with their product.

91847

[cv2065]

Moved back to the pedal box and driver's side footbox. I had asked the forum the best way to apply the Thermo-Tec, before or after the foot box was completed. Just about everyone said afterwards so you are able to seal the panels together easily, cover up the riveted sections and save some time cutting around the areas that have rivets, as they need to be metal to metal for an effective fit. I did the front wall of the footbox and will most likely do the floor pan as well before I rivet them in. These areas are the hardest to get to or get under due to the framing. And by the way, as others have said, this stuff is STICKY. When it attaches to the aluminum, you better get ready for a wrestling match to get it back off. Almost to the point of warping a piece of sheet metal, so be careful.

I'm also going to reinforce the Thermo Tec insulation on the foot box pan, tunnel area and sides which come close to the headers with Thermo Tec's heat barrier. Not sure how it will work, but supposedly rated to 2K degrees and is very thin compared to the Thermo Tec Cool It. Looks like this:

91851

As I installed my pedal box, looks like the 2 holes in the rear bracket were not aligning with the 3/4" bar, so had to drill it off center a bit. I could get them centered if I moved the pedal box bracket about 1/8" off the front mount with a washer, but as the forum suggested, keep it flush and just drill the holes off center. They were about 1/8" off. Drilled them and everything fit fine. Others said they had the same thing with current frames, so maybe something that was changed by FFR to fix the pedal interference.

920209202192022

Now that my toe rod ends are here, time for some rear end action! Will be nice to finally get the front and rear suspension completed!

[cv2065]

Ok, so some good stuff today.

I started my rear suspension (finally). Once the tow arms were in, it was time for the axles. One has to remember to ensure that you have the right IRS axle for the right side. The longer spindled side goes to the driver side and shorter to the passenger. Just make sure you measure as I would hate to have to pull one out after the c clip engages. When I put the first one in, it took some pressure to get the clip on the end of the axle to compress and feed into the grooves inside the pumpkin. It went in all the way the first push, but I didn't realize it as there was still a very small gap at the end of the hub. I installed the passenger side and that one needed a small bump from my plastic hammer but felt it bottom out, and it had the same small gap, which I then realized that they were in and the forum confirmed. Here's a couple of a fully installed axle in case anyone needs to see the gapping:

9203592036

I was able to get my rear hubs connected to my spindles. I did paint the hub bases with a Rustoleum Oil Based Gloss Black. Went on nicely and looks great. My spindle bolts came with thread locker already on them, but I added a drop or two of Red Loctite for good measure. Was easier than I thought to get the required 98 ft-lbs of torque on those bolts despite the odd shaped spindle. Wife was VERY happy to have these removed from the kitchen island.

9203392034

Moved to the garage and attached the spindles. I have to be honest, I was a little worried about the holes that had to be enlarged in the spindle. They cut easily but wasn't sure if maybe getting off center a bit was going to come back to haunt me. Luckily, I didn't have any issues. I will say that every attachment I've had on the IRS system has needed to be enlarged with the threaded bar and nut method. Not a big deal, but worth mentioning so that anyone reading will have it on hand. Nothing more aggravating than getting into the project and have to pick up and run out to get something that you are missing. I included a picture in case someone hasn't done that before. Much better than hitting with a hammer.

92025920269202792028920299203092031

Thanks to Edwardb's help (multiple times today - Much appreciated Paul!), I adjusted the assembly a little after I took the above pics. The UCA was adjusted to where I had roughly 1/2" of threads showing on both sides of the lock nuts. I did about the same with the toe arm for good measure. Seemed to give me a good enough starting point when alignment comes up. I did measure the toe arm threads, and one has about 2" worth of threads, so maybe about 1.5" to work with...In case anyone was wondering and forgot to measure.

I do need to address that sensor hole in the spindles. I saw how a few addressed with tapped screw and aluminum piece, but now that I have it all assembled, may just get a piece and JB weld it on there? Not sure yet.

Tomorrow I think I'll finish up the pedal box and continue to measure out Thermo Tec for the foot boxes. Tuesday is a big day as I'll finally get all of my spring parts and can finish up the front suspension. I'll be taking off Thurs/Fri off this week for a big 5 day weekend counting Labor Day, so car time is coming!!

[Fixit]

Down-n-dirty fix for the sensor holes... I just filled them with clear silicone.

92145

(Something to consider though... the steel CV housings near the differential & hubs are raw, and will rust if you look at them wrong. Shoot some rattle-can clear on them)
92146 (These are the OEM axles from my 1000 mile take-out IRS.)j

Oh, BTW... getting the axles out of the Diff isn't too bad. A "persuader" (pry bar) between the diff & CV housing and a little leverage and they'll pop right out.

[BadAsp427]

(Something to consider though... the steel CV housings near the differential & hubs are raw, and will rust if you look at them wrong. Shoot some rattle-can clear on them)
92146 (These are the OEM axles from my 1000 mile take-out IRS.)

I'm glad you said this. Because as I just posted today, I did not do anything because I thought they would not rust. Mine have been in their box for the past 3 years and they looked really good. I will clean them up with some lacquer thinner and puts some of my clear on them. Thanks for the note.

[cv2065]

Down-n-dirty fix for the sensor holes... I just filled them with clear silicone.

92145

(Something to consider though... the steel CV housings near the differential & hubs are raw, and will rust if you look at them wrong. Shoot some rattle-can clear on them)
92146 (These are the OEM axles from my 1000 mile take-out IRS.)j

Oh, BTW... getting the axles out of the Diff isn't too bad. A "persuader" (pry bar) between the diff & CV housing and a little leverage and they'll pop right out.

Thanks for both of those John! Another couple of things on my to do list for Thursday!

[cv2065]

Finished up the pedal box MC's yesterday and installed the hydrualic MC from the Forte kit. I cut off 5/8" off of each adjustment rod and they fit perfectly. Dremel tools are invaluable for stuff like this! I was trying to adjust the balance bar, but then I read on a couple of other threads that you really need to wait until there is fluid and its operational for final adjustments, so I centered the balance bar and left it at that for now. My Wilwood MC hoses were both red and black. Kind of like all red, but not a big issue.

92452

As I mentioned, I finally got all of my suspension parts, so was able to finish up the IRS. As I went through my bag, I was actually missing a couple of lock nuts for the LCA. My fault as I didn't inventory these, but nothing a quick trip to ACE hardware couldn't solve. They are the only place I know of that have large sized Grade 8 flanged nuts. I assembled and installed the rear shocks and was able to tighten up everything else. Interesting that the rear shocks are faced down and the fronts are faced up. I think these red Konis can be done either way, but the manual specifically showed them different orientation. I verified on the forum as well.

I've had to widen every suspension coupling with a threaded rod and nuts, and the shocks were no different. Again, not a big deal and once tightened up, they look great. After reading Papa's thread a few hundred times, I've got the same OCD and had to make sure the FFR writing on the springs was right side up front to back. The spacers that are included for the springs are very roughly cut and you'll need to make sure to have a small file to get them nice and smooth. One might also want to make sure that you check the snap rings for the shocks once they are in place. They "look" like they are all the way seated, but I was able to get a small snap out of each one just pressing the ends. You can also see on the ends if the snap ring is seated right.

92455924529245692457

John (aka Fixit) reminded me that the axles on the IRS will rust in a heartbeat once out on the street, so taped them off and used some POR15 on them to match the front of the IRS. Came out great and should be well protected.

92458

Oddly enough, I had two of the larger jam nuts in a bag that have no home? These are the same ones that go on the toe arm, but I already have one on the front and rear for both sides. Not sure where else these would go?

[cv2065]

On to the front suspension. I've almost got this done, but had to get a set of crows feet to tighten the top ball joint castle nut, as you cannot get a torque wrench under it, and that slowed me down a couple of hours today. Everything here lined up, but I did notice that the locking nut on the right side of the UCA towards the top (driver's side) was a lot closer to the F panel than the other side and made contact when it was all the way loose on the thread. It sits at an angle so once tightened, it was all good with plenty of clearance, but noted. I also aligned the UCA according to the instruction manual. Based on the measurements given for each side, I pretty much took all of my adjustment out of one side to get to those numbers. I'll let the pros handle the alignment later down the road.

One note on the front steering knuckles. The manual lays this out but thought I'd mention it as I was skimming through and could have missed it. Each knuckle is deemed DSS (Driver side) and PSS (Passenger Side). The directions were written for the Hot Rod. On the Roadster, these are switched, as the DSS knuckle goes on the passenger side and PSS knuckle to the drivers side.

92473924749247592476

Tomorrow I'll finish up by attaching the hubs, rotors and brakes. Speaking of rotors, I also painted these today with Duplicolor Caliper Paint, and they turned out almost looking powder coated. Very pleased with that product. I've seen a few videos that have painted the part of the rotor that will come into contact with the brake pad, but I skipped this as I didn't want to possibly gum up the pad with paint.

9247792478

[Fixit]

You must have gotten a Monday or a Friday frame... I think I had to "tweak" only two mounting location to get the arms in on the whole car.

And you are correct - the steer arms mount on the wrong side of the car as to what they're stamped. The roadster is "front steer" - the hot rod "rear steer" - the large side of the tapered tie-rod hole should be down.

My driver's rear UCA cross-shaft nut (also) basically touches the F panel.?? Maybe it's the cost of FFR reworking the footbox framing for clutch pedal clearance - they moved that 3/4" tube outboard a bit?

The build is coming along! Looking good!

(your picture links on the last post aren't working...)

[cv2065]

You must have gotten a Monday or a Friday frame... I think I had to "tweak" only two mounting location to get the arms in on the whole car.

And you are correct - the steer arms mount on the wrong side of the car as to what they're stamped. The roadster is "front steer" - the hot rod "rear steer" - the large side of the tapered tie-rod hole should be down.

My driver's rear UCA cross-shaft nut (also) basically touches the F panel.?? Maybe it's the cost of FFR reworking the footbox framing for clutch pedal clearance - they moved that 3/4" tube outboard a bit?

The build is coming along! Looking good!

(your picture links on the last post aren't working...)

Thanks John! With you and I being one of the firsts with the new frame, interesting that the tolerances are so similar that we both see these small same changes with the design. And thanks for your thread as well. I've went to it a few times to keep myself on track! Enjoy the holiday!

[cv2065]

Back at it today to finish up a few things. I was able to get the front end completely done short of putting on the brakes. I must have put the caliper paint on a little heavy, as it wasn't completely dry as of yet, so will give it another day before putting them on and then the brakes. I did however assemble the front brakes with pads, so they are ready to go. I was able to score a loaner torque wrench and 36mm socket to get my 250 ft-lbs on the front hub nuts. I also used the crows foot for the first time. Pretty nifty and got me to the proper torque and cotter pin position on the upper ball joint. I know that many have said that I'm over thinking it, and I'm sure that i am, but my OCD kicks in if I'm not sure where I'm at.

925059250692513

Also installed my firewall tonight. I was able to pry my 13 year old from his room and World of Warcraft game just long enough to have him help hold it while I clecko'd it into position. I took John's advice and drilled my holes into the firewall before installing.... much easier of course.

Instructions state that you measure over 14.75"...then up 1.5" and then split 5" from there horizontally, 2.5" on each side. This of course is from the 2" tubing, which I factored in. Problem was that the two holes I drilled were 5" apart, and one ended up behind the dashboard support. I should have put the firewall up to the frame to look for obstructions beforehand, so my bad, but the good news is that I think there is still enough room to feed the starter and alternator wires through and seal up with a grommet. Worst case scenario is that I drill a 3rd hole, which I think is called for if you have fuel injection anyway. So either way, not a big deal, but glad to have the firewall up. Feels like progress!

925109251192519

Also started on my hydraulic reservoir bracket. I asked edwardb where he scored his and he gave me the McMaster link to a 12" 2x2 90 degree piece of steel angle. You can find it here:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#9017k164/=1e7trhj

Cut this down to 9", drilled out all of the holes after matching it up with the reservoir bracket and now am painting it with POR15. Still need to find some flat head bolts that lay flush with the tubing. Ace doesn't have any of the correct size and didn't see any on McMaster, so if anyone has a tip as to what they used, just let me know.

92512

Tomorrow we are headed off to do some river tubing with the family, so the morning is spoken for, but when I get back, I will start on the brakes and brake lines, then steering column. I've already sent my steering boss to Russ Thompson for the turn signal mod...should get that back within a week or two hopefully!

[cv2065]

Haven't updated in a week and a half or so, but lots going on.

First, I finished up the front brakes and brake lines. My rear pads are still on back order. Luckily its the last thing I have left to get. Front brake calipers and pads went on without a hitch. Hooked up the flex lines and wasn't real impressed with the quality of the banjo bolts and washers, as one bolt didn't take much to distort the head if your socket wasn't 100% engaged. China quality? I'm looking for a replacement now. One thing to remember is that the banjo bolts are not the same thread size from front to back, so don't get over zealous, like I tend to get, and force something or you'll strip the threads.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1248_zps77fcjns9.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1248_zps77fcjns9.jpg.html)

I also had an issue with my FFR supplied tie rod ends. They were too short as I was only able to engage about 3/4" after everything was centered. No one else seemed to have an issue, so perhaps it was just me...wouldn't be surprising. Anyhow, Edwardb gave me the Moog replacement (es2150rl) and I picked up 2 at my local auto parts store. I think 2 of them set me back $38. All I have to say is WOW, what a difference. The quality of the part is very noticeably better on the Moog, and it has an integrated grease boot. Now instead of having 3/4" engagement on the rod, I have a full 1.5 to 2 inches on the tie rod. Also, the Moog's come with a castle nut and cotter pin, versus the Nylock nut. Check out the differences here:

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1284_zpsova6huzn.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1284_zpsova6huzn.jpg.html)
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1301_zpshjbmurvp.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1301_zpshjbmurvp.jpg.html)

On to the power steering rack and steering shaft. I thought this part of the build would be a layup...Wrong. First off, my mounting holes for my steering rack were about 1/8" off. I had to elongate the driver's side hole, sand and repaint....no big deal. After that, thanks to Papa Dave's write up, I was able to get my rack in and bolted up without too much fuss.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1255_zpszga7wkvv.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1255_zpszga7wkvv.jpg.html)
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1293_zps9tmuohzy.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1293_zps9tmuohzy.jpg.html)

Front brake lines were next. Honestly, this was not my favorite part of the thread. I noticed that the FFR supplied lines were either too long (60") or too short, so I went to my local auto parts and they had 51" lengths of NiCopp tubing, which worked perfectly for the front end. Very easy to bend and it doesn't rust. Both ends of the tubing are flared, so don't have to mess with that either. I went through 3 pieces (or $18) worth of tubing before I got the hang of it.

Although I'm no Edwardb, it came out pretty good I think. I don't yet have my vinyl clips holding the tubing just yet. Speaking of Edwardb, I used his routing and cut a little notch out on the right side of the front footbox panel at the top so that the Nicopp tubing could run straight through. I also made a little pig tail in the main supply line, as I've read that gives the line a little 'cushion' to ward off vibration. It also helped soak up the additional few inches that I didn't need.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1294_zpshum5kebj.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1294_zpshum5kebj.jpg.html)
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1302_zps6wdqmxjk.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1302_zps6wdqmxjk.jpg.html)

[cv2065]

Here's a few more front brake line pics:

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1296_zpsxsnos1bt.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1296_zpsxsnos1bt.jpg.html)
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1295_zpscpl6txcm.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1295_zpscpl6txcm.jpg.html)
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1298_zpsxwtp09im.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1298_zpsxwtp09im.jpg.html)

Steering shaft was next. Everything lined up great through the DS footbox panel and then I went to install the upper shaft into the lower shaft with the domed washers. Upper shaft fitment was very tight, so much so that could not get the shaft back out. Inquired on the forum and was reminded that this is a safety function and needs to be rectified. I also read in a couple other forums over the years that some had the exact same issue with it being too tight, others too loose, so I sent FFR an email to assist. FFR Customer Service is nothing short of spectacular. After a couple of questions, Dave C. sent me out a replacement and this one fits perfectly! I'll be sending the defective one back. If you are looking for a Cobra kit, this is why you go with FFR!

Another issue that I had that I wasn't aware, was that my frame is of the new style (Satin Finish) and that the pillow block was now offset in a different spot in the cockpit. Without some washers for spacers under the pillow block mounts, the upper driveshaft cannot rotate properly and hits the dash tube.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1260_zps5lqc1ukx.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1260_zps5lqc1ukx.jpg.html)

I rectified this by going with Russ Thompsons Turn Signal Mod, which Russ has all of this worked out. Can't say enough about this mod...top quality!! And if you really want to get some very intuitive pictures and instructions on installation, check out Fixit's thread. John did such a great job I had this installed in 30 minutes. Thanks John!! As John says, the most important thing is alignment and ensuring that the RT assembly moves up and down the shaft. You definitely have to keep the pillow block bolts loose around the shaft until you get it aligned. Tighten down and ensure that the assembly still moves freely up and down the steering shaft. If not, loosen up and try again.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1281_zpskbgqlvqk.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1281_zpskbgqlvqk.jpg.html)
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1283_zpsovckgs2e.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1283_zpsovckgs2e.jpg.html)

My next endeavor is to get the rest of the heat insulation cut for each panel of the passenger footbox and get those panels riveted in. I will also be doing the drivers side inside panel so that I can then run my rear brake lines. Once brake lines are run, I'll be moving to the gas tank and then electrical harness.

[cv2065]

Look what came today! Well, it was a short lived fantasy. I got a great deal on this 'Like New' Ford Performance 427 ($6700) from Amazon Warehouse. Said that it was pristine and never touched. Well, that wasn't exactly true. The engine has never been fired...that part I know, but for some reason, everything is beginning to rust, almost like this sat out in the rain somewhere. Even the ARP bolts are rusting on the bottom side of each bolt, like water dripped off of it for an extended amount of time. Lifters don't come out of their housings and it doesn't look like there is any assembly lube, or any kind of lube for that matter, anywhere in the engine. I also saw a little rust on one of the cam lobes.

I thought about pulling the pan and looking at the caps and rods, but what's the point? I could take it to my local machine shop and have it cleaned up, but not sure what else would have to be done. What a shame for a new engine.

Anyway, good news is that Amazon will be picking it up next week and refunding all of my hard earned cash. I will say that these Ford Racing engines are very nice. Maybe next time...

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1299_zpsb36n3jfa.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1299_zpsb36n3jfa.jpg.html)

[Fixit]

... almost like this sat out in the rain somewhere. Even the ARP bolts are rusting on the bottom side of each bolt, like water dripped off of it for an extended amount of time. Lifters don't come out of their housings and it doesn't look like there is any assembly lube, or any kind of lube for that matter, anywhere in the engine. I also saw a little rust on one of the cam lobes.

"Run Forrest... RUN!!"
I'm glad you're getting your money back on that engine. Frozen lifters... no moly on the camshaft... ??

[cv2065]

"Run Forrest... RUN!!"
I'm glad you're getting your money back on that engine. Frozen lifters... no moly on the camshaft... ??

I know right? Not sure what happened to this thing but man, what a waste. I wouldn’t even attempt to turn it over. Still Puzzling though. Never seen those ARP moly bolts rust. This engine was just made in 12/2017. I think the guy that first bought it also took the rocker arms as well, as there were none when I pulled the valve covers.

[Higgybulin]

Amazon is pretty good about returning your money but there are a lot of shady third party sellers on there.
Higgy

[cv2065]

Amazon is pretty good about returning your money but there are a lot of shady third party sellers on there.
Higgy

No doubt...This one came from the Amazon Warehouse deals.

[Boydster]

Yeah, something weird going on here... no rockers? And those are not the valve covers that Ford supplies with a 427 crate. I guess they could change that, tho. And my 427 HAD been run in and had a hot oil pressure tag with it, but it was very clean and appeared to be a professionally built engine.

[BadAsp427]

Hooked up the flex lines and wasn't real impressed with the quality of the banjo bolts and washers, as one bolt didn't take much to distort the head if your socket wasn't 100% engaged. China quality? I'm looking for a replacement now. One thing to remember is that the banjo bolts are not the same thread size from front to back, so don't get over zealous, like I tend to get, and force something or you'll strip the threads.

Are you still looking for the banjo bolts? I have the Wilwood brakes on my 20th anniversary and do not use Banjo fittings. I have the bolts if you still need. PM me please if I can send them out to you.
Carl

[cv2065]

Made some progress today. Can't emphasize how humid it is here in Florida. I have to change clothes a few times if I plan to stay out in the garage any extended period of time. Price we pay to get this bad boy done!!

Started out with getting the Thermo Cool it cut for the bulk of the foot box panels and firewall. I saw a picture from Jazzman's thread where he rolled out the entire roll of Thermo Cool and laid the parts on top to maximize placement. I did that and looked like the following:

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1303_zpsxlitn8fi.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1303_zpsxlitn8fi.jpg.html)

Embarrassingly enough, I laid out all of the panels upside down, so everything was backwards once I cut it all out. Thought I was going to choke the dog at that point, but remained calm and sat down and ordered another roll from Amazon.

As I was looking over my front brake routing, I wasn't happy with the main line going from the MC, so I gave it another try. This time I put the looped area inside the box and I think it looks much nicer. Was able to use a full stick of 60" NiCopp for the job. Much easier to bend than the FFR provided steel ones. The lines now have plenty of slack in them so there is no stress on the fittings...very easy to screw and unscrew by hand. I don't have have the padded clips or the gravel guard installed yet. Speaking of which, these brake lines are 3/16 in diameter. I can't get the 3/16" gravel guard over the pre-flared ends, so I ordered the next size up which is 1/4". We'll see how they fit. I will say that I'm liking tube bending more than before as I've got some practice.

One thing to note was the minor scratches or scathing I was getting on the tube from my tube bending pliers. Hard to avoid on the tight J bends, so I took a piece of shrink wrap and placed over the tube where I was hooking on with the pliers. Worked great and you can see one in my picture before I took it off.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1306_zpsikbd2ipv.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1306_zpsikbd2ipv.jpg.html)
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1307_zpsjrgr7jch.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1307_zpsjrgr7jch.jpg.html)

Also made it around to getting my passenger foot box installed. Lots of fun here. I used black silicone caulking which is much better to clean up than the clear. Box panels installed easily and also made a patch piece for the hole on the bottom right side of the box. There is also a 3.5" sliver of space at the top of the inside panel where it meets the cockpit center piece. I cut a strip for that as well. Kept thinking about Jazzman (Kevin) stating that he's getting some heat inside the cockpit after the first few weeks of driving around, so I'm hunting down any gaps and sealing them up! These just need to be painted and caulked into position.

I started cutting this .040" aluminum with my Dremel, but hard around the corners. I tried some tin snips and much easier/faster to cut.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1308_zpsvfxkewc3.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1308_zpsvfxkewc3.jpg.html)
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1309_zpsll3g07wz.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1309_zpsll3g07wz.jpg.html)
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1310_zpsiww6sjrl.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1310_zpsiww6sjrl.jpg.html)

My last back ordered item are my rear brake pads. Going to go and grab a set so that I can get on with my rear brake lines and setup. Fuel tank is also laid out and ready to go.

[BB767]

93694

Hi CV,
You had inquired about my Throttle set up but I could not post a picture there so I'll reply here. As you can see I simply bolted the ball joint of the throttle linkage directly into one of the existing holes in the FFR throttle pedal. There are three, choose the one that gives you the throw that you want, mine worked best in the last (top) hole. Have over 1000 miles on the car now and it works great, feels good.
Brien

[cv2065]

93694

Hi CV,
You had inquired about my Throttle set up but I could not post a picture there so I'll reply here. As you can see I simply bolted the ball joint of the throttle linkage directly into one of the existing holes in the FFR throttle pedal. There are three, choose the one that gives you the throw that you want, mine worked best in the last (top) hole. Have over 1000 miles on the car now and it works great, feels good.
Brien

Thanks Brien! Question - Regarding the ball joints that screw into your throttle linkage rods, were both sides of your rods threaded? Only one side of mine are. Sent Forte a note but haven't heard back yet. Thanks again for the pics.

[BB767]

I do not believe they were. Most of them needed to be trimmed to fit then threaded. I think I even needed to extend some of the center holes after cutting to length.

[cv2065]

Ok...been a busy week even outside the build, but have managed to get some stuff done. I'm really waiting for the weather to cool off. We're going into October and the temps were at 100 today. Would make building much more enjoyable, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do!

Starting with the rear brake lines. I'm very happy with the way that they turned out. I used the pre-flared lengths from Advance Auto using one 60" line from the MC, then a union right under the driver footbox, then another 60" tube to the rear fitting. Too bad I don't have more to do...actually really enjoying running the line and solving the 'fitment puzzle'. It's especially challenging when you are dealing with fixed lengths. Oh, and I used the poly armor lines for the rear brakes since they were going under the car. Not really that much harder to bend than the Nicopp, but you can feel the weight and durability. Not sure if they are actually more durable, but seemed like the thing do to...:rolleyes: Came out like this:

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1336_zpsbblsjxk8.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1336_zpsbblsjxk8.jpg.html)
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1316_zpsz67rsx6s.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1316_zpsz67rsx6s.jpg.html)

I was looking at my rear brake line that runs from side to side and noticed a kink. Not sure how I missed that but had to create another piece. No big deal, but used the poly armor this time which is why there is a green and copper version in the pics. Came out great and only took about 10 minutes.

I considered a couple of places to place my rear brake braided fittings and decided to place on the 3" tube right above the recommended cross beam. This came back to bite me a bit on the passenger side, as its right where my fuel line will run, so I'll have to relocate that one to the cross beam.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1339_zpsinqxwvle.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1339_zpsinqxwvle.jpg.html)

I haven't secured the lines yet with clips in the event that I need tighten or move something during the bleeding process.

Next up was my rear brakes calipers/pads. Still haven't received my back ordered brake pads, so ordered some from a 3rd party supplier so I could get the show on the road. These were the same rear pads as what comes with the complete kit, Stop Tech, model #309-0545. I will say that installing these pads does not line up with the instructions on the FFR site and creates a little confusion. For one, the pads do not look like the picture, as they have the spring on top that presses against the caliper. The fronts do not have this. Two, they don't use brake pad clips in the instructions, when you clearly need them to soak up about 1/16" of space and keep from being too noisy. Three, the instructions have you assemble the pads before installing on the rotor. Thanks to Rich pointing it out, everything needs to be placed on the rotor first, which makes installing the clips and brake pads MUCH easier than trying to balance it all on the bench. After figuring it out, all went in easily. I painted my adapter brackets black as they looked like they were ready to rust.


http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1328_zpslyjuiqdf.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1328_zpslyjuiqdf.jpg.html)
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1327_zps2kms6euf.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1327_zps2kms6euf.jpg.html)


Caliper brake lines aren't installed in the pictures, but I have since, and even at 17" (3" shorter than the front) they seem a little long but manageable.

I also made sure that I didn't forget to fill the holes in the spindle that leads down to the hub with silicone. Don't want anything getting down in there.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1331_zpsglfhm1ye.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1331_zpsglfhm1ye.jpg.html)

[cv2065]

Moving on to the fuel tank. I had two sets of o rings in my kit for the fuel sender and pickup. One set was thicker and round, the other were thin and square. I picked the thicker round ones. When installing these, the FFR video says to use a fuel/oil resistance sealer, and they were using 'Seal All'. This sealer hardens up and I just couldn't see using that on a rubber o ring, so I used some Permatex gasket sealer and dressing. This helps seal the o-ring, but also stays pliable.

Installation was simple and uneventful. I will say that I used the Ford part F4ZZ9072DA for the filler neck seal. I had read Edwardb's post stating that Ford part was much more robust than the FFR supplied part, and as usual, he was right. I thought I had taken a comparison pic, but can't find it. The rubber is much more robust and the inner seal has secondary ridge that helps seal against the fill tube. $35 later, but I think its worth it to ensure a leak free system. As you can see, I also bought the larger check valve from Breeze. It's made of plastic instead of metal.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1337_zpsliaytc0b.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1337_zpsliaytc0b.jpg.html)
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/F4ZZ9072DA-1_zps4gclempi.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/F4ZZ9072DA-1_zps4gclempi.jpg.html)
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1338_zpsul4kwdjz.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1338_zpsul4kwdjz.jpg.html)
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1319_zpsyoo5urq6.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1319_zpsyoo5urq6.jpg.html)

I also ensured to install the 4 barrel nuts for the fuel tank mod. I used the 7/16 sized nuts (about 2" in length) and 1" SS flanged bolts. I was able to source both of these from Lowes.

I'm using the Breeze 3/8" pickup, as those are the size lines I'm running for my 427. Nicely made piece with a screen on the end. I am going to use regular rubber hoses at the tank and to the mechanical fuel pump as the pressure is low with this setup and should be all I need.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1315_zpskwl4sg2z.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1315_zpskwl4sg2z.jpg.html)

Speaking of fuel lines, I was able to run that as well. I had to choose the passenger side or the driver's side. I think most run it up the driver's side, but since I'm running 3/8" Nicopp line, it just seemed too congested with the brake lines, so I ran up the passenger side. I ran one piece of 72" tube from the rear and then one union to another 60" piece up and around the front 4" tube. Again, the NiCopp line, even though it was 3/8", still easy to bend with a typical tube bender. I have not bent the final 3" up to meet the fuel pump rubber, as I'll do that after the engine is installed so I can line it up a little easier. Thought it turned out pretty nice. Just have to add the clips.

Anyone know where I can get 3/8" female barbed fuel line connectors? I see a bunch of them for NPT fittings but not for flared fuel lines. Nothing local either. The FFR kit comes with them but they are of course for 5/16" lines. You'd think it would a staple at the local auto parts.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1332_zps4qfgfvat.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1332_zps4qfgfvat.jpg.html)
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1334_zpswhjyayfc.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1334_zpswhjyayfc.jpg.html)

[cv2065]

I did install the accelerator pedal and started laying out how it all fits together with the Forte mechanical linkage. Looks simple enough but BB767 was able to send me a few pics on how he aligned his. If you do have the Forte setup, you will have to drill out the linkage holes on the stock accelerator a little, as they are too small to accept the swivel fittings. Also, I'm trying to figure out if the linkage bracket on the accelerator pedal is designed to move up as it has an allen headed screw at the joint. The way it is now, the accelerator rod is hitting the interior wall, so it has to move up. I'll play around with it a little more, but if anyone has any other suggestions, I'm all ears!

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1318_zpst4ec9yub.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1318_zpst4ec9yub.jpg.html)
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1330_zpsbpotober.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1330_zpsbpotober.jpg.html)

Next on the agenda is to start on my electrical and bleed my brakes once I get the passenger side bracket relocated.

[cv2065]

Haven't posted in a while, but LOTS going on.

First off, I did get to my electrical wiring harness and began sorting through it. First piece was to get the fuse box situated. The entire assembly went without a hitch, although it was a little trying getting it all to line up while drilling my holes as positioning yourself is a little awkward and the assembly frame concaves a little bit when riveting everything down. As with everything else, the plate was painted SG black.

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I fed all of the main harness wiring through the middle opening so it would pass right over the steering column. I have 3 holes cut in the firewall. I had 2 and one was behind one of the dash supports, so I evened out the space and cut a 3rd one. All of the wire harnesses passed through with grommets without any issues. One of my grommets was backwards as pulled out of the box, but it was already installed so had to control the OCD thing.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1412_zpsxy9lgliu.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1412_zpsxy9lgliu.jpg.html)
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I also installed the inertia switch just to the right of the steering column.
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As I connected the front harness to the main, I was having an issue finding a suitable location for the larger connector. The inboard side of the DS footbox has the Forte mechanical linkage arm coming up and I didn't want to place anything on top of my MCs feeder lines or brake lines, so I decided to run it up the outboard side of the box and out that hole. It's better from both a functional and aesthetic perspective. Papa did the same thing and said that the front light harness on the passenger side 'might' need to be extended due to the additional couple of inches that might be used to route it that way, but I'm good with the trade off.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1360_zpszju9qcdl.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1360_zpszju9qcdl.jpg.html)

The F-Panel notching, as recommended by Edwardb, came in to play as the front harness was run, as it gives makes room for the harness and kind of gives it a place to sit as it winds through the front. I have the Breeze lower radiator mount that will go in later, and the harness will route across that, so I have it just sitting for now.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1367_zpskh75gvm5.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1367_zpskh75gvm5.jpg.html)
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[cv2065]

No real issues hooking up the rear harness, although I did discover that my fuel sender weather pack had two male plugs. Papa was kind enough to send me a female that he had left over and I ordered the Weatherpack tool on Amazon for $7. Took 10 mins to change it all out. I'll be using more Weatherpacks on my lights.

I ran the rear harness up the drivers side of the tunnel as instructed, but I may run it up the passenger side as it 'might' interfere with my mechanical linkage...but we'll have to wait and see.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1417_zpsnhqjbk1j.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1417_zpsnhqjbk1j.jpg.html)

Next up was my triple CNC brake reservoir. I luckily have a aluminum place here in Orlando that cuts any thickness, any size for simple walk in business, so I bought a 4x3 1/4" plate of aluminum for about $10. I'll be visiting them again for a couple pieces of .040 aluminum to fabricate a couple of side trunk panels as I've seen many do. Painted the plate gloss black and affixed it to the frame.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1343_zpsmshjcvzy.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1343_zpsmshjcvzy.jpg.html)
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I really liked how it turned out. I have stainless fittings in all holes from ACE and had to be a little careful on how things bolted up as my brake line runs right behind on the frame tube.

Couple of things on the CNC reservoirs. First, there is some kind of discolored oxidation on the side finish of the canisters. I've looked through the forum and see it on just about everyone's. Must be something to do with the manufacturing, but with it being one of the center pieces in the engine compartment, I sent it out for black powder coating. Just the square canisters will be done with everything else taped off, but I think it will look much better with the black/stainless contrast. I'll be changing out the top 12 screws with button head SS as well.

I'm also looking to change out the stock fittings on the bottom to 90 degree elbows as others have done. My only concern is that when fitting an elbow, if the fitting tightens up on the opposite side of where the elbow needs to be, I want to be sure that I don't strip the NPT threads on the canister itself. Once it gets back, I'll hook everything else up. I still need to deal with how the 3 fluid tubes are coming out through the larger hole. I've got a rubber fitting, just need to see how it fits.

I ordered the Breeze front battery box assembly and was able to get it fitted and sent out for powder coating as well. Very nicely done piece and highly recommended. I will admit, the drilling, tapping and measuring for this box to ensure that everything lined up was a little time consuming. The instructions say to get your rivets on the cross member done first then tap the 4" tube to line up. IMO, one should tap the two front screws first then hit the pop rivets. In the event of mis-alignment, its much easier to fix a pop rivet hole than a tapped hole. Everything looks great and I'll update the pics as soon as its back and installed.

Two things to note. As you see in the pics, I had to dog ear a corner of the box as it was sitting right on top of the weld at the center of the X brace and could not sit flush. Also, once sat flush against the x brace, the box was about 1/8" off from being square against the front 4" tube. Not sure if it is the box or frame itself, but no biggie.

The instructions do say that the holes drilled for the box are for multiple vehicle designs, so you may have to adjust some. My bottom hole was too low to get a drill bit squared up and others had to be drilled, as the instructions call for a total of 5 on the x brace.

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[cv2065]

I was able to tackle my e-brake in a couple of hours. I followed edwardb's lead and ordered the Lokar assembly. Filed it down, drilled some new holes and installed. I had to angle the assembly a bit from front to back to ensure that no contact was made with the frame and hardware. I'm sure that further adjustment might be needed when the panels are back on. I will say that if you are going to do the modification, that you pay attention to how the bolts are aligned and facing. I had to pull it a couple of times to rearrange a bit.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1402_zpsmj7c58cy.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1402_zpsmj7c58cy.jpg.html)
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I was about 1/16" too high on my two wheels, but it should function just fine. I wasn't able to get a drill on the tube from the inboard side, so had to measure and drill from the other side, where I was just a little off. You have to pull the e-brake up about 1/2 way for full engagement. I'd like to tighten that up a bit on final assembly.

[cv2065]

I have the Forte mechanical linkage and wanted to start tackling what I could of that before my engine arrives (November 19th is the completion date). I was a little staggered on my final engine decision, so delayed it a bit, but all A OK!

I drilled the first fitting through the 2" tubing. I saw that a few others did the same and thought it was the most stable, plus it gets it low enough where there are no worries at all with it hitting the top of the DS footbox. I bought a box of 180 grommets at Harbor Freight for $6. Comes with 8 sizes of grommets and plenty of them. Consider that you might pay $2 for just one grommet at Lowes and its a bargain. Unfortunately, 3" chrome 3/8-24 screws do not come at a bargain at ACE, as I needed 2 of them at $5 each. That's a hard size to come by and ACE only has them in chrome, so really no choice, but of course, they look great. You can see how it peeks out on the inside of the 2" tube. Nothing is tightened up at this point...just getting the lay of the land.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1420_zpsowhz2nil.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1420_zpsowhz2nil.jpg.html)

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When trying to level out the mechanical throttle bar against the side wall of the footbox to get the proper place for drilling, its a little challenging as the box sidewall sits at an angle. In order to get close fitting 5/8" diameter grommet in place and still be able to spin the rod, I had to go pretty large at a 1/2" drill bit.

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I did cut and tap the interior rod (1/4-28) and loosely set it up for operation. I cut the rod to about 13". All looks good from this end at this point. I won't be able to get the rest done until I can align with the throttle assembly on the carb.

[cv2065]

Unfortunately, or fortunately, depending on how you look at it, I had to revamp my fuel system, as using a mechanical pump is not going to be an option with the 427 and PS pump/pulley system. So, decided to go with an in-tank pump, regulator and return line. The Pro M Racing hangar just arrived, with the Aeromotive Stealth 340 pump. Go big or go home right?

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Wasn't aware that some cutting needed to be done to the tank to fit the Pro M Racing hangar, but consulted with Boydster who gave me a few ideas on technique and product selection (Gotta love the members on this forum!). Was a pretty easy endeavor and duct taping the shop vac around the hole worked like a champ to ensure nothing got inside the tank while I was grinding away with my Dremel and grind stone. Below is a during the operation and afterward shots. I also used duct tape (sticky side up) both inside and outside the hole to pick up any stray micro shavings.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1409_zpsnyinlq3z.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1409_zpsnyinlq3z.jpg.html)

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The Pro M Racing instructions are very good, and state to cut two sides of the tank opening. You really only need to cut the larger side. If you lightly press on the return line of the hanger when inserting, it goes in and out easily.

As you can see in the pics, the Pro M hangar has two different sized plugs. Have no idea why they did that, as the little plug is not that common. I will most likely cut the connectors off of the hanger side and just reconnect with butt connectors with the Aeromotive pigtail and then use some fuel resistant shrink tubing. Anyone know where I can score a couple of pieces? Seems that the outlets all want you to buy in some kind of bulk, except for McMasters, but I'm not 100% that their version is gasoline resistant. If anyone knows, just let me know.

I'll be running the Aeromotive A1000 regulator for carbs. That should be coming this week with a Trickflow canister filter by Tuesday, then I'll have all my parts and can start effectively planning out my new fuel lines.

[cv2065]

Look what my powder coater sent back to me this week! This Gloss Black will look great! As I was researching experiences with wheel sheens, I saw a lot of likes for Black Satin, but I also read from a few that Satin looks 'dirty' all the time. Not sure how true that is, but the wet look is always in style and these are the first of my Ruby Red/Blacked out color scheme.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c310/cv2065/IMG_1411_zpsxw5okl8c.jpg (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/cv2065/media/IMG_1411_zpsxw5okl8c.jpg.html)

One thing on the spinners. When powder coated, I've seen examples where everything is black, including the threads. If coated lightly, can the threads of the spinners be powder coated as well without having functionality issues?

[Papa]

Looks sharp! I'd not recommend coating the threads on the spinner parts, though.

[edwardb]

Nice progress! Couple quick comments: The CNC reservoirs are cast, so not the shiny finish like a rolled or machine cut aluminum piece. I don't think they're oxidized or anything. Just the natural grey of cast aluminum. Like you said, pretty typically. It's possible to polish them with products made for that purpose and make them a little shinier and up the bling factor. Powder coating is another approach. Hopefully you disassembled the top from the reservoirs? I don't think that gasket would like the heat too much. Also I assume you're aware powder coating isn't 100% resistant to brake fluid? So be careful. It won't strip off like paint. But it will very quickly discolor or dull the sheen.

I see you're using lots of SS hardware. Looks nice and I use it too. Hopefully you're dabbing a little anti-seize on those threads during assembly. Don't need a lot. But it will prevent the unfortunate habit of SS to gall and then seize. They don't come apart at that point without damage. Unfortunately, I know this from experience.

For your fuel pump/hangar connections, have been through that a couple times. I haven't found heat shrink tubing that seems specifically made for that. What I have found, and use, are Molex Perma-Seal butt connectors. List gasoline as one of the things that are compatible with. DelCity.net has them in straight through or step down sizes: https://www.delcity.net/store/Perma!Seal-Heat-Shrink-&-Crimp/p_812022.h_812023. https://www.delcity.net/store/Perma!Seal-Heat-Shrink-&-Crimp-Step!Down/p_812028.h_812029. Unfortunately, you have to buy at least 10. So you'll have some left over. But not too expensive and not something you want to fail.

[cv2065]

Looks sharp! I'd not recommend coating the threads on the spinner parts, though.

Thanks Dave. I'll probably just have the powder coater tape the threads off. Was just thinking about that edge that is vulnerable to damage, but they shouldn't be coming on/off to often.

[cv2065]

Nice progress! Couple quick comments: The CNC reservoirs are cast, so not the shiny finish like a rolled or machine cut aluminum piece. I don't think they're oxidized or anything. Just the natural grey of cast aluminum. Like you said, pretty typically. It's possible to polish them with products made for that purpose and make them a little shinier and up the blink factor. Powder coating is another approach. Hopefully you disassembled the top from the reservoirs? I don't think that gasket would like the heat too much. Also I assume you're aware powder coating isn't 100% resistant to brake fluid? So be careful. It won't strip off like paint. But it will very quickly discolor or dull the sheen.

I see you're using lots of SS hardware. Looks nice and I use it too. Hopefully you're dabbing a little anti-seize on those threads during assembly. Don't need a lot. But it will prevent the unfortunate habit of SS to gall and then seize. They don't come apart at that point without damage. Unfortunately, I know this from experience.

For your fuel pump/hangar connections, have been through that a couple times. I haven't found heat shrink tubing that seems specifically made for that. What I have found, and use, are Molex Perma-Seal butt connectors. List gasoline as one of the things that are compatible with. DelCity.net has them in straight through or step down sizes: https://www.delcity.net/store/Perma!Seal-Heat-Shrink-&-Crimp/p_812022.h_812023. https://www.delcity.net/store/Perma!Seal-Heat-Shrink-&-Crimp-Step!Down/p_812028.h_812029. Unfortunately, you have to buy at least 10. So you'll have some left over. But not too expensive and not something you want to fail.

Thanks for the feedback Paul. Regarding the CNC reservoirs, I disassembled all the way down to just the square cans. Took the top metal and gasket pieces off and set them aside. Told the powder coater to make sure that he didn't hit the top of the can where the square gasket sits, or inside. Also, per your thread, I replaced the hardware on the top of each canister. I'll definitely be watching what I'm doing around the brake fluid piece, as I know it will eat anything it touches paint wise.

I'll head over to Del City and pick some of those up. I know it might be overkill, but was thinking of shrinking some of that DR-25 shrink over it for added assurance or are the butt connectors enough?

[edwardb]

I'll head over to Del City and pick some of those up. I know it might be overkill, but was thinking of shrinking some of that DR-25 shrink over it for added assurance or are the butt connectors enough?

You shrink them with a heat gun after crimping. They seal up really well. I don't think anything else is necessary.

[Pat427]

Looking forward to following your build. It's almost identical to my plans.

[cv2065]

Been a while since my last post, but progress is happening. Probably not at Carl's speed, but it's there...:cool:

Ok, so was able to get my Pro M Racing fuel assembly completed. Cut the connectors off of the Pro M housing and butt connected it with the pigtail from the Aeromotive a1000 pump.

Two things. First, I used the Perma Seal butt connectors per Paul's recommendation and I'll tell you what, those are the real deal!! They shrink up nice and I had a sample test in fuel for over a week and no issues at all. They have some kind of jelly inside that liquifies when heated up then hardens up when cold. Bought myself a 'real' butt connector ratcheting crimper. It was $50, but hey, gotta have the right tools and the old standby cheapy was not cutting it for an 8GA crimp.

Now, being the anal person that I am, I thought that I would put come DC-25 heat shrink over it for some "double protection". Either I didn't have the real deal DC-25 or it simply swells up after a few days in fuel. Needless to say that I didn't use it and stuck with the Perma Seal connectors.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/ee0732a4-fdf7-46f4-9d26-2afabfe50e12-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/ee0732a4-fdf7-46f4-9d26-2afabfe50e12)

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If you are using the Pro M Racing fuel pump housing, you'll want to ensure that the sock that goes on the end is in the right position before inserting it into the tank. I didn't do that and it got all jacked up and folded, so had to pull the housing to fix. And I don't have to tell anyone that has installed this housing, that's not a fun deal, as the sides of the tank are like razors, and want to cut up your wiring as you try and wiggle it through in the right position. None the less, got it in and ready to rumble.

[cv2065]

Next up was the Trick Flow filter. I had a small inline one picked out from Aeromotive, but then saw what Paul was using (Trickflow Cannister) and had to have it. So, it installed without a hitch.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/4b8b5823-0f46-4691-9fec-c6dd90b88c79-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/4b8b5823-0f46-4691-9fec-c6dd90b88c79)

[edwardb]

Next up was the Trick Flow pump...

For the record, a filter not a pump. But then you knew that... It's a nice piece. Great progress on your build.

[cv2065]

I ran both of my 3/8" line from front to back. Actually, wasn't that bad once I got the hang of it, as its quite a bit thicker than the 3/16" brake line, but the Nicopp made it easy to bend. If you are using one of these type of tubing benders, you'll want to ensure that you have equal pressure on both handles when bending. If not, you may end up with a small indention in your tube where the bracket holds it in place. Nothing that will affect operation, but if you are into good looking tubing, may cramp your style.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/22ca309f-2dd3-4b29-8bd1-ffe4521e54d3-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/22ca309f-2dd3-4b29-8bd1-ffe4521e54d3)

As soon as I get all of my tubing brackets in place, I'll post a play by play around how I routed it in case anyone is doing the same with the 3/8 lines.

I did get my Aeromotive Fuel Regulator in place. I pushed it as far as I could towards the passenger footbox with clearance in mind. The Input is right on the nose of the regulator, so didn't want it to get close to anything hot. Man, Aeromotive makes some high quality stuff. Hopefully it works as good as it looks.

Also, bought an Auto Meter fuel pressure gauge and installed it. Was surprised that it didn't install face up on the Automotive regulator, but I guess its more situated to a driver's side readout when at the carb. Either way, should be good to go and high quality piece as well.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/f2a536af-6cd2-4f36-9311-db2883839116-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/f2a536af-6cd2-4f36-9311-db2883839116)

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And per a few people's suggestion, I moved my wiper motor up a bit, which I think looks much better. Just used a couple of plastic plugs from ACE to plug the open holes. Can't even tell really.

Next up for today is to adjust my accelerator pedal and start with the seam seal on my footboxes. I am waiting on one more compression fitting from Breeze and I'll finish up my fuel lines.

[cv2065]

For the record, a filter not a pump. But then you knew that... It's a nice piece. Great progress on your build.

LOL....Thanks Paul! I'm into my 6th beer...:cool:

[BadAsp427]

Been a while since my last post, but progress is happening. Probably not at Carl's speed, but it's there...:cool:

Thanks for the Shout Out... It's not that I'm building any faster than anyone else, it's that I have no life.... that allows me to spend about 25-30 hours per week on my build. Your car is looking awesome, must be the "anal" side of you making it look so good...

[cv2065]

Thanks for the Shout Out... It's not that I'm building any faster than anyone else, it's that I have no life.... that allows me to spend about 25-30 hours per week on my build. Your car is looking awesome, must be the "anal" side of you making it look so good...

LOL...You crack me up Carl. Thanks for the kudos. I could be wrong, but I certainly think you have the record for fastest build!

[cv2065]

So finally got my CNC reservoir back from powder coat. It looks great. Hooked it up today. The last canister is about 10.5" away from the 3/4" tubing at the footbox, so should be good to go.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/4427fe59-b67d-4d37-aafa-bcfe47eab231-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/4427fe59-b67d-4d37-aafa-bcfe47eab231)

Since I switched the hose routing to the left side of the footbox, I had all 3 hoses coming out of the passenger side hole. The fit was tight and I wasn't happy with the way it was squeezing one of the hoses no matter how I modified the grommet, so I cut a hole for the hydraulic clutch hose (red) and ran the two brake line hoses out of the larger passenger hole. I also popped a couple more rivets into the front footbox panel...It's now solid as a rock.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/4be12aa3-dccc-4948-8ef2-352c167462e6-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/4be12aa3-dccc-4948-8ef2-352c167462e6)

I wanted to finish that larger hole with a grommet, and it was a little difficult finding a 1.25" hole grommet that had the correct amount of recess in the channel. I found a grommet for Mack Truck that fit the bill and it fits perfectly without any modification. My package says 1999, so must be new old stock. ;)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/8eeac5b0-1231-480d-9ebe-8598cb0bd818-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/8eeac5b0-1231-480d-9ebe-8598cb0bd818)

So everything is clamped and routed up and I'm finally ready to bleed my brakes. Have to wait until the wife gets home tomorrow as she'll be my brake pedal pumper. I've learned that fast bleed fittings and one man kits have their place, but having a second person man the brake pedal with clear tubing and a coke bottle is quickest and easiest for me.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/c9bdb7b8-f29f-4f62-80eb-764e494504f6-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/c9bdb7b8-f29f-4f62-80eb-764e494504f6)
https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/cfbba358-6bc5-4131-99ad-b7cea0521710-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/cfbba358-6bc5-4131-99ad-b7cea0521710)

[cv2065]

While I was waiting for a dual hose clamp for my fuel lines, I put together a charcoal filter per edwardb's build thread. Nothing exciting here. I have the Big Bore Vent Check Valve kit from Breeze and it feeds to the filter with 1/2" hose. I'm sure this baby will have no problem breathing.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/d0030df0-038e-4442-8496-7e61bbe90451-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/d0030df0-038e-4442-8496-7e61bbe90451)

[cv2065]

Finally was able to complete my re-run of my fuel lines. Pretty happy with them with respect to the complexity of the bends. I did have some limitations with the bender I was using, as there is only so close you can get to the next bend. I'd say that 2.5" is about the minimum space you can have in-between bends, but it all worked out really well since many of the tubes are indeed 2". I've got 3/8" lines including the return.

So, starting at the rear of the tank and ran 6AN flexible lines from the tank to the Trick Flow Filter. I used all pre-made Russell flexible lines. They are a little expensive but good quality and you can get them in 12" increments.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/bd2ca1a9-ba9a-413f-83b2-74e8a254fa24-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/bd2ca1a9-ba9a-413f-83b2-74e8a254fa24)

Trick Flow to my Ham-Let Fittings and the start of the 3/8" hard lines. I used a 50' roll of NiCopp line from Amazon and used 4 compression fittings. I pressure tested these fittings at 85 psi before I installed in the car just in case I had a leak. Test was good. First time I've used these and very high quality. I got mine for $15 each from Breeze Automotive.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/53a4a322-37ca-4738-b3b5-8893677e3db7-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/53a4a322-37ca-4738-b3b5-8893677e3db7)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/d900e5b0-f737-455d-ad42-92fa45901117-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/d900e5b0-f737-455d-ad42-92fa45901117)

Hard lines bent around the 2" tubing and down to the 4" tube.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/c64a0dd8-5603-4587-92b3-86bef59063d3-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/c64a0dd8-5603-4587-92b3-86bef59063d3)

Down the 4" tube.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/6ea20e71-a735-4e15-86b9-0f4038d72ef9-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/6ea20e71-a735-4e15-86b9-0f4038d72ef9)

Up into the passenger side footbox.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/738c23e0-3e74-44b6-ac5d-3c443a2430f6-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/738c23e0-3e74-44b6-ac5d-3c443a2430f6)

And then to the AN hoses that lead to my fuel regulator. Ideally I needed about an inch or so more tubing, but instead of making another line, I bent the tubing a bit to accommodate my fuel regulator. I have my input coming straight out of the face of the regulator and the output coming straight down. I wanted to have the least amount of hard bends in the flex hose as possible, so I could have cut the output hard line shorter to keep things all parallel, but I was afraid that I might not be able to access the fitting once the engine is in. Looks a little uneven by my OCD meter, but its functional.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/7f66123c-b3bf-46f0-a8fc-8b08f1f7d562-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/7f66123c-b3bf-46f0-a8fc-8b08f1f7d562)

[cv2065]

I also received my RT gas pedal. Pedal is really nicely constructed and gives the ability to adjust it up and down on the 3/4" tube. What I like most about it is that the connecting piece sits higher than the stock pedal and my Forte mechanical linkage has full range of motion without hitting the side of the footbox and the pedal hits the back of the footbox before it comes into contact with the 3/4" tubing at the top. This makes for an easy pedal stop.

Just have to get my inside footbox panel back in so I can hook up my linkage again.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/aae4910b-5f61-430f-b82a-d4904dd40620-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/aae4910b-5f61-430f-b82a-d4904dd40620)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/8b7b9035-f175-4471-813f-e50f9c401fb9-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/8b7b9035-f175-4471-813f-e50f9c401fb9)

[Boydster]

Nice work. Keep at it...

[cv2065]

Lots going on since my last post.

Finished up my Forte mechanical linkage. I could not seem to find a rubber grommet that would go inside the inside driver foot box panel that would not create too much friction for the linkage rod to rotate, so bought a plastic furniture grommet that fit perfectly with no friction. I drilled my supporting rod arms into the 2" frame for the ultimate support.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/06b9f118-6b59-4f20-bf72-6648c0dc6716-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/06b9f118-6b59-4f20-bf72-6648c0dc6716)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/f6d05b87-6965-4aed-9205-3c1a8a4ebef3-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/f6d05b87-6965-4aed-9205-3c1a8a4ebef3)

As I was finishing up the linkage, I noticed that the RT gas pedal was a little too close to the side wall when fully depressed. I called Russ and he recommended just 'dog legging' the pedal just a hair. Put it in my vice and bent it just slightly and now is in perfect position.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/78467704-9c98-416c-8938-7c5952a2fe6d-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/78467704-9c98-416c-8938-7c5952a2fe6d)

[cv2065]

While I was at it, I bought some Thermo Tec heat barrier (Up to 2K degrees) from Amazon to double insulate the bottom of the driver's side front panel and inside wall. Might be overkill but was easy to cut and install. I'll do the same for the passenger side. Here's what I used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00029KC2K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/9fe0eb19-fe60-410f-979d-00143637a189-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/9fe0eb19-fe60-410f-979d-00143637a189)

[cv2065]

After reading another build thread I saw Jeff Kleiner's post about the brackets and swivel bushing for the steering shaft needing to go on the OUTSIDE of the driver's box. Checked mine and this wasn't the case. Even though some have put it inside like I had it, I wanted to get it perfect, so disassembled it all and without the additional slack at the PS fitting, it literally fit like a glove. Now I know why the steering column comes in two pieces. You have to disassemble quite a few things to get it to fit back up through the pedal box if it has already been put together. But it's completed and we are good to go.

The 3 black bolts that go through the front of the footbox to hold the pedal box mount had already started to rust. I replaced them with SS hardware while I was at it.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/4536aec3-0db9-4966-ac8d-d73da8e3d1a3-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/4536aec3-0db9-4966-ac8d-d73da8e3d1a3)

[cv2065]

Next up was the dash and firewall. I installed some Thermotec on the firewall and temporarily put my under dash filler panel in place from replicaparts.com.

The underdash panel is very nice gauge aluminum and affixes to the 2" beam. I cut a 4"x6" square in the middle for easy access of wiring later on down the road and will be putting some trim around it for detail. I also had to widen the section around the pillow block/steering boss as I don't think the design has been changed as of yet for the new FFR design. Took 5 minutes, so not a big deal. I also cut a hole for a USB charging port, inertia switch as well as the dimmer switch for the lights.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/ac66d185-6396-40ea-a325-3b96966d3a42-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/ac66d185-6396-40ea-a325-3b96966d3a42)

On to my dashboard. I have everything wired up at this point, using the Perma Seal butt connectors. Only issue I ran into while wiring was one of the water temp gauge connectors was wired backwards on the RF harness. Called Ron Francis and they sent out new connectors, pins and a removal tool. Excellent customer service!!

Still cleaning up the wiring a little but will say that the dash is a pretty impressive piece. At first glance, you think its just molded plastic to look like material, but its actually a leather like material molded to the plastic top. I think it will hold up very well to the elements as you don't have to worry about glues or lifting...at least I don't think...

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/f5efb841-8a2e-418e-8ffe-1c5469e75846-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/f5efb841-8a2e-418e-8ffe-1c5469e75846)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/116ce15b-71b5-4865-a6ed-8802f85a9e2e-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/116ce15b-71b5-4865-a6ed-8802f85a9e2e)

Per the picture, the glovebox was also completed. Couple of things here. Badasp recommended the JB Weld Plastic Bonder #50139 for the metal hinges to the plastic. Carl was right and this stuff bonded perfectly. I'd guess the door would tear up before this comes unbonded, but time will tell. I'll get some kind of black covering to blend it in with the door.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/50bbfcb8-809c-496d-8a27-e56100c4d2ce-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/50bbfcb8-809c-496d-8a27-e56100c4d2ce)

After I put the glovebox together, the only screws holding the box itself at the top were the locking plate screws so I could have either used a glue of some kind of affix the box a little better to the dash or some additional screws. I chose the screws so now it's rock solid.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/ffe48479-a18e-4900-8fc8-fd7108d16e98-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/ffe48479-a18e-4900-8fc8-fd7108d16e98)

I am also planning on a wifi radio, so cut a 3" hole at the back of the glovebox that fits the Rockville circular radio perfectly with less than 3" of mounting depth. By the way, a variety of hole saw sizes in one kit can be had at Harbor Freight for less than $10 and worked great.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/bdffcd6e-6280-43bf-82b0-574dda8a43fd-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/bdffcd6e-6280-43bf-82b0-574dda8a43fd)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/643fab22-c794-4135-9a47-98e639be8451-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/643fab22-c794-4135-9a47-98e639be8451)

[cv2065]

Last thing for the dash was to enlarge the steering column hole to accommodate the RT turn signal mod. As other's have said, the plastic cut very easily and I scored it from the back with an Exacto knife. I fitted it but might need some additional minor trimming once temp installed, which will be soon.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/1c524481-21bc-42d4-b020-228beca957b8-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/1c524481-21bc-42d4-b020-228beca957b8)

[edwardb]

After reading another build thread I saw Jeff Kleiner's post about the brackets and swivel bushing for the steering shaft needing to go on the OUTSIDE of the driver's box. Checked mine and this wasn't the case. Even though some have put it inside like I had it, I wanted to get it perfect, so disassembled it all and without the additional slack at the PS fitting, it literally fit like a glove. Now I know why the steering column comes in two pieces. You have to disassemble quite a few things to get it to fit back up through the pedal box if it has already been put together. But it's completed and we are good to go.

Just to confirm, you have both sides of the pressed steel flanges flanges of the steering column bearing assembly on the outside of the footbox? It's not 100% clear from your picture. Just wanted to confirm you're not describing having one half inside and one half outside. That wouldn't capture the bearing properly.

BTW, absolutely nothing wrong with having to mount the bearing assembly on the inside of the footbox, other than it's a little harder to assemble. But once there, accomplishes exactly the same thing. The problem some have had (including me) is with the bearing assembly on the outside, with some steering racks the universal joint on the steering column bottoms out in the bearing before the other end can be engaged into the steering rack. Some have resorted to loosening and moving the entire rack in order to get the steering column plugged in. Way too much work. In that case, put the bearing assembly on the inside. The other reason to put it on the inside, which doesn't come up too often any more, is that some footbox mounted PS boosters would interfere with the bearing on the outside. Again the solution was to go inside. If yours works OK on the outside, which is also how the FF instructions show, then great.

[cv2065]

Finally, getting back to the brakes. I had some challenges getting the rear brakes bled initially. FFR sent me another MC, but once it was all completed, I don't think that was the issue. Again, AWESOME customer service. I did end up purchasing two new rear calipers, as the bleeding valves seemed to have excessive play and were leaking. I just got them on my own since FFR sent me the new MC. If anyone is looking for replacement rear calipers for the complete kit, they are from a 1987 or 1988 Thunderbird Sport Coupe. I now have a rock hard pedal for brakes and no leaks (Knock on wood). A couple of things I learned:

1. Per Edwardb's suggestion, pressure bleeding seems to be the best method over gravity and the 'push and hold' method. Because the front and rear MCs are in tandom, pressure bleeding allows you to do one corner at a time versus side to side.
2. When pressure bleeding, it may take multiple times for each corner. I would do one corner, then the next..seal it up, pump the brakes a few times, then repeat. I was surprised at how much air comes out even after two attempts.
3. I used the CNC pressure cap and small portable bike pump. I originally used a large bicycle pump and blew the tops off my MC reservoirs. Just too hard to control the pressure. The smaller one I got at Walmart (Schwinn Air Sport Pro) and you can operate with one hand with manageable pressure. It also allows you to twist the top on and off the reservoir without moving the pump. I would still keep one or two fingers on the MC top if you don't have it secured.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/8b0c12f3-cc89-47c8-aa08-82e445b0046f-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/8b0c12f3-cc89-47c8-aa08-82e445b0046f)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/664ddda5-7f4f-4951-b328-34260809f957-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/664ddda5-7f4f-4951-b328-34260809f957)

[cv2065]

Just to confirm, you have both sides of the pressed steel flanges flanges of the steering column bearing assembly on the outside of the footbox? It's not 100% clear from your picture. Just wanted to confirm you're not describing having one half inside and one half outside. That wouldn't capture the bearing properly.

Yes sir..that is correct. Both sides of the steel flanges are on the outside of the box. Thanks for checking on me Paul!

[BadAsp427]

Glad you got your brake issues fixed. I've got the same problem with the rusting bolts on the pedal box. I'm going to be changing out mine as well. Ace Hardware, here I come!!!

[Fixit]

Lookin' good!
Glad you got your brake issues resolved!

[cv2065]

First off, Merry Christmas to everyone! Hard to believe that Christmas goes by so fast these days. But, you can't beat opening presents and then the kids can enjoy them in 70 degree weather! ;)

So, in update to my thread, I left off last time having a win on my overall bleeding of brakes, but had a challenge with my emergency brake, as the 'hammer' on the brake would not return completely to its resting place causing drag. Thanks to the great advice on this forum, specifically Dave (a.k.a. phileas_fogg), I installed a piano spring on the e-brake cable and it worked fantastic. I have the IRS rear brake calipers and used the 1.5" piano spring.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/e4f3a822-8eab-4b84-84dd-42f25262d6d3-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/e4f3a822-8eab-4b84-84dd-42f25262d6d3)

You can find them readily available here:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KUYOQG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Once brakes were completely squared away, I mounted the tires and am very pleased with how everything is coming along. Now the neighbors are starting to take notice when the garage door is open...

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/01dcbe84-7b18-4d5e-a311-2bec860e56a7-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/01dcbe84-7b18-4d5e-a311-2bec860e56a7)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/1b50f38c-abaa-460e-9e10-c0f22df5cb6b-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/1b50f38c-abaa-460e-9e10-c0f22df5cb6b)

[cv2065]

Next up I wanted to finish up my floor driver and passenger side sound/heat insulation. I used 3 different layers to do this. First layer was 100% silicone caulking in the corners and other smaller areas. I had purchased some seam sealer that I have used before, but once I got into it, I didn't see the need for such small areas that I needed to seal up, as I used the silicone when assembling the panels and they were pretty sealed up. From there I used a waterproof aluminum foil repair tape from U.Seal for some of the larger areas like where the footbox meets the 4" tube. This stuff is a little expensive ($17 a roll), but worked great and is easily moldable to the corners. You can get it here:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/USEAL-USA-Band-6-in-Aluminum-Foil-Self-Adhesive-Repair-Tape-8872AF6/202086180

Finally, I used the Thermo Tec on the top with the high temp stuff on the outer walls of the foot boxes. All in all, I should be sealed up and tight as drum from moisture and heat.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/3107a634-9190-431a-9929-d52b2e3a21cf-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/3107a634-9190-431a-9929-d52b2e3a21cf)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/1e61d393-9a8d-42b2-bf73-5254726f63e3-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/1e61d393-9a8d-42b2-bf73-5254726f63e3)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/915dcc4d-16a0-49d3-bc5a-589e7ed1e35c-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/915dcc4d-16a0-49d3-bc5a-589e7ed1e35c)

I then wanted to start on my floor pans. It's a little awkward as the pieces are so large, and you can't forget to do the side pieces at the same time, as they all conjoin together. After I installed the passenger side pan, I looked in my rivet box and realized that I was at the bottom with no spare boxes. So off to Summit to order a couple of more. I needed the break as my back was on fire!

I did have to trim a little off where the floor pan meets the weld at the upper left part of the console area. I must have missed this on first fitment but fits nice and flush now. I'll have to do the same with the other side. I'd rather trim the panel than grind the weld.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/48b36a95-4847-4687-ae24-f749311a9ab2-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/48b36a95-4847-4687-ae24-f749311a9ab2)

[cv2065]

My Blueprint 427 engine and trans finally arrived and look outstanding! I received my TKO600 from Mike Forte. Great communication and speedy shipping time. Mike shaved off the unnecessary metal for installation. The trans was caught in-between gears when I got it, but was able to run through the gears easily and the shaft turned like butter.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/1fe1ad45-518d-4b96-821d-791661bf97da-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/1fe1ad45-518d-4b96-821d-791661bf97da)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/7c5e28e9-a54b-46b2-9b14-cea1b60216ca-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/7c5e28e9-a54b-46b2-9b14-cea1b60216ca)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/a143f87c-2232-4395-8fc9-df99dba7c99b-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/a143f87c-2232-4395-8fc9-df99dba7c99b)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/8aed4f08-404e-4244-b9a7-02d14009eaab-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/8aed4f08-404e-4244-b9a7-02d14009eaab)

When pulling the Blueprint 427 out, I had forgotten that it has a DART block, which can run some interference with the way the block is made for traditional 351W stands or as pointed out to me by Paul and Jeff, the engine mounts as well. I didn't realize this until I had it in the air installing the stands, and had to put back in the crate until a fix was created.

NAZ had suggested some spacers, so I made them out of 1" welding stock in 8" pieces. Drilled the pieces to match the stand and it pushed the stands out enough where they missed the block interference. I did have to pull the water drain plug and notch out the spacer for the drain boss on one side, then everything bolted up nicely. 1.5" bolts were needed to soak up the additional space.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/81304707-86cc-4b3a-8790-d103c57683b9-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/81304707-86cc-4b3a-8790-d103c57683b9)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/c275d5f8-31cf-494b-82bd-333c4d8cc6fd-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/c275d5f8-31cf-494b-82bd-333c4d8cc6fd)

Now just have to deal with the engine mounts. The most important thing, is its out of the crate and ready to be mated to the trans.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/589f486b-cc7f-4f66-a517-0fb29248f7d9-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/589f486b-cc7f-4f66-a517-0fb29248f7d9)

[Papa]

Beautiful! Here's a tip for you … don't forget to remove the exhaust port cover (stickers) before you follow BluePrint's oil priming directions. If you forget, the resulting POP POP POP will scare the poo out you!

[cv2065]

I have the Mike Everson under dash panel. I had reviewed Gumball's thread a few years back as he notched it out for a few things, which I did the same then trimmed the sharp areas with wind lace. Came out very nicely. I will also install the USB port as well as the dimmer switch and windshield wiper toggle in this panel. I'm contemplating whether or not to use the supplied two support brackets from FFR in addition to the under dash panel for additional support. I'm sure it will be rock solid either way...

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/3e2a2b7b-6d57-4d5a-aa9a-608fcfb31414-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/3e2a2b7b-6d57-4d5a-aa9a-608fcfb31414)

[cv2065]

Beautiful! Here's a tip for you … don't forget to remove the exhaust port cover (stickers) before you follow BluePrint's oil priming directions. If you forget, the resulting POP POP POP will scare the poo out you!

LOL..Will do!! Thanks Dave!

[BadAsp427]

Looking great.... Can't wait to hear that beast start.... Nice job on the floors...

[Vspeeds]

I just ran across your build thread based off your signature. Your project is really coming along well. Good job. Looks like youll start it up soon.

[cv2065]

Been a little slow lately due to work, but I'm determined to get the engine possibly in this weekend. So far I've been buttoning up the cockpit area. In looking for air leaks, found a few large ones that I wanted to plug up with a few metal strips vs. silicone. Some of the larger gaps are on the floor board eyelet areas as well as at the top enter console where it meets the 2" tubing and in the rear outside corners of the floorboards. Took a little time to cut the pieces just right, but they look good and I don't want any heat making its way into the cabin.

Couple of before and afters:
https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/0e50cf0d-76ce-409a-a6fe-56903ef359cf-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/0e50cf0d-76ce-409a-a6fe-56903ef359cf)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/2fb01748-e564-4326-9057-a493b76034b9-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/2fb01748-e564-4326-9057-a493b76034b9)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/189f36c0-28ec-4711-b3a0-70f31fac22f6-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/189f36c0-28ec-4711-b3a0-70f31fac22f6)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/ef2c7532-7387-4d42-b8b5-599143c09fc3-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/ef2c7532-7387-4d42-b8b5-599143c09fc3)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/42d8f605-be2e-4e4f-8586-8fb96485bcfe-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/42d8f605-be2e-4e4f-8586-8fb96485bcfe)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/584a48f8-0265-4770-b648-7ca0580018dd-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/584a48f8-0265-4770-b648-7ca0580018dd)

[cv2065]

All floor boards are in with some of the console pieces with insulation. I also have temporarily mounted my dashboard as well. I will wait until the body is fit to get the dashboard secured properly. Wiring is done except for the turn signal module (3 wires) and the main harness plugs. As soon as I get the engine in, I'll finish those up and run the sensor wiring.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/403e721a-fa9f-4906-874f-75aa659ee9b9-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/403e721a-fa9f-4906-874f-75aa659ee9b9)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/6b8fef45-daf0-4aab-a9cc-b3c85ae4eb85-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/6b8fef45-daf0-4aab-a9cc-b3c85ae4eb85)

Holes were cut for my Polk Audio front speakers. I know this is a debatable topic, but I've never had a car without a decent sound system, and wasn't going to start now. I'm going with 5" Polk Audios in the front (DB501's), 2-6.5" in the rear cockpit (Polk Audio MM1's), Kenwood 5-Channel Marine Amp (KAC-M8005), Rockville BT Receiver for the glove box and a compact 12" sub for the rear.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/ea033ffe-db61-403a-aaa0-86b962862f0f-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/ea033ffe-db61-403a-aaa0-86b962862f0f)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/f4969087-1bad-40fe-9f71-28ec09e5f922-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/f4969087-1bad-40fe-9f71-28ec09e5f922)

[cv2065]

As I cut the larger steering shaft hole for my RT Turn Signal mod, the steering shaft trim piece that I bought for it was just slightly too small in circumference, where I could see some light coming through at the bottom. Had a good friend of mine duplicate the piece only larger and a little more robust. This guy taught me to weld and can duplicate just about anything. Props to my friend Steve!!

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/727bc4ee-254e-4c99-81cc-e67f40c90da8-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/727bc4ee-254e-4c99-81cc-e67f40c90da8)

[cv2065]

Car is officially on the ground now (YAY!)...well, on my race ramps that is. If you haven't seen these race ramps, they are fantastic. I've been using them for about 3 years now. They are not cheap, but worth their weight in gold. They come in variety of stackable heights. If I have the first layer down, which is what you see in the pics, I get about 6" off the ground. If I add the next stackable layer, seen on top of my cabinet, I get another 10", or a total of 16" off the ground. Plenty of room to slide under on a creeper when adding tire height. Best of all is that they are made of a hard foam material, where its easy to store just about anywhere as they are extremely light. I find them mentally safer than jack stands if you aren't working on the suspension.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/53bc8561-c97d-4663-890b-d55d2a593c71-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/53bc8561-c97d-4663-890b-d55d2a593c71)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/1fa351f0-814a-43c0-a9de-64eb9e967d58-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/1fa351f0-814a-43c0-a9de-64eb9e967d58)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/d6f359a5-7cbc-4947-b64c-bfb3e9175385-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/d6f359a5-7cbc-4947-b64c-bfb3e9175385)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/6c364e5c-6921-4cae-8568-95c8c22081dd-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/6c364e5c-6921-4cae-8568-95c8c22081dd)

[cv2065]

As she's on the ground now, decided to torque my rear IRS axle nuts. I had been putting this off until I could get some weight for the torque. I was able to easily achieve the 98 ft-lbs, but the 45 degree turn was a little more difficult. With a 25" breaker bar, I could only get to about 38-40 degrees. I'm going to drive it and see if anything settles. I'll try again for those last 5 degrees, but if nothing moves after driving, I'll leave as is and call it good. I will mark the position to ensure I can see if it moves.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/632d9ef3-4a51-4e58-9dc2-b20fc657d9da-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/632d9ef3-4a51-4e58-9dc2-b20fc657d9da)

[cv2065]

Had a great conversation with Mr. Jeff Kleiner this week and am in line for his expert paint services. Nice talking with you Jeff. Look forward to working with you!

[Higgybulin]

DuDe!! Your wheels and tires are smoking (are those tirestickers) !!! I just caught up on your thread, nice progress. Keep up the good work!! If ya don't mind me asking, what did it cost to get the wheels powder coated?

[cv2065]

DuDe!! Your wheels and tires are smoking (are those tirestickers) !!! I just caught up on your thread, nice progress. Keep up the good work!! If ya don't mind me asking, what did it cost to get the wheels powder coated?

Thanks Higgy. Yes, those are 1.5” tire stickers. Powder coating was $300 for all 4 wheels. I have a guy locally that is really reasonable and does a fantastic job.

[Boydster]

Nice progress. Good to see you coming along.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Had a great conversation with Mr. Jeff Kleiner this week and am in line for his expert paint services. Nice talking with you Jeff. Look forward to working with you!

Nice to talk with you also Chad! Hey, you realize that your artificial Goodyears are on the wrong sides in the back, right?

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/53bc8561-c97d-4663-890b-d55d2a593c71-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

:)

Jeff

[cv2065]

Nice to talk with you also Chad! Hey, you realize that your artificial Goodyears are on the wrong sides in the back, right?

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/53bc8561-c97d-4663-890b-d55d2a593c71-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

:)

Jeff

LOL...Good eye Jeff!! I had the fronts on the wrong side as well. Sigurd pointed that out when he was over. I'll get them swapped. I think I may have to get my readers adjusted again...:)

[BadAsp427]

Either way, it's looking great....

[cv2065]

So after a few delays, finally getting my 427 situated for installation. I didn't pay to have my engine and trans mated, so that's where I'm starting.

First off, pilot bearing goes in. Nothing eventful here, just used a socket that matched the outside of the bearing and tapped it in. No freezer treatment or grease, just took my time and tapped it in. Very tight fit I will say. Compared to a Chevy bronze bushing which I've done in the past, I like these Ford roller bearings better when installing, as it has a lip around the edge of the bearing you use to tap it in and much harder to mushroom. I used the Ford M-7600-A pilot bearing.

I then sprayed my starter index plate. That thing is steel and will rust if you look at it wrong. Had some Rustoleum oil based black semi gloss in the cabinet, and made it look like a million bucks.

Next, Flywheel goes on. Unfortunately, the first and second flywheels that I received were both from Speedmaster, and not high caliber products. I'd have to caution anyone buying this brand, as for a new flywheel sealed in the box, these left a lot to be desired as they were severely scratched, and in some cases, gouged. The alignment dowels were missing from the first box, and very basic with the second, so no good there either. I ordered a Ford Racing flywheel and it came perfect with quality alignment dowels. Tapped in the 3 dowels and then Installed with ARP flywheel bolts per their directions...Ready to roll. ARP recommends a little ARP Ultra torque assembly lube under the head of the bolt, Loctite 242 on the threads and torqued to 75 ft-lbs. I think many can forget, including myself, that the area under the head, not just the threads, can affect torque values as well.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/88881e5d-63cc-4551-93a7-32cbd2e2f8de-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/88881e5d-63cc-4551-93a7-32cbd2e2f8de)

Once flywheel was on, I measured the bellhousing cocentricity. This has to be done before the clutch pressure plate is installed. My 13 year old son actually came out of his room to help me read the indicator while I was turning the crank. Nice!! I bought a dial indicator and base from Harbor Freight. I had to go through a couple of dial boxes to be sure that I got one that wasn't returned or jacked up. If I did this more often, I'd get one of higher caliber, but this did just fine. Bellhousing was good to go with readings of +4 at 90 degrees, +4 at 180 degrees, 0 at 270 degrees and 0 at 360 degrees (where I started). Measured twice for reading accuracy and the bell is very 'concentric'. ;)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/2c02db2b-3387-4a42-901b-3fa530d41460-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/2c02db2b-3387-4a42-901b-3fa530d41460)

Clutch disc went on next. My clutch kit is the RAM 98794T. As I installed the clutch disc, it did not have any designation which side faced which, so asked Mike Forte and was good to go. As I learned, the flat side of the disc, 99% of the time, goes towards the engine, and the protruding side goes towards the trans. Used the alignment tool and on it went.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/cf0884dc-08d0-41a4-a6a2-3152b8b76a42-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/cf0884dc-08d0-41a4-a6a2-3152b8b76a42)

Pressure Plate now goes on and aligned with the flywheel dowels and secured without a hitch. I will say that the first time I tightened down, I was tightening in a star pattern, but might have had a little more turns on one side versus the other, as the fingers of the pressure plate were a little uneven. This can cause vibration, so loosened them up again and made sure that I had the same amount of turns on every bolt as I tightened them up. Fingers were perfect and ready to roll. I used Loctite 242 (blue) on all of my threads with lock washers and M8-1.25 (10.9) bolts at 25 ft-lbs. Maybe a little overkill, but my pressure plate won't be flying off anytime soon.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/89337de5-ac92-48a1-9724-ae793f7b6c09-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/89337de5-ac92-48a1-9724-ae793f7b6c09)

[cv2065]

Bellhousing prep was next. If you look at these Bells from Ford, I have the M-6392-R58 for a Tremec trans, they have a pretty rough casting. So much to the point, where you could cut your finger if not careful. I compared to another Ford unit and it was exactly the same. Forte also confirmed that this is uniform with all of their Bells, so just smoothed out the casting a little bit and moved on. installed the clutch fork pivot pin that came with the bellhousing with a little loctite. Hard to get any kind of torque wrench on it, so used the German "Goodentite" method.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/09d8f435-19db-409d-8790-1fb50db33987-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/09d8f435-19db-409d-8790-1fb50db33987)

Prepared the clutch fork (E6ZR-7515-AA) with a little grease. Ford gets a little carried away here with the moly grease. I wiped it and went back in with my grease of choice, which is the Lucas X-Tra Heavy Duty (green). The grease Ford uses on their pilot and TOB are also green. Wonder if its the same? Anyway, important not to mix greases so started fresh all the way around. One thing to note is that the Ford clutch fork I've listed is the 'engineering' number. So if you order one and the outside of the box says E6ZZ...it's the same fork.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/38c6799b-590b-4342-b808-f483a2553cdb-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/38c6799b-590b-4342-b808-f483a2553cdb)

I didn't use the TOB that came with the RAM clutch as many have suggested on the forum. So I went with the Ford Racing M-7548-A. Definitely a quality difference here. I took a picture of both so one could compare. The Ford bearing is on the bottom and RAM bearing on the top. There is a distinct difference where the clutch fork installs on the bearing, as the Ford surface area here is much larger than the RAM. Both pieces seemed to be similar in weight and construction.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/0672e9bc-7c45-4ab4-bef4-ec220ed3d8c0-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/0672e9bc-7c45-4ab4-bef4-ec220ed3d8c0)

I made sure that the clutch fork prongs secured underneath the lip of the TOB, and not on top. I've read that's a common mistake and will cause one to have to disassemble...Not fun. Here's the clutch fork and TOB installed in the bellhousing. A thin coating of Lucas green inside the TOB, as well as a thin coat on the outside lip of the TOB where it will contact the clutch fingers and some on the clutch fork pivot ball. You can see red grease here on the pivot ball area which is Lucas Red Tacky. There's a grease for everything!

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/f3053f5e-12ad-40b3-8e1e-822bb8ac28cf-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/f3053f5e-12ad-40b3-8e1e-822bb8ac28cf)

I sprayed the bellhousing with some Silver epoxy that I had and looks great. Installed the bell with lockwashers at 45 ft-lbs for the larger bolts and 25 ft-lbs for the 2 smaller 5/16". All grade 8 of course.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/0610a563-4716-4d50-b30c-9c0f2d238236-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/0610a563-4716-4d50-b30c-9c0f2d238236)


Next up is the starter and trans.

[BadAsp427]

Looking Great Chad.... Very nice write up....

[edwardb]

Little heavy on the grease there IMO. Especially on the inside of the TOB that goes on the input shaft. I put a little there but you can barely see it. Don't see how much you put on the face of the TOB. That too should be so light you can barely see it. You really don't want that stuff flinging around in there. See that you locked down the adjustable pivot. Where did your clutch arm end up with the TOB resting against the clutch pressure plate fingers? It should be roughly perpendicular to the output shaft. Typically slightly toward the back of the opening in the bell housing. It's pretty normal to have to take the bell housing off and on a couple times to get the pivot in the right spot.

[cv2065]

Little heavy on the grease there IMO. Especially on the inside of the TOB that goes on the input shaft. I put a little there but you can barely see it. Don't see how much you put on the face of the TOB. That too should be so light you can barely see it. You really don't want that stuff flinging around in there. See that you locked down the adjustable pivot. Where did your clutch arm end up with the TOB resting against the clutch pressure plate fingers? It should be roughly perpendicular to the output shaft. Typically slightly toward the back of the opening in the bell housing. It's pretty normal to have to take the bell housing off and on a couple times to get the pivot in the right spot.

Thanks for the feedback Paul. The grease is pretty thin on both accounts, but I can revisit easily enough. Regarding pivot ball, the one that came with the bell is fixed and not adjustable. I haven’t hooked up the hydraulic unit yet, so not sure exactly how it will all sit but doesn’t look like the stock pivot ball gives options.

[edwardb]

Thanks for the feedback Paul. The grease is pretty thin on both accounts, but I can revisit easily enough. Regarding pivot ball, the one that came with the bell is fixed and not adjustable. I haven’t hooked up the hydraulic unit yet, so not sure exactly how it will all sit but doesn’t look like the stock pivot ball gives options.

Oops. Forgot the stock bell pivot is fixed. You should be OK, but cable or hydraulic doesn't matter. The clutch arm has to be in the proper location to have the right leverage and available movement.

[cv2065]

Oops. Forgot the stock bell pivot is fixed. You should be OK, but cable or hydraulic doesn't matter. The clutch arm has to be in the proper location to have the right leverage and available movement.

All good Paul. Thanks for reminding me to check that. Looks perfectly perpendicular to where the input shaft will go when the TOB is just touching the clutch fingers, with the end of the arm slightly towards the back of the bellhousing. Not sure if this picture shows it too well, but I think we are good to go!

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/666a3183-be25-48be-8e35-4c42c37032a3-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/666a3183-be25-48be-8e35-4c42c37032a3)

[cv2065]

Got my 13 year old to help me out today and we were able to put in the Tremec TKO600. Can't say that it was the easiest thing..Might even compare with the IRS install. I had some all thread in two of the bolt holes to align the transmission coming into the bellhousing, and it would always want to stop right at the base of the input shaft. Plastic alignment tool went in fine, so it had to be us not getting it level or something wasn't aligning. Decided to pull the bellhousing and install it on the transmission first, then install to the block. Less holes for the input shaft to jockey through. Took all of about 5 minutes to do it that way. Only hitch was the bellhousing dowels wanted to hold up the train a bit but worked through that. Because of the aluminum bell, I stayed on the conservative side for torque values, running at 50 ft-lbs for both the bellhousing to engine and transmission to bellhousing.

Clutch fork with TOB slides back and forth nicely and everything seems to be good to go. What's the best way of 'testing' a transmission install to make sure everything is seated while the engine/trans is still out of the car? Thought of just pulling the spark plugs and rotating at the crank to see how it all feels.

Nice to have it in. Just need to add the starter and the hydraulic clutch and we are ready to install the drive train!

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/9c5fdfe2-4fb6-4915-9bcd-427894b19a22-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/9c5fdfe2-4fb6-4915-9bcd-427894b19a22)

I did want to add something that I had found that was initially a little alarming but quickly resolved. The TKO housings might have casting flash on them, and if in the right spot, might look like a crack. I had one that was right on the upper left mounting ear that looked like a crack in the case:

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/48bbe496-2936-4852-bed8-3ddf6fb39041-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/48bbe496-2936-4852-bed8-3ddf6fb39041)

Took 30 seconds out and hit it with a small file, smoothed it out and all is good. It wasn't a crack, just the casting flash. Now it looks like this:

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/bea9eda7-ab85-4748-99d8-8468a0fbab50-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/bea9eda7-ab85-4748-99d8-8468a0fbab50)

Just thought I'd make mention in case anyone sees it and has a cow.

[edwardb]

What's the best way of 'testing' a transmission install to make sure everything is seated while the engine/trans is still out of the car? Thought of just pulling the spark plugs and rotating at the crank to see how it all feels.

You could. But honestly with it together like that, and given that all the pieces you're using are pretty standard and well proven, very unlikely anything is wrong. With it in gear and the plugs pulled, should turn over easy enough and the trans output shaft turn. Beyond that, the only other unknown is that your starter aligns properly. But with a standard bell, flywheel, etc. should be fine if it bolts in correctly. On both Forte hydraulic clutch setups I've done I plumbed them up and tested before installing the engine. This after a buddy of mine had his in/out several times getting everything just right. But it's kind of a pain, and potentially messy. Assume you know the pushrod Forte supplies has to be cut to the proper length. With that, the other wildcard is the master cylinder. Some have had issues with overdriving the slave. Even to the point of popping it out. Not good. Addressed by either adding a clutch stop or a smaller master cylinder.

[cv2065]

You could. But honestly with it together like that, and given that all the pieces you're using are pretty standard and well proven, very unlikely anything is wrong. With it in gear and the plugs pulled, should turn over easy enough and the trans output shaft turn. Beyond that, the only other unknown is that your starter aligns properly. But with a standard bell, flywheel, etc. should be fine if it bolts in correctly. On both Forte hydraulic clutch setups I've done I plumbed them up and tested before installing the engine. This after a buddy of mine had his in/out several times getting everything just right. But it's kind of a pain, and potentially messy. Assume you know the pushrod Forte supplies has to be cut to the proper length. With that, the other wildcard is the master cylinder. Some have had issues with overdriving the slave. Even to the point of popping it out. Not good. Addressed by either adding a clutch stop or a smaller master cylinder.

Thanks Paul. I've read your build thread on changing out the MC on the Forte clutch. Might be good insurance to do ahead of time.

[Jeff Kleiner]

No need to attempt to turn the engine over. Put the trans in gear and try to turn the output shaft...it doesnt, right? Leave it in gear, move the throwout lever as if the clutch pedal was being depressed...now the output shaft can be turned, right? If yes on both counts stab the whole works in the chassis!

Jeff

[edwardb]

Thanks Paul. I've read your build thread on changing out the MC on the Forte clutch. Might be good insurance to do ahead of time.

Another size MC might be a better fit, as I found. But there are variables. I'd start with the one you have and see how it works. Easy enough to change at this stage if that's the best alternative.

[cv2065]

No need to attempt to turn the engine over. Put the trans in gear and try to turn the output shaft...it doesnt, right? Leave it in gear, move the throwout lever as if the clutch pedal was being depressed...now the output shaft can be turned, right? If yes on both counts stab the whole works in the chassis!

Jeff

Looks like everything moves as it should Jeff. Thanks for the tips!

[cv2065]

Well, things have been a little trying lately, as I'm getting defective or wrong parts that I have to wait on. First off, I pulled the 'donut' out of the TKO600. Pretty easy to do, but you have to be careful not to grab on to the actual seal. I took some channel locks, locked on to the donut and it came right out. Needle nose pliers weren't cutting it. Looks something like this:

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/68fe881d-2e0f-4c55-9059-9970c5a017ec-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/68fe881d-2e0f-4c55-9059-9970c5a017ec)

Once out, I inspected the seal, and you guessed it, was defective. The lip was rolled on one side and thanks to the forum advice, I swapped it out. The replacement for the TKO600 is Tremec #TCSJ1277. Funny thing was when I contacted Tremec, they were recommending a National part, and not a Tremec part. I read off the number from the old seal and they said "Oh yeah"...and sent me one almost next day, so good customer service on Tremec's part.

Very easy to swap out. I grabbed on the seal with a seal puller and popped out immediately. Pressed the new one back in flush with the housing by hand and then tapped it the rest of the way in with an electrical pipe fitting that I found at Home Depot and put a plastic 2" cap on the top. No sealer on the sides of the seal. As you can see in the pictures, the seal rests on a backstop inside the housing, so no guessing how far to drive in. When it stops, you're good.

Bad Seal
https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/f9e26af1-36c4-4cb5-8568-61e71b456e5e-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/f9e26af1-36c4-4cb5-8568-61e71b456e5e)

No Seal
https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/8f30890d-5693-4d2f-929e-3b6db1ad3f60-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/8f30890d-5693-4d2f-929e-3b6db1ad3f60)

New Seal
https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/5119fe05-074d-4ae7-9ce0-29e6b5f4d649-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/5119fe05-074d-4ae7-9ce0-29e6b5f4d649)

Seal Tapper (Home Depot #12320 - Halex 2" Electrical Tube)
https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/1165483f-cd94-45c2-9581-165e819a24d6-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/1165483f-cd94-45c2-9581-165e819a24d6)

[cv2065]

Afterwards I installed my Powermaster Starter. Measured the distance between backplate and ring gear. Needed 3/4" according to Powermaster, and came up about 1/16" short, so used the shim in the starter and it was perfect. I used 3/8" Grade 8 bolts at 1.25" torqued to 35 ft-lbs.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/7fa3b7ce-f455-4072-a5ee-8447f717d30b-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/7fa3b7ce-f455-4072-a5ee-8447f717d30b)

Went on to install my Forte Hydraulic clutch and noticed that I had been sent the wrong bracket as its not aligning with the clutch fork. As Paul pointed out, there is one for the stock Ford bellhousing and one for the Quicktime housing. I wasn't aware that there was a difference, but now I know. Sent a note to Forte and I'm sure he'll take care of it. He's been great with questions thus far.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/64ee74fa-945f-4d54-92d6-01467e842a36-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/64ee74fa-945f-4d54-92d6-01467e842a36)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/c848680c-aa5f-4af4-8ad3-74a0eab446da-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/c848680c-aa5f-4af4-8ad3-74a0eab446da)

I want to have this buttoned up before installing the engine, so I guess I'll be working on some wiring tomorrow and Monday. Might even drop the body on and see how my dash is lining up so I can get that secured.

[cv2065]

So, Mike Forte sent me a replacement bracket in record time. Thanks Mike! I'll get this other bracket sent back to you asap. Beautiful piece of aluminum billet and with the help of the forum, got this thing dialed in perfectly. I cut roughly 1-1/8" off of the slave cylinder push rod and have about 1/8" play from the TOB against the clutch fingers to bottoming out the slave. Bolts are tightened down to 30 ft/lbs.

I would have liked to have put another bolt into the fork bracket, but just not enough room. I'm sure it will hold just fine as designed. I will probably be proactive and just go ahead and add the 1" MC as so many have done.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/20ce79ee-74a6-453b-a1a9-e3605879848d-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/20ce79ee-74a6-453b-a1a9-e3605879848d)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/d2a3f452-c1b1-4b4b-843e-eed75f7d0991-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/d2a3f452-c1b1-4b4b-843e-eed75f7d0991)

[cv2065]

The Blueprint 427 is finally installed! WooHoo!! Man is she a beauty!

I've been right on the verge for the past couple of weeks, but kept running into a couple of things that slowed me down. Major one was the engine mounts. As is known, the stock mustang mounts don't get along with the DART block. I started to grind the driver's side mount down and was taking off quite a bit of metal off the mount. I might have taken too much in one area but not enough in another. A little hard to judge taking it on and off. Anyhow, I thought that if I was weakening the front side support, that needed to balanced out in some other way, and I certainly wasn't going to grind on the block.

So enter Mr. Forte. I thought he would have the remedy. Pretty simple really, but he did a great job notching out the mount and then welding in additional support on the other side of the bolt hole. Nice and strong and to handle that torque! Here's a few comparison pics:

Mounts after surgery:
https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/4db82e21-0537-470c-9582-cee1d4242516-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/4db82e21-0537-470c-9582-cee1d4242516)

Closeup of welded angle:
https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/c71803fc-91f7-4839-98ed-c2cc67c5fcf2-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/c71803fc-91f7-4839-98ed-c2cc67c5fcf2)

Comparison (Original mount of left, modified mount on right)
https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/63f9d9ff-33ff-46ef-ad3e-f3af1cb3359a-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/63f9d9ff-33ff-46ef-ad3e-f3af1cb3359a)

Painted and installed:
https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/1dd368a1-101a-4a92-af5c-41754a167188-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/1dd368a1-101a-4a92-af5c-41754a167188)

[cv2065]

Now on to the good stuff. Uneventful in terms of getting the engine on the hoist. As everyone knows, the load leveler is mandatory and can't stress enough to grease that thing up unless you want to have some kind of shoulder injury on the deep angles. The Blueprint engines already have the lifting brackets installed, so no need to bolt through anything but the bracket which makes things easy. I did upgrade to 7/16" bolts, which meant I had to drill out the mounts a little as they were 3/8.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/c1337ade-08e1-4796-a89c-15824599367c-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/c1337ade-08e1-4796-a89c-15824599367c)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/c3c0191c-9e4a-4f49-ad31-335616a5b5bc-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/c3c0191c-9e4a-4f49-ad31-335616a5b5bc)

My 13 year old son walked out into the garage at this point...Perfect Timing!! Thanks for the involuntary service my son!

"Uh...You want me to help with what?"
https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/d388d5d9-62dd-4240-9f5d-a1f0f39feaf1-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/d388d5d9-62dd-4240-9f5d-a1f0f39feaf1)

[cv2065]

So, on to the installation. Happy to say that nothing got nicked, banged or scratched. It was seamless in that regard. I had the towels there but really didn't need them. Took it nice and slow and my assistant did a great job.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/500461a9-f28d-4656-965d-678ec2a3bbab-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/500461a9-f28d-4656-965d-678ec2a3bbab)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/b90f1752-cb76-4b96-a724-595da9fece53-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/b90f1752-cb76-4b96-a724-595da9fece53)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/70a9cd3d-9be6-442c-8505-77edb98f4fd7-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/70a9cd3d-9be6-442c-8505-77edb98f4fd7)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/47608c3e-26be-49c5-9a55-476c09c47a66-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/47608c3e-26be-49c5-9a55-476c09c47a66)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/90efab7f-5a17-4226-9e3a-fd3548b5ae06-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/90efab7f-5a17-4226-9e3a-fd3548b5ae06)

[cv2065]

Now it wasn't all roses. I did have a little trouble getting the notches on both sides to seat. Probably sat the engine up and down off the mounts a half a dozen times, making little adjustments here and there. The focus was with the leveler. It really needed to be perfectly centered in the bay in order for it to seat 99% of the way. The passenger side always had no problem going in, but the driver's side kept hanging about 1/16" off. So, called my Bud Carl (Badasp), and gave me the idea to loosen the motor mount on that side. I did that, then took a 2x4 and tapped the mount into the place, then tightened the mounts back up (45 ft-lbs). Problem solved! Bolts from mount to frame tightened to 50 ft-lbs.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/9263b57e-3e71-4c81-9ff0-d759271a48f5-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/9263b57e-3e71-4c81-9ff0-d759271a48f5)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/4a5c2252-87ab-4983-87dc-3b637528a75f-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/4a5c2252-87ab-4983-87dc-3b637528a75f)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/d9dfca0d-a113-4f7c-92ca-79dbf92eb7e8-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/d9dfca0d-a113-4f7c-92ca-79dbf92eb7e8)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/6309db85-e1e7-4635-b146-2a86c2b8983e-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/6309db85-e1e7-4635-b146-2a86c2b8983e)

[cv2065]

I kept the transmission supported with my floor jack until ready to install the A-frame. Installed it on the top of the mounts and everything bolted up very easily. Dropped the transmission then installed the 2 trans mount bolts. Had to shift the trans over to the driver's side about 1/8" to get one of the bolts to align but pretty easy overall.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/bfad3267-1fd9-437d-9e30-649de96ea60b-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/bfad3267-1fd9-437d-9e30-649de96ea60b)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/a03413c3-e3ca-491d-81c8-29df955dc897-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/a03413c3-e3ca-491d-81c8-29df955dc897)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/1b8b9389-032e-446f-bd9c-b13cc13a81aa-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/1b8b9389-032e-446f-bd9c-b13cc13a81aa)

Only other issues I had was that I had to disconnect my fuel line from my regulator that is on the firewall, as the valve cover was not going to clear the braided line. I may have to get a 90 degree connector there. I also had to pull my starter as the position that I had it in was not going to clear the 4" beam. I just rotated it a bit and reinstalled.

Next up is a first start hopefully in the next two weeks. Here's the BP Dyno:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/14c63b9b-7e0f-4dbe-bdf5-9103c0566180-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/14c63b9b-7e0f-4dbe-bdf5-9103c0566180)

[Papa]

Congratulations on the big milestone! It starts getting a lot more real once the engine is installed.

Dave

[PeteMeindl]

That's great, CV! Congratulations!

[Sigurd]

Looks good! Ready to go-cart at Easter?

[cv2065]

Looks good! Ready to go-cart at Easter?

Thanks guys! I would definitely like to be go carting by Easter. You going to be back?

[BadAsp427]

Awesome Job... That is a purrrrty motor.... Like Papa said, now it really starts getting/feeling real...

[Straversi]

Looks great. Congrats. Your son will have a fun Monday telling everyone in school how he dropped the motor in the Cobra over the weekend!
-Steve.

[BluePrintEngines]

Coming along nicely! engine looks great in there!!!!

[cv2065]

Haven't updated in a while, but making steady progress.

Started on the sensors and engine wiring. With sensor installation, everything was straight forward except the oil pressure gauge. As has been mentioned, I needed to space the module out away from the side of the oil filter, so used the LMR oil pressure gauge extender, model #LRS-9278A. Paul had pointed this piece out in his build thread. It's a bit on the expensive side for what it is, but works and looks great.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/c04cc546-a97f-4d7f-9c9b-c775690319c7-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/c04cc546-a97f-4d7f-9c9b-c775690319c7)

I had a goal of making as clean of an engine compartment as I could while running as few wire looms as possible. I've run the alternator, water temp, oil pressure, fan, coil and electric choke.

Most of the wiring was run in two looms, one on each side of the engine bay. Water temp, oil pressure and coil wiring came underneath the engine mounts, under the oil filter and up behind the power steering module. Alternator wiring ran underneath the engine mounts and up behind the alternator. All looks very clean and out of sight.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/d622b283-76c2-432c-bda0-0d97dd64a792-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/d622b283-76c2-432c-bda0-0d97dd64a792)

Electric choke and fan sensor wiring was a little more difficult to conceal since it is all on top of the intake. I just ran my loom on the inside of the fuel rail. Not ideal from a hiding standpoint, but looks OK. I may think about how to better hide it later. Maybe a 1/4" loom would work better.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/d19b037b-b7c3-47e8-8f66-618c9b9b01a2-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/d19b037b-b7c3-47e8-8f66-618c9b9b01a2)

Next up is getting the battery and starter wiring situated. I purchased a distribution block and will be running my battery to the block, then to the starter. I will also run the other two red wires to the distribution block. The blue solenoid wire will run directly to the starter. Just have to figure out the best place for the block.

[cv2065]

Driveshaft went in with a bit of a struggle. There really is only one way that shaft will go in, and even then it almost looked like it was too much of an angle but with a little trans lube on the yoke, it eventually made it in. That little piece doesn't look like much, but I swear it weighed the same as a traditional driveshaft.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/b998f6ea-9e6a-48f5-837d-dd785f02bda4-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/b998f6ea-9e6a-48f5-837d-dd785f02bda4)

I had two sets of 12.9 cap screws for the driveshaft. One is 3/4" and the other 1". Was told by FFR, and David Williamson on the forum, that if you have an aluminum flange, then use the longer 1" bolts. Steel flange use the 3/4", as it is a shallower mount. If you use the longer 1" bolts with the steel flange, they almost secure flush, but still bottom out...maybe less than 1/16". I didn't use the 3/4", as I shaved off about a 1/8" off the longer bolts and used those as I wanted the longer thread engagement.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/809e73de-2e9f-47bc-aeec-c5a9a4d6e9a9-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/809e73de-2e9f-47bc-aeec-c5a9a4d6e9a9)

Bolts get tightened up to 70 ft/lbs. These need to be tightened up coming in from the top. If you try to tighten up from the bottom, you cannot get your torque wrench on it as there is not enough clearance, unless you have a really long extension. Blue loctite as prescribed in the instructions.

[cv2065]

Next up was my radiator. This was another one of those projects that seem to linger around for a couple of weeks. My plan was to secure the radiator to the top FFR style, then use the Breeze lower support. All was going great until I got to the bottom support, and my radiator was about 3/4" too high, and the bottom support could not make contact with the radiator.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/294d1133-9bc8-46f9-bc7b-cb74dcea17e9-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/294d1133-9bc8-46f9-bc7b-cb74dcea17e9)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/d0611586-6089-43be-bdb2-b7e6ccc79eaf-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/d0611586-6089-43be-bdb2-b7e6ccc79eaf)

I contacted Mark from Breeze and he said that he runs into this every once in a while, and offered up the Breeze top hinge kit as a solution, as it drops the radiator down anywhere from 3/4" to maybe 1.5". Kit came in a couple of days.

I thought I'd get the maximum drop from the hinge, so I secured to the 3/4" tubes that are welded on to the frame. This unfortunately dropped the radiator too much, so per Breeze instructions, had to lop off the 2-3/4" tube pieces with a cut off wheel, clean them up with a grinder, repaint and secure the radiator right to the frame. Worked like a champ and is at the perfect angle of 58 degrees. I'm using the Replica Parts radiator panel so that requires a few more degrees from the traditional 51.

The Breeze upper hinge kit is nice in design, in that it uses two bolts that go all the way through the two top radiator flanges, as well as the fan, to provide overall support for the weight of the radiator. The aluminum flanges on the FFR radiator are thin and easily damaged, so you have to drill carefully.

One thing I did notice is that the passenger side 3/4" tube that is welded on to the frame is offset to the left. Although radiator is centered, the bolts are offset when you look at them which messes with my OCD. Carl and I were talking that maybe its for Mustang donor builds or another build all together, but who knows?

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/1a62b2fc-f63e-4432-b113-a6b683d2eda8-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/1a62b2fc-f63e-4432-b113-a6b683d2eda8)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/7e12c3bd-ba54-4e2d-b170-4a502ca71321-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/7e12c3bd-ba54-4e2d-b170-4a502ca71321)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/5fa67f3e-1d5f-4dee-97f0-8157b91793f3-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/5fa67f3e-1d5f-4dee-97f0-8157b91793f3)

[cv2065]

I also got around to buying a couple of new fittings for my Aeromotive fuel line setup in the engine bay. Once the engine was installed, it sat a little to close to the regulator, so needed a 90 degree elbow from Russell to accommodate. Worked great and fuel system is 100%.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/c507c5f8-55f8-4c4a-b64a-bfdf95b76b9f-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/c507c5f8-55f8-4c4a-b64a-bfdf95b76b9f)

[cv2065]

Getting the engine side electrical wrapped up and finally installed my battery. Due to a few forum suggestions, I opted for the Yellow top Optima battery. It's a nice piece as it fits the Breeze battery box perfectly. I purchased at Advance Auto and was out the door for about $200 with 20% off and had an old battery core laying around the garage. Saved another $22. The model was simply listed as D51 on their website.

Wiring was uneventful just getting the cables to the right length and crimping the lugs. I didn't use the solder battery fittings from Breeze, I decided to crimp my own. I did find a new favorite tool, the Temco TH0007 lug crimper tool. Man this thing is fun to use and makes solid crimps. Get on Amazon for about $25.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/3a9fbd19-7e57-4e24-8d6b-a5c73403b2da-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/3a9fbd19-7e57-4e24-8d6b-a5c73403b2da)

I also bought 'Military Spec' battery terminals so that I can remove the battery cables without pulling the entire terminal. How about those terminal protectors?? Go big or go home! :)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/5d40fda1-7a23-4cde-8260-4289020c44ad-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/5d40fda1-7a23-4cde-8260-4289020c44ad)


I followed the Breeze directions for the most part in terms of running the cables to the starter and grounds. Negative cable went to the starter mounting bolt and positive to the starter solenoid. I ran a chassis ground jumper from the battery as well as a ground from block to frame. I drilled and tapped all screws to 1/4-28. All came out great with stainless hardware, but next time I would use 1/4-20, as the fine threads are hard to find. I have about 4" or so between my battery and the engine pulley, so had to route close to the battery.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/b47d4fe7-97a0-4b29-8d5e-41920b672c03-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/b47d4fe7-97a0-4b29-8d5e-41920b672c03)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/89db786f-67be-44d4-9581-ca8f6afb5af0-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/89db786f-67be-44d4-9581-ca8f6afb5af0)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/028ccfc0-72e3-4bd2-abd1-511db8dd494e-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/028ccfc0-72e3-4bd2-abd1-511db8dd494e)

Loom and electrical tape works well and keeps it clean, but electrical tape wants to come loose in some areas. I'm using the 3M Super 33+...thought that was good stuff. Anyone have any suggestions on a good substitute that will stay put?

[cv2065]

Final connections to my engine wiring. Taking an inspiration from Papa, I took the loom apart, ran the 3 power leads through the firewall to a distribution box that I'll be fastening to the 2" beam just behind the glove box. Wired up another 4 gauge wire and took that from the starter to the box. The smaller starter wire and brown alternator wire (not hooked up), had a separate loom and ran down to the starter. I also had to run the alternator wire by itself, as it was coming up short when reaching the alternator if kept in the FFR loom. Wiring is NOT my favorite thing to do, but seemed to come out great.

I won't secure it completely until I get my underdash panel back in after first start.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/aa66c15d-7772-43ab-a0b5-18398d6ff1b4-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/aa66c15d-7772-43ab-a0b5-18398d6ff1b4)

[edwardb]

Loom and electrical tape works well and keeps it clean, but electrical tape wants to come loose in some areas. I'm using the 3M Super 33+...thought that was good stuff. Anyone have any suggestions on a good substitute that will stay put?

3M Super 33+ is good stuff. Probably among the best. It sticks well if you don't get crazy stretching it. A little tension is OK, but don't pull too hard or it may eventually loosen itself. I always cut it vs. tearing, which stretches it. Also keep your fingers off the sticky side while using it. It should also be fully stuck down. That bridge stretched across your ground loom by the starter isn't going to hold up. Having said that, many avoid electrical tape as much as possible. Decent stuff like the 3M product can get gummy and messy over time. Even though the Ron Francis harness has a ton of it. I like to use shrink sleeving instead, when possible. Available in every size imaginable, including for the ends of convolute. But takes a little planning.

[cv2065]

3M Super 33+ is good stuff. Probably among the best. It sticks well if you don't get crazy stretching it. A little tension is OK, but don't pull too hard or it may eventually loosen itself. I always cut it vs. tearing, which stretches it. Also keep your fingers off the sticky side while using it. It should also be fully stuck down. That bridge stretched across your ground loom by the starter isn't going to hold up. Having said that, many avoid electrical tape as much as possible. Decent stuff like the 3M product can get gummy and messy over time. Even though the Ron Francis harness has a ton of it. I like to use shrink sleeving instead, when possible. Available in every size imaginable, including for the ends of convolute. But takes a little planning.

Thanks Paul. Never ceases to amaze me the stuff you guys notice! :) I'll be cutting that bridge and addressing it later. I had some cloth electrical tape some time ago and it stuck pretty well. I can't remember the brand, but I'll keep your comments in mind with respect to stretching. That may be the bulk of my issue.

[cv2065]

Power Steering hookup was next on the list. I have to say that the power steering hoses that FFR provides just weren't for me. Seemed like hooking them up was an impossibility, as I could never get the fittings to hook in straight on to the rack without running interference with something else like a cross member, brake line, etc. Not sure why they just can't be direct hook ups to the pump without a lot of curves and angles in the connections themselves. So...called Mark from Breeze and as I've seen in other forums, he had the answer. Here's what he suggested for an order:

70516 Adapter Fittings (1)
21102 6AN Braided Hose (3)
21514 5/8-18 Fitting (1)
21550 90 Degree Fitting (1)
21617 3/8" Hose End (1)
21064 3/8" Hose (3)
21631 180 Degree Fitting (1)

Stainless braided hoses were pretty easy to assemble following Mark's directions. The only modification that I had was that Mark provides an additional washer for one of the rack fittings as the input does not have an o-ring chamfer and one needs to be created. The washer was a little too large to sit correctly as it had some interference with the rack itself, so grinding the sides of the washer down a bit and all is good.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/c16d45b3-f911-42ce-8be8-e53183a41acd-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/c16d45b3-f911-42ce-8be8-e53183a41acd)

The fittings that Mark sends are top notch and everything went together pretty easily. Hopefully there are no leaks! One thing to note is that I had an issue tightening the bottom fitting with the top fitting in place, as you cannot get a wrench on from the front or the bottom. Not a big deal, but thought I'd note it.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/7e6f42c5-533a-475a-8b22-bd7ae575234c-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/7e6f42c5-533a-475a-8b22-bd7ae575234c)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/fc5d2259-224b-47cf-93cf-58744afc251e-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/fc5d2259-224b-47cf-93cf-58744afc251e)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/df293538-c310-4303-8c0d-432f7488f77c-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/df293538-c310-4303-8c0d-432f7488f77c)

Headers and Boig Cool Tubes are out to be ceramic coated black...should be back by middle of next week for final assembly before first start!

[cv2065]

Waiting on those tubes and headers, went ahead and installed my horns. I didn't deviate from the manual in terms of placement. I did exchange out the FFR provided metal screw with a SS pan head bolt installed from the opposite side to avoid any interference with my Replica Parts radiator panel. I also grinded down the corners on the horn brackets to get them flush with the 3/4" bar. Not sure if that mattered when it comes to body fitment, but took 5 mins. I'll re-route the loomed wiring when I get my lighting configured.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/fa4ec88e-57af-4916-8cf3-45a3e941a683-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/fa4ec88e-57af-4916-8cf3-45a3e941a683)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/c17c0bb9-27dd-47ef-be83-7f1db4ac56e0-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/c17c0bb9-27dd-47ef-be83-7f1db4ac56e0)

[cv2065]

One step closer to the first start. I was able to get my Forte mechanical linkage completed. Really a nice smooth setup once configured correctly. I ordered a couple more shaft collars from McMasters. In case anyone needs the item number, its #6435K33.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/691882d8-18fd-4b7f-a45c-f7f545e77583-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/691882d8-18fd-4b7f-a45c-f7f545e77583)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/25fedd38-3ac8-4e28-a550-7204446925f4-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/25fedd38-3ac8-4e28-a550-7204446925f4)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/a54a7517-0778-4af2-af4c-f303d4f360f2-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/a54a7517-0778-4af2-af4c-f303d4f360f2)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/c40bf7f3-a49b-4aa0-9fc9-33ba003e8860-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/c40bf7f3-a49b-4aa0-9fc9-33ba003e8860)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/928715cc-b309-4d66-ab5a-2efd21c46391-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/928715cc-b309-4d66-ab5a-2efd21c46391)

Headers and coolant tubes are back from the ceramic coater. I'll have those installed this weekend. Add fluids, and I should be ready for the first start!

[BadAsp427]

I can't wait to see that first start video of the BluePrint Beast...

[cv2065]

Boig tubes were installed today. The design is great but the finish on mine wasn't the best when I got them. The tubes still had part/serial numbers imprinted on them and the finish did not look like the pictures. Instead of exchanging them, I was getting my headers ceramic coated, and the guy I go to just threw in the Boig tubes for free, so now they are Satin Black, match the Satin Black of the frame tubes and look really nice.

Installation was straight forward. I cut down the front 90 degree rubber as far as I could so that the pressure cap sat roughly even with the frame. The lower tube was a little off on fitment, but overall, a nice purchase and glad I added them.

I left off the front and rear clamps so that I can add fluid here shortly!

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/edf761e3-989a-4891-8e9c-3a3ff1b774bd-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/edf761e3-989a-4891-8e9c-3a3ff1b774bd)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/999e79ea-270a-4d85-800d-58aa1bee9a50-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/999e79ea-270a-4d85-800d-58aa1bee9a50)

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/4075c30b-240d-48b5-9dd9-73581afd818e-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/4075c30b-240d-48b5-9dd9-73581afd818e)

Headers came out great as well. They get installed tomorrow.

https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/be572f5b-e62f-4765-97be-c9b539d9da20-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/be572f5b-e62f-4765-97be-c9b539d9da20)

[Radman73]

Looking good! I'll probably need to get the number of your powder coat guy :)

[cv2065]

Haven't updated in a bit, but lots going on! 2 issues on the front suspension needed to be addressed. As much as I hate doing things over, I think these were unavoidable. One was the Moog UCA ball joint boots sagging, and the other was the control arm tubes that needed to be cut in order to get the correct camber/castor for the power steering.

Cutting the rear tube on the passenger side was not a hard job at all, but as Fixit mentioned, it would have been nice to not have to go back and do things over. I only had to remove two of the three control arm adjustment bolts in order to get at the tube. I used a hack saw with a fine blade and the tube cut pretty easily, just cutting up to the beveled edge (~1/4") off both sides. I also took 1/4" off of both threaded rods as the sleeve will bottom out if you don't. Only challenge there is having to cut the lower threaded rod while it remains on the suspension as you don't want to have to take that apart. Lost some custom red paint on my sleeve, but touched that up before putting it all back together.

Sleeve Cutting:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/90b072dd-289f-41a5-9789-61eb445a71bc-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/90b072dd-289f-41a5-9789-61eb445a71bc)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/8b4e4224-4bb4-47e9-b0ce-a6ab4417cdce-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/8b4e4224-4bb4-47e9-b0ce-a6ab4417cdce)

Threaded Rod Cutting:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/17585e12-fe26-468f-850f-af3fe58d503d-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/17585e12-fe26-468f-850f-af3fe58d503d)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/e0471538-a843-46ce-85f6-6afb71256d55-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/e0471538-a843-46ce-85f6-6afb71256d55)

Finished product:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/d6dfd0f2-ff85-4df3-905f-90f3362b99a4-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/d6dfd0f2-ff85-4df3-905f-90f3362b99a4)

[cv2065]

Second up was the Moog upper ball joint boots. If you upgrade to the Moog upper ball joints, they are great and thread in nicely. However, using the provided Moog boots is bad news as they are too large and end up pushing in on themselves, then open up and get grease everywhere. Look something like this:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/e65c92ce-aa68-4b6b-b0db-ea8b327902c1-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/e65c92ce-aa68-4b6b-b0db-ea8b327902c1)

So, based on edwardb's suggestion, I replaced with Energy Suspension 5.13102G Ball Joint Dust Boots. They are less than $10 on Amazon and look fantastic.

After Install:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/d7933ec1-0edc-4fc1-bf63-4609c3f7adc1-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/d7933ec1-0edc-4fc1-bf63-4609c3f7adc1)

[cv2065]

Really glad to have reached this milestone. Just have to say that Josh and Johnny at Blueprint have been VERY responsive to any questions that I've had along the way...yes, even on weekends. Nice work guys!

So, this isn't 'exactly' my first start. If I said it was then Carl (BadASP) would probably throw me under the bus for that, so keeping it real. :cool: Had a few things to work out with setup, and there is still some fine tuning to do, but overall, very satisfied with how things worked out. Good news is that I only had one leak, and that came out of the radiator hose. Everything else is good to go!

Thanks again for all the help from the forum to this point. Very much appreciated!

https://youtu.be/Xhc-DsA50XY

[cv2065]

Once I knew that there were no leaks from the rear fuel system, time to button up the panels and my rear wiring. Tried to tidy this area up as much as possible. Started off with securing the main rear harness on the 3/4" tube right behind the IRS.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/42e9b6b6-2e5b-480e-b632-0d3ccced40da-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/42e9b6b6-2e5b-480e-b632-0d3ccced40da)

I then tapped for 1/4-20 screws along the rear 3/4" tube for right and rear lighting.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/28ca49dc-517f-48a3-b8f8-bfe6e8643bde-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/28ca49dc-517f-48a3-b8f8-bfe6e8643bde)

As others have done, I routed the license plate wiring through the passenger side panel with grommet so that it pops out right at the trunk hoop. Seems like I'll have to extend these two wires when hooking them up, but not sure until the body is on.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/280c7271-9784-46b9-ad50-7fed2c238fd1-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/280c7271-9784-46b9-ad50-7fed2c238fd1)

Final product before the panel goes on. I used a couple of small pieces of Gorilla tape to keep the sensor and fuel pump wiring straight and secured to the tank. Happy with how it turned out.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/11df00fb-bf19-4527-b0b7-a2aa1dc7849a-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/11df00fb-bf19-4527-b0b7-a2aa1dc7849a)

[cv2065]

I've been planning out my stereo. I know that topic is up for debate, but I've never had a car without one, so the Cobra will get some tunes. I drilled two 1/2" holes on the front right and left sides of the top trunk panel and added grommets for door speaker wiring. I also drilled a 1" hole right in the center of the top trunk panel that will take the amp power and RCA cables through the trans tunnel to the distribution block and BT stereo housed in the glovebox. It will get a grommet as well, it just hasn't arrived yet. Hard to find 1.25" ID grommets locally for some reason.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/1b7f9401-72a8-4adf-b85f-b7060e44bfec-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/1b7f9401-72a8-4adf-b85f-b7060e44bfec)

Once the wiring is in, I can start on my rear cockpit panel.

Both of my access panels are removable, as I added 6-32 rivet nuts. I also added another custom panel that is right over my fuel line connections. Probably not necessary, but the fuel line connections are right behind the 2" tube and hard to get to from the outside/bottom. I thought it might make it easier if I ever need to adjust or remove if I can get a wrench on it from the top as well as the bottom.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/d84f217e-ea42-47bd-b7ec-48cdc0809912-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/d84f217e-ea42-47bd-b7ec-48cdc0809912)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/f8f967eb-224d-44d0-9c08-10fb8a57a8cb-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/f8f967eb-224d-44d0-9c08-10fb8a57a8cb)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/0a808e5c-10a8-4c51-83db-8e15adbb9ce6-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/0a808e5c-10a8-4c51-83db-8e15adbb9ce6)

Just a couple of side notes when I was installing the panels. First one is that the center lower trunk panel has to go in first. Just the rivets on the two triangular side panels causes enough interference where the lower panel can't go in. Instructions say that...but that's what happens when you jump ahead!

Also, when installing the lower trunk panel, I totally forgot about the tank strap that the panel has to fit over. So had to get the jack out, support the tank and swap out the bolts allowing the panel to sit flush. Again, rookie move, but it worked out.

[cv2065]

Looks like my header ceramic coating is flaming off. Bummer! Already contacted the guy to have these redone, but annoying to say the least.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/2424f254-8970-4894-8bce-05c3bc90cb65-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/2424f254-8970-4894-8bce-05c3bc90cb65)

[MSumners]

Just wanted to say thanks for the detailed posts. I’ve followed your thread from the start and have found it very helpful for my own build. I’ll be following the stereo portion specifically as this is something I’ll be detailing shortly.

Mike S

[Boydster]

Nice start! The 427 sounds great!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Looks like my header ceramic coating is flaming off. Bummer! Already contacted the guy to have these redone, but annoying to say the least.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/2424f254-8970-4894-8bce-05c3bc90cb65-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/2424f254-8970-4894-8bce-05c3bc90cb65)

Well that's ugly :( What does he intend to do differently this time?

Jeff

[cv2065]

Well that's ugly :( What does he intend to do differently this time?

Jeff

Good question. I had to call him a couple of times to get these done. Not sure if he was backed up or what, but when I showed up they were just coming out of the oven, so maybe they were rushed during the baking process. I'll be reviewing with him when I drop off this week. Most likely will take my exhaust to another guy that's just down the road from him.

[PeteMeindl]

Really glad to have reached this milestone. Just have to say that Josh and Johnny at Blueprint have been VERY responsive to any questions that I've had along the way...yes, even on weekends. Nice work guys!

So, this isn't 'exactly' my first start. If I said it was then Carl (BadASP) would probably throw me under the bus for that, so keeping it real. :cool: Had a few things to work out with setup, and there is still some fine tuning to do, but overall, very satisfied with how things worked out. Good news is that I only had one leak, and that came out of the radiator hose. Everything else is good to go!

Thanks again for all the help from the forum to this point. Very much appreciated!

https://youtu.be/Xhc-DsA50XY

Awesome, CV! Congratulations!! Really happy for you.

[cv2065]

Haven't updated in a while. We went on vacation to Utah/Colorado. If you've never Canyoneered, just make sure you're in relatively good shape. Thought I was going to have to be choppered out. Well, it wasn't that bad, but I was reminded that I'm not a 19 year old Marine anymore. Anyway, had a blast doing other things as well in Monument Valley and the Moab, like horseback riding, ATV'ing and Zip Lining. Here was our view from our cabin in Monument Valley.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/8e229ce0-b3be-4ea9-8dcb-d648c9e99112-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/8e229ce0-b3be-4ea9-8dcb-d648c9e99112)

Pretty cool place, but was glad to get back to humid Florida.

Anyhow, started back on the car and have gotten quite a bit done. First off, I finished off the dashboard. Had a few switches to add and am pleased how it came out. Nothing fancy, just standard stuff.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/5677dabe-f9c8-4c54-85d4-9ff369653739-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/5677dabe-f9c8-4c54-85d4-9ff369653739)

When wiring the hazard switch, I connected the two pink wires to the middle prongs on the 6 pronged switch, then the blue and green turn signal wires to the bottom two prongs. Had it backwards initially, so I should have tested first, but not a big deal to switch back around. I wanted a red guard for the wiper switch right next to it, but could not find one to fit.

Speaking of the dash, I have really been indecisive as to how I was going to mount it. I have the 3M interlock tape, but in the end, just decided to screw it in. I bought some black chrome button head screws from Albany County Fasteners that were a little pricey, but will look great and match my theme, as I am 99% positive that I'll powder coat all of my exterior chrome the same finish.

Hard part was pulling the dash back far enough without jacking up any wiring and measuring for 5-2"x3/4" stainless angle brackets to rivet to the hoop. I have a local custom metal cutting place that had these cut for me in 10 minutes. This obviously should have been done beforehand as space is limited, but the good news is that I've added plenty of wiring so that the dash can pull back at least 6-8" from the hoop, so if I need to repair anything in the future, easy peasy.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/1b3507f3-5940-4af0-9f0a-56c248982335-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/1b3507f3-5940-4af0-9f0a-56c248982335)

Only issue there was that the brackets on the corners had to be angled, especially on the glovebox side, as there was interference, even with just 3/4" lengths. All brackets are roughly 9.25" apart from center to end of each bracket, except for the last two that had to be moved a little closer.

I'll put a little tape where each bracket is located and will mount the body for placement shortly.

[cv2065]

I also finished up the trunk area. As others have done, I first made some additional upper trunk side panels out of 0.040 aluminum to make the carpeting go on easier. Also makes the rear look very finished. I'm surprised that FFR doesn't include these panels. I didn't have these powder coated, as I was just covering them up right then anyway.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/e6d01497-f1a3-4de6-aabb-752c165e7a5d-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/e6d01497-f1a3-4de6-aabb-752c165e7a5d)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/0f21236c-2839-4c2f-8f65-65a81e3245e1-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/0f21236c-2839-4c2f-8f65-65a81e3245e1)

I decided to insulate the entire trunk area for sound/vibration proofing. I don't really care about the additional weight. Everything is rock solid on the back end.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/f12d88e8-2acd-4f72-8e0b-654ea4611733-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/f12d88e8-2acd-4f72-8e0b-654ea4611733)

Once the trunk was completed, I finally riveted in my last large piece of metal, which is the rear cockpit panel. I had already cut my speaker holes with rivnuts and proceeded to insulate. I did a triple check here to make sure that everything was run and tightened, as not as easy to access once this panel is in place.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/cef309bd-2ed8-4e6f-9ae6-a3eaf1155225-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/cef309bd-2ed8-4e6f-9ae6-a3eaf1155225)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/be30444b-9c5e-447e-9674-3c0ea6810191-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/be30444b-9c5e-447e-9674-3c0ea6810191)

I also fitted the trans tunnel cover. I'll be covering with carpet, so not concerned with the rivet heads showing. The top plate that goes over the hole only fit when cockeyed to the right where it overlayed perfectly on the tunnel hole. The shifter clears through all gears. I'll be securing with 6 black chrome screws and washers (3 on each side). I already tapped for those. I may put some insulation for final install.

I also replaced the two shifter bolts, as they were rusting. Again, not something I could get local as these thread in, so ordered the stainless version from Albany County Fasteners. Cup holders are next.

[Papa]

Looking good! Where in Colorado did you get to on your vacation?

Dave

[cv2065]

In doing the trunk, I had to start my stereo wiring. Based on where the amp and pancake sub will sit, decided to drill a 1.25" hole in the middle of the upper trunk, as well as 2 1/4" holes on both the right and left sides for the speaker wiring. Grommets for every hole. Had to go online for the larger one, as there is nothing of that size around here, even at Ace.

Stereo wiring went as planned. The main power wiring was run through the large trunk hole and down to the trans tunnel. I ran it up the left side and out across the top of the passenger footbox, into the accessory hole to the distribution block. What was nice is that I was able to score flat RCA cables bundled as 6 together off of Amazon. This made it easy to stuff the 4 gauge wires for my sub and amp, as well as the RCA and remote wires all in the same 3/4" plastic tubing, which fit perfectly up under my fuel regulator and wiper motor. I'll be adding another clamp to secure it here shortly.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/58d3080c-6ad9-4f74-8728-e3f125f35129-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/58d3080c-6ad9-4f74-8728-e3f125f35129)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/601c7f0c-0988-4b35-8c52-ac43ca7b1824-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/601c7f0c-0988-4b35-8c52-ac43ca7b1824)

I ran the front door speaker wiring through the left and right trunk grommets, down the 2" beams and out the bottom of the cockpit panel. From there I secured the wiring to the floor seams with metal waterproof tape and then exited out right before the speaker at the bottom of the door. I then snaked it vertically through the 2 3/4" beams exiting to the speaker, which I don't have hooked up yet. I wanted to keep the wiring inside the steel of the car so nothing could possible catch on the body.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/59360904-106e-4555-82e3-4596d1597fbe-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/59360904-106e-4555-82e3-4596d1597fbe)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/39fb56a9-6f5a-4485-a236-3f3c78361073-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/39fb56a9-6f5a-4485-a236-3f3c78361073)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/2ede0523-75d0-4b8c-aa70-9496b18b03bd-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/2ede0523-75d0-4b8c-aa70-9496b18b03bd)

Rear speakers went in for fit and look great.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/877979c6-1a76-4bb2-989a-f86a29d9e29a-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/877979c6-1a76-4bb2-989a-f86a29d9e29a)

[cv2065]

Looking good! Where in Colorado did you get to on your vacation?

Dave

We flew into Salt Lake City...then drove to Glenwood Springs. Great town! From there we went to Durango, Monument Valley, Moab...then back to Salt Lake. 11 days total. Very cool vacation!

[cv2065]

Continued working on my stereo wiring. I'm just connecting it all now for functionality and will clean everything up later once the carpet is in the trunk. I got the idea of the head unit in the glovebox from Edwardb's thread, and although I'm not using the same unit, same principal and it looks great. I fired it up tonight and sounds really good. BT works great!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/133cf64e-b845-4bea-8d89-ecd8c2c099af-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/133cf64e-b845-4bea-8d89-ecd8c2c099af)

The Kenwood amp is really bringing the speakers to life. I can't imagine not being able to hear it, and I haven't even hooked up the pancake sub as of yet. I did have one mishap as the sub power wire accidentally touched the foil sound proofing and zap, my stereo shut off. Thought I had fried something, but checked all of the fuses and they were good. Came back on after I gave it a couple of minutes..Whew!! Lesson learned to keep all bare wires in line of sight and secured.

I'll post more pics as I get more pieces hooked up and in their final position. I plan to screw the amp and sub to a piece of carpeted MDF, so that I only have to secure that to the floor.

I was also able to get my cup holders cut and installed into the trans tunnel cover. I decided not to use the dash support from FFR since I'm screwing the dash to my hoop brackets. The trade off was the cup holders, which I think I'd miss if they weren't there for drinks and lose items.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/246f30b5-61cb-4074-aeed-f0a6de034a21-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/246f30b5-61cb-4074-aeed-f0a6de034a21)

[BadAsp427]

Thump, Thump thump, Thump... Sip,,,, Ahhhhhhh!!!

[cv2065]

Finally got my headers back from the ceramic coaters for the second time. They are a little more dull than the Satin finish they had the first time around. Maybe he used BBQ paint? LOL...Either way, was able to get the body on for the first time while I was waiting. I needed to fit my seats and dash.

Placed the bulb seal on all of the designated spots. Only issue I ran into was the bulb seal that wraps around each trunk side kind of flops over and doesn't sit upright. I read a few other posts around this and some suggested cutting 'V's' in the part that attaches to the panels around the curve, but it didn't work very well. Jeff Kleiner said it is a common thing so I moved on. I'll be replacing the cut one with the body off.

Also, when I put the Thermo Tec down on the areas that get bulb seal a few weeks back, it made the area too thick installing the bulb seal, so had to go back around and trim 1/4" around all of the edges of those areas.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/cca25603-efb5-474b-9090-29a13e80a6e9-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/cca25603-efb5-474b-9090-29a13e80a6e9)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/e8b4ba41-f8ac-49f8-8372-451d96a4747a-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/e8b4ba41-f8ac-49f8-8372-451d96a4747a)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/e1e8d09f-a515-4043-9160-a557205f3c19-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/e1e8d09f-a515-4043-9160-a557205f3c19)

I was reminded in Edwardb's post to place a brace in the middle of the body when lifting. Almost forgot that. Lots of potential flex, so glad that I did. I cut up a lawn and garden trash bag and placed pieces over the bulb seal to allow the body to slide a little for adjustment so it didn't tear up the rubber. Still had a little damage on the trunk bulb seal, but think that was when the body was taken off.

Body went on with really little issue. It sat a little low in the front and back until I placed on the quickjack bolts. Body kind of floats slightly above the engine compartment 3/4" tubes, with virtually all the weight on the firewall, which I believe is correct.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/aa058672-5a4e-48b7-8ff1-cd10b9088b8d-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/aa058672-5a4e-48b7-8ff1-cd10b9088b8d)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/6a46ea4b-d78a-4dd5-810e-908d1d6679f3-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/6a46ea4b-d78a-4dd5-810e-908d1d6679f3)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/e973ac16-255e-41c6-9a8d-899c8f52883e-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/e973ac16-255e-41c6-9a8d-899c8f52883e)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/e7bf9a27-3f04-45af-8df5-794cf6919b1f-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/e7bf9a27-3f04-45af-8df5-794cf6919b1f)

[cv2065]

Per Kleiner and dBats comments, as well as reviewing Shark's build thread, I was able to get the body pushed forward roughly 5/16" past the door latch brackets.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/b40e9f6c-cdfc-44b5-b9c0-1b48dda1e2ed-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/b40e9f6c-cdfc-44b5-b9c0-1b48dda1e2ed)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/fc5fe124-c4fc-4721-aa89-c2ee63bace29-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/fc5fe124-c4fc-4721-aa89-c2ee63bace29)

I had trimmed the front and back roll a little prior to installation. The front was trimmed 1/4" and the rear 1/8". The rear cockpit wall seems to be perfect except for a 2" area that needs a little more evening out. The front also looks good except for about a 4" area that extends above the speedo. I'll have to go back and take a little more off there as its right up against the dash. Trunk has about 1/8" gap as well once the body was pushed up.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/65648cc4-a1bc-4383-afed-88dc06c3820b-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/65648cc4-a1bc-4383-afed-88dc06c3820b)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/bef6502d-d7a5-4add-a046-426389b41417-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/bef6502d-d7a5-4add-a046-426389b41417)

[cv2065]

Once the body was situated, I was able to fit the dash. I had put a few pieces of tape to designate where the brackets were on the back and where I needed to drill. I did learn that when fitting the dash, it only goes so high when you push it up into the body, so there's really no doubt how it fits or where it needs to go. Lots of questions there for me when the body was off on fitment. I thought the steering column would center up a little more in the hole but could be a combination of the new pillow block, RT turn signal or just where the body placed the dash, but the trim ring fits so it works.

I measured for 5 evenly spaced screws across the dash and easily be able to remove if needed. I have about 3/16" below the hoop on the driver's side and 1/16" on the passenger side.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/1c3bcd39-897f-4f1e-a42c-937dafe4c48a-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/1c3bcd39-897f-4f1e-a42c-937dafe4c48a)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/39d86b48-692f-485d-95e9-c7866283e15a-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/39d86b48-692f-485d-95e9-c7866283e15a)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/b9c0de21-123a-496a-98d9-7de739821f6a-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/b9c0de21-123a-496a-98d9-7de739821f6a)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/98c3f267-a02c-49ca-8d39-cf92c1209f2b-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/98c3f267-a02c-49ca-8d39-cf92c1209f2b)

[cv2065]

For seats, I used Breeze's angled seat mounts. These were very easy to install, although I wish that they had come powdercoated, as they were already flash rusting in the box. I would typically have these powder coated myself, but didn't have any other items at this point and wanted to save some time, so I used the Rustoleum oil based spray can. End result was good but not a product that I'd recommend as it took a few coats to cover.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/69110114-bf9a-48f7-8f2a-99d8fda72f95-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/69110114-bf9a-48f7-8f2a-99d8fda72f95)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/379fa53e-7591-46df-9058-45626e493c98-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/379fa53e-7591-46df-9058-45626e493c98)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/c1986c21-f236-404e-848e-132e1973211e-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/c1986c21-f236-404e-848e-132e1973211e)

I think with previous versions of this mount, one had an issue removing or adjusting the seat because you can't access the rear nuts. That was solved with having two plates. One mounts to the floor of the car. The second angled mount bolts to that plate, and then the seat bolts to the angled plate. So pulling the seat is a matter of lifting the seat cushion out and 4 bolts. Great design!

Once installed I tried to center the seats in-between the seat belt brackets, give or take 1/4" or so. I then sat in them, and once satisfied with the seat to pedal angle, I locked it down. I've got about a 1" gap between the edge of the seat and the tip of the door latch bracket.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/956f657c-4b69-4b28-947b-35677971aeb2-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/956f657c-4b69-4b28-947b-35677971aeb2)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/486d4d05-810d-4b1c-af57-f49df43a38e0-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/486d4d05-810d-4b1c-af57-f49df43a38e0)

With the headers back, I've just got to get them installed, re-install the side pipes and get my dash screwed down. Then we are ready for some go kart action.

[Fixit]

Hey... a couple of tips for ya on the Breeze seat mounts/parts.

Learned by experience... if you're sitting sideways (legs hanging out the door) and you shift your overweight fatazz too far forward that 1/8" piece of masonite has no chance - It'll snap off clean with the front tube of the seat frame.
I used the masonite (remains) as a template to cut replacements from 1/8" aluminum (an old road sign actually). Re-used the same screw holes, and rounded the edges over with a file and sanding block.

I also secured the Velcro flap on the seat back (for the bottom cushion) to the seat frame tube with a couple of button head self-drillers.

[cv2065]

Hey... a couple of tips for ya on the Breeze seat mounts/parts.

Learned by experience... if you're sitting sideways (legs hanging out the door) and you shift your overweight fatazz too far forward that 1/8" piece of masonite has no chance - It'll snap off clean with the front tube of the seat frame.
I used the masonite (remains) as a template to cut replacements from 1/8" aluminum (an old road sign actually). Re-used the same screw holes, and rounded the edges over with a file and sanding block.

I also secured the Velcro flap on the seat back (for the bottom cushion) to the seat frame tube with a couple of button head self-drillers.

Thanks for the tips John. I was considering replacing with a couple of pieces of thick plexyglass that I have, but may use some aluminum as you suggested. Even though I painted them, as you say, the masonite won't last.

[cv2065]

First off, want to thank Carl (BADASP) for making a trip to my house this weekend. He helped me tune a bit then ready for the first go kart! Went to dinner Friday night. Cars and Coffee in the AM on Saturday and Go Karting Saturday afternoon. Thanks Carl!

Before Carl arrived, I was able to get the dash fully installed. I thought if I'm going to use screws through the dash, then they will be a part of the decor, not just a fastener. The 10-32 black chrome button heads with black SS finishing washers did the trick. They look great!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/7fac4be0-7008-4516-aba9-60acf15f1ff0-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/7fac4be0-7008-4516-aba9-60acf15f1ff0)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/4d6a9962-dcd8-4fad-9fea-9bc3e3e2aded-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/4d6a9962-dcd8-4fad-9fea-9bc3e3e2aded)

As I mentioned, the headers came back and installed them. After starting the engine a few times I'm convinced that they are indeed ceramic coated and not BBQ paint. They look great as well.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/c5b45c94-1311-4080-91a2-e0fe8d757aaa-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/c5b45c94-1311-4080-91a2-e0fe8d757aaa)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/56f54a47-0246-46d5-8fb2-57a94546671b-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/56f54a47-0246-46d5-8fb2-57a94546671b)

[cv2065]

Moving on to the steering wheel. I have the RT turn signal mod and it went on simple enough. What I didn't realize was with the manual suggested location of the upper steering shaft was way too long for the steering boss and had to be pushed in about 3-4". Luckily, I lubed the shaft when installing initially and it moved pretty easily. Carl's palm was used as a dead blow. Spaced the turn signal housing 1/16" from the steering boss and looks great. Russ Thompson does a great job here. Now just need to wire it all up.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/4d6a9962-dcd8-4fad-9fea-9bc3e3e2aded-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/4d6a9962-dcd8-4fad-9fea-9bc3e3e2aded)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/d1c408f4-d929-49d5-b03f-53f1570a6ad4-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/d1c408f4-d929-49d5-b03f-53f1570a6ad4)

[cv2065]

Whipped out the vacuum gauge and dialed in the electric choke and the 427 is a monster. Thanks again for the help here Carl! Has been a while since the car was off jack stands and forgot how low these cars are. No room for a low profile jack and 2x4 to lift on the 4" cross member, so had to place the tires on 2x4's to get the jack and wood out. Plenty of room for a 1x4..but it does creak a lot..:p

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/ded1ee1a-f47d-4b80-ab52-60c7b157de10-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/ded1ee1a-f47d-4b80-ab52-60c7b157de10)

[cv2065]

So now for the fun stuff....Go Karting! Getting ready to come out of the garage. Engine sounds amazing. Some of the local kids stopped by when they heard the engine. Absolutely nothing has the sound of a push rod engine. Thought I was having an issue going into first..but I was in first, so rookie move in getting used to the new trans.

https://youtu.be/xq-Ptjioxjk

Next up was around the block. Man isn't that a great sounding Hyundai? This circle rarely gets car traffic, but of course, when I'm out I'm getting it from front and behind.

https://youtu.be/dsuN9Ly12jA

Last lap:
https://youtu.be/vQlSUWuelVk

So, not a long maiden voyage (about 1.5 miles), but enough to get a feel for it somewhat. Great job to the videographer Carl. A few takeaways:

1. Need to get some different shoes. Goosing it when you're not planning to goose is not cool.
2. Brakes were a little spongy so need to bleed a little again.
3. Remember to secure the fuel tube before go karting....
4. The mechanical linkage is super sensitive. Might have to look for a stronger throttle return spring.

Other than that, it was awesome. As soon as I center the steering wheel and bleed the front brakes again...more go karting to come! Until then, nice picture of two Cobras at once!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/167e8b13-f217-4b52-8ec7-692709272fca-original.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/167e8b13-f217-4b52-8ec7-692709272fca)

[Papa]

Looks and sounds great! How many Carl's are there? He's everywhere.

[Sigurd]

Looks and sounds good! Good work

[BadAsp427]

Looks and sounds great! How many Carl's are there? He's everywhere.

Yup.... I've been getting around the South East... I just can't stop driving this thing... Just bumped over the 7000 mile mark on this trip to work with Chad on his... Chad has a great build going and it was a pleasure tweaking the carb a little and bringing that 427 to life... The response to the throttle on that BluePrint engine is exceptional.

111068

[cv2065]

How many Carl's are there? He's everywhere.

LOL...I know right! Carl is the man!

[cv2065]

Got my power steering rack centered tonight. I used Karlos' method from a thread back in 2015. Very helpful!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?19175-Steering-Rack-Install-Setup-Procedure

I also centered my steering wheel. This was not easy, as I have my flange bearing on the outside of the footbox as prescribed by the instructions, and there is very little movement to get the lower u-joint out of the steering adapter. Doing it over again, as others have done, I would have probably mounted the flange bearing on the inside of the footbox to get another 3/16" latitude, but its all good. Steering wheel is now centered. Just have to get some string and even out the tie rod on both sides.

On my first go kart, I realized that the front brake lines were rubbing the wheels at full turn. So I bought some 90 degree fittings from Summit. These are Earls #966303ERL and seemed to do the trick.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/ec36c69d-f9bc-42b9-a012-aad9b08210dc-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/ec36c69d-f9bc-42b9-a012-aad9b08210dc)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/763ad90a-cab9-4ada-bc42-37c545bc32a5-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/763ad90a-cab9-4ada-bc42-37c545bc32a5)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/b84643c4-a5a7-4417-b034-89275df71c30-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/b84643c4-a5a7-4417-b034-89275df71c30)

Just have to get these bled again and we're ready for some more go karting!

[BadAsp427]

Yeah, that does look much better...

[cv2065]

Made a final list of odds and ends that I need to get done before getting the body back on. One thing that wasn't anticipated was the stress on the bottom lip of the plastic dash. I have 4 under dash supports that were clicko'd to the 2" beam where shown in the instructions. However, when I moved the dash down to secure to the brackets on the 3/4" tube so that I would have access to the dash screws when the body was on, it put a lot of stress on those brackets because they needed to move down about an inch with the dash. The plastic lip doesn't seem to be that strong, so I reinforced it with two 41" pieces of 1" wide aluminum on top and bottom. Secured with 1" black SS 10-32 bolts, then installed the dash support on top of those instead of to the plastic lip. Maybe a little overkill but this made for a rock solid dash install and once painted black, it installed flush and looks like a part of the dash.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/ec499fee-4c83-4574-9b86-d2aa98b8ed52-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/ec499fee-4c83-4574-9b86-d2aa98b8ed52)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/cecaca1d-58df-49b6-88a1-b9ba9eb358f9-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/cecaca1d-58df-49b6-88a1-b9ba9eb358f9)

Also, finished up my Breeze seat bracket installation. Mark suggests not riveting the bottom seat plate over sound proofing, so outlined the plate and peeled back the Thermo Tec. As long as that stuff has been on, its REALLY difficult to remove. I had to use a hammer and putty knife to get it all pulled back. All good to go and the plates are now secured to the panels and frame.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/bd5ebe38-3a3a-4fd1-9049-5c75c9d9e4c5-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/bd5ebe38-3a3a-4fd1-9049-5c75c9d9e4c5)

I went ahead and stained the leather on my door straps and seat belts. I had some of the black dye from another project left over. I have a blacked out theme, so needed to get this done.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/1e0f949d-6b2f-428d-a16e-886ccf10e400-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/1e0f949d-6b2f-428d-a16e-886ccf10e400)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/f05b2f8a-892c-4504-9994-c00fbb9e150e-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/f05b2f8a-892c-4504-9994-c00fbb9e150e)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/a4d70fb9-e029-4ba7-9f3c-c3400f2fd308-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/a4d70fb9-e029-4ba7-9f3c-c3400f2fd308)

[D02G]

Continued working on my stereo wiring. I'm just connecting it all now for functionality and will clean everything up later once the carpet is in the trunk. I got the idea of the head unit in the glovebox from Edwardb's thread, and although I'm not using the same unit, same principal and it looks great. I fired it up tonight and sounds really good. BT works great!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/133cf64e-b845-4bea-8d89-ecd8c2c099af-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/133cf64e-b845-4bea-8d89-ecd8c2c099af)

The Kenwood amp is really bringing the speakers to life. I can't imagine not being able to hear it, and I haven't even hooked up the pancake sub as of yet. I did have one mishap as the sub power wire accidentally touched the foil sound proofing and zap, my stereo shut off. Thought I had fried something, but checked all of the fuses and they were good. Came back on after I gave it a couple of minutes..Whew!! Lesson learned to keep all bare wires in line of sight and secured.

I'll post more pics as I get more pieces hooked up and in their final position. I plan to screw the amp and sub to a piece of carpeted MDF, so that I only have to secure that to the floor.

I was also able to get my cup holders cut and installed into the trans tunnel cover. I decided not to use the dash support from FFR since I'm screwing the dash to my hoop brackets. The trade off was the cup holders, which I think I'd miss if they weren't there for drinks and lose items.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/246f30b5-61cb-4074-aeed-f0a6de034a21-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/246f30b5-61cb-4074-aeed-f0a6de034a21)

What did you use for cup holders and where did you get them? I'm trying to decide which ones to get...

[cv2065]

What did you use for cup holders and where did you get them? I'm trying to decide which ones to get...

These seem to be pretty popular on the forum and fit perfectly.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00911UX6A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[cv2065]

As I've seen in past threads, I did the door latch modification last night. I understand the need for the carriage bolt as when pulling my first assembly apart, it nearly fell apart by itself.

Installed the SS 5/16-18 carriage bolts (3/4" long), grinding the seat about 1/16" for the washer to fit flush and the head of the carriage bolt. Kleiner and CraigS also recommended removing the spring in a previous past post, so did that as well and the action is nice and smooth. Put back together, but may pull the cover off again later for powder coating.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/a344ed82-489c-4925-b8f9-3388b0564d9b-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/a344ed82-489c-4925-b8f9-3388b0564d9b)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/7cd95a5f-405d-4010-a9a4-5d64905e3f41-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/7cd95a5f-405d-4010-a9a4-5d64905e3f41)

[Jeff Kleiner]

Make sure that the plunger retracts fully. It's pretty common for the tip to still stick out 1/16" or so. If it does just file it off so that it's flush. Also before installing the striker put a chamfer on the hole and the plunger will engage easier.

Jeff

[cv2065]

Make sure that the plunger retracts fully. It's pretty common for the tip to still stick out 1/16" or so. If it does just file it off so that it's flush. Also before installing the striker put a chamfer on the hole and the plunger will engage easier.

Jeff

Thanks for the tips Jeff. I did notice that about the plunger on both sides. I'll file that down.

[cv2065]

Have been getting some odds and ends stuff completed over the past week or so. I wanted to start testing my lights, but needed to do some surgery on the front harness first. I didn't really like the wiring hanging below the radiator, so reconfigured the harness to run behind the top of the radiator to make it visually more pleasing. I'm not sure why RF does not do this out of the box, as the channel on top of the radiator is perfect. Took the better half of a day to get this done, but definitely worth the time. I also liked bringing the fan connector to the top to get it out of the way. I zip tied it to the fan, cut down the blue fan wire, and it lined up nicely. The radiator cover will hide it all, but it looks great.

Down the driver's side:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/6e33ecf8-466f-4ef4-8e92-28cdc0e408cb-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/6e33ecf8-466f-4ef4-8e92-28cdc0e408cb)

Across the top behind the 3/4" radiator support tube:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/e07c64ef-120c-45c9-9843-9a9d79e13e5c-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/e07c64ef-120c-45c9-9843-9a9d79e13e5c)

Down the passenger side:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/42cacf1e-451a-49e9-8999-1bf8a4c2cfcc-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/42cacf1e-451a-49e9-8999-1bf8a4c2cfcc)

Tested the harness and the parking and headlights work great. One caveat was that I did not have my hi beam switch hooked up, so the headlights did not work on first try. BadAsp reminded me that you needed that switch hooked up to complete the circuit, and he was spot on. I did buy some replacement headlights (was inspired by Papa), and got some of these Lucas vintage pieces. Just really like the way that they look.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/f6ce0e2f-4a54-4479-9a76-e4abb6f7b837-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/f6ce0e2f-4a54-4479-9a76-e4abb6f7b837)

[cv2065]

As I've said, I'm going for the complete blacked out look on #9380, which means that I had to go through another large batch of powder coating small trim pieces. I got rid of my last powder coater and am at a new shop. Cool older gentleman from Boston that has been around the PC block a few times and is really fair on pricing as well. Here's what I took to him to make the blacked out 'package':

Headlight Trim Rings (2), Headlight Trim Ring Brackets (2), Shifter Trim Ring (1), Rear Tail Light Trim Rings (4), Turn Signal Trim Rings (2), Gas Cap Assembly (1), Wheel Spinners (4), Wheel Spinner Threaded Inserts (4), Wheel Lug Covers (4), Windshield Trim (2 Pieces), Radiator Cowl (1), Roll Bar (2 Pieces), Grill Mesh Trim Pieces (2), Hood Latches (2), Trunk Latch (1), Roll Bar Trim Rings (3), Side Mirror w/Support (2 Pieces), DW Side Mirror Bracket (1), Seat Belt Trim Rings (4), Quick Jack Rods (4), Shifter Handler (1), License Plate Housing (1), Rear view Mirror (1)

Everything will be an Ink Black Gloss to match the wheels. We went over each piece independently. Nothing threaded will be powder coated. Spinner Threaded inserts will be taped off where only the outer portion is black. $300 for the lot. Not bad at all.

I ran into a couple of caveats when preparing everything. The side bullet mirrors do come apart but the front part that rotates has a plastic piece inside, and would not do well for powder coating. Another issue is the rear license plate bracket. As the cover will come apart, but the rest is riveted and has some sensitive pieces, so will do that one by hand. The last challenge was getting the chrome bezels off of the rear tail lights. The light pretty much as to be completely disassembled and will need to be done before installing weather packs, as I had to pull mine off. Took lots of pictures so I remember where everything goes!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/50f4f3d9-c0e0-41ac-9e08-5049d348c442-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/50f4f3d9-c0e0-41ac-9e08-5049d348c442)

One thing that can't be disassembled unless you break the soldering tab is the grounding on the tail light itself. Powder coater said that he could wrap in some high heat tape and protect it when heating it up. If he's not right, then I'll just re-solder but would make it easier.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/ab22aa94-b74d-431d-bc99-2dc018742fde-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/ab22aa94-b74d-431d-bc99-2dc018742fde)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/9d3e8a51-8ec6-4830-806d-0a735a62c8f2-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/9d3e8a51-8ec6-4830-806d-0a735a62c8f2)

[cv2065]

Also got a chance to cut my mounting board for the stereo and amplifier. 3/4" MDF from Lowes. Easy enough and everything fit fine by cutting 34 x 35 x 15. I made sure that the board could slide out when needed and not get caught up on the roll bar tubes. I still need to carpet the rear trunk area as well as the mounting board.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/88944646-96c8-4ddb-8ede-253a77b8ccc3-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/88944646-96c8-4ddb-8ede-253a77b8ccc3)

[cv2065]

And best of all, had a few go kart trips this weekend. First time was solo and can feel the trans loosening up where all gears run easily. The BP 427 fires up on the first key now that the carb is tuned and sounds like a beast. The lope is fantastic.

My wife came the second time and after the riot act was read from the mother in law, we had a nice short trip and now I'm up to a whopping 4 miles. Neighborhood roads are too short but I did get into 4th when I peeked out onto a main highway for about 1/8 of a mile. Sound from the phone is terrible, but good time. And Daisy Princess is not my screen name....:p

https://www.facebook.com/daisyprincess4/videos/10219661749084431/?t=2

[BadAsp427]

And best of all, had a few go kart trips this weekend. First time was solo and can feel the trans loosening up where all gears run easily. The BP 427 fires up on the first key now that the carb is tuned and sounds like a beast. The lope is fantastic.

My wife came the second time and after the riot act was read from the mother in law, we had a nice short trip and now I'm up to a whopping 4 miles. Neighborhood roads are too short but I did get into 4th when I peeked out onto a main highway for about 1/8 of a mile. Sound from the phone is terrible, but good time. And Daisy Princess is not my screen name....:p

https://www.facebook.com/daisyprincess4/videos/10219661749084431/?t=2

So cant see the video... guessing cause I'm not friends on FB with Daisy Princess

[cv2065]

Couple more things off of the final checklist before the body goes on. First, the Metco Driveshaft Loop was installed. I did not have to install with washers. After reading a couple of posts, I thought this would be necessary, but I have about an easy inch worth of clearance between the top of the loop and the drive shaft. An issue I did have is interference with the e-brake cables. They rub the side of the loop. I'm not too concerned with it at this point.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/038c222d-9595-4b59-9435-087e336256ec-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/038c222d-9595-4b59-9435-087e336256ec)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/8eb8028a-dffc-47eb-9584-718872a0806e-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/8eb8028a-dffc-47eb-9584-718872a0806e)

I have never liked the look of the circular adapter that has to be riveted to the top of the trans tunnel cover. If you are covering with leather it will most undoubtedly come through the fabric. Plus, with the offset nature of the TKO600, the hole does not align perfectly over shifter assembly.

So, enter the FFMetals trans tunnel cover. It's much thicker gauge metal than the FFR version so it doesn't bow when you put your arm on it. I was able to cut my offset hole about 3/4" from the original center position to the passenger side, and it now fits over the shifter perfectly. Also, the FFMetal cover is virtually identical to the FFR cover, so it was easy to retrace my cup holder holes. In fact, I moved them both inboard about 1/8" so that they no longer interfered with some of my tubed wiring going through the trans tunnel.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/9ef6792f-b38a-4bd6-b4b6-e87159582a60-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/9ef6792f-b38a-4bd6-b4b6-e87159582a60)

Finally, I received my honeycomb radiator protector from Speedway. Cut it to size with an Exacto Knife, then spray painted with some Satin Radiator Black Paint from Eastwood and installed.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/7d604cf0-58b8-4f8f-b71a-684208d46b92-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/7d604cf0-58b8-4f8f-b71a-684208d46b92)

[Boydster]

Keep up the good work! I like that radiator honeycomb.

[cv2065]

So took some time off this week to catch up on things. Fortunately, Hurricane Dorian decided to stay off the coast of Florida, so we were not impacted much at all. Unfortunately, she's making her way up the coast to the Carolinas this evening. I hope everyone up there stays safe, have acquired all of your needed supplies and keep the hatches secured, as she looks like a rough storm.

As mentioned, I was able to focus on a few things this week, including some electrical side areas that I didn't yet take care of. Under dash lighting was first up. I selected a waterproof light strip off of Amazon. Very nice quality and comes in just about any color light you want and even has little scissor icons to cut in case you want to shorten it up. I selected Red to match the car. Comes with 3M red backing and adhered very well to the 2" tube. Only thing is that if you pick black, it still comes with white connection wires. Nothing that some spray paint can't remedy, but I got mine here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G628C18/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I couldn't decide how to route the wiring, so I drilled vertical holes into the 2" beam to send them right behind the dash. Very clean install. Hooked up to the courtesy light wiring from the harness and lighting looks great.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/2337dced-3a8c-4358-b1c5-0c1a6621b669-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/2337dced-3a8c-4358-b1c5-0c1a6621b669)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/0c9b5f80-7c83-4069-8f68-b6d4021cacd8-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/0c9b5f80-7c83-4069-8f68-b6d4021cacd8)

One thing to note that I didn't see in the instructions is the grounding wire that goes to the headlight switch, that activates the courtesy lamps when you turn it counter clockwise. The first time I hooked it all up, I was getting zero. Carl (Badasp) helped me out here as the ground wire connects to a stud sticking off of the side of switch itself. Very easy to miss, and hard to get the ground wire attached. Thanks Carl! Here's a pic:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/07ce512b-d5a7-48a3-b043-4456775c0a53-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/07ce512b-d5a7-48a3-b043-4456775c0a53)

[cv2065]

As I continued my electrical, I had a few grounds going to a stud under the dash. Being that it started to look unsightly I installed a ground terminal bus bar right behind the steering wheel. Plenty of room for what I have and to grow. Drilled and tapped the 2" beam with 10-32 SS screws. I got mine here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KVWCY19/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Once hooked up, it was very clean and organized.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/401c2a27-55bc-412d-bac5-40721ae34ef5-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/401c2a27-55bc-412d-bac5-40721ae34ef5)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/c9fc19b0-d606-42c4-98de-8658ab38f2f2-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/c9fc19b0-d606-42c4-98de-8658ab38f2f2)

I installed my USB port as well as dimmer switch to the under dash bracket towards the driver's door. I don't have heater so wired it directly to that connection. Wire is only hot when the car is on, but that's OK. Worked like a champ. Dimmer switch works nicely as well.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/7dc790e2-0e0d-41d8-b5d0-9841b5a43e8e-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/7dc790e2-0e0d-41d8-b5d0-9841b5a43e8e)

[cv2065]

Mike Everson's nose aluminum was next. I had this piece powder coated gloss black and it really looks sharp. On test fitting I had to trim it just a very tiny bit with a flap disc but the instructions state that might be necessary depending on your individual setup. It was very easy to install with the bulb seal. If you want a really clean install at the nose of the car, this is the piece to have. I did call Mike regarding installation, as he recommended installing after the body was on, which makes sense, but I did test fit it and drilled my holes for easy install later.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/4d0a1ec1-4147-4c88-956f-49b062189979-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/4d0a1ec1-4147-4c88-956f-49b062189979)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/eb5d22b3-9b4e-400a-a2fd-f7e8f1b191eb-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/eb5d22b3-9b4e-400a-a2fd-f7e8f1b191eb)

I also made a quick pitstop back to the stereo setup. I carpeted the board that I had made for the amp and sub. Came out fantastic! I also decided to use the wired remotes for both the stereo itself as well as the bass controller. I should have made this decision before I wired everything up as I had to spend an additional couple of hours rewiring, but all came out great.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/2ecb673c-d312-4def-ab6c-f51a49fc645a-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/2ecb673c-d312-4def-ab6c-f51a49fc645a)

Here's the wired remote that will go into the tunnel cover:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/6f5efe4c-d4b3-458b-84cd-92b8461a1acb-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/6f5efe4c-d4b3-458b-84cd-92b8461a1acb)

[cv2065]

Finally got back everything from my new powdercoater. Nice to do business with someone that actually has a passion for what they do and a personality to match. If anyone needs a PC guy in Central Florida, this is your new friend. Anyhow, everything came back stellar except for three things, which two I already knew in advance. One was the hood and trunk handles. Apparently these have some plastic parts in them and as for powder coating and a heated oven...No Bueno. So, I'll be using some epoxy primer and paint for those pieces. Have some 2K stuff coming from Eastwood.

Second was the windshield frame. The inside channel sides of the bottom bracket had been powder coated and I believe was causing an alignment issue on reassembly. I also ordered a new gasket as the original had broken at one of the corners.

As for the third issue, it was in regard to the tail light bezels. You really have to be careful taking this stuff apart, as its not the highest of quality. I had two cracked reflector screw bulkheads that I had to repair, a bulb receptacle spring that would not retract and then there was the grounding wire. Unfortunately, the ground wire for these 4 tail lights is integrated into a cam at the bottom of the light housing. This makes it impossible to powder coat without destroying the ground wiring..at least according to my PC guy, and he tried a few things (high temp tape, etc.). There is also a tab that sticks out from the grounding cam. If you break that off, it makes for a much longer repair. Looks like this:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/c9e01320-d830-470e-b871-00ef53d71cfe-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/c9e01320-d830-470e-b871-00ef53d71cfe)

Good news is that the bezels look fantastic in gloss black once I got them all repaired, back together and tested. 9380's blacked out look is coming around!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/6abb9ef9-25fe-4307-b32d-f47a60b254dd-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/6abb9ef9-25fe-4307-b32d-f47a60b254dd)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/715061e6-2da3-4daa-bc7f-4f0fca5258ae-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/715061e6-2da3-4daa-bc7f-4f0fca5258ae)

One thing about the turn signal bezels. They are a press fit and I'm not sure that they were meant to come off more than a time or two. Mine are already loose and I'm confident that they would fall of in no time if driving around. Unless anyone has a better solution, I had planned to put some silicone in the contact areas to keep it from coming loose.

[cv2065]

Last thing I've to get done from a third party is my trans cover. I'm going to drop it off tomorrow or Friday, so test fitted the boot, trim ring, stereo remote and cup holders again as I bought the FFMetals heavy duty cover with thicker metal. Definitely worth the upgrade! Also put the trans through all gears to make sure I'm not interfering with anything. As an added bonus, I can turn the volume up or down with my pinky finger when cruising in third!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/fb780262-1fc8-4349-ad79-02f695d3ca5b-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/fb780262-1fc8-4349-ad79-02f695d3ca5b)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/b787602a-1ade-4d3c-b33e-06f17aec8062-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/b787602a-1ade-4d3c-b33e-06f17aec8062)


Plan is to duplicate the leather from the stick shift boot on the trans cover (very close looking to the dash) and have red stitching to match the boot stripes. I'll keep everything in place with a couple of strips of industrial velcro. I had originally planned to use screws but the velcro should be seamless and just as effective.

I'm currently carpeting the trunk and will start on the louvers and trimming the body a little more in the next day or so. Plan is to have the body just about ready to go on for a final time by the end of the weekend.

[BadAsp427]

Man your work is looking really nice... Great job Chad...

[cv2065]

Spent the weekend again focusing on a couple odds and ends. I needed to get some of my patch panels in, so did the one on the driver's side footbox as well as fabricating one for the end of the passenger side firewall. I have 1" wire tubing going through there and it was just kind of hanging as the hole is too large. I cut a piece with a semi-circle and then padded it with some trimming lace that I had laying around.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/238540ef-0dc1-4ecc-9b63-1176694b5a17-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/238540ef-0dc1-4ecc-9b63-1176694b5a17)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/6e36e10f-fce3-4456-90f2-a658fdee2681-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/6e36e10f-fce3-4456-90f2-a658fdee2681)

Also spent the bulk of the weekend finally getting to some carpeting. I needed to complete the trunk carpet so that I could complete my sound system hook up and wiring. Lots of additional work and time goes into a sound system, even though everything is easily accessible. I'm sure it will be worth it!

Trunk carpeting took much longer than I expected. I split the job into two sections (splitting both decks) and did the same for the sides. I bought some kraft paper from Lowes. They have large rolls that are 3' x 100' for $12, and its heavy duty. Made patterns out of that and then cut the carpet that I had purchased from FFR, which matches the cockpit carpeting. For the upper deck, I used the Tec indoor/outdoor trowel on style from Lowes. With all of the wiring that I had going on for the stereo, amp, sub, speakers, etc. in that section, I needed the extra working time to run the wires through the carpet and then place correctly. Worked as expected as there is PLENTY of time to move things around to get just right and it sticks great to the Thermo Tec. The only thing with this stuff is that it does have a 72 hour total cure time. I was able to remove any weight on the carpet to hold it down within 48 hours. Stuff dries great, but takes some time.

For the lower deck and sides, I used the 3M Super Trim Adhesive (#08090). This stuff is a nice medium between the 3M 77, which tacks up immediately with no moving time, and the Lowes stuff that takes too long. Although you don't have a tremendous time to move things around (maybe 30-60 seconds), its nice to have a little room there. Another oddity is that it sprays out like small spider webs, so have to clean any over spray up immediately. All in all, it came out great.

I was also able to get the amp/sub board that I had made installed with all wiring. I wanted all controls for both facing to the rear, so the wiring isn't as clean as I would like, but I think it looks pretty good.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/cd004799-8911-46f3-b4d6-eee2eeb7f5c7-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/cd004799-8911-46f3-b4d6-eee2eeb7f5c7)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/db8db039-7cf1-495b-bcd6-e424fdff8cd0-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/db8db039-7cf1-495b-bcd6-e424fdff8cd0)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/f08c75dc-7e29-492d-84fb-d723089867da-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/f08c75dc-7e29-492d-84fb-d723089867da)

Also ran my sub controller. I mounted it with 3M extreme duty tape and placed right in front of the inertia switch.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/3b494cfd-0b58-4372-a956-9f092907f7a9-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/3b494cfd-0b58-4372-a956-9f092907f7a9)

Getting closer to final body install. This week I hope to get the louvers installed, undercoating applied to the body, cockpit carpet started and get my tail lights back together and tested.

[BadAsp427]

Looks good chad. Question, on the Amp Deck, it looks like you don't have the carpet on the corner closed up. Is that something your still working on? Also, you said that you had bought some kind of carpet edging. would that look good on the two cover plates?

Oh, so you did not get the drop trunk option... :-0

Carl

[cv2065]

Looks good chad. Question, on the Amp Deck, it looks like you don't have the carpet on the corner closed up. Is that something your still working on? Also, you said that you had bought some kind of carpet edging. would that look good on the two cover plates?

Oh, so you did not get the drop trunk option... :-0

Carl

Good eye on the amp deck. Some of the carpet lifted on the bend when I installed it. That’s the 3M 77....I’ll hit it with the 3M Trim Adhesive that I found to be a better adhesive and it won’t be coming off again.

The carpet on the access pieces is folded over, so can’t trim them out. I could have used the amp deck carpet as it’s thinner, but wanted it to match the floor.

As far as the drop trunk, when I get done and we cruise, you can carry my stuff...:D

[cv2065]

Wow...Lots going on since I last posted. I'm still focused on detailed items to get the body on for the final time. I addressed a few areas on the body that were touching the last time it was on. A few minutes with a flap wheel and I took another 1/8" off of a 5" section close to the Speedo area, then a 1/16" trim on a 3" spot on the rear wall to even it out. Looks great!

I also got a chance to fit the louvers. This part was a lot of fun and very satisfying, at least in the beginning. I had originally thought that I would just clean the holes up, but then got a wild hair and thought I'd go for it.

Getting a few ideas from Paul's thread, I used the HSRF with the round stud fasteners from McMaster Carr. I had already assembled the louvers with the aluminum brackets and had them powder coated black. Really nice. Mixing up the HSRF was easy after a couple of videos, and I got a nice greenish/aqua color. I prefitted the louvers on the backside of the hole and followed Badasp's lead by leveling the louver off to the hole and marking where the fasteners contacted the body. I used nuts on the backside of the louver to stand it off from the HSRF while mounting. Decided on placement, put HSRF mixture on each stud, and mounted. The HSRF sets up so fast in the Florida heat, so I literally stood there for 5 minutes then secured with a paint stick and zip tie. I'm used to smelling solvents and paint at work, but this HSRF is potent stuff, so have good ventilation.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/e6cf9b4f-6a93-41a3-bc0c-e574a3bb89ee-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/e6cf9b4f-6a93-41a3-bc0c-e574a3bb89ee)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/f21e9ef7-5580-4252-9a84-bc12dbe4f1dc-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/f21e9ef7-5580-4252-9a84-bc12dbe4f1dc)

Once these were secured, I pulled the louver off and used a flap wheel to clean up and smooth out the HSRF. So now the fun part began. I started by mounting the louver again, and going to the outside and measuring 1.5" between each louver, then transferred that measurement on the body with a pen as I've seen in other threads. As a mistake on my part this is where one of the issues began. I then used a Dremel with drum sander for the larger areas and then 80 grit sandpaper by hand for finishing.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/b623d87a-e210-43e7-aba8-e040f07ef43b-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/b623d87a-e210-43e7-aba8-e040f07ef43b)

I started with the driver's side and I think aside from being a little oversized in one corner by about 1/32", I thought it came out great. Now of course, I'm no expert, so be gentle.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/39725a69-b266-430d-8bc5-92c9fbc85c93-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/39725a69-b266-430d-8bc5-92c9fbc85c93)

It was the passenger side that got a little fudged up as the hole itself was 3/16" off kilter right from FFR. I didn't realize that until I had already cut the hole to match the louver, which was aligned with the hole. In hindsight, a level would have identified it off the bat, so lesson learned...measure everything! So the end result was a hole that's a little oversized and crooked by 3/16", so not much room to adjust. I thought I had taken a picture of it, but can't find it, so I'll add later.

Jeff Kleiner will be doing my body work/painting, so reached out to him and he said "I've had to fix worse". So, I'll leave it up to his mastery to correct my mistake and reshape the holes. BUT, I will say...I had fun doing it!!

[cv2065]

With the help of a couple of family members, I turtled the body and started on the bed liner. I used the Herculiner as it was on sale at Lowes, and it worked well. As others have said, this stuff gets on everything and Xylene is really the only thing that will remove it. You'll need to shelf the paint sticks to stir and get a paint paddle for your drill. I got one at Ace Hardware for $5. Pretty thick stuff.

I taped out a couple of inches from the wheel wells as Jeff has requested in other threads, as well as the exhaust pipe cutout in the event that I need to adjust those. Did the same for the louver holes since they have to be adjusted as well. All in all, very uneventful, but arduous, especially when cutting in with a brush. The rollers that came with the Herculiner kit are good enough, but have a cheap screw to keep the roller frame from flopping around that doesn't really work.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/7baf691c-2203-4184-8ef3-0bacf5b21e9e-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/7baf691c-2203-4184-8ef3-0bacf5b21e9e)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/33fba52f-3b6b-4b82-8664-26fb2fa0b87d-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/33fba52f-3b6b-4b82-8664-26fb2fa0b87d)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/8dc254a3-bc27-4b74-9fe3-ce7ae9c7ffe5-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/8dc254a3-bc27-4b74-9fe3-ce7ae9c7ffe5)

Two full coats with both roller and brush, then hit the wheel wells one more time. Took an hour of prep (blowing out and wiping down with Xylene) couple of hours to apply, not counting 1.5 hours of dry time in-between coats. I actually taped off much more than what you see in the first picture to ensure none of the bedliner bled over to the outside. The coating took to the raw fiberglass very well...no need for sanding. All in all, an uneventful project that came out great. I have about a pint of product left over.

[cv2065]

Back to some carpeting. I think I mentioned it before, but I'm using the 3M Trim Adhesive that is pretty amazing. Allows for 'some' adjustment if you need it. I'm really happy with the panel cutouts from FFR. Not a lot of trimming needed at all.

Following another tip from Jeff, I spray painted all of my seams with black spray paint in the event something didn't align right. I don't want to be seeing any shiny foil sticking through.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/e314245c-222e-4acc-88bc-bc070fac19d9-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/e314245c-222e-4acc-88bc-bc070fac19d9)

I'm pretty amazed at how accurate these carpet pieces are cut. Really not much trimming, if any, needed at all. I was able to get the rear cockpit panels completed. The two side pieces I put in at one time, but the larger cockpit piece I sprayed half then the other half. This thing lined up perfectly, right down to the slits cut for the seat belts! Put the speakers back in and very happy with the outcome.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/ba529223-2900-4ad4-a93c-c7cf7be9d185-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/ba529223-2900-4ad4-a93c-c7cf7be9d185)

I fitted my console side pieces and am awaiting to get my console cover back from the upholsters to complete. Not sure what's up with my selection of 3rd party outfits, but my upholstery guy didn't cover my panel correctly, as he stretched the material all the way over the rear duck tail of the panel, leaving a 2" void underneath. He's fixing it now, so we'll see.

I want to put some heel pads in both the carpet and floor mats. I thought about sewing these in myself, but a local furniture upholster said he can do it for just a couple of bucks, so I'll take over this week. In the interim, my Cobra floor mats just came in. ********** just got a new batch in if you are looking for them. I'll use them just for events. I plan to trace these mats onto the carpet I have left from the trunk and make some everyday mats.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/903e0758-e888-4ca7-9b52-2e99e82197a0-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/903e0758-e888-4ca7-9b52-2e99e82197a0)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/43f3262d-2c94-4ba0-9ee7-521eef859ee8-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/43f3262d-2c94-4ba0-9ee7-521eef859ee8)

[cv2065]

I've always liked the seatbelts that WarEagleScott had in his build from Cipher, so I ordered some. You can get them at a better discount on ebay from a couple of dealers vs. from the manufacturer site. Very nice belts and also come with a bolt for each securing location for ease of installation. As with all of these belts, including Simpson, fading seems to be a common problem so I bought some UV spray online for fabric. I'll treat the belts before install. We'll see if it works or not.

I drilled the submarine belt hole right behind where the floor mat ends, which is a couple of inches under the seat through the steel panel of the frame.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/3c79271c-2610-4c9f-94c3-4f847e7901c2-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/3c79271c-2610-4c9f-94c3-4f847e7901c2)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/cab95569-47c1-40ec-b3a4-0d9fd6c86584-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/cab95569-47c1-40ec-b3a4-0d9fd6c86584)

Next up is to get the body back on the buck, fit the headlights and tail lights, wrap up the carpeting and get the body on for the final time.

[cv2065]

It's been a while since an update, but I've been getting some things done!

I wasn't really happy with the honeycomb radiator protector. Yeah, I know its not really seen unless you have your head stuck up the front of the car, but it was a little frayed on the edges from cutting (my fault) and when I spray painted it, there was an uneven color to it, so was looking for an alternative. So what did I do? I let Shark spend some of my money for me after looking at his build thread. The gloss black honeycomb car grill that he used was looking sweet, so had to have it. A little expensive, but I might be able to build some mesh guards out of what is left. Anyway, looks like this after install:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/824bbd49-04d9-4a39-8b10-be85147534fc-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/824bbd49-04d9-4a39-8b10-be85147534fc)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/f82fb3a4-b422-4f3a-be02-a6e4b9cdbfe9-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/f82fb3a4-b422-4f3a-be02-a6e4b9cdbfe9)

I used some 1/2" nylon spacers at the top drilled into the 3/4" tube. This gets the screen flush with the raised lip on both sides of the radiator. I have Everson's Roadster Radiator Panel, so it should hold the mesh down at the bottom once installed, so I've just let it hang for now.

Got my completed center console back from the upholsterers. The guy went down the wrong path initially, but I think he made it right in the end. The console cover has the french stitched materials on the side with red stitching. The red is subtle enough so that you know its there and should lightly compliment the other red in the cockpit. I cut out the holes for the cup holders, stereo remote and stick shift.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/b1e55c46-bdde-440a-a246-afa3aa6ba695-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/b1e55c46-bdde-440a-a246-afa3aa6ba695)


https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/42493ad4-c9b1-410b-8f64-1bfa8669f01e-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/42493ad4-c9b1-410b-8f64-1bfa8669f01e)

I used rubber rings to keep the cup holders in place from the bottom. No flying cup holders for this kid!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/c310/cv2065/0/05e75ec3-18ee-4e1d-b23d-994729bb1e40-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/cv2065/p/05e75ec3-18ee-4e1d-b23d-994729bb1e40)